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Secrets of the cosmetic industry revealed

THE AROMANTIC GUIDE


to making your own natural skin, hair and
body care products

4th Edition
Chapter Extract eB9:
MAKING 2-IN-1 SHAMPOO &
CONDITIONERS, LIQUID SOAPS
AND SHOWER GELS

natural skin care

17 Tytler Street, Forres, Moray, IV36 1EL, Scotland


Tel: +44 (0)1309 696900 Fax: +44 (0)1309 696911
Email: info@aromantic.co.uk
Web: www.aromantic.co.uk
Copyright 2009, Aromantic

KOLBJRN BORSETH
65

Making 2-in-1
Shampoo & Conditioners,
Liquid Soaps and Shower Gels

Ingredients commonly used in Other ingredients such as Essential Oils,


Shampoos, Liquid Soaps & Shower Herbal Infusions, Botanical CO2 Extracts,
Gels Vitamins & Conditioners have a direct
effect on the skin and hair.
Its simple to make your own Shampoos,
Liquid Soaps & Shower Gels with our
mild and mostly natural ingredients: Base Recipes for 2-in1
Detergents (Alpha, Beta & Sugar)
Shampoo & Conditioners,
these are the most important ingredients, Liquid Soaps and Shower
as they release the surface tension,
loosening oil and dirt. They are mild
Gels
and kind to the skin and have a gentle
cleansing effect. The Recipes shown in Table 11 make 1 litre.

Fat Restoring Agent (Omega) Method for Base 2-in-1 Shampoo &
Conditioner Recipes
redresses the Detergents drying-out
effect, replacing necessary fats to the hair
1) Measure up the Alpha and Sugar or
& scalp.
Beta (Detergents) in a jug and then pour
pH Regulating ingredient (Lactic Acid) into a big heat-resistant bowl. Scrape out
as much of the Detergent as possible as it
adjusts the pH to match the natural pH
is very thick.
of the skin to around 5.5-6.
2) Measure up the boiling Water (or
Gelling Agent (Guar Gum) the boiling Herbal Infusion or Herbal
gives the correct consistency. Guar Gum Decoction) and pour it into the Alpha,
also acts here as an effective Conditioner. Sugar or Beta mixture. Stir it together
until it is dissolved.
Preservatives
3) Measure up the Omega and the Guar
prevent bacteria, moulds and fungi from Gum, and mix well together in a smaller
developing in the product. bowl - make sure that there is no Guar
Gum powder left around the edges of the
bowl. Not doing so may result in lumps
in the products.
66

Table 11: Base Recipes (all recipes make approximately 1 litre)

Sensitive
Dry Hair Oily Hair
Shower Liquid Scalp/
2-in1 2-in1
Shampoo & Shampoo & Baby 2-in-1
Gel Soap
Conditioner Conditioner Shampoo &
Conditioner
Alpha 200ml 300ml 200ml 250ml 160ml
Beta 100ml 70ml
Sugar 100ml 50ml
Omega 30ml/g 30ml/g 30ml/g 10ml/g 30ml/g
Guar Gum 5g 5g 5g
Boiling
655ml 650ml 655ml 675ml 725ml
Water
Sea Salt 5g
Preservative see Table 2
Essential 60-80 60-80 60-80 60-80 40-50
Oils drops drops drops drops drops

4) Little by little, pour the Detergent and Method for making Base Shower Gel
water mixture from the big bowl into the and Liquid Soap Recipes
Omega/Guar Gum blend in the smaller
bowl, while stirring continuously. Fill 1) Measure up the boiling Water (or
up the smaller bowl and then pour the the boiling Herbal Infusion, Herbal
contents of it all back into the bigger Decoction) and pour it into a big bowl.
bowl. Stir well together.
2) Measure the Sea Salt (only relevant to
5) Place the big bowl in a sink with cold Liquid Soap Recipes) and dissolve it into
water, stirring the mixture occasionally. the boiling water in the big bowl.
6) When the mixture has cooled to 3) Measure up the Alpha or Beta
35C-25C, blend in the Essential Oils, (Detergents) in a jug and then pour into
Preservative or, if using, other Active the big bowl containing the salt and
Ingredients. If the Shampoo is too thin, boiling water.
stir in Sea Salt little by little until you get
4) Stir the mixture thoroughly until it
the desired consistency.
thickens.
7) Bottle and label while mixture is still
5) Place the big bowl in a sink with cold
lukewarm.
water, stirring the mixture occasionally.
67

6) When the mixture has cooled to liquid at 45-50C. You can even mix this
35C-25C, blend in the Essential Oils, together with an electric stick blender as
Omega Fat Restoring Agent, Preservative there are no detergents at this stage. Leave
or, if using, other Active Ingredients. If the Guar Gum/Omega/Liquid mixture
the product is too thin, stir in more Sea to swell up to 5-6 hours. Then stir in the
Salt little by little until you get the desired detergents and other active raw materials,
consistency. This works for Shower Gels preservatives, essential oils, etc and bottle.
also. There is no need to reheat the GuarGum/
Omega/Liquid mixture before stirring in
7) Bottle and label while mixture is still
the detergents, etc.
lukewarm.
You can add Colours to your Shampoos.
Shampoo, Shower Gel and Liquid The best option from what we stock are
Soap Recipe Variations the Colours for Water-Based Products
(WB). Pearlescent Colours (PC) will fall
Add value to your Shampoos, Shower to the bottom of a bottle because of the
Gels and Liquid Soaps by customising Shampoo or Liquid Soaps low viscosity.
the Base Recipe to suit different hair
types and conditions. Choose effective The shelf life of the products made
raw materials, such as Herbal Infusions from these Recipes is 2-3 years.
and Decoctions, Essential Oils, Vitamins, Using Infusions in your Recipe
Clays, Moisturisers and other Active if using a Herbal Infusion instead of
Ingredients from Table 12 over. NB Dont Boiling Water make it as follows: allow
use all of the ingredients for a certain 2-3g Dried Herbs per 100ml water; pour
condition in the same product select a boiling water over the herbs; allow to
maximum of three from each category. stand for 10-20 minutes; strain and use
according to the Method.
Tips for making Shampoos, Shower
Gels and Liquid Soaps Using Decoctions in your Recipe - when
using Horsetail, or the tougher parts
Never use a whisk when using of a plant like the roots, seeds or the
Detergents in a Recipe because it will bark, make a Decoction rather than an
create a lot of foam and make the Infusion. Making a Decoction involves
mixture difficult to work with. boiling the herbs. Put around 2-3g or
more of the herb parts into 100ml of
If you have any lumps in your mixture, water and cover the pot. Bring the mixture
use a strainer to get rid of them. to a boil and simmer for about twenty
Shampoos and Liquid Soaps thicken up minutes. Steep and strain the mixture and
gradually until they reach normal room use according to the Method.
temperature (20C in Northern Europe). If using a Herbal Infusion or Herbal
If you feel that your Shampoo, Shower Gel Decoction instead of Boiling Water,
or Liquid Soap is too runny, add Fine Sea remember to increase the amount of
Salt little by little and stir until it thickens to the Preservative and reduce the Water
a con-sistency that youre happy with. volume by the same amount.
One way to solve avoiding separation in For more information about using Herbs in
Shampoos is to stir together the Guar Gum Shampoos, see The Aromantic Guide to the use
with the Omega, then add all of the water/ of Herbs in Skin, Hair & Health Care Products.
68

Table 12: Different Raw Materials for different Hair and Skin Types and problems

Hair and Skin Herbal Infusion Essential Oils Active


Type or problem or Decoction Ingredients

Normal Hair Chamomile, Lime Lavender, Geranium, D-Panthenol, Honey


Blossom Ylang Ylang, Moisturiser
Rosemary
Dry Hair/Skin Nettle, Willow Bark, Lavender, Rosemary, Jojoba Oil, D-
Marigold, Carrageen Sandalwood, Panthenol, Green
Rosewood, Clay, NFF, Kaolin,
Geranium, Ylang Borage Oil,
Ylang Phytokeratin, Honey
Moisturiser
Oily Hair/Skin Nettle, Yarrow, Lavender, Citrus, D-Panthenol, Green
Soapwort Root, Rosemary, Cypress, Clay, NFF, Kaolin,
Sage, Horsetail Ylang Ylang, Honey-Moisturiser
Geranium
Lifeless, Sensitive Horsetail, Coltsfoot, Chamomile, Thyme D-Panthenol, Sea
Hair/Sensitive Skin Thyme, Nettles, Silk, Vitamin E Oil,
Marigold Phytokeratin, Honey
Moisturiser
Damaged Hair Carrageen, Chamomile, Aloe Vera, Vitamin
Horsetail, Sandalwood, E Oil, Phytokeratin,
Chamomile, Patchouli, Benzoin, Lecithin, Jojoba Oil,
Marigold Myrrh, Lavender D-Panthenol, Honey
Moisturiser
Dandruff Nettle, Willow Bark, Cedarwood, Jojoba Oil, Vitamin E
Marigold, Carageen, Rosemary, Lemon, Oil, Honey-
Rosemary Lemongrass, Tea Moisturiser
Tree
Hair Loss Nettle, Yarrow, Rosemary, D-Panthenol, Bio-
Soapwort Root, Ginger, Lavender, energiser, Vitamin
Sage, Horsetail, Cedarwood, Ylang E Oil, Vitamin A
Birch, Rosemary Ylang, Grapefruit Palmitate, Honey-
Moisturiser
Irritation of Scalp/ Marigold, Yarrow, Ylang Ylang, Tea D-Panthenol,
Skin Carageen, Wild Tree, Lavender, Vitamin E Oil,
Pansy, Witch Hazel, Chamomile, Vitamin A Palmitate,
Ladys Mantle, Sandalwood, Aloe Vera,
Chamomile, Peppermint Honey-Moisturiser,
Coltsfoot, Aloe Cosmetic Prebiotic,
Vera, Horsetail Comfrey Glycerol
Extract
The following are pages which are
referred to in the preceding text.
9

About Double Boilers/Bain- supermarkets and never tap water,


except for shampoos/liquid soaps as the
maries detergent helps to preserve the products
as well. Here it is always a good idea to
When we refer to a double boiler, or a boil the water for at least 10 minutes
bain-marie, we are referring to a cooking beforehand.
vessel consisting of two nested pans,
designed to allow slow, even cooking Other challenges
or heating of ingredients in the upper
pan, without scorching or denaturing, by Other challenges to the preservative
the action of water boiling in the lower effect in products the German producers
pan. It is very important that the water of Preservative 12 have told us about
in the lower half of the double boiler is is when you use food products in your
actually boiling this will ensure that cosmetics e.g. ground almonds in an
the ingredients in the upper pan or bowl exfoliating cream, etc.
will melt successfully. You can improvise
Too many Ingredients can spoil the
a double boiler, if you dont already have
Preservative Effect
one with two saucepans or a saucepan
at the bottom and an ovenproof or
The more active ingredients one has in
stainless steel bowl at the top. It is not
a product, the more challenging it is to
essential to buy specialist equipment if
preserve it. Having said that, the Anti-
you are making products for your own
Wrinkle Cream we make on Courses
pleasure.
has a maximum amount of actives in
it and we have used a dosage of 0.6%
Preservatives Preservative 12 without any problems.

Taking responsibility
Weve expanded this section on
Preservatives to help you use them in At the end of the day, you, as a producer,
your products more effectively. We also need to take responsibility for how much
have a handy table on what dosages to preservative you choose to put into your
use for the different Preservatives and products. I would recommend doing
whether you are using herbs in your basic stability testing for anyone selling
products or not. products to the general public and so
Using the Right Kind of Water that they get an idea of their shelf life.
The basic standard industry method is
to put into a glass jar at 45C in an oven
What weve seen from feedback from
for 3 months, check it every 2 weeks,
two of our customers whose creams
note their observations including colour,
went off using Preservative 12 is that
smell, texture and skin feel.
they used normal tap water, which is an
unnecessary challenge to the product. If it survives 3 months with no changes
Other customers have used osmosis then it is deemed to be probably stable
water, and that too can be a challenge. for 12 months at room temperature.
More elaborate industry methods involve
I have always recommended using
putting the product through temperature
reputable bottled spring water from
cycles of cooling and heating.
10

The minimum that you should do is to products is to weigh them on a very good
put samples in clear glass jars on sunny scale that weighs down to 0.1 grams. If
window sills and test them as above. The you still decide to continue using drops
longer you have seen it stay stable, the to measure our Preservatives, we now
longer the shelf life you can write on the recommend using different quantities
label. depending on which of our Preservatives
you are using in your products. In
At least make sure it is stable for 1
our recipes that you may have from
month in this way before you start
old Newsletters, our books and recipe
selling to the general public. If possible,
brochures, youll often find that we dont
you should also store and observe
say which preservative to use, we simply
samples in the airing cupboard. But
say x number of drops of Preservative
ideally, it would be good to invest in a
in the recipe. As I mentioned before,
45C oven.
you need to decide how much of a
The best weigh to measure Preservative you will put into your own
Preservatives! products, but shown in Table 2 are
my new recommendations. For more
The best method for measuring the information on each of the preservatives
Preservatives when adding to your see Tables 2&3.

Table 2: Recommended dosage for Aromantics Preservatives

New recommended
Previously
amounts per
suggested New recommended
100ml/g of product
amounts per amounts per 100ml/g
containing herbal
100ml/g of of product
infusions or
product
decoctions

22 drops using
20 drops using small
Preservative Eco - small 0.7mm
0.7mm dropper/1g/1%
dropper/1.1g/1.1%

20-25 drops using large 25 drops using large


Preservative 12 12 drops 2mm dropper/0.8- 2mm dropper/0.9ml/
1g/0.8-1% 1g/1%

12-15 drops using large 25 drops using large


Preservative K 12 drops 2mm dropper/0.5- 2mm dropper/0.9ml/
0.6g/0.5-0.6% 1g/1%

Still 12 drops using 20 drops using large


Parabens
12 drops large 2mm dropper/ 2mm dropper/0.72ml/
(Aromantic Blend)
0.5g/0.5% 0.8g/0.8%
11

Table 3: Conversion Table for Aromantics Preservatives

1 gram of Aromantic Approximate no. of Density/Specific Gravity (grams


Preservative drops* per cubic centimetre)

approx. 20 drops using


Preservative Eco 1.018-1.118g/cm3 at 21Celsius
small 0.7mm dropper

approx. 25 drops using


Preservative 12 1.09g/cm3 at 20Celsius
large 2mm dropper

approx. 25 drops using


Preservative K 1.105g/cm3 at 20Celsius
large 2mm dropper

Parabens approx. 25 drops using


1.125g/cm3 at 25Celsius
(Aromantic Blend) large 2mm dropper

NB Drops refers to drops from Aromantics bottles with dropper lids we supply our
Preservatives in.