Costa Rica (DK Eyewitness Travel Guides)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
COSTA RICA
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
COSTA RICA
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR: CHRISTOPHER P. BAKER
MANAGING EDITOR Aruna Ghose
ART EDITOR Benu Joshi
SENIOR EDITOR Rimli Borooah
SENIOR DESIGNER Priyanka Thakur
EDITOR Ankita Awasthi
DESIGNER Shruti Singhi
SENIOR CARTOGRAPHER Uma Bhattacharya
CARTOGRAPHER Kunal Kumar Singh
PICTURE RESEARCHER Taiyaba Khatoon
DTP COORDINATOR Shailesh Sharma
DTP DESIGNER Vinod Harish
MAIN CONTRIBUTOR
Christopher P. Baker
PHOTOGRAPHERS Playa Chiquita, the Caribbean
Jon Spaull, Linda Whitwam
ILLUSTRATORS
P. Arun, Ashok Sukumaran, T. Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner CONTENTS
Reproduced by Colourscan (Singapore)
LONDON, NEW YORK,
Printed and bound in China by AND
L. Rex
DELHIPrinting Co. Ltd
MELBOURNE, MUNICH
www.dk.com
INTRODUCING
First American Edition 2005
10 11 12 13 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 COSTA RICA
Published in the United States by
DK Publishing, 375 Hudson Street, DISCOVERING COSTA
New York, New York 10014
RICA 8
Reprinted with revisions 2008, 2010
Copyright 2005, 2010 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Company PUTTING COSTA RICA
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. WITHOUT LIMITING THE RIGHTS UNDER COPYRIGHT ON THE MAP 12
RESERVED ABOVE, NO PART OF THIS PUBLICATION MAY BE REPRODUCED, STORED
IN OR INTRODUCED INTO A RETRIEVAL SYSTEM, OR TRANSMITTED, IN ANY FORM,
OR BY ANY MEANS (ELECTRONIC, MECHANICAL, PHOTOCOPYING, RECORDING, OR
A PORTRAIT OF
OTHERWISE) WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION OF BOTH THE COPYRIGHT COSTA RICA 14
OWNER AND THE ABOVE PUBLISHER OF THIS BOOK
PUBLISHED IN GREAT BRITAIN BY DORLING KINDERSLEY LIMITED. COSTA RICA THROUGH
A CATALOG RECORD FOR THIS BOOK IS AVAILABLE FROM THE
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS.
THE YEAR 34
ISSN 1542 1554
ISBN 978-0-75666-201-1 THE HISTORY OF
Front cover main image: Nicoya Peninsula, COSTA RICA 40
Tortuga Island, Costa Rica
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date
as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however,
such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging
arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The
publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
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Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain.
dance near Cartago
Tropical rainforest in Parque Nacional Corcovado, Peninsula de Osa

THE NORTHERN ZONE SURVIVAL GUIDE
144
PRACTICAL
THE CARIBBEAN 160 INFORMATION 256
THE SOUTHERN ZONE TRAVEL INFORMATION

174 264
TRAVELERS GENERAL INDEX

NEEDS 272
WHERE TO STAY 196 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

284
WHERE TO EAT 220
PHRASE BOOK 286
SHOPPING IN COSTA
RICA 238
COSTA RICA AREA
BY AREA
COSTA RICA AT A
GLANCE 50
SAN JOS 52
THE CENTRAL
HIGHLANDS 80 Traditional carved and
painted Bribri gourd
THE CENTRAL PACIFIC
AND SOUTHERN ENTERTAINMENT IN
NICOYA 106 COSTA RICA 244
GUANACASTE AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

NORTHERN NICOYA 120 AND SPECIALTY Fresh produce at the Santa Cruz
VACATIONS 248 market, Guanacaste
Exquisite orchid
Teatro Nacional
(see pp6061)
INTRODUCING
COSTA RICA
DISCOVERING COSTA RICA 811

PUTTING COSTA RICA ON THE MAP 1213
A PORTRAIT OF COSTA RICA 1433
COSTA RICA THROUGH THE YEAR 3439
THE HISTORY OF COSTA RICA 4047
8 I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A
D I S C O V E R I N G C O S TA R I C A
C osta Rica can be divided
into seven regions, corres-
ponding to well-defined
geographic criteria. The capital,
San Jos, occupies a broad valley
Nicoya are framed by volcanoes and,
to the west, by gorgeous beaches.
Northward, the land slopes down
to the sprawling lowlands of the
Northern Zone. The Caribbeans
enfolded by the mountains of the coastal plains are unique for
Central Highlands. The Central their African culture and
Pacific and Southern Nicoya Macaw made endless beaches, while the
region is a transition zone of wood rugged Souther n Zone is
between a dry ecosystem and a covered in dense rainforest. Below is
humid one. To the northwest, the dry an overview of the distinctive
plains of Guanacaste and Northern highlights of each region.
and shop for quality arts
and crafts the Centro
Comercial El Pueblo (see
p241) is recommended.
San Jos has many gourmet
dining options. Take your
pick from fine restaurants
that span the globe. La
Cocina de Lea (see p224)
offers great traditional Costa
Rican cuisine, with an
ambience to match.
Centro Costarricense de Ciencias y Cultura, San Jos 5)&$&/53"-

)*()-"/%4
Correos (see pp589) are
SAN JOS close at hand. The small t4DFOJDKPVSOFZT
squares that anchor the city t%SJWFVQWPMDBOPFT
t'BTDJOBUJOHNVTFVNT core can also be taken in. t&YIJMBSBUJOHXIJUFXBUFS
t5FBUSP/BDJPOBM Day two should be given SBGUJOH
t5PQOPUDIEJOJOH to the Museo Nacional and t$IBSNJOHDPVOUSZJOOT
t4QMFOEJETIPQQJOH Parque Nacional (see p70),
and to exploring Barrio Amn With its fabulous scenery,
A large, bustling conurbation (see p67) and the Centro charming towns, and colonial
with few historical buildings, Costarricense de Ciencias churches, the Central High-
San Jos does not have many y Cultura (see pp723). If lands region is tailor-made
sights of interests: two days time remains, check out for scenic drives. It offers
are sufficient for exploring the artwork at the Museo de delightful touring through
the city. Most attractions are Arte Costarricense (see p74) coffee fincas (farms) and
concentrated downtown
within walking distance of
one another in the compact
city core. With fine hotels for
every budget, the city center
is easily accessed on foot,
while the taxi system proves
efficient. Some localities can
be dangerous (see p270), but
police patrol the tourist areas.
One day should be spent
concentrating on San Joss
Museo del Oro Precolombino
(see pp623) and Museo de
Jade (see p67), as well as the
5FBUSP/BDJPOBM (see pp6061),
Costa Ricas Neoclassical archi-
tectural gem. The Mercado
Central and Edificio de 3BGUJOHEPXOPOFPGUIFSJWFSTJOUIF$FOUSBM)JHIMBOET
Ceramic wall mural in San Joss Barrio Amn created by local artist Fernando Matamoros
D I S C O V E R I N G C O S T A R I C A 9
lush valleys, culminating atop

towering volcanoes. Two
active volcanoes are accessed
by paved roads that lead
through lush cloud forest to
the crater rims. Encompassed
within Pos and *SB[
National Parks (see p90 and
p103), these volcanoes offer
superb opportunities for
hiking and birding, as do
relatively hard-to-access
Turrialba National Park (see
p103) and the rugged trails
of Braulio Carrillo and
Tapant-Macizo National
Parks (see p91 and p101).
Wildlife is also displayed at
several sights near Alajuela
(see p84). Particularly recom-
mended are the Butterfly
Farm, Zoo Ave (see p84),
INBioparque (see p92) and
the World of Snakes (see p86).
Heredia (see p92) makes
a good base for exploring 5IFCMVFFYQBOTFPGUIF(VMGPG/JDPZB
the coffee country, including
a visit to the Doka Estate and pre-Columbian site, and also 5PSUVHB (see pp11011),
Caf Britt (see p90 and p92) to a base for exciting rafting on offshore from Cur, is an
see how Costa Ricas splendid the Reventazn and Pacuare idyllic escape that plays
coffees are produced. 4BSDI Rivers (see p102). host to boat excursions
(see p86) a must-visit Four days should prove departing the port town
center of crafts lies along sufficient, although a week Puntarenas. Youthful travel-
an exquisite drive taking in would be required to explore ers are drawn to the tiny
Grecia (see p86) and Zarcero in-depth. Convoluted roads community of Montezuma
(see p87), known for their and lack of road signs can and the surfers haven of
metal church and topiary make for frustrating touring. .BMQBT (see p112), which
respectively. Some of the However, a large choice of enjoy spectacular settings
best scenery lies along the appealing boutique hotels, along rugged shorelines.
3PVUFPGUIF4BJOUT (see p97), some set amid coffee estates, Popular with surfers, the
while east from San Jos, a makes up for this. beach resort town of Jac
separate drive leads through (see p114) boasts casinos,
the Orosi Valley (see p98), nightclubs, and a range of
revealing some fine colonial 5)&$&/53"-1"$*'*$ hotels. Immediately north,
churches. Nearby, Turrialba "/%4065)&3//*$0:" Parque Nacional Carara (see
(see p101) is a gateway p114) extends inland from
to Monumento Nacional t1BSRVF/BDJPOBM.BOVFM the coastal highway. Excur-
(VBZBCP (see pp104105), Antonio sions, including crocodile
the nations foremost t*ODSFEJCMFTVSGJOH safaris on 3JP5SDPMFT (see
t3FMBYJOH*TMB5PSUVHB p115), are offered from Jac.
t5ISJMMJOHDSPDPEJMFTBGBSJT Explore the forests of the
rugged coastal mountains at
With two of the nations most the Rainmaker Conservation
popular and easily accessed Project (see p115).
national parks, and a fistful Most travelers in this
of other coastal wildlife region head for the Parque
reserves, this region appeals Nacional Manuel Antonio
most strongly to wildlife (see pp11819), accessed
lovers. Refugio Nacional de via the sportfishing town
Vida Silvestre Cur (see p110) of Quepos (see p116). This
and Reserva Natural Absoluta lovely park combines superb
Cabo Blanco (see p112), both beaches with a coral reef,
compact reserves along the fabulous wildlife viewing
shores of Southern Nicoya, along easily accessed trails,
Picturesque terraced farmland in offer diverse habitats and and some of the finest
UIF$FOUSBM)JHIMBOET a plethora of wildlife. *TMB hotels in the country.
Tropical dry forest in Guanacastes Parque Nacional Palo Verde, which boasts diverse habitats
of Guaitl (see p143). The are concentrated in two

GUANACASTE AND Nicoya Peninsula is known distinct regions centered on
NORTHERN NICOYA for its profusion of beaches. the towns of La Fortuna and
Playas del Coco and Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu.
Scintillating beaches Flamingo (see p136) have Bustling La Fortuna (see
Exciting horseback rides great scuba diving and p148) is the gateway to
Mysterious cloud forests sportfishing. Tamarindo (see Parque Nacional Volcn
Rare dry forest reserves p136) is the most developed Arenal (see p149), and offers
resort, while nesting marine several dozen lodges, most
The most diverse of Costa turtles can be spotted at with vistas of the soaring
Ricas regions combines Playa Grande (see p136) and volcano that erupts almost
montane cloud forests and Ostional (see p140). daily. Activities such as
lowland dry forests both spelunking in the Cavernas
full of wildlife with lovely de Venado and superb bird-
beaches. At least one week THE NORTHERN ZONE ing at Refugio Nacional de
is needed to explore this Vida Silvestre Cao Negro
region, with two weeks Volcn Arenal (see p154) lie close at hand.
required for a full tour. Active adventures Soaking in the thermal
The key destinations are Fabulous bird-watching waters at Tabacn (see p148)
connected by regional air Centro Neotrpico is a great experience, as is
services. Exploring is easy SarapiquS a ride on the Arenal Aerial
overland, with main sights Tram (see p149), which
accessed by spur roads that With Costa Ricas most active combines excitement with
branch off the Pan-American volcano, an AZ of active grand views of both the
Highway. However, a 4WD adventures, and a choice of volcano and of Lake Arenal
is recommended, not least to nature lodges and rewarding (see pp15052), popular with
reach Monteverde (see birding, the Northern Zone is windsurfers and anglers.
pp1248), acclaimed for its a booming latecomer to the Farther east, Puerto Viejo
cloud forest reserves. Farther tourist scene. The attractions de Sarapiqu (see p156) is a
north, Parque Nacional departure point for nature
Rincn de la Vieja (see p132) excursions on the Sarapiqu
offers spectacular hiking, as and San Juan Rivers. A short
well as horseback riding and distance away are eminent
mountain biking at ranches rainforest reserves such as
that double as rustic hotels. Selva Verde (see p156), Rara
Situated on the slopes Avis (see p159), and Tirim-
of Volcn Orosi, Parque bina (see p155). Adjoining
Nacional Santa Rosa (see Tirimbina is an excellent
pp1345) is a dry forest educational facility, Centro
reserve where wildlife is Neotrpico SarapiquS
easily seen. Although not as (see p155), which is dedi-
accessible as some other cated to a celebration of
parks, Santa Rosa is well pre-Columbian and contem-
worth the effort. In contrast, porary indigenous cultures.
Parque Nacional Palo Verde Heavy rainfall is possible
(see p130) has wetlands at any time of year. A 4WD
unrivaled for birding. is essential for successful
Chorotega Indian traditions Tabacn Hot Springs Resort and touring. Local airlines fly
live on in the potters hamlet Spa, Northern Zone to La Fortuna.
D I S C O V E R I N G C O S T A R I C A 11
THE CARIBBEAN
t8JMEMJGFSJDI1BSRVF
/BDJPOBM5PSUVHVFSP
t"GSP$BSJCCFBODVMUVSF
t$MPTFVQUVSUMFWJFXJOH
t8PSMEDMBTTTQPSUGJTIJOH
The Caribbean offers three

of Costa Ricas premier rain-
forest reserves, plus splendid
sportfishing and a uniquely
laid-back ambience deriving
from its Afro-Caribbean
culture. The heritage is most
colorfully alive in the village .BOHSPWFTXBNQBU1VFSUP+JNOF[ TPVUIFSO$PTUB3JDB
of $BIVJUB (see p170), where
spicy Caribbean dishes are nation. A minimum three-day terrain, requires a 4WD for
served at rough-hewn restau- stay is suggested longer if travelers exploring on their
rants that reverberate to the you wish to combine own. Come prepared for high
sounds of Bob Marley. Steps Tortuguero with Cahuita and humidity and heavy rain.
away is 1BSRVF/BDJPOBM Puerto Viejo. Drawbacks to Inland, the Talamancas offer
$BIVJUB (see p170), with trails the area include the heavy a challenge to hikers. While
that include a snorkeling year-round rainfall. Be aware well-developed trails lead to
trail. Farther south, Puerto that drugs are a problem in the summit of Cerro Chirrip
Viejo (see p172) appeals to coastal communities, and you (see p181) from San Gerardo
lovers of surf and an offbeat may find that locals exhibit, at de Rivas (see p178), access
lifestyle. Its beaches unfurl times, a surliness not found into the more remote portions
southward, culminating in elsewhere in Costa Rica. of the mountains to the south
3FGVHJP/BDJPOBMEF7JEB is along seldom-trodden trails
4JMWFTUSF(BOEPDB.BO[BOJMMP within 1BSRVF*OUFSOBDJPOBM
(see p172), good for hikes, THE SOUTHERN ZONE -B"NJTUBE (see p179).
turtle-watching, and trips in Farther south is -BT$SVDFT
search of dolphins and t 1BSRVF/BDJPOBM #JPMPHJDBM4UBUJPO (see p179),
manatees. Excursions inland $PSDPWBEP a superb destination for
provide an opportunity to t *OUSJHVJOHJOEJHFOPVT birders and individuals with
learn about the lifestyles of SFTFSWFT a botanical interest. Nearby,
indigenous communities t $IBMMFOHJOHIJLJOH a number of indigenous
(see p173). t 6OTVSQBTTFETDVCBT reserves are opening up to
The highlight of any EJWJOH the tourist trade (see p184).
Caribbean itinerary is a visit The rugged coast is known
to 1BSRVF/BDJPOBM5PSUVHVFSP Encompassing Costa Ricas for high surf and some splen-
(see p167), where exploring premier rainforests and most did diving. %PNJOJDBM and
by boat unveils a rainforest rugged mountains, this region, Zancudo (see p182 and p192)
menagerie unsurpassed in the with its exceedingly diverse are popular surfing beaches,
while 1BSRVF/BDJPOBM.BSJOP
#BMMFOB (see p182) has fine
whale-watching possibilities.
Whale- and dolphin-viewing
boat excursions are popular
from Baha Drake (see p190),
where many lodges specialize
in scuba diving.
The big draw is 1BSRVF
/BDJPOBM$PSDPWBEP (see
p191), which offers hiking
and superb wildlife-viewing.
Linked by water-taxi to the
sportfishing town of Golfito
(see p192), 1VFSUP+JNOF[
(see p190) is the gateway to
Corcovado. To the southwest
is the hard-to-reach UNESCO
World Heritage Site *TMBEFM
#FBDIHPFSTBU1BSRVF/BDJPOBM$BIVJUBJOUIF$BSJCCFBO $PDP (see p193).
Putting Costa Rica on the Map

Washed by the waters of the Caribbean Sea and
Pacific Ocean, the republic of Costa Rica lies wholly
within the tropics, between 8 and 11 degrees north
of the Equator. Bordered by Nicaragua to the north
and tapering gradually southward to Panama,
it covers 19,650 sq miles (50,900 sq km). Much LAGO DE
N I C A R A G U A Isla
of this extremely mountainous country is Mancarrn
uninhabited and overlaid with several types San
of tropical forest; almost one-third of the Carlos b
La Cruz b 4
land area is protected within reserves. Isla Bolaos Los Chiles b
Administratively, the country is divided

into seven provinces and 81 cantones 1
Aguas
(counties). It has a population of 3.9 Islas Claras
million, heavily concentrated in the Murcilagos b
Central Highlands, with some 350,000 Golfo de

people living in the capital, San Jos. Papagayo b
Liberia 6
Daniel bici
o
21 Oduber Laguna
Cor
R de Arenal
o
Ro
Tem 1 b
pi s b Tilarn
Caas
que
0 km 50 Tamarindo b
GU ANACASTE Las
b
b
Juntas
Santa Cruz
0 miles 50
Nicoya b Isla Chira 1
Miramar
s ar a
Golfo b
21
de Nicoya
No
Ostional b R o
b b Puntarenas 17
Nosara Carmona b
b
Smara
PUNT AREN AS
Isla
Tortuga
b
Malpas b
Montezuma
Isla Cabo
Blanco
PA C I F I C O C E A N
Aerial view of the capital city, San Jos
ISLA DEL COCO Isla Manuelita

Isla Pajara Baha Chatham
Baha Weston Punta Paceco
Isla Cascara
Isla Conico
Baha Wafer
Cabo Barreto
Cabo
Punta Atrevida
Maria Parque Nacional
Isla del Coco
Cabo Lionel Isla Montagne

Isla Dos
Amigos Isla Juan Bautista
Baha Yglesias
Punta Turrialba Isla Muela 0 km 3
Cabo
Dampier 0 miles 3 Isla del Coco
(310 miles)
P U T T I N G C O S T A R I C A O N T H E M A P 13
UNITED STATES OF AMERICA
ATLANTIC OCEAN
b Nueva Guinea Gulf of

MEXICO
Mexico
CUBA
NICARAG UA HAITI
DOMINICAN
REPUBLIC
BELIZE
GUATEMALA
b Punta Gorda HONDURAS Caribbean Sea
EL SALVADOR
NICARAGUA
COSTA
RICA PANAMA
VENEZ UELA
PACIFIC
Isla Del Coco
OCEAN COLOMBIA
o
R
Sa
nJ
35 ECUADOR B R AZ IL
uan
PERU
uan
a nJ Barra del
R oS b
an s Colorado
o S C arl o rip
hir o
R
ALAJUELA HEREDIA
C
Ro
o
or
Puerto Viejo Tortuguero

R o T
4 b
de Sarapiqu
CARIBBEAN SEA
b b
La Fortuna
4
LIMN
b
Ciudad Quesada
(San Carlos) Gupiles
Zarcero
b
b
32
Sacramento Siquirres
n
Sarch e
b
b
az b
Revent
3 Alajuela
b
Heredia
b
32
b
Puerto Limn
SAN JOS o
R
Juan
23 e Santamara Cartago ano
r and b
b 10 an
B
Turrialba 36
G
Ro
Ro
b
Tapant
b Orosi b
LIMN
Trcoles SAN CART AGO Cahuita b
Puerto Viejo de
JOS Bribri Talamanca
2 b
b
Jac Manzanillo
b
34 b
CO STA b
San Gerardo
de Dota R ICA
San Isidro de
n
Quepos b
re
El General
Ro U
34 b
e
rib
2 Te
Ro
b Ro Buenos
Dominical Gen
er Aires
34 a l b
PA NA M A
Palmar
Norte
Isla b
Ro Colon
Boca Brava
San
2
Isla Violin Vito
p
e
ier PUNTA RENAS b

S
R o
KEY Baha Drake b
Isla del Rincn Golto 14 b Ciudad Neily
International airport Cao b
b
Coto 47
Domestic airport Puerto b b Zancudo David
b
Jimnez Golfo
b
Ferry La Cuesta
Dulce
Pan-American Highway
Major road
International border
Provincial border
Ferry route
I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A 15
A P O R T R A I T O F C O S TA R I C A
D
ominated by mountain ranges and verdant forests, gouged
by fertile valleys, and flanked by lovely beaches and the
ocean, Costa Rica is undoubtedly one of the most beau-
tiful places on earth. Vivid colors of nature, a virtually unmatched
range of outdoor activities, friendly, hospitable people, and the
subtle charm of an essentially rustic lifestyle all combine to make
the country one of the worlds favorite tropical holiday destinations.
Straddling the Meso-American Central American nations, with

isthmus at the juncture of the Spanish influence being
North and South America, all-encompassing and indige-
this diminutive nation is nous culture having little
barely 300 miles (480 km) i m p a c t . H o w e v e r, n o n -
north to south and 175 miles Spanish cultures exist in a few
(280 km) at its widest point, Costa Ricas official pockets, such as the Jamaican
near the Nicaraguan border. emblem ethos of the Caribbean coast.
Occupying one of the Another distinctive feature is
worlds most geologically unstable the nations conservation ethic, as evi-
areas, the country is subjected to denced by its nationwide network of
powerful tectonic forces that trigger wildlife parks and refuges, which
earthquakes and punctuate the land- embraces about 30 percent of its area,
scape with smoldering volcanoes. more than any other nation on earth.
With scores of micro-climates, the
emerald landscape is a quiltwork of CONSERVING NATURES WONDERS
12 different life zones, from coastal The greatest appeal of Costa Rica is
wetlands to subalpine grassland. its astonishing wealth of flora and
Costa Rica is characterized by a fauna, protected within more than
homogeneity of culture unique among 190 biological reserves, national parks,
A farmhouse on the flanks of Volcn Arenal, in the Northern Zone
A milkman pushing his cart along a street in one of San Joss residential districts
Columbus stepped ashore in 1491, are

increasing in area once again.
Fortunately, there are several conser-
vation organizations that are unstinting
in their efforts to save flora and fauna.
Also, the governments focus on inte-
grating protected regions by grouping
them into 11 distinct regional units
within a Sistema Nacional de Areas de
Conservacin (National System of
Regional Conservation Areas) is a giant
step in the right direction.
The guanacaste tree, Costa Ricas national tree
THE GOVERNMENT
wildlife refuges, and similar entities. A democratic republic, Costa Rica has a
The Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo government headed by an elected
Blanco was created as the first pro- president, who is assisted by two vice
tected reserve in the country in 1963. presidents and a cabinet of 17 members.
Since then, more parks and reserves The Asamblea Legislativa (Legislative
have been set up every year. Assembly) is a single chamber of 57
However, destruction of the natural popularly elected diputados (deputies),
habitat continues, even in some pro- limited to two terms. The president
tected regions. The park service is appoints regional governors, who pre-
understaffed and lacks the funds to side over the seven provinces of San
compensate owners for expropriated Jos, Alajuela, Cartago, Guanacaste,
land. Thus, the wetlands of Refugio Heredia, Limn, and Puntarenas.
Nacional de Vida Silvestre Cao Two parties dominate the political
Negro are imperiled by landowners scene and have traditionally alternated
reclaiming precious marshlands for in power with each election. The
farming. Animal populations are social-democratic Partido de Liberacin
declining in Parque Nacional Manuel Nacional (National Liberation Party)
Antonio due to loss of habitat. Illegal champions welfare programs, while the
hunting menaces the populations of conservative Partido de Unidad Social
jaguars, tapirs, and wild pigs in Parque Cristiana (Social Christian Unity Party)
Nacional Corcovado. Logging, how- is pro-business. All citizens between 18
ever, has been tamed and forests, and 70 years of age are mandated to
which diminished by two-thirds since vote. A Special Electoral Tribunal
The famed Reserva Biolgica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve)
A P O R T R A I T O F C O S T A R I C A 17
appointed by the Supreme Court over-

sees the integrity of elections.
Costa Rica declared neutrality in 1949
and has no official army, navy, or air
force, although branches of the police
force have a military capability. Citizens
proudly proclaim that since the late
19th century, only two brief periods of
violence have marred the nations
democratic development, and the coun-
try has avoided the bloodshed that has
afflicted neighboring countries. How-
ever, it has not been aloof from Latin
American issues: in 1987, President
Oscar Arias won the Nobel Peace Prize
for brokering peace on the isthmus.
THE ECONOMY
Costa Ricas thriving economy is today Papayas being sorted for sale in a town market
powered mainly by tourism. With its
stupendous landscape of mountains, THE PEOPLE
beaches, and forests full of exotic flora Costa Ricans are known as Ticos
and fauna, the country offers opportu- because of their habitual use of this term
nities for outdoor life and active as a diminutive for instance,
adventures. The focus is on momentico f o r j u s t a
ecotourism, promoted by the moment, instead of the usual
Instituto Costarricense de momentito. The majority
Turismo (Costa Rica Tourism are descendants of early
Institute) under the advertising Spanish settlers. Indigenous
slogan of Costa Rica No peoples account for a fraction
Artificial Ingredients. Another of the pop ulation, and live
factor aiding tourism is the Resident in Costa tucked away in remote reserves.
countrys reputation for stabil- Rican colors Concentrated on the Caribbean
ity in an area rent by political coast, Afro-Caribbeans are main-
upheavals. Well-planned specialized ly descended from Jamaicans who came
lodges, large hotels, and beach resorts as contract labor in the 19th century,
serve the spectrum from budget to and form a large community. A sizeable
deluxe markets.
San Jos is one of
Central Americas
major financial centers
w i t h a b u rg e o n i n g
high-technology indus-
trial sector. Beyond the
capital, the country is
still largely agricultural.
Land ownership is
widespread, except in
Guanacaste, where
large-scale cattle fincas
(farms) prevail. Coffee
and bananas are Costa
Ricas two most impor-
tant crops. The bustling capital city, San Jos
Traditional oxcart used for farming in the Costa Rican countryside
Chinese population also exists, mainly especially in poorer areas and among
in the Caribbean province of Limn. In the indigenous communities.
recent years, tens of thousands of North The country has the highest rate of
Americans and people of other nation- literacy and life expectancy in Latin
alities have settled in Costa Rica, drawn America. Internet access is relatively
partly by its fabulous climate. widespread, and mobile telephone
About eight out of ten Costa Ricans are use is the highest in Central America.
nominally Catholic, and a significant Roads and electricity extend into even
portion of the population are regular the most remote backwaters, and
practitioners of the faith. The most ven- today few communities are entirely
erated figure is La Negrita, the countrys isolated from the modern world. In
patron saint, who is believed to grant fact, Josefinos (residents of San Jos)
miracles. Although proselytizing is ille- lead a typically modern urban lifestyle,
gal, the influence of evangelical and the capital has a well-developed
Christians has grown in recent years, and entrepreneurial middle-class.
However, old traditions survive in the
countryside, where a peasant lifestyle
still prevails, the horse is the main
form of transport, and oxen are used
as day-to-day beasts of burden.
Life revolves around the family usu-
ally headed by a matriarch and an
immediate circle of compadres (friends
and fellow workers). Individuals tend
to guard their personal lives closely
and are more inclined to invite
acquaintances to dine at restaurants
than to welcome them into their
homes. However, Ticos are a warm-
hearted people and always treat
strangers with great civility.
Costa Ricans are proud of their coun-
trys neutrality and stable democracy.
Although a recent influx of immigrants
with Indian features from neigh-
boring countries has caused much
resentment, Ticos are generally a
Effigies carried along a street as part of Good Friday liberal, tolerant people with a concern
celebrations for societal harmony and welfare.
THE ARTS AND SPORTS the National Symphony

Crafts dominate the artistic Orchestra perform in
scene, mainly because of the Teatro Nacional and
the tremendous creativity at the less formal annual
displayed by artisans. International Festival of
Woodcarvers such as Barry Music, while the young
Biesanz produce hard- dress down to dance to
wood bowls of immense fast-paced Latin meren-
delicacy. The indigenous gue in clubs and bars.
influence lives on in the Virtually every town has
creation of gold jewelry, a bandstand where
which adopts the pre- people enjoy folk music
Columbian motif of animist featuring the marimba,
figurines. Other native a form of xylophone.
crafts include the pottery The guitar is the main
created by the community accompaniment to the
of Guaitl in the style of punto guanacasteco,
their Chorotega ancestors. A traditional dance performance the national folk dance
The arts scene was, until near Cartago performed by
recent years, dominated by men and women
the nations campesino (peasant) heri- in traditional costume.
tage, which found its most influential Played on weekends by
expression with the Group of New local teams throughout the
Sensibility in the 1920s. Headed by country, soccer is the
Teodorico Quirs Alvarado (1897 national obsession for
1977), the movement evolved a stylized men. Rodeos and topes
art form depicting idyllic rural land- (horse parades) are a
scapes, with cobbled streets, adobe focus of general fes-
dwellings, and peasants with oxcarts tivities, while corridas de
against volcanic backgrounds. Their toros (non-fatal bull-run-
influence remains to this day, notably ning) are popular with
in miniature paintings that are a staple men eager to prove their Corridas de
in many homes and souvenir stores. machismo. Most Costa toros
An exception to the insipid art of the Ricans are passionate

mid-20th century were the powerful about activities performed in the open
depictions of peasant life by the air such as running and cycling, which
internationally renowned sculptor is only to be expected in this land of
Francisco Ziga (191298). Contem- nature and the outdoors.
porary artists such as
Rodolfo Stanley and
Jimnez Deredia have
invigorated the scene
with compelling avant-
garde works.
Carlos Luis Fallass
novel Mamita Yunai
(1941), about the plight
of banana workers, is
the sole literary work of
international note. Costa
Ricans are great theater-
goers, however, and
theater venues are scat-
tered all over San Jos
and some other cities.
Josefinos dress up to hear A local soccer match in progress in Heredia
Landscape and Wildlife

Few countries on earth can rival Costa
Rica for diversity of flora and fauna.
Despite its tiny size, the nation is
home to almost 5 percent of the
worlds identified living species,
including more types of butterflies
than the whole of Africa. This aston-
One of Costa ishing wealth of wildlife is due to the
Ricas butterflies countrys great variety in relief and
climate, from lowland wetlands to
cloud-draped mountaintops. As a result, Costa Rica
boasts 12 distinct life zones, each with a unique Perfectly conical Arenal, Costa
combination of climate, terrain, flora, and fauna. Ricas most active volcano
LOWLAND RAINFOREST MONTANE CLOUD FOREST

Rainforests (see pp223) cloak many of the More than half of Costa Rica is over 3,300 ft
plains and lower mountain slopes of the (1,000 m) above sea level. Much of the
Caribbean lowlands and Pacific southwest. higher elevation terrain is swathed in cloud
These complex ecosystems harbor a large forest (see p129), where mists sift through
proportion of the countrys wildlife. Tapirs the treetops and branches are festooned with
and jaguars inhabit the understory, while bromeliads and dripping mosses. Bird and
birds and monkeys cavort animal life is profuse.
in the treetops.
Three-wattled bellbirds
Sloths hang from branches are rarely seen but often
and live upside-down their heard: their distinct call
entire lives. Both the two-toed sounds like metal being
and three-toed species eat struck. The male grows
only leaves. These slow- three worm-like wattles.
moving creatures have an
extremely slow metabolic rate.
Spider monkeys
have long, spindly
limbs and prehensile
tails ideal for life
in the upper stories
Leafcutter of the forests.
ants cut and
Red-eyed tree chew leaves into Kinkajous, tree-
frogs are difficult to mulch that is used dwelling relatives of
spot, as they usually to fertilize fungi, the raccoon, have
cling to the under- whose spores the ants prehensile tails, and
side of leaves. then eat. are nocturnal.
COASTS
The total length of Costa Ricas coastline is over 800 miles
(1,290 km). On the Pacific, promontories and scalloped bays Marine turtles each
are common, while the Caribbean coast is almost ruler-straight. lay about 100 eggs
Small patches of coral reef fringe the coast off the Central Pacific in nests above the
and southern Caribbean shores. Many beaches provide nesting high-tide mark.
grounds for various species of marine turtles (see p171).
Beaches in Costa
Rica come in
every color, from
white and gold to
chocolate and Hammerhead sharks swim in
black. Most are large congregations off Isla
backed by forest. del Coco (see p193).
DRY FOREST WETLAND

Once covering most of Guanacaste and Wetlands range from coastal mangroves (see
Nicoya, dry forests (see p133) today cover p185) such as the Terraba-Sierpe delta in the
only about 200 sq miles (520 sq km) of Costa Pacific southwest, to inland lagoons such as
Rica. The mostly deciduous flora sheds its Cao Negro in the north. Many habitats are
leaves during the seasonal drought, making seasonal, flooding in the wet season from
wildlife easier to spot. Conservationists are May to November; wildlife gathers by water-
trying to revive dry forest ecosystems. holes in the DecemberApril dry season.
Bats comprise more than Mangroves, which

half of all mammal thrive in alluvial silts
species in Costa Rica. deposited by rivers,
The tropical dry form a vital nursery for
forests have over marine creatures and
70 species of bats. avian fauna, such as
the frigate bird.
Anteaters rip open
termite nests and
anthills with their Roseate spoonbills,
scythe-like claws. herons, egrets, and many
Tamanduas are a other wading birds and
type of tree- waterfowl inhabit bodies
dwelling anteater. of fresh water.
Iguanas are camou- Crocodiles and small caimans

flaged green for an live in Costa Ricas freshwater
arboreal life. Males lagoons and lowland rivers. The
turn orange during American crocodile can
the mating season. grow to 16 ft (5 m).
The Rainforest Ecosystem MAJOR RAINFOREST

The lowlands of Costa Rica are enveloped in tropical RESERVES
rainforest, its canopies forming an uninterrupted sea PN Carara see p114
of greenery. Hardwood trees, such as mahogany and PN Corcovado see p191
kapok, may tower 200 ft (61 m) or more, and rely on PN Tapant-Macizo
wide-spreading roots to support their weight. The la Muerte see p101
PN Tortuguero see p167
forests comprise distinct layers, from ground to treetop RNVS Gandoca-
canopy. Each layer has its own distinct microclimate Manzanillo see p172
as well as flora and fauna, with the vast majority of
species concentrated at higher levels. Animals such as
kinkajous, sloths, and arboreal snakes are adapted for
life in the branches, which are weighed down by
vines, epiphytes, and other vascular plants.
Bromeliads adorn the branches.

These epiphytes (air plants)
have nested leaves that meet at the
base to form cisterns. Leaf litter
falling into these tanks provides
nourishment for the plants.
Creeping vines of
many varieties grow
on the tree trunks, and
use grappling hooks
and other devices to
reach sunlight.
Buttress roots have evolved to hold towering trees

steady. These thin flanges radiate out in all directions
from the base of the trunk, like the fins of a
rocket. The largest can be 10 ft (3 m) high
and extend 16 ft (5 m) from the base.
Heliconias grow abundantly on the forest floor, and

draw hummingbirds, insects, and other pollinators
to their flaming red, orange, and yellow bracts.
Walking palms literally migrate across

the forest floor atop stilt roots only
loosely attached to the ground.
The soilof rainforests is thin since leaf litter

decomposes rapidly and nutrients are swiftly
recycled. Heavy rainfall further leaches the soil.
Emergent trees
FAUNA
rise above the forest
canopy where their Rainforests shelter many of the largest
crowns are often and most endangered mammal species,
buffeted by high such as tapirs, peccaries, and jaguars.
winds. Many Most animal and bird species are well
species bloom camouflaged and difficult to spot in the
flamboyantly shadows of the dark, dappled forest.
in season.
Squirrel monkeys, or titis,

are the smallest as well
as most endangered
of Costa Ricas monkeys,
and are found only in
Pacific southwest
rainforests. They live
in large bands and
are omnivorous.
The upper canopy

forms an unbroken
stretch of foliage.
About 80 percent of
rainforest vegetation is
concentrated here, as
is most wildlife.
The jaguar, known locally as tigre,

requires a large territory for hunting. It is
Orchids
endangered, mainly because of illicit hunt-
ing and loss of rainforest habitat (see p113).
Pit vipers are well

camouflaged and
perfectly adapted
for stealthy
hunting in the
understory, where
they feed on small
birds and rodents.
Toucans are easily

recognized by their
distinctive calls and
colorful beaks. These
predominantly fruit-
Understory species, adapted eating birds are
for varying amounts of found in all of Costa
sunlight, may grow to Ricas rainforests.
80 ft (24 m) tall. Many are
genetically coded to grow
rapidly whenever a
large tree falls, which
opens a space for
new growth. The harpy eagle, the
largest member of the
eagle family, clings to
The forest floor
existence in the rain-
is sparsely vege-
tated. Rain on the
forests of Corcovado and
canopy can take Gandoca-Manzanillo.
up to an hour to
reach the ground.
Canopy Tours
Costa Rica is the world leader in canopy tours,
which allow active travelers to explore the forest
canopy more than 100 ft (30 m) above the jungle
floor. Facilities such as suspended walkways and
rappels by horizontal zipline cable, which usually link
a series of treetop platforms, offer a monkeys-eye
view. Aerial trams (modified ski lifts) are a more
sedentary option. Such experiences can be a fascinat-
ing way to learn about treetop ecology and compare
various forest environments, from rainforest to
montane cloud forest. Zipline tours are more for the
Treetop platforms are usually
thrill it is unlikely that wildlife will be spotted while
built around the trunks below
whizzing between trees at high speed. The one the treetop canopy, and are
drawback of canopy tours is that they often disturb supported by branches. Some
the local ecology, scaring away many creatures. tours offer the option of
overnighting on the platform.
Aerial trams operate like ski lifts,

using similar technology. Naturalist
guides accompany visitors on the
Rainforest Aerial Trams (near Jac
and Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo)
and Arenal Rainforest Tram to educate
visitors about forest ecology.
All forest types in Costa Rica, from dry

forest to montane cloud forest, host canopy
tours. By going on several tours, visitors can
experience diverse habitats.
Trails with interpretive signs,

found at most canopy tour
sites, provide insights into life
at ground level. Combined
with the tours, they provide a
broad understanding of the
interrelationships between
ecology at different levels.
Most trails are slippery
sturdy footwear with good
grip is recommended.
LOCATIONS OF THE
BEST CANOPY TOURS
s"AHA#ULEBRAsee p136
s"AHA$RAKEsee p190
s*ACsee p114
s,AGUNADE!RENALsee p149
s-ONTEVERDE see pp1248
s-ONTEZUMAsee p112
s0.2INCNDELA6IEJA
see p132
Zipline tours follow trails, comprising a s2AINFOREST!ERIAL4RAM
series of steel cables that run between trees or see p159
Towers and
span canyons, and can exceed 1 mile (2 km). cables made of
s2AINMAKER#ONSERVATION
Sped by gravity, the visitor flies between reinforced 0ROJECTsee p115
the spans, securely attached concrete and steel s4ABACNsee p148
in a harness. are built to the s4ERMALESDEL"OSQUE
highest standards see pp1545
according to s6ERAGUA2AINFOREST
government Research and Adventure
regulations. 0ARKsee p170
Suspended walkways held

aloft by steel cables permit
the best wildlife viewing.
Visitors can follow their own
pace and stop at will to
Visitors centersare watch a creature. Many sites
located at some sites, and have trails formed from a
often feature restaurants, series of walkways.
exhibits, and gift stores.
THE BEGINNINGS
The American scientist
Dr. Donald Perry pioneered
the concept of the canopy
biologist in the 1970s,
when he developed a sys-
tem of ropes, pulleys, and
a radio-controlled cage to
move through the treetops
at his research site near
Rara Avis. Perrys successful
automated web led him
Bridges, built for utilitarian to eventually build an
purposes before the canopy tour aerial tram that would per-
concept took hold, have been mit the public the same
incorporated into some tours. privileged access for Dr. Donald Perry exploring the
Some of the more ramshackle educational purposes. forest canopy at Rara Avis
ones can be slightly unnerving.
Birds of Costa Rica

Nirvana for birders, Costa Rica has
more than 850 bird species about 10
percent of the worlds known total, and
twice as many as the USA and Canada
combined. Although the national bird
is the clay-brown yiquirro (robin), many
Mealy others are more exotically plumed. Tanagers,
parrot manakins, and trogons, inhabit the thick
forests, where they are hard to spot despite
their bright plumage. Waders such as egrets, ibis, and
spoonbills are easily seen amid the wetlands, while Bird-watching with
vultures and raptors are commonly sighted soaring experienced naturalist guides
is richly rewarding. Carry
overhead or squatting atop poles. binoculars and a tripod.
The green macaw or Buffons

macaw (lapa verde) is an
endangered species restricted to
the northern lowlands.
Trogons are pigeon-sized

forest birds identified by
their black and white
striped tails. Most come in
two-color combinations,
such as blue and yellow,
or green and red. The
most beautiful member
of the trogon family is
the resplendent quetzal
(see p179), an iridescent
emerald-green bird, which
was considered sacred in
Mayan culture.
Toucans, easily recognized

by their oversized bills, are PARROTS AND MACAWS
found from elevations of Garrulous creatures of the forest, the
2,000 ft (610 m) to sea parrot family ranges from small, swift,
level. The keel-billed short-tailed parrakeets to the giants of
toucan has a banana- the parrot kingdom, the long-tailed
yellow chest, a black body, macaws (above). Most parrots are green
and a startling rainbow- with varying patches of red, white,
striped beak (left). The and/or yellow. They have hooked bills
smaller aracaris and and powerful claws for grasping fruits
toucanets are more and nuts. Costa Rica is home to 16 species
varied in color. of parrots and two species of macaws.
SEABIRDS Brown pelicans are

Costa Ricas shores are crowded present year-round
with seabirds. Oystercatchers, on the Pacific coast
spotted sandpipers, and and can be spotted
whimbrels scurry around at the easily as they dive
waters edge. Coastal mangroves for fish.
are home to blue heron, ibis,
and neotropic cormorants, Frigate birds nest in colonies on top
while several offshore islands of coastal shrubs. During the
are important nesting sites for mating season, males inflate bright
boobies, laughing gulls, and red chest pouches to woo the
storm petrels. females that fly overhead.
Hummingbirds, named for the bee-like hum

of their wings beating at a blurry 100 times per
Migratory birds flock to Costa Ricas wetlands, second, are able to hover as they sip nectar from
especially toward the end of the DecemberApril flowers through hollow, needle-like beaks. They
dry season. Blue-winged teal, Muscovy ducks, are very territorial despite their tiny size: males
black-bellied whistling ducks, and other winter can often be seen in spectacular aerial battles.
migrants arrive in their tens of thousands.
Macaws are usually found in pairs. These
colorful birds are an extraordinary sight
as they fly overhead, screeching loudly.
The scarlet macaw (lapa roja) is blood red, with

wings of yellow and blue. It is commonly seen
in Santa Rosa, Carara, Manuel Antonio, and
Corcovado National Parks.
Tanagers are small,

vibrant birds that live
in the forests. The
summer tanager
(left) is a flame-red
bird. The blue-gray
tanager is variegated
in peacock hues.
Short wings permit
fast flight through
the forest. About 50
species of tanagers
live in Costa Rica.
Vultures are found across

Costa Rica; the country has
four species of this scavenger,
and about 50 types of raptors,
including owls, the osprey,
the laughing falcon, and the
endangered harpy eagle, the
worlds largest eagle.
Bare-throated
WETLAND BIRDS Northern tiger-herons
Costa Rica is on the jacana have are graceful
migratory path of elongated toes waterbirds.
numerous waterfowl, for walking Costa Rica hosts
such as black-bellied across floating about 20 species
whistling ducks, which lilypads. Male of herons.
stop seasonally at Palo jacana rear
Verde (see p130) and the young.
similar flooded regions.
Jabiru, roseate spoonbills, and Sunbitterns spread their wings
cormorants are among the to reveal distinctive patterns
permanent wetland species. that are designed for defense.
Beaches of Costa Rica

Most of Costa Ricas shoreline, which extends for
800 miles (1,290 km), is lined with beaches in a range
of colors, from sugar white to varying shades of gray
and brown. On the straight Caribbean coast, beaches
stretch for miles, while the ones on the serrated
Pacific coast are separated by rocky headlands. In
most places, thick forest edges right up to the shore,
lending a dramatic beauty to even the dullest brown
sands. The coastal waters are relatively murky due to Playa Naranjo, hemmed by
silt washed down by numerous rivers and there are few tropical dry forest, is difficult
coral reefs. Beaches run the gamut from developed to access, but offers tremendous
areas, with resorts and various amenities, to isolated, wildlife viewing, including
sightings of leatherback turtles.
virtually undiscovered stretches of sand. Dozens of Mangroves nearby harbor caim-
beaches offer great swimming and surfing (see p137). ans and crocodiles (see p137).
Playa Conchal, or Shell Playa Flamingo

Beach, is acclaimed for its (see p136) b
snow-white beach, comprised -PT$IJMFT

of billions of minute seashells.
The turquoise waters are
unusually clear (see p136). THE NORTHERN
ZONE
b -JCFSJB
GUANACASTE AND -B'PSUVOB b
NORTHERN NICOYA $JVEBE

2VFTBEB b
4BO$BSMPT
Playas del Coco /JDPZB b
(see p136)
b 1VOUBSFOBT
THE CENTRAL PACIFIC
AND SOUTHERN NICOYA
Playa Ostional is
one of about 12
Playa Grande is Costa Ricas beaches worldwide
most important nesting site where endangered
Pacific ridley turtles
for leatherback turtles. This crawl ashore en masse
long, scalloped beach of to nest (see p140). Playa Jac, popular with
coral-gray sands is also a surfers and lined with
famed surfing destination, hotels, is a lively beach
attracting hundreds of resort (see p114).
surfers every year (see p136). Playa Montezuma is a beautiful, coconut-
fringed, cream-colored beach. Its rough
waters are unsafe for swimming (see p112).
Playa Carrillo is
virtually unde-
veloped, despite
the hotels dotting
the nearby hills.
Fishing boats
gather in a cove
at the southern
Playa Guiones is several miles long and extremely end of this palm-
deep at low tide (see p140). It has tidepools, and shaded beach,
in recent years it has been the site of arribadas which is backed
(see p141) of Pacific ridley turtles. by an airstrip.
Tortugueros beach is an unbroken, 23-mile (37-km) long

stretch of gray sand backed by forest. It is a prime nesting
site for green turtles, who emerge glistening from the surf
to lay eggs in the sand (see p167).
Cahuitas beaches Playa Negra with its black sands

and the golden Playa Blanca are edged by rainforest.
The forest and the coral reef bordering Playa Blanca are
protected within Parque Nacional Cahuita (see p170).
5PSUVHVFSP b
b
1VFSUP7JFKP
EF4BSBQJRV
THE CARIBBEAN
Playa Cocles is a popular surfing center.
"MBKVFMB Splendidly scenic, it is perfect for sunbathing,
b
)FSFEJB
b 1VFSUP b although swimmers should beware the riptides.
-JNO
SAN $BSUBHP
b
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THE CENTRAL
0 miles 25
HIGHLANDS
b 2VFQPT
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4BO*TJESP
EF&M(FOFSBM Playa Zancudo
has miles of gray
sand and excellent
THE SOUTHERN surf (see p192).
ZONE
Playa Manuel (PMmUP b
Antonio
(see p118) 1VFSUP b
+JNOF[
Gandoca-Manzanillo, a remote
reserve with gray-black beaches,
also contains swamps and
Baha Ballena is an unspoilt bay
fringed with a mile (1.6-km) long
mangroves inhabited by crocodiles,
gray sand beach. Dolphins and manatees, and varieties of birds.
whales congregate offshore, where Four species of marine turtles nest
a coral reef offers fine snorkeling. in the beach sands (see p172).
The Story of Costa Rican Coffee

Costa Rica is famed for its flavorful
coffee. Coffea arabica a bush native
to Ethiopia was introduced to the
country in 1779. For more than a
A cup of Costa
Rican coffee
century, beginning in the 1830s, the
grano de oro (golden grain) was Costa
Ricas foremost export, funding the construction of
fine buildings. The nations mountains provide ideal
conditions for the coffee plant, which prefers consis- Guided tours of plantations
tently warm temperatures, distinct wet and dry seasons, and beneficios (processing
and fertile, well-drained slopes. More than 425 sq miles factories) give visitors a chance
(1,100 sq km), concentrated in the Central Highlands, to see beans being processed, as
well as offering demonstrations
are dedicated to coffee production. of cupping (tasting).
COFFEE PLANTATIONS
After being raised in
nurseries, 8 to 12 month-
old coffee seedlings are
planted beneath shade trees
in long rows perpendicular
to the slope to help avoid
soil erosion. They require
precise amounts of sun- Coffee seedlings ready to
light, water, and fertilizer. be planted Worker weeding in a coffee plantation
Shade trees
allow the
proper amount
of sunlight to
filter through.
Elevations
between 2,650
and 4,900 ft
(8001,500 m)
are ideal for
coffee estates.
The volcanic soil

contains the
nutrients that
coffee bushes
require.
THE EARLY DAYS

Before the construction of the railroads in
the late 19th century, coffee beans were
packed in gunny sacks and transported to
the port of Puntarenas in carretas
(oxcarts). Trains of oxcarts loaded with
coffee traveled down the mountains of
Costa Rica in convoys. From Puntarenas,
the beans were shipped to Europe, a
journey that took three months. Carreta (oxcart) transporting sacks of coffee
BERRIES TO BEANS
Typically it takes four years for the shiny-leafed
coffee bush to mature and fruit. With the arrival
of the rains in early May, small white blossoms
appear, giving off a jasmine-like scent. The fleshy
green berries containing the beans gradually turn
red as they ripen. Each berry contains two hemi-
spherical seeds, or beans. Well-tended bushes White coffee Green and red
produce cerrezas (cherries) for about 40 years. blossoms berries
The harvest normally begins in November. Traditionally,

entire families would head into the fields to help with
harvesting. Although children can still be seen picking
coffee, today Nicaraguans and indigenous peoples form
the majority of the labor pool.
The red berries

are hand-
picked by
workers.
Handwoven
wicker baskets
are usually
used Coffee workers wait in line to measure baskets
to hold the of freshly harvested coffee. The berries are
berries. shipped to a beneficio for processing.
At the beneficio, the

berries are cleaned.
The fleshy outer pulp
is then stripped off The moist beans are dried, either in The dried beans have their
and returned to the the traditional manner by being laid leathery skins removed before
slopes as fertilizer. out in the sun, or in hot-air ovens. being roasted.
PACKAGING
The roasted beans are sorted by quality, size, and shape. Export-
quality beans are vacuum-sealed in foil bags and typically come
in light roast, dark roast, espresso, decaffeinated, and organic
varieties. Lower grade beans for the domestic market are sold
loose at local markets as caf puro (unadulterated) or caf
traditional (containing 10 percent sugar).
Coffee packed
for export Roasted coffee beans
Different varieties of coffee Ground coffee Coffee bags Coffee liqueur

The Indigenous Groups

Sparsely inhabited at the time of Columbuss arrival, the
country today has 40,000 indigenous inhabitants, who
account for less than 1 percent of the total population.
They belong to seven main tribes Chorotega, Boruca,
Bribri, Cabcar, Guaym, Guatuso/Maleku, and Huetar.
Living relatively marginalized from mainstream society in
22 remote reserves, the tribes sustain themselves by hunt-
ing and farming; and some continue to create traditional
handicrafts. The aboriginal way of life is under constant
threat by missionary activity and by the governments
habitual espousal of logging and mining interests over The Guatuso/Maleku
those of indigenous peoples. Few tribes speak their native retain their language and
customs. They are known
language, and even fewer have been able to keep their for bark cloth (mastate)
religious traditions free from outside influences. painted with the fingertips.
Carved and painted gourds,

The Bribri today called jcara by the Bribri, are
comprise 10,000 indi- used as vessels and objects of
viduals, who cling to decoration by most indige-
nous groups. Pictured here
their collective faith is a Bribri jcara.
in Sib, the creator
of the universe. They
welcome visits to the Motifs depict natural
Reserva Indgena elements. To preserve
KekLdi (see p173), tribal identity, names
where some Bribri of the elements are
carved in traditional
continue to live in
languages as well as
traditional huts. in Spanish.
Huts are
thatched to
the ground.
INDIGENOUS ARTIFACTS
Many of the traditional crafts of
Costa Ricas indigenous peoples
emphasize their relationship with
the rainforest. Age-old techniques
continue to be used in contemporary
works. Crafts, clothing, and musical
instruments of several tribes, as well
A traditional Bribri hut a as shamanic totems, are displayed in the
windowless, conical structure Museo de Cultura Indgena (see p155).
WHERE INDIGENOUS PEOPLES LIVE

4BO3BGBFMEF
b
(VBUFTP With the exception of the Chorotega, who have
intermixed with other peoples in northwest Costa
(VBJUM b
b
Rica, the indigenous population is relegated to
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b remote regions in the Talamanca Mountains
b
4BOUJBHPEF #SJCSJ and the Pacific southwest. The tribes
KEY 1VSJTDBM b
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b
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live in reserves administered by the
Boruca National Commission for Indigenous
1BMNBS
Bribri b
/PSUF Affairs (CONAI), which works to promote
education, health services, and community
Cabcar
b
(PMmUP development. However, it is underfunded,
Guaym and has met only modest success in
Guatuso/Maleku protecting the indigenous cultures from
exploitation by commercial interests, which
Huetar
continue to encroach on tribal land.
The Boruca cling

precariously to ances-
tral lands in the hills
west of the Terraba
valley. They are famed for
their balsa-wood masks
(mascaras) of animals
The Chorotega of Guanacaste and representing supernatural
Northern Nicoya were the largest tribe beings, used in the Fiesta de
in the pre-Columbian era. Today, about los Diablitos (see p184).
1,000 true-blood Chorotegas
live in matriarchal families,
and take pride in their
distinctive pottery.
Chorotega
pottery, with its
characteristic
earth-tones, continues to be pro-
duced in Guaitl (see p143).
Designs are created by

pecking tender green
gourds with a needle. The
The Huetar of the Puriscal region still
residual skin surrounding
the design is then scraped practice the ancient Festival of the Corn
away. As the gourd dries, but in many other aspects have been
the skin turns dark brown. integrated into mainstream society.
Ul (healing cane)
used by shamans
The Cabcar live

in the Talamanca-
Cabcar Reserve (see
p173) and today
consist of about 5,000
individuals. Shamanic
rituals remain an
integral part of
Cabcar culture.
The Guaym retain

a strong cultural
identity, including
the Guaym lan-
guage. Uniquely,
women still wear the
traditional garment
with decorative tri-
angular patterns,
as well as collares
(necklaces) of
colorful beads.
Guaym painters
experiment freely with
scenes of daily life, images
of natural forms, and Traditional
spiritual symbols. Guaym dress
COSTA RICA THROUGH THE YEAR

A major factor in planning a
visit to Costa Rica is the
weather. The dry season
(DecemberApril) offers the
best climate and draws the
and lower prices: for those willing
to brave the rains, this is a good
time to visit. Religious cere-
monies and folk festivities are
held year-round, though the
most visitors. Christmas and celebrations usually lack the
New Year, as well as Easter, color and vitality of Mexico
when Costa Rica celebrates its and Guatemala. Topes (horse
most colorful festivals, are the shows) and rodeos are the
peak periods: schools and Ticos in
staples of provincial events.
offices close, and the nation traditional dress Note that while many rodeos
goes on holiday. Late April and include bull-baiting, visitors
May are relatively less crowded. can choose not to view the events.
Promoted by the tourism department The Caribbean moves to its own
as the green season, the wet months beat, and a strong Afro-Caribbean
(MayNovember) see fewer visitors heritage influences its festivities.
Tope Nacional de Caballos
(Dec 26), San Jos. During
the nations most famous
tope, the countrys finest
horsemen show off their
skills in a parade of more
than 3,000 horses along
Paseo Coln.
Fiesta de la Luz (Dec 26),
San Jos. The nocturnal
Festival of Light features
floats decorated with colorful
Christmas lights. The Parade
of Lights passes from
Parque Sabana to downtown
via Paseo Coln. Fireworks
light up the night sky.
Carnaval Nacional
Floats depicting Costa Rican fauna, Fiesta de la Luz, San Jos (Dec 27), San Jos. Locals
don costumes and dance in
DECEMBER the streets to live music. A
DRY SEASON competition of brightly
Fiesta de los Negritos decorated floats is the
The cooler, drier months (Dec 8), Boruca. The indige- highlight of the procession.
are ideal for beach holidays, nous Boruca peoples cele-
especially in Guanacaste and brate their traditions with
Northern Nicoya, where it costumed dancing and drum
hardly rains. Town squares and flute music.
are ablaze with jacaranda Fiesta de la Yegita (Dec
and flame-of-the-forest. With 12), Nicoya. The Festival of
coastal waters in the south at the Little Mare recalls a
their clearest, scuba diving is Chorotega legend and blends
excellent. Wildlife viewing Indian and Catholic rituals.
is also at its best, with decid- Villagers carry an image of
uous trees dropping their La Virgen de Guadalupe in
leaves. Dirt roads with river procession, and there are
fordings are more easily corridas de toros (bull runs),
passed, although off-road as well as fireworks and
driving can kick up billow- concerts (see p142).
ing clouds of dust. However, Los Posadas (Dec 15).
this is peak season through- Before Christmas, carolers
out the nation, with high go house to house by night
prices and fully booked and are rewarded with food People dressed as devils at the
hotels and car rentals. and refreshments. Fiesta de los Diablitos
C O S T A R I C A T H R O U G H T H E Y E A R 35
of the year, with processions

nationwide, notably in Cartago
and San Joaqun de Flores
near Heredia. Costumed
citizens reenact Christs
crucifixion in passion plays.
APRIL
Da de Juan Santamara
(Apr 11), Alajuela. Marching
bands, a beauty pageant,
and topes are part of the
celebrations honoring the
young national hero who
was killed fighting against
Carretas (oxcarts) gather for the Da del Boyero celebrations, Escaz William Walker in the War
of 1856 (see p45).
Fiesta de Zapote (late Dec), Good Neighbors Jazz Festival Feria del Ganado (mid-Apr),
Zapote. Citizens flock to this (mid-Feb), Manuel Antonio. Ciudad Quesada. The
suburb of San Jos for the Jazz ensembles perform at nations largest cattle fair
fairground, fireworks, topes hotels and other venues also features a horse parade
and rodeos. through the area. and corridas de toros.
Fiesta de los Diablitos (Dec Carnaval de Puntarenas Feria de Orquideas (late
31Jan 2), Buenos Aires and (last week of Feb). Parade Apr), San Jos. Hosted in
Boruca. Men dressed as devils floats, street fairs, music, the Museo Nacional, this
rush through the two villages and dancing enliven this orchid festival exhibits
in the Boruca Indian commu- coastal city for a week. prize specimens, including
nitys reenactment of battles some for sale.
between their forebears and MARCH Romera Virgen de la
the Spanish (see p184). Candelaria (3rd Sun),
Da del Boyero (2nd Sun), Ujarrs. A pilgrimage from
JANUARY San Antonio de Escaz. A Paraiso to Ujarrs terminates
parade of colorfully deco- with games and celebrations
Fiesta de Palmares (first rated traditional oxcarts to honor the supposed
two weeks of Jan), Palmares honors the boyero (oxcart miracle attributed to the
(near Alajuela). Concerts, driver). The streets come Holy Virgin that saved
rodeos, fireworks, and music alive with music and dance. the town of Ujarrs from
highlight this festival, which International Festival of the pirate invasion in 1666
also features fairgrounds and Arts (2nd week), San Jos. (see p100).
sporting events. Theaters and other venues Semana Universidad (last
Fiesta Patronal de Santo bustle with live theater, week), San Jos. The campus
Cristo (mid-Jan), Santa dance performances, music of the University of Costa
Cruz. Rodeos, folk dancing, concerts, visual art exhibits, Rica is the setting for week-
street festivities, and a and conferences. long free activities, including
parade of carretas (oxcarts) Semana Santa (Mar or Apr). open-air art shows, concerts,
mark this two-day celebration Easter Week is the most and the crowning of the
honoring Santo Cristo de important holiday celebration university queen.
Esquipulas.
Festival de las Mulas
(late Jan), Playas Esterillos
(near Jac). Popular festival
with mule races on the
beach, as well as a crafts
fair, corridas de toros, and
music and dance.
FEBRUARY
Expo Perez Zeledn (early

Feb), San Isidro de El
General. Cattle fair and
orchid show, also featuring
topes, rodeo, beauty contests,
carousels, and displays of
agricultural machinery. The San Jos Symphony performing at a music festival
JULY
WET SEASON
Festival de la Virgen del
The onset of the rains Mar (mid-Jul), Puntarenas.
marks the beginning of the The Sea Festival honors
off-season. Mountainous Carmen, Virgin of the Sea,
parts are prone to landslides, with religious processions,
and many roads are washed a carnival, fireworks, and
out. Nonetheless, mornings a boating regatta.
are typically sunny, while Da de la Anexin de
afternoon rains help cool Guanacaste (Jul 25). The
off sometimes stifling days. annexation of Guanacaste by
This is the best time for Costa Rica in 1824 is cele-
surfing in the Pacific, and brated nationwide with music
olive ridley turtles begin and folkloric dancing. Rodeos
their arribadas (see p141). and bullfights are held at
Sportfishing is also at a Liberia and Santa Cruz.
premium, especially in Chorotega Tourist Fair (late
northern Pacific waters. Pilgrims at Cartagos Basilica de Jul), Nicoya. This celebration
Toward the end of the wet Nuestra Seora de los ngeles of traditional Chorotega
season, Costa Rica is at its culture features artisan
lushest, and swollen rivers the patron saint of farmers, displays, indigenous foods,
provide plenty of white- with an oxcart parade and and several educational
water thrills. The Pacific an agricultural fair. activities.
southwest is subject to Corpus Christi (May 29), International Festival
severe thunderstorms in Pacayas and Cartago. The of Music (JulAug).
October and November. two towns hold religious International musicians
parades and church services. perform predominantly
MAY classical music at venues
JUNE around the nation.
Da de los Trabajadores
(May 1). Trade unions Da de San Pedro y San AUGUST
organize marches in major Pablo (Jun 29), San Jos.
cities to honor workers on St. Peter and St. Paul are Da de Nuestra Seora de
Labor Day. honored in religious la Virgen de los ngeles
Fiesta Cvica (early May), celebrations around the city. (Aug 2), Cartago. Costa
Caas. Cowboy traditions Compaa de Lrica Nacional Ricas most important reli-
are displayed at corridas (mid-Junmid-Aug), San gious procession to honor
de toros and topes. Street Jos. The National Lyric its patron saint, La Negrita,
fairs feature folkloric music, Opera Company presents draws the faithful from
dance, and traditional food. a two-month long opera around the nation. The
Da de San Isidro Labrador festival in San Joss sumptu- devout carry crosses or crawl
(May 15), San Isidro de El ously decorated Teatro on their knees to Cartagos
General. A celebration of Mlico Salazar (see p58). famous basilica (see p94).
Recorrido de toros (bullfight) at a fiesta in Parque Nacional Santa Rosa

PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Ao Nuevo (New Years
Day; Jan 1)
Jueves Santo (Easter
Thursday)
Viernes Santo (Good
Friday)
Da de Juan
Santamara (Apr 11)
Da de los Trabajadores
(Labor Day; May 1)
Da de la Anexin de
Guanacaste (Jul 25)
Da de Nuestra Seora
de la Virgen de los
ngeles (Aug 2)
A San Jos parade celebrating Da de la Independencia Da de las Madres
(Mothers Day; Aug 15)
Liberia Blanca Culture Da de la Independencia Da de la
Week (early Aug), Liberia. (Sep 15). Costa Ricas inde- Independencia (Sep 15)
Cowboys come to town, and pendence from Spain in 1821 Da de las Culturas
citizens don traditional attire is celebrated nationwide (Columbus Day; Oct 12)
to honor local traditions with with street festivities, topes, Navidad (Christmas Day)
music, dancing, and food. and school marching bands.
Da de las Madres (Aug 15). Orosi Colonial Tourist Fair
On Mothers Day, everyone (mid-Sep). Cultural events Fiesta del Maz (mid-Oct),
honors their mother, who is and exhibits celebrate the Upala (near Cao Negro).
usually taken out to lunch or regions colonial heritage. Locals craft clothes out of
dinner and serenaded by corn husks and make corn-
hired mariachis. OCTOBER based foods in a traditional
National Adventure celebration of maz (corn).
Tourism Festival (late Aug), Carnaval (2nd week) Puerto Da del Sabanero (Oct 18).
Turrialba. Mountain biking, Limn. Ticos flock to the Topes and celebrations mark
whitewater rafting, and coast for a vibrant, no-holds- Cowboys Day. Liberia and
kayaking are among the barred, Caribbean-style Parque Nacional Santa Rosa
activities highlighted. Mardi Gras with parade have the most lively festivities.
Da de San Ramn (Aug 31), floats, street fairs, live reggae
San Ramn (near Alajuela). and calypso music, and NOVEMBER
The local patron saint is beauty pageants (see p165).
carried in procession. Tico Da de las Culturas (Oct 12). Das de Todos Santos
culture is celebrated with Columbuss discovery of (Nov 2). All Souls Day is
marimba music, topes, pro- America is celebrated with celebrated nationwide with
cessions, and regional dishes. cultural events throughout church processions. Families
Semana Afro-Costarricense the nation, notably in Puerto visit cemeteries to remember
(Aug or Sep), Puerto Limn Limn; the citys Carnaval loved ones and lay marigolds
and San Jos. This week- culminates on this day. and other flowers on graves.
long festival celebrates Afro- La Ruta de los
Costa Rican culture. Activities Conquistadores (mid-Nov).
range from art shows and This week-long, coast-to-
lectures to musical perfor- coast mountain bike champi-
mances and beauty pageants. onship, which aims to retrace
the route of the Spanish
SEPTEMBER conquerors across Costa
Rica, is considered one of
Correo de la Candela de the worlds most challenging.
Independencia (Sep 14). Feria Agroecoturstica (mid-
Runners carrying a Freedom Nov), Atenas (near Alajuela).
Torch from Guatemala travel Log-felling contests, tractor
from town to town, arriving tours, horseback rides, and
in Cartago at 6pm, when the an orchid show at the
entire nation sings the Escuela de Ganadera reserve.
national anthem. At night, Fiesta de las Carretas (late
children carry home-made Nov), San Jos. Oxcarts are
lanterns in procession A band at Puerto Limns famous paraded from Parque Sabana
throughout the country. Caribbean-style Carnaval and along Paseo Coln.
The Climate of Costa Rica LA FORTUNA

Most of Costa Rica experiences distinct dry
(DecemberApril) and wet (MayNovember) seasons, 31/87 30/85 30/85
28/83
C/F
which Ticos call verano (summer) and invierno 21/70 22/71 21/70 20/68
(winter). There are dozens of regional microclimates:
San Jos and the meseta central (central plateau) are
delightfully warm year-round; the eastern lowlands
are swept by rain-laden Caribbean breezes; the
5 3 3 5
southern Pacific coast has high precipitation; and in hrs hrs hrs hrs
the dry season temperatures regularly rise above 35 C 3.7 19.9 17 7.5
(94 F) in the parched northwest. Temperatures are in in in in
affected by the varying altitudes, and can drop to below month Apr Jul Oct Jan
0 C (32 F) on mountain summits. However, the sun
is strong at all times of the year across Costa Rica,
with sunrise at about 6am and sunset at 6pm.
b
-PT
High windsstrike Guanacaste and $IJMFT
Northern Nicoya in the wet season.
LIBERIA -JCFSJB
b
Average daily
36/96
32/89 31/87 33/91 maximum
C/F temperature -B'PSUVOB b
23/73 23/73 22/71 21/69 Average daily

minimum
5BNBSJOEP .POUFWFSEF
temperature b
b
Average daily
9 6 5 9 hours of sunshine
hrs hrs hrs hrs
11.2 0.04
1VOUBSFOBT
0.9 5.3 Average monthly b
in in in in rainfall
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
CLIMATE ZONES .POUF[VNB

b
Warm dry: Rainfall in summer.

Drought in places.
Warm humid: Year-round

The Ro Tempisque 1" $ * ' * $
rainfall, often torrential. basin is the driest part of
Costa Rica, with an 0$&"/
Mild: High-elevation terrain. average of only 18 inches
The western
Springlike conditions year-round. (45 cm) of rain annually.
cordilleras bask
in
Cool humid: East-facing year-round sunshine.
mountain slopes with heavy rain.
Cool dry: West-facing

mountain slopes in rain shadow.
Hot humid: Extreme rainfall. MONTEVERDE

Frequent thunderstorms.
C/F
ISLA DEL COCO 22/71 21/69 21/69
20/68
#BIJB$IBUIBN 13/55 14/57 14/57 12/53
#BIJB8BGFS
5 3 3 5
hrs hrs hrs hrs
4.8 14 16.8 6.3
in in in in
month Apr Jul Oct Jan

#BIJB:HMFTJBT 0 km 3
0 miles 3
GRECIA SAN JOS PN CORCOVADO
31/87 33/91 32/89 32/89 33/91

C/F 28/82 27/80 29/84 C/F C/F
26/78 25/77 25/77
23/73 23/73 22/71 22/71 22/71
18/64 18/64 18/64 17/62
16/60 17/62 16/60 15/59
7 5 4 8 5 4 5 8 6 3 3 7
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
2.7 7.6 12.8 0.3 1.7 8.5 13 0.4 11 19 27.6 6.2
in in in in in in in in in in in in
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
The Caribbean coast PUERTO LIMN

receives rainfall almost
throughout the year. 31/87 31/87 31/87 31/87
C/F
22/71 22/71 22/71
20/68
1VFSUP7JFKP
EF4BSBQJRV
$JVEBE b
2VFTBEB 6 4 5 5
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10.9 16.8 8.1 12.5
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(SFDJB month Apr Jul Oct Jan

b
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The eastern
cordilleras are
frequently
The lowest enveloped in
temperatures in clouds.
Costa Rica are atop
Cerro Chirrip.
QUEPOS GOLFITO
32/89 31/87 30/86 31/87 33/91 32/89 32/89 33/91

C/F C/F
22/71 21/69 22/71 21/69 b (PMmUP 23/73 22/71 22/71 22/71
b $PSDPWBEP
7 4 4 8 6 4 3 7
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
6.5 18 25.3 2.8 12.2 20 26.8 6.2
in in in in The Peninsula de Osa is deluged in in in in
by an annual average of almost
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
24 ft (8 m) of rainfall.
I N T R O D U C I N G C O S T A R I C A 41
THE HISTORY OF COSTA RICA
C
ontemporary Costa Rica has been shaped by a relatively
benign history devoid of the great clash between pre-
Columbian and Spanish cultures that characterized the
formative period of neighboring nations. Following the colonial era,
Costa Rica evolved stable democratic institutions that permitted
sustained economic development. The nations declaration of
neutrality in 1948 continues to help forge its identity today.
When Christopher Columbus lowlands were matriarchal

landed off the coast of Central and, like most other groups,
America in 1502, the region used shamans to assist in the
had a history that went back fertility rites that dominated
10 millennia. The indigenous religious belief. The agricultur-
peoples who inhabited the alist Chorotega of the north-
thickly forested and rugged west lowlands were the most
terrain were relatively isolated advanced. They traded with
from the more advanced and Meso-America, were famed for
densely populated imperial Pre-Columbian their elaborate jade ornamen-
cultures of Meso-America to hunter tation, and created a written
the north and the Andes to language and calendar of
the south. They were divided into Mayan origin. Most tribal names
several distinct ethnic groups and were ascribed by the Spanish and
further subdivided into competing often indicated individual caciques.
tribes ruled by caciques (chiefs). Inter-clan warfare was common.
These peoples left no written record. Slaves from neighboring tribes were
The semi-nomadic Chibchas and captured for labor and ceremonial
Diquis, who occupied the southern sacrifice, while women were taken
Pacific shores, were hunters and as concubines. Gold ornamentation
fishermen. They were expert gold- indicated status. High-ranking indi-
smiths as well, and also produced viduals were interred with their
granite spheres of varying sizes for wealth; their slaves were often killed
ceremonial purposes. The highland and buried alongside to serve them
valleys were the domain of the in the afterlife. Each tribe lived com-
Coribic, subsistence agriculturalists munally in large thatched huts, and
skilled at using the lost wax tech- although modest urban settlements
nique to create gold ornaments. have been discovered, principally at
These groups had affinities with the Guayabo on the southern slopes of
Andean cultures, with whom they Volcn Turrialba, nowhere did
traded. The Votos of the northern elaborate temple structures result.
TIMELINE
800 BC Guayabo
10,0008000 BC established on AD 400 1000 Diquis AD 1400
The first known Granite culture produces Guayabo
the slopes of spheres
inhabitants settle Volcn Turrialba granite spheres for mysteriously
the region ceremonial purposes abandoned
15,000 BC 500 BC AD 1 AD 500 AD 1000

1000 BC Olmec 500 BCAD 800
influence extends Jade is crafted into AD 500 Gold AD 800 The
southward from Mexico pendants and begins to Chorotegas arrive
figurines using the replace jade in Nicoya
cord-saw technique
Jade pendant
A detail of a fresco by Diego Rivera (18861957) depicting the Spanish conquest in Central America
THE SPANISH CONQUEST had been charted and Spains

Columbus arrived in Baha de conquest was assured. Many
Cariari, on the Caribbean coast, natives were shipped to work
while on his fourth voyage to the gold and silver mines of Peru
the New World. He spent 17 and Mexico, while thousands
days in the land he called died of smallpox, measles,
veragua (mildew), and his influenza, and other Euro-
descriptions of the gold worn pean diseases that culminated
by the chiefs spelled doom for in a 17th-century pandemic.
the indigenous population. In 1559, Juan de Cavalln
Spanish conquistadors soon Bust of Columbus and founded the settlement of
followed in his wake, driven his son, Puerto Limn Castillo de Garcimuoz,
by the quest for silver and with Spaniards, black slaves,
gold. However, they failed to find any and Indians brought from Guatemala
local source of the precious metals. and Nicaragua. Appointed governor
Colonization was initiated in 1506 in 1562, Juan Vsquez de Coronado
when Ferdinand of Spain dispatched penetrated the fertile Central High-
Diego de Nicuesa to settle and gov- lands and established El Guarco
ern the region. Nicuesas expedition (todays Cartago) as capital of the
north from Panama proved a disaster, region. For the next 250 years Costa
as his troops were decimated by Rica was a neglected colony of Spain,
tropical diseases and guerrilla attacks. virtually forgotten by the governors
In 1522, a second expedition led by of New Spain, based in Mexico.
Gil Gonzlez Davila explored the
Pacific coast, converting the natives THE SUBSISTENCE ERA
and seizing vast quantities of gold. By the 17th century, the relatively
Davila named the region la costa rica small supply of gold had been
(rich coast). Many natives were shipped to Spain, and the country
enslaved under the encomienda sys- had nothing to trade. Settlement was
tem that granted Spaniards
rights to native labor. Villa
Bruselas, inland from todays
Puntarenas, was Spains first
permanent settlement in Costa
Rica, founded by Francisco
Fernndez de Crdoba in
1524. Davilas group and Cr-
dobas township, however,
succumbed to tropical hard-
ships and violent resistance by
the natives. Despite this, by
1543, when the region was
incorporated into the Cap-
taincy-General of Guatemala,
which extended from Yucatn Theodor de Brys (152898) copperplate print depicting gold
to Panama, most lowland areas being seized by Spanish conquistadors
TIMELINE
1502 1655 Spain closes
Columbus 1522 Davila successfully 1559 Philip II issues royal 161160 A great port of Puerto
lands on explores the Pacific coast edict ordering the conversion pandemic kills Limn following
September 18 of the native population thousands pirate raids
1500 1525 1550 1575 1600 1625 1650

1506 Diego de 1542 1563 Governor 1641 Survivors of a
Nicuesa named Encomienda law Coronado founds slave-ship establish a
governor. repealed to little Cartago and explores free community of
Attempts effect; indigenous much of Costa Rica Miskitos
colonization peoples remain Juan Vsquez
in servitude de Coronado
T H E H I S T O R Y O F C O S T A R I C A 43
concentrated in the
central valley of the
interior highlands, where
the absence of a large
indigenous population
and near total neglect
by colonial authorities
forced the Spanish set-
tlers to work their own
land. As a result, most
of the land remained
sparsely developed and
agriculture existed at
barely more than subsis-
tence level. Moreover, A 19th-century etching of Hacienda Santa Rosa, Guanacaste
the mestizo population
(of mixed Spanish and Indian par- autonomous bands of Miskitos
entage) was small and the majority of (a community of mixed-blood Indian
inhabitants were predominantly and African slaves) regularly maraud-
Spanish. Thus, unlike the rigid feudal ed inland settlements.
societies of its neighbors, Costa Rica By the 18th century, exports of
evolved a fairly egalitarian social tobacco and hides to Europe began
structure dominated by the inde- to boost national fortunes. Simple
pendent farmer of meager means. townships of adobe structures devel-
The northwestern regions of Nicoya oped: Heredia (1706); San Jos
and Guanacaste on the Pacific coast (1737); and Alajuela (1782). Immi-
were exceptions. Spanish landowners gration from Europe gathered pace,
established large cattle estates here, and in the 1740s the increased
and exacted harsh tribute and labor demand for labor led to the forced
from Indians and mestizos through resettlement of natives who had fled
the encomienda and repar- enslavement in the initial
timiento systems. The years of colonization and
densely forested Caribbean established communities in
coast, meanwhile, was part the Talamanca Mountains.
of the Spanish Main, the On the whole, far-flung
domain of pirates and Costa Ricas parochial citi-
smugglers, who traded zenry was spared the harsh
precious hardwoods, such taste of monopolistic,
as cocoa and mahogany, bureaucratic colonial rule;
through the small port of lacked an elite social class;
Puerto Limn (it was closed and remained divorced
by the Spanish in 1665 to from the bitter fight for
combat smuggling). All independence from Spain
through the 17th century, that engulfed Central
English buccaneers such America at the end of
as Henry Morgan and Buccaneer, 17th century the 18th century.
1723 1747 Talamanca Indians 1808 Coffee

Volcn Iraz erupts, are forcibly resettled in introduced
destroying Cartago the highlands from Jamaica
1675 1700 1725 1750 1775 1800
1706 Heredia 1737 Villanueva de 1782

founded la Boca del Monte Alajuela
founded. Later founded
renamed San Jos Coffee
beans
THE FORMATIVE YEARS to great resentment, which

OF THE REPUBLIC culminated in the War of
The news that Spain had Leagues (La Guerra de la Liga)
granted independence to the in September 1837, when the
Central American nations on other three townships attacked
September 15, 1821, reached San Jos but were defeated.
Costa Rica a month later. The In 1838, Carrillo declared
country was torn between the General Francisco Costa Ricas independence
four leading townships: the Morazn from the Federation, but was
progressive citizens of San ousted by Morazn, on behalf
Jos and Alajuela favored total inde- of the emergent coffee oligarchy.
pendence, while the conservative Morazn was briefly named head of
leaders of Cartago and Heredia state in 1842, before being executed
preferred to join the newly formed for attempting to conscript Costa
Mexican empire. Although the four Ricans to revive the Federation.
city councils met and drafted a con-
stitution, the Pacto de Concordia, the THE COFFEE ERA
discord erupted into a brief civil war Costa Ricas smallholding farmers
in which the progressives triumphed. benefitted immensely from Europes
Costa Rica became a soverign state of taste for coffee. Thousands of acres
the short-lived Federation of Central were planted, while income from the
America, formed by Guatemalan exports of grano de oro (golden
General Francisco Morazn. Under a grain) funded the construction of fine
law called the Ley de Ambulancia, edifices in San Jos. This economic
the capital was to rotate between the prosperity went hand in hand with a
four cities every four years. rare period of aggression, starting in
Costa Ricas independence from 1856 when William Walker, a
Spain coincided with a boom in Tennessean adventurer, invaded
coffee production and the evolution Guanacaste. President Juan Rafael
of a monied middle-
class dedicated to public
education and a liberal
democracy unique on
the isthmus. Juan Mora
Fernndez was elected
the first head of state in
1824. In 1835, Braulio
Carrillo came to power.
A liberal autocrat, he set
up legal codes, as well
as promoting a central-
ized administration in
San Jos and large-scale
coffee production. San
Joss growing promi-
nence under Carrillo led Costa Rican workers picking ripe coffee berries, woodcut, 1880
TIMELINE
1821 The 1830s 18357 Ley de Ambulancia
Central Coffee establishes rotating capitals 1856 William President Juan
American boom Walker invades Rafael Mora
nations gain 1837 San Jos becomes Costa Rica
permanent capital (181460)
independence
1820 1830 1840 1850 1860 1870
1824 Guanacaste secedes 1849 Cafetaleros elevate
from Nicaragua to join Juan Rafael Mora to
Costa Rica 1838 Costa Rica power, initiating political 1869 General Toms
withdraws from the dominance of coffee Guardia establishes
1823 Federation of Central Federation, declares barons compulsory, free
America proclaimed. independence education for all
Civil war
Mora raised a makeshift

army that repulsed
Walker but also created
a group of ambitious,
self-styled generals who
from then on meddled in
politics at the behest of
their cafetalero (coffee
baron) patrons. The
most significant was
General Toms Guardia,
who seized power in
1870. Guardia proved a Bas-relief in San Joss Museo de Arte Costarricense
progressive reformer,
who promoted the construction of u p a b a n a n a p l a n t a t i o n , a n d
the Atlantic Railroad, which linked eventually established the influential
the highlands with Puerto Limn. The United Fruit Company.
prodigious feat of hewing a railroad By the end of the 19th century,
through the forested, rain-sodden, Costa Rica had evolved into a
mountainous terrain was achieved by modern nation-state in which its
New York-born entrepreneur Minor citizens were active participants.
Cooper Keith (18481929). Part of his When Ber nardo Soto lost the
terms for the project was a 3,100-sq- presidential election in 1889 and
mile (8,050-sq-km) land lease in the refused to step down, street demon-
Caribbean lowlands, on which he set strations forced his resignation.
Similarly, students and women
WILLIAM WALKER toppled war minister Federico Tinoco
In 1860, when he was executed, Walker Granados, who staged a coup in
was only 36. He was born in Nashville, 1917. However, the inter-war years
and graduated as a doctor before starting were beset with labor unrest and
to pursue a dream of extending slavery social problems, which were exacer-
all over the Americas. In 1855, he rallied bated by a widening rift between the
mercenaries and, with the blessing of
President James Buchanan, invaded
wealthy elite and impoverished
Nicaragua to establish a pro-US underclass. Although the 194044
government. He went further, administration of President Rafael
though, and proclaimed him- Angel Caldern established several
self president. A year later he bold social reforms, including a
unsuccessfully attacked social security system, tensions rose
Costa Rica. Walker fled to
New York, but returned to as the country became increasingly
Central America in 1857, polarized. The Caldern admin-
still filled with ambition. istration formed an anti-Nazi alliance
After a brief time in jail, he with the Catholic Church and the
met his fate in front of a Communist Party. This pitted itself
Honduran firing squad.
against an equally unlikely anti-
William Walker (182460) Calderonista alliance of intellectuals,
labor activists, and the rural elite.
1890 Atlantic 1917 1925 Sigatoka 194044 Caldern

Railroad Federico disease sponsors social
completed Tinoco devastates reforms and founds
Granados banana fields the University of
Atlantic Railroad seizes power Costa Rica
1880 1890 1900 1910 1920 1930 1940
1889 1930s United Fruit Company expands its 1942 A German
Liberal 1897 A coffee tax political and economic influence U-boat sinks a
constitution finances construction Costa Rican
drafted of the Teatro Nacional cargo vessel on
in San Jos 1934 Workers win the right July 2, leading to
to unionize anti-German riots
THE 1948 CIVIL WAR

In 1944, Teodoro Picado succeeded
fellow party member Caldern after a
violent and fraudulent election.
Caldern ran for office four years
later, but was defeated by a jour-
nalist, Otilio Ulate Blanco. Caldern
objected, and the building housing
the ballots was set ablaze by
unknown arsonists. The Calderonista-
dominated Congress annulled the
election, and Ulate was arrested. This
explosive situation paved the way for
Jos Don Pepe Figueres, a radical
utopian socialist. On March 11, 1948,
Figueres declared the War of National
Liberation to purify national politics. President Jos Figueres leading the parade of
The badly trained and poorly victorious civilian troops, San Jos, 1949
equipped government forces were no
match for Figueres highly motivated of the welfare state. Costa Ricas
guerrillas and, after 44 days of fierce stability was severely threatened,
fighting that claimed about 2,000 however, by developments in Nicara-
lives, the government was toppled. gua, where on July 19, 1979, the
Figueres entered San Jos in Somoza regime was toppled by
triumph on March 29, and established left-wing Sandinistas. Somozas right-
the Second Republic. He national- wing supporters, the Contras, set up
ized the banking system and enacted clandestine bases in Costa Rica
enlightened social reforms. In 1949, and were supported by the CIA in
Figueres forced congressional their attempts to overthrow the
passage of a new constitution that Sandinistas. These activities
disbanded the army, declared Costa turned the northern border into
Rica neutral, and extended universal a war zone. Meanwhile, Costa
suffrage to the Afro-Caribbean popu- Ricas banana and coffee crops
lation. Still, key opponents and failed, while a transfer of capital
communists were executed in a out of the country led to an
bid to further consolidate his economic freefall. The Reagan
power. After 18 months as administration pressured Presi-
provisional president, Figueres dent Luis Alberto Monge to
handed the reins of govern- show support for the Nicara-
ment to Ulate. guan right-wing paramilitary
operations on Costa Rican soil
YEARS OF PROSPERITY in exchange for economic aid.
AND TERROR Costa Ricas neutrality was
The 1950s, 60s, and 70s wit- dangerously compromised.
nessed accelerating prosperity Revolutionary In 1986, Figueres proteg
along with the rapid expansion soldier Oscar Arias Snchez became
TIMELINE
1948 The Second 1949 New constitution adopted; Figueres 1963 Volcn Iraz erupts during
Republic later hands power to the winner of the President John F. Kennedys visit
established 1948 election
1945 1950 1955 1960 1965 1970 1975

1955 Nicaragua invades Costa Rica
but is repulsed at Santa Rosa
1948 Figueres 1970s
launches War 1950s Pan-American Highway Expansion of
of National (Carretera Interamericana) connects Social security social security
Liberation Nicaragua and Panama symbol system
president of Costa Rica. fate, Caldern was

The youthful leader replaced in 1994 by
protested against the Jos Mara Figueres,
activities of the US- son of Don Pepe,
backed Contras, and the elder Calderns
negotiated a peaceful political nemesis.
resolution of regional
conflicts. As a result, in THE ENVIRONMENTAL
August 1987, leaders of ERA
five Central American The 1980s had seen the
nations signed a treaty beginning of a huge
committing to free tourism boom, which
elections and a cessa- was fueled by Costa
tion of violence. Arias Ricas stewardship of its
was awarded the Nobel natural resources. The
Peace Prize for his role Pedestrians crossing Avenida 2, government committed
as mediator. He was San Jos itself to environ-
succeeded in 1990 by mental protection, but
Rafael Angel Caldern, son of the economic scandals, anti-government
great reformer. The conservative demonstrations, and a series of
Caldern administration introduced natural disasters bedeviled the admin-
reforms to alleviate the countrys istrations of Figueres (19948),
international debt. Austerity measures Miguel Angel Rodrguez (19982002),
helped, to some extent, to regenerate and Abel Pacheco de la Espriella
the economy. In a curious twist of (20026). In 2004, Rafael Angel
Caldern and Miguel Angel
JOSE DON PEPE FIGUERES Rodrguez were arrested on charges
Figueres, born on September of corruption. (In October 2009
25, 1906, to Catalan immi- Caldern was sentenced to five years
grant parents, was largely in prison.) Meanwhile, in 2004, Jos
self-educated. He studied in Mara Figueres was forced to resign
the USA in the 1920s, and as chairman of the World Economic
returned to Costa Rica
inspired by utopian ideals.
Forum for receiving kickbacks, but
After the 1942 anti-German he refuses to return to Costa Rica
Don Pepe
riots, Don Pepe denounced from his home in Switzerland to face
(190690) the Caldern government in charges of corruption. However,
a radio address, during none of this has slowed the develop-
which he was arrested and subsequently ment of Costa Ricas ecotourism,
exiled to Mexico. On his return in 1944,
he set up a guerrilla training camp at La and the country has become a
Lucha Sin Fin (The Endless Struggle), a popular destination for outdoor
farm high in the mountains south of San travelers. Oscar Arias Snchez
Jos, before launching the War of successfully lobbied for a reversal
National Liberation. He founded the of a law preventing former presidents
Partido de Liberacin Nacional and was
elected to two terms as president (19537 from running for office again, and in
and 197074). He died on June 8, 1990. 2006 he became the first ex-president
to be elected to a second term.
1980s Costa Rica-based 1991 Earthquake causes

Contras destabilize the damage on April 22 2003 Supreme 2009 Large earth-
country Court rules that quake devastates
1994 Banco Anglo Costarricense former presidents Pos region
Oscar Arias declares bankruptcy may be re-elected
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010
1987 Arias wins
Nobel Peace Prize 1990s Large-scale immigration 2000 Attempts to 2007 Costa Rica
strains the social system. Drug privatize electricity joins the Central
1981 Costa Rica trafficking accelerates. Costa and telecommuni- America Free
defaults on Rica established as a world- cations generate Trade Area
international loans leader in ecotourism civil unrest (CAFTA)
COSTA RICA
AREA BY AREA
COSTA RICA AT A GLANCE 5051

SAN JOS 5279
THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS 80105
THE CENTRAL PACIFIC AND
SOUTHERN NICOYA 106119
GUANACASTE AND NORTHERN NICOYA
120143
THE NORTHERN ZONE 144159
THE CARIBBEAN 160173
THE SOUTHERN ZONE 174193
50 C O S T A R I C A A R E A B Y A R E A
Costa Rica at a Glance

Brimming with natural wonders, Costa Ricas incredibly
diverse terrain offers lush rain- and cloud forests that
host an array of colorful fauna, craggy mountains,
smoke-spewing volcanoes, and stunning beaches
Parque Nacional Santa
in every shade from gold to taupe to black. Rosa (see pp1345)
Wildlife and adventure activities abound,
ranging from canopy tours and
turtle-watching to scuba diving and
whitewater rafting. It is best to con-
centrate on the national parks and
other natural attractions; very few THE NORTHERN ZONE
towns are of interest. This guide (see pp14459)
divides the country into seven regions;
each area is color-coded as shown here.
GUANACASTE AND
NORTHERN NICOYA
(see pp12043)
Parque Nacional
Volcn Arenal (see p149)
features Costa Ricas most active
volcano. It forms a dramatic THE CENTRAL PACIFIC
backdrop for hiking, canopy AND SOUTHERN NICOYA
(see pp10619)
tours, horseback riding, and
soaks in thermal hot springs.
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Monteverde (see pp1248)

is famous for its cloud forest
reserves, which draw birders
eager for a sighting of
resplendent quetzals.
ISLA DEL COCO 0 km 2
0 miles 2
Isla del Coco (see p193), off the southwest

coast, is remote and rugged. Hammerhead
and whale sharks draw scuba divers.
Farmland in a valley in the province of Alajuela, in the Central Highlands

C O S T A R I C A A T A G L A N C E 51
Parque Nacional Volcn Pos

(see p90) is popular with Costa Ricans,
who drive to the rim to peer into the
crater of this smoldering volcano. On
clear days the views are magnificent.
THE CARIBBEAN
(see pp16073) Parque Nacional Tortuguero (see
THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
(See pp80105) p167), a pristine rainforest habitat,
can be explored by boat along
canals that offer excellent wildlife
SAN JOS viewing. Green turtles nest on
(see pp5279)
the seemingly endless beach.
THE SOUTHERN ZONE

(see pp17493)
Teatro Nacional (see

Parque Nacional pp6061) is San Joss
Corcovado (see p191) major architectural
draw. This bustling
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio and amorphous citys
(see pp11819) combines coral reefs, attractions also
white-sand beaches, and lush forests include museums
full of wildlife that is easily spotted honoring pre-
while hiking well-maintained trails. Columbian culture.
C O S T A R I C A A R E A B Y A R E A 53
SAN JOS
N
estled amid craggy peaks, the capital city enjoys a splendid
setting and idyllic weather. Its magnificent Teatro Nacional
and outstanding museums add to San Joss attractions. The
citys strongest draw, however, is its location in the heart of Costa
Rica, which is ideal for hub-and-spoke touring. For many visitors,
San Jos is their first experience of the country, providing an
intriguing introduction to the pleasures that await farther afield.
Affectionately called chepe war, San Jos was named capital
(the local nickname for and quickly eclipsed other
anyone named Jos) by its cities as prominent cafe-
inhabitants, San Jos is taleros (coffee barons)
perched at an elevation of imported skilled Euro-
3,800 ft (1,150 m), with the Pos, pean artisans to beautify
Barva, and Iraz Volcanoes rising the city with fine structures.
gracefully over the city to the north, Since the 1960s, high-rise
and the rugged Talamanca Moun- buildings and sprawling slum barrios
tains to the south. Temperatures are (neighborhoods) have changed the
a springlike 25C (76F) year-round, profile of this city of one-third of a
and the air is crisp and clear thanks million people. Still, San Jos has its
to near-constant breezes. own charm. The main tourist sights,
Founded in 1737, San Jos grew including the Teatro Nacional
very slowly through its first 100 (National Theater), the gold and jade
years. Its creation on the eve of the museums, and numerous plazas, are
coffee boom in the heart of coffee centered around the city core, within
country, however, was advantageous. walking distance of one another.
By 1823, the town had grown to Everywhere, traffic squeezes tight at
challenge Cartago the then capital rush hour, when Costa Rican civility
for supremacy. Following a brief civil gives way to dog-eat-dog driving.
Varieties of fruit arranged temptingly in stalls at the Mercado Central
Statue in the lavishly decorated foyer of San Joss Teatro Nacional

Exploring San Jos

Downtown San Jos features the citys top places
of interest. The dazzling Teatro Nacional on
Avenida 2, graced by Baroque and Neoclassical
architecture, is San Joss most remarkable building.
The nearby Museo del Oro Precolombino, as well
as the Museo de Jade Fidel Tristn Castro and the
Museo Nacional in the east all of which display
pre-Columbian artifacts are also major attractions.
Another must-see is the Centro Costarricense de
Ciencias y Cultura, to the northwest, with its superb
rotating art exhibitions. Busts of prominent historical
figures dot Parque Espaa and Parque Nacional. The
main historic quarter, Barrio Amn, boasts fine colo-
nial structures along Avenida 9, while the suburb of
Escaz offers excellent dining and a lively nightlife. A quiet, tree-lined street in a
residential locality of San Jos
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
AVENIDA
22
20
AVENIDA 11
CALLE
CALLE
AVENIDA 7
18
AVENIDA 5
CALLE
A VEN ID A L A S A MR AVE NIDA
5
IC A S
CALLE 26
36
24
34
22
40
38
32
20
30
28
LLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CA
CALLE
HUNGRIA LIBRE
Ticabus A V E N I
DA 3
AVENIDA Terminal
1
Coca Cola
PASEO CO Bus Terminal
LN
PA S EO C O
LN
AVENIDA
2
40
AVENIDA Hospital Nacional

38
2
36
34
Gimnasio de Nios
32
30
AVENID
C AL L E
28
Nacional
26
A 4 Hospital
C A LLE
24
22
CAL LE
20
CALL E
CALL E
San Juan
CA LLE
AVENIDA
4
CA LL E
AUTOPISTA PR de Dos
CA LLE
CALLE
CA LLE
SPERO FERN
CALLE
AVENIDA
NDEZ 6
ROUTE 1 AV
EN
AVENIDA
6 16
67 IDA Hospital
C AL LE
10 Blanco Cervantes
AVENIDA 8
AVENIDA 8
AV
EN
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE IDA
10
Museums and Theaters Teatro Mlico Salazar 1

Centro Costarricense de Teatro Nacional pp6061 3
Ciencias y Cultura pp723 i Parque Espaa 9
Centro Nacional de la Historic Buildings
Parque Morazn 7
Cultura w Antigua Estacin Ferrocarril
Parque Nacional t
Museo de Arte al Atlntico y
Parque Sabana o
Costarricense p Asamblea Legislativa e
Museo de Ciencias Naturales Catedral Metropolitana 2
Public Buildings
La Salle a Edificio Correos 6
Universidad de Costa Rica u
Museo de Jade Fidel Tristn Edificio Metlico 8
Castro 0 Markets and Neighborhoods
Museo del Oro Precolombino Parks and Theme Parks Barrio Amn q
pp623 4 Parque Diversiones Escaz d
Museo Nacional r (Pueblo Antiguo) s Mercado Central 5
For additional map symbols see back flap

S A N J O S 55
GREATER SAN JOS

32
b
Heredia
1 San
Juan b Juan
Santamara
International
Airport Tobias Bolaos
Domestic Airport
27
San
Pedro
b
121 SAN JOS 2
b Coln
39
b
Alajuelita b
Desamparados
0 km 5
105
Aserr b
0 miles 5
KEY
Area of the main map
SEE ALSO
Getting ready for some angling at the
man-made lake in Parque Sabana Where to Stay pp2003
UTE 1 Where to Eat pp2246
RO 0 8
ENTRAL
13
08
TE 1
ROU
16
BA R R IO
BARRIO PASA 4
T OURo N ON
CALLE
CALLE C
C A LLE
DE LA VAC A BA R R IO
AVE
NID
rr
Ro T
e
A
s
LA IZA A V E 13 PARQUE
14
12
AVEN ZOOLGICA AV
10
IDA
8
AVEN 9 Bishop's NID SIMN BOLVAR EN

IDA A 11 ID
7 Castle A
E 3 BIS
CALLE
Casa 11
CALLE
AV
CALLE
11
3
15
B ARRI O
AV EN Verde AVENIDA EN
IDA
C AL LE
11
C AL L E
ID
13
C A L LE
7 A
CALL E
Hotel Don
E
ARANJ U EZ
9
CENTRAL
LL
21
CA LL
CALLE
Carlos
A
C
17
6
AVEN
4
19
7
IDA Casa
E
2
5
LLE
LE
LL
Legacon de
LLE
Amarilla Hospital
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE 16
AV E N
CALLE 12
CALLE
CA
CALLE
AVEN
CAL
Mexico
CALLE 10
Mercado IDA Caldern

CA
CA
IDA 7
Borbn 5 AVENID
CALLE
A Guardia
AVENIDA Radiogrfica 7
3
Costarricense Biblioteca
Banco Nacional Nacional
de Costa Rica Iglesia AV EN IDA
AVENIDA 3
C A L L E 15
1 El Carmen
7
PLAZA
Banco Tribunal Supremo
23
BARRIO
LOS de Elecciones
CALLE
CALLE
PRESENTES Central PLAZA DE

AV E NI D A LA CULTURA AV E N I DA
MER CE D
E
CE N TR AL 1
Banco de
LL
JIMNEZ
Gran
11
19
AVENID Costa Rica

CA
Iglesia
21
PARQUE A 2 Hotel AVE NI DA

LA MERCED La Merced CE NT RA L
Teatro
CALLE
PA R Q U E
CALLE 12
10
Variedades
CALLE 14
CALLE
CENTRAL
CALLE
8
PLAZA DE LA
BULEVAR RICARDO
La
6
CALLE 2
AVENID DEMOCRACA
CALLE
A
CALLE 1
4 Caja
CALLE 3
CAL LE
E 5
BA R R IO
CAL L E
CA L L E 1 5
CALL
AVENI
DA 6
Iglesia La
Soledad S OL E DA D
AVENIDA 6
KEY
Sight/place of interest
International airport
Domestic airport
Bus station GETTING AROUND

The main sights, concentrated in downtown San Jos, are
Tourist information best explored on foot. To explore farther afield, take a taxi
Parking this is a good way of getting around the warren of narrow,
congested, one-way streets. Alternatively, you can rent a car,
Post office but do be prepared for the aggressive driving style of Costa
Hospital Ricans (see p271). Jose Santamara International Airport and
Tobias Bolaos domestic airport are located 10 miles (17 km)
Church northwest and 4 miles (6 km) west of downtown respectively.
Expressway The international airport is well-connected by airport taxis
and buses to the city center; the domestic airport is served
Pedestrian street by taxis. For more details, see pages 2645 and 27071.
Street-by-Street: San Jos Center

Laid out in a grid of narrow, heavily trafficked one-
way streets, San Joss tightly condensed core contains
the citys most significant sights. The main artery is
the broad Avenida 2, which is thronged with honking
taxis and buses threading past tree-shaded Parque
Central. Running parallel to it and to the north is the
Avenida Central, a pedestrian precinct lined with
department stores, specialist shops, and places to eat.
At the heart of this stroll-and-shop area lies the small
concrete Plaza de la Cultura, which hums with activity
all day it is a popular meeting place for young
people and is packed with hawkers as well as
musicians and other entertainers.
Teatro Mlico Salazar
Dating from the 1920s,
this theater has a
Neoclassical
Avenida 2 faade and
This bustling avenue a simple
is lined with impor- interior 1
tant buildings,
"
including banks,
(
$*
between Calles 1

and 3. Traffic flows

""
eastward on this

""
four lane-wide

avenue, which
,
$
slopes downhill

east of Calle 3.

"
(
$*

""

""

Bronze statue of
a street cleaner
Parque Central Statue of Pope

Laid out in 1885 and shaded by palms and John Paul II, made

guanacaste trees, the compact central plaza from marble by

,
$
has an unusual bandstand, which is sup- Jimnez Deredia.

ported by arches. Beneath it is the childrens La Cura (The

library, Biblioteca Carmen Lyra. Archbishops
Palace)
. Catedral STAR SIGHTS

Metropolitana . Catedral
The blue-domed
Metropolitana
Metropolitan
Cathedral, built in . Museo del Oro
1871 in a simple Precolombino
Greek Orthodox
style, features an . Teatro Nacional
elaborate altar 2
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp2003 and pp2246
S A N J O S 57
Plaza de la Cultura
Created between 1975 and 1983, this is
San Joss main hub of social activity, . Teatro Nacional
despite its relatively austere layout. The capitals finest architectural gem, the
National Theater is renowned for its ceiling,
The Gran Hotel, designed which depicts a coffee harvest, and for its
by architect Juan Joaqun lavish tri-level, 1,040-seat auditorium. The
Jimnez in 1930, is a city
landmark (see p200).
theater was built in the early 1890s 3
Clock
tower

,
$

$

,
*(
$

"

,
$

. Museo del Oro

Precolombino

$
A subterranean modern
*(
structure, the Museum of

"
Pre-Columbian Gold
houses a superb collec-
tion of ancient gold
adornments, as well as

,
the National Coin

$

Collection 4

""

ICT office
""

Teatro Variedades was

founded in 1891. Today
"" it functions as a cinema.

Parque Mora Fernndez is

a palm-shaded plaza, lively
with marimba music.
0 meters 100
Statue of

0 yards 100
,
Juan Mora
$

Fernndez,

La Caja KEY

Costa Ricas (Social Security

first president. Suggested route
Building)
base atop a marble plinth

and supports a wooden
figure of Christ and cherubs.
To the left of the main altar
is the Capilla del Santsimo
(Chapel of the Holy Sacra-
ment), which has walls and
ceilings decorated with
wooden quadrants painted
with floral motifs. The short
gallery that leads to the
chapel contains a glass-
and-gilt coffin with a naked
statue of Christ draped with
The horseshoe-shaped auditorium of Teatro Mlico Salazar a sash in the colors of the
Costa Rican flag.
Teatro Mlico had been destroyed by an To the south of the cathe-
earthquake in 1820. Designed dral is La Cura (The Palace
Salazar 1 by Eusebio Rodrguez, the of the Archbishop), built in
austere-looking structure 1887. This two-story structure
Map 1 C4. Calle Central and Ave 2. combines Greek Orthodox, has been remodeled, and is
Tel 2233-5172. @ # 8am4pm Neoclassical, and closed to the public.
MonFri. 8 by appointment. - Baroque styles. Its A small garden in
www.teatromelico.go.cr linear faade is front features a
supported by an life-size bronze
One of the citys landmarks, arcade of Doric statue of Mon-
this theater was built in 1928 columns and seor Bernardo
as the Teatro Ravents, and topped by a Augusto Thiel
was renamed in 1986 after Neoclassical Hoffman
Manuel Mlico Salazar pediment with Fountain on (18501901),
Ziga (18871950), a cele- steeples on each Avenida Central the German-born
brated Costa Rican tenor. side. Inside, a vaulted second archbishop of
Designed by architect Jos ceiling runs the length of the Costa Rica. Hoffman lies buried
Fabio Garnier, it has a nave, supported by two rows in the crypt of the cathedral,
Neoclassical faade adorned of fluted columns. In a glass alongside former president
with fluted Corinthian case to the left of the entrance Toms Guardia (see p45).
pilasters. To the left of the is a life-size statue of Christ. On the cathedrals north
entrance is a larger-than-life Although entirely lacking side is a contemporary
bronze bust of Ziga. To the the ornate Baroque gilt of marble statue of Pope John
right is a bas-relief plaque many other Latin American Paul II by Jimnez Deredia.
honoring Jos Ravents Gual, churches, the cathedral has
who had the theater built. many fine features, notably an
The handsome lobby, in exquisite Colonial-style tiled Teatro Nacional 3
checkered green-and-black floor and beautiful stained-
tile, leads into a triple-tiered, glass windows depicting See pp6061.
horseshoe-shaped auditorium, biblical scenes. The main
which hosts theatrical and altar, beneath a cupola,
musical events, as well as folk comprises a simple wooden
Museo del Oro
shows. The auditorium boasts Precolombino 4
a striking parquet wooden
floor beneath a wood-paneled See pp623.
ceiling, which is decorated
with a simple mural and a
wrought-iron chandelier. Mercado Central 5
Map 1 B3. Calles 6/8 and Aves

Catedral Central/1. Tel 2295-6104. @
Metropolitana 2 # 6am8pm MonSat. 0
Map 1 C4. Calle Central and Aves An intriguing curiosity, San

2/4. Tel 2221-3820. @ # 6am Joss Central Market was
noon & 36pm MonSat, 6am9pm built in 1881. The building,
Sun. R 7 which takes up an entire
block northwest of the
San Joss pre-eminent church, Catedral Metropolitana, is
the Metropolitan Cathedral itself rather uninspiring, but
was built in 1871 to replace Pillared faade of the austere its warren of narrow alley-
the original cathedral, which Catedral Metropolitana ways, hemmed in by more
S A N J O S 59
than 200 stalls, immerse

visitors in a slice of Costa
Rican life. This quintessential
Latin American market thrives
as a chaotic emporium of
the exotic, with every con-
ceivable item for sale, from
herbal remedies and fresh-
cut flowers to snakeskin
boots and saddles for
sabaneros (cowboys).
Toward the center, sodas
(food stalls) offer inexpensive
cooked meals sold at the
counter. The market extends
one block north to Mercado
Borbn, which has stalls of
butchers, fishmongers, and The Edificio Correos, featuring a blend of architectural styles
fruit sellers, and buyers crowd-
ed in as thick as sardines. with Corinthian pilasters. The philately in Costa Rica. The
Next to the markets entrance arched centerpiece is topped nations first stamp, from
on the southeast corner, by a shield and supported by 1863, is displayed here. Other
there are plaques honoring angels bearing the national exhibits include important
important political figures. coat of arms. There is a and rare stamps from abroad,
Pickpockets operate within tourist information office on including the English Penny
the tightly packed alleys of the ground floor. The post Black. The museum hosts
the market. Remember to office is abuzz with the a stamp exchange on
leave your valuables in the comings and goings the first Saturday of every
hotel safe when you venture of locals picking up their month. The Edificio
out. It is best to tuck your mail at apartados (post Correos is fronted by a
camera well out of sight office boxes) that fill pedestrian plaza shaded
when it is not in use. the ground floor of the by fig trees. Towering
two-storey atrium. over the plaza is a statue
Philatelists can of the first president of
Edificio Correos 6 view rare stamps Costa Rica, Juan Mora
in the small Museo Fernndez, who was
Map 1 B3. Calle 2 and Aves 1/3. Filatlico de Costa Rica in power from 1824
Tel 2223-6918. @ # 7:30am (Philatelic Museum to 1828. Nearby,
6pm MonFri, 7:30amnoon Sat. of Costa Rica), to the southwest of
- 7 Museo Filatlico de Costa which takes up Statue of Juan Mora the Edificio Correos
Rica Tel 2223-9766 (ext. 205). three rooms on the Fernndez opposite is another square,
# 8am5pm MonFri. public second floor. The Edificio Correos Plaza Los Presentes,
hols. ^ first room has a fine which is dominated
collection of old telephones by Los Presentes, a contempo-
The building housing the and telegraphic equipment rary monument in bronze.
main post office, or Correo that goes back more than a Created in 1979 by well-
Central, was completed in 100 years. known sculptor Fernando
1917. Designed by Luis Llach The collection of stamps Calvo, the monument
in eclectic style, it has a pea- occupies the other two consists of statues of a dozen
green reinforced concrete rooms, which also have Costa Rican campesinos
faade, which is embellished exhibits on the history of (peasant farmers).
Los Presentes by Fernando Calvo, in Plaza Los Presentes, near Edificio Correos
Teatro Nacional 3
Considered the finest historic building in San

Jos, the National Theater was conceived
in 1890, when Spanish-born prima donna
Adelina Patti sidestepped Costa Rica while
on a Central American tour due to the lack
of a suitable venue. This spurred the ruling
coffee barons to levy a tax on coffee exports
to fund the building of a grand theater.
Locals claim, disputably, that the structure
was modeled on the Paris Opera House.
Statue of Completed in 1897, it was inaugurated with
Music a performance of El Fausto de Gournod by
the Paris Opera. Declared a National Monument in
1965, the theater has a lavish Neo-Baroque interior,
replete with statues, paintings, marble staircases, and
parquet floors made of 10 species of hardwood. La Danza de Vignami, painted on
the ceiling of the auditorium
Teatro Caf Allegorical statues

The coffee shop of the Muses of Music,
adjoining the lobby Dance, and Fame top
is decorated in black the Neoclassical faade.
and white tile, and
has marble-topped
tables. The ceiling
is painted with
a triptych.
Statue of Caldern de
la Barca, the 17th-century
dramatist, by Italian artist
Adritico Froli.
The small garden is

formally patterned and
features a life-size
marble statue of a
female flautist (1997) by
Jorge Jimnez Deredia.
A statue
of Ludwig van
Beethoven, created in
the 1890s by Adritico
Froli, stands in an alcove.
STAR FEATURES
Entrance Lobby
With its pink marble floor and bronze-tipped . Auditorium
Corinthian marble columns, the lobby hints at
the splendors to come. The doors are topped by . Coffee Mural
gilt pediments adorned with lions faces. The . Foyer
wooden ceiling has a simple floral motif.
S A N J O S 61
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Map 1 C4. Calles 3/5 and Ave 2.
Tel 2221-9417. @ Cemeterio-
Estadio. # 9am4pm MonSat.
& 8 Shows Orquestra Sinf-
nia Nacional (National Symphony
Orchestra) performances Mar
Dec: 8pm Thu and Fri; 10:30am
Sun. - 9am5pm MonSat.
www.teatronacional.go.cr
. Coffee Mural
Depicting a coffee harvest, the huge mural on the ceiling of
the intermezzo, between the lobby and the auditorium, was
painted in 1897 by Milanese artist Aleardo Villa. The scene
is full of errors, with coffee being shown as a coastal crop The Palco Presidencial, or
presidential balcony, has
instead of a highland one.
a ceiling mural, Alegora
a la Patria y la Justcia,
painted in 1897 by
Roberto Fontana.
The structure
was built with
a steel frame.
The exterior
of the building . Auditorium
is of sandstone. Dominated by a rotunda ceiling with
a mural of cherubs and deities, the red-
and-gold auditorium has three floors, a
horseshoe shape, and wrought-iron seats.
The stage can be lowered and raised.
. Foyer
A double staircase with gold-gilt banisters
leads to the magnificent foyer, which features
pink marble and a surfeit of crystals, gilt
mirrors, and gold-leaf embellishments. Splen-
did murals show scenes of Costa Rican life.
Museo del Oro Precolombino 4
Occupying the starkly modern subterranean

space beneath the Plaza de la Cultura and
managed by the Banco Central de Costa Rica,
the Museum of Pre-Columbian Gold boasts
a dazzling display of ancient gold items.
Frog figurine The collection consists of more than 1,600
in gold pieces of pre-Columbian gold dating back
to AD 500. Most of the amulets, earrings, shamanic
animal figures, and erotic statuettes exhibited here
originated in southwest Costa Rica, attesting to the
sophisticated art of the Diquis culture. The uses and
crafting of these items are demonstrated with the help . Museo de Numismtica
of models and other displays, which also depict the The National Coin Museum
social and cultural evolution of pre-Columbian cultures. exhibits date back to 1502.
The displays include
coins, bank notes, and
unofficial currency such
as coffee tokens.
The First Coin

Costa Ricas first coin, called
the Medio Escudo, was minted
in 1825, when the country
was part of the Federation of
Central America (see p44).
Frog figurines, a
traditional symbol
of life for indigenous
tribes, are among the
gold displays.
Auditorium
. El Guerrero
The most stunning piece is
the life-size warrior adorned
with gold ornaments, includ-
ing a gold headband, chest
disc (paten), amulets, and Model of
an Indian
ankle rings. Gold objects village
were a symbol of authority. Third
level
Gold Craftsmanship
STAR FEATURES El Curandero (The
This section explains how pre- Healer) is a life-size
. El Guerrero Columbian cultures utilized model of a medicine
repouss, the technique of man performing a
. Museo de Numismtica decorating metal surfaces by ritual healing using
hammering from the back. medicinal plants.
S A N J O S 63
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Map 1 C4. Plaza de la Cultura,
Calle 5 and Aves Central/2.
Tel 2243-4202. @ all downtown
buses. # 9:30am5pm daily.
& 8 by appt. ^ 7 www.
museosdelbancocentral.org
KEY
Museo de Numismtica
Temporary exhibition gallery
Golden treasures Pre-Columbian Gold Museum

(introduction and orientation area)
The main exhibition space, situated on the third
level, is packed with golden objects of all sizes, Pre-Columbian Gold Museum
(exhibition of gold pieces)
from large gold chest discs to small, intricate
pieces of jewelry. Nonexhibition space
Entrance
GALLERY GUIDE
The museum occupies three
floors below the plaza. Beyond
Foyer the entrance, a broad foyer
leads past a temporary
exhibition space to the Museo
de Numismtica. Adjacent to
this is a spiral staircase that
descends to the second level.
ICT tourist
This floor offers an intro-
information duction to pre-Columbian
culture and metallurgy, as
well as temporary exhibitions
that are changed every four
months. The third level
features an auditorium as well
as the main gallery, which
displays a permanent exhibi-
First
tion of ancient gold items.
level
Finca 4 Site
This is a replica of a
pre-Columbian grave
unearthed in the 1950s.
Second
level
Discovered on a banana
plantation in southeastern
Costa Rica, the grave
contained 88 gold objects.
LOST WAX TECHNIQUE

Pre-Columbian groups, notably the
Chibchas and Diquis of the Pacific
southwest, were masterful goldsmiths,
skilled in the use of the lost wax
technique. Here, the desired form is
carved in wax, then molded with clay
and baked. The wax melts, leaving a
Subterranean Vault negative into which molten metal is
Accessed from Calle 5 by poured to attain the required result.
a broad staircase, the Gold Most pre-Columbian pieces were alloys
Museum is housed in an of gold and copper, with the alloy called Gold shaman
underground space pro- tumbaga being the most commonly used. figurine
tected by steel doors.
in 1903, that the Costa Rican

national anthem, written by
Jos Mara Zeledn Brenes
(18771949) and Manual
Mara Gutirrez (182987),
was first performed.
On the northeast corner, a
quaint Colonial-style pabelln
(pavilion), erected in 1947,
is inlaid with sepia-toned
ceramic murals of the appari-
tion of the Lady of Los
Angeles, the church of Orosi,
and the cathedral of Heredia.
The intriguing Edificio Metlico, constructed entirely of metal A patinated life-size statue of
conquistador Juan Vsquez de
Parque Morazn 7 French architect Charles Thirio. Coronado (see p42) stands at
The metal pieces were cast in the southwest corner of the
Map 2 D3 Calles 5/9 and Aves 3/5. @ Belgium in 1892 and shipped park. Brick pathways wind
to Costa Rica for welding and past busts of important figures,
Laid out as Plaza Gonzlez assembly in situ. Since then, it including Queen Isabel II of
Vquez on the site of an open- has functioned as an elemen- Spain (18301904) and philan-
air reservoir in 1930, this small tary school, the Escuela thropist Andrew Carnegie
park was later renamed after Buenaventura Corrales y (18351919). Facing the
Francisco Morazn (see p44). Julia Lang. A small bust northwest side of
The Honduran-born Central of Minerva, the the park is the
American federalist served Roman goddess of ocher-colored,
briefly as president of Costa wisdom, sits on top stuccoed Casa
Rica before being executed of its imposing Amarilla (Yellow
in 1842. Shaded by tabebuia Neoclassical faade. House). Designed
(also called trumpet trees) that Take in a birds-eye by architect Henry
bloom in the dry season, the view of its exterior Wiffield in an ornate
park is popular with office from the lobby of Spanish Baroque
workers, schoolchildren, the Museo de Jade style, it was
and lovers, although it is Fidel Tristn Castro Carved pillars at completed in 1916
to be avoided at night across the street. Casa Amarilla to house the Pan-
when transvestites gather. American Court of
The parks four ornate iron Justice. In later years it served
gateways are topped by Parque Espaa 9 as the Presidential Residence
Roman urns. At its center and the Asamblea Legislativa.
is the domed Neoclassical Map 2 D3. Calles 9/11 and Aves Today, the Foreign Relations
Templo de Msica, built in 3/7. @ Casa Amarilla Tel 2223- Ministry has its offices here.
1920. Busts honor Morazn 7555. # 8am4pm MonFri. The most striking element
and other luminaries such 8 by appointment. of Casa Amarilla is the grand
as South American liberator ornamental lintel above the
Simn Bolvar (17831830). Shaded by densely packed front door. The grounds
To the parks southwest is trees and bamboo groves, behind the ministry contain a
a bronze statue of former this leafy plaza is pleasantly section of the Berlin Wall; this
president Julio Garca, seated full of birdsong. It was here, can be viewed at the corner
in a chair. Facing the park of Calle 13 and Avenida 9.
on the northeast, is an 11-ft The towering building
(3.5-m) tall statue of another west of the Casa Amarilla
former president, Daniel is the Instituto Nacional de
Quiros, by Costa Rican artist Seguro (INS or the National
Olger Villegas. Institute of Insurance). In
its front courtyard, paying
homage to the institution of
Edificio Metlico 8 the family, is La Familia, a
huge sculpture by Francisco
Map 2 D3. Calle 9 and Aves 5/7. Ziga (see p19).
Tel 2222-0026. @ The Legacin de Mexico,
55 yd (50 m) east along
Constructed entirely of pre- Avenida 7, was built in
fabricated pieces of metal, 1924 and is a splendid
this intriguing San Jos example of Colonial-style
edifice, standing between architecture. The armistice
Parque Morazn and Parque The Colonial-style pavilion in of the 1948 War of Liberation
Espaa, was designed by Parque Espaa was signed here.
The pedestrian plaza in front of the Edificio Correos
S A N J O S 67
National de Licores (State

Museo de Jade Fidel Liquor Factory). In 1994, the
Tristn Castro 0 defunct factory was converted
into the multi-faceted Centro
Map 2 D3. Calle 9 and Ave 7. Nacional de la Cultura
Tel 2287-6034. @ # 8:30am (CENAC), although traces of
3:30pm MonFri, 9am1pm Sat. the old distillery can still be
public hols. & 7 seen. The Ministry of Culture
is located here, as are venues
Located on the first floor hosting the National Theater
of the National Institute of Detail of a ceramic mural showing a Company and the National
Insurance (INS) building, traditional scene, Barrio Amn Dance Company (see p245).
the Fidel Tristn Castro Jade Most of the extant buildings
Museum contains the largest (see p200) was formerly the date to 1856, as does the
collection of pre-Columbian residence of President Toms perimeter wall, whose stone
jade in the Americas. It was Guardia (see p45) and is a west gate is topped by a
founded by Fidel Tristn Cas- curious blend of Art Deco triangular pediment. Note
tro, the first president of the and Neoclassical styles. One the reloj de sol (sun clock),
INS, in 1977. The collection block west, at the corner of carved into the perimeter wall
consists of adzes, ceremonial Calle 5, is the Casa Verde, a to the right of the southeast
heads, and decorative pieces clapboard building of New portaln (gate) by architect
from 500 BC to AD 800. There Orleans pine, dating to 1910 Teodorico Quirs (see p19).
are also metates (grinding and notable for its soaring The Museo de Arte y
tables made of volcanic stone), lounge spectacularly lit by Diseo Contemporneo
ceramics, and gold ornaments. a stained-glass atrium. (Museum of Contemporary
The Sala de Jade displays jade The most audacious Art and Design) occupies the
pendants in kaleidoscopic building in this barrio is the southeast part of the complex
hues of green and blue, Bishops Castle at Avenida 11 and features permanent and
exquisitely backlit to demon- and Calle 3. It was built in rotating exhibitions of art,
strate their translucent quality. 1930 in ornate Moorish style architecture, and ceramics in
The jade pieces that make up with turrets, crenellations, six rooms. Evelia con baton, a
this collection did not come keyhole windows, a central sculpture by Francisco Ziga,
from archaeological sites dome, and a faade decorated stands in the west courtyard.
they were purchased from with glazed tiles showing
private collectors who had scenes from Don Quixote.
bought them from looters.
Centro Nacional
Barrio Amn q de la Cultura w
Map 1 C2. Calles Central/9 and Map 2 D3. Calles 11/15 and Aves 3/7.
Aves 7/13. @ Tel 2255-3638; Museo de Arte y
Diseo Contemporneo: 2257-9370.
The richest architectural @ # 10:30am5pm TueSat.
collection in San Jos is the public hols. & 8 10am3pm Tue
complex of historic homes Fri by appt. 7 ^ www.madr.ac.cr
in this residential barrio
(neighborhood), founded Immediately east of Parque
in the 1890s by French Espaa, the rambling struc-
immigrant Amn Fasileau ture of the National Center of
Duplantier. Once on the Culture takes up a block on Detail on the faade of the Centro
verge of decay, the area has the site of the former Fbrica Nacional de la Cultura
now undergone restoration.
The most interesting homes
are along Avenida 9; the JADE CARVING
stretch between Calles 3 Jade carving was introduced to the region by
and 7 is lined with beautiful cultures from the north around 500 BC and died
ceramic wall murals by local out around AD 800, when it was replaced by
artist Fernando Matamoros gold. The indigenous people used saws made of
showing traditional Costa fiber string, as well as drills and crude quartz-
Rican scenes. tipped chisels, to carve the semi-precious stone
Begin at Calle 11, where into necklaces, pendants, and religious figurines
No. 980 is a two-story colonial bearing replicas of animal motifs. No local source
mansion boasting a life-size is known to have existed: jade was traded from
campesino (peasant) in pre- Guatemala and neighboring regions.
cast concrete gazing over
the wrought-iron railing. At Jade anthropomorphic figure
Calle 7, the Hotel Don Carlos
Street-by-Street: Around Parque Nacional

Commanding a bluff on the east side of downtown,
Parque Nacional, one of the citys largest parks, is
a bucolic tree-shaded retreat in the heart of San Jos.
Surrounding the park on three sides are the countrys
most important government buildings, including the
Legislative Assembly complex. Also in the vicinity are
many of Costa Ricas significant cultural sights, such
as the National Museum. The area makes for pleasant
strolling, especially with the addition of a pedestrian
precinct sloping south from Parque Nacional, which
is a lovely place to sit and relax.
Biblioteca Nacional
This modern-looking struc-
ture was erected in 196971
to house the national library.
A fish pond,
stocked with
koi, runs along

""
the western side

of the park.

$
,
Centro Nacional de la Cultura
Occupying the site of the former State
Liquor Factory, the National Center
of Cultures attractions include
the state-of-the-art Museum of

Contemporary Art and Design w

$
,

""

Eptome del

Vuelo statue

$
,

""

The Tribunal
Supremo de
Plaza de la Libertad Electoral Elecciones
This small, semi-circular plaza honors building houses
the government STAR SIGHTS
the nations democracy. Neoclassical
body that ensures
columns enclose a pink granite statue, the integrity . Asamblea
Eptome del Vuelo (1996), created by of elections. Legislativa
sculptor Jos Sancho Benito.
. Museo
Nacional
0 meters 100 KEY
. Parque Nacional
Suggested route
0 yards 100
S A N J O S 69
. Parque Nacional
Centered on the impressive granite-and-bronze Monumento
Nacional (1892), this fine park is thick with trees and Bulevar Ricardo Jimnez
dotted with busts of several Latin American heroes t This stretch of Calle 17
running south of Parque
Nacional is a handsome
palm-lined, pedestrian-only
causeway. It is also known
as the Camino de la Corte.

""
Bust of Jos Mart,

the Cuban patriot.
Statue of Juan

Santamara

$
,

. Asamblea Legislativa
Costa Ricas Legislative Assembly is housed in
three historic buildings dating back to 1914.
Built in different styles, the structures
contain several galleries e
Casa Rosada is occupied by

congressional offices.
Castillo Azul, the oldest of

the Asamblea Legislativa
"
buildings, earlier served

*(
as the presidential palace.

$

$

,
""

Bulevar
Ricardo
Jimnez

$
,

Plaza de la Democraca was

. Museo Nacional
laid out in a series of
concrete terraces in 1989 for the
Located in an early 19th-century
Bust of Don Hemispheric Summit. On the fortress, Costa Ricas National
Andrs Bello, southwest corner stands a bronze Museum traces the history of the
a Venezuelan statue of former president Jos nation from pre-Columbian to
intellectual. Don Pepe Figueres (see p47). contemporary times r
Asamblea
Legislativa e
Map 2 E3. Calles 15/17 & Ave
Central. Tel 2243-2000. @
8 compulsory: 9am; 2243-2547.
Legislative debates 3pm MonThu;
by appt. www.asamblea.go.cr
The countrys seat of

government is in an enclave
of four buildings, covering
an entire block. The main
structure, Edificio del Plenario, Pre-Columbian stone spheres in the Museo Nacional
built in 1958, serves as the
congress building along Museo Nacional r ceramics, as well as spectacu-
with an adjoining edifice. lar gold ornaments displayed
A bronze statue of national Map 2 E4. Calle 17 & Aves in the Sala de Oro, in the
hero Juan Santamara (see Central/2. Tel 2257-1433. @ northeast tower. The Sala
p84), torch in hand, stands # 8:30am4:30pm TueSat, 9am Colonial is laid out with rustic
in the north courtyard. The 4:30pm Sun. public hols. & 7 colonial furniture, and looks
pink Casa Rosada, to the = www.museocostarica.go.cr as a room would have looked
northeast, houses the offices in the 18th century.
of various political parties. Dramatic and imposing, the Steps lead down from the
The Mediterranean-style crenellated, ocher-colored courtyard to a large netted
Castillo Azul to the southeast Bellavista Fortress opposite butterfly garden in the
was built in 1911 for Mximo the Legislative Assembly was southwest corner. Beyond the
Fernndez, then a presidential built in 1917 and served as an butterfly garden lies Plaza de
aspirant. It served as the army barracks. Its exterior la Democraca, which was laid
Presidential Residence until walls, with towers at each out in 1989 and received a
1927, after which it was briefly corner, are pocked with bullet much-needed facelift in 2009.
the US mission. Since 1989, holes from the 1948 civil war. The stepped plaza hosts a
it has been used for official Following his victory, Jos 1994 bronze statue of Jos
functions and contains govern- Don Pepe Figueres (see Figueres; a crafts market
ment offices. Its six salons, pp467) disbanded the army, occupies the western end.
boasting beautiful hardwood and the fortress became
floors and Italian marble, the venue for the National
include the Sala Alfredo Museum, which had been Parque Nacional t
Gonzlez Flores, which is founded in 1887.
used for cabinet meetings, The entrance, on the east Map 2 E3. Calles 15/19 and
and the Sala Prceres de la side, opens on to a land- Aves 1/3. @
Libertad, with its gilt-framed scaped courtyard displaying
portraits of Latin American lib- pre-Columbian carretas (ox- The largest of San Joss
erators such as Simn Bolvar. carts), stone bolas (spheres), inner-city parks, laid out in
Visitors are admitted to and colonial-era cannons. The 1895, this is also its most
the Edificio del Plenario to museum, to the right of the appealing, although it is to
witness legislative debates. entrance, is arranged be avoided at night. The
Note that sandals are not thematically in a counter- peaceful park is set on
permitted for men, nor bare clockwise direction. a gentle hill that rises
legs for either sex. Rooms are dedicated eastward. Stone benches
to geological, colonial, fringe the irregular paths
archeological, that snake beneath
contemporary, and flowering trees,
religious history. swaying palms, and
The displays start bamboo groves.
from the first arrival Bust of Don Andrs The massive
of humans in Costa Bello in Parque Monumento
Rica and go up to Nacional Nacional is under
the formation of the towering trees at the
nation and recent events: a center. Cast in the Rodin
key exhibit is the 1987 Nobel studios in Paris and unveiled
Peace Prize awarded to presi- on September 15, 1892, it is
dent Oscar Arias Snchez dedicated to the heroic deeds
(see p47). The museum has of the War of 1856. Its granite
a particularly impressive pre- pedestal has five bronze
Part of the Asamblea Legislativa Columbian collection, notably Amazons representing the
complex in San Jos of metates (stone tables) and Central American nations
S A N J O S 71
Antigua Estacin
Ferrocarril al
Atlntico y
Map 2 F3.
Calles 21/23 and Ave 3. @
To the northeast of the

Parque Nacional is the
former Estacin Ferrocarril
al Atlntico (Atlantic Railroad
Station). Built in 1908, this
ornate building, which
resembles a pagoda, later Display of butterflies at San Joss
became the terminus for Museo de Insectos
Children playing by a fish pond in the famous Jungle Train,
Parque Nacional discontinued in 1991
following a devastating
Universidad de
repelling the adventurer earthquake that destroyed Costa Rica u
William Walker (see p45). much of the railway line.
Costa Rica stands in the The building once housed Calle Central, San Pedro. Tel 2207-
middle holding a flag in one the Museo de Formas, 4000. @ Museo de Insectos Tel
hand and supporting a Espacios y Sonidos (Museum 2207-5647. # 15pm MonFri. &
wounded Nicaragua with the of Form, Space & Sound), Planetario Tel 2207-2580. # for
other; El Salvador holds a which closed in 2007, when shows: 8:30, 9:30 & 10:30am Mon
sword, Guatemala an axe, the former station was Fri; 10am, 11am, 2pm & 3pm Sat. &
and Honduras an arch and earmarked as the entrance
shield. Bronze bas-reliefs to for a new presidential The University of Costa Rica
each side depict scenes from palace that is still awaiting imbues the suburb of San
the battles. construction. For the time Pedro with bohemian life. The
Busts dotted around the being, rail buffs can campus entrance is on Calle
park honor such Latin appreciate the vintage rolling Central (off Avenida Central),
American nationalists as the stock to the rear and east of which throbs with student bars
Mexican revolutionary and the building. This includes and cafs. The campus itself
priest Miguel Hidalgo Locomotora 59, a 1939 steam is not particularly appealing,
(17531811), the Venezuelan locomotive imported from although numerous busts and
poet and intellectual Don Philadelphia for the Northern statues are sprinkled about
Andrs Bello (17811865), Railway Company. the tree-shaded grounds. A
and the Cuban patriot and A bust of Toms Guardia botanical garden is located
poet Jos Mart (185395). (see p45), under whom the in the southwest corner.
The park is surrounded by railroad was established, The Museo de Insectos, in
important buildings. The stands in front of the the basement of the Music
Biblioteca Nacional (National building, next to an obelisk Department in the northeast
Library) is to the north, and to commemorating the abolition corner of the campus, boasts
the south, the pedestrianized of capital punishment in 1877. a large display of butterflies,
Bulevar Ricardo Jimnez, beetles, spiders, wasps, and
named for the three-time other insects. A planetarium
president, slopes downhill hosts daily presentations in
three blocks to the building Spanish. Call ahead to request
of the Tribunal of Justice. an English-language showing.
The ornate, pagoda-style exterior of the Antigua Estacin Ferrocarril al Atlntico

Centro Costarricense de Ciencias y Cultura i
Housed in a fortress-like building that served as the

penitenciario central (central penitentiary) from 1910
to 1979, the Costa Rican Science and Cultural Center
was inaugurated in 1994. The ocher faade, topped
by salmon-colored crenellations, presents a dramatic
sight at night, when it is illuminated. The center
contains the Galera Nacional, whose airy exhibition
halls feature paintings, sculptures, and other art forms
by Costa Ricas leading exponents of avant-garde art.
Also here is the Museo de los Nios, with dozens of
thematic hands-on exhibits that provide children with
an understanding of nature, science, technology, and Stained-Glass Ceiling
culture. The center includes a youth center and A skylit vidriera (stained-glass
auditorium. Scattered around the complex are models window) by Italian Claudio
of various modes of transport. Dueas lights the staircase
to the Galera Nacional.
The eastern wall

features paintings
by contemporary
artists such as
Fabio Herrera.
Museo Histrico Penitenciario

The old jail cells are preserved in
their original condition in this
area. Historic photographs show
the jail in former years.
. Galera Nacional
Occupying 14 large rooms upstairs, the National
Gallery showcases rotating exhibits of contem-
porary works by local artists in spotlit rooms
converted from former jail cells.
Sala Kaopakome
STAR FEATURES Named for an indigenous
. Galera Nacional Bribri word meaning Hall of
Meetings, this space is used
. Museo de los Nios for artistic performances
and other events.
S A N J O S 73
Genesis VISITORS CHECKLIST

This granite
sculpture (1998) Map 1 B1. Calle 4 and 110 yd
(100 m) N of Ave 9. Tel 2233-
by Jorge Jimnez
4929. @ Sabana-Cemeterio
Deredia shows a along Ave 3. Best to take a taxi.
woman evolving # 8am3:30pm TueFri,
from an egg. 9:30am5pm Sat & Sun. & 8
7 - = www.museocr.org
Auditorio Nacional
The Auditorio
Tel 2222-7647.
Nacional, the nations
premier auditorium,
hosts performances
of music and dance.
The entrance
Imagen Csmica (1998) is in the form
by Jorge Jimnez of a medieval
Deredia is a bronze and castle, with
marble sculpture. twin turrets.
. Museo de los Nios

The Childrens Museum,
dedicated to interactive
education, is spread through-
out 39 separate rooms,
with exhibits on the themes
of astronomy, Earth, Costa
Rica, ecology, science, human
beings, and communications.
Escuela El Grano de Oro has

exhibits on the coffee culture and
the history of coffee in Costa Rica.
An electric train and carriages

date from 192830, when the
rail system was electrified.
Helicopter
Aircraft
cockpit
Complejo Juvenil
Designed as a learning center for youth,
the twin-level complex features a library,
with books, audio cassettes, music CDs,
interactive games, and an Internet caf.
Parque Sabana o Museo de Arte

Calle 42/Sabana Oeste and Ave las
Costarricense p
Amricas/Sabana Sur. @ 7
Calle 42 and Paseo Coln. Tel 2222-
7155. @ # 9am5pm TueFri,
Officially named Parque 10am4pm Sat & Sun. public
Metropolitano La Sabana hols. & free on Sun. 8 ^
Padre Antonio Chapui, after www.musarco.go.cr
the first priest of San Jos
(171083), this park was Costa Ricas leading museum
the citys main airfield until of fine art, on the east side of
1955, when it was converted Parque Sabana, is situated in
into a bucolic retreat and the Colonial-style former air-
sports venue. The former port terminal that closed in
airport buildings now house the 1950s. The Costa Rican Art View of the Museo de Arte
the Museo de Arte Costarri- Museum displays more than Costarricense, San Jos
cense. Looming over the 3,200 important 20th-century
park are the curving ICE works of art by Costa Rican 1940s. On the north wall is a
(Costa Rican Institute of sculptors and painters, as well representation of Christopher
Electricity) tower to the as works by a smattering of Columbus with Indians
north, and the strangely foreign artists, including the kneeling before him.
sloping Controlara de la Mexican Diego Rivera The Jardn de Esculturas
Repblica, the governments (18861957). Only (Sculpture Garden) at the
administrative a fraction of the back of the museum, exhibits
headquarters, museums collec- works by prominent sculp-
to the south. tion is on display, tors, and also displays pre-
The park, which in rotating Columbian esferas (spheres)
is accessed from exhibitions that and petroglyphs. Most
downtown via change yearly. intriguing are the Tres
the wide Paseo Many of the Mujeres Caminando,
Coln, is popular works, most Francisco Zigas sculpture
with Costa Rican of which are of three women, and the
families, who Flags for sale in privately owned, granite Danaide, a female
picnic on week- downtown San Jos celebrate an archaic, curled in the fetal position,
ends beneath the pastoral way of life, by Max Jimnez Huete.
eucalyptus and best exemplified by El Portn
pine groves. The parks Rojo (1945) by Teodorico
facilities include jogging and Quirs Alvarado (see p19). Museo de
cycling tracks, basketball, A highlight of the collection,
volleyball, and tennis courts, and not to be missed, are Ciencias Naturales
riding trails, a swimming Francisco Amighettis wooden La Salle a
pool, a gymnasium, soccer sculptures and woodcuts.
fields, and the National On the second floor, the Sabana Sur. Tel 2232-1306. @
Stadium, completed in 2010. Saln Dorado has a bas-relief # 8am4pm MonSat, 9am5pm
On the south side, a man- mural in bronze and stucco Sun. public hols. & 8 ^
made lake is surrounded by by French sculptor Louis
modern sculptures. To the Ferrn. Sweeping around all Located in the former
parks west, a cross honors four walls, the panorama premises of the Colegio
Pope John Pauls visit to depicts an idealized version La Salle school, the La Salle
Costa Rica in 1983. It is best of Costa Rican history from Museum of Natural Sciences
to avoid the park at night. pre-Columbian times to the was founded in 1960.
A spectacular bird diorama at Museo de Ciencias Naturales La Salle
S A N J O S 75
Housing one of the most

comprehensive collections of
native and exotic flora and
fauna in the world, it boasts
more than 70,000 items, from
molluscs to moths to mana-
tees. A dinosaur exhibit in
the central courtyard includes
a replica skeleton of a
Tyrannosaurus Rex made of
resin. The fossil, shell, and
butterfly displays are particu-
larly noteworthy. Most
exhibits are in dioramas
that try to recreate natural
environments. Snakes are
poised to strike their prey.
Fish swim suspended on
invisible wire. The stuffed
species are a bit moth-eaten, Victorian-style Casa de Las Tas hotel in San Rafael de Escaz
and their contrived contor-
tions often comic. Despite architectural style include a indigenous word itzkatzu
this, the museum provides church, a market, a fire station, (resting place), sprawls uphill
an interesting introduction a bank, and a railway station. for several miles. It is divided
to Costa Ricas natural world. There are several original into three main barrios San
adobe structures, such as a Rafael de Escaz, San Miguel
coffee mill, a sugar mill, and a de Escaz, and San Antonio
milking barn, which have de Escaz.
been moved here from the Modernity is concentrated
countryside. A farmstead is in congested San Rafael de
stocked with live animals. Escaz, where an exquisite
Horse-drawn carriages, ox- Colonial-style church, designed
carts, and an electric train offer in the 1930s by architect
rides, and actors in period Teodorico Quirs Alvarado, is
costume dramatize the past. encircled by high-rise condo-
Folkloric shows with music miniums and US-style malls.
and dance bring the place to Half a mile (1 km) uphill, in
life on Friday and Saturday San Miguel de Escaz, admire
evenings. Parque Diversiones the colonial-era adobe
has several craft shops as well houses, each painted with
A traditional dance performance at as a restaurant that serves tra- a strip of blue many local
Parque Diversiones ditional Costa Rican cuisine. residents still firmly believe
that this will ward off witches.
Parque Diversiones Escaz d San Antonio de Escaz,
farther uphill, is a farming
(Pueblo Antiguo) s community. Time your visit
2 miles (3 km) W of Parque here for the second Sunday
1 mile (1.6 km) W of Hospital Sabana. @ _ Da del Boyero of March, when flower-
Mxico, La Uruca. Tel 2242-3500. (Mar). Barry Biesanz bedecked carretas
@ # 9am7pm FriSun. & 7 0 Woodworks Barrio Bello (oxcarts) parade during
= www.parquediversiones.com/ Horizonte. Tel 2289-4337. Da del Boyero (Oxcart
pueblo.htm # 8am5pm MonFri, Drivers Day), a
Sat by appt. 8 = festival honoring the
This splendid park, in Barrio www.biesanz.com men who drive the
La Uruca, 2 miles (3 km) west oxcarts. Barry
of downtown, draws local This upscale district Biesanz Woodworks
families not only for the roller lies west of Parque is in the barrio of
coasters, water slides, and Sabana and is Bello Horizonte,
other pay-as-you-go rides, accessed by the Detail of church dome in in east Escaz.
but also for the marvellous Carretera Prospero San Miguel de Escaz This is the work-
re-creations of typical early- Fernndez. It shop of Costa
20th-century Costa Rican exudes an appeal that it owes Ricas leading woodcarver
settings in the adjoining partly to its blend of antiquity and craftsman, who creates
Pueblo Antiguo (Old Village). and modernity, and partly to elegantly beautiful furniture,
Pueblo Antiguo has three its salubrious position at the bowls, and boxes from Costa
sections: the coast, the capital foot of Cerro Escaz moun- Ricas hardwoods. His works
city, and the countryside. tain. The suburb, which are available at the studio and
Buildings in traditional derives its name from the at upscale San Jos stores.
76 S A N J O S
SAN JOS STREET FINDER

T he map below shows
the area covered by the
map on pages 545, as
well as the city center area
shown on the Street Finder
center refer to the Street
Finder maps in this section.
An index of street names
and all the places of
interest marked on the
maps on pages 789. It also maps can be found on
shows the main highways used the facing page. Attractions
for getting around the poten- located to the west of downtown
tially confusing area that is are shown on the map on
greater San Jos. pages 545, while more distant
All map references for Tourists geared places of interest are plotted
places of interest, hotels, and up to explore on the inset Greater San Jos map
restaurants in San Jos city San Jos on page 55.
The busy Calle Central, which runs northsouth through the center of downtown San Jos
30
SCALE OF MAPS 12 65
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S T R E E T F I N D E R 77
Street Finder Index

Coca Cola
A C Bus Terminal 1 A3 P
Antigua Estacin Calle 1 1 C3 Corte Suprema de Parque Central 1 B4
Ferrocarril 2 1 B2 Justcia 2 E4 Parque Espaa 2 D3
al Atlntico 2 E3 3 1 C3 Parque la Merced 1 A4
4 1 B2
Archivos
Nacionales 2 D4 5 2 D2 E Parque Morazn
Parque Nacional
2 D3
2 E3
6 1 B2 Edificio Correos 1 B3
Asamblea
7 2 D2 Edificio Metlico 2 D3 Parque Soln Nez 1 A4
Legislativa 2 E3
8 1 A1 Parque Zoolgica
Avenida 1 1 A3
2 1 B4 9
10
2 D3
1 A1
G Simn Bolvar
Paseo de Los
2 D2
3 1 A3 Gran Hotel 1 C3
11 2 D2 Estudiantes 2 D4
4 1 A4
12 1 A2
5
6
1 A2
1 A4
13 2 E2 H Plaza de la Cultura
Plaza de la
1 C3
14 1 A2 Highway 5 1 C1
7 1 A2 Hospital Caldern Democraca 2 E4
15 2 E2
8 1 A4 16 1 A1 Guardia 2 E3 Plaza de la Libertad
9 1 B2 17 2 E3 Hospital San Juan Electoral 2 E3
10 1 A5 18 1 A1 de Dos 1 A3 Plaza Los Presentes 1 B3
11 1 A2 19 2 F2 Hotel Don Carlos 2 D2
12
13
1 A5
1 A1
21 2 F2 R
14 1 A5
23
25
2 F2
2 F3
I Radiogrphica
15 1 A1 Iglesia El Carmen 1 C3 Costarricense 1 C3
27 2 F4
16 1 B5 Iglesia La Dolorosa 1 C5 Roja Cruz 1 A4
29 2 F4
17 1 A1 3 bis 1 C2 Iglesia La Merced 1 A4 Route 108 2 F1
10 bis 2 F5 Central 1 C1 Iglesia La Soledad 2 D4 Route 166 1 A1
12 bis 2 E5 Carretera Gupiles 1 C1
Central 1 A3 Casa Amarilla 2 D3 L S
Casa Verde 2 D2 La Caja 1 C4 Servicio de Parques
B Catedral
Metropolitana 1 C4
La Cura 1 C4
Legacon de Mexico 2 E3
Nacionales 2 F5
Banco Central 1 B3 Centro Comercial Sirca Terminal 1 C4
Banco de El Pueblo 2 D1
Costa Rica 1 B3 Centro Costarricense M T
Banco Nacional de de Ciencias Mercado Borbn 1 A3
Costa Rica 1 B3 Mercado Central 1 B3 Teatro Mlico Salazar 1 B4
y Cultura 1 B1
Biblioteca Museo de Jade Fidel Teatro Nacional 1 C4
Centro Nacional
Nacional 2 E3 de la Cultura 2 D3 Tristn Castro 2 D3 Teatro Variedades 1 C4
Bulevar Ricardo Clnica Bblica 1 C5 Museo del Oro Tribunal Supremo
Jimnez 2 E4 Clnica Santa Precolombino 1 C3 de Elecciones 2 E3
Bishops Castle 1 C2 Rita 2 E5 Museo Nacional 2 E4 Tribunales de Justcia 2 E4
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H I G H W AY 5
ROUT
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6
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AVENIDA
17
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16
CA
CALLE
CALLE
LL
E
C A RR ETE R A
AVENID
10
A 15
8
AVENIDA
13 Centro
18
L
Costarricense de
ENTRA
CALLE
Ciencias y Cultura
AVENID A 11
CALLE C
s
B ARRI O PA S A e
rr
4
16
DE LA VAC A To
o
CALLE
R
CALLE
AV
EN
BARRIO LAIZA ID
A
13
AVEN AVE
NIDA
IDA 9
BIS
7 Bishop's
Castle
18
3
14
AVEN
12
CALLE
IDA
C A LL E
9
10
AVEN
8
CALLE
IDA
BARRIO
CALLE
7
CALLE
6
CALLE
2
4
AMN
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
AVEN
IDA
5 AVEN
IDA
7
AVEN
CALLE 1
IDA
3
5
CALLE
AV E N
IDA
Mercado Radiogrfica 5
Borbn Costarricense
AVE
NIDA
3
AVE NIDA 3
Edificio
Coca Cola Correos
Bus Terminal Banco
Nacional
AVENIDA de Costa Rica Iglesia
1
Parque El Carmen
C A L LE 1 0
CALLE 12
Sabana AV EN I DA
CALLE 8
1
6
Mercado
CALLE
PASEO COL Central

N PLAZA Banco
LOS
Museo del Oro
PRESENTES Central Precolombino
Hospital
San Juan de Dos
BARRI O AVENIDA
CENTRAL
PLAZA DE
M ERCED Banco de LA CULTURA
A L
Costa Rica Gran

Teatro Mlico Hotel
C E N T R
PARQUE AVENID Salazar

A 2 Teatro
LA MERCED
Iglesia Nacional
La Merced
A VE N I D PARQUE Catedral Teatro
A 4 CENTRAL
C A L L E
Metropolitana Variedades
AVENID La La
A 4
Cura Caja
14
C ALLE 1
CALLE 3
E 5
AVENI
PARQUE DA 6
CALLE
CALL
2
SOLN
CALLE 12
AVENI
NE Z DA 6
CALLE
AVE NID A 6
Roja Cruz
AVENIDA
16
8
AVENIDA 8
Sirca
CALLE
AVENIDA 8 Terminal
BARRI O
S ANTA LU CI A BARRIO
10
AVENIDA 10
D O L O R O SA
AVENIDA
AVENIDA 10
Iglesia
La Dolorosa
AVENIDA 12 AVENIDA 12
AVENIDA
12
1
3
L
5
CALLE
C E N T R A
B ARRI O
7
AVENID
CALLE
CALLE
A 14
C A L LE 8
CALLE
C A LLE 6
AN G E LES AVENID
A 14
CALLE
A 14
AVENID Clnica
Bblica
16
CALLE 12
CALLE 10
C A L L E
AVENIDA
16
E
CALL
AVENIDA 16
E 108
ROUT
Centro Comercial
El Pueblo
TE 108
ROU
B ARRIO
T O URN O N
es
rr
To
R o AV
EN
ID
A
15
PARQUE ZOOLGICA
SIMN BOLVAR AV
19
EN AV
ID EN
A ID
11 A
21
AVEN 13
LL
IDA
BA R R I O OTOYA
23
11
CA
E
AV
LL
EN
Casa ID
BA R R I O A V E N I D
15
CA
LLE
A
9
13
Verde
11
A
5
ARANJUEZ
E
11
LL
Hotel Don
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CA
CA
Carlos
7
LE
17
CAL
Museo de Jade Casa Hospital

LE
Fidel Tristn Castro Amarilla Caldern

CAL
AVEN
IDA
Legacon de
7 Mexico Guardia
AVENIDA
Edificio 7
Metlico PARQUE
ESPAA Centro Nacional
de la Cultura
PARQUE Biblioteca
MORAZN AVENIDA
Nacional
3
23
Antiguo Estacin de
PLAZA DE LA
Ferrocarril al Atlntico
E
LIBERTAD ELECTORAL
25
LL
CA
PARQUE
LLE
Tribunal Supremo NACIONAL

CA
AVENIDA
7
1 de Elecciones
9
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE 15
Asamblea
29
Legislativa
AVENIDA
CENTRAL
CALLE
AVENIDA
1
19
PLAZA DE LA
21
Museo
DEMOCRACA Nacional
CALLE
AVE NI D
CALLE
A 2
Universidad de
Costa Rica
EZ
CALLE 27
BARRI O
ARDO JIMN
Archivos
Nacionales Iglesia La SOLEDAD
Soledad
AVENIDA 6
BULEVAR RIC
11
AVENIDA
13
6
15
NTES
CALLE
Tribunales
CALLE
CALLE
de Justcia
AVENIDA 8
A
ESTUDI
Clinica A V E N I DA 8
Santa Rita
AVENIDA 10
DE LOS
AV E N ID A 1 0
B ARRIO Servicio
de Parques
MIL FL OR Nacionales
PASEO
AVENIDA
12
11
13
15
AVENIDA 1
CALLE
21
0
CALLE
BIS
CALLE
CALLE
A
AVENID
V
A 14
E
N
ID
A
VE
A
1
2
NI
17
DA
B
IS
E
14
LL
CA
S
immering volcanoes dominate the landscape of the Central
Highlands as they tower over the countrys central plateau a
broad valley at an altitude of around 3,300 ft (1,000 m). With
steep slopes lushly covered by verdant forests and coffee bushes, the
region offers glorious scenery. The climate is invigorating one
reason why two-thirds of the countrys population live here today.
The mild climate and of importance. Earthquakes were
fertile soils of the responsible for the destruction
meseta central (central of much colonial-era architec-
plateau) attracted early ture, including some fine
Spanish colonial settlers. Pre- churches, and most of the
Columbian peoples had already occu- surviving historically sig-
pied the region for about 10,000 years, nificant buildings are barely
although their most evolved commu- a century old.
nity Guayabo was mysteriously The region has some stunning
abandoned before the Spanish arrival drives along roads that wind up the
and overgrown by tropical jungle mountainsides through green coffee
until discovered 500 years later. plantations, dairy pastures, and,
Today, the indigenous communities higher up, cool forests of cedar and
are relegated to the remote margins pine. Most of the mountain forests
of the Talamanca Mountains. are now protected, and national
Agricultural communities evolved parks and wildlife refuges provide
throughout the valley and, even- excellent opportunities for hiking
tually, farther up the mountain and wildlife viewing. Sights and
slopes. During the period of Spanish activities ranging from butterfly farms
rule, these humble adobe villages and coffee fincas to canopy tours
were relatively isolated, and even and world-class whitewater rafting
larger urban centers, such as Alajuela make the area a thrilling microcosm
and Heredia, garnered few structures of the countrys tourist attractions.
The striking Iglesia de Sarch, standing in Sarchs main square
Rafting on Ro Pacuare, one of the worlds finest whitewater rafting destinations

Exploring the Central Highlands

Mountains surround this temperate region. Bustling
Alajuela is a good base for exploring Volcn Pos,
where it is possible to drive to the summit. Nearby is
Heredia, a center of coffee production. To the north-
west, the road to Sarch and Zarcero makes a superb
drive. Two other lovely drives are La Ruta de los
Santos and the Orosi Valley. Costa Ricas main pre-
Columbian site, the Monumento Nacional Guayabo,
lies to the east of San Jos. For the more adventurous,
Reventazn and Pacuare Rivers are ideal for rafting,
while the cloud-forested upper slopes of the Pos,
Barva, and Turrialba Volcanoes offer great hiking The decorated interior of Iglesia
opportunities. Other options include coffee tours at de San Jos de Orosi
plantations such as Caf Britt and the Doka Estate.
La San Ciudad
Fortuna Lorenzo Quesada
LA PAZ WATERFALL
GARDENS
BOSQUE DE PAZ
RESERVE Bajos del Toro
ZARCERO Volcn Pos
8,850 ft
LOS ANGELES PARQUE Vara
RESERVE NACIONAL Blanca
Angeles VOLCN POS
HER
A L A J U E L A SARCH
Sacramento
Naranjo DOKA
San Ramn ESTATE
GRECIA
Palmares BARVA
ALAJUELA
Puntarenas ZOO AVE PARK CAF
Orchid, Jardn Botnico La Garita BRITT
Lankester
Atenas Juan HEREDIA
Santamara
LA GUCIMA International
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Reserva Forestal
Airport SAN
el Rodeo Escaz
Parque Nacional Tapant- Alajuelita
Towns and Villages UNIVERSIDAD
Macizo la Muerte f Santiago de DE PAZ Aserr
Alajuela 1
Parque Nacional Volcn Puriscal
Barva y
Cartago pp935 i Iraz k
Parque Nacional Volcn San Gabriel
Grecia 5 Cangriejal
Heredia r Pos q
La Gucima 3 Parque Nacional Volcn Teruel S A N
Turrialba j Concepcion
San Isidro de Coronado u J O S
Sarch 6 Areas of Natural Beauty Caspirola
Turrialba g ta
Bosque de Paz Rain/ rri
Zarcero 8 Pa
Cloud Forest Biological R o
Sites and Buildings of Interest Reserve 9
Monumento Nacional Jardn Botnico Lankester o
Guayabo pp1045 h La Paz Waterfall Gardens w
Universidad de Paz 4 Los Angeles Cloud KEY
Forest Private Biological Pan-American Highway
Coffee Estates Reserve 7
Caf Britt t The Orosi Valley pp98100 d Major road
Doka Estate 0 San Gerardo de Dota a Secondary road
Zoo Ave Wildlife Minor road
National Parks Conservation Park 2
Parque Nacional Braulio Scenic route
Carrillo e Tour
Provincial border
Parque Nacional Los La Ruta de los Santos
Quetzales p p97 s Peak

T H E C E N T R A L H I G H L A N D S 83
Panoramic view from the slopes of Volcn Iraz
PARQUE NACIONAL
BRAULIO CARRILLO
0 km 10 SEE ALSO
Where to Stay pp2036
EDIA 0 miles 10
Where to Eat pp2279
R o
Su
io PARQUE NACIONAL
c
Alto Palma
VOLCN TURRIALBA
SAN ISIDRO Volcn Turrialba
DE CORONADO 10,950 ft
Volcn Iraz
11,260 ft MONUMENTO
PARQUE NACIONAL NACIONAL GUAYABO
VOLCN IRAZ
JOS Pacayas TURRIALBA
R o
Desamparados CATIE
Pa
Ro Lake Angostura
Rev e
cua r e
CARTAGO nta z n
Paraso Hacienda
Atirro
JARDN BOTNICO Cach
LANKESTER Ujarrs Chirrip
San Hacienda
Grano de Oro Abajo
Orosi
Cristbal Sur OROSI VALLEY
Tapant C A R T A G O
San Pablo PA R QU E
de Len Corts TA PA NT NAC
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LA RUTA DE L A M - M A C I N A L re
UER ZO ua
LOS SANTOS TE ac
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San Marcos Santa Mara R

de Tarraz de Dota G ra
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PA R Q U E Or
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de El General
Na
GETTING AROUND
Ro
Juan Santamara International Airport is on the outskirts

of Alajuela, 1 mile (1.6 km) from the Pan-American High-
way, which links the Central Highlands with the Pacific
coast. Its easiest to explore the region by car. However,
rtulos (directional signs) are few, and its easy to get lost.
Avoid nighttime driving and beware of potholes, sharp
bends, and fog at higher elevations. Public buses run
between most towns and to places of interest, but service
can be erratic. Organized tours are available, and private
guides and transfers can be arranged from San Jos. View of a small town near Grecia
Alajuela 1 Environs
Southeast of Alajuela, Flor de
Road Map D3. 12 miles (19 km) Mayo is a breeding center for
NW of San Jos. * 45,000. k @ green and scarlet macaws.
( Sat. _ Da de Juan Santamara These endangered birds are
(Apr 11); Festival de Mangos (Jul). raised for release into the wild.
Sitting at the base of Volcn P Museo Cultural y Histrico

Pos, this busy market town Juan Santamara
Calles Central/2 and Ave 3.
is Costa Ricas third largest
Tel 2441-4775. # 10am5:30pm
city. The mango trees that TueSun. 8 TueFri. 7
shade the main square, Plaza www.museojuansantamaria.go.cr
del General Toms Guardia,
are the source of Alajuelas O Flor de Mayo An enclosure at Zoo Ave Wildlife
Ro Segundo de Alajuela, 2 miles (3
nickname, City of Mangoes. Conservation Park
km) SE of Alajuela. Tel 2441-2658.
Centered on a triple-tiered # by appointment. & by donation.
fountain with cherubs at www.hatchedtoflyfree.org Zoo Ave is also a breeding
its base, the plaza has a center and has successfully
bandstand, and benches raised endangered species
with built-in chess sets. It is such as green and scarlet
dominated by the simple, Zoo Ave Wildlife macaws. The breeding
domed Catedral de Alajuela, center and wildlife rehabilita-
with a Classical faade. More
Conservation tion are off limits.
interesting is the Park 2
Baroque Iglesia
Santo Cristo de Road Map D3. Hwy 3, La Garita, La Gucima 3
la Agona, five 2 miles (3 km) E of Pan-Am Hwy.
blocks east, which Tel 2433-8989. @ from San Jos Road Map D3. 7.5 miles (12 km)
dates only from (SatSun at 8am) & Alajuel. S of Alajuela. * 15,500. @
1935. The interior # 9am5pm daily. & 7 0 =
boasts intriguing www.zooave.org The sprawling community
murals. The of La Gucima is renowned
former jail, one With the largest collection for The Butterfly Farm,
block north of of tropical birds in Central which supplies live pupae
the main plaza, America, Costa Ricas fore- to zoos all over the world.
houses the Museo most zoo covers 145 acres Visitors can enjoy the splen-
Cultural y (59 ha). The privately owned did sight of some 60 native
Histrico Juan zoo is one of only two in the butterfly species flitting
Iglesia Santo Santamara, world to display resplendent around a netted tropical
Cristo de la honoring the quetzals. More than 60 other garden. Learn about lepidop-
Agona local drummer- native bird species can be teran ecology on an educa-
boy who gave seen in large flight cages. tional 2-hour tour. Sunny
up his life torching William Mammals are represented mornings, when butterflies
Walkers hideout in the War by deer, peccaries, pumas, are most active, are the best
of 1856 (see pp445). Call tapirs, and the four native times to visit.
ahead to arrange a screening monkey species. Crocodiles, Horse-lovers will find a visit
of a video about the event. caimans, and snakes are to Rancho San Miguel, on
A bronze statue of Santamara, among the dozens of reptile the outskirts of La Gucima,
rushing forward with rifle species found here. worthwhile. This stable and
and flaming torch, stands in Many of the animals and stud farm raises Andalusian
tiny Parque Juan Santamara, birds were confiscated from horses and offers horseback
which is two blocks south of poachers, or rescued by the riding lessons, as well as a
the main plaza. National Wildlife Service. dressage and horsemanship
show in the manner of the
Lipizzaners of the Spanish
Riding School at Vienna.
O The Butterfly Farm
Gucima Abajo, 330 yd (300 m) SE
of Los Reyes Country Club. Tel 2438-
0400. # 8:30am4:30pm daily. &
8 8:45am, 11am, 1pm, and 3pm.
7 - = www.butterflyfarm.co.cr
O Rancho San Miguel
2 miles (3 km) N of La Gucima.
Tel 2439-0909. # 9am5pm daily;
by reservation. & Shows 7:30pm
on Sat (NovJul). 0
Interior of Alajuelas Museo Cultural y Histrico Juan Santamara
Costa Ricas Colorful Butterflies

A lepidopterists dream, Costa Rica advertise this to potential predators
has more than 1,250 butterfly through distinct coloration
species. The butterfly population typically black striped with
increases with the onset of the white, red, and/ or yellow
rain from May to July, when that other species mimic. Some
breeding activity peaks. Most A moth species are colored mottled brown and
species of butterfly feed on of Costa Rica green to blend in with the
nectar, although some prefer background. Several butterfly
rotting fruit, bird droppings, and even species move seasonally between
carrion. Butterflies discourage predators upland and lowland, while others
through a variety of means. Many, such migrate thousands of miles: the black-
as the Heliconiinae, which eat plants and-green Uranidae flits between
containing cyanide, taste acrid; they Honduras and Colombia every year.
BUTTERFLY FARMS
These let visitors stroll through netted
enclosures where dozens of species
fly, forage, and reproduce. Some
farms breed butterflies for export.
Caterpillars, the larvae of moths and

butterflies, start feeding the instant they
emerge from the eggs. These voracious
eaters sport impressive camouflage and
defenses. Many have poisonous spikes;
one species even resembles a snake.
A chrysalid is created when a caterpillar attaches

itself to a leaf or twig and its body hardens to form an
encasement. Some caterpillars spin cocoons of silk;
others roll leaves into cylinders, tying them with silken
threads. They then pupate and emerge as butterflies.
TYPES OF BUTTERFLIES
With 10 percent of all known butterfly species in
the world, Costa Rica has lepidopteria ranging from
tiny glasswings with transparent wings, to the giants Morphos are dazzling, neon-bright
of the insect kingdom, such as teal-blue morphos. butterflies whose iridescent upper wings
flash with a fiery electric-blue
Malachite butterflies sheen in flight. The wings are
change size and color actually brown, not blue. The
between the wet and
illusion is caused by the tiny,
dry seasons.
layered, glass-like scales on
the upper wing. There are
more than 50 species of Morphos
this neotropical butterfly. wing
The postman
feeds on poisonous
Owl-eyes hindwings passion flower
resemble the startling leaves as a cater-
Swallowtails, found in open face of an owl, includ- pillar, making the
habitats and rainforest, have ing two huge black, butterfly bad-
trailing hindwings. yellow-ringed eyes. tasting to predators.
town is famous for its

wooden furniture, leather
rocking chairs, and hand-
painted oxcarts, decorated
with signature floral motifs
and geometric designs. The
whitewashed buildings of
Sarch Norte, the town center,
are graced by similar motifs.
Dont miss the pink-and-
turquoise Iglesia de Sarch in
the town plaza. One of its
Grecias striking red-colored church, Iglesia de Grecia twin spires is topped by a
trademark oxcart wheel.
plates. Trimmed in white Craft stores and muebleras
Universidad de filigree, the church has (furniture workshops) are
Paz 4 twin spires and a concentrated in Sarch
wooden interior with Sur, 0.5 mile (1 km)
Road Map D3. 8 miles (13 km) W an elaborate marble altar. east. A good place to
of Escaz. @ to Ciudad Coln, then Close to Grecia, buy souvenirs is Fbrica
by taxi. Tel 2205-9000. # 8am the open-air World de Carretas Joaqun
4:30pm MonFri. & 8 by appt. 7 of Snakes displays Chaverr (see p239).
Handmade stool,
0 Thu, Fri, Sat. www.upeace.org 300 snakes. Visitors Fbrica de Carretas Decorative oxcarts
are allowed to Joaqun Chaverr of various sizes are
A United Nations institution, handle the non- painted in tallers
the University of Peace venomous species. (workshops) at the rear.
(UPAZ) enjoys an idyllic More fascinating is Taller Eloy
setting on 750 acres (300 ha) O World of Snakes Alfaro, the only remaining
donated by the owners of 0.5 mile (1 km) SE of Grecia. taller in the country that
Hacienda Rodeo, a cattle Tel 2494-3700. # 8am4pm daily. actually makes oxcarts.
&8-=
estate and forest reserve on Sarch is popular with tour
www.theworldofsnakes.com
which the campus is located. groups avoid visiting the
Founded in 1980, the uni- town on weekends.
versity is dedicated to
research and education for Sarch 6 = Fbrica de Carretas
the promotion of peace. Joaqun Chaverr
The botanical gardens Road Map C3. 18 miles (29 km) Sarch Sur. Tel 2454-4411.
NW of Alajuela. * 11,000. @ # 8am6pm daily.
within the campus contain
n Plaza de la Artesana, Sarch Sur. 870=
busts of famed pacifists such http://sarchicostarica.net
as Mahatma Gandhi, Russian _ Festival de las Carretas (Feb).
novelist Alexey Tolstoy, and = Taller Eloy Alfaro
164 yd (150 m) N of Sarch Norte.
Henry Dunant, founder of the The countrys foremost crafts
Tel 2454-4131. # 6am6pm
Red Cross. Particularly moving center is set in the midst of MonFri. 8 7
is the life-size statue Peace coffee fields on the southern
Pilgrim by Fernando Calvo, flank of Volcn Pos. The
dedicated to Mildred N. Ryder
(190881), who, from age 44 Los Angeles Cloud
until her death, walked for
the cause of world peace. Forest Private
Trails lead into the Reserva Biological Reserve 7
Forestal el Rodeo, a 4.6-sq-
mile (12-sq-km) primary Road Map C3. 20 miles (32 km)
forest reserve sheltering deer, NW of Sarch. Tel 2461-0643.
monkeys, wild cats, and more @ to San Ramn, then by taxi.
than 300 species of birds. # 8am4pm daily. 8 0 =
Providing easy access to a

Grecia 5 cloud forest environment, this
3-sq-mile (9-sq-km) reserve
Road Map C3. 11 miles (18 km) reverberates with the calls of
NW of Alajuela. * 14,000. @ aricaris, bellbirds, and three
species of monkeys. Wild
A peaceful market town cats prowl the mist-shrouded
founded in 1864 and recently forests, which range from
voted the nations cleanest 2,300 ft to 5,900 ft (700
town, Grecias claim to fame 1,800 m) in elevation and are
is the Iglesia de Grecia, made Iglesia de Sarch, which contains accessed by a comprehensive
of rust-red prefabricated steel fine statuary by local artisans network of trails classified by
The impressive topiary archway on the central path of Parque Francisco Alvardoa, Zarcero
length and degree of difficulty. fanciful forms: an ox and cart, connects Parque Nacional
The reserve has horseback an elephant with lightbulbs for Volcn Pos (see p90) with
rides, guided hikes, and a eyes, a helicopter and airplane, remote Parque Nacional Juan
canopy tour (see pp245). a bullfight with matador and Castro Blanco. Some 14 miles
El Silencio de Los Angeles charging bull, and even a (22 km) of trails lead through
Reserve is an extension of monkey riding a motorcycle. primary and secondary forest,
Cloud Forest Reserve. Clouds An Art Noveau-style topiary which span rain-sodden
swirl around the colonial farm- archway frames the central montane growth to cloud
house here, which sits atop the pathway, which leads to a forest at higher elevations.
Continental Divide and houses simple white-washed church The prodigious rainfall feeds
the Villablanca Cloud Forest with a painted interior. the reserves many waterfalls,
Hotel & Spa (see p204). Near- as well as the streams that
by, the tiny La Mariana chapel rush past a hummingbird
has a high ceiling covered Bosque de Paz and butterfly garden.
with hand-painted tiles, each On clear days, miradores
devoted to a different female
Rain/Cloud Forest (viewpoints) offer fabulous
saint. Outside, an effigy of Biological Reserve 9 vistas, as well as a chance
the black saint San Martn de to spot sloths, wild cats,
Porres welcomes visitors. Road Map C2. 9 miles (14 km) and howler, capuchin, and
E of Zarcero. Tel 2234-6676. @ to spider monkeys. A favorite
O El Silencio de los Angeles Zarcero, then by taxi. # 9am4pm of bird-watchers, the reserve
0.5 mile (1 km) NW of Los Angeles daily; only by appointment. & 8 has more than 330 species
Cloud Forest Reserve. Tel 2461- www.bosquedepaz.com of birds, including resplen-
0300. # 8am5pm daily. & -
dent quetzals and three-
www.villablanca-costarica.com
Set deep in the valley of the wattled bellbirds.
Ro Toro on the northern Meals and accommodation
slopes of Volcn Platanar, this are offered in a rustic log-and-
Zarcero 8 4-sq-mile (10-sq-km) reserve riverstone lodge (see p204).
Road Map C3. 14 miles (22 km)

NW of Sarch. * 3,800. @ TRADITIONAL OXCARTS
_ Feria Cvica (Feb). The quintessential symbol of Costa Rica, the traditional
carreta (oxcart) was once a regular feature on farmsteads
This quiet mountain town, and for transporting coffee beans. The wheels, about 4 ft to
at an elevation of 5,600 ft 5 ft (1.21.5 m) in diameter and bound with a metal belt,
(1,700 m), has a spectacular are spokeless. In the mid-19th century, the carts began to be
setting, with lush pastures painted in bright colors enlivened with stylized floral and
and forested mountains all geometric starburst designs. Metal rings were added to strike
around. It is renowned for the hubcab and create a
its cheese, called palmito. chime unique to the cart
At the heart of the town, when in motion. Though
the main attraction is Parque still made in the tradition-
Francisco Alvardo, a spacious al manner, almost all of
park with well-tended todays carretas are purely
gardens and topiary features. decorative; miniature
Since 1960, gardener Don versions serve as liquor
Evangelisto Blanco has been cabinets. Full-size oxcarts
transforming the parks can cost up to $5,000. A hand-painted oxcart, Sarch
cypress bushes into various
Parque Nacional caldera (collapsed crater,

see p153), which is 895 ft
Volcn Pos q (300 m) deep and a mile
(1.6 km) wide. It contains
Road Map D1. 23 miles (37 km) an acidic turquoise lake,
N of Alajuela. @ from Alajuela sulfurous fumaroles, and a
and San Jos. n Tel 2482-2165. 245-ft (75-m) tall cone that
# MayNov: 8am3:30pm daily. began to form in the 1950s.
during phases of volcanic activity. On clear days, it is possible
&87-=0 to get magnificent views of
both the Caribbean Sea and
The nations most visited the Pacific Ocean.
national park was inaugurated The dormant Botos crater,
on January 25, 1971. Covering to the southeast, is filled by
25 sq miles (65 sq km), the the jade-colored Botos Lake,
park encircles Volcn Pos accessed by a trail that leads
(8,850 ft/2,700 m), a restless through forests of stunted
giant that formed more than myrtle, magnolia, and laurel
one million years ago and is draped with bromeliads and
A vast expanse of coffee plants ephemerally volatile, with mosses. Over 80 species of
on the Doka Estate peak activity occurring in birds, such as fiery-throated
an approximately 40-year hummingbirds, emerald
Doka Estate 0 cycle. The volcano had a toucanets and resplendent
minor eruption in March quetzals, have been identified
Road Map D3. Sabanilla de Alajuela, 2006, and a 6.2 Richter in the forests. Mammal
7 miles (11 km) N of Alajuela. earthquake on January 9, species include margays and
@ from Alajuela. Tel 2449-5152. 2009 devastated much of the Pos squirrel, which is
& 8 9am, 10am, 11am, 1:30pm, the immediate region. endemic to the volcano.
2:30pm, and 3:30pm MonFri; 9am, The gateway to the park Facilities at the national
10am, 11am, 1:30pm, and 2:30pm is the mountain park include
Sat & Sun; reservation recommended. hamlet of Poasito. an exhibition
7 - = www.dokaestate.com The summit of the hall for
volcano is reached audiovisual
Located on the lower slopes by an immensely presentations,
of Volcn Pos, this coffee scenic drive, a shop and a
finca was founded in 1929 which winds Toucans at caf. Clouds
by merchant Don Clorindo along coffee fields, Parque Nacional typically
Vargas. Still owned by the horticultural gardens, Volcn Pos form by midmorning,
Vargas family, the estate has and dairy pastures, so it is best to arrive
some 6 sq miles (15 sq km) with spectacular views early. Bring warm clothing:
planted in coffee bushes and back down the valley. From the average temperature at
employs about 200 perma- the parking lot, a 5-minute the summit is 12C (54F),
nent employees; an additional walk along a paved path but cloudy days can be
3,000 temporary workers are leads to the rim of one of the bitterly cold. If possible, visit
hired during the harvest worlds largest active craters. midweek locals wielding
season, which lasts October A viewing terrace grants blaring radios crowd the
through January. visitors an awe-inspiring park on weekends. Tour
The Doka Estate, which still view down into the heart operators offer guided
follows the time-honored of the hissing and steaming excursions to the park.
tradition of drying coffee
beans by laying them out in
the sun, welcomes visitors
eager to learn about coffee
production and processing
(see pp3031). A guided tour
of the beneficio, which dates
from 1893 and is a National
Historic Landmark, starts on a
delicious note with a coffee-
tasting session. The tour
demonstrates the various
stages involved in coffee
production and ends in the
roasting room. The estate
offers splendid views down
the slopes and across the
valley. There is a small hotel
nearby (see p205). Botos Lake in a dormant volcano, Parque Nacional Volcn Pos
A view of the magnificent crater of Volcn Pos

La Paz Waterfall
Gardens w
Road Map D2. Montaa Azul,
15 miles (24 km) N of Alajuela.
Tel 2482-2720. @ from San Jos.
# 8am5pm; last admission:
4pm. & 8 0 =
www.waterfallgardens.com
This multifaceted attractions

main draw is five thunderous
waterfalls plummeting
through deeply forested
ravines on the northeast
slopes of Volcn Pos.
Paved pathways lead down-
hill through pristine forest to Water merging with sulfuric flow, Parque Nacional Braulio Carillo
the cascades, where spray
blasts visitors standing on re-creation of a traditional to torrential rains. It protects
viewing platforms located farmstead with staff in period five life zones, including
above, below, and in front costume. Renowned ornithol- cloud forest at higher
of the falls. Access to some ogists lead birding tours. elevations. Wildlife is diverse,
falls involves negotiating The parks restaurant has with 135 mammal species,
metal staircases, and the a veranda with marvelous 500 species of birds, and
climb back uphill requires views over the valley and many species of snakes.
a degree of stamina. forest. Deluxe accommo- The main entrance to
The landscaped grounds dations are available at the the park is the Quebrada
feature the Hummingbird Peace Lodge (see p205). Gonzlez ranger station,
Garden, which draws 26 located 8 miles (13 km) north
species of hummers about of the Zurqui ranger station
40 percent of the nations Parque Nacional (closed to visitors), near the
57 species. A self-guided Braulio Carrillo e Rainforest Aerial Tram (see
tour is aided by informative p159). The most rewarding
educational posters. As many Road Map D2. Gupiles Hwy, hiking is around the summit
as 4,000 butterflies flit about 23 miles (37 km) N of San Jos. of Volcn Barva, on the west
the Butterfly Garden, and @ San JosGupiles. n Puesto side of the park and accessed
scores of macaws, toucans, Quebrada ranger station, Hwy 32, by 4WD via the Puesto Barva
and other birds can be seen Tel 2233-4533. # 8am4pm Tue ranger station above the
in a walk-through aviary Sun. & village of Sacramento. From
enclosed by a massive here, a trail leads through the
netted dome the length Named for Costa Ricas spectacular cloud
of a football field. Other third chief of state, this forest to the crater.
attractions include a walk-in sprawling 185-sq-mile The dormant
ranarium displaying poison- (480-sq-km) park Barva has at least 13
dart and other frog species; ranges in elevation eruptive cones, several
a serpentarium, with dozens from 120 ft (36 m) of which are filled with
of snake species; and a at La Selva in the lakes. Tapirs can be
northern lowlands frequently seen around
to 9,500 ft (2,900 m) Danta and Barva Lakes.
at the top of Volcn Experienced
Barva. The Parque hikers can tackle
Nacional Braulio Margay at longer trails, taking
Carrillo is bisected Parque Nacional several days, which
by the Gupiles Braulio Carrillo descend the northern
Highway, which slopes via deep
links San Jos with Puerto canyons. There are no facilities,
Limn; indeed, it was the and proper equipment is
construction of this highway absolutely essential. Note that
that prompted the creation of there have been instances of
the park in 1978 to protect armed robberies and theft
the capitals major watershed. from cars parked near
Despite its proximity to San trailheads. Hikers must report
Jos, the park is one of the to the ranger stations when
nations most rugged, with setting out and returning.
mountains, dense rainforest Tour operators in San Jos
The Butterfly Garden in La Paz cover, and numerous can arrange half-day or
Waterfall Gardens waterfalls, plus it is subject full-day tours.
Caf Britt t
Road Map D3. Santa Luca, 0.5 mile
(1 km) N of Heredia. Tel 2277-1600.
@ organized transfers from San Jos.
& 8 mandatory; Dec 15Apr: 9am,
11am, and 3pm; MayDec 15: 9am
and 3pm. Concerts, lectures, films.
7 0 = www.coffeetour.com
A mecca for coffee lovers and

Stained glass at La Parroquia de la Imaculada Concepcin, Heredia one of the countrys most
visited tourist attractions, this
Heredia r steep upper slopes of Volcn beneficio (processing mill)
Barva are popular getaway roasts and packs gourmet
Road Map D3. 7 miles (11 km) NW spots for Josefinos for their coffees. Entertaining guided
of San Jos. * 42,500. @ 8 by crisp air and solitude. tours are led by
appointment. ( Sat. _ Easter Parade Tyrolean-style houses campesinos, played
in San Joaqun de Flores (Mar/Apr). set amid cypress and by professional actors
pine forests can be in period costume.
A peaceful and orderly town rented at Monte de la The guides home-
founded in 1706, Heredia has Cruz, a reserve with spun repartee unfolds
a smattering of important trails. In JulyAugust, a spellbinding love
colonial buildings at its heart Hotel Chalet Tirol story along with a
and a bustling student life, (see p205) hosts the fascinating education-
owing to the presence of a International Festival al narrative on the
branch of the University of of Music. To the history and produc-
Costa Rica (see p71). It is southeast of Heredia tion cycle of coffee,
centered on Parque Nicolas is the environmental Label of a Caf from the plantation
Ulloa, popularly called Parque park INBioparque, Britt product to the cup. Visitors
Central. Shaded by large with exhibits relating are led through the
mango trees, the park contains to conservation and biodiver- 6-acre (2.5-ha) coffee estates
numerous busts and monu- sity, including various re- before taking a hard-hat tour
ments. Dominating the park is creations of natural habitats. of the packing facility, where
the squat, weathered cathedral they breathe in the tantalizing
La Parroquia de la Imaculada E Casa de la Cultura aroma of roasting beans. The
Concepcin. Built in 1797, the Calle and Ave Central. tour ends in the coffee bar and
cathedral has a triangular Tel 2260-4485. # 9am9pm daily. dining room, after a multimedia
pediment, lovely stained-glass Y Ark Herb Farm presentation that highlights
windows, and a two-tone Santa Barbara de Heredia, 3 miles coffees role in cultivating
checkerboard floor of marble. (5 km) NW of Heredia. Tel 8846- Costa Rican democracy and
On the north side of Parque 2694. # 9am4pm daily, by appt. molding a national identity.
Central, the forecourt of the & 8 9:30am, by appt. =
municipality office features www.arkherbfarm.com
the Monumento Nacional a la Y INBioparque Barva y
Madre, an endearing bronze 3 miles (5 km) SE of Heredia.
sculpture of a mother and Tel 2507-8107. # 8am4pm Road Map D3. 2 miles (3 km) N of
child by Miguela Brenes. TueFri, 8am5pm Sat & Sun. Heredia. * 4,900. @ from Heredia.
Adjoining the Municipalidad, 870-= _ Festival de San Bartolom (Aug 24).
www.inbioparque.com
to the west, the colonial-era
Casa de la Cultura occupies One of the countrys oldest
the home of former president settlements, this quaint town
Alfredo Gonzlez Flores was founded in 1613, with
(18771962). It is now an art the official name San
gallery and a tiny museum. Bartolom de Barva. Located
Nearby is El Fortn, an inter- at the base of Volcn Barva,
esting circular fortress tower the town contains many simple
built in 1876. 18th-century adobe houses
with traditional red-tile roofs.
Environs The flower-filled and palm-
A popular attraction in the shaded town square, laid
lively town of Santa Barbara out in 1913, is graced by
de Heredia, northwest of the pretty Iglesia de San
Heredia, is the Ark Herb Farm. Bartolom de Barva, erected in
Its orchards and gardens 1867 on the site of an Indian
spread over 20 acres (8 ha). burial ground. It replaced two
The farm exports medicinal Visitors admiring tropical flowers at earlier churches felled by
herbs. North of Heredia, the Ark Herb Farm, near Heredia earthquakes. On the northeast
side is a grotto dedicated to style Basilica de Nuestra

the Virgin of Lourdes. Seora de los ngeles (see
The Museo de Cultura pp945), dedicated to Costa
Popular, on the outskirts of Ricas patron saint, La Negrita.
Barva, provides a portrait of Memories of the earthquake
late-19th-century life, with of April 13, 1910, remain in
period pieces laid out in the the ruins of the Iglesia de la
fashion of the times. The Parroquia, originally built in
building is a former home of 1575 and destroyed five times
ex-president Alfredo Gonzlez by earthquakes before its final
Flores. A part of the dung- demise. The mossy ruins now
and-straw adobe masonry is Sign of the Instituto Clodomiro form the centerpiece of a
exposed to view. The kitchen Picado, San Isidro de Coronado small garden adjoining the
serves traditional meals. stark central plaza.
E Instituto Clodomiro Picado
E Museo de Cultura Popular Tel 2229-0344. # 8am4pm
Santa Luca de Barva, just S of MonFri; only for groups & by appt. Jardn Botnico
Barva. Tel 2260-1619. # 8am
4pm MonFri, by appt Sat & Sun.
7 www.icp.ucr.ac.cr Lankester o
Road Map D3. 4 miles (6 km)
San Isidro de Cartago i E of Cartago. Tel 2552-3247.

@ from Cartago. # 8:30am
Coronado u Road Map D3. 13 miles (21 km) 4:30pm daily. & 7 = www.
E of San Jos. * 120,000. @ jardinbotanicolankester.org
Road Map D3. 6 miles (10 km) NE of _ Corpus Christi (May/Jun); Da de
San Jos. * 8,400. @ _ Festival Nuestra Seora de la Virgen de los Operated by the University of
de San Isidro Labrador (May 15). ngeles (Aug 2). Costa Rica as a research center,
these luxuriant botanical
Clinging to the western slopes Costa Ricas first city and gardens were founded in 1917
of Iraz volcano, San Isidro original colonial capital by English horticulturalist and
de Coronado is an agricultural was founded in 1563 by coffee-planter Charles Lankester
center boasting the largest conquistador and Spanish West. Covering 27 acres
Gothic church in the country. governor Juan Vsquez de (11 ha), they display almost
The Parroquia de San Isidro, Coronado (see p42). 3,000 neotropical species in
which soars over the towns Named for the Spanish separate sections dedicated
tree-shaded plaza, was prefab- word for Carthage, it to specific plant families.
ricated in Germany in 1930 lost its capital status The highlight is the
and erected in situ, being to San Jos at the orchid collection,
completed in 1934. The town Battle of Ochomogo spread throughout the
also hosts the Instituto Clodo- in 1823. The city An orchid in Jardn garden. The 1,100
miro Picado, part of the Univer- was destroyed when Botnico Lankester species are best seen
sity of Costa Rica and one of Volcn Iraz erupted in the dry season,
the worlds foremost research in 1723. Most of the especially from Feb-
centers into snake venom. subsequent colonial structures ruary to April. Pathways snake
San Isidro is a gateway to were felled by violent through a bamboo tunnel, a
Iraz Volcano National Park via earthquakes in 1841 and swathe of premontane forest,
an unbelievably scenic route 1910. Despite its size, the city a medicinal plant garden, a
through Rancho Redondo. today has limited appeal, and cactus garden, a butterfly
The road snakes along the is an agro-industrial center. garden, and a Japanese
mountainsides, granting However, Cartago remains garden. Visitors are given an
spectacular vistas over San Jos the nations religious capital, orientation talk before setting
and the Central Highlands. centered on the Byzantine- out on a self-guided tour.
The weather-beaten ruins of Iglesia de la Parroquia, Cartago

Cartago: Basilica de Nuestra Seora de los ngeles

Named in honor of the countrys patron saint,
the Virgin of Los ngeles (also called La
Negrita), Cartagos Cathedral of Our Lady
of the Angels is Costa Ricas most important
church. Legend has it that on August 2, 1635,
a mulatto peasant girl called Juana Pereira
found a small figurine of a dark-skinned
Virgin Mary on a rock. The statue was put
Detail on away in safe custody twice and mysteriously
pillar returned to the rock both times. The basilica
was built to mark the spot. Destroyed in 1926
by a massive earthquake, it was rebuilt in 1929. The
impressive Byzantine-style edifice features a stone
exterior with a decorated faade and is topped by an
octagonal cupola. A spring flowing beneath the basilica Side Altars
is considered to have curative powers. The side altars contain a
series of shrines to saints such
as San Antonio de Padua,
San Cayetano, San Vicente
. La Negrita Statue de Paul, and the black saint,
The 8-inch (20-cm) San Benito de Palermo.
high statue of Mary, There are also life-size
the discovery of which statues of Jesus, Mary,
supposedly led to the and Joseph.
construction of the
church, is installed in
a shrine above the
main altar. The shrine
is encrusted with gold
and precious stones.
Faade
The faade has Moorish-
style arches and fluted
pilasters capped by angels.
THE LA NEGRITA PILGRIMAGE

Every August 2, devout Costa Ricans join in the Da de
Nuestra Seora de la Virgen de los ngeles procession.
Thousands walk the 15 miles (24 km) from San Jos to
Cartago many crawl much of the way on their knees;
others carry crosses. Devotees descend to the subter-
ranean Cripta de la Piedra to touch the rock and collect
holy water from the underground spring. The statue of
La Negrita is paraded through the city before being
replaced in its shrine. Pilgrims and tourists outside the church
The Ceiling VISITORS CHECKLIST

The wooden ceiling is
centered on an octagonal, Calle 14/16 and Aves 2/4,
Cartago. Tel 2551-0465. @
wood-paneled dome ringed
from San Jos (Calle 5 and Aves
by windows through which 18/20). # 6am7pm daily.
sunlight pours in, illumi- 5 regular services throughout
nating the nave and the day. 7
producing a sense of
religious exaltation.
. The Nave
The walls are made
The elaborate interior in the
of galvanized steel shape of a double cross is
stuccoed with cement. made entirely of hardwoods,
painted with decorative
floral patterns of white
alabaster. Parabolic arches
are supported atop clover-
leaf-shaped wooden pillars.
The Cripta de la Piedra (Crypt of the Rock) is the

subterranean shrine containing the rock where the La
Negrita statue was supposedly found. Entered via a ramp
to the rear of the basilica, it is filled with votive offerings.
Stained-Glass Window
The basilica boasts several fine
STAR FEATURES vitrales (stained-glass panes)
. The Nave depicting biblical scenes. The
finest are in the Sacristy, in the
. La Negrita Statue southeast corner, and depict
Jesus with various saints.
Cloud forest in the Parque Nacional Los Quetzales
Parque Nacional Boruca indigenous group from most abundant. More than
southern Costa Rica. 170 other bird species are
Los Quetzales p present seasonally.
O Dantica Cloud Forest Dramatic scenery, crisp air,
Road Map D3/D4. Pan-Am Hwy, 47
Lodge and blissful solitude reward
miles (76 km) SE of San Jos. @ to
Tel 2740-1067. # 24 hrs. & 8 the few travelers who take
Km 80, then hike. Tel 2200-5354. #
0 www.dantica.com the time to make the sharp
8am4pm daily. & www.sinac.go.cr
descent into San Gerardo de
Bordering the Pan-American Dota. Fruits grow in profusion
Highway is the Parque San Gerardo de in orchards surrounded by
Nacional Los Quetzales, Dota a meadows and centenary oaks.
created in 2005 from the Los About 22 miles (35 km)
Santos Forest Reserve, the Road Map D4. 5.5 miles (9 km) W of of trails crisscross the forest.
Biological Reserve of Cero de Pan-Am Hwy at Km 80. * 1,000. Activities include guided treks
las Vueltas, and various state @ to Km 80, then hike or arrange from the frigid heights of
properties. The park covers a transfer (call 8367-8141). Cerro Fro (Cold Mountain)
12,355 acres (5,000 ha) of at 11,400 ft (3,450 m) to San
cloud forest, spread over the One of the best sites in Costa Gerardo de Dota at 7,200 ft
banks of the Rio Sevegre. This Rica for quetzal-watching, this (2,200 m). Other trails lead
is one of the most biologically small community is tucked along the banks of the
diverse regions in Costa Rica, into the bottom of a steep val- gurgling river, which is
with 25 indigenous species, ley furrowed by Ro Savegre. stocked with rainbow trout.
116 species of mammals, man- Go down a switchback from
groves, and lagoons of glacial the Pan-Am Highway to reach O Savegre Mountain Hotel
origins. One of the highlights, the town, which was first Biological Reserve
Tel 2740-1028. 8 -
however, are the quetzals for settled in 1954 by Don Efran
www.savegre.co.cr
which the park is named. Chacn and his family. Today,
Other birds include sooty the Chacns Savegre
robins and hummingbirds. Mountain Hotel
Dantica Cloud Forest Lodge, Biological Reserve
which is just north of San protects around
Gerado de Dota, has trails 1,000 acres (400 ha)
running through primary cloud of cloud forest and
forest in which peccaries, deer, houses the Quetzal
tapir, otters, ocelots, and Education Research
pumas have all been sighted. Complex (QERC).
Danticas three-room This study center for
indigenous art gallery exhibits quetzal ecology is
jewelry, textiles, ceramics, the tropical campus
statues, and masks from such of the Southern
nations as Peru, Venezuela, Nazarene University
and Colombia. There are of Oklahoma. April to
also masks and natural-dye May is nesting season, Savegre Mountain Hotel Biological Reserve,
cotton bags produced by the when quetzals are San Gerardo de Dota
La Ruta de los Santos s TIPS FOR DRIVERS
South of San Jos, the Cerro de Escaz rise Tour length: 95 miles (153 km)
steeply from Desamparados to the town of Aserr. round-trip.
Stopping-off points: Stop for
Twisting roads then pass through San Gabriel, a bite at the charming Bar Res-
San Pablo de Len Corts, San Marcos de Tarraz, taurante Vaca Flaca (see p228)
Santa Mara de Dota, and San Cristbal Sur in the or the homey La Casona de Sara
steep-sided coffee country known as Tarraz. in Santa Mara (see p229).
These off-the-beaten-track communities named Information: Beneficio Coope-
for saints Gabriel, Paul, Mark, Mary, and dota Tel 2541-2828. Beneficio
Christopher give this fabulously scenic drive Coopetarraz Tel 2546-6098.
through verdant highlands and valleys its apt www.cafetarrazu.com
name, Route of the Saints.
Desamparados 1
This town is dominated
by its handsome church
in Neoclassical style. 3AN*OS
b
Aserr 2 !LAJUELA
The mountainside
above Aserr offers
superb vistas across
the valley toward
Barva, Iraz, and
J
Turrialba Volcanoes. San Cristbal Sur 7

This is the setting for the Santa Mara de
mountain farm where Dota 6
Figueres (see p47) prepared This tidy towns plaza
to launch the 1948 revolution has a granite monument
that resulted in civil war. commemorating those
b
4ARBACA who died in the 1948
civil war. The Beneficio
Coopedota accepts visi-
tors by reservation
for plantation tours.
3AN
!NDREAS
b
b %MPALME
*ARDIN b
San Gabriel 3
Occupying a mountain spur
overlooking Ro Tarraz, this
town is dominated by a white
church with a domed roof.
San Pablo de Len Corts 4

The Iglesia de San Juan de la Cruz, J
built in 1997, towers above the 0 km 3
plaza in this coffee center.
0 miles 3
KEY San Marcos de Tarraz 5

Tour route Surrounded by coffee-
covered slopes, the regions
Highway
most important town boasts
Other road a fine church. Arrange a
visit to Beneficio Coopetar-
Viewpoint
raz coffee mill in advance.
The Orosi Valley d
South of Cartago, the land falls away steeply into the

Orosi Valley, a large gorge hemmed to the south by the
Talamanca Mountains. Ro Reventazn drains the valley
and joins Lago de Cach, also fed by other streams and
raging rivers tumbling out of hills enveloped by cloud
forest. Shiny-leafed coffee bushes cover the valley,
which was an important colonial center and has two
of Costa Ricas oldest religious sites. The ruins of the
17th-century church in the village of Ujarrs, set at the
edge of Lago de Cach, are the highlight of a visit to
the valley. Orosi village is home to the countrys oldest
extant church. The valleys social life centers on this
tranquil hamlet. Looping around the Orosi Valley is
Route 224, which passes the main points of interest View of the spillways of Cach
and makes for a perfect half- or full-day tour. Dam on Lago de Cach
CARTAGO
J
Mirador Ujarrs
Paraso
b
Mirador de Orosi
b
Sanchiri
lient
aca
R o A g u
e
Mirador de Orosi
Operated by ICT (Instituto Costarricense de Turismo), this Orosi b
mirador (viewpoint) offers stunning views over the valley

and has picnic tables on lawns abuzz with hummingbirds.
Ro Macho b
ho
ac
M
R o
KEY
Major road
Other road
Orosi Trail
Surrounded by coffee plantations and peppered with
waterfalls, the picturesque village of Orosi is known for Viewpoint
the colonial-era Iglesia de San Jos de Orosi, which con- Boating
tains a small museum of religious art. Orosi has several Campsite
thermal mineral springs called balnearios (see p100).
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road Map D3. Cartago. *
14,000. @ hourly from Cartago
to Orosi. Buses also run to Cach
via Ujarrs. n 2533-3640 (Orosi
Tourism). _ Romera Virgen
de la Candelaria (3rd Sun of
Apr), Orosi Colonial Tourist Fair
(Sep). La Casona de Cafetal
# 11am6pm daily. 7 Monte
Sky Mountain Retreat Tel
2231-3536. # 8am5pm daily.
Ujarrs
This village has all but vanished after being flooded in
1833. It is known for the ruins of the Iglesia de Nuestra
Seora de la Lmpia Concepcin, built in 1693 (see p100).
Presa de
Cach Paradero Lacustre
b
Charrarra offers picnic
areas, a swimming pool,

and recreational and

h
a
c
sport facilities (see p100).
C
Ujarrs
b
La Casona de Cafetal,
Cachi a lakeside coffee finca,
e
d
b
offers hiking trails and
o
horseback rides.
Lag
b
Loaiza
Casa el Soador
0 km 1 This is the home of the Quesada
family famous woodcarvers
0 miles 1
whose naive bas-relief art forms
adorn their property (see p100).

os
Ro Or
Gr ande de Tapant
b
Purisl
b
PA R Q U E N ACIONAL Lago de Cach

Ro Pu
TA PA N T -M ACIZO Trout-fishing is popular in this lake,

D E LA M UERTE
r is
l created to generate hydroelectric power

by damming Ro Reventazn (see p100).

Monte Sky
Mountain Retreat
Monte Sky Mountain Retreat protects a 139-acre

(56-ha) area of cloud forest. Trails lead to water-
falls and offer a chance to spot quetzals. There
are also facilities for tent camping. A 4WD
vehicle is required to get here.
Exploring the Orosi Valley Orosi. Orosis pride is the

beautifully preserved Iglesia
The first colonists arrived in the valley of de San Jos de Orosi, the
Ro Reventazn in 1564 to convert the oldest functioning church in
indigenous Cabcar people who were Costa Rica. Built by Franciscans
led by a cacique (chief) named Orosi. in 174366 and dominated by
The valley soon became an important a solid bell tower, the white-
washed church has withstood
religious center. It is the colonial relics several earthquakes, despite
that draw visitors to the region, but the its plain adobe construction.
Wood carving,
scenery is no less appealing. Route 224, The interior features a
Iglesia de San which encircles the valley, brings in an beamed ceiling, terra-cotta
Jos de Orosi ever-increasing number of tourists. floor, and simple gilt-adorned
wooden altar. The Franciscan
monastery adjoining the
church is now the Museo
de Arte Religioso, displaying
period furniture and religious
icons dating back three
centuries. Most of the items
such as paintings, statuary,
and altar pieces come from
Mexico and Guatemala.
} Lago de Cach
Paradero Lacustre Charrarra
1.6 mile (2 km) E of Ujarrs. Tel 2574-
7557. # 8am5pm daily. & 7
0 Casa el Soador 5 miles (8 km)
Iglesia de San Jos de Orosis interior, dominated by wood and terra-cotta E of Orosi. Tel 2574-7557. # 9am
6pm daily. www.charrarra.com
Ujarrs pilgrims walk to the shrine This massive lake was
8 miles (13 km) SE of Cartago. from Paraso, which is 4 miles created between 1959 and
Located at the edge of Lake (6 km) to the west, in honor 1963, when the ICE (Costa
Cach and surrounded by of the Virgin. Rican Institute of Electricity)
coffee bushes, the hamlet of dammed Ro Reventazn.
Ujarrs features the ruins of Orosi The Presa de Cach (Cach
the Iglesia de Nuestra Seora 5 miles (8 km) S of Paraso. * 8,862. Dam) funnels water down
de la Lmpia Concepcin, Balnearios Termales Orosi Tel 2533- spillways to feed massive
completed in 1693. The ruins 2156. # 7:30am4pm WedMon. hydroelectricity turbines.
stand in a charming garden & 0 Museo de Arte Religioso Visitors can enjoy kayaking,
awash with tropical flowers. Tel 2533-3051. # 15pm TueFri, canoeing, and boating on
The site previously housed 9am5pm Sat & Sun. & 7 R ^ the lake, arranged by local
the shrine La Parroquia de Nestling neatly on the banks tour operators. The national
Ujarrs. According to legend, of Ro Grande de Orosi, this tourist board operates
a converted Indian found a small village is a coffee grow- Paradero Lacustre Charrarra,
wooden box containing a ing center. Mineral hot a recreational complex offer-
statue of the Virgin Mary. He springs gush from the hill- ing boating from the north
carried it to Ujarrs, where it sides and can be enjoyed in shore. Horseback riding is
suddenly became too heavy orderly and well-maintained also on offer.
for even a team of men to lift. pools at Balnearios Termales On the southern shore is
The local priest considered Casa el Soador (Dreamers
this a sign from God that a House), the pretty bamboo-
shrine should be built here. and-wood home of sculptor
When pirates led by Henry Macedonio Quesada Valern
Morgan attacked the region (193294). Carved figures
in 1666, local inhabitants representing the town gossips
prayed at the shrine for lean out of the upper-story
salvation. A defensive force windows and a bas-relief of
led by Spanish governor, Juan Leonardo da Vincis The Last
Lopez de la Flor, routed the Supper adorns the exterior.
pirates and in gratitude built Macedonios sons carry on
a church in honor of the their fathers tradition of carv-
Virgen del Rescate de Ujarrs ing walking sticks, religious
(Virgin of Rescue). Damaged figures, and ornaments from
in a flood in 1833, the church coffee plant roots. The house
was thereafter abandoned. Ruins of Nuestra Seora de la serves as an art gallery for the
Every third Sunday in April, Lmpia Concepcin, Ujarrs works of other local artists.
Turrialba g (see p102). Hotel Casa Turire,

on the south shore of Lake
Road Map E3. 27 miles (44 km) E of Angostura, is a charming
Cartago. * 32,000. @ deluxe hotel offering biking,
hiking, horseback riding,
This pleasant regional center and many other activities
squats in a broad valley on (see p205).
the banks of Ro Turrialba at East of Turrialba, the Centro
2,130 ft (650 m) above sea Agronmico Tropical de
level, against the base of Investigacin y Enseanza
Volcn Turrialba (see p103). (CATIE), or Center for Tropical
Once an important transporta- Agriculture Investigation and
tion hub midway between Learning, has trails through
San Jos and the Caribbean, 3 sq miles (9 sq km) of land-
Turrialba had to forego that scaped grounds, forests, and
position with the opening of orchards, which grow exotic
the Gupiles Highway in fruits, plus a botanical garden.
1987, and cessation of rail A lake attracts waterfowl.
service in 1991. Rusting rail- Guided tours provide fascinat-
A waterfall at Parque Nacional road tracks serve as reminders ing insights into ecology
Tapant-Macizo la Muerte of the days when the and animal husbandry.
Atlantic Railroad Farther east
Parque Nacional thrived. is Parque
There is little Viborana, a
Tapant-Macizo of interest in the serpentarium
la Muerte f town; its importance that exhibits several
lies in being a center Wooden tortoise, species of snakes,
Road Map D3. 5.5 miles (9 km) S of for kayaking and Turrialba including boas, in a
Orosi. Tel 2200-0090. @ to Orosi, then rafting trips on Ro large walk-in cage.
by jeep-taxi. # 8am4pm daily. & Reventazn and Ro Pacuare, The guided tour includes a
and serving as a good base for lecture on snake ecology.
South of the Orosi Valley, exploring nearby attractions. Women in traditional dress
the vibrantly green Tapant- can be seen at Reserva
Macizo National Park, created Environs Indgena Chirrip, an incred-
in 1982, protects 225 sq miles The valley bottom southeast ibly scenic indigenous reserve
(583 sq km) of the Talamanca of Turrialba is filled by the in the Talamanca Mountains
Mountains. Ranging in eleva- 630-acre (255-ha) Lake beyond Moravia del Chirrip,
tion from 3,950 ft to 8,350 ft Angostura, created by the southeast of Turrialba.
(1,200 2,550 m). It features building of a dam in 2000 to
diverse flora, from lower generate hydroelectricty. It O Centro Agronmico
montane rainforest to lures several species of water- Tropical de Investigacin
montane dwarf forest on the fowl and is a water sports y Enseanza (CATIE)
upper slopes. The national center, although it is gradually 1.2 miles (2 km) E of Turrialba.
Tel 2556-2700. 8 7am4pm
park is deluged with rains being choked by water daily (Jardn Botnico). 7 0
almost throughout the year, hyacinths. Ro Reventazn - = www.catie.ac.cr
which feed the fast-flowing (Exploding River) below the
rivers rushing through it; dam has class IIIIV rapids O Parque Viborana
Pavones, 5.5 miles (9 km) E of
February to April are the and is fabulously scenic, as
Turrialba. Tel 2538-1510. # 9am
least rainy months, and is the nearby Ro Pacuare, 5pm daily. & 8 by appt. =
the best time to visit. also favored by rafters
Spectacularly rich in
wildlife, the park has animals
such as anteaters, jaguars,
monkeys, tapirs, and even
otters in streams. Tapant is a
birders heaven more than
260 bird species inhabit its
thick forests. Resplendent
quetzals frequent the thickets
near the ranger station, which
has a small nature display.
Well-marked trails lace the
rugged terrain. A particularly
pleasant and easy hike is
Sendero La Catarata, which
leads to a waterfall. Fishing
in the park is permitted from
April to October. Casa Turire, a delightful hotel near Turrialba
Whitewater Rafting
Costa Rica boasts rivers that are guides. Trips can be anything from half
perfect for whitewater rafting. The a day to a week-long, catering to
best of the runnable rivers flow every level of experience: rivers are
down from the mountainous Central ranked from Class I (easy) to Class
Highlands to the Caribbean, cas- VI (extremely difficult). May, June,
cading through narrow canyons September, and October are the
churned by rapids, and inter- best months, when heavy rainfall
spersed with calm sections. gives rivers an extra boost. Rafting
Small groups paddle downstream is organized by professional oper-
in large purpose-built rubber Rafter in a ators who provide gear, meals,
dinghies, led by experienced life-jacket and accommodations (see p251).
Costa Ricas whitewater rivers offer

an extraordinary combination of
scenic beauty, wildlife sightings, and
thrills. One of the finest rafting destina-
tions, Ro Reventazn (left) caters to
enthusiasts of differing skill levels, with
separate sections that have difficulty
ratings ranging from Class II to V.
Rafters should wear T-shirts, Guides steer and Safety gear such as
shorts, and sneakers or san- give commands life-jackets and helmets
dals, and carry spare clothes. from the rear. are mandatory.
Calm stretches provide ample

scope for wildlife viewing
kingfishers, parrots, toucans,
RAFTING DOWN RIO PACUARE caimans, iguanas, and
Torrential Ro Pacuare is ranked among the worlds top five varieties of monkeys are
whitewater rivers. Rafting trips of varying duration take thrill- among the easily seen fauna.
seekers on adrenaline-packed rides along thickly forested,
wildlife-rich gorges, rushing currents, and amazing rapids.
Riverside stops are arranged

for hearty breakfasts and
Numerous waterfalls pour Pounding rapids are found all lunches. Overnight halts in
down the sides of the rivers along the length of the Rio wilderness lodges or tents on
gorges. Some fall hundreds of Pacuare, and offer spectacular longer trips also offer oppor-
feet, showering rafters with whitewater rides ranked Class tunities for hiking and
cool water on hot days. III and IV in difficulty. soaking in the scenery.
Monumento
Nacional
Guayabo h
See pp1045.
Parque Nacional
Volcn Turrialba j
NW of Turrialba. @ to Santa Cruz,
then by jeep-taxi. n 2273-4335
(Volcn Turrialba Lodge). &
The easternmost Volcano

in Costa Rica, the 10,950-ft
(3,340-m) high Turrialba has
been dormant for more than a
century following a period of
violent activity in the 1860s.
The volcanos name comes
from the Huetar Indian words
turiri and ab, which togeth-
er mean river of fire. Local
legend says that a girl named
Cira, lost while exploring, was
found by a young man from a Deep green lake in the largest crater of Parque Nacional Volcn Iraz
rival tribe, and they fell in love.
When the girls enraged father
eventually found the two
Parque Nacional called on the gods for their
aid. The volcano erupted,
lovers and prepared to kill the Volcn Iraz k spewing fire on the enemy,
young suitor, Turrialba spewed while a boiling river of mud
a tall column of smoke, Road Map D3. 19 miles (30 km) N swept away their village.
signifying divine assent. of Cartago. Tel 2200-5025. @ from The road to the summit
Established in 1955, the Ave 2, Calles 1/3, San Jos, 8am winds uphill past vegetable
Turrialba Volcano National daily. # 8am3:30pm daily. & fields. A viewing platform lets
Park protects 5 sq miles visitors peer down into a
(13 sq km) of land, much of Encircling the upper slopes 985-ft (300-m) deep, 0.5-mile
which is covered in cloud of Volcn Iraz, this 7-sq- (1-km) wide crater, containing
forest. The upper forests mile (18-sq-km) park was a pea-green lake. Four other
contain gnarled and twisted established in 1955. At craters can be accessed, but
oak and myrtle trees. 11,260 ft (3,430 m), the cloud- there are active fumaroles,
Dirt roads go to within a covered Iraz is Costa Ricas and the marked trails should
few miles of the summit, highest volcano, and histori- be followed. Although the
which is then accessible by cally its most active the first volcano is often covered by
trails. Stamina is required for written reference to an fog, the cloud line is
the switchback hike to the eruption was in 1723. frequently below the
top. From there, it is possible Several devastating summit, which basks
to see the Cordillera Central explosions occurred in bright sunshine.
and the Caribbean coast in between 1917 and Arriving early increases
clear weather. A trail also 1921, and it famously the chances of clear
descends to the floor of the erupted on March 13, weather and good
largest crater, where sulfurous 1963, when US views. The lunar land-
gases hissing out of active President John F. scape of the summit
fumaroles and heat radiating Kennedy was in the Signage at includes a great ash
from the ground betray the country to attend the Parque Nacional plain called Playa
tremendous energy of Summit of Central Volcn Iraz Hermosa. Hardy veg-
the dormant giant. America Presidents. etation, such as myrtle
There are no public facilities The name Iraz is derived and the large-leaved poor
or transport within the park, from the Indian word istar, mans umbrella, maintains
but the privately run Volcn which means mountain of a tenuous foothold against
Turrialba Lodge (see p206), thunder. Legend has it that acidic emissions in the bitter
on the western flank of the Aquitaba, a local chief, sacri- cold. Wildlife is scarce,
volcano at 9,200 ft (2,800 m), ficed his daughter to the vol- although it is possible to spot
provides a base from which cano gods. Later, in a battle birds such as the sooty robin
to explore the area. with an enemy tribe, Aquitaba and endemic volcano junco.
Monumento Nacional Guayabo h
Proclaimed a national monument in 1973, Guayabo, on

the southern slope of Volcn Turrialba, is the nations
most important pre-Columbian site. Although minor in
scale compared to the Mayan remains of Mexico, the
540-acre (218-ha) site, which is still shrouded in mystery,
is considered to be of great cultural and religious
significance. Believed to have been inhabited between Petroglyphs
1500 BC and AD 1400, Guayabo is said to have The most noteworthy of the
supported a population as high as 10,000, before being petroglyphs scattered around
abandoned for reasons unknown. The jungle quickly the site are along the Sendero
reclaimed the town, which was discovered in the late de los Montculos. The Mono-
18th century by naturalist Don Anastasio Alfaro. The litho Jaguar y Lagarto has a
peaceful site, most of which is yet to be excavated, has lizard on one side and, on
mounds, petroglyphs, walled aqueducts, and paved the other, a spindly bodied
roads. Pottery, gold ornaments, flint tools, and other finds jaguar with a round head.
are displayed in San Joss Museo Nacional (see p70).
Premontane rainforest
Cisterns surrounding the site hosts
Rectangular water hundreds of bird species,
tanks are situated in the such as aracaris and
oropendolas.
western side of the settle-
ment, and are spanned
by a three-slab bridge.
The stone
aqueducts, forming
a network of covered and
uncovered channels,
continue to feed water
into stone-lined cisterns.
EXCAVATED SITE
Initiated in 1968, excavation
of the site was led by arche-
ologists from the University
of Costa Rica. To date, only
about 12 acres (5 ha) have
been retrieved. Parts of the
causeway and key structures
have been rebuilt, and
restoration work is ongoing.
Sendero de los Montculos STAR SIGHTS

A 1-mile (1.6-km) self-guided trail leads from the entrance
to a lookout, El Mirador Encuentro con Nuestro Origenes . Calzada (Causeway)
(The Encounter with Our Origins Lookout), before dropping
. Montculos (Stone
down to the main archeological site. Along the way, visitors
can stop at 15 interpretive points that explain the social Foundations)
organization of the Guayabo tribe.
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road Map E3. 12 miles (19 km)
N of Turrialba. Tel 2559-1220.
@ from Turrialba. # 8am
3:30pm daily. & 8 7
www.sinac.go.cr
. Montculos (Stone Foundations)

Believed to date from AD 300700, the
circular and rectangular mounds of
stone on the site were the foundations
of conical wooden structures.
. Calzada (Causeway)
The 21-ft (6.5-m) wide
The largest causeway is believed to have
mound
extended between 2.5 and
measuring 98 ft
(30 m) in
7.5 miles (412 km) from
diameter and the main town. About
15 ft (4.5 m) in 246 yd (225 m) have been
height is thought reconstructed, including
to have been a base two rectangular stone
for the house of the structures thought to have
local cacique (chief). been used as sentry posts.
PLAN OF SITE
Sendero Los Cantarillos, usually used for
returning to the entrance, snakes uphill to
Aqueducts
the ranger station. It is good for spotting
animals and birds. BKJUBT
-
3P
El
Mirador
Encuentro
3P-B
$IBODIFSB
0 meters 25
0 yards 25
5633*"-#"
$"35"(0
Sendero de
los Montculos
KEY
CAMPGROUND
Excavated site Monolitho Jaguar y Entrance,
Lagarto Ranger Station
T H E C E N T R A L PA C I F I C A N D
S O U T H E R N N I C O YA
F
ine white beaches are scattered along the shores of Southern
Nicoya, while the sun-drenched Central Pacific coastline is
pummeled by non-stop surf and fringed with forest. The region
acts as a transition between two ecosystems the drier Meso-American
to the north and the humid Andean to the south with flora and
fauna of both ecosystems. As a result, its wildlife reserves, such as
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio, are among the nations best.
Mangroves line the shores Puntarenas, was founded in the
of the Gulf of Nicoya, early 1800s. It flourished due to
which is studded with the 19th-century coffee
islands that are important trade, and developed into
nesting sites for birds. Forest the nations main port for
areas, notably in Southern Nicoya, coffee exports to Europe. In
were heavily denuded during the last the early decades of the 20th
century, but major conservation and century, bananas were plant-
reforestation efforts are now extending ed along the narrow coastal plain
the protected areas. farther south. They were replaced in
Spanish conquistadors explored the the 1970s by African oil palms,
region in the early 16th century and which today dominate the economy
established short-lived settlements, and extend for miles between the
which fell victim to tropical diseases shore and forested mountains. In
and the ferocious resistance of recent decades, Jac has blossomed
indigenous tribes. However, the as a beach resort for surfers, while
Indians were swiftly defeated. The the town of Quepos retains its
principal city of the region, stature as a major sportfishing base.
Locals waiting for the bus in a small town in Southern Nicoya
Yacht on the serene blue waters off Playa Blanca, on Costa Ricas Pacific coast
Exploring the Central Pacific and

Southern Nicoya
Beaches and national parks, teeming with wildlife, are the highlights of this
region. The main town is the fishing port of Puntarenas, from where it is possible
to take a day-trip by ferry to Isla Tortuga with its fabulous beach. Other fine
beaches in Southern Nicoya await at off-the-beaten-track Montezuma and Malpas,
which are popular with surfers and budget travelers. Nearby Cabo Blanco is the
site of the nations oldest wildlife refuge. Inland from the Central Pacific coast,
nature lovers can enjoy a crocodile safari on Ro Trcoles and hikes in Parque
Nacional Carara, where scarlet macaws, monkeys, and other wildlife can be easily
spotted. Major attractions along this coast are the lively surfing town of Jac and
the sportfishing center of Quepos, which gives access to Parque Nacional Manuel
Antonio, one of the countrys most popular wildlife parks.
Caas
Isla
Isla Bejuco Isla
Venado Caballo PUNTARENAS
Barranca
Jicaral
Lepanto Isla
San Lucas Caldera
Ro Jua Naranjo Reserva Biolgica
de Isla Guayabo
n
Leo
Isla
Golfo
n
Cedros
Ro Bongo
Guadalupe
Paquera
REFUGIO NACIONAL Reserva
Biolgica de
DE VIDA
Ario
Islas Negritos
SILVESTRE CUR
ISLA
Ro
TORTUGA
Manzanillo TAMBOR Nicoya
Playa Playa Tambor
Manzanillo Cbano
Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco

Playa Carmen MONTEZUMA
Santa Teresa
MALPAS Cabuya
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
RESERVA NATURAL ABSOLUTA
Towns and Villages CABO BLANCO
Isla Cabo
Jac 9 Blanco
Malpas 7
Montezuma 5
Puntarenas 1
Quepos w
Tambor 4
National Parks and Reserves

Parque Nacional Carara 8
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
pp11819 e
Refugio Nacional de Vida
Silvestre Cur 2
Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo
Blanco 6
Areas of Natural Beauty

Boca Damas q
Isla Tortuga 3
Rainmaker Conservation
Project 0
A riot of colors at the Tango Mar Resort in the fishing
Valle del Ro Savegre r
village of Tambor

T H E C E N T R A L PA C I F I C A N D S O U T H E R N N I C O YA 109
Gleaming sportfishing boats lined up at Los Sueos Marina, near Jac
San Jos
Espirit Santo
San
Mateo
ALAJUELA
Coyolar Orotina
Santiago de
Puriscal
le
s
r co
T
o
R
Trcoles PARQUE NACIONAL
CARARA
Bijagual
Delicias n An eye-catching sportfishing sign at Quepos
o Tuli
S A N R J O S docks
Playa Herradura San Vicente

Herradura Gloria
JAC 0 km 10
Playa
Jaco
Tulin
PUNTARENAS 0 miles 10
Playa
RAINMAKER
as
Hermosa
j
ran
CONSERVATION
am
Parrita
D PROJECT
Na
Playas
Esterillos o
R
R o
Naranjito
Santo
BOCA DAMAS Londres Domingo
QUEPOS VALLE DEL RO
gre
SEE ALSO SAVEGRE

R o Save
PARQUE NACIONAL
Where to Stay pp2068 MANUEL ANTONIO Savegre
Islas
Where to Eat pp22931 Mogote
Hatillo
San Isidro de
El General
GETTING AROUND
Jac and Quepos, in the Central Pacific region, and Southern
Nicoyas Tambor are linked by daily scheduled flights to Juan
Santamara International Airport and San Joss Tobias Bolaos
domestic airport. Puntarenas, Jac, and Quepos are served by
bus from San Jos; several companies cater solely to tourists. KEY
Puntarenas is the gateway for ferries to Southern Nicoya. A
regular car and passenger ferry service links it with Paquera;
from here, a bus service operates to Montezuma along badly Major road
deteriorated Highway 160. In the Central Pacific region, well-
Secondary road
paved Highway 34 runs along the shore, linking all the major
tourist sights. Away from the coastal highways, most roads are Minor road
dirt tracks that can be treacherous during the wet season. A
Provincial border
4WD vehicle is essential if you plan to drive around.
The majority of the hilly

reserve is tropical deciduous
and semi-deciduous forest
populated by capuchin and
howler monkeys, anteaters,
agoutis, and sloths, as well as
several species of wild cats
and more than 220 species
of birds. Endangered spider
monkeys have also been
successfully reintroduced.
Since the number of visitors
is low, it is possible to spot
animals more easily than at
Fishing and excursion boats moored at the Puntarenas docks many other refuges. Marked
trails provide access.
Puntarenas 1 Environs Three beautiful beaches
The sweeping sands of Playa Playa Colorada, Playa Cur,
Road Map B3. 75 miles (120 km) San Isidro, 5 miles (8 km) east and Playa Quesera are tucked
W of San Jos. * 100,000. @ _ of town, are very popular with inside the fold of green head-
Carnaval (last week of Feb); Festival beachgoers from San Jos. lands and extend along 3 miles
de la Virgen del Mar (mid-Jul). During the weekend it can (5 km) of coastline. Hawksbill
become crowded. and olive ridley turtles crawl
Often seen as a provincial ashore at night to nest in the
backwater, the city of O Parque Marino del Pacifico sand. Whales and dolphins can
Paseo de las Turistas. Tel 2661-
Puntarenas (Sandy Point) was sometimes be seen swimming
5272. # 9am5pm TueSun. & 8
once an important port. First in the warm offshore waters,
by appt. www.parquemarino.org
settled in 1522 by the Spanish, while the mangrove swamps
Puntarenas later became the and lagoons that extend
main shipping point for coffee inland along Ro Cur are
beans, brought from the high- good for spotting caimans.
lands in carretas (oxcarts).
City fortunes waned in 1890,
once the Atlantic Railroad was Isla Tortuga 3
built, and many of its wooden
structures are dilapidated. Road Map B3. 2 miles (3 km) SE
Today this slightly down-at- of Cur. g organized excursions.
heel town exists on fishing, as 0-
attested to by rows of decrepit
fishing boats moored at the This sun-bleached island
wharves. It remains the main actually twin islets, Isla
gateway for excursions to Isla Tolinga and unoccupied Isla
Tortuga and for ferries to Alcatraz offshore of Cur is
Paquera and Naranjo, on run as a privately owned 765-
the Peninsula de Nicoya. acre (310-ha) nature reserve.
The town occupies a 3-mile Isla Tolinga, which has no
(5-km) long, thin peninsula Serene white beaches of Refugio overnight accommodation,
fringed on the south by a Nacional de Vida Silvestre Cur is very popular for day-visits.
beach offering good views Isla Tortuga is rimmed by
across the Gulf of Nicoya. A Refugio Nacional white beaches that dissolve
broad estuary runs along the into startlingly blue waters.
north shore, where extensive de Vida Silvestre Coconut palms lean over the
mangrove forests are home Cur 2
to waterfowl such as roseate
spoonbills, storks, pelicans, Road Map B3. 2 miles (3 km) S of
and frigate birds. Paquera. Tel 2641-0100. @ Paquera
Puntarenas is favored as a Cobano. # 7am4pm daily; but
balneario (bathing resort) by advance notice is preferred. & 8
Josefinos who flock to the by appt. 0 = www.curu.org
seafront boulevard, Paseo de
las Turistas. The boulevard Part of a much larger
also features the Parque privately owned hacienda,
Marino del Pacifico, an the seldom-visited 210-acre
aquarium housing 22 fish (85-ha) Cur National Wildlife
tanks and a selection of local Refuge has been set up to
wildlife from conservation protect five distinct habitats
projects, including crocodiles, extending inland from Catamaran Manta Ray transporting
sea turtles, and pelicans. Golfo Cur. visitors to Isla Tortuga
Kayaking on offer at Isla Tortuga, along with other beach activities and water sports
beach. The hilly interior is Tambor 4 abilities is on offer at the

covered by deciduous forest, nearby Playa Tambor Beach
accessed by a short but steep Road Map B3. 11 miles (18 km) SW Resort and Casino, which
trail that leads to the highest of Paquera. @ is affiliated to Barcel Los
point of the island (570 ft/ Delfines Club. The casino
175 m). Signs point out rare A small, laid-back fishing offers everything from slot
hardwoods, such as indio village with a wide silver- machines and Caribbean
desnudo (naked Indian). gray beach, Tambor lines the poker to American roulette.
The preferred activity is to aptly named Baha Ballena Other activities popular in
laze in a hammock while (Whale Bay), where whales Tambor include sportfishing
sipping the island cocktail gather in mid-winter. Palm- and horseback riding.
coco loco (rum, coconut milk, fringed sands extend from
and coconut liqueur) served the bay north to mangrove Environs
in a coconut shell. The warm swamps. The village itself is West of Tambor, the botanical
waters are great for snorkeling. somewhat somnolent, but two garden and nursery Vivero
There are no jet skis to break upscale resorts just outside Solera has a wide range of
the blissful silence, but visitors town attract a large number plants on display, as well as
can choose from an array of of foreign beachgoers and butterflies and hummingbirds.
other water sports. Josefinos, most of whom fly
Trips were pioneered in in to the local airstrip. Visitors
I Los Delfines Golf and
1975 by Calypso Cruises, can play a round of golf or d
b
rs.Country
i Club
which operates a 70-ft (21-m) a game of tennis for a fee 1 mile (1.6 km) E of Tambor.
motorized, high-speed cata- at the Tango Mar Resort Tel 2683-0294. & 0 - =
maran that departs from (see p208), which has a
Y Vivero Solera
Puntarenas. Other companies 9-hole golf course, or at the 2 miles (3 km) W of Tambor.
offer similar excursions, Los Delfines Golf and Country Tel 2642-0469. # 6am4pm
which usually include hotel Club, which has an 18-hole MonFri, 6amnoon Sat. & 8 =
transfers, round-trip transpor- course. Scuba diving for all
tation, and buffet lunch. The
90-minute journey is its own
reward dolphins and whales
are frequently spotted. A
mid-week visit is best, as
weekends can get crowded.
Environs
Boobies, pelicans, frigate
birds, and other sea birds nest
on the scattered islands that
comprise the Reserva Biolgica
Isla Guayabo y Isla Negritos,
to the north of Isla Tortuga.
Visitors are not allowed on
shore. Excursion boats pass
between the islets that make
up the biological reserve.
Calypso Cruises
Tel 2256-2727. & 0
www.calypsocruises.com
The lush greens of the golf courses of Tambor
Cabo Blanco is accessed from

the community of Cabuya, a
mile (1.6 km) along a rough
dirt road. It can also be
entered at Malpas. Tour
operators nationwide offer
excursions to the reserve.
Malpas 7
Road Map B4. 6 miles (10 km)
NW of Montezuma. @ from Cbano,
4 miles (6 km) N of Montezuma.
Bright signs adorning shop fronts in Montezuma village Its name may mean bad
land, but the Malpas areas
Montezuma 5 Reserva Natural Pacific shoreline is unsur-
passed for its rugged beauty.
Road Map B3. 16 miles (26 km) Absoluta Cabo Until a few years ago, the
W of Paquera. @ from Paquera. Blanco 6 region was unknown; today
it is a famed surfers paradise.
A favorite with budget Road Map B4. 6 miles (10 km) Named for their respective
travelers, this offbeat beach W of Montezuma. Tel 2642-0093. gray-sand beaches, three
community has a laidback @ MontezumaCabuya. Also taxis contiguous communities are
lifestyle, magnificent ocean from Montezuma. # 8am4pm strung along the dirt road that
vistas and beaches, and WedSun and public hols. & fringes the shore. Relaxed to
unpretentious yet hip bars. a fault, they are characterized
The compact village is Established in 1963 as the by colorful hotels, restaurants,
tucked beneath precipitous nations first protected area, and bars. The main hamlet is
hills and opens onto a rocky and elevated to the status of a Carmen, from where the road
cove with fishing boats reserve in 1974, the 4-sq-mile runs 2 miles (3 km) south,
bobbing at anchor. Two (10-sq-km) Cabo Blanco owes through Santa Teresa, to the
superb beaches Playa its genesis to the tireless fishing hamlet of Malpas,
Montezuma and Playa campaign of the late Olof which gives the area its
Grande unspool eastward, Wessberg and his wife Karen popular name. Beyond
shaded by tall palms and Morgenson; they also helped Malpas, where vultures perch
backed by thickly forested set up the Costa Rican Nation- on fishing boats, the beach
mountains. Swimmers al Park Service. Cabo ends amid tidepools and
should watch out for Blanco was initially fantastically sculpted rocks
the riptides. Sliding an absolute reserve, near the entrance to Cabo
between treetops on off-limits to all visitors, Blanco. A 4WD is required.
the Montezuma Canopy but today there is The best surf beach is
Tour is a safe, fun, and access to the eastern Playa Santa Teresa, merging
adrenaline-boosting part of the tropical for- in the north with playas that
activity, while Finca ests that cover the hilly are virtually uninhabited:
Los Caballos offers tip of the Nicoya Penin- Los Suecos, Hermosa, and
invigorating horseback sula. About 85 percent Manzanillo. Santa Teresa
rides in the hills abuting of the reserve is covered boasts the understatedly
the Reserva Absoluta by rejuvenated second- deluxe Florblanca Resort (see
Nicolas Weissenburg. ary forest and pockets p206), in stunning counter-
The reserve, however, Activities in of lowland tropical for- point to the budget options.
currently has no public Montezuma est. There are numerous
access. Clambering up monkeys, as well as
the waterfalls to the west of anteaters, coatis, and deer.
the village is unsafe; instead, The 3-mile (5-km) long
cool off in the pools at the Sendero Sueco trail leads
base of the waterfalls. to the beautiful Playa Cabo
Blanco; other beaches lie
O Montezuma Canopy Tour along the shore, but exploring
1 mile (1.6 km) W of Montezuma. should not be attempted
Tel 2642-0808. # daily. & 8
when the tide is rising.
8am, 10am, 1pm and 3pm. www.
montezumatraveladventures.com
Offshore, the sheer walls of
Isla Cabo Blanco are stained
} Finca Los Caballos white by guano deposited by
2 miles (3 km) NW of Montezuma.
colonies of nesting seabirds,
v 2642-0124. 8 9am daily.
0 www.naturelodge.net
including frigate birds and Surfer and sun-lovers on Playa
brown boobies. Santa Teresas Pacific shoreline
Wild Cats of Costa Rica

Costa Rica has six members spotted coats the jaguar,
of the wild cat family, found in the ocelot, the margay, and the
habitats that range from the extremely rare oncilla. Most
wetlands to alpine pramo species are as comfortable in
(grasslands). All are endangered the trees as they are on the
to a greater or lesser degree, ground, using branches as
and are difficult to sight. These catwalks in their search for
well-camouflaged, silent preda- arboreal rodents, monkeys, and
tors vary widely in size and other edible prey. Cats enjoy
An oncilla on
coloring. Of the six species the lookout superb vision, and are usually
found in Costa Rica, four have for prey active by both night and day.
Jaguars (jaguar), the largest of neotropical cats, were

worshipped by pre-Columbian peoples. They can
weigh up to 330 lb (150 kg). These formerly abundant
denizens of lowland rainforests and savannas are
threatened by deforestation
and poachers.
Jaguarundis (len breero)

tend to avoid deep rainforest,
preferring savanna and
lowland forests. These
cats have slender,
elongated bodies.
Ocelots (manigordo) are found

throughout the country. These
3-ft (1-m) long cats are
ground dwellers and often
follow human trails. Uniquely,
they have short tails, with black
and white rings.
Pumas (puma), although widely found in

Margays (caucel) are tree- Costa Rica, are rarely seen. They are
dwelling, nocturnal hunters. A large, slender, adaptable,
special ankle joint rotates 180 and solitary cats.
degrees, an adaptation for an
arboreal lifestyle. The oncilla is
a smaller cousin of the margay.
CAT IDENTIFICATION BEST PLACES TO SEE VISIBILITY
Orange or cobalt-gray coat

Jaguar PN Corcovado Elusive
with large black rosettes
Uniform coloring from rust to Most easily
Jaguarundi PN Santa Rosa
chocolate brown; long, feline tail spotted
House-cat sized; Relatively
Margay PN Corcovado
distinctively spotted visible
Gray coat heavily spotted with Relatively
Ocelot PN Corcovado
beige blotches ringed in black visible
Smaller and darker than PN Tapant and La Amistad Rare; unlikely
Oncilla
the margay; slim tail Biosphere Reserve to be seen
White throat; uniform coat PN Santa Rosa and
Puma Elusive
varies from gray-brown to red PN Guanacaste
the nations largest and most

party-oriented beach resort.
Palms shade the 2-mile
(3-km) long beach. Despite
this, its gray sands are
unremarkable, the sea is
usually a murky brown from
silt washed down by rivers,
and riptides make swimming
unsafe. Theres no shortage
of things to do, however
from crocodile safaris to
horseback rides and the
nightlife is lively. Many of the
nations top surfers live here,
although as a surf center,
Hiking through a lower elevation forest at Parque Nacional Carara Jac is best for beginners.
Outside town, the Pacific
Parque Nacional spectacular 600-ft (183-m) Rainforest Aerial Tram takes
drop of Catarata Manantial you on a 90-minute guided
Carara 8 de Agua Viva makes the ride through the treetops on
waterfall popular with hikers silent open-air gondolas. The
Road Map C3. 31 miles (50 km) SE who cool off in the pools at modified ski lifts skim the
of Puntarenas. Tel 2637-1054. @ from its base. Nearby, Jardn Pura forest floor, soar above giant
San Jos and Jac. # 7am4pm Vida has walking trails through trees, pass waterfalls, and
daily. & 7 www.sinac.go.cr 30 lush acres (12 ha). give fabulous views along the
Pacific coast. Guided tours
Occupying a climatological } Catarata Manantial de such as the Poison-dart Frog
transition zone where dry Agua Viva Trail, are also offered along
Bijagual, 4 miles (6 km) E of
northerly and humid southerly nature trails. Nearby, the
Trcoles. Tel 2645-1215.
ecosystems meet, Carara # 8am3pm daily. & 8
Waterfalls Canopy Tour lets
National Parks forests are you whiz between treetops
complex and varied. Despite Y Jardn Pura Vida on ziplines; it also has hiking
Bijagual. Tel 2645-1001.
its relatively small size trails and rappeling.
# 7am5pm daily. & 8 0
20 sq miles (52 sq km) the - = www.puravidagarden.com
park offers some of the most Environs
diverse wildlife viewing in Sportfishing and excursion
Costa Rica. Species from boats set out from Los Sueos
both the Meso-American and Jac 9 Marina at Playa Herradura, a
Amazonian environments are gray-sand beach tucked into
abundant, including the Road Map C4. 40 miles (65 km) a broad bay north of Jac.
endangered spider monkey S of Puntarenas. * 8,000. ~ @ The marina is part of the Los
and the poison-dart frog. The _ International Festival of Music Sueos Marriott Ocean & Golf
birding is spectacular, with (JulAug). Resort (see p208), which boasts
scarlet macaws being a major a championship golf course.
draw. They can be seen on Thriving on the surfer trade Perched on a headland
their twice-daily migration and that of Canadian snow- just north of Playa Herradura,
between the forest and birds escaping the northern Hotel Villa Caletas (see p207)
nearby coastal mangroves. winter, Jac has evolved as is the remarkable creation of
Cararas lower elevation
forests have easy-to-walk
trails that begin at the
roadside visitor center; the
longest is 5 miles (8 km)
around. Guides can be hired
to access pre-Columbian sites.
Several tour operators in San
Jos arrange day visits.
Environs
Carara is a Huetar Indian
word for crocodile. The
reptiles are easily seen from
the highway as they bask on
the banks of Ro Trcoles.
Safaris are offered from
Trcoles, 2 miles (3 km)
southwest of Carara. The The gray sands of palm-fringed Playa Jac
French designer Denis Roy. A

long ridgetop driveway lined
with Roman urns has dramatic
vistas out to sea and also pro-
vides a striking entry to this
deluxe restaurant and hotel.
Musicians perform in a Greek-
style amphitheater built into
the hillside, a setting for the
International Festival of Music.
The Serenity Spa offers pam-
pering treatments. A winding
track leads down to Playa
Caletas, a rocky beach with A small lizard at the Rainmaker Conservation Project
a bar and grill. South of Jac,
Playa Hermosa is served by 2 sq miles (5 sq km) on the tops forming an aerial walk-
dedicated surf hostels. Sand flanks of the Fila Chonta way. The longest bridge is
bars provide consistently good Mountains. The reserve is at 170 ft (50 m) long. These are
breaks swelling in from deep an average altitude of 5,600 ft perfect vantage points for
waters offshore. (1,700 m), and protects four spotting sloths, monkeys,
distinct ecological habitats, iguanas, toucans, and scores
O Pacific Rainforest Aerial including montane cloud of other species, including the
Tram forest at higher elevations. extremely rare harlequin toad.
2 miles (3 km) E of Jac. There are several hiking
Tel 2257-5961. # 9am4pm
trails and a river walk, which
Mon, 6am4pm TueSun. & 8
- = www.rainforestram.com
leads through the Ro Seco Boca Damas q
canyon to a sparkling pool
O Waterfalls Canopy Tour safe for bathing. A steep Road Map D4. 33 miles (53 km)
2 miles (3 km) NE of Jac. S of Jac. @
climb leads uphill to the
Tel 2643-3322. 8 8am, 11am,
and 2pm daily. &
canopy trail, with suspension
www.waterfallscanopy.com bridges slung between tree- Crisscrossed by countless
sloughs and channels, this
vast manglare (mangrove)
complex extends along the
Rainmaker shoreline between the towns
Conservation of Parrita and Quepos, at the
estuary of Ro Damas. Coatis,
Project 0 pumas, white-faced monkeys,
and several species of snakes
Road Map D4. Pocares, 4 miles inhabit the dense forests.
(6 km) E of Hwy 34, 28 miles Crocodiles and caimans lurk
(45 km) S of Jac. Tel 2777-3565. in the tannin-stained waters.
@ organized transfers. & Stilt-legged shorebirds and
8 only; 8:45am, 10:45am, and boat-billed herons, with their
12:45pm MonSat. 0 = curious keel-shaped beaks,
www.rainmakercostarica.com pick among the mudflats in
search of molluscs.
A trail through the rainforest Tour operators in Quepos
canopy forms the highlight offer kayaking excursions.
of this private reserve and Signs identifying flora at the Guides offer boat trips from
conservation project, covering Rainmaker Conservation Project the small dock at Damas.
CROCODILE SAFARI
Indiscriminate hunting during the past 400 years has resulted
in a decimation of the American cocodrilo (crocodile)
population. Since gaining protected status in 1981, however,
crocodiles have managed to make a comeback. They can
be seen in rivers throughout the Pacific lowlands, but are
nowhere so numerous as near the mouth of Ro Trcoles,
where populations of more than 200 crocodiles per mile have
been counted. Boats depart from the village of Trcoles, near
the mouth of the river, for 2-hour crocodile-spotting safaris
upriver. The reptiles, which grow up to 16 ft (5 m) in length,
often approach to within a few feet. Keep your hands in the
boat. You can also expect to see roseate spoonbills, scarlet Crocodiles seen from a bridge
macaws, and dozens of other Costa Rican bird species. over Ro Trcoles, Puntarenas
A relaxed cafeteria and ice cream bar on a downtown Quepos street
Quepos w through 40 acres (16 ha) palms at its lower levels.

teeming with sloths, raccoon- Farther up the valley lies
Road Map D4. 34 miles (55 km) S of like coatis, leafcutter ants, the rural community of El
Jac. * 12,000. ~ @ _ Carnaval and phenomenal birdlife. Silencio, where the local
(FebMar). www.quepolandia.com The Ro Naranjo Valley farmers cooperative operates
extends east of Quepos into an ecotourist center called
Traditionally a game fishing the Fila Nara Mountains. The Coopesilencio. It offers horses
base and center for the pro- ruins of a Spanish mission, for rides down rustic trails
duction of African palm oil, established in 1570, still stand into a nature reserve, and
Quepos has blossomed as a by the roadside. Whitewater has a wildlife rescue center
tourist center and a gateway rafting trips are a popular with scarlet macaws, deer,
to Parque Nacional Manuel excursion from Quepos. and monkeys.
Antonio. Relatively quiet by Farther up the valley, Rancho Modeled on a South
day, the town buzzes at night Los Tucanes offers guided African safari camp, Rafiki
when its numerous bars and horseback and 4WD tours of its Safari Lodge (see p208) is set
restaurants come alive. vanilla and pepper plantations. atop a ridge overlooking the
On the north side of town, Trails lead through montane Savegre. It makes a great base
Boca Vieja village has wooden rainforest to the 295-ft (90-m) for hiking, birding, and horse-
huts, which are linked by high Los Tucanos waterfall. back riding, as well as for
flimsy walkways that over- exhilarating whitewater rafting
hang the brown sands of O Fincas Naturales Wildlife and kayaking trips on Ro
Playa Cocal. In the hills to Refuge & Butterfly Garden Savegre. A 4WD vehicle is
the south, quaint clapboard 1 mile (1.6 km) S of Quepos. essential for negotiating the
homes recall the 1930s, when Tel 2777-0850. # 6am8pm daily; rugged track, which is often
the Standard Fruit Company butterfly garden: 8am4pm daily. inundated in the wet season.
established banana planta- & 8 www.butterflygardens.co.cr
tions. Panama disease killed } Rancho Los Tucanes O Coopesilencio
them off, and today African Londres, 7 miles (11 km) 25 miles (40 km) SE of Quepos.
oil palms dominate the coastal NE of Quepos. Tel 2777-0775. Tel 2779-9554. # 9:30amnoon
# 7am3pm daily. 8 and 13:30pm daily. & 8 0
plains for miles around.
www.rancholostucanes.com www.turismoruralcr.com
Environs
South of Quepos, a two-lane
road winds over steep head-
Parque Nacional
lands to the hamlet of Manuel Manuel Antonio e
Antonio, fronted by Playa
Espadilla, a wide scimitar of See pp11819.
gray sand. At the north end
of the beach is a lagoon with Valle del Ro
crocodiles. Restaurants, bars,
and hotels line the route, in- Savegre r
cluding El Avin, a converted
Fairchild C-123 transport plane, Road Map D4. 15 miles (25 km)
which was used by the CIA in SE of Quepos. @ from Quepos.
the 1970s to run arms to the
Nicaraguan Contras (see p135). Cutting inland into the Fila
Nearby, Fincas Naturales San Bosco Mountains, the
Wildlife Refuge & Butterfly Ro Savegre Valley is covered Plantations of African oil palms in
Garden offers easy walks by plantations of African oil the Valle del Ro Savegre
Sportfishing on the Pacific Coast

The ultimate draw for the best off the Golfo de Papagayo.
game-fishing enthusiast, Costa In the dry season (December
Ricas waters witness the setting April), when high winds in the
of new International Game Fish Golfo de Papagayo make the waters
Association records every year. dangerous, the best fishing is
More anglers have claimed grand Fishing
lure
found farther toward the south,
slams both species of marlin and out of the year-round marinas of
one or more sailfish in a single day Quepos, Baha Drake, and Golfito.
on the countrys Pacific coast than in Angling on the Caribbean coast is
any other place on earth. In the wet different: inshore fishing using light
season (MayNovember), fishing is tackle is the norm here (see p251).
ORGANIZED FISHING TRIPS

Sportfishing vessels often journey 20 miles (32 km) or more
from shore to find game fish. Hooking a fish is only the
beginning. The real sport lies in the fight that ensues.
Anglers strap themselves

into the fighting chair
to bring in larger species. Charter shops and fishing
Fights sometimes take lodges abound in Costa Rica.
hours and can tire the Apart from hiring out boats,
angler almost as much they can also arrange fishing
as the fish. licenses for visiting anglers.
A catch-and-release
policy is usually
followed by sportfishing
operators in Costa Rica.
However, maritime laws
designed to protect fish
stocks from commercial
over-exploitation are
poorly enforced.
DEEP SEA FISH

A wide variety of game fish await the keen angler on Costa
Ricas Pacific coast. Angling is possible year-round, but
there are prime areas and peak seasons for each species.
Yellowfin tuna are extremely Wahoo are long, sleek, and

powerful, weighing up to 350 lb explosively fast fish that are
(160 kg). They are found in found in northern waters
warm currents year-round, between May and August.
but JuneOctober is best.
Blue marlins are considered

the ultimate prize. The Bull
Dorado (also called dolphin- Sailfish, hard-fighting giants of the Ocean puts up a fight
fish or mahimahi) have scales up to 7 ft (2 m) long, and like no other. Females weigh
that flash a wide range of known for their spectacular up to 1,000 lb (455 kg); males
colors. This dramatic fighter leaps when hooked, are plen- are smaller. AugustDecember
is found from May to October. tiful from December to April. are generally the best months.
Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio e
Named for a Spanish conquistador,

and flanked by the ocean and
forested hills, this beautiful park was
inaugurated in 1972. Although it is the
smallest in Costa Ricas park system,
Signage within covering a land area of 6 sq miles
PN Manuel Antonio (16 sq km), Manuel Antonio National
Park has remarkable biodiversity, with abundant wild-
life and magnificent beaches. Sightings of coatis, sloths,
toucans, and scarlet macaws along the well-maintained
trails are virtually guaranteed. This is one of the most
visited parks in the nation: although there is a limit on
the daily number of visitors, its wildlife is threatened by
overuse, pollution, and unregulated hotel expansion. Visitors queuing at the park entrance
5026&104
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Playa Espadilla Sur

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Punta Catedral
This former island is now
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Playa Manuel Antonio

This scimitar-shaped beach
with soft white sands shelves
into calm jade waters
Coral reefs form a
containing a small coral refuge for crabs, star-
reef. Snorkeling is splendid, fish, shrimp and color-
especially in the dry season. ful fish. Dolphins and
Green and Pacific ridley humpback whales are
turtles sometimes nest here. often seen in this area.
THE MANCHINEEL TREE VISITORS CHECKLIST

Locally called manzanillo, or beach Road Map D4. 100 miles
apple, the manchineel tree is quite (160 km) S of San Jos and 5
common on the beaches, causing miles (8 km) S of Quepos.
problems for unwary visitors seeking Tel 2777-4122. @ from San Jos
its shade. This evergreen species and Quepos. # 8am4pm
(Hippomane manicinella), identified TueSun. Limited to 600 visitors
by its short trunk and bright green ellip- a day. & 8 -
tical leaves, is very toxic. The sap and
bark inflame the skin, while the small
yellow apple-like fruit is poisonous.
Moreover, if its wood is burnt, the
Manchineel trees smoke is an irritant to the lungs.
Sendero Mirador Monkeys

Ascending a hill and dropping past Capuchin monkeys and tiny
2VF
M
" [V
CSBE
Playa Escondido, this muddy, 0.8- squirrel monkeys are easily

2VFCSB EB
B/F
mile (1.3-km) long trail then rises to spotted throughout the park.
HSB
a mirador with great views toward Do not feed them the

VF
Punta Catedral. illegal practice is a threat to
C SB EB
-B$ their health and behavior.
U BSB
B
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Laguna Negras brackish waters

and mangrove swamps are home
-
to the alligator-like caiman.

1MBZB -"(6/"
&TDPOEJEP
/&(3" P Playa Playitas is remote and,
O
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being a nesting site for marine

B
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turtles, is off-limits to visitors.
1MBZB
0$&"/ 1MBZJUBT
0 meters 500
0 yards 500
KEY 1VOUB
4FSSVDIP
Major road *TMB.PHPUF
Park boundary
Rocky Islands
Trail An additional 212 sq miles
Viewpoint Isla Mogote is a (550 sq km) of the park
Visitor information sacred site for the protects 12 islands that host
Quepoa Indians. large colonies of seabirds.
GUANACASTE AND
N O R T H E R N N I C O YA
W
ith its arid plains, men on horseback, rodeos, and
bullfights, the province of Guanacaste is steeped in the
hacienda heritage. The region stretches from the cloud-
tipped volcanoes of the Cordillera de Guanacaste to the marshes of
the Ro Tempisque basin and the magnificent surf-washed beaches
of Northern Nicoya paradise for marine turtles and surfers.
A chain of volcanoes and cloud forests on the upper slopes
mountains runs across of the mountains provide a
this vast region, framing it splendid study in contrasts.
to the east. To the north- The Chorotega culture
west, the rugged Pacific shore, was one of the regions
which is serrated by deep bays, has most developed at the time
many of the nations best beaches. of the Spanish arrival, and
Between mountain and coast lies a was quickly assimilated.
broad trough whose wetlands harbor While no great pre-Columbian archi-
crocodiles and waterfowl. To the tecture has been discovered, a tradi-
southwest, the Nicoya Peninsula tion of superb pottery continues in
enfolds the mangrove-fringed Gulf of the Guaitl area. The predominant
Nicoya. Although the plains can be culture now is that of the sabanero
searingly hot, the mountains offer (cowboy), tracing a lineage back to
cool, beautiful retreats, while refresh- colonial days, when great haciendas
ing breezes caress the beaches. were constructed. Raising or tending
In spring, the sparsely foliated cattle is still the dominant occupation
deciduous forests of the plains here, although many inhabitants
explode in a riot of color while offer- cling to a way of life established in
ing the advantage of relatively easy pre-Columbian times, earning their
wildlife spotting. Thick evergreen livelihood from fishing.
Sabaneros (cowboys) herding cattle at a ranch in Liberia
An espav tree (Anacardium excelsum) entwined by a strangler fig, Parque Nacional Rincn de la Vieja
Exploring Guanacaste and Northern Nicoya

The driest of Costa Ricas regions offers possibilities ranging from
the spectacular cloud forests of Monteverde to the volcano parks of
Rincn de la Vieja, Miravalles, and Guanacaste, and the beach-fringed
Parque Nacional Santa Rosa. Birding is superb at Palo Verde, Lomas
Barbudal, and near Caas. To the north is Liberia, with its colonial
buildings. Laid-back Playas del Coco to the west is a base for scuba
diving, while Playa Flamingo is a sportfishing destination. Far- Peas
Blancas
ther south is the surf center of Tamarindo, and Playa Grande NICA
and Ostional draw marine turtles. Guaitl is famed for its
traditional pottery, while Barra Honda attracts cavers.
BAHA Santa
SALINAS La Cruz Cecilia
Refugio Nacional
de Vida Silvestre
R o
Isla Bolaos
Volcn Orosi
a p oa 4,900 ft
S
Santa Rita
Playa Blanca Cuajiniqul
PA A L Volcn Cacao
RQ UE N ACIO N 5,400 ft
PARQUE
S A N TA R O S A NACIONAL
Islas GUANACASTE
Murcilagos Hacienda
Potrerillos
Playa
Nancite
Caas
Liberias main plaza, flanked by trees Playa Dulces
Naranjo
Curuband
Hacienda
Culebra Colorado
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Daniel Oduber
International Airport
BAHA CULEBRA
LIBERIA
b eria
Towns and Villages Playa Hermosa
Caas 3 PLAYAS DEL COCO Guardia i
Guaitl s Playa Ocotal
R
o L
Islita o Isla
Liberia 7 Catalina
Filadela
Nicoya p
PLAYA FLAMINGO Tempate
Nosara u Playa Conchal G U A N A
Smara i
Ortega
Santa Cruz a aa
s
o C Bernabela
Tamarindo t Playa Grande
R
Parque Nacional TAMARINDO SANTA

Tilarn 2 Marino Las Baulas CRUZ GUAITL

Monteverde and Santa Elena pp1248 1 San Juan
Parque Nacional Barra Honda d Playa Negra
Parque Nacional Guanacaste 9 Florida

NICOYA
Parque Nacional Palo Verde 4
Vista al Mar
Parque Nacional Rincn de la Vieja 8
Parque Nacional Santa Rosa Hojancha
ar a
pp1345 q REFUGIO NACIONAL

Pilas
Blancas
os
Refugio Nacional de Vida DE VIDA SILVESTRE N

OSTIONAL Ro
Silvestre Ostional y
NOSARA
Reserva Biolgica Lomas Barbudal 5 Playa Guiones
Santa
Maria
Zona Protectora Volcn Miravalles 6
ISLITA
SMARA
Areas of Natural Beauty Playa
Carillo Carrillo
Baha Culebra w
Baha Salinas 0
Beaches
A mask at Rancho
Playa Flamingo r Armadillo, Playas
Playas del Coco e del Coco

G U A N A C A S T E A N D N O R T H E R N N I C O YA 123
RAGUA
Brasilia
Volcn Rincn Cattle crossing a stream near Parque Nacional Palo Verde
de la Vieja
5,900 ft KEY
Aguas Claras Pan-American Highway
ZONA PROTECTORA
PARQUE VOLCN MIRAVALLES Major road
NACIONAL Laguna Volcn
RINCN Mogote Miravalles 0 km 10 Secondary road
DE LA VIEJA 6,650 ft
Minor road
0 miles 10
International border
Ro anco
R o
ci
Ten
ob i
Bl
or Provincial border
o r io
Ro C
Pijije Nuevo
Arenal Peak
Bagaces
RESERVA
BIOLGICA TILARN
LOMAS BARBUDAL Laguna SEE ALSO
de Arenal
C A S T E CAAS
R o
Ca
na
PARQUE NACIONAL Where to Eat pp2314

s
San Jos
PALO VERDE Santa
Ro Elena
Quesara MONTEVERDE AND
Te
Puerto to
ar
m
ja
o La s
SANTA ELENA
pi
Humo sq
Lag
R
e
u
R o
PARQUE NACIONAL ez
BARRA HONDA ju
n
a
Ar
San
Buenaventura R o
San Gerardo
Miramar
Limonal
PUN TA R EN AS
Carmona
San Jos
GETTING AROUND
The Pan-American Highway runs the length of the region, connecting
Corazalito with the Nicaraguan border. Dirt roads connect the highway with
Bejuco Zapote Monteverde and other sights. Highway 21 links Liberia to Northern
Nicoya, with feeder roads extending west to the principal beach resorts.
San Francisco An efficient bus service connects towns along the Pan-American
de Coyote
Highway, as well as several beach resorts, with San Jos, but bus travel
between resorts requires time-consuming connections. Cars can be rented
at Liberia and Tamarindo. Liberia has an international airport, while
Tamarindo, Nosara, Tambor, and Smara are served by domestic airports.
Monteverde and Santa Elena 1
Known worldwide for its unique cloud

forest reserve that helped promote
Costa Ricas reputation for ecotourism,
Monteverde boasts a pastoral alpine setting
at an elevation of 4,600 ft (1,400 m), in the
heart of the Cordillera de Tilarn. To the
Monteverde northwest is Santa Elena, which is the
logo main commercial center. Several other
reserves, incorporated within the Zona Protectora
Arenal-Monteverde, are found in the area. Monteverdes
fame has spawned all manner of attractions, including Canopy Tours
a variety of tours that permit visitors a monkeys-eye Four canopy tours permit
view of the forest canopy. However, even in the face visitors to explore the
of these ever-increasing services and attractions, canopy along zipline
Monteverde retains a bucolic charm. or by rappeling.
Las
Juntas
Reserva Bosque
Orqudeas de Sky Walk/
b
Nuboso Santa Elena
Monteverde SkyTrek and Selvatura Park
displays one-third
of Costa Ricas
orchid species
(see p126).
Original
b
Canopy Tour
S A N TA
a
S uci
ELENA
da
a
br
e
Qu
Original Canopy
Ranario de Tour Ofce
b
Monteverde
CERRO
Skywalk/Sky Trek b
PLANO
Reserva Bosque Nuboso Ofce
SAN
Santa Elena JOS
Offering similar wildlife species
to the Monteverde Cloud Forest
Biological Reserve, the Santa Finca Ecolgico
Elena reserve is, however, less da Ma quina
has four trails ebra
crowded (see p128). Qu
through montane
tropical forest.
Serpentario
This boasts close-up
encounters with
snakes that inhabit
the local forests, as Bajo del Tigre Trail
is a self-guided interpretative
well as various other
trail. Three-wattled bellbirds and
amphibians and quetzals are frequently seen.
reptiles (see p126).
Bat Jungle has a bat flyway.
KEY
Major road Monteverde Nature Center
and Butterfly Gardens
Other road
Dozens of butterfly species flit
Trail about inside netted gardens at
Park boundary this educational center, which
has displays spanning the
Visitor information
insect world (see p126).
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road Map C2. 42 miles
(68 km) N of Puntarenas, 22
miles (35 km) uphill from the
Pan-Am Hwy. * 5,000. @ to
Santa Elena and up to Monte-
verde Cloud Forest Biological
Reserve. www.acmcr.org
Original Canopy Tour
Tel 2645-5243. # 7:30am,
10:30am, and 2:30pm daily.
www.canopytour.com
Santa Elena
Located downhill of Monteverde, with the locality known
as Cerro Plano lying in between, this is the areas main
village, with a bank, bus stop, and other services.
La Lechera
Started by immigrant Quakers
from the United States, the
Cheese Factory is the
foundation of the
local economy. It offers
visitors an insiders
view of cheese-making
(see p126).
Pastures
0 meters 500
Monteverdes lush rolling
0 yards 500
hills are fertile pastures for
the cattle that are the source
l
ai
Tr
of the areas famous cheeses.

os
ig
Am
C er r o
Monteverde is
actually the name of
the Quaker
Sarah Dodwell
b
R E SE RVA community of
Watercolor Gallery B IOLGIC A American extract,
B OSQUE whose members live
MONTEVERDE NUB OSO in scattered homes in
La Lechera MONT E VE R DE the forests below the
Monteverde reserve.
R o Guac i m al Reserve Entrance
b
Friend's
Meeting House
SAN
LUIS
The Friends Meeting House is the

venue for meetings of Monteverdes
Quaker community (see p126).
Reserva Biolgica
Bosque Nuboso Monteverde
The world-famous Monteverde Cloud
Forest Biological Reserve is the nations
foremost locale for viewing resplendent
quetzals one among more than 400
species of birds found here (see p127).
Exploring Monteverde and Santa Elena such diminutives as the

liverwort orchid (Platystele
Cool and verdant Monteverde jungermannioides), the
has its fair share of interesting worlds smallest flower.
sights, many of which are spread
out along the winding dirt road O Monteverde Nature Center
that slopes gently upward from & Butterfly Garden
1.2 miles (1.8 km) S of Santa Elena.
Monteverde Reserve Santa Elena to the Monteverde Tel 2645-5512. # 9:30am4pm daily.
sign Cloud Forest Biological Reserve. & 8 = www.monteverde
Other sights are tucked away butterflygarden.com
off side roads, some of which are quite rugged and With educational exhibits as
steep. Walking is a pleasurable option, but the heavily well as butterfly arenas repre-
trafficked roads can be muddy or dusty, depending on senting three distinct habitats,
the weather. It is always a wise idea to take along an this nature center is an ideal
umbrella. Dozens of hotels and restaurants line the locale for learning about the
life cycle of the butterfly.
route. A steeper dirt road leads northeast from Santa The fascinating displays also
Elena to Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve, passing include tarantulas, stick insects,
several key attractions along the route. giant rhinoceros beetles, and
5-in (13-cm) long caterpillars.
O Ranario de Monteverde Educational videos are
330 yd (300 m) SW of Santa Elena. shown, and a video bug
Tel 2645-6320. # 9am8:30pm cam gives visitors a larger-
daily. & 8 7 = than-life real-time view of
www.ranario.com leafcutter ants inside a nest.
The Frog Pond of Monteverde The highlight of the hour-long
displays about 20 species of guided tour is a large netted
frogs and other amphibians, flyway where more than 40
as well as snakes, salaman- species of colorful butterflies
ders, and lizards in large flit about amid dense foliage.
glass cases that attempt to Go midmorning, when the
replicate their natural butterflies become active.
environments. Several of Delicate orchids grown at
Costa Ricas most intriguing Orqudeas de Monteverde O Bat Jungle
ranas and sapos (frogs and 1.75 miles (2.5 km) SE of Santa
toads) can be seen here, O Orqudeas de Monteverde Elena. Tel 2645-6566. # 9:30am
including poison-dart frogs, 0.8 mile (1.3 km) E of Santa Elena. 7pm daily. & 8
the endearing red-eyed tree Tel 2645-5308. # 8am5pm daily. Costa Rica boasts 109 species
frogs, transparent frogs, and &8 of bats (Monteverde alone
huge marine toads. The best A great place to learn about has 65 of them), and you
time to visit the Ranario is orchids (see p183), the Mon- can learn all about these
evening or night, when the teverde Orchid Garden has fascinating creatures at this
frogs are most active and more than 500 local species. exhibit. The highlight is a
visitors can hear their They are arranged in 22 glass-walled flyway that is a
distinctive calls. groups along a winding habitat for eight bat species.
self-guided trail labeled with Documentaries are shown,
O Serpentario educational signs. Visitors are and you can don giant ears
550 yd (500 m) S of Santa Elena. each handed a magnifying to gain a sense of a bats phe-
Tel 2645-6002. # 8am8pm daily. glass to help them appreciate nomenal acoustic abilities.
& 8 7 www.snaketour.com
Among more than 20 species
of snakes shown behind THE QUAKERS
glass in this snake house The original settlers of Monteverde
are the fearsome terciopelo were 44 members of the pacifist
(fer-de-lance, or Bothrops Protestant religious group called
asper) and its nemesis, the Quakers. Hailing from Alabama,
terciopelo-eating musarana USA, where they had been jailed for
(Clelia clelia). Most species refusing to be drafted, they arrived
displayed here can be in Costa Rica in 1951, drawn by the
encountered in local forests. fact that the country had abolished
Also exhibited are turtles, its army following the 1948 Civil
iguanas, basilisk lizards, War. They settled in the Cordillera Painting of a Quaker in
chameleons, and frogs. de Tilarn, raising dairy cattle to traditional attire
Although the educational produce the cheese that is now
labels are only in Spanish, famous throughout the nation. The Quakers have been
English-speaking guides at the forefront of local conservation efforts in Monteverde.
are available.
THE GOLDEN TOAD margays, and ocelots. The

umbrella bird and the endan-
In 1964 scientists discovered a new species of toad (Bufo gered three-wattled bellbird are
periglenes) in the cloud forest above Monteverde. They among the 400 species of birds.
named the brilliant orange creature sapo dorado (golden Quetzals are easily seen, the
toad). In fact, only the male, which best viewing time being the
is 1-in (3-cm) long, is bright AprilMay mating season,
orange; the female is larger when they are especially
and speckled in patches active after dawn. Also
of black, red, and yellow. easily spotted are humming-
Although abundant as recently birds, which gather at
as 1986, sapo dorado has not feeders outside the visitor
been seen since 1988 and is center; the reserve counts
now considered extinct. Golden toads, now extinct more than 30 species. Most
wildlife, however, is elusive
and difficult to detect. The
P La Lechera Reserve, the jewel in the crown reserve is crossed by 75 miles
2 miles (3 km) SE of Santa Elena. of the vast Arenal-Monteverde (120 km) of trails. A self-
Tel 2645-5436. # 7:30am5pm Protection Zone. Owned and guided booklet corresponds
daily (to 12:30pm Sun). & 8 9am operated by the Tropical to educational posts along the
and 2pm. www.monteverde.net Science Center of Costa Rica, most popular trails, which are
Founded by the original the reserve straddles the covered with wooden board-
Quaker settlers of Monteverde Continental Divide and com- walks and are linked together
in 1953, the Cheese Factory prises six distinct ecological to form what is colloquially
today produces 14 types of zones extending down the called the triangle. Sendero
pasteurized cheese, including Pacific and Caribbean slopes. Chomogo is a steep trail lead-
parmesan, Gouda, and the The upper elevation forests ing to a mirador (viewpoint)
best-selling Monte Rico. of the reserve are smothered atop the Continental Divide.
Guided tours show visitors by near-constant mists From here, on rare days when
the manufacturing process, fed by sodden trade winds the mists clear, visitors can see
resulting in the production of sweeping in off the both the Pacific and the Carib-
more than 2,200 lb (1,000 kg) Atlantic. On the bean. More challenging
of cheese daily. Visitors can more exposed trails extend down
buy cajeta, a butterscotch ridges, trees the Caribbean
spread, and cheeses on-site. are reduced slopes to the
to stunted lowlands; these
O Reserva Biolgica Bosque dwarfs by the Iguana at Reserva Biolgica involve a full
Nuboso Monteverde battering of Bosque Nuboso Monteverde days hike, with
4 miles (6 km) SE of Santa Elena. the wind. mud oozing
Tel 2645-5122. # 7am4pm daily. Wildlife abounds here. There underfoot. Rubber boots can
& 8 by reservation. - = are more than 150 species of be rented, along with binocu-
www.cct.or.cr amphibians and reptiles, and lars. The driest months are
The dirt road that winds uphill over 500 species of butterflies. between December and April.
from Santa Elena ends at the More than 100 species of Hotels organize transport, and
40-sq-mile (105-sq-km) Monte- mammals include five wild cats both taxis and buses operate
verde Cloud Forest Biological jaguars, jaguarundis, pumas, from Santa Elena.
A hike through Reserva Biolgica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde

O Reserva Bosque Nuboso that meander through the

Santa Elena cloud forest canopy. Visitors
4 miles (6 km) NE of Santa Elena. can also take part in a 14-
Tel 2645-5390. # 7am4pm daily. platform zipline canopy
& 8 7:30am, 11:30am, and tour, one of the longest in
7pm, by appointment. - = the whole of Costa Rica,
www.reservasantaelena.org for a monkeys-eye view
Funded and run by the of the upper elevation forest.
community of Santa Elena, A highlight of Selvatura
the 2-sq-mile (5-sq-km) Park is the Jewels of the
Santa Elena Cloud Forest Rainforest Bio-Art Exhibition,
Reserve is dedicated to which features a superb
conservation and education. display of the worlds largest
The students of the local private insect collection,
high school play a vital role put together by entomologist
in its development. Dr. Richard Whitten. Beauti-
Set at a higher elevation fully laid out in a riot of
than the more famous and colors, thousands of stick
crowded Reserva Biolgica insects, butterflies, spiders,
Bosque Nuboso Monteverde A visitor trying the Sky Walk along wasps, beetles, moths, and
(see p127), this magical green the cloud forest canopy other insects are exhibited
world is cloudier and wetter. in educational panels
Spider and howler monkeys offers a variety of ways in arranged according to geo-
are easily seen, as are which to explore the cloud graphic regions and themes.
resplendent quetzals, orange- forest canopy. Thrill-seekers Other exhibits in the Jewels
bellied trogons, squirrels, can try the 2-hour SkyTrek. collection include giant
and agoutis. More elusive are Securely harnessed, visitors crustaceans and skulls of
the tapirs, jaguars, ocelots, slide between treetop plat- prehistoric creatures, such
pumas, and tayras, which forms along ziplines that as the saber-toothed tiger.
belong to the same family total a mile (1.6 km) in There are also human skulls,
as otters and weasels. On length. Two observatory ranging from Australopithecus
clear days, there are fabulous towers offer panoramic to Homo sapiens. Fascinating
views toward Volcn Arenal views of the Guanacaste and videos about insect life are
in the northeast. A self-guided Puntarenas lowlands. The shown in an auditorium.
booklet is available for the more sedate Sky Walk is just Visitors can also watch
7 miles (11 km) of hiking trails. as good for wildlife viewing, Dr. Whitten at work in his
with 3,300 ft (1,000 m) of Selvatura laboratory via
O Sky Walk/SkyTrek aerial pathways, including a real-time video link.
3 miles (5 km) NE of Santa Elena. five suspension bridges hung Selvatura Parks other
Tel 2645-5238. # 7am4pm between treetop platforms. attractions include a hum-
daily. & 8 8am, 10am, and mingbird garden with more
1pm (Sky Walk); 7:30am, 9:30am, O Selvatura Park than 14 species of humming-
11:30am, 1:30pm, and 2pm (SkyTrek). 4 miles (6 km) NE of Santa Elena. birds, a climbing wall,
7 - = www.skywalk.co.cr; Tel 2645-5929. # 7am5pm guided nature walks, and a
www.skytrek.com daily. & 8 7 0 = domed, climate-controlled
With high walkways, ziplines, www.selvatura.com butterfly garden with over
and suspension bridges, this Selvatura Park boasts 2 miles 20 species of butterflies,
project on the edge of Reserva (3 km) of treetop walkways including the shimmering
Bosque Nuboso Santa Elena with eight suspension bridges blue morphos.
The entrance to Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Elena
Cloud Forests of Costa Rica

Named for the ephemeral primeval quality. More pro-
mists that always envelop tected areas have taller vege-
them, Costa Ricas cloud forests tation typical of rainforests, with
are typically found at elevations several levels (see pp223).
above 3,500 ft (1,050 m). More Clear-wing
butterfly
However, the lush canopies
properly called montane tropical rarely reach 100 ft (30 m),
rainforests, they show extreme local although massive trees occasionally
variations in flora. On wind-swept, break through. Epiphytic plants such
exposed ridges, trees and shrubs grow as orchids and bromeliads cling to
close to the ground as a form of branches, which also drip with lichen,
protection, forming elfin forest with a fungi, mosses, and liverworts.
Pipers, found in Swirling mistsare Mosses breathe

moist areas, can created by humid and draw water
have large leaves Caribbean trade directly from the
up to 20 winds that air through roots
condense as they
inches (50 cm) sweep up to the
that hang from
in size. Costa Rica Continental Divide. branches like an
has 94 species of pipers. old mans beard.
FLORA AND FAUNA Trees include guarumo, wild

The constant interplay of sunshine, clouds, and rainfall fig, and the huge zapote, with
in cloud forests produces flora of astounding diversity. branches often weighed down
Fauna is correspondingly abundant, although the mists by epiphytic plants.
and thick foliage hamper sightings.
Collared peccaries forage in Prong-billed barbets have a Howler monkeys are

large groups and are highly telltale yodel but are reclusive arboreal leaf- and fruit-eaters.
social. They use their long and rarely seen. At night they Males are known for their
canines to defend themselves. sleep huddled together. intimidating, booming roars.
Tilarn 2
E of Caas. * 7,700. @ _ Feria
del Da Cvica (AprJun).
This neat little town, at an

elevation of 1,800 ft (550 m)
on the Continental Divide,
has crisp air and a pretty
plaza shaded by pines and
cypress trees. It makes a
delightful stop en
route to and from Bird-watching from canopied boats at Parque Nacional Palo Verde
Lake Arenal, although
the only sight of note and oncillas are quite tame, white-tailed deer, peccaries
is the 1960s modern- having been raised by the (wild hogs), pumas, and other
looking, arch-roofed late founder, Lilly Bodmer de mammals. In the wet season,
cathedral, decorated Hagnauer. No guard rails pre- much of the area floods and
with marquetry. An vent visitors from going up to draws flocks of waterfowl to
agricultural town sur- the cages caution is needed. join herons, jabiru storks, ibis,
rounded by undulat- Nearby, Ro Corobic is popu- roseate spoonbills and other
ing fields, Tilarn lar for rafting trips offered by stilt-legged waders. Palo Verde
Tower, is known for its Safaris Corobic; small rapids has more than 300 species of
Tilarn annual livestock add touches of excitement. birds, including a large popu-
cathedral show and rodeo. lation of scarlet macaws and
O Centro de Rescate curassows. Isla de Pjaros, in
Environs Las Pumas the middle of Ro Tempisque,
Pan-Am Hwy, 3 miles (5 km) N of
Orchid lovers should visit Caas. Tel 2669-6044. # 8am
is a major nesting site.
Vivero Popor, where tropical 5pm daily. & http://laspumas.org Wildlife viewing is best in
orchids are raised and more the dry season when the
} Safaris Corobic
than 20 species of butterflies deciduous trees lose their
Pan-Am Hwy, 3 miles (5 km) N of
flutter inside a netted garden. Caas. Tel 2669-6091.
leaves and animals collect
near waterholes. Lookout
Y Vivero Popor points can be accessed by
2 miles (3 km) E of Tilarn.
well-maintained trails.
Tel 2695-5047. # 7:30am6pm Parque Nacional
daily. & 8 =
Palo Verde 4 Reserva Biolgica
Road Map B2. 26 miles (42 km) W of Lomas Barbudal 5
Caas 3 Caas. Tel 2200-0125. @ to Puerto
Humo, then boat to trailhead leading Road Map A2. 4 miles (6 km) SW of
Road Map B2. 48 miles (77 km) N of to park HQ; to Bagaces (14 miles/22 km Pan-Am Hwy, 12 miles (19 km) NW of
Puntarenas. * 19,000. @ _ Feria N of Caas), then by jeep-taxi. # 8am Bagaces. Tel 2695-5908. @ to Bagaces,
Domingo de Resurreccin (Mar/Apr). 4pm daily. & 8 0 = then by jeep-taxi. # 8am4pm daily
(subject to change). & by donation.
This dusty cowboy town set One of the countrys most
dramatically in the lee of the diverse national parks, Palo Famous for its plentiful insect
Cordillera de Guanacaste is Verde was inaugurated in population, not least the 250
also known as Ciudad de la 1980. Spread over 50 sq miles species of bees, the seldom-
Amistad (City of Friendship). (130 sq km), it protects a visited Reserva Biolgica
Surrounded by cattle haciendas mosaic of habitats including
in the searingly hot Tempisque mangrove swamps, marshes,
basin, Caas is most appealing savanna, and tropical dry
for its sabaneros (cowboys). forest at the mouth of Ro
It sits astride the Pan-Am Tempisque. Much of the
Highway, and serves as the vegetation consists of such
gateway to Parque Nacional drought-tolerant species as
Palo Verde and Lake Arenal. ironwood and sandbox, as
well as evergreen paloverde
Environs (green stick) trees, which
To the north, the Centro de give the park its name.
Rescate Las Pumas (Puma Fauna is diverse and abun-
Rescue Shelter) is a private dant. During the dry season
facility for rescued wild cats. from December to April, the
Some of the cats which trees burst into vibrant bloom.
include jaguars, pumas, The ripening fruits draw Rare dry forests of Reserva
ocelots, margays, jaguarundis, monkeys, raccoon-like coatis, Biolgica Lomas Barbudal
Lomas Barbudal (Bearded at Proyecto Geotrmico

Hills Biological Reserve) Miravalles. The fumaroles and
protects rare tropical dry mud pools are best viewed at
forest. Established in 1986, the Las Hornillas Volcanic Activity
hilly, densely forested terrain Center, where a short trail
hosts a similar array of wild- leads into an active crater. You
life to Parque Nacional Palo can even wallow in warm,
Verde. The reserve also has therapeutic mud before diving
plant species not usually into a swimming pool. There
found in dry forests its are also horseback rides and a
waterways are lined with thrilling thermal waterslide that
evergreens such as guapinol plunges you into a pool with
and fruit-bearing nspero. magnificent volcano views.
Trails span the 9-sq-mile
(23-sq-km) reserve from the Proyecto Geotrmico
Casa de Patrimonio visitor Miravalles
center on the banks of Ro 17 miles (27 km) NE of Bagaces. Tel Interior of a colonial-era house on
2673-1111, ext 232. # by appt. &
Cabuyo, which has pools Calle Real, Liberia
that are good for swimming. Las Hornillas Volcanic
The best time to visit is Activity Center La Chcara, a ranch that hosts
during February and March, 1 mile (1.6 km) SE of Proyecto various horse-related activities.
because this is when the Geotrmico Miravalles. Tel 8839- The main plaza has the modern
9769. # 9am5pm daily. & 8
parks trees bloom in Iglesia Imaculada Concepcin
0 www.hornillas.com
spectacular profusion. de Mara. Next door, the
ayuntamiento (town hall) flies
Guanacastes flag, the only
Liberia 7 provincial flag in the country.
Each July, locals celebrate
Road Map A2. 16 miles (26 km) Guanacastes separation from
N of Bagaces. * 39,000. k @ Nicaragua in 1824. The Iglesia
n 2665-0135. _ Da de la Anexin de la Ermita de la Resureccin,
de Guanacaste (Jul 25). familiarly known as Iglesia de
la Agona, is an engaging
Guanacastes charming, 1825 adobe colonial
historic capital, founded church, which features
in 1769, is known as a small museum of
the White City for its religious art. Liberia
whitewashed adobe is the main gateway
houses with terra-cotta to Parque Nacional
tile roofs. The Rincn de la Vieja
Fumaroles near Las Hornillas, loveliest houses are Liberias (see p132) and
Zona Protectora Volcn Miravalles on Calle Real (Calle Monumento the beaches of
Central). The city is Sabanero Northern Nicoya.
Zona Protectora also known for its puertas del
O Hacienda La Chcara
sol double doors, one on
Volcn Miravalles 6 each side of a corner, to catch 1.5 miles (2.5 km) W of Liberia.
Tel 8350-1527.
both morning and afternoon www.haciendalachacara.com
sun. Liberias cowboy tradition
N of Bagaces. @ from Bagaces.
is celebrated at the Monumento R Iglesia de la Agona
Calle 9 and Ave Central. Tel 2666-
Sabanero, on the main
0107. # 2:303:30pm daily.
This active volcano rises boulevard, and at Hacienda
6,650 ft (2,030 m) above
the Guanacaste plains. Few
visitors hike the trails that lace COWBOY CULTURE
the 42-sq-mile (109-sq-km) A majority of Guanacastecos
Miravalles Forest Reserve make their living as sabaneros
on the upper slopes. Tapirs (cowboys), also called
are drawn to lakes near the bramaderos after the hardy
summit, and there are several Brahma cattle. Proud, folkloric
other species of fauna. figures, the sabaneros ride
The main draw is Las straight-backed in their
Hornillas (Little Ovens), an elaborately decorated saddles,
area of steam vents and mud leading their horses in a high- Sabanero on a working ranch
pools bubbling and hissing stepping gait. The most impor-
on the western slopes. The tant days of the year in Guanacasteco culture revolve
Institute of Electricity (ICE) around topes (horse shows) and recorridos de toros
produces power from the (bullfights). Bulls are ridden and baited, but never killed.
super-heated water vapor
Mountain Resort Thermae &

Spa nearby has bubbling mud
pools and spa treatments.
Hotel Borinquen Mountain
Resort Thermae & Spa
19 miles (30 km) NE of Liberia via
Caas Dulces. Tel 2690-1900. &
0 www.borinquenresort.com
Parque Nacional
Guanacaste 9
Road Map A1. 22 miles (35 km)
The impressive Volcn Rincn de la Vieja N of Liberia. Tel 2666-5051.
@ to Liberia, then by jeep-taxi.
ranger stations can be reached # 8am5pm daily with advance
Parque Nacional from Liberia by jeep-taxis, and notice. & by reservation.
Rincn de la Vieja 8 they are linked by a trail. The www.acguanacaste.ac.cr
dry season from December to
Road Map B1. 19 miles (30 km) April is the best time to visit. This remote national park
NE of Liberia. Tel 2200-0296. @ to encompasses more than 325 sq
Liberia, then by jeep-taxi. # 7am Environs miles (840 sq km) of reforested
5pm daily; last admission: 3pm. & Several nature lodges on the woodland and pasture
www.acguanacaste.ac.cr western slopes of the volcano extending to the top of Volcn
also operate as activity centers. Cacao (5,400 ft/1,650 m) and
The dramatically beautiful On its southwestern flanks, Volcn Orosi (4,900 ft/1,500 m).
Rincn de la Vieja volcano Hacienda Lodge Guachipeln Facilities are few, but the
is studded with nine craters, (see p211), accessed from rewards are immense. The
of which only Rincn de la Liberia via Curuband, is a park, an extension of Parque
Vieja crater (5,900 ft/1,800 m) working cattle ranch, special- Nacional Santa Rosa, has
is active. The highest is Santa izing in horseback rides. a variety of habitats, and
Mara (6,250 ft/1,900 m), while Nearby, Rincn de la Vieja wildlife viewing is stupen-
Von Seebach crater is filled Lodge (see p211) has a 900- dous. Biological stations
with an acidic turquoise lake. acre (364-ha) private forest Cacao, Pitilla, and Maritza
The park protects an area of reserve. Both lodges offer have spartan accommodations;
55 sq miles (140 sq km). The canopy tours. From Liberia, a Cacao and Maritza can be
eastern slopes of the volcano road leads via Caas Dulces to accessed only on foot or
are rain-soaked all year round; Buena Vista Mountain Lodge horseback.
the western side has a distinct & Adventure Center (see Pre-Columbian petroglyphs
dry season, and ranges from p211) on the northwestern can be seen at Llano de los
deciduous forest at lower ele- slopes. It offers horseback Indios, on the lower western
vations to cloud forest below rides, a canopy tour, and a flanks of Volcn Orosi.
the stark moonscape summit. 1,300-ft (400-m) long water
Visitors can spot capuchin, slide. Hotel Borinquen
howler, and spider monkeys, Baha Salinas 0
anteaters, sloths, kinkajous,
and more than 300 species Road Map A1. 38 miles (62 km)
of birds, including quetzals NW of Liberia. @ to La Cruz, then
and three-wattled bellbirds. by jeep-taxi.
Pea-green Lago Los Jilgueros
is visited by tapirs. Framed by cliffs to the north,
The park offers superb salt pans to the east, and
hiking. Trails start at the park mangrove-fringed beaches to
headquarters, the 19th-century the south, this flask-shaped
Hacienda Santa Mara, and at bay is swept by breezes from
Las Pailas ranger station. They December to April. Fishing
lead past mud pools, hot sulfur hamlets line its shores. Hotels
springs, waterfalls, and fuma- at La Coyotera and Playa
roles. The challenging 11-mile Copal serve as surfing centers.
(18-km) summit trail requires Frigate birds use the drafts
a pre-dawn departure. The around Refugio Nacional de
summit offers fabulous views Vida Silvestre Isla Bolaos to
as far as Lake Nicaragua. take off. A protected nesting
Hikers must report to the site for pelicans and American
ranger stations when setting Careta la Cangreja waterfall in the oystercatchers, this island is
out and returning. Both Parque Rincon de la Vieja off-limits to visitors.
Costa Ricas Dry Forests

Dry deciduous forests once original cover remains, notably in
swathed the lowlands of the the Tempisque basin, and Santa
Pacific littoral from Mexico to Rosa, Rincn de la Vieja, and
Panama, covering most of Guanacaste National Parks. Recent
todays Guanacaste and Nicoya. conservation efforts, spearheaded
After the arrival of Columbus, by the US biologist Dr. Daniel
the Spanish cleared vast areas The orange bloom Janzen, are returning large
of these forests to raise cattle, of the por areas of savanna and ranchland
which still dominate the to their original state. The intent
economy of the Pacific northwest. is to link the existing patchwork and
Today, only about 2 percent of the regenerate dry forest ecosystems.
The understory consists of Grass and thorn Treestypically grow no The forest is relatively
short trees; above are stout- scrub dominate at higher than 40 ft (12 m) sparsely vegetated, with
trunked, flat-crowned trees. ground level. and are widely spaced. fewer species of flora.
The dry season sees the forest exploding in an outburst of color. Pink pou blooms first, followed
by bright orange por, rose-colored Tabebuia rosea, vermilion malinche, and purple jacaranda.
Guanacaste trees
spread their wide-
reaching branches
close to the ground,
providing precious
shade in the searing
midday heat. Such
dry forest species have
evolved to withstand
the long seasonal
Parque Nacional Santa Rosa (see pp1323) drought by shedding
protects the most important remnant of dry their leaves.
tropical forest in all Central America.
Indio desnudo,
or naked Indian,
is named for its
distinct copper-
red bark, which
readily peels to White-tailed deer blend in
reveal an olive- well with the dun-colored Thorny scrub, such as
colored trunk. grasses and dry forest. The acacia, have long spikes
Naked Indian is best times to see them are to prevent birds and
also called the dawn and dusk, when they animals from eating
gumbo-limbo. emerge to search for food. their leaves and seeds.
Parque Nacional Santa Rosa q
The countrys first national park, inaugurated in 1971,

Santa Rosa National Park covers 190 sq miles (492 sq km)
of the Santa Elena Peninsula and adjoining land. It is
divided into two sectors. To the north is the little-visited
Murcilago Sector, with hidden beaches notably Playa
Blanca accessed along a rugged dirt track. To the
south, the much larger Santa Rosa Sector was the site of
battles in 1856 and 1955, and boasts most of the sights
of interest. The park protects the nations largest stretch
of tropical dry forest, as well as nine other distinct Islas Murcilagos
habitats. With 115 mammal species, including 20 types The waters around these
of bats, and 250 species of birds, the park is a superb islands offer splendid scuba
wildlife-viewing area, especially in the dry season, diving (see p252). Manta
when the deciduous trees shed their leaves. rays, grouper, and other
large species are common.
Playa Nancite
This is one of three sites in Costa
Rica where olive ridley turtles
nest en masse in synchronized
arribadas (see p141), especially
in SeptemberOctober. Protected
as a research site, it
is off-limits to
visitors except

SB
BMF
by permit.
$
4 " / 5"
3P
B
/JTQFS
- 3 P
1MBZB
5VMF &TUBDJPO
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/BODJUF
1MBZB
/BODJUF
Crocodiles &TUFSP
The mangroves at the northern 3FBM
3
and southern ends of Playa #BIB P 1 P [ B
Naranjo harbor crocodiles. /BSBOKP

1FB
#SVKB 1MBZB
Witchs Rock, off Playa Naranjo, is renowned /BSBOKP
among surfers for the powerful, tubular waves
that rise here and pump ashore. 1"$*'*$0$&"/
Playa Naranjo
A gorgeous white-sand
surfing beach, Playa
Naranjo has campsites
with basic facilities. It is
reached by an arduous
dirt road that often gets
washed out in wet season
check with rangers before
setting out for the beach.
$VBKJOJRVM
b
VISITORS CHECKLIST
1"326&
Road Map A1. 22 miles (35
/"$*0/"-4"/5"304" km) N of Liberia. Tel 2666-5051.
*TMBT @ Santa Rosa Sector: from
.VSDJMBHPT Liberia; Murcilago Sector: from
Tanquetas (armored
Santa Rosa park entrance, via
vehicles) lie half-buried
Cuajiniqul. g tours to Playa
in the undergrowth as
Naranjo from Playa Tamarindo
rusting relics of an ill-
KEY and Playas del Coco. # 8am
fated attack launched
4pm daily for vehicles; 24 hrs for
Murcilago Sector by Nicaraguan dictator
hikers. & 0 by reservation.
Anastasio Somoza
Santa Rosa Sector by reservation.
against Costa Rica
.VSDJMBHP www.acguanacaste.ac.cr
4FDUPS *TMBT in 1955.
.VSDJMBHPT
Sendero Indio
Desnudo
Named for indio
desnudo (naked
Indian) or
gumbo-limbo
5BORVFUBT b trees, this short
trail features a
-
monument to the
Costa Ricans who
fought in the
battles of 1856
and 1955.
304"4&$503
$FOUSPEF
*OWFTUJHBDJPOFT b
b
-B$BTPOB
-
Centro de Investigaciones
is the main center for
tropical dry forest research
in Costa Rica. La Casona
EB Also called Hacienda Santa Rosa, this important
BMB
4 monument is a replica built in 2001 after the
Sendero Los Patos leads to waterholes,
which provide excellent opportunities 1663 original was destroyed by arsonists. The
for viewing peccaries and other battle of 1856 against William Walker (see p45)
mammals in the dry season. was fought outside the hacienda, which now
functions as a historical museum.
0 km 2
0 miles 2 THE CONTRA CONNECTION

During the 1980s, the remote Murcilago
KEY Sector was utilized as a secret training
Pan-Am Highway
ground for the CIA-backed Nicaraguan
Contras in their battle to topple the San-
Other road dinista government (see p46). An airstrip
was illegally established here under the
Trail
orders of Colonel Oliver North, a key
Park boundary player in the Iran-Contra scandal that
shook the US in 19838. The road to the
Visitor information
park entrance runs alongside the airstrip,
Camping which occupies land confiscated from
Col. Oliver North Nicaraguan strongman Anastasio Somoza.
Viewpoint
Visitors soaking up the sun on the wide gray-sand beaches of Tamarindo
Baha Culebra w also a premier sportfishing Tamarindo t

destination. Playas Hermosa
Road Map A2. 12 miles (19 km) and Panam, north of Coco, Road Map A2. 11 miles (18 km)
W of Liberia. have exquisite settings, with S of Flamingo. * 3,800. ~ @
Isla Catalina silhouetted _ International Festival of Music
Ringed by dramatic cliffs and dramatically at sunset. (JulAug).
fringed by beaches of varying
hues, Baha Culebra (Snake Formerly a sleepy fishing
Bay) is the setting for Proyecto Playa Flamingo r village, Tamarindo has
Papagayo, a controversial tour- rapidly developed into the
ism project that has restricted Road Map A2. 38 miles (62 km) SW regions premier resort. This
access to the bays sparkling of Liberia. * 2,000. @ hip surfers haven is also a
waters. Spilling down the cliffs center for sportfishing, diving,
are big hotels, including the With gently curving white and snorkeling. Tamarindo is
Four Seasons Resort at Papa- sands cusped by rugged popular with backpackers,
gayo Peninsula (see p208). headlands, the gorgeous Playa but also boasts a cosmopolitan
Pre-Columbian settlements Flamingo justifies its official selection of restaurants and
on the bay await excavation. yet less common name, Playa boutique hotels.
Witchs Rock Canopy Tour Blanca (White Beach). The The area lies within Parque
has ziplines and a walkway large marina is a sportfishing Nacional Marino Las Baulas
through the dry forest canopy. base, but it is tem- (Leatherback Turtle
porarily closed. Marine National Park),
O Witchs Rock Canopy Tour Deluxe villas inaugurated in 1990. It
23 miles (37 km) W of Liberia. Tel
dot the rocky protects 85 sq miles
2666-7101. # 8am5pm daily. &
http://witchsrockcanopytour.com
headlands. Most (220 sq km) of
of the hotels are ocean and 1,100
upscale timeshare acres (445 ha)
resorts and, despite its of beach Playa
Playas del Coco e fine beach, Flamingo Surfers heading Grande a prime
is shunned by the off- for nesting site of leather-
Road Map A2. 22 miles (35 km) beat and party crowd. the water back turtles. Between
SW of Liberia. * 2,000. @ October and April, as
_ Fiesta Cvica (Jan); Festival de la Environs many as 100 leatherbacks can
Virgen del Mar (mid-Jul). North of Playa Flamingo, the be seen on the beach. Pacific
estuary of Ro Salinas opens ridley, green, and hawksbill
This wide beach combines out at modestly appealing turtles occasionally nest
the allure of a traditional Playa Penca, where roseate here. During the nesting
fishing community with a spoonbills, egrets, and a rich season, nobody is permitted
no-frills resort. Although the variety of other birdlife can on the beach after sundown,
pelican-patrolled beach is be spotted in the mangroves. except guided groups
not particularly attractive, it Southwest of Flamingo is by reservation.
is a favorite with Costa Rican Playa Conchal (Shell Beach), The park also incorporates
families, and has a lively with its shining sands; the dia- Playa Langosta, south of
nightlife. Local outfitters offer mond-like sparkle of the sands Tamarindo, and 990 acres
sportfishing and scuba trips to is caused by crushed seashells. (400 ha) of mangroves, which
Islas Murcilagos (see p134) The beach slopes gently into can be explored on boats.
and Isla Catalina, where turquoise waters, which are
schools of rays can be seen. ideal for snorkeling and other O Parque Nacional Marino
water sports. For a fee, visitors Las Baulas
Environs can access Paradisus Playa Tel 2686-4967. # OctFeb:
24 hrs; MarSep: 6am6pm daily.
Secluded Playa Ocotal, west Conchal Beach & Golf Resort
& 8 compulsory on the beach;
of Playas del Coco, has the (see p210), which boasts a OctFeb: 6pm6am daily.
regions best dive site. It is championship golf course.
Surfing Beaches of Northern Nicoya

Acclaimed as the Hawaii of will find a fairly challenging ride on
Latin America, Costa Rica offers any day, while extremely varied
world-class surfing and warm tidal conditions provide breaks
waters year-round. The greatest for every level of experience. Be
concentration of surfing beaches warned, however: riptides are
is in Northern Nicoya, where common and many surfers lose
Pacific breakers pump ashore their lives every year; few beaches
all year. Conditions are ideal have lifeguards. Numerous villages
between December and March, and resorts have become surfers
when the Papagayo winds kick havens and are heavily reliant on
up high waves. Dozens of Surfing the waveboard trade, with scores
beaches guarantee that surfers board of surf camps and surf shops.
Playa Naranjo 1
This remote beach in the
Golfo de Papagayo boasts
a superb beach break,
called Witchs Rock.
Naranjo is accessed by
4WD or by boat from the
resorts of Northern Nicoya.
1 Playa Grande 2
Consistently high waves pump ashore
onto this long, easily accessible beach.
It is protected as part of a prime
nesting site of the leatherback turtle.
Playa Nosara 4
A relatively new
discovery among
surfers, Nosara
2 has a fine beach
Tamarindo 3 3 break and a
The surf capital of Northern dramatic setting.
Nicoya, Tamarindo offers a It is backed by
rivermouth break, rocky point mangroves and
break, and beach breaks. It is has warm, rocky
also the gateway to nearby tidepools.
isolated surfing beaches such
as Playas Langosta, Avellanas,
and Negra.
4
0 km 10
0 miles 10
Playas Bongo, Aro, and Manzanillo 6

All three are as off-the-beaten-track as
Playas Bejuco and San Miguel 5 possible in Costa Rica. Just getting there
Long slivers of silvery sand are washed is half the fun. Cracking waves, combined
by good surf. These remote beaches with the solitude, guarantee surfer bliss.
are oriented to budget travelers. Facilities are virtually nonexistent.
Refugio Nacional
de Vida Silvestre
Ostional y
Road Map A3. 34 miles (55 km)
S of Tamarindo. Tel 2682-0470.
@ from Santa Cruz and Nicoya
via Nosara. # 24 hrs daily. &
8 compulsory for the beach.
The setting for one of the

most remarkable occurrences
in nature, Ostional National
Wildlife Refuge protects 4 sq
miles (10 sq km) of land and
sea around Playa Ostional. A participant in a surfing competition at Playa Guiones, Nosara
The beach is one of only
a dozen worldwide where tidepools in which monkeys the north, the Flying Crocodile
Pacific ridley turtles nest in can sometimes be seen Lodge and Flying Center offers
synchronized arribadas. The enjoying a good soak. Strong flights by ultralight plane.
best time to view them is tides rule out swimming, but
during August and September. the breakers are perfect for Flying Crocodile Lodge and
Green and leatherback turtles surfing. To the north, small Flying Center
Esterones, 3 miles (5 km) N of
also nest here in smaller Playa Pelada is encircled by
Smara. Tel 2656-8048.
numbers. Ostional is the only steep cliffs. Nearby, Reserva Bi- # 7am3pm daily. 8 0 =
place in Costa Rica olgica Nosara protects www.flying-crocodile.com
where residents are 125 acres (50 ha)
legally allowed, under of tropical forest
strict guidelines, to along the Ro Nosara
harvest eggs during estuary. Over 250 Islita o
the first 36 hours bird species nest
of an arribada. here, including wood Road Map B3. 9 miles (14 km)
Ostional is accessed storks, white-fronted S of Smara. * 1,000. ~
by dirt roads that Vultures, parrots, and frigate @ to Smara, then by jeep-taxi.
require 4WD during the Nosara birds. Crocodiles can
wet season. The remote be seen in the estuary. Set in the lee of the soaring
setting and the surrounding Punta Islita, this charming
forests have shielded the area O Reserva Biolgica Nosara village is known for the Hotel
from development, though Bocas de Nosara. Tel 2682-0035. Hacienda Punta Islita (see
now there are a few hotels. & 8 by appointment. 0 - = p209), a hilltop resort that
Personal contact with turtles www.lagarta.com houses the Galera de Arte
is forbidden, as are flashlights Contemporneo Mary Anne
and flash photography. Zrcher. Artworks in varied
Smara i media by established and
local artists are available here.
Nosara u Road Map A3. 16 miles (26 km) S of The hotel also fosters the
Nosara. * 2,700. ~ at Carrillo. @ Museo de Arte Contempor-
Road Map A3. 3 miles (5 km) S of neo al Aire Libre (Open Air
Ostional. * 2,800. ~ @ Popular with backpackers, Museum of Contemporary Art),
surfers, and middle-class spread around the village
This isolated community on Costa Ricans, Smara is the houses, individual trees, and
the Nicoya coast comprises most southerly of the even the soccer field
twin villages. Bocas de beach resorts devel- have been decorated
Nosara, 3 miles (5 km) inland, oped for tourism. by residents and
on the banks of Ro Nosara, At the southern end hotel staff with murals
is a peasant hamlet where of Playa Smara, at and other spontane-
ox-carts still creak along dusty Matapalo, villagers ous aesthetic expres-
lanes. Beaches of Nosara, to eke out a living from sions. Several rivers
the south, is a predominantly the sea. There are have to be forded
foreign settlement, with few other sights of along the rough dirt
contemporary homes amid interest, and life road linking Islita
forests near the shore. The revolves around Beach sign, to Smara. During
maze of roads comprising lazing on the gray sands, Smara the wet season, long
Beaches of Nosara backs onto or going surfing and detours via San Pedro to
the stunning Playa Guiones, riding. Playa Carrillo, 2 miles the east are often necessary,
a long, calm stretch of white (3 km) south of Smara, is a which is why many people
sand and sun-warmed sportfishing center, while to choose to fly here.
A farmhouse and ranch in the Cordillera de Guanacaste
Arribadas of Olive Ridley Turtles

The synchronized mass nestings called intervals, usually during the last quarter
arribadas (arrivals), which are of the moons cycle. On any one
unique to the ridley turtle, are night, as many as 20,000 turtles
known to occur regularly at congregate just beyond the
only a dozen or so beaches breakers. Then, wave after
worldwide. Of these, three wave of turtles storm ashore,
are in Costa Rica Playa Nancite, even climbing over one another
Playa Ostional, and Playa Camar- in a single-minded effort to find
onal. Arribadas take place Mosaic a nesting spot on the crowded
between April and December, turtle sands. Millions of eggs are laid
peaking in August and September. during each arribada, believed to
Lasting between three and eight days, be an evolutionary adaptation to ensure
they happen at two- to four-week survival in the face of heavy predation.
Ridley turtles
come ashore
in groups num-
bering up to
100,000 turtles
during a single
arribada. Ridleys
nest every year,
sometimes as Hatchlings emerge together
often as three at night for the dangerous run
times a season. to the sea and the safety it
offers. Only about 1 percent
Flippersscatter survive to adulthood.
sand on the nest
to disguise it. Females lay an
average of 100
eggs each during
an arribada.
THE NESTING PROCESS

Turtles seek sandy sites above the high-water mark
Nests are scooped
in which to nest. Incubation typically takes around out to a depth of
50 days. The temperature of the nest affects the about 3 ft (1 m)
gender of the hatchling cooler nests produce using rear flippers.
males, while warmer ones produce females.
Scientists tag ridley turtles Coatis, as well as raccoons and Commercial harvesting
during an arribada at Santa vultures, dig up turtle nests to of eggs is legally
Rosas Playa Nancite in an feast on the eggs; less than done only by villagers
effort to track and study them. 10 percent of turtle eggs hatch. of Ostional.
Nicoya p Environs
Nature lovers can head about
Road Map A3. 44 miles (71 km) SW 17 miles (27 km) northeast to
of Liberia. * 21,000. @ _ Fiesta Puerto Humo, a riverside port
de la Yegita (Dec 12). town from where boats depart
for Parque Nacional Palo Verde
Emanating sleepy colonial (see p130). Buses operate from
charm, Nicoya dates back to Nicoya. Nearby, Tempisque
the mid-1600s, and is named Safari Ecological Adventure is
after the Chorotega cacique a rescue and breeding center
(chief) who greeted the for animals such as tapirs,
Spanish conquistador Gil crocodiles, and wild cats.
Gonzlez Davila in 1523. An
advanced Chorotega settlement O Tempisque Safari
existed here in pre-Columbian Ecological Adventure
times. Today, the town serves 4 miles (6 km) NW of Puerto Humo.
as the administrative center Tel 2698-1069. # 10am5pm
for the Nicoya Peninsula and daily. & 8 0
bustles with the comings www.tempisquesafaricr.com
and goings of campesinos Ruined bell tower, Plaza Bernabela
(peasants) and cowboys. Ramos, Santa Cruz
Nicoya is also the gateway Santa Cruz a
for Smara and the Pacific was founded in 1760. Many of
beaches of the south-central Road Map A2. 14 miles (22 km) N the wooden colonial edifices
Nicoya Peninsula. of Nicoya. * 17,500. @ _ Fiesta that once graced its historic
Life centers around the old Patronal de Santo Cristo (mid-Jan); core were destroyed in a fire,
plaza, Parque Central. Built Fiesta de Santiago (Jul 25). but the overall ambience is
in 1644, the intimate, wood- still charming. Plaza de los
beamed Iglesia Parroquia Steeped in local tradition, Mangos serves as a focal
San Blas, located in the Santa Cruz is Costa Ricas point for the citys festivals,
northeast corner of the plaza, official La Ciudad Folklrica which draw visitors from
has a simple faade inset (National Folkloric City). miles around to enjoy tradi-
with bells. Inside, a small Connected by Highway 160 tional marimba music and
museum has a display of to Tamarindo and the beaches dance. Topes (horse shows)
historical artifacts and of the north-central Nicoya and recorridos de toros (bull-
religious memorabilia. Peninsula, this center fights) also take place here.
The architectural highlight of
Santa Cruz is the landscaped
Plaza Bernabela Ramos. On its
east side is a modern church
with fine stained-glass win-
dows. Next to it is the ruined
bell tower of a Colonial-style
church, which was destroyed
by an earthquake in 1950.
The plaza is a pleasant spot
to relax and admire the
statues, including that of
Chorotega cacique Dira in
The simple exterior of the Iglesia Parroquia San Blas in Nicoya the southwest corner, and
a montador (bull-rider) on a
bucking bull in the northeast.
FIESTA DE LA YEGITA
Also known as the Festival of the
Virgin of Guadalupe, this fiesta
blends Chorotega and Catholic
traditions. According to legend,
twin brothers were battling to
death for the love of an Indian
princess when a yegita (little
mare) intervened to stop the fight.
The festival takes place every
December and features traditional
Costa Rican food, bullfights,
rodeos, street processions,
The Virgin of Guadalupe fireworks, music and dance,
by Miguel Cabrera and ancient Indian rituals. Statue of a bull-rider, Plaza
Bernabela Ramos, Santa Cruz
Guaitl s CHOROTEGA POTTERY

Road Map A2. 7 miles (11 km) E of Guaitl artisans use the same simple tools as their ancestors
Santa Cruz. * 1,500. @ did to craft pottery in the age-old manner, perpetuating their
native traditions. The decorative bowls, pots, and
This small village offers the clay figures are polished with zukias (ancient
most authentic display of grinding stones), and blessed by shamans,
traditional culture (see pp323) after which totemic animal motifs in black,
in Costa Rica, with virtually red, and white are painted on ocher back-
the entire community grounds. The quintessential Guaitl piece is
deriving its income by making a three-legged vase in the form of a cow.
ceramics in pre-Columbian Although most pieces are traditional, some
style. Guaitl sits on the cusp Clay figure
artisans work in a creative synthesis that blurs
between cultures even the from Guaitl the line between the old and the new.
contemporary pieces draw
inspiration from traditional
Chorotega designs. up by powerful tectonic forces.
Headed by the matriarch of Cerro Barra Honda is riddled
the family, most households with limestone caverns formed
have a traditional wood-fired, by the action of water over
dome-shaped horno (oven) for millions of years. Of the 40
firing pots and other ceramic caves discovered so far, 20
objects. Visitors are welcome have been explored. Santa
in the yards to watch artisans Ana, the largest cave, soars
work the red clay dug from to a height of 790 ft (240 m).
nearby riverbanks. The dusty Inside Cueva Terciopelo, a
lanes are lined with thatched dripstone formation called El
stores and open-air shacks rgano (The Organ) produces
where the pottery is displayed. musical tones when struck.
A regeneration of Chorotega La Pozo Hediondo (Stinking
culture is now spilling over into Well) is named for the drop-
the nearby villages as well. In pings of the bats roosting
San Vicente, the tiny Ecomuseo here. Some caves have blind
de la Cermica Chorotega salamanders and blind fish, Puente de Amistad con Taiwan
offers a historical and cultural and most boast dramatic across Ro Tempisque on Hwy 18
profile on the ceramic tradition. stalactites and stalagmites.
Indigenous artifacts have guides can be hired. Hikers
E Ecomuseo de la Cermica been found in some caves. must report to the ranger
Chorotega Cave descents into Cueva station. A 4WD is needed
1 mile (1.6 km) E of Guaitl. Tel Tercipelo are permitted; a to reach the park entrance.
2681-1563. # 8am4pm MonFri. licensed guide is compulsory. Jeep-taxis run from Nicoya.
& www.ecomuseosanvicente.org Guides are also compulsory
for the Las Cascadas trail, Environs
which leads to waterfalls. The Puente de Amistad
Parque Nacional Spelunkers enter Tercipelo con Taiwan (Friendship with
via a 100-ft (30-m) ladder. Taiwan Bridge) is a dramatic
Barra Honda d Access to the other caves suspension bridge over Ro
requires prior permission. Tempisque. It links Nicoya
Road Map B3. 11 miles (18 km) E of
Spelunking equipment and to the Pan-Am Highway.
Nicoya. Tel 2659-1551. @ Nicoya
Santa Ana village (0.5 mile/1 km from
park entrance), then by jeep-taxi. #
8am4pm daily; last admission: noon;
caving: 7:30am1pm daily (DecApr:
to 2pm). & 8 0
One of the best spots for

caving, this national park
was established in 1974, and
spreads over 9 sq miles (23 sq
km). A tropical dry forest area,
Barra Honda was used for
raising cattle, but is now in the
process of being reforested.
The park has excellent
hiking. Trails lead to lookout
points atop Cerro Barra Honda
(1450 ft/442 m), a massif lifted A spelunker at Cueva Terciopelo, Parque Nacional Barra Honda
THE NORTHERN ZONE
T
he northern provinces are Costa Ricas flatlands a gentle
landscape quilted in pastures, fruit plantations, and humid
rainforest. This wide-open canvas is framed by a dramatic
escarpment of mountains. The extreme north of this perennially wet
region is a world of seasonally flooded lagoons and migratory water-
fowl, while the mountains in the south are cloaked in dense forests,
which are protected in a series of national parks and wildlife reserves.
The rolling llanuras neighbors. During the colonial era,
(plains) form a trian- settlements were restricted to the
gle, narrow to the west main river courses, and were
and broadening eastward, subject to constant plunder-
which extends north from ing by pirates.
the base of the cordilleras (moun- The region remained aloof
tain ranges) to Ro San Juan, on the from the rest of the country
Nicaraguan border. The scenery is until the early 19th century,
nowhere more splendid than around when a trade route was laid
Lake Arenal, located on a depression linking highland towns to a wharfside
between the Guanacaste and Tilarn settlement todays Puerto Viejo
Mountains. Volcn Arenal looms which gave access to the Caribbean.
ethereally over the waters. Its near- Founded around that time, Ciudad
constant eruptions and other local Quesada grew to become the regions
attractions have given a boost to the administrative center. The settlement
nearby town of La Fortuna, now a campaign initiated in the 1950s led to
base for various adventure activities. the decimation of huge tracts of
At the time of the Spanish arrival, forest to make room for cattle farms
the Corobic peoples occupied the as well as banana and citrus planta-
lower flanks of the mountains and tions. More settlements have since
were at war with their Nicaraguan sprung up throughout the region.
Cloud-wreathed Volcn Arenal, the countrys most active volcano
Crossing one of the Arenal Hanging Bridges

Exploring the Northern Zone

The main gateway to the northern lowlands is Ciudad
Quesada, a dairy town on the mountain flanks that
fringe the regions southern border. La Fortuna, to the
west, is a center for outdoor activities, from caving to
horseback riding. The regions major attraction is Volcn
Arenal, great for hiking and for soaking in the thermal
waters of Tabacn. Nearby Lake Arenal offers fine fishing
and world-class windsurfing. To the east of Ciudad Quesada
are several private reserves one of which includes the
Rainforest Aerial Tram. Boats depart the nondescript town
of Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu for nature cruises along Ro Stone figurine, Centro
Sarapiqu. Cao Negro Wildlife Refuge, in the far north, Neotrpico SarapiquS
is a superb birding and angling destination.
NICARAGUA
La Cruz
Los Chiles
Brasilia
REFUGIO NACIONAL
San Jos
DE VIDA SILVESTRE
R
CAO NEGRO
o
Pi Upala
zole Cao Negro
Lago Cao
Negro
Ro
Negro
Ro
Aguas Claras
PARQUE NACIONAL
Fro
VOLCN TENORIO
Bijagua
San Rafael
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE Caas Ro
Fro A L A
Orqudea
Towns and Cities
Lago de CAVERNAS
Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) 0 Coter TABACN
DE VENADO HOT SPRINGS
La Fortuna 1
Nuevo Arenal ARENAL RESORT
Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu w AND SPA
HANGING
BRIDGES LA
National Parks and Reserves LAGUNA FORTUNA
Parque Nacional Volcn Arenal 3 DE ARENAL
Parque Nacional Volcn Tenorio 9
PARQUE NACIONAL Volcn Arenal
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre VOLCN ARENAL 5,400 ft
Cao Negro 8 0 km 10 ARENAL
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre RAINFOREST
RESERVE AND
Corredor Fronterizo r 0 miles 10 AERIAL TRAM
Areas of Natural Beauty

Arenal Hanging Bridges 5
Arenal Rainforest Reserve
and Aerial Tram 6
Cavernas de Venado 7
La Selva Biological Station t
Laguna de Arenal pp15052 4
Rainforest Aerial Tram i
Rara Avis u
Sarapiqu Heliconia Island y
Selva Verde e
Tabacn Hot Springs
Resort and Spa 2
Indigenous Site
Centro Neotrpico SarapiquS q A cowboy at Selva Verde

T H E N O R T H E R N Z O N E 147
Volcn Arenal shrouded in mist
SEE ALSO
Where to Eat pp2345

REFUGIO NACIONAL
DE VIDA SILVESTRE
l CORREDOR FRONTERIZO
Ro P ocoso
The hot springs at Tabacn, near

Concho
Volcn Arenal
ito
Boca San
ern
Carlos R o S
a n Ju an
Inf
Laguna
Ro
Coopevega Canacas
Trinidad
Ro Sa n
J U E L A C a rlo s
ra piq u
Boca Tapada
San Marcos Las Medias

Ro Sa
Pangola
Buenos Aires
ro
To
H E R E D I A
Ro
PUERTO VIEJO
SELVA DE SARAPIQU
Pital VERDE
La Virgen SARAPIQU
de Sarapiqu HELICONIA ISLAND
LA SELVA
BIOLOGICAL
STATION
CENTRO Las
CIUDAD NEOTRPICO Horquetas
rinto
QUESADA SARAPIQUS
(SAN CARLOS) RARA AVIS
Ro Co
Gupiles
Alajuela RAINFOREST
AERIAL TRAM
KEY
Major road
GETTING AROUND
The towns of Upala and Los Chiles are access points for the
Secondary road Cao Negro Wildlife Refuge, which is reached by rough roads.
Minor road Sansa and Nature Air offer flights to La Fortuna, which is linked
by tourist buses with San Jos and key resorts beyond the
Track region. Organized tours can be booked through tour operators
International border and hotels. However, the best way of getting around is to rent
a car. A 4WD is essential to reach Cao Negro and other sights
Provincial border away from the main roads. Many roads are prone to landslides,
Peak especially along the north shore of Lake Arenal and those that
link La Fortuna and Upala.
La Fortuna 1 Tabacn Hot

Road Map C2. 81 miles (131 km)
Springs Resort
NW of San Jos. * 9,750. @ and Spa 2
Volcn Arenal towers over Road Map C2. 8 miles (13 km)
this agricultural community W of La Fortuna. Tel 2519-1999.
and tourist hub, officially @ from La Fortuna and Nuevo Arenal.
known as La Fortuna de San # 10am10pm daily. & 7 0 =
Carlos. Situated on a gentle www.tabacon.com
slope, the picturesque town
is laid out on a grid around Steaming-hot waters pour out
a broad, landscaped plaza, from the base of Volcn Arenal
which has a sculpture of an and cascade through this lush,
erupting volcano. A modern landscaped balneario (bathing
church stands on the plaza, resort). Ro Tabacn feeds a
its tall bell tower contrasting One of the many buses that run series of therapeutic mineral
with Arenal behind. from La Fortuna to various sights pools with temperatures that
Arenal Bungee range from 27 to 39C (80
offers various 320-acre (130-ha) private forest 102F). Spa treatments are
options for reserve at the base of soaring available. The main pool
adrenalin-charged mountains. The reserve, which has a swim-up bar, and
plunges from also welcomes day visitors, there is a splendid restaurant
a metal tower. offers horseback rides into the with views (see p235). La
There are numer- forest and has hiking trails too. Fuentes Termales, an affiliated
ous restaurants and . balneario nearby, can be
hotels that cater to } Arenal Bungee accessed from Tabacn
the tourists who La Fortuna. Tel 2479-7440. Lodge via zipline.
# 9:30am8:30pm daily. &
Horseback come here in Tabacns is in the path of
www.arenalbungee.com
riding in La search of adven- the main lava flow and, along
Fortuna ture. Several O Ecocentro Danaus Butterfly with Pueblo Nuevo, it was
agencies offer Farm and Tropical Garden decimated in 1968 when
horseback rides, caving, 2 miles (3 km) E of La Fortuna. Arenal erupted. Nonetheless,
Tel 2479-7019. # 8am4pm daily.
fishing, biking, and rafting. A the resort is usually crowded
& 8 www.ecocentrodanaus.com
popular horseback trip is to on weekends and throughout
Monteverde (see pp1248), but O Arenal Mundo Aventura the high season.
the ride is very demanding 1 mile (1.6 km) S of La Fortuna.
on the horses, so ensure you Environs
& 8 - www.arenalmundo
choose a well-kept animal. aventura.com
Opened in 2009, Arenal
Waterfall Gardens offers
Environs } Catarata La Fortuna landscaped thermal pools
3 miles (5 km) SW of La Fortuna.
The Ecocentro Danaus Butterfly and cascades, plus a wild
Farm and Tropical Garden
&-
cat rescue center.
provides an educational intro-
duction to the local fauna. It Baldi Termae Spa O Arenal Waterfall Gardens
has a netted butterfly garden, a 3 miles (5 km) W of La Fortuna. 6 miles (10 km) W of La Fortuna.
Tel 2479-9651. # 10am10pm Tel 2401-3313. # 8ammidnight
snake zoo, a frog garden, and
daily. & 7 0 - www.arenal. daily. & 0 www.thesprings
a small lagoon stocked with net/baldi-hot-springs.htm costarica.com
waterfowl and caimans. Arenal
Mundo Aventura is a 2-sq-mile
(5-sq-km) wildlife refuge and
ecotour center with trails,
rappeling, and canopy tours.
Nearby, a steep, muddy trail
leads to the base of Catarata
La Fortuna, a refreshingly cool,
ribbon-like 210-ft (70-m) high
waterfall. Swimming in the
pools at its base is unsafe after
heavy rains. Instead, visitors
can soak in thermal waters at
Baldi Termae Spa, which has
landscaped outdoor pools and
a swim-up bar and restaurant.
Southeast of La Fortuna on
Highway 142, Hotel Bosques
de Chachagua (see p212) is a
working cattle ranch with a The landscaped pools of the balneario at Tabacn
14 bridges suspended over

ravines. The relatively easy,
2-mile (3-km) trail clings to
the mountainside and offers
close-up views of every level
of the moist tropical forest,
from ground to canopy.
Guided walks include dawn
birding and a night tour.
Arenal Rainforest
Reserve and Aerial
Tram 6
Road Map C2. El Castillo, 14 miles
(22 km) W of La Fortuna. Tel 2479-
9944. # 7:30am5pm daily. @ to
A panoramic view of Volcn Arenal and the San Carlos Plains La Fortuna, then by jeep-taxi. &
8 7:30am and 3:30pm. 7 0 =
no entry zones. The volcano www.arenalreserve.com
Parque Nacional has already claimed several
Volcn Arenal 3 lives. The ranger station at Aerial trams (telefricos) whisk
the park entrance sells maps visitors up the northern slopes
Road Map C2. 11 miles (18 km) and has restrooms. Tour of the Cordillera de Tilarn at
W of La Fortuna. Tel 2461-8499. companies and hotels in La this private facility on the
@ to La Fortuna, then by jeep-taxi. Fortuna offer guided tours. southern shore of Lake
# 8am4pm daily; last entrance: The park also includes the Arenal. The open-air carriages
3pm. & dormant 3,800-ft (1,150-m) climb steeply through rainforest
high Volcn Chato to the east. to a lookout point at 4,250 ft
Encircling the countrys most Arenal Observatory Lodge (1,300 m) from where visitors
active volcano, Arenal Volcano (see p213), midway up the can enjoy fabulous views of
National Park spreads over western flank of Chato, has the lake and the volcano. From
45 sq miles (120 sq km). Rising stunning views of Arenal and the mirador, 2 miles (3 km)
from the San Carlos Lake Arenal. A of ziplines connect treetop
Plains, the majestic museum provides canopies and offer exhilarating
Arenal is one of an understanding rides across broad ravines.
Costa Ricas most of vulcanicity, and
rewarding sights. the restaurant offers Environs
Pre-Columbian Sign at Arenal grandstand views The Jardn de Mariposas/
tribes considered it Observatory Lodge when Arenal erupts. Castillo de Insectos has a
the sacred Home of Trails from the small, fascinating display of
the Fire God. Arenal ceased observatory lead through insects, scorpions, and snakes,
activity between the 13th and thick forests to Chatos as well as a butterfly garden
16th centuries, and stayed summit, where a jade-colored and a medicinal herb garden.
inactive until July 29, 1968, lake shimmers in the crater.
when an earthquake re-awak- Canoes can be hired here. O Jardn de Mariposas/
ened it. The perfectly conical Castillo de Insectos
El Castillo, 14 miles (22 km)
5,400-ft (1,650-m) high volcano W of La Fortuna. Tel 2479-1149.
now smolders incessantly and Laguna de Arenal 4 # 8am5pm daily. &
minor eruptions occur almost www.butterflyconservancy.org
daily. At night it can look like See pp15051.
a firecracker as it spews out
red-hot lava, which pours
down its northwestern flank. Arenal Hanging
Witnessing an eruption is a Bridges 5
matter of luck, as clouds often
conceal the upper reaches; Road Map C2. 12 miles (19 km)
the dry season is the best for W of La Fortuna. Tel 2290-0469.
viewing. Ask to be woken if @ to La Fortuna, then by jeep-taxi.
there is a nocturnal eruption. # 8am4:30pm daily. & 8 7
Trails cross a moonscape of - www.hangingbridges.com
smoking lava scree on Arenals
lower western slopes. Hikers A self-guided trail meanders
should note that access to through 620 pristine acres
some areas is restricted, and (250 ha) of primary forest and Open-air telefricos at the Arenal
should observe the posted is punctuated by a series of Rainforest Reserve & Aerial Tram
Laguna de Arenal 4
Ringed by hills, with Volcn Arenal

standing tall to the east, Lake Arenal
has a breathtaking setting at an eleva-
tion of 1,800 ft (540 m). The 48-sq-mile
Butterfly at (124-sq-km) lake fills a tectonic depres-
Laguna de Arenal
sion forming a gap between Tilarn
and the Cordillera de Guanacaste, and was created in
1973 when the Instituto Costarricense de Electricidad Lucky Bug Gallery
(ICE) dammed the eastern end of the valley. The sole This small shop attached to
town is Nuevo Arenal, on the lakes north side. The Restaurante Willys Caballo
easternmost shores are forest-clad, while huge swathes Negro (see p235) sells an
of verdant pasture lie to the south and west. The lake is eclectic range of quality
swept by near-constant winds, providing windsurfers artwork and crafts.
with world-class conditions. Archeologists have iden-
tified pre-Columbian settlements beneath the waters.
o Lago
R
Ag
u ac de Coter SAN
ate
RAFAEL
Lucky Bug
R o Gallery b
R P ie
oS dr Guadalajara
b
abal a
o
R o
Do
b sB
Nuevo oc
as
Arenal
Tilawa Viento
Surf Center
b LA
Lago de Coter GU
The small lake features NA
an activity center offering b
Tronadora
b
kayaking, swimming, and Tejona

birding (see p152).
b
Quebrada
Azul
Hotel Tilawa
Silencio
has a brewpub CAAS
b
with lake views.

b
Tilarn
Wind turbines line ridges of

the Continental Divide on the Tilawa Viento
exposed western side of the Surf Center (see
lake, supplying electricity to p152)
the national grid (see p152).
0 km 3
0 miles 3
KEY
Major road
Other road
Parque Nacional Volcn Arenal

boundary
The magnificent setting of Laguna de Arenal
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road Map B2.
11 miles (18 km) from La
Fortuna along Hwy 142.
@ from La Fortuna.
Hotel Tilawa Tel 2695-5050.
www.hotel-tilawa.com
Arenal Hanging Bridges

A series of suspension bridges are part of a 2-mile (3-km)
self-guided interpretive trail through rainforest. The trail
offers superb views of Volcn Arenal 5
Presa Sangregado, the 288-ft

Arenal Rainforest
(88-m) long, 184-ft (56-m)
high earthen dam that
Reserve and Aerial
created the lake, generates Tram
a large portion of the The Arenal Rain-
nations hydroelectric power. forest Reserves sky
tram consists of
open-air carriages,
which ascend forest-
covered mountain
slopes. Fabulous
views of the lake
and volcano can
be seen 6
b
Unin VENADO Arenal
Hanging
Bridges
b
Mata de Caa
b
Presa
Sangregado
D b
E LA FORTUNA
ARE N
AL Volcn
Arenal
Ro
Ch
Arenal
uito iq
Rainforest
b
Reserve
El b
b
Castillo
Rancho
Margot
El Castillo
This community is a start-
ing point for horseback
rides to Monteverde via
Rancho Margot is a self- the Cordillera Tilarn.
sufficient organic farm that Other attractions include
also has a wildlife breeding Jardn de Mariposas,
center and trails into a rain-
which has a small muse-
forest reserve. Also on offer
are kayaking and more um displaying insects and
extreme activities (see p152). reptiles, and a butterfly
garden (see p149).
Exploring Laguna de Arenal

Lake Arenal is encircled to the west and north by
the winding Route 142, which links Tilarn with La
Fortuna. East of Nuevo Arenal, the road deteriorates
and is frequently blocked by landslides. A dirt road
along the southeastern shore is impassable from the
west at all times. The hotels and restaurants lining the
northern shore make a pleasant break from driving. The
greatest attractions of the area are the picture-postcard
vistas, which can be best appreciated from Arenals
southwest shore. The lake is also a favored spot for
sportfishing, windsurfing, and other water sports. Tilawa Viento Surf Center on
Lake Arenal
Nuevo Arenal wildlife rescue, rehabilitation, g Rain Goddess

24 miles (39 km) W of La Fortuna. and breeding center. Many Tel 2231-4299.
* 2,200. sporting enthusiasts come www.bluwing.com
Replacing the old village, here for activities such as Well stocked with guapote
which was flooded in 1973 kayaking, horseback riding, (rainbow bass) and other
by the formation of the lake, waterfall rappeling, and light-tackle game fish,
this orderly town is a service hiking in Rancho Margots Lake Arenal is considered a
center for the lake region. It 375-acre (152-ha) forest premier angling spot. Local
has the only fuel station in reserve. Meals are served hotels and tour operators
the area, as well as several in a colonial farmstead. offer fishing trips, as does the
good restaurants. A dirt road, Rain Goddess. A 65-ft (20-m)
leading north through the Tilawa Viento Surf Center cruise vessel with deluxe
Ro Quequer Valley, links 11 miles (18 km) SW of Nuevo accommodations in wood-
Nuevo Arenal with San Arenal. Tel 22695-5050. paneled cabins, it features
Rafael on Highway 4. http://windsurfcostarica.com multiday fishing packages.
Swept by steady, strong
northeasterly winds between } Lago de Coter
November and March, Lake 4 miles (6 km) NW of Nuevo Arenal.
Arenal is rated as one of the North of Lake Arenal, Lago
finest windsurfing sites in de Coter occupies a basin
the world. The Tilawa Viento in the Fila Vieja Dormida
Surf Center, located on the Mountains. The Lake Coter
lakes western shore, caters Eco-Lodge (see p213) is a
to all levels of windsurfers. center for activities such as
In addition to hiring out canoeing, kayaking, horse-
sailboards, it offers multiday back riding, and mountain
packages and beginners biking. It also offers appeal-
and advanced lessons. ing accommodations. More
The Tico Windsurf Center than 350 species of birds
(tel 2692-2002; www.ticowind. have been recorded in the
com), 9 miles (15 km) south- surrounding forests. A
west of Nuevo Arenal, offers 3-sq-mile (9-sq-km) forest
a similar range of services reserve nearby offers guided
between the months of hiking and birding tours, as
A view of Lake Arenal November and April. well as a zipline canopy tour.
O Rancho Margot
2 miles (3 km) W of El Castillo.
WIND TURBINES
Tel 2479-7259. @ to La Fortuna, Rising over emerald pastures
then by jeep-taxi. # 8am5pm on the western shores of
daily. & & 0 Lake Arenal, two parallel
www.ranchomargot.org ridge crests are dotted with
The dirt road along the south- over 100 wind turbines, each
eastern shore of Lake Arenal 120-ft (35-m) high. Situated
leads past Parque Nacional near the village of Tejona,
Volcn Arenal to Rancho which has some of the Electricity-generating wind
Margot, a self-sustainable farm highest average wind speeds turbines on Lake Arenals shores
and activity center beside the in the world, this wind farm
Ro Cao Negro. Educational is the largest in Central America, with a projected annual
tours of the eco-oriented farm production of up to 70 MW. Electricity is sold to the state-
give fascinating insights, and owned ICE (Instituto Costarricense de Electricidad).
visitors can also enjoy the
Volcanoes in Costa Rica

Located in one of the worlds move apart, with magma burst-
most volcanic zones, Costa Rica ing through cracks in the plate.
has seven active volcanoes, and Lying between 100 and 150
at least 60 that are either miles (160240 km) inland of the
dormant or extinct. Volcanoes subduction zone of the Cocos
are created by plate tectonics and the Caribbean plates, Costa
that is, the movement of the Ricas volcanoes are concen-
Poor mans
interlocking plates making up umbrella, found trated in the northwestern and
the earths crust that ride on the on volcanic soil central regions. Most are steep-
magma (molten rock) in the sided cones formed by silica-
mantle. Most volcanoes occur at the rich magma, and are highly explosive,
boundaries where plates meet or with Arenal being the most active.
THE FORMATION OF COSTA Dormant volcanoes can have vents

Cocos
RICAS VOLCANOES plate
blocked by plugs of hardened lava.
Costa Ricas landmass sits on the
Caribbean plate, beneath which
the east-moving Cocos plate
is being forced to form
a subduction zone.
The intense pres-
sure melts the
rocks this viscous
magma wells up to
create volcanoes.
The subduction zone is the

region where a plate starts Lithosphere
The Caribbean plate is the is the top-
sinking below another.
thicker continental plate. most part of
The magma
chamber feeds the mantle.
the volcano.
Volcanic eruptions can be

viewed at Arenal, which erupts
every few hours during its active
phases, oozing hot lava down its
slopes. Lava blasted laterally
from volcanoes appears as nues
ardentes (glowing clouds)
superheated avalanches of
gas, ash, and rock that move
downhill at astonishing speeds.
Calderas are formed when the

craters of volcanoes collapse,
Smoke and ash are often Bubbling mud pools and creating huge circular depres-
steadily emitted by active vol- fumaroles (vents of steam), sions. This caldera on 8,850-ft
canoes such as Volcn Arenal formed from rainwater (2,700-m) high Volcn Pos
(see p149). Smoking cinder superheated from below, are is a mile (1.6 km) wide, still
blocks can sometimes be seen features of volcanoes such emits smoke, and contains a
rolling down the slopes. as Miravalles (see p131). mineral lake (see p90).
and fishing licenses. Boats

can be rented in nearby Los
Chiles, and agencies in San
Jos offer tours, especially
during the fishing season
(JulMar). Much of the area
floods in the wet season,
and access along the dirt
roads can be a challenge.
Parque Nacional
Volcn Tenorio 9
E of Bijagua. Tel 2200-0135.
@ from Upala, then by jeep-taxi.
The wetlands of Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Cao Negro # 8am4pm daily. & 8
Cavernas de Refugio Nacional Several nature lodges offer

easy access to this 71-sq-mile
Venado 7 de Vida Silvestre (184-sq-km) park. Trails lead
Road Map C2. 1 mile (1.6 km) W
Cao Negro 8 through montane rainforest
to thermal springs and the
of Venado, 24 miles (39 km) NW of Road Map C1. 65 miles (105 km) Pozo Azul, a teal-blue pool
La Fortuna. Tel 2478-9081. @ from NW of La Fortuna. Tel 2471-1309. at the base of the volcano.
Ciudad Quesada. # 7am4pm daily. @ from Upala. g from Los Chiles. Local guides lead hikes in
& 8 8am and 1pm. - # 8am4pm daily. & search of tapirs and other
wildlife, but the summit trail
Bioluminescent fungi help light One of Costa Ricas main is closed to all but scientists.
the way for visitors scrambling wetland conservation areas,
through the underground Cao Negro Wildlife Refuge
passageways of these lime- protects over 38 sq miles Ciudad Quesada
stone caverns. Ten chambers, (98 sq km) of marshlands, (San Carlos) 0
extending almost 2 miles lagoons, and yolillo
(3 km), have been explored. palm forest. Most visi- Road Map C2. 59 miles (95 km)
Exquisite stalagmites, tors come to fish for NW of San Jos. * 36,350. @ n
stalactites, and snook and tarpon, which Catuzon, S of the plaza, 2461-1112.
other subterranean thrive in Ro Fro and ( Sat. _ Feria del Ganado (Apr).
formations fill the other watercourses that
labyrinthine and narrow feed Lago Cao Negro, An important market center
chambers, many of a 3-sq-mile (9-sq-km) serving the local dairy and
which contain marine Neotropic seasonal lake. Rare cattle industries, Ciudad
fossils. Cascada de cormorant ancient garfish also Quesada is set amid pastures
La Muerte is an under- inhabit the tannin- atop the mountain scarp of
ground waterfall that gushes stained waters. The short dry the Cordillera de Tilarn, at an
during the wet season from season (DecApr) is best for elevation of 2,130 ft (650 m).
May to November and after viewing crocodiles, caimans, The town, known locally
heavy rain. Bats flit about, and the large mammals that
blind fish swim in the under- gather near permanent bodies
ground streams, and small of water. Monkeys and tapirs
transparent frogs hop around are numerous, while jaguars
in the ooze. and other cats are more elu-
Guides lead 2-hour long sive. Lucky visitors may also
explorations. Wilbert Solis, who see large flocks of migratory
owns the land on which the birds and waterfowl, includ-
caves are located, supplies ing jabiru storks, Nicaraguan
safety helmets, flashlights, grackles, roseate spoonbills,
and rubber boots. Come pre- and the largest colony of
pared to get covered in mud, neotropic cormorants in
and bring a change of clothes. Costa Rica.
Agencies in La Fortuna Cao Negro village, on the
offer tours. Venado is also west bank of Lago Cao
accessible by a dirt road that Negro, is the only community
begins at Toad Hall (see p234), within the reserve. The park
on the north shore of Lake headquarters are located
Arenal. The village offers here, as are several lodges Mineral spring pools at Termales del
basic accommodation. that arrange guided tours Bosque, Ciudad Quesada
as San Carlos, is the adminis-

trative center for the region,
and is famous for its annual
cattle fair and tope (horse
show). The town plaza
and numerous talabarteras
(saddle-makers workshops)
justify a visit here.
Environs
Highway 140 slopes east,
passing Termales del Bosque,
where visitors can soak in
thermal mineral springs and Parque Arquealgica Alma Alta at the Centro Neotrpico SarapiquS
have mud baths. Hiking trails
lace botanical gardens, and state-of-the-art Museo de investigation and has a
horseback rides and a zipline Cultura Indgena is dedicated library on tropical ecology.
canopy tour are also on offer. to Costa Ricas living indige- Hacienda Pozo Azul is a
Nearby, La Marina Zoolgica nous communities and the working cattle ranch that
is a private, non-profit zoo preservation of their artifacts. offers whitewater rafting
that takes in orphaned and Its impressive exhibits trips and canopy tours.
rescued animals. Its numerous include a large collection Accommodation is available
inhabitants include jaguars, of masks, bark cloth paint- at Magsasay Lodge, adjoining
agoutis, monkeys, peccaries, ings, and other decorative, Parque Nacional Braulio
and snakes, as well as domestic, and ritual objects, Carrillo (see p91). The
macaws, toucans, and many including shamanic healing nearby Snake Garden allows
other bird species. Tapirs are sticks. An air-conditioned visitors to get nose-to-nose
bred for release into the wild. theater shows a 15-minute with 70 snake species.
documentary.
Termales del Bosque The Parque Arquealgica O Tirimbina Rainforest
4 miles (6 km) E of Ciudad Alma Alta, set in an s.Reserve
Quesada. Tel 2460-4740. orange orchard, is centered Tel 2761-1579.
# 7am10pm daily. & 7 0 - around four indigenous # 7am5pm daily. & 8
www.termalesdelbosque.com tombs, dating from the www.tirimbina.org
O La Marina Zoolgica 15th century, and a represen- O Hacienda Pozo
6 miles (10 km) E of Ciudad tation of a pre-Columbian Azul
Quesada. Tel 2474-2202. village. Indian guides offer La Virgen de Sarapiqu.
# 8am4pm daily. & = tours of Chesters Field Tel 2761-1360.
Botanical Gardens. Named for # 9am6:30pm daily.
the naturalist Chester 80-=
www.haciendapozoazul.com
Czepulos (191692), the
gardens have about 500 native O Snake Garden
species of plants renowned La Virgen de Sarapiqu.
since pre-Columbian times Tel 2761-1059.
for their medicinal use. The # 9am5pm daily.
& 7 = $ snakegarden@
center also has a quality
costarricense.co.cr
restaurant, hotel, library, and
conference center.
Shaman healing table and stones, Environs

Museo de Cultura Indgena The center adjoins the Tirim-
bina Rainforest Reserve, which
protects 750 acres(300 ha)
Centro Neotrpico of mid-elevation premontane
SarapiquS q forest. It can be reached
from Centro Neotrpico
Road Map D2. La Virgen de SarapiquS by a 855-ft (260-m)
Sarapiqu, 29 miles (47 km) N of long suspension bridge
Alajuela. Tel 2761-1004. @ San across Ro Sarapiqu. A 325-ft
JosPuerto Viejo de Sarapiqu. (100-m) canopy walkway
# 7am8pm daily. & 8 7 0 features among Tirimbinas
www.sarapiquis.org 5 miles (8 km) of trails.
Guided tours include a
This broad-ranging ecological special World of Bats night
center on the banks of Ro walk. The reserves Education
Sarapiqu offers an enriching Center, which is on Tirimbina
insight into indigenous Island in the middle of the Horseback riding at Hacienda Pozo
cultures (see pp323). The river, is used for scientific Azul, a working ranch
Puerto Viejo de Refugio Nacional

Sarapiqu w de Vida Silvestre
Corredor
N of San Jos. * 16,300. @ g Fronterizo r
Positioned at the base of the Road Map C1. Baha Salinas to Punta
Cordillera Central, on the Castillo. Tel 2471-2191 (Los Chiles).
banks of Ro Sarapiqu, Puerto $ refugio.fronterizo@sinac.go.cr
Viejo has functioned as an
important river port since Intended as a biological
colonial days. Before the open- corridor, the 230-sq-mile
ing of the Atlantic Railroad in (590-sq-km) Frontier Corridor
1890, the town was the main A verdant trail in the rainforests of National Wildlife Refuge
gateway between San Jos Selva Verde protects a wide strip of Costa
and the Caribbean Sea. While Rican territory along the
the port trade has reduced, Selva Verde e border with Nicaragua, from
pangas (water-taxis) still Baha Salinas on the west
connect the town to Parque Road Map D2. 5 miles (8 km) W of coast to Punta Castillo on the
Nacional Tortuguero (see Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu. Tel 2766- east. The eastern part of the
p167) and Barra del Colorado 6800. @ San JosPuerto Viejo via refuge runs along Ro San
via Ro San Juan. Boats also Vara Blanca. # 7am3pm daily. & Juan. Lined with virgin rain-
set out on nature excursions. 8 0 = www.selvaverde.com forest, this broad river flows
Banana trees cover most 120 miles (195 km) east
of the Llanura de San Carlos One of the countrys best from Lake Nicaragua to Punta
flatlands around Puerto Viejo. private reserves, the 470-acre Castillo, and has long been
Bananero La Colonia, a (190-ha) Selva Verde (Green disputed by the two nations.
processing factory in the Forest) reserve adjoins Parque Pangas link Puerto Viejo de
middle of banana fields, Nacional Braulio Carrillo (see Sarapiqu to Trinidad village,
welcomes visitors. p91). A prime destination at the confluence of Ros
for birders, the virgin low- Sarapiqu and San Juan. The
Bananero La Colonia elevation rainforest is home river trip through the reserve
3 miles (5 km) SE of Puerto Viejo.
to over 420 bird species, is splendid for spotting sloths,
Tel 2768-8683. & 8 by appt. =
www.bananatourcostarica.com
including eight species of crocodiles, and myriad birds,
parrots. Ocelots, sloths, including oropendolas and
capuchin monkeys, and rare chestnut-bellied herons.
mantled howler monkeys are
among the 120 species of Environs
mammals to be seen. Poison- Boca San Carlos, 24 miles
dart frogs are numerous, as (39 km) upstream of Trinidad
are snakes, although these are on Ro San Juan, has an air-
difficult to spot. Several of strip and can also be reached
Selva Verdes 500 species by a dirt road. It is a gateway
of butterflies can be seen for river journeys into Nicara-
in a netted butterfly garden. gua. Nearby, Laguna del
Guided canoe trips are Lagarto is a private reserve
offered on Ro Sarapiqu, protecting 2 sq miles (5 sq km)
which runs through Selva of virgin rainforest and
Verde. Naturalist guides can swamps. Elusive manatees
be hired, and maps are pro- inhabit the lagoons, and a
vided for the well-maintained nature lodge offers a good
Water-taxis on Ro San Juan at trails. The reserve also has a base for wildlife viewing. The
Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu lodge with comfortable rooms. restored, 17th-century, mossy
hilltop fort of Fortaleza de la
Inmaculada Concepcin, near
FRESHWATER SHARKS the Nicaraguan hamlet of El
The presence of sharks in freshwater Castillo, 25 miles (40 km)
Lake Nicaragua has been a puzzle upstream of Boca San Carlos,
for centuries. In the 1970s, scientists is worth a visit. Its small
tagged individual sharks with elec- museum recalls the days when
tronic monitors and found that they Spanish defenders fought back
migrate along Ro San Juan between pirates and an English invasion
the Caribbean Sea and the lake, a fleet led by Lord Nelson.
distance of 106 miles (169 km).
These euryhaline sharks, capable O Laguna del Lagarto
of living in both fresh- and saltwater, Bull shark in the waters of
10 miles (16 km) S of Boca San
Carlos. Tel 2289-8163. 8 0
are even able to navigate rapids. Lake Nicaragua
http://lagarto-lodge-costa-rica.com
Costa Ricas Snakes

Costa Rica has almost 140 species therefore, seldom seen. They
of serpientes or culebras, of rarely strike unless threatened,
which only 18 are venomous. and chances of the casual
Snakes slither about in visitor being bitten are slim
habitats ranging from savanna most bites are inflicted on
to montane rainforest; there field laborers. Hikers should
are also pelagic species found keep an eye on the trails and
in the sea. While many species look carefully before parting
are flamboyantly colored, most foliage or placing their hands
are camouflaged in shades of Mural at the
on branches or in holes. Sturdy
green and brown. Most snakes Snake Garden, shoes that protect the ankles
are nocturnal creatures and, La Virgen are recommended.
SNAKE SPECIES Serpentarios

Costa Ricas snakes belong to nine families, (snake farms)
including Elapidae (coral snakes), Boidae permit visitors to
(boas), and Viperidae (vipers). Most other view and handle
snakes belong to the Colubridae family. snakes in safe
environments
Camouflage is provided by the Hood-like scales with experienced
eyelash vipers banana-yellow above its eyes give handlers.
or lime-green skin. this viper its name.
Pencil-thin, with long,

pointed snouts, vine
snakes rarely grow more
than a foot (30 cm) long.
Eyelash vipers (bocarac) are highly venomous, with syringe-like

fangs. Their upper jaws have heat sensors capable of detecting
and tracking warm-blooded prey in complete darkness.
The fer-de-lance
(terciopelo), camou- Vine snakes (bejuquillo)
flaged by its brown and are commonly found inside
gray skin, inhabits grasslands bromeliads, from where they
and riverbanks. Fast-moving and ambush frogs and birds.
aggressive, this massive snake is Their I-beam bodies support
responsible for the majority of them as they negotiate
fatal snake bites in Costa Rica. branches in search of prey.
Coral snakes Boas (boa) are relatively shy, and although

(corl) are very non-venomous, have large teeth capable of
venomous. Costa inflicting a serious bite. They
Rica has four can exceed 13 ft (4 m) in
species, brightly length, and kill prey by
colored in coiling around it and
bands of red, squeezing it to death.
black, and white
or yellow.
Sarapiqu
Heliconia Island y
Road Map D2. 5 miles (8 km) S of
Puerto Viejo. Tel 2761-5220. @ San
Jos Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu via PN
Braulio Carrillo. # 8am5pm daily,
by appointment. & 8 0
www.heliconiaisland.com
This beautifully laid-out

garden on the banks of
Ro Puerto Viejo was created
in 1992 by the American
Broad-billed motmot, La Selva Biological Station naturalist Tim Ryan and is
now run by Dutch owners.
and other big cats prowl the Hundreds of tropical plant
La Selva Biological forests, preying on monkeys, species grow amid the lush
Station t coatis, and deer, which are 5-acre (2-ha) lawns. The
among La Selvas 120 mammal garden specializes in helico-
Road Map D2. 2 miles (3 km) species. Leafcutter ants are nias, of which it has more
S of Puerto Viejo. Tel 2766-6565. underfoot everywhere, than 80 species from
@ OTS shuttles from Puerto Viejo carrying their scissored around the world.
& San Jos. # 8am5pm by appt. cargos. About half of Various species of
& 8 8am and 1:30pm. 7 0 = Costa Ricas bird species gingers thrive here,
www.ots.ac.cr have been sighted here; and also a superb
the annual 24-hour La collection of bamboos
Created by the scientist Dr. Selva Christmas Bird and orchids. Equally
Leslie Holdridge in 1954, La Count has become impressive are the
Selva Biological Station has a pilgrimage for palms, which include the
been run as a private research ornithologists from travelers palm, native
facility by the Organization of around the world. A Tropical to Madagascar. It is so
Tropical Studies (OTS) since basic bird-watching heliconia named because in an
1968. Scientific research at this course is offered on emergency, travelers
6-sq-mile (15-sq-km) reserve Saturday mornings. can drink the water that is
spans physiological ecology, Access to the reserve is stored in its stalk.
soil science, and forestry, restricted to 65 people at any Hummingbirds hover as
with over 1,000 tree species given time, and although it is they sip nectar. Violaceous
in the Holdridge Arboretum. open to the public by reser- trogons and orange-chinned
The predominant habitat vation, scientists and students parakeets are among the
is a vast swathe of lowland get priority. Over 31 miles more than 200 species of
and premontane rainforest at (50 km) of boardwalk trails birds drawn to the exotic
the base of Parque Nacional crisscross La Selva, but precipi- flora. Rare green macaws nest
Braulio Carrillo (see p91). tation can exceed 157 in in almendro (almond) trees
Snakes, although profuse, are (400 cm) in a year, and many and are frequently sighted.
rarely seen. More noticeable trails are muddy. The gift shop Guided tours impart fasci-
are poison-dart frogs, enam- has self-guiding booklets. OTS nating trivia on tropical plant
eled in gaudy colors, and offers guided excursions from ecology. The torchlit night-
more than 500 species of San Jos that include transport. time tours are especially
butterflies, including neon Dormitory lodging is offered rewarding. The river has calm
blue morphos. Elusive jaguars on a space-available basis. stretches safe for swimming.
POISON-DART FROGS
The rainforests of Central and South America are inhabited
by poison-dart frogs, so named because Indians use their
poison to tip their arrows and blow-darts. About 65 separate
species exist, although only three species are deadly to
humans (none are found in Costa Rica). The frogs, which are
no more than an inch (3 cm) long, produce the bitter toxin
in their mucous glands and advertise this with flamboyant
colors mostly vivid reds, greens, and blues to avoid
being eaten by predators. Thus, unusually for frogs, they
are active by day among the moist leaf litter. Several
species of non-toxic frogs mimic their coloration. In captivity,
poison-dart frogs tend to lose their toxicity, which they
A colorful poison-dart frog derive from their principal diet of ants and termites.
Rara Avis u BANANAS

Road Map D2. 17 miles (27 km) Costa Rica is the worlds seventh
S of Puerto Viejo. Tel 2764-1111. largest banana producer and its
@ San JosLas Horquetas. 8 0 second largest exporter. Plantations
www.rara-avis.com cover 195 sq miles (500 sq km) of
the nation. Massive tracts of protec-
This world-famous rainforest ted rainforest are felled each year to
reserve was among the first plant bananas, and many chemicals
private reserves in Costa Rica. are used to maintain output. When
Adjoining Parque Nacional washed out to sea, these chemicals
Braulio Carrillo and La Selva, kill fish, poison the waters, and
the 4-sq-mile (10-sq-km) foster the growth of plants that
Rara Avis is perched on the choke estuaries and corals. As a
remote northeast slopes of result of environmental campaigns,
Volcn Chato at an elevation Ripening fruit at a the banana industry now follows
of 2,300 ft (700 m). banana plantation more ecologically sensitive practices.
The brainchild of entre-
preneur Amos Bien, who
created it in 1983, Rara Avis skim the floor of the rain-
pioneered the notion of
Rainforest Aerial forest and then soar above
generating income through Tram i the trees on a 2-mile (3-km)
ecologically sustainable circuit. The 90-minute tour is
ventures in protected primary Road Map D3. Hwy 32, 25 miles preceded by a video, which
forests. Its selective farming (40 km) NE of San Jos. Tel 2257- describes the construction of
projects include a butterfly 5961. @ San JosGupiles. the $2 million system, and the
farm and philodendron and # 9am4pm Mon; 6:30am4pm flora and fauna to be seen. A
orchid cultivation. TueSun. & 8 7 0 = naturalist guide accompanies
Trails wander through www.rainforesttram.com each gondola to assist visitors
pristine mid-elevation in spotting and identifying
rainforest. The biodiversity is Offering a new view of the wildlife. Howler and white-
impressive, from anteaters, forest canopy, this automated faced monkeys are occasion-
spider monkeys, and exploration system ally seen at close quarters,
porcupines to boa was conceived by as are iguanas, sloths, and
constrictors, coral the American snakes. Early morning and
snakes, red-eyed naturalist Dr. late afternoon are the best
tree frogs, Donald Perry times to spot wildlife, but
elusive jaguars while he was visitors should keep in mind
and pumas, and involved in scientific that the main aim of the
almost 400 species Porcupine in investigation at Rara journey is to learn about
of birds, including Rara Avis Avis. Inaugurated in rainforest ecology.
the umbrella bird, 1994, the Rainforest Trails lead to Ro Corinto,
sunbitterns, and the endan- Aerial Tram, also called El and guided birding trips
gered great green macaw. Telefrico, is the highlight of are offered, along with
A rappeling system lets you a 875-acre (355-ha) private frog, snake, and butterfly
get eye-to-eye with canopy nature reserve on the eastern exhibits. Accommodations
dwellers such as toucans and edge of Parque Nacional are in the form of cabins.
capuchin monkeys. The park Braulio Carrillo. Visitors ride Tour agencies nationwide
has several waterfalls, but in open gondolas that silently offer package excursions.
caution is required when
swimming in the pools that
form at their base.
Rara Avis is accessed by a
daunting track that is often
knee-deep in mud. Transfers
from Las Horquetas, on High-
way 4, are by tractor-drawn
canopied trailer, a bumpy
9-mile (14-km) journey that
takes an hour. Come
prepared for heavy rainfall,
which averages more than
200 inches (500 cm) per year.
Rubber boots are provided
for hikers. Overnight stays
are strongly recommended;
accommodation is in a choice
of rustic lodges. Rainforest Aerial Tram gondola at the start of its tour
THE CARIBBEAN
U
nique within the country for its Afro-Caribbean culture, this
region is steeped in traditions brought by Jamaican forebears,
which lend a colorful, laid-back charm to the ramshackle
villages that sprinkle the coast. One of Costa Ricas wettest regions, it
extends along 125 miles (200 km) of the Caribbean coastline between
the Nicaraguan and Panamanian borders. Stunning beaches line the
shore, and primordial rainforest merges with swampy lagoons in the
north and rises into the rugged Talamanca Mountains in the south.
After the closure of the The regions only significant town

port of Puerto Limn to is Puerto Limn, located mid-
trade in 1665 (see p43), way down the coast. North-
the Spanish made little ward, flatlands extend to
attempt to settle the region. the Nicaraguan border.
This drew pirates and smugglers, The coastal strip is backed
who induced slaves to cut precious by swampy jungles and
hardwoods for illicit trade. In the late freshwater lagoons that
19th century, Jamaican laborers and culminate in Tortuguero National
their families arrived to build the Park and Barra del Colorado National
Atlantic Railroad and work on Wildlife Refuge. A network of canals,
banana plantations. Succeeding gen- created in the 1960s to link Puerto
erations adopted a subsistence life of Limn with Barra, opened up this
farming and fishing, which continues otherwise virtually inaccessible
in todays Creole culture. Inland, region. South of Puerto Limn, the
descendants of the original indige- shore is lined with stupendous
nous tribes live in relative isolation in beaches. The communities of Cahuita
designated reserves in the Talamanca and Puerto Viejo are popular with
foothills, clinging to shamanism and surfers and a predominantly young
other traditional practices. crowd seeking offbeat adventure.
Brightly colored wooden house in the village of Cahuita
Palms lining the surfing beach Playa Chiquita, near Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
Exploring the Caribbean Punta Castillo
With several national parks and wildlife refuges, the

humid Caribbean has as its jewel Parque Nacional
Tortuguero, with its dense rainforests, raffia palm
swamps, and exotic range of fauna. Farther north,
n
n Ju a
rain-sodden Barra del Colorado attracts anglers. The Sa
R o Barra del
port town of Puerto Limn is a gateway to the villages Ro Colorado
C o l ora d o
of Cahuita and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, vibrant
centers of indigenous Afro-Caribbean culture.
AL
Parque Nacional Cahuita, which adjoins R E F U GI O NAC I ON E
D E S I L V E S TR
Cahuita village, also protects a small coral FA U N A O
B ARR A DEL COL ORA D
reef. Fine beaches extend south to Gandoca-
R o Chirrip
Manzanillo, a coastal wetland harboring
manatees and also an important nesting site erte
Su Tortuguero
for marine turtles. Several horticultural venues Encina Ro Canta Gallo
along Highway 32 exhibit tropical flora.
PA T
O QU
R
Porvenr R E
Milln T U N A
GU C I
Cariari E O NA
I M NRO
L Zancudo L
R o Jimn
ez
Rita
EARTH Ro Jimnez
n
az
Puerto Viejo Gupiles Gucimo
de Sarapiqu Carmen
Blan co
ent
Re v
LAS CUSINGAS
R o
San
o
R
Alberto
San Jos Nuevo
Siquirres
u a re
ac
oP
R
Turrialba
SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Towns and Villages

Cahuita 9
Puerto Limn 3
Entrance to a house in Puerto Limn
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca q

Parque Nacional Cahuita 0
SEE ALSO Parque Nacional Tortuguero 5

Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre L
Barra del Colorado 6
Where to Eat pp2356 Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre
Gandoca-Manzanillo w
Reserva Biolgica Hitoy-Cerere 8
Veragua Rainforest Research and
KEY Adventure Park 7
Major road Areas of Natural Beauty
Secondary road EARTH 2
Las Cusingas 1
Minor road
International border Tour

Canal de Tortuguero Tour p166 4
Provincial border
Canal Indigenous Sites

Indigenous Reserves e

T H E C A R I B B E A N 163
Beach at Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
CANAL DE
TORTUGUERO TOUR
Punta de Riel
Matina
Estrada
VERAGUA PUERTO
RAINFOREST Mon LIMN
RESEARCH &
ADVENTURE Isla Uvita
Chirrip
PARK
Petrleo Trbol
Aguas Zarcas
R o
Finca Banaga
A picker cushioning a large bunch of bananas, Cahuita
Chirrip Ro Penshurst
B ana Playa Negra
Abajo n o Finca 7 PARQUE NACIONAL
CAHUITA
Vesta CAHUITA
Cuen PUERTO VIEJO DE Playa
TALAMANCA Cocles REFUGIO NACIONAL
RESERVA BIOLGICA
HITOY-CERERE Bribri DE VIDA SILVESTRE
I M N Ro Telire
Manzanillo GANDOCA-MANZANILLO
Shiroles Gandoca
Telir INDIGENOUS
RESERVES n Bratsi
o
San Jos o C Sixaola
R
Cabcar
R o rn
PANAMA
U
0 km 20
Purisqui
0 miles 20
GETTING AROUND
Highway 32, linking San Jos to Puerto Limn, is heavily trafficked, particularly along the
mountainous sections. A bus service provides easy access to Cahuita and Puerto Viejo de
Talamanca. No roads penetrate to Tortuguero and Barra del Colorado, but both villages
have airstrips serviced by daily scheduled flights from San Jos. Another popular option is to
journey by canal tour operators can make arrangements. An infrequent bus service connects
the indigenous reserves along rough dirt roads an uncomfortable, albeit cheap, ride.
EARTH 2
Road Map D2. 1 mile (1.6 km)
E of Gucimo. Tel 2713-0000.
@ San JosPuerto Limn.
# 9am4pm daily. & 8 7 -
= www.earth.ac.cr
One of the worlds leading

tropical research centers, the
Escuela de Agricultura de la
Regin Tropical Hmeda
(Agricultural College of the
Humid Tropical Region)
focuses on ecologically sustain-
able practices. Founded in
Green honeycreeper, one of the species of birds found in Las Cusingas 1990, the center offers univer-
sity degrees. EARTH operates
Las Cusingas 1 32 different species grown its own experimental banana
in a bamboo garden. plantation, banana processing
Road Map D3. 2 miles (3 km) S of Located on the borders of plant, and paper-making plant
Hwy 32, 37 miles (59 km) E of San Parque Nacional Tortuguero that uses banana skins. There
Jos. @ San JosGupiles, then by and Refugio Nacional de Fauna are guided tours and nature
jeep-taxi or hiking. n 2382-5805. # Silvestre Barra del Colorado trails through a 990-acre
8:30am4:30pm daily. & 8 0 (see p167), Finca La Suerte (400-ha) primary rainforest;
offers superb opportunities horses can also be hired.
This botanical garden, spread for wildlife-viewing in a
over 35 acres (14 ha) near variety of habitats, including Environs
the less-than-appealing town rainforests and marshes. More than 600 species of
of Gupiles, undertakes Poison-dart frogs (see p158) tropical flowers, including
scientific investigation into and monkeys are particularly several varieties of heliconia,
tropical flora, fruits, and more abundant. This private paint the landscape in
than 80 species of medicinal educational and research riotous color at Costa
plants. Hummingbirds, center specializes in Flores. Spread over 300
parrots, and scores of other residential workshops acres (120 ha), it is
birds flock to feed on the in tropical ecology, and the worlds largest
nectar and seeds. There are offers overnight accom- commercial farm for
two short forest trails, one of modation. It can be tropical flowers. A 12-mile
which leads to Ro Santa Clara accessed from Gupiles (19-km) long monorail
and 10 sq miles (26 sq km) of by buses that pass Heliconia, system is used for
protected forest. The visitor through the community Costa Flores picking and taking the
center, which includes a of Cariari. blooms to the hangar-
library, offers an introduction sized packing area. Humming-
to reforestation, conservation, .E Gallery at Home birds, the sole pollinators of
tropical ecology, and the use 330 yd (300 m) S of Hwy 32, heliconia, zoom around the
4 miles (6 km) W of Gupiles.
of medicinal plants. landscaped gardens, which
Tel 2711-0823. # by appointment.
Guided tours are offered, $ patricia_erickson@amerisol.com
is dotted with ponds.
each about 2 hours long. A
rustic family-size cabin with O Finca La Suerte por
n.ds Costa Flores
a wood-fired oven can be La Primavera, 27 miles (43 km) 9 miles (14 km) E of Gupiles.
NE of Gupiles. Tel 2710-8005. Tel 2716-6430. # 8am4pm
rented, and visitors can dine # 9am5pm daily. & 8 7 0 MonFri, by appointment Sat & Sun.
with the friendly Tico owners. www.lasuerte.org &87
Environs
Acclaimed American-born
artist Patricia Erickson
welcomes visitors to her
studio Gallery at Home,
which displays her vibrant
paintings inspired by scenes
of Caribbean family life. To
get there, turn south at Ro
Blanco; the studio is a short
way down, on the left. Across
the street, her husband Brians
Muebles de Bamboo offers
a chance to watch bamboo
furniture being made, using Sign for EARTH, a center for tropical research
province. The park, which

features a bust of Don Vargas,
is at the east end of the
pedestrian-only Avenida 2
(also known as El Bulevar).
Nearby, a beautiful mural by
artist Guadalupe Alvarez
depicts local history since
pre-Columbian days.
Puerto Limn has some
intriguing architecture, with
pretty filigreed iron balconies
in the style of New Orleans.
To the west of Parque Vargas,
the cream-colored stucco
Belle Epoque Alcada (Town
Hall) is a fine example. Other
Bust of Don Balvanero Vargas in structures are classics of the Shoppers outside Mercado Central
Puerto Limns Parque Vargas Caribbean vernacular style, in Puerto Limn
made of wood and painted in
Puerto Limn 3 lively tropical pastels, with Nocturnal bar-life in Puerto
broad balconies on stilts Limn is lively and colorful
Road Map F3. 100 miles (160 km) beneath which locals gather but somewhat seedy, and
E of San Jos. * 85,000. ~ @ g to play dominoes. Visit the there is drug trading. Visitors
_ Black Culture Festival (Sep); Da lively Mercado Central, to the should generally be cautious;
de las Culturas (Oct 12). north of the museum, for avoid Parque Vargas at night.
everything from pigs heads
Located in the bay where to freshly caught fish. Environs
Christopher Columbus and Local surfers find their fun off
his son Fernando anchored in Playa Bonita, 2 miles (3 km)
1502, the port town of Puerto north of town. This gold-sand
Limn had its origins in early beach gets crowded on week-
colonial days. Used by pirates ends with Limonenses, as the
and smugglers for trading towns inhabitants are known.
mahogany and other tropical Swimming in the south end of
hardwoods, the settlement the bay is dangerous. A mile
thrived on this illicit traffic (1.6 km) to the north of Playa
under the nose of the Spanish Bonita, Mon is where Costa
authorities. The town has a Ricas crude oil is processed
large Chinese population, and bananas loaded for ship-
whose forebears arrived ment to Europe and North
during the 1880s as inden- America. Boats leave from here
tured laborers for the con- for Tortuguero (see p167).
struction of the Atlantic
Railroad. A small Chinese = Mercado Central
Calles 3/4 and Aves Central/2.
cemetery at the entrance to Detail of mural by Guadalupe
# 6am6pm daily.
the town honors this Asian Alvarez near Parque Vargas
heritage. Today, the port
handles most of the nations
CARNAVAL
sea trade; the main highway
into town is crowded with In the second week of October, Puerto Limn erupts into
container trucks throughout kaleidoscopic color for Carnaval (see p37), a week-long
the day. The maritime facili- Caribbean Mardi Gras celebration
ties have been expanded culminating on Da de las Culturas
to serve cruise ships plying (Columbus Day). Special buses
the Caribbean coast. bring revelers from San Jos, and
Columbus supposedly the city packs in as many as
landed at Isla Uvita, half a 100,000 visitors. Live reggae, salsa,
mile (1 km) offshore. His and calypso get everyone dancing.
landfall is commemorated by Other amusements include beauty
a bronze bust, which was contests, bull-running, desfiles
unveiled in 1992, in time for (parades), street fairs, and firework
the 500th anniversary of his displays. The highlight is the Grand
arrival in the Americas. The Desfile, a grand parade of flamboy-
bust faces Parque Vargas, a ant costumes and floats held on the
tiny tree-shaded park named Saturday before October 12. Most Extravagantly dressed
after Don Balvanero Vargas, a events take place on the docks. dancers at Carnaval
former governor of Limn
Canal de Tortuguero Tour 4
Travel along the Caribbean seaboard became

possible with the building of the Tortuguero
canal system in 196674. Four canals make
up this 65-mile (105-km) long aquatic high-
way, which connects the port of Mon to
Barra del Colorado village, and is lined
Kingfisher with rainforest. Narrow in places, when
the looming forest seems to close in on
the water, the canal offers the chance of fascinating
boating trips, with sightings of caimans and river A tourist boat moving through
turtles, and birds such as aricaris and kingfishers. the Tortuguero Canal
Cao de Penitencia 6
Opening into Ro Colorado,
this canal links Tor-
tuguero to Barra del
Colorado. To the
north, Cao de Palma
R o San Jua n
canal offers an
exhilarating shortcut
through yolillo
swamp and raffia Laguna del Tortuguero 5
palm forests. do At Tortuguero, the canal opens into a
lora
Barra del wide, 4-mile (6-km) long lagoon, whose

Co
b
R o Colorado banks are lined with nature lodges.
0 km 10 CARIBBEAN SEA Puesto Jalova 4

The southern
0 miles 10
gateway to Parque
Nacional Tortuguero
is marked by a
ranger station from
Tortuguero b
where trails lead
Parque into the forest.
Nacional
o Tortuguero
er
gu
tu
r
To
Ro
Barra de Parismina 3
This hamlet near the
mouth of Ro Parismina
Cao Blanco 2
is considered Costa
Organized tour boats depart and Ricas best spot to
arrive at this small dock on Ro R o
Parismina b
P a rismina hook snook. Watch

Matina, amid banana planta- out for sand flats that
o
tions. Roseate spoonbills are R ntaz n
Mon 1 v beach unwary boats.
e
frequently seen on the banks.

Re
The terminus of
the Tortuguero Canal
is also Costa Ricas re
TIPS FOR THE TRIP acu a
oP
main banana-loading
R
Tour boats: Most visitors travel port. Private tour boats

on private boats owned by lodges. wait here for custom.
Carry warm clothing as it can be
cold on the boat. KEY
Time taken: 2.5 hours. Major road
Stopping-off points: Parismina Puerto
has fishing lodges and simple
Canal de Tortuguero Limn
b
restaurants. Tour boats will stop International border

on request.
Park boundary
a new ethic as conservationists.

The John H. Phipps Biological
Station and Natural History
Visitors Center has excellent
displays on local ecology,
especially marine turtles.
O John H. Phipps Biological

Station and Natural History
Visitors Center
550 yd (500 m) N of Tortuguero
village. Tel 2709-8091.
# 10amnoon and 25pm
MonSat; 25pm Sun. &
Refugio Nacional de
Fauna Silvestre Barra
A guide escorting a tour group through Parque Nacional Tortuguero del Colorado 6
For most visitors, the star Road Map E2. 21 miles (34 km) N of
Parque Nacional attraction is the green turtle, Tortuguero. Tel 2709-8086. g from
Tortuguero 5 which nests between June and Tortuguero, Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu,
November. Three other species and Pavona. # 8am4pm daily.
Road Map E2. 32 miles (52 km) of marine turtles also come & included with PN Tortuguero.
N of Puerto Limn. Tel 2709-8086. ashore throughout the year,
g from Pavona, Mon, and Cao although in lesser numbers. Connected to Parque Nacional
Blanco. # 6am6pm daily; last Entry to the beach is strictly Tortuguero by Cao de
admission: 5pm. & 8 regulated at night only two Penitencia, this 350-sq-mile
tour groups are allowed each (910-sq-km) refuge extends
Created to protect the most night, escorted by guides from north to the border with
important nesting site of the the local cooperative. Nicaragua. The flooded
green turtle in the Western Note that there are no marshes, teeming rainforest,
Hemisphere, the 73-sq-mile roads to the park; access is and vast raffia palm forests are
(190-sq-km) Tortuguero by boat or small planes that home to an abundant wildlife,
National Park extends along land at Tortuguero village. but despite this the refuge is
14 miles (22 km) of shoreline Local lodges organize guided virtually untapped as a wild-
and 19 miles (30 km) out to tours, and Tortuga Lodge erness destination. Crocodiles
sea. The Canal de Tortuguero (see p216) offers sportfishing. as well as birds such as jabiru
runs through the park, con- storks and endangered great
necting a labyrinth of deltas, Environs green macaws can be spotted,
canals, and lagoons. The villagers of Tortuguero, while tapirs, jaguars, and man-
With 11 distinct life zones to the north of the park at atees inhabit the deep forests
ranging from raffia palm forest the junction of Laguna del and swamps. The refuges
to herbaceous swamps, the Tortuguero and the Canal de many rivers have populations
park offers one of the most Tortuguero, traditionally made of tarpon, snook, and garfish,
rewarding nature experiences their living by lumbering or by and lodges catering to fishing
in the country. Although trails culling turtles. Today, tourism enthusiasts are centered
start from the ranger stations is the major source of employ- around Barra del Colorado at
at the northern and southern ment, and locals have learned the mouth of Ro Colorado.
ends of the park, this watery
world is best seen by boat:
MANATEES
the wide canals allow grand-
stand wildlife viewing, and The endangered West Indian manatee (Trichechus
silent approaches on the water manatus), or sea cow, is found in lagoons and coastal
permit unusually close contact habitats. With front flippers and a
with the fauna. River otters, paddle-like tail, this hairless gray-
caimans, and howler, spider, brown mammal resembles a tusk-
and white-faced monkeys are less walrus. It feeds primarily on
easily sighted, as are birds aquatic vegetation such as water
such as oropendolas, toucans, hyacinths. Spending most of its
and jacamars and other water- time submerged, it is rarely seen.
fowl. A guide is strongly However, increasing encounters
recommended to avoid getting with manatees in Tortuguero and
lost in the waterways and to Barra del Colorado suggest that West Indian manatee
identify wildlife that might the population may be increasing. (Trichechus manatus)
otherwise be missed.
Veragua Rainforest
Research &
Adventure Park 7
Road Map F3. 18 miles (28 km) SW
of Puerto Limn. Tel 2296-5056. @
Puerto LimnLiverpool, then by jeep-
taxi. # 9am3pm daily. & 8 0
www.veraguarainforest.com
Opened in 2008, this 3,200-

acre (1,300-ha) reserve is One of Parque Nacional Cahuitas many beaches
used for ecological research
by INBio, whose laboratory of ecologically sustainable wooden houses, some of
is open to visitors. You can farmland and rainforest. It which stand on stilts over the
walk through butterfly and offers guided hikes and sandy streets. Locals speak a
frog gardens, view snake and horseback rides, plus more patois English infused with a
insect exhibits, and hop adrenalin-charged activities, lilting accent, and the spicy
aboard an aerial tram for a such as waterfall rappeling. cuisine (see p222) owes much
ride downhill to riverside A 4WD vehicle is to Jamaican heritage. North of
trails, where poison-dart required to get here. the village are the black sands
frogs hop about under- Overnight stays in the of palm-fringed Playa Negra.
foot. There are also a Caribbean-style lodge
canopy zipline tour are recommended. Environs
and a restaurant. Piedmont is a local Aviarios del Caribe Wildlife
Poison-dart frog, organic tropical Refuge features the worlds
Veragua Rainforest fruit farm. Botanist only center devoted to sloth
Reserva Research & Pierre Dubois offers research and rescue.
Adventure Park
Biolgica guided tours.
O Aviarios del Caribe
Hitoy-Cerere 8 O Reserva Selva Bananito Wildlife Refuge
22 miles (35 km) SW of Puerto 5 miles (8 km) N of Cahuita.
Road Map F3. 28 miles (45 km) S of
Limn. Tel 2253-8118. & 8 0 Tel 2750-0775. # 7am2:30pm
Puerto Limn and 12 miles (20 km) www.selvabananito.com daily. & 8 www.slothrescue.org
SW of Hwy 36 at Penshurst. Tel
r Piedmont
2798-3170. @ from Puerto Limn
to Finca 12, further by jeep-taxi. #
Penshurst, 22 miles (31 km) S of
Puerto Limn. Tel 2750-0789. #
Parque Nacional
8am5pm daily. & www.sinac.go.cr 9am3pm daily. & 8 7 0 Cahuita 0
Lying near the head of the Road Map F3. 27 miles (43 km) S of
Ro Estrella valley and extend- Cahuita 9 Puerto Limn. Tel 2755-0461. @
ing up the western flanks Puerto LimnCahuita. # 6am5pm
of the Talamanca Mountains, Road Map F3. 27 miles (43 km) daily (Kelly Creek); 8am4pm Mon
the 38-sq-mile (100-sq-km) S of Puerto Limn. * 5,300. @ Fri, 7am5pm Sun (Puerto Vargas).
Hitoy-Cerere Biological _ Southern Caribbean Music & at Puerto Vargas ranger station;
Reserve appeals to hardy Festival (MarApr); Carnavalito by donation at Kelly Creek station.
hikers and nature lovers. Cahuita (early Dec).
It offers pristine rainforest Situated immediately south
habitats fed by heavy rainfall. With its Rastafarian culture, of Cahuita is this 4-sq-mile
July, August, November, and Cahuita (meaning mahogany (10-sq-km) park. Wildlife
December are the wettest point) is Costa Ricas most abounds, including armadillos,
months, when rivers thunder colorful village. Its Afro-Carib- rodent-like agoutis, and ant-
down the steep slopes. Large bean inhabitants live in bright eaters, as well as toucans and
mammals thrive amid the green macaws. Crocodile-like
dense forests, including all caimans can be seen in fresh-
six of Costa Ricas cat species water rivers, while parrot fish,
(see p113). Lucky visitors lobsters, and green turtles
might even spot the extremely swim around a depleted coral
rare harpy eagle. Note that reef off Playa Blanca. Swim-
this isolated refuge offers ming off Playa Vargas, farther
minimal infrastructure. to the south, is inadvisable;
waves pummel the long
Environs beach where marine turtles
Reserva Selva Bananito, nest. A 4-mile (6-km) trail
bordering Parque Internacional connects Cahuita villages
de La Amistad (see p179), Locals outside a snack bar in Kelly Creek ranger station
protects 5 sq miles (13 sq km) Cahuita village to the one at Puerto Vargas.
Along the Canal de Tortuguero, Parque Nacional Tortuguero
Costa Ricas Marine Turtles

Survivors from the age of the two or three years. Most nest at
dinosaur, turtles have remained their natal beach and return to it
virtually unchanged in their often to lay eggs at intervals of
physiology for 200 million years. several weeks. Costa Rica is
Marine turtles (Chelonidae) one of the worlds premier
can travel great distances, turtle-watching sites, and regu-
A turtle-shaped
using their powerful flippers planter made of lates entry of visitors to the
for propulsion, and often rubber tire major nesting sites. However,
cross entire oceans to feed, the countrys turtle species
mate, and lay eggs. Males spend their remain under threat: illegal poaching
whole lives at sea, while adult females of turtles and eggs continues, and
return to land to lay eggs once every hatchlings fall prey to other wildlife.
TURTLE SPECIES
Five of the worlds seven marine turtles species
nest year-round along Costa Ricas coasts. The
Caribbean coast is especially rich in turtle life.
Eggs are golf-ball sized and Thick skin,rather than a

often illegally harvested. shell, encases the skeleton.
Pacific/olive ridley turtles, the smallest of the

marine turtles, synchronize their egg-laying.
Tens of thousands nest at Playas Ostional
and Nancite (see p141).
The leatherback turtle, although found

across the worlds oceans, is critically endan-
gered. With the male weighing up to 2,000 lbs
(905 kg), this is worlds largest reptile. It nests
at several beaches in Costa Rica, most impor-
tantly at Playa Grande (see p136).
Green turtles, once Loggerhead

abundant, were turtles, seen in
decimated in the fewer numbers
19th century by in Costa Rica
hunting. Now, than other
Tortuguero is turtles, prefer the
an important Caribbean coast,
nesting site and are found
(see p167). in Tortuguero.
BEST PLACES NESTING

TURTLE
TO SEE SEASONS
PN Tortuguero (C) JunNov

Green
Playa Grande (P) MayAug
Hawksbill Gandoca-Manzanillo (C) MarAug
Gandoca-Manzanillo FebApr
Leatherback
(C) Playa Grande (P) OctApr
Loggerhead PN Tortuguero (C) Year-round

Hawksbill turtles, hunted for their
beautiful shells, rarely grow beyond
Playa Ostional and 36 inches (92 cm) and nest singly. They
Olive ridley AprDec
Playa Nancite (P)
are most easily spotted at Gandoca-
C Caribbean, P Pacific Manzanillo Wildlife Refuge (see p172).
Puerto Viejo de TUCUXI DOLPHIN

Talamanca q The rare tucux dolphin
(Sotalia fluviatilis)
Road Map F3. 8 miles (13 km) S of pronounced too koo
Cahuita. * 5,000. @ n 2750- shee lives in the
0191 (Talamanca Association for freshwater rivers and lagoons of Tucux dolphin
Ecotourism & Conservation/ATEC). Gandoca-Manzanillo and similar
environments. This small species grows to 6 ft (2 m) in
One of the Caribbean coasts length and is blue-gray with a pink belly and long snout. It
best surfing areas, Puerto Viejo is shy and generally avoids boats, but is known to interact
de Talamanca is also a must- with its larger sea-going cousin, the bottle-nosed dolphin.
visit destination for offbeat
travelers in Central America.
Little more than a collection alive at night, with revelers O Mariposario
of stilt-legged shacks a decade spilling onto the sands. 4 miles (6 km) S of Puerto Viejo.
ago, it has since expanded Tel 2750-0086.
rapidly. Although electricity Environs # 8am4pm daily. & 8
arrived in 1996, followed by A string of surfing beaches
a paved road in 2001, the Playa Cocles, Playa Uva, and Refugio Nacional
village retains an earthy, Playa Chiquita runs south
laid-back quality. from Puerto Viejo to the ham- de Vida Silvestre
Surfers come here between let of Manzanillo. A paved road Gandoca-
December and March to test lined with hotels and cabinas
their skills against the reef (see p197) lies along the Manzanillo w
break La Salsa Brava, shore, with forested hills
Road Map F4. 8 miles (13 km)
which can attain rising inland. Crazy
S of Puerto Viejo. Tel 2759-9001.
heights of up to Monkey Canopy Ride
@ from Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
21 ft (6.5 m). The whisks you between
# 8am4pm daily. 8 0
palm-fringed black treetops on a zipline.
sands of Playa The Mariposario
Negra curl north butterfly garden Enclosing a mosaic of habitats,
from town. North Detail of a statue at a sits on a ridge over- Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife
of the beach, Finca lodge in Puerto Viejo looking Playa Uva. Refuge is a mixed-use park
la Isla Botanical Gar- Public transport in occupied by settlements whose
den is an excellent place to these areas is limited, but inhabitants live in harmony
explore the coastal rainforest bicycles, scooters, and cars with the environment. Created
along well-kept trails. Brome- can be rented in Puerto Viejo. in 1985, this 32-sq-mile
liads are a specialty of this (83-sq-km) reserve extends
12-acre (5-ha) garden, which O Finca la Isla Botanical out to sea, protecting a coral
also grows exotic fruits and Garden reef and 17 sq miles (44 sq
0.5 mile (1 km) NW of Puerto Viejo.
ornamental plants. A self- km) of marine habitat where
Tel 2750-0046. # 10am4pm
guided booklet is available. FriMon. & 8 http://greencoast.
several species of turtles breed.
Puerto Viejo has some of com/garden.htm The Costa Rican conservation
the best budget accommoda- society Asociacin ANAI runs
tion in Costa Rica, as well Crazy Monkey Canopy Ride a volunteer program for those
8 miles (13 km) S of Puerto Viejo.
as numerous colorful and who are keen to assist with
Tel 2271-3000. & 8 8am & 2pm
outstanding eateries. Open- daily. www.almondsandcorals.com
research and protection of
air bars and discos come turtles. On land, the refuge
The beach at Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo
has mangrove swamp, rare

yolillo palm swamp and cativo
forest, and tropical rainforest,
all swarming with wildlife.
Manatees and tucux inhabit
the lagoons and estuaries.
The waters are also important
breeding grounds for sharks,
game fish, and lobsters.
A coastal trail and several
inland ones often over-
grown and muddy afford
unparalleled opportunities
for spotting mammals and an
astounding diversity of birds,
amphibians, and reptiles. The Inside a house in the Reserva Indgena KekLdi
coast trail leads to Punta Mona
(Monkey Point) and Punta have managed to retain From Bamb, 6 miles
Mona Center, an educational much of their culture, (10 km) west of Bribri, a
institution and organic farm. native languages, animistic trip by dug-out canoe down
dances, and shamanistic Ro Yorkn leads to Reserva
Environs practices (see pp323). Indgena Yorkn, where
Aquamor offers scuba diving The most accessible reserve visitors housed in traditional
and snorkeling, plus kayaking is the Reserva Indgena lodgings gain an appreciation
and a dolphin-spotting trip KekLdi, spread across of indigenous culture.
into Gandoca-Manzanillo 14 sq miles (36 sq km) in Another reserve worth
Wildlife Refuge. A the hills southwest visiting in this area is the
local cooperative, of Puerto Viejo. Reserva Indgena Talamanca-
Guias MANT, also The reserves local Cabcar, reached from
offers guided trips conservation Shiroles along rugged dirt
into the reserve, projects include roads that push up the
plus fishing and a farm where valley of Ro Con. This
snorkeling. Finca Green iguanas raised on green iguanas remote settlement of the
Lomas, run by Reserva Indgena KekLdi are bred. The San Jos Cabcar is consid-
ANAI, is an exper- farm is located ered the most important
imental farm inside off the main road near Hone center of shamanism and
the refuge. Creek, a 30-minute walk from Indian culture. Guided hikes
Puerto Viejo. Farther south, and overnight visits to the
Asociacin ANAI beyond the regional adminis- reserves are arranged by
Manzanillo. Tel 2224-3570. trative center of Bribri, is the Talamanca Association
www.anaicr.org the Reserva Indgena for Ecotourism and
O Punta Mona Center Talamanca-Bribri. Centered Conservation (ATEC) in
3 miles (5 km) SE of Manzanillo. on Shiroles, 11 miles (18 km) Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.
Tel 2614-5735. # 8am5pm daily. southwest of Bribri, this Note that the only place
& 8 0 http://puntamona.org reserve encompasses the where a permit to visit is
Aquamor Valle de Talamanca, a broad not required is the iguana
Manzanillo. Tel 2759-9012. basin carpeted by plantations farm in the Reserva
# 7am6pm daily. www. of bananas. Trips to commu- Indgena KekLdi.
greencoast.com/aquamor.htm nities within the reserve are
Guias MANT offered by Albergue Finca Albergue Finca Educativa
Manzanillo. Tel 2759-9064. Educativa Indgena, an Indgena
Shiroles. Tel 8378-4181. # by
# 8am5pm daily. educational center and appointment. 8 0 - =
tourist lodge in Shiroles.
Indigenous
Reserves e SHAMANISM
The Bribri and Cabcar have a spirit-filled,
Road Map F4. @ to Bribri, then by animist vision of the world in which the
jeep-taxi. n 2750-0191 (ATEC). shaman-healer called aw by the Bribri and
jaw by the Cabcar is the central authority in
The indigenous Bribri and the community. Shamanic tools include magic
Cabcar peoples inhabit a stones, sete (medicine collars), uL (healing
series of fragmented reserves canes), and a whole pharmacy of medicinal
on the Caribbean slopes of herbs. These are used along with ritual
the Talamanca Mountains, song and dance to cure a person A Bribri
surviving primarily through Instrument used who is ill, or to restore harmony shaman
subsistence agriculture. in ritual music within the community. feather
These two related groups
THE SOUTHERN ZONE
F
rom world-class surfing and sportfishing to hardy mountain
hikes and scuba diving with hammerhead sharks, Costa Ricas
remote south is a setting for splendid adventures. Pre-
Columbian relics lie smothered in jungles that offer some of the finest
wildlife viewing in the nation. The countrys largest indigenous
communities live in isolated mountain retreats in this region.
Spanish conquistadors whales, as well as sportfishing
marched into the region boats from the town of Golfito.
to conquer the nomadic Isla del Cao floats on the
Chibchas and Diquis tribes, horizon. Considered sacred
and to search in vain, as it by pre-Columbian tribes, it
turned out, for gold. The coastal area contains ancient burial sites.
remained isolated and neglected To the southwest, unin-
throughout the colonial period and habited Isla del Coco is
beyond. In 1938, the United Fruit surrounded by teeming sealife.
Company arrived, and planted The Talamancas, in the northeast of
bananas across the valleys of the the region, rise to 12,530 ft (3,820 m)
Sierpe and Coto-Colorado Rivers; at the top of Cerro Chirrip. Here,
banana plantations are still the the Boruca and Guaym peoples
economic mainstay of the region. To struggle to maintain their cultures in
the north, the shore is hemmed by remote communities threatened by
the thickly forested Fila Costanera logging and other commercial
Mountains, while waves crash upon interests. Thick forests carpet the
gray-sand beaches. Farther south, the rugged peaks, forming a virginal
Peninsula de Osa is deluged with environment where jaguars, tapirs,
rains that feed a huge swathe of and other endangered species thrive.
emerald green rainforest. The penin- Between the two mountain ranges,
sula hooks around Golfo Dulce a the fertile Valle de El General is a
calm bay attracting dolphins and breadbasket of agricultural produce.
A hiker surveying the vast expanse of Parque Nacional Chirrip
A school of jackfish circling round in the waters off Isla del Coco
Exploring the Southern Zone

The jungled shore of the Southern Zone is peppered
with some of the countrys finest beaches, including 0 km 20
those at Baha Drake, Zancudo, and Parque Nacional
Marino Ballena. Surfers flock to Dominical and Pavones, 0 miles 20
while Golfito is a base for sportfishing. Whales and

dolphins cavort in offshore waters, especially around
Isla del Cao, while experienced divers can swim 4BO+PT
with hammerhead and whale sharks at remote Isla ,
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SIGHTS AT A GLANCE
Towns and Villages Parque Nacional Chirrip Reserva Forestal del Humedad
Dominical 8 pp18081 4 Nacional Terraba-Sierpe w
Golfito y Parque Nacional Isla del Coco o
Palmar q Parque Nacional Marino Areas of Natural Beauty
Pavones i Ballena 9 Cerro de la Muerte 1
San Isidro de El General 2 Parque Nacional Piedras Las Cruces Biological Station 6
Zancudo u Blancas t Peninsula de Osa pp18891 r
Refugio Nacional de Valle del Ro Chirrip 3
National Parks and Reserves Vida Silvestre Bar 7
Parque Internacional La Reserva Biolgica Isla del Indigenous Site
Amistad 5 Cao e Reserva Indgena Boruca 0

T H E S O U T H E R N Z O N E 177
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-ATAPALO #BODP 'UAYM
transportation in this region, although
more remote sights are accessible only
by jeep-taxi or cheap but uncomfortable
colectivos (pickup trucks).
-BT1FBT Highway 2 (the Pan-American
Highway) is paved, as is Highway 16
0ENINSULA through the Valle de Coto Brus, but
DE"URICA most connecting routes are potholed dirt
SEE ALSO
roads that are covered with mud after
Where to Stay pp21619 rains. Many nature lodges on the Osa
Peninsula and the Golfo Dulce shores
Where to Eat pp2367
can be reached only by water-taxi.
San Isidro de O Los Cusingos Neotropical

El General 2 Bird Sanctuary
Quizarr de Prez Zeledn,
9 miles (14 km) SE of San Isidro.
Road Map E4.
n 2200-5472 (Tropical Science
51 miles (82 km) S of Cartago.
Center). # 7am4pm daily
* 41,200. @ n Selva Mar, (to 1pm Sun), by appt. & 8
Calle 1 and Aves 2/4, 2771-4582.
_ Da de San Isidro Labrador
(May 15).
The peaceful market town

of San Isidro de El General
sits at the base of Cerro de
la Muerte and is the admin-
istrative center for Valle de
El General. For tourists, it
serves mainly as a refueling
stop and as a convenient
Winding road in the valley of Cerro base for exploring Chirrip
de la Muerte and Parque Internacional
La Amistad. The only sight
Cerro de la of interest in town is the
modern, concrete cathedral.
Muerte 1 Built in 1967 and located
on the east side of the plaza,
Road Map D4. 31 miles (50 km) S the cathedral has stained- Works of art at the Museo el
of Cartago. @ San JosSan Isidro. glass windows and a simple Pelicano, Valle del Ro Chirrip
altar, which is dominated
Cerro Buenavista is popularly by a mural of San Isidro
called Cerro de la Muerte Labrador, patron saint of Valle del Ro
(Mountain of Death), in San Isidro. Chirrip 3
remembrance of the people
who died of exposure while Environs Road Map E4. 6 miles (10 km) E of
taking their produce to San Bird-lovers are in for a treat San Isidro. @ from San Isidro.
Jos before the Pan-Am at Los Cusingos Neotropical
Highway was built across it. Bird Sanctuary. Administered This valley is scythed from the
The highway, connecting by the Tropical Science Talamanca Mountains by the
San Jos with the Valle de Center of Costa Rica, this turbulent Ro Chirrip. Trout
El General, passes below 350-acre (142-ha) refuge swim in the rivers waters, and
the actual summit (11,500 ft/ for birds was founded by rapids provide kayaking thrills.
3,500 m), which is buffeted the eminent American A great place to stop in the
by high winds. The vegetation ornithologist Dr. Alexander valley is the fruit-and-coffee
is Andean pramo (grass- Skutch (19042004), co-author finca Rancho La Botija (see
land), with shriveled species of the authoritative volume p219), a popular destination
that have adapted to the Birds of Costa Rica. More for locals on weekends. Its
cold, boggy conditions. than 300 bird species have attractions include an antique
When the clouds part, there been noted in this sanctuary. sugarcane mill, restaurant, and
are superlative views. Also of note at this refuge accommodation. Nearby, the
The Prncipe de la Paz, a are the Indian petroglyphs roadside Piedra de los Indios
10 m- (30 ft-) high statue of that dot the grounds. (Rock of the Indians) bears
Christ, stands overlooking the pre-Columbian petroglyphs as
road just after the descent well as some modern graffiti.
from Cerro de la Muerte, The scenery grows more
about 4 miles (6 km) from dramatic and the climate more
San Isidro. A path leads to alpine as the road climbs into
the base of the statue, where the mountains to reach San
locals congregate for picnics. Gerardo de Rivas. Perching
It is also possible to climb to over the river gorge, this ham-
the top of the Prncipe de la let is the gateway to Parque
Paz to peer through the eyes. Nacional Chirrip. Close by,
Designed by Costa Rican Museo el Pelicano is a curiosity
sculptor Francisco Ulloa, for its inspired stone and
the statue was built as a timber art by coffee farmer
symbol of peace in 1979, Rafael Elizondo Basulta.
during the Nicaraguan civil Nearby, Aguas Termales has
war. This stretch of the Pan- natural thermal pools popular
Am Highway requires great The striking modern cathedral of with local families seeking to
caution avoid it at night. San Isidro de El General counter the chilly mountain
accommodation. Reached via

the small hill town of San Vito,
La Amistad Lodge (see p218)
is a good base for exploring
the southern Talamancas. This
cozy lodge, part of a cattle
and organic coffee estate,
provides access to the reserve
Zona Protectorado Las Tablas.
Horseback rides and guided
birding hikes to two mountain
camps are offered.
O Reserva Biolgica Durika
11 miles (18 km) N of Buenos Aires.
Tel 2730-0657. 8 0
www.durika.org
Variety of flora at the Chirrip Cloudbridge Reserve
air. A steep track, strewn with 675 sq miles (1,750 sq km) Las Cruces
boulders, leads past the trail- of the rugged Talamanca
head to the summit of Cerro Mountains, and ranges from Biological Station 6
Chirrip and ends at the Chir- elevations of 490 ft (150 m) to
rip Cloudbridge Reserve. The 11,650 ft (3,550 m) atop Cerro Road Map F5. 4 miles (6 km)
locally endemic parrot moun- Kamuk. This enormous park S of San Vito. Tel 2773-4004.
tain snake can be seen at this spans eight life zones, from @ San VitoCiudad Neily.
private reserve; there are also low montane rainforest to # 8am5pm daily. & 8 0 =
some good hiking trails. swampy high-altitude grass- www.ots.ac.cr
land. The diverse wildlife
E Museo el Pelicano includes five cat species and One of the worlds leading
Canaan, 10 miles (16 km) the endangered harpy eagle. tropical research and educa-
E of San Isidro. Tel 2742-5050.
With permits and a tional centers, Las Cruces
# 8am8pm TueSat. 0
guide, experienced hikers is run by the Organization
Aguas Termales can cross the Talamancas of Tropical Studies (OTS).
0.5 mile (0.8 km) NW of San on a trail that starts from The center is surrounded
Gerardo. Tel 2742-5210. by a 580-acre (235-ha)
the town of Buenos Aires,
# 7am6pm daily. &
38 miles (61 km) southeast mid-elevation forest,
O Chirrip Cloudbridge of San Isidro, and leads to in which an incredible
Reserve Reserva Indgena Tala- diversity of birds and
San Gerardo de Rivas, 12 miles manca-Cabcar (see p173). mammals can be seen
(20 km) E of San Isidro. n 2771-
The main ranger sta- along 6 miles (10 km)
1866. # 8am4pm daily. & 8
tion, a hostel, and an Ferns, Las of trails. Clouds
ecology exhibition are Cruces Biological envelop the reserve,
at Estacin Altamira, Station nourishing the many
Parque Nacional the recommended ferns, palms, bromeli-
Chirrip 4 entry point. All the official ads, and orchids laid out in
access points require 4WD. the 25-acre (10-ha) Wilson
See pp18081. Botanical Gardens, designed by
Environs distinguished Brazilian land-
East of Buenos Aires, Reserva scaper Roberto Burle-Marx.
Parque Biolgica Durika, a 3-sq-mile A riot of color in even the
(9-sq-km) forest reserve, is a rainiest of weather, the collec-
Internacional self-sufficient holistic commu- tion extends to greenhouses,
La Amistad 5 nity offering guided hikes, where varieties of tropical
vegetarian meals, and rustic plants are propagated.
Road Map F4. @ to Gucimo,
66 miles (107 km) SE of San Isidro,
then by jeep-taxi. n Estacin
THE RESPLENDENT QUETZAL
Altamira HQ, 31 miles (50 km) Costa Rica is home to the most striking of the
SE of Buenos Aires, 2730-0846. quetzal species (see p26) the resplendent quetzal
# 8am4pm daily. & 8 one of the most beautiful tropical birds. The male bird
has iridescent green feathers, blood-red chest, and
Extending into Panama, the 24-inch (60-cm) tail feathers; the female is less flamboy-
International Friendship Park ant. Pre-Columbian cultures worshiped the quetzal as a
is contiguous with other living depiction of Quetzalcoatl, the plumed serpent god.
protected areas that form the The males tail feathers, used in ceremonies,
Reserva de la Biosfera La Resplendent were considered more precious than gold; only
Amistad (Amistad Biosphere quetzal nobles and priests were allowed to wear them.
Reserve). It sprawls over
Parque Nacional Chirrip 4
Costa Ricas highest mountain, Cerro Chirrip

# / 3 4! 2 ) # !
(12,530 ft/3,820 m) is enfolded in the 194-sq-
mile (502-sq-km) Chirrip National Park. Part
of the Amistad Biosphere Reserve, the park
Red-tailed
protects three distinct life zones in rugged, 4HE3OUTHER N
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hawk virgin territory where wildlife flourishes with
minimal interference from humans. As many
as 60 percent of all wildlife species in Costa Rica are
found here, including all six types of wild cats (see
p113) and many endemic species of flora and fauna.
Glacial activity some 35,000 years ago carved small
U-shaped valleys and deposited moraines, still visible 1"$*'*$0$&"/
today. Spring is the best time for hiking, although weath-

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Parque Nacional Chirrip
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HIKING IN THE PARK

Most visitors hike to the summit
along a well-marked trail that
ascends 8,200 ft (2,500 m) from
the trailhead, near San Gerardo KEY
de Rivas. The 20-mile (32-km)
hike to the top and back nor- Minor road
mally takes two days, with an Park boundary
overnight stay near the summit.
Hire guide-porters in San Trail
Gerardo. An alternative route is Viewpoint
from Herradura via Cerro Uran.
Visitor information
Hikers in Parque Nacional Chirrip
Peak
VISITORS CHECKLIST
Road Map E4. 12 miles (19 km)
NE of San Isidro de El General.
@ to San Gerardo de Rivas,
2 miles (3 km) from the park.
n Ranger station, San Gerardo
de Rivas; 2771-3155 (Park office,
San Isidro de El General).
# 7:30am5pm daily; by
appointment. No more than 40
people allowed at a time.
May. & 8 mandatory.
by reservation.
Serene Lago San Juan, Parque Nacional Chirrip
0 km 2
Cerro Chirrip
The views in every direction from
0 miles 2 the summit are staggering
in clear weather. Hikers
usually stay overnight
at Centro Ambiental-
ista El Pramo, setting

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off early morning for

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the last leg of the trek

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to the top, which takes

90 minutes.
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largest population of tapirs.
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40 people in bunks. It has solar-
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Sabana de los Leones Los Crestones

(Savanna of the Lions) Marking the end of a steep 1.2-mile
is named for the pumas (2-km) long climb called
frequently seen on the La Cuesta de los Arrepen-
southern slopes.
tidos (Repentants Hill),
these dramatic vertical
Monte Sin Fe
(Faithless Mountain) rock formations
is reached by a steep were considered a
uphill section called sacred site by pre-
La Cuesta del Agua. Columbian Indians.
community consists mostly of

foreign surfers who settled
Parque Nacional
here. Its long beach extends Marino Ballena 9
south from the mouth of Ro
Bar to the fishing hamlet of Road Map D4. 11 miles (18 km)
Dominicalito. Experienced S of Dominical. Tel 2786-5392.
surfers are drawn by the @ from Dominical. # 6am6pm
beach, reef, and rivermouth daily. & 0 www.sinac.go.cr
breaks, but non-surfers
should beware of the riptides. Created to protect the nations
Zipline tour in Refugio Nacional de largest coral reef, Whale Marine
Vida Silvestre Bar Environs National Park stretches for 8
The thickly forested moun- miles (13 km) along the shore
Refugio Nacional tains south of Dominical, of Baha de Coronado, and
the Fila Costanera, are also extends 9 miles (14 km) out
de Vida Silvestre called Escaleras (Staircase). to sea. It is named after the
Bar 7 Here, Bella Vista Lodge (see humpback whales that gather
p217) offers horseback rides in the warm waters to breed
Road Map D4. 2 miles (3 km) and accommodation in a in the dry season between
N of Dominical. Tel 2787-0003. Colorado-style lodge with December and April.
@ DominicalQuepos. # 7am magnificent views. Nearby, The park incorporates
5:30pm daily. & 8 7 0 = Reserva Biolgica La Danta Las Tres Hermanas and Isla
www.haciendabaru.com is a small fruit farm where Ballena, which are important
visitors can enjoy splendid nesting sites for frigate birds,
A former cattle ranch and birding, hearty campesino brown boobies, and pelicans.
cocoa plantation, the 815-acre (peasant) food, back-to-basics Hawksbill and olive ridley
(330-ha) Hacienda Bar has accommodation, and a log- turtles nest on the palm-
varied habitats, including fired riverside hot tub. fringed beaches. Kayaking
2 miles (3 km) of beach that Highway 243 winds through and scuba diving trips can
draw nesting hawksbill and the Ro Bar valley, connecting be arranged.
olive ridley turtles. Turtle eggs Dominical to San Isidro. Tour
are collected and incubated in companies offer trips to Las Environs
a nursery for release. Bar has Cascadas Nauyaca, a dramatic, To the north, Refugio Nacional
more than 310 bird species two-tiered waterfall, which de Vida Silvestre Rancho
and several mammal species, is a 4-mile (6-km) Merced offers city-
such as jaguarundis and the horseback ride slickers a chance
arboreal kinkajous. There are away from the to play cowhand;
butterfly and orchid gardens. highway. Nearby, it also functions as
Guided tree-climbing, canopy Parque Reptilandia a wildlife refuge.
tours, kayak trips through the exhibits dozens of Nearby, Reserva
mangroves, hikes, horseback snakes and other Signage for RNVS Biolgica Oro Verde,
rides, and overnight stays in reptile species. Rancho Merced a family-run farm in
treetop tents are also on offer. the Fila Tinamaste
Reserva Biolgica La Danta Mountains, is known for its
Escaleras, 3 miles (5 km) SE of
birding. Inland, the twin
Dominical. Tel 8396-6206.
Dominical 8 8 by appointment. 0
hamlets of Tortuga Abajo
and Ojochal make a good
Road Map D4. 18 miles (29 km) } Las Cascadas Nauyaca base for exploring the area;
SW of San Isidro de El General. Platanillo, 6 miles (10 km) E of
Ojochal has two outstanding
* 1,400. @ Dominical. Tel 2787-8013. &
8 8am and 2pm.
restaurants. Sustainably oper-
ated, La Cusinga Lodge offers
The ultimate surfers destina- O Parque Reptilandia great wildlife on its trails.
tion, this village thrives on Platanillo. Tel 2787-8007.
# 9am9:30pm daily. & 8 O Refugio Nacional de Vida
the backpacker trade: the
Silvestre Rancho Merced
Uvita, 11 miles (18 km) S of
Dominical. Tel 2771-4582. 8
www.rancholamerced.com
O Reserva Biolgica Oro
Verde
2 miles (3 km) NE of Uvita.
Tel 2743-8072. 8 0 www.
costarica-birding-oroverde.com
g La Cusinga Lodge
3 miles (5 km) S of the Uvita
bridge, between Km 166 and
Km 167. Tel 2770-2549. 8 0
www.lacusingalodge.com
Surfers wading into the sea at the beach at Dominical
Costa Ricas Tropical Flowers

A luxuriant hothouse of bio- found on the parched lowlands,
diversity, Costa Rica nurtures while stunted dwarf forests and
over 15,000 known plant vivid clusters of pink, white,
species, including 800 types of and lilac impatiens grow at
ferns. Varieties of tropical flowers higher elevations. Flowering
such as cannas, plumerias, and Orchidbloom
trees color the tropical forests: the
begonias flourish in the warm and poinciana flames with vermilion
humid regions, as do bromeliads and blossoms, and the jacaranda drops its
other epiphytes, which draw moisture violet-blue, bell-shaped blooms to
and oxygen from the air. Cacti are form spectacular carpets in spring.
Heliconias are known for Bracts are

their unusual bracts. The flowerheads
lobster-claw heliconia (right) atop huge stems
that can grow up
has a yellow-tipped red bract.
to 25 ft (8 m).
Costa Ricas 30 native species
of heliconia thrive in areas
with plenty of moisture.
Large leaves
are typical of
heliconias,
of which the
banana plant
is a member.
Passion flowers
emanate a foul The Aristolochia, or
smell to attract Dutchmans pipe,
pollinators, espe- gives off a fetid odor
cially Heliconiinae resembling that of
butterflies. rotting flesh. This
draws flies, its
principal pollinators.
Anthuriums Ginger lilies have

have a large, hyacinth-
distinctive like flowers rich in
heart-shaped nectar. Introduced
spathe usually from Asia, these
red, white, or shoulder-high plants
greenish from which are common in
Bromeliads collect water in the flower spike protrudes. landscaped gardens.
their tightly wrapped, thick,
waxy leaves. Falling leaf
matter decays inside this whorl,
providing nutrients for the
ORCHIDS
plant and creating a self- More than 1,400 species of orchids
contained ecosystem. grow in Costa Rica, from sea level
to the heights of Chirrip (see
p81). The greatest numbers are
found below 6,000 ft (1,830 m).
Orchids range from the 0.03-inch
The bird (1-mm) wide liverwort orchid
of paradise (Platystele jungermannioides), the Detail of a mural show-
flowers from a dra- worlds smallest flower, to others ing various orchids
matic spathe with bright with pendulous 3-ft (1-m) long
orange sepals and vivid petals. All orchids have three petals and three sepals. Some
blue petals. Set at right have evolved unique features to attract specific pollinators:
angles to the stem, the for example, the markings on certain orchids are visible
spathe looks like a only to insects that can see in the ultraviolet spectrum.
birds head.
kayak tours are offered from

Reserva Indgena Sierpe, 9 miles (14 km) south
Boruca 0 of Palmar.
Road Map E5. 22 miles (35 km) SW

of Buenos Aires. @ from Buenos Reserva Biolgica
Aires. _ Fiesta de los Diablitos Isla del Cao e
(Dec 31Jan 2).
Road Map D5. 12 miles (19 km) W of
This is just one of several Baha Drake. n 2735-5580 (PN Cor-
indigenous reserves inhab- covado). g tours from Baha Drake,
ited by the Boruca and Bribri Manuel Antonio & Dominical. # 8am
in the mountains hemming 4pm daily. & www.sinac.go.cr
the Valle de El General.
Located in the Fila Sinancra Thrust from the sea by
Mountains, the reserve is tectonic forces, the 805-acre
known for its Fiesta de los (325-ha) uninhabited Isla del
Diablitos, as well as its carved Reserva Forestal del Humedad Cao was named a protected
jcaras (gourds) and balsa- Nacional Terraba-Sierpe reserve in 1976, along with
wood mascaras (masks). The 10 sq miles (26 sq km) of
women use traditional back- surrounding waters. Today,
strap looms to weave cotton Reserva Forestal it is administered as part of
purses and shawls. The ridge- del Humedad Parque Nacional Corcovado
top drive to the hamlet of (see p191). In the past, the
Boruca offers great views of Nacional Terraba- island was considered to be
the Ro Terraba gorge. Local Sierpe w sacred by the pre-Columbian
culture is showcased in the Diquis peoples.
Museo Comunitario Boruca. Road Map E5. 11 miles (18 km) The coral-colored beaches
Reserva Indgena Trraba W of Palmar. g n 2788-1212 are great for sunbathing. In
and Reserva Indgena Curr (Tours Gaviota de Osa). the shallows, coral reefs teem
flank the Boruca reserve. www.tourcorcovado.com with lobsters and fish, while
Reserva Indgena Cabagra, dolphins, whales, and manta
home to the Bribri, can be Created to protect the nations rays swim in the warm waters
accessed from the town of largest stretch of mangrove farther out. Diving is permit-
Brujo, 7 miles (11 km) south- forest and swamp, the ted in designated zones (see
east of Buenos Aires. With Terraba-Sierpe National Humid p252). Terrestrial wildlife is
visitors demonstrating a grow- Forest Reserve covers an area relatively limited, although
ing interest in indigenous of 85 sq miles (220 sq km) the lucky hiker might come
cultures, these remote between the deltas of the across four-eyed foxes, brown
communities are gradually Sierpe and Terraba Rivers. boobies, and ospreys.
opening up to tourism. Countless channels criss-cross Mossy pre-Columbian
this vitally important eco- tombs and granite esferas
E Museo Comunitario Boruca system, which fringes 25 miles (spheres) are scattered along
Boruca, 25 miles (40 km) SW of
(40 km) of coastline. a trail running from the
Buenos Aires. Tel 2730-1673.
# by request. &
Visitors kayaking in these beachfront ranger hut to a
quiet channels can see a lookout point. The trail winds
variety of wildlife, including past milk trees (Brosimum
basilisk lizards, iguanas, utile), named for their
Palmar q crocodiles, and caimans, as drinkable milky latex.
well as monkeys, coatis and Overnight stays are not
Road Map E5. 78 miles (125 km) crab-eating raccoons. The permitted. Lodges in the
SE of San Isidro de El General. birding opportunities are also Baha Drake area (see p190)
* 9,900. ~ @ excellent. Guided boat and offer day trips and diving.
Sitting at the foot of the Ro

Terraba valley, at the inter- FIESTA DE LOS DIABLITOS
section of Costanera Sur and At midnight on December 31, the Boruca gather to reenact
the Pan-Am Highway, Palmar the war between their ancestors and the Spanish conquis-
is the service center for the tadors. At the sound of a conch shell,
region. The town straddles men dressed in burlap sacking and
Ro Terraba, which flows west devil masks pursue a fellow tribesman
through the wide Valle de dressed as a bull. The diablitos (devils)
Diquis. Pre-Columbian esferas drink chicha (corn beer) and perform
de piedra (stone spheres) and theatrical skits recalling tribal events.
a centenarian steam locomo- After three days, the bull is symboli-
tive are displayed in the plaza Borucas in devil masks cally killed, metaphorically freeing
of Palmar Sur. Palmar Norte is the tribe from colonial repression.
the towns modern quarter.
The Mangroves of Coastal Costa Rica

Costa Ricas shores contain five wildlife. The tangled roots
of the worlds 65 species of buffer the action of waves, pre-
mangroves black, button- venting coastal erosion. They
wood, red, tea, and white. also filter out the silt washed
Mangroves are woody halophytes Crab found down by turbulent rivers: the
plants able to withstand in mangroves accumulated mud extends the
immersion in saltwater and land out to sea. Threatened by
form swampy forests in areas inun- the countrys coastal development, this
dated by tides. These communities are fragile ecosystem is now legally
of vital importance to the maritime protected, with the Terraba-Sierpe
ecosystem, fostering a wealth of reserve being the largest tract.
THE MANGROVE ECOSYSTEM

Mangroves grow in mud so dense that
there is little oxygen, and nutrients supplied
by decomposing leaf litter lie close to the
surface. Hence, most plants develop
interlocking stilt roots that rise above the
water to draw in oxygen and food.
Salt is expelled by mangroves in a variety
White mangroves have Black mangroves of ways. A few species are salt-excluders
smooth, rounded leaves. breathe through that filter salt at root level, while some
pneumatophores
excrete it through special glands.
roots that stick up
from the mud.
Growth is fast as Red mangroves, like most other
much as 2 ft (0.6 m) species, extract oxygen through
in a year. spongy aerial roots via
breathing cells called lenticels.
Pendulous seed
pods drop to the
mud and float
away at high tide
to begin a new
colony far from
its source.
Mangrove ferns
grow toward the land The mudflats are rich in nutrients,
part of the ecosystem. forming a food source for marine creatures.
THE RICH FAUNA OF THE MANGROVES

The microorganisms that grow in the nutrient-rich muds foster the
growth of larger creatures such as shrimps and other crustaceans,
which in turn attract various species of mammals, reptiles, and birds.
Birds, such as
frigate birds and
Aquatic nurseries for oysters, sponges, and Larger species, such as pelicans, and
numerous fish species, including sharks and raccoons, coyotes, endemic species such
stingrays, thrive in the tannin-stained snakes, and wading as the yellow man-
waters. The roots protect baby caimans and birds forage for small grove warbler roost
crocodiles from predators. lizards and crabs. atop mangroves.
Peninsula de Osa r
Washed by warm Pacific waters on three sides,

the isolated Osa Peninsula curls around the
Golfo Dulce. The peninsula was a center for
the pre-Columbian Diquis culture, whose skill
as goldsmiths sent Spanish conquistadors on a
futile search for fabled gold mines. Deluged
Scarlet by year-round rains, much of this rugged area
macaw
remains uninhabited and trackless, and is
covered with virgin rainforest. About half of Osa is
protected within Parque Nacional Corcovado, the largest
of the parks and reserves that make up the Corcovado
Conservation Area. Those with a taste for adventure are
richly rewarded with majestic wilderness and some of Baha Drake
the most spectacular wildlife-viewing in the nation. With a beautiful setting,
Drake Bay is great for scuba
diving and sportfishing
centered on the small village
of Agujitas (see p190).
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Sprawling Corcovado National Park
protects one of the last original tracts of
the Pacific coasts tropical rainforest in
Meso-America. La Leona (left) is one of
its four ranger stations. Crocodiles, tapirs,
jaguars, and scarlet macaws are found
in the park in large numbers (see p191).
A flock of brown pelicans at Parque Nacional Corcovado
LOGGING VISITORS CHECKLIST
The peninsulas large stands Road Map E5. SW Costa Rica.

of precious hardwoods, * 12,000. ~ at Puerto Jimnez;
such as mahogany, have airstrips at Carate, PN Corcovado,
suffered from excessive and Baha Drake. @ to Puerto
logging. Although restric- Jimnez or La Palma, then take
tions have been placed a jeep-taxi to the park or hike
on the activities of lumber (from La Palma to Los Patos). g
companies, the cutting to Baha Drake, then take another
of protected tree species boat to the park or hike (caution
continues unabated. Logging truck is required to wade the Ro Claro).
Dolphins
KEY
Dolphins and humpback
whales are frequently seen Main road
playing in the Golfo Dulce Trail
(Sweet Gulf). Park boundary
Airstrip
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gateway to welcomes visitors for gold-panning trips
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dirt track. crocodiles, and waterfowl. popular with surfers.
Exploring Peninsula de Osa Puerto Jimnez

* 6,200.
The lush rainforests of Corcovado The only settlement of signifi-
lie at the heart of the Osa Peninsula. cance on the peninsula, this
Although tourism to the region is dusty village is popular with
booming, travel into the interior is still backpackers. In the 1980s,
a challenge. Highway 245 follows the Puerto Jimnez briefly
blossomed on income from
eastern shore and a challenging dirt local gold and had a reputa-
road links Rincn to Baha Drake, tion as a Wild West frontier
Ranger station,
but the only guaranteed access to the town, where carrying a gun
Parque Nacional western shores is by boat or by small was considered a good idea
Corcovado plane. Wilderness lodges line the coast. and prostitutes were paid
with gold nuggets. Today, the
town thrives on tourist money.
Various adventure activities
are offered by local operators.
Kayakers flock to the man-
groves extending east along
the shore of the Golfo Dulce
to the estuary of Ro Plata-
nares. Home to crocodiles,
caimans, freshwater turtles,
and river otters, this eco-
system is protected within
the 555-acre (225-ha) Refugio
Nacional de Vida Silvestre
Preciosa Platanares. The
Along the shore of sweeping Baha Drake refuge lies along the shores
of the lovely Playa Platanares,
Baha Drake Among its other attractions which has a small coral reef
Rocky cliffs and forested hills are zipline tours and a treetop good for snorkeling. The
provide a compelling setting observation walkway. You beach is a nesting site for five
for the scalloped Drake Bay. can also whiz between tree- species of marine turtles, best
Sir Francis Drake is said to tops with Corcovado Canopy sighted from May to Decem-
have anchored the Golden Tour, which has 11 ziplines. ber. A small vivero (nursery)
Hind here in March 1579. From Agujitas, a coastal raises hatchlings for release
This is one of the most trail leads south for 8 miles into the jade-green waters.
inaccessible areas in Costa (13 km), via Playas Cocalito, The shore south of Puerto
Rica. In 2003, a dirt road Caletas, and San Josecito, to Jimnez is lined with beaches.
was cut from Rincn, on Parque Nacional Corcovado, Cabo Matapalo, at the tip of
Golfo Dulce, to Baha Drake passing by the Refugio the peninsula, and Playa
(pronounced DRA-cay), Nacional de Vida Silvestre Sombrero offer great surfing.
but the route is often Punta Ro Claro. This 2-sq-mile
impassable in wet weather, (5-sq-km) nature reserve O Refugio Nacional de
even for 4WD vehicles. Most adjoins Corcovado, and is Vida Silvestre Preciosa
Platanares
visitors still arrive by boat home to much the same
2 miles (3 km) E of Puerto Jimnez.
from Sierpe (see p184). The species of wildlife as can be & by donation. 8 0
small village of Agujitas, seen in Corvocado. Guided
toward the bays southern hikes can be booked at Punta
end, survives largely on sub- Marenco Lodge, which is
sistence farming and fishing. nearby. Tapirs and crocodiles
Popular attractions include are frequently sighted while
dolphin- and whale-watching canoeing on Laguna Chocuaco,
trips on the bay. Snorkeling to the east of Agujitas; the
is another fun activity, local community cooperative
especially in the southern offers trips.
bay, where the canyon of
Ro Agujitas can be explored O Corcovado Canopy Tour
by kayak. There are several Los Planos, 8 miles (14 km)
SE of Agujitas. Tel 8810-8908.
budget accommodation
www.corcovadocanopytour.com
options, as well as more
expensive lodges that offer O Refugio Nacional de Vida
scuba diving and sportfishing. Silvestre Punta Ro Claro
One such is Jinetes de Osa Playa Caletas, 4 miles (6 km)
S of Agujitas. n 8877-3535.
(see p216), which features
# 8am5pm daily. & 8 0
snorkeling along with scuba www.puntamarenco.com
Locals on the main street of Puerto
diving and deep-sea angling. Jimnez
A lounging area on the beach at Parque Nacional Corcovado
O Parque Nacional as are tapirs. Both species are from Baha Drake. Los Patos,
Corcovado often seen on the beaches, to the east, can be reached
25 miles (40 km) SW of Puerto especially around dusk. from La Palma, 12 miles
Jimnez. Tel 2735-5580. Corcovado is known for its (19 km) northwest of Puerto
# 8am4pm daily. & 0 large packs of peccaries Jimnez. La Leona, to the
www.sinac.go.cr menacing wild hogs that south, is 1 mile (1.6 km) west
Considered the crown jewel should be avoided. The of the airstrip at Carate, a
among the protected regions endangered titi (squirrel hamlet 25 miles (40 km) west
of the humid tropics, this monkey) is also found here. of Puerto Jimnez; visitors
165-sq-mile (425-sq-km) park There are over 115 species of must then hike or ride a horse
was created in 1975 to pre- amphibians and reptiles. from Carate. Sirena, the main
serve the largest Pacific coast Poison-dart ranger station, is
rainforest in the Americas, as frogs (see 10 miles (16 km)
well as 20 sq miles (52 sq km) p158) are easily northwest of La
of marine habitat. Corcovado seen in their Leona and 16 miles
(meaning hunchback) has gaudy livery, but Small biplane used for (26 km) southeast
eight distinct zones, including the elusive lime- transport within Osa of San Pedrillo.
herbaceous swamps, flooded green red-eyed tree Poorly marked
swamp forest, and montane frog and Fleischmanns trails connect the stations;
forest. The area receives up to transparent frog are harder to it is wise to hire a guide.
158 inches (400 cm) of rainfall spot. The fortunate might The coastal San Pedrillo
per year, with torrential rains witness green, hawksbill, La Leona trail passes the
from April to December. leatherback, or Pacific ridley dramatic 100-ft (30-m) high
Wildlife viewing is splendid turtles crawling ashore to Cascada La Llorona. Be
and among the most diverse nest. However, the park is prepared to ford rivers inhab-
in Costa Rica. The park has understaffed and the wildlife ited by crocodiles on this
over 400 species of birds, is under threat by poachers. two-day hike. The trails
including the endangered Although there are hotels northern section is open only
harpy eagle, and the largest and organized tours close by, from December to April. The
population of scarlet macaws the park is best suited to self- San PedrilloLos Patos trail
in Central America; bird- sufficient hikers who enjoy allows access to Laguna
watchers are guaranteed rugged adventures. There are Corcovado, where tapirs and
sightings. Jaguars are spotted four official entry points and jaguars are often sighted.
more frequently here than at ranger stations. San Pedrillo, There is no scheduled air
any other park in the nation, to the west, is linked by a trail service to the airstrips near
the park, but air-taxis are
offered by charter companies.
GOLD MINING
Interesting attractions
Oreros (gold panners) had sifted for gold in the close to Parque Nacional
rivers of the Osa Peninsula since pre-Columbian Corcovado include the
days. When the United Fruit Company (see p41) 105-acre (43-ha) wetlands
pulled out of the region in 1985, unemployed Humedal Lacustrino Laguna
workers flooded the peninsula, leading to a Pejeperrito, 2 miles (3 km)
latter-day gold rush. This short-lived gold rush east of Carate, and the
caused major damage: trees were felled, river 865-acre (350-ha) Refugio
banks dynamited, and exposed soils sluiced. Nacional de Vida Silvestre
After violent clashes with the authorities, the Pejeperro, 2.5 miles (4 km)
oreros were ousted in 1986. Some still work the farther east. They are little
outer margins of Corcovado, while others earn Nuggets visited, but offer good oppor-
their income leading gold hunts for tourists. of gold tunities for spotting birds, as
well as crocodiles.
Parque Nacional breezes and surf. The 4-mile

Piedras Blancas t (6-km) long strip of sand is
a spit, projecting from the
Road Map E5. 28 miles (46 km) shore. A mangrove swamp
SE of Palmar. Tel 2741-8001 inland of the beach is good
(Esquinas Rainforest Lodge). for spotting crocodiles,
@ from Golfito. # 8am4pm daily. caimans, and waterfowl.
Sportfishing centers offer
Split off from Parque Nacional superb river-mouth and deep-
Corcovado in 1991, this 55-sq- water fishing (see p251),
mile (140-sq-km) park protects while tarpon and snook can
the forested mountains to the be hooked from the shore.
northeast of Golfo Dulce. In Stilt-legged house in Zona
the village of La Gamba, a Americana, Golfito
cooperative runs the Esquinas Pavones i
Rainforest Lodge (see p218), town, which has stilt-legged
which breeds the rodent-like wooden houses. An antique Road Map B5. 7 miles (12 km)
tepezcuintles and offers hikes. locomotive sits in the small S of Zancudo. ~ @ g water-taxi
The emerald forests spill plaza of Pueblo Civl, the from Golfito.
over the beaches Playa town center. The Museo
Cativo and Playa San Josecito, Marino nearby is worth a Known in the surfing world
which has the botanical garden peek for its collection of for its consistent 0.5-mile
Casa de Orqudeas, known for corals and seashells. (1-km) 3-minute break, this
its large collection of orchids On weekends and holidays, small fishing village has
and ornamentals. Lining the Golfito is flooded with Ticos blossomed in recent years
shores are wilderness lodges. drawn to the Depsito Libre due to the influx of young
Boat trips, including water-taxi (Free Trade Zone) shopping surfers. The waves peak
rides, from Puerto Jimnez compound created in 1990 to between April and October.
and Golfito to the two beaches revive the towns fortunes. Coconut palms lean over the
make for pleasant excursions. The forested hills east and beautiful, rocky coastline.
north of town are protected
r Casa de Orqudeas within Refugio Nacional de Environs
Playa San Josecito, 6 miles (10 km) Vida Silvestre Golfito. Marine turtles nest along the
N of Puerto Jimnez. Tel 8829-
shore. At Punta Banco, 6 miles
1247. # 8am5pm SatThu by E Museo Marino
appointment. & 8
(10 km) south of Pavones, the
Hotel Centro Turstico Samoa, local community participates
just N of Pueblo Civl. Tel 2775- in the Tiskita Foundation Sea
0233. # 7am11am daily.
Turtle Restoration Project,
O Refugio Nacional de Vida which has a nursery to raise
Silvestre Golfito baby turtles for release. Nearby,
E of Golfito. # 8am4pm daily. Tiskita Lodge (see p218) offers
8 with local operators.
fabulous vistas from its
hillside perch. This lodge is
part of a fruit farm that lures a
Sign of the colorful botanical Zancudo u wealth of bird- and animal
garden, Casa de Orqudeas life. Guided hikes are offered
Road Map F5. 6 miles (10 km) S of into a private reserve, where
Golfito (41 miles/66 km by road). waterfalls tumble through
Golfito y @ g water-taxi from Golfito. majestic rainforest.
Reserva Indgena Guaym,
Road Map F5. 48 miles (77 km) This hamlet on the east shore 9 miles (14 km) south of
SE of Palmar. * 10,900. ~ @ of Golfo Dulce is known for Punta Banco, is the remote
its stupendously beautiful mountain home of the Guaym.
A sportfishing base, port, and gray sand beach, caressed by Visits are discouraged.
administrative center for the
southern region, dilapidated
Golfito (Small Gulf) unfurls
along 4 miles (6 km) of
shoreline. Established by the
United Fruit Company in
1938, the towns reign as the
nations main banana shipping
port ended when the company
pulled out of the region in
1985. The legacy of Big
Fruit can be seen in the
intriguing architecture of Zona
Americana, the north end of A surfer wading ashore at Pavones
Parque Nacional Isla del Coco o VISITORS CHECKLIST
Named a National Park in 1978, the worlds largest 310 miles (500 km) SW of
uninhabited island is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. the mainland. g with dive
operators (a 36-hr journey).
Of volcanic origin, the 9-sq-mile (23-sq-km) island is
n 2256-7476 (Fundacin Ami-
a part of the Galapagos chain. Torrential rainfall feeds gos de La Isla del Coco). #
spectacular waterfalls that cascade to the sea, while daily. Permit required to step
dense premontane moist forest carpets the land. The ashore, which the dive operator
fragile ecosystem protects endemic fauna such as the can arrange. & Dive Opera-
Pacific dwarf gecko and Cocos anole, as well as 70 tors Undersea Hunter: 2228-
endemic plant species. A highlight is the huge colonies 6613; Okeanos Aggressor: see
of seabirds, including magnificent frigate birds, noddies, p253. www.cocosisland.org
and white terns. With waters of astounding clarity, the
island is a world-renowned dive site (see p252).
Baha Chatham
The main anchorage has etchings
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Congregating in their
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experience for scuba
Viewpoint divers. Also drawn by
Peak the huge fish popula-
tion around the island
Visitor information
are white-tipped sharks.
TRAVELERS
NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY 196219

WHERE TO EAT 220237
SHOPPING IN COSTA RICA 238243
ENTERTAINMENT IN COSTA RICA 244247
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND SPECIALTY
VACATIONS 248253
196 T R AV E L E R S N E E D S
WHERE TO STAY
C osta Rica has an excellent
selection of accommo-
dations covering the entire
country, with a wide choice for
every budget. Even the remotest
from self-catering apartotels
(apart-hotels) to world-class lux-
ury resorts and boutique hotels,
which reflect the individuality of
their owners. Recent years have
corners have inexpensive cabi- seen an explosion in the number
nas (cabins). The countrys fort and quality of backpackers
is the wilderness nature lodge, Sign outside Orosi hotels. Costa Rican hotels rarely
many in extraordinary settings, Lodge (see p205) use the star-grading system.
where guests can view wildlife Instead, the country has adopted
without leaving their hammocks. Also the Certificate for Sustainable Tourism
on offer are special-interest lodgings (CST) system, which grades hotels by
catering to a particular activity, such as their cultural and ecological sensitivity,
surfing or sportfishing. Hotels range such as level of energy efficiency.
by a charming originality and

hospitality. Ranging from
upscale, family-run bed-and-
breakfasts to architectural
stunners in the midst of
coffee plantations to beach
hotels inspired by a Balinese
aesthetic, these exquisite
lodgings can be found
throughout the country.
Most of the boutique hotels
are the creation of foreign
entrepreneurs with artistic
vision, and with few excep-
tions benefit from the owners
hands-on management. They
A warmly welcoming room at the upscale Four Seasons (see p208) are usually lower priced than
many chain hotels of similar
CHAIN HOTELS or Europe. The more standard and represent excel-
expensive options usually lent value. Many boutique
Costa Ricas many chain hotels offer a gourmet restaurant, hotels offer gourmet dining,
span a range of prices. The gym, and casino or nightclub, a spa, and a range of
Enjoy Group offers several and sometimes tour agency activities and excursions.
all-inclusive options, in which and boutique shops.
all meals, entertainment, and WILDERNESS LODGES
facilities are provided for a set BOUTIQUE HOTELS
room rate at its Fiesta beach Nature lovers can choose
resorts. International chains A pleasant and more unsual between more than 100
such as Best Western, Choice accommodation option is the wilderness lodges in the
Hotels, and Quality Inn are range of intimate boutique country. The majority are
well-represented in the low- hotels, which are characterized located close to, or within,
and mid-range brackets. national parks and wildlife
Occidental and Marriott offer reserves, or otherwise offer
reliable service and quality. immediate access to regions
Four Seasons represents the of natural beauty. Guided
deluxe end. hikes and other wilderness-
Room cleaning and linen related activities are generally
changing on a daily basis, available at these lodges.
and private bathrooms with Accommodations range
showers are standard in most from basic to modestly
establishments, and all chain upscale, although all have
hotels have a restaurant and a degree of rusticity in
bar. However, visitors should common. The focus is on
be aware that standards the nature experience, rather
among budget-oriented chain than the amenities offered.
hotels vary considerably and Several lodges have attained
may not conform to their Capitn Suizo, one of Costa Ricas international fame; advance
equivalents in North America many boutique hotels (see p212) bookings are recommended
Hotel balcony in San Jos, with a lovely view of surrounding hills
W H E R E T O S TAY 197
are usually akin to bed- restaurants or other facilities.

and-breakfasts. San Jos has a large number
It is acceptable to ask to of apartotels; they are also
inspect rooms before taking found in other towns and
them. Services and furnish- the major beach resorts.
ings are minimal, and bath- Motels should not be
room accouterments are confused with their North
usually limited to soap and American or European equiv-
towels; bring your own sink alents. Found across the
plug and wash cloth. Many nation, they are no-frills
cheaper cabinas require that places of convenience used
visitors share bathrooms. Be mainly by lovers and rented
prepared for cold water only; by the hour. Overnight stays
where hot water is available, are usually permitted, even
it is typically heated by for singles. Occasionally they
inefficient electric elements can prove useful at night in
that can give you a shock if locations where few other
Bathroom in Shawandha Lodge at touched. You may be asked options exist.
Puerto Viejo (see p215) to place toilet paper in a
basket to avoid blocking
for these. Many of the more the toilet drain. Theft is a
simple lodges, including common problem in cabinas.
those located within indige- Take a padlock, and check
nous reserves, are run by that doors and windows are
community cooperatives. secure and that there are
These offer opportunities to no holes or cracks that can
appreciate local culture and be used by peeping toms.
experience nature from the Several budget hotels
local perspective. Cooprena operate as members of
is a promotion and booking International Youth Hostel
agent representing many Federation (IYHF). Most are
such ecolodges. run to a very high standard
and have clean, single-sex
BUDGET HOTELS dormitories. Some also have
co-ed dorms. Hostelling
The country has thousands International Costa Rica
of simple budget accommo- is the representative of the
dations called cabinas, which IYHF in Costa Rica and can Corcovado Adventures Tent Camp,
cater to the mass of Tico make reservations for hostels featuring furnished tents (see p216)
(Costa Rican) travelers and all over the country.
backpackers. Usually the term CAMPING
refers to a row of hotel rooms, APARTOTELS AND
but it is used loosely and can MOTELS Visitors can camp in many
cover a variety of accommo- of the national parks and
dation types. Cabina is at Ticos are fond of apartotels, wildlife refuges, including at
times used interchangeably which are basic self-catering ranger stations, where water,
with albergue, hospedaje, apartments with kitchens or toilets, and occasionally
or posada, three terms for kitchenettes and a small living showers are usually available.
lodging. Albergue normally and dining room; they are Some ranger stations prepare
refers to simple rural lodges, usually offered on long-term meals by arrangement; if not,
and hospedaje and posada rentals. Rarely do they have carry your own provisions.
A mosquito net and water-
proof tent are also essential
items to carry.
Outside the reserves,
camping facilities are few
except at major beach resorts.
On weekends and public
holidays, Tico families flock to
beaches, where they camp on
the sands. Avoid this illegal
practice and restrict your
camping to designated sites.
Hammocks can be bought or
rented and hung almost any-
where. Campers always need
to beware of theft and should
Casa de Las Tas (see p202), Escaz never leave items unguarded.
hotels, which range from

rustic lodges to luxurious
yoga retreats.
Many tour operators offer
specialist tours for those
interested in a particular
activity (see p248). By far the
largest focus is on nature
tourism: packages usually
include stays at wilderness
lodges and pre-arranged
hikes, birding, and similar
nature excursions.
BOOKING
It is best to book your

accommodation well ahead
of your visit, particularly
if you are traveling during
the dry season (December
April). This is especially true
around Christmas, New Year,
Pool at Hotel Villa Caletas (see p207), of the Small Distinctive Hotels and Easter, and during special
local events, such as Carnaval
HOTEL GROUPS SPECIALIZED LODGING in Puerto Limn. Reservations
are also recommended for
Several local hotel groups Many places cater for a travelers following a pre-
represent member hotels that specific activity. Several planned route. Advance
market themselves jointly nature lodges, for instance, bookings for cabinas are
based on their similarities. are dedicated exclusively to not as critical except at the
Eight of the finest boutique sportfishing, and offer all- peak times.
hotels of the country form the inclusive packages. Usually Many hotels in Costa Rica
Small Distinctive Hotels of these are in remote locations have a reputation for not
Costa Rica. This group offers accessible solely by boat. honoring reservations, and
a distinctive ambience in their Other resorts specialize in for not issuing refunds. It is,
excellent accommodations, scuba diving, and offer diving therefore, advisable to make
which are located in diverse lessons for beginners. Visitors reservations through a travel
regions ranging from the planning more advanced agency or tour operator. If
capital city to remote mount- diving will need to provide making a booking yourself,
ains and beaches. Small proof of their qualifications. never send your request by
Unique Hotels is another Budget-oriented surf camps mail, as the postal service is
group of six quality hotels are often found at Costa unreliable. Instead, use the
situated in strategic spots Ricas many beaches. Some phone or fax, or book online
around the country; all offer are quite sophisticated and using the hotel websites. If a
topnotch service. Several offer various options, from deposit is required you can
Swiss-and German-owned outdoor dormitories with pay by credit card. In all
hotels are marketed under the hammocks to private air- cases, make sure that you
Charming & Nature Hotels of conditioned rooms. There are obtain a written confirmation
Costa Rica umbrella. also plenty of health-oriented of your reservation.
Los Sueos Marriott Ocean & Golf Resort (see p208), set amid sprawling grounds in Playa Herradura
W H E R E T O S T AY 199
A 16.39 percent tax is added staff in Costa Rica are often

to lodgings in tourist hotels. quite low and that tips in
This is not always included dollars often amount to a
in the advertised rate. Trav- significant part of such
elers checks and credit cards workers livelihoods.
are accepted in most hotels,
with the exception of many DISABLED TRAVELERS
budget hotels, which will
only accept cash. Most places Only the more recently
accept payment in US dollars. built hotels have access and
purpose-built facilities for
TIPPING disabled travelers, including
bathrooms with wheelchair
It is customary to leave a access. Many wilderness
propina (tip) for the hotel lodges have level trails
staff at the end of your stay. designed for wheelchairs.
The amount will depend Hotel staff in all parts of
on the type and quality of Costa Rica will do everything
El Sano Banano Beach Hotel, part of service, as well as the length they can to assist disabled
Ylang Ylang Beach Resort (see p207) of your stay. Use your dis- travelers. Vaya con Silla
cretion. In general, it is de Ruedas (Go With
PRICES AND PAYMENTS normal to tip bellboys $1 and Wheelchairs) provides
chambermaids $1 or more. services for disabled travelers,
Regardless of hotel type, Visitors should be aware that including recommendations
prices will be higher in the hotel wages among service for appropriate lodgings.
dry season than in the wet
season (MayNovember). The
more expensive hotels usually
charge an additional premium
for the peak season, which is
the ChristmasNew Year
holidays, as well as for Easter.
Rates can also vary according
to the type of room. Hotels
that depend on business
travelers often have reduced
rates for weekends and long
stays. Tour operators may
also be able to offer special
deals that you may find
difficult to obtain yourself.
Many hotels offer discount
schemes, such as special
rates for surfers. An executive suite at Hotel Grano de Oro (see p203) in San Jos
DIRECTORY
CHAIN HOTELS Marriott YOUTH Small Distinctive
Tel 888-236-2427. HOSTELS Hotels of Costa Rica
Best Western www.marriott.com Tel 2258-0150.
Tel 0800-011-0063. Hostelling www.distinctivehotels.
Occidental
www.bestwestern.com International com
Tel 2248-2323.
Costa Rica Small Unique
Choice Hotels www.occidental-
Ave 8 and Calle 41, Hotels
Tel 0800-011-0517. hoteles.com
1002 San Jos. www.costa-rica-unique-
www.choicehotels.com Quality Inn
Tel 2234-5486. hotels.com
Enjoy Group Tel 0800-011-0517.
www.hihostels.com
www.qualityinn.com DISABLED
Tel 2296-6263.
TRAVELERS
www.enjoygroup.net HOTEL
WILDERNESS
LODGES GROUPS Vaya con Silla
Four Seasons
de Ruedas
Tel 2696-0000. Cooprena Charming & Nature Tel 2454-2810.
www.fourseasons.com/ Tel 2290-8646. Hotels of Costa Rica www.gowith
costarica www.turismoruralcr.com www.charminghotels.net wheelchairs.com
Choosing a Hotel PRICE CATEGORIES

For a standard double room per night
in the tourist season, including tax and
Most of the hotels and resorts in this guide have been service:
selected across a wide price range for facilities, good \ Under $25
value, and location. The prices listed are those charged \\ $2540
\\\ $4080
by the hotel, although discounts may be available \\\\ $80140
through agencies. The hotels are listed by area. For \\\\\ Over $140
map references for San Jos, see pages 789.
SAN JOS
CITY CENTER Casa Ridgway h07 \
Calle 15 and Aves 6 bis/8 Tel 2233-6168 Fax 2222-1400 Rooms 13 Map 2 E4
Located close to the Museo Nacional in downtown San Jos, Casa Ridgway is a peaceful hostel operated by a
Quaker organization. With spacious dorms and private rooms, as well as a communal kitchen, this hostel is good
value for money. Also on offer is a library and a TV lounge. www.amigosparalapaz.org
CITY CENTER Costa Rica Backpackers h0S7 \
Calles 21/23 and Ave 6 Tel 2221-6191 Rooms 16 Map 2 F4

On the eastern edge of downtown, this secure backpackers hostel is run to high standards by French owners.
It has both private rooms and dorms, plus a self-service kitchen, TV lounge, Internet rooms, and tour planning
facilities. Its swimming pool is set in a lush garden. www.costaricabackpackers.com
CITY CENTER Hostel La Casa del Parque h \\
Calles 19 and Ave 3 Tel 2233-3437 Fax 2258-7113 Rooms 4 Map 2 E2

This welcoming Costa Rican-run hostel, set in an art deco house in the northeastern corner of Parque Nacional, is
convenient, has great views, and offers complimentary coffee, kitchen use, and storage. The owners are happy to
arrange tours and car rentals on request. www.hostelcasadelparque.com
CITY CENTER Kaps Place h7 \\
Calle 19 and Aves 11/13 Tel 2221-1169 Fax 2256-4850 Rooms 18 Map 2 E2
In a quiet locality close to Barrio Amn, this rambling converted home has a cozy family atmosphere and is enlivened
by colorful decor. Each room is distinct, and some have TVs. Guests can use the kitchen, and a terrace garden has
hammocks to laze in. Free Internet access is available. www.kapsplace.com
CITY CENTER Britannia Hotel h0z \\\
Calle 3 and Ave 11 Tel 2223-6667 Fax 2223-6411 Rooms 23 Map 1 C2

This restored mansion in Barrio Amn dates from 1910 and was built by a Spanish coffee baron. Stained-glass
windows, mosaic tile floors, and period furnishings help create a warm atmosphere. A modern annex is similarly
decorated and has lush courtyards. www.hotelbritanniacostarica.com
CITY CENTER Gran Hotel h07 \\\

Built in 1899, the Gran Hotel is considered a historic monument, and boasts a fabulous location for sightseeing.
The lobby casino offers non-stop excitement. Open round the clock, the patio caf is a great place to listen to
marimba music and watch the world go by. www.granhotelcostarica.com
CITY CENTER Hotel Don Carlos h0S7 \\\
Calle 9 bis and Ave 9 Tel 2221-6707 Fax 2258-1152 Rooms 36 Map 2 D2
Located in the heart of Barrio Amn and once the residence of two former presidents, Don Carlos is a part of San
Joss heritage. Its maze of quiet corridors, decorated with artwork and pre-Columbian motifs, lead into garden
settings. There is a splendid souvenir store. www.doncarloshotel.com
CITY CENTER Hotel Kekoldi \\\
Calles 5/7 and Ave 9 Tel 2248-0804 Fax 2248-0767 Rooms 10 Map 2 D2
Decorated in bright pastels and saturated with sunlight, this Art Deco house enjoys a fine location in the heart of
historic Barrio Amn. Its elegant rooms are well appointed, and it has a small private Japanese garden. Tours,
transfers, and car rentals can be arranged. www.kekoldi.com
CITY CENTER Hotel Presidente h0z7 \\\
Calles 7/9 and Ave Central Tel 2222-3022 Fax 2221-1205 Rooms 100 Map 2 D4
Steps away from Plaza de la Cultura, this hotel has a casino, rooftop Jacuzzi and sauna, and an excellent street-
front caf and restaurant. The best suite in the house offers an eight-person Jacuzzi, an open-air shower, and
spectacular views from oversized windows. www.hotel-presidente.com
Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CITY CENTER Hotel Santo Toms h0zS \\\
Ave 7, Calles 3/5 Tel 2255-0448 Fax 2222-3950 Rooms 19 Map 1 A2

Located on the cusp between downtown and Barrio Amn, this former colonial mansion offers lodgings with
tasteful furnishings and a peaceful ambience. Rooms vary widely in size. The adjoining restaurant is one of the
citys best and opens onto a garden with a whirlpool spa. www.hotelsantotomas.com
CITY CENTER Clarion Hotel Amn Plaza h0z7 \\\\
Calle 3 bis and Ave 11 Tel 2523-4600 Fax 2523-4614 Rooms 90 Map 2 C2
This modern hotel in Barrio Amn offers good service and excellent facilities. The elegant lobby is well appointed
with objects of art. The hotel also has a disco, a conference center, a spa, and an upscale open-air roadside
restaurant. All rooms have a wireless Internet connection. www.hotelamonplaza.com
CITY CENTER DRaya Vida Villa h \\\\
Calle 15 bis and Ave 11 Tel 2223-4168 Fax 2223-4157 Rooms 4 Map 2 E2
This gracious Southern plantation-style mansion is now a bed-and-breakfast with stylish furnishings and splendid
artwork. A quiet garden room with a fountain and a sunny, glass-enclosed den are ideal for relaxation. The hotel
offers free transfers from the airport. www.rayavida.com
CITY CENTER Hotel Balmoral h0z7 \\\\
Calles 7/9 and Ave Central Tel 2222-5022 Fax 2221-1919 Rooms 112 Map 2 D3
The modern Balmoral hotel is suitable for business travelers and tourists. The decor is uninspired, but it is located
close to major sights and offers a wide range of services, including a business center and conference rooms. There
is a casino for those who want to try their luck. www.balmoral.co.cr
CITY CENTER Hotel Fleur de Lys 0z \\\\
Calle 13 and Ave 2 Tel 2223-1206 Fax 2221-6310 Rooms 31 Map 2 E2

A quaint Swiss-run boutique hotel, this converted mansion is mere steps from the main sights in downtown
San Jos. Each bedroom is named for a flower and individually styled, with either wicker or wrought-iron beds.
Musicians perform live in the wood-paneled Italian restaurant. www.hotelfleurdelys.com
CITY CENTER Hotel Villa Tournon h0Sz7 \\\\
Barrio Tournon, E of La Republica Tel 2233-6622 Fax 2222-5211 Rooms 80 Map 2 D1

Located north of Barrio Amn, this modern hotel features modern artwork, polished hardwood floors, and rich
fabrics in the guest rooms, all of which also have cable Internet connections. The piano bar and restaurant are
excellent. A business center and conference rooms are also available. www.costarica-hotelvillatournon.com
CITY CENTER Hotel Aurola Holiday Inn h0Sz7 \\\\\
Calle 5 and Ave 5 Tel 2523-1000 Fax 2255-1171 Rooms 200 Map 2 D3
The Aurola Holiday Inn is a 17-story, modern building on Parque Morazn. Some of its rooms have breathtaking
views of volcanoes and the city. The hotel has a spacious, elegant lobby, as well as a casino, gym, and sauna. Also
on offer are facilities for business travelers. www.aurola-holidayinn.com
CITY CENTER Radisson Europa Hotel and Conference Center h0Sz7 \\\\\
This is a contemporary business hotel on the northern edge of downtown with international levels of service.
The facilities on offer include a casino, gym, wireless high-speed Internet, six conference rooms, and shops.
www.radisson.com/sanjosecr
EAST OF CITY CENTER Hostel Toruma h0 \
Calles 29/31 and Ave Central Tel 2234-8186 Fax 2224-4085 Rooms 18
The residence of a former president of Costa Rica, this youth hostel is spotlessly clean and run to high standards.
Both dormitories and private rooms are available. Breakfast is included, and there is a guest kitchen. There is also
an Internet caf and a travel desk to assist visitors. www.hosteltoruma.com
EAST OF CITY CENTER Hotel 1492 Jade y Oro h7 \\\
Calles 31/33 and Ave 1, No. 2985 Tel 2225-3752 Fax 2280-6206 Rooms 10
Named after the year that Columbus landed in the New World, this is a charming, atmospheric bed-and-breakfast
hotel in a Colonial-style house. Setting Hotel 1492 apart are its personalized service, a cozy lounge with a fireplace,
and wine and cheese served on a garden patio. www.hotel1492.com
EAST OF CITY CENTER Hotel Milvia h0 \\\
NE of Centro Comercial M&N, San Pedro Tel 2225-4543 Fax 2225-7801 Rooms 9
Hotel Milvia is a small, intimate hotel housed in a 1930s wooden home in a quiet residential area. Sitting rooms
and a tropical garden are great for relaxation. Hardwood floors, spacious rooms, and bathrooms featuring hand-
painted decorative tilework add to its elegance. www.hotelmilvia.com
EAST OF CITY CENTER Boutique Hotel Jade h0S7 \\\\
N of Autos Subaru dealership, Barrio Dent Tel 2224-2455 Fax 2224-2166 Rooms 29
Close to the Universidad de Costa Rica, this two-story hotel has public areas boasting lively contemporary decor.
It features a cigar bar and a superb restaurant (see p225). Each room has Internet access and a minibar. The hotel
is a member of Small Unique Hotels of Costa Rica (see p198). www.hotelboutiquejade.com
EAST OF CITY CENTER Htel Le Bergerac h07 \\\\
Calle 35, S of Ave Central Tel 2234-7850 Fax 2225-9103 Rooms 19

Set in a former colonial home in San Pedro, this hotel exudes a classical European aesthetic and has a fine French
restaurant (see p225). Many of the spacious, wood-floored rooms have their own private garden patios. The hotel
has a reputation for excellent service. www.bergerachotel.com
ESCAZ Apartotel Mara Alexandra h0Sz7 \\\
NW of El Cruce, San Rafael de Escaz Tel 2228-1507 Fax 2289-5192 Rooms 14

This offers modern apartments and twin-level units with elegant furnishings, close to the center of Escaz. The
amenities include a swimming pool, sauna, fitness center, and mini-golf, as well as a travel agency, and Harley-
Davidson authorized rentals for biking aficionados. www.mariaalexandra.com
ESCAZ Casa de Las Tas h \\\
San Rafael de Escaz Tel 2289-5517 Fax 2289-7353 Rooms 5

This bed-and-breakfast is housed in a sprawling Victorian-style cedar house, set amidst lush gardens within
walking distance of Escaz. The atmosphere is cozy and tranquil. The hosts are a delight and provide gourmet
breakfasts. www.hotels.co.cr/casatias.html
ESCAZ Costa Verde Inn h0S7 \\\
Barrio Rosa Linda, San Miguel de Escaz Tel 2228-4080 Fax 2289-8591 Rooms 18
Polished hardwoods are a feature of this delightful bed-and-breakfast hotel, which has a cozy lounge warmed by
a log fire. Each room is individually decorated. Guests can take relaxing swims in the pool, and the lush garden is
perfect for lazing in a hammock. www.costaverdeinn.com
ESCAZ Out of Bounds Hotel & Tourist Center h0z7 \\\
Carretera John F. Kennedy, San Rafael de Escaz Tel 2288-6762 Fax 2288-5747 Rooms 5
Opened in 2007, this mid-range hotel on the road to Santa Ana offers spacious, contemporary-styled guest rooms
with pine floors, split over two levels. Balconies offer magnificent views. The Italian-Canadian owners also provide
a complete adventure-travel service. www.bedandbreakfastcr.com
ESCAZ Posada El Quijote h \\\
Off Calle del Llano, San Miguel de Escaz Tel 2289-8401 Fax 2289-8729 Rooms 10
Exquisite gardens, complete with a brook running through them, and stupendous views through the floor-to-ceiling
windows are the highlights of this contemporary hilltop hotel. Each of its eight rooms and two apartments has hand-
crafted wood furniture and private baths. No children allowed. www.quijote.co.cr
ESCAZ Villa Escaz h \\\
W of Banco Nacional, San Miguel de Escaz Tel 2289-7971 Fax 2289-7971 Rooms 6
This is a Swiss-style chalet with a veranda on three sides for great views. Surrounded by verdant gardens, it has a
charming rustic atmosphere; log fires add to the cozy ambience inside. An upstairs veranda has rockers, and the
studio apartment has a kitchen and TV. www.hotels.co.cr/vescazu.html
ESCAZ The Alta Hotel h0Sz7 \\\\\
Alto de las Palomas, 2 miles (3 km) W of Escaz Tel 2282-4160 Fax 2282-4162 Rooms 23
Set on a hillside with great views, this elegant hotel blends Colonial and contemporary styles. Graciously appointed
rooms have deep Roman-style tubs. Its gourmet restaurant, La Luz (see p226), is considered one of the regions finest.
www.thealtahotel.com
ESCAZ Intercontinental Real Hotel & Club Tower h0Sz7 \\\\\
Autopista Prospero Fernndez and Blvd Camino Real Tel 2208-2100 Fax 2208-2101 Rooms 372
This opulent hotel, 1 mile (1.6 km) west of San Rafael de Escaz, offers deluxe amenities and is popular with business
travelers. The spa includes a beauty salon, fitness center, and swimming pool. A floodlit tennis court, shops, tour
agency, and a business center are among its other amenities. www.ichotelsgroup.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Gaudys Backpackers h \
Calles 36/38 and Ave 5 Tel 2248-0086 Fax 2258-2937 Rooms 13

On a quiet residential street close to Paseo Coln, this clean backpackers hostel is in a converted middle-class home.
It has mixed dorms and private rooms with bathrooms. Also on offer are free tea and coffee, a lounge with cable TV,
and a free Internet connection. There is no curfew. www.backpacker.co.cr
WEST OF CITY CENTER Mi Casa Hostel 7 \
Calle 48, Sabana Norte Tel 2231-4700 Fax 2232-3928 Rooms 5

Housed in a beautiful modernist home in a quiet, upscale residential district, this backpackers hostel boasts a well-lit
co-ed dorm and a womens dorm, as well as private rooms. Guests also enjoy access to a TV lounge, pool table,
Internet caf, kitchen, and a lovely garden. www.micasahostel.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Apartotel La Sabana hSz7 \\\
Calle 44, N of Avenida las Amricas Tel 2220-2422 Fax 2231-7386 Rooms 25
Located next to Parque Sabana, this modern apartotel offers rooms, studios, and apartments. As part of its
Business Express service, it provides an office within the room, complete with ergonomic chair. Other amenities
include babysitting services upon request and a sauna. www.apartotel-lasabana.com
Key to Price Guide see p200 Key to Symbols see back cover flap
WEST OF CITY CENTER Hotel Cacts h0S7 \\\
Calles 28/30 and Ave 3 bis, No. 2845 Tel 2221-2928 Fax 2221-8616 Rooms 33
In a hilly residential area, this rambling hotel has ultra-clean rooms with simple decor; those in a modern annex are
gloomy. Some rooms have shared bathrooms, while the deluxe rooms have TVs. Breakfast is served on a rooftop
terrace. The hotel also has a travel service. www.hotelcacts.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Hotel Rosa del Paseo h0z7 \\\
Calles 28/30 and Paseo Coln Tel 2257-3225 Fax 2223-2776 Rooms 18
Facing onto Paseo Coln, this converted century-old Caribbean-Victorian stucco home has many historic features,
such as Italian mosaic floors and old English furniture. Rooms are situated around two garden patios, and breakfast
is served outside. There is also a crafts store. www.rosadelpaseo.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Best Western Iraz Hotel & Casino h0Sz7 \\\\
Barrio La Uruca Tel 2290-9300 Fax 2520-2483 Rooms 214

Best Western Iraz is a comfortable modern hotel on the northwestern fringe of the city. Its amenities include tennis
courts, a casino and bar, a travel agency, and a shopping mall. Shuttles connect the hotel to downtown and to the
international airport. www.bestwesterncostarica.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Hotel Occidental Torremolinos h0Sz7 \\\\
Ave 5 and Calle 6 Tel 2222-5266 Fax 2255-3167 Rooms 92

Close to Parque Sabana, this upscale two-story hotel is centered on a lush garden with swimming pool. The guest
quarters have all modern conveniences and elegant furnishings. A courtesy bus shuttles guests to and from down-
town San Jos. www.occidental-hoteles.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Hotel Parque del Lago 0z \\\\

This is a well-kept modern establishment close to Parque Sabana. Popular with business travelers, it has an elegant
bar-restaurant, and its public areas are decorated with tropical hardwoods, colonial tile work, and details from
traditional Costa Rican architecture. www.parquedellago.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Quality Hotel Centro Coln h0z7 \\\\
Calle 38 and Ave 3 Tel 2257-2580 Fax 2257-2582 Rooms 103

Located near Parque Sabana, this twin-tower high-rise hotel offers contemporary elegance. Amenities include
a casino, nightclub, and coffee shop, as well as a tour agency, business center, and souvenir shop.
www.hotelcentrocolon.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Crowne Plaza Corobic h0Sz7 \\\\\
Autopista General Caas, Sabana Norte Tel 2543-6000 Fax 2231-5834 Rooms 213
A landmark hotel with dramatic architecture and soaring atrium, this is popular with business travelers. The hotel
has spacious rooms and abundant facilities including a casino, two restaurants and a bar, a travel agency, and a
free shuttle service. www.crowneplaza.com
WEST OF CITY CENTER Hotel Grano de Oro h07 \\\\\
Calle 30 and Aves 2/4 Tel 2255-3322 Fax 2221-2782 Rooms 40

Combining exquisite decor and exemplary service with a peaceful location, this colonial-era mansion enjoys a
loyal clientele. It has rooftop Jacuzzis and a splendid gourmet restaurant (see p226). Well managed by Canadian
owners, it is a member of Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica (see p198). www.hotelgranodeoro.com
ALAJUELA Hotel II Millenium B&B h7 \\\
Ro Segundo de Alajuela, 1 mile (1.6 km) SE of Alajuela Tel 2430-5050 Fax 2441-2365 Rooms 12
A favorite of backpackers, this simple but well-run, pleasant hostel has private rooms with baths as well as dorms.
The owners offer a free 24-hour airport pickup service. The hostel also arranges day trips to nearby places of interest.
Internet facilities are available. www.bbmilleniumcr.com
ALAJUELA Orquideas Inn h0Sz7 \\\\
Cruce de Grecia y Pos, 2 miles (3 km) W of Alajuela Tel 2433-7128 Fax 2433-9740 Rooms 26
At the base of Volcn Pos, this atmospheric hacienda-style building sits in sprawling lush grounds. The comfortable
rooms have brightly colored decor. Fountains feed the pool, which has a wooden sundeck. The bar draws its
own clientele. www.orquideasinn.com
ALAJUELA Pura Vida Hotel h07 \\\\
Cruce de Tuetal Norte y Sur, 0.5 mile (1 km) N of Alajuela Tel 2430-2929 Fax 2430-2630 Rooms 7
Originally a coffee finca (farm) set amid verdant hillside gardens, this family-run bed-and-breakfast has independent
casitas (cottages) in distinct styles. The open-air restaurant serves gourmet meals, and the lobby has free Internet and
Wi-Fi. The owners dogs have the run of the place. www.puravidahotel.com
ALAJUELA Xandari h0S7 \\\\\
Tacacori, 3 miles (5 km) N of Alajuela Tel 2443-2020 Fax 2442-4847 Rooms 21

A superb boutique hotel with visionary contemporary design set in its own coffee finca (farm) in the hills above
Alajuela. Spacious guest villas have rippling ceilings, artwork, and fabulous views. Apart from a restaurant (see
p227), the hotel boasts a holistic spa. Trails lead through bamboo groves to a waterfall. www.xandari.com
ATENAS El Cafetal Inn h0S \\\\
Santa Eulalia, 3 miles (5 km) N of Atenas Tel 2446-5785 Fax 2446-4850 Rooms 16
This friendly country inn is located on a coffee finca with nature trails. The spectacular two-story house with
rounded glass corner alcoves overlooks the Ro Colorado valley and coffee and sugarcane fields. The live-in owners
are charming conversationalists. Choose from rooms, cottages, or a two-story bungalow. www.cafetal.com
BAJOS DEL TORO Bosque de Paz Lodge h0 \\\\\
9 miles (14 km) E of Zarcero Tel 2234-6676 Fax 2225-0203 Rooms 12

A two-story riverstone-and-timber building on the edge of the rainforest, this lodge has terra-cotta floors and
wrought-iron beds. There is also a library with natural history books and research documents on the reserve. Meals
are included in the price. Reservations are required. www.bosquedepaz.com
BAJOS DEL TORO El Silencio Lodge & Spa h0 \\\\\
10 miles (16 km) E of Zarcero Tel 2761-0301 Fax 2761-0302 Rooms 16

The most luxurious nature lodge in Costa Rica, this gorgeous hotel opened in 2008. The lavishly appointed bunga-
lows are eco-sensitive in every regard and offer fabulous views over lush rainforest. A holistic spa offers yoga, and
the lounge has a cozy fireplace. www.elsilenciolodge.com
EL ROSARIO DE NARANJO Vista del Valle h0Sz7 \\\\\
Calle Indio, El Rosario de Naranjo Tel 2450-0800 Fax 2451-1165 Rooms 22

Sitting right on the edge of the Rio Grande Canyon, this American-run boutique hotel has a beautiful main house
and Japanese-style cottages, with individual porches; condo-villas have also been added. The rooms are well
equipped and the hotel has its own reserve with a waterfall and plenty of wildlife. www.vistadelvalle.com
HEREDIA Casa Holanda 0z \\\
San Pablo de Heredia, 2 miles (3 km) E of Heredia Tel 2238-3241 Rooms 4

This bed-and-breakfast in a quiet residential area is run by classical musician James Holland, who offers impromptu
concerts and private tours, in addition to gourmet meals served alfresco in a patio garden. The guest rooms are
uniquely and tastefully furnished. www.casaholanda.com
HEREDIA Hotel Bougainvillea h0S7 \\\\
Santo Domingo de Heredia, 2 miles (3 km) SE of Heredia Tel 2244-1414 Fax 2244-1313 Rooms 81
This reasonably priced hotel is managed to high standards. Original pieces of specially commissioned modern art
are scattered through the hotel. Rooms have views either of the mountains or of the San Jos skyline. The hotel
offers tennis, swimming, and a jogging track, as well as a well-known restaurant (see p227). www.hb.co.cr
HEREDIA Finca Rosa Blanca Coffee Plantation & Inn h0S \\\\\
Santa Barbara de Heredia, 4 miles (6 km) NW of Heredia Tel 2269-9392 Fax 2269-9555 Rooms 13
This fabulous family-run hotel on a coffee farm is an architectural delight inspired by Spanish architect Antoni
Gaud. Each guest room has unique decor and gourmet meals are served (see p227). Horseback rides, bungee
jumping, and whitewater rafting can be arranged. www.fincarosablanca.com
LA GARITA Hotel La Rosa de Amrica h0S7 \\\
Barrio San Jos, 3 miles (5 km) W of Alajuela Tel 2433-2741 Fax 2433-2741 Rooms 12
Located at an elevation of 3,000 ft (915 m) between La Garita and Alajuela, La Rosa de Amrica is an intimate,
reasonably priced hotel. Rooms are available in cabins set amid lush gardens. The Canadian family who owns it
keeps it spotlessly clean. www.larosadeamerica.com
LA GARITA Martino Resort & Spa h0Sz \\\\
Hwy 3, 2 miles (3 km) E of Pan-Am Hwy Tel 2433-8382 Fax 2433-9052 Rooms 42
Manicured lawns, sumptuous hardwoods, and Romanesque-style statuary are hallmarks of this gracious family-run
hotel. Facilities include a casino, tennis court, a modern gym and full-service spa, and a cigar bar and gourmet
restaurant (see p228). www.hotelmartino.com
LOS ANGELES CLOUD FOREST RESERVE Villablanca Cloud Forest Hotel h07 \\\\
Los Angeles, 7 miles (12 km) N of San Ramn Tel 2401-3800 Fax 2461-0302 Rooms 35
Perched atop the Continental Divide at the edge of a cloud forest, this colonial-era farmstead offers charming
cottages warmed by log fires. Horseback rides, hikes, and bird-watching tours over 5 sq miles (12 sq km) of dairy
pasture and cloud forest are a specialty. www.villablanca-costarica.com
MONTE DE LA CRUZ Hotel Chalet Tirol h0S7 \\\
6 miles (10 km) NE of Heredia Tel 2267-6222 Fax 2267-6373 Rooms 34

Designed in the style of a Swiss alpine village, this mountain retreat has a fine restaurant (see p228). Choose from
modern hotel rooms or rustic yet cozy chalets. Trails lead into cloud forest, and its facilities include tennis courts, a
sauna, and meeting and convention facilities. www.eltirol.net
OROSI Orosi Lodge h0z \\\
SW of the plaza, Orosi village Tel 2533-3578 Fax 2533-3578 Rooms 6

This simple yet charming family-run hotel is a minutes walk from hot spring pools, and is well placed for other local
attractions such as Casa el Soador. It offers rooms with kitchenettes, private baths, and terraces. It is known for its
excellent caf, which also has Internet facilities (see p228). www.orosilodge.com
OROSI Rancho Ro Perlas Spa & Resort h0S7 \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) W of Orosi Tel 2533-3341 Fax 2533-3085 Rooms 69

Surrounded by lush gardens, the secluded valley setting is a plus point for this modern chain hotel resembling
a village complete with chapel. Thermal waters feed the pool and spa. Fishing outings to the five ponds in the
surrounding area can be organized for keen anglers. www.rioperlasspaandresort.com
POS Siempre Verde Bed & Breakfast h07 \\\
Doka Estate, 7 miles (11 km) N of Alajuela Tel 2449-5562 Fax 2239-0540 Rooms 4
Scenically situated within a vast coffee plantation, this warm, friendly hotel is a peaceful retreat from the bustle of
the cities. Siempre Verde provides breakfast, as well as meals for special events such as conferences and private
parties. www.siempreverdebandb.com
SALISPUEDES Finca Eddie Serrano h07 \\\
Km 80 on the Pan-Am Hwy Tel 8381-8456 or 2200-5915 Rooms 16

Quetzals are found in plenty at Finca Eddie Serrano (see p96), also known as Albergue Mirador de Quetzales.
Located near Genesis II, this rustic timber lodge has simple log cabins offering awesome views, and is perfect for
keen birders. The rates include breakfast and dinner. www.elmiradordequetzales.com
SAN ANTONIO DE BELN Costa Rica Marriott h0Sz7 \\\\\
Ribera de Beln, 1 mile (1.6 km) E of San Antonio de Beln Tel 2298-0000 Fax 2298-0011 Rooms 290
This deluxe hotel set amid coffee fields boasts a sensational location with splendid views toward the Talamanca
mountains. Guest rooms are sumptuous, and the well-rounded facilities include swimming pool, gym, boutiques,
and a choice of restaurants. www.marriotthotels.com
SAN GERARDO DE DOTA Trogon Lodge h0 \\\
5 miles (8 km) W of the Pan-Am Hwy Tel 2293-8181 Fax 2239-7657 Rooms 23
Situated amid lush gardens at an elevation of 7,000 ft (2,135 m) in the Valle de San Gerardo, this wooden lodge
enjoys a marvelous setting next to the clear waters of Ro Savegre. It offers trout fishing, as well as hiking, horseback
rides, and mountain biking, plus a zipline. www.grupomawamba.com
SAN GERARDO DE DOTA Dantica Lodge & Gallery h07 \\\\\
2.5 miles (4 km) S of reserve entrance Tel 2740-1067 Fax 2740-1071 Rooms 10
With its own private trails within the cloud forest, this colonial-style lodge has bungalows with modern interiors and
large glass windows offering stunning views over the surrounding canopy. The forest is rich in bird species, and the
lodge has all mod cons, as well as its own gallery of indigenous crafts. www.dantica.com
TURRIALBA Hotel Villa Florencia h0S:z7 \\\\
4 miles (6 km) SE of Turrialba Tel 2557-3536 Fax 2556-2372 Rooms 11

Opened in 2008, this converted villa is an excellent option for bird-watchers, given its hilltop setting overlooking
sugarcane fields close to Lake Angostura. The spacious guest rooms feature such details as terracotta tiles and
river stones. www.villaflorencia.com
TURRIALBA Hotel Casa Turire h0S \\\\\
Hacienda Atirro, 5 miles (8 km) SE of Turrialba Tel 2531-1111 Fax 2531-1075 Rooms 16
Situated on the shores of Lake Angostura, this delightful boutique hotel has spacious rooms and an elegant
restaurant (see p229). Activities include visits to sugarcane, coffee, and macadamia nut processing centers. It is
a member of Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica (see p198). www.hotelcasaturire.com
TURRIALBA Rancho Naturalista h0 \\\\\
Tus, 9 miles (14 km) E of Turrialba Tel 2544-8100 Fax 2544-8101 Rooms 11
Perched on a mountainside, this homely wilderness ranch run by Evangelicals, is considered one of the finest birding
lodges in the country. They have an extensive trail system and resident guides. Visitors can choose between cottages
or rooms. Meals and guided hikes are included in the price. www.ranchonaturalista.net
VARA BLANCA Pos Volcano Lodge h07 \\\\
14 miles (22 km) N of Alajuela Tel 2482-2194 Fax 2482-2513 Rooms 11

Remodeled after being damaged by the 2009 earthquake, this cozy family-run hotel stands amid cattle pastures
with stupendous views. Guests are offered log fires and down comforters. There is also a games room, a gift shop,
a small library, and an art gallery. www.poasvolcanolodge.com
VARA BLANCA Peace Lodge h0S \\\\\
Montaa Azul,15 miles (24 km) N of Alajuela Tel 2482-2720 Fax 2482-2720 Rooms 17
Located at the La Paz Waterfall Gardens, the lodges dramatic deluxe decor includes natural wood beams,
hardwood flooring, hand-crafted canopy beds, fireplaces, and garden bathrooms and riverstone showers in
spacious rooms. Each room boasts a Jacuzzi and oversized balcony. www.waterfallgardens.com
VOLCN TURRIALBA Volcn Turrialba Lodge h0z7 \\\\
12 miles (19 km) NW of Turrialba Tel 2273-4335 Fax 2273-0703 Rooms 22

This simple mountain lodge is situated between Turrialba and Iraz Volcanoes, perfect for horseback rides and
hiking. Of particular interest is the Volcn Turrialba Tour, a unique opportunity to descend to the floor of a major
volcanic crater. A 4WD is required to access the lodge. www.volcanturrialbalodge.com
THE CENTRAL PACIFIC AND SOUTHERN NICOYA
ESTERILLOS Xandari by the Pacific h0Sz7 \\\\\
Esterillos Este, 10 miles (16 km) S of Jac Tel 2778-7070 Fax 2778-7878 Rooms 21
A twin to the superb Xandari in Alajuela (see p204), this beachside property has gorgeous contemporary villas
fronting a sweeping gray-sand beach, although many guests prefer to laze on their terraces or by the pool. The
garden is studded with contemporary sculptures. Organic meals are served. www.xandari.com
JAC Hotel Cocal and Casino h0Sz \\\
Calle Cocal Tel 2643-3067 Fax 2643-0036 Rooms 43

Conveniently located, this is a lively low-rise beachfront hotel. With two swimming pools and a poolside bar, an
open-air restaurant that serves good international cuisine, and a casino, the hotel is popular with small tour groups.
Children are not allowed. www.hotelcocalandcasino.com
JAC Hotel Poseidon h0Sz7 \\\\
Calle Boho Tel 2643-1642 Rooms 14

The gourmet restaurant (see p229) is the highlight of this two-story hotel with modest furnishings. The upstairs
rooms are better. All rooms have minibars and Wi-Fi, and some have ceiling fans instead of air-conditioning. The
hotel can arrange tours and activities. www.hotel-poseidon.com
JAC Vista Guapa Surf Camp hSz \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) NW of Jac Tel 2643-2830 Rooms 6

Set on a hillside, this surfers hotel has simply but comfortably furnished bungalows, with great views of the ocean.
Guests can watch TV in the communal lounge. While there is no restaurant as such, breakfast and dinner are
available in the main house. The hotel specializes in surfing packages. www.vistaguapa.com
JAC Hotel Club del Mar h0Sz7 \\\\\
Hwy 34, 1 mile (1.6 km) S of Jac Tel 2643-3194 Fax 2643-3550 Rooms 31
This upscale beachfront hotel has rooms and self-catering villas around a huge pool with a tapas bar. There is a
lush garden, an open-air restaurant, and a full-service spa. The focus is on water sports, with swimming, surfing,
and canoeing on offer. Kayaks can also be rented. www.clubdelmarcostarica.com
MALPAS Malpas Surf Camp & Resort h0S \
S of Carmen Tel 2640-0031 Fax 2640-0061 Rooms 16

This well-run surfers camp has several types of accommodations, from camping and cabins with shared bathrooms
to poolside rooms and rustic bungalows with their own facilities. It offers various forms of recreation, such as
horseback riding, mountain biking, and surf fishing, as well as surfing tours. www.malpaissurfcamp.com
MALPAS Hotel Milarepa h0S7 \\\\
Playa Santa Teresa, 3 miles (5 km) N of Carmen Tel 2640-0023 Fax 2640-0663 Rooms 4
This intimate beachfront hotel is operated by live-in French owners. With an Asian aesthetic, the bungalows sit on
the sands and have antique four-poster beds, open, screened walls, and partly open-air bathrooms. The restaurant
serves gourmet cuisine. www.milarepahotel.com
MALPAS Moana Lodge h0Sz \\\\
2 miles (3 km) S of Carmen Tel 2640-0230 Fax 2640-0623 Rooms 10

Beautifully decorated according to an African safari theme, Moana Lodge offers log cabins and lavish suites that
nestle right at the forests edge. Huge showers are a highlight, and all lodgings have Wi-Fi. The gourmet open-air
restaurant overlooks a landscaped pool. www.moanalodge.com
MALPAS Star Mountain Eco-Resort h0S \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) E of Malpas Tel 2640-0101 Fax 2640-0102 Rooms 5

A family-run ecological lodge, Star Mountain Eco-Resort is surrounded by forests adjoining Parque Nacional Cabo
Blanco. Highlights are the colorful decor and a delightful tropical ambience. The hotels open-air restaurant looks
over lush grounds that meld into the lodges own forest reserve. www.starmountaineco.com
MALPAS Florblanca Resort h0Sz \\\\\
Playa Santa Teresa, 3 miles (5 km) N of Carmen Tel 2640-0232 Fax 2640-0226 Rooms 10
A serene beachfront deluxe resort with a Balinese motif. Spacious villas feature bathrooms open to the sky and
tasteful furnishings, while the alfresco Nectar Bar & Restaurante offers gourmet food (see p229). Guests can learn
yoga and martial arts. A member of Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica (see p198). www.florblanca.com
MANUEL ANTONIO Vista Serena Hostel hz7 \
2 miles (3 km) SE of Quepos Tel 2777-5162 Rooms 12

One of the best backpackers hostels in Costa Rica, this hillside retreat is kept spotless by the mother-and-son
team that owns and runs it. Guests socialize in the TV lounge and on the veranda with games and hammocks.
Vista Serena also has an Internet caf. www.vistaserena.com
MANUEL ANTONIO Hotel Mono Azul h0Sz \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) S of Quepos Tel 2777-2572 Fax 2777-1954 Rooms 32

This homely hotel is run along ecological lines and offers an assortment of 27 different rooms (made by combining
a few small hotels and villas), which are all well equipped. There are also three swimming pools, wireless Internet
access (for a small fee) and a good restaurant. Family friendly. www.monoazul.com
MANUEL ANTONIO Arenas del Mar h0Sz7 \\\\\
4 miles (6.5 km) S of Quepos Tel 2777-2777 Fax 2777-2777 Rooms 38

Opened in 2008, Arenas del Mar is a deluxe retreat with an enviable location at the north end of Playa Espadilla.
The stylish suites all feature whirlpool spas on balconies overhanging the beach. Gourmet dishes are served in an
airy thatched restaurant. www.arenasdelmar.com
MANUEL ANTONIO Hotel La Mariposa h0Sz \\\\\
3 miles (5 km) S of Quepos Tel 2777-0355 Fax 2777-0050 Rooms 62

A venerable hotel with a magnificent hilltop setting, Hotel La Mariposa has fantastic views of the ocean and the
rainforests of Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. Rooms vary from Mediterranean-style cottages to contemporary
suites. The restaurant is renowned (see p230). Free shuttles to the beach. www.hotelmariposa.com
MANUEL ANTONIO Hotel Si Como No Resort h0Sz7 \\\\\

This is an ecologically sensitive upscale contemporary hotel with a choice of restaurants (see p230). It boasts a
multimedia theater, Internet caf, spa, two pools, and a host of activities. Original rooms have a Disneyesque feel;
newer rooms are more elegant. www.sicomono.com
MANUEL ANTONIO Makanda by the Sea h0S \\\\\

Makanda offers great forest and ocean views from spacious deluxe villas in harmony with their surroundings.
Forest trails lead to a secluded beach with pre-Columbian fish traps. There is an infinity pool, and a romantic
open-air restaurant serves gourmet cuisine (see p230). www.makanda.com
MONTEZUMA Horizontes de Montezuma h0S \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) N of Montezuma Tel 2642-0534 Fax 2642-0625 Rooms 7

A gracious plantation-style hilltop lodging with a huge veranda, this German-run hotel has delightful, sparkling-white
decor. It offers intensive as well as short-term Spanish language courses. The hotel can make arrangements with local
tour operators for various activities. www.horizontes-montezuma.com
MONTEZUMA Nature Lodge Finca Los Caballos h0S \\\\
2 miles (3 km) N of Montezuma Tel 2642-0124 Fax 2642-0664 Rooms 12

Run by a German-Costa Rican couple, the Nature Lodge was built by built local craftsmen using wood, stone and
terracotta. Some of the rooms have outdoor showers with wonderful Pacific views, and breakfast is included in the
price. Horse riding, full moon beach tours, and birding are specialities. www.naturelodge.net
MONTEZUMA Ylang Ylang Beach Resort 0S \\\\\
Playa Grande, 0.5 mile (1 km) E of Montezuma Tel 2642-0636 Fax 2642-0631 Rooms 20
Set amid lush palm-shaded gardens, this attractive hotel is reached by a beach walk. It features various types
of accommodations, including the El Sano Banano Hotel, safari tents, beach suites, and bungalows, all with an
exquisite and creative aesthetic. The landscaped pool is a highlight. www.ylangylangresort.com
PLAYA HERMOSA Cabinas Las Arenas h0 \\
Hwy 34 Tel 2643-7013 Fax 210-764-5675 Rooms 10

Sitting over the shore, this surfers guesthouse has charming wooden cabins and also permits camping.
The restaurant is appealingly rustic, and there is a souvenir shop. Various tour reservations are offered.
www.cabinaslasarenas.com
PLAYA HERMOSA Terraza del Pacfico h0Sz \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) S of Jac Tel 2440-6862 Fax 2430-7571 Rooms 62

Although it promotes itself as a surfers hotel, Terraza del Pacifico is a modern beachfront option with broad
appeal. It offers rooms and suites (with kitchenettes), as well as a pool for children. Canopy tours and dolphin-
watching trips can be arranged. www.terrazadelpacifico.com
PLAYA HERRADURA Hotel Villa Caletas h0Sz \\\\\
2 miles (3 km) N of Playa Herradura Tel 2637-0505 Fax 2637-0404 Rooms 36

Combining a sublime mountaintop location and stunning decor, this French-run hotel exudes luxury. Its restaurants
are acclaimed (see p230), and it has a full-service spa. Live concerts are held in the classical amphitheater set in
the cliff-face. A member of Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica. www.hotelvillacaletas.com
PLAYA HERRADURA Los Sueos Marriott Ocean & Golf Resort h0Sz7 \\\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) W of Hwy 34 Tel 2630-9000 Fax 2630-9090 Rooms 201
This grand beachfront hotel boasts a marina, a golf course in the lap of nature, a casino, business facilities, and
a choice of restaurants (see p230). Tastefully done-up suites have superb views of the ocean and mountains
surrounding the resort, as well as minibars and 24-hour service. www.marriott.com/sjols
PLAYA HERRADURA Zephyr Palace h0Sz7 \\\\\
2 miles (3 km) N of Playa Herradura Tel 2637-0505 Fax 2637-0404 Rooms 12

The countrys most luxurious hotel enjoys the same sublime views as the adjoining Hotel Villa Caletas (see p207).
Inspired throughout by the grandeur of Imperial Rome, Zephyr Palace offers sumptuous suites on a range of themes,
including African safari and Ancient Egypt. www.zephyrpalace.com
PUNTARENAS Hotel Tioga h0Sz7 \\\\

Established in 1959, this venerable hotel facing the Gulf of Nicoya is close to several good restaurants and bars.
Rooms are adequate rather than inspired; some have only cold water. Hotel Tioga has a small casino, and the
enclosed pool in the atrium courtyard has an island with a large tree. www.hoteltioga.com
PUNTARENAS Doubletree Resort by Hilton Puntarenas h0Sz7 \\\\\
Playa Puntarenas, 5 miles (8 km) E of Puntarenas Tel 2663-0808 Fax 2663-0856 Rooms 230
This lively beach resort has a casino and several pools, bars, and restaurants. Sports facilities include tennis,
volleyball, mini-golf, and water sports. Also on offer are live entertainment at night and a kids club. The resort
has stylish guest rooms and gets crowded on weekends. www.doubletree1.hilton.com
QUEPOS Wide Mouth Frog hSz7 \
100 yards (100 m) E of the bus station Tel 2777-2798 Rooms 24

British and New Zealand partners run this highly regarded backpackers hostel in the heart of Quepos. Maintained
to high standards, Wide Mouth Frog has tastefully decorated dorms and private rooms around a courtyard with
pool. Facilities include an Internet station and self-catering kitchen. www.widemouthfrog.org
SAVEGRE Rafiki Safari Lodge h0S \\\\\
19 miles (30 km) SE of Quepos Tel 2777-2250 Fax 2777-5327 Rooms 10

Set in a deep river valley, this African-style lodge has luxurious safari tents with fully appointed bathrooms.
The lodge offers nature trips, as well as kayaking and whitewater rafting. A highlight is its South African braai
(barbecue) in a thatched open-air restaurant. www.rafikisafari.com
TAMBOR Tambor Tropical h0S \\\\\
0.5 (1 km) SW of the airstrip Tel 2683-0011 Fax 503-371-2471 Rooms 20

A modern beachside hotel, Tambor Tropical features hexagonal two-story hardwood cabins in tranquil landscaped
grounds. The hotel offers a spa and yoga classes. Among the many activities available for guests are boat trips,
sportfishing, and horseback riding. www.tambortropical.com
TAMBOR Tango Mar Resort h0Sz7 \\\\\
3 miles (5 km) SW of Tambor Tel 2683-0001 Fax 2683-0003 Rooms 35

Tango Mar boasts a cliffside setting overlooking a splendid beach. Choose from amongst modern hotel rooms,
romantic thatched cabins, and villas. The resort has a nine-hole golf course, stables, and a yoga and spa center,
as well as a choice of two restaurants. www.tangomar.com
BAHA CULEBRA Four Seasons Resort at Papagayo Peninsula h0Sz7 \\\\\
Punta Mala, 27 miles (43 km) W of Liberia Tel 2696-0000 Fax 2696-0510 Rooms 155
Visitors get the best of all worlds at this deluxe chain resort: a fabulous hilltop location, excellent facilities, and fine
service. It offers three swimming pools, a full-service spa, tennis, and a championship golf course designed by
Arnold Palmer. www.fourseasons.com/costarica
BAHA SALINAS Eco-Playa Resort h0Sz7 \\\\
Playa La Coyotera, 10 miles (16 km) W of La Cruz Tel 2228-7146 Fax 2289-4536 Rooms 36
Home to an advanced windsurfing center, this beachfront resort has a windswept location and spacious, well-
appointed rooms. Guests can visit nearby Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Isla Bolaos by kayak or boat. Also
on offer are tours to Nicaraguas colonial cities and to Lake Nicaragua. www.ecoplaya.com
CAAS Hacienda La Pacifica h0z7 \\\\
2.5 miles (4 km) N of Caas Tel 2669-6050 Rooms 19

This historic property is situated at the heart of a working cattle estate and reforestation project. Oak furnishings
evoke a suitably rustic feel, but guests rooms have Wi-Fi and cable TV, although the beds are far from comfortable.
A homey restaurant serves traditional fare. www.pacificacr.com
ISLITA Hotel Punta Islita h0Sz \\\\\
Punta Islita, 10 miles (16 km) S of Carrillo Tel 2231-6122 Fax 2232-2183 Rooms 32
This remote hillside deluxe hotel provides a variety of accommodations. Most of them have canopy beds and
great views. The hotel has the gourmet 1492 Restaurante (see p231), a spa, and a beach club, and offers kayaking,
canopy tours, and an ATV adventure ride along mountain trails. www.hotelpuntaislita.com
LIBERIA Best Western Hotel & Casino El Sitio h0Sz7 \\\
Hwy 21, W of Pan-Am Hwy Tel 2666-1211 Fax 2666-2059 Rooms 52

This modern hotel has spacious rooms around an atmospheric courtyard with two pools. It also has gift stores,
a tour desk, and a casino for those who wish to try their luck. It is the perfect jumping-off point for visiting Pacific
beaches, national parks, and volcanoes. www.bestwestern.com
LIBERIA Bed & Breakfast El Punto h0z7 \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) S of Liberia Tel 2665-2986 Rooms 6

Owner Mariana Estreda has transformed a former school into a cleverly designed boutique hotel with lively color
schemes and contemporary furnishings. Shaded balconies face a lush garden, and there is also a stylish restaurant.
An on-site spa is due to open soon. www.elpuntohotel.com
MONTEVERDE Pensin Santa Elena \\
Santa Elena, E of bus stop Tel 2645-5051 Fax 2645-5051 Rooms 24

In the heart of Santa Elena, this popular and friendly budget hotel appeals to backpackers. Bright and inviting
private rooms, deluxe rooms, and budget dorms are available. The hotel offers a short cut tour to Volcn Arenal,
and also has a tourist information bureau. www.pensionsantaelena.com
MONTEVERDE Arco Iris Lodge h \\\
Santa Elena, NE of bus stop Tel 2645-5067 Fax 2645-5022 Rooms 12

Albergue Arco Iris is a superbly run budget hotel in the center of Santa Elena. Amid well-tended lawns are a dozen
delightful stone-and-timber cottages built by craftsmen using locally available material. The hotel is well placed for
both the Monteverde and Santa Elena Reserves. www.arcoirislodge.com
MONTEVERDE El Sapo Dorado h0 \\\\
Cerro Plano, 0.5 mile (1 km) E of Santa Elena Tel 2645-5010 Fax 2645-5180 Rooms 30
This hillside hotel has accommodations in lovely stone-and-timber cottages. Some suites offer the coziness of a
fireplace, while others have open-air terraces overlooking the Gulf of Nicoya. El Sapo Dorado also boasts one of
Monteverdes premier restaurants (see p232). www.sapodorado.com
MONTEVERDE Monteverde Lodge h07 \\\\
SE of Santa Elena Tel 2257-0766 Fax 2257-1665 Rooms 27

A contemporary hotel set in exquisite gardens at the edge of Costa Ricas best-known cloud forest, Monteverde
Lodge offers spacious rooms, a family-size Jacuzzi, and fine dining. Operated by Costa Rica Expeditions, it
specializes in birding and nature hikes. www.costaricaexpeditions.com
NOSARA Hotel Caf de Paris h0Sz \\\
Beaches of Nosara, 4 miles (6 km) S of the airstrip Tel 2682-0087 Fax 2682-0089 Rooms 17
What started as a great French-run bakery has expanded into an open-air restaurant, bar, and hotel featuring
a range of accommodations. The architecture of the hotel makes the most of the tropical breezes. A selection
of activities is available. www.cafedeparis.net
NOSARA Lagarta Lodge h0S \\\
Punta Nosara, 2 miles (3 km) S of Boca Nosara Tel 2682-0035 Fax 2682-0135 Rooms 6
A Swiss-run hilltop hotel whose main appeal lies in the wonderful coast or hill vista that every room offers, as well
as the restaurant and bar. Rooms are comfortable, although uninspired. Trails lead into Reserva Biolgica Nosara,
and canoeing, and bird- and turtle-watching trips are offered. www.lagarta.com
NOSARA Harmony Hotel h0Sz7 \\\\
Playa Guiones, Beaches of Nosara Tel 2682-4113 Fax 2682-4114 Rooms 24

This hotel is located just a stones throw from the beach and has a hip contemporary aesthetic. It offers a choice
of rooms and bungalows with Wi-Fi and colorful furnishings. The landscaped pool is set in lush grounds, and
activities such as tennis and yoga are available. www.harmonynosara.com
NOSARA LAcqua Viva Hotel & Spa h0Sz7 \\\\\
2 miles (3 km) S of Boca Nosara Tel 2682-1087 Fax 2682-0420 Rooms 35

This fashionable Indonesian-themed resort opened in 2009 in the midst of a forest a 15-minute walk from the
beach. Soaring thatched structures include a dramatic main lodge overlooking a multilevel swimming pool. Oriental
furnishings abound throughout. www.lacquaviva.com
PLAYA AVELLANAS JW Marriott Guanacaste Resort & Spa h0Sz7 \\\\\
Hacienda Pinilla, 3 miles (5 km) S of Tamarindo Tel 2681-2000 Fax 2681-2001 Rooms 310
The Marriott chain opened this deluxe hotel in 2009 at the heart of a residential complex with a championship
golf course. Sumptuous throughout, the Guanacaste Resort exudes an atmosphere of pampered comfort. Facilities
include a spa, gym, tennis, and stables. www.marriott.com
PLAYA CARRILLO El Sueo Tropical h0Sz \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) SE of Puerto Carrillo Tel 2656-0151 Fax 2656-0152 Rooms 12
Set amid vast beautiful gardens, this comfortable hotel run by a Tica-US couple has two swimming pools, a dozen
rooms, and a thatched hilltop restaurant. Each room is decorated with bamboo and tropical pastels. Free transfers
to Playa Carrillos airstrip are available. www.elsuenotropical.com
PLAYA CONCHAL Paradisus Playa Conchal Beach & Golf Resort h 0 S z 7 \\\\\
Playa Brasilito, 2 miles (3 km) SW of Flamingo Tel 2654-4123 Fax 2654-4181 Rooms 406
This deluxe all-inclusive resort nestles up to a sparkling white beach and is known for its championship golf course.
The spacious rooms are elegantly appointed. Meals can be expensive but local restaurants are a short distance
away. Activities on offer at Paradisus include water sports. www.solmelia.com
PLAYA FLAMINGO Mariner Inn h0Sz \\\
By the marina, central Playa Flamingo Tel 2654-4081 Fax 2654-4024 Rooms 12
A favorite of yachting enthusiasts, this small two-story inn is conveniently located next to the marina. The lively
open-air Spreader Bar has great views and is where anglers, divers, and surfers can relax and watch the activity
at the marina from the comfort of leather rockers. marinerinn@racsa.co.cr
PLAYA FLAMINGO Flamingo Marina Resort h0Sz \\\\
Atop hill, S of central Playa Flamingo Tel 2654-4141 Fax 2654-4035 Rooms 123
This rambling hotel is perched on a lush hilltop close to the unspoiled expanse of Playa Flamingo. In addition to
tropical breezes and spectacular views, it offers comfortable rooms, swimming pools, bars, and restaurants. It also
has a boutique, dive shop, and activity center. www.flamingomarina.com
PLAYA GRANDE Hotel Bula Bula h0Sz7 \\\\
S of El Mundo de la Tortuga, S end of Playa Grande Tel 2653-0975 Fax 2653-0978 Rooms 10
This low-rise hotel offers intimate rooms with delightful decor and private baths. The open-air restaurant is run by
a professional chef and opens on to lush gardens (see p233). Also on offer are turtle tours and aquatic activities,
as well as visits to Guaitl and Arenal and Rincn de la Vieja Volcanoes. www.hotelbulabula.com
PLAYA GRANDE Hotel Las Tortugas h0Sz \\\\
W of El Mundo de la Tortuga, N end of Playa Grande Tel 2653-0423 Fax 2653-0458 Rooms 11
Situated right next to Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas, this ecologically sensitive hotel is popular with surfers.
Rooms facing the turtle-nesting beach lack ocean views as turtles are sensitive to light. However, the amiable
atmosphere and excellent restaurant make up for this (see p233). www.lastortugashotel.com
PLAYA HERMOSA Hotel La Finisterra h0Sz \\\\
Atop hill, W of main road, S end of Playa Hermosa Tel 2672-0227 Fax 2672-0293 Rooms 10
Known for its fine dining (see p233), this hilltop hotel also offers the best views in the region. The spacious rooms
include private bathrooms. Breakfast is included in the price. Among other activities, guests can tour Ro Bebedero
in Parque Nacional Palo Verde in a panga (water-taxi) or explore the Ro Tempisque estuary. www.lafinisterra.com
PLAYA HERMOSA Villas del Sueo h0Sz7 \\\\
W of main road, S end of Playa Hermosa Tel 2672-0026 Fax 2672-0026 Rooms 14
Friendly Canadian hosts oversee this well-run hotel. It offers both spacious rooms and self-contained villas. There
is gourmet dining in the open-air restaurant, which offers live music (see p233). Activities include hiking, kayaking,
rafting, and visits to Guatil. www.villadelsueno.com
PLAYA HERMOSA Hotel Playa Hermosa h0Sz7 \\\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) W of the main road in Playa Hermosa Tel 2672-0046 Fax 2672-0019 Rooms 32
Once quite simple, this beachfront hotel was totally renovated and upgraded by new owners in 2008/9 and now
boasts a series of two-story Balinese-style units around a landscaped pool shaded by venerable trees. The restaurant
is one of the regions finest. www.hotelplayahermosa.com
PLAYA NEGRA Pablos Picasso h0z7 \\
S of Los Pargos Tel 2658-9158 Rooms 11

Located near one of the premier surfing spots of Costa Rica and aimed mainly at surfers and backpackers, this
budget hotel offers dorms and simple cabinas (see p197). It also has a restaurant (see p233) and a bar with a pool
table and videos. The rates include breakfast. Tamarindo is a short drive away.
PLAYA NEGRA Caf Playa Negra h0z \\\
200 yards (200 m) S of the soccer field Tel 2652-9351 Rooms 6

The beach may be a 15-minute walk away, yet this small hotel in the village is the nicest for miles. Run by a friendly
Peruvian owner-chef, it offers tasteful offbeat furnishings in colorful rooms. Downstairs, a lively bar-restaurant (see
p233) serves an eclectic menu and has Internet service. www.playanegracafe.com
PLAYA OCOTAL El Ocotal Beach Resort & Marina h0Sz7 \\\\\
2 miles (3 km) SW of Playas del Coco Tel 2670-0321 Fax 2670-0083 Rooms 71
Commanding a hilltop with spectacular views, this modern hotel specializes in scuba diving and sportfishing but
is a splendid option for everyone. Also on offer are snorkeling, mountain biking, kayaking, tennis, and horseback
riding. www.ocotalresort.com
PLAYA OSTIONAL Tree Tops Bed & Breakfast h \\\\
San Juanillo, 3 miles (5 km) N of Ostional Tel 2682-1334 Fax 2682-1334 Rooms 1
The owners rent out one sparsely furnished room in their thatched home overlooking a cove surrounded by
wildlife-rich forest. Guests are welcomed as family, and the meals served are delicious. Activities include swimming
with turtles, riding, and sportfishing. treetopscostarica@gmail.com
PLAYAS DEL COCO Caf de Playa Beach & Dining Club h0Sz7 \\\\
600 yards (600 m) E of the village center Tel 2670-1621 Rooms 5

Guests at this deluxe boutique hotel can enjoy the best of all worlds: a beachfront locale, a gourmet restaurant,
a sushi bar, a canopy-shaded swimming pool, and hip contemporary furnishings in the individually styled bedrooms.
A Hobie-Cat takes guests out on the bay. www.cafedeplaya.com
PLAYAS DEL COCO Hotel Puerta del Sol h0Sz7 \\\\
SE of the plaza Tel 2293-8109 Fax 2239-3733 Rooms 22

Decorated in warm tropical pastels, this small, intimate hotel is run with panache by its Italian owners. It is
acclaimed for Sol y Luna, its open-air gourmet restaurant (see p233). Just a few minutes away from Playas del
Coco fishing village, the hotel offers diving, sportfishing, and boat tours. www.bbpuertadelsol.com
PLAYAS DEL COCO Rancho Armadillo hSz \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) SE of Playas del Coco Tel 2670-0108 Fax 2670-0441 Rooms 6
This hacienda-style hotel offers a tranquil setting amid expansive grounds. There is delightful decor in the spacious
rooms, all of which have rainforest showers. The owner, a former chef, prepares meals by request and rents out
the entire complex to groups. www.ranchoarmadillo.com
RINCN DE LA VIEJA Aroma de Campo h0z7 \\\
Curuband, 11 miles (18 km) E of Pan-Am Hwy Tel 2665-0008 Fax 2665-0011 Rooms 4
The Belgian owners of this charming hillside hotel, dramatically located at the base of the Rincn de la Vieja volcano,
pamper guests with gourmet meals served on an open-air patio. Furnishings are simple yet colorful and romantic.
Friendly dogs and other animals abound. www.aromadecampo.com
RINCN DE LA VIEJA Buena Vista Mountain Lodge & Adventure Center h07 \\\
17 miles (27 km) NE of Liberia via Caas Dulces Tel 2665-7759 Fax 2665-7759 Rooms 80
This ecolodge, a former cattle ranch, is known for the range of activities it offers, including a water slide and
canopy trail. Accommodation is in stone-and-timber cabins, and a rustic open-air restaurant serves tpico (typical)
meals, made using the lodges own produce. www.buenavistalodgecr.com
RINCN DE LA VIEJA Hacienda Lodge Guachipeln h0S \\\
14 miles (22 km) NE of Liberia via Curuband Tel 2666-8075 Fax 2665-2178 Rooms 40
At the center of a working cattle and horse farm, this down-to-earth, cozy hotel is perfectly situated for exploring
Parque Nacional Rincn de la Vieja on horseback. The hotels wide, inviting verandas are great for spending a
somnolent afternoon. There are many activities on offer. www.guachipelin.com
RINCN DE LA VIEJA Rincn de la Vieja Lodge h0S \\\
17 miles (27 km) NE of Liberia via Curuband Tel 2200-0238 Fax 2666-2441 Rooms 22
Close to the park entrance, and the nearest hotel to the volcano, this nature lodge has rustic wooden dorms,
cabins, and bungalows spread throughout landscaped grounds. About 70 percent of the lodges vast grounds
are part of a reserve. The rates include meals.
SMARA Flying Crocodile Lodge h0Sz7 \\\
Playa Buena Vista, 5 miles (8 km) N of Smara Tel 2656-8048 Fax 2656-8049 Rooms 8
One of Costa Ricas most eclectic hotels, the German-run Flying Crocodile Lodge doubles as an ultralight flight
center. The cabins, each distinct, are bold statements of artsy design infused with Moroccan, Indian, and other
exotic influences. www.flying-crocodile.com
SMARA Hotel Belvedere h0Sz7 \\\
Playa Smara, NE of soccer field Tel 2656-0213 Fax 2656-0213 Rooms 12

This cozy hotel on the hillside, close to the beach, has Swiss-style chalets, some with air-conditioning and king-size
beds. The lush gardens contain a Jacuzzi and a swimming pool, which look out on to the ocean. Breakfast, included
in the rate, is served on the terrace. www.belvederesamara.net
SMARA Hotel Casa del Mar h0z \\\
Playa Smara, E of soccer field Tel 2656-0264 Fax 2656-0129 Rooms 17

This small, two-story bed-and-breakfast is run to high standards by its French-Canadian owners. The rooms have
simple furnishings. There are hammocks and lounge chairs for relaxing in the tropical garden or by the Jacuzzi.
Nearby is a 5-mile (8-km) long beach for quiet walks. www.casadelmarsamara.net
SANTA CRUZ Hotel La Calle de Alcala h0Sz7 \\\
SE of Plaza de los Mangos Tel 2680-0000 Fax 2680-1633 Rooms 29

Hotel La Calle de Alcala is an intimate modern hotel with delightful decor and an appealing open-air bar and
restaurant. The air-conditioned rooms have attached bathrooms. Among the amenities it offers are a swimming
pool and Jacuzzi, and two conference rooms. hotelalcala@hotmail.com
TAMARINDO Hostel La Botella de Leche hz7 \\
Across from the gym, Tamarindo Tel 2653-2061 Fax 2653-0189 Rooms 12
This hostel for surfers and backpackers offers exceptional value for money. Guests can choose from dorms or
private rooms. There is a communal kitchen, lockers, and Internet access, and surfboard rental is offered.
www.labotelladeleche.com
TAMARINDO Hotel Arco Iris 0 \\
E of Parque Central Tel 2653-0330 Fax 2653-0330 Rooms 5

New owners have infused this formerly offbeat hotel with a dynamic 21st-century look, including stone-walled
bathrooms. The highlights are a wood-and-tone sundeck and a gourmet restaurant serving Mediterranean-inspired
cuisine. www.hotelarcoiris.com
TAMARINDO Luna Llena h0Sz \\\\
SE of Iguana Surf Tel 2653-0082 Fax 2653-0120 Rooms 13

This brightly colored, intimate hotel is run to professional standards by its Italian owners. Stone pathways run
between conical thatched cottages, whose comfortable rooms exude good taste. All the cottages have private
bathrooms. www.hotellunallena.com
TAMARINDO Cala Luna Hotel & Villas h0Sz7 \\\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) W of central Tamarindo Tel 2653-0214 Fax 2653-0213 Rooms 41
Rich earth colors and polished hardwoods grace this deluxe hotel with a New Mexico theme. Guests can choose to
stay in rooms or villas. Each room has a patio terrace. The villas have their own private pool, parking, and kitchen.
Typical Guanacastecan cuisine (see p223) is on offer in the restaurant. www.calaluna.com
TAMARINDO Capitn Suizo h0S \\\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) SW of Plaza Colonial Tel 2653-0075 Fax 2653-0292 Rooms 31
This luxurious beachfront hotel is set in lush gardens that have a free-form swimming pool. The elegant rooms use
plenty of natural stone and hardwood. The open-air restaurant is one of the areas finest (see p234). The hotel is a
member of Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica (see p198). www.hotelcapitansuizo.com
TAMARINDO Sueo del Mar Bed & Breakfast h0Sz \\\\\
Playa Langosta, 0.5 mile (1 km) S of Tamarindo Tel 2653-0284 Fax 2653-0558 Rooms 6
This colonial-era home has been converted into a gracious family-run bed-and-breakfast. Rooms boast timber
beams, terra-cotta tiles, and exquisite furnishings. Delicious breakfasts are served in the garden, which opens
onto the beach. www.sueno-del-mar.com
TAMARINDO Tamarindo Dira h0Sz7 \\\\\
E of Plaza Colonial Tel 2653-0031 Fax 2653-0208 Rooms 182

With a beachfront location in the center of Tamarindo, this upscale resort has a beautiful aesthetic. The restaurant
is set under a tall matapalo tree on Tamarindo beach. The hotel also has two bars and a small casino. Among other
activities, it offers tennis, golf, turtle-watching, and jungle boat rides. www.hoteltamarindodiria.com
TILARN Hotel El Sueo h0 \\
N of the plaza Tel 2695-5347 Fax 2695-5347 Rooms 15

This is a clean, well-run hotel with a friendly ambience and no-frills rooms at bargain prices. It is well placed as a
pleasant stop en route to and from Laguna de Arenal. Rooms, all on the second floor, surround a skylit courtyard.
No meals are offered, but theres a restaurant below.
THE NORTHERN ZONE
BIJAGUA Celeste Mountain Lodge h0 \\\\
3 miles (5 km) NE of Bijagua Tel 2278-6628 Fax 2278-6628 Rooms 18

This French-run ecolodge has a dramatic contemporary design, with open walls angled for shade. Rooms with walls
of louvered glass guarantee vistas of both Tenorio and Miravalles volcanoes. The lodge also has a whirlpool. A special
rickshaw allows handicapped guests to explore mountain trails. www.celestemountainlodge.com
CAO NEGRO Hotel de Campo Cao Negro h0 \\\
NW of Cao Negro village Tel 2471-1012 Fax 2471-1490 Rooms 14

This sportfishing lodge on the edge of Lago Cao Negro has spacious modern cabins set in a former citrus orchard.
In addition to sportfishing packages, the lodge offers horseback tours and nature excursions. A souvenir shop is
located on the grounds, and fishing tackle is available for sale. www.canonegro.com
CHACHAGUA Hotel Bosque de Chachagua h0S \\\\
6 miles (10 km) SE of La Fortuna Tel 2468-1010 Fax 2468-1020 Rooms 31

At the base of a mountain range, the Chachagua Rainforest Lodge is housed in a working cattle ranch located in a
private rainforest reserve. Comfortable and spacious cabins are set amid lovely gardens, and an open-air restaurant
overlooks a corral. www.chachaguarainforesthotel.com
LA FORTUNA Gringo Petes Hostel h \
SE of the plaza Tel 2479-8521 Fax 2479-8521 Rooms 5

This rambling backpackers hostel has colorful decor, and offers both dorms (one open-air) and private rooms.
Guests can use the communal kitchen, and theres a barbecue grill. Facilities include lockers, hammocks and sofas
in a simple lounge, as well as a travel service. www.gringopeteshostel.com
LA VIRGEN DE SARAPIQU Rancho Leona h07 \
On the banks of Ro Sarapiqu Tel 2761-1019 Rooms 5

Appealing to backpackers, this simple, offbeat hotel hangs over the banks of Ro Sarapiqu. Some of the rooms
have bunks. The lodge boasts a small spa. The main activity here is kayaking, with the owner leading kayak trips.
Spanish language courses are also offered. www.rancholeona.com
LA VIRGEN DE SARAPIQU SarapiquS Rainforest Lodge h07 \\\\
N of La Virgen de Sarapiqu Tel 2761-1004 Fax 2761-1415 Rooms 36

Part of a broad-based ecological center (see p155), this classy contemporary hotel boasts architecture inspired by
traditional indigenous building techniques, and corresponding earthy interiors. The fine open-air restaurant and
bar has the rainforest close at hand. www.sarapiquis.org
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Chalet Nicholas h0 \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) W of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2694-4041 Fax 2695-5387 Rooms 3
This bargain-priced, three-story, non-smoking bed-and-breakfast offers intimate rooms. Chalet Nicholas is run by
welcoming hosts, who serve organic meals and arrange horseback rides. Trails lead into an adjacent forest reserve.
www.chaletnicholas.com
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Lake Coter Eco-Lodge h07 \\\
4 miles (6 km) NW of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2289-6060 Fax 2288-0123 Rooms 46

This nature lodge is known for its wide range of activities, including kayaking, canoeing, freshwater fishing, hiking,
horseback riding, and bird-watching. The duplex cabins are preferred over standard rooms, particularly for the
views of Volcn Arenal as well as Arenal and Coter Lakes. www.ecolodgecostarica.com
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Mystica Lodge h07 \\\
10 miles (16 km) W of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2692-1001 Rooms 6

The charming Italian owners tend this intimate hotel with care. Rooms have a romantic aesthetic, and verandas
offer splendid views. Gourmet meals are served at the restaurant, which is dominated by a bakers oven (see p234).
There is also a small souvenir shop. www.mysticaretreat.com
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Villa Decary h0 \\\\
2 miles (3 km) E of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2694-4330 Fax 2694-4330 Rooms 8

Originally a coffee farm, this modern bed-and-breakfast hotel overlooking tranquil Lake Arenal has a pleasing
home-away-from-home feel. It is popular with birders as well as gay travelers. Bird books and binoculars are
available for guests. www.villadecary.com
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Hotel La Mansion Inn h0S7 \\\\\
5 miles (8 km) E of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2692-8018 Fax 2692-8019 Rooms 17

This deluxe option, with a spectacular hillside location, boasts an elegant restaurant. Rooms are graciously
appointed, and have broad verandas with rocking chairs. The suites and deluxe rooms have TVs and minibars.
Horseback rides are included in the rates, and rowboats are available. www.lamansionarenal.com
LAS HORQUETAS Rara Avis 0 \\\
9 miles (14 km) W of Las Horquetas Tel 2764-1111 Fax 2764-1114 Rooms 18
One of Costa Ricas original nature lodges and private rainforest reserves (see p159), Rara Avis is deep in the
rainforest. The rustic accommodations include a bare-bones treetop cabin. Rates are for a two-night stay and
include meals and transfers by tractor-pulled rig. www.rara-avis.com
MONTERREY Leaves and Lizards Arenal Volcano Cabin Retreat h7 \\\\
Monterrey Tel 2478-0023 Rooms 8

Built of ecologically sourced timber, Leaves and Lizards has six deluxe cabins and two houses perched on a hillside
offering views of the volcano. The surrounding land is being reforested, and the friendly owners can arrange birding,
riding, fishing, and hiking tours. Meals are served in the family dining room. www.leavesandlizards.com
MUELLE Tilajari Resort Hotel and Country Club h0Sz7 \\\\
12 miles (19 km) NW of Ciudad Quesada Tel 2462-1212 Fax 2462-1414 Rooms 76
An expansive multifaceted resort on the banks of the Ro San Carlos, Tilajari Resort Hotel and Country Club is
popular for business meetings. The hotel has a wide range of excursions and facilities, including a gift shop, tennis
courts, and botanical and butterfly gardens. www.tilajari.com
PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCN ARENAL Arenal Observatory Lodge h0S7 \\\\
5 miles (8 km) SE of park entrance Tel 2479-1070 Fax 2479-1074 Rooms 35

Spectacularly located on the flanks of Volcn Chato, this modern ecolodge offers dramatic views of Volcn Arenal
from its rooms as well as its pleasant restaurant (see p235). Accommodations range from standard rooms to a four-
bedroom farmhouse. Guided hikes are offered. www.arenalobservatorylodge.com
PN VOLCN ARENAL Montaa de Fuego Resort & Spa h0Sz7 \\\\
4 miles (6 km) W of La Fortuna Tel 2460-1220 Fax 2479-1240 Rooms 50

The comfortable wooden cabins of this luxury hotel have large picture windows opening to the volcano. Trails lace
the lush gardens. Helicopter tours are available, as well as activities such as horseback riding and whitewater rafting.
The resort has a souvenir shop and a full-service spa. www.montanadefuego.com
PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCN ARENAL Arenal Nayara h0Sz7 \\\\\

The fabulous Arenal Nayara hotel combines a hillside location offering outstanding volcano views with luxurious
and colorful furnishings reminiscent of a Balinese theme. Its restaurant is acclaimed, and there is also a full-service
spa. www.arenalnayara.com
PN VOLCN ARENAL The Arenal Springs Resort & Spa h0Sz7 \\\\\

The largest hotel in the region, this resort takes up six levels on a hillside with splendid volcano views. Landscaped
thermal pools and cascades, a casino, spa, multiple restaurants, and a wildcat refuge are among its many draws.
The resort also has villas. www.thespringscostarica.com
PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQU Posada Andrea Cristina h07 \\
0.5 mile (1 km) W of Puerto Viejo Tel 2766-6265 Fax 2766-6265 Rooms 4
This comfortable bed-and-breakfast is set in a forested garden, which draws varieties of wildlife. The lodge is run
to high standards by an active conservationist and his wife, who cooks excellent meals on request. The naturalist
owner takes guests on informative tours to nearby attractions. www.andreacristina.com
PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQU La Selva Biological Station h0 \\\\
2 miles (3 km) S of Puerto Viejo Tel 2766-6565 Fax 2766-6535 Rooms 10

The lodge at this well-known biological station (see p158), operated by the Organization of Tropical Studies (OTS),
offers dormitories as well as private rooms. The rates include set meals at fixed hours. Reservations are essential at
La Selva, which appeals mainly to nature lovers. www.ots.ac.cr
PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQU Selva Verde h0 \\\\\
5 miles (8 km) W of Puerto Viejo Tel 2766-6800 Fax 2766-6011 Rooms 40

A world-renowned ecolodge and private reserve (see p156), Selva Verde specializes in birding and nature hikes.
The adventure activities have educational components, and there are conservation programs for student or teacher
groups. The spacious rooms have canopied verandas, and the room rate includes food. www.selvaverde.com
THE CARIBBEAN
BARRA DEL COLORADO Ro Colorado Lodge 0z \\\\\
W of Barra del Colorado Sur airstrip Tel 2232-4063 Fax 2231-5987 Rooms 18
Built on stilts at the mouth of Ro Colorado, this sportfishing lodge offers well-equipped fiberglass fishing boats
with knowledgeable guides and a well-stocked tackle shop. Among its other attractions are a small zoo, games
room, and boat tours into the nearby rainforest. www.riocoloradolodge.com
BARRA DEL COLORADO Silver King Lodge 0S \\\\\
W of Barra del Colorado Sur airstrip Tel 2711-0708 Fax 2711-0708 Rooms 10
Adjoining Ro Colorado Lodge and rising over a swampy riverfront, this all-wood sportfishing lodge has spacious
cabins linked by boardwalks. Several fishing packages are on offer. The lodge is closed mid-June through August,
and also from mid-November through December. www.silverkinglodge.net
CAHUITA Alby Lodge h \\
SE of bus stop and plaza Tel 2755-0031 Fax 2755-0031 Rooms 4

Run by an Austrian couple, the lodge is situated amid lawns close to the beach. It features charming thatched and
stilt-legged cabins, spaced well apart for privacy. Each small, simply appointed cabin has a hammock, plus mosquito
nets over the bed. Guests can make use of a communal kitchen. www.albylodge.com
CAHUITA El Encanto Bed & Breakfast Inn h07 \\\
Playa Negra, 0.5 mile (1 km) N of Cahuita village Tel 2755-0113 Fax 2755-0432 Rooms 7
Set in a serene garden infused with a Buddhist aesthetic, this is a delightful family-run hotel. Tasteful fabrics and
art pieces grace the rooms, which vary in size. The hotel organizes several activities such as kayak tours, horseback
riding, snorkeling, scuba diving, and dolphin-watching. www.elencantobedandbreakfast.com
CAHUITA Kelly Creek Cabins & Restaurant h0 \\\
E of bus stop, next to Kelly Creek ranger station Tel 2755-0007 Rooms 4
Located adjacent to the entrance of Parque Nacional Cahuita, this Spanish-run beachfront hotel has spacious yet
sparsely furnished wooden cabins with broad verandas. The open-air restaurant serves Spanish fare; an excellent
barbecue is also available. www.hotelkellycreek.com
CAHUITA La Diosa h0Sz7 \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) N of Cahuita village Tel 2755-0055 Fax 2755-0321 Rooms 10
An inviting palm-shaded beachfront location is a major draw to this charming and colorful hotel, whose owner
offers yoga classes. Rooms are cozy, and two of the cabins even boast whirlpool tubs.
www.hotelladiosa.net
CAHUITA Magellan Inn h0Sz \\\
Playa Negra, 3 miles (5 km) N of Cahuita village Tel 2755-0035 Fax 2755-0035 Rooms 6
The exquisite grounds are the top draw at this family-run hotel at the far north end of Cahuita. All rooms have
verandas overlooking a sunken pool and the beautiful gardens with pool. The clean beaches of Cahuita are within
walking distance. www.magellaninn.com
GUPILES Casa Ro Blanco Ecolodge h0 \\\
Ro Blanco, 4 miles (6 km) W of Gupiles Tel 2710-4124 Fax 2710-4124 Rooms 6

This delightful riverside bed-and-breakfast at the edge of the forest is run by a charming South African couple.
Cabins boast rich and calming decor. It offers nature trails and splendid wildlife viewing over 300 species of birds
have been recorded in the surrounding forests. www.casarioblanco.com
PUERTO LIMN Hotel Park h0z \\\
Calle 1 and Ave 3 Tel 2758-3476 Fax 2758-4364 Rooms 32

This clean, well-run hotel has one of the towns best restaurants plus secure parking (a requirement in this town).
Although fairly simple, the rooms are adequate. Its worth paying extra for an oceanfront room with balcony. Locals
are drawn to the bar. parkhotellimon@ice.co.cr
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Rockings Js h0 \\
E of the Puerto Viejo bus stop, on the road to Manzanillo Tel 2750-0657 Rooms 10
This is a well-run and popular surfers hostel with a choice of accommodations, including camping, canopied
hammocks, dorms, and private rooms. The ambience is lively and colorful, with ceramic murals throughout.
Surf boards and bicycles can be rented. www.rockingjs.com
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Casa Verde Lodge hS7 \\\
SE of the Puerto Viejo bus stop Tel 2750-0015 Fax 2750-0047 Rooms 13
Superbly run by a Swiss owner, this clinically clean hotel with spacious rooms and house rentals offers a solid
budget-priced bargain. It boasts a gift store and poison-dart frog display, and also arranges tours. Several eateries
serving excellent local and international cuisine are just a few blocks away. www.cabinascasaverde.com
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA La Costa de Papito h7 \\\
Playa Cocles, 1 mile (1.6 km) E of Puerto Viejo Tel 2750-0080 Fax 2750-0704 Rooms 10
Located in front of the white expanse of Playa Cocles and surrounded by tropical gardens on the edge of a forest,
this hotel has spacious hardwood cabins with endearing jungly decor, huge verandas, and attached baths. Breakfast
is served on the verandas or in the main house. www.lacostadepapito.com
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Shawandha Lodge h07 \\\\
Playa Chiquita, 3 miles (5 km) E of Puerto Viejo Tel 2750-0018 Fax 2750-0037 Rooms 11
Gracious contemporary decor in spacious thatched cabins highlight this romantic French-run resort, which
extends up to the rainforest. The open-air restaurant is acclaimed for its French-inspired cuisine (see p236).
www.shawandhalodge.com
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Camelen Boutique Resort h0Sz7 \\\\\
Playa Cocles, 1.5 miles (2.5 km) S of Puerto Viejo Tel 2750-0501 Fax 2750-0501 Rooms 23
The hippest hotel on the Caribbean coast, this chic deluxe resort opened in 2009. Guest rooms with state-of-the-
art amenities are aglow with whites highlighted by colorful pillows. The Camelon has a spa and a trendy bar-
restaurant. www.lecameleonhotel.com
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Samasati Nature Retreat h0 \\\\\
Hone Creek, 2 miles (3 km) W of Puerto Viejo Tel 2756-8015 Fax 2224-5032 Rooms 18
Nestled high in forested hills, this rustic hotel specializes in yoga and holistic practices. Choose from simple cabins
with shared bathrooms, bungalows, or self-contained two-story houses. Wildlife viewing is fabulous. A 4WD is
required to get there. www.samasati.com
SELVA BANANITO RESERVE Selva Bananito Lodge h0 \\\\\
16 miles (26 km) SW of Puerto Limn Tel 2253-8118 Fax 2280-0820 Rooms 11
Close to Reserva Biolgica Hitoy-Cerere, this rustic rainforest lodge has stilt-legged cabins, splendid for nature
viewing and active adventures. Basic meals, included in rates, are served family style. A 4WD is essential for access.
www.selvabananito.com
TORTUGUERO Casa Marbella B&B z7 \\
100 yards (100 m) N of the public dock Tel 2709-8011 Fax 2709-8094 Rooms 5
The Canadian owner of this simple yet well-maintained bed-and-breakfast lodge overlooking the lagoon is
knowledgeable about the entire region and offers a selection of interesting tours. Guests enjoy full use of a
kitchen and TV lounge. http://casamarbella.tripod.com
TORTUGUERO Miss Junies 0 \\
N of public dock, Tortuguero village Tel 2709-8102 Rooms 12

A simple two-story hotel run by a delightful hostess who serves Caribbean soul food (see p236). Set close to
the lagoon, the rooms have wicker furnishings, ceramic floors, shuttered windows with screens, and ceiling fans.
Each has hot water in private bathrooms. www.iguanaverdetours.com
TORTUGUERO Tortuga Lodge & Gardens 0S \\\\
3 miles (5 km) N of Tortuguero village Tel 2257-0766 Fax 2257-1665 Rooms 27

Spacious rooms are on offer at this well-run eco- and sportfishing lodge with lush grounds. Top-class nature guides
are on hand to take guests on turtle- or other wildlife-watching trips. It has gourmet dining and a romantic open-air
lounge bar. Various packages are available. www.costaricaexpeditions.com
TORTUGUERO Laguna Lodge 0S7 \\\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) N of Tortuguero village Tel 2709-8082 Fax 2709-8081 Rooms 80
This riverside ecolodge specializing in nature excursions has butterfly and botanical gardens, and an atmospheric
restaurant overhanging the waters. Package rates include transfers, buffet meals, and nature tours. Fishing trips
with experienced guides are available on request. www.lagunatortuguero.com
THE SOUTHERN ZONE
BAHA DRAKE Corcovado Adventures Tent Camp 0 \\\
Playa Caletas, 3 miles (5 km) S of Agujitas Tel 8384-1679 Rooms 10

Close to Parque Nacional Corcovado, this beachfront camp exudes a safari-style jungle atmosphere. Bathrooms
are shared, and guests eat in a simple restaurant under a thatched roof. Meals are included in the room rate.
Horseback rides are a popular activity. www.corcovado.com
BAHA DRAKE Finca Maresia hz \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) E of Agujitas Tel 8332-6730 Rooms 7

A charming Spanish couple runs this modernist hotel surrounded by luxuriant forest on the road to Los Patos. Guests
can choose from various lodging options, including a dorm and individual cabins with Japanese-style screened sliding
doors that look onto verandas. www.fincamaresia.com
BAHA DRAKE Jinetes de Osa 0 \\\\
S of Agujitas Tel 2231-5806 Fax 2231-5806 Rooms 9

Specializing in scuba diving, this hotel stands amid rainforest on the beach. The rooms, although simple, are clean
and comfortable. Rates include meals in an open-air restaurant, and fresh bread and fresh produce supplement the
hotels Mexican and Italian cuisine. www.costaricadiving.com
BAHA DRAKE Aguila de Osa Inn 0 \\\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) S of Agujitas Tel 2296-2190 Fax 2232-7722 Rooms 13

Tucked away in a canyon at the mouth of Ro Agujitas, this lodge specializes in scuba diving and sportfishing.
Spacious yet simply furnished rooms stairstep a steep hillside. Included in the room rate are quality meals served
at the open-air restaurant (see p236). www.aguiladeosainn.com
BAHA DRAKE La Paloma Lodge 0S \\\\\
Playa Cocalito, 1 mile (1.6 km) S of Agujitas Tel 2293-7502 Fax 2239-0954 Rooms 11
La Paloma is a deluxe family-run clifftop hotel set amidst lush grounds with dramatic sunset views. The spacious
and cozy cabins have wide balconies with hammocks; villas are also available. A range of activities are offered,
including night hikes, all of which are covered by the room rate. www.lapalomalodge.com
CABO MATAPALO Bosque del Cabo h0S \\\\\
12 miles (19 km) S of Puerto Jimnez Tel 2735-5206 Fax 2735-5206 Rooms 12
This family-run clifftop hotel combines simplicity with luxury. The surrounding forest abounds in wildlife, and scarlet
macaws nest on the property. The open-air, solar-powered restaurant serves delicious food, which is included in the
room rate. Yoga, a canopy tour, and various excursions are on offer. www.bosquedelcabo.com
CABO MATAPALO Lapa Ros h0S \\\\\
9 miles (14 km) S of Puerto Jimnez Tel 2735-5130 Fax 2735-5179 Rooms 16
Set in a private nature reserve, this deluxe jungle lodge is superb for birding and wildlife viewing. The lodge offers
breathtaking ocean vistas and the airy and open bamboo bungalows have great romantic appeal. The gourmet
restaurant (see p236) is set beneath a palenque (soaring circular thatched cover). www.laparios.com
CARATE Lookout Inn h0S \\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) E of Carate Tel 2735-5431 Fax 2735-5043 Rooms 18

This three-story hotel has a splendid hillside location good for spotting scarlet macaws. A wooden staircase takes
guests up the mountainside to spectacular ocean views. Lodgings include hotel rooms, beach bungalows, and jungle
cabins. A range of activities is offered. Room rates include meals. www.lookout-inn.com
CARATE Luna Lodge h0S \\\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) N of Carate Tel 8380-5036 Rooms 15

This peaceful rainforest lodge offers guests a choice of airy thatched cabins and safari-style tents. A traditional,
conical, thatched restaurant-bar enjoys a spectacular setting. Meals are included in the rates. A variety of tours
are available. A 4WD is required for access. www.lunalodge.com
CIUDAD NEILY Hotel Andrea h0z \\
23 miles (37 km) E of Golfito Tel 2783-3784 Fax 2783-1057 Rooms 45

Located in the heart of Ciudad Neily, this modern Colonial-style hotel has comfortable rooms and a fine
restaurant (see p236). The room rates are a bargain considering the amenities the hotel offers.
elhotelandrea@hotmail.com
DOMINICAL Cabinas San Clemente h0 \\
W from the soccer field Tel 2787-0026 Fax 2787-0055 Rooms 12

This is a friendly hostel aimed at surfers, located just a few steps away from the beach. Some rooms have air-
conditioning and hot water, and some have wraparound verandas. Fully furnished houses are also offered. Avoid the
barebones budget rooms. The hostels popular bar and grill (see p236) is a short walk away.
DOMINICAL Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Bar h07 \\\
2 miles (3 km) N of Dominical Tel 2787-0003 Fax 2787-0057 Rooms 6

This wildlife refuge (see p182) has modestly furnished cabins, each with a beautiful view of the forest and located
within a short walk of the beach. A wide selection of activities is available, from night tours in the jungle to bird-
watching hikes. www.haciendabaru.com
DOMINICAL Hotel Roca Verde h0Sz7 \\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) S of Dominical Tel 2787-0036 Fax 2787-0013 Rooms 10

The highlights of this small hotel near the beach are the charming cabinas (cottages) and an open and airy bar
and restaurant with frequent live music, very popular with the surf crowd. Kayaking, canopy tours, sportfishing,
and biking are on offer. www.rocaverde.net
DOMINICAL Cascadas Farallas hz \\\\\
Platanillo, 5 miles (8 km) E of Dominical Tel 2787-8378 Fax 2787-8378 Rooms 3

This deluxe, family-run riverside lodge at the edge of dense forest seamlessly blends into nature. Inspired by Balinese
themes, it exudes a Zen-like peace. Rivestones and bamboo feature prominently in the design, and the three two-
bedroom suites have balconies fronting the forest. www.waterfallvillas.com
DOMINICAL Cua del Angel h0Sz7 \\\\\
5 miles (8 km) S of Dominical Tel 2787-8012 Fax 2787-8015 (ext. 304) Rooms 16
A gracious, Italian-themed hotel that is a member of the Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa Rica, this colorful
property offers a varied selection of rooms and villas. The elegant restaurant is first-rate. Cua del Angel also
has a spa, and sportfishing is a specialty. www.cunadelangel.com
ESCALERAS Bella Vista Lodge h0 \\\
4 miles (6 km) SE of Dominical Tel 2772-3289 Rooms 5

Bella Vista is a horse ranch perched on a dramatic mountaintop. The wooden cabins have bathrooms and porches
with hammocks. The rooms in the lodge have private bathrooms, and share other facilities. Horseback rides are
available. www.bellavistalodge.com
GOLFITO Hotel Centro Turstico Samoa h0Sz7 \\\
N of Pueblo Civl Tel 2775-0233 Fax 2775-0573 Rooms 14

This clean and modestly furnished waterfront hotel has spacious rooms. The hotel marina has facilities for sailboats
and sportfishing boats. The lively bar and restaurant have excellent views of the marina and the surrounding gulf
(see p237). The hotel also contains the Museo Marino (see p192). www.samoadelsur.com
GOLFITO Banana Bay Marina h0z7 \\\\
S of the plaza Tel 2775-0838 Fax 2775-0735 Rooms 4

Located on the edge of tropical rainforest, Banana Bay Marina is a small contemporary hotel with delightful decor.
Its quiet, comfortable rooms look out on to the marina and have private bathrooms. The hotel also offers Internet
access. www.bananabaymarina.com
GOLFITO Casa Roland Marina Resort h0Sz7 \\\\\
Zona Americana Tel 2775-0180 Rooms 53

Although located inland, at a considerable distance from a marina, this hotel bills itself as a sportfishing resort.
Festooned throughout with contemporary art, it also has a fine (albeit windowless) restaurant. Rooms, which
come in three different types, are rather on the gloomy side. www.fishingmarinaresort.com
LAS CRUCES Las Cruces Biological Station h07 \\\\
4 miles (6 km) S of San Vito Tel 2524-0628 Fax 2524-0629 Rooms 12

This research center (see p179) has spacious and airy wooden cabins overlooking lush forest. All cabins have
balconies and private baths. There are refectory-style meals in a dining room with views of the Talamanca
Mountains. Guided nature hikes are on offer. Reservations are essential. www.ots.ac.cr
OJOCHAL Finca Bavaria h0S7 \\\
0.5 mile (1 km) E of Playa Ballena Tel 8355-4465 Rooms 5

This German-run property is set in hilltop gardens. The spacious rooms have bamboo decor and a romantic
aesthetic. Ocean views can be enjoyed from the terraces. There are nature trails for guests who wish to enjoy the
solitude of the surroundings. www.finca-bavaria.de
OJOCHAL Villas Gaia h0S7 \\\
Playa Tortuga, 0.5 mile (1 km) W of Ojochal Tel 2786-5044 Fax 2786-5004 Rooms 14
Providing easy access to Playa Tortuga and the Terraba-Sierpe mangrove ecosystem, this colorful property offers
scuba diving and other activities, plus a gourmet restaurant (see p237). The hilltop swimming pool offers spectacular
views of ocean sunsets. www.villasgaia.com
OJOCHAL The Lookout at Turtle Beach h0S \\\\\
Playa Tortuga, 0.5 mile (1 km) W of Ojochal Tel 2786-5074 Rooms 10

This luxury option is set in lovely landscaped hilltop grounds. There is delightful pastel decor in the casitas (cottages),
which have private patios and splendid views. Delicious breakfasts are included in the price, and a range of activities
is available. www.hotelcostarica.com
PARQUE INTERNACIONAL LA AMISTAD Finca Anael h0 \\
Reserva Biolgica Durika, 11 miles (18 km) E of Buenos Aires Tel 2730-0657 Fax 2730-0657 Rooms 9
A simple lifestyle is the hallmark of this ecologically sustainable mountain farm. Accommodation is in rustic cabins,
with meals being included in the room rates. The finca (farm) can arrange guided nature hikes. A 4WD is required
for access, but the daunting drive is best left to jeep-taxis. www.durika.org
PARQUE INTERNACIONAL LA AMISTAD La Amistad Lodge h0 \\\\
Las Mellizas, 17 miles (27 km) NE of San Vito Tel 2228-8671 Fax 2289-7858 Rooms 10
This alpine coffee farm adjoining La Amistad is a good base for exploring the reserve. The rooms and cabins,
although simple, are comfortable. The lodge specializes in nature hikes and horseback riding, including to two
high-mountain camps. It can be reached only by a 4WD. www.laamistad.com
PAVONES Cabinas La Ponderosa h0S7 \\\
2 miles (3 km) S of Pavones, on the road to Punta Banco Tel 2776-2076 Rooms 6
This is a popular beachfront surfers hostel with comfortable, casual cabins. All cabins have private bathrooms,
outdoor sitting area, and either fans or air-conditioning; there are also villas and suites. Volleyball, basketball,
horseback rides, and forest trails are also available. www.laponderosapavones.com
PAVONES Casa Siempre Domingo Bed & Breakfast h0Sz \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) S of Pavones Tel 8820-4709 Rooms 4

A bargain-priced family-run bed-and-breakfast set in lush gardens. The elevation and open interiors allow for
constant breezes and the tropical decor adds to the ambience. Miles of secluded beaches lend themselves to quiet
walks, and trails lead into rainforest. www.casa-domingo.com
PAVONES Tiskita Lodge h0S \\\\\
Punta Banco, 3 miles (5 km) S of Pavones Tel 2296-8125 Fax 2296-8133 Rooms 16
This rustic hilltop ecolodge is part of a fruit farm and forest reserve fabulous for viewing wildlife. Rainforest
bathrooms are made of river stones. Meals, served family-style in the open-air farmstead, and guided nature hikes
are included. Closed mid-September to mid-October. www.tiskita-lodge.co.cr
PIEDRAS BLANCAS Agua Dulce Lodge & Resort 0 \\\\\
Playa Cativo, 9 miles (14 km) W of Golfito Tel 2735-5062 Rooms 2

Backed by pristine rainforest, this intimate two-story beachfront ecolodge is constructed of native hardwoods and
furnished with rattan and wicker pieces. Accommodation is in the beach house and a simply appointed cabin, and
campers can pitch tents on the lawns. Access is by boat only. www.fincasaladero.com
PIEDRAS BLANCAS Esquinas Rainforest Lodge h0S \\\\\
Las Gambas, 6 miles (10 km) NE of Golfito Tel 2741-8001 Fax 2741-8001 Rooms 14
Adjoining Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas, this pleasant community-run ecolodge has comfortable rooms with
private bathrooms and terraces. Guided nature hikes, Golfo Dulce kayak tours, and other activities are offered.
The rates include meals made from the hotels own fresh produce. www.esquinaslodge.com
PIEDRAS BLANCAS Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge 0 \\\\\
Playa Nicuesa, 9 miles (14 km) NW of Golfito Tel 2258-8250 Rooms 8

This is an atmospheric ecolodge nestled between ocean and rainforest reserve, adjoining Piedras Blancas. All rooms
have canopied beds and garden showers. Electricity is provided by solar power. Rates include meals. Access is only
by boat a 20-minute journey from Golfito. www.nicuesalodge.com
PLAYA PLATANARES Iguana Lodge h0 \\\\\
2 miles (3 km) E of Puerto Jimnez Tel 8848-0752 Fax 2735-5436 Rooms 14

This lovely property has luxurious rooms with travertine-clad bathrooms, plus bamboo-and-log bungalows; some
have garden showers. A beachfront restaurant has live music on Fridays. The lodge also has a Japanese bathhouse.
www.iguanalodge.com
PLAYA SAN JOSECITO Casa Corcovado Jungle Lodge 0S \\\\\
8 miles (13 km) S of Baha Drake Tel 2256-3181 Fax 2256-7409 Rooms 14
Close to the northern border of Corcovado, this luxurious jungle-themed hotel has thatched cabins with exquisite
decor. Excursions and gourmet meals are offered. Access is solely by boat. Closed September to mid-November.
www.casacorcovado.com
PUERTO JIMNEZ Cabinas Jimnez z7 \\\
100 yards (100 m) N of the soccer field Tel 2735-5090 Rooms 10

Under a new US owner, this once-mediocre shorefront property now offers the nicest accommodations in town.
Comfortable and delightfully furnished, the rooms open onto verandas with bay vistas. Several restaurants are a
short walk away. A variety of tours can be arranged. www.cabinasjimenez.com
RINCN Suital Lodge h0 \\\
4 miles (6 km) NE of Rincn Tel 8826-0342 Fax 8826-0342 Rooms 3

This is a rustic wooden lodge with individual stilt-legged cabins set in a forest clearing. All have private bathrooms
and balconies. Close by are about 3 miles (5 km) of forest trails and a peaceful beach. Other activities include
kayaking on Ro Esquinas and horseback riding. www.suital.com
SAN GERARDO DE RIVAS Cabinas Roca Dura 0 \
9 miles (14 km) NE of San Isidro Tel 2742-5071 Rooms 9

Roca Dura is a backpackers delight. Built into the rock-face and named accordingly, the hotel has basic and
draughty yet distinctive rooms. The bedrock makes up one of the walls at the entrance, as well as in some of
the bedrooms. The hotel also has a simple restaurant.
SAN GERARDO DE RIVAS Ro Chirrip Mountain Retreat B&B h0S \\\
8 miles (13 km) NE of San Isidro Tel 2742-5109 Rooms 8

A fabulous riverside location, rich decor, and tasteful furnishings combine to make this bargain-priced bed-and-
breakfast an irresistible option. All rooms have private baths and a deck overlooking the river. There are also some
roofed camping platforms for the more adventurous, and a yoga dojo. www.riochirripo.com
SAN ISIDRO DE EL GENERAL Rancho La Botija h0S7 \\\
4 miles (6 km) NE of San Isidro de El General Tel 2770-2146 Fax 2770-2146 Rooms 11
This charming family-run hotel is set within coffee plantations and orchards. The land falls within an archeological
zone, and a Tour of the Trails is offered. A 19th-century trapiche (sugarcane press) dominates the atmospheric
restaurant. There is also an observatory. www.rancholabotija.com
SIERPE Veragua River Lodge h07 \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) NE of Sierpe Tel 2788-1460 Fax 2786-1460 Rooms 7

Veragua River Lodge is a peaceful and isolated riverside hotel with whimsical charm. The Italian artist owner
has converted the two-story house into an intimate hotel with delightful tropical decor. All the rooms are
comfortable and spacious. www.hotelveragua.com
UVITA Toucan Hotel h7 \
E of Hwy 34, Central Uvita Tel 2743-8140 Rooms 10

This is a well-run budget hostel near Parque Nacional Marino Ballena. Some of the rooms have private baths and
air-conditioning, the others share facilities. Guests have the use of a communal kitchen, laundry, and TV room.
Free Internet and Wi-Fi are available, as are live music and open-air films. www.tucanhotel.com
UVITA Las Terrazas de Ballena h0Sz \\\\\
0.75 mile (1 km) NE of Uvita Tel 2743-8034 Rooms 3

Perched on the forested hillside with views along the Costa Ballena, this intimate hotel provides accommodation
in three thatched, stone-walled cabins with huge balconies. The Balinese-style restaurant is the best for miles (see
p237). A 4WD is required for access. www.terrazasdeballena.com
ZANCUDO Cabinas Sol y Mar h0 \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) S of Zancudo village Tel 2776-0014 Rooms 5

This charming American-run hotel is always abuzz with karaoke, beach golf, and other activities. The restaurant
specializes in Californian cuisine. The rooms are enlivened by Guatemalan fabrics. Camping is permitted, and a
two-bedroom house can also be rented. Closed October. www.zancudo.com
ZANCUDO Oceano 0Sz \\\
400 yards (400 m) S of Zancudo village Tel 2776-0921 Rooms 2

This small, simple hotel is run by a charming Canadian couple who lavish attention on their guests. Although
simple, the two rooms feature such thoughtful touches as flashlights and umbrellas. The open-air restaurant is
the best around (see p237). Guests get free use of bicycles and Internet. www.oceanocabinas.com
ZANCUDO The Zancudo Lodge h0Sz7 \\\\
N of Zancudo village Tel 2776-0008 Fax 2776-0011 Rooms 20

This highly respected sportfishing lodge enjoys a windswept oceanfront setting. The rooms are comfortable and
well tended, and there are a swimming pool and large hot tub close to the ocean. The lodge provides tackle and
lure for anglers, as well as fly rods. www.zancudolodge.com
WHERE TO EAT
R emarkably cosmopolitan, the
restaurants in San Jos and
tourist enclaves offer a wealth
of dining options. These span the
globe, from Peruvian to Indian,
dishes are infused with coconut milk
and spices. Hot spices are rarely used
elsewhere in Costa Rica. Small snack
shops, called sodas, are found
throughout the country, as are
with French and Italian cuisine fast-food chain outlets, both US
being well represented. In the and local. Roadside fruit stalls
countryside, food is based are ubiquitous, with fresh fruits
on traditional staples rice and being an important part of the local
beans, accompanied by pork or A chef at San Joss diet (see p222). Some vegetar-
chicken and tropical vegetables. Hotel Grano de Oro ian restaurants exist in San
Regional variations are preva- Jos and other major cities, and
lent, especially along the nations east- most other establishments will feature
ern seaboard, where Afro-Caribbean at least one vegetarian dish.
often identified by their Wild prices. Musmanni is a nation-

West-style swing doors wide panadera (bakery) chain
where bocas (see p222) are selling freshly baked breads,
served. These bars can be confectionery, and sand-
quite rough and women will wiches. Mexican fare is the
generally not feel comfortable specialty of Antojitos, which
in these places. Visitors should has outlets around San Jos.
stick to recommended bars in Bagelmans features bagels,
urban areas. Hotel staff can sandwiches, and breakfast
advise you of places to avoid. specials, while Pops is the
local ice cream chain.
CHAIN RESTAURANTS
LOCAL EATING HABITS
All the principal American
The dining room at the Restaurant fast-food chains are conspic- For the most part, Ticos
Grano de Oro (see p226), San Jos uous in Costa Rica, including (Costa Ricans) follow North
Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, American eating habits, with
RESTAURANTS AND BARS and McDonalds. There are some differences. The typical
also several homegrown desayuno (breakfast) consists
The capital city offers by far companies, such as Burgu and of gallo pinto (see p222)
the greatest choice of places Rosti Pollo, which compete served with fresh fruit juice
to eat, with a variety of with their US counterparts. and milky coffee. Males often
cuisines for every budget The main cities have a good take a shot of whisky with
and taste. Many of the finest selection of chain cafs, which their breakfast. Extended
gourmet restaurants are in serve light snacks and some- families usually come together
deluxe hotels. There are a times inexpensive buffets. An on weekends for brunch.
number of internationally excellent option is Spoons, Many businesses close at
renowned eateries presided found in larger cities in the noon for almuerzo (lunch),
over by award-winning chefs. Central Highlands it offers which might last as long as
Most of these specialize in a wide range of sandwiches, 2 hours. The merienda (mid-
conventional international salads, and hot meals at low afternoon coffee break) is still
cuisine. Hotels usually have
their own restaurants, which
in wilderness areas may be
the only places to eat in the
vicinity. In hospedajes (B&Bs),
the owners may be willing to
prepare meals for an extra
fee. The cheapest places to
eat local dishes are the
family-run sodas, small snack
counters serving fixed-price
menus and casados (set
lunches, often referred to as
plato del da, plato ejecutivo,
or comida corrida).
Working-class males visit
cantinas neighborhood bars A bar in the village of Ojochal, near Dominical
W H E R E T O E A T 221
products are pasteurized and

are no cause for concern. Take
care to avoid undercooked
shellfish, meat, and fish.
CHILDREN
Costa Ricans love children

and most restaurants welcome
them. High-chairs are usually
available, and many restau-
rants offer child portions;
some even have special kids
menus. Many eating places,
especially fast-food outlets
El Sano Banano Village Restaurant & Caf (see p230), Montezuma and rural roadside cafs,
have childrens playgrounds.
popular. Most restaurants and American Express; few
close by 11pm, as the local places take Diners Club or ALCOHOL
preference is for early dining. travelers checks.
Ticos are leisurely in their Restaurants are usually
dining, and often linger at FOOD HYGIENE licensed to sell beers and
the table after finishing their spirits, including guaro, the
meal, which can be frustrating Food is normally of a high popular alcohol of choice.
if the restaurant is full. Many standard nationwide, and The more elegant restaurants
eateries close on Sunday. tap water in most regions is serve a variety of international
Ticos rarely invite friends trustworthy. If in any doubt, wines, although outside the
and acquaintances to dine at it is worth taking Central Highlands
home, and prefer to extend precautions by quality often suffers
invitations to restaurants. drinking only due to poor
They seldom arrive at an bottled water, storage. Sale of
appointed hour, except for fruit juices, or alcohol is not
important businesses occa- processed drinks. permitted during
sions, and it is considered Bottled water is sold election periods
rude to arrive on time if in all restaurants, and three days
invited for cena (dinner) in hotels, and super- (ThursdaySatur-
a private home. markets. In restau- day) preceding
rants and bars, order Easter; nonetheless,
PAYING AND TIPPING drinks without ice Cocktail menu, Rickys Ticos stock up in
(sin hielo). Bar, Cahuita advance, and the
Fixed-price menus such as Salads, vegetables, days before elec-
casados normally offer better and fruits pose little problem, tions see heavy drinking.
value than their la carte except in the Caribbean,
equivalents. At sodas, it is Puntarenas, and Golfito, SMOKING
possible to have a wholesome where hygiene can be ques-
cooked meal for around 800 tionable. To play safe, you Smoking is popular in Costa
colones. In elegant restaurants, may wish to avoid salads and Rica, and it is common for
a three-course dinner with uncooked vegetables, and to diners to light up between or
wine might cost around peel all fruits, especially those even during courses. Many
13,000 colones per person. bought from open-air markets restaurants now have non-
Sodas have no tax in other and urban fruit stalls. Across smoking sections, but these
places, the prices shown on the nation, milk, and dairy are rarely in separate rooms.
menus usually include a 13
percent sales tax. An additional
10 percent service charge
is often automatically added
to your bill. Feel free to
challenge this charge if service
has been poor, and tip extra
only if you have been well
attended to.
Credit cards are accepted
by most restaurants in cities
and major resorts, but expect
to pay in cash in rural areas,
small restaurants, and sodas.
VISA is the widely accepted
card, followed by MasterCard The kitchen of the Iguana Lodge, Playa Platanares (see p218)
The Flavors of Costa Rica

At Costa Ricas ferias de agricultores (farmers
markets), stalls are piled with glistening fruit,
including exotics such as guayaba, maraon,
and papaya. Tomatoes, peppers, and squash
add their own bouquets and hues, as does a
potpourri of herbs and spices. Pasture-fed cattle
provide beef and fresh milk, while poultry
roams free until ready for the pot. The warm
waters off Costa Ricas shores deliver fresh fish
and crustaceans glistening with brine. Caribbean Ripe
and Creole are the main culinary styles. papayas
region. The seas fresh mouth-searing peppers and

bounty, such as shrimp and grilled over coals.
lobster, finds its way into The milk of the versatile
curries and stews enlivened coconut forms a base ingre-
with chilies, ginger, and dient for cooking and in
Scotch bonnet peppers. In cocktails, while providing
Tortuguero, green turtle has invigorating refreshment
long been a favorite meat, when drunk fresh from the
popularly used in stews, shell. Local fruits such as
along with mackerel. Pargo citrus, papaya, and guava
(red snapper) is often are jellied and candied with
jerked spiced up with sugar, coconut, and cocoa.
Mackerel Mahimahi
One of the many sodas (foodstalls)

found all over Costa Rica
CARIBBEAN CUISINE
Making the most of local

Lobster
spices, cuisine along Costa
Ricas Atlantic seaboard bears
the zesty imprimatur of Shrimps
Jamaica, thanks to the many Red snapper
islanders who settled in the A selection of fresh seafood available in Costa Rica
COSTA RICAN DISHES AND SPECIALTIES

Gallo pinto (fried rice and black beans) is the dish
most associated with Costa Rica. It is commonly
served as breakfast with scrambled eggs
and slabs of local Monteverde cheese.
At lunch it becomes arroz con pollo, with
lightly seasoned stewed chicken or pork.
This forms the basis of casados (set meals),
served with vegetables such as carrots,
Scotch bonnet yucca, cabbage, onions, pltanos (fried
peppers plantain), and a simple salad of lettuce,
tomatoes, and hearts of palm. Rice dishes
are enlivened by a splash of Salsa Lizano, a mildly spicy
sauce made of vegetables. Countryfolk still favor traditional
stews such as sopa de mondongo, made from tripe and Ceviche is raw chunks of white
vegetables, and a spicy meatball soup called sopa de fish marinated in citrus juice
albondigas, from Guanacaste. Main meals are often pre- with garlic, onion, and red
ceded by bocas, tasty tidbits such as tortillas with cheese. and green peppers, served on
Turtle eggs on offer may have been illegally harvested. crackers or lettuce leaves.
fish, such as the flavorful

dorado or mahimahi. Playa
Flamingo, Playas del Coco,
and Tamarindo are the main
centers for sportfishing, while
the port town of Puntarenas
has a large shrimping and
commercial fishing fleet.
ON THE MENU
Arreglados (nationwide).
Puff pastries filled with
cheeses and/or meats.
Akee and codfish (Caribbean).
Akee, blended with salted cod-
Well-stocked grocery store in San Jos fish and served with callaloo
(similar to spinach) and fried
GUANACASTECAN graze the pastures, producing dumplings called Johnny Cakes.
SPECIALTIES highly prized steaks and Cajetas (nationwide). A thick,
ground beef. The seas off nougat-like dessert made of
From the heartland of Nicoya are famous for game coconut milk, sugar, orange
comida criolla (Creole peel, and other fruits.
cuisine), Guanacastecan
Chorreadas (Guanacaste).
fare revolves around maz Large corn tortillas served
(sweet corn), introduced like pancakes and topped
in pre-Columbian times with natilla (sour cream).
by indigenous peoples.
Succulent yellow sweet corn Empanadas (nationwide).
is eaten as a vegetable Turnover pastries filled with
minced meat, potatoes, and
cooked, boiled, or grilled onions, or cheese and beans.
and, following ancient
recipes, is ground into flour Pan bon (Caribbean). Dark
to form the base for tortilla bread spiced with nutmeg and
and tamale dough. Arroz sweetened with caramelized
(rice) was brought by the sugar and candied fruits.
Spanish from Asia. Today, Rundown (Caribbean).
it is a major crop in the low- Mackerel simmered in coconut
lands and forms the chief milk with vegetables.
accompaniment to the
nations cuisine, usually Tamales (nationwide).
Steamed corn-dough pastries
served alongside black stuffed with minced beef and
beans, also grown in the Vegetables at a feria de wrapped in banana leaves.
lowlands. Brahma cattle agricultores (farmers market)
Filete de pescado grill, grilled Olla de carne, a dish from Tres leches comprises layers
fillet of corvina (sea bass), is Guanacaste, is a meat-and- of dense sponge cake soaked
traditionally served with ajo vegetable stew with pumpkin- in condensed milk, evapo-
(buttered garlic), rice, and like chayote, corn, plantain, rated milk, and cream, and
mixed vegetables. potatoes, and yuca. topped with whipped cream.
Choosing a Restaurant PRICE CATEGORIES

For a three-course meal for one
(excluding wine), including tax and
The restaurants in this guide have been selected, as far service:
as possible, for the quality of the food and atmosphere. \ Under $10
However, in some parts of Costa Rica there are few \\ $1015
\\\ $1520
restaurants that can be recommended. In such cases, \\\\ $2030
places have been suggested that offer at least good \\\\\ Over $30
value. For map references for San Jos, see pages 789.
SAN JOS
CITY CENTER La Criollita :), \
Calles 7/9 and Ave 7 Tel 2256-6511 Map 2 D3

This delightful eatery on the edge of Barrio Amn is suffused with sunlight filtering through a vidriera (stained-
glass panel). Songbirds visit the lush outdoor patio. The large menu includes full breakfasts, snack lunches, and
simple but well-executed entres. It is popular with a business clientele at lunch. Closed Sunday.
CITY CENTER Mamas Place :, \
Calles Central/2 and Ave 1 Tel 2223-2270 Map 1 B3

Attracting workers at lunchtime, this small, no-frills family-run diner in the heart of downtown specializes in filling
casados (set meals) and Italian pastas and salads. Tpico (typical) dishes are displayed behind glass, cafeteria-style.
The Italian family running the place fusses over their clientele. Closed Sunday.
CITY CENTER Restaurante Vishnu , \
Calles 1/3 and Ave 1 Tel 2250-6063 Map 1 C3

This is a splendid budget option for vegetarians, with an extensive menu and large portions. It focuses on health
food, including vegetarian burgers, salads, fruit juices, and filling casados. The owners have similar restaurants
downtown and throughout San Jos. The eatery is kept spotlessly clean.
CITY CENTER Caf de la Posada :f \\
Calle 17 and Ave 2 Tel 2258-1027 Map 2 E4

A delightful bohemian caf-restaurant run by Argentinians. Creative fare includes empanadas (stuffed turnovers),
salads, quiches, and omelettes, as well as cappuccinos and delicious desserts, enjoyed to the accompaniment of
jazz and classical music. Diners can sit outside under large umbrellas in a pleasant pedestrian precinct.
CITY CENTER Spoon :, \\
Calles 5/7 and Ave Central, plus various other locations throughout San Jos Tel 2255-2480 Map 1 C3
Clean and simple cafeteria-style venue popular for its bargain-priced casados and various dishes such as salads,
sandwiches including lapices (submarines) and local favorites. Delicious baked goods attest to the chains
origins as a bakery.
CITY CENTER Balcn de Europa :), \\\
Calle 9 and Aves Central/1 Tel 2221-4841 Map 2 D3

An informal, timeless restaurant in the heart of downtown, with wood-paneled walls and serving hearty pastas
and other dishes conjured up by the French-born chef-owner. The decor includes framed proverbs and historical
prints. Closed Saturday.
CITY CENTER Caf Mundo ), \\\
Calle 15 and Ave 9 Tel 2222-6190 Map 2 E2

This converted mansion with plenty of historical character provides a pleasant environment for enjoying dishes
from an eclectic menu spanning salads to steaks. The restaurant, which has several dining rooms, a bar, and a
tree-shaded patio, doubles as an art gallery. Closed Sunday.
CITY CENTER Gourmet f, \\\
Parque Mora Fernndez, Ave 2 Tel 2221-4000 Map 1 C4

An inviting 24-hour patio restaurant known for its splendid position in front of the Teatro Nacional, and for the
comings and goings of itinerant musicians and hawkers. The simple arroz con pollo (chicken with rice) is cheap
and filling, and a buffet is offered. Usually, there is a pianist playing.
CITY CENTER La Cocina de Lea f) \\\
Centro Comercial El Pueblo, Barrio Tournon Tel 2256-5353 Map 2 D1

Tucked away amidst the narrow alleys of the El Pueblo complex, this invitingly rustic restaurant is decorated in the
style of a quintessential Costa Rican farmstead and is considered the place to enjoy traditional fare. The menu also
includes corn dishes.
Key to Symbols see back cover flap

CITY CENTER Restaurante Casa China f7 \\\
Calle 25 and Aves 8/10 Tel 2257-8392 Map 2 F3

Located in the Asociacin China de Costa Rica, this refectory-style restaurant is like a piece of Shanghai transported
to the center of San Jos. The menu offers a varied and seemingly endless list of authentic Chinese dishes at
unbeatable prices. Parking is available.
CITY CENTER Tin Jo :), \\\
Calle 11 and Aves 6/8 Tel 2221-7605 Map 2 D4

This homely restaurant spans the Orient with its wide-ranging menu featuring regional dishes from China, India,
Indonesia, Japan, and Thailand. The cuisine is filling and tasty, rather than gourmet. The decor bears minimal
Asiatic motifs, but the moodily dark ambience is appealing and the prices are right.
EAST OF CITY CENTER Bagelmens \
Calle 33 and Ave 2 Tel 2212-1314

Specializing in sandwiches, bagels, and baked goods, this clean modern option resembles a tastefully decorated
fast-food restaurant in ambience. The breakfasts, including gallo pinto (see p222), are an attractive bargain, but
the menu also features omelettes and other American favorites. There are also outlets in Escaz and San Pedro.
EAST OF CITY CENTER Caf Ruiseor : \\
Calles 41/43 and Ave Central Tel 2225-2562

Separated from the buzz of traffic by a wide grassy strip, this airy brasserie in the Los Yoses district is an excellent
place to lunch on soups, salads, and nouvelle seafood and meat dishes. The cappuccinos and espressos are good.
Choose indoor or shaded patio dining. Closed Sunday.
EAST OF CITY CENTER Ave Fenix , \\\
Ave Central, Los Yoses Tel 2225-3362

An excellent Chinese restaurant with an extensive menu and an authentically Oriental ambience, including
Chinese staff. The large portions come at reasonable prices. Exotic dishes are highlighted by a creative use of
original sauces, such as maraschino cherries and lime juice.
EAST OF CITY CENTER Olio 7), \\\
Calle 33, Aves 3/5, Barrio Escalante Tel 2281-0541

This tapas restaurant exudes a bohemian atmosphere and draws a trendy and sophisticated clientele. Exposed
brick walls and dark wainscoting paneling add to the romantic ambience. The expansive menu spans the
Mediterranean, from Spain to the Levantine.
EAST OF CITY CENTER Lle de France :) \\\\
Htel le Bergerac, Calle 35, S of Ave Central Tel 2234-7850

Inventive French dishes along with well-known classics such as vichysoisse are the hallmark of this intimate
restaurant inside the Htel le Bergerac (see p202). A large wine selection and delicious desserts round out the
pleasing dining experience, which can be enjoyed in an airy courtyard patio.
EAST OF CITY CENTER Marbella :7), \\\\
Ave Central, San Pedro Tel 2224-9452 Map 1 A3

Considered the finest Spanish restaurant in San Jos, this elegant establishment is situated at the rear of the
Centro Comercial de la Calle Real. Chef Emilio Machado is especially renowned for his superb paellas. Marbella
has a large wine list.
EAST OF CITY CENTER Jrgens Grill :), \\\\\
Boutique Hotel Jade, N of Autos Subaru dealership, Barrio Dent Tel 2283-2239
Situated in the Boutique Hotel Jade (see p201), this fashionable restaurant exudes contemporary elegance. The
menu of predominantly nouvelle dishes is invitingly creative and the ambience appealing, although the service is
somewhat formal and a dress code applies. The bar has a cigar lounge. Closed Sunday.
ESCAZ Giacomin :, \\
Calle del Llano, San Rafael de Escaz Tel 2288-3381

Light snacks and baked goods, from croissants to paninis, are offered at this caf specializing in exquisite home-
made chocolates and gourmet coffees. Enjoy your temptations in the air-conditioned caf or on a terrace overlooking
a landscaped garden. Closed Sunday.
ESCAZ Taj Mahal 7), \\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) W of Paco Plaza Tel 2228-0980

Costa Ricas only Indian restaurant, the Taj Mahal serves biryanis, tandoor dishes, tikka masala, naan bread, and other
authentic specialties from northern India. The menu accomodates both vegetarians and meat eaters, and the food is
cooked as hot as you like. The rack of lamb is not to be missed. A peacock roams the garden. Closed Monday.
ESCAZ Capital Grill ), \\\\\
Tara Resort Hotel, San Antonio de Escaz Tel 2288-6362

This renowned restaurant is a magnet for Costa Ricas social elite. Walls of glass offer sensational views,
while the menu features well-known Continental favorites, from lobster tail to corn-fed Angus steaks and
Alaskan king crab.
ESCAZ La Luz ), \\\\\
The Alta Hotel, Alto de las Palomas, 2 miles (3 km) W of Escaz Tel 2282-4160
High ceilings and elegant contemporary decor in mock-Tudor style characterize this upscale restaurant in the Alta
Hotel (see p202). Inventive nouvelle gourmet cuisine makes the most of local ingredients, although the food quality
has famously gone through periods of ups and downs. La Luz is favored for Sunday brunch.
ESCAZ Le Monastre :f), \\\\\
4 miles (6 km) W of Escaz Tel 2289-4404

Located high above Escaz, this fashionable restaurant in a former chapel plays on the monastic theme. Waiters
dress as monks, and Gregorian music fills the historic hallways and dining rooms. The French cuisine includes
escargot, and sea bass with crab, caviar, and champagne. Closed Sunday.
ESCAZ Saga 7, \\\\\
Guachipeln de Excaz, N of Centro Comercial Paco Tel 2289-6615

A trendy restaurant renowned for its food, ambience, and superb service. The menu features international dishes
including chicken in peanut sauce served with chutney, and seafood risotto with coconut. The deep-fried calamari is
a great appetizer. Dont miss the restaurants own bread or its great desserts, such as rice pudding with strawberries.
WEST OF CITY CENTER Sabor Nicaragense :, \
Calle 20 and Aves Central/1 Tel 2248-2547

Situated close to the Coca Cola bus terminal, this clean and well-run family-operated restaurant serves Nicaraguan
fare, as well as Costa Rican staples at budget prices. Although air-conditioned, it also has a small outdoor area
facing the tumultuous street.
WEST OF CITY CENTER Antojitos :f, \\
W of Sabana Oeste, Rohrmoser Tel 2231-5564

A lively Mexican restaurant serving all the traditional favorites, along with steaks and grilled meats, as well as
excellent margaritas. Mariachis sometimes entertain diners. Antojitos has outlets throughout the city. The chain
is extremely popular with locals and can get noisy.
WEST OF CITY CENTER Marisquera La Princesa Marina , \\
Sabana Oeste, SW corner of Parque Sabana Tel 2296-7667

Good, simple dishes from the sea are served at this no-frills restaurant on the west side of Parque Sabana. This
canteen-style option is always lively and very popular with the working-class crowd for its filling portions. The
ceviche appetizer is recommended, as is the corvina al ajillo (garlic sea bass) as a main dish.
WEST OF CITY CENTER Fogo de Brasil :f7), \\\
Ave las Amricas, Calles 40/42 Tel 2248-2526

Carnivores are in heaven at this huge Brazilian restaurant, where waiting staff dress in gaucho gear and deliver
all-you-can-eat charcoal-broiled meats to your table. A buffet table includes sushi, and there is also a pasta bar.
Free hotel shuttles are provided.
WEST OF CITY CENTER Lubnan f) \\\
Calles 22/24 and Paseo Coln Tel 2257-6071

Small and popular Lebanese restaurant with authentic Levantine dishes such as falafel and shish kebabs, served
by waiters wearing red vests and fezes. Hookahs are passed around and prove popular with the young crowd,
which flocks here for the quasi-party atmosphere. Closed Monday.
WEST OF CITY CENTER Machu Picchu , \\\
Calle 32 and Aves 1/3 Tel 2222-7384

Extremely popular seafood restaurant with superb service. The fare includes quality Peruvian dishes, from ceviche
(marinated raw fish or shellfish) to the picante de mariscos seafood casserole. Meals are best accompanied with
the pisco sour house drink. Peruvian art and posters enliven the place. Closed Sunday.
WEST OF CITY CENTER La Bastille , \\\\
Calle 22 and Paseo Coln Tel 2255-4994

A long-standing fixture, this elegant and semi-formal restaurant on a busy thoroughfare serves highly regarded
French cuisine from the hands of Chef Hans Pulfer. Service, however, is aloof, and although not required, a jacket
and other dressy attire is not out of place. Closed Sunday.
WEST OF CITY CENTER Park Caf 7 \\\\\
Calle 44, Sabana Norte Tel 2290-6324

Perhaps the finest dining experience in San Jos is to be had at this intimate restaurant in the courtyard garden
of an antique shop. Englands Michelin-starred chef Richard Neat delivers mouthwatering dishes, including tapas,
that draw on influences from around the world. Reservations essential.
WEST OF CITY CENTER Restaurant Grano de Oro ), \\\\\
Hotel Grano de Oro, Calle 30 and Aves 2/4 Tel 2255-3322

One of the citys finest restaurants, this elegant option is in San Joss premier boutique hotel (see p203) and
attracts the social and business elite. Superb French-inspired dishes blend Costa Rican influences, and the desserts
alone justify dining here. The filling breakfasts include healthy options. The staff are efficient and courteous.
ALAJUELA Jalapeos Comida Tex-Mex , \

This lively restaurant draws a loyal clientele of local expatriate residents. The menu ranges from hamburgers and
omelettes to Tex-Mex staples such as tostadas (tortillas with fillings), corn nachos, and huevos rancheros (a breakfast
favorite made with tortillas and eggs). Closed Sunday.
ALAJUELA Xandari :), \\\\
Tacacori, 3 miles (5 km) N of Alajuela Tel 2443-2020

Magnificent views across the valley from the open-air balcony are a highlight at this romantic restaurant, located
in a superlative boutique hotel set amid coffee plantations (see p204). Gourmet health-conscious dishes using
fresh local ingredients are complemented by a robust wine list and estate-grown coffee.
ATENAS Mirador del Cafetal :, \\\
Hwy 3, 5 miles (8 km) W of Atenas Tel 2446-7361

Tasty, simple food is served at this roadside restaurant with magnificent views over coffee fields and mountain
valleys. The vast menu features filling breakfasts, plus indigenous dishes such as tamales (see p223), as well as
smoothies, cappuccinos, and daiquiris. There is also a well-stocked gift store.
CIUDAD CARIARI Antonio Ristorante Italiano f), \\\
6 miles (10 km) NW of San Jos Tel 2293-0622

An elegant and modern restaurant, Antonio Ristorante Italiano specializes in well-prepared Italian dishes, from
gnocchi to a splendid spaghetti with squid. Inexpensive casados (set meals) are a lunchtime bargain. The service
is excellent. It has a piano bar.
CIUDAD CARIARI Sakura ), \\\\
Ribera de Beln, 0.5 (1 km) SE of San Antonio de Beln Tel 2209-9800 (ext. 7060)
Quality Japanese fare is served in authentically Oriental surroundings adjoining the Ramada Herradura Hotel. It has
a sushi bar, teppanyaki grills where guests can watch their food being prepared, and tatami rooms with private
chefs. An indoor pond is stocked with koi.
HEREDIA Spoon :, \
Plaza Heredia, Calle 9 and Ave 6 Tel 2260-1333

This small yet clean caf on the edge of downtown is noted for its inexpensive casados, salads, snacks, desserts,
and delicious baked goods, all served cafeteria-style. It is highly popular with university students as a breakfast
and lunch spot.
HEREDIA Hotel Bougainvillea :), \\\
Santo Domingo de Heredia, 2 miles (3 km) SE of Heredia Tel 2244-1414

This clean and well-lit restaurant in Hotel Bougainvillea (see p204) is adorned with appealing artwork. It serves
Continental dishes along with local fare of superior quality. The service is always professional, overseen by a
conscientious and capable owner. The weekend brunch is popular with locals in the know.
HEREDIA La Luna de Valencia f7), \\\
San Pedro de Heredia, 2 miles (3 km) NW of Heredia Tel 2269-6665

With his flamboyant command of the open kitchen, Vicente Aguilar, the Catalan owner of this restaurant, is reason
enough to visit. At night Aguilar joins live musicians on stage, in addition to overseeing the making of superb paellas
and other Spanish dishes, best washed down with sangra. The venue is a centenary wooden home.
HEREDIA Le Petit Paris f, \\\

In the heart of town, this compact and intimate restaurant occupies a converted home. The traditional French
cuisine chicken la Normandie is typical is well-prepared and tasty, and the wide-ranging menu includes salads,
sandwiches, and pastries. Crpes are a specialty. Live music is hosted on Fridays and Sundays.
HEREDIA Restaurante Don Prspero :f, \\\
Santa Luca, 0.5 mile (1 km) N of Heredia Tel 2260-2748

Part of the Caf Britt coffee processing site (see p92), this informally elegant open-air restaurant has a health-
conscious menu featuring organically grown vegetables, plus delicious desserts and a wide variety of coffee drinks.
Although best enjoyed as part of an inclusive tour, casual diners are also welcome.
HEREDIA El Tigre Vestido , \\\\\
Santa Barbara de Heredia, 4 miles (6 km) NW of Heredia Tel 2269-9392

Gourmet meals served at Finca Rosa Blanca Coffee Plantation & Inn (see p204) can be enjoyed alfresco. Their
accomplished chef uses estate-grown ingredients in nouvelle temptations of award-winning quality. The menu
includes Central American dishes, such as pupusas (stuffed flat breads). Dinner by reservation.
LA GARITA Fiesta del Maz \
Hwy 3, 0.5 mile (1 km) W of Pan-Am Hwy Tel 2487-5757

This popular roadside restaurant specializes in traditional corn-based items, such as chorreadas (corn fritters) and
tamales (see p223), served in a no-frills environment. A favorite of locals, it gets packed on weekends, when gallo
pinto (see p222) and other local favorites are also offered. Closed Monday.
LA GARITA Restaurante Le Gourmet :f), \\\\
Martino Resort & Spa, Hwy 3, 2 miles (3 km) E of Pan-Am Hwy Tel 2433-8382
Sumptuous restaurant situated in the Martino Resort & Spa (see p204), with a curved balcony overlooking the pool
that offers an option for outdoor dining. Health-conscious Italian fare utilizes fresh vegetables and fruits from the
hotels own gardens. The restaurant is open until 3am.
MONTE DE LA CRUZ Baalbek Bar & Grill f)7, \\\
Los Angeles de San Rafael, 2 miles (3 km) S of Monte de la Cruz Tel 2267-6683
A favorite of San Joss upper crust, this Levantine-themed restaurant combines superb views over the valley with
a big dose of ambience and top-class cuisine. Baba ghanoush and other Mediterranean favorites feature on the
menu. At the end of your meal, you can enjoy a hookah in intimate upstairs booths.
MONTE DE LA CRUZ Bistro Chamonix :) \\\\
Monte de la Cruz, 6 miles (10 km) NE of Heredia Tel 2267-6222

Located in the Swiss-inspired Hotel Chalet Tirol (see p204), this cozy, wood-beamed alpine restaurant has a log fire
and candlelit dining at night. While the focus is on traditional French dishes, the menu also features creative dishes
using Costa Rican ingredients, such as shrimp in fennel and Pernod sauce.
OROSI Orosi Lodge \
SW of the plaza, Orosi village Tel 2533-3578

Located in a small lodge (see p205) tucked into the southeast corner of the village, this small caf has a charming
ambience. It serves light breakfasts, pizzas, snacks, and cookies and ice cream sundaes. A juke box and table
football are on hand for rainy days. It also offers Internet connectivity. Closed Sunday.
OROSI Restaurant Coto :7, \\\
On the N side of the plaza Tel 2533-3032

This traditional open-air restaurant exudes ambience thanks to its wood-fired oven. Roast chicken and pork dishes
feature prominently on the menu, which also offers garlic seabass, plus trout from nearby streams. Cheap casados
(set lunches) ensure this restaurant is busy round the clock.
SABANA REDONDA Restaurante Jaulares :f) \\
12 miles (19 km) N of Alajuela Tel 2482-2600

This restaurant on the cool mid-elevation slopes of Volcn Pos, designed as a rustic farmstead, serves traditional
dishes, steaks, and seafood. Pizzas are fired in a traditional wood-burning horno (oven). Take a sweater for chilly
nights. Live music on weekends draws in the crowds.
SAN ANTONIO DE BELEN El Rodeo :, \\\
4 miles (6 km) S of Alajuela Tel 2293-3909

An appealing rusticity, with saddles and other equestrian paraphernalia, lend this airy timber-beamed restaurant a
unique ambience. Authentic Costa Rica cuisine, such as corn tortillas with sliced tongue, and more imaginative
dishes such as tenderloin in jalapeo cream, draw an appreciative clientele.
SAN GERARDO DE DOTA Comida Tpica Miriam :7 \\\
2 miles (3 km) NE of San Gerardo de Dota Tel 2740-1049

Offering a real campesino (peasant) experience, this delightful little family-run restaurant on the mountain road
above Dantica Lodge (see p205) serves hearty country fare, including freshly caught trout. A tiny cast-iron stove
provides warmth.
SAN JOS DE LA MONTANA Las Ardillas ) \\\
6 miles (10 km) N of Heredia Tel 2266-0015

This wood-and-stone lodge set amid pines has a delightfully rustic ambience enhanced by a huge hearth with
blazing logs on chilly days and at night. It specializes in roasted meat dishes, prepared in a wood-burning oven,
and seafood, but also has local favorites. It gets chilly here, so bring a sweater or jacket.
SAN PABLO DE LEN CORTS Bar Restaurante Vaca Flaca ) \\
25 miles (40 km) SE of San Jos Tel 2278-1868

Situated in a pine forest along the Ruta de los Santos (see p97), this rustic restaurant has a wonderful warm
ambience. The decor includes cowhide seats, cowboy hats, mounted deer heads, and old rifles. Simple traditional
dishes are served, as are burgers, sandwiches, and the restaurants own brand of coffee.
SANTA ANA Bacchus \\\\\
Santa Ana Tel 2282-5441

Housed in a refurbished 100-year-old house, this stylish bistro, which has modern art on the walls, serves French
and Italian dishes including baked mushroom-and-polenta ragout and pizza cooked in a wood-fired oven. There
is an extensive wine list and exceptional desserts. Wonderful service. Closed Monday.
SANTA MARA DE DOTA La Casona de Sara \
E of Beneficio Coopedota Tel 2541-2258

Overseen by a charming matriarch, this simple family-run restaurant serves hearty tpico fare from the open kitchen,
where you are welcome to peek into the simmering pots to make your selection. Be sure to try the fresh fruit
batidos, also called refrescos (shakes).
SARCH Restaurante Las Carreteras :, \\\
Adjacent to Fbrica de Carretas Joaqun Chaverr, Sarch Sur Tel 2454-1633

A homely and airy restaurant in the heart of this artisans center melds a rustic charm with a contemporary setting.
The extensive menu ranges from soups, salads, and burgers to Italian dishes and local favorites. Outdoor dining
is an option on sunny days.
TURRIALBA Hotel Casa Turire :), \\\\
Hacienda Atirro, 5 miles (8 km) SE of Turrialba Tel 2531-1111

Opening on to a lavishly landscaped courtyard with fountains, this elegant restaurant in a classy boutique hotel
(see p205) has a wide-ranging menu of locally inspired dishes highlighted by scrumptious desserts and estate-grown
coffee. Dishes are creatively presented and filling, albeit not gourmet.
VARA BLANCA Restaurante Colbert :, \\
14 miles (22 km) N of Alajuela Tel 2482-2776

Views down the mountain are reason enough to dine at this French-run bakery and caf, which serves crpes, light
snacks, confections, and nouvelle Costa Rican cuisine la franais, such as tilapia fish in tomato sauce. Sitting atop
the Continental Divide, it is often shrouded in clouds.
THE CENTRAL PACIFIC AND SOUTHERN NICOYA
JAC Bar Restaurante Colonial :, \\
Calle Boho and Ave Pastro Daz Tel 2643-3326

A spacious and airy tropical-themed restaurant with a skylight, a large bar, and shaded outdoor dining. It offers
an ambitious menu with light fare, including bar snacks, and fresh seafood with a nouvelle twist mussels in garlic
and olive oil are typical.
JAC Claritas Sports Bar & Grill :f7), \\\
Off Ave Pastor Daz, at the N end of Jac Tel 2643-2615

One of very few dining options actually on the beach, this open-air US-style diner serves many North American
favorites, from omelettes to burgers and burritos. The all-female waiting staff are chosen for their looks, and live
music and beauty contests are regularly hosted.
JAC Taco Bar 7 \\\
Behind Multicentro Costa Rica, off Ave Pastor Daz Tel 2643-0222
This casual, Israeli-run open-air establishment is a tremendous bargain for its all-you-can-eat buffet and Japanese-
inspired fare, including sashimi and such main dishes as citrus-teriyaki chicken. It specializes in custom-made fish
tacos, including spicy coconut shrimp. Taco Bar also has free Wi-Fi.
JAC Hotel Poseidon Bar y Restaurante ) \\\\
Hotel Poseidon, Calle Boho Tel 2643-1642

Located in Hotel Poseidon (see p206), this restaurant is known for its hearty breakfasts and creative fusion fare,
such as filet mignon with a Barnaise-jalapeo sauce. Oriental throw rugs, wooden carvings, and stone walls
provide a warm ambience, enhanced by live jazz. The open-wall plan lets in the tropical breezes.
JAC Pacific Bistro , \\\\
Calle Las Palmeras and Ave Pastro Daz Tel 2643-3771

Situated on the main street, this gourmet restaurant serves Asia-Pacific fusion cuisine with a focus on fresh seafood.
Spicy Indonesian shrimp noodles are a signature dish. Professionally trained chef Kent Green proves adept in the
kitchen. Patrons can choose from indoor or patio dining. Closed Monday and Tuesday.
MALPAS Rancho Itauna f) \\\
Playa Santa Teresa, 1 mile (1.6 km) N of Carmen Tel 2640-0095

Renowned for its full moon and New Year parties, this small, unpretentious, and colorful restaurant serves
international cuisine from around the globe, but with an emphasis on Brazilian dishes. It occasionally has live
music and parties, and hosts a traditional barbecue every Thursday evening.
MALPAS Nectar Bar and Restaurante :), \\\\
Florblanca Resort, Playa Santa Teresa, 3 miles (5 km) N of Carmen Tel 2640-0232
Outstanding menu and atmosphere at the fashionable Florblanca Resort (see p206). Gourmet, Asian-inspired fusion
dishes are presented with flair, and the airy beachfront setting is enhanced at night by candlelight. The curvilinear
bar serves sushi and plays a wide variety of music, from classical to jazz.
MANUEL ANTONIO Caf Milagro , \\\
3 miles (5 km) S of Quepos Tel 2777-0794

A small roadside caf with a charming ambience and simple furnishings in various tropical pastels. Sandwiches and
pastries and a large selection of coffees and teas can be enjoyed on the shady patio to the rear. The caf also has
a souvenir store. Closed Sunday and during evenings in the low season.
MANUEL ANTONIO Restaurante Gato Negro :f), \\\
Hotel Casitas Eclipse, 3 miles (5 km) S of Quepos Tel 2777-0408

Situated in an elegant hotel, the airy restaurant has a warm, romantic ambience with splendid views. With a
large wine list, the eating place has a Mediterranean-inspired menu. The choice of pastas is extensive, and many
Italian favorites (such as tagliatelle) are featured.
MANUEL ANTONIO Marlintinis :f), \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) S of Quepos, on the road to Manuel Antonio Tel 2777-7474
A newcomer in 2008, Marlintinis specializes in fresh seafood, but it also has many continental favorites, such as
pork chops and steaks. Bring in your catch, and resident chef Art Lander will prepare it to your specifications. The
lively bar features more than two dozen Martini-based cocktails.
MANUEL ANTONIO Claro Que Si :), \\\\\
Hotel Si Como No Resort, 3 miles (5 km) S of Quepos Tel 2777-0777

This fine-dining restaurant with contemporary sophistication is located in an upscale hotel (see p207). An engaging
seafood menu, combining local ingredients with Caribbean and international flavors, is complemented by a large
wine list. Healthy, mouthwatering winners include the avocado salad and the seafood and spinach ravioli.
MANUEL ANTONIO La Mariposa ) \\\\\
Hotel La Mariposa, 3 miles (5 km) S of Quepos Tel 2777-0355

Located in a venerable hotel (see p207), this acclaimed restaurant serves French-inspired cuisine in the open air,
with unsurpassed views over the national park. Ranging from local staples such as gallo pinto, to tempting entres,
including chicken breast in mustard and French wine sauce, the inventive menu has plenty of appeal.
MANUEL ANTONIO Sunspot Poolside Bar and Grill :), \\\\\
Makanda by the Sea, 3 miles (5 km) S of Quepos Tel 2777-0442

Acclaimed and intimate open-air gourmet restaurant with a romantic poolside setting located in a deluxe hotel with
dramatic decor and ocean vistas (see p207). Fresh ingredients and creative flare are hallmarks of the nouvelle menu,
with many dishes prepared on the grill. Gourmet pizzas are a signature dish. Closed Monday.
MONTEZUMA Bakery Caf \
200 yards (200 m) E of the village square Tel 2642-0458

Located close to the main beach entrance, this simple caf pleases vegetarians and vegans alike with its creative
range of organic dishes, including delicious banana breads and soy burgers. A wooden deck provides an alfresco
dining space beneath the shade of trees.
MONTEZUMA El Sano Banano Village Restaurant & Caf :, \\\
W side of the plaza Tel 2642-0638

This natural-food restaurant in the heart of the village boasts an international menu and is known for its fresh fruit
juices. The scrambled tofu breakfast and curried veggies are popular items, as are batidos (iced fruit shakes). Movies,
free with dinner, are screened nightly. The restaurant prepares boxed lunches.
PLAYA HERMOSA Jammin Restaurante : \
Hwy 34, 2 miles (3 km) S of Jac Tel 2643-7013

Popular with the surfing crowd and decorated in trademark black, red, and green, this atmospheric Rastafarian-
themed caf is built with rough-hewn timbers. Its menu includes American breakfasts and snacks such as
quesadillas (stuffed fried tortillas) and ceviche (marinated raw fish or shellfish).
PLAYA HERRADURA Steve N Lisas Paradise Caf :f \\
1 mile (1.6 km) S of Parque Nacional Carara Tel 2637-0954

Sandwiched between Highway 32 and the ocean, this long-standing and popular open-air roadside diner has a
small terrace overlooking the surf. A large menu of light snacks and international dishes includes burgers, tuna
melt sandwiches, and cooked meals from pastas to seafood.
PLAYA HERRADURA El Mirador and El Anfiteatro :f), \\\\\
Hotel Villa Caletas, 2 miles (3 km) N of Playa Herradura Tel 2637-0505

The sublime mountaintop setting at the renowned Hotel Villa Caletas (see p207) sets these two fine-dining eateries
apart. Gourmet nouvelle dishes evoke the best of fusion cuisine and the classical-themed mood is inviting. A patio
with fine views is suited to breakfasts and luncheons. Live concerts are offered in a classical amphitheater.
PLAYA HERRADURA El Nuevo Latino ), \\\\\
Los Sueos Marriott Ocean & Golf Resort, 1 mile (1.6 km) W of Hwy 34 Tel 2630-9000
Seafood and gourmet Latin fusion dishes highlight the menu in this elegant, yet informal, restaurant with pool
views at the Los Sueos Marriott Ocean & Golf Resort (see p208). Recommended appetizers include lobster and
shrimp croquettes, followed perhaps by imaginative entres such as plantain-crusted red snapper.
PUNTARENAS La Yunta Steakhouse ), \\\
Paseo de los Turistas Tel 2661-3216

A venerable two-story wooden home on the main oceanfront drag, this restaurant has a shaded windswept
veranda overlooking the Gulf of Nicoya. The menu includes grilled steaks, as well as seafood such as the signature
corvina tropical (sea bass with tropical fruit sauce), all well prepared and offered in filling portions.
QUEPOS El Patio Caf :7, \
On the shorefront road in town Tel 2777-4982

This colorful and airy caf is a favorite local gathering spot for breakfasts such as granola with fruit and yoghurt,
or traditional gallo pinto (fried rice and black beans). El Patio bakes its own breads and desserts, and it also serves
delicious fruit shakes, plus lattes, cappuccinos, etc.
QUEPOS Dos Locos :) \\
W of the bus station Tel 2777-1526

This Mexican restaurant has lively decor playing on the cactus and sombrero theme. Open walls lend an airy tropical
feel. Its acclaimed regional fare includes expected staples, from chimichangas (deep-fried burritos) and flautas
(cylindrical stuffed tortillas) to quesadillas. American breakfasts are also served.
QUEPOS The Blue Monkey Rainforest Restaurant :), \\\
1 mile (1.6 km) out of town towards Manuel Antonio Tel 2777-2572
This friendly, reasonably priced, garden restaurant serves casados a typical Costa Rican dish of rice, beans, plantain,
and either chicken, beef, or pork and a range of international dishes. Breakfast specialties include mango pancakes
and French toast made with coconut and raisin bread.
QUEPOS El Gran Escape ),: \\\\
W of the bus station Tel 2777-0395

Immensely popular and often packed restaurant in an old two-story wooden building open to refreshing tropical
breezes. The wide-ranging menu goes from light snacks to fresh seafood, steaks, and locally inspired coconut curry
chicken. Closed Tuesday.
TAMBOR Restaurante Arrecife ) \\\\
Hotel Costa Coral, 1 mile (1.6 km) W of the airstrip Tel 2683-0105
This clean restaurant boasts colorful contemporary decor. It has an extensive menu of light snacks and seafood,
from ceviche and corvina with heart-of-palm sauce to burgers and chicken in orange sauce. The bar has karaoke
and a large-screen TV.
CAAS Hacienda La Pacifica :7, \
2.5 miles (4 km) N of Caas Tel 2669-6050

This restaurant housed in a historic hacienda offers a fabulous traditional ambience combining rusticity and elegance.
Locally grown organic rice accompanies such international dishes as jumbo garlic shrimps and tenderloin pepper
steak. Diners would be wise to bring mosquito repellent.
CAAS Restaurante Rincn Corobic :) \\
Pan-Am Hwy, 3 miles (5 km) N of Caas Tel 2669-6262

Overhanging Ro Corobic, this airy, multidecked roadside restaurant offers a fine vantage point to watch whitewater
rafters. The broad-ranging menu features local staples, including seafood the garlic sea bass is particularly good.
The home-made lemonade is a perfect antidote to the mid-summer heat.
ISLITA 1492 Restaurante :), \\\\\
Hotel Punta Islita, 6 miles (10 km) S of Carrillo Tel 2656-2020

A romantic and elegant gourmet restaurant under soaring thatch at the deluxe Hacienda Punta Islita resort
(see p209) enjoys a fabulous hilltop setting and coastal vistas. Chef Lizbeth Molina Muoz conjures local ingredients
into mouthwatering treats influenced by Pacific Rim and European tastes. The service is excellent.
LIBERIA Caf Europa :, \\
Hwy 21, 12 miles (19 km) W of Liberia Tel 6268-1081

Small roadside caf-bakery offering delicious pastries and breads baked onsite by the German owner. Burgers
and German-inspired hot dishes such as breaded veal cutlets are also served. The restaurant can get stuffy; if the
weather permits, opt to sit outside.
LIBERIA Panadera Alemn :7, \\\
Ave Central and Calle 10 Tel 2665-2061

Opened by the owner of Caf Europa (see above), this open-air restaurant is built around a huge guanacaste tree
in the heart of town. It offers a budget-priced casado (set lunch), plus fresh seafood and meat dishes. German
specialties feature prominently too, including apple strudel with ice cream.
LIBERIA Restaurante Paso Real :), \\\
Calles Central/2 and Ave Central Tel 2666-3455

Situated over the plaza, this spacious restaurant offers quality seafood, including calamari and lobster dishes, along
with casados (set meals) and more. A small balcony permits outdoor dining. Service is prompt and courteous. The
lively bar has a large-screen TV.
MONTEVERDE Moon Shiva ), \\\
2 miles (3 km) E of Santa Elena Tel 2645-6270

Adjoining the medical clinic, this offbeat restaurant fuses Costa Rican ingredients with fare inspired by the Middle
East, but the menu also features popular non-Hispanic snacks and desserts, as well as cappuccinos. World music
plays, adding to the hip, somewhat alternative ambience, and live musicians also perform here.
MONTEVERDE Restaurant Morphos , \\\
Santa Elena village Tel 2645-5607

In the heart of Santa Elena, this restaurant is built with natural stones and timbers, and has furniture made of
rough-hewn logs. It has casados (set meals), but the menu also offers burgers, salads, and sea bass Dijon, as well
as ice cream sundaes and fresh fruit batidos or refrescos (shakes). It can be packed, day or night.
MONTEVERDE Garden Restaurant ), \\\\
Monteverde Lodge, SE of Santa Elena Tel 2645-5057

Airy restaurant overlooking lush gardens. The menu highlights creative Costa Rican cuisine, such as shredded duck
empanadas (stuffed turnovers), and coconut and macadamia-crusted sea bass, supported by a large wine list. A
cozy bar with a log fire adjoins the restaurant. Service is swift and efficient.
MONTEVERDE El Sapo Dorado :f), \\\\\
Cerro Plano, 0.5 mile (1 km) E of Santa Elena Tel 2645-5010

Recognized for its wholesome health-food dishes, this elegant restaurant attached to the El Sapo Dorado hotel
(see p209) has a delightful ambience and an open-air terrace. The inventive menu includes dishes such as tofu with
vegetarian primavera, and shrimp in Sambuca sauce, as well as delicious desserts.
MONTEVERDE Sofia 7f, \\\\\
Opposite the medical clinic, 1 mile (1.6 km) E of Santa Elena Tel 2645-7017
Chef-owner Karen Nielsen raised the bar a notch when she opened this fine-dining restaurant serving fusion dishes
that combine Costa Rican ingredients with inspirations from around the globe. Live music ranges from classical to
jazz ensembles.
NOSARA Pizzera Giardino Tropicale : \\
Beaches of Nosara, 4 miles (6 km) S of the airstrip Tel 2682-0258

A rustic thatched restaurant with several wooden decks beneath shade trees. As the name suggests, it is known for
its pizzas fired in a traditional wood-fired oven, but the menu also features seafood, including carpaccio of corvina
(sea bass) and daily specials.
NOSARA Luna Bar and Grill ) \\\
Playa Pelada, Beaches of Nosara Tel 2682-0122

Tucked in a cove, this atmospheric beachfront bar with a hip groove offers gourmet snacks such as sushi rolls and
lentil soup. It has a west-facing terrace for enjoying the spectacular sunsets. World music draws patrons on to the
dance floor.
NOSARA Marlin Bills \\\
Beaches of Nosara, 4 miles (6 km) S of the airstrip Tel 2682-0458

Situated at the main junction of the unpaved coast road, this elevated open-air eatery highlights American favorites,
from pork loin chops and blackened tuna salad to Key lime pie. It is very popular with locals, who congregate at the
bar, which also has a TV.
NOSARA Restaurante Vista del Paraso 7 \\\\
In the hills, 1 mile (1.6 km) E of Beaches of Nosara Tel 2682-0637

As the name suggests, this ridgetop restaurant offers sensational views up and down the coast. The Texan owner
is a French-trained chef who serves a continental menu that includes such treats as baked goats cheese salad and
Napoleon of beef tenderloin. Candlelit dining can be enjoyed on a terrace.
PLAYA CONCHAL Outback Jacks Australian Road Kill Grill ) \\\
Hotel Brasilito, NW corner of the plaza, Brasilito Tel 2654-4596

Open to the elements, this windswept restaurant in the Hotel Brasilito is splendidly situated just a few steps from the
beach. A huge international menu includes Aussie fish and chips, and shrimp on the barbie. The place for breakfasts,
it offers warm croissants, huevos rancheros (a breakfast favorite made with tortillas and eggs), and more.
PLAYA FLAMINGO Maries Restaurante : \\\
Centro Comercial La Plaza, W of the marina Tel 2654-4136

Now in elegant surroundings, this venerable restaurant caters to sailors with a menu of international favorites from
fish and chips to burritos served under a huge thatched ceiling. A wide choice of coffee drinks and ice cream
sundaes are reason enough to choose Maries, named after the English-born hostess.
PLAYA FLAMINGO Angelinas ), \\\\\
Centro Comercial La Plaza, W of the marina Tel 2654-4839

With its trendy decor and creative fusion menu, this restaurant has upped the level of sophistication in Playa
Flamingo. Start and end your Angelina experience at the stylish lounge bar, with its sumptuous leather sofas.
Bear in mind that prices are steep and that management can be haughty toward guests.
PLAYA GRANDE The Great Waltinis :, \\\\
Hotel Bula Bula, S of El Mundo de la Tortuga, S end of Playa Grande Tel 2653-0975
This small restaurant in delightful Hotel Bula Bula (see p210) has a shaded deck overlooking a landscaped garden.
Snacks and gourmet fusion dishes from the hands of a professional chef are served. Consider the shrimp and crab-
cakes followed by duckling with red wine and raspberry reduction. Closed Monday.
PLAYA GRANDE Hotel Las Tortugas :, \\\\
W of El Mundo de la Tortuga, N end of Playa Grande Tel 2653-0423

Situated close to the beach within Hotel Las Tortugas (see p210), this restaurant serves light meals such as burgers
and salads, as well as steaks and seafood. The owners boast of their apple pie and ice cream, and with good reason.
There is a shaded wooden deck, and the service and mood are relaxed and friendly.
PLAYA HERMOSA The Bistro ) \\\\
Atop the hill, W of the main road, S end of Playa Hermosa Tel 2670-0227
Recherch French-Costa Rican cuisine served on the hilltop terrace of Hotel La Finisterra (see p210). Dishes such
as filet mignon with peppercorn sauce have earned the chef a regional reputation for excellence. Sushi is served
on Friday evenings. Closed Tuesday.
PLAYA HERMOSA Villas del Sueo f), \\\\
S end of Playa Hermosa Tel 2672-0026

Elegance is a keyword at this open-air restaurant of the well-run Villas del Sueo (see p210). Live bands perform in
high season. Gourmet meals focus on fresh seafood such as mahimahi and shrimp in cream sauce, but also include
such dishes as tenderloin in brandy and three-pepper sauce.
PLAYA NEGRA Caf Playa Negra \\
S of Los Pargos Plaza Tel 2652-9143

Small, charming Internet caf in the village center, a short walk from the beach. The Peruvian-born owner-chef
offers a wide selection of light food, from pancakes and French toast to ceviche (marinated raw fish or shellfish),
quiches, and pastas. Leave room for the lemon pie or an iced fresh fruit batido (shake).
PLAYA NEGRA Pablos Picasso ) \\\
S of Los Pargos Tel 2652-9158

Located in a budget hotel (see p210), this rustic restaurant with a barefoot ambience serves jumbo burgers, pastas,
and tpico (typical) dishes plus filling American breakfasts, including pancakes. It boasts a pool table and movies at
the bar with oversize wooden chairs. Popular with the surfing crowd.
PLAYA OCOTAL Father Rooster Bar & Grill :f) \\\
2 miles (3 km) W of Playas del Coco Tel 2670-1246

Situated on the sands, this rustic restaurant is centered on a lively bar of rough-hewn timbers, which serves killer
cocktails. The menu focuses on bar foods, such as burgers and quesadillas (stuffed fried tortillas). Activities include
volleyball, and the mood is almost always party-hearty.
PLAYAS DEL COCO Restaurante Sol y Luna ), \\\
Hotel Puerta del Sol, SE of the plaza Tel 2670-0195

Opening on to an exquisitely landscaped garden in Hotel Puerta del Sol (see p211), this intimate restaurant has
Romanesque decor and a menu of Italian staples prepared by a professional chef. An extensive wine list and
delicious coffee drinks and desserts, including tiramisu, round off the menu. Closed Tuesday.
PLAYAS DEL COCO Caf de Playa 7, \\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) E of the village center Tel 2670-1621

Facing the bay, the breeze-swept Caf de Playa has a lovely contemporary elegance, but the main draw is its eclectic
international menu of gourmet fusion dishes, from penne pastas to jumbo shrimp in rum sauce, and even sushi.
There is also an impressive wine list.
PLAYAS DEL COCO Suelys 7 \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) W of the village center Tel 2670-1696

Two French sisters have created this sublime eatery just a stones throw away from the beach. Sit beneath shade
trees on multi-tiered decks as you savor such nouvelle delights as crusted salmon appetizer and the house special:
seafood medley with saffron rice on a bed of leek fondue. The desserts tantalize equally.
SMARA Restaurante Las Brasas 7, \\\
On the NE corner of the soccer field Tel 2656-0546

Las Brasas is an atmospheric open-air Mediterranean restaurant made entirely of glazed hardwoods and thatch.
The menu is laden with Spanish specialties such as gazpacho and paella, but a wide range of seafood, steak, and
pasta dishes also feature on the menu.
TAMARINDO Lazy Wave : \\
Hotel Pasatiempo, S of Plaza Colonial Tel 2653-0096

With a dead tree at its heart, this open-air restaurant draws a young, high-energy crowd. The seafood menu favors
the health-conscious and offers a daily selection of fusion dishes, such as wasabi-crusted tuna. Eclectic dishes such
as jambalaya (a kind of paella) are also available. Live music includes an open mic on Tuesdays.
TAMARINDO Panadera La Laguna del Cocodrilo \\
E of Tamarindo Dira and Plaza Colonial Tel 2653-0255

Situated in front of a lagoon with crocodiles, this congenial bakery-caf produces superb pastries and empanadas
(stuffed turnovers) and is known for its all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet. The French owners deliver consistently
light croissants and sweet and savory tarts.
TAMARINDO Capitn Suizo :f, \\\\\
0.5 mile (1 km) SW of Plaza Colonial Tel 2653-0075

Fine nouvelle cuisine served in an airy, colorful, and tranquil beachfront restaurant with a poolside bar, located
within the luxurious Capitn Suizo hotel (see p212). Creative dishes fuse European influences and Costa Rican
ingredients sea bass in mango sauce and tilapia fish in caper sauce are typical of the menu, which changes daily.
TAMARINDO Dragonfly 7), \\\\\
100 yards (100 m) NE of Hotel Pasatiempo Tel 2653-1506

Patrons have been known to travel from as far away as San Jos simply to dine on the inspired Latin-Asian fusion
cuisine at the acclaimed restaurant of chef-owner Tish Tomlinson. The romantic open-air dining area has a canvas
sail roof supported by twisting columns. Closed Sunday.
TAMARINDO El Jardn del Edn :), \\\\\
SE of Tamarindo Dira and Plaza Colonial Tel 2653-0137

Overlooking a landscaped swimming pool, floodlit at night, this thatched restaurant is appealing for its exquisitely
romantic atmosphere. Gourmet Mediterranean-inspired dishes include lobster in lemon sauce, and jumbo shrimp
in whiskey. Fresh-baked pastries and gallo pinto (see p222) are served at breakfast.
THE NORTHERN ZONE
LA FORTUNA Choza de Laurel : \\
400 yards (400 m) NW of the church Tel 2479-7063

A rustic restaurant in the style of an old farmhouse, with a wood-fired horno (oven) and beams adorned with cloves
of garlic. Inexpensive casados (set meals) and local dishes are the focus, as well as rotisserie chicken and other grilled
meats. The plato especial (mixed plate) is popular.
LA FORTUNA Rancho La Cascada :f), \\\
NW corner of the plaza Tel 2479-9145

With a huge circular thatched roof, La Cascada dominates the town square. Open-sided and airy, it has a pleasingly
informal ambience. Mid-priced Western favorites are served, as are pastas, pizzas, and Costa Rican staples, from
gallo pinto to corvina al ajillo (garlic sea bass). An upstairs bar has a large-screen TV and disco.
LA FORTUNA Restaurante Luigi :f), \\\
Luigis Hotel, 2 blocks W of the plaza Tel 2479-9636

Flambe dishes are a specialty of this elegant restaurant, but the menu also includes local seafood and other
internationally recognized dishes, such as beef stroganoff, along with pizzas and pastas. Attached to a hotel,
this spacious eatery opens onto a pleasant roadside terrace.
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Toms Pan German Bakery , \\
Nuevo Arenal, SE of the plaza Tel 2694-4547

This rustic, German-run bakery-caf on the main drag in town serves baked dishes hot from the oven. It also offers
international favorites, including American breakfasts, as well as lasagne and sauerkraut. There are only a few tables
and chairs on the shaded terrace out front, and German tour groups often fill the place.
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Mystica Lodge : \\\
10 miles (16 km) W of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2692-1001

Located in the intimate Mystica Lodge (see p213), this Italian restaurant is colorful by day and romantic by night. It
has exquisite decor: informally elegant place settings, rough-hewn timber furniture, tropical pastels, and flowers on
every table. Pizzas are the specialty, but the raviolis and other dishes, prepared in the open kitchen, are all top-notch.
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Toad Hall : \\\
5 miles (8 km) E of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2692-8001

Caf-style balcony dining with splendid lake views is offered at this art gallery serving organic salads, focaccia
sandwiches, scrumptious desserts, and gourmet coffees and teas. The decor is colorful, the setting sublime, and
the simple dishes prepared by the live-in owners are tasty and filling.
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Gingerbread :7), \\\\
2 miles (3 km) E of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2694-0039

Themed after a Tuscan villa, this restaurant is attached to a boutique hotel whose Israeli owner proves extremely
proficient in the kitchen. His daily fusion menu can range from sushi to jumbo shrimp with couscous and lentils.
Opt to dine on the shaded patio or in private booths in the cool interior.
LAGUNA DE ARENAL Restaurante Willys Caballo Negro , \\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) W of Nuevo Arenal Tel 2694-4515

The owners German origins show in the menu of this delightful caf overlooking a pond with waterfowl. Its
schnitzels are well known, but eggplant Parmesan and veal cutlet in spicy onion and bell pepper sauce exemplify
more inventive fare. Its art store, the Lucky Bug Gallery, is renowned.
PARQUE NACIONAL VOLCAN ARENAL Arenal Observatory Lodge ) \\\\
5 miles (8 km) SE of the park entrance Tel 2479-1070

Spectacular views of Volcn Arenal are the main draw of this restaurant, which is located in a modern ecolodge
(see p213) on the upper flanks of Volcn Chato. Its menu melds international influences with local ingredients:
the chicken in curry sauce and the various tilapia dishes are recommended. Service is courteous and efficient.
TABACN Ave del Paraso :) \\\
8 miles (13 km) W of La Fortuna Tel 2460-6229

Situated over steaming hot springs with dramatic volcano views at Balneario Tabacn, this airy restaurant offers
Costa Rican staples and a wide choice of quality international dishes, from gallo pinto to burgers and French onion
soup. The corvina in apple and chile pepper sauce is recommended. Service is efficient.
THE CARIBBEAN
CAHUITA Miss Ediths \\
NW of Cahuita Plaza Tel 2755-0248

Spicy Caribbean classics such as rundown (see p223) are featured at this colorful restaurant attached to the
home of the eponymous owner. The family prepares meals in an open kitchen, and patrons dine on a shaded and
colorful terrace. Home-made ice cream is served on weekends, and the herb teas are worth trying.
CAHUITA Caf Cocorico 7 \\\
50 yards (50 m) N of the plaza Tel 2755-0324

Gauzy curtains, colorful cushions, and Arab-style ceiling drapes predominate at this small, open-air, Italian-run
restaurant, which draws patrons for screened movies as much as it does for its delicious food. Gnocchi, pastas,
and pizzas all feature alongside seafood dishes and home-made ice cream.
CAHUITA Cha Cha Cha ) \\\
W of Cahuita Plaza Tel 2755-0476

A wide-ranging menu spans the globe at this charmingly rustic restaurant painted white with blue trim and lit by
candles and fairy-lights. Grilled squid salad, fajitas, and spicy coconut honey wings are typical appetizers. Entres
range from filet mignon to sea bass with shrimp and basil sauce. Service is relaxed to a fault.
GUCIMO Restaurant Ro Palmas ), \\
Hwy 32, 1 mile (1.6 km) E of Gucimo Tel 2760-0330

The special feature of this welcoming roadside restaurant are its forest trails good for spotting poison-dart frogs.
The menu features the standard Costa Rican fare, as well as international dishes. The dining is in the open air
beneath a red-tile roof, but is set back from the busy highway.
MANZANILLO Bar y Restaurante Maxi f) \
Manzanillo village Tel 2759-9086

This no-frills restaurant in a two-story wooden structure draws a young party crowd and is always lively, even at
lunch. Quality seafood snacks and dishes cooked Caribbean-style as well as filling tpico (typical) dishes are served,
including on the beach by request.
PLAYA COCLES La Pecora Nera : \\\\\
1 mile (1.6 km) E of Puerto Viejo Tel 2750-0490

An unpretentious yet world-class restaurant where mouthwatering gourmet Italian fare belies the offbeat locale.
Delicious gnocchis, bruschetta, pizzas, and calzones feature on the wide-ranging menu. The Italian owner-chef
Ilario Giannono and his family fuss over patrons. Closed Monday.
PUERTO LIMN Restaurante Brisas del Caribe : \\
Calles 0/1 and Ave 2 Tel 2758-0138

This clean and airy downtown restaurant, on the north side of Parque Vargas, is the best in town. It is known for
its seafood dishes but the locals flock there especially for its lunchtime casados and for its large buffet of tpico
fare, served cafeteria-style.
PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQU Stanfords \\\
On the beach, 100 yards (100 m) NE of the Hot Rocks intersection Tel 2750-0016
After a few years of decline, this venerable restaurant has been refurbished with livelier decor. It now offers a sea-
food menu featuring ceviche, garlic sea bass, and other local favorites. The open-air upstairs venue is a great spot
for watching the surfers tackling the salsa brava wave.
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Caf Rico : \\
50 yards (50 m) W of Casa Verde Lodge Tel 2750-0510

This rustic open-air caf in a two-story structure of rough-hewn timbers serves hearty, health-conscious breakfasts
and lunches on the palm-fringed ground floor. This is the place for granola with fruit and yogurt, sandwiches and
scrambles, or huevos rancheros (a breakfast favorite made with tortillas and eggs). Closed Thursday.
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Soda Miss Sams 7 \\
Two blocks SE of Hot Rocks on the main road Tel 2750-0108

Run by local senior citizen Hazel Miller on the porch of her home, Soda Miss Sams serves classic Caribbean cuisine,
such as rice and beans, as well as wonderful chicken and fish dishes. Diners should be aware that the casual, family-
style atmosphere means that service is inevitably slow.
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Salsa Brava :) \\\
E of Puerto Viejo village Tel 2750-0241

This informal rainbow-hued thatched restaurant has a lovely beachfront setting and an international menu featuring
ceviche (marinated raw fish or shellfish), Caesar salad with chicken teriyaki, ice cream sundaes, and sangra. The
Spanish owners provide filling portions. It has counter dining and a roadside patio. Closed Monday.
PUERTO VIEJO DE TALAMANCA Shawandha Lodge :) \\\\
Playa Chiquita, 3 miles (5 km) E of Puerto Viejo Tel 2750-0018

A delightful ambience pervades this classy restaurant attached to a romantic lodge (see p215). The Tico chef fuses
tropical flavors into tantalizing French-Caribbean dishes. A typical dinner might comprise avocado and palmito salad,
lobster la Normandie, and mango mousse.
TORTUGUERO Miss Junies \\
N of the public dock, Tortuguero village Tel 2709-8102

Named for a village matriarch who serves delicious Caribbean dishes, such as jerk chicken, and lobster in curry
and coconut milk, this restaurant is now enclosed and air-conditioned. Also on the menu are pan bon (bread laced
with caramelized sugar) and ginger cakes. Not open for breakfast. Reservations needed.
THE SOUTHERN ZONE
BAHA DRAKE Aguila de Osa Inn \\\
0.5 mile (1 km) S of Agujitas Tel 8840-2929

This circular, thatched restaurant of the Aguila de Osa Inn (see p216) is perhaps the best in the area, and most
dishes are filling and flavorful, albeit not gourmet. Seafood, including sushi, dominates the menu, which also
ranges to pastas. It has splendid bay views, best enjoyed from the relaxing sofas with a cocktail in hand.
CABO MATAPALO Lapa Ros :), \\\\\
9 miles (14 km) S of Puerto Jimnez Tel 2735-5130

A soaring palenque restaurant and an eclectic gourmet menu are signatures of this acclaimed ecolodge (see p216).
The chefs are locals trained to exacting standards. Pineapple honey ginger salad, coconut crusted fish, and delicious
coffee cake are typical of the rotating menu. Spiral stairs lead to a lookout with spectacular views.
CIUDAD NEILY Hotel Andrea :) \\\
23 miles (37 km) E of Golfito Tel 2783-3784

Set within a Colonial-style hotel (see p217) in the heart of town, this clean and well-run restaurant, open to the
tropical breezes, offers the best dining for miles. Breakfast is excellent, with huevos rancheros, pancakes with honey,
and more. The lunch and dinner menu offers international favorites, from onion soup to filet mignon.
DOMINICAL Confusione :f7, \\\
400 yards (400 m) S of the police station Tel 2787-0036

Attached to a mediocre hotel, this Italian restaurant delivers consistently delicious gourmet cuisine in an airy,
elegant setting. The creative dishes include penne with shrimps and capers in a vodka sauce. Live classical music
and acoustic guitar liven things up four nights a week.
DOMINICAL San Clemente Bar and Grill ) \\\
S of the soccer field Tel 2787-0055

This informal bar and grill serves American and Tex-Mex favorites, as well as seafood such as mahimahi with honey
and orange sauce. Owner Mike McGinnis makes his own searingly hot sauces. The lively bar is festooned with surf
boards, and has a pool table and sports TV. The place also runs a hostel a short walk away (see p217).
GOLFITO Le Coquillage :f) \\\
Hotel Centro Turstico Samoa, N of Pueblo Civl Tel 2775-0233

This airy restaurant at the Centro Turstico Samoa (see p217) encircles a bar in the shape of a ships prow. It offers
international favorites and a wide selection of seafood, including corvina al ajillo (garlic sea bass). Bar games
include pool, table soccer, and darts.
OJOCHAL Citrus :f7), \\\
200 yards (200 m) E of the Costanera Sur Tel 2786-5175

This sublime eatery, a sibling to Restaurant Extica (see below), raised the dining experience to new heights when
it opened in 2008. Stylish 21st-century decor provides an uplifting setting for award-winning fusion dishes. Musical
events include flamenco and belly-dancing. Closed Sunday and Monday.
OJOCHAL Villas Gaia ) \\\
Playa Tortuga, 0.5 mile (1 km) W of Ojochal Tel 2786-5044

Attached to the small Villas Gaia (see p218), this open-air roadside restaurant has colorful, casual decor, and a
vast international menu with a selection of soups, salads, and light snacks, as well as exotic cooked dishes, such
as macadamia-crusted fish fillet. The eatery features an extensive childrens menu, and Friday is tapas night.
OJOCHAL Restaurant Extica : \\\\
Ojochal village Tel 2786-5050

This small and intimate restaurant is acclaimed for its creative tropical nouvelle cuisine that draws upon the best
of Continental influences fish filet with banana curry sauce, for example. The outdoor candlelit dining offers
tremendous romantic appeal, and the wine list is extensive. Closed Sunday.
PUERTO JIMNEZ Restaurante Carolina : \
SE of the soccer field Tel 2735-5185

Located on the main street and popular with the backpacking crowd, this budget restaurant is the best breakfast
spot in town. It offers well-prepared and filling tpico (typical) dishes, including variations on gallo pinto, and
seafood served alfresco. International influences are present in the likes of chicken cordon bleu.
PUERTO JIMNEZ Juanitas Mexican Bar and Grill f) \\
SE of the soccer field Tel 2735-5056

Filling Tex-Mex fare and a genuine Mexican ambience in an atmospheric cantina (see p220) that is the liveliest
place in town. Choose from expected staples such as taco salads, burritos, and chimichangas (deep-fried burritos).
Entertainment includes hula hoop contests and live crab races, the fun being assisted by giant margaritas.
PUERTO JIMNEZ Perla de Osa :) \\
Iguana Lodge, Playa Platanares, 2 miles (3 km) E of Puerto Jimnez Tel 8848-0752
A colorful beachfront restaurant with hammocks and a delightful button-down, barefoot ambience. Dishes include
Caesar salad, empanadas (stuffed turnovers), and grilled chicken club sandwiches. It has pasta night on Fridays, with
live music as an accompaniment. The hardwood bar serves fresh fruit smoothies and exotic tropical cocktails.
SAN ISIDRO DE EL GENERAL Taquera Mxico Lindo \
Calle Central and Ave 2 Tel 2771-8222

Situated on the northwest side of the plaza, this Mexican restaurant offers a full menu of regional fare at exceptional
prices. The chef hails from Mexico, and the burritos, enchiladas, and vanilla flans are as authentic as anywhere in
Costa Rica. The place is festooned with piatas (papier-mch vessels) and other Mexican decor. Closed Sunday.
SAN ISIDRO DE EL GENERAL Caf Trapiche :), \\
Rancho La Botija, 4 miles (6 km) SE of San Isidro Tel 2770-2146

This rustic farmstead at Rancho La Botija (see p219) has endearing country decor, such as antique farm implements.
The simple menu of tpico and international dishes includes pastas, garlic sea bass, and steaks. It is open only for
breakfast and lunch.
SAN VITO Pizzera Liliana : \
NW of the plaza Tel 2773-3080

Splendid pizzas and other Italian staples attest to the heritage of the owners at this simple restaurant located in
the center of town. The cooking is homely rather than gourmet, and great value for money. Diners can eat alfresco
on a small patio.
UVITA Las Terrazas de Ballena \\\\
0.75 mile (1 km) NE of Uvita Tel 2743-8034

The sensational views are reason enough to dine here. Perched on a forested hillside, this open-air candelit
restaurant has a sumptuous Balinese-style lounge. Choose from burgers and sandwiches to such exotic dishes
as jumbo shrimp marinated in orange juice, ginger, and honey served with a sweet chili sauce.
ZANCUDO Oceano 7 \\\\
400 yards (400 m) S of Zancudo village Tel 2776-0921

Located in a popular beach village with few dining options, this tiny open-air restaurant stands out for its charming
diced-log tables. The live-in expatriate owners prepare burgers, huevos rancheros, and similar North American
staples, plus ice creams. There are special theme nights, plus a popular Sunday brunch.
SHOPPING IN COSTA RICA

F or many visitors, shopping is
one of the thrills of a trip to
Costa Rica. The range of
quality artesanas (crafts) has
grown rapidly in recent years, and
Baha Drake and Sarch leather
rockers, and city malls that
offer a vast choice of boutiques
and jewelry stores. Across the
country, bustling mercados
most hotels have stores selling (markets) are full of trinkets, piles
coffee, beautiful earthenware of spices and herbs, talabarteras
pottery in pre-Columbian style, (saddle-makers) and zapateras
handwoven hammocks, and sou- Saddle, Ciudad
Quesada
(shoe-makers), while colorful
venirs such as bowls and animal roadside stalls are piled high
figures made of exotic hardwoods. San with fruits and vegetables. Indigenous
Jos has several art galleries, craft stores crafts are increasingly appearing on the
that stock a range of products including market. Note that it is illegal to buy or
molas (reverse-appliqu cloth) from export pre-Columbian artifacts.
most stores accept VISA, and ART GALLERIES

to a lesser degree, MasterCard
and American Express, as San Jos has numerous art
well as US dollars. Credit card galleries selling paintings,
payments are sometimes sculptures, prints, and other
subject to a small surcharge. artworks by leading artists.
Torn dollar bills are usually Many of the best are found
refused by shopkeepers. Some in the area around Parque
shops accept travelers checks. Morazn (see p66) and Centro
A 13 percent sales tax will be Comercial El Pueblo, which
added to the cost of most has over a dozen galleries.
consumer goods in shops. Two good outlets are the
While leather goods are less Andrmeda Gallery and
expensive here than in most Kandinsky. For more avant-
other countries, in general garde art works, try Teortica,
prices are relatively high. in Barrio Amn, which has
Palm-leaf baskets and hats for sale Items in galleries and hotel a comprehensive selection,
at a roadside stall gift stores are sold at a fixed or Galera 1112, which is
price. However, a certain located in the upscale
OPENING HOURS amount of bargaining is western suburb of Escaz.
expected at craft markets and Many professional artists
Shops in San Jos are usually mercados. The local artisans live in Monteverde. Manco
open from 8am to 6pm, cooperative markets have Tulio Brenes sells his
Monday to Saturday. Large the best prices, and being lovely paintings and sculp-
US-style malls are open on government-regulated, ensure tures at Artes Tulio. In the
Sundays, but may close on that a large slice of the profit Caribbean lowlands, it is
Mondays. Outside San Jos, goes directly to the craftsman. worth dropping in at Patricia
many tiendas (shops) close In general, larger stores and Ericksons Gallery at Home
for lunch, typically between local export companies will (see p164), from where the
noon and 1:30pm. Shops in arrange to have purchases artist sells her vibrant
many tourist resorts remain shipped to the buyers home. Afro-themed paintings.
open all week long, often
until 9 or 10pm. Department
stores and supermarkets
everywhere stay open during
lunchtime and often into the
evening. Street markets and
mercados usually open at
around 6am and close by 2
or 3pm, although street stalls
often stay open late.
PAYING AND PRICES
Cash will be needed to pay

for goods bought directly
from craftsmen and at street
stalls and markets. However, Centro Comercial El Pueblo, San Jos
S H O P P I N G I N C O S T A R I C A 239
INDIGENOUS CRAFTS
Although Costa Rica does not

have as strong an indigenous
craft tradition as other Latin
American nations, it has many
unique handicrafts to offer
visitors. The Boruca tribe
of Reserva Indgena Boruca
(see p184) make balsa-wood
masks and bas-relief wall
hangings, available at a
discount if bought directly
from the artists. When buying
directly from the craftsmen,
bear in mind that their margin
of profit is usually quite low.
Many of the finest examples
of Boruca art are also avai-
lable in quality crafts stores
in San Jos, and at Coco Loco
Art Gallery and Caf (see p234)
in Chachagua near La
Fortuna. Coco Loco also sells
some fabulous contemporary
pottery and marble carvings
by leading artists.
Intriguing indigenous
pottery comes from Guaitl
(see p143), where ocher
Shelves of colorful objects in a San Jos craft store vases, bowls, plates, and
animals emblazoned with
CRAFT STORES (see p234) and Lucky Bug traditional Chorotega motifs
Gallery (see p150), are on are sold at the potters road-
The variety of artesanas the north shore of Lake Are- side stalls. Many venues also
available in Costa Rica is nal. A huge array of crafts sell the colorful hand-stitched
quite large. Quality craft are displayed at shops along molas of the Kuna Indians
stores sell a range of prod- Highway 21, not far from of the San Blas islands of
ucts, from woodworks, Liberias Daniel Oduber Panama. At Molas y Caf, in
which are created out of International Airport. Atenas, you can see Kuna
exotic hardwoods such In San Jos, the Boutique members at work.
as rosewood, ironwood, Annemarie, in the Hotel The two best commercial
and purpleheart, Don Carlos, has a outlets for indigenous arts and
to nature-themed fabulous array of crafts are Orinoco and Galera
books and tapes crafts at fair prices, Namu, which sells an excellent
to Guatemalan as does La Casona, selection of palm-leaf baskets,
weavings and a two-story building Boruca masks, Huetar carvings,
embroideries. with several stores and colorful, embroidered
The town of Toad Hall sign, selling a varied Guaym clothing.
Sarch (see p86) Lake Arenal range of Central
in the Central American crafts.
Highlands is the main Visitors who like browsing
source of crafts, and open-air markets should
produces leather rocking head to the Mercado de
chairs, handmade furniture Artesanas Nacionales. This
with bas-relief carvings, and artisans market houses a
brightly painted miniature broad range of craft stalls
carretas (oxcarts; see p87). under one roof. The most
Here, the Fbrica de Carretas concentrated crafts shopping,
Joaqun Chaverr has the however, is in the north-
largest and best selection eastern suburb of Moravia,
of crafts. Nearby, the Plaza where Calle de la Artesana
de la Artesana also has is lined with crafts stores.
several craft shops. Here, the Mercado de Arte-
Many store owners pride sana Las Garzas has several
themselves on seeking out dozen stores. Competition
the finest quality crafts. is intense, and bargaining Pottery wares lining a street in
Two such shops, Toad Hall is normal. Santa Ana, near San Jos
WOODWORKS (see p58), where it is roasted Barrio Mxico, northwest of

on the spot; ask for granos downtown San Jos. Ciudad
Popular items sold in stores puros (whole beans) rather Quesada (San Carlos) (see
specializing in woodwork than caf traditional, which is p154) is the best place to go
include figurines, kitchen coffee ground very fine and if you are looking for ornate
utensils, bowls, and jewelry mixed with sugar. saddles a wide variety is
boxes. Some of the finest available. It is worth keeping
wooden bowls and boxes are GARMENTS in mind that leather costs
produced by Barry Biesanz significantly less than in
Woodworks (see p75) it is Traditional Guanacasteco Europe or North America.
possible to buy directly from (from Guanacaste) dresses The capital city has several
his Escaz studio. Biesanzs and blouses, such as those cigar outlets, which stock
works have been gifted by worn by dancers of Fantasa Cuban cigars. The Cigar
the government of Costa Rica Folklrico (see p245), are Shoppe, in the city center; the
to many visiting dignitaries. sold at the Mercado Central Tobacco Shop, in the Centro
(see p58) in San Jos. Angie Comercial El Pueblo; and
Theologos makes colorful Casa del Habano, in the
jackets with Guatemalan San Pedro district, are recom-
cloth, while Fundacin mended. Dont buy cigars on
Neotrpicas Tienda de la the street; the boxed cigars
Naturaleza, in the suburb may look genuine, but they
of Curridabat, sells good- are almost always cheap
quality T-shirts. There are fakes. However, US citizens
no factory outlets selling dis- should note that it is illegal
Gold jewelry on sale, Museo del Oro counted designer clothes. for them to bring home
Precolombino store Cuban products, even if
OTHER SPECIALTY bought in Costa Rica.
JEWELRY STORES Beautiful orchids in sealed
vials are available at airport
Skilled goldsmiths craft The suburb of Moravia in gift shops and in various
exquisite jewelry using both San Jos is known for its botanical gardens such
modern designs and pre- leatherwork. Belts and as Jardn Botnico Lankester
Columbian motifs such as purses are an excellent buy, (see p93), near Cartago.
frogs and birds, often incor- as are cowboy boots, which Many artists produce stun-
porating semi-precious stones range in design from classical ning vidriera (stained glass).
such as lapis lazuli, onyx, and to trendy. A wide selection Good sources are Escazs
jade. It is best to buy from of cowboy boots is sold by Creaciones Santos and
reputable stores, such as San zapateras (shoemakers) in Rancho Leona (see p213).
Joss Esmeraldas y Diseos.
Most deluxe hotels and large
malls also have jewelry stores.
For good-quality jewelry in
14-carat gold, the Museo del
Oro Precolombino store (see
p63) is worth a visit. Items
sold at streetside jewelry stalls
are usually gold-washed,
not pure gold.
COFFEE
Several beneficios (coffee-

processing factories) are
open to visitors and will ship
bulk purchases of vacuum-
packed coffee. Among these
are the Caf Britt airport gift
stores and the Caf Britt
beneficio (see p92), which
has a well-stocked craft store.
Many regional varieties of
coffee are sold at hotel gift
shops, where traditional Costa
Rican coffee-strainers called
chorreadores are also often
available. Domestic-quality
coffee is sold at shops in
San Joss Mercado Central One of the many specialty leather stores in Costa Rica
Stalls selling fresh produce and other articles at Mercado Central, San Jos
MARKETS (summer shirts for men), and have ferias de agricultores

cowboy boots made of exotic (farmers markets) on week-
Every town has its mercado leathers. Town markets can ends, which sell all kinds
central (central market), be dark warrens, and quite of fresh produce. These
selling everything from cow- crowded, especially on usually start at dawn and
boy hats to medicinal herbs. Saturdays; shoppers should are frequented by locals.
Good buys at San Joss watch out for pickpockets. Malls are found only in big
Mercado Central include Not many shopkeepers speak towns. Mall San Pedro in San
embroidered guayabero shirts English. Most towns also Jos has many boutiques.
DIRECTORY
ART GALLERIES CRAFT STORES INDIGENOUS OTHER
CRAFTS SPECIALTY STORES
Andrmeda Gallery Boutique
Calle 9 and Ave 9, Galera Namu Casa del Habano
Annemarie
Barrio Amn, Calles 5/7 and Ave 7, Plaza Calle Rel,
Calle 9 & Ave 9, San Jos.
San Jos. San Jos. San Pedro, San Jos.
Tel 2223-3529. Tel 2221-6707. Tel 2256-3412. Tel 2253-4629.
Artes Tulio La Casona Molas y Caf Cigar Shoppe

Monteverde. Calle Central and Atenas. Tel 2466-5155.
Calle 5 and Ave 3,
Tel 2645-5567.
Ave Central, San Jos. Orinoco San Jos.
Centro Comercial Tel 2222-7999. Plaza Itzkatzu, Escaz. Tel 2257-5021.
El Pueblo Tel 2288-2949.
Mercado de Arte- Creaciones
Barrio Tournon.
JEWELRY Santos
Tel 2221-9434. sana Las Garzas
Calles 1/3 and Ave 3,
Galera 1112 Calle 8 and Ave 2 bis, Esmeraldas y
San Miguel de Escaz.
Plaza Itzkatzu, Moravia. Diseos
Tel 2228-6747.
Escaz. Sabana Norte, San Jos.
Tel 2236-0037.
Tel 2288-1975. Tel 2231-4808. Tobacco Shop
Mercado de Arte- Centro Comercial
Kandinsky
GARMENTS
Centro Comercial, sanas Nacionales El Pueblo, San Jos.
Calle Real, Calle 11 and Ave 4, Angie Theologos Tel 2223-0873.
San Pedro, San Jos. San Pedro, San Jos.

San Jos.
MARKETS
Tel 2234-0478. Tel 2225-6565.
Plaza de la
Teortica Tienda de la Mall San Pedro
Artesana Ave Central and
Calle 7 and Aves 9/11, Naturaleza
San Jos. Sarch Sur, Sarch. Ave Central, Curridabat. Circunvalacin,
Tel 2233-4881. Tel 2454-3430. Tel 2253-1230. San Jos.
What to Buy FORBIDDEN ITEMS

With a wide selection of quality items sold Objects made from
in shops and galleries throughout the various protected species
country, there is no shortage of mementos are commonly sold at
to take home. Hand-crafted objects made local markets. It is illegal
to buy anything made
from tropical hardwoods, such as bowls, from turtle shells, furs
boxes, and kitchen articles, as well as such as ocelot and jaguar
Wall hanging aromatic coffee beans and coffee products skins, or feathers of
of various kinds, are must-buys. Ceramics quetzals and other
are excellent, as is jewelry, particularly gold necklaces endangered bird species.
and pendants that replicate pre-Columbian designs. Conservation groups also
T-shirts with wildlife motifs, and cuddly sloths, curling discourage buying items
snakes made of wood, and other such toys, are made of coral, as well
as framed butterflies.
popular choices.
HANDICRAFTS
Costa Ricas skilled artisans are concentrated in Sarch,
famous for its miniature oxcarts painted in gaudy patterns
and colors, and for homespun rocking chairs of wood
and leather. Dozens of artisans studios produce a
dizzying variety of crafts, which find their way into stores
throughout the country. Moravia, near San Jos, is
another center of crafts, particularly leather goods.
Leather Goods
Cowboy boots, purses, and attach
cases exude quality and are rela-
tively inexpensive. Those made of
caiman and snake skins should be
avoided for conservation reasons.
Wooden bowl and spoons Painted wooden box
Colorful wooden
Carved box earrings Hand-painted miniature
oxcart
Wooden Items
Costa Ricas precious hardwoods yield a wealth of objects. They include
statuettes, animal figurines, carved boxes, and notably, lathe-turned
bowls, some thin enough to be transparent when held up to the light.
Brooch
Hammocks Jewelry
Hammocks made of colored Delicate brooches,
hemp rope, in a variety of necklaces, and earrings
designs, are sold on the sea in 14-carat gold, often Pearl
shores. Roomy two-person in combination with earrings
models are also corals and semi-precious
available. stones, are popular.
Street hawkers sell bright
necklaces of shells,
hardwoods, and seeds.
Necklace in
gold and semi-
precious stone
Seed
necklace
INDIGENOUS CRAFTS
Items made by Indian tribes can be
bought at quality craft stores and,
preferably, in indigenous reserves
where income goes directly to the artists.
Traditional weavings, carved gourds,
painted masks, and musical instruments
are often imbued with spiritual symbols.
Carved Gourds
Decorated with wildife
motifs, carved gourds
are lightweight and
can be used as vases.
Painted mask
Devil Masks
Made of balsa wood,
these masks made by
Ocher Pottery the Boruca tribe
Pottery adorned with traditional Chorotega should be bought
motifs are produced in Guaitl, using traditional directly from the
firing methods. Pots, plates, and vases of varying carver. Other indige-
shapes and sizes can be bought at roadside stalls Boruca nous wooden goods
and cooperatives throughout Guanacaste. mask include wall hangings.
COFFEE
Coffee products range from
gourmet roasted whole
beans to coffee liqueurs. Be
sure to buy export-quality
coffee, as coffees sold for
the domestic market are
often of inferior quality
and, if sold pre-ground,
Coffee liqueur Organic A regional variety Chocolate-coated adulterated with large
coffee of coffee coffee beans amounts of sugar.
SOUVENIRS
All manner of trinkets, utensils, and miscellaneous
artistic creations are for sale at gift stores nation-
wide, from candles to stained-glass pendants.
Typically, they are emblazoned with images of
wildlife or rural scenes. The store at San Joss
international airport has a good selection.
Bright brooch Candle
Ceramic plate Painted metal jug Stained-glass item

ENTERTAINMENT IN COSTA RICA

C ultural activities and live
entertainment in Costa Rica
have traditionally been
somewhat restrained by the
standards of many other Latin
cities usually have theater spaces
and glorietas (bandstands) where
live musicians perform. Music
festivals are staged both indoors
and outdoors, and country fairs
American countries. Nonetheless, called feras are in full swing year-
Ticos have a tremendous love of round. Every town has numerous
music and dance, and recent discos, and karaoke bars are pop-
years have witnessed a blos- Guanacaste ular with lower-income Ticos.
National Band
soming of entertainment venues. poster Entertainment in country towns
Nightlife, especially in San Jos, revolves around topes (horseman-
is excitingly diverse. Theater and ship shows) and retornos (rodeos) that
classical concerts are an integral part of spill onto the streets with traditional live
San Joss social life, and even smaller music and dance.
INFORMATION THEATER which doubles as a lively

cultural center and has a
A calendar of major events is Costa Rica has a long tradition jazz club and movie theater.
carried in Spanish and English of producing great theater, The Teatro Eugene ONeill,
on the website of the Instituto and Josefinos are passionate located inside the Centro
Costarricense de theatergoers. San Cultural Costarricense-Norte-
Turismo (Costa Rican Jos has several americano (Costa Rican-North
Tourism Institute, small theaters, American Cultural Center),
or ICT; see p256). which offer also hosts theater perfor-
The website also has everything from mances, plus monthly musical
addresses of theaters, mainstream and concerts on weekends.
nightclubs and similar experimental theater,
venues. Tico Times to comedy and CLASSICAL MUSIC,
(see p263), which Costa Rican puppet shows, at BALLET, DANCE,
is available in many Tourism affordable prices. AND OPERA
hotels, also provides Institute logo Most productions
listings of artistic are in Spanish and Costa Ricas middle class are
events and entertainment, are typically restricted to enthusiastic lovers of classical
as do the Tiempo Libre ThursdaySunday evenings. music. The nations foremost
and Viva sections of the Mime performances are the venue for classical and ballet
La Nacin daily newspaper. main attraction at Teatro performances is San Joss
San Jos Volando is a free Chaplin. The countrys oldest Teatro Nacional (see pp60
monthly publication that con- theater company, the English- 61). It was inaugurated to
tains information about live language Little Theatre great national pride in 1897
concerts, shows, nightclubs, Group, performs at the with a performance of El
and other entertainment. Teatro Laurence Olivier, Fausto de Gournod by the
The opulent interior of the auditorium of Teatro Nacional

E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N C O S T A R I C A 245
A lively traditional dance in progress in Pueblo Antigua, San Jos
Paris Opera. The theater repertoire of contemporary TRADITIONAL MUSIC

hosts the Orquestra Sinfnia and classical works.
Nacional, founded in 1970, It is advisable to book in Rather limited in form and
which performs a series of advance, which you should style, the countrys popular
concerts each year between do directly with the venue music is a more restricted
April and December. It also or event organizers. version of the marimba
holds performances by the cultures of Nicaragua and
Compaa de Lrica Nacional JAZZ Guatemala. The marimba
(National Lyric Opera (xylophone), quijongo
Company), the countrys only Jazz clubs have grown in (single-string bow with gourd
opera company, from June number in recent years, and resonator), and guitar provide
to August. The companies jazz trios play in several hotel the backing for such
feature many of the worlds lobbies and bars. The main traditional folk dances as the
best-known works in their venue is San Joss Jazz Caf, punto guanacasteco, the
repertoires. International a red-brick structure with a national dance (see p247).
orchestras and singers classic bohemian ambience. Live marimba music is per-
also perform in the Teatro Leading international perform- formed at ferias, a few tourist
Nacional. Evening performers such as Chucho Valds venues, and city plazas on
ances at the theater are and Irakere have played here. weekends. A good place to
considered an occasion In 2008, a second Jazz Caf experience traditional music
to dress up for. Prices in opened in Escaz. San Joss and dance is Pueblo Antigua
the galeria (galleries) are jazz buffs also frequent the (see p75). Indigenous commu-
generally below $5, Shakespeare Gallery in the nities perform ritual dances
depending on the particular Sala Garbo, which hosts live accompanied by drums,
performance in question. jazz on Monday evenings. rattles, and ceramic flutes.
Theater production in Costa
Rica has a long tradition,
boosted in the early 1900s
when a number of South
American dramatists settled
here, and drama was intro-
duced to the high school
curriculum. The Teatro Mlico
Salazar (see p58) stages
drama, musicals, classical
concerts, and occasional
performances of traditional
Costa Rican singing and
dancing. The theater is also
the principal venue of Costa
Ricas Compaa Nacional
de Danza (National Dance
Company), a world-class
organization founded in 1979,
which has an extensive The Teatro Mlico Salazar, one of San Joss popular cultural venues
24 hours. The most popular

games are craps, tute (a
version of poker), canasta,
which resembles roulette,
and veinte un (21), a variant
of blackjack. Visitors should
be aware that the odds are far
more favorable to the house
than they are in the US.
DANCE SCHOOLS
Many visitors come to

Costa Rica to learn to dance.
Several reputable academias
de baile (dance schools)
offer residential courses
where you can pick up
some fancy foot skills in
hip-swiveling cumbia,
merengue, salsa, and
Dancing the night away at a beach resort nightclub whatever the latest Latin
dance craze may be. Most
NIGHTCLUBS AND DISCOS central San Jos, mostly classes are typically in
cater to an older foreign Spanish. The well-known
San Jos and key tourist clientele, including the citys Merecumb has several
resorts have swanky dance large number of expatriate schools in San Jos and
clubs. Many of the best residents. Take care with major highland cities.
nightclubs are associated whom you interact in this
with leading hotels, and locality, and always use FESTIVALS
several larger beach resorts taxis at night.
feature discos. Less sophisti- Most of the clubs dont Costa Ricas annual calendar
cated venues are everywhere, begin to liven up until mid- is full of festivals, large and
catering to the dance-crazy night, and many dont close small (see pp347). Many of
Ticos. The predominant music until dawn. Attire is usually them celebrate the countrys
is Latin: cumbia, salsa and, quite casual, with jeans diverse cultures, such as the
especially, merengue, often permitted; shorts are Fiesta de los Diablitos (see
interspersed with reggae generally not allowed, p184) of the Borucas and
and world-beat tunes. except at beach resorts. Puerto Lmons extravagant
In San Jos, the well-to-do Caribbean-style Carnaval
can be found at the various CASINOS (see p165). Costa Ricas
bars and clubs along San best-known music festivals
Pedros Avenida Central, and Costa Rica has dozens of include the nationwide
in San Rafael de Escaz. casinos, concentrated in International Festival of
Planet Mall, popular with the capital city. They are Music, which is held at
teenagers, claims to be the mostly associated with large, half a dozen venues through-
largest disco in Central expensive hotels. Several out the country. Many of the
America. A more down-to- casinos are clustered in the towns in Catholic Costa Rica
earth and always crowded infamous Gringo Gulch. honor their patron saints on
option is El Cuartel de la Some casinos are open specific days of the year.
Boca del Monte, with an
earthy atmosphere, eclectic
patrons, and live music by
many of Costa Ricas leading
bands. Several discos and
bars can be found in the
warren of alleyways com-
prising El Pueblo, while the
Los Yoses and San Pedro
districts have many bars and
clubs catering to students
and well-off young Ticos.
Calle de la Amargura (Street
of Bitterness), leading to the
university, is lined with
student bars, and draws few
foreigners. Bars in Gringo
Gulch, a red-light area of A Caribbean-style performance in a resort in Guanacaste
E N T E R T A I N M E N T I N C O S T A R I C A 247
THE PUNTO and international movies,

which are usually subtitled
GUANACASTECO in Spanish. Dubbed films
The national dance is the are advertised with the
punto guanacasteco, a toe- phrase hablado en espaol.
and-heel dance performed in International art-house movies
traditional regional costumes. are shown at Sala Garbo.
The women wear white Costa Rica has no major
bodices and colorful frilly cinema industry of its own.
satin skirts. The men wear
white shirts and pants, satin PEAS
sashes, and cowboy hats. The
slow, twirling baile tpico San Joss intellectuals enjoy
(typical dance) features the peas (circles of friends),
tossing of hats and scarves, bohemian get-togethers that
as males interrupt the pro- evolved from Latin Americas
ceedings in turn to shout Leftist revolutionary move-
rhyming verses aimed at Dancers performing the punto ment of the 1970s. Poetry is
winning over a love interest. guanacasteco recited and plaintiff nueva
trova music is performed at
peas, also called tertulias.
Nationally, the most CINEMA They are leading outlets for
important religious festival experimental music and lit-
is the Da del Virgen de los Most cities have cinemas, erature by such avant-garde
ngeles, which is celebrated although those in smaller performers as Esteban Monge
in Cartagos Basilica de towns are often ramshackle. and Canto America. Typical
Nuestra de los ngeles (see San Jos and other large cities venues are private homes
pp945) in August. Nicoyas have modern multiplex cine- and cafs. An active venue
Fiesta de la Yeguta (see mas up to the standards of is Teortica, a hip art gallery
p142), held in December, North America and Western that hosts literary readings,
is one of the nations most Europe. Cinepolis and others round-table discussions,
colorful regional festivals. show first-run Hollywood and other cultural events.
DIRECTORY
THEATER AND CLASSICAL MUSIC, Plaza Itzkatz, DANCE SCHOOLS
CULTURAL BALLET, DANCE,
Autopista Prospero Merecumb
CENTERS AND OPERA
Fernndez, Escaz. Tel 2224-3531.
Compaa de Tel 2288-4740. www.merecumbe.net
Centro Cultural
Costarricense- Lrica Nacional www.jazzcafecostarica. FESTIVALS
Norteamericano Tel 2222-8571. com
www.mcjdcr.go.cr/ International
San Pedro, San Jos.
NIGHTCLUBS AND Festival of Music
Tel 2225-9433. musica/compania_lirica.
Tel 2282-7724.
html DISCOS
www.cccncr.com www.costaricamusic.com
Compaa Nacional El Cuartel de la
Little Theatre CINEMA
de Danza
Group Boca del Monte
Tel 2222-2974. Cinepolis
Tel 8355-1623. Calles 21/23 and Ave 1,
www.mcjdcr.go.cr/ Autopista a Cartago,
www.littletheatregroup. San Jos. Tel 2221-0327. San Jos.
artes_escenicas
org Tel 2278-9356.
Orquestra Sinfnia El Pueblo Sala Garbo
Teatro Chaplin
Nacional Ave Central, Barrio Calle 28 and Ave 2,
Calles 11/13 and Ave 12,
Tel 2221-9417. San Jos.
Tournn, San Jos.
San Jos. Tel 2222-1034.
www.osn.go.cr
Tel 2221-0812. Tel 2221-9434.
www.teatrochaplin.com JAZZ $ info@ccelpueblocr. PEAS

com Teortica
Teatro Laurence Jazz Caf
Calle 7 and Aves 9/11,
Olivier Calle 7 and Ave Central, Planet Mall
San Jos.
Calle 28 and Ave 2, San Pedro, San Jos. Mall San Pedro, San Jos. Tel 2233-4881.
San Jos. Tel 2223-1960. Tel 2253-8933. Tel 2280-4693. www.teoretica.org
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES AND

SPECIALTY VACATIONS
T he varied terrain, salubrious reserves. Costa Rica is also well-geared
climate, and diversity of wilderness for biking and horseback riding. Both
reserves in Costa Rica combine to coasts offer fabulous surfing, and wind-
afford a wealth of outdoor activities.
Some of these, which have been
surfing is world class, with dedicated
facilities at Lake Arenal and Baha
spawned by the tourist boom of Salinas. Whitewater rafting is
the past two decades, are highly developed, while
unusual canopy tours, for scuba divers and anglers
example, are a staple of the are in for a treat. Wherever you
rain- and cloud forest reserves. are in the nation, the great
Others are more conventional. outdoors is close at hand.
Ample opportunities for hiking A handy resource is Costa Rica
are provided by the trails that lace Sign, Outdoors, a bimonthly publi-
the superb national parks and Playa Flamingo cation available nationwide.
natural habitats. Protected the advantage of easy access

areas continue to be created and an assortment of attrac-
to link individual parks and tions, including beautiful
reserves with the purpose of beaches (see pp11819).
creating uninterrupted migra- Parque Nacional Cahuita, on
tory corridors for wildlife. The the Caribbean coast, features
national parks and reserves similar attractions (see p170).
are organized into conserva- Parque Nacional Chirrip
tion areas administered by (see pp18081) and Parque
the SINAC (Sistema de Areas Nacional Rincn de la Vieja
de Conservacin/System of (see p132) offer fabulous
Conservation Areas), which mountain hiking Rincn
is a division of MINAE has the added enticement of
(Ministerio de Ambiente fumaroles and boiling mud
y Energa/Ministry of pools. Guided boat tours make
Atmosphere and Energy). the rainforests and swamps of
La Amistad, covering an area Parque Nacional Tortuguero
The range of activities offered at of 749 sq miles (1,940 sq km), accessible (see p167). A more
Selva Verde Lodge is the largest national park challenging but no less
(see p179). This is also the rewarding destination is
ORGANIZED TOURS most remote and inaccessible Parque Nacional Corcovado,
one, and hiking can be perhaps the nations premier
A Plethora of tour operators challenging. The most visited rainforest environment (see
in Costa Rica cater to visitors park is Parque Nacional p191). Reserva Biolgica
interested in particular activ- Volcn Pos, which lies within Bosque Nuboso Monteverde
ities. Companies offering a a 2-hour drive of San Jos is the top cloud forest reserve
range of specialized tours and has the most developed (see p127). A useful source
include Costa Rica Expeditions, facilities (see p90). Also of information on various
Costa Ricas Temptations, popular is Parque Nacional reserves is Fundacin de
and Costa Rica Sun Tours. Manuel Antonio, which offers Parques Nacionales.
Operators dedicated to a
specific activity are listed in
the relevant subsection.
NATIONAL PARKS AND

WILDLIFE RESERVES
Costa Rica has about 190

national parks, wildlife
reserves, and related protect-
ed areas, with a combined
area of almost 6,000 sq miles
(15,500 sq km). Dozens
of other privately owned
reserves protect additional Boat tour in Parque Nacional Tortuguero
O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S A N D S P E C I A L T Y VA C AT I O N S 249
explore the most remote other lowland rainforest

terrain. Many trails are well reserves may come across
marked and easy to hike, bands of aggressive wild pigs
while others provide a rugged called peccaries. If threat-
challenge to even the most ened, climb a tree and wait
experienced hikers. Librera until the animals depart.
Universal and the Instituto Otherwise, the best bet is
Geogrfica Nacional sell usually to stand still: most
detailed topographic maps. charges are bluffs.
The majority of trails are Lightweight yet sturdy
associated with the national waterproof hiking shoes are
parks and wildlife reserves, essential, as is a water bottle
Bird-watchers in Parque Nacional where facilities are usually and a backpack with room
Manuel Antonio restricted to the ranger for a waterproof jacket with
stations and/or private lodges hood. Apart from suncreen
WILDLIFE-VIEWING near the entrances. Many of and insect repellent, other
the larger parks have only recommended items are a first
Viewing animals and birds basic huts, sometimes a full aid kit, as well as a flashlight
in the wild is the prime days hike from each other and spare batteries. Pack your
attraction for the majority hikers will need to be self- gear in a plastic bag before
of visitors to Costa Rica. Its sufficient in terms of camping placing it in your backpack
easily done, even without equipment and food. Always to ensure that it remains dry.
visiting protected reserves, as inquire about the distance to Clean up the campsite before
wildlife is literally everywhere the next hut, and the difficul- leaving only footprints
outside city limits. Morpho ty of the hike. You will need should be left behind.
butterflies, toucans, monkeys, to get permission to camp
and coatis can be seen from anywhere other than at CANOPY TOURS
your hotel porch, depending designated campsites. For
on location. However, most overnight hikes, always With its soaring trees and
species are well disguised or report to a ranger station at deep valleys, it is no surprise
reclusive, and spotting them the beginning and end of that Costa Rica has dozens of
often requires a combination your trip. Permits and local canopy tours to whisk you
of patience and planning. guides are essential for certain between treetops and across
Hiring a naturalist guide is hikes, such as those across gorges (see pp245). Zipline
recommended their trained the remote Talamancas. tours provide an adrenalin-
eyes and knowledge of where Look out for venomous packed ride, but dont
and when to look for certain snakes never leave your expect to see much wildlife.
species will greatly increase tent or cabin door open (see The Original Canopy Tour
your success rate. Guides can p259). Hikers in Parque has four locations around
be hired through Costa Rica Nacional Corcovado and the country.
Expeditions, which also offers
nature trips of its own. A
particularly good way to view
wildlife is to take a natural
history cruise aboard a small
ship, with daily excursions
ashore. Leading companies
include Cruise West and
Lindblad Expeditions.
On a nature trip, dress in
greens and browns to blend
in with the surroundings.
Silence is imperative.
Bring a pair of binoculars.
Laminated spotters charts
are available at book- and
souvenir stores. Companies
specializing in birding
include Horizontes.
HIKING
For those who like to

experience nature on foot,
Costa Rica is a dream come
true. Thousands of miles of
trails traverse the countryside,
offering opportunities to Zipline canopy tour, Arenal Rainforest Reserve
In the Nicoya Peninsula, the

leading greens are at the
Four Seasons Resort (see
p208) and Paradisus Playa
Conchal Beach & Golf Resort
(see p210). The best of the
Central Highlands courses are
at the Cariari Country Club
and Parque Valle del Sol.
Many hotels and beach
resorts have tennis courts
available free of charge
to guests. Non-guests are
usually allowed to play
on these courts for a fee.
WHITEWATER RAFTING
AND KAYAKING
Costa Ricas high rainfall and

mountain terrain combine to
provide ideal conditions for
whitewater rafting (see p102).
The Reventazn and Pacuare
Rivers of the Central High-
lands are renowned, but
every region has world-class
whitewater. Tumbling from
the countrys highest mountain,
Horseback riding on one of Costa Ricas many beaches Ro Chirrip (Class III IV)
creates dozens of explosive
HORSEBACK RIDING Biking Adventure, in Costa rapids. It merges with
Rica, are two reputable Ro General (Class IIIIV),
With its farming tradition and outfits. Most international known for its challenging
widespread use of horses, airlines will let you bring your rapids. Ro Corobic (Class
Costa Rica affords numerous own bicycle as checked III) is fed by dam-released
opportunities for equestrian luggage, if properly packed. waters and flows between
pursuits. Tour operators and Costa Ricas rugged terrain tree-lined banks in the heart
hotels can make all the is particularly suited to moun- of Guanacaste. It offers a float
necessary arrangements for tain biking, and Ticos (Costa perfect for families, as wild-
rides, which are usually on Ricans) are enthusiasts of the life is plentiful and easily
the small, mild-tempered sport. Several hotels and seen. Ro Savegre (Class
local criollo horse. local tour agencies rent moun- IIIV) flows out of the moun-
Guanacaste province has tain bikes and offer short tains of the Central Pacific.
several ranches specializing mountain-biking excursions. The steep upper section is
in horse riding. Hacienda a demanding thriller; the
Guachipeln is an excellent GOLF AND TENNIS river slows lower down as
location, as is the Buena Vista it passes through African
Lodge (see p211). Other good The country has six 18-hole oil palm plantations.
places are Bella Vista Lodge courses, as well as four The rafting industry is
in Escaleras (see p217), and 9-hole ones. Additional well developed and regulated,
Club Hpico La Caraa, which courses are in the offing. and operators conform to
is situated near to Escaz.
CYCLING
Touring the country by

bicycle is an excellent way
to meet local people and to
enjoy the spectacular scenery.
However, many roads are
potholed and cycling in high-
land areas requires caution
due to fog, blind bends, and
speeding traffic. Several com-
panies specialize in bicycle
tours: Backroads, in North
America, and Costa Rica The serene Parque Valle del Sol golfing greens
free of charge. However, there

is no shortage of surf shops at
key surf spots such as Tama-
rindo, Jac, and Puerto Viejo
de Talamanca. Playa Pavones
(see p192) is another excellent
location, but you will need to
bring your own equipment.
Dedicated surf camps give
their own meaning to the
term bed and board.
Baha Salinas (see p130)
and Laguna de Arenal (see
pp15052) are marvelous
for windsurfing, thanks to
consistently high winds.
Kayaking in Lake Angostura, Both have windsurf centers.
near Turrialba Fishing yacht anchored at
SPORTFISHING Baha Drake
international standards. Life
jackets and helmets are The challenge of landing a streams, particularly on the
mandatory. Trips cost between world-record catch draws northern slopes of the Tala-
$70 and $100 per day, includ- hundreds of anglers to Costa mancas. Laguna de Arenal
ing transport, meals, and Ricas waters every year. Most is renowned for massive
equipment. Overnight trips sportfishing is on a catch-and rainbow bass; Rain Goddess
involve camping or stays release basis. The Pacific offers fishing trips here
at remote riverside lodges. coast (see p117) is (see p152). Permits
Numerous companies offer fabulous for deep-sea required for fresh-
rafting trips, including Ros fish, such as sailfish, water fishing are
Tropicales. Take sunscreen tuna, dorado, and organized by the
and suitable attire. A warm swordfish. Marlin are operators. Several
jacket for mountain runs is the big prize: the fish sportfishing lodges
a good idea. Expect to get run off Nicoya in cater exclusively to
wet pack a set of dry NovemberMarch; the anglers. Boat charters
clothes and shoes. central and southern offered from sportfish-
Sea kayaks are an ideal Pacific are best in ing centers, such as
means of exploring the man- AugustDecember. Flamingo, Quepos,
grove systems of the coasts. On the Caribbean Tamarindo, Golfito,
One of the major rafting side, anglers use light Sportfishing and Zancudo, typically
operators, Ros Tropicales, tackle in rivers, lakes, charter sign cost $250400 for
also features trips on kayaks. and lagoons to hook a half day and $350
Various other nature tour tarpon, snook, and garfish. 650 for a full day. Fishing
operators offer kayaking trips, Cao Negro, as well as the tackle is sold and rented at
and many resort hotels rent rivermouths of the San Juan La Casa del Pescador. Excellent
kayaks for exploring sheltered and Colorado Rivers, feature sources of angling informa-
bays. With luck, dolphins some of the worlds best tar- tion are Club Amateur de
may appear alongside. If pon fishing: the best time is Pesca and local fishing
you plan on kayaking alone, DecemberMarch. Trout fish- expert Jerry Ruhlows weekly
The Rivers of Costa Rica: A ing is popular in mountain column in the Tico Times.
Canoeing, Kayaking and
Rafting Guide, by Michael
W. Mayfield and Rafael E.
Gallo, is indispensable; it is
available from San Joss
7th Street Books.
SURFING AND
WINDSURFING
Thousands of visitors flock to

Costa Rica each year to ride
the waves that wash ashore
along both the Pacific and
Caribbean coastlines. Some of
the best surfing beaches are in
Northern Nicoya (see p137).
Most airlines permit you to
check a surf board as luggage Surfing on the high waves off Playa Jaco
Scuba Diving in Costa Rica

The warm waters off Costa Rica Pacific side; and Gandoca-Manzanillo
provide splendid opportunities for and Cahuita on the Caribbean. Marine
divers. The countrys prime site is turtles and moray eels can be spotted
Isla del Coco, which offers some of everywhere. Other commonly seen
the worlds finest scuba diving for large marine creatures include
seeing marine animals. Other dive manta rays, grouper, tuna, jewfish,
spots include the Murcilagos and several types of sharks and
Islands in Northern Nicoya; the whales. However, visibility is less
coral reefs of Playa Manuel than high at most dive sites, espe-
Antonio, Parque Nacional Ballena Scuba cially during the rainy season when
Marina, and Isla del Cao on the diver river runoff clouds the oceans.
Getting ready While

for a dive underwater,
involves careful it is wise to
checking of swim in a
all equipment, group so as
especially the to assist each
breathing other in times
apparatus. of need.
Starfishcan be seen creeping Tropical fish of varied hues Corals, generally poorly developed in
slowly atop the reefs. and shapes inhabit the waters. Costa Rica, are at their most colorful here.
ISLA DEL CAO

This island boasts the largest coral formations in Costa Rica, Several angelfish species,
attracting a rainbow of tropical fish. Also seen here are octo- such as king, queen, and
pus, sea horses, and starfish. Dolphins cavort in near-shore French angelfish, are found
waters. Diving trips are offered from Baha Drake (see p190). around Isla del Cao (see p184).
At Punta Gorda, Isla del Coco (see p193) is said to Islas Murcilagos, the most
off Playa Ocotal, scuba be a site of hidden gold, but its favored dive site in the
divers are sure to see a vast real treasure lies underwater, northwest, is renowned for
number of eagle rays flap and includes huge schools of white tip sharks, marlin, and
past. Also seen are golden hammerhead sharks. Accessed by other giant pelagics. Several
rays, as well as stone fish live-aboard boats, this is only for outfitters in Playas del Coco
and sea horses. experienced divers. (see p136) offer trips.
SWIMMING one, do not struggle against

the current or try to swim to
Most large hotels, and many shore: this will quickly
smaller ones, have swimming exhaust you. Swim parallel to
pools. Ocean water the shore to exit the current.
temperatures typically range Avoid swimming near river
between 25 and 30C estuaries, where crocodiles
(7787F). However, extreme may lurk, and in ocean waters
caution is required when off beaches where marine
swimming in the oceans: turtles nest, as sharks are
Costa Rica averages about often present. Divers about to go underwater off
200 drownings a year due to Costa Ricas Pacific coast
riptides. These fast-moving SCUBA DIVING
water currents are typically operators based at Playa
associated with beaches with Almost all the beach resorts Ocotal and Playas del Coco,
high volumes of incoming near the prime dive sites respectively (see p136).
surf and where retreating have scuba operators. You Trips to Isla del Coco, for
water funnels into a narrow can rent or buy gear here, experienced divers, are
channel that can drag you and at Mundo Aqutico, in offered aboard the Okeanos
out to sea. Many of the most San Jos. El Ocotal Diving Aggressor, which sails from
popular beaches have rip- Safaris and Rich Coast Diving Puntarenas on 8-, 9-, and
tides. If you get caught in are two respected dive 10-day voyages.
DIRECTORY
TOUR OPERATORS WILDLIFE-VIEWING CYCLING 7th Street Books
Calle 7 and Ave Central/1,
Costa Rica Cruise West Backroads
San Jos.
2301 Fifth Ave, Suite 401, 801 Cedar St, Berkeley,
Expeditions Tel 2256-8251.
Seattle, WA 98121, USA. CA 94710, USA.
Calle Central/2 and Ave 3, $ marroca@racsa.co.cr
Tel (888) 851-8133. Tel (510) 527-1555.
San Jos. Tel 2257-0766. www.cruisewest.com www.backroads.com SPORTFISHING
www.costaricaexpeditions.
Horizontes Costa Rica Biking Club Amateur
com
Tel 2222-7022. Adventure de Pesca
Costa Rica Sun Tours www.horizontes.com Miraflores (Guadalupe), Tel 2232-3430.
Edificio Cerro Chato, San Jos. www.clubamateur
Lindblad
La Uruca, San Jos. Tel 2225-6591. pescacr.com
Expeditions
www.bikingincostarica.
Tel 2296-7757. 96 Morton Street, New La Casa del
com
www.crsuntours.com York, NY 10014, USA. Pescador
Tel 212-765-7740. GOLF Calle 2 and Ave 16/18,
Costa Ricas www.expeditions.com San Jos.
Temptations Cariari Country Tel 2222-1470.
PO Box 1199-1200, HIKING Club
San Jos.
Tel 2293-3211. SCUBA DIVING
Instituto Geogrfica www.clubcariari.com
Tel 2508-5000. Nacional El Ocotal Diving
www.crtinfo.com Calles 9/11 and Ave 20,
Parque Valle del Sol Safaris
Tel 2282-9222. Tel 2670-0321 (ext. 120).
San Jos.
NATIONAL PARKS www.vallesol.com
Tel 2523-2630. www.ocotaldiving.com
AND WILDLIFE
RESERVES WHITEWATER Mundo Aqutico
CANOPY TOURS
RAFTING AND 109 yd (100 m)
Fundacin de Original Canopy KAYAKING N of Mas X Menos,
Parques Nacionales Tour San Pedro, San Jos.
Ros Tropicales
Tel 2291-4465. Tel 2224-9729.
Barrio Escalante, San Jos. Tel 2233-6455.
www.canopytour.com $ mundoac@racsa.co.cr
Tel 2257-2239. www.riostropicales.com
www.fpncostarica.org
Okeanos Aggressor
HORSEBACK RIDING BOOKSHOPS Tel 800-348-2628.
SINAC www.aggressor.com
Club Hpico Librera Universal
Calle 25 and Ave 8/10, La Caraa Rich Coast Diving
Calles Central/1 &
San Jos. Tel 2248-2451. Tel 2282-6754. Ave Central, San Jos. Tel 2670-0176.
www.sinac.go.cr www.lacarana.com Tel 2222-2222. www.richcoastdiving.com
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION 256263

TRAVEL INFORMATION 264271
256 S U R V I VA L G U I D E
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
C osta Rica has a superb
tourist infrastructure,
especially in the realm
of ecotourism and adventure
travel. It is possible to visit all
towns and beach resorts,
travel agencies and tour
operators double as tourist
information bureaus. Most
Costa Rican tour operators
but the most remote parts of are extremely professional.
the country with relative ease However, many aspects
by a rented vehicle or public A poster advertising the of day-to-day life in the
transport. Rarely will visitors nations attractions country are slow and often
be far from tourist facilities. National bureaucratic. A degree of patience
tourist offices are found only in the and flexibility is required to help cope
capital city; in many of the smaller with some of the frustrations.
WHEN TO GO passport valid for six months reproductions. Items covered

from the date of travel, a under the Convention on
Weatherwise, Costa Rica return or onward ticket, and International Trade in
is best visited in the dry adequate finances for the Endangered Species (CITES)
season between December duration of their stay. You are also prohibited; these
and April (confusingly called will be issued a tourist card include certain bird feathers,
summer by Ticos), before on arrival. Valid for 90 days, objects made of tortoiseshell,
the rainy (or green) season it can be extended at a furs, and non-farmed
begins. However, regional migracin (immigration crocodile and reptile skins, as
variations (see p38) need to office) in any major city. well as live animals and birds.
be considered as well the
Caribbean and southwest CUSTOMS INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION
Pacific can receive torrential
rains year-round. Besides their personal Brochures and maps are
The wet season is also the belongings, visitors to Costa distributed free of charge
hottest time of the year, and Rica are allowed to bring in by the ICT (Instituto Costarri-
can be torrid, especially in 500 cigarettes and 6 cense de Turismo)
Guanacaste. Many dirt roads pints (3 liters) of wine bureaus at the two
become impassable. How- or spirits. You may international airports
ever, prices are lower than also bring in a (see p264) and in San
during the dry high season, personal computer, Jos. They can also
when many hotels are also two video cameras provide personalized
booked solid. and/or still cameras, assistance. Outside
and six rolls of film. the capital, visit local
VISAS AND PASSPORTS (The film restriction tour agencies for infor-
is rarely enforced.) Tour sign in mation. Backpacker
Citizens of Australia, Canada, It is illegal to buy Monteverde hostels, hotel tour
the USA, and western or export any archeo- desks, and some web-
European countries do not logical artifacts, and harsh sites are other good sources.
need visas to enter Costa penalties are imposed on
Rica. All visitors need a violaters. Buy only certified OPENING HOURS
National parks are typically

open daily from 8am to 4pm.
Museum opening hours vary,
with many museums being
closed for lunch and on
Monday. For opening hours
of banks and shops, see
pages 260 and 238.
LANGUAGE
The official language of Costa

Rica is Spanish, spoken
relatively slowly, without a
Castilian lisp. Virtually all
Costa Ricans working in the
tourist industry speak English,
A local tour agency in the surfing hotspot, Jac as do most people in banking
Stationary motorboats along one of Costa Ricas many forest-backed beaches
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M A T I O N 257
DIRECTORY
CONSULATES
Canada
Oficentro Ejecutivo La Sabana,
Edificio 5, Sabana Sur, San Jos.
Tel 2242-4400.
UK
Centro Coln, Paseo Coln,
Calles 38/40, San Jos.
Tel 2258-2025.
www.britishembassycr.com
USA
Casually dressed locals at a restaurant in Dominical Boulevard a Pavas, San Jos.
Tel 2519-2000.
and other services. However, is useful for evenings in the http://sanjose.usembassy.gov
for anyone traveling off the highlands, and elsewhere in
beaten track, a basic know- air-conditioned buildings. TOURIST INFORMATION
ledge of Spanish is a distinct Carry an umbrella and
advantage. waterproof wear year-round. ICT
The Maleku, Bribri, Cab- Evening wear is seldom E of Juan Pablo II Bridge, Autopista
car, and Guaym retain their required except at upscale General Caas, San Jos.
traditional languages, but most nightclubs and restaurants. Tel 2299-5800.
of Costa Ricas indigenous However, business people
peoples also speak Spanish. dress smartly. For formal Websites
meetings and church visits, www.visitcostarica.com
SOCIAL CUSTOMS men should not wear shorts www.costaricaexpert.net
or T-shirts and women should
Courtesy is greatly valued avoid revealing clothing.
in Costa Rica. On greeting Costa Rica is a tolerant DISABLED TRAVELERS
someone, it is normal to nation but some conservative
shake hands or kiss on one attitudes still prevail. Nudism Some airports and newer
cheek. Use proper titles such is not allowed, and topless hotels (see p199) and
as seor, seora, and seorita. sunbathing is frowned upon. restaurants have wheelchair
The honorifics Don and ramps and adapted toilets.
Doa are used for people WOMEN TRAVELERS Few wildlife parks have
of social and political impor- wheelchair-accessible trails
tance. Young Ticos generally It is generally safe for women or toilets, although the
use first names upon initial to travel alone. Some males situation is improving.
introduction. Older people are apt to offer piropos
are more formal and may (unsolicited compliments TIME
continue to use titles until and sexual advances) to
a friendship develops. women they pass on the Costa Rica is 6 hours behind
Quedar bien (to appear street. Saying that you are Greenwich Mean Time (GMT)
well) is a Costa Rican form married will usually put an and 1 hour behind New
of behavior intended to leave end to unwanted flirtation. Yorks Eastern Standard
a good impression, but which Time (EST), and does not
can involve making false have daylight saving time.
promises and declarations
simply to please the listener. ELECTRICITY
Its a good idea to ask more
than one person for directions. Electrical current is 100 volts
Ticos are tolerant of (60 cycle) the same as in
homosexuality, although overt the US and Canada. However,
public displays of affection many hotels in remote areas
between members of the same generate their own power,
sex may provoke strong reac- with a nonstandard voltage.
tions, especially in rural areas. Three-prong, polarized, and
European two-pin plugs will
WHAT TO WEAR need adapters. Power surges
are common, and a surge
Light and casual cotton and protector for laptops is a
synthetic clothes are ideal for wise investment. Power
Costa Ricas tropical climate. Women travelers at a stall by the outages occur in some
A windproof jacket or sweater entrance to PN Manuel Antonio parts: carry a flashlight.
Personal Security and Health hitchhike. If you are a victim

of serious crime, contact the
Generally a safe destination, Costa Rica OIJ, or the OIJs Victim
has a reputation for neutrality and stable Assistance Office.
democracy, which can lull visitors into a
sense of security that may occasionally LOST AND STOLEN
PROPERTY
prove to be false. Tourists can be targets
for theft, scams, and violent crime, and it In the event of loss or theft
Police Department
is wise to take basic safety precautions. of belongings, inform the
badge, San Jos The nation has a relatively advanced police within 24 hours you
health system, and you will rarely be will need an official report
far from medical assistance in times of need. Venomous for your insurance. If your
snakes and other potentially harmful creatures inhabit passport is lost or stolen,
the wilds, while dangerous riptides and the suns contact your embassy or con-
sulate (see p257) immediately.
powerful tropical rays are among the natural hazards Loss or theft of credit cards
that require some precautions. should be reported to the
relevant company (see p260).
STREET HAZARDS
Pedestrians do not have the

right of way in Costa Rica and
extreme care is required
when crossing roads. Always
look both ways, even on
one-way streets, as buses
are allowed to travel in both
directions on many roads, and
the direction of traffic some-
times changes during certain
hours. Be careful at junctions
too, as many drivers disobey
Police station in Costa Ricas major sportfishing center, Quepos stop signs and red lights.
When walking, keep your
POLICE belongings unattended. Its eyes open for deep holes
best to store valuables in your and uneven sidewalks.
The police force has become hotel safe. Make copies of
more professional in recent your passport and important NATURAL DISASTERS
years, and officers are documents and keep them in
usually polite and willing to a safe place. Be especially Costa Rica has its share of
help tourists. The standard cautious of scams involving natural calamities, but they
police uniform is dark blue. your rental car (see p269), are not a regular occurrence.
Trnsitos (traffic police) and of anyone offering If theres an earthquake, move
patrol the highways and use unsolicited assistance of any away from tall structures and
radar guns to catch speeders. kind. Women should avoid electricity poles. Do not use
Bicycle police, wearing dark and isolated areas. Never elevators. If you are in a
white shirts and blue shorts,
patrol major cities and
tourist centers.
Attempts by individual
police officers to extract
mordidas (bribes) are now
relatively rare. To make a
complaint against any officer,
note his or her name and
badge number and report to
the Organizacin de
Investigacin Judicial (OIJ).
GENERAL PRECAUTIONS
Visitors should be aware of

their surroundings at all times,
especially on city streets.
Avoid wearing jewelry in
public and leaving your Trnsito (traffic police) car parked by a street in San Jos
building, the safest place to including many drugs that DIRECTORY

be is usually in a doorway require a prescription in the
and not under stairways. Its a US, Canada, and European EMERGENCY NUMBERS
good idea to keep a countries. However,
flashlight and shoes visitors with pre- All Emergencies
near your bed at night. diagnosed conditions Tel 911.
Obey all instructions should bring med-
at volcanic parks, such ications. The Rojo OIJ
as Pos and Arenal. Cruz (Red Cross) has Tel 2222-1365.
Never hike in restricted Red Cross an ambulance service in
zones. Arenal is espe- logo major cities and tourist OIJs Victim Assistance
cially volatile and visits centers. In remote areas, Office
to the immediate area you may find it quicker to Tel 2295-3643.
notably Tabacn (see p148) take a taxi to the nearest
are always risky. clinic or hospital. Police
Beware of riptides, which
Tel 127 or 2222-1365.
are strong currents that drag HEALTH HAZARDS
swimmers out to sea (see Rojo Cruz
p253). Flash floods are com- It is easy to underestimate
Tel 128 or 119.
mon during heavy rainfall, the power of the tropical sun.
when waterfalls and rivers Sunscreen and hats are
are to be avoided. recommended for the out- HOSPITALS
doors. Drink plenty of fluids
VACCINATIONS AND to guard against dehydration. Hospital Clnica Bblica
INSURANCE High humidity and heat may Tel 2522-1000.
cause heatstroke, with symp-
No specific vaccinations are toms of thirst, nausea, fever,
required to enter Costa Rica. and dizziness; if this occurs, other wild animals require
Malaria is prevalent along the consult a doctor. Wash and immediate medical attention.
southern Caribbean coast, dry clothes often to prevent Do not panic, and avoid
and antimalarial medication prickly heat and athletes foot. too much movement.
is recommended for this area. Cover up well and use Shun tap water if possible,
It is wise to be immunized plenty of insect repellent to and follow basic precautions
against diseases such as avoid diseases such dengue with food (see p221) to avoid
typhoid as well as hepatitis fever a viral illness spread diarrhea and parasitic infec-
A and B, and to make sure by mosquitoes that tions such as giardiasis. For
your polio and tetanus has no vaccination or diarrhea, drink lots of bottled
vaccinations medication. Symp- water, and see a doctor if the
are up to date. toms include fever, condition becomes chronic.
Travel insurance is a headaches, and joint
good idea, as public pains, usually lasting PUBLIC AMENITIES
health care is not about 10 days, after
always adequate and which a month-long Public toilets are virtually
treatment in private Mosquito coil and recovery is normal. nonexistent, and the few
hospitals and clinics insect repellent Insect repellents and that are available are gen-
can be expensive. espirales (mosquito erally unclean. However,
coils) can be bought locally. most ranger stations in
MEDICAL TREATMENT Treat minor insect bites with national parks have toilets,
antihistamines. If the bites as do restaurants and hotels
Residents are served by the become infected, seek the elsewhere. Carry toilet paper.
state-run Instituto de Seguridad advice of a local doctor. Bites
(INS) hospitals, which also by poisonous snakes and
provide an emergency service
to visitors for a nominal fee.
Most public hospitals are well
run, albeit overcrowded, but
rural clinics are often poorly
equipped. Private hospitals
such as Hospital Clnica Bblica
in San Jos conform to North
American and European
standards. Hotels usually
have a list of reliable doctors,
as will your embassy.
Farmacias or boticas
(pharmacies), numerous
in cities nationwide, sell
medicines over the counter, Exterior of a farmacia (pharmacy) in Cartago
Banking and Currency DIRECTORY

The unit of currency in Costa Rica is the coln, BANKS
but US dollars are widely accepted throughout the
country, and most large hotels, restaurants, and shops Banco de Costa Rica
take major credit cards. Travelers checks can also be Calles 4/6 and Ave 2,
used at some businesses in major cities and tourist San Jos.
resorts. Foreign currencies, other than the dollar, are Tel 2284-6600.
generally not accepted, but larger banks will exchange
them for colones. Most tourist hotels will also change Banco Nacional
money, although the exchange rate is usually more Calles 2/4 and Ave 1, San Jos.
favorable at banks. It is wise to have small denomi- Tel 2212-2000.
nation dollar bills, as many store keepers may not
have sufficient change for $50 and $100 bills; others LOST CARDS AND
may not accept them, as counterfeit dollar bills are in TRAVELERS CHECKS
circulation. There is no limit to the amount of money
you may bring in or take out of the country. Barclays Bank
www.barclays.com
MasterCard
Tel 0800-011-0184.
www.mastercard.com
Thomas Cook
www.thomascook.co.uk
VISA
Tel 0800-011-0030.
www.visa.com
have casas de cambio

(foreign exchange bureaus).
All other casas de cambio
were outlawed several years
Offices of the Banco de Costa Rica ago. Avoid money-changers
on the street many tourists
BANKS AND CHANGING aware of your surroundings, are swindled by these touts.
MONEY and avoid counting your
money in public. TELEGRAPHIC TRANSFERS
The largest banks are the Most banks in cities and
state-run Banco de Costa some tourist centers also have Electronic money transfers
Rica, Banco Nacional, Banco foreign exchange counters, can be arranged via
de San Jos, Banco offering more or less the Moneygram or Western Union
del Comercio, and Banco same rates of exchange, to their agents throughout
Popular, all of which have which may change daily. Costa Rica. Money can be
branches throughout the The countrys two interna- made available within min-
country. Several major foreign tional airports and the major utes of the transaction, but a
banks have branches in San border crossings (see p265) large commission is charged.
Jos. Banks are usually open
only on weekdays: state-run
banks are typically open
from 9am to 3pm and private
banks from 8am to 4pm.
Avoid bank visits on Friday,
which is payday for many
Costa Ricans. In rural areas,
you may have to wait in line
for a considerable time to
transact any business.
Many of the bigger banks
have cajeros automticos
(ATMs), which accept major
bank and credit cards to
withdraw colones, usually
for a fairly large fee. When
drawing cash from ATMs, be A Western Union agency in Santa Elena
Your home bank can also bank at home, or via the are now fewer places in
transfer money to its banking websites of Thomas Cook and Costa Rica that are willing
partner in Costa Rica, but this Barclays Bank. These checks to accept travelers checks
type of transaction usually are generally more because banks
takes a few days. secure than credit here often put a
cards: in the event hold of up to a
CREDIT CARDS AND of loss or theft, month on these
TRAVELERS CHECKS you can claim a checks while
refund on show- Logo of a credit card dispersing funds
The most widely accepted ing the check company to creditors.
cards are VISA and receipts, which
MasterCard, and to a lesser should therefore CURRENCY
extent, American Express and be kept separate from the
Diners Card. It is possible to checks themselves. The Costa Rican currency
use your VISA card to obtain Travelers checks can be is the coln, symbolized
cash advances at banks, but exchanged for cash at banks by , and often called a peso.
few accept MasterCard for for a small commission. Money is sometimes collo-
this purpose. Many hotels will You will need to show your quially referred to as plata or
also offer cash advances on passport and sometimes a pista by Costa Ricans. Always
your credit card. second photo. They can also carry some small denomi-
Travelers checks can be be used for purchases in nation coins and bills for tips
purchased from your local some shops. However, there and minor purchases.
Bank Notes
Bank notes are in denominations of
1,000, 2,000, 5,000, and 10,000 colones,
which are nicknamed cinco teja (five
limes), rojo (red), dos rojos (two reds),
tucn (toucan), and jaguar respectively.
1,000 colones
2,000 colones
5,000 colones
10,000 colones
Coins
Costa Rican coins come in denominations
of 5, 10, 20, 25, 50, 100, and 500 colones.
Coins minted earlier are in silver; newer
ones are golden in color. Loose change is
sometimes called menudo.
5 colones 10 colones
25 colones 50 colones 100 colones 500 colones

Communications be used with any phones,

including cellular, and require
Telecommunications in Costa Rica you to key in the number 197
are highly developed, and the or 199, followed by an indi-
telephone and email are the most vidual PIN number found on
widely used means of communi- the back of each card. The
cation, not least because the postal 197 cards, sold in denomina-
tions of 500 and 1,000 colo-
Costa Rican post
service is slow and untrustworthy. nes, are used for domestic
office logo The state-owned Instituto Costariccense calls, while international
de Electricidad (ICE), which controls calls are made using the
all telecommunications, provides a free email account 199 cards, which are available
to every citizen. Ticos are large-scale users of mobile in denominations of $10, $20
telephones, although reception is erratic in many areas. and 3,000 colones.
As well as receiving international channels, Costa Rica The ICEs regional offices
in towns offer phone services.
has 12 local television channels and several radio Most cities and tourist centers
stations. There are three major Spanish newspapers have international telephone
and a few English-language publications. bureaus, which charge higher
rates than public phones but
TELEPHONE CALLS 5, 10, and 20 colon coins, are cheaper than using a hotel
but most require CHIP tarjeta phone. If calling from a hotel,
Public telephone kiosks are telefnico (phone- it is cheaper to call
usually located on main city cards), named for the operator at
streets and in plazas in smaller the metallic chip international tele-
communities nationwide. In each card carries. phone companies
remote villages, which rely on Available in such as AT&T,
public telephones, they are denominations of Sprint, and World-
often found at the local pulp- 1,000 and 2,000 Logo of Costa com, and get the
era (grocery store); some- colones, they can be Ricas ICE call charged to your
times it is necessary for the purchased at super- credit card. Many
owners to place your call and markets, stores, and banks. Internet cafs offer free Skype.
charge you by the minute. A Tarjeta Colibr 197 cards and Generally, visitors from
few public phones still accept Tarjeta Viajero 199 cards can North America can use their
mobile phones in Costa Rica.
However, phones from Europe
USING A PUBLIC CHIP TELEPHONE cannot usually be used. Mobile
phones are useful to have
when traveling in wilderness
1 Lift the receiver and wait for
the dial tone. The display
will indicate that you should
2 Once the phonecard is
inserted, the current value areas, but the coverage is not
total due to the rugged terrain.
of the card will be indicated
insert your phonecard. on the digital display.
DIALING CODES
Costa Rican telephone
3 Key in the number 1 for
instructions in Spanish,
or 2 for instructions in English.
numbers have eight
digits; there are no
area codes.
Costa Ricas country
4 Key in the number you
want to dial. While you
are dialing, the number
code is 506.
you are calling will appear For international calls,
on the display. Once you dial 00 followed by the
are connected, the decrea- country code, then the
sing value of your card will area code and number.
be displayed.
Country codes are:
Australia 61; Ireland
353; New Zealand 64;
5 When you finish your call,
replace the receiver. Your
phonecard will be ejected.
South Africa 27; UK 44;
USA and Canada 1.
To make a collect call,
dial 110 (domestic)
or 116 (international)
for the operator. Dial
113 for information.
Phonecard used in International operators
public telephones speak English.
service such as DHL. You DIRECTORY

can receive mail poste
restante at the main post TELEPHONE
office in San Jos (see p59). COMPANIES
Postboxes tend to be
found at post offices only. AT&T
Postcards and letters can Tel 0800-011-4114.
be left with the front desk
of major hotels. Sprint
Tel 163; 0800-013-0123.
COSTA RICAN
ADDRESSES Worldcom
Tel 0800-014-4444.
Although most towns
are organized into TELEGRAMS
numbered avenidas and
calles (streets), few build- Radiogrfica
ings have numbers, Costarricense
scarcely any household or Calle 1 and Ave 5,
business lists its address,
San Jos.
and seldom do people
know their own specific Tel 2287-0515.
street address. Mail www.racsa.co.cr
deliveries are, therefore,
usually made to apartados COURIER SERVICES
An Internet caf in La Fortuna (post office boxes). The
government has attempted DHL
FAX, TELEGRAM, to introduce a numbered Calles 30/32 and Paseo Coln,
AND EMAIL street system, but progress San Jos.
has been slow.
Tel 2209-6000.
Hotels in Costa Rica usually
permit you to send faxes RADIO AND TELEVISION
for a small fee. International NEWSPAPERS
telephone bureaus also offer The majority of the tourist
fax service, as do many post hotels offer in-room TV Casa de las Revistas
offices. You can send service, although this is not Calle 5 and Ave 3/5, San Jos.
telegrams from major ICE true for wilderness lodges Tel 2256-5092.
offices, and from Radio- and budget cabinas. Upscale
grfica Costarricense hotels usually have cable or
(RACSA), in San Jos. satellite service, with leading
Internet cafs are found in US stations such as CNN and
every town and even in many MTV and some key
small villages. Large hotels European stations, as well as
usually have business centers, Costa Ricas 12 TV stations,
and most modern ones also which broadcast in Spanish.
have Wi-Fi and/or rooms Large business hotels also
with broadband connections, offer pay-per-view films, as
enabling you to plug in your well as their own channels,
laptop computer. RACSA which provide travel and A man reading a newspaper on a
operates a monopoly on hotel information for guests. park bench in Turrialba
local Internet servers, and The country has more than
the service can be slow 100 radio stations, which NEWSPAPERS
and erratic. mainly broadcast solely in
Spanish. Radio Paladin Costa Ricas three big
MAIL SERVICE (107.5 FM) features music and Spanish-language daily
news in Spanish and English. newspapers La Nacin, La
Most towns and villages Prensa, and La Repblica
have oficinas de correos are sold at streetside stalls,
(post offices), which are hotel gift stores, and a few
usually open from newsagents, which are found
8am to 4pm, Monday to only in major cities. The Tico
Friday. However, the Times is an English-language
mail service is slow and weekly covering news, envi-
inefficient, and sub- ronment, arts and culture, and
ject to theft. Important other facets of Costa Rican
documents or valuable life. Casa de las Revistas
items should be sent via Costa Rican stamp advertising the outlets, found in bigger cities,
an international courier nations scenic beauty sell international magazines.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
T he majority of visitors to
Costa Rica arrive at San
Joss Juan Santamara
Inter national Airport, near
Alajuela. The number of inter-
regional airstrips, and buses of
varying quality operate in
virtually every part of the
country. Rental vehicles are a
practical alternative to public
national flights landing at transport and grant maximum
Liberias Daniel Oduber Inter- freedom. Nearly all places in
national Airport is increasing, the country are within a days
and most major US carriers land Tourist bus laden
with luggage
drive of San Jos. Road con-
here. Costa Rica is also served ditions, however, vary from
by bus companies, and many visitors well-paved to muddy dirt tracks. The
journey overland from the Americas by extensive highway system is dilapidated
car. Cruise ships berth on both the in parts, and driving can be a challenge
Pacific and Caribbean coasts, bringing in certain areas of the country, especially
passengers on day excursions. Costa in the wet season. Costa Ricas train
Rica has a well-developed trans- service is limited to commuter trains in
portation system. Small planes serve San Jos and Heredia.
make your booking just prior

to departure, you may have
to pay full price and, in
addition, you run the risk that
flights may be sold out, espe-
cially during the dry season.
Airlines compete very
aggressively with one another,
and it pays to compare all the
companies fares; also check
their websites for special
deals and weigh them against
fares available at travel web-
sites such as Expedia, Orbitz,
and Travelocity.
APEX fares, which have to
be bought at least 21 days in
Aircraft at San Joss Juan Santamara International Airport advance, are usually much
lower than regular fares, but
ARRIVING BY AIR Condor have charters from penalties apply for changes,
the Netherlands and Germany. and refunds are rarely given.
Scheduled direct flights to Other carriers connect to Round-trip tickets offer sub-
Costa Rica are offered by Miami flights. There are no stantial savings over one-way
leading US airlines, including direct flights from Australia fares. Mid-week travel usually
Delta, American Airlines, or New Zealand, but costs less than weekend
United, JetBlue, Spirit Air- passengers can transfer in travel, as does a fixed-date
lines, and US Airways. Grupo Los Angeles to a return. Charter
Taca, the regional airline of connecting flight. flights are often
Central America, has Timetables cheaper than
scheduled flights from six are subject to A welcome sign at scheduled
cities in the US. Services are constant change: an airlines office flights, although
either direct, or routed via it is advisable to more restrictions
gateways such as Dallas or contact the airline or apply. Also note that inter-
Miami, while others make a travel agent for up-to- national air tickets are expen-
one or more stops en route date information. sive to buy in Costa Rica.
in El Salvador, Mexico City, If you are interested in a
or Managua. Both Air Canada FLIGHT PRICES particular type of vacation,
and Grupo Taca offer service such as a beach holiday,
from Canada. Ticket prices to and from consider air-and-hotel pack-
From Europe, Air France Costa Rica vary greatly and ages offered by charter air-
and Iberia operate direct change frequently. In general, lines and many tour operators.
scheduled flights, while the earlier you buy your These inclusive vacations
British Airways connects ticket, the easier it is to obtain usually work out cheaper
via Miami. Martinair and a reduced rate fare. If you than independent travel.
T R AV E L I N F O R M A T I O N 265
ARRIVING BY LAND
There are three border

crossings for vehicles,
located at Peas Blancas
(between Costa Rica and
Nicaragua), and Paso Canoas
and Sixaola (both between
Costa Rica and Panama).
In addition, pedestrians can
cross to/from Nicaragua at
the town of Los Chiles. If
youre driving between the
US and Costa Rica, allow
at least two weeks for the
2,300-mile (3,700-km)
journey. Transit permits and
insurance can be arranged
through Sanborns. Rental Driving along a deserted road in Costa Rica
cars may not be taken
across borders. ARRIVING BY SEA particular activity. Nature-
Many visitors enter and oriented trips geared toward
leave Costa Rica by bus. Several cruise ships include bird-watching and other
Companies such as Transnica Puerto Caldera (on the wildlife-viewing are especially
and Ticabus provide interna- Pacific) and Puerto Limn popular. Other special-interest
tional bus services between (Caribbean) on their itineraries, vacations include bicycling,
various Central American and allow passengers to dis- whitewater rafting, kayaking,
countries. Another option is embark for day-long excur- sportfishing, surfing, scuba
to cross the border on foot sions. You can also leave the diving (see pp24853).
and catch onward buses on cruise and remain in Costa Costa Rica Experts and
the other side. Be sure to Rica for a longer stay. Costa Rica Connection in
take care of your personal North America and Journey
belongings on cross-border ORGANIZED TOURS Latin America in the UK
bus trips. feature a range of special-
Visas are not required to Several companies in interest vacations, as well
enter either Nicaragua or Europe and North America as tour arrangements that are
Panama, which issue tempo- offer organized tours to Costa customized for individual
rary tourist visas at the border. Rica, often focusing on a visitors or groups.
DIRECTORY
AIRLINES Grupo Taca FLIGHT PRICES ORGANIZED
Tel 1-800-400-8222. TOURS
Air Canada www.taca.com Expedia
Tel 1-888-247-2262. www.expedia.com Costa Rica
www.aircanada.com Iberia Connection
Tel (34) 902-400-500. Orbitz 1124 Nipomo St,
Air France www.iberia.com www.orbitz.com Suite C, San Luis Obispo,
Tel (33) 0820-320-820.
JetBlue CA 93401.
www.airfrance.com Travelocity Tel 800-345-7422.
Tel 800-539-2583.
www.travelocity.com www.crconnect.com
American Airlines www.jetblue.com
Tel 1-800-433-7300. Costa Rica Experts
Martinair ARRIVING BY LAND
www.aa.com 3166 N Lincoln Ave, Suite
Tel (31) 206-011-767.
British Airways www.martinair.com Sanborns 424, Chicago, IL 60657.
Tel 0844-493-0787. Tel 773-935-1009.
Spirit Airlines Tel 800-222-0158. www.
www.british-airways. www.costaricaexperts.
Tel 800-772-1717. sanborninsurance.com
com
co.uk www.spiritair.com
Ticabus Journey Latin
Condor United Tel 2248-9636. America
Tel (49) 0180-5-707202. Tel 1-800-864-8331.
www.ticabus.com 12 Heathfield Terrace,
www.condor.com www.united.com
London W4 4JE.
Delta US Airways Transnica Tel 020-8747-8315.
Tel 800-321-1212. Tel 800-428-4322. Tel 2223-4242. www.journeylatin
www.delta.com www.usairways.com www.transnica.com america.co.uk
Getting Around Costa Rica LOCAL BUSES AND

TERMINALS
Despite the countrys compact
size, land travel can take More than a dozen private
considerably longer than visitors companies offer local bus
might imagine. Air travel offers a service, linking San Jos to
relatively economical and easy towns and villages nation-
Local bus terminal way of reaching remote regions. wide. Bus service between
Internal flights are especially convenient for visitors on large cities is almost always
aboard comfortable air-condi-
a tight schedule and for those who wish to concentrate tioned buses with reclining
their sightseeing on two or three attractions spaced far seats. Shorter trips between
apart. Traveling around by bus is a practical and less smaller towns and villages
costly alternative. Buses can be combined with local are typically on older, more
jeep-taxi services to visit the more isolated spots. Reach- basic second-class buses.
ing some sights involves the use of a ferry or boat There are two types of
service. For information on driving, see pages 2689. intercity travel: directo buses
offer fast, often nonstop,
service, while corriente, or
normal service, is slower, with
more stops en route. The
government-regulated fares
are rarely more than $10.
Advance reservations are
recommended for intercity
travel. Arrive well ahead of
your departure to secure
a good seat. Travel with as
little baggage as possible, and
avoid bus travel on Fridays
and Saturdays, when demand
peaks. The ICT (see p256)
publishes a bus schedule.
Rural buses can be waved
A small airplane ready for takeoff in Tortuguero down at paradas (bus stops)
along their routes.
DOMESTIC FLIGHTS seasons, and during the In most towns, the bus
DecemberApril dry season. terminal usually a busy
Scheduled domestic flights Private companies offer and confusing place is
from San Joss international on-demand charter service close to the main plaza.
airport are offered by Sansa, to airstrips nationwide using Some towns have several
a subsidiary of Grupo Taca. 4- to 8-seater aircraft. You bus terminals. There are two
The company links the capital need to charter the entire main bus terminals in San
with 16 domestic airstrips, aircraft, including for the Jos, with additional bus
using 22- and 35-passenger return journey, if no addi- stations dispersed downtown.
Cessnas. Its published tional passengers sign up. Buses to the Caribbean leave
itineraries change frequently The baggage allowance from Gran Terminal Caribe,
and are not 100 percent is 22 lb (10 kg) for Sansa, and to most other parts of
reliable. A slightly superior and 25 lb (11 kg) for Nature the country from bus stops
service is offered by Nature Air. This is considerably less concentrated in an area
Air, which flies to the same than for international flights, called Coca Cola, which is
destinations from Tobias and you should plan your located west of downtown.
Bolaos domestic airport, baggage accordingly. The Coca Cola terminal has
about 1.2 miles (2 km) west
of Parque Sabana in San Jos.
Airplane tickets can be
purchased through travel
agents and tour operators,
or directly from the airlines.
Nature Air offers childrens
discounts. Note that the
timetables vary between
wet and dry seasons (see
pp349). Reservations
should be made as far in
advance as possible, espe-
cially for travel during the
peak Christmas and Easter A public bus in the tourist hub of La Fortuna
DIRECTORY
AIRLINES
Nature Air
Tel 2299-6000.
www.natureair.com
Sansa
Tel 2229-4100.
www.flysansa.com
BUS COMPANIES AND

TERMINALS
A colectivo (pickup truck) heading for Puerto Jimnez
Grayline
a reputation for pickpockets TAXIS AND CAMIONES Tel 2220-2126.
and muggings: be on your www.graylinecostarica.com
guard in this area. Taxis gather around the
central plazas in most towns, Interbus
BUSES FOR TOURISTS and can also be summoned Tel 2283-5573.
AND ORGANIZED TOURS by phone. Licensed taxis are www.interbusonline.com
red (or orange for airport
Some bus companies cater taxis) and have a white Tuasa
to the tourist market. Direct triangle showing the license Ave 2 and Calles 12/14,
bus service linking the most number on the front door.
San Jos.
popular tourist destinations Fares are regulated
is offered by Interbus and for journeys under 9 miles Tel 2222-5325.
Grayline, which also has (15 km); the rates for
shuttles between San longer journeys TAXIS
Jos and Juan are negotiable.
Santamara Never take a Coopetaxi (San Jos)
International private, unli- Tel 2235-9966.
Airport. Interbus Local taxi censed taxi many
offers door-to-door tourists have been
pick-up and drop-off. robbed by the drivers or their BOATS AND FERRIES
Grayline has discounts for accomplices. Jeep-taxis serve
children and seniors. Juan many communities where Car and passenger ferries
Santamara International Air- local roads are mountainous link Puntarenas with Naranjo
port is also served by Tuasa or unpaved. The most remote and Paquera, in Nicoya. Small
buses, which operate between communities and tourist boats also offer water-taxi
Alajuela and San Jos. destinations are also served service between Puntarenas
Sightseeing tours on offer by camiones or colectivos and Paquera, Jac and
give excellent overviews of usually open-bed pickup Montezuma, and Sierpe
the nation or specific regions; trucks with seats and and Baha Drake, along the
others specialize in nature- awnings. They follow fixed Tortuguero Canal, and
viewing and other activities. routes, and can be flagged throughout Golfo Dulce.
Leading operators include down anywhere along the Visitors can also go on trips
Costa Rica Expeditions and route. Colectivos normally on tour- or hired boats along
Costa Ricas Temptations charge a flat fee, regardless Costa Ricas many rivers,
(see p253). of distance. canals, and swamps.
Passengers waiting to board a boat at Isla Tortuga

Traveling by Car is barely enough room to

do so, or driving too close
Getting around by car is the most behind the vehicle in front
flexible way of exploring Costa Rica, (tailgating). Costa Rican
as it grants easy access to some of the drivers often use their left-
License plate turn signal to indicate to
countrys most remarkable scenery. Roads
drivers behind that they are
between towns are usually paved, although even newly free to overtake. Be careful in
laid roads rarely survive a single wet season without such situations: the vehicle
developing huge potholes. Many minor roads are dirt may actually be turning left.
and gravel, especially beyond the Central Highlands, A pile of sticks and leaves
and often turn into muddy quagmires during the wet at the roadside often indicates
season. A 4WD vehicle is thus essential for exploring a broken down vehicle or
beyond the major cities. Drivers need to take precau- some other hazard ahead.
tions, as conditions are frequently hazardous. Do not Avoid parking on a street
overnight. Most towns have
drive at night. Locally available maps are not reliable: inexpensive parking lots with
carry a road atlas published by a reputed company. security guards. Never leave
any items in a parked vehicle.
Accurate maps are difficult to
come by. The National Geo- FUEL STATIONS
graphic Adventure Map and
the detailed Costa Rica Nature Costing about 600 colones
Atlas are recommended. per liter, gasolina is
unleaded, and is called
ROAD HAZARDS Super. Gasolineras (gas
stations) are plentiful in
Since many roads are severely towns, but much scarcer in
potholed, drive slowly to rural areas, especially in
Street with No Parking sign avoid bending a wheel. Keep Nicoya. Refill whenever the
your speed down especially tank drops to half-full. In
TRAFFIC REGULATIONS on corrugated and loose remote areas, gasoline is
gravel roads, where it is easy usually available at pulperas
Costa Ricans drive on the to lose traction. Watch for (grocery stores), where it may
right, and the speed limits are pedestrians and animals in cost twice as much as at
50 mph (80 km/h) on major the road, especially outside regular gas stations.
highways, and 37 mph (60 towns, where few roads have Gas stations are typically
km/h) on secondary roads. sidewalks. Particularly during open 6am to midnight and
Trnsitos (traffic police) patrol the wet season, mountain are not self-service. Some are
the highways in blue cars and roads are often foggy and open 24 hours, and most will
use radar guns to catch speed- subject to landslides, while accept credit card payments.
ers, but are not permitted to lowland roads are prone
collect money. Occasionally a to flooding. DIRECTIONS AND ROAD
corrupt police official may try Many river crossings require SIGNS
to extract a bribe (see p258). fording. Use caution in the
Fines should be paid in a bank, wet season, when rivers can Few roads in Costa Rica
or to the rental car agency. be too deep or fast-flowing to have directions or mile posts.
The use of seat belts is ford. Ask locals about current In towns, street names are
compulsory, but few Costa conditions. Edge slowly into rarely signposted and those
Ricans use seat belts and laws the river; rushing forward can signs that do exist are
are rarely enforced. If youre flood and stall the engine. frequently incorrect. So, when
traveling with young children, Beware drivers running stop asking anyone for directions it
bring a car seat, as rental car signs, overtaking when there is best to check where the
agencies do not supply them.
ROAD NETWORK AND

CLASSIFICATION
The country is covered by

18,650 miles (30,000 km) of
highway. However, only
20 percent is paved, with the
Central Highlands appropri-
ating a large chunk of the
total. The percentage of
unpaved roads increases with
distance from the capital;
however, more and more dirt
roads are now being paved. Range Rover on a dirt road near Ojochal village, southern Costa Rica
DIRECTORY
ACCIDENTS
Trnsitos
Tel 117; 911; 222-9330.
INSURANCE
Instituto Nacional de
Seguridad (INS)
Tel 800-800-80000.
CAR RENTAL
One of the infrequent road signs in Costa Rica COMPANIES
road goes rather than to name Budget, and Hertz have Alamo
your desired destination. local franchises at the inter- Tel 2233-7733.
Road signs use international national airports, and in San
www.alamocostarica.com
symbols. Alto means stop, Jos and a few leading tourist
ceda means yield, and centers; some local agencies Budget
mantenga du derecha also exist. Discover
Tel 2436-2000.
means keep right. Costa Rica offers
Tmulo indicates a all-inclusive fly/drive www.budget.co.cr
road bump ahead, packages. A 4WD Discover Costa Rica
while derrumbe vehicle is needed for
denotes a landslide Stop sign rural areas, where high Tel 2293-8109.
or falling rocks. ground clearance and www.allcostarica
extra traction are called for. destinations.com
ACCIDENTS AND Companies such as U-Save
INSURANCE have a wide variety of 4WD Hertz
vehicles, while Costa Ricas Tel 2221-1818.
If an accident occurs, call Temptations (see p253) www.costaricarentacar.
Trnsitos. Do not abandon offers adventure tours
your vehicle, and do not let by Land Rover. U-Save
the other party move his or Prices are generally lower Tel 2430-4647.
her vehicle. If possible, obtain in the wet season, and unlim-
www.usavecostarica.com
the cdulas (identification) ited mileage options generally
and license number of the work out the cheapest. When
other driver. If anyone is pre-booking, get a written MOTORCYCLE HIRE
injured, call the Red Cross confirmation. Insurance is
(see p259). Rental cars have a compulsory and costs extra; Mara Alexander Tours
red triangle for emergencies; check to see if the quotation Tel 2289-5552.
place this in the road a safe includes insurance and, if so, www.costaricamotorcycles.com
distance from your accident get it confirmed in writing.
site to warn other vehicles. Many companies, including
Otherwise, make a small pile the chain brands, are not customers to sign a blank
of stones and branches, in the entirely trustworthy. Before credit card slip, which is torn
Costa Rican manner. If you signing the contract, ensure up when the car is returned
own the vehicle, you will that the vehicle is in good intact. When returning the
need to report the accident condition and keep a note of car, bring a trusted friend
to the Instituto Nacional de any scratches or other faults. if possible: unscrupulous
Seguridad (INS), which Companies often require employees of the agency
handles all insurance claims. may tamper with the vehicle
if you leave it unattended
CAR AND MOTORCYCLE while clearing your bill.
RENTAL Check the final bill for
any questionable charges,
To rent a car in Costa Rica which you may dispute.
you must be over 21, and Bicycles, mopeds, and
have a valid drivers license. motorcycles can be rented in
Some agencies require a min- San Jos and major tourist
imum age of 25 years. Visits resorts. Mara Alexander
of over three months need a Tours rents Harley Davidson
domestic drivers license. motorcycles and has tours
International car rental A line of rental 4WD vehicles for people 25 years or older.
companies such as Alamo, awaiting customers Helmets are mandatory.
Getting Around San Jos BUSES
Most places of interest are centrally Buses are cheap but

located, and within walking distance of overcrowded, and run from
one another and downtown hotels and 5am to 10pm. There is no
restaurants. The best way to explore central bus terminal for city
buses. Routes are identified
central San Jos is on foot, although by destination, shown above
you will need to rely on some other the front window, rather than
Public bus form of transport to reach the suburbs by number. Free route maps
and outlying areas. The citys public are available from the ICT
transportation system is crowded, although an efficient office (see p257). An
taxi system eases the burden of traveling around by important bus route is the
bus. It is not advisable to drive around San Jos, Sabana-Cementerio one,
especially during morning and afternoon rush hour which links the city center
and Parque Sabana, running
when the roads become extremely congested. eastbound along Avenida 10
and westbound along
Avenida 3. Public buses to the
airport depart from Avenida 2,
Calles 12/14. Buses to San
Joss suburbs fill up fast, and
you should board at the origi-
nal departure point. Watch
out for pickpockets while
traveling by bus: its a good
idea to wear your money belt
inside your clothes.
TAXIS
Taxis are numerous and can

be hailed on the street or via
your hotel concierge.
However, they are in short
supply during rush hour and
Pedestrians on Avenida Central, San Joss busiest pedestrian road heavy rains. The main taxi
rank in San Jos is around
WALKING and hold your camera in Parque Central. Licensed taxis
front, with the strap over are red; a lighted sign on the
The most practical way to your neck rather than on roof indicates that the taxi is
explore the heart of San Jos your shoulder. Keep to available. Most taxis take four
is by walking, which permits busy, well-lit streets at night, passengers, and the older
you to enjoy the city at close when you should avoid the cabs rarely have seatbelts.
quarters. Laid out in an easy- streets northwest of the You can pay in dollars or
to-understand grid pattern, Mercado Central (see p58) and colones. Taxis are good value
the city center makes for southwest of Parque Central by US or European standards,
convenient strolling. (see pp56), as well as Parque and rarely does a fare within
However, the sidewalks are Nacional (see pp689) and the city center cost more than
narrow and crowded, and Parque Morazn (see p66). $15. Taxis are required by law
pedestrians are often forced There is usually a cooling to use their marias (meters)
to step into the street. Down- breeze blowing at all times. for journeys of less than
town streets are thronged Remember, however, that 9.5 miles (15 km). Many
with traffic, and pedestrians the suns rays are fierce at drivers decline to do so in
should take great care. Do this altitude and latitude, anticipation of being able
not assume that vehicles will and you should wear a to charge you extra.
automatically stop at pedes- shade hat and Taxi drivers do not
trian crossings, or give way sunscreen. There expect tips, although
to pedestrians on the road are usually cafs Sign on a 10 percent tip is
when traffic lights turn to close at hand, local taxis appreciated. Many
green. Be especially careful permitting you to private drivers offer
of buses, which often drive escape the heat and noise. unlicensed taxi service. They
onto the sidewalks when Always come prepared for usually charge more than
turning corners. late afternoon showers, licensed taxis, and have a
Beware of pickpockets, especially during wet season, reputation for being unsafe.
especially in crowded places. when you will need an Never take an unlicensed taxi,
Avoid wearing jewelry. Carry umbrella. These can be however trustworthy you
valuables in a money belt, bought at roadside street stalls. believe the driver to be.
Traffic normally flows in both

directions along Paseo Coln,
except from 7am to 9am,
Monday to Friday, when it is
one-way eastbound, and 8am
to 5pm on Sunday, when it is
closed to traffic.
The one-way system and
grid pattern in the city center
help lubricate traffic flow, but
traffic jams can persist through-
out the day on some streets.
During rush hour, Avenidas 8
and 9 are usually the best
routes to follow when cross-
ing the city from east to west;
Bustling street outside the Mercado Central Avenida 10 is recommended
when heading west to east.
DRIVING numerous other parking lots.
At most of them, you need to DIRECTIONS AND SIGNS
Even if you are used to pay an attendant and may be
driving in cities, exploring required to leave your igni- Within the city center,
San Jos by car can be a tion keys. Never leave valu- even-numbered avenidas lie
nerve-racking experience and ables inside the car, even in north of Avenida Central and
is best avoided unless you guarded parking lots. Route odd-numbered avenidas are
know the city well. Josefinos 39, the Circunvalacin, is a to the south; even-numbered
are aggressive drivers, and ring road that runs around calles are west of Calle
often display a marked lack the west, south, and east Central, and odd-
of consideration for other of the city. Avenida numbered calles are to
drivers. Many drivers will Central leads east to the east as far as the
proceed through red lights if the University of Circunvalacin.
no traffic is coming the other Costa Rica and Avenida Central
way, especially at night, when the busy suburb is pedestrianized
extreme care is needed. A of San Pedro between Calle 6 and
green light does not neces- (see p71). To the west, Calle 7, as are Calle 2
sarily mean the road is clear. Paseo Coln links the between Avenidas 2
When approaching an amber city center to Parque Cautionary sign and 3, and Calle 17
light, be aware that the driver Sabana and the for seat belts (Bulevar Ricardo
behind you may not expect Autopista General Jimnez) between
you to stop, and may speed Caas, which leads to the Avenidas 1 and 8. However,
up to run the red light. airport and Alajuela. Another streets are poorly signed.
The speed limit is 18 mph freeway, the Autopista Traffic lights, which are
(30 km/h) on urban streets. Prospero Fernndez, runs normally suspended over the
The city center has one west from Parque Sabana (see center of junctions, are often
multilevel car park and p74) to Escaz (see p75). difficult to see.
Traffic along Calle Central, the capital citys main northsouth thoroughfare
272 G E N E R A L I N D E X
General Index
Page numbers in bold type refer Artes Tulio (Monteverde) 238, 241 Bats 21
to main entries. Arts 19 Beaches 21, 289
Indigenous art 323, 239 Cabo Matapalo 189, 190, 216,
7th Street Books (San Jos) 251, Art galleries 238, 241 236
253 Galera de Arte Contemporneo Guanacaste and Northern Nicoya
Mary Ann Zrcher (Islita) 140 10
A Galera Nacional (Centro surfing (Northern Nicoya) 137
Accidents 269 Costarricense de Ciencias see also Playa
Accommodations Cultura, San Jos) 72 Beaches of Nosara 140
see Hotels Gallery at Home (Gupiles) Beethoven, Ludwig van 60
Aerial trams 24 164, 238 Bella Vista Lodge (Escaleras)
Arenal Rainforest Reserve and Asamblea Legislativa (San Jos) 182, 217, 250
Aerial Tram 10, 146, 149, 151 54, 69, 70 Benito, Jos Sancho 68
Pacific Rainforest Aerial Tram Aserr 97 Best Western (hotel chain)
(Jac) 114 Asociacion ANAI 172, 173 196, 199
Rainforest Aerial Tram 146, 159 Atenas Biblioteca Nacional (San Jos) 68
African oil palms 107, 116 festivals 37 Bien, Amos 159
Aguas Termales (San Gerardo) hotels 204 Biesanz, Barry 19, 75, 240
178, 179 restaurants 227 Bijagua
Agujitas 190 Atlantic Railroad 45, 101, 156, 161, hotels 212
Air Canada 264, 265 165 Birds 267
Air fares see Flight prices ATMs 260 frigate birds 26, 185
Air France 264, 265 Aviarios del Caribe Wildlife Refuge harpy eagle 23
Air travel 264, 266 (Cahuita) 170 hummingbirds 27, 91, 127, 128,
Airlines 264, 265, 266, 267 158, 164
Airports 264 B macaws 26, 114, 158, 191
Alajuela 9, 43, 44, 81, 82, 84 Backroads (outfitter) 250, 253 resplendent quetzals 84, 87, 90,
festivals 35 Baha Ballena (Southern Nicoya) 96, 101, 127, 128, 132, 179
hotels 203204 111 three-wattled bellbirds 20
restaurants 227 Baha Ballena (Southern Zone) 29 toucans 23, 26, 84
Alajuela (province) 16, 489 Baha Chatham 193 trogons 26
Alamo 269 Baha Culebra 136 waterbirds 21, 267
Albergue Finca Educativa Indgena hotels 208 Bird-watching 10, 26, 158, 249
(Shiroles) 173 Baha Drake (Peninsula de Osa) see also National Parks and
Alcada (Puerto Limn) 165 11, 176, 177, 188, 190 wildlife reserves
Alcohol 221 hotels 216 Birds of Costa Rica
Alegora a la Patria y la Justca restaurants 236 (Dr. Alexander Skutch) 178
(Roberto Fontana) 61 sportfishing 117 Bishops Castle (Barrio Amn,
Alfaro, Don Anastasio 104 Baha Salinas 122, 132 San Jos) 67
Alvarado, Teodorico Quiros hotels 208 Blanco, Don Evangelisto 87
19, 67, 74, 75 windsurfing 251 Blanco, Otilio Ulate 46
Alvarez, Guadalupe 165 Baha Wafer 193 Boats 267
American Airlines 264, 265 Bajo del Tigre Trail (Monteverde Boca Damas 108, 115
Amighetti, Francisco 74 and Santa Elena) 124 Boca San Carlos 156
Andrmeda Gallery (San Jos) Bajos del Toro Bocas de Nosara 140
238, 241 hotels 204 Bolvar, Simn 66, 70
Angie Theologos (San Jos) Baldi Termae Spa (La Fortuna) 148 Boruca 32, 33, 34, 35, 175, 184
240, 241 Ballet 244, 247 Boruca (village) 184
Angling see Sportfishing Balnearios Termales Orosi festivals 34, 35
Anteaters 21 (Orosi) 100 Bosque de Paz Rain/Cloud Forest
Antigua Estacin Ferrocarril Bananas 159, 164, 175 Biological Reserve 82, 87
al Atlntico (San Jos) 71 Bananero La Colonia (Puerto Viejo hotels 204
Apartotels 197 de Sarapiqus) 156 Botanical gardens
Aquamor (Manzanillo) 173 Banco de Costa Rica 260 Arenal Botanical Gardens
Aquitaba 103 Banco Nacional 260 144, 150, 152
Arenal Bungee (La Fortuna) 148 Bank notes 261 Casa de Orqudeas (Parque
Arenal Hanging Bridges Banks 26061 Nacional Piedras Blancas) 192
144, 146, 149, 151 Barca, Caldern de la 60 Chesters Field Botanical
Arenal Mundo Aventura Barra de Parismina 166 Gardens (Centro Neotrpico
(La Fortuna) 148 Barra del Colorado SarapiquS) 155
Arenal Observatory Lodge hotels 214 Costa Flores (near Gupiles) 164
(Parque Nacional Volcn Arenal) Barra del Colorado National Finca la Isla Botanical Garden
149, 213 Wildlife Refuge see Refugio (Puerto Viejo de Talamanca) 172
Arenal Rainforest Reserve and Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Jardn Botnico Lankester 82, 93,
Aerial Tram 10, 146, 149, 151 Barra del Colorado 240
Arenal Volcano see Volcn Arenal Barri Amon (San Jos) 8, 54, 67 Jardn Pura Vida (Parque
Arenal Volcano National Park see shopping 238 Nacional Carara) 114
Parque Nacional Volcn Arenal wall mural 67 Las Cusingas 162, 164
Arenal Waterfall Gardens Barry Biesanz Woodworks (Escaz) Sarapiqu Heliconia Island 146,
(La Fortuna) 148 75, 240 158
Arias, Oscar 17 Barva 82, 923 Vivero Popor (near Tilarn) 130
Ark Herb Farm (Heredia) 92 Basilica de Nuestra Seora Vivero Solera (near Tambor) 111
Arribadas 141 de los ngeles (Cartago) Wilson Botanical Gardens (Las
Playa Nancite 134 93, 945, 247 Cruces Biological Station) 179
Playa Ostional 140 Basulta, Rafael Elizondo 178 Botos Lake 90
G E N E R A L I N D E X 273
Boutique Annemarie (San Jos) Calypso Cruises (Isla Tortuga) 111 Cascada de la Muerte (Cavernas de
239, 241 Camiones 267 Venado) 154
Boutique hotels 196 Camping 197 Cascada la Llorona (Parque
Braulio Carrillo National Park see Canal de Tortuguero 167, 1689 Nacional Corcovado) 191
Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo tour 166 Castillo Azul (Asamblea Legislativa,
Brenes, Jos Mara Zeledn 66 Caas 122, 130 San Jos) 69, 70
Brenes, Manco Tulio 238 festivals 36 Casinos 246
Brenes, Miguela 92 hotels 208 Castro, Fidel Tristn 67
Bribri 32, 173, 184 restaurants 231 Catarata La Fortuna 148
British Airways 264, 265 Cao Blanco 166 Catarata Manantial de Agua Viva
Bromeliads 22, 172, 183 Cao de Penitencia 166 (Parque Nacional Carara) 114
Bry, Theodor de 42 Cao Negro (village) 154 Cathedrals and churches
Budget hotels 197 festivals 36 Basilica de Nuestra Seora de los
Buena Vista Mountain Lodge hotels 212 ngeles (Cartago) 93, 945, 247
& Adventure Center (Rincn sportfishing 251 Catedral de Alajuela (Alajuela) 84
de la Vieja) 132, 211, 250 Cao Negro Wildlife Refuge see Catedral Metropolitana (San Jos)
Buenos Aires 173, 179, 184 Refugio Nacional de Vida 54, 56, 58
festivals 35 Silvestre Cao Negro Iglesia de Grecia (Grecia) 86
Bulevar Ricardo Jimnez (San Jos) Canopy tours 245, 249 Iglesia de la Agona (Liberia) 131
69, 71 Corcovado Canopy Tour Iglesia de la Parroquia (Cartago)
Bullfights see Recorridos de tores (Los Planos) 190 93
Burle-Marx, Roberto 179 Crazy Monkey Canopy Ride Iglesia de Nuestra Seora de la
Buses (Puerto Viejo de Talamanca) 172 Lmpia Concepcin (Ujarrs)
local 2667 locations 25 99, 100
international 265 Los Angeles Cloud Forest Private Iglesia de San Bartolom de
San Jos 270 Biological Reserve 87 Barva (Barva) 923
tourist 267 Original Canopy Tour 249, 253 Iglesia de San Jos de Orosi
Butterflies 20, 85, 126 Sky Walk/SkyTrek (Santa Elena) (Orosi) 82, 100
Butterfly farms and gardens 85 128 Iglesia de Sarch (Sarch) 81, 86
Butterfly Farm (La Gucima) Witchs Rock Canopy Tour Iglesia Imaculada Concepcin
9, 84 (Baha Culebra) 136 de Mara (Liberia) 131
Butterfly Garden (La Paz see also Aerial trams, Zipline tours Iglesia Parroquia San Blas
Waterfall Gardens) 91 Car rental 269 (Nicoya) 142
Ecocentro Danaus Butterfly Car travel see Driving Iglesia Santo Cristo de la Agona
Farm and Tropical Garden Carara National Park (Alajuela) 84
(La Fortuna) 148 see Parque Nacional Carara La Mariana (Los Angeles Cloud
Fincas Naturales Wildlife Carate 189, 191 Forest Private Biological
Refuge & Butterfly Garden hotels 21617 Reserve) 87
(Quepos) 116 Cariari Country Club La Parroquia de la Imaculada
Jardn de Mariposas (El Castillo) (Central Highlands) 250, 253 Concepcin (Heredia) 92
149 Caribbean 250, 173 Cavalln, Juan de 42
La Seva Biological Station Afro-Caribbean culture 11, 161, Cavernas de Venado 10, 146, 154
146, 158 162, 170 Central America Free Trade Area
Lighthouse Point (Jac) 114 area map 1623 (CAFTA) 47
Mariposario (Puerto Viejo de Canal de Tortuguero Tour 196 Central Highlands 8, 9, 80105
Talamanca) 172 cuisine 222 area map 823
Monteverde Nature Center and getting around 163 getting around 83
Butterfly Gardens 124, 126 hotels 21416 hotels 203206
Selvatura Park (Santa Elena) restaurants 2356 Orosi Valley 98100
128 Carmen 112 restaurants 2279
Carnaval (Puerto Limn) volcanoes 9
C 37, 165, 246 whitewater rafting 9, 102
Cabinas 197 Carnegie, Andrew 66 Central Pacific and Southern
Cabcar 32, 100, 173 Carretas 18, 75, 86, 87, 239 Nicoya 8, 9, 10619
Cabo Blanco Absolute Wildlife Da del Boyero 35, 75 area map 108109
Reserve see Reserva Natural Fiesta de las Carretas 37 crocodile safari 9, 108, 114, 115
Absoluta Cabo Blanco Carrillo, Braulio 44 getting around 109
Cabo Matapalo 189, 190 Cartago 42, 44, 82, 93 hotels 206208
hotels 216 Basilica de Nuestra Seora Monteverde and Santa Elena
restaurants 236 de los ngeles (Cartago) 1248
Cabrera, Miguel 142 93, 945, 247 Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
Cacao Biological Station festivals 36, 247 11819
(Parque Nacional Guanacaste) Cartago (province) 16 restaurants 22931
132 Casa Amarilla (Parque Espaa) 66 sportfishing 117, 251
Caf Britt 9, 82, 92, 240 Casa de Habano (San Jos) surfing 9
Cahuita 11, 161, 162, 163, 170 240, 241 Centro Agronmico Tropical de
beaches 29 Casa de la Cultura (Heredia) 92 Investigacin y Enseanza
festivals 35, 246 Casa de Orqudeas (Parque (CATIE) 101
hotels 21415 Nacional Piedras Blancas) 192 Centro Ambientalista El Pramo
restaurants 235 Casa el Soador (Orosi Valley) (Parque Nacional Chirripo) 181
scuba diving 252 99, 100 Centro Comercial El Pueblo
Caimans 21, 119 Casa Rosada (Asamblea Legislativa, (San Jos) 8, 238, 241
Calderon, Rafael Angel 45, 46 San Jos) 69 Centro Costarricense de Ciencias
Calderon, Rafael Angel (Jr.) 47 Casa Verde (Barrio Amn, y Cultura (San Jos) 8, 54,
Calvo, Fernando 59, 86 San Jos) 67 723
Centro Cultural Costarricense Coffee 3031, 445 Cusinga Lodge 182

Norteamericano (San Jos) shopping 240, 241, 243 Customs information 256
244, 247 Coffee estates Cycling 250, 253
Centro de Rescate Las Pumas Caf Britt 9, 82, 92, 240 Czepulos, Chester 155
(Caas) 130 Doka Estate 9, 82, 90
Centro Nacional de la Cultura Coffee mural (Aleardo Villa) 61 D
(San Jos) 54, 67, 68 Coffee tours see Coffee estates Da Vinci, Leonardo 100
Centro Neotropico SarapiquS Coins 62, 261 Danaide (Max Jimnez Huete) 74
10, 146, 155 Colectivos see Camiones Dance 244, 247
Cerro Chirrip 11, 175, 176, 180, Columbus, Christopher 41, 42, 165 Dance schools 246, 247
181 Columbus, Fernando 165 Daniel Oduber International
Cerro de la Muerte 176, 178 Compaa de Lrica Nacional 245, Airport (Liberia) 264
Cerro Fro 96 247 Davila, Gil Gonzlez 42, 142
Chachagua Compaa Nacional de Danza 67, Deep sea fish 117
hotels 212 245, 247 Deredia, Jorge Jimnez
restaurants 234 Communications 2623 19, 56, 58, 73
shopping 239 Condor (airlines) 264, 265 Desamparados 97
Chacn, Don Efran 96 Conquistadors Da de Nuestra Seora de la Virgen
Chain hotels 196, 199 see Spanish conquistadors de los ngeles (Cartago) 36, 94
Chain restaurants 220 Consulates 257 Da del Boyero (Escaz) 35, 75
Charming & Nature Hotels of Continental (airlines) 264, 265 Diquis 41, 62, 63, 175, 184, 188
Costa Rica 198, 199 Controlara de la Repblica Dira 142
Chartered flights 266 (Parque Sabana, San Jos) 74 Disabled travelers 257
Chesters Field Botanical Gardens Coopesilencio (Savegre) 116, 208 hotels 199
(Centro Neotrpico SarapiquS) Coopetaxi (San Jos) 267 Discos 246, 247
155 Cooprena (hotel agent) 197, 199 Dodwell, Sarah 238
Chibchas 41, 63, 175 Corcovado Canopy Tour Dolphins 189
Childrens Museum (Los Planos) 190 Tuxuc dolphin 172, 173
see Museo de los Nios Crdoba, Francisco Fernndez de Domestic flights 266
Chirrip Cloudbridge Reserve 179 42 Dominical 176, 182
Chirrip National Park Corobic 41, 145 hotels 217
see Parque Nacional Chirrip Coronado, Juan Vsquez de restaurants 236
Choice Hotels (hotel chain) 42, 66, 93 Don Quixote 67
196, 199 Costa Flores (near Gupiles) 164 Dos Brazos (Peninsula de Osa) 189
Chorotega 33, 121, 143 Costa Rica Drake, Sir Francis 190
Chorotega pottery 33, 121, 143, orientation map 1213 Driving 265, 2689
239 Road Map inside back cover Dry forests 10, 21, 133
Cigars 240, 241 Costa Rica Biking Adventure 250, Parque Nacional Santa Rosa
Cigar Shoppe (San Jos) 240, 241 253 122, 132, 133, 1345
Cinema 247 Costa Rica Connection 265 Reserva Biolgica Lomas
Cinepolis (San Jos) 247 Costa Rica Expeditions 248, 253 Barbudal 132, 13031
Cira 103 Costa Rica Experts 265 Duplantier, Amn Fasileau 67
Ciudad Cariari Costa Rica Nature Atlas 268
restaurants 227 Costa Rica Outdoors 248 E
Ciudad Neily 177 Costa Rica Sun Tours 248, 253 EARTH 162, 164
hotels 217 Costa Ricas Temptations 248, 253 Ecocentro Danaus Butterfly
restaurants 236 Costa Rican Art Museum Farm and Tropical Garden
Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) see Museo de Arte Costarricense (La Fortuna) 148
145, 146, 1545 Costa Rican Institute of Electricity Economy 17
festivals 35 see Instituto Costarricense de Ecotourism 47
shopping 240 Electricidad (ICE) Edificio Correos (San Jos)
Classical music 244, 247 Costa Rican Science and Cultural 8, 54, 59, 645
Climate 34, 36, 389 Center see Centro Costarricense Edificio del Plenario (Asamblea
Clothes see Garments, What to wear de Ciencias y Cultura Legislativa) 70
Cloud forests 10, 20, 129 Costa Rican Tourism Institute see Edificio Metlico (San Jos) 54, 66
Bosque de Paz Rain/Cloud Instituto Costarricense de El Avin (Quepos) 116
Forest Biological Reserve 87 Turismo (ICT) El Castillo 151
flora and fauna 129 Courier services 263 El Cuartel de la Boca del Monte
Genesis II 96 Cowboy culture 121, 131, 142 (San Jos) 246, 247
Los Angeles Cloud Forest Private Craft stores 239, 241 El Fausto de Gournod 60, 245
Biological Reserve 82, 867 Crafts see Handicrafts El Fortn (Heredia) 92
Reserva Biolgica Bosque Crazy Monkey Canopy Ride El Guerrero (Museo del Oro
Nuboso Monteverde 16, 125, (Puerto Viejo de Talamanca) 172 Precolombino, San Jos) 62
127, 248 Creaciones Santos (Escaz) 240, 241 El Ocotal Diving Safaris
Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Credit cards 221, 238 (Playa Ocotal) 253
Elena 124, 128 Crocodile safari 9, 108, 114, 115 El Porton Rojo (Teodorico Quirs
Club Amateur de Pesca (San Jos) Crocodiles 21, 115, 134 Alvarado) 74
251, 253 Cruise West (USA) 249, 253 El Pueblo (San Jos) 246, 247
Club Hpico la Caraa Cueva Tercipelo (Parque Nacional El Rosario de Naranjo
(near Escaz) 250, 253 Barra Honda) 143 hotels 204
Coastline of Costa Rica 21 Culture 15 El Silencio de los Angeles Reserve
Coca Cola terminal (San Jos) Currency 26061 87
2667 Cur National Wildlife Refuge see Electricity 257
Coco Loco Art Gallery and Refugio Nacional de Vida Instituto Costarricense de
Caf (Chachagua) 234, 239 Silvestre Cur Electricidad (ICE) 100, 150, 262
Email 263 Flora (cont.) Granados, Federico Tinoco 45

Emergency numbers 259 tropical flowers 183 Grayline 267
Encomienda system 42, 43 see also Cloud forest, Dry forest, Great green macaws see Macaws
Entertainment 2447 Mangroves, Rainforests Grecia 9, 82, 86
Eptome del Vuelo (Jos Sancho Florblanca Resort (Malpas) climate 39
Benito) 68 112, 206 Green turtles 29, 140, 167, 171
Erickson, Patricia 164, 238 Flying Crocodile Lodge and Flying Gringo Gulch (San Jos) 246
Escaleras (Dominical) 182 Center (Smara) 140 Group of New Sensibility 19
hotels 217 Food and drink Grupo Taca Airlines 264, 265
Escaz 54, 75 alcohol 221 Gucimo
festivals 35 children 221 restaurants 235
hotels 202 hygiene 221 Guaitl 10, 33, 122, 143
restaurants 2256 local eating habits 220 shopping 239
shopping 240? what to eat 2223 Gual, Jos Ravents 58
Esmeraldas y Diseos (San Jos) where to eat see Restaurants Guanacaste and Northern Nicoya
240, 241 Fortaleza de la Inmaculada 8, 10, 45, 12143
Esquinas Rainforest Lodge Concepcin (near Boca area map 1223
(Piedras Blancas) 192, 218 San Carlos) 156 beaches 10, 137
Esterillos Four Seasons (chain hotel) dry forests 10, 133
hotels 206 196, 199 getting around 123
Evelia con baton Four Seasons Resort at Papagayo hotels 20812
(Francisco Ziga) 67 Peninsula (Baha Culebra) 136, Parque Nacional Santa Rosa 1345
Expedia 264, 265 208, 250 restaurants 2314
Freshwater sharks 156 Guanacaste (province) 16
F Friends Meeting House Guanacaste tree 16, 133
Fbrica de Carretas Joaqun (Monteverde) 125 Guanacastecan cuisine 223
Chaverr (Sarch) 86, 239 Frogs and toads 126 Gupiles 164
Fallas, Carlos Luis 19 golden toad 127 hotels 215
Fax 263 harlequin toad 115 Gupiles Highway 91, 101
Feria de Orquideas (San Jos) 35 poison-dart frog 158, 170, 191 Guardia, Tmas 44, 45, 71
Fernndez, Juan Mora 44 Froli, Adritico 60 Guatuso/Maleku 32, 33
Fernndez, Mximo 70 Frontier Corridor National Guayabo National Monument see
Ferries 267 Wildlife Refuge see Refugio Monumento Nacional Guayabo
Ferrn, Luis 74 Nacional de Vida Silvestre Guaym 32, 33, 175, 192
Festivals and fairs 347, 2467 Corredor Fronterizo Guias MANT (Manzanillo) 173
Carnaval (Puerto Limn) 37, 165 Fruit 2223 Gulf of Nicoya 107, 121
Da de Nuestra Seora de la Fundacin de Parques Nacionales Gutirrez, Manuel Mara 66
Virgen de los ngeles (Cartago) 248, 253
36, 94 H
Da de San Isidro Labrador G Hacienda Bar see Refugio
(San Isidro de El General) 36 Galera 1112 (San Jos) 238, 241 Nacional de Vida Silvestre
Da del Boyero (Escaz) 35, 75 Galera Namu (San Jos) 239, 241 Bar
Feria de Orquideas (San Jos) 35 Galleries see Art galleries Hacienda Lodge Guachipeln
Fiesta de los Diablitos (Buenos Gallery at Home (near Gupiles) (Rincn de la Vieja) 132, 211, 250
Aries and Boruca) 33, 35, 184 164, 238 Hacienda Pozo Azul (La Virgen
Fiesta de la Yegita (Nicoya) Gallo pinto 220, 222 de Sarapiqu) 155
34, 142 Game fishing see Sportfishing Hacienda Santa Mara (Rincn
International Festival of Music Gandhi, Mahatma 86 de la Vieja) 132
36, 246, 247 Gandoca-Manzanillo Wildlife Hacienda Santa Rosa (Parque
Figueres, Jos Don Pepe Refuge see Refugio Nacional Nacional Santa Rosa) 135
46, 47, 70 de Vida Silvestre Gandoca- Hagnauer, Lilly Bodmer de 130
Finca Ecolgico (Monteverde Manzanillo Hammerhead sharks 21, 193
and Santa Elena) 124 Garca, Julio 66 Handicrafts 242
Finca Eddie Serrano (Salispuedes, Garments Harlequin toads 115
near Genesis II) 96, 205 shopping 240, 241 Health 2589
Finca La Suerte (near Gupiles) 164 Garnier, Jos Fabio 58 food hygiene 221
Finca Lomas (Manzanillo) 173 Genesis (Jorge Jimnez Deredia) 73 Heliconias 158, 164, 183
Finca la Isla Botanical Garden Gold 42 Heredia 9, 43, 44, 81, 82, 92
(Puerto Viejo de Talamanca) 172 mining 191 hotels 204
Finca Los Caballos (near lost wax technique 41, 63 restaurants 227
Montezuma) 112 Gold Museum Heredia (province) 16
Fincas Naturales Wildlife Refuge see Museo del Oro Precolombino Herrera, Fabio 72
and Butterfly Garden (Quepos) Golf 250, 253 Hidalgo, Miguel 71
116 Paradisus Playa Conchal Beach Hiking 11, 176, 180, 249, 253
Fish see Deep sea fish and Golf Resort 136, 210, 250 see also National parks and
Fishing see Sportfishing Tambor 111 wildlife reserves, Sendero
Flight prices 264, 265 Golfito 11, 175, 176, 177, 192 History 417
Fontana, Roberto 61 climate 39 Hitoy-Cerere Biological Reserve
Flor de Mayo (Alajuela) 84 hotels 217 see Reserva Biolgica Hitoy-
Flor, Juan Lopez de la 100 restaurants 237 Cerere
Flora sportfishing 117 Hoffman, Monseor Bernardo
bromeliads 22, 172, 183 Golfo de Papagayo 117 Augusto Thiel 58
heliconias 158, 164, 183 Golfo Dulce 175, 189 Holdridge, Dr. Leslie 158
orchids 93, 124, 126, 130, 170, Government 1617 Horizontes 249, 253
183, 192 Gran Hotel (San Jos) 57, 200 Horse parades see Topes
Horseback riding 250, 253 Indigenous groups (cont.)

see also National parks and Shamanism 41, 173
J
Jac 9, 107, 108, 109, 114
wildlife reserves Indigenous groups (individual)
hotels 206
Hospitals 259 Boruca 32, 33, 34, 35, 175, 184
Hostelling International Costa Rica restaurants 229
Bribri 32, 173, 184
197, 199 Jade carving 67
Cabcar 32, 100, 173
Hotel Borinquen Mountain Resort Jade Museum see Museo de
Chibchas 41, 63, 175
Thermae & Spa (near Parque Jade Fidel Tristn Castro
Chorotega 10, 32, 33, 41, 121
Nacional Rincn de la Vieja) 132 Jaguars 23, 113, 191
Coribic 41, 145
Hotel Bosque de Chachagua Janzen, Dr. Daniel 133
Diquis 41, 62, 63, 175, 184, 188
(La Fortuna) 148, 212 Jardn Botnico Lankester 82, 93
Guatuso/Maleku 32, 33
Hotel groups 198, 199 shopping 240
Guaymi 32, 33, 175, 192
Hotel Hacienda Punta Islita 140, 208 Jardn de Esculturas (Museo de
Huetar 32, 33
Hotel Tilawa Skateboard Park Arte Costarricence, San Jos) 74
Votos 41 Jardn de Mariposas/Castillo de
(Laguna de Arenal) 150, 151 Indigenous reserves
Hotels and lodges 196219 Insectos (El Castillo) 149
(The Caribbean) 161, 173 Jardn Pura Vida (Parque Nacional
booking 198 Reserva Indgena KekLdi 173
Caribbean 21416 Carara) 114
Reserva Indgena Talamanca- Jazz 245, 247
Central Highlands 203206 Bribri 173
Central Pacific and Southern Jazz Caf (San Jos) 245, 247
Reserva Indgena Talamanca- Jet Blue 264, 265
Nicoya 206208 Cabcar 33, 173, 179
disabled travelers 199 Jewelry
Reserva Indgena Yorkn 173 shopping 240, 241, 242
Guanacaste and Northern Nicoya Indigenous reserves (Central
20812 Jewels of the Rainforest Bio-Art
Highlands) Exhibition (Santa Elena) 128
Northern Zone 21214 Reserva Indgena Chirrip
prices 199 Jinetes de Osa (Baha Drake)
(Turrialba) 101 190, 216
San Jos 200203 Indigenous reserves (Southern
Southern Zone 21619 John H. Phipps Biological Station
Zone) 11 and Natural History Visitors
tipping 199 Reserva Indgena Boruca 184,
types 1968, 199 Center (Tortuguero village) 167
239 Journey Latin America 265
Huetar 32, 33 Reserva Indgena Cabagra 184
Huete, Max Jimnez 74 Juan Santamara International
Reserva Indgena Curr 184 Airport (San Jos) 55, 83, 109,
Humedal Lacustrino Laguna Reserva Indgena Guaym 192
Pejeperrito (near Parque 264
Reserva Indgena Trraba 184
Nacional Corcovado) 191
Hummingbirds 27, 91, 127, 128,
Indio desnudo (hardwood) 111,
133, 135
K
158, 164 Kandinsky (San Jos) 238, 241
Insect repellent 249, 259 Kayaking 251, 253
Hummingbird gardens
Instituto Clodomiro Picado 93 Golfo Dulce 190
La Paz Waterfall Gardens 82, 91
Instituto Costarricense de Isla Tortuga 111
Selvatura Park (Santa Elena) 128
Electricidad (ICE) 100, 150, 262 Ro Chirrip 178
Humpback whales 118, 182, 189
Instituto Costarricense de Turismo Ro Savegre 116
I (ICT) 17, 244, 256, 266
Instituto Geogrfica Nacional
Keith, Minor Cooper 45
Iberia (airlines) 264, 265 Kennedy, John F. 46, 103
Iglesia de Grecia (Grecia) 86 249, 253 Kinkajous 20
Iglesia de la Agona (Liberia) 131 Instituto Nacional de Seguro (INS)
Iglesia de la Parroquia (Cartago) 93 66, 269 L
Iglesia de Nuestra Seora de la Insurance 259, 269 La Amistad Biosphere Reserve
Lmpia Concepcin (Ujarrs) Interbus 267 see Reserva de la Biosfera
99, 100 International Festival of Music la Amistad
Iglesia de San Bartolom de Barva 36, 246, 247 La Amistad Lodge (Parque
(Barva) 923 International Friendship Park Internacional la Amistad)
Iglesia de San Jos de Orosi see Parque Internacional 179, 218
(Orosi) 82, 100 la Amistad La Caja (San Jos) 57
Iglesia de Sarch (Sarch) 81, 86 Internet cafs 263 La Casa del Pescador (San Jos)
Iglesia Imaculada Concepcin de Iraz Volcano National Park see 251, 253
Mara (Liberia) 131 Parque Nacional Volcn Iraz La Casona (Parque Nacional Santa
Iglesia Parroquia San Blas (Nicoya) Isla Alcatraz 111 Rosa) 135
142 Isla Ballena 182 La Casona (San Jos) 239, 241
Iglesia Santo Cristo de la Agona Isla Catalina 136 La Cura (Catedral Metropolitana,
(Alajuela) 84 Isla de Pajaros 130 San Jos) 56, 58
Iguana farm (Reserva Indgena Isla del Cao La Damita
KekLdi) 173 see Reserva Biolgica Isla hotels 204
Imagen Csmica (Jorge Jimnez del Cao La Danza de Vignami 60
Deredia) 73 Isla del Coco see Parque Nacional La Familia (Francisco Ziga) 66
INBioparque (Heredia) 9, 92 Isla del Coco La Fortuna 10, 145, 146, 147, 148
Indigenous crafts 19, 32, 67, 239, Isla Mogote 119 climate 38
241, 242 Isla Tolinga 111 hotels 213
Indigenous groups (general) Isla Tortuga 9, 108, 111 restaurants 234
17, 323, 41, 81 Isla Uvita 165 La Fuentes Termales (Tabacn) 148
Monumento Nacional Guayabo Islas Murcilagos 134, 135, 136 La Garita
81, 104105 scuba diving 252 hotels 204
Museo de Cultura Indgenas Islita 122, 140 restaurants 228
(Centro Neotrpico SarapiquS) hotels 209 La Gucima 82, 84
32, 155 restaurants 231 La Lechera (Santa Elena) 125, 126
La Mariana (Los Angeles Cloud Little Theatre Group (San Jos) Maps (cont.)
Forest Private Biological 244, 247 Isla del Coco (location) 12
Reserve) 87 Llach, Luis 59 La Ruta de los Santos 97
La Marina Zoolgica 155 Llano De Los Indios (Parque Laguna de Arenal 15051
La Negrita 18, 93, 94 Nacional Guanacaste) 132 Monteverde and Santa Elena
La Negrita pilgrimage 94 Local buses 2667 1245
La Parroquia de la Imaculada Logging 189 Monumento Nacional Guayabo
Concepcin (Heredia) 92 Lomas Barbudal Biological Reserve 104105
La Paz Waterfall Gardens 82, 91 see Reserva Biolgica Lomas Northern Zone 1467
La Pozo Hediondo (Parque Barbudal Orosi Valley 989
Nacional Barra Honda) 143 Los Angeles Cloud Forest Private Parque Nacional Chirrip 18081
La Ruta de los Santos (tour) Biological Reserve 82, 867 Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
9, 82, 97 hotels 204 11819
La Salsa Brava (Puerto Viejo de Los Chiles 147, 154 Parque Nacional, San Jos
Talamanca) 172 Los Crestones (Parque Nacional (street-by-street) 689
La Selva Biological Station Chirrip) 181 Parque Nacional Santa Rosa 1345
146, 158 Los Cusingos Neotropical Bird Peninsula de Osa 1889
La Virgen de Sarapiqu 155 Sanctuary (near San Isidro) 178 San Jos 545
hotels 213 Los Delfines Golf and Country San Jos City Center (street-by-
Lago Cao Negro 154 Club (Tambor) 111 street) 567
Lago de Cach 98, 99, 100 Los Presentes (Fernando Calvo) San Jos Street Finder 769
Lago de Coter 150, 152 59 Southern Zone 1767
Lago Los Jilgueros 132 Los Reyes Country Club Surfing beaches of Northern
Laguna Chocuaco 190 (La Gucima) 84 Nicoya 137
Laguna Corcovado 191 Los Sueos Marriott Ocean and Marine turtles 21, 29, 170, 171, 172
Laguna Negra 119 Golf Resort (Jac) 114, 207 green 29, 140, 167, 171
Laguna Pejeperrito 189 Los Tucanes waterfall (Quepos) hawksbill 171, 182
Laguna de Arenal 10, 145, 146, 116 leatherback 28, 136, 140, 171
15052 Lucky Bug Gallery (Laguna de loggerhead 171
area map 15051 Arenal) 150, 235 olive ridley turtles 28, 36, 110,
hotels 213 134, 140, 141, 170, 182
restaurants 2345 M Marine turtle nesting sites
shopping 239 Macaws 26, 84, 114, 158, 191 Parque Nacional Tortuguero 167
sportfishing 251 Mail service 263 Playa Grande 10, 136
visitors checklist 151 Maleku see Guatuso/Maleku Playa Nancite 134
windsurfing 251 Mall San Pedro (San Jos) 241 Playa Ostional 10, 140, 141
Laguna de Lagarto 156 Malpas 9, 108, 112 Playa Plataranes 190, 191
Laguna del Tortuguero 166 hotels 206 Playa Playitas 119
Lake Angostura 101 restaurants 229 Punta Banco (Pavones) 192
Lake Coter Eco-Lodge Mamita Yunai (Carlos Luis Fallas) Refugio Nacional de Vida
(Laguna de Arenal) 152 19 Silvestre Bar 182
Landscape 2021 Manatees 167, 173 Markets 241
Language 2567 Manchineel tree 119 see also Mercado
Las Cascadas Nauyaca (Dominical) Mangroves 21, 107, 185 Marriott (chain hotel) 196, 199
182 Boca Damas 115 Mariposario (Puerto Viejo) 172
Las Cruces Biological Station Laguna Negra 119 Maritza Biological Station (Parque
11, 176, 179, 217 Parque Nacional Palo Verde 130 Nacional Guanacaste) 132
Las Cusingas 162, 164 Reserva Forestal del Humedad Mart, Jos 69, 71
Las Hornillas (Zona Protectora Nacional Terraba-Sierpe 184 Martinair (airlines) 264, 265
Volcn Miravalles) 131 Manuel Antonio (town) 116 Masks 239, 243
Las Hornillas Volcanic Activity festivals 35 Matamoros, Fernando 67, 67
Center (Zona Protectora Volcn hotels 207 Mayfield, Michael W. 251
Miravalles) 131 restaurants 230 Medical see Health
Las Horquetas Manuel Antonio National Park Mercado Borbn (San Jos) 59
hotels 213 see Parque Nacional Manuel Mercado Central (Puerto Limn) 165
Las Tres Hermanes (Parque Antonio Mercado Central (San Jos) 8, 53,
Nacional Marino Ballena) 182 Manzanillo 54, 589, 240, 241
The Last Supper (Leonardo Da restaurants 235 Mercado de Artesanas las Garzas
Vinci) 100 Maps (San Jos) 239, 241
Leafcutter ants 20, 158 Beaches of Costa Rica 289 Mercado de Artesanas Nacionales
Leather goods 240, 242 Canal de Tortuguero tour 166 (San Jos) 239, 241
Leatherback turtles 28, 136, 137, Caribbean 1623 Merecumb 246, 247
140, 171 Central Highlands 823 Mirador de Orosi (Orosi Valley) 98
Legacin de Mexico (San Jos) 66 Central Pacific and Southern Miravalles Forest Reserve 131
Legislative Assembly see Asamblea Nicoya 108109 Miravalles Volcano
Legislativa climate zones 389 see Volcn Miravalles
Liberia 121, 122, 123, 131 Costa Rica (area-by-area) 5051 Mobile phones 261
climate 38 Costa Rica (orientation) 1213 Mon 165, 166
festivals 36, 37 Costa Rica (road map) inside Molas y Caf (Atenas) 239, 241
hotels 209 back cover Monge, Luis Alberto 46
restaurants 2312 Guanacaste and Northern Nicoya Monkeys 84, 119, 164, 167
Librera Universal (San Jos) 1223 capuchin 119
249, 253 Indigenous groups (site map) howler 129
Limn (province) 16 32 spider 20, 110
Lindblad Expeditions 249, 253 Isla del Coco (area) 193 squirrel 23, 119, 191
Monolitho Jaguar y Lagarto 104 Museums (cont.) National parks and wildlife
Monte de la Cruz (Heredia) 92 Museo de los Nios (Centro reserves (cont.)
hotels 204 Costarricense de Ciencias Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
restaurants 228 Cultura, San Jos) 73 9, 16, 51, 108, 11819, 248
Monte Sin Fe (Parque Nacional Museo de Numismtica (Museo Parque Nacional Marino
Chirrip) 181 del Oro Precolombino, San Jos) las Baulas 136
Monte Sky Mountain Retreat 62 Parque Nacional Marino Ballena
(Orosi Valley) 99 Museo de Sabanero (Liberia) 131 11, 176, 182, 252
Monterrey Museo del Oro Precolombino Parque Nacional Palo Verde
hotels 213 (San Jos) 8, 54, 57, 623, 240 10, 122, 130
Monteverde and Santa Elena 10, Museo el Pelicano (Valle del Rio Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas
50, 122, 123, 1248 Chirrip) 178 176, 192, 218
area map 1245 Museo Filatlico de Costa Rica Parque Nacional Rincn de la
climate 38 (San Jos) 59 Vieja 10, 122, 132, 248
hotels 209 Museo Histrico Maritimo Parque Nacional Santa Rosa
restaurants 232 (Puntarenas) 110 10, 122, 132, 133, 1345
shopping 238 Museo Histrico Penitenciario Parque Nacional Tapant-Macizo
visitors checklist 125 (Centro Costarricense de la Muerte 9, 82, 101
Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Ciencias y Cultura, San Jos) 72 Parque Nacional Tortuguero
Reserve see Reserva Biolgica Museo Marino (Golfito) 192 11, 51, 161, 162, 163, 167, 248
Bosque Nuboso Monteverde Museo Nacional (San Jos) Parque Nacional Volcn Arenal
Monteverde Nature Center and 8, 54, 69, 70, 104 10, 50, 146, 149, 21314, 235, 259
Butterfly Gardens 124, 126 Planetario (San Jos) 71 Parque Nacional Volcn Pos 9,
Montezuma 9, 108, 109, 112 Music 51, 82, 90, 103, 248, 259
hotels 207 classical music 244, 247 Parque Nacional Volcn
restaurants 230 jazz 245, 247 Tenorio 146, 154
Montezuma Canopy Tour 112 traditional music 245 Parque Nacional Volcn
Monumento Nacional (Parque Turrialba 9, 82, 103
Nacional, San Jos) 69, 7071 N Rainmaker Conservation Project
Monumento Nacional a la Madre National Center of Culture see 9, 108, 115
(Miguela Brenes) 92 Centro Nacional de Cultura Rara Avis 10, 146, 159
Monumento Nacional Guayabo National Dance Company see Refugio Nacional de Fauna
9, 41, 82, 103, 104105 Compaa Nacional de Danza Silvestre Barra del Colorado 161,
Mora, Juan Rafael 44, 45 National Institute of Insurance see 162, 163, 167, 214
Moravia 240, 242 Instituto Nacional de Seguro (INS) Refugio Nacional de Vida
Morazn, General Francisco 44, 66 National Museum Silvestre Bar 176, 182, 217
Morgan, Henry 43, 100 see Museo Nacional Refugio Nacional de Vida
Morgenson, Karen 112 National parks and wildlife Silvestre Cao Negro 10, 16, 146,
Motels 197 reserves 1516, 248, 253 147, 154
Motorcycle rental 269 Aviarios del Caribe Wildlife Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre
Muebles de Bamboo Refuge 162, 170 Corredor Fronterizo 146, 156
(near Gupiles) 164 Bat Jungle (Santa Elena) 124, 126 Refugio Nacional de Vida
Muelle Bosque de Paz Rain/Cloud Silvestre Cur 9, 108, 110
hotels 213 Forest Biological Reserve 82, 87, Refugio Nacional de Vida
Munda Aqutico (San Jos) 253 204 Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo 11,
Museums Chirrip Cloudbridge Reserve 179 162, 172
Centro Costarricense de Ciencias Fincas Naturales Wildlife Refuge Refugio Nacional de Vida
y Cultura (San Jos) 8, 54, 723 & Butterfly Garden (Quepos) 116 Silvestre Golfito 192
Ecomuseo de la Cermica Genesis II 82, 96 Refugio Nacional de Vida
Chorotega (Guaitl) 143 Humedal Lacustrino Laguna Silvestre Isla Bolaos
El Mundo de la Tortugo Pejeperrito 191 (Baha Salinas) 132
(Tamarindo) 136 Los Angeles Cloud Forest Private Refugio Nacional de Vida
Museo Comunitario Boruca Biological Reserve 82, 867, 205 Silvestre Ostional 122, 140
(Boruca) 184 Miravalles Forest Reserve 131 Refugio Nacional de Vida
Museo Cultural y Histrico Parque Internacional La Amistad Silvestre Pejeperro 191
Juan Santamara (Alajuela) 84 11, 176, 179, 218, 248 Refugio Nacional de Vida
Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Parque Nacional Barra Honda Silvestre Preciosa Platanares 190
al Aire Libre (Islita) 140 122, 143 Refugio Nacional de Vida
Museo de Arte Costarricense Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo Silvestre Punta Ro Claro 188, 190
(San Jos) 8, 45, 54, 74 9, 82, 91, 163 Refugio Nacional de Vida
Museo de Arte Religioso (Orosi) Parque Nacional Cahuita 11, 162, Silvestre Rancho Merced 182
100 170, 248 Reserva Absoluta Nicolas
Museo de Arte y Diseno Parque Nacional Carara 9, 108, Weissenburg 112
Contemporneo (San Jos) 67 114 Reserva Biolgica Bosque
Museo de Ciencias Naturales La Parque Nacional Chirrip 170, Nuboso Monteverde 16, 125,
Salle (San Jos) 54, 745 175, 18081, 248 127, 248
Museo de Cultura Indgena Parque Nacional Corcovado 11, Reserva Biolgica Durika 179
(Centro Neotrpico SarapiquS) 16, 39, 184, 1867, 188, 191, Reserva Biolgica Hitoy-Cerere
32, 155 248, 249 162, 170
Museo de Cultura Popular Parque Nacional Guanacaste Reserva Biolgica Isla del Cao
(Barva) 93 122, 132 175, 176, 184, 252
Museo de Insectos (Universidad Parque Nacional Isla del Coco Reserva Biolgica Isla Guayabo
de Costa Rica, San Jos) 71 11, 50, 176, 193, 252, 253 y Isla Negritos 111
Museo de Jade Fidel Tristn Parque Nacional Los Quetzales Reserva Biolgica Lomas
Castro (San Jos) 8, 54, 67 82, 96 Barbudal 122, 130
National parks and wildlife Orchids 183 Parque Nacional Cahuita 11, 162,
reserves (cont.) shopping 240, 241 170, 248
Reserva Biolgica Nosara 140 Organization of Tropical Studies Parque Nacional Carara 9, 108, 114
Reserva Biolgica Oro Verde (OTS) 158, 179 Parque Nacional Chirrip 170, 175
182 Organized tours 248, 253, 265, 267 18081, 248
Reserva Bosque Nuboso Iyk Original Canopy Tour 249, 253 Parque Nacional Corcovado 23, 11,
Am 178 Orinoco (Escaz) 239, 241 16, 184, 188, 1867, 191, 248, 249
Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Orosi (village) 98, 100 climate 39
Elena 124, 128 hotels 205 Parque Nacional Guanacaste 122,
Reserva de la Biosfera La restaurants 228 132
Amistad 179, 248 Orosi Valley 9, 82, 98100 Parque Nacional Isla del Coco
Reserva Forestal del Humedad area map 989 11, 50, 176, 193
Nacional Terraba-Sierpe 176, visitors checklist 99 scuba diving 252, 253
184, 185 Orquestra Sinfnia Nacional Parque Nacional Los Quetzales
Reserva Forestal el Rodeo 19, 61, 245, 247 86, 96
(Universidad de Paz) 86 Osa Peninsula see Peninsula Parque Nacional Marino las Baulas
Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo de Osa 136
Blanco 9, 16, 108, 112 Ostional Nacional Wildlife Refuge Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio
Reserva Selva Bananito 170 see Refugio Nacional de Vida 9, 16, 51, 108, 11819, 248
Selva Verde 10, 146, 156 Silvestre Ostional Parque Nacional Marino Ballena
Tempisque Safari Ecological Outdoor activities and specialty 11, 176, 182
Adventure (Puerto Humo) 142 vacations 24853 scuba diving 252
Tirimbina Rainforest Reserve see also National Parks and Parque Nacional Palo Verde
10, 155 reserves 10, 122, 130
National Symphony Orchestra see Oxcarts see Carretas Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas
Orquestra Sinfnia Nacional 176, 192
National Theater Company 67 P hotels 218
National Theater see Teatro Pacific Rainforest Aerial Tram Parque Nacional Rincn de la Vieja
Nacional (Jac) 114 10, 120, 122, 132, 248
National Geographic Adventure Pacific ridley turtles hotels 211
Map 268 see Olive ridley turtles Parque Nacional Santa Rosa 10,
Natural disasters 2589 Palmar 176, 177, 184 122, 132, 133, 1345
Nature Air 266 Panama 12 festivals 37
Newspapers 263 Pan-American Highway 46, 123 Parque Nacional Tapant-Macizo
Nicaragua 12, 46 Paradero Lacustre Charrarra la Muerte 9, 82, 101
Nicaraguan Contras 46, 47, 116, (Lago de Cach) 100 Parque Nacional Tortuguero
135 Paradisus Playa Conchal Beach 11, 51, 161, 162, 163, 167, 248
Nicoya 43, 122, 142 and Golf Resort (Playa Conchal) Parque Nacional Volcn Arenal
festivals 34, 36 136, 210 10, 50, 146, 149, 21314, 259
Nicuesa, Diego de 42 Paris Opera 60, 245 hotels 21314
Nightclubs 246, 247 Parks (city) and gardens restaurants 235
North, Colonel Oliver 135 INBioparque (Heredia) 92 Parque Nacional Volcn Pos
Northern Zone 8, 10, 14559 Parque Arquealgica Alma Alta 9, 51, 82, 90, 103, 248, 259
area map 1467 (Centro Neotrpico SarapiquS) Parque Nacional Volcn Turrialba
getting around 147 155 9, 82, 103
hotels 21214 Parque Central (San Jos) 56 Parque Reptilandia (Platanillo) 182
Laguna de Arenal 15052 Parque Central (Nicoya) 142 Parque Valle del Sol (Central
restaurants 2345 Parque de Purisl (Orosi Valley) Highlands) 250, 251
Nosara 122, 123, 140 99 Parque Viborana (near Turrialba)
hotels 209 Parque Diversiones (Pueblo 101
restaurants 232 Antiguo, San Jos) 54, 75, 245 Passports 256
Nuevo Arenal 150, 152 Parque Espaa (San Jos) 54, 66 Patti, Adelina 60
Parque Francisco Alvardo Pavones 192
O (Zarcero) 87 hotels 218
Occidental (chain hotel) 196, 199 Parque Juan Santamara Paying
Ocelots 96, 110, 127, 171 (Alajuela) 84 hotels 199
Ojochal Parque Mora Fernndez restaurants 221
hotels 218 (San Jos) 57 shops 238
restaurants 237 Parque Morzan (San Jos) 54, 66 Peace Lodge (La Paz Waterfall
Okeanos Aggressor 253 Parque Nacional (San Jos) 8, 54, Gardens) 91
Olive ridley turtles 28, 36, 110, 134, 68, 69, 70 Peace Pilgrim (Fernando Calvo) 86
140, 141, 170 Parque Nicolas Ulloa (Heredia) 92 Peccaries 129, 191, 249
Opening hours 256 Parque Sabana (San Jos) 54, 55, Peas 247
shops 238 74 Peninsula de Osa 175, 176, 18891
Opera 244, 247 Parque Vargas (Puerto Limn) 165 area map 1889
Orbitz 264, 265 see also Botanical gardens, visitors checklist 189
Orchid farms and gardens Butterfly gardens, Hummingbird People 1718
Casa de Orqudeas (Parque gardens, Orchid gardens Pereira, Juana 94
Nacional Piedras Blancas) 192 Parque Internacional La Amistad Perry, Dr. Donald 25, 159
Jardn Botnico Lankester 82, 93, 11, 176, 179, 248 Personal security 2589
240 hotels 218 Petroglyphs 104, 178
Orqudeas de Monteverde 124, Parque Nacional Barra Honda Phone cards 262
126 122, 143 Picado, Teodoro 46
Orqudeas Mundo (Penshurst) 170 Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo Piedra de los Indios
Vivero Popor (near Tilran) 130 9, 82, 91, 163 (Valle del Ro Chirrip) 178
Piedras Blancas National Park Playa Panam 136 Puerto Viejo de Talamanaca
see Parque Nacional Piedras Playa Pelada 140 161, 162, 163, 172
Blancas Playa Penca 136 festivals 35
Pirates 43, 161, 165 Playa Platanares 189, 190 hotels 215
Pitilla Biological Station (Parque hotels 218 restaurants 236
Nacional Guanacaste) 132 Playa Playitas 119 Puesto Jalova (Parque Nacional
Planet Mall (San Jos) 246, 247 Playa Quesera 110 Tortuguero) 166
Playa Aro 137 Playa San Isidro 110 Puma Rescue Shelter (Caas) 130
Playa Avellanas Playa San Josecito (Baha Drake) Punta Banco (Pavones) 192
hotels 209 188, 190 Punta Catedral (Manuel Antonio) 118
Playa Bejuco 137 hotels 219 Punta Mona Center (near
Playa Blanca 29, 170 Playa San Josecito (near Parque Manzanillo) 173
Playa Bongo 137 Nacional Piedras Blancas) 192 Puntarenas 9, 107, 108, 109, 110
Playa Bonita 165 Playa San Miguel 137 festivals 35, 36
Playa Cabo Blanco 112 Playa Santa Teresa 112 hotels 208
Playa Caletas 115 Playa Sombrero 190 restaurants 231
Playa Carrillo 28, 140 Playa Tambor Beach Resort and Puntarenas (province) 16
hotels 210 Casino 111 Punto guanacasteco (national
Playa Cativo 192 Playa Tortuga 182 dance) 19, 245, 247
Playa Chiquita 160, 172 Playa Uva 172
Playa Cocal 116 Playa Varga 170 Q
Playa Cocles 29, 172 Playa Zancudo 29, 192 Quakers 124, 126
restaurants 235 Playas del Coco 10, 28, 122, 136 Quality Inn 196, 199
Playa Colorada 110 hotels 211 Quebrada Gonzalez Ranger Station
Playa Conchal 28, 136 restaurants 233 (Parque Nacional Braulio
hotels 210 Plaza Bernabela Ramos (Santa Carrillo) 91
restaurants 232 Cruz) 142 Queen Isabel II (Spain) 66
Playa Cur 110 Plaza de la Artisana (Sarch) 239 Quepos 9, 107, 108, 116
Playa Espadilla 116 Plaza de la Cultura (San Jos) 57 climate 39
Playa Espadilla Sur 118 Plaza de la Democraca (San Jos) hotels 208
Playa Flamingo 10, 28, 29, 106, 136 70 restaurants 231
hotels 210 Plaza de la Libertad Electoral sportfishing 117, 251
restaurants 2323 (San Jos) 68 Quetzal Education Research Com
sportfishing 251 Plaza de los Mangos (Santa Cruz) plex (San Gerardo de Dota) 96
Playa Gandoca-Manzanillo 29, 142 Quetzalcoatl 179
172 Plaza del General Toms Guardia Quetzals see Resplendent quetzals
Playa Grande (Montezuma) 112 (Alajuela) 84 Quiros, Daniel 66
Playa Grande (Tamarindo) 10, 28, Plaza Los Presentes (San Jos) 59
136, 137 Plenitude (Jos Sancho) 67 R
hotels 210 Pos Radio 263
restaurants 233 hotels 205 Radiogrfica Costarricense (RASCA)
Playa Guiones 28, 140 Poasito 90 262, 263
Playa Hermosa (Jac) 115 Poison-dart frog 158, 170, 191 Rafiki Safari Lodge (Savegre)
hotels 210 Police 258, 259 116, 208
restaurants 230 Postal service 263 Rafting see Whitewater rafting
Playa Hermosa (Malpas) 103 Pre-Columbian artifacts 54, 62, 70 Rain Goddess (cruise vessel)
Playa Hermosa (near Parque Pre-Columbian culture see 152, 251
Nacional Palo Verde) Centro Neotrpico SarapiquS Rainforest Aerial Tram 146, 159
hotels 210 Pre-Columbian peoples 41, 81 Rainforests 20, 223
restaurants 233 see also Indigenous groups fauna 20, 23
Playa Hermosa (Parque Presa Sangregado (Laguna de Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo
Nacional Volcn Iraz) 103 Arenal) 151 9, 82, 91, 163
Playa Herradura 114 Principe de la Paz 178 Parque Nacional Carara 9, 108,
hotels 2078 Proyecto Geotrmico Miravalles 114
restaurants 230 (Volcn Miravalles) 131 Parque Nacional Corcovado
Playa Jac 28, 114 Proyecto Papagayo (Baha Culebra) 11, 16, 39, 184, 1867, 188, 191,
Playa Langosta 136 136 248, 249
Playa Los Suecos 112 Public amenities 259 Parque Nacional Tapant-Macizo
Playa Manuel Antonio 118 Public holidays 37 la Muerte 9, 82, 101
Playa Manzanillo 137 Public telephones 262 Parque Nacional Tortuguero
Playa Montezuma 28, 112 Pueblo Antiguo (San Jos) 75, 245 11, 51, 161, 162, 163, 167, 248
Playa Nancite 134 Puente de Amistad con Taiwan 143 Rara Avis 10, 25, 146, 159
Playa Naranjo 28, 134, 137 Puerto Humo 142 Refugio Nacional de Vida
Playa Negra (Cahuita) 29, 170 Puerto Jimnez 11, 189, 190 Silvestre Cao Negro 10, 16, 146,
Playa Negra (near Tamarindo) hotels 219 147, 154
hotels 210 restaurants 237 Refugio Nacional de Vida
restaurants 233 Puerto Limn 161, 162, 163, 165 Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo
Playa Negra (Puerto Viejo) 172 climate 39 11, 162, 172
Playa Nosara 137 festivals 37 Selva Verde 10, 156
restaurants 235 hotels 215 Tirimbina Rainforest Reserve
Playa Ocotal 136 restaurants 235 10, 155
hotels 210 Puerto Viejo de Sarapiqu Veragua Rainforest Research
restaurants 233 10, 145, 146, 156 and Adventure Park 25, 170
Playa Ostional 10, 28, 140 hotels 214 Rainmaker Conservation Project
hotels 211 restaurants 236 9, 108, 115
Ranario de Monteverde 126 Reserva Indgena KekLdi 173 Rodrguez, Eusebio 58

Rancho La Botija (Valle del Ro Reserva Indgena Talamanca- Route of the Saints
Chirrip) 178, 219 Bribri 173 see La Ruta de los Santos
Rancho Los Tucanes (Quepos) 116 Reserva Indgena Talamanca- Roy, Dennis 115
Rancho Margot (Laguna de Arenal) Cabcar 33, 173, 179 Ruhlow, Jerry 251
151, 152 Reserva Indgena Trraba 184 Ryan, Tim 158
Rancho San Miguel (La Gucima) Reserva Indgena Yorkn 173 Ryder, Mildred N. 86
84 Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo
Rara Avis 10, 146, 159 Blanco 9, 16, 108, 112 S
hotels 213 Reserva Selva Bananito 170 Sabana de los Leones (Parque
Recorridos de tores 36, 131, 142 Resplendent quetzals 84, 87, 90, Nacional Chirrip) 181
Refugio Nacional de Fauna 96, 101, 128, 132, 179 Sabana Redonda
Silvestre Barra del Colorado Finca Eddie Serrano restaurants 228
161, 162, 163, 167 (near Genesis II) 96 Sabaneros (cowboys) 130, 131
hotels 214 Reserva Biolgica Bosque see also Cowboy culture
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Nuboso Monteverde 127 Safaris Corobic (near Caas) 130
Bar 176, 182 Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Safety see Personal security
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Elena 128 Sala Garbo (San Jos) 245, 247
Cao Negro 10, 16, 146, 147, San Gerardo de Dota 96 Salispuedes
154 Restaurants and cafs 22037 hotels 205
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caribbean 2356 Smara 122, 123, 140
Corredor Fronterizo 146, 156 Central Highlands 2279 hotels 211
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Central Pacific and Southern restaurants 233
Cur 9, 108, 110 Nicoya 22931 San Antonio de Beln
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Guanacaste and Northern Nicoya hotels 205
Gandoca-Manzanillo 11, 162, 2314 restaurants 228
172 Northern Zone 2345 San Antonio de Escaz 75
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre prices 221 San Cristbal Sur 97
Golfito 192 San Jos 2246 San Gabriel 97
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Southern Zone 2367 San Gerardo de Dota 82, 96
Isla Bolaos (Baha Salinas) 132 tipping 221 hotels 205
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre types 220 restaurants 228
Ostional 122, 140 see also Food and drink San Gerardo de Rivas 11, 178
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Retornos 19, 34, 244 hotels 219
Pejeperro 191 Rich Coast Diving (Playas del San Isidro de Coronado 82, 93
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Coco) 253 San Isidro de El General 176, 178
Preciosa Platanares 190 Ridley turtles see Olive ridley festivals 35
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre turtles hotels 219
Punta Ro Claro 188, 190 Rincn restaurants 237
Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre hotels 219 San Jos 8, 12, 17, 43, 44, 46,
Rancho Merced 182 Rincn de la Vieja 5379
Religion 18 hotels 211 area map 545
Reserva Absoluta Nicolas Rincn de la Vieja National Park climate 39
Weissenburg 112 see Parque Nacional Rincn entertainment 244, 245, 246, 247
Reserva Biolgica Bosque Nuboso de la Vieja festivals 34, 35, 36
Monteverde 16, 125, 127, 248 Ro Agujitas 190 getting around 55, 27071
Reserva Biolgica Durika 179 Ro Chirrip 178, 250 hotels 200203
Reserva Biolgica Hitoy-Cerere Ro Corobic 130, 250 Parque Nacional: street-by-street
162, 170 Ro Naranjo Valley 116 map 689
Reserva Biolgica Isla del Cao Ro Pacuare 9, 80, 101, 102 restaurants 8, 2246
175, 176, 184, 252 Ro Platanares 190 San Jos Center: street-by-street
Reserva Biolgica Isla Guayabo y Ro Reventazn 9, 82, 98, 100, 101, map 567
Isla Negritos 111 102 shopping 8, 238, 239, 240, 241
Reserva Biolgica La Danta Ro San Juan 145, 156, 251 Street Finder maps 769
(Escaleras) 182 Ro Sarapiqu 146, 156 San Jos de la Montana
Reserva Biolgica Lomas Barbudal Ro Savegre 96, 116, 250 restaurants 228
122, 130 Ro Tabacn 148 San Marcos de Tarraz 97
Reserva Biolgica Nosara 140 Ro Tarcoles 9, 108 San Miguel de Escaz 75
Reserva Biolgica Oro Verde 182 Ro Tempisque 142 San Pablo de Len Corts 97
Reserva Bosque Nuboso Santa Ro Terraba 184 restaurants 228
Elena 124, 128 Ro Turrialba 101 San Rafael de Escaz 75
Reserva de la Biosfera La Amistad Ros Tropicales 251, 253 San Vito
179, 248 Riptides 253, 259 restaurants 237
Reserva Forestal del Humedad Rivera, Diego 40, 74 Sanborns 265
Nacional Terraba-Sierpe 176, Rivers see Ro Sanchez, Oscar Arias 47
184, 185 The Rivers of Costa Rica: A Sancho, Jos 67
Reserva Forestal el Rodeo Canoeing, Kayaking and Rafting Sandinistas 46, 135
(Universidad de Paz) 86 Guide (Michael W. Mayfield and Sansa (airlines) 266, 267
Reserva Indgena Boruca 176, 184 Rafael E. Gallo) Santa Ana cave (Parque Nacional
shopping 239 Road hazards 268 Barra Honda) 143
Reserva Indgena Cabagra 184 Road network and classification Santa Ana
Reserva Indgena Chirrip 268 restaurants 228
(Turrialba) 101 Road signs 2689 Santa Cruz 5, 122, 142
Reserva Indgena Curr 184 San Jos 271 festivals 35, 36
Reserva Indgena Guaym 192 Rodeos see Retornos hotels 211
Santa Elena see Monteverde Snake farms and gardens (cont.) Taller Eloy Alfaro (Sarch) 86
and Santa Elena World of Snakes 9, 86 Tamarindo 10, 122, 123, 136, 137
Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve Snakes 157 hotels 212
see Reserva Bosque Nuboso Snorkeling restaurants 234
Santa Elena Baha Drake 190 sportfishing 251
Santa Mara de Dota 97 Isla Tortuga 111 Tambor 108, 109, 111
restaurants 229 Playa Conchal 136 hotels 208
Santa Rosa National Park Tamarindo 136 restaurants 231
see Parque Nacional Santa Rosa see also Scuba diving Tango Mar Resort (Tambor) 108,
Santamara, Juan 70, 84 Social customs 257 111, 208
Sarapiqu Heliconia Island 146, 158 Sodas 220, 221 Tapant-Macizo National Park see
Sarch 9, 82, 86 Somoza, Anastasio 46, 135 Parque Nacional Tapant-Macizo
restaurants 229 Soto, Bernardo 45 la Muerte
shopping 239 Southern Zone 8, 11, 17493 Tapirs 181, 191
Savegre Mountain Hotel Biological area map 176-7 Trcoles 114
Reserve (San Gerardo de Dota) 96 getting around 177 Taxis 267
Savegre hiking 11 Teatro Chaplin (San Jos) 244, 247
hotels 208 hotels 21619 Teatro Eugene ONeill
Scarlet macaws see Macaws indigenous reserves 11, 184, 192 (San Jos) 244
Scuba diving 2523 Parque Nacional Chirrip 18081 Teatro Laurence Oliver (San Jos)
Baha Drake 11, 190, 252 Peninsula de Osa 18891 244, 247
Isla del Cao 184, 252 restaurants 2367 Teatro Melco Salazar (San Jos)
Isla del Coco 193, 252 scuba diving 11 54, 56, 58, 245
Islas Murcilagos 134, 252 Spanish conquistadors 42, 107, 175, Teatro Nacional (San Jos) 8, 19,
Southern Zone 11 188 51, 52, 53, 57, 6061, 2445,
Sea travel 265 Specialized lodging 198 Teatro Variedades (San Jos) 57
Selva Bananito Reserve Specialty stores 240, 241 Telegrams 263
hotels 215 Specialty vacations see Outdoor Telephones 2623
Selva Verde 10, 146, 156 activities and specialty vacations Television 263
Selvatura Park 128 Spirit Airlines 264, 265 Temperature 389
Sendero de los Montculos Sportfishing 117, 251, 253 Templo de Msica (Parque
(Nacional Monumento Guayabo) Baha Drake 188 Morazn, San Jos) 66
104, 105 Golfito 176, 192 Tennis 250
Sendero Indio Desnudo (Parque Playa Carrillo 140 Teortica (San Jos) 238, 241, 247
Nacional Santa Rosa) 135 Playa Flamingo 136 tepezcuintles 192
Sendero La Catarata (Parque Playa Ocotal 136 Termales del Bosque (Ciudad
Nacional Tapant-Macizo la Quepos 108, 116 Quesada) 155
Muerte) 161 Refugio Nacional de Fauna Terraba-Sierpe National Humid
Sendero Los Patos (Parque Silvestre Barra del Colorado 167 Forest Reserve see Reserva
Nacional Santa Rosa) 135 Tamarindo 136 Forestal del Humedad Nacional
Sendero Mirador (Parque Nacional Sports 19 Terraba-Sierpe
Manuel Antonio) 119 Stanley, Rodolfo 19 Theater 244, 247
Sendero Sueco (Cabo Blanco) 112 Street hazards 258 see also Teatro
Sendero Termometro (Parque Sunscreen 249, 251, 259 Thermal pools
Nacional Chirrip) 180 Surfing 9, 251 Balnearios Termales Orosi
Serpentariums see Snake farms Baha Salinas 132, 251 (Orosi) 100
and gardens beaches 11, 137, 172 San Gerardo de Rivas 178
Shamanism 41, 173 Cabo Matapalo 190 Tabacn Hot Springs Resort
Sharks Dominical 11, 176, 182 and Spa 10, 146, 148
Freshwater sharks 156 Jac 108, 251 Termales del Bosque (Ciudad
Hammerhead sharks 21, 193 Laguna de Arenal 146, 251 Quesada) 154, 155
Shopping 23843 Pavones 176, 192 Volcn Miravalles 131
Sierpe Playa Guiones 140 Thirio, Charles 66
hotels 219 Playa Naranjo 134 Ticabus 265
Sirca 265 Playa Santa Teresa 112 Tico Times 244, 251, 263
Sistema Nacional de Areas de Playa Sombrero 190 Tico Windsurf Center
Conservacin (SINAC) 16, 248, Playa Zancudo 251 (Nuevo Arenal) 152
253 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca 172 Tienda de la Naturaleza
Skutch, Dr. Alexander 178 Tamarindo 137 (Curridabat) 240, 241
Sky Walk/SkyTrek (Reserva Bosque Tilawa Viento Surf Center Tilarn 122, 130
Nuboso Santa Elena) 128 (Laguna de Arenal) 152 hotels 212
Sloths 20 Zancudo 11 Tilawa Viento Surf Centre
Aviarios Del Caribe Wildlife Swimming 253 (Laguna de Arenal) 152
Refuge (sloth research) 162, 170 Time 257
Small Distinctive Hotels of Costa T Tipping
Rica 198, 199 Tabacn (town) 10, 259 hotels 199
Small Unique Hotels 198, 199 restaurants 235 restaurants 221
Smoking 221 Tabacn Hot Springs Resort and Tirimbina Rainforest Reserve 10, 155
Snake farms and gardens Spa 10, 146, 147, 148 Tiskita Foundation Sea Turtle
Instituto Clodomiro Picado 82, 93 Talamanca Treescape (Genesis II) 96 Restoration Project (Pavones) 192
Parque Viborana (near Turrialba) Talamanca Association for Tiskita Lodge (Pavones) 192, 218
101 Ecotourism and Conservation Toad Hall (Laguna de Arenal) 154,
Serpentario (Santa Elena) 124, 126 (ATEC) 173 234, 239
Snake Garden (La Virgen de Talamanca Mountains 11, 173, 175, Toads see Frogs and toads
Sarapiqu) 155 249 Tobacco Shop (San Jos) 240, 241
Tobias Bolaos domestic airport Universidad de Paz 82, 86 Wetlands 21 see also Mangroves
(San Jos) 55, 109 Upala 147 Whale Marine National Park see
Tolstoy, Alexey 86 festivals 37 Parque Nacional Marino Ballena
Topes 19, 34, 131, 142, 244 Uvita Whales 11, 111, 182, 190
Tortuguero (village) 167 hotels 219 Humpback whales 118, 182, 189
hotels 21516 restaurants 237 What to wear 257
restaurants 236 United Airlines 264, 265 Whitewater rafting 102, 25051,
Tortuguero Canal US Airways 264, 265 253
see Canal de Tortuguero U-Save 269 Ro Coribic 130, 250
Tortuguero National Park see Ro Pacuare 9, 82, 101, 102, 250
Parque Nacional Tortuguero V Ro Reventazn 9, 82, 101, 102,
Tourism 17 Vaccination 259 250
Tourist buses 267 Valern, Macedonio Quesada 100 Ro Savegre 116, 250
Tourist information 256, 257 Valle de El General 175 Whitten, Dr. Richard 128
Tour operators 248, 253, 267 Valle de los Conejos (Parque Wiffield, Henry 66
Tours Nacional Chirrip) 181 Wilderness lodges 1967, 199
Canal de Tortuguero 167 Valle del Ro Chirrip 178 Wild cats 96, 110, 113, 130, 170,
La Ruta de los Santos 9, 82, 97 Valle del Ro Savegre 116 179, 180
see also Organized tours Vara Blanca jaguars 23, 127, 171, 191
Traditional music 245 hotels 205 jaguarundis 110, 127, 171
Transnica 265 restaurants 229 margays 110, 127, 171
Travel information 264-71 Vargas, Don Balvanero 165 ocelot 96, 110, 127, 171
air travel 264, 266 Vargas, Don Clorindo 90 oncillas 110, 171
boats 267 Vaya con Silla de Ruedas 199 pumas 127, 171
buses 265, 2667, 270 Veragua Rainforest Research and Wildlife 2021
Caribbean 163 Adventure Park 25, 162, 170 Wildlife-viewing 249, 253
Central Highlands 83 Villa, Aleardo 60 see also National parks and
Central Pacific and Southern Villablanca Cloud Forest Hotel (Los wildlife reserves
Nicoya 109 Angeles Cloud Forest Private Wilson Botanical Gardens (Las
driving 265, 2689 Biological Reserve) 878, 205 Cruces Biological Station) 179
Guanacaste and Northern Nicoya Villegas, Olger 66 Wind turbines 150, 152
123 Virgin of Guadalupe (Miguel Windsurfing see Surfing
Northern Zone 147 Cabrera) 142 Witchs Rock (Playa Naranjo) 134,
organized tours 248, 253, 265, 267 Visas 256 137
San Jose 55, 55, 27071 Vivero Popor (near Tilarn) 130 Witchs Rock Canopy Tour
sea travel 265 Vivero Solera (near Tambor) 111 (Baha Culebra) 136
Southern Zone 177 Volcn Arenal 20, 145, 146, 147, Women travelers 257
taxis 267 148, 149, 153 Woodwork 240, 242
Travel websites 264, 265 Volcn Barva 91, 92 World of Snakes (Grecia) 9, 86
Travelers checks 261 Volcn Cacao 132
Travelocity 264, 265 Volcn Chato 149 Y
Tres Mujeres Caminando Volcn Iraz 83, 93, 103 Youth hostels 199
(Francisco Ziga) 74 Volcn Orosi 10, 132
Tribunal Supremo de Elecciones 68 Volcn Pos 82, 84, 889, 90, 153 Z
Tropical flowers 183 Volcn Rincn de la Vieja 132 Zancudo 11, 176, 192
Tropical heliconia see Heliconia Volcn Turrialba 41, 103, 101 hotels 219
Tuasa 267 hotels 206 restaurants 237
Tucux dolphin 172, 173 Volcn Turrialba Lodge sportfishing 251
Turrialba 9, 82, 101 (Parque Nacional Volcn Zarcero 9, 82, 87
festivals 37 Turrialba) 103, 206 Zipline tours 24, 25, 249
hotels 205 Volcanoes 9, 81, 121, 153 Arenal Rainforest Reserve and
restaurants 229 see also Volcn Aerial Tram 149
Turrialba Volcano National Park Votos 41 Selvatura Park (Reserva Bosque
see Parque Nacional Volcn Nuboso Santa Elena) 128
Turtles see Marine turtles W Talamanca Treescape (Genesis
Twight, Dr. Clodomiro Picado 93 Walker, William 35, 44, 45, 84, 135 II) 96
War of 1856 35, 44, 45 Termales del Bosque (near
U Waterfalls see Cascada, Catarata Ciudad Quesada) 155
Ujarrs (Orosi Valley) 71, 98, 99, Waterfalls Canopy Tour (Jac) 114 Zona Protectora Volcn Miravalles
100 Water sports 122, 131, 153
festivals 37 see Kayaking, Scuba diving, Zoo Ave Wildlife Conservation
United Fruit Company 45, 175, 192 Snorkeling, Surfing, Whitewater Park 9, 82, 84
Universidad de Costa Rica rafting Ziga, Francisco 19, 66, 67, 74
(San Jos) 54, 71, 92, 93 West, Charles Lankester 93 Ziga, Manuel Mlico Salazar 58
284 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the Production Controller
following people whose contributions and Wendy Penn.
assistance have made the preparation of this
book possible: Additional Special Photography
Christopher P. Baker, Alan Briere, Jonathan
Main Contributor Buckley, Martin Camm, Geoff Dann, Phillip Dowell,
Christopher P. Baker was born and raised in Neil Fletcher, Frank Greenaway, Colin Keates,
Yorkshire, England, and received his B.A. with Dave King, Mike Linley, Ray Moller, David Murray,
Honours (1976) in Geography from the University Stephen Oliver, Clive Streeter, Harry Taylor, Mathew
of London. While there, his travels included two Ward, Laura Wickenden, Peter Wilson, Jerry Young.
Sahara research expeditions. Baker holds two
Masters degrees in Latin American Studies and Special Assistance
in Education. He has made his living as a full-time Many thanks for the invaluable help of the
professional travel writer/photographer since 1983. following individuals and establishments: Adolfo
Bakers numerous books include guides to Rodrguez Herrera; Mrs. Dora Sequeira, Alejandra
Jimenez Solis, and Andrea Bolaos Waters, Museo
Cuba, Costa Rica, and Jamaica, and Mi Moto Fidel:
del Oro Precolombino; Dr. Luis Diego Gmez,
Motorcycling Through Castros Cuba. He has also
Organizacin para Estudios Tropicales at La Selva;
had chapters and articles published in several
Mauricio P. Aymerich, Small Distinctive Hotels;
books and more than 150 newspapers, journals,
Michael Snarskis.
and magazines worldwide. He has won many
prestigious awards for travel writing, addressed Photography Permissions
prominent entities such as the National Press Club, Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the
the National Geographic Society, and the World following for their assistance and kind permission
Affairs Council, and escorted group tours to New to photograph at their establishments: Caf Britt;
Zealand, Hong Kong, Korea, Cuba, and England. Centro Costarricense de Ciencias y Cultura, San
Bakers other travel-related activites include Jos; Costa Rica Expeditions; Fbrica de Carretas
teaching travel-writing classes, appearing on radio Joaqun Chaverr, Sarch; Museo del Oro
and TV shows, and lecturing aboard cruise ships. Precolombino, San Jos; Museo Nacional, San
Jos; Teatro Nacional, San Jos; Zoo Ave Wildlife
Fact Checker
Conservation Park; and all other cathedrals,
Ana Voiculescu.
churches, museums, hotels, restaurants, shops,
Proofreader galleries, national and state parks, and other
Sonia Malik. sights too numerous to thank individually.
Indexer Picture Credits

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286 P H R A S E B O O K
Phrase Book
Costa Rican spanish is essentially the same as door is open. Buena suerte (good luck) is often
the Castilian spoken in Spain, although there are used to wish someone well on parting.
some differences in vocabulary and pronunciation. The most common term throughout the country
The most noticeable is the pronunciation of the is pura vida (pure life), used as a common reply
soft c and the letter z as s rather than th. to questions about your wellbeing and as an
Costa Ricans tend to be formal, and often use expression that everything is great. Tuanis, popu-
usted (rather than t) for you, even if they know lar with youth, is another phrase meaning things
the person well. Common courtesies of respect are positive. If you hear a Costa Rican referring to
are expected. Always say buenos dias or buenas chepe, he or she is speaking about San Jos. If
tardes when boarding a taxi, and address taxi you wish to decline goods from street vendors, a
drivers and waiters as seor. Many colloquialisms polite shake of the head and a muchas gracias
exist, such as upe!, which is used to announce will usually suffice. Adding muy amable (very
your presence outside someones home when the kind) will help to take the edge off the refusal.
In an Emergency Useful Words

Help! Socorro! soh-koh-roh big grande grahn-deh
Stop! Pare! pah-reh small pequeo/a peh-keh-
Call a doctor! Llame a un yah-meh ah oon nyoh/nyah
mdico! meh-dee-koh hot caliente kah-lee-ehn-teh
Fire! Fuego! foo-eh-goh cold fro/a free-oh/ah
Could you help Me podra meh poh-dree-yah good bueno/a bweh-noh/nah
me? ayudar? ah-yoo-dahr bad malo/a mah-loh/lah
policeman polica poh-lee-see-ah open abierto/a ah-bee-ehr-
toh/tah
Communication Essentials closed cerrado/a sehr-rah-doh/dah
Yes S see left izquierda ees-key-ehr-dah
No No noh right derecha deh-reh-chah
Please Por favor pohr fah-vohr near cerca sehr-kah
Thank you Gracias grah-see-ahs far lejos leh-hohs
Excuse me Perdone pehr-doh-neh up arriba ah-ree-bah
Hello Hola oh-lah down abajo ah-bah-hoh
Good morning Buenos das bweh-nohs dee- early temprano tehm-prah-noh
ahs late tarde tahr-deh
Good afternoon Buenas tardes bweh-nahs now/very soon ahora/ahorita ah-ohr-ah/ah-ohr-
tahr-dehs ee-tah
Good night Buenas noches bweh-nahs noh- more ms mahs
chehs less menos meh-nohs
Bye (casual) Chao cha-oh very muy mwee
Goodbye Adis ah-dee-ohs a little (un) poco oon poh-koh
See you later Hasta luego ah-stah loo-weh- opposite frente a frehn-teh ah
goh below/above abajo/arriba ah-bah-hoh/
Morning La maana lah mah-nyah- entrance entrada ehn-trah-dah
nah exit salida sah-lee-dah
Afternoon La tarde lah tahr-deh stairs escaleras ehs-kah-leh-rahs
Night La noche lah noh-cheh elevator el ascensor ehl ah-sehn-sohr
Yesterday Ayer ah-yehr toilets baos/servicios bah-nyohs/sehr-
Today Hoy oy sanitarios vee- see-yohs sah-
Tomorrow Maana mah-nyah-nah nee-tah-ree-ohs
Here Aqu ah-kee womens de damas deh dah-mahs
There All ah-yah mens de caballeros deh kah-bah-yeh-
What? Qu? keh rohs
When? Cundo? kwahn-doh sanitary napkins toallas sanitarias toh-ah-yahs sah-
Why? Por qu? pohr-keh nee-tah-ree-yahs
Where? Dnde? dohn-deh tampons tampones tahm-poh-nehs
How are you? Cmo est koh-moh ehs-tah condoms condones kohn-doh-nehs
usted? oos-tehd toilet paper papel higinico pah-pehl hee-
Very well, Muy bien, mwee bee-ehn hyen-ee-koh
thank you gracias grah-see-ahs (non-)smoking rea de (no) ah-ree-ah deh
Pleased to Mucho gusto moo-choh goo- area fumar (noh) foo-mahr
meet you stoh camera la cmara lah kah-mah-rah
Im sorry Lo siento loh see-ehn-toh (a roll of) film (un rollo de) (oon roh-yoh
pelcula deh) peh-lee-
Useful Phrases koo-lah
Thats fine Est bien ehs-tah bee- batteries las pilas lahs pee-lahs
ehn
passport pasaporte pah-sah-pohr-teh
Great/fantastic! Qu bien! keh bee-ehn
visa visa vee-sah
Where does this Adnde va esta ah-dohn-deh bah
road go? calle? ehs-tah kah-yeh Post Offices and Banks
Do you speak Habla ingls? ah-blah post office oficina de oh-fee-see-nah deh
English? een-glehs correos kohr-reh-ohs
I dont understand No comprendo noh kohm- stamps estampillas ehs-tahm-pee-yahs
prehn-doh postcard una postal oo-nah pohs-tahl
I want Quiero kee-yehr-oh postbox apartado ah-pahr-tah-doh
P H R A S E B O O K 287
cashier cajero kah-heh-roh ambulance ambulancia ahm-boo-lahn- see-

ATM cajero automtico kah-heh-roh ahw- ah
toh-mah-tee-koh mosquito coils espirales ehs-pee-rah-lehs
bank banco bahn-koh
What is the dollar A cmo est ah koh-moh ehs- Transportation
rate? el dolar? tah ehl doh-lahr
When does the A qu hora ah keh oh-rah
leave? sale el? sah-leh ehl
Shopping Is there a bus to? Hay un bus a? eye oon boohs
How much does Cunto cuesta kwahn ah
this cost? esto? tohkwehs- bus station la estacin de lah ehs-tah-see-
tah ehs-toh autobuses ohn deh aw-toh-
Do you have? Tienen? tee-yeh-nehn boo-sehs
Do you take Aceptan ahk-sehp-tahn ticket office la boletera lah boh-leh-teh-
credit cards/ tarjetas de tahr-heh-tahs ree-ah
travelers crdito/ deh kreh-dee- airport aeropuerto ah-ehr-oh-poo-
checks? cheques toh/cheh-kehs ehr-toh
de viajero? deh vee-ah-heh- customs la aduana lah ah-doo-ah-nah
roh taxi stand/rank la parada de taxis lah pah-rah-dah
discount un descuento oon dehs-koo- deh tahk-sees
ehn-toh car rental rent a car rehn-tah cahr-
expensive caro kahr-oh motorcycle la moto(cicleta) lah moh-toh(see-
cheap barato bah-rah-toh kleh-tah)
clothes la ropa lah roh-pah bicycle la bicicleta lah bee-see-kleh-tah
size, clothes talla tah-yah 4WD doble traccin doh-bleh trahk-
size, shoes nmero noo-mehr-oh siohn
bakery panadera pah-nah-deh ree-ah water-taxi una panga/ oo-nah pahn-gah/
bookstore librera lee-breh-ree-ah un bote oon boh-teh
grocers pulpera pool-peh-ree-ah aerial tram telefrico teh-leh-feh-ree-koh
market mercado mehr-kah-doh insurance los seguros lohs seh-goo-rohs
shoe store la zapatera lah sah-pah-teh- gas station gasolinera gah-soh-leen ehr-ah
ree-ah garage taller de tah-yehr deh
supermarket el supermercado ehl soo-pehr- mecnica meh-kahn-ee-kah
mehr-kah-doh I have a flat tire Se me ponch seh meh pohn-
travel agency la agencia de lah ah-hehn-see-ah la llanta shoh lah yahn-
viajes deh vee-ah-hehs tah
Sightseeing Staying in a Hotel

bay baha bah-ee-ah I have a Tengo una tehn-goh oo-nah
beach playa plah-yah reservation reservacin reh-sehr-vah-see-
building edificio eh-dee-fee-see-oh ohn
cathedral catedral kah-teh-drahl Do you have Tienen una tee-eh-nehn oo-
church iglesia ee-gleh-see-ah a vacant room? habitacin nah ah-bee-tah-
farm finca feehn-kah libre? see-ohnlee-breh
forest bosque/selva bohs-keh/sehl- double room habitacin ah-bee-tah-see-
bah doble ohn doh-bleh
garden jardn hahr-deen single room habitacin ah-bee-tah-see-
lake lago lah-goh sencilla ohn sehn-see-yah
mangrove manglar mahn-glahr room with habitacin ah-bee-tah-see-ohn
mountain peak cerro seh-roh a bath con bao kohn bah-nyoh
mountain range cordillera kohr-dee-yeh-rah shower la ducha lah doo-chah
museum museo moo-seh-oh The is not No funciona noh foon-see-oh-
neighborhood barrio bah-ree-oh working el/la nah ehl/lah
port puerto poo-her-toh Where is the dining- Dnde est el dohn-deh ehs-tah
ranger station puesto de poo-ehs-toh deh room/bar? restaurante/ ehl rehs-toh-rahn-
guardia goo-ahr-dee-ah el bar? teh/ehl bahr
river ro ree-oh hot/cold water agua caliente/ ah-goo-ah kah-lee-
trail sendero sehn-deh-roh fra ehn-teh/free-ah
theater teatro teh-ah-troh soap el jabn ehl hah-bohn
tourist information oficina de oh-fee-see-nah deh towel la toalla lah toh-ah-yah
office turismo too-rees- moh key la llave lah yah-veh
viewpoint mirador mee-rah-dohr
ticket el boleto/ ehl boh-leh-toh Eating Out
la entrada lah ehn-trah-dah
Have you got Tienen mesa tee-eh-nehn
guide (person) el/la gua ehl/lah gee-ah
a table for para ? meh-sah pah-rah
guide (book) la gua lah gee-ah
I want to Quiero kee-eh-roh
guided tour una visita guiada oo-nah vee-see-
reserve reservar reh-sehr-vahr
tah gee-ah-dah
a table una mesa oo-nah meh-sah
map el mapa ehl mah-pah
The bill, La cuenta, lah kwehn-tah
please por favor pohr fah-vohr
Health I am a Soy soy veh-heh-tah-
I feel ill Me siento mal meh seh-ehn-toh vegetarian vegetariano/a ree-ah-no/na
mahl waiter/waitress mesero/a meh-seh-roh/rah
We need a doctor Necesitamos un neh-seh-see-tah- menu la carta lah kahr-tah
mdico mohs oon meh- fixed-price men del meh-noo dehl
dee-koh menu da dee-ah
drug store farmacia fahr-mah-see-ah wine list la carta de lah kahr-tah deh
medicine medicina meh-dee-see-nah vinos vee-nohs
288 P H R A S E B O O K
glass un vaso oon vah-soh Culture and Society

bottle una botella oo-nah boh-teh-
campesino cahm-peh-see-noh peasant
yah
canton cahn-tohn county
knife un cuchillo oon koo-chee-yoh
carreta cah-reh-tah oxcart
fork un tenedor oon teh-neh-dohr
cumbia coom-bee-ah Columbian music
spoon una cuchara oo-nah koo-chah-
Josefino hoh-seh-fee-noh resident of
rah
San Jos
breakfast el desayuno ehl deh-sah-yoo-
marimba mah-reem-bah kind of
noh
xylophone
lunch almuerzo ahl-moo-ehr-soh
merengue meh-rehn-geh fast-paced
dinner la cena lah seh-nah
Dominican
main course el plato fuerte ehl plah-toh
music
foo-ehr-teh
sabanero sah-bah-neh-roh cowboy
starters las entradas lahs ehn-trah- das
salsa sahl-sah Cuban dance
dish of the day el plato del da ehl plat- toh dehl
music
dee-ah
Tico/ tee-coh/cohs-tah- Costa Rican
rare trmino rojo tehr-mee-noh
costarricense ree-sehn-seh
roh-hoh
medium trmino medio tehr-mee-noh
Numbers
meh-dee-oh
well done bien cocido bee-ehn koh-see- 0 cero seh-roh
doh 1 uno oo-noh
chair la silla lah see-yah 2 dos dohs
napkin la servilleta lah sehr-vee-yeh- 3 tres trehs
tah 4 cuatro kwa-troh
Is service included? El servicio est ehl sehr-vee-see- 5 cinco seen-koh
incluido? oh ehs-tah een- 6 seis says
kloo-ee-doh 7 siete see-eh-teh
ashtray cenicero seh-nee-seh-roh 8 ocho oh-choh
cigarettes los cigarros lohs see-gah-rohs 9 nueve nweh-veh
food stall una soda oo-nah soh-dah 10 diez dee-ehs
neighborhood bar una cantina/ oo-nah kahn-tee- 11 once ohn-seh
un bar nah/oon bahr 12 doce doh-seh
13 trece treh-seh
Menu Decoder (see also pp222-3) 14 catorce kah-tohr-seh
15 quince keen-seh
el aceite ah-see-eh-teh oil
16 diecisis dee-eh-see-seh-ees
las aceitunas ah-seh-toon-ahs olives
17 diecisiete dee-eh-see-see-
el agua mineral ah-gwa mee- mineral water
eh-teh
neh-rahl
18 dieciocho dee-eh-see-oh-choh
el arroz ahr-rohs rice
19 diecinueve dee-eh-see-
el azcar ah-soo-kahr sugar
nweh-veh
una bebida beh-bee-dah drink
20 veinte veh-een-teh
boca boh-kah a type of snack
30 treinta treh-een-tah
el caf kah-feh coffee
40 cuarenta kwah-rehn-tah
la carne kahr-neh meat
50 cincuenta seen-kwehn-tah
el cerdo sehr-doh pork
60 sesenta seh-sehn-tah
la cerveza sehr-veh-sah beer
70 setenta seh-tehn-tah
el chocolate choh-koh-lah-teh chocolate
80 ochenta oh-chehn-tah
la ensalada ehn-sah-lah-dah salad
90 noventa noh-vehn-tah
la fruta froo-tah fruit
100 cien see-ehn
el helado eh-lah-doh ice cream
500 quinientos khee-nee-ehn-tohs
el huevo oo-eh-voh egg
1,000 mil meel
el jugo ehl hoo-goh juice
1,001 mil uno meel oo-noh
la leche leh-cheh milk
5,000 cinco mil seen-koh meel
la mantequilla mahn-teh-kee-yah butter
la manzana mahn-sah-nah apple
los mariscos mah-rees-kohs seafood Time
el pan pahn bread one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
las papas pah-pahs potatoes one hour una hora oo-nah oh-rah
las papas a la pah-pahs ah lah French fries Monday lunes loo-nehs
francesa frahn-seh-sah Tuesday martes mahr-tehs
las papas fritas pah-pahs free-tahs potato chips Wednesday mircoles mee-ehr-koh-lehs
el pastel pahs-tehl cake Thursday jueves hoo-weh-vehs
el pescado pehs-kah-doh fish Friday viernes vee-ehr-nehs
picante pee-kahn-teh spicy Saturday sbado sah-bah-doh
la pimienta pee-mee-yehn-tah pepper Sunday domingo doh-meen-goh
el pollo poh-yoh chicken January enero eh-neh-roh
el postre pohs-treh dessert February febrero feh-breh-roh
el queso keh-soh cheese March marzo mahr-soh
el refresco reh-frehs-koh soft drink/soda April abril ah-breel
la sal sahl salt May mayo mah-yoh
la sopa soh-pah soup June junio hoo-nee-oh
el snguche sahn-goo-she sandwich July julio hoo-lee-oh
el t negro teh neh-groh tea August agosto ah-gohs-toh
la torta tohr-tah burger September setiembre seh-tee-ehm-breh
las tostadas tohs-tah-dahs toast October octubre ohk-too-breh
el vino blanco vee-noh blahn-koh white wine November noviembre noh-vee-ehm-breh
el vino tinto vee-noh teen-toh red wine December diciembre dee-see-ehm-breh

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

Exotic fLora birDs

The information in this

Tropical rainforest in Parque Nacional Corcovado, Peninsula de Osa

THE SOUTHERN ZONE TRAVEL INFORMATION

TRAVELERS GENERAL INDEX

WHERE TO STAY 196 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

GUANACASTE AND OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

DISCOVERING COSTA RICA 811

Centro Costarricense de Ciencias y Cultura, San Jos 5)&$&/53"-

lush valleys, culminating atop

of Guaitl (see p143). The are concentrated in two

The Caribbean offers three

Putting Costa Rica on the Map

Administratively, the country is divided

Central Highlands, with some 350,000 Golfo de

ISLA DEL COCO Isla Manuelita

Cabo Lionel Isla Montagne

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA

b Nueva Guinea Gulf of

Puerto Viejo Tortuguero

ier PUNTA RENAS b

Straddling the Meso-American Central American nations, with

A farmhouse on the flanks of Volcn Arenal, in the Northern Zone

Columbus stepped ashore in 1491, are

appointed by the Supreme Court over-

Traditional oxcart used for farming in the Costa Rican countryside

THE ARTS AND SPORTS the National Symphony

An exception to the insipid art of the Ricans are passionate

Landscape and Wildlife

LOWLAND RAINFOREST MONTANE CLOUD FOREST

DRY FOREST WETLAND

Bats comprise more than Mangroves, which

Iguanas are camou- Crocodiles and small caimans

The Rainforest Ecosystem MAJOR RAINFOREST

Bromeliads adorn the branches.

Buttress roots have evolved to hold towering trees

Heliconias grow abundantly on the forest floor, and

Walking palms literally migrate across

The soilof rainforests is thin since leaf litter

Squirrel monkeys, or titis,

The upper canopy

The jaguar, known locally as tigre,

Pit vipers are well

Toucans are easily

Aerial trams operate like ski lifts,

All forest types in Costa Rica, from dry

Trails with interpretive signs,

Suspended walkways held

Birds of Costa Rica

The green macaw or Buffons

Trogons are pigeon-sized

Toucans, easily recognized

SEABIRDS Brown pelicans are

Hummingbirds, named for the bee-like hum

The scarlet macaw (lapa roja) is blood red, with

Tanagers are small,

Vultures are found across

Beaches of Costa Rica

Playa Conchal, or Shell Playa Flamingo

snow-white beach, comprised -PT$IJMFT

GUANACASTE AND -B'PSUVOB b

NORTHERN NICOYA $JVEBE

Playas del Coco /JDPZB b