—— f VOL NOLs hee ema eee TM ae TS) TS aeRO ey eee) eee OE Ue ee a ee el SOLAR ENERGY, THE ULTIMATE POWERHOUSE 381 PU ea) Cee Pie sees re ALIOURNAL PF THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY wasuinoroxTHIS THE NATION'S 200th WINTER, with costly fuel combusting in furnaces and engines at an alarming pace, it may seem odd to suggest that the United States is nat confronted. with an energy shortage. Yet, viewed in longer perspective, it is true. The shortage is one of time, Since our political revolution of 1776, we have undergone two transformations in the field of energy: from wood to coal, and from coal to oil and gas. Dr. Robert C. Seamans; Jr., Administra~ tor of the Energy Research and Development Administration (ERDA), points out that each tran- sition took about 60 years. ‘Now, with the end of the petroleum era in sight, we face another energy revolution. This time we can contemplate fuel supplies as limitless as the sun and the sea. Inexhaustible solar energy, for example, waits to be converted into power; author John L. Wilhelm explores the prospects on page 481 of this issue. The breeder reactor defies lay- man's logic by promising to produce more fuel than it consumes. And in time nuclear fusion may utilize isotopes freely available in seawater. Such processes promise ample energy. What we do not haye is 60 years to make them work. Tt is the task of ERDA to buy time, while wean- ing us from dangerous dependence on petroleum. Recently Dr, Seamans—a member of the Na- tional Geographic Society's Board of Trustees— reviewed ERDA's priorities for me. He stressed conservation of énergy in its end use: in automo- hiles, homes, and industries. Also, more efficient production of energy, including its extraction from waste heat and waste materials. Gradually our energy-supply patterns will alter. . * From now until 1985: renewed emphasis an coal (especially conversion to gas and liquid fuels); expansion of safer, more efficient nuclear power; search for new oil and gas sources, * From 1985 to 2000: accelerated development of synthetic fuels from coal and shale. More use of geothermal energy and solar heating and cooling. ond 2000; vigorous pursuit of “ineshausti- ble” energy sources such as the breeder reactor, 1, and solar electricity. No doubt our ingenuity can devise means of holding down energy consumption and tapping ‘new sources. But can itdo se before petroleum be- comes too precious to burn? That depends on how wisely we use our searcest commodity: time. More power to ERDA—and to us. Llet Med tucorié- NATIONAL March 1976 PATAGONIA 1-Argentina Protects Its Wildlife Treasures 296 Zoologist William G. Conway reports on a remote, little-known frontier of natural wonders —and heartening efforts to safeguard it. u-A Wild Shore Where ‘Two Worlds Mect 298 Spectacular color portraits of the denizens saonia's coast are brought back dlife photographers Dex and Sen Bartlett, ii—At Home With Right Whales 322 A Society-aided study of the southern right whale (8 pursued by Rover and Katy Payne, along with their “luckiest children an earth.” Indiana's Self-reliant Uplanders 541 Ax, plow, anvil, and gun are still tools of life for many in the Hoosier State's southern hilly. James Alexander Thom and J. Bruce Baumann Visit a region that clings to yesterday. Canterbury Cathedral 364 A medieval masterpiece remains the heart of the Church of England. Kenneth MacLeish and Thomas Nebbia explore its past and present giory. Solar Energy, the Ultimate Powerhouse 381 John L. Withelm and Emory Kristof document seience’s efforts to fulfill an ancient dream by lapping the limitless pawer of the sum, Frost, Nature's Icing 398 Natural science photographer Robert F, Sisson peers into the delicate warld af freven vapor. Sicily, Where All the Songs Are Sad 407 Howard La Fay and Jonathan Blair roam a history-haunted Mediterranean istand made melancholy by centuries of exploltation. COVER: 4 right whale ar play breaches eff Patagonia’s bleak and timeless desert coast. Photograph by Des and Jen Bartlett; 289Argentina =- === Patagonian shore. Here, parched desert confronts life- teeming ocean, live armadillos and sea lions, dolphins and penguins, sand-dwelling rodents and shore-hugging whales. Invaded in the 1800's by fur-and-oil S hunters who all bat annihilated some species, the isolated coastal strand lately has richly repopulated itself. Now, animal treasures rediscovered, Prtauonia is striving to preserve them for future generations, By WILLIAM G. CONWAY Photographs by DES and JEN BARTLETT 290OSE TO THE GROUND, snuffling al nong the penguins, the nor- mally wary armadillo se med danger: ously oblivious of its shadower—me. Evidently | was perceived only as one more among a colony of nearly a million Magel- lunic penguins For all its seeming unawareness, an animal of a kind that has survived almost unchanged in Patagonia for nearly forty-five million years merits a biologist’s sincerest respect Vet today that respect is tempered with ¢ cern, is again an increasing potentially dangerous presence ameng Pat- agonia's unique, sometimes bizarre, and now abundant wildlife: As it happened, the armadiilo ambled safely away among the penguins with a free: dom ensured, in part, by the remoteness of ina’s far southern region. for man Onee ne ly destroyed by overhunting, thi we was slowly restored by ets and isola vast natural rx combination of changing mark tion, Today Patagonia’s wild treasures are newly accessible, fascinating but little studied —and highly vulnerable to disturbanee and exploitation. In many ways the coastal crea. tures have been rediscovered, and this time there is some reason to hope that they may better survive man's renewed interest. than once a polite listener to my tale 's wild animals has interrupted “But—just ¢ The well-publicized visits of Ma Drake, and Darwin notwithstandin: agonia is not a household word. Beside rary bow have varied both with the y nost people spea that great arid ctly where iy lan P; liar bot “ars and with geographers. Today ing of Patagonia refer to pampa in Argentina thatHAVE PUXES, 9 r ~ ahead, of them, Mazellanié Penguins gather ona Pategonian Wore i multitudes inknousi here! frany than a century. Once sauchtered for f ‘ond and —stretches from the Rio Negro in the north to ‘Tierra del Fuego in the south, and from the Andes to the Atlantic Ocean (map, page 297). From the standpoint of wildlife, the coast of Chubut Province is Patagonia’s heartland. Except for the Andean region of its far west, Chubut is mainly a-desert. Until very recently it has been largely uninhabited. It appears overwhelmingly bleak—wind, sky. dust, and monotonous miles of broken plateaus thinly covered with hostile thorny shrubs. Life clings to.a yellow flaky soil that is dominated by round, timeworn pebbles. Food-rich Current Sweeps Barren Shore At the coast Chubut meets a sea of huge: tides with sterile yellowish cliffs, wind-eroded red rocks, or wide, steep shingle beaches, The province's frontier with the South Atlantic is ‘one of the world’s most. starkly forbidding coastlines. Here the desert’s bizarre, depaup- erate animal community mingles with great colonies of marine birds and mammals at- tracted by the rich food supply of the cold Falkland Current as it brushes the shore on its way north from Antarctica. Among the land creatures that dwell where the desert mects the sea, it is as if all extrav- agance had been muted by the energy te- quired to survive the extremes of climate, Ancient, conservative life forms are the rule, clothed in the brown, gray, and tan colors familiar to all who study desert fauna. Coast- al seals, whales, and seabirds add little but black and white. It is the strangeness of these creatures, and their large numbers, and, especially, the fact that they exist in this harsh environ- ment at all, that give Patagonia’s wildlife unique interest. The vast penguin rookeries, groups of somnolent elephant seals and noisy “lobos,” or sea lions, on the shingle beach, the slowly swimming whales—all convey a feel- ing of timelessness, primeval and undisturbed, ‘One of the penguin rookeries ranks among the world’s largest! The region's southern elephant seal breeding ground is the only continental colony of its kind on earth. And Patagonia’s southern right whales are the remnant of an endangered species in its largest known nursery (see article beginning on page 322). Tn five visits to this harsh and beautiful coast, I have yet to see the Atlantic horizon 294 smudged by a passing steamer. There can be few places left where man's hand is so tittle in evidence, his existence seemingly of se lit- He consequence. The bleak shoreline with its dangerous weather has provided a mainland refuge for animals that elsewhere live only on islands. But the history: of the coastal creatures has been complex and violent Early Patagonian Indians ate giant ground sloths, prehistoric horses, and glyptodonts— large extinct relatives of the armadillo. All three had vanished long before the first European, Ferdinand Magellan, arrived in Patagonia in 1520. Later tribes of Indians must regularly have killed.as many nesting penguins and cormorants, along with seals and sea lions, as they wished. Beginning in the 1800's and continuing into the 1950's, Europeans took up the hunt—relentlessly, Since Patagonia was devoid of roads and inhabited by hostile Tehuelehe Indians, European sealers approached from the sea. They systematically exterminated many of the sea lion and elephant seal rookeries. Even the penguins were killed and boiled down for their oil, while the southern right whale was so reduced in the waters nearby that it verged on extinction. Finally, with the most accessible animals eliminated, the slaughter let up. Renewed isolation began its slow, restorative work. Penguins Retum to Site of Slaughter Along the Patagonian coast today there may actually be more bird colonies than there were a century ago. When British ornithol- ogist Henry Durnford wrote of his visit to Chubut’s Punta ‘Tombo in 1378, he made no mention of Magellanic penguins, although subsequent excavations suggest that they had been there earlier. Now nearly a million Magellanic penguins raise their chicks here (preceding pages) Almost every form of life that Magellan might have seen during his visit in 1520—ex- cept for the Indisn—is still extant in Pata- gonia and, in some instances; increasing. But there is one crucial difference: The protective isolation has been shattered forever: A campaign to open up the Patagonian “frontier” has resulted in newly improved roads, new industries, and growing towns, Even a casual visitor can now see almost National Geographic, March 1976all of Patagonia’s fascinating wildlife within yards of his car. There are no dense jungles, no dangerous diseases; no unpleasant insects. ‘Onee again the stage is set for an extraor- dinary wildlife slaughter, though of «differ ent sort from the past. The threat today is one of gradual destruction through thoughtless disturbance and careless development. Yet, conversely, the stage is also set for a break- through in the history of man’s relatianships with colonial animals. Which way will Patagonia’s rediscovered coast go? Will its creatures be wiped out, this time with the permanence made possible by modern efficiency? Will the evelopment of the coast be planned with the preservation of wildlife and scenic yalues in mind? In most places the answers to these questions would, be depressing. Bul something strange appears to be happening in Chubut- ‘Covernment Attuned to Wildlife Needs: Far from initiating a new round of killing and exploitation, Chubut’s growing accessi- bility seems to have ushered in an equally new interest in tourism. In a remarkably short time the provincial Department of ‘Tourism and Wildlife, led by a dynamic director, Antonio Torrején, has set up- a sys- tem of wildlife reserves and parks. ‘These reserves are small but effective, pro- viding not only protection by wardens but. also interpretive centers, school programs, and housing for visiting scientists. Indeed, Chubut's mix of wililife research, tourism, and park development may be the best pos- sible alternative to destructive exploitation in Patagenia scientists from the New York Zoological Society, with support from the National Geographic Society, rub elbows with Argentine biologists, Their pres- ence and their studies may help forestall the fate usually suffered by large concentrations of wildlife in developing, areas. ‘There is a chance, albeit a modest ‘one. What happens on Argentina’s last frontier could have great influence on the future of Latin-American wildlife. One catvanly hope that significant numbers of Patagonia’s braying penguins, magnificent whales, sea lions and elephant seals, curious theas and primitive guanacos will continue to provide perspective and delight te future generations of man, Atlantic ve Ocean — E-Strwit of Magellan q ind Islands Priva = Between two worlds, the Patagnciian coast of Argentina affords its rich array of animal life-a feast-and-famine envirooment. While land-oriented mammals eke out the harest subsistence, marine marimals toll just offshore in relative ease —tite the dusky doipbin somersaulting out of the water (left), Two reasons far the unusually: fertile offshore waters: relative isolation from human exploiters, and the cold but plankton-rich Falkland Current sweeping along the Patagonian littoral The nearly landlocked bay of Golfo José on wind-pummeled Peninsula Valdés has been set aside as a marine y Argentina's Chubut Pravince, 297In the morning calm, ostrichlike PATAGONIAS WLLD SHORE Where Two Worlds Meet A PHOTOGRAPHIC PORTFOLIO BY DES and JEN BARTLETTand Jen Bartlett, a.sifted husband-and-wife photo- graphic team, “we have net often encoun- tered such an amazing variety of wildlife, both above and within the sea. Coastal Pata- sonia, because of its isolation, is a natural treasury of countless species either endan- gered or unknown elsewhere in the world.” For two years the Bartletts explored a 200- mile segment of the Patagonian coast ta ture on fim what had intricued the grei British naturalist, Charles Darwin. Survival Anglia Lid., producers of natural history around the world.” report De: motion pictures, sponsored their expedition. So unusual was the region that Darwin devoted several pages of his 1839 journal to observations on its flora and fauna* So un- femain that Argentina has taken eve it intact. Nature-helps keep, the idly curious away by adding fierce, un- predictable winds to the desolate terrain. “There is a saying,” remarks Jen Bartlett, “that if you want to see Patagonia, just sit still lony enough and it will all blow past you." "That journey: wae retraced by: Alan Villiers, “In the 1's Being.” for the October 1964 N,“YYMNASTS OF THE 5) usky dolphins cavert al A the AS atives of the bottle-nc e! at aerial acre Je dolphin may excite the le school,” reports Des Bart h, others will follow suit a Teap s aults as beauti- grace. ful us any we have seen among dolphin neath the surface the “cu wed equally frolicsome " slayed their own version of ‘chicken th us," Jen Bartlett adds traight at us I s and veering off only at the last moment. Not once did they mis judge and even g demonstrate their the dolphins from o time would poise beside the then streak out of oth. t left glides past 1 at a range of less tha nearly the maximum for aphs in Golfo San José On hunting forays the dolphin: k in teams, driving schools fish to the surface, where alert gulls ecting, the dolphins seem nore the o onal presence of a shark,msi PT VMELEsS FRONTIE and sea yields f i of dh {have inhabited Pata: million: s identify a pr lehe, Indi The calandrias their ane chick te easons. The rest fell ators such as foxes i Shore; Where TJTOW YOU DON'T see it u do; The tawny above) When i isibl right), constru bristling nest, of thornTIERCE. IN STARE and also the t-tyrant (below s a_ he: t only when compared to the hummingbirds. In ned scrub the minute flycatcher is less often seen than heard, whirring its Wings and trilling Like its North American cousin the peludo, or hairy armadille (bot- tm), relies on a portable shield for protection. A keen nose and power- ful claws compensate for poor ey sight as it inseets, bird lizards, and carrion. Spiny symmetry of a Pata actus (bottom center} adorns the re in a fle underground.of the ¢ ight), Cr at. the Des Bartlet for an un neart: are mile unt relative of th 16-inch-long tin except to escape pred shrill morning and evening whistling indi- cates its whereabouts in the brush. In @ rare reversal of rol tinamou alone it or more females deposit them in his nest (below AND ME mthern lapy the Bartlett in duels ¥ me al its home te the nest,” Des y by watching both from a distance with pinpoint the siteYEATHL ful whale loft a full-grown tremendous,” ob- rves Des Bartle idering that the sea ion may weigh several hundred pound The Bart eve the techniquRi € 1 rowds the tip of a sk eninsula believed to be the only ht to nest only of South nsive red mask more timid rock ¢ wice,and died.TO SWIM ing, Magell till in their « pherd are used fe course the South Only the imperative of another genera bitds back to shore“And God created ¢& Jerous Fe: TONS of po atagoni: frames, taken just over one second, shaw a whale near the peak of its leap at whale (right), then on its downward course (tap and middle), a finally, in a thunderous reunion with the sea (bottom), Author Payne believes the maneuver Here may be a way of sayin 1 am!” to other whalesAt Home With In Patagonia a noted zoologist and his family continue research into the life of these giants of the sea 41s pace ros outYY LATE AFTERNOON intermittent squalls had developed. in ent 2. In our research station over- looking Argentina’s remote Patagonian cnast we watched the wind whip the ocean before us into a maelstrom. All seemed secure behind our concrete block walls until I glanced out the window at the porch roof, With ominous sounds it began to part company: from the house, threatening the Patagonian desert. Shout: ing for help to my two colleagues, Christopher Clark and Bernd Wuersig, I dashed outside abbed a loosened rafter. Chris and Bernd joined me and for 20 minutes we hun on for dear life, alternately being lifted off our feet and set back on the ground as we strug ed to lash the roof fast ally we managed to run a.rope from the » our truck and secure it. The storm nd we all trooped back inside Such are the winds abated, years my wife, Katy, and T have survived them. We make laim to be winning. merely surviving. Other creatures along the coast fare con er Often at the ht of such blows we have seen what jons offshore, up geysers of water that w nd hustled away by the wind Whales Revel in Stormy Seas tout, | The creat perform these acrobat from. the: norm: world tt cS ate Se ¢, 40 aloof jorment and buffetings of at they are, quite literally, pl with The same wind that threatens man and his works with destruction is apparently a jovial playmate, a source of boisterous entertainment, toa whale This spectacular combination of wild storms and wild whales occurs at Peninsula Valdés, an enormous cape locked bu ne twe large a table of Al in Pat the souther aie 297). In this isolate plants, animals; and land jerce and un. What predictable w shall we do today? dowing « levi author's wife nt skim alongside a piebald if foldout, left) A 01 Golfo San Jou. Through abave} he uses a dish antenni powered recorder to investigateGeographic Society, has made Patagoni for his suburban Ne { family. To children on vacation ives. ThIhave c lt es that appear ibsetve the rare south Loss w r they arrive to mate, calve oung. My interest in studying stemmmet ve yeurs of re umpback 'son) ours, chains of on end in I ideal site a lead fron to exp! Hera, k, an s profoundly changed my [if family. | have always taken our four children with me an maic Dur first full-scale stud: rinsula in 1971, John: was 9, Holly At first we all lived ts, but later we built « primitive concrete-block buildi + ithout such luxuries as: bent, Hightit plumbing—in which to work and citi made four ex New ¥ we have = At Home With Right Whales uthern: sop whale a1 inthans Have Colossal Birthmarks f the thing: were ideal for all whal that convin study , they are = called ¢ ns calle 5). On every right and f dorned with whale the shape number, size ities are resumably unique, making iduals af Loft nany inche ter surface, The rough surface of lent anchor reatures such as whale ice, barnacles, and smaller organisms, which hiteh a ride on the whale and f " pills sth or on bits of dead kin flaking off The largest callosity appears as it the whale’s head. The old whalefrom som mewhat like a 1th (above). To the hale to hunt b from them. Curious! » the sam aly in the eall mustache sideburr ater from entering t je. Other speci ash-deflecting structu ure usually fairinys, ar rid) ¢ blowhole, qu from the NationalBonnet raised, » whale surf hs ust beneath the waterline (below), presur mpetitor’s flank the adult tant Such a k Ain the very est whale species £ of When you first see hat attracts your Iso taught us that sp i. The spourure's breath, Like all breathe air to survive at whale the spout ap- cloud other great whale slawhol The crea » has not visible has tof much speculation. Wild rapher Des Bar slow-motion film, along h observations y the question of our own, has helped clari Those observations suggest that a visible spout results principally from the atomiza tion of wat nclin, rils when the animal armed further that invi often alternate visi . je, and that ore spouts are see indy day's calm ones ‘T aturally. i re Way ish Breath Brings Life—and Danger i right whales are being pur ale underwater, th they must be at the surface js twofold, since it exposes the st possible time and als d, they reducing the he advan- vhale make s can swim much faster submerged than on the suri ational Geographic, Marchurry of suitors roils al floats by In this society, many oF all are ose of a white a likely to win the female's favor, Gestatie period among n The aut! the tens of thousands that ro das lor of the sea before man and harpoon entered ne picture Perhaps the most surprisit in a herd of r Although six or more mal direct competition feature 0 peacefuln frequently e (left), T have never see off between individuals. In fact, the that can po: nt of as will 2, kick mother whale simy it as if her peacef endless resouroe f nd the call a many a. ¢ rou resting mother for hours ff her flukes, ling up onto her back cove je with its tail, breaching zainst her repeatedly, butting into her flank all without perceptible reaction from th other, When finally st 1 to the o her back like flip: : may be only to roll embrace the infant i Some abservets maintain that whales have halitesi ve had many whales breathe pers, holding it until it calms down, Itis hard in me at close range, but ofly onee have 1 to think of comparable equanimity amor Hed fetid breath ny other mammals, including man A whale's breath may give i life, but, als Children Lear in Nature's Sehool it s the animal, often fatally. In many casts it is the'spout that announces the he most rewarding as presence of the whale to the Valdés is the rare ver we siw a spout at Pen Jed our children lated life we led raised some ques- 50 took note, but instead of trying to close + a kill, we sat back and watched carefull our friends and fellow parents en for hours or even days at a time. Ste ahout whether the children longed for their ve rs, we began to learn something chool, baseball, and televis se Of course th suc | lives ¢en would g # behind ou! flats that school, so T gave that up and started doing a severe limy this. That waslax. He { hickory in a sturc: 1 shaving horse and pu drawknife toward 1 along ly to study the grain of the pices, pa of the The knife hissed; long, white dl piled up at his feet. Not wood. curk hese out in eigh 't work that hard minute nymore Frank's opi ion are three ss-produced ax | Ale: "They're ng with the m in hard ried, and th tmake: And. Frank tomers who come middleman’s share. He can keep up with, and airs and « and crafts he said. “They me when we LT trophy, Frank.’ I told him: ‘Well, I didn’t even know then That's the way it goes, T work trophie T shave an arts uess. Tf you're won't get naybe you're work ou wil Our handle haved them s0 ry. held th h of an inch of be His knife hi ding wa thes ng identical would have pa at we ought hand Frank re) His chickens his cl David idles in the me (lef), “You have to b ind a pee Orts chest a life nid-May their or as already produced a healt Cindy to harvest (right), A dam built will back anew lak That's too close," says Or another spot for seclusion Indiana's Self ked if he hac come by his limp at. No, he saic it by infan denty 1 unde alk to Told me he didn’t see how I'd ever been able to do a 's work in my life IKE GENERATIONS of ana natives, Frank has southern Indi- urvived on his the mi cover In Mar alvation a few year nity called Pacla half of the land County wood proved to be the ago of an unusual eomsecluded valley'to visit this comm whose buildings of logs and re lumber, dirt streets, bearded men, sheltered women, and active children sus: of an American pioneer town (fs ‘Theté are no telev Yet Padanaram rors with modern tech. diesel-powered forklifts ch: around the log yard, grabbing up hat s. From the tin-roofed sawmill « bling humps, the metallic w of hi busy mi sawn ing: page) ion sets arge wood rattles anne d saw the yells and whistles plume of sawdust stacks of graded lumber An independent log ler rig was ui udmiration ane waiting while bis shook his heact he cuttin’est ‘Tt's about mill 1 know HE MILLION-DOLLAR-A-YEAR saw- mill and the village it supports are the inspirations of 57-year-old Daniel Wright who had been an itinerant preacher (below) The ideal of a self-suffi ‘nt utoph an society is the motivation of Padanaram’s 140 citizens and the closest thing to a common religion They speak fervently of their unique bro pod and their freedom from the ies” of the outside world aying here,’ carpenter, 8 certain that Pad inter after of mystical visions, Daniel tried to an agrarian commune here on 6 with 11 followers. Months of bad weather and crop failures ensued. hen,” Daniel said, “for the first. time we really saw the timber we decided to build a sawmill made $4,000-in it 1 now own mortzage-free hich all adul ave equal share The people of Padanaram have faced the hostility and suspicion of neighbors, politi cians, and some newspapers critical of cor muinal living. S arm because the commune was adjacent to the Crane Naval Weapons Support Center. Little by little those attitudes have changed The commune is open ta visitors on Sunda and by special invit rated by m Delinquent and n, and the set is now tal 1 actmii homeless t th girls sometimes are plai The tioned in the Book of Ger amed is like an Old Testament patriarchy. “The men do the harel Work and make the decisions here,” said Daniel. “The wives serve their men, cook and wash, and bear and tend babies.” More than forty chi n have been be Padanaram, usually by natural chil with midwives and husbands in-atten close to nature and hare m youngsters might be seen quietly Patriarch of Padanaram, 3 self uilficient community’ he foufed. im i. Daniel Wright (left te settlement of 140 people nurtures Built lic sses are often held outed um pme and go as they wish acher Steven Fuson, “They're all active and h because we 1 try to subdue then National Geographic, MurchEarth mother, enee a suburbs ¢ running abou forward, imitating | arena PADAN, jee! secure use brotherhood of capable kind of security’ ¢ work in cold, cinkle-deep any, and our little group of with food and rjects that one easily one. One 5 st cellar, t next mber The hare the w th “We jus rely on are t them imagine. it va winter evenin| early in the th ands“Surely the Lord is in this place’ Canterbury Cathedral By KENNETH MacLEISH Photographs by THOMAS NEBBIA HERE A ited in t NV A FEW of them | rve centers of the Weste uynterbury dn many occasions and Massive masonry though responds to the world silver atches light lows, it seems, according to majestically, awesomely. 1 saw it in its entirety from Christ in C n its many moo it is, the cathec around it. The sof and tone ¢ just once ce to offer that entrancing view Bell Harty Tower, the “que Christen whose turrets above the church's floor Why Bell Harry? Jim Beasier, the vesturer explains: “On the tower's top the bell that rings rather a lot, and her name is Harry ‘That's right: her name, ells are girls. No one is sure who the original Harry. w The stone spiral by which we ascend winds within its circular shaft. Each step is wedge; foot-worn, rough-faced. Befe eyes the patiern is unchanging: straight lines, men 0 raburh, in a from Rome converted Ethel: nity sronghold Kent,” C bert, the king of Kent. The nuiler helped establish the firstcathedral af Canterb 1 twice by fire, and twice rebuilt, the cathe dictine monastery assumed much af their hown in rs sketch (left cts the buildin brown cellent water raged rats and the monks hy unscathed belpe or Black Death—scourge of sth-century Europe In an Elizabethan dra right), the cathedral nates at xd by tified I whose Roman foundations date irc century in identical array around the a hypnotic which we wind without appa through symmetr ved lines, sameness in nt prog al surround Suddenly, a bre: ural effici id a wild wet wind. In the woe stretches green, gracious Kent, gently disarrayed. Below us huddle the red roofs and winding lanes of C: uty, Where the mystic soul of England took form cy into anterbury Predates Chi The town, part of it still walled, rests uins of a town spread upon another nother still. Canterbury came uries before the birth hat overlie: y existence a few ce of Christ for a good and simple reason—a reason we could see, if the driven clouds would let us. Here the bed of the River Stour 6 aeeftpate cack, vad pe shoea shallow ford, the 1m venient ern En. whereby travelers in sout nd could reach the Channel coast a few miles w The Celtic Britons built a little fortified community beside it. Before long the Romans came, saw, and conquered it, along with the rest of England They stayed 400 years Durovernum ( the place. And so, because of her geograp! uation, Canterbury vader from across the Channel t outpost, then a king's capital, of the English Church Im, as She became And she acquired a cathec Not the splendid. medieval edifice on whose tallest tower we now stand, but only the first of several built, destroyed, and rebuilt on this There was no such building in the planned Roman town, with its straight naled streets ‘I was none in the he Roman ruins by the Sa Angles wha came after the legions to shore up Rome's arming. out we ‘or a couple ¢ much happened across the Rive Jutish king ni Stour. Then, in a d Ethelbert made it his The event was that jy have been heraleied in the f history by more than the toot lute. Yet within his re Durove: in. plain headquarters it could hard! halls m, rechristened antwaraburh—*stronghold of the en of Rent”—becume the first city of En And the badge of its 5 athedral in Eng Ethelbe be macy, the firs! s castle the resicle f Roman monk: low ¢ old of his castle?” J monks et lL asked Jim Brasier. Well, it. was all because of a Pope's pun Gregory, it was. Saw some beautiful, fair- haired boys up fe at the Roman slave He said, ‘What are those?" meone they were An s, but s! quipped G He decided t ‘erbury Cathedrat 1 of the Angles would get into heav led pelbert, w that these angelic types n, where they belonged arty. He made friends 0 not only got baptized, Augustine with F but gave Au buildings, and went to live e Augustine and other ewhere stablished their gustine cathedral nearby, Probably right on the spot where our cathedral stands today Augustine did more than convert Ethel bert's gift into a church and monaste started an abbey outside the city walls jolemn footfalls punctuate the close of ceremonies (facing page) enthroning Fred. erick Donald Coggan (aboy the one undted and frst Archbishop of Cante bury on J $, 1975 Amon Archbishop's predecessor ns date kc nearly ea cd Enplish history nmer annulled King Henry to Anne Boleyn. Stephen welped win the Magna Carta from nn. Thomas Becket who court with King Henry I, earned an‘Church was’ his administrative seat as Arch- bishop \of Canterbury. The abbey was a sanctuary in which monks lived apart from the world, praying and contemplating. With- in the slowly coagulating country of England, the cathedral knew no peer. ‘Things were looking up in Cantwaraburh. Its secular ruler, Ethelbert, had extended his control throughout the southern purt of En- gland, and its pair of ecclesiastical communi ties surrounded it with a double-cistilled odor of sanctity. Wrote the Venerable Bede, “Happier times than these never were since the English came into Britain. . ..” Italian Restored Church's Greatness: ‘The hidden sun sank behind a curtain of roiling cloud. As we wound dewn to reenter the 20th century, it struck me that the somber scene we'd Iéft evoked the dismal days that followed Bede's cheery declaration. Just so had troubled darkness swept over this pleas- ant land, bringing with it plague, corruption in Church and State, political chaos, Dunish raiders and, 67 years after the millennium, the destruction by fire of Augustine’s cathedral it was time for a new era. The new era came with William and his Norman con- querots, and with the new Archbishop of Canterbury he brought from Normandy, a brilliant Ttalian churchman named Lanfrane Lanfranc was a cleric and a lawyer. This duality of bis nature brought about in En- glind an awareness of the rélationship be- tween Church and State that has been basic to British and British-related societies to this day, Lanfranc felt that temporal affairs sad be the concern of State, spiritual that of the Church, Thanks: to Wil: thane success at Hastings, the State was in good shape; but with the Cathedral Church ‘of Christ in scorched ruins and the monks and brothers of abbey and cathedral at petulant odds with one another, the Church was in dismal straits With genuine piety, legal skill, and a cer tain number of well-forged documents, Lanfranc restored the first See of England to its proper level of authority and prosperity. He stitched back into the vast and varied cloak of the cathedral's real properties many segments ripped off by compulsive baronial thieves, both Saxon and Norman. In accomplishing this he left, according to D a contemporary report, nothing to chance; he renewed “all the liberties of his chureh and all its customs, Soca, Saca, Toll, Team, Flymena- fyrmthe, Grithbrece, Foresteal, Haimfare, In- fangentheof, with all other customs equal ‘to these or inferior to these on land and water, in woods, ways, and meadows; and in all other things, within and without cities and burgs, and in all other places.” You get the picture, if not the precise meaning. The Archbishop's gale of verbiage Jed to the return of-all church properties, and perhaps a few others besides. ‘Lanfranc obtained from William a precious bit of vellum, now known as the Accord of Winchester, that reaffirmed the primacy of Canterbury in. the English Church— specifically over York, whose Archbishop, ‘Thomas, signed with the grudging comment, “Concedo” (I concede), instead of the “Sub- seripsi” (L subscribed) of the other bishaps, And Lanfranc constructed another cathe- dral, the second house of God on this spot, to replace the charred and gutted mins of Augustine's church, This the Archbishop did. between L070 and 1077 But neither was it Lanfranc’s church with- in-whose massive walls we spiraled dow ward in dusty dusk, Less than seventy y after it was completed, that noble stood transformed Its ares had doubled. Its choir, particularly, hadl grown greatly in size and maxnificence Even the old Norman erypt was extended and heightened to give the church its most. charac- teristic and special aspect: that of rising by broad flights of steps from nave to choir and choir to apse. Choirboys Have Tarnished Halos This immense renovation of the cathedral 50, soon after its completion says something fundamental about medieval man and his ‘Church—something that is hard for us, living in a time when religion seems to mean <0 little to so many, to understand. The Church of the Middle Ages was a vital part of every person's life; the source of charity, education, and protection, and the way to an afterlife as real as life on earth. Nothing was too good— or good enough—for a monument raised to the glory of God. Jim was rattling at another door. “Follow me," he said. “We're below the level of the National Geographic, March 1976arches now. We'll go out on the walkways windows and se Lanfrane built it be th century. A stairway n have used. Careful! The stone's Cathedral Ravaged by Blaze ge upan the spot hristmas in the year cathedral: A murder nd alter the | and, incidentally, change the physica! he cathedral,of saints—were properties that brought thful, and, hence, money to the ous houses The acequisitic of Becket’s body gave € superior rank to ¢ clear supremacy in among those lusty opti s of Chaucer's Canter Becket 1 city ands ul was wor Becket alive than perate. A great for the mangled body 1 the wh end w splend just east form of the eathed te resentatic the richest relic Martyred Beeket Loyal to God Who was Becket, before death bro; ater honors than those he ife? A London-born Norman of and ck « became the t end of the temperamental He Henry pushed Becket 1 him ev ry Hl, and ncellor of Englane nto bishopric against his will dverhis stern warning. As the king’s friend he was the king’s man. As Archbishop he wa: tent, God's m: mie ex une d elegantly, but under ibroidered silk often wore coarse hair or burlap tunies, dirty and louse infested. Arrogance and humility Recket's soul. Bi was always a fighte ht te defend the role and realm had been forced on bir Becket had to die. “Are there my table who will r ne 1 me of this who eat low-born clerk?" roared He Anel specially from every shires ende Of Engelond to Canterbury they wendle The hooly blisful martir for to veke in his company eowar dese set todo the king’s apparent bidding What happened then bi ys and films, and noth n fully describe it. In brie Angevin pique. Four knig! derided that the word “cai ihe the nterbi Thus were pilgrims drawn in Chauc made books time, and so they are today (ahoye), even though Henry VIII dur mantled He shrim ng of lesser scope The four killers came into Canterbury on in ion pesto marae «dank December day, pickin ew af Poa oe ree Bee Becket's local enemies on the way. After heen? eval friend. Made Arch tempestuous me with Becket in his bishop of Canterbury, he later found Henry’s lace they left, shoutin arms!" A li “ iter, Thomas and his atvendants entered of Henry the cathedral f \e cathedral His ca d to ‘close the daor at top), December 24, 117% but Becket stopped them. “The Church of licies unaceep and he chose: t kei facing pai dered him init to be ma The murderers came calling for Becket r to the ki And he answered his nto a forteess,” he enemies, “Here am T; no traitor, but a. priest of God The ill elanked, for a Then, with raised swords in their victim, Thomas ainful, “Tam r ¢ for my Lord, that in m the Church +r berty and | dl in The first st d through his scalp but still he prayed. Three more blows, and he silent. One of his enemies reached with a sword point and spilled his bra’ g, “He will rise no m: r did he. But Christendom did, ir On the Church stood ny the le of Europe and the 3 and barons who so often abused the their eye the stone floor, sayin unbled Murderous King Tt yt—it Chaucer’ words the “holy blissful martyr.” King H knelt in repentance and ha himself beaten d alone by his darkness of wertuil the aas's saréloni ting: “A aint you give to th indeed my Lord, but Lord as well Almii ine Becket in his lifer saint than three ye murder. And pilgrims, humble, noble, ever sof his bones. f Sprang ye of the most important towns istian world. ap in Canterbury now become Canterbury's 1170 (and, thre of the relic 1530's, in which Henry VHT he h by becomi all 5 Thomas in the from the Geographic, March 1976English heavens. He had the martyr's remains ‘burned and his images destroyed. The shrine’s treasure was carried away to London in 26 wagons, tind its greatest gem, the Résale de France, soon graced Henry's fat thumb, The age of pilarimages ended. The Abbey of Saint Augustine was dissolved, as were all others in England. The cathedral establish- ‘ment, with its prior and monks, became and still is a chapter, consisting of canons to ad- minister the see and a dean to take ultimate ‘responsibility. The Archbishop, being Primate of All England, madé a home in London (as he still does) and visited Canterbury as a guest of the dean. Having destroyed so much, Henry made one creative move: He founded the King’s School, in honor of himself. Church Stands the Test of Time Isat enchanted through the vesper service, then joined the present dean for tea at the deanery, a. warm and wonderful old mansion within the Preeinets. The Very Reverend Lan White-Thomson is a tall, spare man, gentle but direct and keen. “Our pastoral responsibility is great,” he told me. “After all, we're not a museum. Our church was built for the glory of God, for His worship. It exists for that, not for the interest ‘of tourists—who, nevertheless, we most warmly welcome. We'll go on with this living church regardless of what happens in the world, and pass it on to the next generation. Because it is God's house. “We can't begin to take care of this vast place alone. So we've launched an appeal for three and a half million pounds [about seven million dollars], Sounds a lot, doesn't it? But "he ran long fingers through thinning gray hair", , well, I'm just thinking of hearing an American woman say: ‘When I came into the cathedral, [felt as if Td died and gone to heav- ven.’ And, vou know, if only'a few can feél that ,, then everything that has been done or ever will be done here is justified. “Why did people build this cathedral, and the one before that? For God. Time was no object. Money was no object. Tt was ‘Let's do the best we can’ And it’s in the stone. "The stone speaks." That eloquent man!I didn’t bear his charm- ing wife, Wendy, come in with tea and cakes. She, unassuming, did not interrupt. The dean jeaned back and spoke softly: Canterbury Cathedral “Tn the sanctuary today, as I turned toward the congregation, 1 caught a glimpse of the lovely clock that hangs on the north side of the cathedral. You've seen it? I looked at it through the stone: sereen that encloses the choir. The pendulum was swinging, ticking, ticking away the seconds of my life—and indeed of everyone else's life. Time against the timelessness of the immutable stone: We move on, The church stands.” It stands, and will continue to stand, even though the stone and glass of its fabric are not literally immutable. They seem so to the human mind, and thus give great comfort. Cathedrals are built for the centuries, but centuries can melt the most massive masonry. Said Peter Marsh, the cathedral architect and Surveyor to the Fabrie: “A building like thiscan be made immortal by the constant re- placement of its worn-out parts. Some might argue that if you replace everything, you have a new building. But that’s false reasoning, ‘This maintenance is a continuing process, as is the replacement of cells in the human body. A man's skin restores itself, but that doesn't make him a new man.” Craftsmen Preserve Ageless Structure I went out of town to see Brian Le Mar at the Cathedral Restoration Centre, where re- placement stones are shaped. “We're working on the southwest trans- cept's gable end just now,” he told us. “It's pretty far gone. If we Jet it alone, it would eventually collapse. You've seen the scaffold- ing covering its great windows? We go up and take measurements, from which we pro- duce drawings, from which in turn we shape rine templates to guide our stonccutters “Tell take a year to work the stones, one and a half to set them. Before we do that, all the glass must come out for safekeeping.” In the dust-whitened shop half a dezen apprentices, as long-haired as their medieval forerunners, cut up five-ton blocks of lime: stone with an electric saw, worked the pieces into shape with power tools, and finished the elaborate sections with mallet and chisel “When this gable end is in place,” Brian said, “it will look different from the old one. It'll look. the way the old one did when it was Glass, too, needs special care, particularly when it's as old as Canterbury's. Many of thewir me, vietir ucliest of hum: at fanatic 2 treasury of most of them datir h 13th. centurie Frederick Cole has pieces and sees in the Pre: “We got through the war with he said, “The windows Hes hese master why we can’t make ie in the Middle Ag can, But we can't make age Cathedral Doubles as Schoo! Chapel the west window depicting Adam, from Eden, w the soil chemicals and sudden temperat ld, if we could get The Precincts, the walled world ci those of master cur. sin their dininy nounts of convsounding in sequence, then began to practice that traditional English art, the ringing of changes. Nothing in campanology (bell ring- ing) is more complex. Grossly oversimplified, ringing changes means altering, according to fixed pattern, the order in which the bells are tung. This is done by “rope-sight,” wherein ¢ach ringer watches the rope of the bell eis bell is to follow, and pulls his rope accordingly. ‘To give you an idea of the campanologist’s problems, before fleeing from the mind~ bending subject; Twelve bells can be rung 479,001,600 different ways, ‘But the results of these efforts are defined in wondrous words. One “double,” played on five bells, is called “Superlative Surprise Major.” Who could resist that? And consicler the black humor of the miserably married man who ordered at his death “a grand Bob Major and merry mirthful peals” to celebrate his escape from marital strife! Canterbury does not end at the Precincts wall. Nor does anyone in that enchanted world wish it did. As its civic officials rightly insist, Canterbury town would be there any- way. Its location on what is still a major route from Europe to central England would assure that. Modem Pilgrims Ploek ta Canterbury But Canterbury was and isa pilgrim town. Tts two-and-a-half-million annual visitors are pilgrims of a sort. Like their predecessors of Chaucer's diy they pray in the cathedral, buy souvenirs in the shops, and explore the winding ways. | followed this time-honored pattern with Frank Higenbottam, a gentle, warmhearted man, full of wit and wisdom, who had just retired from 35 years as chief of the city library. ‘We wandered around West Gate, a twin- towered entry through the western wall of the town where buses came in with millimeters: to spare, Near there the River Stour splits in two to flow around and through the town, and peaceful old buildings of hand-knapped flint stand along its banks. ‘The overhanging houses seem too pictur- esquely timbered and plastered to be real, but they are as real as they were when Charles Dickens saw and wrote of them, and they were old then. Some were homes of Wulloons and Huguenots who brought weaving to the city in the 16th and 17th centuries, when they Canterbury Cathedral sought sanctuary from religious persecution. in their own countries. Outside the walls modest little Saint Martin's broods away the centuries among gnarled yew trees; the least. pretentious and, at some 1,400 years, probably the oldest church in all England. Cathedral Casts a Special Spell Frank drove to his snug home-on the edge of town, Furniture bulked large and cushiony in the little rooms, but the place held a sense of serenity as dwellings of kind and happy folk often do, His wife, Phyll, made beautiful: sandwiches und put me at ease with her self- less good nature. Frank proudly displayed his new study, built out back, full of books and windows and pleasant pipe smells “f'm well'set up here,” he said. “Quiet. No comings and goings. Down across the mead- ow there is the Stour, where we bathe in the summer and fish too. Oh my, yes: Big sea trout come up here. And if I'm lonely I've only got to go down to the corner. That's my pub there, and there'll be afew of the old boys for a. pint or a game or a natter. Or all three. You know, really, a man can't ask for much No, he can't. At a certain time in any hu- man being's life, serenity becomes the most precious of conditions: And, just as Frank's cozy home gives him that priceless satisfac- tion of spirit, so does Christ Church bestow its special blessing on those who come to it in satiness or despair. ‘The cathedral is old and worn, some of its onee-glorious windows now blind and gray. It is imperfect, for the mind of man, whose creative genius brought it into being, is im- perfect. But it is all the more lovable for that. It is not soul-chilling in superhuman size and symmetry, but warm, attempting the best of beauty. It is forever a medieval cathedral. And the medieval cathedral is the greatest communal work of art that ever existed, be- cause it is the most inspired. ‘Canterbury Cathedral was made and re- made to the glory ef God by inspired men. ‘The old rain-melted walls still stand in their miraculous configuration, a heart-lifting song in stone for thse who will listen—who try to hear. Those who do come swiftly and with an intensity that is overwhelming to the soul- stirring realization that God hears too—that “Surely the Lord is in this place.” a 379dolar Enengy, the Ultimate Powerhouse By JOHN L. WILHELM Photographs by EMORY KRISTOF Th t of the néverse CCPRADDY, ITS SO HOTS cries my snapping his hand back from # grown impatient wi by focusing rays of the sun through the ide, he tries concentrat 6 his hand. Immedi he learns the essence of Leonardo's dictum. ild be mandatory in every Dr. ALL Mlavsky, executive vice- on near This experimen room he country, insi dent of the Mobil Tyco Solar Ene ston. Dr. Mlavsky t believes that people must become aware « mous potential to help solve the threatened If we want to t year economics, ene to begin today: ¢ ever F a solar revolution.” the fire of etheus stol sumed by man has been re resiciues of plants warm rays of aur near nergy ce the earth's rain cycle, power- generators. Windmills that pump Continued on page 385) t, fast, and clean a receiver, ix vaporized into [,022" F 381Average annual hours of sunshingSun uae ee on U8. Energy Sourcesturn beeause of solar-heated currents of air Even the wood with which I stoke my fire- place is a form of solr energy. Like oil and coal, wood is merely solar power captured in convenient packaging. ‘But the earth is fast running out of these precious reserves of “stored sunshine.” At our current pace, we will consume in the next 25 years alone an amount equal to ail the energy used by man in recorded history. If such consumption continues, obviously alter- native sources must be found. And the major- ity of experts with whom T have talked agree that mankind must look to the sun to help solve our energy neces Sun's Energy Is Boundless “The solar eniérgy that falls upon the Ara- bin Peninsula in one year is greater than twice the oil reserves of this entire globe, declares Dr. George C. Saega of InterTech- nology’ Corporation in Warrenton, Virginia. Put another way, the sunshine falling onto Connecticut roughly equals the total energy used in all 50 states. Harvesting this diffuse energy is clearly possible, but doing it eco- homically remains the major problem, As Dr. Robert C. Seamans, Jr, bead of the Energy Research and Development Adminis- tration (ERDA),. Solar energy is, i ways, the ‘white hat’ of energy sources, clean and boundless. We're accelerating its develap- ment, in all its many forms. But to make solar energy economically competitive will require good, hard-nosed engineering.” This year « record 90 million dollars or more will be spent seeking ways to convert sunshine into economical energy, By the end of this century solar technology could fill about 10 percent of the United States’ enengy needs. If this seems a distant prospect, con- ‘sider that it has been 30 years since the en- thusiasts of nuclear energy promised utopian solutions through the power of the atom. Yet atomic energy today accounts for only about 2 percent of U.S. electrical consumption. Already the sun's energy is being put to limited use in homes and buildings around the world. The most commen examples are rooftop solar heaters that provide cheap hot water for washing and bathing. Estimates vary, but certainly more than a million of these simple heaters are now in use world- wide, in such counties as the Soviet Union, Solar Energy, the Ultimate Powerhouse Israel, Japan, and Australia, and in such states as Florida and California. Tn the United States alone, more than 200 houses and buildings are, or soon will be, partially heated (and some partially cooled) by solar energy. Solar-heated government buildings and schools are being built in half a dozen states; sun-heated condominiums are going up in Vermont and Colorado, During the winter in Florida, I tested one of the several thousand solar-heated swim- ming pools in this country. Even though a chill norther was rattling the palms, the water was warm, Electric heating for the same pool would be prohibitive in cost. Today the sun's roaring hydrogen-fucled furnace powers educational-television sets in Africa, offshore Coast Guard buoys, and navigation lights on Gulf of Mexico oil rigs. Even the crucial warning bell and lights of a Georgia railroad erossing rely on the sun to power them, So do emergency call boxes on the Washington, D.C, beltway. And nearly every spacecraft that has ever rocketed sky- ward has depended on purple-blue panels of solar cells. By the year 2000 dawning solar technologies may have become a 25-billion- dollar-a-year industry (roughly equivalent to the size of today's electricul-machinery: in- dustry in the United States). This is the pre- diction of Walter Morrow, associate director of the Lineoln Laboratory of the Massachu- setts Institute of Technology. ‘New Interest Fosters New Firms No wonder that-a solar conference I attend- ed was jammed with scientists from as far away as Australia, Japan, India, and Israel Basement tinkerers traded schemes with corporation executives, while a host of newly formed entrepreneurial firms with catchy names like Solaron and Solarex: recruited eager ecologically minded engineers who, in previous vears, would have signed on with major aerospace companies. “Salar energy’ is where the action is,” de- clared one bearded applicant. Indeed. And bere are some ways scientists hope to switch on to the solar powerhouse: *See “Cin We Harness the Wind?" by Roger Hamil- toa in the December 1975 Navionat: Goocwartcit, and neth F. Weaver's “The Search for Tamarrow's PowClean machi one af several solar engines r Jahn E fa century ago (above) was iit by Swedish on. “Ehis de heat th Expanding bot air drove cel that turne American inv used a tefle om, < a minute Sailors getting the hotfoot on the iron deck Mon ay. Pai el between the Mo he renamed Merrinnu Sharpening the sun's eye, « special plastic lens « solar cell, specte 1 technician Lal ries in left). The m1 inere the electricity. the silicon ce tly from. sunlight collector to b mb retains more than heat from infrared raySun-heated surface water at about 0° F. flows through evaporators to-boit [propane ar ammonia Hot sun, cold sea: Their difference could energy ti ocean power plants o juture. In this design by Lockheed would vaporize a val drive 1 al Solixt-heati TEV With rooftop sheets painted are encased in glass or plastic d southward to catch maximum ture tas mi ipping s solar radiation is so diffuse, the col t cove area, water in piping distributes the h standard duc ators. Or it can be stored in an insulated water ystems operate on much the as gas refrigerators—the re. moval of # 2 cool: Sun Power Cuts Fuel Bills Tam utterly u! this be ih house,” says Mrs. Lat ibing hat it is like to live in a sun-heated home for 18 years. The five Deriver has 600 squi upply about a sand som requ explains Dr. who Color te University they supply all our hot-water Two 18-fot-hi tons of & cylinders, filled with y the heat as the through ther’ from basement to roof just inside the Lif entranceway— a allectors is passe The red-painted column unique totems to today’s solar technology This $10,000 prottype system canno compete with Denver's ch says Dr. L ap naturi ut if the alte ate source in our house were electricity, we would have paid f Solar energy the collectors long age. come. For ex economical h ystem Were available for homes, v tall hevt-metal workers? Electricias It is lear which group would have jurisdiction Another cone fs private builder fact th one percent of the nitect uld nee = impact, contrictors in this co begin installin solar equipment. But National Geographbuilding trades have been traditionally resistant to innovative changes. Standards of equipment performance also © to be set. Building codes need arlapting. ‘The concept of “sun rights” has to be incor- porated into city zoning laws (may a tall building shadow a lower one?), ‘Tax legisla- tion may be needed to allow homeowners credit for solar investments. So far, only a few states have voted such an incentive, even though today’s price tag of $4,000 to $8,000 for a typical solar-heating system is far too steep for most homeowners. However, the experts whom I have polled agree that costs. should drop significantly within three to five years. And when home- owners average initial costs over the lifetime of a solar installation, salar energy can com- pete economically with other kinds of energy Tn several sections of the country where fuel costs are high, such as Boston, solar already is cheaper than electric heating A Word of Warning far the Eager ‘Dr. Peter Glaser, a Solar engineer at the Arthur D. Little research firm in Cambridge, ‘Massachusetts; urges caution for those who would rush out to be the first'on their block to install solar heating and cooling systems: Glaser's arlvice: “Wait—unless you want to pay the extra money—or build it yourself It will be at least three to five years before they are readily availabl After this brief waiting period, while effi cient designs are refined and maseproduction begins to lower costs, solar-heated and -cooled buildings should become widely accepted. Farmers and manufacturers will also bene- fit from the sun's energy: “We feel that a major opportunity exists for industrial use.” says William R. Cherry of erna’s Solar Energy Division, “We can dry or dehydrate foods using solar energy, or heat water into steam for mineral processing or other indus~ trial applications. All these will have impact on future energy requirement Most estimates agree that in 25 years solar systems could save more barrels of oil than will be flowing through the Alaskan pipeline —or about a third of all our current imports ‘That amounts to several billion doltars a year in balance-of-payments savings. And, as one lawmaker recently noted, “Sunshine cannot be embargoed.” Salar Energy, the Ultimate Powerhouse * Solar-thermal electric power. Steam boilers used in generating electricity require temper- ‘atures of about 1,000°F. By comparison, a conventional flat-plate solar collector seldom wets above 200° F. Tw put sunshine to work producing electricity on a large scale, it is necessary to find new techniques. The technical solution to this problem is centuries old: Concentrate the sun's rays, just as my son did with his magnifying glass, Th ancient times the sacred Greek temple fires at Delphi were lighted by concave mir- rors, The Greek scientist Archimedes sup- posedly burned a Roman fleet at Syracuse with polished shields that concentrated the sun. In more modern times a steerable para- bolic concentrator, aimed at the sun, powered. a steam-driven printing press at the 1878 Paris Exposition. Scientists Refine Old Methods High-temperature solar-power plants of the future will require similar concentration tech- niques, such as plastie lenses imitating the eve of the horseshoe crab (an ideal concentrator of light), or special reflective coatings on. curved mirrors. At the laboratories of Honeywell, Inc., in Minneapolis, saw a heliostat that resembles silvered vent blincs. Mounted on z turn- table, it tilts and rotates to follow the sun, while focusing the reflected beam on a tall water tank about half a mile away. Honeywell has 1 plan in which 74,000 such heliostats, each 10 by 20 feet in would reflect their searing beams onto boiler at the top of a 1,500-foot-bigh concrete tower. The cluster of heliestats would cover more than 4 square mile, and could generate tempera- tures well above 1,000° F., sufficient to pro- duce power for 40,000 homes. © Raising crops for fuel. Imagine one of those ordinary tracts of pulp-mill forest—hut graw- ing cottonwood, poplar, or eucalyptus for energy instead of pine for paper. Place in the center a conventional steam-power plant, fed by & continuous conveyor belt of hardwood from the surrounding trees. Such “energy plantations” are considered by many to be a serious alternative to fossil-fuel power. InterTechnology Corporation’s Dr. Szeso believes that certain fast-growing. trees and grasses, called “wre bushes." could be bred for high-energy output and grown in energy 389plantations. BTU sti unit, a e of he Ano! contet mass” fuel is ke British therm: energy ler for such “bio- », which can be fermented to produce methane or aleohol. This nt sea- weed is the fastest growing plant known, sometin spurt wo feet in a single day Further in the future looms thi ibility af nerating tually using the mechanisms of photosynthesis, the process by which all plants live and grow. In Melvin Calvin's Laborato of Che Bi dynamis the University of Californ Berkeley, I wa: device that con how a crud ‘erts lig ntal nto minute exper * Energy from the oce Jacques d’Arsons . French physicist ul predicted as far back ax nuld use heat from the sea. It s volves using between. the sun-heated upper ocean layers and the colder, deeper water A typical ocean thermal-power plant (pe 388) would be anchored off F ly flowing Stream surface water, with a temperat about 80° F,, would vaporize a warkin: monia, al Heat from the constas such as owepressuire turbi ctricit ¢ ammonia would then be reconden: by cold ¥ +. The p nus, since ocean t r pumped ess W rom dept be ce differences are constant, whether the sun shines or not The electricity produced by the offshore slant could also be used ta break down sea- water into hydrogen and oxygen by the pro- cess called electrolysis: The hye could be stored in large container ships for trans- «| ashore to be used for fuel t This scheme seems like si Mellon Pre he probability of economic thermal power stati so high that they will make obsolete today’s advanced nuclear reactors before th development is completed, * Solar cells. The unusual photos by which lig synthesizing ce fiction, Yet ssor Clarem ener Itaic effect flow of elec s was discovered in can stimulate ricity in certain materi the past century. The effect re ly undeveloped scientific curios rained a y until 195 Glaring energy waste ulated Maryland house (top) sas red d white zones above) seen by a TV amera that records infrured rays, or heat ‘Color-coded seule at bottom indicates lawest peratures at left at right Warmth leak colar builder: National Bureau of Stan ng this house: is px hat the equivalent arrel: could be saved daily if all U. S homes were properly insulatedHigh roof vent allows escape solar c of warm air drawn upward by (diagram D) haute home gy a sun-heatad chamber called 2 and provides hot water, ) plenum, pulling cool air into house at ground level ing glass cover far livcting chamber escaping, Evergreons on northwest, north, and northeast eaporures iminimige winter winds Plenum’s heat coll face west and Flos for backup dhgride, yield oxygen, land humidiy living = spaces Fin wall protests greenhouse from a (- LS Wert winidow tides rofiectiy irror abdve door AES) glans in the outer pane.of 3 eee w Sa double-glazed unit. to minimizo, dawn to melt ice-on 25 summar haat. — stoop (diagrart Ci. ” Last-bearing these on ‘ southern exposure offer Low: level vents let cool shade in summer, andin air ftom shaded ground areas winter kit sunlight through = orcool right airenter the their bare bratiches Nae house in summer. for warmth. eee : x ™ YEnergy-saving ideas for heating and cooling a house The sun's rays penetrate into the porticoes in winter, but in summer the path nf the sun is right aver our heads... build the south side laftier to ket the winter stn, and the morth side lower, to keep out the cold winds. xrwries, gem cesruny ne JUILDING on this 2,400-year-old concept, an architectural firm based in Denver, Colorado —Crowther Solar Group—tailors each of the uniquely acclimatized structures it designs to the ay of the land and the cast of the sun (eft) ‘The firm’s founder, Richard 1. Crowther, says, “The mast sensible way to use solar enersy is by first incorporating, design features that would cun- serve energy from whatever saurce, and by using, the local climate and topography to reduce the dependence on mechanical energy. My bedrock philosophyis very simple: [hate to waste anything ” About a dozen homes of office buildings ure already eatnploted, uinder construction, or planned hy Solar Group in Colorara, Wyoming, Alaska, and New York. Before the last shingle falls into place, as many as 150 individual energy-sa factors are considered. Windows—notorious heat sieves—are: kept to a¥ininimum except on the south side, and recessed to a depth that allows the sun to enter in winter when its angle ix Jow, but blocks it in summer when it is at its zenith (B). In windowless areas special chambered skylights (A) admit maximum sunlight but prevent escape of air ‘Trees play important parts in the architectural staging. Deciduous varieties on the south side shade the house in summer when the sun climhs higher, When its path travels nearer the horizon in winter, sunlight penetrates the trees’ barren branches to warm the house, while evergreens on the home's north face help baile iey winds Another angle for winter sun: Mirrors mounted over the front door act 9s an automatic snow shovel, reflecting solar heat onte the stoop tir melt ice (C).On the roof, Solur-callecting chambers (D) use reflectors angled inside the top and bottom surfaces to provide the home's hot water; a pipe ar duct at the: rear of the compartment transfers the heat for storage in a water tank or rack bin- Other components fine-tuned by the sysiem in Glude various layers and tints of glass to black or trap heat, a greenhoitse to condition the home's air, and an ingenious summer cooling system— literally, air conditioning by mother nature. Diir- ing the day the sun heats chamber called a plenum on the roof. At night wall vents near the ground are opened to admit cool air. The heat re- tained by the plenum creates an upetraft insite it, drawing warm wir out of the house through the roof ventilator; cool air then replaces it “When the house is comfortable, you close it up to trap the cool air," says Crowther. ‘Phe construction price for the campuny’s home ns ranges from $19,00) to $150,000, includ ing the high initial cost of backup furnaces and, in most cases, air cnnditioners. “We can't do away with mechanical energy sources entirely in Den- vver's climate,” says Crowther. “The idea is to use them as little as possible, Even without solar eol- lectors, homes built to our designs can be heated and cooled for about 40 percent of what it would cost for conventional horne.”sean Lue eed ribbon pulled ees irre os ey erry Saat et ee ee aa) es Pea ee a pene tee i et cated when Bell Laboratories scientists succe he uctor useful curren first silicon semico colar entire new indust umpaign button nt of impurity, such as lows the es. Another » is diffused inte to conduct elec the oppositely charged ike the cell, gative charges and start harg 1 metallic ure drawn he top of the wafer, the netal film at the bottom an electric light, a motor, or er else is bein were Metal backing: Photons (ountight particles) phate ate postive and negative charaits The electric corvent peeved in drawn off siathe cintil grid Poritive layer it ple, light meters: in some camer ‘ot requiring batteries ‘or the m solar cell to measure Solar Cells Essential for Spucecraft tally solar-powered residence ine a remain ar-cell the array u sin earth shad teries, which were re- it returned to wh ed whe The his sunlit energ 1 kilowatt—t en 100-watt bull for earthbound now a kilowatt, still prohibitive except in rem places like oil rigs and isolated radio relay static hree-part Skylab presentation appeared in the October 1974 N National Geogr March [976But ny expr fict that sola costs will spiral downward to a competitive $500 a kilowatt or Jess in th And considering how fast cost of elec- tronic hand calculators (made from ilicon circuitry) has dropped in just years, such hopes do not seem unreaso next ten years At the headquarters of Spectrolab, Ine north of Los Angeles, I saw solar array undergoing tests. From a distance the mul faceted panel of solar cells, mounted at the end of a 2 ntic vat pole, looked like a gig sunflower waving on alk in the breeze Close up, 1 could hear the by a small electric motor that kept the !2-by-20-foot tay tilted toward the sun. Plastic lenses 0! top of each round cell concentrated the sun- light so that ench aw” the equivalent of ten suns. The array was capable of gener- ating one kilowatt of electricity coon become a bisg He has announced ns to bring electricity by th 1 of this decade to the 70,000 remote villages scattered throughout his land. Each haml will be Solar Energy, the Ultimate Powerhettse Breakthrough: The astronomical cost. of electri y produced by cells for phicles—up pace to $300 a watt—may he brought arth by “emwine™ the icon ribboris. At Muabil whore the tech down t cells in aboratori was piontered, a scientist ors a fiery furnace (eft) that i inte a strip emergin from = machine overhead. After processing (far left), cells cut from the ribbon yield current when timulated by the su of -by-four-inch eels could Panels te the urban payer plar the future, if made cheap enough Refinemen space-use ¢ ulready have cut 1 to us Iw as $20 Watt on earth. The ribbon process alms f nts a. wat 0 ees equipped with electric pumps for well water, medical refrigerators. eve nal-TV ils from a broadcast to put i I neous tion lies with solar-cell arrays lowatt prototype 1 saw—not etroleum. Thus may come a nological revolution. sets receiving lite Tran propos nS Anel rural electrifi uch as the ally, with ire true iio: New Process Promi 2s Cheaper Cells At the Mobil Tyco Solar Energy Corpora: tion near Boston, Dr. A-L Mlavsky show me one of the most promising experiments for luction of solar cells. So mass ar solar ¢ been made by hand in limi quantities. Tyco has developed a precision machine that pulls a thin si pina continuous ribbon (left, above). Already the process has produced ribbon more than 75 feet long; Dr. Mlavsky expects the automated machines will eventually wind out spools of solar-cell silicon several hundred feet lon; Within three years we should know if'it is possibleThe day may arrive when solar cells are delivered to a house like rolls of roofing paper, tacked on, and plugged into the wiring, make ing the home its own power station, ‘The imaginative brain of Arthur D, Little's energy expert, Peter Glaser, has conceived! ‘what he considers the ultimate solution to the world’s energy needs—a salar power stition orbiting: in space. Satellite Would Know No Night At his Cambridge, Massachusetts, office; Dr. Glaser showed me a design for such fu- turistic satellites. They look like gigantic but- terflies, with solar-panel wings 6 by 7, miles in size. A single one of these power stations in synchronous orbit 22,300 miles above earth might provide as much as §,000 megawatts, half the present capacity of New York City's generating plants. ‘The direct-current electricity produced by the satellite's cells would be converted at the space station: into microwaves and beamed, much as by a standard radar transmitter, to a ground-based receiving antenna some tive miles in diameter. There the microwave energy would be converted direetly into alternating current electricity and distributed for use. The great advantage of having the solar cells in orbit is that they remain in total sun- light 99 percent of the time; only pees. darken them. Consequently, they are far more efficient than carthbound systems Glaser estimates that the cost. of the energy delivered to transmission lines would be less than twice that of a nuclear power phint ‘Transportation costs for the station, lifted from earth in stages, would be very high. But a Princeton physics professor, Gerard K. O'Neill, thinks he bas figured « way around the price for getting the components into space. His idea is to have space colonists build the orbiting stations, using materials from the moon, y With O'Neill recently, sitting jons with aerospace scientists’ in Los Angeles. Referring frequently to a stack Curing a erop—and a fuel shortage: In North Carolina State U of intricate calculations that he has compiled over the past five years, O'Neill fended aff every criticism, while defending his advecacy of immediate spare colonization Using only present-day technology, O'Neill hos worked out the basic design of a perma~ ‘nent space station that could hald 10,000 res- idents, He estimates it can be built for about four times the cost of NASA's Project Apollo moon program—or about 10 to 20 percent of what conventional power-plant costs would be in the U.S. during the next 23 years ‘O'Neill is no wild-eyed dreamer. He is the respected inventor of the particle-storage ring upon which are based the latest atomic. particle accelerators. He told me that the space colonies would be able to construct $,000- megawatt satellite stations—and their ground receivers—tor less than ten billion dollars each, to produce electricity for slightly less than two cents a kilowatt-hour. Electric rates in New York City now cost the average consumer eight cents a kilowatt-hour. “The U.S. market for satellite power stations should be in the $0-to-100-billion- dollar-a-year range by the year 2000," pre- dicts O'Neill. “This may be one of the more powerful reasons for the early development of space colonies." (laser adds: “That means we could become a different civilization.” Time to Switch on the Sun This visionary concept has been well ex- pressed by physicist Freeman Dyson: total utilization of the sun to power an advanced civilization. ‘The only limits to the technological growth, of @ society are internal.” argues Dyson, a resicent of the Institute for Advanced Study in Princeton. “A society has always the option of limiting its growth, either by conscious decision or by stagnation or by disinterest, A society in which these internal limits are absent may continue its growth forever.” Farfetched? Perhaps not, if we learn to switch on more of the sunshine that warms us all, and make the sun a productive furnace for all mankind. o iversity*s “solar barn,’ fiberglass walls and bluck hest-absorbing framework trap sun-heated air todry tobacco, ‘The innovative structure converts to a greenhouse during the off-season. The system ean save a third af the propane needed tp cure tobacco in conventional drying barns Solar Energy, the Ultimate Powerhouse 397ATE ONE NIGHT we had a happening in Harmony Hollow, my home in the Vir- ginia mountains. Nature and se S teamed up with Norsé mythology. The local weatherman predicted ftost hy morning, and, in seeming confirmation, my friend the *hoaty” ow! began calling in his shrill voice as if to warn his neighbors of a change in the weather. Outside, the clear, cold, windless night held me tight in its silence, until I beard a snapping and crackling— O small sounds, yet distinct. Was it frost in the m: ‘ ing? Had I heard the sounds of Frasti, god of frost in Norse mythology, at work? ’ Sins of someone's work camt into view as a ike dawn’s first light flooded the landscape. Fence Cc posts, bushes, and grass were covered with a fragile icing that caught the sunlight and beckoned my $ camera ‘The Inced edge of an ivy leaf spoke of Cl oO Frosti’s gentle craftsmanship (right). Just a few feet away, like a white spider in a green web, frost crystals stretched across the veins of a holly le: deft), Why the lone formation? Perhaps because of varying air currents, differences in the texture of the leaf, or a lack of certain microscopic particles ‘on which frost builds Back inside the house and warmed by cups of T called my friend Lyle Denny at the National ther Service to ask him how frost form TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY ROBERT F. SISSON ck Puan te: “Bob,” he begun, “frost is a crystalline form of water, created when water in its gaseous state changes directly into a solid without going through the liquid stage.” He probably imagined my con- fused look. “Put more simply, air becomes saturat- ed with water vapor, and if the temperature #5 cold enough, the vapor callects and forms frost crystal We call it sublimation. It’s important,” Lyle reminded me, “to keep the difference between ‘frosting’ and ‘freezing’ in mind; some people blame frost for things it hus abso- lutely nothing to de with, The ‘frost’ that gardeners —black’ or ‘killing frost'—is not really frost at all but the moisture within a plant freezing. Under certain circumstances, the forming of real external ly insulate the plants and help frost can act prevent damage from freezing.” Dew differs from frost only: hecause the water spor is at too high a temperature to sublime; instead of changing from gas to solid, the vapor collects as tiny water droplets. One bonus af dew or—in colder climes—frost is that it becomes, in places af little rain and snowfall, a major source of water for plant and animal life 398ey eaeSicily, Where All the Songs Are Sad By HOWARD LA FAY Photographs by JONATHAN BLAIR Mock pathos enlivens Palermo's outdoor market as balladeer Rosa Balistreri sings of a pea donkey has died, lenving him no source of income. In poverty-stricken Sicily, even the comic songs spring fram sadness Status 4s an autonomous region, granted by Italy in 1946, Rave Sicilians more control of their affairs, but didn't cure the island's suffering econe aid is needed, Sicilians say. O FAIR AND VERDANT was this ancient land, according to a legend of the Greeks who colonized it, that the dogs of the hunters could not follow a scent by the fragrance of flowers. Its trees were turned into masts for the ships of Carthage; its grain fed the far-flung legions of Rome, But centuries of pillage and abuse have left Sicily a gaunt, eroded island, and its people—courteous, in- —have learned to bear a heritage rebellions, and dreams of emigration Perhaps because they have endured so much, they are a sturdy and acmirable folk, as though knowing in their hearts there is little more that history ean do. “We are old,” wrote the island’s great 20th ntury nove seppe di Lampedusa, very old. For more than 25 centurtes we've been bearing the weight of superb and heterogencous civilizations, all from outside, none made by ourselves, mone that we could call our own.” Phoenicians ruled here, as did Greeks, Car- and Romans, The Saracens seized y from the Byzantines, and the Normans conquered the Saracens, Then came Germ French, and Spaniards, When Garibaldi stormed ashore in bent on uniting Italy, most Sicilians saw him only another conqueror. A Sicilian friend told me: “Ours has alw been an oceupied country. And alway Nowhere will you find a peoplem il recently Sic ort of electricity, Som use of Sic exploited distrustful ly was always years ago the Italians across the Strait of Messina to ctricity from their grid. But every ian believed, in his heart, that the cable: sted to drain away the little power we had,” Today's Sicily, with its ab andoned farms, depopulated villages, ment, is consistent with its melancholy’ pi a place where, to p G.K. Chesterton's line about the Gaels, all the songs are sad. As long ago as the 12th century, ‘an observer deseribed Sicily asa land that “devours i inhabitants"—a judgment that many still ac cept. To learn of the island’s problems, I visited the Honorable Mario D’, | assi zor for labor and eooperatives—equivalent to a cabinet minister—in the Sicilian Government. Th or proved to be young, astute, and marked by that healthy skepticism common to most Sicilians. “ as anybody can remember,” he Iv has been under- developed. And the bitter truth we are learning and chronic unemploy- equisto, region 40°now throughout the world is that under- development causes underdevelapment. In short, where there is no capital, few skilled workérs, and even fewer managers, a nation cannot cure its own ills. | “Let me be blunt: Sicil cure is Sicily’s historic curse, a massive intervention by out- sidlers, In the recent past Italy has expended huge sums to industrialize the island. But ingly expensive oil refineries and electronics plants. Cathedrals in the desert! ‘They employ only a few thousand technicians. “Within the past twenty years, 600,000 Sicilians—people, we must assume, of initia- tive and drive—have left the island. We are experiencing a Biblical exodus.” ‘One Sicilian preparing to join the exodus was Signorina Giusy Brucculeri, a teacher in a private school. “I graduated from the University of Pa- lermo in 1972 with a degree in foreign lan- guages,” she told me. “For a year I knocked on doors—travel agencits, airline offices, tourist bureaus, anywhere that my languages how? By building a few automated, stageer~ might be valuable. But there was no job, and also because Iam a woman, no possibility ever of a job. Except, of course, as a very badly paid teacher “A. normal Sicilian girl might accept this. But I have ambition, and this makes me a foreigner in my own country. To better my- self, T must get out.” Farmer Loyal to His Land A few days later I visited a Sicilian who Giovanni Guzzardo, who, with his family, farms 7$ acres in the green tranquillity af the heights above Caccamo. As we strolled across his sloping fields, Signor Guzzardo—e strong man with a weathered, mabile face—told me: “The profit in farming is very little. It per- mits us to live, nothing more. But 1 was born here: I love this land. Besides, farming is « very proud profession. We feed the. world. Without us there could be no art, no industry. Ours is the one indispensible occupation.” As shadows lengthened across the young Wheat, we made our way to the farmhouse. “To have seen Italy without having seen Sicily is not to have seen Italy at all,” said the Getman writer Goethe. Lying in the ‘Mediterranean's narrows between Europe and. Attica, Sicily Stabs inevitably serveil as a stepping-stone for conquerors: Greeks, + ‘Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs, and Normans. All left eee notable relics, like the graceful temple at Segesta built, @ = ™ Islands by the mysterious Elymians (facing page), Erected pari pucee 24 centuries ago, it still stands above a lonely valley & af Messina Gullof Castellammare. Tyrrhenian Sea Palermo le Torre Cefala, de! Laure Tonian Sea gusta Siracusa(Syracuss]hing smell of cattle permeated the government votes mil- family tre ow. This i son is educated, 4. He will know he in, and we laces around an ¢ wife, Rosa, wa We alwa tthe olives. In Febru Greek Monuments Grace Sicily Sicily's matically im it juietly. “The rest of us have had no chance remains. Indeed n, but I want him itself in Hellen: In the eightt grantablished—Syracuse, Agrigento, Taormina, Gela—tivaled the ancient capiti The reate nificent to me in ruin as it was in life. In 415 Bc attacking Athenians, in a vaingiori n, arrived with a mighty fleet. But the Sicilian city-state crushed the Athenian ¢x- peditionary force. Stripped of defenders, Athens, the greatest city of antiquity, fell to the Spartans a few years later, tacked Syrac ly, a Hellen. 4 the ¢ and Sepesta Dus at The Athenians had the behest of a little-knowit -d people of not Elymians. They rul until the Athenian inva Jed. At Segesta 2 go, the Elymians left behind an unfinished temple that, in the words of one archeologist, rivals the “Par- thenon in the subtlety of its refinements,” The itary roofless temple stands on a spur that dominates ridges and valleys (preceding page). I visited Segesta on a day of early spring when a raw wind lashed the uplands and sul. len clouds roiled through the sky like the smoke af sacked cities. T stood alone in the great temple, amoni the mighty Daric ¢ umns, with the hollow boom of the wind cu: ing the eroded'stone. An eerie and mournful vestern Sicily calk fat Eri n years sound; nature's dirge, perhaps, for fallen gods I waited while the sun sank behind the pagan sanctuary. Dusk—like a rumor of seeped across the timeless t : The wind rose way down the hill, Behind me the temple eemed to glow with fitful gold, a trick of the ight and the clouds. Yet it engendered a sense acl. Twas en higher as 1 picked my of ancient mystery, of ancient ch not sorry to leave the old ude, to. memories M. Like every visitor to Sicily, L was curious about the Mafia. [ consulted a knowledge able journalist “The Mafia plays a key role,” he said, “but only in the west. In the east, for example in Messina, it-has never been a fac: tor, Long ago the Mafia served a purpose. It offered a ice outside Once Served Justice poor man a means of ju jaa Law.” Using Sicilian words, he ssid: "The present- all the old forms. The ners are expected to show theit seniors ‘rispietta, or respect. And there is rt, the conspiracy of silence that every y mafis? maint Ten-ton showstopper, float fashioned after on bewr: tue of St. Resselias, Palermo roness, past the city's cathe rated in 1185. An ann honors the reclusive ¢ val cost the ch legori hand come by St. Rosalia National Geographic, Murch hter of int, She has been revered 1976serve under questioning: A 1 is still carried out wit ir sawed-off shotgun, Anda di Brave Few Fight Corruption that moment ‘0 bettering the lot of t ch his headquar ‘0, U drove inland a combination of ¢ AN kept him alive. He has survived shots fro rs, even ahac humbled the forces of the I lic. But this king, like his native lane On July Iver fingers of the dawn inched across a courtyard in Castel: ano and found Turi crumpled in death. Shot by the M The police? The andowners? In the end, all had used Giuli distorting his the poor, In Sici tradition his:d n treacher steeped wn I came to its ser cemetery. An inser eck: Fume We wer rock come voi, sarete you, you will be as. we and Loe 2 mau id a wrought-iron 8 of whi red Heart. In mmeone had e he lies in a sarcoph arded by a statue of the liwark of the de arene on dreams. wht Glory to Pale tal of Sicily, is experienc ». While the popu has swelle it first came to great- the Mosiems ndred th‘ nce the houses of Saracen dignitaries sd Liste. Above see the quater of 1 Cassaro, from al-Qasr, the Redoubt, site of A frustrated driver \ n-end run along the sidew find the room. With little curt jeans at the Gi nat at the u Furrier. Afte you can solace y with a Crazy Whi poticeicalled th of the Ci gilant Ones fare. Day old),-and dine after day the no in flatbed Or, if you prefer, y sisting parked vehic ican wash s fitted with cran the whole thing with a cak way up the Still, the past contin prawling Vucciria, a Aral Lookin: for a way out, @ motorist-n @ the horn of Palermo’s narrow dow Morning wening—seeming! fu and. she|. Men with sharp knives and pod! chop pirpu ‘ugghiulu, boiled re ris. The island's octopus, into. manazeal astries and ices have no rivals, and the en- them onto moist plates. But the ample th a cup of espres vencllessly afforded by the Vuccitia is vastedda in a cafe try overwhelm a cake filled with ure refer ne of this confection somewhat am anfo di Gola, signor,” the clerk Fe , wri, i domestici! Su echin’ duci plied. Licking my fi I refiected how @un peri di porcul How savory, this kale! dev name Sweeter than the foot of a pig!” the T slivers of the spleen, liver, lungs, esophagus of veal fried in lard, sprinkled with salt, and a roll as T left the Vuctiria, It It struck me ard a tingly appropriate triumph of Gluttony Wearing fashionable bikin ole) mosaic from Ths unesrtl make the scene a arist industry. His y unexploited sea: 419She. would be 2 In Palermo and envir veral magnifi cent structures memorialize the den axe that the Normans brought: the Church af the Martorana, the Pal: Ch the majestic if Monreale nted si red with * the f some rela- ngs tL ren, November 2, the Da 1 much of t of the I at Chi : fay SHES Oi Normans Bring » Gol orno dei Mortt resents, given in the ni: the family In the early 11th cer rished ek their fortunes. Incessant the peninsula, and the Norm marauders, One Hi king brigand Guiscard, fought his way into the nobili Wi a hundred horsemen, he and hi pther, Re ruled Sicily about Thir fare followed before all the the Normans. Guiscardl r 1 policy of tol Charters guaranteed that nd Saracens shall be to their own la nt Norman Frer ial languages in Roger’s regime endowed Greek Orthodox te { appointed Roman Catholic bishops. His rmy was built ar Saracen bi anit Moslems continued to provi backbencee: a een:afe. =? a) by 4 A Rael a ‘CS na lt «NEIcompiled one of the great books of the Middle ‘Ages. A compendium of geographical knowl- edge, it pointed out that the world was round —thus anticipating Columbus by 300 years. Islamic scholars still know the work as Kitab Rujar, the “Book of Roget.” As did his successors on the Norman throne, Roger kept a harem, and eunuchs were no strangers to his retinue. Many of Roger's Christian subjects, reported one visitor to the island, “accused him of being .-in his heart of hearts, a Muslim” ‘The king died in 1154. His son succeeded him, and then his grandson, But neither in- herited Roger's sift for statecraft. Still, Nor- man Sicily survived the attacks and plots of jealous enemies, Even to the end, it stood as a brilliant prelude to the Renaissance. The passing of the 12th century, however, saw the end of the Hauteville dynasty, And with it, in the words of the premier historian of Nor- man Sicily, Lord Norwich, the end of “that sad, superb, half-forgotten Kingdom, whose glory shone ever more golden as the stn went down.” Precious Mosaic Survives Eight Centuries (On a Sunday morning I drove to Cefalit, 43 miles east of Palermo, to visit the most sublime of the Norman relics—the cathectral built by Roger IT beside the Tyrrhenian Sea. Architecturally it is a synthesis of austere Norman masonry and graceful Saracen arches. Inside, covering the ceiling of the great apse, gleams a 12th-century mosaic of Christ Pantocrator. The face of the Ruler of All is stern, yet compassionate; nowhere in. the nave can you escape the Saviour's griew- ing eyes. Tam not alone in regarding this mosiic, by an unknown artist and all but lost in an obscure Sicilian town, as the wreatest work of art the world has ever seen (page 431), ‘Between Cefali and Messina, Sicily’s north. coast offers dramatic vistas, Green towering mountains plunge into the sed—sometimes gently, sometimes precipitously—and lonely. beaches seallop the shore. Occasional re- sorts raise a brave sprinkling of cabanas and. umbrellas, but these roughly pebbled beaches attract few vacationists, Near ‘Torre del Laurd 1 walked along a strand that stretched for empty miles, The waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea sighed against the beach ke an uncertain lover. Every- where lay the haunting impedimenta com- mon to deserted seashores: driftwood caressect by patient currents into abstract sculptures, aestrake.and oarlock from some smashed boat, aesingle enigmatic shoe—plusagenerous sam- pling of the garbage with which Sicitians so. blithely strew their landscapes. ‘The Past Lives Under Sicilian Soil Among the pebbles I caught a glimpse of patina, T picked up a curious asymmetrical object, half stone and half corroded brass— three unfired .30-caliber rifle cartridges fused into a chunk of conglomerate rock. ‘Tn 1943 World War Il had stalked this coast as invading Anglo-American forces advanced. toward Messina_All the combatants—British, American, Italian, German—harl used am- munition of roughly this caliber. An expert could certainly determine the nationality of these embalmed bullets: But did it really mattet? Here, on this oft-conquered island, nature had fashioned a small monument to the futility of battles. As every archeologist. knows, Sicily is a time capsule, Sink a spare anywhere, and you will unearth the past. Does the fourth century AD. interest you? Three miles southwest of the mountain town of Piazza Armerina, you can visit it—a world still Roman, still pagan, still splendid. In 1950 archeologists began to unearth a magnificent, rambling villa—built perhaps by an emperor, perhaps by a fancier of wild animals—with a phe- nomenaily rich trove of Roman mosaics. The excavation continues and each year produces new discoveries: As you drift from ream to room in the vast, pleasance, you see—portrayed on the floors in vivid reds and blues and flesh tunes—the life of 1,600 years ago, Charioteers lash their teams around the Circus Maximus in Rome; Hanging out at the comer store, San Fratello's war veterans bask in the morning sun. In World War I, {talians fought on tho sicle of the Allies. During World War Ta massive assault by British and American troops in 1943 wrested Sicily from the Ger- mansand Italians after 38-davs of fighting that left many cities and towns devastated Sicily, Where All the Songs Are Sad 429 i IS eeHaven fora king: Fleeing a storm at sea, first Norman ic ct I, took shelter in this é than 800 years axe, tr Weful for his survival, he began land overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea Thus the hing village acquired its majestic twin-towered atheriral, A mosaic fn the apse domi- ates the cathedral’s interior (facing pager Under Reger IT, whase father had defeated the Saracens in Sicily in the Ith century, the Nor mans reached their sr r in the Medi- terranean—and cated civilization to thrive beside Norman and antine cultures. Art patron, authar af Sicily’s first written laws, and conqueror of parts of North Mrica, Koger Il created Europe's greatest Palermo, His intellectual curiosity spawned The Avocation of a Man Desivous of a Full Knowledge of the Different Countries of the Werld—known simply as the “Book of Roger.” This 12th attempt at gfobal knowledge, written by scholar, not only notes that the “earth is round,” but alse proclaims with equal assutince that some Norwegians are born without neck National Geographic, March 1976straining men Joad camels, elephants, tigers, and rhinos aboard a ship, its rigging portrayed in meticulous detail. A pagan priest, in vest- ments that prefigure those of Christian prel- ates, snerifices to Diana. A man leads two hounds whose collars and. leashes can be found at your local pet shop. Wornen in bi- kinis exercise with dumbbells: and a large ball (page 419). To look at these, our distant ancestors, with their expressions of placidity and. pain, smugness and astonishment, is to realize the profound truth of the French proverb, Plus ¢@ change, plus cest la méme chose—The more it changes, the more it is the same. ‘Not far from Piazza Armerina lies a small- ish steel-gray body of water called Lake Per- gusa. Here, according to legend, the virgin goddess Persephone was picking flowers when Hades, ruler of hell, emerged from the lake and savavely abducted her. The tale could serve, I thought, as an allegory for Sicily—a onee-fair country ray- ished by invaders. From Pergusa [ drove toward the east coast, through crumbling vil- lages, past forsaken farmsteads and parched, untended fields. The lind of Persephone. Etna’s Threats: Fissure and Fire ‘Virtually all eastern Sicily lives in the shad- ow of oe of the world’s mast famous volea- noes—Mount Etna (facing page). The graceful cone-shaped peak rises to a height of some 16,900 feet. The altitude of Etna, however, pales beside its great bulk; the base of the mountain cavers an atea of S00 square miles, and 60 tawns cling to its fertile, if sametimes heaving, slopes, The ancient world regarded Etna as the forge of Vulean. Pindar wrote of it in Be, and since his day chroniclers have described some 145 major eruptions—the last in 1971. To learn something of Etmn before ascend. ing it, Tealled upon Professor Salvatore Cu- cuzza Sires in his volcanologieal labora- nd largest, is both a-gift and a victim of Etna Eons ago, the volcano hegan to build an offshore island that wlti- mately joined Catania rests on a layer cake of lava on the seaward face of this rela- tively new land, and periodically—most re- cently in 1923—more lava boils down the mountain to menace the cit A corelial, witty man, Professor Silvestri tended to deprecate his favorite volcano, “Etna isn't really: deadly,” he said. “This vol- cano is af a type that will never explode cataclysmically, Rather, small shocks con- tinually rend the slopes, freeing gas and lave. Tn 1928 such a fissure destroyed the town of Maseali. Another similar split threatened Bronte in 1974, “But the chiefstigmata of Etna are the hun- dreds of little shrines you find on the slopes; each marks the spot where a saint stopped a flow of lava that threatened a village. Actu- ally, the lava from Etna's fissures rarely flows for more than one or two miles. But people have great trust in their saints.” Sno-Cat Lumbers to the Summit Reaching the summit of Etna combines a maximum of technology with a modicum of exertion. I followed a winding road up to Rifugio Sapienza, 6,230 feet high. From there, a funivia—an overhead cable car—swun me up to 8,200 feet. T came to Etna in April, a treacherous month of crumbling snow and sudden storms. So, for the final winding three-mile ascent, Frode ima tracked Sno-Cat piloted by Gaetano Mazzaglia, who lives on the mountain and works for the funivia. The prosaic vehicle, of American manufacture, becomes a poem in Talian—fl Gatto della Neve, the Cat of the Snow, Ascending Etnais an inverted journey frem Paradise to the Inferno. Vineyards and or- chards and bright, neat villages dot the lower reaches; above 4,000 feet stand clumps of chestnut trees, then forests of oaks and beech- es At 6,000 feet you enter a sterile moon- scape of reddish-black lava ‘streaked with aging snow. Then comes the white glare of the snowfield that covers the upper slopes. ‘The Cat of the Snow lurched through the Puffing 2 warning, Mount Etna spews steam and gas, constant reminders of her ability to belch “fountains of purest fire,” as the Greek poet Pindar described an eruption in 473 fe, Today tracked ar four-wheel-drive vehicles carry visitors over a rugged trail al- most to the main crater of Europe's loftitst volcano, 10,900 feet above the Innian Sea. 432 National Geographic, March 1976Empire, it commlights were on in his apartment. In the living room Signor Castrogiovanni’s sister poured drinks. Unaware that I understood Italian— although imperfectly—she said to her brother, “Attilio, please be discreet.” T When an amnesty freed all Sicilian polit- ical prisoners in 1946, Castrogiovanni had served. the better part of a year in jail and stood accused of 24 crimes, three of them imeriting the death penalty. All stemmed from a smnall, savage war scarcely remarked by the test of the world. Unlikely Alliance Battles for Freedom In 1943 he had. helped to found a move- ment for an independent Sicily. Professors, students, landowners, artists, peasants joined ‘it, But, with the end of World War U1, Italian forces attacked and devastated the various headquarters of the movement. Separatists took up arms, The bandit Giuliano joined them. Following a flag of red and gold, the unlikely assemblage fought for a free Sicily. ‘The Separatists pled their case—in vain— when the United Nations was formed in 1945; Giuliano tried—in vain—to persuade the U.S.A. to annex Sicily as its 49th state. In the end the little army of idealists dis- banded. Many had died. Many more, such as Attilio Castrogiovanni, had been convicted of “attempting to subvert state institutions.” But, while still in jail, he had been elected to the Italian Constituent Assembly—as an unreconstructed Separ: Some Sicilians would disagree with his view of history, fil- tered as it is through his tragic experience. In the apartment in Taormina the failing light glinted on. his eyeglasses as he spoke. “I can assure you that Sicily would be differ- ent and better if we had separated from Italy in 1946, For # brief moment the opportunity was there, but we missed it “ftaly had annexed Sicily in 1860, Eighty- three years of Italian rule had left our isiand depressed and disillusioned. So when we rose, most Sicitians supported our struggle; the British and Americans, who had captured the island in August 1943, regarded us sympa- thetically, For two years the movement ex- panded. Hope was everywhere.” Darkness deepened in the room, and his voice became faintly ironic, “In 1943 Italy 436 switched sides in the war. Italian regiments invaded the mountains to root us out The Communists fought us because an independ- ent Sicily would have ruined their grand de- sign for Ttaly. And the Mafia began to subvert us in every way. You see, mafiusi never cre- ate power; they join it wherever it appears. As soon as they saw that the Separatists were doomed, they allied themselves with the ‘opposition and did everything in their con- siderable power to smash us: “Despite that, we succeeded in forcing Italy to grant autonomy to Sicily. A statute—writ- ten by Sicilians —provided for virtually com- self-government. The great majority of Sicilians, including most Separatists, were satisfied with this new status. The movement: for independence rupiely melted away.” “Did autonomy bring any benefits to Sic- ily?" T asked. “None, Sicily was totally betraved. The principles of our statute have never been ful- ly applied, and the autonomy has been trans- formed into a mere farce. You must never far- gut,” he smiled bleakly, “that Italy is the motherland of Machiavelli.” We walked across the dim room to the door. “One cannot deceive oneself,” he said with his desolate smile. “The movement failed. Yet the Separatists planted a seed. Our statute— a constitutional law—is there. In ten years, or perhaps a hundred, it may bear fruit. This is the only optimism left to us” History Weighs Heavily on Sicily At the door we shook hands and T thanked him for his candor. Then T asked a final ques- tion: “Do you feel any bitterness?” Again the bleak smile and « small inclina- tion of the head. “Inyinita, T have infinite bit- terness,” The last light, like the embers of a dream, was dying outside the windows, ‘Too long ahistory ....too many conquerors. Now, exhausted by time and defeat, most Si- ccilimns have made their peace with the pres ent: They are Italian. Not, of course, Attilio Castrogiovanni brooding in the Taormina twilight; not the pilgrims who daily twine red and gold wild flowers on the mausoleum of Giuliano. But most of the rest. O Singer of Persephone! In the dim meadows desolate Dost thou remember Sicily? oONATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC society WAMHINE TON, 8.6 GILBERT HOVEY GROSVENOK Eat, HWEIVSE, Presiden, (Creat par FT Sgr Grmcuamie Sons chanced Wha, Ci ‘xcconlance with the fats a Oe Unted States 4 Kangol lee ‘cucatomal npaulsaton le imrtning sed daheing nL kate we {Promcom wear an expiration. Race 1890 the city has sappee | Efploracoce and teseurchfenjecte, ching smemeesaby tm mats Kare rate tough ts musth journal insted terns hac, ‘alten od Nts Natal Cegraghie WORL Ds ete fe 8 trough Te pea, cl. al teenie He ‘abi His arvood the worn Raps ad ands maton teres Xone vison Mt expen ta pa vedere Por mater toe encoun tention ae MELVINEM. WAYNE. preident Kombat fe BOYLE, Vive Preaentaat Necreary GILHEAT A GRONENOM. Vee Present TNUMAS ME MURR: “Vive Prssden and Anschte Secrotury HILLEARY FHOSKINSOS, Tresor OWES AL ANDERSON, WIL LTAAE T. WEL EONAMG 1GKANT. (VERNON SANDERS Avstelue Secretaries BOARD OF TRUSTEES SPLUILEF WELL GROSVENER {het in He Ror gd ators het THOMAS W, MeLREW. Adsiiny Chacrmas of te Wirt FRANK HORAN MELVIN M. PAYNE, Presocn President Eastern Alnes ‘Naika Gengrapie Ste WARREN FARL AUKGEE VAURANCE S: ROCKEFES Lew Cole Jusion the Lied Stary ‘Hea Rockall Weer Fm ROWERT DOYLE OMESCT C SEAMANS. 1K. ‘Yice Brees wl Seat Aaanbcatoy Energy Rewrch ational Grersupdse sacar ia Dewesyen ahem LLOVISEELLEOTT, Present. JUAN T. TRIPE, Hemmmney ‘George Wisingtin Univers ‘Chana othe Baw CRAWFORD HL GREENEWALY Pan Amencan host Airwrrs Diaz 1 dP FREDERICK G. VOSMUKGN de Removes & Comper bc Fir. etal cours GILMER M GkONVENOR JAMES HL WAKELIN JI, Former {ido National Geogeapins ‘Aust ecreaty f Commarce ARTHUR. HANSON, Gener) for Sconce ani Technolegy Cnansel, Nxbomal earbic Socety J fEN E, WHEL Loves ae CORTE IO HASKINS, Firmen ‘Admire, Natoma et toaitice Presiden, CxmngeeIneittom mt Spoce Adiaitralion ot Washengtee ALEXANDER WETMOKE CAHLISLE A HUMELSINE Reseach Maxis resident The Colopal Willamsbare Booths Fetitsion Fratton CONRAD L. WIRTH Farmer DON MJOHNSON hector Natal Park Sertce CURLISE, LeMAY, Hirmes Chit of Stat U8 Ni Forve WAL McC HEANEY AUAICITN, J Traces Emertat HIGNB GL PH MADDON AMIN, COMMITTEE FOR FESEARCH AND EXPLORATION SMELWING St PAYNE, Charan EDWIN W. SNIDEK, Secrtary ALEXANDER WETMONE, Charman Emestoe BARRY CRISHOM. GILBERT ML GROSMENR, MELUILLE BEE. GROSUINOR CARY fo MASKING. STERLING 1 HERDMIC RS Sonat Eemive, C. Depanvme ef Apscatire, THEUMAS MER NE. Berry F MEGCERS, Ketoach Asuacase. Amhrometogy, Srthanniay Ve NOWERY C. SCARIANS. JT DALE STEWART. Phyeal Aa Fae Arges, baetonan fnmiigin, Pacebeaten Gr VoRnc Ret AMES 1 Wan SONGE WATSCI. Curate of Bvt ih ‘onan tection, HUN . Gepye1 Soohiehl Sarees. CONMAD 1 u iH and PAU Generac Stat Astin Serta of the Nace, FLANK S. DECK JOSERH B HOES. ADMLANT TOETIN IR TEWis P LOWE RAY MOND T.McELIIGOTE, JK WAS PHIL HS EDWIN W SNIDIM, danhuant Pronaeer: ALT REG SO HAYME, Leonard 1. Gait, Eliieal Assistant to the Present, Poin ‘Seder. Ricand I Peas, AdslinNaieeAtilani Ls the Psident Saf A iting: Tay H. Gis Horor dR alin, ihm. Me {Ghee Aare Alin rubioive” Bath Corl, Ses ast at, Frederick ©. Ge, Fran M. Tetgges’ Disa ¢srembiy Retr Fc Woy, cece esa Services” Jenoane f Ciwacke Call W. Harton, He Medical” Thoma Hirimat 10. Mente Aetstioe Paul W Tyee. Uinbeesp Promeston and ‘tanta: Cares T. Monsiand (Manager), Thomat M- Ret Payvel a finest: Dovid H. feters(Masaper, Mar. Whetcce, Decuihy C- Oulu iAbsastss Prrwnaed James k Main. Olea 0. Pepper, Nebke Fie “TainesF. Kully (Masago Masi, Franks ‘Clive. Walheln 1’ Suaietumey ML Sorat Front: Rut 2 Weel. Towne Winder. Wim Ka Pre toe ition Cama elem Pecchayeng ipsiSlanager, Boner ‘Coney, haa eheile Uns. Trunsacions Rhee Fan ap CorrmeNt 6 1876 Suional Gesgranlic Society, 70h und AL Si. NAW. Wie Ingvar, D.C. 200% Afltighlaraurved. Reprnfuctn fe bye rats perth ‘he coatest witht mie ferme (probed Sedona ioe peso pd Si Washengon, 1 ud bono feng iBces. Caer dna ar ie fr Yecied hy WS. ao forge arademary Fegielntgs. F10 u year 93% w Copy NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINE MELVILLE BELL GROSVENOR Futon in-CAief wad Dowel Charman i Tina Brkdue nan Mie Pa Gay. Sale Ni CreenaradAbary ‘fanaa, Gehan Pern, Clete Pre Fl “Cher. Ps eepige HB, re crbine a ee i? i ie Hl t haga, Reb: Revs, Urals ‘A Vane eer © init me i iW i i f # ‘ecu Dvn: Jem ML Lavery hie) Aves Sonics Wrathor Resin Chet Pl Dovel Feeder: Won't Ose, Robert © “tie. star Gepe R- Melia Cadi Rober W, Herat Sow Yon Fenris nan rant Nex Vat Tomed Geedd orb, Noe Vox Praha i Steed Seba RW Nadeem Cape, Name rei,STOUFFER'S vs.PEAS, PEAS, PEAS. Ever have the feeling you've seen one Se t too many? y Any time you do, just think of Stouffer's. We have a dozen delicious ways to help you break out of ~~ peas, pees Pee on Tender tasty little sprouts Sepedi ina a smooll white sauce, and topped with Parmesan cheese. | And Stouffer's Green Bean Mushroom Casserole is a side dish that’s a delightful contrast of tastes and textures. Or have our Broccoli au Gratin. Tender broseel in a smooth cheese sauce made from aged Cheddar. Stouffer's Side Dishes. They're different. They're delicious. And you can have them anytime, for just pennies more than “peas, again’ mp g cADATSUN B-210. BUILT TO KEEP ITS FIGURE. (41 MPG highway, 29 city’) a 9) trained techni- = cians and a comput- erized parts network. We figure the longer ¥ your Datsun survives the longer you'll save. — y *EPA dynamometer estimate. piece unibody construction. . B-210 with manual transmis- So it will stay in one piece. sion. Actual MPG may be mare or ough match. — In the B-210, less,depending on the condition of power is supplied by a spunky 1400cc your car and how you drive. high cam engine. Which is matched with a durable 4-speed manual transmission. (Fully automatic 3- speed is available.) Tough choie models: Hatchbac Sed: All come with such high standards as fully reclining buckets, comfortable seating for 4, and power- assist front disc brakes. ough backing. Your Datsun is backed by nearly 4,000 factory- Tough all over. All Datsuns, like our B-210, are d get good car mileage as well as good gas mileage, For instance, the steel body Three B-210 plus 2 and 4-DoorPolynesian voyager recalls Hawaii's past formance of jempt te SB.5O cMEMDAn teas rere wewacneige outs iwelpe Ni CHECK " SUBSCRIPTION TO THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC ONE 1 WISH TO JOIN tie Nationa GEOORAPAS (GIFT MEMBERSHIP) | connate snd enclsPeo eee eR ee mileage of any car in EPA estimates for manual transmission models: 43 mpg high- DR eee een ne Rt eee ecstasy Ce UR mom at) Ce eee Nae Re Seer eee eects eee mem ere Pao a a ee ered Advanced Stratified Charge Engine. Cee Om aoe ce ee oa eer cago Pee ee ioe Bes oer) Le ee Ro mee nud Se eae ee en relay Ou Re amie y Pen ee Pei eeu CE Mela ta ty rede a eset met cc PEE ie esha ere te id independent braking systems with self- adjusting power-assisted front disc brakes. pice ener tna tse hty the interior of the Civic, too. We designed De ema ee eset DL eR ae Ce y Ca PCM Oe Cog ttc onPCR ee eRe Pmt ee ue Re ee cg Per ee ae ea tee tae Seen nee tent ord Pee ee etn Tare) erm eering can do for you. Test own a Honda Civic PEC etn get aa Pee eee as pin reterenr erst tel nat Gee Auetecte hee cheed backhoe Bei leale fpnte tae home ooe ey sted orca rt eee yn eneren see toate Te Se ee eee eas Sreen peice eeprterd apie mere perieerpeeeaenee es Mie MD ee eee Rees TRA Migs Faia] Std cere fetter Toy a a7 ET = cere a ey co rs ee Ey Fa etsy En Pe a rs [reece ET A rere ae = = Cae aT Es o Fer Fa co “ ey ry pki tHe HONDA CIvic Meee Pee ia Com“My insurance company? New England Life, of course. Why?” ‘The class of 1976: our mutual funds, variable annuities and investment counseling.& George Washington American Bicentennial Bell A Linrrep Epitton ed # One ina series of porcelain bells | to commemorate, in vivid color, important people and historic events in the birth of America. * Beautiful porcelain heirlooms A of our nation’s proud Bicenten- nial celebration. * The George Washington Bell will be issued ina limited edition only for orders postmarked by March 31, 1976. %® Each bell will be hallmarked and registered by the Danbury Mint. ® Priced at only $25.00, The achievements of “The Father of Que Country", George Washington, are legend The greatest of all paceioes, he guided a young and proud mation on a cotirse of freedom From his courageous winzer at Valley Forge, to his daring crossing of the Delaware, to his leadership as the first President, Washington truly was “Fiese in war, first in peace and first in the hearts of his countrymen Now, as the world celebrates 200 years of American freedom, we rededicate ourselves t0 this ideal by recalling the proud deeds of this great American patriot. To commemorate his everlasting contributions, che Danbury Mint will issue a limited edition Bicentennial Bell. Haight The front of this historic bell bears a full color portrait of George Washingran, The re- vverse depicts his famous home, Mount Vernon This beautiful porcelain heirloom will be available only briefly in a limited edition whieh closes forever on March 31, 1976. After that date, this Bicentennial Bell will be avail- ble only fram original owners willing ¢ par sith ic, and only ac their asking price, what- ever that might be. Experience suggests that few of these bells will ever reach the open market. Most will be kept as prized reminders of our Nation's Bi cencennial, and proudly passed on w furure generations of Americans Must be postmarked by March 31, 1976 Please enter my order for centennial Bell( rate of £25.00, j bell to cover ro Dawa Make check or money andes pa The DanbaThe trains are gone, now. But the little depot works on.The 1976 Thunderbird. Could it be the best lucury car buy in the world? Catone! apo i Ce ide eee on mee, hi eee een eS Pedal eee ele tetera ape tere to) a oR ea ole deo aramdan AN Em Maat ciT a ago) Peden a ed eM aaa dee Ae ig ee ere Bl THUNDERBIRD eR er )Amessage to former members of the Peanut Galle as they approach The Peanut Gall grandstand on The Howdy Doody Show where all the children sat t it was also meant to include who ront of the d by Butialo Bob 6 T. Blus buddies an 1emporaries of Howdy Doody, nd that's the way it would way it stayed, You grew upand got married. And Howdy Doody, who would always be a child, is now thirty-three years old al years will pass, was the little Nes ideal é don’t just insure your life. We help insuire your future. 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THE PRINCE OF THE NETHERLANDS, PRESIDENTRichly engraved First Day Covers bearing the world’s most important new wildlife stamps, each postmarked with the first day cancellation in the country of origin. Issued in strictly limited edit Charter Subscription rolls close: March 31. Original issue price: $2.75 per cover. IN MAY GF 1976, collectors in various parts of the world will receive the first issues in a most fmmportant new collection of international First Day Covers. ‘This will be thé first collection of Firat Day: Covers over authorized by. the internationally respected World Wildlife Fund of Morges, Switzerland-and the first collection of First Day Covers ever devoted exclusively to official wilds life stamps from nations around the world. ter Subscribers to this collection will be all the world eligible to tion of World Wildlife First Day Covers—from the-very beginning To become a member of this select group, however, you must enter your Charter Sub- seriptian on of befare March 31, 1976. An official commemorative collection As a subscriber to this historie collection, will receive cvrry outstunding new wildlife stamp, issued anywhere in the world, that is officially selected by the World Wildlife Fund Each of these important new wildlife stamps will be sent to you as part of an individual First Day Caver. And every caver will be a Iinited edition collector's item-corobining an original work of art with the new wildlife stamp and the first day cancellation, applied at the designated post office of first issue, in the issuing country. As astute collectars well know, this eancella- tion is extremely desirable, since it will per- manently and officially certity the special First Day of Issue status of both stamp and cover. Beautiful creatures of the wild Historically, wildlife stamps have been treasured by callectors for their beauty and strength of design, ax w the spectacular subjects the portray. And this collection will present an ex- ceptional array of these important and colorful stumps~from the far comers of the world idition, each cover will bear an original ving that prevents a unique, urtistie por- trayal of the wildlife subject depicted on the stump. These engravings will ho designed ex- clusively for this series by noted! wildlife artists ‘of many nations. Thetr subjécts will range from the great jungle animals to the world's most exotic birds and the strange and beautiful deni- zens of the deep-the beanty of natare in all its myriad forms, Each cover will alo be: accompanied by an authoritative cammentary about the wildlife depicted on the stump and on the engraved cover, Ax a result, each cover will be a faseinat- ing educational experience, as well as a signifi- cant collectible. And. every cover will bo fully personalized with the name and address of the Charter Sub- scriber, if so desired. A strictly limited edition The International Collection of World Wildlife First Day Covers will be issued in strictly limited: edition, exclusively for advance subscribers There isan absolute limit of one subscription per person, Back issues will not be available. Thus, while the subscription rulls may be opened agin in the future, Charter Subscribers will be the only ones eligible to receive every issue: Furthermore, each Charter Subscription wil be accompanied by a statement af dedication bearing the signature of the President of the World Wildlife Fund, H.R.H, Prince Bernhard, The Prince of the Netherlands. No advance payment necessary Charter Subscribers will receive their First Day Covers at the rate of three per manth far the three-year subscription period beginning in May 1976. Those who enroll ax Charter Sub- seribers in the United States will be guaranteed the original issue price of $2.75 per cover throughout the full subscription period—a most unusual and significant price guarantee. Further. more, the subscriber may cancel at any time upon 30 days’ notice. However, once a Charter Subscription is canceled, the exchisive opparte nity to build the complote collection of these im» portant international eqvers will be lost forever, World-wide deadline for Charter Subscriptions is March 31, 1976 ‘This is the only time that a Charter Subscription for The International Collection af Warld Wild- life First Day Covers can be accepted. Only those applications postmarked by March 31, 1976, will be eligible for acceptance, The Franklin Philatelic Society, international stamp division of The Franklin Mint, will service all subscriptions, Your application should, there- fore, be mailed directly to The Franklin Phila telic Society, Franklin Center, Pennsylvania 19091, no later than March 31, 1976. A deluse album, tm protect and display the collection, vill be provided to tach Subscriber scithout additional charke. Charter Subscription Application Limit: One subscription per person. Subscription deadline: March 31, 1976. ‘The Franklin Philatelic Society: Franklin Center, Pennsylvania 19081 Please enroll me as ¢ Charter Subscriber for the Inter- national Collection of World Wildlife First Day Covers. understand that 1 will receive 3.covers per manth for 38 months, beginning in May 1976, and that the price of $2.75" per cover ($8.25° per month) will be june sntoed to me for the entire three-year period. A col- lectar's album to hold all the cavers will be sent to-me. at no additional charge, und T may cancel my subscrip- ‘tion at any time upon 30 days’ notice. Tnced send no money new. 1 will be billed for my ‘coversas they are ianted. Mr. Mrs Miss “flue my state wales tae City State, Zip ‘Signature. “All orders are aubieet fo acceptance Your covess will be peraanilized exactly ax indicated above, IF vou wish a different ation, pint the name and aiddresa you wish sn letters on|a separate picor of paper and enolose it with this fore. 1 Gheck here if you sis no personalisation at all. RATIONAL GEOGRAMHICAstitement from. HLB.H. The Prince of the Netherlands President, World Wildlife Fund tis a pleasure forme to recommend to you the ‘tion of World Wildlife first day covers described in this announcement The collection is the first of its type to be authorized by the World Wildlife Fund, and is both fascinating and educational, But this is not all. It also serves as.a constant reminder of the need for man to live in harmony with nature. The spectacular creatures portrayed on the covers are a part of the living work around need our protection and conserva! This is what the World Wildlife Fund works for, and it isa task which concems us all Lam sure that you will obtain great satisfaction from this collection, and Look forward to it with warm anticipation myself HARA Prince Berubid ‘The Prince of the Netherlands ideal school wagon. Its the Dodge Sportsman Wagon. _America’s Number One.I aan Sophisticated 25" fcoanpeopeteeey inched poten ae operates oye Lt Liane te] E Pari CHROMACOLORT Le SGV NCESToe aOR Turis ce a of good ground roast coffees \ ene To lock-in and preserve all that fresh-perked flavor. When you removed the ice you'di haves Be 100% freeze- lias) coffee that looks and Tales Pier like ground roast. And tastes fresh- sees rere SIA a CaS ne 18 5 Dia * AY “Ae SA a * a You'd have Taster's Choice” = a ie . 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