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TOM FORD, LOWER GROUND FLOOR.
 WOMENSWEAR FIRST FLOOR
MENSWEAR LOWER GROUND FLOOR
 MAGAZINE

HARRODS STORE IMAGE

Image Director MARK BRIGGS
Advertising Sales Director GUY CHESTON
Group Director of Corporate Affairs KATHARINE WITTY
Director of Customer Relationship Management CHIARA VARESE

Advertising
Head of Advertising Sales & Publishing CHARLOTTE MARKS
Advertising Promotions and Marketing Manager ROANNE RANDELL
Advertising Sales Executive, Fashion LUCINDA ANDREWS
Advertising Sales Executive, Home HON BAN LEE
Marketing Promotions Manager ELLEN PAGLIARULO
Advertising Enquiries +44 (0)20 7225 5783/5996/5706

Trade Marketing
Head of Trade Marketing, Fashion ANISHA PATEL
Head of Trade Marketing, Fashion Accessories VALENTINA TROTTA
Head of Trade Marketing, Beauty DIANNA TIEU
Head of Trade Marketing, Food ROMOLA BASU
Head of Trade Marketing, Home CHRIS SWEET
Trade Marketing Managers, Fashion JENNY HARRIS, JAMES WALL
Trade Marketing Manager, Fashion Accessories MOLLY GROOM
Trade Marketing Manager, Food HEATHER SPENCE
Trade Marketing Manager, Food Halls & Restaurants LISA TRUDEAU
Trade Marketing Manager, Home ASHLEY WATTON
Trade Marketing Manager, Toys ADELE BROUSSE
Trade Marketing Manager, Sound & Vision CLARE COOPER
Trade Marketing Executives, Accessories SOPHIE MIDDLETON, NEVINE SEIF EL-NASR
Trade Marketing Executive, Beauty NATALIE KASSNER
Trade Marketing Executive, Fashion ROXY FIRST

HARRODS MAGAZINE
Editor-in-Chief DEBORAH BEE
Art Director BARNEY PICKARD
Managing Editor FLEUR FRUZZA
Fashion Editor SARAH WEBB
Chief Sub-Editors LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON
Photo Editor LISA BONNICI
Art Editor SONJA BURRI
Junior Designer NATALIE MOSQUERA
Editorial Assistant LAURA JORDAN
Fashion Assistant POPPY ROCK
Picture Researcher EMILY SELLERS
Menswear Fashion Editor MITCHELL BELK
Publisher BETH HODDER
Publishing Coordinator SUZY CHAPMAN
Publishing Assistant ALETHEA QUARTEY
Production Manager HAYLEY ELLIS
Travel Contributor ELLEN SPANN

Production
Print Management HH ASSOCIATES
Reproduction ZEBRA
Print Production ST IVES WEB
Digital artwork by Jo Wills at Salon Services Ltd

Harrods, 87—135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London SW1X 7XL

t: +44 (0)20 7730 1234 f: +44 (0)20 7225 6633
www.harrods.com

All information and prices are correct at time of going to press

We hope you enjoy reading the Harrods Magazine. As we are committed to
providing the highest level of customer service possible, we would love to
hear any comments that you may have. Please email magazine@harrods.com
&ZF
0O
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SEPTEM B ER TO LEARN M O RE ABO U T T HE S T O RY O F ARAM I S.
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 EDITOR’S LETTER

A woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future... said Coco Chanel.
To celebrate our big September theme – Haute Harrods – and, of course, out of utter respect for the queen
of couture, our key autumn event is the Perfume Diaries. From 28th August to 2nd October, the Georgian
Restaurant is hosting an exhibition of fragrances from the last century. Curated by our very own haute
perfumer, Roja Dove, the displays include fragrance hits from every decade of the last century, including
’70s classics like Revlon’s Charlie and Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche, as well as the heady perfumes of
the ’80s like Dior’s Poison and Giorgio Beverly Hills.
This month’s Harrods Magazine reflects the Haute Harrods theme with La Belle Époque (p60), a selection
of heavenly dresses heralding a new golden age of eveningwear. Our special fragrance section opens with
The Definitive Guide to Choosing a Fragrance by Jan Masters (p81). Meanwhile, Les Fleurs du Mal (p98)
examines the allure of dangerous scents, and Scents of Style (p104) features the fragrances that best
define their fashion houses.
Elsewhere in this issue, Christopher Kane reveals his unusual fashion inspirations (p46), while actress
Jennifer Lawrence explains how good looks can sometimes work against you (p32). And a new relaxed
attitude arrives with a shearling and denim mix in menswear (p72). Even the interiors floors are in a couture
frame of mind, with an exhibition of fashion made exclusively from Frette bed linens, and some one-off
collaborations with homewares brands.

Take a trip to Haute Harrods… for a lasting fashion moment

Illustration Natalie Mosquera

harrods.com
 CONTENTS

    

NEW FOR SEPTEMBER

 IN-STORE EVENTS New launches and special offers for the coming month  HIGH FIVE Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director at Harrods, reveals
 ZEITGEIST People and places in the air right now her top new beauty treats
 HELLO, DOLLY No one knows better the double-edged sword that is feminine  SCENTS OF STYLE First comes the fashion, then comes the fragrance –
beauty than Jennifer Lawrence. In her portrayal of Ree Dolly in Winter’s Bone, an elegant distillation of the heart and soul of every good fashion house
she shows why she’s much more than just a pretty face  FROZEN ASSETS The definition of a truly classic fragrance is one that
 captures the zeitgeist of its time, changes the direction of perfume, and

FASHION  remains in the olfactory canon thereafter

 PORTRAIT OF A LADY If manners maketh man, then this season’s accessories
maketh the most glamorous autumn look
 WOMENSWEAR NEWS In Way In this month; Harrods Launches’ latest recruits;
four new collections for International Designers; RM by Roland Mouret exclusive

 dress; Ippolita’s Rock Candy bangles and cuffs
 CHERRY POP The new-season colour palette has a delicious burst of lip-smacking
red. Free your inner scarlet woman
 FINE & DANDY This season’s requisite smart jacket comes with all manner of
gentlemanly accessories, including cuff links, cravats and neat bow ties
 MENSWEAR NEWS Turnbull & Asser’s 125th anniversary shirts; Vince’s AW10
collection; Franck Muller watch; Crombie classics; Slendertone male grooming
 SAINT CHRISTOPHER Today’s bright hope for British fashion has put London
back on the international show schedule. His name is Christopher Kane
 HOW TO WEAR LEOPARD PRINT You don’t have to be a siren to pull off this
look but, with a little attitude, you’ll feel like one
 collection; Georg Jensen silver; Joseph Joseph’s one-of-a-kind chopping board
 WATCHES & FINE JEWELLERY NEWS Carrera y Carrera’s Palacios del Sur
collection; Dior cocktail watches; Bulgari’s Serpenti watch; Boodles’ Raindance cuff
 FAMILY GUY Ermenegildo Zegna has magicked his grandfather’s tailoring
business into an internationally acclaimed suiting brand
 
 ONLINE NEWS Harrods.com features a showcase of up-and-coming designers
 as well as Harrods Magazine features and exclusive offers available only online
 LA BELLE ÉPOQUE A golden age in fashion brings a new exclusivity to
 eveningwear as limited-edition gowns feature all the exotic details and elegant
fabrics usually reserved for haute couture
 EASY RIDER There’s a new mood in town for dressing down, in laid-back layers
of luxurious shearling, leather and denim
FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE
 BIG CHEESE Creamy, peppery, crumbly, and a year in the making – it’s time to
rediscover what real cheese is all about
 FOOD NEWS Valentine Warner dishes exclusively for Harrods; Somerset
Cheese Company’s top three; Blackwells Farm Produce; sweet sensations
 BUON APPETITO From the banks of Venice’s Grand Canal to Knightsbridge,
now lucky Londoners can sample a little dolce vita
 FEELING BLUE Amethyst, sapphire and turquoise – this season’s coloured
crystal undergoes a magical, jewel-inspired transformation
 ART FOR ART’S SAKE Beautiful, bespoke, rare; Haute Harrods is here with
 a series of specially created, limited-edition designs that blur the boundaries
 between furniture and fashion, and combine the creative vision of some of
the world’s finest interiors and fashion designers
 INTERIORS NEWS Baccarat’s denim chandelier; Wedgwood Nature’s Canvas

 HOT IN THE CITY From Tokyo to London, an ever-changing skyline of the
 latest bars, boutiques, bedrooms and eateries is enough to raise the
temperature of the most discerning traveller

LIFESTYLE NEWS Miniature Ferrari replicas; Venice culture; on safari in
Africa; L’Or de Jean Martell cognac; Harrods Concierge day packages
 PRIZE DRAW Win a five-night stay with full board at Hotel de Larache in
Atacama, Chile, courtesy of explora and The Mantis Group

 HARRODS ESTATES Specialising in prime residential properties in Central
London and the Home Counties
 ULTIMATE Everybody’s talking about Guerlain’s honeybee-inspired fragrance,
all dressed up in a limited-edition Baccarat bottle


BEAUTY & FRAGRANCE SPECIAL
 THE DEFINITIVE GUIDE TO CHOOSING A FRAGRANCE Selecting a scent is not
ON THE COVER
Photographer DAN SMITH
an exact science, but with a little help, a perfect perfume is just a page or two away
Fashion Editor SARAH WEBB
 SCENTS OF THE CENTURY A worldwide authority on fragrance and its history, Hair KEIICHIRO HIRANO at DWM
haute perfumer Roja Dove selects the olfactory milestones that have shaped Make-up EMMA OSBORNE at
 modern perfumery nakedartists.com using
 BEAUTY NEWS Nicola Roberts’ Dainty Doll line; life-savers for eyes; La Prairie’s Dermalogica
White Caviar range; Occo from Croatia; Miss Maquillage on autumn’s berry brights Fashion Assistants POPPY ROCK
 and ALEXANDER GRAY
 ON THE SCENT Where do you start when you create a new fragrance? The Photographer’s Assistants ANDY
 perfumers behind some of the world’s greatest scents describe the journey MAYFIELD and GABBY LAURENT
behind their passionate creations Model ALEK at Select Models
 LES FLEURS DU MAL Dangerous, hypnotic, addictive: some flowers that inspire wearing Louis Vuitton dress
 fragrance are anything but sweet £24,900 and Lanvin ring £250

harrods.com
no limits
in cool comfort

no comfort should be without style.

no limits in BoConcept.
Find a wide range of stylish comfort that can be customised to your needs and tastes.
Come and celebrate the Launch of our new 2011 collection.
Pick up your free catalogue and complimentary gift for the first 200 customers.
 Compl
im
serviceentary Desig
toda n
in storey book

Mezzo sofa from £5990 Coffee table £749 Lamp £249 Cushions from £39 Imola chair from £1595

BoConcept Furniture, Third Floor

LOWER GROUND FLOOR: SOUVENIRS • MENSWEAR • WINE SHOP • STATIONERY • SERVICES GROUND FLOOR: BEAUTY • ACCESSORIES • MENSWEAR & SHOES
FOOD HALLS FIRST FLOOR: WOMENSWEAR & SHOES • PERSONAL SHOPPING SECOND FLOOR: HOMEWARES • GIFTS • TRAVEL GOODS

TEMPLE SPA SKIN TRUFFLE

HELLO KITTY LOVES HARRODS
Calling all miniature fashion addicts – there’s a pal
for you in shopping heaven in the form of the new
Hello Kitty Loves Harrods collection. Kitty has her
handbag at the ready.
From £4.95. Harrods Shop, Lower Ground Floor;
Harrods Arcade, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
The combination of Champagne, truffles, gold and
diamonds is enough to make any woman smile, which
is why Temple Spa has channelled the benefits of
this magical mix into a skincare formula. Skin Truffle
gives skin a burst of radiance in a happy instant.
50ml, £75, exclusive to Harrods. Beauty
Apothecary, Ground Floor

HARRODS

IN-STORE EVENTS
Launches, special offers and events in September

BALMAIN MDG SUNGLASSES LAURA MERCIER

Christophe Decarnin fans will find a wider collection
of rock-chic jackets, jeans and scandalously short
cocktail dresses at the new in-store Balmain boutique.
Dress £13,800. International Designers,
First Floor
Take one style icon – Madonna – mix her up with two
international fashion gurus by the name of D&G, and
out pops an exclusive sunglasses collection that’s
equal parts retro-chic and sexy.
From £208. Sunglasses, Ground Floor
Make-up junkies on the move will adore Laura
Mercier’s new colour palette featuring this season’s
shades for lips, lids and cheeks in a cute clutch.
£75, exclusive to Harrods. Cosmetics,
Ground Floor; and harrods.com

CLARISONIC
Because men love new
technology, the latest advance
in male grooming – the
Clarisonic Sonic Skin Cleansing
System in charcoal grey – hits
the spot. It takes just 60
seconds to fully cleanse and
THE PERFUME DIARIES massage the face and can
VISCONTI Harrods is proud to announce the first significant even be used in the shower.
With a case made of basaltic lava and a 23ct 950 perfume exhibition of recent times, The Perfume £150, exclusive to
palladium nib with Dreamtouch technology, the new Diaries. Curated by world-renowned authority Roja Harrods. Beauty
Visconti Homo Sapiens fountain pen is for writers Dove, the exhibition chronicles the story of perfume Apothecary,
who are serious about their penmanship. from ancient times to the modern day. Ground Floor; and
£349. The Writing Room, Lower Ground Floor From 28th August to 2nd October, Fourth Floor harrods.com

harrods.com
 THIRD FLOOR: FURNITURE • HOME ENTERTAINMENT • BOOKS • MUSIC • PHOTOGRAPHIC FOURTH FLOOR: CHILDREN’S FASHION & ACCESSORIES
CELINE BAG
There’s no such thing as an
‘It’ bag these days.
Instead there
are bags that
you simply
shouldn’t be
CLARINS GIFT without. This
Indulge in some expert skincare advice from Clarins DL & CO is one of them.
and bag your choice of four travel-sized versions of A crisp, sparkling apple-shaped flacon, filled with a In this colour.
their best-loved products when you purchase two or crisp, sparkling apple scent – especially for teachers’ No brainer.

TOYS • WAY IN FIFTH FLOOR: SPORTSWEAR & EQUIPMENT • HAIR & BEAUTY • SKIWEAR • HARRODS SERVICES LOUNGE
more recommended products, one to be skincare. pets and temptresses. ‘Medium Shopper’
From 29th August to 11th September in £379. Cards, Gifts & Wrapping, Lower Ground £1,500. Egyptian
Cosmetics, Ground Floor. Exclusive to Harrods Floor; and harrods.com Hall, Ground Floor

GC WATCHES
Watch time fly with the
new GC-1 Automatic 7750
timepiece series, whose
exhibition case back
reveals such details
of movement as Côtes
de Genève engraving
on the oscillating ARGENTINE WINE
weight and 25 jewels. Sample the wild and wonderful wines of Argentina
TIMBERLAND Limited to 250 pieces at a special wine-tasting event and receive an
Die-hard fans of the original sandy-coloured worldwide. additional 10% off wines on the night.
Timberland can channel their inner Picasso with a £2,495. Designer 14th September from 7pm to 9pm in Wine Shop,
personalised pair at the Design Your Own service. Watches, Ground Floor; and Lower Ground Floor. Tickets £25. To book, call
From £110. Sport, Fifth Floor harrods.com 020 7893 8777 or email wineshop@harrods.com

JADE JAGGER
MONCLER FOR GUERLAIN
Moncler is going On its launch in 1925,
off-piste into an Shalimar was bold,
archive of classic shocking, and an
shapes with its instant bestseller.
Grenoble collection Still as popular
for women – and it GO SMILE today, it has been
has all the telltale Getting a Hollywood smile has never been so updated with a bottle
goosedown snuggle easy – or tasted so good. Go Smile’s miniature designed by Jade Jagger.
factor you’d expect. Touch Up ampoules polish and whiten teeth on Eau de parfum 50ml, £57,
Coat £959. the go and come in three yummy flavours. exclusive to Harrods.
Luxury Collections, £27, exclusive to Harrods. Beauty Apothecary, Perfumery, Ground Floor; and
First Floor Ground Floor; and harrods.com harrods.com

LONGINES JUNIOR COUTURE

Inspired by a museum watch The party dress of your PRONOVIAS
from 1954, the Longines (daughter’s) dreams or the Wedding gowns don’t
Heritage 1954 houses an perfect boys’ made-to- come any more fairy-tale
automatic day-date measure suit are available than from Pronovias’ new
movement. The case courtesy of David Charles haute couture collection,
back is engraved with and Turnbull & Asser. finished in feathers and
a fish, a pictogram David Charles dress antique silver paillettes or
Longines used in the £169. Childrenswear, adorned with more than
1950s to represent Fourth Floor. To book an 3,000 organza flowers.
Illustration Natalie Mosquera

water resistance and appointment with David Exclusive to Harrods.

one that can be found Charles on 11th or 12th Pronovias Boutique,
in all of Longines’ September, or Turnbull & First Floor. First Elie
original documents. Asser on 4th, 11th, 18th or Saab worldwide SS11
£1,190. Fine Jewellery & 25th September, please call Private Viewing 9th
Watch Room, Ground Floor 020 7730 1234, ext. 3683 to 11th September

harrods.com
 ZEITGEIST
People & places in the air this month By LAURA JORDAN & BEN FELSENBURG
DESIGNER: Erdem
“Accidental, elegant, colourful” is how Erdem Moralioglu describes
his work, and when it comes to romantic, delicate and utterly
feminine dresses with a modern twist, nobody does it better. The
subversive prettiness of Moralioglu’s signature aesthetic – think
vintage lace paired with heavy fabrics, intricate embroidery and
graphic floral prints – has glided elegantly and effortlessly into the
fashion consciousness, seeing Erdem beat a host of talent to win
the debut British Fashion Council/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund
this year. It’s also won him a fashion-forward following, including
Chloë Sevigny and Sienna Miller. What attracts these style mavens
Rankin
to the Erdem look are the unexpected details. “It’s all about
contrast,” says Moralioglu, “mixing the right with the wrong, the
dark with the light, the boy with the girl – the opposites.” His latest
collection for AW10 is a glorious array of colour, pattern and
texture, and has a feeling of relaxed luxury that works as well
styled down with a biker jacket and chunky heels as it does as
scene-stealing partywear. And new for this season, he has teamed
up with denim label J Brand to create his first limited-edition
jeans. The Erdem jean has an abstract floral print diffused into
dark denim for a nonchalantly elegant effect. An unexpected but
perfect collaboration, it’s a masterclass in modern romanticism.
Erdem has designed 10 pieces exclusively for Harrods, from £359;
available from International Designer Room, First Floor; Erdem
for J Brand from Way In, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com

ZEITGEIST

BOOK: Willie’s Chocolate Bible

by Willie Harcourt-Cooze
However convenient you may have found it to buy prepared desserts in the past,
William Harcourt-Cooze’s Chocolate Bible might turn you around. So dedicated is
he that he has not only launched nine varieties of his trademark 100% Venezuelan
Black cooking cacao and five flavours of sweeter bars, but also planted thousands
of cacao trees in Venezuela to create a ‘bean-to-bar’ business. The book features
150 recipes for such sinful treats as chocolate panna cotta, dark chocolate tart and
even ice cream. It’s stirring stuff (particularly over a low heat with a wooden spoon).
£25. Available from Waterstone’s, Third Floor, from 30th September

BOOK : The Elephant to

OPERA: Così Fan Tutte Hollywood by Michael Caine
Even up against some stiff competition from other comic operas, Così Fan Michael Caine’s first autobiography,
Tutte is a standout for having the most tissue-paper-thin plot of all: for a What’s It All About?, was compared by
wager, two young men don disguises to test out the fidelity of each other’s critics to David Niven’s The Moon’s a
fiancées. But, if anything, the story’s very dispensability only adds to the Balloon; there can be no higher praise.
unbridled joy of Mozart’s music. Since it premiered in 1995, Jonathan Miller’s Nearly 20 years on, Maurice Micklewhite
modern-dress production has reinvigorated the work in several revivals. – as he was called when growing up in
Now it makes a very welcome return to Covent Garden, complete with London’s East End – puts pen to paper once more. With
up-to-date technology (the marriage contracts are printed from a laptop). tales of his co-stars – from Laurence Olivier and Sean
What makes this ticket a particular must is the presence of the great English Connery to Woody Allen – and the making of such
baritone Sir Thomas Allen in the part of Don Alfonso, the world-weary classics as Zulu, Get Carter and The Man Who Would
instigator of the bet. Cynicism has rarely sounded so mellifluous. Be King, this is a must-read for any movie-lover.
Così Fan Tutte will be at the Royal Opera House from 10th to 24th £20. Available from Waterstone’s, Third Floor,
September from 30th September

Cosí Fan Tutte © Bill Cooper; Tamara Drewe Peter Mountain; Onassis Getty Images

THEATRE: Onassis
For all Aristotle Onassis’ moral ambiguity and shady
dealings, the Greek who fled the massacres in Smyrna by
the Turks to become one of the world’s richest men was
a dark icon of the glamorous life – and that life makes a
fine showcase for the bombast of Robert Lindsay. Martin
Sherman’s play focuses on the scandalous love life that
made Onassis an international celebrity: the affair with
Maria Callas; the marriage to Jacqueline Kennedy; and the
rumours about the bad blood between him and the rest of
the Kennedys. It’s a compelling study in wealth, power and
the lengths to which a man can be driven by lust and love.
Onassis will be showing at the Novello Theatre from
30th September to 8th January 2011
FILM: Tamara Drewe
Tamara Drewe ultimately owes its existence to Thomas Hardy. The story was loosely adapted from
Far from the Madding Crowd – very, very loosely – by cartoonist Posy Simmonds in her graphic novel
of the same name, and is now the basis of a British comedy drama that was, by general consensus,
one of the hits of this year’s Cannes Film Festival. Gemma Arterton plays Drewe, a newspaper
columnist who returns to Dorset to sell off the family estate and wreaks havoc among the local men.
Arterton shows enough presence and comic touch to prove she can stretch far beyond the screen
candy that bedecked Clash of the Titans and Quantum of Solace. Directed by Stephen Frears
(Dangerous Liaisons, The Queen), this is a rare thing: a Britcom with bite.
Tamara Drewe opens on 10th September in the UK

FILM: The Rum Diary
The Rum Diary comes with a pedigree that demands viewing.
For starters, it’s a welcome respite from Johnny Depp’s
outrageously OTT performances in various fantasy franchises,
allowing him to remind us what a fine dramatic actor he can
be when the occasion demands. He plays a troubled journalist
escaping the confines of Eisenhower’s America for an alcohol-
fuelled lifestyle in Puerto Rico. Given the setup, it’s no surprise to learn that the semi-
autobiographical novel on which it’s based was written by that whirlwind of self-destruction,
the late Hunter S Thompson – who was portrayed by Depp in Fear and Loathing in Las
Vegas. The clincher comes in the identity of the director: Bruce Robinson, the creator of
Withnail and I. Though The Rum Diary can with fair certainty be filed under cult, it’s sure
to satisfy not only the curious but also those in search of some substance with their oddity.
The Rum Diary opens on 24th September in the UK
BOOK: How to Land
an A Airbus
by James May
He’s the Top Gear presenter who has flown to the
edge of space, journeyed across the British Isles
on an alcohol-fuelled tour with Oz Clarke, and even
built a full-sized Spitfire out of Airfix. As a result
of his adventures, James May has very quietly
become a floppy-haired role model for millions of men of a certain
age. So who better to write a guidebook for the modern male?
Naturally, given May’s unreconstructed masculinity, you’re unlikely
to find anything on such new-man-style hijinks as, say, how to
knit a sweater out of muesli. But there are surprises – ‘How to
play Beethoven’s “Moonlight Sonata”’ among them. Plus, of
course, ‘How to land an airliner’, just in case of emergency. You
see? Practical, too. Covering ‘20 things a chap doesn’t realise he
should be able to do’, it’s a winning mix of humour and fascinating
information from the petrolhead with surprising depth.
£20. Available from Waterstone’s, Third Floor, from
2nd September

THEATRE: Birdsong EXHIBITION: Diaghilev and the Golden

Sebastian Faulks’ Birdsong is one of the unlikelier bestsellers of
the modern era. Though unsparing in its depiction of the horrors
Age of the Ballets Russes, ³
Diaghilev, from top © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2010;

of the First World War, the novel’s sales now stand at £3m-plus
and counting; in 2003 it came in at number 13 in the BBC’s Big
Read survey of Britain’s favourite books. Readers were transfixed
by the way Faulks’ imagination imbued the calamity of the Somme
with a renewed immediacy. Now, adapted by Rachel Wagstaff –
fêted at recent Edinburgh Festivals for her war dramas The Soldier
and Only the Brave – Birdsong comes to the stage in a production
directed by Trevor Nunn. Ben Barnes (The Chronicles of Narnia:
Prince Caspian, Dorian Grey) takes the lead role of Stephen
Wraysford, whose life is governed by his love for a woman in the
midst of war. Expect an evening of uncommon emotional power.
Birdsong will be showing at the Comedy Theatre from 18th
September to 15th January 2011
From the moment just over a century ago when the Ballets Russes
came under the inspirational command of the impresario Sergei
Diaghilev until his death 20 years later, the company cut a swathe
of sensation across Europe. Its renown must be ascribed to the
incredible dance and choreographic talent – Nijinsky, Nijinska,
Fokine, Massine, Balanchine – and the genius of the composer Igor
Stravinsky, brought together in such works as The Firebird and The
Rite of Spring. This confluence of the avant-garde also persuaded
the great visual artists of the time to contribute costumes and
scenery. Picasso, Matisse and Chanel are just a few of the names
who contributed to the legacy of the Ballets Russes, and the impact
of their creations has diminished not a jot.
At the V&A from 25th September to 9th January 2011
 introducing a new fragrance

exclusively at harrods, perfumery, ground floor

 FASHION
INTERVIEW
Hello,
DOLLY
No one knows better the double-edged sword that is feminine beauty
than Jennifer Lawrence. In her portrayal of Ree Dolly in Winter’s Bone,
she shows why she’s much more than just a pretty face. By MATT MUELLER
The phrase ‘you’re too beautiful’ isn’t likely to knock a
young actress off her confidence pedestal – unless it’s
being wielded as the reason she lost something she
desperately wanted. It’s what Jennifer Lawrence was
told when she was knocked back twice in her quest to
play Ree Dolly – the backwoods heroine of Winter’s Bone
– a poor, proud teenager whose drug-dealing father has
jumped bail and left her to pick up the pieces.
But Lawrence wasn’t going to be denied. Showing the
same stubbornness that makes her 16-year-old protagonist
one of the best female movie characters of 2010, the
LA-based ingénue hopped on a red-eye to New York to
gate-crash the final auditions. Showing up lank-haired and
haggard was perhaps the fillip writer-director Debra Granik
needed to see past Lawrence’s glamour.
“I don’t think it was so much about me making myself
uglier as it was me just saying, ‘Don’t let this get in the
way,’” Lawrence says. “I think once they saw how dedicated
I was, and that I showed up with icicles in my hair after
walking 13 blocks in the sleet, it was like, ‘You can’t say no.’”
Granik indeed relented and was duly rewarded with a
fearless, force-of-nature turn from her star that wowed this
year’s Sundance Film Festival and had US critics issuing
besotted declarations about Lawrence’s sure-fire Oscar
odds. And, with substantial female roles few and far
between, it seems foolish to bet against her.
“Of course I like hearing that, but I can’t take any of it
seriously,” Lawrence counters. “It’s kind of like preparing for
your wedding when your boyfriend hasn’t proposed to you
yet. It will be wonderful if it happens, but I can’t plan on it.”

Lawrence’s mother was the first to flag up the part
of Dolly to her, telling her she’d be perfect for the role after
reading Daniel Woodrell’s acclaimed novel. “But she’s my
mother, so I didn’t listen,” she admits. “But a few years
later, when I read the script, I just knew I had to play her.
It’s the best female role I’ve ever seen. I loved her tenacity
and her stubbornness, and that she made her own ending
out of nothing. It was fun to play someone like that, even
though it was not a fun movie to shoot.”
At one point, Dolly skins a squirrel so that she and her
two younger siblings can eat. The task was a necessity not
just for the film’s impoverished characters, but for the
actress, who performed the gruesome manoeuvre herself.
She even had lessons. “A hunter friend of my brother’s
taught me,” she recalls, “and, yeah, it was nauseating. But
here’s the weird part – I usually don’t say this, because I
don’t want people to know how weird I am, but I love
anything medical. My brother works for a medical company,
and as part of my Christmas present, he let me come in to
watch a knee surgery.”
While her own youth is a million miles removed from
Dolly’s, Lawrence did grow up in the neighbouring state
of Kentucky, so she demonstrates a natural facility for
Dolly’s accent. “It’s the same accent I used to imitate
my relatives, so it ended up workin’ out just fine,” says
Lawrence, who was raised on a horse farm that her mother
also ran as a camp every summer. As the first female born
Harper Smith
in her father’s family for 50 years, she merrily refers to
herself as ‘the black sheep of all black sheep’. “The fact
that I was the only girl and the youngest backfired on me

 INTERVIEW
Having just turned ,
she’s not entirely devoid
of gawky mannerisms…
but despite her tender
years, she is approaching
her profession with
Zen-like focus
Film stills, clockwise from top left Lawrence
as Ree Dolly in Winter’s Bone with Ashlee
Thompson as Ashlee Dolly (left) and Isaiah
Stone as Sonny Dolly; as Ree Dolly in
Winter’s Bone; as Ree Dolly; as Ree Dolly
with John Hawkes as Teardrop

totally. They didn’t know how to raise a girl, so they just
raised me as a boy, and instead of pampering me because
I was the baby, they were so sick of being parents, they
were like, ‘Ech, just do your own thing.’”
The performing bug came early, and Lawrence’s
obvious precocious talent took her to New York with her
mum, where she started landing roles in TV and film
(including the Charlize Theron drama The Burning Plain).
In person, she slightly resembles Renée Zellweger. But,
having just turned 20, she’s not entirely devoid of gawky
mannerisms. At one point she squirms in her chair in
the minimalist suite at St Martin’s Lane Hotel trying to
adjust her ruffled couture skirt. “Sorry,” she drawls, “I
don’t know how to work this dress.” Is it a particularly
complicated one? “They all are,” she laughs, adding as
a droll aside: “Just like women…”
Despite her tender years, this mesmerising young
actress is approaching her profession with Zen-like focus.
Call it the legacy of Lindsay Lohan, whose career
wreckage offers a clarion warning to other rising stars
that hard-partying lifestyles may grant you all the
paparazzi exposure you want, but also leave your career
in tatters. “Every time I go on set, I’ve had eight hours of
sleep,” says Lawrence. “Even if I have to get up at 4am,
I’ll go to sleep at 8pm the night before. I’m well rested,
I know my lines and I’m a professional. That being said…”
She bursts out laughing. “It was a small crew, we were
all good friends and we’d all go to this bar called Waxy’s.
So I had a good time too.” Isn’t she underage in America,
though? “On the record? Noooo, I just waited outside,”
she smirks. We get it – the wonders of the fake ID. “Yeah,”
she grins, “I had a fakey!” (She approves of Britain’s laxer
drinking laws – she’s already factored in at least one pub
crawl during her brief stay in London.)
With refreshing, upfront humour, Lawrence has yet
to be ironed free of quirky personality traits, something
that seems to befall Hollywood starlets once they reach
the stage where they have something to lose. Shooting
Winter’s Bone’s harrowing sequences could be tough,
she admits, but as soon as ‘cut’ was called, Lawrence
says she lapsed straight back into her “usual, idiot, hyper,
jumping-bean self”. Unlike some of her more famous
Method-worshipping peers, slipping into the skin of her
characters is like flipping a switch for Lawrence. “Even
when you see me crying on screen, I’ve usually just been
laughing my head off. And then they call ‘action’, and I
just turn my laughing tears into crying tears.”
For Lawrence’s next film, crying tears weren’t much
needed – it’s a comedy, albeit a black one, featuring
Mel Gibson as a disturbed manic depressive who
communicates through a beaver hand puppet. Once
again, The Beaver’s director and star, Jodie Foster,
initially refused to cast Lawrence as the high-school
cheerleader who falls for Gibson’s son (Star Trek’s Anton
Yelchin, now a close friend) because she wasn’t convinced
Lawrence could be funny. Cue another red-eye flight to
prove Foster wrong.
From Winter’s Bone’s wind-lashed heroine to the
stunning, immaculately groomed actress sitting before
me now, it’s not hard to see why Granik and Foster
felt confused. But there’s no arguing with Lawrence’s
natural-born talent. Bringing stinging authenticity to
Dolly, she appears destined to become a genuine movie
star, whether or not she’s being showered with awards in
a few months’ time. For all the unbridled determination
she’s shown thus far, however, Jennifer Lawrence insists
that her motto is que será será.
“I can’t control what happens,” she says. “I’ve never
cried over not getting a role. I still don’t really get upset
about not getting roles – not out of cockiness, more in
the way of what’s meant to be will happen. If someone
doesn’t like me, there’s nothing I can do. I just have to do
the best I can and march on. Skin some squirrels…” HMN
Winter’s Bone opens on 17th September in the UK;
The Beaver opens on 11th February
Matt Mueller contributes to Total Film, Screen
International, Wonderland, Entertainment Weekly
and The Guardian

Clockwise from far left The distinctive crystal
decanter of L’Or de Jean Martell; the powerful
1926 Grande Champagne cognac; Benoît Fil,
Martell’s Cellar Master; the private Martell
‘Paradis’ cellars; Jean Martell himself; the stopper
of the hand-decorated L’Or de Jean Martell bottle
Martell is a name that has
come to epitomise the French
sense of refinement and taste
known it at the time, Martell was laying the foundations
for one of France’s greatest ever success stories.
Key to a truly great cognac was – and still is – an
understanding of ‘eau-de-vie’, the clear, colourless spirit
from which it is made. In 1721, as his fledgling brand was
first being embraced by the country’s most discerning
connoisseurs, Jean Martell proudly declared that, “Our
eaux-de-vie are the finest in the kingdom”. History proves
him right: that same year the company was exporting
200,000 litres to the UK, and today Martell is the oldest
of the great cognac houses, and a name that has come to
epitomise the French sense of refinement and taste.
Now, as the company approaches its 300th anniversary,
the keys to the most hallowed corners of Martell’s cellars
have been dusted off for the creation of a cognac that is
simply without equal. It is called L’Or de Jean Martell,
and it is so special that only 20 bottles per year will be
released into the UK.
Regarded as the holiest of holies, Martell’s most
PROMOTION
exclusive cellar – known as the Jean Martell Cellar – is a
place where but a chosen few have access. It is a place that
inspires awe. It evokes feelings of respect and humility. It is
a special place indeed, for it is home to a unique collection
of spirits that date as far back as the 1830s. And it is from
this very room that the Cellar Master painstakingly draws
some of the eaux-de-vie for L’Or de Jean Martell.
To fully appreciate cognac, it is first necessary to
understand a little about how it is made. Only ever
produced from grapes grown in the Cognac region,
cognac starts out as a very fresh, light wine, the clearest
examples of which are selected by Martell and double-
distilled in traditional Charentais pot stills. The resultant
eau-de-vie is a colourless liquid that is then put into oak
barrels to age. Martell’s meticulous approach to the
traditional double-distillation method creates spirits that
are renowned for their high quality, are smooth and light,
and finer and more delicate than many other cognacs.
Adding to the magic is Martell’s insistence upon using
Tronçais-style oak, one of just two types of oak permitted,
and the one that imparts a smoother flavour. Once in the
barrels, the eaux-de-vie are left to mature before being
blended. They then return to another cask for up to six
months to ‘marry’ before they finally emerge as a cognac.
L’Or de Jean Martell owes its distinct character to aged
eaux-de-vie from the Borderies, the smallest and most
exclusive growth of the Cognac region at just 4,000
hectares and the place that was always closest to Jean
Martell’s heart. As the spirits matured, they took on almost
mystical qualities, quietly changing and developing their
own unique characteristics as history was slowly unfolding.
In the classification of cognacs, the finest blends make up
those bottles labelled as XO. But the L’Or de Jean Martell
is beyond classification. Certainly one of the most
exclusive blends in existence, it contains several hundred
aged eaux-de-vie from the most carefully guarded corners
of the Jean Martell Cellar. Such heritage and exclusivity
comes at a price: L’Or de Jean Martell is available at
£2,800 per bottle.
Not surprisingly, the attention to detail paid to L’Or de
Jean Martell extends to the bottle itself, an outstanding
decanter in the shape of a droplet, which symbolises the
quintessence of Martell’s expertise, honed over three
centuries. The decanter is set like a jewel in a pure crystal
arch, the flanks of which are decorated by gilded garlands
reminiscent of the French Classical style. Individually
hand-filled, meticulously checked and hand-decorated in
gold paint, it is an object of pure beauty. The Sun King
himself would surely have approved.
Within is a cognac of sublime quality. An intense amber
with hints of shimmering mahogany, it is elegant on the
nose with extraordinary complexity. Tasters talk of
bergamot and orange peel, of fruited harmony, myrrh,
clove, cinnamon and a hint of vanilla pod. It is a remarkable
cascade of flavours, with a richness that opens up like a
peacock’s tail.
Fittingly, L’Or de Jean Martell is launching exclusively in
the UK at Harrods. A rare breed indeed, it exists in such tiny
numbers that an Aston Martin appears positively everyday
by comparison. But then Aston Martin cars don’t rely on
component parts that have been quietly ageing since 1838.
L’Or de Jean Martell has been 300 years in the making.
One only has to taste it to appreciate it was worth the wait.
70cl, £2,800. Exclusive to Harrods. Available from
The Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor, and harrods.com
from September
Luxury Collections,
First Floor
 Portrait of a Lady
If manners maketh man, then this season’s
accessories maketh the most glamorous
autumn look. Photographer CHRIS TURNER
Clockwise from top left Dents gloves £19.95; Chanel Rouge Coco Lip Colour in Chintz £21.50;
Stylist Sonja Burri

Valentino bag £5,890; Estée Lauder After Hours refillable powder compact in Transparent
£30; Chanel sunglasses £240; Prada shoes £390; Kenzo scarf £275; background Cole & Son
‘Patina (metallic)’ wallpaper £84.95 per roll (52cm x 10m)
Available from Cosmetics, Room of Luxury I, Soft Accessories and Sunglasses, Ground
Floor; Women’s Shoes, First Floor; Home Decoration, Second Floor; and harrods.com


NEWS In WAY IN this month…
 ‘If you’ve got it, flaunt it’ could easily be Italian
brand Pinko’s motto. This stretch bandeau dress (left),
embroidered with crystals, is a masterclass in scene-
stealing partywear. Dress £635, exclusive to Harrods

 For a dose of boho-luxe glamour, look

no further than Warehouse’s exclusive
embellished metallic dresses (right) and
kaftans. From £120

 Ted Baker’s exclusive capsule

collection includes a puff-
sleeved dress and a leather bow-
front jacket. Each comes in a
limited edition of . From £159
HARRODS LAUNCHES
A unique platform for introducing new fashion talent, Harrods

 The Reiss  collection

has gathered a gang of fashion-
forward fans who will love this season’s
Launches has chosen two designers with very different aesthetics.
Hasan Hejazi’s futuristic eveningwear, which features sequins and
dyed goat fur, is, he says, “sexy, powerful and glamorous”. Nicole
Murray’s take on ladylike dressing – think cute blouses and pencil
must-have maxi dresses, cropped jackets and
skirts – is designed for “the type of woman I aspire to be: she’s
legging-style jeans. Catch it while you can elegant and demure, and loves the hand finishes of luxury fabrics”.
at the new pop-up shop. Above left Dress £899; Above right Skirt £929. Available
Available from Way In, Fourth Floor from Designer Studio, First Floor; and harrods.com

AUTUMN CLASSICS NEW TO International Designers

Welcome the seasonal chill with
a snuggly array of knits new
in-store this month, from
Eskandar’s relaxed cashmere
to Malo’s chunky knits, dresses
at D.Exterior and Steffen
Schraut’s updated basics.
Or, for extra sparkle, try Hugo
Boss’s embellished coat.
Hugo Boss coat (left) £3,350,
exclusive to Harrods. Available
from Classics and Luxury
Collections, First Floor
Four of this season’s most coveted collections are new in-store this
month. Francisco Costa’s modern take on cool ’90s minimalism at
Calvin Klein (right) has ushered in a whole new generation of fans
who love the clean cut of his shift dresses and separates. Previously
at Louis Vuitton, Peter Copping provides an instant dose of Parisian
glamour for Nina Ricci (far right) with his structured coats and satin
shift dresses. Never predictable, Christopher Kane departs from the
sweet gingham dresses of his SS10 collection with black lace and
leather embroidered with flowers for AW10’s hard-edged folk look.
Finally, having worked as both a stylist and model, L’Wren Scott
demonstrates her expert grasp of not only what flatters the female
body, but also what women want, with a sharply tailored collection.
Calvin Klein dress £2,550; Nina Ricci jacket £1,500 and skirt
£629. Available from International Designer Room, First Floor

RM BY ROLAND IPPOLITA
MOURET EXCLUSIVE ROCKS
Monsieur Mouret’s legendary silhouette is way beyond
The rocks do the talking for
fashion trends. His latest RM collection is classic Mouret,
Ippolita’s new jewellery
featuring familiar strong shoulder lines and bias draping.
collection, available
Exclusively at Harrods for September is this cap-sleeve
in-store from October.
waterfall-front dress in purple.
In the signature style
£1,350. Available from International Designer Room,
of New-Yorker cool meets
First Floor
Italian sculpture, Ippolita
has created the Rock Candy

NICOLE range, mixing agate and

onyx on hand-hammered
FARHI AW gold bangles and cuffs.
Gustav Klimt’s paintings inspire the To stack or not to stack,
Klimt Bridgeman Art Library

graphic prints in Nicole Farhi’s AW10 that is the question.

collection. This silk dress (right) shows From £500.
Farhi’s ability to combine Parisian chic Exclusive to Harrods.
with London nonchalance, and is perfect Available from
to carry you from day to evening. Designer Jewellery,
Available from Classics, First Floor Ground Floor

 harrods.com
Exclusively at Harrods, Perfumery, Ground Floor
STYLE Valentino
scarf £87.95

Carolina Bucci Special

Edition PRODUCT (RED)
‘Lucky’ bracelet £150

Emilio Pucci Jimmy Choo

dress £2,200 handbag £895

Milly sweater
£239

Balmain
Princesse Tam Tam trousers
‘Lovely’ bra £42.95 Christian
£2,750
and briefs £24.95 Dior
sandals
£540

Preen dress
£679

OPI Nail Lacquer Guerlain

in Colour So Hot Rouge G
It Berns £10 lipstick in 69
Gwen £27

CHERRY POP
Stylist Poppy Rock; cherries Getty

The new-season colour palette has a delicious burst M Missoni

of lip-smacking red. Free your inner scarlet woman skirt £169

Available from Beauty Apothecary, Cosmetics, Designer Jewellery, Room of Luxury II Marc by
Marc Jacobs
and Soft Accessories, Ground Floor; Designer Collections, Designer Studio, International
jacket £460
Designer Rooms, Lingerie and Women’s Shoes, First Floor; and harrods.com


 LIGHTING COLLECTION

B AC C A R AT D E PA R T M E N T AT H A R R O D S + 4 4 2 0 7 8 2 3 7 8 7 6
 Tateossian
cuff links
STYLE
£1,950

Vivienne
Westwood
trousers Bottega
£359 Veneta
shirt £249

Hermès
cravat
£560

Paul
Smith
shirt
£119
Christian Dior
Eau Sauvage
Extrême eau de
toilette 100ml, £45

Harrods bow
tie £39.95

Lanvin jacket
Rag & Bone £1,400, shirt
£289 and Harrods
waistcoat
trousers £419 cashmere
£279
cardigan
£349

Joseph
Cheaney
shoes £315 Z Zegna
jacket
£1,250

FINE & DANDY

This season’s requisite smart jacket comes with
all manner of gentlemanly accessories, including
cuff links, cravats and neat bow ties
Stylist Poppy Rock

Blancpain
Available from Menswear, Lower Ground Floor and Ground Floor; Villeret Complete
Fine Jewellery & Watch Room, Men’s Shoes & Accessories and Perfumery, Calendar watch
Ground Floor; and harrods.com £11,340

harrods.com 
NEWS

Turnbull & Asser 125th Anniversary

125
World-renowned tailors Turnbull & Asser
have been dressing an impressive list of
dapper gentlemen since 1885. Renowned
for their hand tailoring as well as their use
of the finest fabrics, these Jermyn Street
VINCE LA
stalwarts are celebrating their 125th LA-based label Vince has quietly attracted a cult following with its easy separates
anniversary as suavely as to be expected, and laid-back West Coast vibe. The AW10 collection, inspired by vintage
reinterpreting five shirts from their American sportswear, includes flannel shirts in classic plaid, chunky cable
archives for a whole new generation. knits and denims. And with retro-style gems in the form of leather varsity
Each shirt is individually numbered, and biker jackets, you’ll have the cheerleaders falling over themselves.
with 125 available in each style. New to Men’s Casuals, Lower Ground Floor;
From £175. Available from Men’s and harrods.com
Tailoring, Ground Floor

Eton Diamond Shirt TIMED PERFECTION

The perfect fit and the perfect fabric Franck Muller’s racing-inspired chrono conveys all the passion
are the raison d’être of Eton Diamond. and exhilaration of the racetrack. The Chronograph Conquistador
As the universally acknowledged Rolls- Grand Prix range come in the kind of lightweight, super-strength,
Royce of the shirting world, the crisp, hi-tech alloys that are usually employed for use in motor racing
traditional white dress shirts in Giza 45 or the space programme. Each watch features either rose gold or
Egyptian cotton come with a choice of studs a new red metal named Ergal, and are fitted with state-of-the-art
and are so silkily fine, cool and lightweight that automatic movements. The finer details of these watches are
once tried, nothing else will do. as sharp and technically challenging as you would expect
From £399. Available from Men’s Shirts & Ties, from a dashboard or cockpit. Speed freaks will be in heaven.
Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com From £7,200. Available from Fine Jewellery and Watch
Room, Ground Floor

Slendertone Male Face

It might look like the latest hi-tech gaming gadget, but
the Slendertone Male Face is the newest indispensable
addition to your grooming regime, giving your face
the workout your body gets at the gym.
Small electrical charges are emitted into
the facial tissue, gently stimulating
and sculpting the muscles beneath,
leaving them firmer and more toned.
£300, exclusive to Harrods.
Available from Beauty Apothecary,
Ground Floor; and harrods.com

TAG Heuer CALLING CLASSIC CROMBIE

Not content with being a leading watch brand,
TAG Heuer is making waves in the mobile world.
Bold, masculine and made from steel with alligator-skin
backs – like a TAG Heuer watch – Meridiist phones are
designed to make a statement. With the black diamond
model featuring 208 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 1.34
carats and the rose gold & stainless steel edition with a
total of 16.2 grams in solid gold, these phones command
a presence in the hand or, indeed, a weight in the pocket.
From £10,600. Available from Fine Jewellery
& Watch Room, Ground Floor
There’s been some smart thinking at Crombie,
where the archives have creaked open to reveal
design classics just waiting to be re-released.
Replica o≈cers’ military coats as well as the
faithful Crombie have been reworked and brought
up to date in lightweight, smooth cashmeres and
cleverly shower-proofed wools.
From £795. Available from Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor

harrods.com
 Today’s bright hope for British fashion has put London back on
the international show schedule. His name is Christopher Kane
By LAURA BARTON/Illustrator JESSICA MAY UNDERWOOD

It is a midweek morning in July, and in his apartment in East
London, Christopher Kane is already, by his own admission,
five cups of tea down. He is just 12 weeks away from showing
his collection for Spring/Summer 2011, and at present
everything is in a state of disarray. “The thing is, you can
never remember how you started the last one,” he says,
sounding faintly puzzled, and perhaps just a little bit alarmed.
“You feel like a novice every time. But the pressure’s on. The
whole world is watching you.”
Indeed it is. Since Kane graduated from Central Saint Martins
in 2006, he has earned a reputation for innovative, intelligent
designs that display a certain pleasing audacity and a great sense
of fun that has seen him, at the tender age of 25, compared with
the likes of Gianni Versace, Hervé Léger and Antony Price.
The adoration started early; before he had even left college,
Kane had secured the Lancôme Colour Award, while his MA
graduate collection won the Harrods Design Award, and as
part of his prize, for several weeks in spring 2006 his collection
of stretch lace dresses decorated with brass rings occupied a
window in the store.
In the past four years he has displayed an extraordinary
inventiveness and a staggering talent. There have been neon
bandage dresses, sequins, velvet, leather and nude chiffon driven
by influences as diverse as the Flintstones, gorillas and American
religious cults. He has, in that time, also acquired something of
a devoted following. His collections have proven a phenomenal
commercial success, and his designs have been worn by everyone
from Victoria Beckham to Emma Watson and Carey Mulligan.
Meanwhile, he has somehow found time to work with Versace,
design costumes for Kylie Minogue and lip-gloss tubes for
Lancôme, as well as produce a capsule collection for Topshop.
This year, his resort collection saw him stray into menswear.
And for Autumn/Winter 2010, he has presented one of his most
exquisite collections to date, all embroidered leather and lace,
kimono cuts, kilts, fine tailoring and a shoe collection.
Kane sighs a little at the thought of his workload. “From an
outsider’s point of view, fashion is all parties, parties…” he says
bleakly, “but really it’s blood, sweat and tears. And there’s always
deadline after deadline.” The worst time, he insists, begins right
now, in the weeks leading up to a new collection. “At the moment,
it’s just a matter of putting all the ingredients in the pot,” he
explains. “We’ve just started doing small textile samples, and
sampling is the worst – it’s waiting around for everyone else. I’m
pacing up and down with cans of Diet Coke and cups of tea.” It
sounds, I suggest, something akin to being an expectant father.
“Yes,” he concedes. “But it’s 10 times worse!”
For Kane, there is also the added pressure of expectation. He
has been credited with reversing the fortunes of London Fashion
Week, his shows ensuring that the city has been reinstated as an
essential part of the fashion calendar, and his collections fêted


FASHION

$XWXPQ:LQWHU
Right Christopher Kane
dress £2,200 Above
Christopher Kane dress
£2,700 Top, from left
Christopher Kane sweater
£899; biker jacket £4,100;
shirt £679 and skirt £1,650;
shirt £979 and skirt £2,000.
All from AW10 collection
by the likes of Carine Roitfeld, Suzy Menkes and Anna
Wintour – the latter having invited the boy wonder
to tea way back in 2006. Kane is quick to brush off the
compliment, nodding to the attraction of other British
labels such as Burberry, and the broader attraction of
raw young talent. “There was a time when people thought
otherwise, but London has the best art colleges in the
world,” he insists. “There is so much talent in Britain.”
Still, the pressure of being the wunderkind must get to
him sometimes? “It’s survival of the fittest!” he half-jokes.
“You’re an animal, thrown into a pit of wolves, and you’re
terrified!” But in truth there is no criticism that can
measure up to his own. “Every season I get bored so
easily, and I think, I can’t do that, I can’t do that… But it
pushes me forward,” he explains. “And I don’t expect
everyone to like it. But as long as I’m happy, some other
people will like it, too.” There is always a moment in each
collection when he knows he has created something
special. “It’s when you see it on the models, and you get
that shiver up your spine,” he says warmly. “The first time
I felt it was in my MA show, when [Saint Martins Course
Director] Louise Wilson was looking at my collection. She
had a cigarette in her mouth and she said, ‘That’s f***ing
brilliant!’” He pauses. “I really respect Louise.”
Wilson has been a long-term Kane supporter, as has
Donatella Versace — ”You basically just want to download
Donatella’s brain,” he says. “She’s been there, done that.”
But the woman who has been Kane’s greatest ally is his
older sister, Tammy, who studied textile design and is now
responsible for both the financial side of his label and
assisting her brother in fabric creation. “We’re each
other’s shadows,” is how he describes their relationship.
“Tammy’s always there to pick me up. And vice versa.
We can trust each other.”
They never need each other more, he says, than in the
weeks leading up to a show. “Because things always go
wrong before a show,” he explains. And, indeed, the past
four years do offer a catalogue of pre-show disasters:
tales of computers crashing and studios flooding. But
none was so awful as in 2007, when his entire collection
was stolen a week before the show. Kane sounds lightly
amused at the recollection now. “That was in the Top
10 Worst Things, yes. But, you know, two hours after it
happened, I was laughing about it.”
Kane grew up in Motherwell, just outside Glasgow. One
of five children, he showed an early interest in art and
fashion, obsessed from a young age with The Clothes
Show and Antiques Roadshow, and Fashion TV. “And I
was a total Benetton kid!” he laughs. “I had the striped
jumpers and the drawstring rucksack and the wallet and
the keyring. I wore only bright colours. And now I only
wear black!”
Though Christopher, Tammy and their sister Sandra
were all fashion-mad, he recalls that his mother was never
particularly interested in fashion. “But she always looked
good,” he says. “She’d wear her hair slicked back, and a
camel leather jacket with bell-bottoms and a fitted jumper.
She was always clean and minimal. These days? Well,
these days she wears a lot of my things.” He sounds
rather proud. “And she was never one for make-up or
perfume — she’s quite a simple person, but she’s just
started to wear perfume. I bought her some Jo Malone.”
His move to London as a student he recalls as “a real
eye-opener…it was pretty intense for someone from a
small village, because no one cares here; it’s free-spirited
and people don’t think about things. When you first get
here, your head is in overdrive; London’s so big and
diverse, and the shopping is just great.”
His love for London is part of a broader patriotism that
has manifested itself in Kane’s efforts to source as many
of his materials as possible from Britain. “It’s hard living
and working in Britain, because you always hear about
these amazing factories and manufacturers that have
closed down,” he explains. “The cashmere industry in
Scotland has nearly died out, but we’ve used the same
Scottish cashmere company for the past seven seasons.
It takes me back to my roots, of course, but it’s also just
such great quality, such a beautiful product.”
One of the qualities that marks out Kane’s work is his
eye for unusual fabrics. Last season, for example, he
showed gingham, a fabric many might dismiss as prim and
twee and the stuff of school uniforms and barn dances.
But in his hands it became something provocative and
seductive. “I’ve always seen it in the context of Lolita and

Last season he showed gingham,
a fabric many might dismiss as
prim and twee and the stuff of
school uniforms and barn dances.
But in his hands it became
provocative and seductive
’50s pin-ups, Brigitte Bardot and very provocative women.”
This year he has recast leather, transforming it from
the realm of brittle dominatrix into something pretty and
covetable, a sort of bad girl with good manners. “I’ve
never really done floral before,” he says, “and to do it
on leather and patent was beautiful. It’s the power of
flowers!” he exclaims. “And flowers sell, sell, sell!
Everyone loves flowers. It was like, let’s do flowers
forever. Flowers and leopard print, they’re the two things
that always sell…maybe it’s because they’re so instinctive.”
Kane described the collection as “a mixture of juvenile
delinquents and an ironic take on the Women’s Institute”,
and cited one of his main inspirations as Priscilla Presley
“before Elvis got his hands on her”. He laughs a little
at the mention of his influences, from Jim Jones
documentaries to Stephen King, via Scarlett O’Hara and
Rambo. He is fastidious, too, about every element of the
presentation of his collections — shows have seen models
heading down the catwalk to gospel music and the
Natural Born Killers soundtrack.
“I’m always doing research, always watching films,
reading books, putting random words into the computer
and seeing what comes up,” he explains. “And I love music.
The last show we had a Dinah Washington song, ‘Blue
Gardenia’, which is talking about being young and suddenly
Catwalking.com; Kane Corbis
you’re old; she talks about flowers growing old. Everyone
was crying backstage!” He laughs broadly. “But my
thinking is, it’s always good to be taken by surprise.” HMN
Christopher Kane is available from International
Designer Room and Women’s Shoes, First Floor
How toWear
LEOPARD
PRINT
You don’t have to be a siren to Roberto Cavalli
jumpsuit £1,500
and scarf £429
pull off this look but, with a little
attitude, you’ll feel like one
By LAURA BARTON
Somewhere inside you resides an inner leopard. You may
as yet be unaware of this she-beast, prowling about in the
depths of your belly, but rest assured she is there, filing
Balmain coat
her claws, biding her time. What’s more, this season you £13,200
will have good reason to call upon her, for leopard print
has returned for another tour of duty as the pattern to
be wearing this autumn.
Now, the problem with leopard print is that one woman’s
fabulous Roberto Cavalli animal-print jumpsuit is another
woman’s Bet Lynch. It has always been thus. Leopard print
pads a fine line between brilliant daring and obnoxious
trailer-trash attire, and it is your mission, this season, to
keep on the right side of the gutter.
There are no half-measures here, no leopard-print lite;
if you are going to wear this look, you must do so with
boldness and chutzpah and not a little ferocity. Animal
Etro top £629
and skirt (UK
exclusive) £1,450
print is, after all, a look that can overwhelm the half-
hearted wearer, that can make the unprepared appear
to have been pounced upon by Engelbert Humperdinck’s
bedsheets. No, you must tame your Balmain, subdue
Dolce & Gabbana
it with a steady eye, make sure at all times you wear
dress £960
the coat, and that on no account does it wear you.
The second trick is to avoid being too brassy. If you’ve
headed to the pub wearing your divine Etro shell top
and matching heels, there can be no giant gilt earrings,
no bleach-blonde beehive, no gin and orange and a swift
game of darts. Rather you must counterbalance your
leopardy ensemble by exuding an air of class and
sophistication, which will mean your pub-based activities
will be limited: no propping up the bar; no billiards; no
putting Julie London on the jukebox shortly before closing
time and caterwauling your way through ‘Cry Me a River’.
Thirdly, brace yourself for the inevitable flurry of
attention that leopard print demands. Do not be startled
if your stunning Gucci three-quarter-length coat attracts
catcalls in the street, or if you find that a striking number
of passers-by emit an involuntary purring sound as you
stalk past. Leopard print, you see, appeals to our most
feral urges, our most animalistic desires, and few can
resist passing comment, clawing the air, or uttering
a sultry “me-OW” in its presence. So, if you should be
stepping out in a breathlessly tight Dolce & Gabbana
frock one fine autumn evening, oversized leopard spots
clinging to your every curve, you’re certainly going to
be needing that inner leopard.
Available from International Designer Room,
First Floor
Laura Barton is a feature writer for The Guardian. Gucci coat
£7,820
She also writes for Q, The Word, Vogue and Red
NEWS
SPANISH
STYLE Spain has more than its fair share of
legendary artists – Dalí, Goya, Balenciaga and,
um, Javier Bardem… Continuing this creative
curve is Carrera y Carrera, a thoroughly
Spanish haute joaillerie brand with a
thoroughly Spanish design aesthetic. New for
autumn 2010 is Palacios del Sur, a collection of
pieces in yellow and white gold with
diamonds that pays tribute to the
architecture of southern Spain.
Carrera y Carrera yellow gold
‘Córdoba’ ring £5,500
HAUTE
HOROLOGY
Dior’s timelessly elegant
signature diamond bezel is
given a touch of flamboyance
this season with a new
collection of cocktail
watches. The 38mm La D De
Dior features a black opal
dial as rich and unusual as
you would expect from Dior,
while the 19mm La Mini D De
Dior watches are as charming as
they are petite. Limited to 10
pieces each in serpentine, jade
(right), chrysoprase and turquoise.
La D De Dior watches from £5,450

ART MEETS DANCE

Proving that creativity can elegantly jeté from one
artistic discipline to another, H.Stern has found

Princess Diaries inspiration for its new collection in the world

of modern dance. H.Stern + Grupo Corpo is
a collaboration between the
internationally renowned
As style iconography goes, Joséphine de Beauharnais – Napoleon
Brazilian jewellery brand
Bonaparte’s first wife and Chaumet’s first muse – could be suitably smug
and the audacious
that, over  years after she was crowned Empress of France, the brand Grupo Corpo dance
has named a new collection of diamond-encrusted jewels in her honour. group. Having
Central to the designs is her emblematic tiara, of which the collection studied the sinuous
features two, each with more than  diamonds as well as a centrally lines of body and
movement, the H.Stern
positioned brilliant-cut diamond or a pear-cut fancy yellow diamond.
designers twisted 18kt
Both are also engraved with declarations of love that Napoleon yellow and Noble gold, diamonds
sent to the empress. The remaining  pieces include rings, a necklace and coloured gemstones into dynamic
and a watch, each studded with brilliant-cut diamonds on a avant garde shapes that perfectly capture
bed of platinum or white, yellow or rose gold. the freewheeling, improvisational spirit of
Chaumet Joséphine Collection tiara, price on application both brands. H.Stern + Grupo Corpo Collection
yellow gold and diamond bracelet £1,600

BULGARI Diamond Raindrops

SERPENT A summer shower of diamonds continues to make waves
Designed to coil elegantly about at Boodles as the latest Raindance collection is launched.
the wrist, the Bulgari Serpenti Fluid designs sprinkled with brilliant-cut diamonds make
watch was a legend in its own up the range of platinum bracelets, necklaces and rings.
time when it first came to life The collection’s centrepiece is a one-of-a-kind cuff (below),
on the Bulgari design benches rippling with star sapphires, mint-green tourmalines and
in the 1950s. Sixty years aquamarines. Boodles Raindance collection from £3,800
on and the new Serpenti
is a similarly triumphant
handcrafted construction,
reinterpreted for a new
generation of horologists and
fine jewellery aficionados and
available in pink gold or steel.
Bulgari Serpenti watch in pink
gold £14,700

All available from Fine Jewellery & Watch Room, Ground Floor

harrods.com
 Available on
Sports, Fifth Floor

INTERVIEW

Credits TK Images
 Family
Guy
Ermenegildo Zegna has magicked his grandfather’s tailoring
business into an internationally acclaimed suiting brand
By LAUREN COCHRANE/Photographer ALBERTO CONTI

It is 9.18am on a Wednesday at Ermenegildo Zegna HQ. The phones are

buzzing, visitors wait in the reception area and the sun is streaming
through elegant windows. Then, suddenly, the atmosphere begins to
fizz with energy – a smartly dressed man bounds into the room,
followed by various assistants, carrying a suit over one shoulder. This
is Mr Gildo Zegna – CEO of the menswear powerhouse, the man behind
the brand, and a ball of energy. The working day has truly begun.
Located on the border between Switzerland and Italy, nestled between
mountains and trees, the Zegna office is housed in an old shirt factory
bought by Angelo Zegna, Gildo’s father. While the outside is ornate – like
a country house complete with grounds and even a resident cat – the
inside is a slick granite affair perhaps more at home in the big city
surrounds of Milan. Innovation wrapped up in tradition, it’s a typical
Zegna combination. Celebrating its centenary this year, Zegna has used
this juxtaposition to make its luxury menswear a success the world over.
Credits TK Images

With a firm handshake, we are whisked upstairs. Gildo Zegna’s office is

a light and airy space with a painting of the nearby mountains, along with
sports memorabilia, on the walls. The most treasured possession, perhaps,
comes in the shape of a small leather-bound diary, by his side constantly.


 INTERVIEW
As well as keeping up with the hectic schedule of any CEO,
Zegna is also fitting in the year-long celebrations to mark
the centenary. Off the back of a recent huge party in Milan,
the Zegna team will fly to Shanghai at the end of the week
to celebrate at the store there. While the Milan party
involved dancing ‘to disco music until three in the morning’,
so far Zegna’s most memorable moment came a little closer
to home. “On Tuesday, May 11th,” he says, looking it up in the
omnipresent diary, “we celebrated with the workers. My
father, cousins and I all stood up and spoke. We did the
celebration at the local mill, but it was linked by satellite
to 7,000 people around the world. It was very touching.”
Born in 1955, the ever-enthusiastic Gildo has been key
to the Zegna brand since the ’80s, when he was in charge
of US expansion. It was in America that he discovered
disco – “I used to go to Studio 54 twice a week at least, it
was incredible,” he remembers – and also his love for the
family business. “In this one company, I get to be so many
things: stylist, engineer, retailer. There are no boundaries.”
His relatives might say the same thing – sister Anna and

cousin Laura oversee the Oasi Zegna, a 100-square-
kilometre nature reserve, while brother Paolo is the
“In this one company,
president of the Ermenegildo Zegna Group. I get to be so many things:
Started by Ermenegildo Zegna (Gildo’s grandfather
and namesake) in 1910, the company is now on its fourth
stylist, engineer, retailer.
generation of family members taking inspiration from the There are no boundaries”
founder’s pioneering spirit. “In those days, Britain was
seen as the place for tailoring, but my grandfather created
a niche by adding Italian design,” explains Zegna. By 1945,
Zegna was sold in more than 40 countries. Meanwhile,
Ermenegildo was also busy making a reputation for
himself as a responsible employer. He built a swimming
pool and town hall in Trivero, the Piedmont town where
Zegna was based (and where the wool for suits is still spun
into fabric at the Lanificio Ermenegildo Zegna mill). This
was followed by the Panoramica Zegna road linking Trivero
and tourist destination Bielmonte, completed by his sons
Angelo and Aldo in 1963. As Angelo has said, Ermenegildo
was “an ecologist even before the term existed”.
Ermengildo’s legacy is implicit in everything the brand
does, but the centenary products pay particular homage.
The autumn/winter collection is inspired by the nature
he loved, brought up to date with signature lightweight
fabrics. A collaboration with Girard-Perregaux produces
the brand’s first watch (available in a limited edition of
100), while OMAS helped create a fountain pen in honour
of Ermenegildo’s favourite writing instrument. Fabric
Number One, meanwhile, is a limited-edition fabric based
on the first fabric Zegna made. Revamped with state-of-
the-art fabric innovations, it has gone from a 500-grams-
per-metre weight to just 270 grams. “My grandfather
would have been very proud,” says Zegna with a grin.
“We have taken the brand along the path he started on.”
Innovative design keeps the business evolving. See
‘Traveller’, a crease-proof fabric, or the popular ‘Cool Far left, from top The reception area of the
Zegna HQ; technology meets good old-
Effect’ suiting, which brings the body temperature down fashioned tailoring in: the dispatch room; the
by 10 degrees. “We like to create products with a brain,” hand-tailoring room; the hand-finishing room
 INTERVIEW
Clockwise from top The fabric
room; the showroom; more
hand finishing
explains Zegna. The power of tailoring is never underestimated,
however. Creating its suits mostly from scratch, Zegna
sources the wool, cuts the patterns and assembles the
design almost entirely in-house. The various lines ensure
there’s something for every man – from the ultra-luxurious
Couture and Su Misura (made to measure) to the cutting-
edge Z Zegna and techno-savvy Zegna Sport. As Gildo says,
they all conform to a certain attitude. “Zegna is for an
international man. He also doesn’t need to show off too
much. Ours is a low-key approach that allows the man to
show his own personality.”
This cool, calm and collected approach has served the
family well. Even in 2009, a hard year by any standards, Zegna
came out stronger. And if you are in doubt of a booming
business, take a visit to the factories near the headquarters.
‘Bustling’ would be the only word to describe a place where
around 1,000 workers complete countless stages and 33,000
stitches to create a Zegna suit. That innovation-plus-tradition
equation is in evidence here, too; sleeves are hand-sewn onto
jackets, but the pattern for ready-to-wear suits is created with
the latest in laser-cutting technology.
As for the secret of working with your family, Zegna
believes a respect for the previous generation is crucial, “as
well as a confidence to do something yourself. I always say,
each generation has to build a new floor of the house. My
generation will be remembered for linking fashion and
design. It’s up to the next generation what they will do.” With
11 children from the four siblings in all, the future is bright.
But Zegna makes it clear that this is no easy ride, and that
they will have to pull their weight. “They are preparing
themselves to enter the family business,” he says. “I would
be happy to take them if they have the passion.” With this
man in the family, you have to imagine that passion, along
with innovation, is built into their DNA. HMN
Zegna is available from Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor
Lauren Cochrane writes about fashion and culture for Vogue,
The Guardian, i-D and the Financial Times

ONLINE
Visit harrods.com
SHOE BOUTIQUE
NOW ONLINE
The fantasy footwear of the Shoe Boutique is
now launching at harrods.com. From 9th
September visit the website to see a cracking
line-up for both women and men. Discover
collections from designers including Yves
Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Valentino, Chloé,
Salvatore Ferragamo, Gina and more. Plus
there’s free returns on all products.
Available now from harrods.com
INTRODUCING
THE CHILDREN’S
FASHION
BOUTIQUE
Give mini-fashionistas a head start in style
with the cute new collections now available
online for girls, boys and infants. Designers
include Tommy Hilfiger, D&G, Hugo Boss,
Sonia Rykiel, Ralph Lauren and more, plus an
extensive nursery furniture range and
baby gift selection. harrods.com
NEW DESIGNERS
FOR A/W 
A favourite of Gwyneth Paltrow, the cool
curves of Preen’s dresses can now be found
at harrods.com, along with a host of new
designers for AW10. New brands to mens-
and womenswear online include McQ, Joie,
Joseph and Haute Hippie, Band of Outsiders,
Vince and James Perse. Available now from
harrods.com
 STYLE PROMOTION

Lacoste Lacoste
hat £24.95 shirt £99.95
and jacket
£169

Lacoste
cardigan
£249
Lacoste
jacket £259

Lacoste
sweater £199

Lacoste
jacket
£169

Lacoste
hat £24.95

Lacoste
gloves
£39.95

Lacoste
trousers
Lacoste
£129
shirt
£99.95

VARSITY REDS
With a nod to vintage Americana, this autumn Lacoste
has given preppy-chic separates an Ivy-League update
LACOSTE
Map Getty

Lacoste is available from Men’s Contemporary, Lower Ground Floor; Sport, Fifth Floor;
and harrods.com
 La Belle
ÉPOQUE
A golden age in fashion brings a new exclusivity to
eveningwear as limited-edition gowns feature all the exotic
details and elegant fabrics usually reserved for haute couture
Photographer DAN SMITH / Fashion Editor SARAH WEBB


 FASHION

Louis Vuitton dress £24,900;

Lanvin ring £250

 FASHION

This page Victoria

Beckham dress £3,250
Opposite page Oscar de la
Renta dress £8,750 and
necklace £679; Dolce &
Gabbana shoes £445
 FASHION

This page Roberto Cavalli

dress £5,500; Lara Bohinc
shoes £590
Opposite page Marchesa
dress £5,550
FASHION
This page Michael Kors
dress £6,850
Opposite page J Mendel
dress £7,980; Erickson
Beamon brooch £195
FASHION

Monique Lhuillier dress £5,150

HAIR Keiichiro Hirano at DWM

MAKE-UP Emma Osborne at
nakedartists.com using
Dermalogica
MODEL Alek at Select Models
STYLIST’S ASSISTANTS
Poppy Rock and Alexander Gray
PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANTS
Andy Mayfield and Gabby Laurent

Available from Designer

Jewellery, Ground Floor; and
Eveningwear, International
Designer Room and Women’s
Designer Shoes, First Floor
 Easy Rider
There’s a new mood in town
for dressing down, in laid-back
layers of luxurious shearling,
leather and denim
Photographer DIEGO MERINO
Fashion Editor MITCHELL BELK


 FASHION
Rick Owens jacket £1,275; J Lindeberg
shirt £159; Acne T-shirt £69.95;
Helmut Lang jeans £209
 FASHION

UNRETOUCHED

This page John Galliano shirt £229;

Dolce & Gabbana jeans £419; Burberry
sunglasses £189; Opposite page
3.1 Phillip Lim poncho scarf £269,
sweater £409 and shirt £229; Dolce &
Gabbana jeans £419; Paul Smith belt
£69.95; Dolce & Gabbana boots £505
 FASHION

This page Dolce & Gabbana shirt £319 and

jeans £319; John Galliano T-shirt £129; D&G
sunglasses £115; Opposite page Harrods
jacket £899; Alexander McQueen T-shirt
with scarf attached £169; Spurr jeans £129;
Dolce & Gabbana boots £505
UNRETOUCHED
 FASHION

This page Helmut Lang coat £519;

John Galliano shirt £229; Diesel jeans £169;
Moncler scarf £119; Opposite page Dolce & Gabbana
jacket £1,800; Rick Owens T-shirt £149; Maison
Martin Margiela jeans £229; Burberry boots £495

GROOMING Nina Beckert at Soho Management

MODEL Oliver Cheshire at Select Model Management

Available from Men’s Contemporary & Casuals,

Lower Ground Floor; Men’s Shoes & Accessories,
Ground Floor; and harrods.com
 special

The Definitive
Guide to
Choosing a
FRAGRANCE
Selecting a scent is not an exact science,
but with a little help from the experts, a perfect
perfume is just a page or two away
By JAN MASTERS/Photographer RUI FARIA


FRAGRANCE SPECIAL
Shopping for a fragrance is unlike seeking
and selecting anything else. You can’t try
on a perfume in the same way you can
slide (or struggle) into a new pair of jeans.
There’s no list of tech specs to check, no
ergonomic features to put to the test.
If anything, it’s like buying a painting,
a composition that attracts you; perhaps
it’s even more personal than that, because
a scent becomes your second skin. It’s
an invisible, ephemeral aura, redolent
of magic and loaded with meaning.
Trying to pigeonhole your personality into distinct
perfume profiles tends to oversimplify the process. Sure,
you may be a brunette with a passion for brooding poetry
and exotic climes, but that doesn’t mean you will be
DNA-drawn only to opulent Oriental fragrance, or that you’ll
forever turn up your nose at florals. In fact, in the same way
that a cocktail dress worn with biker boots can have a
devastatingly off-kilter charm, unexpected coalitions of
character and cologne can prove provocative, too.
Besides, fragrance fulfils more than one role in our
lives. I love an easy-breezy scent as my daily companion
– something I’m as happy to rub shoulders with when I
buy my morning coffee as I am in a cab home at midnight:
a citrusy or herbal blend like Eau de Guerlain or Hermès’
Eau d’Orange Verte – fragrances that have a crisp bite,
that are ‘clean’ in a bottle. But when I want to escape,
I love the meditative, mystical note of vetiver, finessed
in something like Armani Privé’s Bois d’Encens.
Then there are fragrances that I simply savour as a
snapshot of the past. I still go into a pharmacy to sample
4711. As a child, my mother used to wear it on holidays.
One inhalation and I’m reminded of the petrol-blue leather
seats of my dad’s Wolseley; of catching dripping ice cream
with my tongue; of cool wrists and warm sunshine.
Loving – and buying – fragrance really is a journey, not
a destination. And a single purchase is not necessarily for
life. It can just be for Christmas. And while a perfume may
underscore your whole personality, it can also shine a
search beam on a facet of your character you barely knew
you possessed.
Which is why choosing a fragrance is not, and can never
be, an exact science. You may discover something you
love by chance or by design, become fascinated at first
encounter, or seduced slowly, by degrees. There are no rules.
There are, however, clues – scented signposts that can
help you refine, redirect and embellish your search for
‘the one’ or indeed ‘the seven’. And whether you end up
on an all-out shopping spree or a lifelong perfumed
pilgrimage, we hope our guide will enhance your
enjoyment of the whole experience of fragrance.
FAMILY VALUES
There’s nothing to say you have to stick slavishly to one
or two fragrance families. If you become too strict and
technical with classification systems, it can give you a
worse headache than a cheap perfume.
That said, having an idea of the styles that beckon you
on a regular basis can help to narrow your search as you
navigate the Perfumery. For instance, if you look at the
fragrances you’ve purchased in the past, it may be crystal
clear that you adore florals. So exploring the wealth
available – light florals, such as Chloé’s Eau de Fleurs
Capucine; lush, fruity-florals like Jo Malone’s Nectarine
Blossom & Honey cologne; or florientals like Van Cleef &
Arpels’ Oriens – is a good idea.
Then again, the fragrance family you buy the most may
be different to the one you wear the most. Survey your
collection. Is it home to numerous Orientals because you
are magnetised by their warmth and sensuality? Yet do
you notice that the solitary citrus scent on your shelf is
drained, because that’s the one that makes you feel happy?
If so, exploring diverse, more complex citrus or green
fragrances (such as Acqua di Parma’s Bergamotto di
Calabria or L’Eau Serge Lutens) might, in reality, yield more
exciting and lasting unions than the ones you think are
‘your type’ (note: a similar test can be applied to lovers).
A LITTLE LESSON IN SHARPENING
YOUR SENSE OF SMELL
As you frequent the Perfumery, it helps to start giving
your nose a general workout, too. It can help render your
fragrance-sifting abilities more keen. It can also help you
recognise which kinds of aromas appeal to you.
• Develop the habit of ‘noticing’. Tune in to the odours
around you: the slightly beachy smell of wet concrete
after rain; the camphor-dustiness of old books; the
breath-shortening green fuzz of tomato plants; the
cedary scent of pencil shavings.
• When you’re travelling, take your sense of smell on a
journey too, from the minute the plane doors open.
• Break the habit of buying the same flowers, and select
them for their fragrance as much as for their visual beauty.
• Overcome ‘olfactory habituation’ – ie when your nose
becomes overfamiliar or tired of an odour and zones out.
For instance, you rarely sense the individual ‘smell of
home’ until you have been away and open the door
afresh. If you’ve become desensitised to your favourite
perfume, switch to the body lotion, which smells just
different enough to nudge your nose into reappreciation
of the original fragrance. Or wear something new for a
while before you return.
• Try to imagine odours: Christmas trees; mint; the ocean;
bananas; baking bread. The more you engage with your
sense of smell, the more it will reward you in the
presence of amazing aromas.
• Smell fragrances in the dark. Either spray them onto
blotters, turning out the light and tuning in, or just wear
different fragrances to bed. It’s a wonderful way to
refocus on their character – and to dream.
BEFORE YOU HIT THE STORE
• Plan your shopping trip when you can allow yourself
time to savour the experience, and go as unencumbered
as possible. If you have lots of bags to keep putting down
and picking up, it spoils any sense of freedom.
• Roja Dove’s sage advice is: “Never arrange to go
perfume shopping with a friend. It’s such a personal
purchase, and you have to be very strong-willed to
Credits TK Images
ignore your friend’s opinions.”
• Download the new iPerfumer app onto your iPhone,
devised by the Swiss fragrance- and flavour-creation house
Givaudan. Based on your input, a personal profile is created
 that cross-references with preferences from the iPerfumer
In the same way that a cocktail user community to shortlist best-suited perfumes.

dress worn with biker boots can have • Read reviews in magazines and on perfume blogs
beforehand, and compile a list of those fragrances that

a devastatingly off-kilter charm, • intrigue you most.

Be aware if you’re in any kind of transitory phase or

unexpected coalitions of under stress. While there’s nothing to stop you shopping
for a fragrance – indeed, it can be the perfect treat –

character and cologne can rather than search for your signature scent, think in
terms of a mood-morpher: something that instils a sense

prove provocative, too • of contemplative calm, or inspires or thrills.

Think about whether the next fragrance you buy needs
to be occasion-relevant. The essence that may ignite
desire under the duvet may induce only ire at a Michelin-
starred restaurant or a migraine at the theatre.
• Don’t cook with or eat lots of spicy food or garlic the day
before, as their scent can linger on your skin.
• If you’re wearing a sweater or coat, make sure it doesn’t
have a veil of already-worn fragrance clinging to it.
Having a neutral fabric close at hand is also useful,
because smelling something like wool between fragrance
sampling helps clear the nose.

HOW TO SHOP FOR A SCENT

• Select in your mind the kind of outfit you would tend to
wear with your new fragrance to help you judge if the ‘fit’
feels right.
• “It sounds obvious, but don’t wear your usual scent or body
lotion,” says Dove. “You need virgin skin to test fragrance.”
• Go into the store armed with a pen, then spray between
five and 10 scents you want to sample onto blotters (any
more and your nose will suffer from fatigue). Note the
names of the fragrances on each, then leave the
department and find somewhere quiet to sit.
• Turn the names away so you’re not influenced by the
brand, and then smell two. Ask yourself, ‘Out of these two,
which do I prefer?’ Eliminate one and continue the process
until you are left with just two. You can reintroduce one
more if you were really torn during the initial process.
• Go back to the counters and test on your skin. The crook
of your elbow and inner forearm are good places (don’t
rub your wrists together – friction alters the way the
fragrance develops). Then go away and live with them
for a while.
• Wait at least an hour before you reach conclusions.
Fragrances change and develop. The top notes, which
are made up of more volatile ingredients, characterise
Monique Lhuillier the fragrance’s initial burst but evaporate rapidly
dress from a
– between five and 30 minutes. Middle notes that are
selection; Shaun
Leane 18kt white the ‘heart’ of the fragrance can take up to half an hour
gold, white diamond to develop, while the base notes, which linger the
and morganite ring
£3,425; Baccarat longest and ‘hold’ the other ingredients, only truly
bottle £950 unfurl after the heart notes have revealed themselves.

BEFORE YOU MAKE THAT PURCHASE

• Natural oils in your skin trap the oils in perfume, so if you
have dry skin, fragrances won’t last so well. This is where
using a matching body lotion can really help with staying
power. Eau de parfum and parfum will last longer than
eau de toilette because they have higher concentrations
of perfume oils.
• Where will you be wearing the fragrance? Remember,
humidity intensifies perfume, heat makes it evaporate
more quickly, whereas it lasts longer in cool weather. f
FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

Your Own
ACCORD
Identifying the fragrance family – be it citrus, floral, fruity,
CITRUS

woody or spicy – that you’re repeatedly drawn to can help

to narrow down the abundance of choice available. On
sampling Guerlain’s Mitsouko, for example, you might not
immediately realise that it falls into the fruit family of
fragrances. Mitsouko was the first fragrance to include a
non-citrus fruit note; it was the original peachy chypre.
Although this doesn’t mean wearers of Mitsouko will like
every fruity fragrance going, they might also, for example,
like the fig notes in Annick Goutal’s Ninfeo Mio; devotees
of Jo Malone’s new Oud & Bergamot cologne may be
drawn to the woody notes in Yves Saint Laurent’s Elle. The
spectrum within each family is like variations on the Little
Black Dress. There might be one that’s perfect for work, FLORAL
one that you’d wear to dinner with friends, and another
that’s ideal date material. Below are some perfumes listed
within their families. If any of your signature scents are
among them, chances are you’ll like their ‘siblings’ as well...

FRUITY
CITRUS
Acqua di Parma Bergamotto di Calabria, 120ml, £50 FRUITY
Dior Escale à Portofino, 125ml, £70, exclusive to Harrods
Pucci Vivara Acqua 330, 30ml, £30
Calyx, 100ml, £65

FLORAL
Guerlain Idylle eau de parfum, 100ml, £79.50
Stella McCartney, 100ml, £59.50
Estée Lauder Beyond Paradise, 100ml, £66
Dior Diorissimo, 100ml, £68

WOODY
FRUITY
Guerlain Mitsouko, 75ml, £68
Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio, 100ml, £73
Chanel Chance eau Tendre, 100ml, £60
Cartier Délices de Cartier eau de toilette, 100ml, £71

WOODY SPICY
Jo Malone Oud & Bergamot cologne, 100ml, £80
Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman, 50ml, £68,
exclusive to Harrods
Serge Lutens Arabie, 50ml, £64 HAIR Mellissa Brown
Yves Saint Laurent Elle, 90ml, £62 at Soho Management
MAKE-UP Phyllis Cohen
SPICY at dwmanagement.co.uk using
Narciso Rodriguez for Her, 100ml, £70 Shu Uemura
BEAUTY ASSISTANT
Prada Amber, 80ml, £65
Magdalena Siwicka
Miller Harris Vetiver Bourbon, 100ml, £110
MODEL Line Gost
Sisley Eau de Sisley 3, 100ml, £92
RETOUCHING (MODEL) Vahakn
Vorperian at Happy Finish
UNISEX UNISEX
Tom Ford White Suede, 50ml, £115
The Perfume Diaries,
Hermès Voyage d’Hermès, 100ml, £75.50 an exhibition of perfume
Diptyque Vetyverio, 100ml, £65 from ancient times to the
Creed Silver Mountain Water, 75ml, £123 modern day, runs from
Available from Beauty Apothecary, Cosmetics and 28th August to 2nd October
Perfumery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com on the Fourth Floor
men’s designerwear g r o u n d flo o r a d r i a n p h ot o g r a p h e d b y j u e r g e n t e l l e r
 SCENTS of the CENTURY
A worldwide authority on fragrance and its history, haute perfumer Roja Dove selects
the olfactory milestones that have shaped modern perfumery. By FLEUR FRUZZA
In 1882 a perfumer named Paul Parquet, co-owner Gamine femininity flourished in the 1920s, along with The latter half of the ’40s was about liberty. In 1946,
of Houbigant perfumes, created the fragrance the unstructured designs of Coco Chanel. In 1921 Schiaparelli launched Le Roy Soleil in a bottle designed
Fougére Royale, which used oakmoss, geranium, Chanel commissioned a perfumer called Ernest Beaux by her friend Salvador Dalí. A year later, Balmain created
bergamot and synthetic coumarin; Houbigant’s use to create a scent; he gave her 10 choices in bottles a fragrance called Vent Vert, an olfactory suggestion of
of synthetics laid the path for modern perfumery. numbered 1 through 5 and 20 through 24. Beau had a fresh wind at the end of WWII. In 1947, Christian Dior
Seven years later, as the Eiffel Tower was being been playing around with aldehydes and was nervous revolutionised fashion with his New Look, and released
built, Aimé Guerlain created Jicky, which also of them. But as Chanel smelled each one, she stopped his first fragrance, Miss Dior. It launched in a Baccarat
used synthetic odourants and was widely heralded at No. 5 and said ‘this is my scent’. She believed a flacon in red, white and blue editions – suggesting
as the first ‘modern’ perfume. woman should smell like a woman, not a flower. Legend the allied Tricouleur, Stars and Stripes and Union
has it that she never smelled 20 through 24. This was Jack flags. Towards the end of the decade, Nina Ricci
also a decade of hedonism and the Orient, both of launched the ‘simple’ formula that was L’Air du Temps,
which were captured in Guerlain’s Shalimar in 1925. one of which still sells every five seconds today.

1880s 1920s 1940s

1900s 1930s 1950s
The 1950s were America’s
time to shine. The person
that really came to the fore
in this decade was Estée
Lauder. In 1952, Lauder
changed the way women
1912’s Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant is considered In 1930 Jean Patou created his fragrance Joy, which thought about fragrance
one of the most important perfumes ever made. It was designed to lift people’s spirits after the Great with Youth Dew. The scent
perfected the structure of rose, ylang ylang, vanilla, Depression. It was made with carefully sourced started out as a concentrated
jasmine, and sandalwood, and became the blueprint ingredients, and at the time became the most costly bath oil, which a woman
for a perfect floral. During WWI, women took on fragrance in the world. But Elsa Schiaparelli’s could treat herself to
the roles of men, and with this came a new boyish Shocking was the defining fragrance of the 1930s. without having to wait for
femininity. In 1917 François Coty created Chypre, The flacon was a woman’s torso, which was based on it to be given to her as a
which was avant-garde, as it contained masculine the tailor’s dummy Schiaparelli used when designing gift, which was the case
materials like vetiver in a feminine scent. In 1919 clothes for Mae West. As well as being provocative, with perfume at the time.
Guerlain created Mitsouko, considered one of the Shocking was the first fragrance created by a Suddenly, women were in
most perfectly balanced perfume formulas ever. manufacturer, and not an in-house perfumery. control of their fragrance.

 harrods.com

A new type of freedom and liberalism marked the
’60s. Wisps of incense and patchouli made it into
perfumery. One of the defining scents of the decade
was not a perfume at all, but Alyssa Ashley’s musk
oil, which defined a generation. And blazing a trail
for women’s rights, in 1960 Hélène Rochas became
the first woman to run a luxury French company.
She marked this by launching a perfume that was
named – in no uncertain terms – Madame Rochas.
1960s 1980s 2000s
1970s 1990s 2010s
The ’70s was the decade of the Cosmo reader. For
her, Charles Revson of Revlon created Charlie
in 1973, which changed perfumery thanks to its
accessibility. In 1971, Yves Saint Laurent created
the equally accessible Rive Gauche. Laurent
believed that the Parisian establishment was
With thanks to Roja Dove
becoming too bourgeois, so he relocated from
the right to the left bank – the Rive Gauche –
and named both the fragrance as well as his
ready-to-wear line after it. He put the fragrance in
a futuristic metal bottle – an allusion to spacecraft
– that was a revolution in perfume packaging.
harrods.com
The ’80s were a decade of consumerism and status
symbols. With the launch of Giorgio Beverly Hills in
1981, perfume lost much of its subtlety. Suddenly,
women flaunted big hair, big shoulders and big logos
that seemed to say ‘this is what I’m wearing; I can
afford this’. Both Giorgio Beverly Hills and Dior’s 1985
fragrance Poison encapsulated the spirit of ’80s
decadence; both were such omnipresent fragrances,
they were actually banned from many restaurants
around the world. But the person who really embodied
the spirit of the ’80s was Calvin Klein. His fragrances
celebrated street fashion, the American dream, youth
and desirability. Obsession was the first, in 1985,
followed by Eternity in 1988.
After the ’80s recession, consumerism was considered
vulgar. Green issues, recycling, conscience, and a new
spirituality were working their way into the mainstream.
By the early ’90s there was a new raw material working
its way into perfumery – an aqueous accord. People
thought it smelled of the ocean and therefore escapism
from the stresses of city life. The first of these was Aramis
New West for her, followed by Calvin Klein Escape in
1991 and L’Eau D’Issey in 1992. The idea of escapism
also extended to childhood, with the launch of many
sweet fragrances. Thierry Mugler gave us the candyfloss
note – the smell of the funfair – with Angel in 1995.
FRAGRANCE SPECIAL
The noughties were the time of the celebrity and the
voyeur. Following the success of Elizabeth Taylor’s
White Diamonds – the bestselling celebrity fragrance
of all time – the ’00s saw Jennifer Lopez, Céline Dion
and others launch their own scents. But by the middle
of the decade, there was certain a backlash to stars’
dalliances in the perfume world. Roja Dove opened his
Haute Parfumerie – the world’s first – which was all
about creativity, quality and bespoke service, an
indication of what was to come in the 2010s. Houses
began producing collections: Guerlain was ahead of
this the with Aqua Allegoria; Roja Dove released his
Trilogy; and Chanel followed with Les Exclusifs.
The 2010s are a decade of being able to choose
something unique and personal. When Chloé launched
Eau de Fleurs in February 2010, it was not a single
perfume. There was a choice: Capucine, Lavande or
Néroli. The most important brand of recent times,
however, has been Tom Ford. Ford uses high-grade
natural materials, which means the youth market
is being exposed to what real orange blossom and
patchouli smell like. This return to nature had not
been seen in the fragrance world for a long time and
was worked in a modern, non-retrospective way that
has made Tom Ford a critical and commercial success.

NEWS MISS MAQUILLAGE
Goes Berry Picking
When I saw the backstage Polaroids from the
AW10 shows, I breathed a sigh of relief. Ladies,
this season is going to be easy

“What keeps the because AW10’s make-up, like its

womenswear, is pared down, ladylike,
berry shades new and entirely wearable. The look is
is texture; it’s single, statement pieces
always texture. that are both modern and
I like voluptuous, timeless. No turquoise eyes
I like edible. And with scarlet mouths, and not
a mustard-yellow lip in sight.
I love the nude eye”
NICOLA ROBERTS Mary Greenwell,
Instead we’re left to choose
from a rainbow of beautiful

Launches Dainty Doll Chanel Make-up Artist berry shades in updated

As Girls Aloud takes time out to try different projects,
Nicola Roberts is turning her hand to cosmetics. She
talks to Harrods Magazine about her line, Dainty Doll.
The Dainty Doll woman has a pale complexion and
she loves my make-up because it has been specially
formulated to bring out the best in her fair skin. But
the range also works on other complexions. Lilac is
big right now, and our lilac blusher goes perfectly
with light or dark skin, as does the red Saucy Sailor
lipstick, which works the ’50s trend.
textures that range
I have tried to bring as much common sense from a tint at Versace to full
to the brand as possible. The Dainty Doll range glossy blackberry coverage at
is predominantly natural, with anti-inflammatory Missoni (top right). At Dolce &
ingredients to help problem skin while covering it. Gabbana, raspberry-coloured
To me, beauty is something that comes from lips were slightly uneven in
within. I have friends who are the loveliest people coverage, making for a natural,
but who would not be classed as beautiful, but I see worn-in-but-still-polished look
them as stunning girls who have something special. (right). The Givenchy lips,
From £10, exclusive to Harrods. Available from meanwhile, were like a cluster
Way In, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com of super-shiny cranberries. And
what they all had in common
is that they were paired with

NEW FOR EYES understated eyes. Natural brows,

minimal mascara, or a light
dusting of complementary berry

1 Restore eyes with Givenchy’s black sea algae formula

Le Soin Noir Yeux. 15ml, £117, exclusive to Harrods
eye shadow is all you need. So,
armed with confidence that I can
pull off this look, I go foraging for

2 Lift, tighten and smooth with Dr Sebagh Eye

Primer Lift. 15ml, £48 berries. Burberry Beauty’s Bright Plum
lipstick is perfect for fairer skin tones that

3 Shiseido’s latest Future Solution LX cream

is intense care for eyes and lips. 15ml, £100
Available from Beauty Apothecary and Cosmetics,
need a deep berry pink to be blue-based, while
Dolce & Gabbana’s lipstick in Orchid is a notch
darker to take the look into evening. For those
Ground Floor; and harrods.com who dare, Dolce & Gabbana’s Amethyst is
a deep, dark plum, which can work with both
alabaster and olive complexions. Remember
THE LATEST IN LUXE All the anti-ageing potency of that where dark lips go, lip conditioner must
La Prairie’s Skin Caviar has been channelled into its new brightening range, precede. Exfoliate lips to rid them of dead
White Caviar Illuminating Système. The three-step skincare system comprises skin. Then use a small amount of balm and
the concentrated Serum, Cream and Eye Serum. The power of three results work the lipstick on top of this. For light berry
in a more luminous and even skin tone free of age spots and micro-scars. stains, try a repeated dabbing motion rather
La Prairie White Caviar Illuminating Serum 30ml, £260, Cream 50ml, than full-on sweeps, and blend with
£260, and Eye Serum 15ml, £150. Available from Cosmetics, Ground your little finger to achieve soft
Floor; and harrods.com edges. For something stronger,
apply lip liner in a matching
shade before lipstick so that the

Dior Collections THE NATURAL strong colour doesn’t bleed. Then

stand up straight, smooth down
Perfume is edging closer to fashion with the birth of As well as being the European holiday destination, your Prada pencil skirt and enjoy
fragrance collections. In 2009, Dior launched Croatia has inspired a new beauty line. Occo’s the return to simple, refined
three scents in its Les Escales Collection – the Dalmacija No.1 range features the natural scent glamour. –By Fleur Fruzza
olfactory equivalent of a resort line. A year on of roses, violets and pears found in Croatia. The
Dolce & Gabbana The Lipstick in
and Dior launches Les Creations de Monsieur Radiance Boost Mask combines
Orchid £20; Givenchy Prisme
Dior, a ‘couture’ collection of fragrances. This these with shea butter and
Yeux in Purple Show £33; Burberry
month, Diorama is added to the collection – vitamins A and E.
Beauty Lip Cover in Prune £22,
a spicy chypre originally released in 1949. 50ml, £30, exclusive
exclusive to Harrods. Available
Diorama 100ml, £68, exclusive to Harrods. to Harrods. Available
from Cosmetics, Ground Floor;
Available from Cosmetics and Perfumery, from Beauty Apothecary,
and harrods.com
Ground Floor Ground Floor; and
harrods.com

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 Knoll is the owner of all the rights in the 250LC Barcelona® Chair. The Barcelona® Chair is a registered trade mark of Knoll.

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The Bed Studio, Third Floor


ON THE
SCENT
Where do you start when you create a new fragrance?
The perfumers behind some of the world’s greatest scents
describe the journey behind their passionate creations
By JAN MASTERS
ESTÉE LAUDER
Youth Dew, Beautiful and Private Collection
By Estée, Evelyn and Aerin Lauder
When she was a little girl, Aerin
Lauder was fascinated by the
fragrances that always seemed
to surround her grandmother,
Estée Lauder (left): they stood
next to her bed, sat on her desk
and nestled in her handbag.
Aerin, who is now Senior Vice President and
Creative Director for the brand, remembers
visiting her grandmother’s home in Palm Beach
and being fascinated by the ever-present
diminutive lab samples. She learned how to tell
a gardenia note from a tuberose as naturally as
another child might play with building bricks or
try to figure out how jigsaw pieces fit together.
Karyn Khoury, the Lauder ‘nose’ for 28 years, has
worked with three generations of Lauder women
– Estée, Evelyn (Mrs Lauder’s daughter-in-law and
Senior Corporate Vice President) and Aerin, who has
created her own line of Private Collection fragrances.
Khoury remembers those battalions of lab bottles,
too, particularly on the occasion of her job interview.
“I was a young, shaking girl when I walked into
Mrs Estée Lauder’s huge corner office. There she
was, behind her desk, beautifully dressed. From
a ton of samples, she picked one up and asked me
what I thought of it. I smelled it and it was awful.
Awful. So I stood there for a minute, envisioning the
career that might have been and said, ‘It’s terrible’.
There was silence. And then she said, ‘You’re right.
I wanted to see if you would tell me the truth.’”
Khoury’s course was set. “I’ve learned so much
Map background iStock; rose Getty Images; chamomile Alamy
from all the Lauder women, particularly how to allow
time for the creative journey to progress. And I
always remember how Estée never lost the ability
to connect with her consumer. For instance, when
she launched Youth Dew in 1953, fragrance was
considered a luxury gift, not a self-purchase. So she
presented it as a bath oil that could double as a skin
perfume, cleverly removing guilt from the purchase,
meaning women could buy it for themselves. Once
established, she introduced the eau de parfum.
It was the first American fragrance to become
a worldwide phenomenon.”
Youth Dew revolutionised American perfumery
and has sold more than 250 million bottles to date.
FRAGRANCE SPECIAL
A legendary exotic Oriental, its top notes of
Bulgarian rose, jonquil, lavender, chamomile and
bergamot introduce a heart of jasmine, muguet,
ylang-ylang and carnation that melts into a warm,
musky backdrop. It smells like the olfactory equivalent
of that moment you flip through a family photo album
and realise how beautiful the women in the pictures
really were. And how colourful their lives were, to the
point where yours seems positively tame.
Another Lauder milestone fragrance is Beautiful.
“It took about seven years to create,” explains
Khoury. “The project started with Estée and was
finished with Evelyn. It was designed to be the most
feminine and romantic fragrance of all time. Estée’s
vision was to fill the air with the bouquet of 1,000
fresh flowers and, to that end, it has an extremely
high concentration of natural essential oils.”
A rich, lush, paradisiacal perfume, it was a brave
move to make at the time, given it was markedly
different to the overtly sexy fragrances that
celebrated the consumption of the mid-’80s. Khoury
recounts how Evelyn believed in Beautiful utterly.
And how right she was. To this day, it remains one of
the world’s bestselling fragrances. Vibrant and
voluptuous, it sparkles with top notes such as
mandarin, marigold and cassis, and opens to a
full-bodied cast of feminine florals that includes
jasmine and orange flower, with a touch of thyme
and sage, basking on a backdrop of spicy woods.
Such a powerhouse of heritage can’t fail to drive
an equally dynamic devotion to evolution, and
Aerin’s first fragrant creation, Private Collection
Tuberose Gardenia, represents the perfect union of
both these ideals. “When my grandmother launched
the first Private Collection in 1973, her idea was to
give the world a special fragrance she had created
originally just for herself and a few friends,” explains
Aerin. “My fragrance redefines Estée’s idea in a very
special way. It’s my tribute to her and the love we
shared for these magnificent white flowers.”
What’s striking about this fragrance is that, for all
its intoxicating glamour, it is in possession of such
Above, from left Evelyn and Aerin Lauder;
polished purity – a sincere singularity that sings clear Estée Lauder Youth Dew eau de parfum
rather than loud. Even the linear bottle is a faithful 65ml, £30, Beautiful eau de parfum 75ml,
reflection of Aerin’s vision of luxury, which is, quite £55 and Private Collection Tuberose
Gardenia eau de parfum 75ml, £84
simply, simplicity itself. f

 SISLEY
Eau du Soir
By Countess Isabelle d’Ornano
“She wears jeans with
expensive holes.” These are
the words of one poetic poster
on perfume blog Now Smell
This about his lover, who wears
Sisley’s Eau du Soir. A
big-hitting chypre, Eau du Soir
is one of those fragrances that rarely elicits a
shoulder-shrug as a response, although one could
easily imagine that the woman who wears the
potent potion has the confidence to shoulder-
shrug mentally many, many times a day, while all
about her are losing their heads.
The curtain opener is an effervescent burst of
hesperidic notes – grapefruit and mandarin with a
splash of juniper – that is reminiscent of sitting at
some exotic bar, just as the sun is dropping like
a molten medallion in a marmalade sky, and you’re
watching your bartender slice citrus fruits for a
killer gin and tonic.
A few minutes in, the hesperidic notes start to
quieten, and the floral notes unfurl: jasmine, rose,
ylang ylang, iris, lily of the valley and, the star of the
show, Syringa (lilac). The whole bouquet is reigned
back from girlishness by the piquancy of pepper and
clove. It’s then that the skin starts to smell like the
wearer has just exited a very expensive hotel
bathroom in the Med.
Next, the patchouli and oakmoss kick in, forming
an allegiance with the green top notes as they
evaporate and the darker base notes as they
deepen. Later, much later, there’s amber and musk.
“I wore this perfume for at least two years before
it was launched,” reveals Countess Isabelle d’Ornano,
Company Vice-President of exclusive skincare, make-up
and perfume house Sisley, which her husband, Count
Hubert d’Ornano, founded in 1976. It was he who
wished to create a personal fragrance, just for his
wife, and they worked with a perfumer from Givaudan
to realise that dream.
“When I used to wear it, so many people would
ask me what it was – especially men, who would
often turn to their wife or girlfriend and say,
‘You really should have this perfume, because
there’s something very special about it’.” In 1990
she decided that, as it was provoking such interest,
Sisley should release it as one of the company’s
fragrances. It is still the bestselling perfume for the

brand. “Even now, every time I am in a hotel
lift, a man almost always asks, ‘Who is it who
smells so lovely?’. Invariably, it is Eau du Soir
they have noticed.
“The inspiration for the fragrance was the
gardens of Generalife in the Alhambra palace
in Granada,” continues the Countess. “I would
often visit, because my brother’s family lives near
there.” In fact, the Countess spent her childhood
in Spain because her mother, Krystyna Radziwill
Lubomirska, a Radziwill princess, married her father,
Count Potocki, who became the Polish ambassador
to the country.
“Walking around those gardens in the evening,
there is an extraordinary smell of Syringa flowers,
which release their scent in the evening. And this
is where the name of the perfume comes from – it’s
not because it should be worn in the evening. The
flowers bloom in early May and, although there is
a profusion of them, because their flowering time
is so short, their scent feels very precious.”
The Countess says she enjoyed working with
Polish sculptor Bronislaw Krzysztof to design the
cap. “I wanted a feminine, sophisticated and artistic
cap on a very classic bottle,” she says. And each
Christmas she personally oversees the creation
of a limited-edition Eau du Soir bottle. This year,
a duo will be available in black and white, artfully
splattered with contrasting black, red and white
pigments and presented in two shimmering Eau
du Soir Black and Eau du Soir White box sets to
highlight the monochromatic bottles.
“I was inspired by Anish Kapoor’s recent
exhibition at London’s Royal Academy of Arts,
and the red paint that was propelled onto the walls
by a cannon [in Kapoor’s 2008-09 installation
Map background iStock; flower and garden photos Getty
Shooting into the Corner, an air compressor fired
Images; flower illustration Bridgeman Art Library
chunks of wax against the gallery walls and floor].
The idea comes from there. The result is much
simpler, but each bottle is handcrafted and,
therefore, different. You will not have the same
splashes on any two bottles.”
It’s a contemporary take that suits a fragrance
that still smells so modern, while simultaneously
reviving the spirit of the great French tradition
of timeless classics. It’s elegant. It’s super-luxe. From left Sisley Eau du Soir eau de
It smells expensive. In short, when this chypre sails, parfum 100ml, £139 and Eau du Soir
limited edition black flacon 100ml, £162
there’s no question it’s a luxury yacht.
 JO MALONE
English Pear & Freesia
By Christine Nagel
“If I had a magic wand, I would
love to have the power to
change matter,” declares
perfumer Christine Nagel.
“For instance, to transform
hard wood into something soft
and supple. It’s like when you
first buy a leather jacket, it’s stiff and yet two
years later, both the colour and texture have
changed and it becomes easy to wear, even with
a dress. That kind of transition excites me. I love
to translate tantalising textures and abstract
ideas into fragrance.”
Which is why when the Jo Malone Creative Studio
in London, headed up by Global General Manager
Dominic De Vetta, asked the striking, statuesque
Swiss-Italian to collaborate with them in capturing
‘autumn in a bottle’, Nagel found it such an
intriguing project.
“Dominic sent me John Keats’ famous poem
To Autumn, which begins: ‘Season of mists and
mellow fruitfulness…’, and a picture of a bicycle
leaning lazily against an orchard wall. That was all.
A very open brief,” recalls Nagel. “But then so much
in life can be a source of inspiration to me. It could
be a painting, a fashion show… although it needn’t
be exotic. It can also be little, everyday things like a
fantastic meal. The way a person moves, or smiles.
A solitary flower in the middle of bare concrete.”
Nagel decided to base the new cologne around
the deliciously different King William pear, set in
Map background iStock; flower photos Getty Images; flower illustration Alamy
a bouquet of fresh, white freesias and laced with a
liquid note of quince, a hint of steely rhubarb and
a whisper of sweetly balsamic patchouli. “I wanted
to capture the pear when it’s still a little green and
sharp, not too honeyed. That moment when you
bite through the crisp, crunchy skin, releasing the
juiciness within,” she says.
The result is English Pear & Freesia. Evocative
(of England, when the last rays of buttery summer
sunshine start to shiver in clearer, cooler air);
elegant (in that it’s ravishingly radiant yet alluringly
restrained); and unexpectedly edgy (pear being
such an unusual note to usher centre stage in a
fragrant composition, particularly in so sheer and
fresh an expression).
This sparkling cologne reflects perfectly the
heritage of Jo Malone, a quintessentially British
brand that is instantly recognisable by its iconic
cream packaging with black grosgrain ribbon, and
renowned for its contemporary scents with
surprising twists. Those fascinating little touches
of the unexpected and enigmatic that, at first,
captivate, then keep you hooked.
“Christine shares with us the belief that, like
great art, there is beauty and genius in simplicity,”
says De Vetta. “In this, we’re continuing to honour
the legacy of Jo Malone herself. Although she
retired from the company in 2006, her philosophy
– to place the integrity of the finest ingredients on
a pedestal – remains: to ensure that a grapefruit
note sings with grapefruit and a rose note sings
with rose. And always to create with passion,
valuing the craft of the master perfumer.”
There’s no doubt Nagel is valued. She has worked
on projects such as Miss Dior Chérie and alongside
the highly creative perfumer Francis Kurkdjian
on Narciso Rodriguez for Her. She has also won
numerous prestigious awards, including Perfumer
of the Year in 2009 at CosmétiqueMag’s Beauty
Oscars in Paris.
Based in Paris with her husband and three
children, Nagel is known to the fragrance
cognoscenti as a bit of a risk-taker when it comes
to the choosing and blending of her perfume
ingredients. Yet she started out in the rigid field
of chromatology, a scientific discipline that
required her to deconstruct finished perfumes
into their component parts.
“That job gave me the desire to look for new
accords, new associations,” she says, adding that
she is an intuitive perfumer. This particular
sensibility is in splendid synch with Jo Malone’s
philosophy of Fragrance Combining; each of the
house’s scents – sublime worn solo – can also be
layered with other Jo Malone fragrances. From
the 20-strong ‘arc’ of colognes, woody scents
can be combined with florals, or spices with fruity
fragrances, for endlessly varied effects. It is
a method that puts the wearer at the heart
of the creative process.
“When I work, I am always instinctive,” concludes
Nagel. “Because perfumery is not intellectual –
it’s emotional. It’s about something really deep and
intimate. And when fragrance elicits an emotion, Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia
Cologne 100ml, £68
that’s when the adventure begins.”f

 DIPTYQUE
Eau Duelle
By Fabrice Pellegrin
“I don’t like insipid perfume that
everybody will wear. I like
perfumery that is daring and
has something to say,” says
Fabrice Pellegrin, the nose who
has created Diptyque’s newest
fragrance, Eau Duelle, a scented
homage to that most venerable ingredient, vanilla.
The dark, slender pod from an orchid, vanilla
seduced adventurers and conquistadors centuries
ago, and long frustrated would-be cultivators outside
its native Mexico because they failed to understand
its symbiotic relationship with a local species of bee
that was happy to pollinate it.
Once a way to replicate the pollination process by
hand was found, the world was able to lap up more
vanilla, although it was still expensive. Eventually, it
became a ubiquitous flavouring and a fragrant note,
frequently deemed uncomplicatedly cute, an image
Pellegrin was keen to reframe. “In perfumery, vanilla
has often been treated in a rather vulgar way – very
obvious. We wanted the vanilla to be a noble
component again. We didn’t want it to be too foody;
we didn’t want a sticky, gooey vanilla.”
Success! Spritz on Eau Duelle and instantly your
expectations are confounded. In a good way. In a
great way. It’s as sharp as it is sweet, as dark as it is
light, as fascinating as it is familiar. It doesn’t, as so
many vanilla fragrances do, lead you straight to the
kitchen to lull you into memories of childhood; of
small fingers dipping into bowls of fluffy cake
mixture. Rather, it takes you to tropical destinations
– to lush rainforests where long lianas tangle their
way through towering trees, and to markets, where
spices dry in sun-baked streets.
“What’s difficult about working with vanilla is that
it’s considered to be a feminine scent, whereas I
wanted to build a vanilla to suit a man or a woman.”
This notion of duality mirrors how Pellegrin wears
fragrance on his own skin: “I’m not faithful to any
one scent – I wear men’s and women’s.”
The son of a perfumer, he was immersed in the art
of perfumery from birth, growing up in the fragrance
capital of the world, Grasse. But almost as formative
to his career is the fact that he’s a passionate
sportsman. He considers the values and philosophies
that sport requires – energy, practice, patience,
endurance and humility, especially the need to tame

one’s ego and the ability to start over after a failure
– to be lessons that serve him well in his profession.
He has worked on many fragrances, including
Diptyque’s Tam Dao. “I notice that the perfumes I
produce now are often orientated towards the
Eastern and Oriental,” he continues. “Sensual, rich
notes of woods, spices and vanilla. And while Eau
Duelle certainly has a very vanilla-y background, it
contrasts with spices that are more masculine, fresh
and almost bubbly.
“We also built it up with a lighter Firnat vanilla
that comes from the Bourbon pod, but the way
it is distilled is different. It’s whiter and lighter.
Again, there’s a duality between what you could
call the ‘dark’ vanilla and the ‘white’ vanilla,
existing in the same perfume and coming from
the same vanilla pod.”
During the creative process, Pellegrin had a
journey in mind. “It’s an imaginary one in which the
vanilla is travelling along a global spice trail, picking
Map background iStock; photos Getty Images; flower illustration (top left) Alamy; flower illustration (top right) The Art Archive
up dashes of cardamom, saffron, pink peppercorn,
juniper and others.” It’s also joined by intoxicating
ingredients such as cypress, vetiver, elemi resin,
black tea and calamus, an Indian reed that was used
by Tibetans to meditate with, and which Chinese
shamans claimed granted everlasting life.
Such a voyage of olfactory discovery dovetails
with Diptyque’s distinctive heritage. When interior
designer Christiane Gautrot, painter Desmond
Knox-Leet and set designer Yves Coueslant teamed
up in 1961 to open a store at 34 Boulevard Saint-
Germain in Paris to showcase their fabric designs,
the store gradually became a chic bazaar offering
unexpected pieces the trio would bring back from
their travels. They became self-confessed
“Merchants of Everything”, deciding to launch their
own candles and eaux de toilette, inspired by
exploration off the beaten track.
Pellegrin was very particular about where
Diptyque trekked to source its vanilla. “We smelled
vanilla from all over the world. From Tahiti, it’s like
honey. From Guinea it’s like caramel. In the end, we
decided to use a vanilla from Réunion, the French
island next to Mauritius, because it’s very sombre
and dense and there was something woody, smoky
and spicy about it. There’s a lot to read into it.”
Indeed, such passion and tenacity has ensured Diptyque Eau Duelle eau
de toilette 100ml, £65
Diptyque’s Eau Duelle is far from an open book.
 CHANTECAILLE
Kalimantan, Vetyver and Pétales
By Sylvie Chantecaille and Pierre Negrin
“Pétales. I am in love with this
fragrance,” reveals Sylvie
Chantecaille, founder of the
eponymous luxury skincare,
cosmetics and fragrance brand.
Now launching a trio of bold and
bewitching fragrances, Pétales
stars gardenia, jasmine and tuberose, the white
flowers she grows in the garden of her East
Hampton home in New York.
“As soon as I smell gardenia and jasmine, I’m
transported back to long vacations in the South of
France, to the great parties and balls I used to go to
where women would wear couture dresses. Where
gardenias would float on pools and you’d bring them
home with you, finding them in your bathroom the
next morning. It was so dreamy,” she sighs.
Chantecaille admits that when she asked perfumer
Pierre Negrin, who has worked on creations such as
Tom Ford’s Black Orchid, to create this white flower
fragrance, it was going to be a challenge. “Actually,
it was a recipe for disaster,” she laughs. “Although
I love gardenias, fragrances that feature them tend
to be so loud they make me run away.”
Negrin was undaunted. “Gardenia doesn’t really
exist as an essential oil so I had to recreate it. This is
my interpretation of the freshly cut flower. I wanted
to capture the scent as it rises in the air. Then I
blended it with natural tuberose and jasmine. All such
Map background iStock; photos Getty Images; flower illustration Bridgeman Art Library
noble flowers.” The result is the essence of glamour.
Clearly, the duo worked well together. “I would
create something and then Sylvie would wear it for a
while and report back,” recalls Negrin. “The fact she
lived with each version for a while was important.
You need to do that. It’s like when you buy an item of
clothing. You may look at it in the window, you love
it, you buy it, then you wear it for the first time…and
feel ridiculous. It can be the same with fragrance, so
you need to live with it and pick up comments that
give you the guidance you need to rebalance.”
The second fragrance, Kalimantan, is an
altogether more exotic brew. Its namesake is the
Indonesian province of Borneo – ‘the island in the
clouds’ – and stars patchouli, incense and agarwood.
It was inspired by a novel that is a favourite of
Chantecaille’s, Kalimantaan by C. S. Godshalk.
“I love this book so much I would like to make a
movie of it,” she enthuses. “It’s about an English
adventurer in the late 1830s. I visited the island; it’s
a place of mystery and great depth; of lush, tropical
jungles, rivers, waterfalls and flora and fauna of
amazing diversity. Whenever I wear this fragrance,
I’m there, in that wonderful place.”
“The challenge was to use an ingredient like
patchouli, which is native to Borneo, and blend it in
such a way as to retain the freshness and ensure
the result wasn’t typical or expected,” adds Negrin.
“We wanted something that had a sense of déjà vu,
but was also very different. The key, I think, is the
addition of cistus, thyme and rosemary that give it
an aromatic, herbal edge.”
Negrin says it was a similar challenge shaping
Vetyver, the third of the fragrances, because there are
lots of vetivers on the market and many have a typical
masculine smell. “We brought some lightness and
brightness to the blend and balanced it with woods.”
“I love vetiver fragrances, but those for men didn’t
work on me, so we combined it with citron from Menton,
to open up the beginning, and then added nutmeg and
pepper,” says Chantecaille. “It’s elegantly sunny for
day and becomes discreet, warm and sexy at night.”
A visual and poetic personality, she imagines how
the woman who wears her fragrances might express
herself: the Pétales girl, for instance, is reading
Françoise Sagan’s Bonjour Tristesse (it’s in her bag,
wrapped in an Hermès scarf that belonged to her
mother). In her wardrobe, you’ll find vintage Pucci,
Schiaparelli and Balmain. The lover of Kalimantan is
reading The Lost City of Z by David Grann and adores
her vintage Givenchy kaftan and her Dries van Noten
silk batik trousers. The devotee of Vetyver has her
nose in the latest book by Malcolm Gladwell or a
Picasso biography, and wears Prada and Marni.
“Perfume is the most evocative thing we can
possess,” concludes Chantecaille. “More powerful
than a movie or a book, instantly transporting you
soul, body and baggage. You can even feel quite
secure in this world you have just conjured.” And
there’s no doubt Chantecaille and Negrin have conjured
something rather magical, to the power of three. HMN
Available from Beauty Apothecary, Cosmetics
and Perfumery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Chantecaille Pétales, Vetyver
Jan Masters contributes to The Telegraph and and Kalimantan eaux de parfum
75ml, £145, exclusive to Harrods
Marie Claire

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Les Fleurs
DU MAL
Dangerous, hypnotic, addictive: some flowers
that inspire fragrance are anything but sweet
By TONY MARCUS / Photographer PATRICE D’HOTMAN DE VILLIERS
FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

Givenchy L’Interdit 100ml,

£63.50, part of the Mythical
Collection, which is
exclusive to Harrods


 Robert Piguet
Fracas eau de
parfum 100ml, £95

Tuberose is a flower that

stands for ‘dangerous
pleasures’, as narcotic as
it is overpowering


FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

Boadicea The Victorious

Delirious 100ml, £130,
exclusive to Harrods;
part of the Magnificent 7
Collection

and harrods.com


 BEAUTY

HIGH
Marigay McKee, Fashion and
FIVE
Beauty Director at Harrods,
reveals her top new beauty treats

1. It’s reassuring to know that whatever Estée Lauder

comes up with has been years in the making and is
virtually guaranteed to do a fantastic job. The research
team sources highly unusual ingredients from around
the globe to create breakthrough formulations that deliver
a revolution in skincare. Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-
Correcting Creme uses a combination of black tourmaline
and Lauder’s Life Re-newing Molecules to ‘age-correct’
the skin. The resulting radiant complexion speaks for itself.
Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting
Creme 50ml, £160
2. Smart cosmetics are big news this autumn. None comes
smarter than M2Lashes Eyelash Activating Serum, which
multiplies the eyelashes and extends their growth phase
using a combination of nutritional components, including
vitamin B5 and hyaluronic acid to moisturise and vitamin
B7 to strengthen. It’s the future of beauty. M2Lashes
Eyelash Activating Serum 5ml, £120
3. I love a new brand from abroad, particularly when
it’s got a bit of a cult following. Visoanska Paris is the
brainchild of Elisabeth Visoanska, a Spanish musician
obsessed with finding anti-ageing skincare that met her
strict criteria, ie, high-quality natural ingredients blended
into technologically advanced formulations that lived up
to the hype. Visoanska has discovered all the best science,
craftsmanship and potent ingredients to stimulate cellular
regeneration and ward off the signs of ageing. It’s nature
meets biotechnology. I’m sold. Visoanska Paris from £55
4. Perfectly timed to coincide with our Perfume Diaries
exhibition, Guerlain is launching the seventh fragrance in
its L’Art et la Matière collection. After 181 years and 790
fragrances, Guerlain is the accepted world expert on
perfume alchemy, and this latest scent both draws on the
heritage of the brand as well as an ability to anticipate the
zeitgeist. Tonka Impériale is a woody Oriental based on
Guerlain’s star ingredient, the Venezuelan tonka bean,
which is also at the heart of Guerlain’s all-time bestsellers,
Jicky and Shalimar. Guerlain Tonka Impériale 75ml, £145
5. The fun, free, confident woman who strides out on the
Fendi catwalk each season has been neatly summarised in
the new Fan di Fendi fragrance. Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia
Venturini Fendi’s combined vision for the brand translates
to an olfactory delight that combines pear notes with
peppercorn, blackcurrant and mandarin, and assertive
florals like rose and tuberose. Fendi Fan di Fendi 75ml, £67
All products exclusive to Harrods. Available from
Beauty Apothecary, Cosmetics and Perfumery,
Ground Floor; and harrods.com

 harrods.com
 Discover the Essence of Autumn
English Pear & Freesia is an evocative new fragrance that captures
the scent of just-ripe pears, gathered from the orchard.
Experience our new scent through a complimentary, luxurious Hand & Arm Massage at Harrods.

B e a ut y A p ot hecar y, Ground Floor

 SCENTS OF STYLE First comes the fashion, then comes the fragrance – an elegant distillation
of the heart and soul of every good fashion house. By FLEUR FRUZZA
HALSTON WOMAN AMBER
Warm, sultry notes for high-shine glamour
In some instances, a fragrance might be inspired
by the fluidity of a dress. In others, it could be the
detail in a print or the innate spirit of a collection.
The American brand Halston, however, is possibly
the only fashion house to base its fragrances
entirely on the lifestyle and spirit of its designer:
Roy Halston was one of the earliest proponents
of the cult of celebrity.
“In Roy Halston, I remember a very elegant,
refined and gracious man,” says the current Halston
perfumer Carlos Benaïm. “Early in my career I trained
under Bernard Chant, the man who created the
original Halston fragrance. Bernard was impressed
by the pure class of Halston. He wanted to create
fragrances that would be a combination of elegance
and comfort. I was also impressed by Halston’s style,
his attention to detail and his extravagance. With
Halston, everything was high class.” And does the
influence of Roy Halston remain in the 2010 launch,
Amber? “All the fragrances created at Halston reflect
his intensity, his optimism and, of course, his style.”
Born and raised in Iowa, Roy Halston Frowick
started out as a milliner, propelled to fame for
designing the pillbox hat that Jackie Kennedy wore at

Clockwise from top left Halston Heritage dress; looks from
Halston’s main line for AW10; Roy Halston with his models
in the late ’70s; Sarah Jessica Parker in Halston Heritage;
her husband’s inauguration. As his star rose, Halston
became a pioneer in selling his lifestyle and his
celebrity as his brand. When buying Halston, a woman
wasn’t buying just a shoe, a dress, or indeed a
perfume; she was getting a little piece of the decadent
disco dream world inhabited by Halston, Andy Warhol,
Bianca Jagger and Helmut Newton at their beloved
Studio 54. Like his womenswear designs, his
fragrance came to stand for a lifestyle choice. If
the fashion was super-charged, sexy ’70s glamour,
the fragrance was the olfactory expression of this
that stayed on when the clothes came off.
And such was the success of his collections,
branding, and dream-selling, Halston’s original
fragrance – in a bottle designed by his long-time
model and muse Elsa Peretti – became the second
most successful perfume of all time.
After many years on hiatus, the Halston brand
returned with a much-anticipated bang for AW08
showing a collection that paid homage to the
silhouettes and palette of Halston’s original designs.
The brand has since been gathering momentum
helped along by the launch of Halston Heritage – a
line co-designed with Sarah Jessica Parker and worn
Halston Woman Amber 100ml, £85, exclusive to Harrods;
AW10 looks Catwalking.com; Elsa Peretti Corbis; Halston with models Dustin Pitman; Sarah Jessica Parker Rex Features
Halston muse Elsa Peretti in 1967; the original Halston
fragrance from 1975 in the bottle designed by Peretti
throughout the Sex and the City 2 movie – a spectrum
of fun, frothy, luxe ’70s-inspired dresses. And with
the clothes must come the fragrance. In 2009,
Halston Woman was launched, which retained the
olfactory structure of the ’70s original (along with
the Peretti-designed bottle updated in platinum) and
contained subtle note updates for a new millennium.
Following this is Amber, the latest fragrance from
the house of Halston. At his lab in Grasse, Benaïm
used a state-of-the-art extraction process to gain
the highest quality natural amber. This is combined
with tuberose for a confident central accord, while
musk, white suede and sandalwood create a
seductive base, and aldehydes and mandarin open
the scent. The result is a luxurious perfume of
which Halston himself would have certainly
approved, encased in a gold edition of the Peretti
bottle to reflect its warmth.
“I created Amber the way I see Halston,” Benaïm
continues. ”His vision, but also his style and
personality – creative, bold, uncompromising, and very
stylish. The fragrance had to be an expression of that
unique kind of charisma; it had to be a contemporary
expression of the original Halston perfume.”

MISS PUCCI
The Pucci girl is fresh, fun, sexy and elegant
“What do you think of it? Do you think it’s ’60s?”
asks Laudomia Pucci, Image Director of her
father’s fashion house, as she hands me a bottle
of her new fragrance, Miss Pucci. I wouldn’t have
said so, but apparently a few people have. “If
someone else had done this bottle, nobody would
have said it looks ’60s,” she says. “I hate the
stereotypes of the brand: ‘Pucci is ’60s, prints,
hot colours’. No. Pucci is so much more than that.”
She’s right, of course. Miss Pucci is not ’60s at all.
In fact, the fragrance falls in line with everything that
AW10 looks Catwalking.com; Kate Hudson Getty Images
is new-wave Pucci at the helmsmanship of designer
Peter Dundas – it’s sexy, fresh, confident and youthful
without being exclusively young. Think Kate Hudson
in her white plunge-backed, liquid jersey Pucci dress
at this year’s SAG Awards; Kylie in a cobalt blue thigh-
skimming mini; and Jennifer Lopez in a floor-length
cutaway Grecian goddess gown. As Style.com put it
after Dundas’ dressathon at Cannes, Pucci was one
of two dominating design houses at the star-studded
event, and is “the go-to brand for something short
and super-sexy”.
And yet Dundas has not disregarded Emilio’s
cavernous archive; there’s something about these
Clockwise from top left The Palazzo Pucci in Florence;
master perfumer François Demachy, who co-created Miss
Pucci; Image Director Laudomia Pucci; a dress from the
pieces that makes them instantly identifiable as
Pucci. A print here, the crest logo there. But it’s more
than that. “What’s funny is that Peter always talks
about the woman’s body,” says Laudomia, “and my
father was obsessed with the woman’s body. That’s
really cool: two different generations, two different
cultures, two different everything, and yet the same
vision. Pulling in here, squeezing there – that’s the
mark of somebody who has had couture schooling.
It’s the school of the hands-on, and you can see the
difference in the way the pieces hang on a woman.”
So it’s timely that in the wake of Dundas’ increasing
success with a new generation, Pucci has launched
its first non-Vivara fragrance since the brand started
creating perfume again in 2007. “Peter talks about
the Pucci girl, the celebrity girl, his girl,” explains
Laudomia, “and I think that essence has to be
translated into everything. You have to able to
translate it in the shoe, the bag and the perfume.
It needs to be cohesive,” she says.
So who is the Pucci girl? “It’s a new century. New
things are happening, and Pucci’s strong fashion is
being chosen by the empowered girl (in the American
sense of the word; we’re all girls!) – someone very
FRAGRANCE SPECIAL
1960s; the new Miss Pucci 75ml, £63, exclusive to Harrods;
Kate Hudson in Pucci at the 2010 SAG Awards; looks from
Emilio Pucci’s AW10 collection; Pucci designer Peter Dundas
strong, energetic, charming,” says Laudomia. To
reflect the Pucci girl, Laudomia wanted a floral-based
scent, and worked with legendary perfumer François
Demachy to achieve this using as few synthetic
ingredients as possible. The result is top notes of
magnolia and fresh Sicilian lemon that lead into a
heart of rose, orange blossom, ylang-ylang and
Arabian jasmine. But it is the base notes that are
perhaps closest to Laudomia’s heart. Woods and
musks are balanced with the powdery note of iris from
Florence – the home of Palazzo Pucci and the city in
which Laudomia grew up. “Iris of Florence is one of the
ending notes and, weight for weight, it’s more costly
than gold. Customers often aren’t well informed
enough about the quality of the ingredients, but in
Miss Pucci you can smell it,” she says. “The irises are
only out for one week a year, and you get the essence
from them by scraping the roots. Because of their
exclusivity, the extract is worth €50,000 per kilo.
Since François told me that, I’m getting my children
to dirty their hands!” And so the same attention to
detail goes into the fragrance as goes into the
fashion – all emanating from the same vision, and
all making perfect sense for a new decade. f


FAN DI FENDI
A scent as bold and chic as the Fendi woman
Once upon a time in a workshop in Rome, a bag
was born. This was not just any bag; this was
a very special accessory in a rainbow of jewel
colours that would go on to become what is now
considered the very first ‘It’ bag: the Fendi
Baguette. But as Silvia Venturini Fendi, Creative
Director of Fendi bags, explains, the Baguette
is much more than simply an ‘It’ bag.
“I’ve never liked the idea of the fashionable
handbag or ‘It’ bag – a coveted object to be shown
off in its uniformity,” explains Fendi. Rather, she
prefers the idea of a bag that has such timeless
appeal it can be as relevant 13 years later as it was
on launching. So, given that the Baguette is as
popular today as it was in 1997, and recently inspired
the new Fan di Fendi fragrance, it would seem that
Fendi has succeeded in surpassing ‘fashionable’.
The design of the Fan di Fendi bottle “is directly
inspired by the Fendi brand’s most iconic codes: the
Forever Buckle, which signs the Baguette; the
Peekaboo black clasp; and the Fendi yellow colour,”
continues Fendi. “The creative roadmap was to
capture in a fragrance the essence of what Fendi is
today.” And the Baguette helped achieve this

Clockwise from top left Silvia Venturini Fendi; Fendi’s SS08
show on the Great Wall of China; Fendi’s logo, projected onto
the wall; Anja Rubik behind the scenes of the Fan di Fendi
because it is much more than just bag and buckle.
It’s a very neat encapsulation of all that is, and has
always been, Fendi: playful, colourful, classic and
elegant, but above all else, feminine. Going back to
once upon a time, the house of Fendi has always
been a female-dominated environment. As Fendi
herself puts it, “The story of the house of Fendi is a
story about women: fun, free, timeless and with a
confident style.” Established in 1918 by Adele
Casagrande, the business changed its name to Fendi
when she married Edoardo Fendi in 1925. The
couple’s five daughters (one of whom is Silvia’s
mother) went on to run the business, enlisting the
styling expertise of a hot young talent named Karl
Lagerfeld. Between the Fendi girls and Lagerfeld, the
house’s popularity was propelled into fashion orbit
during the 1960s and has remained there ever since.
If the Baguette captures the spirit of Fendi in
a bag, Fan di Fendi does so in a spritz. Elegant and a
little rock’n’roll, the fragrance opens with unexpected,
playful pear notes alongside pink peppercorn,
blackcurrant and Calabrian tangerine. The floral
heart that follows is assertive yet feminine, as rose
and jasmine are combined with their less tame
LO-RES IMAGE
campaign; Pixie Lott, in Fendi, with Karl Lagerfeld; Abbey Lee
Kershaw on the AW10 catwalk; Baguette bags; Fan di Fendi
75ml, £67, exclusive to Harrods; the Fan di Fendi campaign
cousin, the tuberose; the base is bold sensuality in
the form of a suede, leather and patchouli accord.
Even in the choice of ingredients, Fendi fashion plays
a part. “Fendi’s signature leather is present in the
base notes of the fragrance,” explains François
Demachy, the nose behind Fan di Fendi. The
fragrance reflects Fendi’s quest for excellence.
And this excellence extends to each facet of the
fragrance. When designing the flacon, revered art
director Fabien Baron looked to the details on the
Baguette bag and used the clasp’s Forever Fendi
buckle logo in the bottle’s geometric design. Even
Fendi’s trademark colour yellow got involved, as the
flacon glows in warm gold. The ad campaign reflects
the chic rock’n’roll spirit of the famous Fendi O’ parties
through the involvement of models of the moment
Abbey Lee Kershaw, Anja Rubik and Karmen Pedaru.
“Fendi is a brand that is not scared of trespassing
traditional boundaries,” concludes Demachy. “It’s
daring, surprising, and driven by women!” And the
sum of the fragrance, the design, and the campaign
makes it very clear that almost 90 years on, Fendi’s
raison d’être hasn’t changed; it’s still all about fun,
freedom and a confident style.

DOLCE & GABBANA
THE ONE GENTLEMAN
The olfactory expression of a modern gent
“Our fragrances are always linked to the world
we have created; to our aesthetic vision,”
explains Domenico Dolce. “Yes, the relationship
between the fashion and the fragrance is
fundamental because, for us, the consistency
is very important,” continues Stefano Gabbana.
“For our latest, The One Gentleman, we looked
to our archive because our ideal man has always
been the same – he just evolved and became
more mature,” says Dolce.
And it’s timely for him to have grown up, because
this year sees Dolce & Gabbana menswear turn 20,
with the last two decades charting the evolution of
this man from dandy to astronaut to Riviera playboy.
Over the years, the designers have launched four
men’s fragrances to reflect these personalities, the
most recent of which is The One Gentleman. Dolce
Johansson & Gandy Rex Features
& Gabbana wanted to bottle the essence of a real
man; someone worldly, chivalrous and, of course,
impeccably dressed. Someone who appreciates the
details on an AW10 dinner jacket; who understands
the beautiful cut of a SS11 linen suit.
“The wearer will recognise himself in this
fragrance because he’s a gentleman in the literal
Clockwise from top left Matthew McConaughey in The One
Gentleman ad campaign; a work in progress at the workshop;
a womanly Madonna in the recent womenswear campaign;
sense of the word,” says Gabbana. To enforce this,
the duo enlisted the Alpha-male charms of Matthew
McConaughey to be the fragrance’s face. “This
fragrance really mirrors our ideal man in every
aspect: he’s cosmopolitan, successful, but also
naturally elegant.”
The designers have clearly thought long and
hard about this fragrance and its wearer, down
to the very last detail – a luxury afforded to them
as a company that has remained independent
since launching in 1985. Their creative vision is
autonomous, which brings cohesion to every aspect
of their brand. As men become men again, the Dolce
& Gabbana woman returns to her voluptuous best
as corsets, fitted satin, and leopard print are once
again the order of the day. Think Madonna in the
recent womenswear campaign, and Scarlett
Johansson for The One for women. The look is
unabashed femininity that nods to the Italian
bombshells who played muse to Dolce & Gabbana’s
early collections and put them on the fashion radar.
This philosophy has also been applied to their
fragrances; each one is clearly divided by gender,
and captures the inimitable Dolce & Gabbana
FRAGRANCE SPECIAL
designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana; The One
Gentleman 100ml, £49, exclusive to Harrods; a suit from AW10;
Scarlett Johansson and David Gandy in Dolce & Gabbana
aesthetic. The success of this formula saw the
brand’s first, eponymous perfume win best feminine
fragrance of the year from the Perfume Academy in
1993, closely followed in 1995 by Dolce & Gabbana
Pour Homme, which won best masculine fragrance.
Today, The One Gentleman’s considered construction
promises to make it equally successful. It is the
ultimate connoisseur’s scent; its sublime Oriental
fougère speaks of understated allure and an innate
confidence. The scent itself is a sophisticated accord
centred on dark vanilla. “This is a classic fragrance
with a big vanilla note of vanilla absolute combined
with vanillin,” explains Will Andrews of the fragrance
design team. “The first is the natural essence
extracted from vanilla seed pods, and it is surprisingly
balsamic in character. The second – vanillin – is like the
purest, cleanest form of vanilla.” The vanilla base is
balanced by a heart of lavender, fennel and cardamom,
with top notes that include pepper and grapefruit. The
resulting accord is sexy, sophisticated, fun and edible;
everything that is signature Dolce & Gabbana. “Ours
is a world made by many things. It’s not only clothes,
but a life philosophy,” concludes Gabbana. And here’s
to the next 20 years of that philosophy. f

 LOVE CHLOÉ
Floral and powdery makes for easy ’s chic
The wide-legged trouser; a rainbow of camel;
platform sandals; bouncy, soft-focus hair: the
influence of the 1970s on AW10’s trends is
ubiquitous, thanks to one woman – Hannah
MacGibbon, the Central Saint Martins alumnus
who is the current artistic director at Chloé. And
this month, her infectious ’70s influence extends
one step further as Chloé launches a new perfume.
“Hannah had the original idea of using a powdery
note at the heart of Chloé’s new fragrance,” explains
Louise Turner, the nose behind the brand’s latest
scent Love Chloé. “So we took inspiration from
poudre de riz, which is the typical ‘face powder’
note that gives fragrance a cosmetic feel.” And why
powdery? You’ve guessed it…“Because that sort
of powdery note gives the scent a retro ’70s feel in
keeping with the fashion,” Turner explains.
The current unity of Chloé’s fashion and fragrance
is seamless. Turner even describes Love Chloé as
the olfactory incarnation of Chloé muse Raquel
Zimmermann, who is, of course, the face of the
perfume. This Chloé woman is, “Self assured,
feminine; someone who makes her own choices and
wears fragrance for her own pleasure,” says Turner.

Clockwise from top left Raquel Zimmermann in the Love
Chloé ad campaign; the new flacon being presented at the
recent launch; Chloé designer Hannah MacGibbon in her
This brand unity has always been something that
the house of Chloé has made seem effortless. When
Gaby Aghion opened the very first ready-to-wear
boutique in 1952, she named it Chloé. Her vision
was to create luxury prêt-a-porter pieces – clothes
that were beautifully made with fine fabrics but
didn’t carry the price tag of couture. She was a
runaway success, and some Parisian couturiers
quickly followed suit. The Chloé woman then was
much like she is now; she wasn’t interested in stiff
formality – she was a super-girly free spirit with an
innate elegance. She was the epitome of young,
fresh, French chic.
In 1975, she was bottled for the first time in the
original Chloé fragrance – a scent of green and warm
florals and a trace of coconut, which was all about
the beauty and naivety of youth.
When Phoebe Philo took Chloé’s creative reigns
from Stella McCartney in 2001, the fluid, romantic
shapes of her collections were supplemented with
the most must of must-have accessories (remember
the sell-out Paddington bag?), and a new eponymous
fragrance that was floral, airy and powdery. The
relaxed femininity of Philo’s collections – which
studio; coveted Chloé accessories; shades of camel and
’70s style on the AW10 catwalk; Love Chloé 50ml, £50,
exclusive to Harrods; perfumer Louise Turner
became some of the most dominant of the decade
– were perfectly mirrored in the eau de parfum.
That same powdery note remains in the new Love
Chloé – along with all that is feminine, floral, and
romantic about the brand – but the scent is
completely different. Less bohemian romanticism
in the warm and hazy French countryside, more
charming, spontaneous, relaxed city girl chic.
Love Chloé opens with orange blossom and pink
pepper, which leads into the floral heart of iris, lilac,
hyacinth, wisteria blossom and heliotropin. And then
for the sultry, powdery base that comes from a mix of
musks combined with talc and rice powder for what
has now become a signature Chloé accord.
The perfume’s flacon, meanwhile, combines the
Chloé colour of nude pink with elements of polished
gold hardware that reflect the coveted bags. “For me,
Flacons at launch Getty Images
Chloé is about the contrast of the chic and relaxed;
retro with cool. I really love the brand,” says Turner.
And what she also says is that she predicts a return
to big florals as the next trend in fragrance. Given the
symbiotic nature of the brand, we might just have
been given a tip-off of what to expect from Hannah
MacGibbon’s next collection…

HERMÈS  FAUBOURG
A fluid silk scarf inspired the Jeu des
Omnibus et Dames Blanches edition
Up there with the most baffling questions of
all time is this: How do the French transform a
AW10 show, AW10 clutch, Birkin bag Catwalking.com; Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly Photoshot
simple scarf into the ultimate of chic accessories?
Is it the nuance of their knots? The 45-degree
angle at which the scarf is tied? Or is it a much
less tangible Gallic je ne sais quoi that the rest of
the world can only dream of acquiring? Whatever
the (unanswerable) answer, suffice to say that
France’s history of designing and crafting some
of the world’s best scarves can only have helped.
At the forefront of these is Hermès – an iconic
fashion house in the purest sense of the word.
Hermès has been around for nigh on two centuries
and during this time has inspired utter devotion in its
wearers. Audrey Hepburn was rarely seen without an
insouciantly tied kerchief around her neck, or a scarf
delicately draped to keep her hair in place. In 1959,
Grace Kelly even fashioned one of her Hermès scarves
into a sling, working injury chic like never before.
And all of this stemmed from Thierry Hermès’
humble harness and saddle shop, which he opened
in 1837 in the centre of Paris. By 1880, Thierry’s son
All fragrances available from Perfumery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Charles-Emile had taken over and decided to move
the business to 24 Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré – a
move that would mark a milestone for the brand and
for Paris, as decades later the Hermès boutique
would become famous for its spectacular window
displays and the rich and famous clientele it drew. It
was from this location that Charles-Emile, and later
his sons, would establish the business as a leading
leather specialist and clothing designer.
By the 1930s, the house of Hermès was in full swing,
notably creating a bag that would later be named the
‘Kelly’ after Grace herself. But the defining moment
of this decade was the birth of the now legendary
Hermès scarf, or carré. In 1937, to mark the brand’s
100th birthday, Emile-Marice Hermès commissioned
90 square centimetres of silk to be produced with
careful attention to every detail from start to finish.
The carrés were individually printed with a design
inspired by an 1830s board game, Jeu des Omnibus
et Dames Blanches. The design was years in the
making, and changed scarf wearing forever after.
In celebration of the carrés, Hermès introduced
FRAGRANCE SPECIAL
the 24 Faubourg fragrance in 2004, a perfume that
pays homage to Hermès’ scarf archive. Each year a
limited-edition bottle is released, inspired by a different
print. For 2010, the original Jeu des Omnibus et
Dames Blanches print has been immortalised in and
on glass. “A silk scarf in motion inspired the shape
of this flacon,” explains Catherine Fulconis, CEO of
Hermès perfumes. “It was designed by glass artist
Serge Mansau and has a gentle movement to it,
giving it curves and a feminine roundness.”
The scent itself is a swirl of white flowers. Orange
blossom along with jasmine, tiare flower and ylang
ylang open the perfume, while amber and vanilla
establish a deep heart accord, and patchouli,
sandalwood and powdery iris make up the base.
“I love the smell of jasmine. It reminds me of when,
as a child, I picked it with my grandmother,” says
Fulconis. “24 Faubourg is one of a kind. An explosion of
white flowers; it has a warm, captivating sensuality.”
So for those who haven’t quite mastered the art of
tying a scarf French-style, a little piece of the Hermès
dream through a spritz of scent is much simpler. HMN

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FRAGRANCE SPECIAL
FROZEN
ASSETS
The definition of a truly classic fragrance is one
that captures the zeitgeist of its time, changes
the direction of perfume, and remains in the
olfactory canon for years to come
By FLEUR FRUZZA / Photographer ALAIN COSTA
Guerlain /Shalimar
To say that the house of Guerlain shaped modern
perfumery since 1828 is no exaggeration. In
1889, Aimé Guerlain created the first perfume to
contain synthetic materials. He called it Jicky. It
was shocking, modern and spectacularly popular.
From that moment, Guerlain gathered momentum
and, to this day, hasn’t slowed down. Jacques
Guerlain followed Jicky with L’Heure Bleue in 1912
and Mitsouko in 1919, the first fragrance to use
peach notes. But in 1925, Jacques created what
has remained the house’s hero scent: Shalimar.
Considered the first modern Oriental fragrance,
Shalimar was the perfume that came to represent
a new, bolder femininity. Jacques added vanilla to
the house’s signature ‘Guerlinade’ accord that
included iris and tonka bean, and the olfactory
symphony of Shalimar played out. The fragrance
is as popular today as it was in 1925, and has been
updated with a flacon designed by Jade Jagger.
Guerlain Shalimar eau de parfum 50ml, £57,
exclusive to Harrods
Tom Ford /Azure Lime
Tom Ford is very clear on what sets a classic
perfume apart: “An iconic fragrance means
permanence, longevity, timelessness.” When
Ford created his first fragrances, he did so hoping
to achieve perfumes reminiscent of those from
great fragrance houses. But they also needed to
be relevant for a new generation. Combine one
with the other and you have a modern classic
in the making. “I wanted a fragrance with a
memorable scent and a modern sensibility,”
explains Ford. And his Private Blend Collection
is precisely that. Olfactory old-schoolers like
amber, oud, tobacco and vanilla take on a sharp
Fordian twist that brings them up to date. The
most recent addition is Azure Lime, a scent
inspired by the island of Mustique, with its lush
lime groves. The top notes of lime lead into neroli,
jasmine, violet, and orange flower grounded by
sandalwood, patchouli, tonka bean and musk.
Tom Ford Azure Lime eau de parfum 50ml, £115;
250ml, £260, exclusive to Harrods


FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

Creed /Green Irish Tweed

Tucked away in the French countryside is a
workshop of experts fastidiously toiling over
bottles of Creed Millésime, lovingly perfecting
each one by hand. Reassuring, isn’t it, that the
age-old house of Creed still creates perfume
using the same standards as it always has?
“Our fragrances are handmade from the finest
ingredients in the world, just as they have been
for the last 250 years,” says Olivier Creed, direct
descendent of James Henry Creed, who started
the business. Creed’s Millésime eaux de parfum
are made with the highest percentage of natural
essences possible, and the men’s Green Irish
Tweed Millésime has become iconic. Green
heart notes from verbena and violet leaves are
balanced with Florentine iris and sandalwood
for a perfect floral green-meets-wood accord.
Creed Green Irish Tweed Millésime eau de
parfum 75ml, £123
Aramis/Aramis
The year is 1965, and the ’60s are most certainly
swinging. Hemlines are getting shorter, make-
up is becoming bolder, and male grooming is
about to change forever as the world’s first
men’s fragrance launches, accompanied by a
full line of professional products. Aramis eau
de toilette quickly established itself as the
olfactory equivalent of undiluted, bare-chested
masculinity. Even the name Aramis emanated
from a Turkish root known for its aphrodisiac
properties. The scent was created by Mrs Estée
Lauder in conjunction with perfumer Bernard
Chant, who worked with an opening of bergamot,
leading into a heart of sage, myrtle oil and clove
bud oil, balanced by a lingering base of patchouli,
sandalwood, vetiver and leather. Since launching,
Aramis has retained unwavering popularity, has
an instantly recognisable accord, and has
become a byword for simple, masculine chic.
Aramis eau de toilette 110ml, £46


FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

Yves Saint Laurent /Opium

“This will be the Empress of China’s perfume,”
announced Yves Saint Laurent in 1977 as he
launched Opium – a fragrance inspired by the
hypnotic mysticism of the Orient. This name,
however, combined with Helmut Newton’s
provocative ad campaign featuring Jerry Hall,
marked a controversial start for the scent. In fact,
such was the scandal surrounding the launch,
Opium was banned in China and Saudi Arabia, and
only allowed into the US after the government
conducted an investigation to ensure it didn’t
encourage drug-taking. But controversy breeds
curiosity, and Opium quickly became so popular
that the house struggled to match demand
with supply. The scent itself promoted a
resurgence in Orientals, with its concentrated
accord of myrrh, jasmine, vanilla, patchouli and
amber. This month, YSL launches its new scent,
Belle d’Opium, which features a central accord
that is every bit as addictive as its ’70s namesake,
but with a contemporary combination of notes
for an entirely new generation.
Yves Saint Laurent Opium eau de parfum 50ml, £62
Christian Dior/J’Adore
When Christian Dior unveiled his New Look in
1947, he did so alongside his first fragrance, Miss
Dior. Such was his dedication to perfumery, Dior
saw it as an extension of his haute couture and
treated it as such; only the finest ingredients
and craftsmanship would do. Over 50 years
later, J’Adore was launched with the same
attention to detail, and has since become Dior’s
iconic, hero fragrance, echoing the success of
Miss Dior, now considered one of the defining
fragrances of modern perfumery. J’Adore
captures the warmth and femininity synonymous
with Dior in notes of rose, jasmine and ylang
ylang; it is a simple but intricate floral. “J’Adore
is the perfect harmony between past and present
perfume making,” explains Dior perfumer
François Demachy. “Natural floral essences are
blended with cutting-edge products. It is an art
of raw material, like an haute-couture gown.”
Christian Dior J’Adore eau de parfum 100ml, £83


FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

Thierry Mugler/Angel
Few fragrances are as polarising in the reaction
they incite as Thierry Mugler’s Angel: you either
love it or loathe it. This is arguably because
Angel is unique in its lack of floral notes; it’s all
about food. Created in 1992, Angel captured
the zeitgeist perfectly. As a backlash against
the showy excess of the ’80s, the early ’90s
saw perfume turn to escapism, be it light,
watery scents that suggested a far-flung
destination, or a sugary accord like that of
Angel, which suggested childhood abandon,
fantasy and reverie. Vanilla, chocolate, caramel
and patchouli comprise the gourmand base
notes, while fruit and honey make up the
middle, finished with an opening of bergamot.
Those who love Angel really love Angel – the
fragrance has inspired utter devotion and,
at times, been France’s bestselling perfume.
Thierry Mugler Angel eau de parfum 100ml
refillable bottle, £106.50
Clive Christian / No.1
The name of this perfume speaks for itself: No.1
is exactly that – the world’s most precious, most
expensive perfume. And to ensure it stays that
way, perfumer Clive Christian has kept the scent’s
composition shrouded in a degree of mystery –
all we know is that it contains crystallised Tahitian
vanilla and Indian sandalwood, and has limited
production due to the rarity of the ingredients.
But Christian didn’t set out to gain such an
accolade – the fact that he created the world’s
most expensive perfume was an olfactory
accident. Inspired by the British Perfume House
of the 1800s, which was endorsed by Queen
Victoria, Christian decided to create a perfume
to reflect the house’s nobility and celebrate
British perfumery. His only stipulation was that
he would not be restricted by cost. And so No.1
was born, with its singular composition marked
by a single brilliant-cut diamond on every flacon.
Clive Christian No.1 pure perfume 30ml, £2,700

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT Morgan Johnson

DIGITAL ASSISTANT Chris Fenner

Available from Beauty Apothecary, Cosmetics

and Perfumery, Ground Floor; Roja Dove Haute
Parfumerie, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com


 ’Tis (almost )
the SEASON...

Harrods 2002 Vintage

Bauble £4.95. Available
HARRODS
from Christmas World,
Second Floor REWARDS
The Harrods Rewards card programme is our way of saying thank you to our
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 Clockwise from top right Montgomery
cheddar £28 per kg; Paxton & Whitfield
BIG CHEESE
Creamy, peppery, crumbly, and a year in the making – it’s time
charcoal crackers £3.50 for 150g box;
Tymsboro unpasteurized goat’s cheese £9.60 to rediscover what real cheese is all about
per piece; aged Red Leicester £18 per kg;
Colston Bassett stilton £22.50 per kg By HAMISH SMITH/ Photographer TARA FISHER/ Food Stylist VALERIE BERRY

 FOOD

Cheddar cheese is woven into the history of Britain.

Some say it goes as far back as the 12th century;
others claim it goes even further. These days its
appeal extends far beyond the village from which it
took its name. Without the protection of regional
exclusivity, cheddar has spread to become a world
cheese, with producers almost as likely to hail from
the west coast of America or the Western Cape as
they are from the West Country.
Of all the cheddar makers, few are faithful to the
traditional method. In fact, cheddar’s greatest failing
(for mass producers) is its inability to adapt to industrial
production, a practice that tends to favour intensive
output over depth of flavour.
But tucked away in the Somerset countryside is a
farmer named James Montgomery, a third-generation
cheddar maker steeped in the traditions of his craft.
The story of Montgomery cheddar starts with a story.
Among Montgomery’s 150 acres of land lies an Iron Age
hill fort that looms over the Somerset basin. Depending
on your historical sensibilities, this is the vantage point
from which King Arthur defended Wessex from the
Saxons. To many, including Montgomery, this is Camelot.
Farming a site of outstanding historical significance is
not lost on Montgomery. During the summer months he
sends his Friesian heifers to the hilltop for grazing or, as
he calls it, “training”.
“We get so many visitors that the cows see people all
summer,” he explains, “which means they’re not stressed
by the idea of being touched by humans, and they’re
happy to come in and be milked.”
The milk drawn from his herd is essential to
Montgomery cheddar. Just as the age-old practice
demands – and contrary to the industry standard – milk
is processed in its raw, unpasteurised state, and is made cheese that, in Montgomery’s words, is “slightly peppery
into cheese daily during its short window of freshness. with a creaminess behind it, a little meatiness and a
After a bacterium is added, an enzyme – or rennet, to slightly dry flavour.” CHEESE & WINE
use cheesemaking parlance – is mixed in to curdle the In artisanal cheesemaking, flavour can vary from batch The strong flavour of Montgomery
milk. On an industrial level, rennet is artificially produced, to batch. With seven types of bacteria rotated through cheddar demands an equally bold
but Montgomery favours the old-fashioned variety – an the week, a lot depends on the individual strain at work. oenological accompaniment.
extract from the lining of a calf’s stomach. This means that the cheddar has to be regularly graded. Below are three complementary
“There are vegetable rennets,” explains Montgomery, For Montgomery, there is no toil in the task. Even after a recommendations from the experts:
“but they have a reputation for making the cheese bitter.” lifetime of cheesemaking, he still manages to muster a
And that just wouldn’t do for Montgomery. His attention taste for cheddar. “I love it,” he says. “But it depends on • Oloroso Sherries bear a dark,
to the nuances of flavour creation is absolute. Even if it how much I’ve had to grade. If I taste 60 samples, I’m not nutty character, which will perfectly
means eliminating the vegetarian market, “I would rather going to go home and have a cheese sandwich.” complement the Montgomery
have the flavour,” insists Montgomery. Ironically, it was a slice of fortune, not cheese, that saw cheddar. Sandeman, Royal
Once the milk has coagulated, the whey is separated Montgomery cheddar receive worldwide recognition. In Corregidor Rich Old 20yo £18.95
from the curd and the process of cheddaring begins. By 1998, 10 days before the coveted British Cheese Awards, • A Bordeaux’s elegant tannin
hand, the curd is cut, stacked and turned repeatedly until £35,000 of Montgomery’s best aged cheddar was stolen structure and acidity will easily help
the moisture is drained and a springy texture is left. It from his storeroom. As winner of Best Cheddar and Best you through a whole block of this
is then passed through an old-fashioned peg mill, which Traditional English Cheese the two previous years, the theft richly flavoured cheese. Château
shreds the curd into irregularly shaped pieces. “It’s a sign became a story that went global. “We were getting clippings Rauzan-Ségla 2004, Margaux £52.50
of handmade cheese,” explains Montgomery. “It makes the from New Zealand, Bulgaria, South America – every paper • An aged Rioja is for the more
cheddar crumbly and gives it more texture, more fissuring.” ran it,” recalls Montgomery. “After that, the phone went adventurous, with plenty of
The cheddar is then bathed in hot water to create a red hot; everyone wanted to know where to buy it.” personality to bring out the best
rind, wrapped in cloth and doused in the erstwhile For an artisan cheese producer, having your prized in this cheddar. Monte Real, Gran
favourite of lard, to seal it for pressing and ageing. In asset stolen on the eve of a competition would ordinarily Reserva 2001 £35
Montgomery’s storeroom, the atmosphere is carefully be bad luck or, dare it be said, hard cheese. But having the
controlled to trigger the growth of mould. “We get this world hear that his was probably the best cheddar in the Available from The Wine Shop,
lovely blue mould,” he says, “and once it has covered the world may well have been the making of Montgomery. HMN Lower Ground Floor
whole cheese and eaten off all the lard, it’s job done.”
Getty images

But to arrive at job done takes more than a year. It is Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor
then that the level of cheese crystals – calcium lactate –
is at its highest and the flavour is bedded. The result is a Hamish Smith contributes to Restaurant Top Rounds of Montgomery cheddar cheese


 NEWS
In Season This Month What to Eat Now
Affectionately known as ‘truffle head’ for his love of
truffles, British food ambassador and chef Valentine Warner
made his culinary debut in 2008 with his show What to Eat
Now. His influence has been paramount; we’ve learned what
to eat and, more importantly, when food is at its seasonal
best. He has long been a champion of small, innovative
British suppliers, introducing foodies to such new delicacies
as rare-breed lamb and ethically reared veal. This month,
Wild mushrooms Warner is introducing some of his favourite suppliers to the
Food Halls and producing some distinctly British dishes,
such as Welsh rarebit with fried duck egg and watercress.
Suppliers available from Food Halls, Ground Floor.
Dishes available from 18th September to 3rd October
in Café Harrods, Caffè Espresso, Caffè Florian, the
Georgian Restaurant, Pizzeria, Rotisserie, Sea Grill
and Terrace Bar
Carroll’s Heritage potatoes

TOP  CHEESES
1 This unnamed semi-hard cheese, which
will be named by customers, is firm and
slightly crumbly, with a sharp, acidic flavour
Heritage carrots and a creamy, rich and savoury texture.

2 Six Spires cheese has a dense, slightly waxy

texture and a well-rounded, mature flavour.
The milk used to produce it comes from a farm
in nearby West Pennard.

Squash
3 Pennard Vale is a hard goat’s cheese. It has
a close, smooth, creamy texture and a nutty
taste that extends into a savoury finish.
Somerset Cheese Company cheeses from £25 per kg

TRADITIONAL FARMING
Coggeshall is a small town with a big reputation. With over 300 listed buildings, it won the title
Mushrooms, squash, plums and sugar bracelet Stockfood; potatoes, carrots, chestnuts & mussels iStock; mackerel Corbis

of Essex’s best-kept village in 2003, and most of its local businesses date back to the 1500s.
Chestnuts Tradition and heritage are in the water. It is no wonder, then, that the area is home to
Blackwells Farm Produce, which was established in the 1930s. Blackwells abides by traditional
farming methods and sells rare cuts of meat such as hogget and mutton produced to an exceptionally high
standard. “Our customers know that the meat they buy from us has been traditionally farmed, and that the
animals have been reared with great care for their welfare,” says the farm’s owner, Howard Blackwell
(pictured). “It is through this reputation that we provide the best quality for our customers.”

Mussels

Sweet TREATS
Hattie & Blythe’s nostalgic range of tuck-shop treats will have you
casting your memory back to fun-filled playground days of sugar
highs and pink-stained tongues. The sweets include rainbow drops,
sherbet-filled flying saucers, candy whistles, sweetie bracelets
Mackerel and fizz wiz, all crammed into a bag with a hand-tied ribbon. For
chocolate lovers, Sir Hans Sloane’s Winter Bar Collection will excite
your senses. With arguably the most enviable job in the world,
globetrotter and master chocolatier Bill McCarrick, founder
of Sir Hans Sloane, is inspired by flavours from his travels.
The collection uses such ingredients as cranberries,
mandarins and cinnamon.
Hattie & Blythe sweets from £3.50
English plums
Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

harrods.com 
 FOOD
BUON APPETITO
From the banks of Venice’s Grand Canal to Knightsbridge,
now lucky Londoners can sample a little dolce vita
By AMY BROOMFIELD
Long before coffee-break culture existed, Floriano
Francesconi made dining in his café an art form, with
first-class refreshments set against a backdrop of
art, culture, music and socialising. Caffè alla Venezia
Trionfante – Café of the Triumphant Venice – was a
buzzing hub of a coffee house. It was the place to go,
as well as the place to be seen, if you wanted to know
what was going on in the world. Like a modern-day
search engine, Francesconi himself was a font of
knowledge: he knew everything about his customers;
regulars came to see him if they were looking for
someone; and visitors considered him a local directory.
“Caffè Florian has His café was also the first and only place that sold one
of the city’s earliest newspapers, Gazzetta Veneta.
always been the place Caffè Florian, as it later became known, was established
to go, as well as the in 1720 and is one of the oldest coffee houses in Italy. As
an iconic part of Venetian history, the café was one of the
place to be seen” first to allow women, which undoubtedly attracted the
infamous Casanova. Casanova liked it so much that he’s
rumoured to have stopped in for a coffee en route to Paris,
just after escaping prison. Members of the literary elite
also frequented the place, including Goethe, Lord Byron,
Charles Dickens and Marcel Proust. The café itself has
enjoyed its own share of the limelight, with a mention in
Henry James’ The Wings of the Dove, and Evelyn Waugh’s
Brideshead Revisited. It was also the setting for one of the
final scenes in Patricia Highsmith’s The Talented Mr Ripley.
Today, the sumptuously decorated Florian, with its
frescoes, stuccoes and mosaics, continues to welcome
international visitors from royalty to the rich and famous.
Harrods is the first venue to host Caffè Florian in the

UK; the interior and atmosphere have been carefully
recreated in keeping with its original counterpart, which
serves to remind coffee-lovers what makes a good coffee
and, indeed, a good coffee break. A comfy chair is essential,
and with oversized ones made for sinking into and classical
music in the air, it’s impossible not to relax and enjoy the
ambience. Mosaics decorate the floor, and the artwork on
the walls is softly lit with handcrafted purple lamps in the
shape of winged lions – the Florian emblem.
Defined by Venetian tradition, Caffè Florian offers an
extensive list of Arabica coffees, cocktails, light meals and
delicate pastries. Cicchetti, or appetizers, such as grilled
bruschetta with creamed salt cod and herbs, are prepared
in the traditional way. House specialities include pan-
seared salmon as well as the insalata di burrata, Italian
cheese on a bed of braised radicchio. Sweets range from
an exotic fruit tart with passionfruit curd to chocolate
truffle cake, homemade ice creams including tiramisu ice
cream with mocha-soaked Italian biscuits and a shot of
espresso, or lemon and raspberry ice cream with fresh
fruit and limoncello.
There’s also a selection of classic cocktails such as
Kir Royales and Mimosas or house specialities like the
Aperitivo Rosso Florian and the Cocktail Florian – a cool
mix of gin, Martini Extra Dry, Campari and Grand Marnier.
With every chance of spotting a modern-day Casanova
– though hopefully not one on the run – Caffè Florian is
a cosy retreat for regulars and international visitors, or
anyone who is serious about a very nice cup of coffee. HMN
Caffè Florian, Third Floor
harrods.com
Silver Room, Second Floor
Telephone: 0207 730 1234 ext 2878

harrods@carrs-silver.co.uk
 FEELING
Clockwise from top right Moser ‘Gema’ vase
£1,200; Formia ‘Delhi’ purple bowl £999;
Orrefors ‘Deep Purple II’ vase by Lena
Bergström £1,550; Baccarat ‘Vega’ wine glasses
BLUE
Amethyst, sapphire and turquoise – this season’s
in amethyst and sapphire £100 each; Baccarat
‘Mille Nuit’ Champagne flutes in cobalt blue, coloured crystal undergoes a magical, jewel-inspired
midnight and amethyst £110 each
Available from Crystal & Glass, Second Floor transformation. Photographer CHRIS TURNER

 INTERIORS

FOR

Beautiful, bespoke, rare; Haute Harrods is here with a series of

specially created, limited-edition designs that blur the boundaries
between furniture and fashion, and combine the creative vision
of some of the world’s finest interiors and fashion designers
By BECKY SUNSHINE

 For a while now, fashion designers have been dabbling
in creative circles outside their own. Jasper Conran
and Missoni are just two well-known brands that have
made waves in homewares. But the latest trend in
interiors is designers creating one-offs or limited
editions that douse the often conservative world of
furniture in a shower of fashion fairy dust.

The Fashion Collaboration

To celebrate its 50th anniversary, Roche-Bobois set Jean
Paul Gaultier loose on a few of its favourite pieces. The
result was a series of brilliant new designs with – as
expected – just the right injection of humour, quirkiness
and originality. The classic ‘Mah Jong’ modular sofa has
been reworked in a navy and white Sailor line, and in
customisable prints and patterns in the Couture range.
Gaultier’s collection also features a magical wardrobe.
Its silver anodized aluminium articulated trunk has
drawers, rails and wheels, and can be used as a screen,
mirror or wardrobe, and features Gaultier’s classic tattoo
motif. His bed is equally decadent, with an attached
screen on casters, a fabric-covered headboard and either
two or four moving panels. The bed’s calligraphy-printed “I had a wonderful The Fashion Exhibition
screen can wrap around to create a luxurious cocoon.
“I only know how to design clothes,” says Gaultier, “so, in
partner in Roche-Bobois, Meanwhile at venerable Italian house Frette, celebrating
a way, I dressed the furniture. When I design my collections, which supervised the 150 years of exquisite bed linen is the perfect excuse for
I supervise everything. I sometimes have 10 fittings for a
couture dress before I am satisfied with it. The dress is
production and turned having a little fun and creating one-off couture dresses,
which will be displayed on the balconies of the Egyptian
then made in my atelier so I can follow it from beginning to my drawings into reality” escalators at Harrods from 30th August until 30th
end. For the furniture – which is not my domain – I had a – Jean Paul Gaultier September. Crafted entirely from Frette bed linens, each
wonderful partner in Roche-Bobois, which supervised the of the 10 gowns is inspired by a different period in
production and turned my drawings into reality.” costume history. ‘Breakfast in Bed’ takes its lead from the
David Miller, Director of Harrods Home, believes that tail coats of the late 1800s; sculpted and draped, the
great working partnerships like these are the core of these ‘Consolle’ – based on the dramatic furniture used in the
collaborations. “There is a great synergy between the entrances of grand homes during the early 1900s, has
fashion and interior design worlds, so it’s a natural step for vase sleeves and a petticoat revealing cascades of
the catwalk styles to influence interiors trends,” he says. flowers. The ‘Room with View’ dress is a nod to Art Deco
Gaultier’s strength has always been in his ability to twist – a vast cloak with a train in tulle, with silk fringing and
a classic and have a bit of fun with design, which is why his finished with brass curtain rings.
limited-edition ‘Suitcase’ chest of drawers hits all the right Travelling through the early 20th century takes us to
Paint splats iStock

This page, clockwise from top left Section from

notes. A stack of leather suitcases, which function as
storage, comes as either a 10-drawer tallboy or a three-door
unit; both have a vanity mirror. And then there’s the quirky
‘Ben Hur’ chariot chair, an homage to the classic film.
Jean Paul Gaultier Pour Roche Bobois Paris
Maj Jong Haute Couture sofa, from £895 per
cushion, and bed £7,995; Frette ‘Room with
View’ and ‘Coco Chevel’ dresses; the entire
Frette dress collection
‘Coco Chevet’, an homage to Coco Chanel and two of her
greatest pieces, reinterpreted with tiers of pillowcases;
and the 1930s ‘Bath Goddess’ is a towelling robe
honouring legendary Hollywood actresses.
INTERIORS
The Fashion Icons
Italian fashion house Etro, known for producing exquisite,
luxe prints, has created two one-of-a-kind screens
exclusively for Haute Harrods. A brand associated with
elegance, luxury and decoration, Etro places its attention
on the heritage of craftsmanship, colour and print.
The brand’s signature paisley motif – which is also the
symbol of eternal life – lends itself brilliantly to products
for the home. The screens, which come in green or red,
have four panels and feature a laminated print.
“The screen can be not only a decorative item, like a
sculpture, but also an object that allows a space to be
more functional and changeable,” says Jacopo Etro,
Creative Director of home and accessories. “It’s a
movable wall painting to furnish your private space.”
The inspiration for the red screen, he explains, comes
from Etro’s cashmere shawls. “Etro style was born out of
a passion for beauty and an in-depth understanding of
textile art, where the paisley pattern dominates the entire
production,” he says. “We’ve re-examined the mystique
and allure of cashmere shawls worn in late 19th-century
Paris. It represents the importance of honouring the roots
of the tradition and the value of the past.
“The green screen represents a new tradition for
Etro print,” he continues. “We used the paisley pattern,
re-imagined in a contemporary, funky print. We had
explored and reinterpreted the classic droplet-shaped
vegetable motif through experimentation and technology,
but we never forget our history and values.”
There’s just no mistaking the hand of English designer
Paul Smith. Always with just the right amount of
eccentricity and flair, Smith is not only prolific in the
fashion world, but has also been creating furniture and
accessories for years. Now, exclusively for Haute Harrods,
Smith has made a one-off ‘Chelsea Garden’ sofa, which is
on display in-store. “I aim to find interior pieces that have
the qualities that I try to develop in clothes,” he says.
“This piece is the perfect example: it has a simple and
functional element that contrasts with the bright and
quirky print. I think it’s important to look for something a
bit different as well as quality.” The sofa, which captures
“Form and function are
my main tools to move
and touch people, no
matter what I design”
– Alessandro Mendini for Alessi
Top left Jacopo Etro; Etro screen £9,999;
Top centre Henrik Pedersen; Bo Concept
‘Imola’ chair £1,799; Top right Paul Smith;
the Paul Smith one-of-a-kind ‘Chelsea
Garden’ sofa £9,400, exclusive to Harrods;
Above Alessandro Mendini; Alessi ‘Anna G7’
corkscrew £2,200
Smith’s love of flowers, colour and organic shapes, is the
very essence of his brand.
For Alessi, designer Alessandro Mendini has reinvented
his ‘Anna G’ ballerina corkscrew, which was first launched
in 1994 and has been an Alessi best-seller ever since.
“Alessi corkscrews are something that you can surprise
guests with and show some character with an otherwise
unexciting utensil,” he says. As part of Officina Alessi –
Alessi’s more refined and experimental objects, which are
made in limited editions – Mendini has created special
luxury versions of ‘Anna G’. Only 99 have been made of
the seven new designs. One of the corkscrews has a real
diamond necklace; one is gold-plated with diamonds,
topaz and coral; and a simpler version is in gold, silver and
agate. There is even a £26,800 version, of which only nine
have been made – one of which is available at Harrods.
“The ‘Anna G’ corkscrew has two lives,” explains Mendini.
“One is that of a true functional tool to open wine bottles;
the other is the life of a figurine, a knick-knack with a
human body. And that’s why it can be both elegant and
decorated with jewels. This has been an excellent occasion
to work with gifted jewellers in an Italian area that has been
specialised in this kind of handicraft for centuries,” he says.
When Danish designer Henrik Pedersen, who has a
background in fashion, was asked to create something
special for Bo Concept, he came up with the ‘Imola’ chair.
Well on its way to becoming an icon, the design was inspired
by the curves of a tennis ball. “If there’s one rule for my
design, it is that it has to speak to you,” Pedersen says.
“Form and function are my main tools to move and touch
people, no matter what I design. With the ‘Imola’ chair, for
example, the organic expression almost talks to the
unconscious urge to sit down and rest. The distinctiveness
lies within the visual tension that’s created between the
spoon-shaped seat and the sharp cut on the edges.” And
so, as part of Haute Harrods, Pedersen presented a specially
commissioned high-backed version in vivid patchwork
upholstery set on a brushed steel frame. HMN
Available across the Second and Third Floors from
30th August to 2nd October
Paint splats iStock
Becky Sunshine writes about style and design for
The Telegraph Magazine, Elle Decoration, Sunday Times
Style and Grazia
the egyptian hall, ground floor
NEWS
THE CENTREPIECE
As one of the most versatile precious metals in the world, silver has been
mined, prized and valued for around 6,000 years. With a reflectivity
greater than gold, it has remained an interiors staple in every style of
home. Silversmith Georg Jensen believed in combining the functional with
contemporary design, shown in the fluid lines of the ‘Pass It’ bowl (above),
a piece of art with a purpose. Although there is only one in existence, the
bowl can be commissioned. For traditional tastes, there is Greggio’s afternoon
tea service platter or Osborne’s Coburg cutlery collection, exclusive to
Harrods, with a pattern that charts the brand’s history. Christofle’s baroque-
inspired Garden of Eden cutlery by Marcel Wanders has engraved backs
with interlacing leaves and flowers inspired by a lush garden.
Georg Jensen ‘Pass It’ bowl £8,438. Available from Contemporary
Living, Second Floor
NEW FROM
WEDGWOOD
Not even Josiah Wedgwood himself
could have foreseen that a few
notes scribbled in his experiment
book back in 1759 would still be
referenced today. The pottery
technique he noted, of combining
two types of clay, created the Marble
design of the new Nature’s Canvas
collection, and gives each piece its
own unique pattern. Also available
in Limestone and Sandstone with
turquoise edges, this minimalist
collection is inspired by natural
materials and organic shapes.
From £8. Available from
Wedgwood, Second Floor
THE KITCHEN
GADGET
Combine design brains with business acumen
and you get twin brothers Richard and Antony
Joseph of stylish homewares company Joseph
Joseph, whose multi-award-winning ‘Index’
chopping boards are filed together, each with
a colour-coded and illustrated tab to indicate
the type of food they are used for. Fans of the
design can supplement the practical silver
version for this gold-plated edition, a one-of-a-
kind piece designed especially for Haute Harrods.
£1,649. Available from Cookshop,
Second Floor

BACCARAT DENIM
Casual denim and sophisticated crystal may not
seem like the most obvious of partnerships, but like
many artistic collaborations, the result is something
that surpasses all imagination. Elegant
design takes on a contemporary twist
as the crystal body of Baccarat’s
Midnight Zenith Chandelier, in
a new shade of midnight blue, is
suspended on a gold chain. The
crystal is cut to reflect optimum
light onto each of the dark blue
denim lamp shades.
£28,800. Available from Crystal
& Glass, Second Floor
The Collaboration
Cool French fragrance house Diptyque has joined forces with the
equally cool (and equally French) Saint-Louis cristallerie to create
a limited-edition Saint-Louis crystal flacon. This exquisitely crafted
hand-blown bottle, complete with black crystal dropper, holds
either Diptyque’s popular Philosykos or L’Ombre dans l’Eau
fragrances. Only 350 have been made, and each is presented
with a 200ml fragrance refill of your choice as well as
its own number engraved on the bottom.
£795. Available from Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie,
Fifth Floor, from November
THE HISTORIC ARTEFACT
The original Warwick Vase is not actually
a vase at all, nor is it actually
from Warwick. It is in fact a 10ft
Roman artefact excavated in 1769
from the site of Hadrian’s Villa
near Rome. The symmetry of design
and the distinct carvings meant it
took two years to be reconstructed, before
being acquired by the Earl of Warwick,
who displayed it for all to see. Arthur
Price has created a silver-plated model
that stands at a houseable 13” tall.
£37,500. Available from Silver Room,
Second Floor
THE ACCESSORY
Thankfully, smartphones are rapidly evolving from
their bulky and awkward predecessors into chic
fashion accessories. The BlackBerry Pearl 3G, in opal
pink, is one such device. Available exclusively on the
Vodafone network for Harrods, this new model is
sleek and light without compromising speed,
efficiency and the all-important social-networking
capabilities. It also packs in a 3.2 megapixel
camera with a flash, a media player for videos,
photos and music, as well as a built-in GPS for
location-based applications.
From £25 on a 24-month contract,
subject to credit check. Available from
Vodafone, Third Floor
 ©2
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 TRAVEL
HOT IN THE CITY
From Tokyo to London, an ever-changing skyline of the latest bars,
boutiques, bedrooms and eateries is enough to raise the temperature
of the most discerning traveller. By SUZANNE DUCKETT
PARIS
After going off the boil for a while, Paris’s restaurant
scene just turned up the gas. Top-name chefs fuse with
modern artists at Nomiya, an ultra-contemporary
architectural installation-cum-restaurant situated on the
rooftop of the Palais de Tokyo art museum. This grand
intersection of art and gastronomy, or culinary art as it’s
known, runs until December.
Upscale sushi restaurant Ozu, set inside Cinéaqua
aquarium (a little mean, perhaps), offers a remarkable
view of the city – though diners (mostly young and
French) are more fascinated by the sharks and exotic fish
swimming in the enormous two-storey tank.
Squat hopping is de rigueur right now. Yes, really.
But it is all done in the name of art. Since 2006, as
part of a citywide effort to legitimise popular but
technically illegal art venues, a number of ‘art squats’
have popped up. In the first arrondissement, 59 Rivoli
dominates a six-storey, mid-19th-century Haussmann-
era building and was taken over by a group of young,
rebellious artists in 1999. These days, its illegal status

seems to make tourists flock to it with even more.
Les Frigos, or ‘the refrigerators’, is a 43,000-square-
foot ex-frozen-storage depot accommodating 200
artists who live and work there. Although visitors
are officially welcome on designated days only, it’s
usually fine to show up and ask for a tour. This is a
general rule for squat hopping in Paris: some of these
places may look forbidding, but a cheeky wink can
help you wheedle your way in.
Jump a cab to Rue de Charonne in the 11th
arrondissement, where the Bastille once stood. It’s a quiet
street where fiercely independent fashion boutiques,
bookshops and furniture dealers sell shabby-chic wares.
And so to bed. The legendary Ritz hotel, with its calm
but charged atmosphere, is still a magnet for modern
performers, writers and royalty. Meanwhile, the newest
kid on the block, Hotel Gabriel Paris Marais, declares its
mission is ‘to purge the physical and emotional toxins From top Art meets haute cuisine at Nomiya
on the roof of the Palais de Tokyo; Coco
accumulated day in, day out through stress, absence of Chanel’s suite at the Paris Ritz sustains the
physical exercise, bad diet or lack of sleep’. dependable luxuries of an earlier age

NEW YORK
One of Manhattan’s more refined districts, the Upper East
Side (UES) is taking its turn to be in vogue. North of 59th
Street, east of Central Park, this affluent neighbourhood
is a magnet for stylish New Yorkers seeking cool
boutiques, cute cafés and paparazzi-free hotels. The
elegantly understated Lowell Hotel (28 East 63rd Street)
is a 72-room property decked out with embroidered silk
wallpaper, white marble bathrooms and beautifully worn
Persian rugs. This is where NYC’s biggest fashion and
music moguls come to hang out just below the social
radar (rumours abound that Madonna lived here
undisturbed for seven months).
If, like most New Yorkers, staying on-trend and
young-looking is a given, the recently opened Halo/Air
Salt Rooms are for you. A short taxi ride south of the
UES, the owner Ron Rofé, who swears by the curative
power of salt caves in his native Israel, has built a five-
The Lowell is where room spa where the walls, floor and ceiling are caked
NYC’s biggest fashion with thick Ukrainian salt. Just an hour hanging out fully
clothed in the saline-rich, space-aged caves is believed to
and music moguls come aid breathing and cleanse the skin. For a hidden spa gem
to hang out – rumours nearer the neighbourhood, OC61 spa and salon, tucked
away in a gorgeous old brownstone building in the heart
abound that Madonna of the UES, is a more homely and traditional place to
lived here undisturbed have a glow-inducing herbal facial.
From September, a short walk from the Upper East
for seven months Side, foodies visiting NYC’s Museum of Modern Art can
see an exhibition that explores the evolution of the
20th-century kitchen. Over in Greenwich Village,
moments from Tea & Sympathy – the city’s official
British outpost, which celebrates 20 years of PG Tips,
Yorkshire pudding and shepherd’s pie this year – another
English-style eatery resides in gastropub Rabbit in the
Moon (47 West 8th Street, between 5th and 6th
Avenues). Here, cool ex-pats chow down on classics of
MoMA Corbis
Clockwise from top left MoMA, hosting an British cuisine such as bangers and mash or fish and
exhibition of kitchenware; the contemporary
meets tradition at Antwerp’s De Witte Lelie chips surrounded by oil paintings of pearl-necklaced
Hotel; and NYC’s discreet Lowell Hotel 19th-century aristocrats from the home counties.
TRAVEL
ANTWERP
Antwerp’s blend of jewellery (it’s still the thoroughfare
for 70% of the world’s diamond trade), art, fashion
and buzzing social life is a mere three hours from
London by Eurostar.
Dominating a corner of Nationalestraat, a main
street littered with cutesy independent boutiques and
power-brand outlets in the centre of the city, is
ModeNatie, Antwerp’s creative fashion hub. Comprising a
design school, public workshops and occasional catwalk
shows, it also houses the much-fêted couture museum
ModeMuseum, which, from September, features a
retrospective of British milliner Stephen Jones.
Groenplaats Square is packed with traditional public
art – a statue of Rubens gets top billing – but for hip,
eclectic new installations, head to Studio Job, a recently
opened waterside ‘space’ run by Dutch furniture designer
Job Smeets. This former cigar factory, a tram ride from
the buzzing south district (Het Zuid, below), houses a
rotating ensemble of his and his friends’ best work.
Het Zuid (the South) is a former dockland converted
into cool apartments and littered with street cafés and
bars. The best of these is Bizzie Lizzie, the insiders’
drop-in snack-and-salad spot, and Café Grand Leroy,
which serves traditional bistro mussels and frites
in a hi-tech Japanese-style interior. On Saturday
4th September, the big ticket in Het Zuid is Laundry
Day, a street festival that revives the Flemish tradition
of women socialising while hanging out the washing.
Organisers expect 50,000 to party on the streets this
year, surrounded by 13 stages of music and lines of
colourful washing dangling between local buildings.
After all that, escape to the solace of discreet, hip
hideaway De Witte Lelie Hotel, a contemporary
masterpiece deep in the old city centre. This ornate
17th-century building has been renovated and redeveloped
by the owners to make each of the 11 rooms, resplendent
with white furnishings, high ceilings and shiny parquet
floors, even bigger.

 TRAVEL

TOKYO
The place to base yourself in Tokyo is Ginza, the hectic,
energetic and photogenic central district where retail,
nightlife and cafés all mingle together like a cultural
bento box. It’s a feast you won’t forget.
A hot Tokyo trend is for international designer brands
to run cafés within their retail space. The Gucci Café
(4–4–10 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo) this year introduced a light
lunch special with a heavy Italian influence, and is the only
place in the world you can buy Gucci-logoed chocolates.
Chanel fans make daily pilgrimages for macaroons and
Champagne to Le Jardin de Tweed’s roof garden atop
the Chanel building (3–5–3 Ginza, Chuo-ku). Refreshment
here comes from neighbouring restaurant Beige, run by
culinary granddaddy Alain Ducasse, of course. Maison
Hermès le Café (2F, 5–4–1 Ginza, Chuo-ku) serves
chocolate in the shape of their popular Kelly bag, while
on the third floor of Mikimoto (4–5–5 Ginza, Chuo-Ku),
Japan’s best pearl jewellery store, is a tea room where
one of the country’s best orchid teas is available.
As a change from staying at the excellent, but
predictable, central high-rise towers of the Park Hyatt,
LONDON
For years, London museum eateries have mostly offered
charmless cafeterias at odds with their institutions’
cutting-edge agendas and masterpiece-filled exhibition
halls. Now, a clutch of new restaurants has sprung up in
museums and other cultural institutions all over the city.
The splendid stained-glass, high-domed ceiling at the V&A
café in Knightsbridge sprawls the three Morris, Gamble
and Poynter rooms and was the first museum restaurant
in the world. It attracts everyone from thrifty art students
enjoying a sandwich to septuagenarians working their
way through a Sunday roast.
Whether you’re a young family or a newly dating
trendy, you can enjoy the same menu and dramatic views
of St Paul’s and the Gherkin from the Tate Modern
restaurant on the 7th floor. More grounding is chilling out
beneath the lofty white cloisters of the Gallery Mess Café
at the Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York Square, Chelsea,
which adds an extra dimension to your break after Deep in London’s East
perusing the gallery’s impressive collection of modern art.
Deep in London’s East End, Bethnal Green is not the
End, Bethnal Green’s
most obvious place for a gentrified hotel, but the old town old town hall has been
hall has been transformed into the chi-chi 98-room Town
Hall Hotel amid the barrow boys and pulsing markets.
transformed into a
Step from the hotel into Columbia Road’s Sunday flower chi-chi -roomer amid
market, Spitalfields’ weekend foodie, crafts and fashion
market and Saturday’s Broadway market, where the best
the barrow boys and
English produce is in abundance. pulsing markets
And for the wannabe anarchists amongst us, Punk
nightclub in Soho, with its velvety boudoir interior complete
with a stage, is still the place celebs like Kate Moss and
Lady Gaga misbehave in friendly, gauche surroundings.
Bands play, guests mingle, and there’s live rockaoke. HMN
For more information, please call 0845 618 2118, visit
Ginza Getty Images

Mandarin Oriental or Ritz-Carlton, the Four Seasons in
Chinzan-so, north of the city, has a traditional Japanese
suite on the 11th floor, decked out with futons, paper
screens, a cedar bathtub and views across 17 perfectly
manicured acres of gardens.
Abercrombie & Kent Private Travel on Harrods Lower
Ground Floor; or email ptharrods@abercrombiekent.co.uk
Suzanne Duckett contributes to The Sunday Times
Travel magazine and The Daily Telegraph
Clockwise from top left Tokyo’s central Ginza
district; the V&A’s sumptuous café; the new
hotel at the old town hall in Bethnal Green; and
the finest orchid tea awaits at Mikimoto


THE NEW BUSINESS CL ASS

Travel Goods, Second Floor

NEWS
CULTURAL
VENICE
With more art and architecture per square foot than any other city,
Venice rarely needs much promotion. However, in September it
becomes host to some of the finest cultural events of the year, including
the 67th Venice International Film Festival, this year chaired by director
and screenwriter Quentin Tarantino, and the 54th International Festival
of Contemporary Music. Those looking for a truly Venetian-style stay
will find it at the Bauer Hotel in San Marco Piazza. Opened in 1880,
the hotel is a testament to the city’s unique heritage, with baroque-
inspired architecture and its own collection of art and sculptures.
For more information, please call 0845 618 2118, visit Abercrombie
& Kent Private Travel on Harrods Lower Ground Floor; or email
ptharrods@abercrombiekent.co.uk
LUXURY
SERVICE
Trying to conquer over a million square
feet of shopping space, as well as
eating and getting pampered all in
one day can be tiring. But Harrods
Concierge can come to the rescue with
a variety of experience day packages
tailored to the needs of every type
of shopaholic. Upon booking, clients
will receive a personalised itinerary
and a gift card, as well as enjoy
afternoon tea in the Georgian
Restaurant and a spa treatment in
Urban Retreat or The Refinery.
For more information, please call
0207 225 6874, visit Harrods
Concierge, Lower Ground Floor, or
email concierge@harrods.com
 harrods.com
MINI FERRARI
At the tender age of 10, Enzo Ferrari saw his first motor race. This single event sparked
an ambition that led him to create one of the most spectactular cars in the racing
world. With a cool exterior and the deep hum of its powerful engine, the Ferrari is now
the ultimate head-turner, equivalent to an A-lister on the red carpet. Widely regarded
as one of the most beautiful cars in the world, the Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa 1/8-size
replica’s interior shows exactly how it was driven to victory at Sebring in 1958. Other
models include the Ferrari F10, Ferrari 458 and the full-size Ferrari F10 Steering Wheel
replica used in the F1 Championship just this year.
From £4,200. Available from Library & Games Room, Lower Ground Floor
Back to Nature
African safaris used to mean dusty drives through the desert in loud, heavy jeeps whilst
trying to spot a lion some 50 feet away, which was not particularly appealing to nature-
lovers – or to animals, for that matter. Sat discreetly on a hilltop in the very heart of Sabi
Sands Game Reserve, Leopard Hills offers a spectacularly close view of the surroundings
and an abundance of diverse wildlife, from elephants to exotic birds. Sabi Sands borders
the world-famous Kruger National Park, one of the largest protected ecosystems in Africa.
For more information, please call 0845 618 2118, visit Abercrombie & Kent Private
Travel on Harrods Lower Ground Floor; or email ptharrods@abercrombiekent.co.uk
Bottled Perfection
Jean Martell was a well-known perfectionist. In the cognac house
he founded in 1715 he would meticulously monitor every step of
its production, continually striving to create a perfect blend of
flavours that would take on the Martell name. The result was a
honey-coloured liquid, distinctive in flavour and distinguishable
by its gilded bottle. The characteristic cognac has since
enjoyed Hollywood fame, with cameo appearances in
Apocolypse Now and The Sopranos; it also features in the
Raymond Chandler novel Farewell, My Lovely. L’Or de Jean
Martell is created through a rigorous double distillation
of the clearest eaux de vie, resulting in a uniquely
smooth taste and a complex aroma of Oriental spices.
70cl, £2,800. Exclusive to Harrods. Available from The
Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com

An Oasis
of Luxury
WIN a five-night stay with full board at Hotel de Larache in
Atacama, Chile, courtesy of explora and The Mantis Group
Some 2,000 feet above sea level lies the oasis of
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, and the recently
renovated explora Hotel de Larache. The hotel’s 50
luxury rooms, situated around a central square, are
TV-free and designed to maximise silence and privacy;
each features a hydromassage bath, a small living
area, and beds designed for deep, uninterrupted sleep.
Meals are prepared by a French chef using local
ingredients and accompanied by Chilean wines; there is
an extensive patio area with views of both the Atacama
Desert and the Andean peaks; post-exploration relaxation
options include saunas, steam baths, heated open-air
Jacuzzis, a self-service bar, and four interconnected
outdoor swimming pools, two of which are heated by
solar panels. The wide range of explorations available
may be on foot, horseback, or bicycle; a couple of hours
long or a full day; gentle or more physically demanding.
The Atacama Desert’s high altitude, nearly nonexistent
cloud cover, dry air, and lack of light pollution and radio
interference make it a perfect location for astronomy.
In 2008, explora Atacama opened an observatory
just 100 metres from the central lodge and installed
a professional-grade telescope for stargazing.
You could win a five-night, all-inclusive stay with
full board for two people in Atacama at explora Hotel
de Larache, whose five-star services make it a most
civilised base from which to explore South America.
To enter, text CHILE followed by a space, then your
16-digit Rewards Card number, without spaces, to
80018*. Please note that this competition can only be
entered by those who have a Rewards Card number. If
you want to become a Rewards Card holder, please visit
harrods.com/rewards.
*Texts are free of charge
Competition closes at midnight on 27th September 2010
PRIZE DRAW
The prize: A five-night luxury all-inclusive stay
with full board for two people with explora
Atacama in Chile. Terms and conditions: The
closing date for entries is 27th September
2010. Entries will not be considered after
the closing date specified. The prize is
subject to availability, non-transferable and
must be taken by 27th September 2011.
No responsibility will be taken for delayed,
mislaid, lost or damaged entries, and proof
of sending will not be accepted as proof of
delivery. Entrants must be aged 18 or over.
Transfers to the location are included, but
flights to and from Chile are not. All additional
expenses must be settled before leaving the
hotel. No cash alternative is available. No
purchase necessary. The prize draw is open
to UK residents only, but not to employees of
Harrods or anyone professionally associated
with the prize draw. The prize will be
awarded to the first entry selected at random
after the closing date by an independent
judge. The judge’s decision is final, and no
correspondence will be entered into. The
winner will be notified within seven days of the
closing date. The name of the winner can be
obtained by checking Winners Gallery on www.
winnersgallery.co.uk up to four weeks after the
closing date. Prizes unclaimed after 60 days
will be deemed to have been forfeited and
Harrods reserves the right to offer the prize to
another entrant. Prize draws and competitions
are governed by English law and are subject to
the exclusive jurisdiction of the English Courts.
By entering a prize draw or competition, each
entrant agrees to be bound by these terms
and conditions. Data Protection: By entering
the prize draw, please be aware that Harrods
Magazine will not use any personal data
acquired in connection with this prize draw
unlawfully. Contact us if you would not like to
be contacted further. The promoter is Mantis
Group. For reservations or more information,
please call +44 (0) 148 342 5465 or email
Restofworld@mantiscollection.com
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 HARRODS DIRECTORY
CHILDREN HOME & GARDEN

Children’s International Designer Room

Children’s Formalwear Room
Harrods, Fourth Floor
Plan your career, design your life,
create your future
with klc

Chic Season Autumn 2010

BG Black&White collections

GREYCOAT PLACEMENTS
,ŝŐŚĐĂůŝďƌĞĚŽŵĞƐƟĐΘĐŚŝůĚĐĂƌĞ
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EĂŶŶŝĞƐDĂƚĞƌŶŝƚLJEƵƌƐĞƐŚĞĨƐ Begin your career in interior or garden design
ƵƚůĞƌƐŽƵƉůĞƐ'ĂƌĚĞŶĞƌƐWƐ • Highly regarded qualifications
• Help finding employment
>ŽŶĚŽŶh<KǀĞƌƐĞĂƐ • Flexible study options include full, time, part-time, open learning,
WĞƌŵĂŶĞŶƚ^ŚŽƌƚƚĞƌŵ & short courses
&ƵůůƟŵĞWĂƌƚƟŵĞ

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ǁǁǁŐƌĞLJĐŽĂƚƉůĂĐĞŵĞŶƚƐĐŽƵŬ
KLC School of Design, Unit 503 The Chambers,
ŝŶĨŽΛŐƌĞLJĐŽĂƚƉůĂĐĞŵĞŶƚƐĐŽƵŬ
Chelsea Harbour, London SW10 0XF
(0)20 7376 3377 • info@klc.co.uk • www.klc.co.uk

ENTERTAINMENT
FOR DETAILS ON HARRODS DIRECTORY ADVERTISING PLEASE CALL 020 7225 5783

harrods.com
IT TRAVEL

JKON LTD
YOUR LOCAL IT EXPERT!

IT Support remote & on-site

PC – Laptop Repair
Data Recovery
Business IT Setup
Quality, Fast, Reliable

7 days a week 14 Basil Street,

08:00–22:00 London SW3 1AJ
Member of the British jkon@jkon.eu
Computer Society TEL: +44 (0) 20 3402 5333
Serving businesses and FAX: +44 (0) 20 3402 5336
residential customers GSM: +44 (0) 75 3236 7015
www.jkon.eu

10% Discount to Harrods Rewards Cardholders

until 31st December 2010
JKON Ltd is a company registered in England & Wales No. 07260336

SECURITY

FOR DETAILS ON HARRODS DIRECTORY ADVERTISING PLEASE CALL 020 7225 5783
The Harrods Safe Deposit department
dates back to 1896, and is both the oldest
and least-seen part of the store.
We offer a choice of more than 3,000
different size safes that may be rented at
a yearly flat rate. At present we have
availability for the rental of safe deposit
boxes starting at £235, increasing in size
up to £1,300.
For more details please call 020 7893 8271,
email safe.deposit@harrods.com, or visit
the Harrods Safe Deposit located on the
Lower Ground Floor, entry via Door 3.

PUTTING YOUR
SECURITY FIRST
harrods.com
 ULTIMATE
The Ultimate
BUZZ
The humble bumble bee is often misunderstood. Far from being a small, fuzzy
irritant with a penchant for stinging, the bee has long been a source of inspiration
for musicians and artists; for a time, it even became the symbol of the French
Empire. It was through this last association that the house of Guerlain adopted
the bumble bee as its mascot in the mid-19th century. When Pierre-François-Pascal
Guerlain was asked to create a perfume for Empress Eugénie, he came up with
Eau de Cologne Impériale, housed in a bottle decorated with 69 bees. From this
point on, the bee held a special place at Guerlain, with homage now being paid to
it through a new limited-edition winged flacon. Handcrafted in Baccarat crystal,

Everybody’s talking about Guerlain’s
honeybee-inspired fragrance, all dressed
up in a limited-edition Baccarat bottle
the bottle – in a numbered series of only 46 – has been intricately cut to make
up the wings and body of a remarkably elegant bee. And this, in turn, inspired
Guerlain perfumer Thierry Wasser to create a suitable nectar – L’Abeille – an
entirely new Guerlain fragrance. “I followed the bee,” says Wasser, “and used big,
bright yellow flowers, the ones you see in summer.” The scent opens with green,
grassy floral top notes, and leads into a central accord of mimosa, orange blossom,
jasmine and, of course, honey notes.
Guerlain L’Abeille de Guerlain in Baccarat ‘Bee’ bottle 245ml, £12,000,
exclusive to Harrods. Available from Perfumery, Ground Floor
5RRPRI/X[XU\*URXQG)ORRU