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Dressmaker

Love your
Make it patterns
I N S I Z ES 7.99 | Issue 29
Nov/Dec 2017

10-20
*

Today! *APPROXIMATE UK SIZING

Make it Now, 18 Christmas


Party Looks
WEAR IT STYLISH DRESSES & SEPARATES

Tonight!
E A SY C R E P E TO P SEW
Academy...
LEARN HOW
TO M A ST E R
PERFECT
P L E AT S

Wrap
it up!
Elegant Capelet

Stitch Tweed Jacket


Sweet Kelly Bag
CSHAPING,
L E VDARTS
ER Easy for
AND FRENCH
SEAMS EXPLAINED
beginners

Look!
COULD A
O U R C MMH
YO U B E
PION
R
Brands we
LOVE
D R E S S A1 8 E?
K
FOR 2 0
Se e pa ge 30
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:15 Page 2
ISSUE 29

Welcome Contents
We love the run-up to Christmas here at YOUR FREE GIFT 30 Dressmaker of the Year
Dressmaker HQ; its the season to be 13 Party Dresses Your chance to get involved
Four fab frocks to stitch for and win the coveted title
merry and what could be nicer than the party season 33 Art Gallery Fabrics
making a stylish outfit to wear for the office party or 25 Pussy Bow Tops A showcase of our favourite
Loose, flowing tops with winter warmers
Christmas Day lunch? The best thing about making statement shoulder bows 41 Pretty In Pleats
your own is that you have the luxury of using a Perfect your fashion folds
favourite fabric in the colour of your choice, giving with a heritage technique
BONUS MAKES 55 Workshops
plenty of options for accessorising. Weve got two fab 19 Pleated Skirt
Chic gathered number in a Embroider your way to party
patterns: New Look 6245 offers four pussy-bow tops, classic cranberry hue dress success with these courses
from a silky stretch crepe in rich aubergine to a casual 22 Vintage Capelet 58 Sewing Detective
Ooze class and sophistication Lorna Knight talks sewing
version in a gorgeous Japanese floral print (p25). For in a look thats totally swish with glitzy fabric and lining
casual elegance, New Look 6322s quartet of dresses 44 Poppy Top 71 The Practicals
Master the art of working
are sure to be real crowd-pleasers (p13). The shaped Stitch a pretty fuss-free
number to wear all year round with tricky party materials
bodice creates a flattering line in all the right places; 51 Tweed Jacket 74 Interview: Lisa Comfort
plus, there are two sleeve variations and finishes. Be iconic in a classic We sit down for a chat with
Chanel-inspired garment the Sew Over It founder
Our talented dressmaker Amanda Walker works her 56 Dressing Gown
magic by transforming medium-weight linen into a Sweet dreams are guaranteed SHOWCASES
statement skirt (p19) and creates an eye-catching in this delicate delight 18 Simplicity Party Flair
62 Kelly Bag Turn heads when you walk
tweed check jacket with a nostalgic nod to Chanel Classic accessory in a into the big Christmas bash
(p51). Deputy Editor Janey also puts the spotlight on beautiful herringbone print 39 Simplicity Skirt Alert
64 Winter Wrap Heather Jacks outlines the
pleats and chats to the experts who have mastered importance of fabric choice
On-trend mustard yellow
this classic technique (p41). shawl with leather details 60 Simplicity Little
Before I go, dont forget to check out the Dressmaker 66 Raglan Sleeved Jacket Black Dresses
Cosy throw-on number for Classic numbers that are a
of the Year competition on page 30. Weve got a the winter months wardrobe must-have
wonderful line-up of celeb judges and some amazing
prizes up for grabs. RELAX AND READ REGULARS
4 Sew Central 5 Your Free Gift
We find out how youve been 11 Essential Kit
From me and the team, enjoy! gearing up for Christmas 24 Fabric Love
8 News 46 Reader Offer

Sarah
All the latest stitchy gossip 47 Spotlight on
Machine Upgrades
48 Giveaways
70 Coming Next Month
Sarah Crosland, Acting Editor

Meet our experts! Special offers


13 Free Pattern: New Look 6322
Knee-length dresses necklines to
suit any occasion
25 Free Pattern: New Look 6245
Combination tops with pleated
necklines and mixed trims
49 Simplicity 8258, 50% off
Achieve the perfect fit in your
JENNIFER LAUREN ANEKA TRUMAN everyday wardrobe
LORNA KNIGHT
Stitchy specialist Vintage pattern Made To Sew creator 49 Simplicity 2247, 50% off
and teacher maker and tutor and designer Contouring three-way dress
pattern for any shape

makeittoday.co.uk 3

welcome - contents.indd 3 03/11/2017 15:19


SEW l
r a
OUR

ce n t
Be inspired I N T E R E ST
FAV E S
ONLINE
Happy 10th birthday to Fine
Charming Stockings
Fabrics of Harrogate! The
traditional dressmaking
emporium specialises in
beautiful fabrics and prides
itself on a personal service. Its Your chance to show
full of the most exquisite
fabrics, wools, linens, cottons us how its done
and silks, as well as Christmas has arrived! Nows the time to parade your glitzy
haberdashery tools and fabric and dance around the sewing machine to your favourite
patterns for all your sewing Imagine waking up on
requirements, and helpful staff festive tunes. Its rewarding to stitch presents for loved ones and
Christmas morning to these
members take the time to surprise them with the gift of handmade. Not only can you be Liberty delights.
ensure you have all the thrifty, you can also create something personalised without blondedesign.
notions required for your worrying someone else will get them the same thing. Wed love blogspot.co.uk
project. finefabricsof to see what youve been making over the festive season,
harrogate.co.uk
whether its a gift or something lovely for yourself. Make sure
you share your creations with us on Facebook, Twitter
or Instagram.

W E H E A RT. . .
Its that season once again, where you
can cosy up in front of the fireplace
with your winter sewing projects laid A simple patchwork stocking
out in front of you. STOFF & STIL has would make a great gift.
released its new inspiring autumn/ blog.basicgrey.com
winter collection just in time filled

Over to you
ON FACEBOOK AND TWITTER,
with ideas, great fabrics and new
patterns for these precious moments.
Whether youre sewing for yourself,
your home or even the little ones,
WE ASKED: WHAT ARE YOUR theres tons of patterns to get your
GO-TO FABRICS FOR WINTER? hands on. Whats more, Scandinavias
number one supplier of fabrics and
I love brightly haberdashery is now available to buy
coloured and in the UK! stoffstil.co.uk
patterned viscose. It

Your latest makes


Fill these mini makes with
drapes beautifully and sweet treats and hang along
is versatile the fireplace. shabbyfabrics.
CAROLINE HARRIS- blogspot.co.uk
AEBVTIVS
I look for fabrics that Ive been working on How to get in touch
a corset made out of
offer insulation, so it real tape measures; I The top is a New Look
Write to the team:
Sew Central, Make It Today,
has to be something previously made 6471 and I bought the 1 Phoenix Court, Hawkins
with a high wool a sea-inspired one, brushed jersey from a Road, Colchester, CO2 8JY
content for outerwear using leftover market in France. I made Email: Send your pictures to
DI KENDALL organza and a couple of changes to elena.thompson
an old dress. the pattern to add length @aceville.co.uk
Every year, I make Ellie Jo Vitesse, to my short stature. Tweet: @makeittodaymag
a fabulous tweed via Twitter Di Kendall, via or visit twitter.com/
makeittodaymag
number; this winter Youre guaranteed to Facebook
Follow: instagram.com/
Im going to make get the perfect fit with A great fabric find! We love
makeitdressmaker
a beautiful skirt those. Amazing how youve altered the
makes, Ellie! pattern to suit your style. Join our sewing hub at
PHOEBE HAYNES facebook.com/
makeittodaymag
FOR NEXT TIME: YO U W I N . . . Readers with featured makes Browse our boards:
win a bundle of three new Habico Vlieseline
What are your sewing pre-packs, perfect for those little projects and
pinterest.com/
resolutions for 2018? trying before buying. ladysewandsew.co.uk
makeittodaymag

4 makeittoday.co.uk
8 patterns
GLAMOROUS EVENING
LOOKS WITH YOUR

free

Your free

patterns
Tis the season for parties galore, so why not
prep an armoury of outfits that can take you
from drab to fab presto? With New Look
6245 and 6322, youll have the
option to create four statement tops,
plus an array of chic frocks.

Weve added key techniques


from our dressmakers to help
you create the perfect garments

Whats your size?


When selecting a pattern, it is important to use your body
measurements, not your ready-to-wear size. The style of
the garment will also determine the fit, so check your
proportions against the patterns chart. If you are between
sizes, opt for the smaller one if youre small-boned or would
like a close fit, and the larger one if you prefer a loose fit. Find
out how to take accurate measurements, increase the size
of a dart, and view size charts at simplicitynewlook.com.

makeittoday.co.uk 5
YOUR FREE PATTERNS

Easy Party Frocks and Tops...


When youre not tucked up in layers of sweaters and scarves,
Christmastime is the perfect opportunity to don your finery, which is
where this months patterns step in! New Look 6245 offers four loose and
flowy tops that bring statement finesse with a gathered neckline and bold
bow that can be tied at the shoulder. Not just suitable for opulent silky
types, you can also make the most of your cotton stash, as with our floral
design on the previous page. New Look 6322, meanwhile, is this seasons
answer to the Little Black Dress. A must for any dressmakers capsule
collection, the dress comes with four skirt and bodice variations to help
perfectly flatter your figure. You also have the choice of a lace neckline
with option B and a pretty A-line hem with option C.

Choose a bold floral


pattern for year-round chic

Silky types with a


soft drape will
create a luxe look

NEXT
MONTHS
FREE GIFTS...
GET YOURS ON
21ST DECEMBER 2017

6 makeittoday.co.uk
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 15:06 Page 7
O H J AC K I E !
With supple knit fit and flare
frocks at the top of our wish list, this
dreamy two-way dress pattern from
Victory is truly swoon-some. Closure-
free and quick to make, it features
flattering seams and a high neckline
for easy elegance guaranteed. Stitch
Jackie in a light two-way stretch
jersey, ponte or velour for
a delectable silhouette pleaser:
gorgeous in claret. 10.50,
victorypatterns.com

Make it,
buy it,
Kristiann Boos

love it
Put these on your
list for Santa

C OV E R G I R L S
Make some room on the coffee table,
ladies this stunning collection of
125 years of pioneering fashion
photography demands to be touched!
Puppy Love Vogue: The Covers by Dodie Kazanjian
Give your pooch the gift of crushed velvet and put your best beautifully captures the visual evolution
paw forward this party season! This dapper bow tie is the of a publishing empire, featuring all
perfect way to ensure your best friend looks every bit as stylish manner of celebrated sirens from
Grace Kelly to Cher. 45,
as you do at Christmas. Available in four colours we just love
abramsandchronicle.co.uk
the Purple Pomp. Party Luxe Velvet Dog Bow Tie, 15.50,
notonthehighstreet.com

8 makeittoday.co.uk

R NEWS.indd 8 03/11/2017 15:07


S E W S P EC I A L !
Christma
Stitch the season to be jolly with the
polished Janome 230DC! Featuring a C R AC
KERS
s
Why not try?
wealth of easy-to-use features, including
30 built-in stitch settings, speed
controller, foot pressure adjustment
and no-fuss threading, its the dream
machine for both beginners and OUR FAVOURITE PARTY DRESS PATTERNS
confident dressmakers, and
light enough to carry to your
THE LANEWAY DRESS
New Year classes. Special
Comfort and elegance

Fashion Museum Bath


price 299 (RRP 349),
in perfect harmony!
janome.co.uk EDIT
C H OO R S Jennifer Laurens 1940s
ICE A-line style features
double open-ended
darts, multiple cups,
inset pockets and
a distinctive
Amazing Lace asymmetrical or
Showcasing the artistry and versatility of centred collar. Sizes
a luxury fabric beloved of crafters and 6-24, 10 (approx),
catwalks alike, Lace in Fashion catalogues jenniferlauren
The
some of the most exquisite examples of this vintage.com Laneway Dress
enduring textile, from the 1660s silver tissue
dress to pieces worn by Balmain, Balenciaga REETA MIDI
and Bond heroines: just breathtaking. Open SHIRT DRESS
until 1st January 2018, fashionmuseum.co.uk Go with the flow
during the festive
celebrations with this
relaxed yet stylish frock
pattern, which includes
front button closure,
yoked bodice, turn-up
sleeves and breast
pockets with box
pleats. Sizes 4-22,
from 10 (approx),
namedclothing.com
Reeta Midi
Daisy Darling Millinery

Shirt Dress
1940S WRAP DRESS
This firm favourite from
the Sew Over It archives
is a dream for the
demands of holiday
season. Oozing
sophistication and
Wow Bazaar easy glam, with a
Treat yourself to a little handmade happy wrap front bodice, an
time. The Vintage Bazaar returns to The A-line skirt and pretty
Corn Exchange in Devizes, Wiltshire, with its shoulder pleats. Sizes
famed treasure trove of stunning one-off 8-20, 8.50 (PDF),
pieces, plus trims, ribbons and haberdashery 14.50 (paper),
goodies, so grab your fix of bygone sewoverit.co.uk
beautification. Saturday 25th November,
thevintagebazaar.blogspot.com 1940s
Wrap Dress

A N D F I N A L LY
TWO- The inspirational Creative Craft Show
SAV V Y L I N I N G S FOR-ONE returns to the NEC, and as a special
Take good care of your seasonal garb and TICKETS WITH reader offer were offering you the chance
send in the reinforcements! Vlieselines CODE OV74 to buy one, get one free! Dont miss this
F220 Fusible Interlining is lovely and crafting extravaganza of workshops,
lightweight: just what you need to seal the catwalk shows and supplies. Order
deal and make the finishing touches to online and enter code OV74 for your
your festive fashions. F220 Fusible free ticket. 14, 15th-18th March 2018,
Interlining from 3 per metre, ichfevents.co.uk
crafts@stockistenquiries.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 9

R NEWS.indd 9 03/11/2017 15:08


MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:16 Page 10

presents

Fittingly Sew 2
Measure
up

Build garments from


templates or build
your own pieces

own Print full-sized


Tr y out your r Patterns from your
u
fabrics on yo
Take a garments printer
graphic
image ...
... using reflections & effects, create
exciting and unique fabric patterns
For more information please visit: softbyte.co.uk
Fa s t e n u p !
Gift yourself with our snazzy
D
ressmakers know that its all
about the finishing touches.
selection of fastenings Its amazing how quickly you
can become a magpie and get drawn
to a particular fastening before
anything else. So snap up our
selection of the fanciest buttons,
buckles and zips on offer. Whether
youre embellishing a glitzy party
dress, or perhaps wanting to add
to your ever-growing Christmas list,
youre sure to find something to put
a twinkle in your eye.

1 Hemline hooks and eyes in


black, size 1, 1.20, thevillage
2 haberdashery.co.uk
1 66
2 Prym rhinestone zip puller
round in silver, 4.80,
abakhan.co.uk
3 Chinese frog twisted fastener
in gold, 1.45, josyrose.com
4
4 4 Deco design round
3 buttons, 1-1.65,
loopknittingshop.com
5 Powder blue square
55 plastic sew-on snap
fasteners, 1.75-2.50,
stonefabrics.co.uk
7 6 Tilda Harvest fabric covered
buttons 15mm, 4.65 for nine,
groves@stockist
enquiries.co.uk
7 Frog fastening 35mm
in gold, 3.75 for two,
backstitch.co.uk
8 Pastel zip bundle 17cm, 9.36
for 12, plushaddict.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 11
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:51 Page 12

The worlds most innovative fabrics

Linton Tweeds design and weave luxury fabrics for the


worlds most exclusive fashion houses

See our website for the Linton Direct collection:


www.lintondirect.co.uk
YO U R
FREE
FOUR TWIRL-WORTHY Pattern

Party
Dresses
Timeless frocks
youll reach for
again and again
Everyone wants to
look their best at
the annual
Christmas party
Jayne and more
importantly
Cordle avoid the
dreaded
dilemma of matching your dress with
a fellow guest! So what better way to
make an entrance in style than with a
handmade pattern thats perfectly
tailored to you. New Look 6322 offers
four different skirt and bodice
variations to choose from: if youre not
a fan of the A-line, you can switch to a
swing; pop on some sleeves or dare to
go bare; plus, get creative with lace to
add interest to the neckline. The subtle
pleating at the waist will also give you
that enviable hourglass shaping
through the hips, whatever design you
choose to stitch. Its simple, classic and
just what you need for your winter soires!

YOUR FREE
PATTERN
WITH FOUR
STUNNING
LOOKS

makeittoday.co.uk 13
YO U R
FREE
Pattern OPTION C

6322

Go sleeveless
with option D
Shape Smart
For those of us not blessed
with Marilyn Monroes
hourglass curves, its still
possible to fake this vintage
look with New Look 6322.
The pattern combines pleats
at the bust to help accentuate
your top half, followed by a
curved waistline with subtle
darts to draw attention to
your waist. Pair with the holy
grail of hemlines the A-line
which is universally
flattering on most body
shapes. Alternatively, for
maximum swish while
dancing, choose variation
B and C.

Keep accessories
and shoes minimal
in style this dress
will speak for itself

FA B R I C

Love Your Lace GET THE LOOK! Bracelet 12, Ben De Lisi, debenhams.com

Tempted to make variation B? Lace can


require some TLC before you get started, but
a little prep will ensure this project is kept
headache-free. Before you get started, gently
soften the lace by soaking it in washing
powder as it will often be stiff when you first Who says florals are just
purchase it. If youve chosen a lace with an
open weave, buy extra and practise stitching
for springtime? Make a
with it first as it can be prone to disappearing statement with bold
into the feed dog of your machine. One way to blooms this winter and
avoid this is to sew a seam down the centre of youre sure to hit the glam
a cotton fabric scrap; leave the needle down, factor. This coral and blue
lift the presser and place the lace underneath stretch sateen is medium-
before continuing to sew. This will give you a weight with a muted
good grasp of working with the material sheen that catches the
before you get started on your dress. light. 10.99 per metre,
minervacrafts.com

14
13 makeittoday.co.uk
YO U R
FREE
Pattern

OPTION D

6322 J AY N E S TO P T I P S
Before removing the pins from the
pattern, make sure that all the markings
have been transferred precisely, as these
are angled to give shape to the bodice.
Snip the front facing as close to the
stitching as you can, layering to a point
at the centre front. Under-stitching the
facing will help to keep it down.
Neaten the raw edge down the back of
the bodice and skirt with a zigzag stitch.
Catch the joined bodice and skirt so it
folds towards the bodice, this will help
when putting in the zip.
After stitching down the right side of the
zip, pin the left side at the bodice waist to
make sure it lines up with the right side
before stitching or it may be lopsided.

When joining the


skirt to the bodice
back on variation
D, make sure that
both sets of darts
match together so they run
in a straight line down the
back of the dress
JAYNE CORDLE, DESIGNER

Dart Dimensions
Darts are a simple way to add dimension to a
garment and will help show off the contours of
your body. Before you start, choose a marking
tool, such as a washable fabric pen, pencil or
tailors chalk successful darts always start
with careful marking! Once the darts have
been sewn, make sure they are crisply finished
with your iron. For best results, press them in
the opposite direction of your body shape.
For vertical darts, such as waist or contour
darts, press them towards the side seam.

Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 15
YO U R
FREE
Pattern

OPTION A

Variation A
6322

offers up a classic
boatneck design

Sleeve Notes
Capped sleeves are a breeze with variation
A and C, but if youre new to this
technique, patience is key! If your sleeve
is becoming bumpy and uneven, or youve
caught too much fabric, remember that
you can always unpick it and go back to the
start sometimes different fabrics will ease
in better than others. Additionally, if you
find that one row of tacking is not enough
to get the placement that you need, add
in a second row to gain more control.

Stretch
sateen is
great for
creating
figure-hugging finery,
it contains a small
amount of elastic that
will hold the structure
of the dress without
making it uncomfortable
to wear
JAYNE CORDLE,
DESIGNER

why
NOT
try? FLOATING BOUQUET
IN IVORY
THIN STRIPE IN CITRON TRIANGLES IN
MAGENTA

New Look 6322 also works well with knits, so once youve finished
whipping up your celebration garb, why not pick up a soft jersey
from Cloud 9s collection? Choose from an array of prints,
including futuristic florals or bright stripes and triangles.
For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk/cloud9

16 makeittoday.co.uk
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:19 Page 17
ase
owc

Party Flair
Sh

Fabric focus
Heather Jacks, brand
ambassador for Simplicity,
on a combination dress
Mixing and matching with
a dress pattern is one of
lifes true pleasures and Cherry Blossoms Cotton
with New Look 6392, youre Sateen, 12.20 per metre,
spoiled for choice in terms thesplendidstitch.co.uk
of both frock design and
fabric combinations. This
five-way party package is
your one-stop essential for
every event, featuring elegant lace overlays,
contrast yoke and sleeves, sweetheart necklines
and a full, pleated skirt, as well as a choice of sash
and sleeve styles. Master dart variations, sheer
stitching, neck and armhole binding, plus stylish
sash technique, as you experiment with organza or
chiffon overlays and contrast sheer yokes. Silk Chiffon Silken
Alternatively, make option D in satin and use the Cascade, 9 per metre,
wrong side of the fabric for the yoke, binding it with sewoverit.co.uk
the right side for understated elegance. Fabulous fit
and flare frocks guaranteed just add heels! 6.95,
visit simplicitynewlook.com
for size details.

GET IT RIGHT:
Contrast Stitching
Have fun with contrasts: Floral Embroidered Cotton
make the skirt from Sateen, 4.99 per metre,
brocade and the bodice minervacrafts.com
from satin, then tie the
look together with a belt
made from both fabrics.
Check nape to waist measurement,
Shantung Sense
as this dress needs to sit at your natural Shantung is a type of
waistline. Tie a ribbon round yourself, dupioni with distinctive
and get a friend to help. slubs in a regular pattern.
Dont fancy binding? Line the bodice To avoid fraying, overlock
by cutting an exact copy in lining, then all edges or stitch the ends
stitch, right sides together, finishing the before washing. Trim the
shoulder seams last. cut edges with pinking
Dont use Guipure lace if youre a shears and finish with an
beginner try a softer, smaller patterned overlocker, zigzag stitch or
lace in polyester which wont add bulk to French seams. When
seams or pleats. starting a new seam, dont
backstitch. Hold both
threads to prevent fabric
being sucked into the
machine plate, and keep
the material taut. Place
patterns are available from pins in the allowances,
pinned parallel to the
all good sewing shops and websites. selvedge. Use a sharp 60/8
Visit simplicitynewlook.com or call or 70/10 needle, a
lightweight thread and a
0161 480 8734 for stockist information. 2-2.5mm stitch length.

18 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect

VERY BERRY

Pleated
Skirt
Make an entrance
with a chic number
in a classic hue
The weather may be getting chillier, but thats
no reason to pack away your skirts until the
summertime with boots in one hand and a
leather jacket in the other, they can soon be
transformed into a year-round staple! Why not
get started with this chic design by Amanda
Walker? It combines big and bold inverted
pleats with a yoke waistband thatll hug your
curves in all the right places.

Amanda
Walker

DOWNLOAD THE
PATTERN FROM
makeittoday.co.uk

Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 19
Beginnproejrect
ESSENTIAL KIT Pleated
Fabric, 1.3m
Coordinating thread Skirt
Concealed zip, 9in
1Download, print and cut
out the pattern from
makeittoday.co.uk. Position
CUTTING GUIDE the pleat guide on the top edge
FRONT YOKE: Cut two on fold of a folded lower skirt rectangle,
BACK YOKE: Cut two on fold then mark each position with a
FRONT AND BACK LOWER small clip and neaten the side
SKIRT: Cut two based on your edges. Repeat for the other
chosen measurements below lower skirt piece.
Small: 68cm x 128cm

2
Medium: 68cm x 131cm Using the guide, fold and pin
Large: 68cm x 133cm four box pleats; the seam
1.5cm seam allowances allowance should be showing on
used throughout both edges beside the outer pleats.
Machine-stitch across the top of
each pleat to secure, then sew the
darts to the two back yoke pieces:
one will become the lining. Match
the side seam on the front yoke to
one of the back yokes, right sides
together, and stitch. Repeat for
the remaining pieces.

3 Open the seam allowances


and press flat. Lay one set of
yokes on top of the other, right
sides together. Match the top
waist edges, then pin and sew.
Press the seam allowances
towards the lining yoke and
under-stitch, starting and
stopping 4cm from each end.
The skirt could be Lay the pleated rectangles on top
of each other, right sides together.
cut much longer Match the side edges, then pin and
and made up in sew together, leaving a 9cm
a billowing taffeta unstitched gap at the top of the
lefthand side seam to insert a zip.
material for
a dramatic
evening look 4 With right side of the yoke and
skirt facing, match the open

GET THE LOOK! Jacket 58, riverisland.com. Top 8.99, Boots 29.99, hm.com
end of the yoke to the gap in the
AMANDA WALKER, side seam. Match the side seams
of the yoke and skirt together, then
DESIGNER around to the opposite end of the
yoke and the open gap in the skirt.
Pin, then stitch together.

5 To insert the concealed


zip into the left-hand side
seam, press the seam allowances
of the skirt up towards the yoke.
Fold in the seam allowance along
the base of the lining yoke and
position over the seam, across
the top of the pleats. Pin in place,
sandwiching the seam allowances
inside the yoke. Fold in the seam
allowance on each side of the zip,
then slip-stitch the lining yoke to
secure. Neaten around the base of
the skirt, press up a 3cm hem,
then secure in place.

20 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect

Invest in da
conceale re
zipper befo
tackling tthis
projec

Under
and Over
Under-stitching is a line of
stitches made on the inside of
a garment around a neckline
facing or, as in this project,
the top of a yoke. The seam
allowances of the two sewn
pieces are pressed towards the
yoke or facing, then a stitching
line is made very close to the
seam line on the right side of
the fabric, through both the
facing or yoke and the seam
allowances. This will help it
to roll inside the garment,
ensuring a clean smooth edge.

FA B R I C

Lady McElroy Deep


Cranberry Red Linen
This 100% cotton linen from Lady
McElroy comes in a lucious deep
cranberry red, and the weight
means its perfect for maximising
the inverted pleat look. 15 per
metre, threadheadfabrics.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 21
Beginnproejrect
SWEEPING STATEMENT

Vintage
Capelet
Cloak yourself in glory with
timeless outdoor chic
Theres something irresistibly cool about a
cape, uniting fashion icons down the ages
with its simple, sweeping elegance and full,
Amanda flowing lines. With a few adjustments to the
hem length and collar, you can create a
Walker striking silhouette with the minimum of
fabric. Comfortable and feminine, this
capelet will add class to any ensemble with its flattering double-
breasted design, contrast faux fur collar and button detail.
Channel your inner glamour-puss for a look thats totally swish!

Vintage 3 Using a 1cm seam

capelet allowance, stitch around


the neckline, down the front

1Download and cut out


the pattern from
makeittoday.co.uk. Attach
and around the curved hem,
leaving a gap on one straight
front edge. Trim the bulk and
interfacing to the wrong side clip around the neckline.
of the two front facing panels, Turn the cape out through
ESSENTIAL KIT and iron some to the back of the gap and tease out the
Main fabric, 1m x 1.5m the fabric collar. With the right corners and seams. Press,
Lining, 1m x 1.5m sides of the fabric and lining then slip-stitch closed.
Faux fur trim together, pin and stitch the
Coordinating thread
Fusible interfacing, medium
weight, 50cm
outer edges using a 1cm seam
allowance. Trim the bulk, then
turn the collar out and press.
4Make two buttonholes on
the right-hand side of the
cape, plus one on the top left.
Buttons: four black, one flat Check the angle of the

2 Line up the centre of the


collar and the back neck
buttonholes is parallel with the
neckline and base of the cape.
edge. Pin the collar around the Stitch two buttons in the
neckline, matching the front corresponding place on the
edges to the notches on the opposite side, then another
cape, then stitch using a 1cm two to complete the double-
allowance. Place the lining on breasted effect. Sew a small
the main fabric, right sides flat button to the inside of the
together, matching necklines, left-hand side.
front edges and curved hems.
Lay each fabric and lining
piece out and pin the edges.

PRESS FOR SUCCESS


If you are using faux fur for the collar, press
the edges from the lining side. Otherwise,
the iron may mark the main fabric.

22 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect
FA B R I C

Tickled Pink
This capelet requires only a
small amount of tweed and
suits larger prints such as
heritage houndstooth.
Try a scrumptious cerise
and black tweed blend in
hot pink and a black
check. 14.90 per metre,
dragonflyfabrics.co.uk

Linton Tweed
why
NOT
Vintage capes require thicker, structured
materials, making them ideal for tweed and
wool blends. Choose a vibrant hot pink with a
try? metallic thread, a purple dogtooth or a twisted
cream and gold yarn for seasonal sparkle.
From 34 per metre, lintondirect.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 23
FA B R I C

Winter Elegance
Tis the season to be stylish! If youre counting down the days till
the party season like us, then youre in good hands. When it
comes to dressmaking, its all about going for luxury and picking
those fabrics youve been lusting over all year think silks, velvet
and lace. As well as dressing to impress, you also want to keep
warm and snug during the cold days, so its the perfect time to
embrace knits and chunkier materials.

1 3

5
GET THE LOOK! Dress 55, dorothyperkins.com

1. W I N T E R N I G H T S : Blossom Viscose Night, 18, fabricgodmother.co.uk


2. T I M E L E S S P R I N T : Reversible Floral Print Violet Satin, 9.99 per metre,
adamrossfabrics.co.uk 3. S H I M M E R & S H I N E : Metallic Pleated Knit, 13
per metre, moresewing.co.uk 4. H E AV E N LY D R A P E : Mauve Floral Digital
Chiffon Print, 13.50 per metre, timelessfabrics.co.uk 5. LU X U RY F L O R A L S :
Italian Floral Print Spandex Jacquard, 27.95 per metre, abakhan.co.uk

24 makeittoday.co.uk
YO U R
FREE
Pattern

COTTON, CREPE OR SATIN

Pussy
Bow Top Party season
stitching thats
wrapped up in style!
For an instant shot of feminine glam
that delicately frames your features,
you cant beat a billowy bow a style
Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent
made famous in some of their most
memorable designs. For those of
us angling to add easy luxe to our
seasonal wardrobe, New Look
6245 is the gift that keeps on
giving, thanks to its bow fastening,
gathered neckline and choice of
straight, curved or double-layered
hem, which you can embellish with a
lace trim for extra wow factor. Master
darts, underlays and armhole edging
in soft cotton or a celebratory sateen,
crepe or georgette. Thanks to its
relaxed shaping, its forgiving to all
figures; just pair with a tailored pencil
or jeans, and go chic, sleek, special
and unique with this versatile party
pattern. Whats new, pussy cat?

YOUR FREE
PATTERN
WITH FOUR
GORGEOUS
LOOKS

Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 25
YO U R
FREE
Pattern
Pleasing Pleats
To make the distinct centre pleats in the front
and back, on the inside, bring the broken lines
together and stitch. Press the pleat flat,
bringing the stitching to the centre. To make
the others, on the inside, bring the broken
lines together and sew, then press the pleats
towards the centre and tack the upper edge.
Stay-stitch the front and back neck edges.
OPTION D
With right sides together, sew the front to the
back at the side seams. For view Cs pleats on
6245
the front and back underlay, on the inside,
bring the broken lines together and sew.
Press the pleats from the centre and tack the
top. Stay-stitch the front and back neck edges.

FA B R I C

GET THE LOOK! Purple Top: Skirt 24.99, Bag 19.99, both from tkmaxx.com. Yellow Top: Jeans 24.99, tkmaxx.com. Bracelet from a selection at debenhams.com
Chaffinch Bough Cotton
Lawn Old Gold
Create dynamic details with this
magnificent oriental cotton print.
Burnished coral blooms cluster around
electric blue and turquoise birdies,
peppered with soft flecks of peach,
porcelain and ochre. 15 per metre,
fabricgodmother.co.uk

Choose an extra fine


thread so the topstitching
beds in and disappears

Lace Lessons
To create the lace trim in option B, make sure
you have pressed up the hem allowance on the
lower edge. To form the narrow hem, tuck
under the raw edge to meet the crease. Press,
then stitch the hem in place. Then, on the
outside, lap the hemmed edge of the front and
back, 1cm over the edge of the lace, turning
Sarah under and lapping the ends of the lace at one
side seam. Sew over the pressed hem
Oecken stitching, making sure to catch the lace on
the underside. Slip-stitch the ends of the lace
together to finish.

26 makeittoday.co.uk
YO U R
FREE
Pattern

OPTION A
Get The Edge
6245
For a neat armhole, first open out one edge of
single-fold bias tape. With right sides together,
pin to the armhole with the crease 1cm from
the raw edge. Stitch using a 1cm allowance,
then trim and clip the curved allowance.
Under-stitch, then turn the tape to the inside
and press. Tack closer to the inner edge, then
top-stitch. Press under 1cm on the ends of the
front and back facings, then sew. Press under
1cm along the notch-free edge. With right
sides together, pin the facings to the
neck edge front and back, forming a
casing. Stitch, then layer the seams.
Under-stitch the facing, then press to
the inside. Tack, then top-stitch.

J AY N E S
TO P T I P S
Mark the centre front and
back before removing the
pattern, as this forms part
of the centre front pleat.
Remember to transfer the
buttonhole marking, and
make the buttonhole for
the drawstring before
adding the front facing.
Try not to stretch the bias
tape when attaching it to
the armhole, or else it will
FA B R I C create a wrinkled edge.

Measure and tack


the line where the
topstitching needs
to go, so it is even
and straight

Prada Self Lined


Stretch Crepe
Give yourself double the
potential for luxe loveliness
with this slinky, double-sided
material. Offering matt and Jayne
shiny finishes, its anti-static
and comes in a rainbow of Cordle
colours for every conceivable
event. 13.99 per metre,
minervacrafts.co.uk
Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 27
YO U R
FREE
Pattern

Finishing Touches
For your neck and strap, stitch the ends of the drawstring
and tie sections. Fold the drawstring and tie in half,
lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch using a 1cm seam
allowance, leaving an opening for turning, then trim the
seam and corners. Turn the drawstring right side out, then
press. Slip-stitch the opening edges together. For view A or
B, on the outside, you then insert the drawstring through
the casing, starting and ending at the buttonhole opening
at the front. For view C or D, insert through the casing,
but start at the right shoulder opening.

why NOT try?

FLORAL SLINKY FLORAL SATEEN ABSTRACT CRINKLE

Whether you go for a highly textured crinkle satin or a more


conventional cotton sateen, this pattern is sure to offer
endless possibilities for fancy fabric. Choose a fluid John
Kaldor oriental, a silky cherry blossom or a sumptuous mauve
leopard abstract. From 8.99 per metre, minervacrafts.com

28 makeittoday.co.uk
*p029 CHRISTMAS feature_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:43 Page 29

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Stitch X Stitch offer a selection of sewing
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Christmas
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Wish List
We've got Christmas wrapped up with this handpicked
selection of goodies to add to your wishlist!

JANOME
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Bringing new life to creations with the world, says Sew Magazine editor Free
existing items with
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30 makeittoday.co.uk
IN ASSOCIATION WITH

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PRESS

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Super-talented designer, Popular sewing star Miss Beloved former Sewing Our first Dressmaker of Showstopping queen of
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makeittoday.co.uk 31
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:52 Page 32

At L&C Fabrics -
We are a family run business with a wide range of fabrics
for quilting, dressmaking, sewing, homewares and crafts.
Fabrics for Patchwork, Dress making, Upholstery
Waddings, Haberdashery, Janome sewing machines,
Service and repair sewing machines,
Patchwork Classes, Workshop, Gift vouchers.
NEW SHOP:
Unit 2, Albion Street, Hull HU1 3TE
Tel: 01482 325 072
Opening Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 10am-3:45pm, Saturday, 10am-3pm
217-219 Grimsby Road, Cleethorpes DN35 7HB
Tel: 01472 600874
Opening Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9.30am-4pm
Email: lcfabrics@live.co.uk
www.lcfabrics.co.uk
FREE CAR PARKING!
FA B R I C It may be chilly outside, but that doesnt
mean you cant invigorate your creative
palette with juicy pops of saturated
colour. This month, were cuddling up
with some of the luscious prints in the
Art Gallery Fabrics Fusions collection.
Embellish your winter wear with a
medley of vibrant infusionsfrom AGF
with AGF Fusions designers, as we explore the eclecticism
and romance of the Spices and
Indulge in a Woodlands ranges. Many of these
delectable prints are available in knit
little seasonal and rayon as well as premium cotton,
so you can practise new skills whilst
spice this creating gorgeously supple pieces that
flatter your natural shape as well as
autumn your personality. Turn over for our pick
of the perfect designs to help you spice
up your life!
Art Gallery Fabrics Fusions Spices Paparounes

Continues overleaf
makeittoday.co.uk 33
Fabric Spices Selection

Willow Blooms Spices by Pat Bravo Joy Plante Spices by Bari J

SPICES:Rich colours reminiscent of


a faraway land combined with lush
florals and subtle geometrics bring
Spices Fusions to life! Stand out this
season with a stylish dress made
with the Paparounes Spices Knit
by Katarina Roccella or add a
little vintage inspired twist to your

Top kniet
wardrobe with the Impressions Spices
print by Pat Bravo. No matter what
choic Paparounes Spices by Katarina Roccella
you make, these luscious prints will
take your projects to the next level!

R
ID E A L F O

Vintayglee
Thrive Spices by Bonnie Christine St Impressions Spices by Pat Bravo Op Art Spices by Pat Bravo

For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk/fusions


34 makeittoday.co.uk
FA B R I C
Fabric Woodlands Selection
Go bold
with
HOR
Be inspired...
Our pick of the
I ZO N
TA L S dreamiest makes
with some of our
favourite AGF fabrics

ari J Paradis Woodlands by Bari J Row by Row Woodlands by Bonnie Christine

Maxi Dress
Use premium cotton
for enticing natural drape
in longer gowns

Buck Forest Woodlands by Bonnie Christine Ink Outburst Woodlands by Sharon Holland

WOODLANDS FUSIONS:
This collection is filled with the Fitted Sheath
Play with relaxed knits
essence of romance, painterly for flattering shaping in
flowers, and classic hues that shorter pieces
create a timeless aesthetic.
The enchanting prints in this
range can easily transition
from casual to dressy, while
having the versatility to be
worn throughout the seasons.
For a classy yet bold look, try
making a stylish top in the
Row by Row Woodlands print
by Bonnie Christine. If fanciful
florals steal your heart, a flowy Bomber Jacket
Joie de Clair Woodlands by AGF Studio dress in Paradis Woodlands by Explore the soft ranges
Bari J. is sure to turn heads! of rayon for a supple
shaped jacket

For stockists, visit hantex.co.uk/fusions


makeittoday.co.uk 35
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MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 14:53 Page 38

Delighted to be supporting
Sh
Skirt

owc
ase
Fabric focus

Alert
Heather Jacks, brand
ambassador for Simplicity,
on party pencil fabric Pink and Gold Brocade,
What turns an 11.20 per metre,
ordinary garment into thesplendidstitch.co.uk
something special?
Take a look at this
simple pencil skirt and
imagine it made in
brocade or satin
already its beginning
to get a special
occasion feel about it.
Fabric choice is paramount when thinking
about creating glamorous party wear. Dont be
afraid to experiment with the likes of sequins; Floral Denim, 8 per metre,
some can be machined straight stitchfabrics.co.uk
over, so always check. Just
remember that you might have to
clear the seam allowances first.
For a subtle look, try using contrast
threads when topstitching, or
incorporate vibrant pocket facings
to make a statement. 8.95,
visit simplicitynewlook.com
for size details.

GET IT RIGHT: Yarn Dyed Cotton


Chambray Hot Pink, 6.99
Luxury Fabrics per metre,
When working with brocade or satin, doughtysonline.co.uk
check that youre using the correct
layout, as these fabrics may require nap
and shade going in one direction.
Consider your fabric pattern and be
sure to centralise the design down the
front and back. If it has a large repeat,
buy more fabric than stated.
Seam Savvy
For a couture look, complete each seam Getting the seams right is
with a Hong Kong finish in contrasting crucial when finishing off
bias. Match the weight and width of the a project, and there are
bias to the skirt fabric. various ways to go about
Using a small piece of lining fabric, fit a it. Hong Kong seams are
tiny envelope over the end of zipper tape a method of binding that
to eliminate any scratching. incorporates bias tape,
and they are a brilliant
way to complete the
inside of your garments.
Unlike traditional
patterns are available from techniques, the binding
on the wrong side of the
all good sewing shops and websites. seam allowance is left
unturned, reducing bulk
Visit simplicitynewlook.com or call an ideal finish for heavy
or thick fabrics.
0161 480 8734 for stockist information.

makeittoday.co.uk 39
Tweed Cap Tilly Headscarf Silky Kimono

MORE PATTERNS, MORE MAKES...

Bonus Projects
For You
Even more DIY dressmaking
inspiration at makeittoday.co.uk
Your chance to expand your stitching repertoire with an
assortment of quick and easy handmade fashion projects

Liberty Top

Plus....
Tartan wrap project for
autumn jaunts
Flattering vintage nightie
with lace trim
Wedding veil for the perfect
finishing touch
Craft the perfect bodice

Faux-Fur Gilet Kiddies Apron! block for shapely tops


And much, much more!

40 makeittoday.co.uk
Par
ty S
pecia
l

Prinetty
Pleats
Want to be fashion-
fabulous with folds?
We show you how easy
it is to get groovy, baby
WORDS BY JANEY GOULDING

For many of us, our introduction to pleats is linked to


schooldays; by accident or design, formative pleat
wear tends to involve over-sized pinafores or skimpy
gym skirts. Yet somewhere between the playground
and our first dressmaking forays, we cotton on to a
brave new world of pleating potential, as catwalks,
high streets and charity shops present a cacophony of
sunray and accordion styles. Its hard to believe that
this fashion-forward dressmaking technique started
life as the product of linen stiffened in egg matter
and that this was considered the height of luxury!
Luckily for modern followers of the pleat, these elegant
techniques are well within your reach, and you dont
need to break the bank (or crack any eggs) to create
your own distinctive shapes. Whether you plump for a
pretty flat flare or a mighty inverted box, take it from
us: its time to join the fold.

Did You Know?


The art of plisse, developed by the Egyptians, created ridges
on garments in a high-protein manner by pouring eggs over
linen to dry in the sun. In perhaps the first case of yolks
being served sunny side up, aristocrats concocted temporary
Sew Magazine

pleats by glazing fabric across narrow wooden grooves.


You know what they say: if you cant beat them

makeittoday.co.uk 41

F Pretty in Pleats.indd 41 03/11/2017 14:59


Folding Back
The Years
Three-dimensional fashion found form
with the ancient Greeks and their ionic
peplum, a plisse tunic with pleats that
vanished every time the garment was
washed. Pleating became the hipster
headgear of choice in the 16th century
with ruffs, as voluminous collars of lace
and muslin raised the fashion stakes
for an Elizabethan gentry eager for
new ways to showcase their bling.
In the 19th century, the Mariano
Fortuny reinvigorated pleats with

A new generation of women,


from Taylor Swift to the Duchess of
Cambridge, is embracing the free-
flowing dynamics of this innovative
form. Yet for many dressmakers, credit
is owed to couturier Mariano Fortuny,
whose innovations of fluidity connected
the worlds of textiles and art with the
intimately figure-flattering Delphos
dress, a long tube of pleated silk.
This Grecian sensibility is similarly
celebrated with Madame Gres, a
Parisian couturier who would hand-
pleat metres of silk jersey to create
sculptural haute couture gowns.
Fashion journalist Tamsin Blanchard
Pleat It! also references designer Issey Miyake,
whose Pleats Please line yielded to the
contours of the body. His designs
Easy elegance with this garments inspired by paper lanterns,
versatile stitching technique she recalls the task of shaping to fit the crossed boundaries of age and size,
female form. Pleats are often viewed as with each wearer giving the pleats their
For many, the process of making pleats ageing, but Aneka insists fresh takes on own unique shape, she says.
presents a challenge, both in terms of technique broaden the potential of the
perceived effort and shaping. Made To Egyptian classic. Accordion or knife The Ripple Effect
Sew creator and teacher Aneka Truman pleats have traditional connotations, While we may not reach the dizzy plisse
says it was a learning curve as the focus but use them on a midi in a metallic heights of Miyake, we can all find favour
for her East meets West GCSE textiles fabric and you have a garment in the softly corrugated folds of a
exam. Using accordion pleats to make worthy of fashion week, she says. sunray, accordion or kick pleat. Impact

Boxing Clever BOX PLEAT


Work from the
wrong side of the
fabric. Pinch and
crease the line
on the left and
move the line to
meet the centre
Think inside crease the line line. Complete,
the box with on the left and so the left and
Aneka Truman move to meet INVERTED RIGHT SIDE right lines meet BOX RIGHT SIDE
the centre line. with a fold.
The box and inverted box Complete for the right side, so the two lines
pleat are the same: the meet with a fold at the centre line. Both FINISHING TOUCHES
difference is what you see techniques are the same: what matters is To secure, hold the pleats in position; this
on the right side of the the side you see. will allow you to attach a waistband or
fabric. The back of a box binding. If you plan on sewing across the edge
will look like an inverted pleat, and vice INVERTED BOX PLEAT with a permanent stitch, tack the pleats in
versa. They should be marked on the pattern Sew from the right side of the fabric. Use the position, using length 4mm. Sew near the
with solid or dotted lines and arrows. markings visible on the right side, pinch and stitching line. madetosew.com

42 makeittoday.co.uk

F Pretty in Pleats.indd 42 03/11/2017 14:59


the silk delphos, a dress so
intimately attuned to the
curves of the wearer that
no lingerie was
permitted. The
1990s extended
the practicality of
this form with the
polyester plisse
of Issey Miyake,
whose Pleats Please
collection introduced
rippling folds that could
be machine-washed and
stored easily. Plastic
fantastic, indeed...

is based on number, size and scale,


says Aneka. Many crystal pleats can
create wow factor in a soft textile, as
can a few oversized box pleats in a stiff
fabric. In figuring out the potential of
those undulating folds, the big question
is often which garment is best for which
pleat? Aneka believes its all about
finding the right placement and fabric
for your shape. Loose, folded pleats, not
sewn flat, add volume. Coming from a
waistband they make the midriff look
rounded. Stitched flat through the hip
creates a flatter look.
Lena Merrin, the creator of Iconic
Patterns, believes pleats can accentuate
any part of your figure. As she observes,
Join the Fold
vertical lines of pressed pleats make the
eye travel up and down, helping to
Useful resources to help
you find your groove
elongate silhouette. A vertical in a
blouse is an intelligent replacement READ IT! Several pleating
for unsightly bust darts, especially and structure is best for big pleats, but if techniques are included in
important with light fabrics and larger you want a series of smaller pleats, go Tanya Whelans Sew Many
bust sizes. Pleated skirt fronts can for chiffon, habotai and silk jersey. Dresses Sew Little Time
conceal the tummy and create In terms of technique, our experts (21.99, Potter Craft).
encourage adventure and plenty of Stitch a picnic dress with
movement at the hem, says Lena.
uniform folds or a
On a waisted skirt, they accentuate practice to perfect the art of folding.
Valentines gown with
a slim waist, whereas pleats with a Start with a straight skirt that includes box pleats. thegmcgroup.co.uk
yoke draw the eye to the hips. a box or kick pleat, then progress to
complex shapes. Its a simple way to TRY IT! Aneka Trumans excellent guide to
Groove Is In transform a tried-and-tested shift or
pencil into something special. Even
the difference between box and inverted

The Heart incorporating a few into a sleeve can


pleats, and how you can master both types,
is available to follow on video. Check out
For precision folds, preparation is key elevate your make, says Lena, who her YouTube tutorial and youll be
as is sensible fabric selection. Start with provides a series of pleat-related grooving with the best of them.
tinyurl.com/pleatingvideo
easy-to-press material that holds the ideas at iconicpatterns.com. Aneka

crease well, Lena suggests. Linen, recommends marking the pleats clearly
stable cotton and pure wool are all on the wrong side of the fabric and LOVE IT! Ciment Pleating produces ready-
made pleated fabric for fashion colleges,
sturdy enough to manipulate. As you always double-checking size and costumers and film companies, as well
become better at controlling fabric, placement by measuring. Tacking the as dressmakers. They famously made Lady
you can move on to lightweights and pleats before sewing gives an extra level Gaga a dress using 330 pieces of sunray
stretch, she adds. Aneka recommends of control, but if youre in doubt, dont pleating from shower curtains!
spending a little time getting familiar be afraid to visit YouTube for free video Be inspired at cimentpleating.com
with textile properties; a crisp handle guidance; see the Join The Fold panel.

makeittoday.co.uk 43

F Pretty in Pleats.indd 43 03/11/2017 14:59


G R E AT FO R BEG INNERS F ROM THER ESA GON Z A L EZ , SU NDAY SEWS

CRISP AND COMFY

Poppy Top
Relaxed, fuss-free fit with modern detailing
ESSENTIALS We know this time of year is all about sensible layers and
Main cotton print, 2.2m x 115cm snazzy party gear, but theres still a lot to be said for those
Coordinating thread P R O J EC T
pretty pieces you can wear all year round. This easy, closure-
DESIGNER free tank is full of flattering casual accents, including a square
CUTTING GUIDE
TANK FRONT: Cut one on fold
Theresa neckline and ruffled cap sleeves, and is the perfect chance to
TANK BACK: Cut one on fold Gonzalez practise your box pleat and yoke skills feminine and practical
in cotton lawn, especially if you go for a playful polka dot,
FRONT FACING: Cut one on fold
ditsy floral or seasonal botanical print.
SLEEVE: Cut two on fold
YOKE BACK: Cut two on fold

why not
All seam allowances 1.5 cm,
unless otherwise stated Poppy top
1 4 try?
Bottom hem allowance 3cm Download and cut out Fold one sleeve piece in
the pattern from half, wrong sides together,
makeittoday.co.uk. Fold the aligning the short ends. Stitch
tank back in half lengthwise, the solid pleat line to form a
wrong sides together, then box pleat. With the right side
sew along the solid pleat lines. uppermost, press the pleat
With right side uppermost, down, matching the centre
press the pleat, matching the fold to the seam line. Tack
centre fold to the seam line. the pleat at the top and
Tack the pleat along the top bottom raw edges, 5mm
raw edge, 5mm in. from the edge.

2 Align the top of the tank


back with the bottom of
the yoke back, right sides
5 Align the notched sleeve
edge and notched
armhole of the tank, right
together, then sew. Press the sides together. Pin the sleeve
seam towards the yoke and to the armhole, then stitch.
finish the seams. Match the Clip along the curves, press
front and back pieces along the seam open and finish
the shoulders, right sides all raw edges. Repeat for the
together, sew and press the second sleeve and the
seams open. Repeat with the opposite armhole.
facing pieces.

3 Match up the main tank 6 With right sides together,


match the tank side seam Florals &
and facing neckline, right
sides together. Pin, then sew,
and sleeve underarm seam.
Pin, then sew. Press open and
Botanicals
The versatility of this
pivoting at the front corners. finish the edges. Fold the raw relaxed pattern gives great
Clip the curves and front sleeve edges 5mm to the freedom for expressing
corners. Press the seams open, wrong side and press, then yourself with fabric design,
then turn the tank out and repeat. Edgestitch the inner whether you go for a lush,
press the neckline flat. folded edge. Fold and press verdant palm leaf,
Edgestitch the neckline and the bottom hem under 5mm, watercolour blush floral or
shoulder seams, 2.5mm in then again by 2.5cm, and whimsical animal print.
from the edge. blind-stitch. 14.50 per metre,
guthrie-ghani.co.uk
PAT T E R N VA R I AT I O N S
If you prefer, you can forego the sleeves and make a simple
square-neck tank, just remembering to bind the raw edges.

44 makeittoday.co.uk
GREAT FO R B EG I N N E R S FRO M THER ESA GON Z A L EZ , S UN DAY S EWS

FA B R I C

White With
Red Spot
For a light feel that best
showcases the loose
shaping, you cant go wrong
with a simple polka dot print
such as this one by Minerva
Crafts. 6.99 per metre,
minervacrafts.com

D I S C OV E R
MORE MAKES
2016 by Nicole Hill Gerulat

Stitch more sweet and


simple pieces with Sunday
Sews by Theresa Gonzalez
(15.99, Chronicle Books),
chroniclebooks.com

makeittoday.co.uk 45
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MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 15:38 Page 50

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Confident
beginner
SIXTIES STYLE

Tweed
Jacket
Emulate an iconic
garment that never
grows old
Flash back to the
swinging sixties
when mini dresses
and sophisticated
Amanda coordinated suits were
Walker all the range think
Jackie Kennedy, Coco
Chanel and all the
fashion icons that made the era so
iconic. Fifty years on, Amanda Walker
has created a contemporary A-line
jacket that celebrates this classic style.
The tweed fabric has a soft casual feel
to it and is loosely woven, making it
relatively easy to stitch; however, it does
fray so take care with the handling.

DOWNLOAD THE
PATTERN FROM
makeittoday.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 51
Confident
beginner Buttons can really make or
break the look of a finished
ESSENTIAL KIT garment. You dont want
Fabric, 1.5m x 150cm to distract away from the
Contrasting fabric
garment, but you also
Fusible interfacing,
medium weight 50cm want to make a statement try pearl
Coordinating thread or silver and gold
Buttons, three
AMANDA WALKER, DESIGNER
CUTTING GUIDE
FRONT JACKET: Cut one pair Tweed joined facing over the
BACK JACKET: Cut on fold
FRONT FACING: Cut one pair Jacket attached collar, matching the
notches and centre front
in fabric and one in
fusible interfacing 1Download and cut out the
pattern from makeit
today.co.uk. Stitch the darts
edges. Sew around the neck,
sandwiching the collar inside.
Clip around the edge and
BACK NECK FACING: Cut one
only in contrasting fabric into the front two jacket press. Position the armhole
sections from the sides of edge of the facing to the top
COLLAR: Cut one pair in fabric the darts to the points. of the armhole in the jacket,
and one in fusible interfacing Press upwards towards pin and stitch.
SLEEVE: Cut one pair the shoulders and
neaten down the side
edges. Fuse the
interfacing to the front
4 Match the side seams,
pin, stitch and press
open. Neaten the long edges
facings and one of the of the sleeves. Sew a row of
collars. Stitch right gathering stitches around
sides together, leaving the head of the sleeves,
the neck edge open. starting from the front notch
Trim the bulk from the and finishing at the back.
curved edges, then Pin the underarm sleeve
turn to the right side, seams, right sides together,
tease out the seams then press open and turn
and press. the sleeves out.

2 Pin and stitch the


shoulder seams of
the front two jacket
5 Pull the gathering threads
up slightly and place the
sleeve into the armhole. Pin the
pieces to the back, right side seams and the underarm
sides together. Press the of the sleeve; match the notch
seam allowances open. in the centre of the sleeve to
Match the centre of the the one at the end of the
collar on the neck edge shoulder seam, then adjust
and the centre back neck the gathers to fit. Stitch in
edge of the back jacket. place, neatening around the
Align the notches on the collar seam allowances.
and dots with those on the
jacket, then sew the collar to
the neck of the jacket. 6Tidy the base of the
sleeves and the jacket.
Fold and press a 3cm hem in

3 Stitch the shoulder seams both, then hand-hem in place.


of the front two facing Make three buttonholes on the
pieces to the back neck facing, right side, then stitch buttons
right sides together. Press the in the corresponding places
seams open. Position the on the left side.

ST I TC H SAV V Y
The jacket fabric has a check print, which will need
matching when the pieces are cut out. Lay the front and
back alongside each other, so you can be sure the hems
are running along the same check line. Position the centre
back of the collar and centre back of the jacket along the
same design line and try to continue the check along the
front opening.

52 makeittoday.co.uk
Confident
beginner
FA B R I C

Lady McElroy
Vermont Check
Reminiscent of the iconic
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tweed print is the best choice
for jackets, lightweight skirts
and coats. Itll be sure to
keep you warm and stylish
through the colder months.
23.90 per metre,
sherwoodsfabrics.co.uk
GET THE LOOK! Vest top 8.99, hm.com. Necklace 10, accessorize.com. Skirt 24.90, uniqlo.com

When trimming the


bulk from the curved
edge of the collar, cut out
V shaped pieces from
the seam allowance; this
will help the edge of the
collar to sit in an
even curve.

makeittoday.co.uk 53
MAKE IT TODAY ISSUE 29_MAKE IT TODAY 03/11/2017 15:37 Page 54

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rksh
ops
Master the art of decorative
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HAMPTON COURT NEC Birmingham
PALACE, LONDON Fashion & Embroidery is the definitive
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Well-known for its thriving decorative stitching. In addition to shopping
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Embellishment in Fashion exhibition your side. Whatever you choose, youre bound to be hooked
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visit royal-needlework.org.uk Embroidery and Textile Art Course, starting 26th February 2018,
www.leicestershirecraftcentre.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 55
Beginnproejrect
COMFY IN COTTON

Dressing Gown
Glam up your mornings with our pretty
no-pattern kimono
ESSENTIAL KIT
Cotton fabric, 1.5m Make getting out of bed something to look forward to,
Contrast bias binding, 5m by stitching Amanda Walkers lovely wrap for yourself.
Coordinating thread Sewn from cotton lawn in a delicate floral print, the
edges and sleeve bands are finished off with pink bias
CUTTING GUIDE
Amanda binding for an eye-catching contrast. Slip it on and
BACK: Cut one 31cm x 1m rectangle on fold Walker enjoy a lazy Sunday lounging around the house:
FRONT: Cut two 35cm x 1m rectangles you can always get dressed later!
FRONT AND BACK NECK BAND: Cut two
13cm x 1.13m strips
SLEEVES: Cut two 30cm x 60cm rectangles
SLEEVE BANDS: Cut two 13cm x 60cm strips
BELT TIE: Cut one 13cm x 1.6m strip stitch, then press the seams that the bias binding is underarm sleeve corners and
BELT CARRIERS: Cut two 2cm x 9cm strips back. Press up 1cm at the sandwiched between the two secure. Neaten the side edges
1.5cm seam allowances used throughout, base of the two front pieces, layers of the end of the band. of the front and back and
except for the front and back neck band then another 3cm, to make Turn out to the right side, tease across the head of the sleeves.
and sleeve bands, where 1cm is used. the hem. out the corner and press. Open out the front and back,
right side towards you. Mark

2 Using contrast fabric, cut


bias binding the same 4 Find the centre back neck
and mark with a pin.
the centre top of the sleeves,
then match and pin to the end
Dressing length as the front and back
neck band. Unfold and press
Match the band seam to the
centre back neck and the two
of the shoulder seams,
positioning along the outside
gown out both folded sides of the
binding, then fold and press in
ends to the second fold at the
base of the front pieces.
edges, right sides together.

1 Download and print the


diagrams at
makeittoday.co.uk. Open
half lengthways, matching the
two raw edges. Pin and stitch
the front and back neck bands
Pin the remainder around the
opening, being careful not
to pull the dressing gown or
6 Stitch each sleeve in place,
starting and finishing the
seam line 1.5cm from the
out the back piece and match across one of the short ends band. Stitch, neaten and edges. Open out the sleeves,
with the front pieces across to create a long strip. Press press towards the inside so then lay the back and front
the shoulders, right sides open, then fold the strip in the band turns out from the pieces right sides together.
together. Pin and stitch, half lengthways, wrong sides dressing gown. Match and pin the side seams
neaten the seam allowances together and matching the and the sleeve underarms.
with overlocking or zigzag long edges of both sides.
5 Turn the two edges of the
belt carrier strips in
Stitch from the ends of the
sleeves to the point where you

3 Lay the raw edges of the


bias binding onto one cut
edge of the band and pin.
towards the centre, then fold
in half again. Pin the folded
edges together and
started and stopped stitching
them backtack, then stitch
the side seams again,
Fold the band back on itself at edgestitch. Position the belt starting on the other side of
the two ends. Pin and stitch so carriers 15cm down from the this point; this will allow the

K N OW YO U R B I A S straight line. Measure from this edge and


Bias binding is a narrow strip of fabric with cut a strip to the required width; to make
pre-folded edges cut on the bias, making it single-fold bias tape, multiply your desired
stretchier. You can make your own by width by two, while for double fold you
folding fabric along the bias and cutting a should multiply it by four.

56 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect

FA B R I C
NO-PATTERN
make

Frou Frou Fleuri


Mini Ciel Intense
The delicate design and soft
feel of this beautiful cotton
lawn batiste material
makes it perfect for all types
of sewing. 16 per metre,
fabrichq.co.uk

underarm and side seam


to run smoothly.

7 Cut two sections of bias


binding the same length
as the sleeve bands. Re-press
the binding, as for Step 2, then
stitch to one side of each
band. Sew the ends together
to form a circle, open out the
seam allowance and fold in
half lengthways, matching the
raw cut edges, then press flat.
Match the seam of the sleeve
band to the end of the seam
on the sleeve, pin and stitch.
Neaten and press inside.
Repeat for the other band.

8 Prepare bias binding the


same length as the tie belt
strip. Re-press as before and
stitch to one side of the belt;
you will need to clip the edge
of the binding. Attach it as far
as the point at each end. Fold
in half, right sides together.
Sew along the edge just above
the first stitching line, leaving
a 5cm gap in the centre. Trim
the bulk from the ends, then
turn the belt out through the
gap. Tease out the seams and
points and press flat. Slip-stitch
the gap closed and thread the
belt through the carriers.

makeittoday.co.uk 57
S e w i n g
D e t e c t i v e
The inside scoop on sewing
secrets with Lorna Knight,
our dressmaking expert

ASK THE
DETECTIVE
Fix your dressm !
Following an impulse purchase machine bugb
aking dilemmas
,
of sequinned fabric, Ive realised troubles, and m ears, tailoring
ore!
I dont know how to sew with it! Sewing Detecti Write to Lorna at
ve,
Do I need a special needle? Dressmaker, 1 Make It Today
Phoe
Hawkins Road, nix Court,
MEGAN, BRIDGEND Colchester,
CO2 8JY or em
You may find it helps to fit a different needle, ail
but not one that stitches through sequins.
jane.goulding@
Instead, consider the backing fabric onto aceville.co.uk
which the sequins are sewn as this is the layer
the needle needs to penetrate; a stretch,
microtex or universal needle is best. Although
it is time-consuming, the best approach is to
unpick the sequins from the seam allowance Many party dress patterns
completely before stitching the seam. This require linings, but those Ive
means that if you fit a zipper foot to your
sewing machine, youll be able to sew along I am trying to apply a fancy stitch used are noisy when I walk!
the seam line without any bits getting in the with metallic threads to a dress, Any suggestions?
way. The finished seam will have no bulk, as but it keeps breaking. What am CLARA, HORNCHURCH
the allowances will be free from sequins.
If you find a few gaps on the surface at the
I doing wrong? Polyester lining is quite stiff and so it
makes a crinkly sound when it moves,
join, you can fill these by hand-sewing some ALEXIS, DURHAM which I appreciate can be embarrassing
of the spare sequins you removed at the start. This problem is easily fixed with the right when you walk. An acetate lining is heavier
choice of needle; a metallic one has an and drapes well, so it might be a good
elongated eye to prevent sensitive metallic alternative, especially under soft, floaty
threads from shredding or snapping. Also, garments. Its a little more expensive, but
make sure the needle is big enough to create it feels nicer next to the skin. For a luxury
a large enough hole in the fabric for the thread lining, choose silk. A very light habotai or
to follow it through; if the needle is too fine, a sumptuous charmeuse are the perfect
the metallic thread will struggle to slide way to finish off a special garment such
through the material. Once you have an as a woollen jacket or a silk dress. They
appropriate needle in place, try out a few are great in the winter, too, as silk is
decorative stitches; you might find some work super-cosy. If youre planning a stretchy,
better than others. If you have a smartphone, figure-hugging dress this Christmas, use
Lauren Guthrie

its also worth getting the Schmetz app; this a stretch lining so it will move in the same
comprehensive reference means you have way as the outer layer. Dig a bit deeper
terrific needle advice at your fingertips while when searching your local fabric store
youre out shopping for new fabrics. and you should be able to find these
itunes.apple.com/us/app/schmetz alternative linings.

58 makeittoday.co.uk

R Sewing detective final.indd 58 03/11/2017 11:53


YO U W I L L N E E D Is there a fail-safe party repair
Two pieces of fabric, 20cm x 30cm
Coordinating thread kit you can recommend during
Wadding, 20cm x 30cm party season, in case I catch
Bias binding, 60cm my hem or a button falls off?
Craft felt ANDREA, NEWCASTLE
Its definitely a good idea to carry a few
essentials in your bag for emergencies;
some small snips and a couple of pre-
threaded needles, in a colour to match
what youre wearing, will certainly be
useful. Tiny safety pins are a must, as they
can hold layers together until you get
home, and Id also add some small buttons.
These can fit into the smallest clutch, and
if you make your own emergency kit, youll
be ready for any eventuality.
To make your own kit, grab your smallest
pair of scissors and make a paper template
in the shape of a chunky cross, with the
centre rectangle just big enough to fit your
scissors. Pin the pattern onto two layers
of fabric and wadding, then cut out. Place
the two fabric crosses, right sides together,
then top with the wadding. Sew around the
outside edge using a 6mm allowance,
leaving the top open. Turn out, pull out the
corners and press lightly. Cut a piece of felt
and place at the unfinished edge. Press bias
binding in half, then insert the top edge
of the kit between the fold of the binding,
halfway along its length. Stitch to neaten
the top of the kit, then tie to hold
everything inside.

My dream is to make a black


velvet dress for Christmas, but
Im not sure Im up to it. Is velvet
very difficult to sew?
PENNY, NORWICH
You can do it!
The problem with velvet is that the pile (the Working with Velvet
fibres sitting upright that are held in the woven IF, LIKE PENNY, YOURE WORRIED ABOUT
or knitted backing) can be crushed, and this SEWING WITH VELVET, JUST REMEMBER:
can permanently damage the lustrous surface
sheen. Some velvets are more prone to damage, Choose a suitable needle for the type of
like polyester or nylon, whereas velvet made velvet you are using a universal needle
from cotton is a little more forgiving. Cotton for cotton velvet, or a stretch needle for
does, however, have a more subtle sheen, a more silky, synthetic type.
making it more practical for everyday garments As well as finding the right needle,
Why not make some emergency rather than special occasion wear. The pile remember to lengthen the stitch to 3mm
sewing kits for your friends as gives velvet a direction so it may appear to to accommodate the extra depth in
handmade Christmas gifts? be a different shade, depending on how the the fabric.
light catches it. This means it is important to A word of caution when ironing velvet:
cut all the panels of a garment in the same
use the iron sparingly with a light touch,
direction, with the top and bottom indentical
D I S C OV E R for all pieces. from the wrong side and always with a
When stitching velvet seams with a sewing pressing cloth.
MORE TIPS machine, there is a tendency for the top layer If possible, use a velvet board, place it on
Youll find plenty more to move over the lower one. This can cause one an ironing board with the velvet over it,
technique tips by side to be gathered or puckered, so when you pile facing down. This supports the pile
picking up a copy reach the hem, one layer extends beyond the and prevents it being flattened while
of The Complete edge of the other. To avoid this, reduce the you iron.
Dressmaking Bible presser foot pressure, or fit a walking foot to If you havent got a velvet board, dont
(15, David & Charles) feed the layers more evenly under the needle. worry; just use a spare piece of velvet
fwcommunity.com We hope the list of suggestions opposite gives
under your garment to protect the pile.
you the confidence to have a go. Dont forget
to send us a photo of your finished velvet frock.
Good luck!

makeittoday.co.uk 59

R Sewing detective final.indd 59 03/11/2017 11:53


ase
owc
Sh

B l
Little es a c k
Dress Stitching advice from Heather Jacks,
Accenr tbuuastte Iconic style
you
Four bodice
styles
NEW LOOK 6429
SIZES 10-22, 6.95
This patterns dynamic cut-out
neckline with bust-enhancing
peephole style is just one of the
party patterns available with
New Look 6429, offering a choice
of four fab frocks. As well as the sleeveless halter
style, you can play with cap sleeves and an
optional sheer or lace insert.

Choose interfacing that is appropriate to the


dress fabric weight and remember to always
finish the facing edges.
Make tiny V clippings around the curved upper
edge, as this will allow some give when you are
joining the neckband.
Stitch the zipper tape to the seam
allowance after inserting for Silhouettr e
a neater finish. shape
Instantly
slimming
SIMPLICITY 8330
SIZES 4-20, 9.95
With its classic figure-hugging
cut and halter-neck style, this
definitive LBD features an invisible
zipper plus a button and loop
closure on the neck band.
Simplicitys versatile pattern also offers you
the choice of a long hemline with side split,
and even a tulle fishtail option.

Remember that tulle and mesh dont need to


be hemmed. However, you can narrow-hem fine
chiffon or organza.
Handle fabric gently when you are sewing across
the bias on the back to avoid stretch, or it will
warp the finished neckline.
If you are altering zip length, bind the point just
above where youre cutting to avoid losing the tab.

patterns are available from all good sewing shops and websites.
60 makeittoday.co.uk

R FS PATTERN PICKS.indd 60 03/11/2017 15:02


Sh
owc
ase
If theres one rule worth
observing, its that every
woman needs space
in her wardrobe for
the ubiquitous Little
Simplicity brand ambassador Black Dress
We dressmaking gals understand that its important
made simple! not to get too bogged down in rules of fashion the
main thing is you make things that fit and flatter you.
Still, if theres one rule worth observing, its that every
woman needs a little space in her wardrobe for the
ubiquitous Little Black Dress. A quintessential emblem
These patterns feature international sizes, which differ from ready-to-wear sizing. It is essential that you take your exact body measurements and compare with the sizing charts on each pattern.

of sophistication, the LBD has a signature quality


a feeling of belonging rather than chasing a trend,
Movie hence its suitability as a party classic. With these three
patterns, you can cover all the bases, from demure
Classic Hepburn skirts to high hemlines and peephole bodices.
Master princess seams and long-line french darts, plus
invisible zip insertion, overlay techniques, inset yokes
and narrow hem stitching, as you create gowns with
a variety of sleeve and neckline variations all in a host
of lovely luxury fabric. Think lace for Simplicity 8330,
Duchesse satin for New Look 6723 and crepe-back
satin for New Look 6429. For drama, opulence and
sparkle, its time to go back to black!

ST I TC H I N G E S S E N T I A L S

Hollywood 1 If you choose sequin fabric,


you might not be able to
also stops the fabric feeling
scratchy; a Hong Kong bias

glam
sew over it without removing finish works especially well.

4
the sequins from the seam There are many types of
NEW LOOK 6723 allowance. These fabrics may tulle netting available,
SIZES 8-18, 6.95 come in different widths, so ranging from a soft, stretchy
Fashion your own homage to check pattern layout before power net to the rigid type used
the stars with this fit and flare you buy. to give structure under heavy
frock pattern. Featuring princess
seams, an A-line skirt, mixed
sleeve lengths, plus boatneck
2 With certain brocades,
satin and velvet, you will be
working with nap, so bear this
fabrics. When buying for
Simplicity 8330, consider the
effect that you desire and
and sweetheart necklines, this in mind with layout to ensure choose accordingly.

5
Hepburn classic is ideal in you dont produce a harlequin The closer the fit of the dress,
taffeta, shantung and crpe effect when the garment is the more important it is that
de chine. You can even make made up. the fit is accurate to your body
a clutch!
Youll find that hemming by
hand will produce the best
3 When hemming sequinned
fabrics, its a good idea to
finish the bottom with bias tape.
measurement. Be sure to make a
toile first, using either calico or a
cheap curtain lining, as it will
results; take care not to crush This will secure the sequins and save a lot of frustration later.
when ironing.
Make the belt wider for a more
dramatic effect; just remember
the belt loops need to be
About our expert...
longer to accommodate the After winning the Great British Sewing Bee in 2014, lifelong stitcher
extra fabric. Heather is passionate about sharing her knowledge, giving regular
lectures and workshops nationwide and setting up the Go Sew
Use a handmade chain-stitch project to teach children to sew. As well as designing a range of
for the belt loops so they are fabrics for the Craft Cotton Company, she loves to accurately
neater and stronger. interpret patterns to create beautifully crafted garments.

Visit simplicitynewlook.com or call 0161 480 8734 for stockist information.


makeittoday.co.uk 61

R FS PATTERN PICKS.indd 61 03/11/2017 15:02


Corinnes
BAG
OF THE
MONTH
Kelly Bag
Replicate a Parisian classic P RO J EC T

ESSENTIAL KIT
in heritage herringbone! DESIGNER
Corinne
Wool tweed fabric, 0.5m
Cotton lining fabric, 0.5m Luxury fashion isnt just a thing to covet through department Bradd
Wadding, 0.5m store windows its a lifestyle choice thats well within your grasp,
Coordinating thread as dressmaking introduces you to a host of classic accessories
Leather, upholstery weight, you can make for yourself. Corinnes homage to the Parisian handbag has been
11cm x 45cm reinvented in celebration of one of the silver screens all-time style goddesses,
Thick cord, 1m Grace Kelly. Styled with its distinctive trapezium shape, this exclusive project is a
Magnetic bag clasp chance to practise your lining and leather-sewing skills, enabling you to stroll down
Snap fasteners the boulevards with your very own quintessential Kelly creation.

Kelly Bag curve. Fit the female half of the


clasp to the mark, so the back
lengthways around thick cord,
securing with a binder clip.

1 Download the template


from makeittoday.co.uk
is hidden by a layer of tweed. Sew the edges, leaving a 3cm
gap at each end. Pierce holes
and cut two bag outers from
tweed. Pin face up onto
wadding and zigzag stitch
3 Tack the raw flap edge
to the top of one outer,
right sides together. Place the
3mm in from the edge and
hand-sew, or use a zipper
foot and leather needle in a
around the edges before other outer face down on machine. Trim the cord ends,
trimming the wadding to top, then pin. Sew the sides flatten the unsewn rounded
size. Also, cut two outers from and bottom edge with an ends and pierce holes around
cotton lining, two flap pieces allowance large enough to the circumference, 3mm in.
from tweed and one flap cover the zigzag stitches, but Hand-stitch the handles to
from wadding. dont sew the corner notches. both sides of the bag, either

GET THE LOOK! Dress 19.99, tkmaxx.com. Necklace from a selection at Wallis in debenhams.com
Fold the corners so the side side of the flap position.

2 Pin the flap pieces,


right sides together,
with the wadding at the
and bottom seam lines match,
then sew across the notches
to create a flat base. Turn the 5 Sew the lining in the same
way, but leave a 10cm
bottom. Sew the curved bag out and fold the flap over gap along the bottom edge
section using a 5mm seam the top. Mark the position of for turning. Slip the lining over
allowance. Clip the curve the clasp and fit the male half the bag and line up the top
and turn out, so the wadding to the bag front. edges, right sides together,
is sandwiched between the folding down and encasing
tweed. Topstitch the curve,
5mm from the edge. Mark the
flap centre, 3cm up from the
4 Cut two leather strips,
5cm x 45cm. Round the
ends and fold in half
the handles and flap. Sew the
top edge, then turn the bag
out through the lining gap.

why
NOT
try?
Gtermann Marrakesch
Add a touch of restrained Moroccan artistry to your Kelly lining in softest
hues of dusky rose, navy and chai. This assortment of ornamental floral,
pink star and pretty paisley offers the perfect complement to a timeless
fashion accessory. gutermann@stockistenquiries.co.uk

62 makeittoday.co.uk
FA B R I C

Wool Suiting
Herringbone Grey
Timeless elegance is
assured with this lightweight
100% wool. Keep those
seasonal tones neutral and
classic with a herringbone
weave in soft pewter the
perfect complement to rich
tan leather. 28 per metre,
trurofabrics.com

Fold in the raw edges of


the gap and topstitch.
Slip the lining inside the bag,
press and topstitch the top
bag edge.

6 Hand-sew snap fasteners


to the top corners of the
bag, 1cm down from the edge
and 3cm in from the side
seam, so the sides can be
pinched together and
fastened, or opened to allow
extra capacity. Decorate the
bag by cutting a further
7mm-wide strip of leather,
threading with charms and
looping around the handle.

SHOPPING
BASKET
Nunn Tree of
Life Bag Charm
Finish off your Parisian satchel with
a charming antique-style charm,
such as this embossed Nunn
Design disc with its traditional DOWNLOAD THE
arboreal detail. 3.97,
beadsdirect.co.uk
TEMPLATE FROM
makeittoday.co.uk
makeittoday.co.uk 63
Beginnproejrect
EASY EVERY-DAY STYLE

Winter Wrap
This no-pattern make is just what you
need when theres a nip in the air

Sometimes its nice to create something that is a little


different from the norm, and Corinne Bradds unique
scarf does just that. Made from an offcut of tweed fabric
and some odd leather pieces she had in her sewing Corinne
room, Corinne has used two scalene triangles to the
scarf. Wool or a medium weight tweed works best for Bradd
this type of garment, as the asymmetrical cut of the
fabric allows it to drape beautifully. The leather fasteners
give the ensemble an attractive finish, perfect for winter
walks, accessorised with a hat and a pair of designer wellies.

it up as you do so. Lightly press


ESSENTIAL KIT the scarf, using a steam iron
Wool tweed, 70cm, over a cloth to protect the wool, S O F T TO U C H
150cm wide then mark 6.5cm in from the
Leather offcuts Wool rich fabrics are a
short edge at 12cm intervals. dream to work with,
Matching thread
however a little TLC is all
Sewing kit
Leather piercing tool 3 Download the arrow
head template from
makeittoday.co.uk. Lay it on
that is needed to make
sure that your garment
keeps its shape.
the reverse-side of the leather,

Winter mark, then cut out four


double-headed arrows using
When pressing tweed,
place a piece of muslin

Wrap sharp scissors. Use a leather


piercing tool to mark holes
under the iron to protect
the wool from the heat,

1Fold the length of fabric


diagonally from corner to
corner and cut in half to make
around the shape, 2mm in
from the edge and across
the arrow heads. Using a
and use a light touch.
Make sure that your
two scalene triangles. Flip one sturdy needle, hand sew the sewing machine needle
over and pin together right straight sections with a line is sharp; 10 or 14 is a
side to wrong side. Stitch all of simple stitches. suitable weight, however
round the shape with a 1cm adjust for lighter or
seam allowance to minimize
fraying, then leave a 10cm gap
in the centre of the short side.
4 Position each arrowhead
with the point on the mark
and pin through the punched
heavier tweeds.
Always check washing
Clip the corners and turn out. holes. Ensure the leather pieces instructions, as some
are straight before hand tweeds are dry clean

2 Choose the side of tweed sewing the triangles at each only, and others can be
you prefer and top stitch end through both layers of hand-washed with a
around the scarf 2mm from tweed to make loops. Thread suitable detergent.
the edge, folding in the raw the point of the scarf through
edges of the gap and closing the loops to wear.

L E AT H E R P O I N T E R S
Choose leather with a thickness of 1.5mm/2mm
so that it does not warp your sewing needle

64 makeittoday.co.uk
Beginnproejrect
FA B R I C

NO-PATTERN
make

Twist
Take a stroll in the autumn
sunshine wearing this
Donegal tweed in a classy
herringbone pattern, 30
per metre, fabworks.co.uk
GET THE LOOK! Dress, 39 from a selection at esprit.co.uk

makeittoday.co.uk 65
Confident
beginner
SEASON MUST-SEW

Raglan
Sleeved Coat
Stitch this cosy throw-on and you wont know
what you did without it!
Thanks to our talented designer Amanda Walker,
coat-making just got even easier. If youve steered
clear of stitching jackets for your wardrobe in the
past, this garment is sure to twist your arm. The
classic shape is easy to stitch and can be made up
Amanda with fabrics that dont fray, such as boiled wool,
Walker which avoids the need to finish seams.

Raglan side in a consistent line,


making a smooth curve to

coat the base corners. Press the


edge of the fold, then position
the pockets to the notches

1 Download and print


the pattern from
makeittoday.co.uk. Cut
indicated on the side seams
of the front coat piece. Pin in
place and slip-stitch by
out the pieces as indicated in hand, down the edge nearest
the cutting guide. Attach to the centre front and across
interfacing to the wrong side the base.
of the front and back neck
facings, and to the top flap
facing part of the pockets.
Position and pin the back
4 Neaten the shoulder edge
and under sleeve edges
of both the front and back
neck facing to the front across sleeves. Position and pin, right
the shoulders, right sides sides together, and stitch the
together. Stitch and neaten front sleeves to the front coat
the outer edge. pieces. Neaten the seam
allowances together, pressing

2 Neaten the four sides of


each pocket and side
edges of the front two pieces.
the seam up towards the
sleeve. Repeat for the back
sleeves and back coat piece.
Turn the top interfaced part Lay the front coat and sleeve
of each pocket over along the pieces onto the back coat
fold line and stitch down the and sleeves with right sides
corner that will sit nearest to together, matching the
the centre front of the coat. shoulder edges of the sleeves.
Trim the bulk from the corners Pin and stitch from the base of
and turn the pocket facings the sleeve to the neckline, then
back to the wrong side. press the seams open.

3 Adjust your sewing


machine to a larger stitch
and sew along the seam line,
5 Lay the coat out flat with
right side facing. Position
and prepare the facing
using a 1cm allowance. Pull the around the neckline and down
threads of the stitching line up each front edge. Pin, then
slightly to help the edge of the stitch in place, starting at the
pockets roll over to the wrong base of the facing, going up

66 makeittoday.co.uk
Confident
beginner
ESSENTIAL KIT
Wool fabric, 1.5m x 2.5m
Medium-weight fusible interfacing, 1m FA B R I C
Buttons, three
Coordinating thread
Raglan shoulder pads

CUTTING GUIDE
BACK COAT: Cut one on fold
FRONT COAT: Cut one pair
FRONT SLEEVE: Cut one pair
BACK SLEEVE: Cut one pair
FRONT FACING: Cut one pair in fabric and
another from fusible interfacing
BACK NECK FACING: Cut one on fold and
another from fusible interfacing
POCKET: Cut one pair on bias of fabric
and one pair of pocket flaps in Check Mate
fusible interfacing We love the pinky tone in
this chic 100% wool tweed:
1.5cm seam allowance used throughout, why not rotate the checks
unless otherwise specified of the pockets for added
interest? 16.95 per metre,
stonefabrics.co.uk

around the neck and down to


the adjacent base front edge.
At each facing, measure up a
4cm hem and stitch across.
Trim the bulk from the corners,
clip around the neckline and
turn the facings to the inside of
the coat. Under-stitch around
the neckline to prevent the
facing rolling out, then press.

6 Turn the coat wrong side


out, matching the under
sleeves and side seams. Pin,
then stitch in one continuous
seam from the base of the
sleeve to the hem of the coat,
then press the seams open.
Neaten around the base of the
sleeves and base of the coat,
press up the 4cm hems, pin
and secure in place by hand.
Make three buttonholes on
the right side of the front coat.
Stitch three buttons to the
corresponding places on the
other side.

Overlock or zigzag
stitch to neaten the
edges of the dress,
where instructed
AMANDA WALKER,
DESIGNER
makeittoday.co.uk 67
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70 makeittoday.co.uk
THE PRACTICALS
Party season is all about putting on the
glitz, so make sure youre ready to let
your hair down without letting your
technique down. Readers can feel
anxious about tackling materials with
beads or sequins, or ruining fancy
fabrics with incorrect machine settings;
we also know how frustrating it is to get
so close to the finishing line only to find
your seams arent up to scratch. Were
showing you how to ramp up the glam
factor with essential stitching tips.
Lauren Guthrie gives the lowdown on
sewing with sequins, and Sarah Greeff
explains how to smarten up your
machine skills with beaded fabric. After
youve got to grips with tricky fabrics,
Jennifer Lauren outlines how to create a
perfect finish with professional-quality
French seams. Once youve mastered
those fine details, you wont need a fairy
godmother, but you shall go to the ball!

Work those skills!


PRACTISE THE TECHNIQUES
DEMONSTRATED HERE WITH ONE OF
OUR FREE-TO-DOWNLOAD PROJECTS,
AVAILABLE AT MAKEITTODAY.CO.UK

VIN TAG E TIE TOP SLIN KY KIM ONO


FITTE D TUN IC
Luxurious 1920s fashion with Fab flattering Sew lovely in sateen, a luxe
fit with optional
a drop-waist classic corsage and tie belt drape with contrast bands

PARTY STITCHES: PERFECT IN SILK, CHIFFON OR SEQUINS!

makeittoday.co.uk 71
Sewing With Beaded Fabric
SA R A H G R E E F F S I M P L I F I E S T H E
P R O C E S S O F ST I TC H I N G W I T H
E M B E L L I S H E D M AT E R I A L

HAVE FUN WITH BEADING FOR


1
PERFECT PARTY BLING
Big confession Im delighted that 1980s
fashion is back on the catwalks and the
high street, as it means beaded ballgowns
are back in style. For a simple way to get
practicing with this intricate fabric, who not
create a gorgeous scrunchie in celebration
of Sloane chic? Its the perfect way to crack
the technique and its also small enough to
fit in your clutch for party season! All we
need to do to preserve our needle is remove
some beading from the fabric edges. Here,
2 Ive chosen a gold silk dupion with pearls
and gold beads.

1 Machine needles and presser feet do


not like the bumps beads make, so we
L AU R E N need to remove a small amount from the
fabric edges. Grab a hammer and safety
GUTHRIE ON glasses, take your 10cm fabric and place on
S M A RT S EQ U I N a sturdy surface. Smashing the beads in a
SEWING 1.5 cm line along both raw edges.
LAUREN EXPLAINS THE MAIN POINTS TO BEAR
IN MIND WHEN STITCHING WITH SPARKLES
2 For fabric 110 wide, cut in half to make
two strips, 55cm long. Fold lengthways
and pin the fabric, right sides together.
Ive worked with sequin fabric a few times and 3 Straight-stitch 1cm from the edge. Finish
find I still learn something new every time I use the closed seam with zigzag stitch on the
it, as the base material can vary from light raw edge dont do it on the inside as it
organza to stretchy mesh. The size and density will rub with the elastic and fray.
of the sequins can vary too, and that will alter
the way you prepare and cut the fabric and
sew the seams. You also need to watch out for
3 Turn the fabric carefully through. Pop
a safety pin on 8mm elastic and thread
through. Pin to one end of the tube and
the nap or the direction in which the sequins scrunch the fabric over it, then tie the elastic
fall: be sure to use the with nap cutting layout. ends. Fold over the raw edges by 5mm,
slide one slightly over the other and pin.

1 Cut out just a single layer instead of folding


the fabric, so tracing your pattern pieces
out in full will make things easier. Pin or weigh
Hand-sew the edges together.

them down and trace around with chalk.


If possible, avoid using your best dressmaking EMBELLISH CRYSTAL TRANSFER
ANTIQUE PINK
shears as the sequins will make the blades YO U R L O O K GALUCHAT, 3
blunt quickly. Embellishment selection is paramount
2 You may need to remove the sequins in the
seam allowances and around the dart
lines before sewing the seams. You can use a
with all types of fabric, but especially
those all-important event gowns, CRYSTAL HEART
& SETTING
where you need to know you will AMETHYST, 10
little pair of scissors without damaging the sparkle and shine. For impact with
thread, so the rest of the sequins dont fall off. class, you cant get better than
It might just mean you need to hand-sew any Swarovski beads and crystals. Try the
bare patches afterwards. Crystal Pearl beads (5810) in the Sweet Shop
3 When choosing a needle size, be sure to
match it to the base fabric. If its really
lightweight, a size 70 would be best. Just make
range for a delicate pearlescent effect using
three different shades and sizes, or the Crystal
Transfer Antique Pink Galuchat, which combines individual
sure you have back-up needles close to hand, crystals into a stunning iron-on transfer. Finally, the Crystal
as sharps will blunt really quickly and are more Heart & Setting Amethyst (4827) with its stylish silver tone
likely to break with special fabrics such as these. setting allows you to say it from the heart with polish.
All these embellishments and more are available from
VISIT GUTHRIE-GHANI.CO.UK FOR beadsdirect.co.uk
LAURENS SEQUIN TOP TUTORIAL CRYSTAL PEARL
BEADS, 6

72 makeittoday.co.uk
TOP TECHNIQUE: F R E N C H S E A M S Class Act
JENNIFER LAUREN ON A CONTINENTAL FINISH TO GIVE YOUR PARTY WEAR A LITTLE OOH LA LA STITCH CHIFFON AND SATIN WITH THE
FASHION AND TEXTILE MUSEUM
I love a French seam, Still feeling a little apprehensive about
1 as its such an effective, stitching with delicate materials? Zandra
classy way to give Rhodes dressmaker Jolanta Cerniauskiene
reinforcement and a is hosting a popular one-day class that
lovely finish. In this can give you the confidence to work with
walkthrough, Ill show high-end fabrics such as chiffon and satin.
you how to use my The Couture Techniques workshop shows
Hunter Tank pattern, which can be almost you how to learn a range of techniques such
completely made up with French seams, as pin hem and machine-rolled hem, and
apart for the centre front, and if youre come away with your own samples for
new to the technique, its the perfect each technique you tackle. 9th December
project. These seams really come into or 13th January, 80, ftmlondon.org
their own at party season its the best
kind of edging to use on delicate, light
and sheer fabrics. They enclose the raw
2 edge of a seam, produce a beautiful
finish inside and out, and they are
really straightforward.

1 With wrong sides together, make a


line of stitching using a 6mm seam
allowance. Press the allowances open,
using a tailors ham to keep the light
angles on the garments centre back
seam in place.

2 Fold the seam in half along the


stitched edge, right sides together,
then press. Place a second line of stitching
along the seam allowance, this time 1cm
3 in from the edge, then press to produce
the French seam.

3 You can do this type of seam with


any amount of allowance; just make
sure the total of both seams equals the
Fashion and Textile Museum

allowance your pattern calls for. Make


sure the first seam is the smaller of the
two; alternatively, trim the first down
before stitching in the second.

VISIT JENNIFERLAURENVINTAGE.COM
FOR MORE USEFUL TUTORIALS

ACTING EDITOR: Sarah Crosland PUBLISHING Make it Today! is published by


sarah.crosland@aceville.co.uk PUBLISHING DIRECTOR: Helen Tudor Aceville Publications Limited. Co.
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REGULARS EDITOR: Elena Thompson All rights reserved. Garments,
GROUP EDITOR: Lynn Martin MARKETING MANAGER: projects and accessories made from
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makeittoday.co.uk 73
I nt
I wanted Sew Over It

ervi
ew
to be welcoming, like
a home from home
Pattern queen and cake fiend Lisa Comfort chats about
her modern vintage inspirations and dressmaking dreams
WE LOVE YOUR MODERN VINTAGE PATTERN solitary hobby that I think it needs that extra
IDEAS: WHAT INSPIRES THEM? dimension, and so having a place to share what
Thank you! I get my inspiration from youve made online with other like-minded
everywhere, mostly just by looking at what people seems really important.
people are wearing in the street. Whenever ANY ADVICE FOR DRESSMAKERS WISHING TO
I see things that look stylish, I tend to use TURN THEIR PASSIONS INTO A PROFESSION?
that as a starting point. Of course, some ideas Personally, I think its important to have
wont work in practice: I once designed a mac, worked in other small businesses before taking
but it ended up having 23 pattern pieces, the plunge, so you can see how they run; its
which just wasnt practical. So I designed very different to a big company. You also need
the Lola Coat instead, as part of the to think about your idea loads, and talk it over
My Capsule Wardrobe City Break range. with lots of people. You cant ever train to run
WHO ARE YOUR INFLUENCES FROM THE your own business its something you learn
WORLD OF SEWING AND FASHION? on the job, as it were. Feeling comfortable
To be honest, I feel really inspired by other about taking risks is imperative.
business women who are nailing their fields. DO YOU HAVE ANY OTHER ASPIRATIONS
Sheryl Sandberg and her Lean In project OR AMBITIONS LEFT TO CONQUER?
(helping professional women achieve their Id love to head out to America and meet some
career goals) are massive inspirations at of our customers out there. Fingers crossed,
the moment. Style-wise, its no secret that Im really hoping that one day, therell be a
I absolutely adore 1950s and 1960s looks. dressmaking-centred show or fair out there,
I love Marilyn for her sass, Brigitte Bardot for where we can exhibit. Its hard to imagine right
her femininity and Audrey Hepburn for her now, but if I wasnt running Sew Over It,
signature chic. Id love to indulge one of my other creative
WAS THE COMFY CAFE VIBE ALWAYS passions. Maybe Id become a make-up artist!
INTEGRAL TO THE VISION FOR YOUR BUSINESS?
When I started Sew Over It, I knew I wanted
it to be warm and welcoming in contrast

Maker Profile
to school and university sewing spaces, which
can be intimidating. It almost needed to feel
like a home from home somewhere that
youd feel comfortable trying something new.
DESCRIBE YOUR CREATIVE SPACE? Alongside which, I love tea and I love cake,
Easy! I created mine with Sew Over It. so I knew theyd have to become a feature
WHATS YOUR EARLIEST SEWING MEMORY? of the business!
With my childminder, embroidering IS IT TRUE THAT, AS A GIRL, YOU TURNED
a marble bag with my initials. DOWN A TRIP TO NEW YORK FOR A
MOST AMUSING FASHION FAUX PAS? A pair SEWING MACHINE?
of trousers I made, which I couldnt put on Yes! It turned out to be a good decision,
because Id sewn up the crotch! I think. Do I ever imagine how my life might
have been if I had picked the trip instead?
WHICH PIECE OF MUSIC BEST SUMS In general, I dont really do What ifs? as
YOU UP? Ooh, thats hard! I love upbeat I prefer to look ahead to the future, rather
songs with positive messages. than dwell on what might have been. Having
WHATS YOUR FAVOURITE CAKE AND TEA said that, Im sure I would have got my hands
COMBO? Earl Grey and a slice of banana on a sewing machine one way or another, so
the outcome would have been the same.
cake. Mmm!
BEST PIECE OF ADVICE YOUVE EVER RECEIVED? HOW CRUCIAL WOULD YOU SAY THE
Setting up your own business wont kill COMMUNITY ASPECT OF SEWING IS TO
you, said my mum! YOUR WORK?
Honestly, I am passionate about engaging with
HOW WOULD YOUR BEST FRIEND DESCRIBE the sewing community on social media and
YOU? Bubbly, caring, bad cook, and through my YouTube channel; its lovely to
hard-working. have that connection. Dressmaking is such a

Visit sewoverit.co.uk for classes and patterns


74 makeittoday.co.uk

Lisa Comfort Interview.indd 74 03/11/2017 12:24


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