Вы находитесь на странице: 1из 245

17.00.

06


,
..

- 2016
2


3
1. -
...9
1.1. - ...10
1.2. VII . . . V . . . 13
1.3. V XIX ...........22
1.4. XIX XX .28
1...46
2.
XX XXI ...47
2.1. ,
..48
2.2. XX XXI
...59
2.3. XX XXI
....78
2.4.
XX XXI .....88
2...93
3.
......94
3.1.
XX XXI ..95
3.2. , ...112
3.3.
......123
3.4.
...153
3.....164
.........165
...167
...176
3


-,
XXI
. ,
,
.

, :
, ;

;

.

.


:

;

;


;

(
20% , ) [89].
,

.
,
,
4

,
. ,


.

,
.
[89].
. ,
,

.
,
,
,
.
,
- . .
, .
, ,
. , ,
Haute couture :
, .
. ,
, ,
, . . , , ,
,
, , .
,
[94].
. ,
, . ,
.
, . -
5

,
. ,
: ,
, , ,
[93].

. : . [4-6],
. [1, 2], . [3], . [8], . [44], . [40], . . [34], .
, . . , . , . , . , . , . . , .
, . , . , .. , . , . , . , .
, . , . . , . , . , . , . , .
, . , . , . , .

.
10 20 .
: . . [4-6], . . [50], . . , . . , . .
, ., ,. . , . . , . . , . . , . .
, . . , . . , . . , . . , . . , . .
, . . , . . , . . .

: .. [75], .. [83], . . [77], .. ,
. . , .. , .. , .. , .. , .. ,
.. , .. , .. , .. , .. , ..
, .. , .. .
, ,
, .
, , , ,
: . , . , . , . , . , .
, .. , . -, . , . --, . , .
, . -, . , . , . , . , .. , .
, . .
,
, ,
: .. [28], .. [52], .. [62], . . [82], ..
[41], . , .. , . , . , .. .
6

,
,
, , , .


- .
:
1) -
VII XXI ;
2) ,
;
3)
XX XXI ;
4) :
; , ;
5)
.


, ,

.
(,
, , -, , -
.) XX XXI .

.
.
SmartArt
. SmartArt ,
. ,
.


, ,
7

. .
:
- ;
- ;
- ;
- ;
(, , ).

-
VII XX :
, ,
.
( XII XXI .),
.

- .



, .



.

,
,
.

1.
,
.
,
.
8

2.
,
, ,
.
3.

.

, ,
, .
8 : 3 , 1
4
.
:
-
, ,
;
- .
,
:
1) (), ,
.
2) Fashion Lux (), -
( 50+), .
3) (), RenatoSolo,
.

.

: , 3 , ,
. 245 .
38 , 14 , 5 18 .
100 27 .
9

1. -


.
. -
VII .
. . XX . . .
:
, , , , , , .

,
.
:
-
;

;
,
VII XIX ;

XIX XX ;

.
:
-; -; -
.
10

1.1.-

, ,
- .
. -
brand , .

. , brand :
,
, , ,
[4].

,
: (Google.ru, Yandex.ru),
( , ABBYY Lingvo,
, Wikipedia, Microsoft Word).


(. 1).
1 /




:

, ,
[
// ..
// ,
., 2001-2007//
http://www.gramota.ru/slovari/info/lop] .
: , ,
, , .


Google.ru 10 . ,
9 . ,
, : . !!!
Yandex.ru 63 . , 20
. , . !
11


. brand ;
ABBYY Lingvo ;
;
Wikipedia ;
Microsoft Word , .


,
.

(.1),
.
, .

,
. 79
1 (. 1 - . 1).
1 (. 1 - . 2).
, ,
: brand, stigma, name, mark, trademark, fashion.

2.
:
1) XII () ,
brandr, , ,
. ,
[110]. , () ;
2) XIII / 1200- (, ) brond
(, ),
(, ) *bran-
*-;
3) XIV / 1300- () brandaz
, *bren- (burn) / * -();
12

4) XV / 1400- (, ) ,
. -
Stigmat, stigmatizare, stigmatizein;
5) XVI / 1550- (, ) brand
, . 1570-
brand new, fresh from the fire,
. 1580-
(,
, ..);
6) XVII / 1600- ()
, 1610-
(), 1630- ()
. brand ;
7) XVIII / 1707- ()
,
,
, ;
8) XIX / 1827- () ,
, ,
.
, , ;
9) XX /1922- (, , )
.

. ,
,
[68].
13

1.2.
VII . . . V . . .

.
,
. :
(, , );
( , , ,
);
(, ,
, ).
,
(. pintadera, pintar - , ).
, ,

: , , , , , , .
,
, , [79].
,
, ,
, , .

( VII . . . V . . .).
,
: , , , ..

. .
, , .
, ,
.
, ,
()
(). ,
, , , , .
14

4000-3100 . 250

. VII IV
, (. 1, ),
.

, .
,
. ,
, , .
(),
. ,
.

, , ,
. , , , , , ,
, , .
,
.
.
. ,
, (. 1, ).
.
(), ,
-. ,
.
.
[79].
,
(.1, ).
.
, , .
,
II
.
15

) . )
1 IV - III . ..

3000 , ,

.
,
, , .. ,
, IV ,
( ) (. 2).
,
.
: , , ,
,
. , 32
(. 3).
16

2 - , IV . . .

3 , IV . . .

-, ,
,
-, , ,
.
, , .
,
, : , , ,
.
17

2600 .. 1700 ..
,
,
(. 4).
.

4 , III I . ..


, , (, ).
.
, .
,
, , , .

. ,
- .
, .
,
18

. , ,
, . .
, .
(I . ..) ,
. ,
.
,
. ,
, ,
.
.
, , .
: , , (.5).
.
. ()
. , , ,
.

5 , I . ..

(221
. ..), . ,
, ,
. ,
19

, ,
.
:
, .
. -
,

.
, , .
VIII . . . V . . .
, .
.
, .
(. 6): ,
, .

6 , I IV . .

,
. ,
.
,
.
IV . . -
archontes tou blattion, ,
. ,
.
, , , ,
20

. comes
commerciorum, 552
kommerkiarkori. ,
.

.
- .
( glypho - , ).
IV .
(. 1, ), (. 3), (. 4)
(. 5).
(. 7). : () ()
( ), .
,
.
, , ,
. , ,
-, .
-
.

) , )
, IV .. II
, III ..
7
21

IV .
,
, .
, ,
.


. , , ,

.
,
: ( ),
. (
..) ,
. :
, , , .
,
, , ,
, , VII V
. -
, , , ,
, , , .
, , ,
, .
: , , ,
, (: ),
, .
.
22

1.3.
V XI
V XI , , .

( V
XI ), , , ,
, .
.
,
, .

[4].
( XI XIV )
,
. ,
- .
,
.
. , ,
.

.
.
, 1180 ,
, , 1200
, 1220 - , 1230 - ,
1240 - , XIV - .
,
, , . XIV
, ,
. , , ,
, .
, .

. .
23

( ).
(. 8).
.
, , ,
(, , , , . .).
:
; ,
.
, ( ), :
(, ,
, ) (, ..);
, ,
(, ..), (, ..)
(, ..).

9
1519
24

()
, ().
: , .
, , , : ,
. , ,
.
, -
, , , .
[24].

.
,
. , ,
.
,
.
,
(. 9; . 2).
, ,
, ,
.

) , ),
, 1330 . , 1400 .
9
25

, , ,
, , ,
, (. 9; . 2).
- ,
- .
, .
, ,
, , ..
, .
-
. , ,
- .
, ,
(, , , .)
. .

,
.
. 1266 XIII
,

[121]. - (),
(), ,
. , :
(. 2 . 5).
.

XIV.
,
, , ,
, .
, .. ,
[103].
26

XIV , (.
10), , , ,
[103].

10 , XIV
, , , , ,
[110]. ,

[6].
XV

. 1540
.
:
, , , , ,
..
, .
XV (1629 1676 .)
, ,
.
.
XVI (1753 1778 .)

.
XVII
.
,
. I
.
27

. 1705
I ,
800
. 1722 , 1726
. 1797
,
5000 . XVIII ,
.
XVIII .
II ,
.
,
.
XIX .,

.
,
,
, ,
,
. -
-, - (, , ,
, ..), ( , .,
, , .) - .
-
: , , , , , ,
.
- .
28

1.4.
XIX XX

(XIX XX .) .

. ,
,
. , XIX
, :
, (
).

. ,
.
. ,
(..
). ,
, .
XIX
. ,
. XX
,
.
,
, ,
[22, 32, 42], [9, 16, 33, 37], [14, 38, 39], [23, 29,
35, 36], [13, 24, 34], [41] [4, 12, 27, 42].

.
,
:
(1938 , ) .

[4];
29

(1946 , )
.
,
.
,
,
[4].

1878 , 1993
.
Procter&Gamble
,

.
, Procter&Gamble.
XIX XX
.
. XIX
(Fast Moving
Consumer Goods, FMCG). 1870 1915 .

.
.
. :
,
.


. ( ,
, ),
.
,
( ).
.
30

1890- : ,
, [4].

, .
, .
.
( ).
, ,
[4].

, (. 11): Disney, Coca-Cola, Avon, Ivory, Gillette, Colgate, Lipton
..

, , ,
, . -
XIX XX ,
(Coca-Cola, Avon, Ivory, Gillette, Colgate, Lipton)
(. 11):
XIX XX ,
(, , )
,
,
,
-
;

,
-
,
- .
31

-Cola

Ivory

Lipton

, , Colgate

Gilette

11 1890.
32


.

. -
..
.
:
,
Moet
& Chandon Nestle (. 12) [108].

, .
;
- ,
.
30 ,
: , Divan japonais
(. 13). ,
[108];
,
.
Chupa-Chups, ,
1969 (. 14)[108];
, , -,
: , ,
-, Vogue Harper`s
Bazaar (. 15) [108].
33


1860 1939. . 1896

. 1894

Bieres
. 1897 de la Meuse Perfecta

12

34

- ,
1864 1901. 1890

, : ,
1893. 1891

13 -

35


1904 1989 . 1969 .


- 1969. Lexus

14

36

Niko
1928 1987 .


Coca-Cola Campbells

15

37

.
,
(XIX XX .).
. , ,
[111]. ()
[111]. .
:
, ( XIII
) [106];
( XIV
III)
[106].

().
aute-couture ( )
.

, XIX -
XX .
, ,
-
[82].
, ,
,
.

, , [41].
.
1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (
) , ,
. ,
, , ,
.
XIX , ,
: (. 16), (. 17), (. 18).
38

16 (1869 - 1936)

17 (1879 1944)

18 (1889 1958)
39


: ,
. . (. 19). XIX
.

: , .
.
19 (1825 1895 .)
ouse of Worth

,
,
(. 20).
40

, ,
,
.

1858 1871. Worth & Bobergh, 1871- 1897.


. (
. )

1897 - 1973. ouse of Worth .

20 ouse of Worth

,
: ,
,
. , ,
.
. , , ,
(. 21) .
La Mode Illustree (1860-1890 .)
, -
.
. La Mode
Illustree Harper's Bazaar
Der Bazar
.
41

21 - ,
Chambre Syndicale De La Couture Parisienne 1868.

1892
VOGUE.
(. 22). XIX
,
, .

.
La Gazette du Bon Ton (1912 1925 .)
.
,
, (. 23).
42

22 VOGUE

23 LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .


43

XIX - XX 3.
,
, (, , ),
(, , ).
. ,
-
, .
.
.

, -
, .

.
: , , ..
.
.
,
.

.
,
,
,
.

,
.
,
[96].
:
, Haute couture;
, Pret-a-porte;
, ,
.
44

,
, , .
.
. ,
( , ) ,
.
,
, , .
(, , ..) ,
.

-. 100 ( 1868 1973 ).
.

.
aute couture ,
.
-. ,
aute couture ,
, aute couture,
demi-couture, prt--porter.
, ,
, (.4).
,
,
.
15 . - -
, . 35
.
. 30 %. 2001
,
- [106, 111].

, ( ),
[106, 111].
45

.

[106].

.
, ,
. ,
.
Haute-couture Pret-a-porter .
,
.

, ,
.
- ,
,
, , -
.

:
I. VII . . . V . . .:
- .
.
II. V . XIX .:
- .
.
- .
.
III. XIX . XX .:
.
.
- ( ,
, .). .
. ,
.. .
46

, , :
1. .
brand/
XII ,
brandr, , , ;
2. brand/

.
3.
, (VII IV . ..).
4. (V XVIII .).
- , ,
,
, .
5.
( )
XIV-XV .,
XV- XVIII ;
6. IX
( ),

;
7.
- (, , ..)
, ,
.
47

2.
XX XXI


.

.
,
,

,
.

,
: .. [4,5,6], . [27], .. [28], ..
[52], .. [62], .. [83], .. [76], .. [77],
.. [79].
:
;

;
XX XXI

;

XX XXI .
:
-; -; .
48

2.1.
,

.
.
.
,
,
.
.
,
,
.

.
, -
, , .
, ,
. ( VII .
. . V . . .) ,
:
,
.
, , .
. ,
, ,
.
.
,

, .
,
.
.
, , .
49


-. , , ,
,
: .
, .
, .
, .

( V
XVIII ).
, ,
.
,
.
( XIX XX )

.
. .. (1715 1771 .)
, ,
.
..
.
. ,
, .
, .
,
- .
, , ,
.
: ,
.
.
-
.
, .
50

.. (1818-1900 .) ,
,
, .
.
.
20-
.
. (1874-1945 .)
. ,
. , , ,
.
. ,
,
,
.

Haute-Couture -
. -
, , .

Haute-Couture , ,
.
Haute-Couture .

. Haute-Couture
, ,
. Haute-Couture
, . -
. - -
.

.
XVIII ., ,
.
,
51

, : , , ( ,
, , ), , , , .

. , ,
: , , .
,
,
.
.
,
,
. -
, .
, ,
.
. ,
,
, [116].

.

. ,
(, ) (, )
, .
, , , , .

, ,
. ,
,
,
[116].

.
(, , , , ) ,
.
52


, ,
[116].
, ,
, , . , , ,
, , ,
, , , .
.
, ,
, , , .
.
, , .
,
: , , , , , , , , , ,
, . ,
.
-
, .
, ,
.
: .
.
.
,
.
.

(. 1, 3 (, )).
53

.. .
: ,
. .
: ,
[6].
:
(.);
(..);
(. );
(..).

.

.
. (. 2): ,
, , , .

(. 3 (, )):
1)
;
2) ,
;
3) .
54


. , :
, , , . .

(. 3 (, )):
1) ( ) ;
2) ( ) ( )
(

);
3) ( ) .

, , ,
, ,

,
- , ,

, , ,
,

, ,
, ,

, , ,
,

2 .
,
: , ,
, , , , ,
, . .
(, , , , , , ,
, ..)
.
55

-
-
-

-

) )

- -

-


-


) )


-

-



) )

3
56


(. 3).

,
.


.
.

, :
1) ,
,
.
.
2) ,

,
.
.
, -
. .
,
.
(.
4):
+ = + = +
,
;
+ = + = +
,
.
57


.
,
, .
, , ,
. , ,
, , , .
,
.

.
.
,
.
,
, , .
,
.
58


.
() -
. ,
,
.
, ,
, . ,
, ,
(,
,
) [37, 38, 39].
59

2.2.

,
, -
, .. , .
, -,
, .
.

,
, , , , .
( , ,
, ). .

,
. XX
industrial design.
, ,

.
-
. .
.

.

( 5):
1) (, , ..)
2) ;
3)
;
4) - ,
.
60



. [6]
, ,
:
1) , .. ( ,
) = ;
2) , (,
, , ..) = ;
3) , .. ,
= , , (- ).

,
[5, 6].
61

.. [6].
: ,
( 6).





, ,

6 ..

..
[6] branded article
.
, , ,
. , ,
, . ,
, ,
.
.

, .
.
.
,
.
,
.

,
(. 5 7): Hermes,
Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Ermenegildo Zegna, Prada, Gucci, Fendi, Salvatore
Ferragamo, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana.
, :
XIX XX XXI ,
;
62


;

;
,
;
,
.

.
: ,
, ,
;
, ;
,
.

, .
,
-
.
,
: , , , ..

, , , ..
,
, ,
, .
, .
- , .
:
;
;
;
;
63

;
;
;
.
,
.
: , , .
, , .
,
, .
, , ,
..
. .
, :
( ), ( ),
().
, .
.
, ,
.
,
.

.
:
( ), (
), ( );
, , , ;
, ,
, , ..

(
, Pret-a-porter
Haute-Couture) (
).
64

, .
.
, (. 25,
).

,
, : , ,
..
: , , , ,
, , , ..
, .
,
,
, , , .
: ,
[124].

.
:
1) , , , ,
..;
2) , , , ..;
3) ,
, ,
..;
4) , ,
..;
5) [124].

.

,
[124].

, , .
65


, .
.
,
.
. ,
,
(.7).

,
, ,
.
, (, , ,
..) .
, , ,
, ,
.
, - ,
[4, 5, 6].
() , ,
( , ..) [102].
.
/ ,
, , ;
(, ) .. ,

,
:
1) HERMES - /Thierry Hermes
2) LOUIS VUITTON - / Louis Vuitton
3) CHANEL - () / Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel
4) ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA - / Ermenegildo Zegna
5) PRADA - / Mario Prada
6) GUCCI - / Guccio Gucci
7) FENDI - / Adele Casagrande Fendi
66

8) SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - / Salvatore Ferragamo


9) CHRISTIAN DIOR - / Christian Dior
10) GIORGIO ARMANI - / Giorgio Armani
11) DOLCE & GABBANA - / Domenico
Dolce and Stefano Gabbana

[6]. :
1) ;
2) ;
3) ;
4) , ;
5) , - , ,
;
6) ,
;
7) .

.
,
.

. ,
,
. ,
.
, ,
.
,
:
(-), ,
.
-
. ,
.
identity: corporate ID brand ID (ID
67

identity ). -
. -
( )
: , .
-
.
-
(. 2): Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Ermenegildo Zegna,
Prada, Gucci, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Christian Dior, Giorgio Armani, Dolce &
Gabbana.
-
- (, ,
, , , ).
( )
.
.
.
, ,
.
: , ,
. , ,
[102].
,
. ,
, .
. -

(
) [51].
,
, .
, .
,
.
6-7.
68

2 -

1)
;

2)
- , ,
,
;
,
( , ,
, ..);
69

3)
,
( ,
..);

4)
,
;

5)
,
, " + +
": , , , ,
(
);
70

6)
;
;

;

"pantone" "ral",
, ,
;

7)
;

;
, ;
71

8)
,
/
: , ,
, .

, ;
, :
, ,
, , ,
, ..
:
. ./We have similar tastes. Great minds
think alike.
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, , , 2007
. . / The new look - which means a
long look. After you go.
, New Look
, 1940-
. / The new sound of freshness.
CHANEL Chance, . , 2003
. / .
DIOR Escale a Portofino, . , 2008
. / I adore it.
DIOR J'adore, . - Christian Dior, 1999


.

( -
(). :
[6].
.
.
72

. , : ,
.. ,

, . ,
,
[102].
:
1)
,
, .
2)

.
3) -
.
: ,
,

. ( + +
) -
.
.
:
= + ( + )
= + ( + + ) =
+ - = - + -

, branded
article , .
,
,
.
,
.

73

.
.
,
[102]:
,
, :
nivea livea, nike hike, adidas adibas, ;

(, , ..);

,
.
,
, .
.
,
: ,
.

.
,
,
.
,
:
1) .
2) .
3) ,

. .
4) ,
, .
5)
( -
().
74

.
,
.
, ,
. , ,
.
. .
.
: , ?
, ..
.
.
, , .
:

;
, ,
;
,
, ;

.

.

:
1) : ,
( - Gucci, - Dior [102]); (,
, ); (, ,
);
2) /
,
, (
[102]);
75

3) ,
: , ,
, , , , (
).
, ,
() -,
. ,
, , ,
.
,
. ,
()
. ,
, , , (
). ,
. ,
.
[30, 40].
:
= ( + ) + = +
=
,

, , ,
, .
,
:
= + ( + + ) + ( + ) =
+ - + = +
- +

: ( ) = -
- ( + + ) = -
() = -
76

,

,
,
. , (Brand Image)
,
[121].
, .
(,
), (
, ).

.
,
[1, 6, 15, 34, 36, 42, 50, 61, 71, 73],
,
, :
1) (, , ..) - /
;
2) () - ;
3) ( ) -
;
4) -
;
5) - .

( 7).
,
,
.
..
[109].
77

5. ( +
)
" - "

4.

" - "

-
3.
" - "

2.

" - "

1.

" - " ..

7

78

2.3. XX XXI


.

.
, , ,
,
.
.

.
,

:
.
.

XX XXI .
.
,
, .
,
.
,
.

. ,
( ).
,
.
,
. .

, ,
79

.
.
,
. , (,
) (, -),
, , ,
,
. ,
, ,
,
. ,
, ;
, .
, , ,
, , [119].
.

- , " ", -
. ,
, - ,

. , ,
( -
).
, ,

.
: ,
, (
- ) ,
.
.
,
( , ),
, [119].
80

[74].
,
(, ,

). ,
, (,
Gloria Jeans ,Sela, Oggi, , , ).
, ,
: .
.
(, ZARA, Adidas, Chanel, D&G,
.Dior).
: , , ,
, , , , (,
Berlei, Leviathan,
Low Classic, Centaur, Hexa by Kuho,
Kira Plastinina).

:
1) :
a) - ZARA, Adidas, Chanel, D&G, .Dior
b) - Berlei, Leviathan, Low Classic, Centaur, Hexa by
Kuho,Kira Plastinina
2) :
a) - , ,
Slava Zaitsev, Yez by Yegor Zaitsev, A La Russe Ulyana Sergeenko
b) - Gloria Jeans ,Sela, Oggi, , , ,
, , Bosco di Ciliegi

8.
.
c ,
:
-
( );
81

- (

);
, ,
;
, , (
, , ..) [119] .





Berlei

Leviathan, Gloria Jeans,
"",
Sela,
ZARA,
Oggi,
Adidas,
Low Classic, ,
Chanel, "Slava Zaitsev",
Centaur ,
D&G, " Yez by Yegor
Hexa by ,
.Dior, Zaitsev", "A La
Kuho, O'STIN,
Calvin Klein, Russe"

Hermes, "Ulyana
,
Ralph Lauren, Sergeenko",
,
Bershka,
Bosco di
Benetton
Kira Ciliegi
"Forward"
Plastinina


82

,
/ ,
, /
.
: luxury (), premium (), middle-up ( ), middle ()
mass-market ( ).
.
(lux) :
Haute couture ( , -
) .
, ,
, ,
. .

. XX
Haute couture c
, a c
. Haute couture
.
, . ,
,
, , Prt--porter
diffusion. ,
. Haute couture .
. .
Haute couture 15 000 1950 . 2000 XXI .
Prt--porter de luxe (. prt--porter, )
. , Haute couture,
/,
. ,
. ,
( ,
..).
, .
, Prt--porter de luxe Designer ready-to-wear de
83

luxe (ready-to-wear ) Premier Designer Young designer ready-to-


wear ( ).

, .
,
,
, ..
,
.
- ,
, ,

.
(premium) :
Prt--porter Ready-to-wear .
,
. ,
,
.
. Prt--
porter Prt--porter de luxe , 1981
Prt--porter .
.
(. diffusion lines) ,
Prt--porter,
, .

.

Prt--porter.
-
.

. ,
,
84

.
, , , .
,
.
,
.
, , . 70- XX
(Gucci, Pierre Cardin .)
( ). 1980
Gucci 22 ,
. Pierre Cardin ,
.
,
Haute couture Prt--porter.
1990-
.
,
.
: Haute couture, Prt--porter .
(brand portfolio). XX
, ,
,
Prt--porter, .
, [106,
111].
- (. bridge ) Prt--porter,
-- - ( ).
- 2008 .
, , a
. - :
(better) ,
;
(contemporary) - ,
.
mass-market ( ) :
85

(mass-market) - ,

: middle-up ( ), middle (),
moderate ( ). .
,
, ,

[106, 111]. , ,
:
(Bershka, Mango, New Yorker, Pull & Bear, Stradivarius
);
( & A, Esprit, LC Waikiki, HoneyLook ).

( 9).

.
.

( 10).

Mass-market (
Luxury () Premium ()
)

Diffusion
Prt--porter Prt-- Bridge lines
Haute lines Middle-up Moderate
de luxe porter (- Middle
couture ( ( (
( ( ()
() - ) )
) ) )
86

Designer Young
ready-to-wear Premier designer Contemporary Family
de luxe ( Designer ( ready-to-wear Better ( Youth (
de luxe ( () ()
) ) )
) )

9

87

.
luxury () / Haute couture : Couture
Atelier Versace, Chanel Haute Couture, Christian Lacroix Haute Couture, Givenchy Haute
Couture, Gautier Paris .

.
luxury () / Prt--porter de luxe :
Chanel, Louis Vuitton. Gucci, Prada, Giorgio Armani, Donna Karan, Versace, Christian Dior,
YSL, Valentino, Fendi, Gianfranco Ferre, Burberry, Kenzo, Ralph Lauren, Christian Lacroix,
Emmanuel Ungano, Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Oscar de la Rente, Halston , Marsheza
.

.
premium () /Prt--porter : Marc
Jacobs, Michael Kors, Max Mara, Calvin Klein, Missioni, Etro, Anna Sui .

.
middle-up ( ),
, : Marc by Marc Jacobs (Marc Jacobs), D&G (Dolce & Gabbana),
Y-3 (Yohji Yamamoto), Versus (Versace), Simply Vera (Vera Wang), Moschino Cheap & Chic
(Moschino), Moschino Love (Moschino ), Miu Miu (Prada), See by Chloe (Chloe), Paul Smith
Jeans (Paul Smith), McQ (Alexander McQueen), DKNY (Donna Karan,)
MICHAELMichaelKors (MichaelKors), Halston Heritage (Halston), Burberry Prorsum, Just
Cavalli (Roberto Cavalli).

.
iddle-up ( )/ bridge (better): Calvin Klein Jeans, Massimo Dutti, Levi
Strauss & Co., Mexx, Tommy Hilfiger .

.
iddle-up ( )/ bridge (contemporary): Benetton, Marks & Spencer,
Motivi, Oasis, Topshop, Zara .

.
Mass-market ( ): Bershka, Sasch, NewYorker, Mango, Calliope,
Jennyfer, Terranova, Sela, Pull & Bear, Stradivarius, & A, Esprit, LC Waikiki, HoneyLook
.

10

88

2.4.
XX XXI

,
, .
,
,
. , ,
,
.
, , .

. ,
, .
, , , , [5].
,
.

.
(),
.
(. 3), ,
, . ,
. ,
.
[84, 85,
86, 87, 88]. ,
, .
( 11).
,

. /
/ /
.

89

( ), ( )
( ).

,


,



( )




11
, ,
-
.

[110]:
,
;
(consumer research)
, .
,
:
1) ,
;
2) ,
;
3) ,
.
90


.
(. American Marketing Association / ): , , ,
,
,
[110].
,
.
, .

,
[84, 85, 86, 87, 88]. ,
,
,
[67].
,
.
:
[49]. ,
,
.
,
, .
,
,
. ,
, , , ,
. ,
[40].
,
.
.:
: , , , ,
. ,
, [53].
91

, , ,
,
, .
,
, . ,
.

8.
,
XX XXI
.
.
, .
, ,
, ( ,
).

.
, , .
, ,
[38, 44, 113, 116].
,
,
. ,
, , ,
.
.
, , ,
.
.

.
,
- :
92

,

,
, .
93

, , :
1. , ,
XX XXI , .
2.
, ,
, .
.
3.
-

.
4. 5 -
: , , , .
5. ,
,
.
6. ,
,
,
.
7. ,
,
.
94

3.

-

.
XX XXI :
, , .
-
,
.



.
:

XX XXI ;

;
,

;
-
.
:
; -; ; .
95

3.1.
XX XXI
,
,
XX
.
.
XX ,
,
.

.

, ,
.
: .
.
.
,
.
, .
.
- .
,
. , ,
, , .

(. 24). .
,
.
,
.
.

(. 25).
96

24 - ()
97

25 .
98

(.
26).
, ,
.
.
,
. -.

.

26 -
, ,
.
. ,
99

. , ,
.
: , ,
, . -
, .
: .
, ,
, .
- ,
.
.
.
XIX
, ,
.
, (1939-1945).

European Recovery Program.

.

. -

., . , . ..

, -
Haute couture.

.

. ,
Prt--porter Ready-to-wear .
.

, .
100

.
, Haute couture
.
, ,
,
, , .
, ,
,
.
,
, .
, - ,
.
.
.
:
.
.
, .

, .
:
Murjani Group ;
;
;
;
;
.
, ,
,
. ,
( -
, ).
( , ).
101

:
,
,
.

.
.
.
, :
( )
( , )
( , . , . )
( )
( )
( ).
:

.
,
. PR
(, , -
..) - ,
.
:
, , , ,
;
, , ;
, ;
..
, ,
, :
1) ;
2) ;
3) ;
4)
102

5)
(, , - ..).
,
, Dolce&Gabbana,
1985 (. 27, . 28).
:
1985 Milano Collezioni;
1988 Dolce Saverio;
1991 - .
( Dolce&Gabbana). Dolce&Gabbana
, ,
, .
,
. D&G
.
. ,
, (. 27).
( Dolce&Gabbana).
Dolce&Gabbana Dolce Saverio.
, ,
, , .

. Dolce&Gabbana
Dolce Saverio .
( Dolce&Gabbana).
Dolce&Gabbana ,
-, : , , , ,
, , , .. (. 27)
, -
, ,
. ,
.
,
,
.
103


Dolce&Gabbana Dolce&Gabbana

27 Dolce&Gabbana

.
(XX ).
,
. . ,

. ,
, .
, , .
,
.
.
XXI
, .
104

, , ,
.
, ,
.
, .

.
, .
,
: Slava Zaitsev, A la Russe, Ulyana
Sergeenko, Denis Simachev.
, .
.
, . ,
.
-
.
,
.

, : ,
,
.
.
. ,

. , ,

. &M
Mass-market ( ) .
2015 $ 409 . Louis
Vuitton . Bloomberg $ 35,7 .
[20]. . .
, Inditex $ 69,8 .
Mass-market ( ) Zara, Oysho
105

, Massimo Dutti, Bershka, Pull and Bear, Stradivarius, Uterque Lefties.


Fast Fashion. Forbes
. ($ 84,7 .).

.

[20].
,
,
.
Fast Fashion Zara, Bershka, Stradivarius, TopShop,
Mango, M, Pull and Bear, Promod .. ,

.
, Fast React Systems.

.
,
, .
,
.
,
. :
Incity, Love Republic, , Kira Plastinina . ,
.
Lux Haute couture () Prt--porter de luxe (
) A la Russe, Uiyana Sergeenko Valentin Yudaskin
.

- Fast fashion, ,

, .
. ,
, ,

106

.
, , .. ,
, ,
.
.

. ,
,
( ,
, , ..).
,
,
, .
,
,
, ,
.

2009
2020 [89].
.
,
: ,
.
. , .

, ( ).

, , ,
. , ,
.
.
,
, ,
[89].
107


, :
1. ,
, ..
.
: " "" (. ),
" " (. ), "" (. ),
"" (. ), "" . , " " (.
), "" (. ), "" (. ).

, : Brother, Oerlikon, Rieter, Lonati, Janome.

.
, ,
;
2. , .
: , , , ,
, ,
. ,
, .
, 2020
, ,
, .
:
: 225 . , 640 .
. 2009 .
. .
3.
. ,
,
( , , )
- ,
. - -
,
,
108

. ,
,

- , .
,
.
- ,
-
. ,
.
4. .
, ,
,
.

, ,
.
( )
20 . ,
,
.
, :
: , , FASHION
pre-collection, , , Le Show ..
.
(Premiere Vision New York , MilanoUnica ,
Texworld , Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics , Colombo International Yarn &
Fabric Show - -, Yarn Expo , ITF Dubai - ..)
.
,
,
, .

- 39 % , -15 %
11 % [89]. ,
109

,
, .

2020 ,

[89].
5.
, , [89].
, ,
.
, .

[89].
6. ,
, , ,
.
.
.
,
.

.
.
- ,
.
. -,
, .
, ,
, .
.

.
. ,
,
. .
110


, , . ,

.
, . ,
,
.
.
, . :
1)
;
2)
, ,
( , ,
);
3)

.
,
. ,
, ,
,
.

( )
,
.
,
.
,

. ,

-
.
111


, ,
, .
, ,
. .
--, ,
, , .
-
.
112

3.2. ,

,
.
. ,
,
.
,
.
, ,
. ,
, , .
: ,
.
,
.
, .
,
.
.
:
, , , , , ..

:
, ..
.

.
.

.
,
.
, ,
.
- : ,
113

, . ., . .

.
,
. ,
, .
,

. -
.

. , ,
, .

, , , ,
, .

, ( 12):
( -,
, ):
,
; ,
;

;
(
, , ,
), , ,
, ,
;
- ( , )
,
, , -,
,
;
114

,
.
(-),
(, , ).






( - -
,
,
( / )
)

-

( ,


,
,

)

12

.
.
, .

. ,
-
.
, ,
.
,
,
.
( 13):
115

( PR,
),
;
( : ,
, , , );
( ,
),
, ,
;
(, , ) (
, , ),
.




(, ,
( )


pr, (

( , ,
)

,
-
) )



13


, .
(, , , , ..),
, .

. ,
.
116

. ,
, .
,
.
,
.
(, , ..) ,
.
, .
, ,
,
. .
, , ,
. ,
.
,
. ,
, .
.
,
[112].
( 14):
( , [112]),
,
,
;
( , ),
, ,
,
;
( ).
117





(
,
)
( ,
)
-

-

14

,
[112].
.
:
1)
.
, ,
( [112]);
2) ,
( [112]).
,
, .
, .
.
[100]
, ,
[99], ,
[90] [97].

, , .
118

:

.
,

,
.

,
.
, ,
, 5 .

.
( 1 10 ).
:
25 - 35 (20 ),
25 - 35 (20 ),
35 - 45 (10 ),
35 - 45 (10 ).


. 20
. 10
10- ,
.
, , .

, .
10 .
,
.

,
, Microsoft
119

Excel. (. 33-34).
(. 35).

10

9

8 25 - 35 (10 )
7
6

5
25 - 35 (10 )
4

3

2
1 35 - 45 (5 )
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

35 - 45 (5 )

28
()

10

9

8 25 - 35 (10 )
7
6

5
25 - 35 (10 )
4

3

2
1 35 - 45 (5 )
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

35 - 45 (10 )
29
()
120

10

9
8 25 - 35 (20 )
7
6

5
25 - 35 (20 )
4

3

2
1 35 - 45 (10 )
0
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

35 - 45 (10 )

30


2- .

.
, .
:
1. (,
, );
2. / (
);
3. / ( );
4. (,
, );
5. (
);
6. - (, ,
);
7.
( );
121

8. (, ,
);
9.
( , , , );
10. .

.

(, , ); /
( );
/ ( ).
35-
45 (20 )
(
), (
),
(, , ),
(, , ).
:
(, ,
), / (
), / (
),
(, , ).
,

.

.
,
.

.
,
PR.
122

, ,
. , ,
-
, , ,
, .
123

3.3.

, -, , I
,
.
.
,
.
, .

, .
- ,
.
,
(, , ) , ,
. , ,
,
(, , ) :
, , ,
.
, , .
.
.
,
,
, , : -
,
, -. 1989
[65]. - , ,
, , , ,
, .
,
.

, .
124

,
, ,
.
. ,
,
[27].
,
-. : ,
, , , -, -,
, , .. , ,
.
luxury () premium ()
,
.
middle-up ( ), middle () mass-market ( )
,
.
,
.

.
. (. 9 . 1):
Moschino
Barby, Mcdonalds ..;
Slava Zaitsev
;
Denis Simachev
,
..

.
.
.
,
125

.
1,5 .

,
. :
.

: A la Russe Incity.
,
.
, :
, ,
-.
. XXI , ,
.

A LA
RUSSE, (. 9 . 2).
2010 . 2015 A la Russe
rt--porter ARnouveau.
- .
- A la Russe ,
,
.
. . A la Russe
,
, ,
..
A la Russe , ..
: ,
( . 14
2015 ).
,
.
(.). (-).
126

.
A la Russe :
1) (. mutbord)
;
2) -,
, ;
3) (, /, ,
);
4)
( ,
);
5)
;
6) ;
7) (. lookbook) (, ..)
;
8)
;
9) ;
10) .
A la Russe
.
(, , ..).
,
. . ,
.
, ,
, .

,
,
.

INCITY 2003 ,
(. 9 . 3).
127


450 180 ,
, , .
[118].
INCITY -
. :
, .
Wildberries Lamoda. mass-market.
: , , .
INCITY
: accessories, basic line, big size, black line, blue line, boys, casual,
evening, everyday, girls, gold line, home textile, kids line, men, men casual, men
city, men smart, men weekend, office, pink line, resort line, romantic, shoes, silver
line, smart, tights line, underwear, weekend, white line.
.

. ,
.
2011 INCITY Disney
. 2011
INCITY,
,
. 2012
INCITY,
CHAPURIN.
INCITY
. -
. ,
. ,
, .
: ,
. ,
. , ,
.
128


MAMA INCITY,
. ,
-
. ,
.
A la Russe Incity
.
,
.

3
A la Russe Incity


A LA RUSSE INCITY

2010 2003

-
()




., . ., ., .
Luxury () Mass-market (

Premium () )
Prt--porter de luxe (
) Middle ()
Prt--porter Moderate

( ) ( )
Diffusion lines
( )
Premier Designer ( Youth ()
) Family ( )
129





(

)
, , ,

, , ,





()
()

()

()

http://www.alarusse.ru/ http://incity.ru
Mama
, , Incity,

, ,


(Wildberries, Lamoda)
- Disney



Chapurin


.
-
,
, [89].

.
.
,

.
-
.
. ,
: Role
Guide, Share Knowledge ..
130

: ,
.
: ( , ..),
(IT, ..).

, ,

.


,
:
1. ():
1) ,
2) ,
3) ;
2. ( ):
1) (),
2) (),
3) ();
3. ( ):
1) ,
2) ,
3) .
, , ,


. ,
-,

.
,
. , ,
,
. :
131

;
- ;
(, , , ,
, , );
(, , );
, ;
;
.

.

.

, .
: ,
.
(, , , ). (
, , ..) ( )
.
(, , , , , , IT).

.
,
- ,
.
-

(. 10).
(, , ..).
,
, ,
(, , ..).
, .
.
,
132

.
,
, .
:
,
.
,
PR.
, ,
.

, .
,
.
, .
(,
, ), - (, , ,
/ ),
( ,
, ,
).

.
. ,
.
, ,
, , ,
.


,
.
,
.
133


.
Haute outure
.
, ( )
(). , ,

.
(, , ),
.

- .
.
.
,
,
.
, , , ,
.., .
, .
:
,
( ),
(
, , ),
.


.

trend board ( ) mood board ( ).
,
,
, (, ,
, ).
134

-.
: WGSN, Carlin Group, Fashion Snoops, The Future Laboratory
Trend Union.
,
, - ,
. ,
:
: , ..;
,
, , , ..;
;
.
,

(, , , , ..).
(trend book)

. ,

. ,
- .
trend board /mood board ,
,
, ..
, , , , ,
..
,
,
.
,
, .
,
(, , ..).
, ,
.. ,
135


(. 31, . 11).

31
trend board /mood board

, , ,
, , ,

.
, .
. ,
- .
, ,
.
,
.

(. 32, . 12).
136

: https://www.pinterest.com
32

137

Haute outure

. ,
.
(. 33).

: https://www.pinterest.com
33


.
, .
,
.

.
-. ,
, ,
(),
138

. ,
. ,
, .
.

. ,
.
.
(,
) (, ) .
-
,
,
.

, ,
.
( ),
( ) (
)
.

.
,
, ,
.
, , ,
.
,

.
.
: , , , , , , , , ,
.. ,
,
139

, .
, ,
.
( , ,
) .
,
.
.
(, , , ..)
(. 34,
. 13).

: . : . : .
: 0000 : 0000 : 0000
: 44 50 : 44 50 : 44 50
: 00-00 . /. : 00-00 . /. : 00-00 . /.
: ______________ : ______________ : ______________
: __________________ : __________________ : __________________
000 000 000

: . : . : .
: 0000 : 0000 : 0000
: 44 50 : 44 50 : 44 50
: 00-00 . /. : 00-00 . /. : 00-00 . /.
: ______________ : ______________ : ______________
: __________________ : __________________ : __________________
000 000 000

34 ( )
140

, 3D
, ,
, , ,
(Marvelous Designer (. 35), Julivi,
Virtual Fashion Professional, DeSL).
,
, ,
. 3D
,
.

http://www.marvelousdesigner.com

35
Marvelous Designer

,
,
(, , , )
.
141

: ,
.
.
,
.
, : REMIERE VISION, TEXWORLD,
INTERTEXTILE (Messe Frankfurt), , CANTON FAIR (. 14).

: , , , ..
.
:
,
, ;
, , ,
;
, , .
, ,
, , - (,
, ). ,
.

.
, ( ,
), ..
, : , ,
, ..

. .
,
.
(, , ).
2-5 , -
.
3
. , ,
142

. -
(, , )
,
.
: ,
. 4.

I.
1)
2) (-, ,
, )
3) : , ,
4)
5)
6) (, ,
)
7) (, , ,
, )
8) (
)
9) -

10) (,
)
11)
( )
II.
1) :
, , ..
2) : , , -,
, ( .. ), ...

3) (
)
4) ,

5) (, , -,
, )
6)
7)

8)

143

III.
1) (, , , , , , , ,
..)
2) (
)
3) -
4) ( )
5) ( )
6) (, ,
)
7) (, , , ,
)
8)
9) / (
, , ..
10) ( , )
11)
12) , ..
13)

,
, .
.
,
. .
:
;
;
;
;
;
;
;

..
.
( ) ,
, .

( ,
144

, ..).
(
).

. :
;
( ,
);
;
, ,
, ( );
;
.

, ,
.
,
. :
. :
1) ( , , ..,
);
2) -
- , , ,

3)
( , -
,
[proforma invois])
4) ( ,
, ,
)
5) ( p./l.,det. p./l., com.inv. , ,
surrended b/l b/l) (
, (/) ).
145

.
(
, , , , ,
..) .
,
.

.
.
.
:
, , ,
;
-
, ,
;
,

;
, ,
, .

(, ..).

. -
.
.
. ,
,
.
,
.
.

.
146

, ,
-
.
,
.
.
,
, ..

Fashion Video Fashion Film.
. -
, . Fashion Film
, : ,
, , .. ,
, : Inez van Lamsweerde Vinoodh Matadin, Luka Finotti, Nick Knight,
Ruth Hogben, Alex Turvey, Steven Meisel, Mat Maitland, Cary Fukunaga, Ava Du Vernay, Roger
Deckker. ,
, -,
, , , , , , .
2008 A Shaded View On Fashion
Film (ASVOFF). 2012
Mode Vision 2012.
Fashion Video
, :
, (fashion film),
(viog).

.
.
, .
, -
, ,
, ,
.
. , .
147

, .
fashion statement,
, .
Fashion Film ,
- ,
.
:
- ;
, ;
, ;
;
;
, ;
;
;
.

.
- ,
.
.
.

( ). ,
.
, (. 15).

, .
:
(
);
-,
;
;
148

;
,
.

. . , ,
. ,
,
.
,
.
,
. , ,
. ,
.
, . , ,
, .
, ,
, .
, , ,
, ..
, , , , .
. .
:
.

.

(. 16).
,
.
.
:
1) (
, )
149

2) (, ,

)
3) (, , ,
, , , ..)
4) ( ,
, / )
5)
(, , , )

.

.
( / )
,
(,
, ).
( ,
..),

.
-
.

5
.
,
.
: ,
, , ,
, , .
150

():

I. :
1)
2) (
)
3)
4) (, , ,
, , )
5) (, , , )
II. :
1) / /

2)
3)
4)
5)
III. :
1) -
2) PR
3)
4) -
5)
( ):

I. ():
1) ( , , )
,
2) ( "-"
)
3) , (,
, , )
4) (
)
5) ( , ,
)
II. ():
1) ( , , ..,
)
2) -
- , ., ,

3)
( , -
,
[proforma invois])
4) ( ,
151

, ,
)
5) ( p./l.,det. p./l., com.inv. , ,
surrended b/l b/l) (
, (/) )
III. ():
1)
2) (,
..)
3)

4) -
5) (
)
( ):

I. :
1) (
.- )

2)

3)
(, , )
4) , ,
( , , ..)
5) (
)
II. :
6) (
, )
7) (, ,

)
8) (, , ,
, , , ..)
9) ( ,
, / )
10)
(, , , )
III. :
1)

2)

3) ( / )

4) (
, ..)
5)
(, , )
152

,
. ,
,
.
,
. .
153

3.4.


,
.
.
.
, -.
- ,
.
:
.
, .
.
, , .
.
, . -
.
. , ,
, , .
, .
, , - [97,
123].
-, -
. ,
, .

. .
.
, , ,
. [123].

. ,
, ,
. ,
154

, ,
,
. ,
.
, .
,
, . , -
, , ,

. , ,
, ,
: ,
, , ,
[92].
, ,
, , ,
, ,
, .
,
, .
, 1970 .
.
,
,
, ,
.
,
.
,
[101]. , , ,
. :
,
, ,
, [94]. [98],
,
155

-, ,
.
, ,
, . ,
- ,
. ,
. ,
.
, -
. ,
. ( . harisma ,
) . [47].
,
,
.
, ,
, . ,
, -
. ,
.
( ),
. ,
( ) -
.
. - ,
.
, ,
[115].
,
-. ,
.
,
. . ,
, , ,
.
156

, ,

[94]:
1) ;
2) ,
;
3) .
,
, ,
. .
, ,
.
.
, -.
, , .
. ,
, ,
, .
, ,
. 1868 , .
. B
,
.
, , .
,
.
. , , ,
, ,
[67].
,
,
( ),
, . ,
, ,
157

. ,
:
,
;
;
.
- ,
. 11 , .

1912 . .
, (19031993) .
.
. ,
, .
, , , .

. ,
, .
, ,
.
, ,
,
,
.

. - . , ,
,
.

. ,
, , ,
, . ,
,
, .
158

: , - Diesel; - ,
- GUESS.

:
1) (: ,
, , ..)
2) ,
-
3) ,
(: INCITY, , GLORIA
GEANS, OGGI ..)
-
, .
:
( ,
, );
( );
( ).
,
:
(, , , ,
, , ..);

;
PR.
-
, [10, 97]:
1) ( communicatio , )
, , .
;
2) ( create , )
. , ,
, , ,
- .
159

, ,
;
3) ,
.
.
.
, ;
4) , ,
.
, .
-, ,
,
. , ,
;
5) ,
, ,
.
.

.
.


,
.
, 4
.
.
: () (haute couture).

. Haute-Couture
,
(. 17). Haute-Couture
.
,
160

,
. , ,
. , ,
, .
.
(. 36, .
18). Haute-Couture ,
,
. , ,
, , . ,
,
.

36 - Chanel Haute Couture ()


()
161


, .
,
.
.
,
, .
.
.
,
, (. 37, . 12).

, .

https://www.pinterest.com
37
162


.
.
, .
,
,
.
.
.
.
,
, .

, Chanel. ,
Haute-Couture
. , Haute-Couture,
(. 38).
.

.

38 Haute-Couture
163

.
,
.
.
.
,

.
, .

.

. .
,
,
.
.
, ,
.
,
.
.
.
.
, .
.
.
, .

, ( , ,
) .
164

, , :
1. , ,
,
XXI .
2. -
- ,
.
3. -
: ,
, ,
(, , - ..).
4.
- ,
,
.
5. ,
,
.
6.
,
.
7. -

, ,
.
165


1.
-
.
2.
, , , , , .

4000-3100 .
3.
,
:
(VII . . . V . . .) -
, : ,
, .
.
( V . XIX .) .
, ,
-
-, , .
. (XIV-XV .)
- .
( XIX . .)
Haute couture, Prt--porter
. -

.
4. , ,
- .
, : ,
, ..
,
.
, .
.

166

- : ,
, , , .
5.
- , :
, , , .
, -
, . ,
,
.
6.
: (,
, ), (
), (
, ), (,
).
7.
,
:
;
- ;
, ,
(, , );
, trend board/mood board, , ,
, , ;
, , - .
fashion film, look book, , ;

, , .
,

.
-
.
167


1. , .. / .. // -
. 2001. 2. . 12-25.
2. , .. / .. . ,
2003. 119 .
3. . : : XXI . /
.. .: -, 2003. 448 .
4. .. . / .. . : -
, 2011. 178 .
5. .. . / .. . : -
, 2011. 420 .
6. .. / .. //
.: . 2009. . 12. .
141-152.
7. . . /
. : .. : 2003 . 248 .
8. . . . / .. .: .
, 2003. 415 .
9. .. PR . /.. . .: , 2006.
10. . ( | ,
. . / . . .: ,1994. .217-227.
11. . . . / . . . .: , 2005. 784 .
12. . ./ . . .: : , 2007. 168 .
13. . . . . /.. . .:
, 2013. 496 .
14. . . / .. . .,
1956. 369 .
15. .. / .. //
. . . 2011. 3. .271-275
16. .. . /.. .,
1994. 160.
168

17. . . / . .: , 2007.
251 .
18. . : . / . .:
, 2008. 180 .
19. ' . . 10 . / .
' , 2002. 224 .
20. / . -
, ; 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 .
21. PROfashion /
21; 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 .
22. .. : . .
. : 24.00.01 / . ., 2009. 180 .
23. . : / . // . . ,
.; . . , . KONEMANN, 2000. 655 .
24. . . 1. . 2. . / .
. .: , 1996. 671 .
25. . . 2. . ( .266-291) / . . .:
, 1996. 607 .
26. . . . / .. .: , 2010. 782 .
27. , . / . . . ..
, . . .. -. : , 2009.
172 .
28. .. / .. , .. ,
.., .. , .., .. // .
: , 1988. 350 .
29. . . / .. //
: . .: , 2009. .
298-303.
30. . . / ..
// . 2011. 2 (11). . 54 - 60.
31. . . : . / .. //
'04. . .: , 2004.
.69-73.
169

32. . . :
: . / .. . .: - , 2011.
187 .
33. . . : / .. // . .
. 2011. 1. . 148-152.
34. .. : , , . / ..
. . . .. . . . .. . :
, 2007. 448 .
35. . . / . . .: , 2008. 496
.
36. p K. -: ,
. 2- . . ./ . . .: , 2005. 704 .
37. ., ., . .
/ . , . , . . : , 1966.
608 .
38. . . / . . . : ., 2006.
320 .
39. .. : / . .
. .: ., 2001. 192 .
40. . NO LOGO: . / . . .: ., 2003. 199
.
41. .. , ..
./ .. , .. : , 2014. 119 .
42. .., .. /
.., .. . / . 2013. 1. .115-131
43. . : :
, 2005. 140 .
44. ., . - B2B- / . , . :
. .: , 2007. 432 .
45. .., .., .. / ..
, .. , .. . .: , 2008. 321 .
46. /
2006. 12. .25-29.
170

47. .. . / .. . .: -, 2007.
648 .
48. ., .. . / . , .. .
.: 2009. 115 .
49. .. . / .. . 2011 ., 6.,. 1.,. 118122
50. . . . /.. . .: -, 2004. 207 . . 7,
122-123.
51. . . - . . / .. . .:
, 2014. 736 .
52. . . / . . . . : , 2003. 439 .
53. . / . . : . , .
.: , 2007. 232 .
54. . ! / . . .: 2009. 250 .
55. . . : / .. . .:
-, 2010.
56. .. - / .. .
2- ., . . .: -89, 2003. 96.
57. ., . / . , . . .: ,
2007. 288 .
58. .. ? / .. //
. . . . 2009. 3(7). . 88-95.
59. . ., . ., . .
/ . . , . . , . . . 5- .,
. .: -, 2007. 495 .
60. .. : . / .. . :
, 2007. 106 .
61. .. / .. //
, - . 2013. 7.
62. ..
( , ) / .. . .: , 2001.
374 .
63. ., . . / . , . . .: :
, 2003. 783 .
171

64. . : Armani Zara. / . . .:


, 2006. 298 .
65. . . . , , / . .
. , .: , 1999. 464 .
66. . . 18 20 : / .
. .: TASCHEN, -, 2008. 720 .
67. . ., . .
. / . . , . . . .: , 2007. 63 .
68. .
() / . // 2020.
2013. 1(2)
69. . . : , , ,
, / .. . . : , 2009. 721
.
70. . . . . PR. / . . . .:
2012 ., :
. 26 /.
71. .. / .. . //
. 2007. 2. . 56-63.
72. . / . // magazin.
2003. 4-5 (7).
73. . . / . . .
.. .. : . .: , 2006. 544 .
74. - .
: / - // :
-. 2008. 4.


75. .. : .
. . : 19.00.05 / . ., 2003. 214 .
76. .. -
: . . .:17.00.06 / . ., 2011. 410 .
172

77. ..
: . . .:17.00.06 / . .,
2011. 358 .
78. .. PR- : . .
. : 22.00.04 / . ., 2006. .115
79. ..
: . . .:17.00.06 / .
, 2010. 130 .
80. .. : . . . . :
09.00.01 / . ., 2003. 20 .
81. .. - : . . .
: 23.00.02 / . ., 2008. 143 .
82. .. . , ,
. . . .:17.00.06 / . ., 2012. 447
.
83. .. : . . . :
24.00.01 / . , 2010. 220 .


84. ( ) 18.12.2006 N 230-
(. 31.12.2014)
85. 28.12.2000 N 1230 (. 18.11.2002, . 02.02.2006) "
" (
14.03.2001 N 2610) //1992-2015
86. 04.06.1999 "
" //1992-2015
87. 118. ,
/"
" //1992-2015
88. 1480. /"
" (
,
27.11.2009 N 17) (. 10.10.2014, . 08.05.2015// 1992-2015
173

89. 2020 .
[ 2009 .
3 2008 -1369
15 2008 -9-
4244.]

90. Blumer H. Fashion: from Class Differentiation to Collective Selection // The Sociological
Quarterly. 1969
91. Bourdieu P. Distinction: A Social Criticue of The Judgment of Taste / P. Bourdieu ; translated
bu R.Nice. Cambridge: Harvard University Press, 1984
92. Bourdieu P. Haute Couture and Haute Culture / P. Bourdieu // Sociology in Question
London: SAGE Publications, 1993
93. Brenninkmeyer, I. The Sociology of Fashion / I. Brenninkmeyer. Koln-Opladen
Westdeutsher Verlag, 1963
94. Crane, D. Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing // D. Crane.
Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2000
95. Eisenstadt, S.N. // Social Institutions: The Concept / S.N. Eisenstadt // International
Enciclopedia of the Social Sciences / D. L. Sils (ed.). New York: Macmillan and Free Press,
1968. 14. p. 409-421
96. Hanser, A. // The Social History of Art / A. Hanser. London: Routledge, 1968.
97. Polhemus T. // Fashion and Anti-fashion: Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment // Ted
Polhemus, Lynn Procter, London: Thames & Hudson Ltd 1978
98. Schaufeli W.B., Salanova M. Gonzalez-Roma V., Bakker A.B. The measurement of
engagement and burnout: A Two Sample Confirmatory Factor Analistic Approach / Journal of
Happiness Studies, 2001
99. Spenser, H. The Principles of Sociology / New York: D. Aooleton and Co, 1966(1896)
100. Tarde G. The Laws of Imitation / translated bu E.C. Parsons. / New York: Henry Holt; 1903
101. Wolf. J. The Social Production of Art / J. Wolf. London: Allen & Unwin, 1983


102. 2008 (19/26) [ ] / : http://ksu.edu.ru
103. - [ ] /
: http://revolution.allbest.ru
174

104. . [ ] / . //
. 1990. : http://www.politnauka.org/library/classic/veber-
hg.php
105. : Chambre syndicale de
la haute couture parisienne. (The
Fdration Franaise de la Couture, du Prt--Porter des Couturiers et des Crateurs de Mode
Paris) [ ] / : www.modeaparis.com/en/federation
106. (Industry). - [ ] / : http://forexaw.com
107. , [
] / :
http://www.vedomosti.ru/business/articles/2013/03/19/syrevoe_golodanie
108. [ ] / : http://adme.ru
109. [ ] /
: http://pandia.ru
110. [ ] /
: https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/
111. [ ] /
: https://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/
112. [ ] / :
http://knowledge.allbest.ru
113. [ ] / :
http://revolution.allbest.ru
114. .. [ ] / :
http://philosophy.ru/library/semiotics/morris_theory_signs.doc
115. : [ ] / :
http://lib.rus.ec
116. [ ] / :
http://coolreferat.com
117. ARNOUVEAU [ ] / :
http://www.arnouveau.com
118. INCITY [ ] / :
http://incity.ru
119. [
] / : http://knowledge.allbest.ru
175

120. ., ., . ,
, . [ ] / .
, . , . // . 1999. 400 . :
http://evartist.narod.ru/text1/20.htm
121. ( "
" ) [ ] / : http://knowledge.allbest.ru
122. (
"Alice Nails") [ ] / : http://knowledge.allbest.ru
A LA RUSSE [ ] / :
http://www.alarusse.ru/ru/
123. . [ ] / :
http://otherreferats.allbest.ru
124. [ ] / :
http://znaytovar.ru
125. . . .
[ ] / . // :
http://www.gumer.info/bibliotek_Buks/Culture/Eko/Inn_Povt.php
126. : . [ ] /
: http://geum.ru/lib/slovo-kak-edinitsa-rechi.htm
127. [ ] /
: https://www.pinterest.com
176

177

1
1 -

http://www.etymonline.com

1) Barnhart, Robert K., ed., Barnhart Dictionary of Etymology, H.W. Wilson Co., 1988.
2) Buck, Carl Darling, A Dictionary of Selected Synonyms in the Principal Indo-European
Languages, University of Chicago, 1949, reprinted 1988.
3) Cassidy, Frederic G., and Hall, Joan Houston, eds., Dictionary of American Regional English,
Harvard University Press, 1985-2002.
4) de Vaan, Michiel, Etymological Dictionary of Latin and the other Italic Languages, vol. 7, of
Leiden Indo-European Etymological Dictionary Series, Alexander Lubotsky ed., Leiden: Brill,
2008.
5) Farmer, John S., Slang and Its Analogues Past and Present, London, 1890.
6) Fowler, H.W., A Dictionary of Modern English Usage, Oxford Univ. Press, 1926.
7) Gamillscheg, Ernst, Etymologisches Wrterbuch der Franzsischen Sprache, Heidelberg: Carl
Winter, 1928.
8) Grose, Francis, A Classical Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue, London, 1785; 2nd edition,
London, 1788; 3rd edition, London, 1796; expanded by others as Lexicon Balatronicum. A
Dictionary of Buckish Slang, University Wit, and Pickpocket Eloquence, London, 1811.
9) Hall, J.R. Clark, A Concise Anglo-Saxon Dictionary, Cambridge University Press, 1894, reprint
with supplement by Herbert D. Meritt, University of Toronto Press, 1984.
10) Hindley, Alan, Frederick W. Langley, Brian J. Levy, Old French-English Dictionary, Cambridge
University Press, 2000.
11) Kipfer, Barbara Ann, ed., and Robert L. Chapman, Dictionary of American Slang, 4th ed.,
HarperCollins, 2007.
12) Klein, Dr. Ernest, A Comprehensive Etymological Dictionary of the English Language,
Amsterdam: Elsevier Scientific Publishing Co., 1971.
13) Lewis, Charlton T., Elementary Latin Dictionary, Oxford, 1890.
14) Liberman, Anatoly, Analytic Dictionary of English Etymology, University of Minnesota Press,
2008.
15) Liddell, Henry George, and Robert Scott, eds., Intermediate Greek-English Lexicon, Oxford
Univ. Press, 1883.
16) McSparran, Frances, chief editor, The Middle English Compendium, University of Michigan,
2006.
17) Room, Adrian, Place Names of the World, 2nd ed., McFarland & Co., 2006.
18) The Oxford English Dictionary, 2nd ed., Clarendon Press, 1989.
19) Watkins, Calvert, ed., The American Heritage Dictionary of Indo-European Roots, 2nd ed.,
Houghton Mifflin Co., 2000.
20) Weekley, Ernest, An Etymological Dictionary of Modern English, John Murray, 1921; reprint
1967, Dover Publications.
21) Whitney, William Dwight, ed., The Century Dictionary and Cyclopedia, New York: The Century
Co., 1902.
22) Zoga, Geir T., A Concise Dictionary of Old Icelandic, reprint, University of Toronto Press,
2004.
23) Agnes, Michael, ed. in chief, Webster's New World College Dictionary, fourth edition,
MacMillan, 1999.
24) Allen, Richard Hinckley, Star Names and Their Meanings, London: Stechert, 1899.
25) Ayto, John, Dictionary of Word Origins, Arcade Publishing, 1990.
26) ----------, 20th Century Words, Oxford University Press, 1999.
27) Bardsley, Charles Wareing, English Surnames, London: Chatto and Windus, 5th ed., 1915.
178

28) Barney, Stephen A., Word-Hoard, Yale University Press, 1977.


29) Barrre, Albert, Argot and Slang, London, 1889.
30) Barrre, Albert, and Charles G. Leland, A Dictionary of Slang, Jargon & Cant, Ballantyne Press,
1890.
31) Bartlett, John Russell, Dictionary of Americanisms, 2nd ed., Boston: Little, Brown and
Company, 1859.
32) Brachet, A., An Etymological Dictionary of the French Language, transl. G.W. Kitchin, Oxford,
1882.
33) Bright, William, Native American Placenames of the United States, University of Oklahoma
Press, 2004.
34) Brockett, John Trotter, A Glossary of North Country Words, Newcastle, 1829.
35) Craigie, Sir William A., and James R. Hulbert, A Dictionary of American English on Historical
Principles, University of Chicago Press, 1938.
36) Diez, Friederich, Etymologisches Wrterbuch der Romanischen Sprachen, Bonn, 1853.
37) Donkin, T.C., An Etymological Dictionary of the Romance Languages, Edinburgh, 1864.
38) Elson, Louis C., Elson's Music Dictionary, Boston: Oliver Ditson Co., 1905.
39) Farmer, David Hugh, Oxford Dictionary of Saints, Oxford Paperback, 1978.
40) Flood, W.E., The Origins of Chemical Names, London: Oldbourne Book Co., 1963.
41) Fowler, H.W., A Dictionary of Modern English Usage, 2nd edition, revised by Sir Ernest
Gowers, Oxford Univ. Press, 1965.
42) Gelling, Margaret, Signposts to the Past: Place-Names and the History of England, Chichester:
Phillimore & Co., 3rd ed., 1997.
43) Gildersleeve, Basil L., Gildersleeve's Latin Grammar, Macmillan & Co., 1895.
44) Gordon, E.V., An Introduction to Old Norse, 2nd ed., rev., Oxford University Press, 1956.
45) Grimm, Jacob, and Wilhelm Grimm, Deutsches Wrterbuch, Leipzig, S. Hirzel, 1911.
46) Hatefeld, Adolphe, & Arsne Darmesteter, Dictionnaire Gnral de la Langue Franaise, Paris:
Librairie Delagrave, 1926.
47) Herman, Jzsef, Vulgar Latin (Le latin vulgaire) transl. Roger Wright, Penn State, 2000.
48) Hoblyn, Richard Dennis, A Dictionary of Term Used in Medicine, 2nd ed., London, 1844.
49) Holthausen, Ferd., Etymologisches Wrterbuch der Englischen Sprache, Leipzig: Bernhard
Tauchnitz, 1927.
50) Jamieson, John, D.D., A Dictionary of the Scottish Language (abridged edition), Edinburgh,
1846.
51) Johnson, Francis, A Dictionary of Persian, Arabic, and English, London, 1852.
52) Karttunen, Frances, An Analytical Dictionary of Nahuatl, University of Texas, 1983.
53) Kent, Roland G., Old Persian, New Haven, Conn., American Oriental Society, 1953.
54) Kluge, Friedrich, Etymologisches Wrterbuch der deutschen Sprache, 24 durchgesehene, Berlin,
Walter de Gruyter, 2002.
55) Lass, Roger, Old English, A Historical Linguistic Companion, Cambridge University Press,
1994.
56) Lyovin, Anatole V., An Introduction to the Languages of the World, Oxford University Press,
1997.
57) Mencken, H.L., The American Language, Alfred A. Knopf, 4th ed., 1965.
58) Mahoney, Kevin, Latdict online Latin dictionary and grammar resource.
59) Mills, A.D., A Dictionary of English Place Names, 2nd ed., Oxford: Oxford University Press,
1998.
60) Monier-Williams, Sir Monier, A Sanskrit-English Dictionary, Etymologically and Philologically
Arranged, Oxford University Press, 1899.
61) Niermeyer, J.F. and van de Kieft, C., Mediae Latinitatis Lexicon Minus, E.J. Brill, Amsterdam,
1976.
62) Partridge, Eric, Slang To-day and Yesterday, 3rd ed., Barnes & Noble, 1950.
179

63) Pickering, John, A Vocabulary, or Collection of Words and Phrases Which Have Been Supposed
to be Peculiar to the United States of America, Boston, 1816.
64) Pokorny, Julius, Indogermanisches Etymologisches Wrterbuch, Tbingen: A. Francke Verlag,
1959.
65) Rawson, Hugh, Wicked Words, Crown Publishers, 1989.
66) Ringe, Don, From Proto-Indo-European to Proto-Germanic, Oxford, 2006.
67) Simpson, D.P., Cassell's New Latin Dictionary, Funk & Wagnall's, 1959.
68) Smith, William, ed., A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities, London: John Murray, 1878.
69) Stratmann, Francis H., & Henry Bradley, A Middle-English Dictionary, Oxford, 1891.
70) Thayer, Joseph Henry, Greek-English Lexicon of the New Testament, American Book Co., 1889.
71) Thornton, Richard H., An American Glossary, Philadelphia: Lippincott, 1912.
72) Tucker, T.G., Etymological Dictionary of Latin, Ares Publishers, 1976 (reprint of 1931 edition).
73) Upton, Clive & J.D.A. Widdowson, An Atlas of English Dialect, Oxford Univ. Press, 1996.
74) Venezky, Richard L., The American Way of Spelling, The Guilford Press, 1999.
75) Walsh, William S., Handy-Book of Literary Curiosities, Philadelphia: J.B. Lippincott Company,
1892.
76) Watts, Victor, The Cambridge Dictionary of English Place-Names, Cambridge Univ. Press, 2004.
77) Wilson, R.M., and Reaney, Percy H., Dictionary of English Surnames, 3rd ed., Oxford Univ.
Press, 1995.
78) Wright, Joseph, The English Dialect Dictionary, London, 1900.
79) Wright, Thomas, ed., Popular Treatises on Science Written During the Middle Ages, London,
1841.

BRAND

brand (v.)
c. 1400, "to brand, cauterize; stigmatize," originally of criminal marks or cauterized wounds,
from brand (n.). As a means of marking property, 1580s; figuratively from c. 1600, often in a
bad sense, with the criminal marking in mind. Related: Branded; branding.
brand (n.)
Old English brand, brond "fire, flame; firebrand, piece of burning wood, torch," and (poetic)
"sword," from Proto-Germanic *brandaz (cognates: Old Norse brandr, Old High
German brant, Old Frisian brond "firebrand, blade of a sword," German brand "fire"), from
root *bran-/*bren- (see burn (v.)). Meaning "identifying mark made by a hot iron" (1550s)
broadened by 1827 to "a particular make of goods." Brand name is from 1922.
brand-new (adj.)
1570s, from brand (n.) + new. Originally it must have meant "fresh from the fire"
(Shakespeare has fire-new).
brandish (v.)
mid-14c., from Old French brandiss-, present participle stem of brandir "to flourish (a
sword)" (12c.), from brant "blade of a sword, prow of a ship," of Frankish origin
(see brand(n.)). Related: Brandished; brandishing.
firebrand (n.)
also fire-brand, c. 1200, "piece of wood kindled at a fire, a piece of something burning,"
from fire (n.) + brand (n.). Used for spreading fire. Figurative sense of "one who kindles
mischief or passions" is from late 14c.
180

STIGMA

stigmatism (n.)
1660s, "a branding," from Greek stigmatizein, from stigmat-, stem of stigma (see stigma).
Meaning "condition of being affected with stigmata" is from 1897.
stigma (n.)
1590s (earlier stigme, c. 1400), "mark made on skin by burning with a hot iron," from
Latin stigma (plural stigmata), from Greek stigma (genitive stigmatos) "mark of a pointed
instrument, puncture, tattoo-mark, brand," from root of stizein "to mark, tattoo," from PIE
root *steig- "to stick; pointed" (see stick (v.)).
Figurative meaning "a mark of disgrace" in English is from 1610s. Stigmas "marks
resembling the wounds on the body of Christ, appearing supernaturally on the bodies of the
devout" is from 1630s; earlier stigmate (late 14c.), from Latin stigmata.
stigmatize (v.)
1580s, "to brand or tattoo," from Medieval Latin stigmatizare, from Greek stigmatizein,
from stigmat-, stem of stigma (see stigma). Meaning "to blemish" is from 1610s (figurative),
1630s (literal). Related: Stigmatized; stigmatizing.
cauterize (v.)
c. 1400, from Old French cauterisier, from Late Latin cauterizare "to burn or brand with a
hot iron," from Greek kauteriazein, from kauter "burning or branding iron," fromkaiein "to
burn" (see caustic). Related: Cauterized; cauterizing.

NAME

name (n.)
Old English nama, noma "name, reputation," from Proto-Germanic *namon (cognates: Old
Saxon namo, Old Frisian nama, Old High German namo, German Name, Middle
Dutch name, Dutch naam, Old Norse nafn, Gothic namo "name"), from PIE *nomn-
(cognates: Sanskrit nama; Avestan nama; Greek onoma, onyma; Latin nomen; Old Church
Slavonic ime, genitive imene; Russian imya; Old Irish ainm; Old Welsh anu "name").
Meaning "famous person" is from 1610s. Meaning "one's reputation" is from c. 1300. As a
modifier meaning "well-known," first attested 1938. Name brand is from 1944; name-
calling attested from 1846; name-dropper first recorded 1947. name-tag is from 1903; name-
child attested from 1845. The name of the game "the essential thing or quality" is from 1966;
to have one's name in lights "be a famous performer" is from 1929.
He who once a good name gets,
May piss a bed, and say he sweats.
["Dictionary of Buckish Slang, University Wit and Pickpocket Eloquence," London, 1811]
name (v.)
Old English namian "to name, call; nominate, appoint," from source of name (n.).
Related: Named; naming.

MARK

mark (n.1)
"trace, impression," Old English mearc (West Saxon), merc (Mercian) "boundary, sign, limit,
mark," from Proto-Germanic *marko (cognates: Old Norse merki "boundary,
sign,"mrk "forest," which often marked a frontier; Old Frisian merke,
Gothic marka "boundary, frontier," Dutch merk "mark, brand," German Mark "boundary,
boundary land"), from PIE *merg- "edge, boundary, border" (cognates:
Latin margo "margin;" Avestan mareza- "border," Old Irish mruig, Irish bruig "borderland,"
Welsh bro "district").
181

The primary sense is probably "boundary," which had evolved by Old English through "sign
of a boundary," through "sign in general," then to "impression or trace forming a sign."
Meaning "any visible trace or impression" first recorded c. 1200. Sense of "line drawn to
indicate starting point of a race" (as in on your marks ...) first attested 1887. The Middle
English sense of "target" (c. 1200) is the notion in marksman and slang sense "victim of a
swindle" (1883). The notion of "sign, token" is behind the meaning "numerical award given
by a teacher" (1829). Influenced by Scandinavian cognates.
mark (v.)
"to put a mark on," Old English mearcian (West Saxon), merciga (Anglian) "to trace out
boundaries," from Proto-Germanic *markojan (cognates: Old Norse merkja, Old
Saxonmarkon, Old Frisian merkia, Old High German marchon, German merken "to mark,
note," Middle Dutch and Dutch merken), from the root of mark (n.1).
Influenced by Scandinavian cognates. Meaning "to have a mark" is from c. 1400; that of "to
notice, observe" is late 14c. Meaning "to put a numerical price on an object for sale" led to
verbal phrase mark down (1859). Mark time (1833) is from military drill.
Related: Marked; marking. Old French merchier "to mark, note, stamp, brand" is a Germanic
loan-word.
mark (n.2)
"unit of money or weight," late Old English marc, a unit of weight (chiefly for gold or silver)
equal to about eight ounces, probably from Old Norse mrk "unit of weight," cognate with
German Mark, probably ultimately a derivative of mark (n.1), perhaps in sense of "imprinted
weight or coin." Used from 18c. in reference to various continental coinages, especially. the
silver coin of Germany first issued 1875.

TRADEMARK

trademark (n.)
also trade-mark, 1838 (the thing itself attested continuously from 14c., apparently originally
the watermarks on paper), from trade (n.) + mark (n.1). Figurative use by 1869. As a verb,
from 1904. Related: Trademarked; trademarking.

FASHION

fashion (n.)
c. 1300, fasoun, "physical make-up or composition; form, shape; appearance," from Old
French faon, fachon, fazon "face, appearance; construction, pattern, design; thing done;
beauty; manner, characteristic feature" (12c.), from Latin factionem (nominative factio) "a
making or doing, a preparing," also "group of people acting together," from facere "to make"
(see factitious).
Especially "style, manner" of make, dress, or embellishment (late 14c.); hence "prevailing
custom; mode of dress and adornment prevailing in a place and time" (late 15c.). Meaning
"good style, conformity to fashionable society's tastes" is from 1630s.
To call a fashion wearable is the kiss of death. No new fashion worth its salt is wearable.
[Eugenia Sheppard, "New York Herald Tribune," Jan. 13, 1960]
In Middle English also spelled faschyoun, facune, faction, etc. Fashion plate (1851)
originally was "full-page picture in a popular magazine showing the prevailing or latest style
of dress," in reference to the typographic plate from which it was printed. Transferred sense
of "well-dressed person" had emerged by 1920s. After a fashion "to a certain extent" is from
1530s. Shakespeare (c. 1600) has both in fashion and out of fashion.
fashion (v.)
"to form, give shape to," early 15c.; see fashion (n.). Related: Fashioned; fashioning.
182

1486


, VI, ( )

1
,
183

2 ()

( , )
( ) . .. -, ,
1724.
2
184

2 ()

-. 18
,
(1783-1848)

3
185

2 ()

1896 .
II

1896 .

4
186

2 ()

5 XVII - XIX
187

1
Haute Couture XIX
HARPER'S BAZAAR c 1867
188

3 ()

2
Haute Couture XIX
VANITY FAIR c 1868
189

3 ()

3
Haute Couture XIX
VOGUE c 1892
190

3 ()

LASSITUDE LA GLASE OU UN COUP


Robe de dine de Paul Poiret D`OEIL EN PASSANT
Illustration: Lepape Manteau do soir de Paul Poiret
llustration: Marty

LE CONSEILLER DES DAMES LA FLEUR ET LE MIROIR


Robe et Manteau pour le Theatre Robe du soir de Cheruit
Illustration: Barbier Illustration: Brunelleschi

4
Haute Couture XIX
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .
191

3 ()

DEUX HEURES DU MATIN L`AVERSE INTEMPESTIVE


Manteau de Worth Robe pour la cote D`Azur de Worth
Illustration: Barbier Illustration: Barbier

COROMANDEL LE DEPART POUR LE CASINO


Manteau et robe du soir Manteau du soir de Worth
Illustration: Barbier Illustration: Barbier

5
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .
192

3 ()

LA CALINE LA COQUETTE SURPRISE


Robe de Dauillet Veston de Larsen Illustration: Robe du soir de Worth
Marty Illustration: Marty

NIGHT-TIME FAREWELLS ESPEREZ


Robe du soir de Paquin Robe du soir de Worth
Illustration: Marty Illustration: Barbier

6
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .
193

3 ()

TU VAS TROP VITE, MAMAN FUMEE


Robe de fillette de Jeanne Lanvin Robe du soir de Beer
Illustration: Brissaud Illustration: Barbier

SORTILEGES LA CAPE NOIRE


Robe du soir de Beer Habit et Peierine de soiree
Illustration: Barbier Illustration: Boutet de Monvel

7
LA GAZETTE DU BON TON 1912 -1925 .
194

4
1
( 2015.)

1) Acne Studios, 48) Jean-Charles De Castelbajac,


2) Adeline Andr, 49) Jitrois,
3) Af Vandevorst, 50) John Galliano,
4) Agns B, 51) John Ribbe,
5) Akris, 52) Junko Shimada,
6) Alexander Mc Queen, 53) Juun J.,Kenzo,
7) Alexis Mabille, 54) Krisvanassche,
8) Andrew Gn, Ann Demeulemeester, 55) Lanvin,
9) Anne Valrie Hash, 56) Lonard,
10) Anthony Vaccarello, 57) Loewe,
11) Azzaro, 58) Louis Vuitton,
12) Azzedine Alaa, 59) Lucien Pellat-Finet,
13) Balenciaga, 60) Lutz Huelle,
14) Balmain, 61) Maison Martin Margiela,
15) Barbara Bui, 62) Manish Arora,
16) Bouchra Jarrar, 63) Martin Grant,Maurizio Galante,
17) Cacharel, 64) Maxime Simoens,
18) Carven, 65) Miharayasuhiro,
19) Celine, 66) Miu Miu,
20) Cerruti, 67) Mugler,
21) Chalayan, 68) Nina Ricci,
22) Chanel, 69) Paul Smith,
23) Chlo, 70) Paule Ka,
24) Christian Dior, 71) Peachoo+Krejberg,
25) Christophe Josse, 72) Pierre Cardin,
26) Damir Doma, 73) Raf Simons,
27) Dice Kayek, 74) Rick Owens,
28) Dries Van , 75) Rochas,
29) Oten, 76) Roland Mouret,
30) Elie Saab, 77) Sacai,
31) Emanuel Ungaro, 78) Sharon Wauchob,
32) Faconnable,Felipe 79) Shiatzy Chen,
33) Oliveira Baptista, 80) Sonia Rykiel,
34) Francesco Smalto, 81) Stella Mccartney,
35) Frank Sorbier, 82) Stphane Rolland,
36) Gaspard Yurkievich, 83) Tsumori Chisato,
37) Giambattista Valli, 84) Valentino,
38) Giorgio Armani, 85) Vanessa Bruno,
39) Givenchy, 86) Vronique Leroy,
40) Gustavolins, 87) Versace,
41) Guy Laroche, 88) Viktor&Rolf,
42) Haider Ackermann, 89) Vivienne Westwood,
43) Henrik Vibskov, 90) Wooyoungmi,
44) Herms, 91) Yohji Yamamoto,
45) Isabel Marant, 92) Yves Saint Laurent,
46) Issey Miyake, 93) Zilli,
47) Jean Paul Gaultier, 94) Zucca
/ Chambre syndicale de la
haute couture parisienne. / The Fdration
Franaise de la Couture, du Prt--Porter des Couturiers et des Crateurs de Mode - Paris
www.modeaparis.com/en/federation
5 ,

1 Hermes c 1837 / www.hermes.com/

2 Louis Vuitton c 1854 / www.louisvuitton.com/

()
3 Chanel c 1909 / www.chanel.com/

Ermenegildo
4 c 1910 / www.zegna.com/
Zegna

5 Prada c 1913 / www.prada.com/


195

6 Gucci c 1921 / www.gucci.com/



7 Fendi c 1925 / www.fendi.com/

Salvatore
8 c 1927 / www.ferragamo.com/
Ferragamo

9 Christian Dior c 1946 / www.dior.com/


Giorgio
10 c 1975 / www.armani.com/
Armani
Dolce &
11 c 1985 / www.dolcegabbana.com/
Gabbana
5 ()

, , , , ,
1 Hermes , ., .

, , , , , , , ,
2 Louis Vuitton ., .
, ,
, , , , , , , ,
3 Chanel ., ., .,
, , ,

Ermenegildo , , , , , ,
4 .
Zegna

, , , , , , , ,
5 Prada .
196

, , ,
, , , , , , , ,
6 Gucci ., ., .
, ,
, , , , , , , ,
7 Fendi .
,

Salvatore , , , , , . , ,
8 .
Ferragamo ,

, , , . , ,
9 Christian Dior , ., ., .
, ,
, , , , , . , ,
10 Giorgio Armani ., ., .
,
Dolce & , , , , , , , ,
11 ., ., .
Gabbana , ,
6 -

1 Hermes

2 Louis Vuitton
197

3 Chanel

Ermenegildo
4
Zegna
6 () -

5 Prada

6 Gucci
198

7 Fendi

Salvatore
8
Ferragamo
6 () -

9 Christian Dior
199

10 Giorgio Armani

Dolce &
11
Gabbana
7
200

1 Hermes
7 ()
201

2 Louis Vuitton
7 ()
202

3 Chanel
7 ()
203

4 Ermenegildo Zegna
7 ()
204

5 Prada
7 ()
205

6 Gucci
7 ()
206

7 Fendi
7 ()
207

8 Salvatore Ferragamo
7 ()
208

9 Christian Dior
7 ()
209

10 Giorgio Armani
7 ()
210

11 Dolce & Gabbana


211

8
1

,
,
[50].
, ,

().
, [13].
, ,
,
[74].
, ,
( ) ,
, [59].
, ,

(). , ,
,
[71].
,
[110].

II

. ,
,
[19].
, , .
.
, , , .
, [7].
, ,
,
[57].
,
, [36].
,
, [34].
[45].
212

III

,
, [52].
, ,
, ()

, [110].
, , ,
.
,
[70].
, ,
.
, ,
, [44].
, .
,
.
, , , , ,
, [42].


, .
,
.
9
213

1
9 ()
214

2 A la Russe
9 ()
215

3 INCITY
10 -
216
10 () -
217
10 () -
218
11


219

1
11 ()


220

2
11 ()


221

3
11 ()


222

4
11 ()


223

5
12
224

: https://www.pinterest.com

1

12 ()
225

: https://www.pinterest.com

2

12 ()
226

: https://www.pinterest.com

3

12 ()
227

4
12 ()
228

4
12 ()

,

229

5 - -
12 ()


230

6 - -
12 ()
, 1
231

7
13

2015-2016 1
232




: . : . : . : .
: 020115 : 0403DS15 : 0403DS15 : 0403DS15
: 50 60 : 50 60 : 50 60 : 50 60
: 00-00 . /. : 00-00 . /. : 00-00 . /. : 00-00 . /.
: : : :
11 100% 97%, 3 % 97%, 3 % 100%
: 00-000 TCX : 00-000 TCX : 00-000 TCX : 00-000 TCX
000 000 000 000
13 ()

. : - 2017, .




. , $
., $


1 ,
051 8-20 100 4,07 12
97%, 3 %

,
2
052 , 8-16 150 2,58 8
11 100% -


,
233

3 053 8-20 100 5,89 18


-

100%
V-
4
054 8-20 100 6,45 20
11


5 055 ,
SML 120 6,34 20
100% -


6 056 8-16 80 4,96 15
98%, 2%

7 057 100%, 8-20 120 6,72 20

11
14
234
14 ()
235
14 ()
236
14 ()
237
14 ()
238
15
239
15
240
16 ( H&F)
241
242

17 Haute-Couture

Elie Saab Couture Exhibition at the Four Seasons Geneva

Esprit Dior Exhibition in Museum of Contemporary Art Shanghai

Exhibition Paris Haute Couture Presented by Swarovski at the Htel de Ville


243

18 Haute-Couture

VALENTINO CHRISTIAN DIOR

THIERRY MUGLER JASON WO


244

18 Haute-Couture

HAUTE-COUTURE ATELIER VERSACE

HAUTE-COUTURE STEPHANE ROLAND


245

18 Haute-Couture
Gianfranco Ferr