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Thunderbird Storm
Allen key) to 12Nm. I started with 5Nm, then
9Nm and then 12Nm. It maybe useful to know
that the original manual stated the same tightening
sequence as releasing. However in the updated
manual for 2012 it has different numbers
whereby; 1=5, 2=6, 3=6, 4= 8. 5=3, 6=2, 7=4, 8=
1. In either case the theory is the same; tighten in
progressive opposites. Number 2 as picture below
is very awkward to get to. None of my angled
adapters would fit and I didnt have a torque
wrench skinny enough to fit in. So I made an
adapter to fit over an Allen key which gave me
some distance. Maybe experienced mechanics
tighten by feel but Id be interested to hear what
others use to get in there.
1 5 8 4
118. Reinstall the coolant pipe. Place a smear of
grease around the inside of the pipe to make it
easier to slide on. Once in place tighten the
clamps using a Philips screwdriver.
2 6 7 3
119. Move the thermostat/coolant entry pipe back into
position. Put a little grease on the inside of the
117. Reinstall the 4 ignition coils with the connectors
hose to make it easier to slip onto the coolant pipe.
facing the rear of the engine. Smear a bit of silicone
grease on the rubber part before inserting to
increase water resistance and reduce the risk of
corrosion.
No tape Tape
127. Reinstall the screw securing the radiator filler using 132. Tighten the hose clamps for the coolant hose
8mm socket (9Nm if you want to be exact). and radiator filler.
142. Return the pink wire with the U-clip under the
138. Move the main harness into place and bend the throttle cables but over the larger two connectors
nearby and reconnect with the female.
tag back over it.
144. Slide the connector with the U-clip back into Tighten this screw
the side of the plastic central wiring holder.
147. Tighten the screw towards the top right of the
145. Pop the throttle cables back into place on the wiring with a T30 head to a sensible degree. Note
holder and note that the left one goes over the top the bracket is on the bottom, the plastic bracket in
and the right one goes underneath- see pictures the middle and the bracket with the metal insert is
below. on the top.
Lower pipe
Bleed Nipple
165. Put the bolt and sheath at the rear of the tank
back into the hole and screw the nut on finger
tight but do not torque yet.
34 Thunderbird Storm
169. Now you need to make sure all the air is out of
the system. Remove the radiator cap. Reconnect
the instrument panel and battery. Turn the ignition
on and start the bike. You will probably see the
coolant drop and air come out the opening. Blip
the throttle to further encourage a change in
coolant pressure. Then turn the bike off. If the
coolant level went down then poor some more in.
I found the easiest way to do this was with a long
syringe but you may have other methods; remove
the tank again or have an L-shaped pipe. Repeat
166. Once the rear bolt is in, lift the tank from the front this process as needed until there appears to be no
and put in the tank brace. more air in the system and the coolant is full.
Syringe
167. Reconnect the fuel hose and clip the blue bit back 170. Once fully bleed and burped, put the radiator
into the lock position. If it isnt all the way in and cap on. Keep turning it until it is fully tight, as
locked, fuel will leak out which will be dangerous. just one turn will lead to a leak. Also check that
the right type of radiator cap is in place- it needs
168. Reconnect the breather hose, fuel pump connector to be 1.2Bar.
and fuel sensor connector.
171. Optional- This is a good time to double check
Fuel pump connector Fuel level sensor for leaks and the operation of the cooling, before
you put everything back. Connect up DealerTool
or equivalent to the ECU (see ECU guide for
further details). Turn on the bike and monitor it.
When the temperature of the bike gets to 1040C
then the cooling fan should come on. The
thermostat opens at 820C, you can remove and
check this but it isnt standard maintenance
unless you suspect and issue. If everything
works as it should with no leaks carry on.
172. Remove the tank brace and lower the tank into 179. Install the rider and pillion seat using a 5Hex
position making sure that none of the hoses head.
become kinked or trapped.
180. Fire up the bike and pray you have done it all
173. Tighten the front tank fixing sensibly using the correct. Let her warm up and see if the coolant in
4-Hex head (8Nm to be precise, but you may strip the expansion tank needs topping up. Once at the
it if not careful). correct level replace the expansion tank cover using
8mm socket and tighten sensibly.
175. Reconnect the main cable to the rear of the If all okay, give yourself a pat on the back, this is a
instrument panel and slide the rubber seal into monster of a job.
place to prevent water and/or dirt getting in.
Replace any cable ties needed in the area. Job Done!