I've been working on a recipe to simplify growing

Pan cyans.
They can be difficult at times, with this method you
can grow them in 5 easy steps. This recipe was in-
tended for P. cyanescens, but can also be used for
cubensis.

1-Measure and prepare your substrate

2-Load substrate into the jars and pressure cook
3-Innoculate with spores, liquid culture , agar
wedge or slurry
4-Apply casing layer
5-Fruit your jars

I've been using plastic PP5 containers containers

which work great. I can fit 9 into the PC at once,
and this recipe will make 9 containers. Each lid has
a 1/2 hole drilled in the top with a tyvek patch. I
use a hot glue gun to apply the filter patch. Here's
a pic of the lid and container.
1- Measure and prepare your substrate
• Shred 10 cups of horse manure very finely and
soak in water overnite. I like to add a half cup
of bleach and hydrated lime to the water. The
next day pour thru a collander and squeeze the
manure out by hand. Set the manure aside,
and remember it will not be pasteurized.
• Add 10 cups of vermiculite to a large bowl and
stir in 2 cups of brown rice flour. Moisten the
vermiculite and brown rice flour to field capac-
ity using regular or distilled water.
 • Combine the BRF/verm with the horse manure
and mix it up really well. You want to evenly
distribute the brown rice flour.

2- Load substrate into the jars and pressure

cook
Gently pack down the substrate so there's no big
air spaces. As usual, add a nice layer of dry ver-
miculite on top. Seal the lids and cover with alu-
minum foil. Sterilize in the Pressure Cooker for 1
hour.

3- Innoculate with spores, liquid culture ,

agar wedge or slurry
If you only have spores, you can also use this sub-
strate recipe. Starting with spores will add about 1
week to the colonization time. My agar method
goes as follows, shoot 6 ccs of sterile water onto a
colonized agar plate. Using the needle tip, mix up
the Mycelium and water and draw the slurry back
into the syringe. No need to dig into the agar
layer, just scrape the Mycelium off the surface of
the agar . inoculate the containers with 6 cc of
Mycelium water. They'll be colonized within 15
days and ready to fruit.

4-Apply casing layer

I like to use 50/50 cactus mix and vermiculite . Be-
fore mixing in the vermiculite , add hydrated lime
and gypsum to the cactus mix, this will help pH
balance the casing layer. This casing mix works
great for Pans, it has good aeration and is fairly
contam resistant. The cactus mix contains forest
humus, sphaghnum peat moss, earthworm cast-
ings , and sand. I pasteurize the casing mix for 1
hour. After it cools, apply the casing layer 1/4 - 1/
2 inch deep. Hydrate the casing layer really well
and cover the jars with foil for a few days. Usually
2-3 days is sufficient, this gives the the Mycelium
a chance to recover. Make sure to poke a few holes
in the foil to allow air exchange and prevent cob-
web mold.

5- Fruit your jars

Finally! The fun part. Remove the foil from the jars
and place them into the fruiting chamber. Only
mist the casing if it's dry. Misting the Mycelium
can delay pinset, and misting pins can cause
Aborts . Pans will normally start Pinning 7-10 days
after casing . Just remember to keep the temps
warm, the air fresh, and the humidity high. That's
it for Waylit's Pan cyan Tek.

Good Luck
~Waylitjim

Here's some Pan Cambos fruiting in containers:

Here's Goliath showing off it's heavy spore load

Here's an Isolate of Goliath that's being tested

out.
The 3 factors when choosing an Isolate were:
Pinset, Size, and Quickness.
These are one day away from harvest.
And the final shots before decapitation
I remove the lid and use 3 or 4 inoculation points,
with 6 cc's of LC.
The jars are fully colonized in 2 weeks time, and
ready for phase II.
If you plan on using spores, I recommend adding a
bit more BRF to
the formula. I believe Golly is trying equal parts
manure, verm and BRF.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Recordings
Very cool and informative grow log. What's the
humidity and air exchange gotta be kept at
for the cyans to grow at a steady rate?
Pans like it a bit warmer then cubs:
incubation & spawn run - 79-84°F
Cropping - 75-80° F with relative humidity @ 85-
92%
These were kept in a greenhouse which stayed
warm and humid with lots of fresh air.
A humidifier was set to run every other hour for
one hour. Air exchange was provided with
an air pump and tubing which directs fresh air to
the different shelves of the greenhouse.
Optimal air exchange is twice an hour, although I
like continuous fresh air.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BennyBlanco
were do u get the containers pp5
Look for any polypropylene containers that have
the (PP5) stamp.
They usually have the rating in a triangle on the
bottom.

The heat mat is made by Hydrofarm, they make

the best (safest) heat mats on the market.
The thermostat has a temperature control range of
68-95 deg F. Smaller mats are available,
but mine is (48 in. X 20 in.) It's placed on the bot-
tom shelf of the greenhouse, with nothing
sitting directly on top of it. It's recommended to
use a thermostat, but if you don't, make sure
you get a quality heat mat...otherwise it could be a
fire hazard. The Hydrofarm mats are made
really well, meaning they don't overheat, so you
don't really need the thermostat.

The process of strain isolation is the same with all

species, whether it's
cubensis or cyanescens, you'll need to find a supe-
rior substrain . It's best to
start with just one drop of spore solution on agar
and then seperate the
strongest growth to new dishes untill you're down
to only one substrain per
dish, then you can fruit each substrain . This proc-
ess can take a while, but
in the end, you end up with a master culture which
can be kept for years.
RR did a nice writeup on this a while back, here's
the link.
http://mycotopia.net/discus/messages...tml?10672
30771

Sometimes it makes good sense to go multispore,

clone your ideal specimen, and grow it till it
won't grow no more... that could be years.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 711
What is the potency of Pan cyan compared to cu-
bies. Weaker/Stronger?
Pan cyans, at the very least are 3 times stronger
than cubensis. Some say 5 to 6X as strong. Cu-
bensis is one of the largest Psilocybes out there,
but they're definitely not the strongest. This is one
reason exotics are so precious in the myco com-
munity. They're very potent!

As an alternative Pan cyan substrate , try steriliz-

ing a mixture of manure,
vermiculite , Perlite and ryegrass seed. inoculate ,
and let the jars colonize
completely. Fruit from the container or lay this mix
out in a small tray and
case with a thin layer. Allow this to recover for 48
hours. The vermiculite
has good water retention, Perlite holds some but
adds good fluff, and the
ryegrass seed does both. As long as you add some
grain or seed to the
manure mix, you can inoculate with spores but it's
never a good idea
to pasteurize compost intended for spores, always
sterilize first.

I know the casing mix I use has nutes in it, mostly

from the wormcastings,
and cottonseed meal. Overlay is not a problem
with Pans, so encouraging the
Mycelium to colonize the casing layer has been
helpful in my experience.

The Pan Viets below are fruiting from the same

substrate recipe outlined above. Once the con-
tainers were colonized, they were dumped into a
shallow tray, cased and fruited. This tray is the re-
sult of cloning . For those wondering how to in-
crease yields when working with cyans, cloning is
indeed the most efficient method. Tissue was re-
moved from the inside of a large stem, transferred
to agar , and injected into containers.
~WLJ

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fungusaurus
Amazing flush man!
What are these containers you speak of? Do you
crumble the colonized sub.?
They're the ones I use in my Pan cyan Tek. Just
standard PP5 containers, with a hole in the lid for
air exchange. These hold the final fruiting sub-
strate , which is pressure cooked for 1 hour. Once
they're fully colonized, they are crumbled into
trays for fruiting . The tray above has 3 containers
in it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Invitro
Was your clone material taken from a single
shroom or
from a cluster .
The clone was taken from a single fruit, which was
part of a cluster. The stem was twisted to expose
the sterile flesh inside. Using a scalpel, a small
piece of tissue was extracted and placed on a dish
of MEA.

These went a little long, notice the heavy spore

deposit on the caps. This is a Pan Viet clone .
Indoor
Outdoor
Mycology brings out the best in what Mother Na-
ture provides for us.
Thanks to all the Topiates for the love and support
along the way. I encourage you all to experiment
with Pan cyans and other exotics. There's always
more to learn after cubensis, and exotics will bring
back that great feeling of joy and satisfaction you
had after your first grow.
Love,
WLJ

Hey Golly, yes the clone came from the first flush .
With cyans I usually only go for one flush . A 2nd
is always possible, but I find under optimal condi-
tions, cyans will give a heavy 1st flush liek the
tray above. After the 1st, my trays seem to lack
vigor and the fruits are sparse in comparison.
Quote:
Originally Posted by red_lenses
Was this clone taken from an Isolated well fruit-
ing substrain , or could similar results come from
a tray with only a couple fruits.
You don't have to clone from a proven substrain .
A large fruit worthy of cloning is an excellent sub-
strain . By cloning you're bypassing the process of
creating isolates. If you go multispore and only
get five mushrooms, just clone the biggest one.
Your future trays should perform better then
multispore , and the fruits will be very similar to
the original cloned material.

Quote:
Originally Posted by red_lenses
Do you think cased rye (goliath) would fruit? or
would it be better to spawn to a few layers of
composted h-poo?
Your chances of getting fruits are much better with
a manure based substrate . Try to prepare some
jars following my Pan cyan tek, it's one of the easi-
est methods for success. One of the benefits is you
can shoot spores directly into a manure based sub-
strate , which is also your final fruiting substrate.
MEA = Malt Extract Agar
http://www.sporeworks.com/xcart/cata...p-1-c-25
3.html
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