KH4434-Kuliah 003 - 1718 Ombak

KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM
LECTURE # 3
OCEAN WAVE THEORIES
Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Faculty of Engineering 1
Universiti Kebangsaan Malaysia
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Environmental loadings KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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Contents KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Wave characteristics
• Boundary value problem
• Small-amplitude wave theory
– Velocity potential
– Wave dispersion relations
– Wave kinematics
– Wave dynamics
• Non-linear wave theories

Types of Waves KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM
Typical Period
• Tides • 12-24 hours
• Storm surges • 1-10 hours
• Internal Waves • 2 minutes-10 hours
• Tsunamis • 10 minutes-2 hours
• Wind Waves • 1-25 seconds
• Capillary waves • <0.1 seconds

Faculty of Engineering
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KEJ AWAM MARITIM

Wave Description KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Wave evolution near the coast is a very complex

problem
– Turbulence  wave breaking
• Chaotic velocity patterns
• Air-entrainment, spray
– Current patterns  riptides
– Waves can be huge
– Reefs and sand bars
– Beaches move

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Wave Characteristics KEJ AWAM MARITIM
Definition of terms…
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Boundary Value Problem KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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Boundary Conditions KEJ AWAM MARITIM
GE  xx   zz  0
BBC z  0
KFSBC  z   t   x x
1 2
DFSBC  t  g 
2
 
 x   z2  C ( t )
PBC  ( x, z, t )   ( x  L, z, t )   ( x, z, t  T )
 ( x, z, t )   ( x  L, z, t )   ( x, z, t  T )


KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• To examine this complex situation mathematically,

we would need to solve the Navier-Stokes equations:
It is still very hard to do this, and nearly impossible

for large coastal regions.
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KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Simplifications:
– Fluid is homogeneous & Incompressible
– Surface tension/Coriolis effect neglected
– Inviscid & irrotational flow = no turbulence
– Wave does not interact with any other water motions,
like currents
– Waves are small compared to the water depth
– Seafloor is horizontal & fixed
Linear Potential Wave Theory

or Airy’s Wave Theory
(small-amplitude theory)

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Wave theories KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM
LINEAR WAVE THEORY

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Small-Amplitude Wave Theory (I) KEJ AWAM MARITIM
GE  xx   zz  0
BBC z  0
KFSBC z  t
DFSBC  t  g   C (t )
PBC  ( x, z, t )   ( x  L, z, t )   ( x, z, t  T )
 ( x, z, t )   ( x  L, z, t )   ( x, z, t  T )
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Small-Amplitude Wave theory (2) KEJ AWAM MARITIM
H
  cos( kx   t )
2
gH cosh k ( z  d )
  sin( kx   t )
2 cosh kd
C (t )  0

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Wave dispersion relation (1) KEJ AWAM MARITIM
To determine the wave length with given wave

period and water depth
g 2  2 d 
L T tanh  
2  L 

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Small Amplitude Wave Theory
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KEJ AWAM MARITIM
All Formulas Depend on L (or d/L)

gT 2  2 d 
L
2
tanh 
 L 
 Whoops ! [3]
 2 d 
Deep : tanh kd = tanh  1 (2.4)
 L 
 2 d   2 d  (2.5)
Shallow : tanh kd = tanh   
 L   L 
gT 2 (2.6)
Lo 
2

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Solving the Implicit Equation KEJ AWAM MARITIM
You know H, T and d
gT 2 d
Lo  Lo
2
d Wave Table d
Lo Approximation L

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Small Amplitude Wave Theory KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM
Wave Table

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Linear Wave Description KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Use of function table

– Find d/Lo
– Find associated d/L
– Knowing d, then determine L
• Example
– Find L, when T=1.0secs and d=0.7m
– Find L, when T=7.0 secs and d = 11.9m

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Linear Wave Description KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• If we are given T (or f) to find L  to make

our lives easier:
Java Applets for Coastal Engineering
http://www.coastal.udel.edu/faculty/rad/
index.html


KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• We can also use SOLVER or GOALSEEK in excel.

– This will be the best approach

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W a v e T a b le C a lc u la to r
T itle : E x a m p le 2 .1
IN P U T A R E A : In s e rt th e v a lu e s in th e b o x e s S u rfa c e A t z = -4 .0 B o tto m
G ra vity g (m /s 2 ) 9 .8 0 6 9 .8 0 6 9 .8 0 6
F lu id D e n s ity Rho (k g /m 3 ) 1035 1035 1035
K in e m a tic V is c o s ity Nu (m 2 /s ) 0 .0 0 0 0 0 1 0 .0 0 0 0 0 1 0 .0 0 0 0 0 1
In c id e n t W a v e P e rio d (s ) 8 .0 0 8 .0 0 8 .0 0
In c id e n t W a v e H e ig h t (m ) 1 .5 0 1 .5 0 1 .5 0
In c id e n t W a te r D e p th (m ) 6 .0 0 6 .0 0 6 .0 0
D e p th o f In te re s t (-) (-)z (m ) 0 .0 0 -4 .0 0 -6 .0 0
W A V E T A B L E C A L C U L A T IO N :
D e p th o f w a te r d (m ) 6 .0 0 0 6 .0 0 0 6 .0 0 0
W a v e P e rio d T (s ) 8 .0 0 0 8 .0 0 0 8 .0 0 0
W a v e H e ig h t H (m ) 1 .5 0 0 1 .5 0 0 1 .5 0 0
D e p th o f In te re s t (-) (-)z ! (m ) 0 .0 0 0 -4 .0 0 0 -6 .0 0 0
D e e p W a te r W a v e L e n g th (T a b le 2 .2 - E q 3 ) Lo (m ) 9 9 .8 4 0 9 9 .8 4 0 9 9 .8 4 0
D e e p W a te r W a v e S p e e d (T a b le 2 .2 - E q 2 ) Co (m /s ) 1 2 .4 8 0 1 2 .4 8 0 1 2 .4 8 0
d /L o 0 .0 6 0 0 .0 6 0 0 .0 6 0
D e e p W a te r A rg u m e n t [2 *P i*d /L o ] 0 .3 7 8 0 .3 7 8 0 .3 7 8
W a v e S p e e d (E q 2 .1 7 ) C (m /s ) 7 .1 8 9 7 .1 8 9 7 .1 8 9
W a v e L e n g th (= C T ) L (m ) 5 7 .5 1 3 5 7 .5 1 3 5 7 .5 1 3
A rg u m e n t (k d = 2 *P i*d /L ) 0 .6 5 5 0 .6 5 5 0 .6 5 5
s in h (k d ) 0 .7 0 3 0 .7 0 3 0 .7 0 3
c o s h (k d ) 1 .2 2 3 1 .2 2 3 1 .2 2 3
ta n h (k d ) 0 .5 7 5 0 .5 7 5 0 .5 7 5
G ro u p V e lo c ity P a ra m e te r (T a b le 2 .2 - E q . 1 3 ) n 0 .8 8 1 0 .8 8 1 0 .8 8 1
G ro u p V e lo c ity (= n C ) Cg (m /s ) 6 .3 3 4 6 .3 3 4 6 .3 3 4
D e p th b e lo w E le v a tio n (-z) D=d+z (m ) 6 .0 0 0 2 .0 0 0 0 .0 0 0

A rg u m e n t a t d e p th (-z ) (= k D ) 0 .6 5 5 0 .2 1 8 0 .0 0 0
s in h (k D ) 0 .7 0 3 0 .2 2 0 0 .0 0 0
c o s h (k D ) 1 .2 2 3 1 .0 2 4 1 .0 0 0
S e m i M a jo r A x is (T a b le 2 .2 - E q . 6 ) A (m ) 1 .3 0 4 1 .0 9 2 1 .0 6 6
S e m i-M in o r A x is (T a b le 2 .2 - E q . 7 ) B (m ) 0 .7 5 0 0 .2 3 5 0 .0 0 0
M a xim u m H o riz o n ta l V e lo c ity (T a b le 2 .2 - E q . 4 ) <u> (m /s ) 1 .0 2 4 0 .8 5 7 0 .8 3 7
M a xim u m V e rtic a l V e lo c ity (T a b le 2 .2 - E q . 5 ) <v> (m /s ) 0 .5 8 9 0 .1 8 4 0 .0 0 0
P re s s u re R e s p o n s e F a c to r (T a b le 2 .2 - E q 9 ) Kp 1 .0 0 0 0 .8 3 8 0 .8 1 8
M a xim u m P re s s u re F lu c tu a tio n (= K p *H ) D el p (m ) 1 .5 0 0 1 .2 5 6 1 .2 2 7
E n e rg y D e n s ity (T a b le 2 .2 - E q . 1 0 ) E (k j/m 2 ) 2 .8 5 4 2 .8 5 4 2 .8 5 4
W a v e P o w e r (T a b le 2 .2 - E q . 1 1 ) P (k w /m ) 1 8 .0 8 1 1 8 .0 8 1 1 8 .0 8 1
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M a s s T ra n s p o rt V e lo c ity (T a b le 2 .2 - E q . 1 4 ) Ub (m /s ) 0 .1 2 2 0 .1 2 2 0 .1 2 2
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Wave characteristics KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Wave base is 1/2 wave length

– Negligible water movement due to waves below this depth

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Deep-water wave KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Depth of water is greater than 1/2 wavelength

• Speed of wave form (celerity) is proportional to
wavelength

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Shallow-water wave KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Water depth is less than 1/20 wavelength

• Friction with seafloor retards speed
• Wave speed (celerity) is proportional to depth of water
• Orbital motion is flattened

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KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• It is also termed as “short” or “long” wave.

– A wave is considered short when L/d<2
– A wave is long when L/d>20

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Wave dispersion relation KEJ AWAM MARITIM
Deep water (d/L>0.5)
gT 2
L 
2
Shallow Water (d/L<0.05)
L   gd T
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Transitional waves KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Water depth is 1/2 to 1/20 of wavelength

• Characteristics of deep and shallow-water waves
• Wave speed (celerity) is proportional to both wavelength
and depth of water

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Determination of wave length KEJ AWAM MARITIM
(I) Hunt’s formula (1979)

a 1  0 .666
2 d
L a 2  0 . 355
2 y
y  6
1 an yn a 3  0 . 1608465608
n 1
a 4  0 .0632098765
 2d a 5  0 . 0217540484
y
g a 6  0 . 0065407983

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Determination of Wave Length (2) KEJ AWAM MARITIM
(II) Eckart’s (1952) approximation
gT 2  4 2 d 
L tanh  2

2  gT 


KEJ AWAM MARITIM
• Given L to find T
– Explicit formula by Eckart (1952)
Error in L predic tion (% ) by the Eck art (1952) formula
4
Error (%)
0
1 10 100 1000
Dim e nsionle ss W a ve Pe riod [T/sqrt(d/g)]

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(III) Curve method

2
L o  gT / 2 C o  gT / 2

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(IV) Numerical method-Newton’s method
g  2 d 
f (L)  L  T 2 tanh  
2  L 
f ( Ln )
L n 1  L n 
f ( L n )

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Example 2.1 KEJ AWAM MARITIM
A wave with a period T=10 seconds is propagated

shoreward over a uniform sloping shelf from a depth
d=200 m to a depth d=3 m. Determine the wave
celerity (C) and wavelength (L) corresponding to
depth d=200 m and d=3 m.

Wave kinematics (1): KH4434

Water particle velocities KEJ AWAM MARITIM
gkH cosh k ( z  d )
u cos( kx   t )
2 cosh kd
gkH sinh k ( z  d )
w sin( kx   t )
2 cosh kd
http://www.coastal.
udel.edu/faculty/ra
d/linearplot.html

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Wave kinematics (2): KH4434
Water particle acceleration KEJ AWAM MARITIM
2
w H  sinh k ( z  d )
az   cos( kx   t )
t 2 sinh kd
2
u H cosh k ( z  d )
ax   sin( kx   t )
t 2 sinh kd

KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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A wave with a period T=8 seconds, in a water

depth d=15 m, and a height H=5.5 m. Find the
local horizontal and vertical velocities u and w
and acceleration ax and az at an elevation z=-5
m below the still water level when  = kx - t =
/3 .

Wave Kinematics (3): KH4434

Water particle displacements KEJ AWAM MARITIM
http://cavity.ce.utexas.edu/kinnas/wow/public_html/waveroom/Applet/
WaveKinematics/WaveKinematics.html

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H cosh k ( z 1  d )
 ( x1 , z 1 , t )   u ( x1   , z 1   ) dt   sin( kx 1   t )
2 sinh kd
H sinh k ( z 1  d )
 ( x1 , z 1 , t )   w ( x1   , z 1   ) dt  cos( kx 1   t )
2 sinh kd


2 2
   
    1
 A B
H cosh k ( z 1  d )
A
2 sinh kd
H sinh k ( z 1  d )
B 
2 sinh kd

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Deep water (d/L>0.5):
H kz 1
A  B  e
2
Shallow water (d/L<0.05):
H HT g
A  
2 kd 4 d
H z
B  (1  1 )
2 d



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KEJ AWAM MARITIM

KH4434
A wave in a depth d = 12 m, height H= 3 m and a period

T=1 0 seconds. The corresponding deepwater wave
height is =3.13 m. Find:
a) the maximum horizontal and vertical displacement of a

water particle from its mean position when z=0 and z=-d;
b) the maximum water particle displacement at an

elevation z=-7.5 m when the wave is in infinitely deep
water, and
c) for the deepwater condition of (b), shown the particle

displacements are small relative to the wave height,
when z=-Lo /2 .

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Wave dynamics (1): KH4434
Wave pressures KEJ AWAM MARITIM
 gH cosh k ( z  d )
p    gz  cos( kx   t )
2 cosh kd
   gz   g  K p (z)
K p ( z ) = pressure response factor

KH4434
Two pressure sensors are located as shown in the following

figure. For an 8-second progressive wave, the dynamic pressure
amplitudes at sensors 1 and 2 are 2.07X104 N/m2 and 2.56 X104
N/m2, respectively. What are the water depth, wave height, and
wavelength?

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KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM

Faculty of Engineering September, 2006 Hour 1b Water Waves
49
KH4434
KEJ AWAM MARITIM

Faculty of Engineering September, 2006 Hour 1b Water Waves
50
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Wave energy KEJ AWAM MARITIM
Potential Energy: 1 2
( PE ) wave   gH
16
Kinetic Energy: 1 2
( KE ) wave   gH
16
1 2
Total Energy: ( E ) wave   gH
8


Wave energy flux KEJ AWAM MARITIM
1 t T   gH 2    1  2kd 
    p D udzdt     1    Ecn
T t h  8  k  2  sinh 2kd 

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Wave Reflection: KH4434
Standing Waves KEJ AWAM MARITIM

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KH4434

KEJ AWAM MARITIM

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Types of Waves KH4434

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Description KH4434

• Wave evolution near the coast is a very complex

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Wave Description KH4434

• To examine this complex situation mathematically,

It is still very hard to do this, and nearly impossible

Linear Potential Wave Theory

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

LINEAR WAVE THEORY

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

To determine the wave length with given wave

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

All Formulas Depend on L (or d/L)

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

You know H, T and d

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

• Use of function table

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

• If we are given T (or f) to find L  to make

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Linear Wave Description KH4434

• We can also use SOLVER or GOALSEEK in excel.

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

D e p th b e lo w E le v a tio n (-z) D=d+z (m ) 6 .0 0 0 2 .0 0 0 0 .0 0 0

• Wave base is 1/2 wave length

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

• Depth of water is greater than 1/2 wavelength

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

• Water depth is less than 1/20 wavelength

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

• It is also termed as “short” or “long” wave.

– A wave is long when L/d>20

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Deep water (d/L>0.5)

Shallow Water (d/L<0.05)

• Water depth is 1/2 to 1/20 of wavelength

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

(I) Hunt’s formula (1979)

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

(II) Eckart’s (1952) approximation

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

Linear Wave Description KH4434

Error in L predic tion (% ) by the Eck art (1952) formula

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

(III) Curve method

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

(IV) Numerical method-Newton’s method

Dept. of Civil & Structural Engineering

A wave with a period T=10 seconds is propagated