Head cheese

Sliced head cheese

German Sülze

Head cheese (AmE) or brawn (BrE) is a cold cut originating in Europe. Another version
pickled with vinegar is known as souse. Head cheese is not a cheese but a meat jelly made
with flesh from the head of a calf or pig (sometimes a sheep or cow) in aspic. While the parts
used can vary, the brain, eyes and ears are often removed. The tongue, and sometimes even
the feet and heart may be included. Head cheese may be flavored with onion, black pepper,
allspice, bay leaf, salt, and vinegar. It is usually eaten cold or at room temperature as a
luncheon meat.

Historically meat jellies were made of the cleaned (all organs removed) head of the animal,
which was simmered to produce stock, a peasant food made since the Middle Ages. When
cooled, the stock congeals because of the natural gelatin found in the skull. The aspic may
need additional gelatin in order to set properly.

In Europe

Rolled head cheese

Austria
In Austria, head cheese is known as Presswurst.
Bulgaria
In Bulgaria, the meal пача (pača) is prepared from pig's heads (primarily the ears),
legs, and oftentimes tongue. The broth is heavily seasoned with garlic before cooling.
Croatia and Serbia
This cut is generally known as hladetina, and is commonly produced after the
traditional slaughter of pigs. A strongly seasoned version of this cut is called tlačenica
or švargla (the latter being a loan-word from German). The name švargl is used for a
variant where the chopped parts are stuffed inside the pig's stomach, similar to
Scottish haggis. In Serbia, the dish is also called Pihtije.
Czech Republic
In Czech Republic, the huspenina or in German Sülze is made from pig's heads and/or
legs. Other ingredients are onion, pepper, allspice, bayleaf, vinegar, salt, carrot,
parsley, root celery and eggs. Tlačenka is commonly eaten with onions and vinegar.

Re-enactment of Swedish immigrants to the United States preparing head cheese

Denmark, Norway and Sweden

Sylte or Sylta, a pork head cheese seasoned with allspice, bay leaves, and thyme, is
part of the traditional Christmas smörgåsbord, served on rugbrød or Lefse with strong
mustard and pickled beetroots. Sylte is often prepared from other pork cuts than the
head, especially the leaner versions.
Estonia
Sült, similar to the German or Croatian dish (the name is a loan as well), but usually
less seasoned and made from higher quality meat. Sometimes carrots or greens are
added. A traditional Christmas dish.
Finland
In Finland head cheese is known as syltty, tytinä or aladobi
France
Referred to as fromage de tête, tête pressée, tête fromagée (which translates as
"cheesed head") or pâté de tête.
Saurer Presssack

Germany
In Germany head cheese is known as Sülze, Schwartenmagen, or Presskopf. In
Bavaria Presssack comes in three varieties (deep red, pinkish, and grey) in the form of
a large (15 cm diameter) sausage. Sülze can have a tangy flavour due to the addition of
pickles or vinegar. It usually takes the form of a rectangular loaf, which is then sliced
into portions. There is a white coloured variety and two different red ones, using
blood, one made with beef tongue (as in Zungenwurst) and aspic, the other without. In
Franconia Saurer Presssack is served in a salad with a vinaigrette and vegetables.

German "Schwartenmagen" in a tin as it is sold as a type of "Hausmacher Wurst"

There are early references to Sulcze in documents of the Counts of Katzenelnbogen
dating from 1410 and 1430.[1].
Hungary
A variant of head cheese is disznósajt or disznófősajt ("pig cheese" or "pig head
cheese"), made of mixed meat slices (especially from the head of the pig[2]), spices,
paprika, and pieces of bacon cooked in spicy stock. The chopped meat is stuffed inside
the pig's stomach, similar to Scottish haggis. Usually it is smoked like the sausages or
the ham.
Iceland
Sviðasulta is a form of head cheese, made from svið, singed lamb's head, sometimes
cured in lactic acid.
Italy
In Genoa a similar cold cut goes by the name of testa in cassetta, literally "head in a
box", but it is possible to find it throughout the entire central and northern Italy, where
it is called coppa di testa, or simply coppa, or – in some northern regions – formaggio
di testa (literally, "head cheese"). In central Italy (Lazio, Umbria), it is common to put
orange peel pieces in it, or to serve it in a salad together with oranges and black olives.
Lithuania
 Košeliena (deriving from "košė", that means "pulp", "squash") or 'Šaltiena' (deriving
from "šalta", that means "cold", and refers to way of serving the dish), usually made
from pig's feet, sometimes part of head is added.

Camembert, head cheese, and terrine de campagne (l-r) in a fine dining setting

Netherlands and Belgium

Headcheese is known under several regional names and variations. Brabant : In
Brabantic it is called zult and is made with blood. Pig's foot provides the gelatin and a
little vinegar is added to the head cheese.Limburg : In Limburgisch it is called
hoofdkaas, meaning head cheese, and is eaten on bread or with Limburgisch sausage
as a starter. There's a red, sweet variety and a slightly Sour, grey variety. The red one
can be compared to Brabantic zult. Sülze and Presskopf are also found in Limburg
though the Sülze is less sour whereas the Presskopf often contains black pepper and is
eaten on wholewheat bread. In Belgium, head cheese is also called kop or kopvlees,
which translates as meat from the head.
Poland
In Poland, head cheese is referred to as salceson, a name possibly derived from
saucisson, the French word for a type of sausage. There are several varieties of
salceson which depend on the ingredients: Black Salceson which contains blood,
White Salceson made with a mixture of seasoned meats without blood, and Ozorkowy
(Tongue) Salceson where the major meat component is tongue.
Romania
There are two versions of it: The first is called "tobă" (same word as for "drum"),
which looks like huge sausage, 4 inch diameter. The other form is "piftie" in which the
contents are poured into a bowl which is then refrigerated. Not necessarily made of
head meat, but also from different kinds of meat, boiled with garlic and bayleaves.
Russia and Ukraine
In Russia and Ukraine head cheese is a popular food. Head cheese is served on festive
occasions such as Christmas. Head cheese is also popular in the Jewish community. It
is more popularly called saltisón ("салтисон").
Slovakia
A special variety of head cheese, called tlačenka (literally "pressed one"), is very
popular in Slovakia. It is made of pork stomach stuffed with offal and leftover parts of
pig's heads and legs. It is seasoned with garlic, paprika, black pepper, and other
ingredients and usually smoked. It is traditionally served with sliced onion, vinegar,
and bread.
Huspenina (also called studeno literally meaning cold one) is similar to a certain
extent, but made with less meat and more gelatine. It is more similar to aspic, pork
jelly, or hladetina.
Spain
This cold cut is known as cabeza de jabali, literally "boar's head".
Sweden
 Pressylta, from a recipe in "Swedish Food", published 1947 by Esselte, Gothenburg.
United Kingdom
In England and Wales, head sausage is referred to as brawn or (in Yorkshire and
Norfolk) pork cheese. In Scotland, it is known as potted heid (potted head of a cow,
pig or sheep); the similar potted haugh/hough is made from the shin of the animal.

In other countries
Various versions exist around the world:

Asia

In certain parts of China, such as Tianjin, 'yaorou' (肴肉) is eaten. It is made by

boning and pickling pig trotters with brine and alum. The meat is then rolled and
pressed and eaten cold. [3] In Northeastern China, a jellied pork skin dish is often made
and served with a spicy soy sauce and vinegar mixture with crushed garlic and red
chili powder. [4]
Korea
In Korean cuisine, a similar dish is referred to as pyeonyuk (편육) made by pressing
meat, usually from the head of the pig. It is eaten as anju (dishes associated with
alcoholic beverages) or used for janchi (잔치, literally feast or banquet).
Vietnam
In Vietnam around Tết, giò thủ is made in celebration for the New Year. It is a
traditional snack made of fresh bacon, pig’s ears, garlic, scallions, onions, black
fungus, fish sauce and cracked black pepper. Traditionally, giò thủ (pork head meat
pie) is wrapped in banana leaves and compressed in a wooden mold until the gelatin in
the pig’s ears causes it to stick together.

The Caribbean

Souse is pickled pork parts.[5] The cooked meat is cut into bite sized pieces and soaked in a
brine made of water, lime juice and cucumbers. It is usually eaten on Saturday mornings
especially in St. Vincent and Barbados. Souse is also popularly served with pudding.

Latin America

Latin America
Head cheese is very popular and is usually referred to as Queso de Cabeza,
specifically Queso de Puerco in Mexico. In Peru, Ecuador and Costa Rica, it is also
known as Queso de Chancho. It is known as Queso de Cerdo in Uruguay.
Brazil
In Brazil, head cheese is very popular among the gaucho population and is commonly
known as Queijo de Porco (Pig Cheese). In the German colonized cities, such as
Pomerode and Blumenau, it follows the German recipe and is known as Sülze.

Middle East

Turkey
 Kelle Söğüş is a variation of head cheese made from boiled head of spring lamb,
usually served with black pepper and cumin. A thick soup made of the same with
addition of vinegar and garlic is also quite popular as a late midnight dish in order to
avoid hangovers.
Israel
It is sold refrigerated in convenience stores and called "regel krushah" [6]. European
Jews, in Yiddish, called it "petchah" or "pootschah", with pronunciation depending on
the country of origin of the Yiddish-speaker. There are many variants of the spelling.
The origin of this word is apparently the Bulgarian word пача (pača, pronounced
"pacha"); see the entry for Bulgaria above. Typically a calf's foot is used, but there
may also be calf's tongue in a petchah. Often, hard-boiled egg halves are included in
Israeli head cheeses. [7][8] Jewish versions are necessarily made without pork for
religious reasons.

See also
 Blood tongue

Notes and references

1. ^ http://www.graf-von-katzenelnbogen.de/ 600 Years of Bratwurst, Head Cheese and
the First Riesling of the World in Katzenelnbogen
2. ^ June Meyers Authentic Hungarian Heirloon Recipes Cookbook
3. ^ http://eat.sina.com.cn/art/2006-01-25/113917812.shtml 记忆里的镇江肴肉(图)
4. ^ http://www.abc999.net/product.asp?id=836
5. ^ Sinful alterations ruin boxed chocolates [Ontario Edition] March 27, 2002 page
D.04 Toronto Star
6. ^ an Italian-language recipe for Regel Krushah
7. ^ http://www.cyber-kitchen.com/rfcj/DELI/PetchaPtcha_1_Calves_Foot_Jelly_-
_meat.html
8. ^ http://fooddownunder.com/cgi-bin/recipe.cgi?r=69506