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Cookbook Vol 1.
First Release: June 1st 1985
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Table Of Contents:
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First off, I guess I must allot for those of you who don't know what I mean
when I say Anarchy. (ALWAYS capitalize that word...don't forget!) Well, maybe
I should start off with a definition..
Ya...right outta Webster's own, there. Well, I HOPE that you got some
idea as to what I'm talking about from that. If not, toss this out...it
isn't for you. Done? Okay. Now that only the REAL people of the world are
here, we may commence the study of the perfection of this art, and examine
some of the newer developments and state-of-the-art achievements in this
religious pastime.
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__
As much as people would like to deny it, prank calls, yes, prank calls
are a form of what could be known as "pre-Anarchy". It can even be found in
The Specter's infamous satire of the loser, "Anarchy for the PreAdolescent",
under "Major Devilment for the American Youngster." Face it, EVERYBODY
as made prank calls once in a while for entertainment, and we still do, yet
now it's more for profit than for amusement. Even the universally-
despised jokes, phrases, and clauses told to preteens by their visiting
grandparents such as, "Excuse me, but is your refrigerator running?" and,
"Is there a John in the house?" are heard from time to time spewing forth
from the mouths of giggling infants into the phone receiver into your hateful
ear. It's unavoidable. Yet they do successfully annoy you, therefore, in
essence, completing SOME form of mild anarchy. Face it, like it or not,
these little jerks are the future freaks and Anarchists of America...
A. Spray Paint - Fun stuff! Sure, why not, for no reason at all, just
go out and paint "@#$% You!" all over everything in
sight, or maybe the infamous Anarchy sign, an encircled
"A" everywhere? Why not, YOU won't have to clean up
that mess? Hey! Why not paint "Can't Drive 55" signs
all up and down Interstate 75 like on Sammy Hagar's
album? A warning, though. Park OFF of the InterState,
like in a parking lot on a nearby road. That way, when
the pigs see you, you've got plenty of time to scramble
to the car and get away. Also, paint can be "picked up"
quite easily from any drug store or hardware store, or,
if you're not "into shoplifting," it's relatively cheap.
A movie's about $4.50, a can of paint's $1.75 or so, I
don't know, haven't BOUGHT any in quite some time.. But
in any case, it's cheap entertainment. Not even a new
flick can get your heart racing like a cop chase can.
B. Destruction - Where are those bricks I threw back here?!? Hmm, maybe
one or two would look good in Ms. Johnson's living room?
Sure, the colors match beautifully! But, aw shucks, the
door's shut. No need to bother the sweet old bitch, we
will just have to put them there ourselves...but how? A
window -- perfect. Just toss 'em in there! I'm sure
she'd like to thank you for your good day, but the Good
Book says that we shouldn't do something for the thanks
that we receive, but just out of the goodness of our
heart...so, get out of there before she sees you and
tries to thank you personally it's the "good thing".
Financial gain is the goal, social disruption is the route. No, I'm
not talking about becoming a "hit-man" for the mob or anything, just some
clean fun, and a little profit on the side. Sure, you could use step "C"
above for blackmail and information hostage purposes, but let's be a little
inventive, that's been being done for YEARS..
No, you can't say that making people pay "protection money" is
inventive. G'zus, it's on the "A-Team" every week, for chrissakes! Let's
think.. Watch we make money by calling with MCI, Metro, and Sprint, but,
that's not outright collection of payment, that's...well, that's more
like SAVING money, like clipping coupons in the newspaper, if you
will...you get what you want for a lower price than usual. We need money,
and we need it NOW! Maybe if you're.. "into" this stuff..<ahem>..you could
possibly CREATE an imaginary employee at some company deep within the
bowels of the conglomerate computer? Maybe send his paychecks to a
mysterious P.O. Box? Sure, why the hell not? Hey, this P.O. Box stuff
sounds good. I wonder...
Got it all? Now, just flip on a local station, or MTV, or whatever, and,
before you can say "I Love Ma Bell," you'll run across 9 or 10 million ads for
stuff like "Ronco 'In the Shell' Egg Scramblers" and "ACME Nosehair Clippers"
and the like..write down the phone number for the company that makes whatever
product you could want, and give them your name, (off of the card, stupid!),
and your card number..and presto! In 4 to 6 weeks, you've got your own brand
new set of Ronco Party Circumcisers..free of charge. (YOU try to say "I Love
Ma Bell"...*I* can't!) Another good idea is to cruse over to the 7-11 and,once
you've gotten your Slurpee, buy a lot of mail-order magazines, (ie. Ninja
Magazines, etc.) They've got a lot of card order forms and phone numbers..
But, don't forget! NEVER SEND THE GOODS TO YOUR HOME! That's the PERFECT
loser thing to do.. Always find a "drop point," like a vacant house which is
for sale, or a P.O. Box. You cannot be traced back through either method...
Have fun...
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Just what you've been waiting for, I knew it. Well, there are SO
many different forms of Anarchial aggression that it would be impossible to
even TRY to list them all. New and inventive methods of destruction are being
conjured up every day, so I'll just try to give a brief overview. First off,
I'd like to state that you don't HAVE to be a stoner or a headbanger to be an
Anarchist, you don't even have to drink alcohol. You can be perfectly NORMAL
and...well, I guess if you didn't do any of that you wouldn't be normal,
would you? Anyhow, you can be perfectly NORM..er..ODD..and still be an
Anarchist at heart you don't have to be into blatant destruction, you don't
even have to like heavy metal music...but it helps. Who knows, maybe you
just like to replace normal light bulbs with gasoline-filled ones? Maybe
you just, for some reason, enjoy running down little kiddies.. YOU can't help
it. So, if you can't help it, pursue it. Become the best hit-and-run
artist on your block! Maybe even in the whole county! Modify your
vehicle to your interests and mount a kangaroo bar on the front of your
Ford Bronco or S-15, so that the people you run over slide more easily
under your car...maybe even put a window in the floor so you can see
who you just helplessly maimed? Ms. Johnson? Oh- hello...did you enjoy
the bricks? You did? That's good. If they convulse, you did it right.
Next target...the dog! Make your own lynch plan for the dog, I
haven't perfected one as of yet, they are too big and noisy.. (I don't
consider chihuahuas and the like to be dogs..they are just sub-dogs) You can
treat sub-dogs as cats, though, if you want the cat to have some company...
Hey, why not try the bird? Easily captured, easily cemented! It really
is quite funny watching a bird try and fly with it's feet cemented.. don't
worry, they sink just as well as anything... Most of all, though, have fun
at it..experiment!
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Well here it is, the path to true Anarchy... Are you worthy of the title
of a true Anarchist? We will soon see. The Black arts are Theft,
Deception, Destruction and all sub-forms of Anarchy. To master the
techniques involved takes time and patience but most of all, it has to be in
your blood! You can always tell the difference between a True Anarchist and
a dabbler... Pulling the fire alarm at school doesn't cut it (Although
that can be fun during a slow day)... Anyone can do that, BUT, can you do
it without getting caught? Well,that is the tough part. Even at an early
age one can see the signs of Anarchy emerge... if a kid watches Mister
Rogers all day, forget it but if he builds crude weapons out of household
items and delights in torturing the family pet, his sister etc.. then he
has potential.
Anarchy usually starts off small and grows over a long period of time...
at first, primitive forms of Anarchy such as crank calls, nicky nine doors
and petty theft will begin the process. At this point, frequent
failure or getting caught may put a stop to the increasing chaotic
tendencies within the person in question. If the little bastard is
successful in his endeavors, however, he will move on to bigger and better
things. The real fun stuff starts in high-school... there are endless
possibilities for amusement at the expense of others... these will be
documented later. One thing to remember however is that there are many
obstacles which stand in your path such as COPS, locks, alarms and of
course, the most important thing to watch out for is carelessness on your
part. It is because of carelessness that many good hellraisers have met their
fate. Well, enough bull@#$%, let's get started!
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Theft is one of the most common forms of Anarchy, almost everyone does
it at one point in their lives... Even the Pope probably stole dime-store
candies when he was a kid... Not everyone, however, will perform this
maneuver to the same extent or with the same rate of success. The
CARELESS ones get eliminated by the forces of good. Regardless of the
motive, the objective is always the same... To acquire at no cost and with
minimal effort, items which are not originally or rightfully yours... There
are two sub-classes of theft. These are single party theft and multiple
party theft (with accomplice). Regardless of the type of theft, there
are three important elements to consider: Planning, Execution, and
ESCAPE. The latter is probably the hardest part and must be planned
carefully. A plan is always required for a successful theft and should
offer a high probability of success with as little risk as possible.
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Sometimes, the easiest things to take are items which are kept right in
front of the cashier... all it takes is for him to turn his back for one
second and before you know it... FREE JUNK FOOD! Be alert, if there are other
people present, do not go directly to the desired item. Browse a little, but
take the first reasonably safe opportunity to make your way over to it.
Pocket the item quickly without looking at it or fumbling with it. DO NOT
rush out of the area immediately if you don't have to, be casual and maybe
even make a purchase. If you are confronted however, GET THE $#@! OUT Take
the quickest one of your escape routes that you can, if you are perused
then you must leave a difficult trail to follow. Dodge on and out of
buildings or cars, backtrack, hop fences or do what ever you have to do to
lose them. If possible, motorized transport is a good idea... (cover the
license plate) If not, then work with what you have, create obstacles as you
go, such as throwing objects at your pursuers or knocking things down in your
wake.
Sometimes, a good cop chase can really give you a good feeling... It sure
satisfies the Rambo in me! If you are forced to deviate from your plan due
to unexpected interference, follow your instincts... but remember that a
true Anarchist doesn't get caught at the scene! If it seems inevitable that
you will be caught, stash the goods somewhere safe until you can collect it.
After you have bin caught then it's all over...unless, you lie like a
bitch or your captor turns out to be a friend of the family. If you
escape, then you have successfully completed your mission. Hopefully you
will have the foresight not to hit a store in your neighborhood or one that
you go to regularly. Try not to hit the same place every time... that's
dangerous!
For an added challenge, you may want to try to swipe items stored
behind the cashier's counter. There are ways to do this such as the classic
"Can I use your phone? I'm stranded and need to call home" Heh, if they let
you then your only problem is how to distract their attention. For this
reason, it is often easier to execute a successful theft if you have an
accomplice...
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In a multiple party theft, the basics are the same but certain
adjustments must be made to your plan. First you must decide who will do
what... One person as to distract the attention of onlookers while the
other performs the actual crime. You should have included a signal in your
plan so that the you can discretely inform your buddy that you have the
goods and it's time to leave. A third person may have been posted as a
look-out and if so, must also be kept aware of what's going' on.
One of the important tricks is to make it look like you don't know any
of your accomplishes... don't walk in together or leave together, unless you
get burned. If you are confronted, then it is not always necessary for all
the members of your team to flee if you have successfully convinced the teller
you are not together.
The guy with the goods has to split BUT while the Cashier is chasing
him, or calling the cops, what better opportunity will the other two have to
fill their pockets? If it becomes necessary for all parties to run, at least
you now have an added benefit due to the fact that if you split up, it's
harder to catch all of you. It is an unwritten rule that a guy who gets
caught can't squeal on the others if there is a chance they can get away with
it. You should have a specified rendezvous point and time if you split up so
all the parties (minus those who were bagged) can meet and decide on
appropriate actions to take to insure no further problems will arise.
After a few hits with the same people, you should have a kick-ass team
and will be able to tackle anything! One thing though, always watch your back
cause as Stalin said "You can't trust anyone, not even yourself."
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Well, if your not into stealing' from convenience stores, there are
many available sources of "low-cost" items, such as cars, houses, purses &
wallets and my personal favorite... school lockers!
Cars are easy... just get a 1.5 ft. long piece of flexible but sturdy
wire (coathanger will do) and bend a loop at the end to fit over the lock
button. Slide the wire through the gap between the window and the middle
section of the car (not the top of the window). Now loop the end around the
lock button and pull. For newer cars that do not have the lockbutton but
have the switch by the lever on the inside door panel, you need more
equipment. You will need a flashlight, a mirror and a coathanger.
Before you begin, look through the opposite window at the door your
gonna open and memorize where everything is positioned. Now, tape the mirror
to the outside of that window with the reflective surface facing into the
car. If you have a friend helping you, you don't need the mirror as your
friend can stand on the opposite side of the car and see through that window
where you have to move. Now slip the coathanger in as above and use the
window to bend it as you insert it so it touches the inside of the door...
using the mirror or your friend to guide your movements, unlock the door
and there you go!
Motorcycles are a cinch to swipe. All you need are a pair of vice-grips,
a screwdriver and a dime. Jam the screwdriver into the ignition, clamp the
vice-grips to the shaft of the screwdriver and twist... -=SNAP!=- Now just
press the start button and away you go! When you've had your fun and ya wanna
ditch the bike, drop the dime into the ignition keyhole and give it a
quarter turn to turn off the engine.
Now, the most risky but often most profitable source is a house. Before
you even approach the house, phone to make sure they're not in. If you don't
have their number or they are a bunch of rug-pilots who don't have a phone,
ring the doorbell... once you have established the fact that they are not
home, you can decide on your method of entry.
To break into a house, Your two sources of entry are doors and
windows. Before I start describing methods to bypass locks and bolts,
remember that if you think there is a security system on the house FORGET IT
and move on... why risk it? Anyway, there are many types of door locks and
for most you will need a lock pick set which will be dealt with in a
separate chapter. If you have a lot of time and are in a deserted area, you
can use various power tools to destroy the door itself. Windows are the
harder to reach but more simply bypassed entry routes. There is either a
deadbolt or a simple twist/pull lock for both, you just blow a hole in the
window just above the lock (with a bee-bee gun) or bar and use wire or a
thin screwdriver to knock the bar out or release the lock.
Apartment buildings are also a good target... just go into the front
doors and press every intercom button on the panel. Some deluded idiot will
let you in. If not, wait `till a resident comes in and pretend to be
fumbling for the door key... he will of course, open the door for you...
Heh. Once you get in, make sure no one is home... then grab a pillow case or
a garbage bag and take everything that is even remotely valuable! Once you
have done that, cut the phone line and GET THE @#$%^ OUT!!! Mission
Accomplished....
Lockers!
The easiest way to get money or goods for nothing. One way is to write
down the serial # and the combination of the lock your using this year and
then next year, find it and voila! In the mean time, you have to find
alternate methods to keep you busy for a whole year, but look... there are
hundreds of lockers! With little peckers you can stand behind them and
simply watch them enter the combination.
Well, now you know. Most of the schools supply spin combo locks that
are hard to pick so if all else fails, use those heavy duty metal shears to
cut through the shank. Once your in, you are on your own... Have fun!
The last type of theft I will discuss is the art of picking pockets.
This method is becoming more and more difficult with the advent of self-
defense lessons... yes!... even little Grandma Johnson could be a black belt.
Basically all you have to do is either run by the victim and snatch it, or
wait `till they put it down somewhere where you can whisk it away. Once you
have the purse or wallet, there are many things you can do... Money! I'm sure
you can all find a use for that... Credit Cards! Now we're talking! You can
go crazy ordering and carding everything you desire (not to your house)...
You may find a spare key in there to, if so, look at the I.D. in the
wallet to find out their address and away you go! Geez, what a week for
the poor sucker eh! First his wallet now his house and car!!! Heh, always be
thorough...
This form of Anarchy allows for more creativity than most. You can
stick to doing mild damage with your hands or you can obtain a wide
variety of weapons for more severe effects. It is usually easier to make your
own weapons and there are a large number of chapters dealing with the
production of explosives and simple weapons. For a successful strike on your
target area, you will need the following:
Mini-Chucks:
These little babies are easy to make and are easily concealable. All
you need are a pair of those metal nut-crackers and a 2 foot length of
chain. First, take the nut crackers and cut through the hinge with metal-
shears, being sure to leave the rivets intact. Now open up the last link at
each end of the chain and close them around the rivet shaft on the metal
bars. HEY! Look what you've done... little nun-chakaus.
Cut a one inch slit in the tennis ball and stuff it full of wooden
match-heads. (A little gunpowder adds to the effect) Once the ball is firmly
packed, it will detonate on contact with a solid surface producing large
amounts of flame and flaming projectiles.
Take ordinary darts and wrap an oil soaked strip of rag around the
shaft. Then just light and throw. For an exploding dart, tie a cherry bomb
to the shaft using a twist tie and light the fuse.
Molocov Cocktail:
Fill a Pepsi bottle half way to the top with gasoline, insert a rag,
light and throw... instant hell fire!
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Personalized Lawns:
Sure! Why not leave your initials on the guys lawn using gasoline or
weed-killer? Better yet, if your artistic, a graphic picture of him
pumping the local stray dog... heh, long-lasting damage!
Stick the end of the garden hose through the mail slot in his door,
then crank the faucet and run like a *&^%er! If you do this at 3am, his house
will be floating down the street before he even wakes up.
Address Switching:
Use your trusty screwdriver to switch address numbers and steal mailboxes
throughout the neighborhood. Heh, if you find the right numbers, you can
make three houses in a row with the same address, the fun part is when you
order a party-size pizza to that address. (If you are really on the ball you
can rip off the delivery car while Guido is walking from door to door).
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Once you have all your equipment, your ready to go. Easy targets are
mail boxes, bird feeders, X-mas lights (when in season) and greenhouses. The
weapon you will use most is the bat or steel bar you brought along in your
trusty Anarchist's bag. Remember to spray paint the traditional encircled "A"
where ever you go to let the world know Anarchy is alive an' well.
Now you have to use some direct methods to evade capture. Start off
mild by simply running. If they persist, create obstacles as you go by
knocking things down in your wake, jumping' fences, cars, etc.. If that
fails, try a few smoke bombs lobbed over your shoulder to block their
view... NO! Hmmmm well it's time to get serious because you smoke too much
to stay ahead for long. Sooo, use the explosives... that should do it but
if not, just turn around, whip out the projectiles or the weapon of your
choice an' just beat the living' &^%$# out of `em. Now you can go home, being
sure to spray paint an encircled "A" on Mr. Johnson's bleeding forehead...
(heh, I doubt he'll chase you next time).
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Well, anyone who has done anything similar to the acts described
above must also have found it necessary to lie once in a while. Remember that
to get away with lying, you must make the lie seem like reality. If you
convince yourself that it is true then others are more likely to believe
you. It's a good idea to make sure all the people involved in the caper have
the exact same story.
Always stick to your story and never stray from it. Try to have
supporting evidence on your side too, go for realism! Unfortunately, no book
is gonna turn a lousy liar into a good one... it has to be in your blood, it
does, honest!
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Aside from the themes outlined above, there are many other forms
of Anarchial behavior. Some people are specialists in one area like
Pyromaniacs or assasins. Others tend to be less proficient in a wider range
of areas. For those of you who are specialists, SPEAK UP! There are many
people who are hungry for material which you could provide from your
experience. Those of you who don't even bother and are just reading this
book for entertainment... "*&^% OFF!" I don't have time for pussies... I
would suggest that you find out what your specific interests are and pursue
them. Whatever your topic is, there is a book on it somewhere... believe me!
If you are not sure where your skills lie, then start small until you find
them. I know your all probably saying "C'mon, get on with it @$$hole!" So,
here we go...
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Introduction:
Assuming that you have read the first bit in this series and that you are
a true Anarchist, I'm sure you will find this chapter both interesting
and useful. We have compiled some of the easiest to make but most
destructive devices in the Anarchist's arsenal of home-made weapons and
explosives. A true Anarchist has a remarkable ability to overcome any
obstacle using only the materials at his disposal. I am not saying that you
need to know 100 different ways to kill a man with a stapler, just that you
should be able to get by using whatever you have. This chapter shows you
a few ways to increase your destructive power using simple household
items. Remember that there is a certain element of risk involved in
handling some of the devices which you will see, so please use caution.
Neither myself nor anyone associated with the creation of this book
will take any responsibility for damage or injury sustained as a result of
attempting any of the procedures depicted.
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This device causes basically the same damage as the "basic mine", but it
is more convenient if the intended victim happens to miss stepping on
it.
Method:
First, take the lid of your container and make a small hole in it.
This should be big enough to hold the axle of the motor snugly. You need to
make a small cardboard disk or, if you can find one, a small plastic gear-
like piece meant to fit on an electric motor. You have to cover this small
disk ( about 1 cm. wide ) with the brimstone from the matchbooks.
Fill the container with match-heads, push the motor's axle through the
lid and push the disk onto the axle from the other side. Now put on the lid
and tape the whole thing up, plus the motor so it doesn't wobble around. Hook
your wire up to the terminals on the motor and then to a switch or a
battery or whatever. Conceal the mother and stand back. You will hear a
high pitched screech of the motor grinding and then BOOM! Works well.
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Time Bomb
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This device isn't too hard to make, but it does have a limitation.
It doesn't work on the principle that the time you set it to is when it goes
off, it's more of a mechanical thing....just read.
Materials:
Method:
1) Make the "motor mine" explained above.
2) Instead of both leads going straight to the battery,
you will have a clock in between, with the faceplate
taken off.
3) Tie the positive and negative leads to the clock hands
and set them to an appropriate distance apart.
4) When the hands meet, this will complete the circuit
which will start the motor. The Friction disk will spin
and rub against the matchheads and KABOOM!!
Note: To increase the power of this device, gun powder may be added to
The match-heads to fill the container.
Napalm Bomb
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Materials:
---------- Gasoline Dishsoap (Joy is good)
A Nail Ammonia Pellets
A Drill Flexible Wire
A Coke can
Procedure:
----------
WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE UNTIL YOU ARE
SAFE OR YOUR WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW! Wait until you are ready
to set it off to pull the string... It should look like this:
Ammonia Pellet
/
<====[*]====() <- Nail
| |
| | <- Coke Can
| |
|===========|
|===========|
|===========| <- Mixture
|===========|
|===========|
~-----------~
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Das Crackkerwork!
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Das Crackkerwork: A neat way to scare the $#!^ out of someone and to
---------------- cause moderate amounts of damage.
o Tape
o A kick-ass nature
First, take the engine, it will have one hollow end and the other
end is filled with the rocket fuel (it resembles clay). Take a
screwdriver or something hard and start grinding up the substance from the
inside.
Don't grind up the thing totally though. Now put the fire
cracker inside the engine, with the fuse sticking out of the convenient hole.
The hole is usually used for solar flares.
Now tape up the son of a bitch so that it's black an' mean looking.
Finally, light it and throw it, the fire cracker will go off (but
won't damage the engine), then the engine will ignite and go whipping
around. It makes a lot of ruckus and the exhaust can cause damage.
Diagram:
----------
Fuse
/
_
/
|
|~~|
|__| <- Fire-cracker inside engine body
| | and fuse through little hole in
| | rocket substance.
|__|
Smoke Bomb
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Materials Diagram
----------- ---------
Procedure:
----------
1) Pour a 1/2 inch layer of motor oil into the coffee can.
2) Pour in some gun powder ( The more, the merrier )
3) Cut a 6" diameter circle of metal screening and poke a
small hole in the center of it.
4) Place the screen on top of the can and secure it.
5) Insert a dry fuse or oiled rag through the screen so
that it reaches the bottom of the can.
6) Light the fuse.
This device will produce extremely large amounts of smoke and flame.
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__
One reason for which many well made bombs fail is the lack of a
good fuse. To make a dry fuse, you will need the following:
Method:
---------
1) Use the paint brush to apply a thin film of gasoline on a
sheet of tissue paper.
2) Let dry
3) Sprinkle a thin line of gunpowder onto the paper
4) Roll the paper up tightly from one end
5) Apply a few more layers by repeating steps 1&2 and rolling
each new layer around the existing fuse.
6) Let the whole thing sit for a couple of hours
7) Apply a final coating of gasoline with the paintbrush
8) After it is completely dry, it will work beautifully
Note:
------- Experiments are currently being done in an attempt to design
a fuse which will burn under water.
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__
1) A Tennis Ball
2) A Knife
3) Several boxes of wooden matches (not safety matches)
4) Hockey Tape
5) Gunpowder
6) A Sparkler
7) Flint
Method:
-------
These babies are easy to make, light weight, concealable and do plenty
of damage for their size....in general, a kick-ass weapon. You can make dozens
of them for hours of enjoyment.
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The Boom-Box
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__
Materials:
----------
Procedure:
----------
Diagram:
--------
\
/ \ <- lid
string -> / \
____/_____\.
| / |
| o/____ |
mouse trap -> | ======= | <- metal box
with C-4 ~----------~
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Exploding Pen
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__
Materials:
----------
Procedure:
----------
1) Unscrew pen and remove all parts except for the button at
the top of the pen
2) Stick the match inside the pen where the ink fill was
3) Roll the sand paper around the match with the rough side
facing in so it touches the match head
4) Put the remaining match heads in, be sure they are inside
the sand paper
5) Put a wax stopper in the other end of the pen where the ball
point came out
6) Fill the front part of the pen with gunpowder and make sure
that the wax prevents it from spilling out
This bit is for amusement only. We suggest that you do not try this out
at home.
Materials:
----------
1 cat - large
1 sparkler or 1 ft. of waterproof fuse
1 acetylene/oxygen torch
1 book of matches
Procedure:
----------
Squeeze all air and $#!^ out of cat, being careful not to kill same.
Insert torch nozzle into cat's ass.
Turn on a 50/50 mixture of the gasses, inflating the cat to approximately
1/3 larger than normal.
Insert either sparkler or fuse into cat's ass being careful to minimize
gas release (some recommend stapling the orifice shut after insertion
of fuse) very messy!
Deployment:
-----------
Place cat in a place of demonstration, and light fuse with matches.
Retire quickly to a safe place, (entrails will be a-flying soon)
Cautions:
---------
Recent experiments with larger animals have shown a 10 minute
railroad flare to be of substantially greater sealing capacity than the fuse
or sparkler method. Greater gas retention and thus a greater explosion are
possible in this manner.
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Astrolite Mixtures
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__
Astrolite:
----------
Astrolite G
-----------
Procedure:
----------
Astrolite A/A-1-5
-----------------
Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and then
mix with the hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer.
Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800 mps.
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Sodium Chlorate:
----------------
SC Rocket Fuel
--------------
Mix 50% sodium chlorate
35% rubber cement
10% epoxy resin hardener
5% sulfur
You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you
are using.
J.L. Hudsons! Bring a good, strong magnet with you, and head for
the clothing section... Look at the clothes on the rack, look at the tag...
___________________
| |
|XXX X XXX|
|:::::::::::::::::::|
|___________________|
Restrooms: Take the toilet paper and pull off a section about 4 feet
in length. Stick it in the toilet the flush it down.. If you still have
your screwdriver, turn the water inlet valve to full - this is that valve
on a normal toilet...
-*==0
|
|
-------
Any Store! Some stores have a security system that employs the use
of little plastic buttons, slips, or disks that are fastened to articles
of clothing. Inside these articles are a piece of copperish-looking foil
coated with some green plastic marked, "Inventory Control - Property of the
Store." (In some cases, this piece of plastic is placed on a string all by
itself..)
Take this piece of plastic and do any of the following - drop it into
a bag or the pocket of another piece of clothing, (they won't be able to find
it but it will trigger the alarm all the time!).. Find a little kid standing
all by himself, and tell him it's a special magic card, and to keep it!
(Once he leaves, the alarm will go off, and his parents will get
busted..) Or, of course, you can drop it into the bag of another customer,
that's always fun..
Any Large Department Store: Sometimes there are phones laying around
in unsupervised check-out booths, (like in hudson's or something), pick up
the phone, and dial a three digit number - this usually connects you with
another part of the store - after some real pranking around the whole store,
you might want to walk around and see what you've done; (usually, there will
be a small store directory taped into the handset, it always comes in handy.)
Elevators: Remember when your parents got pissed when you messed with
the buttons on an elevator? Well, forget that - find the switch,
usually a pushtype, and turn it off when you are at a floor. Most people
don't know how the hell to work it, and will get quite pissed...
Also, push and stick one of the buttons down, (lets say the highest
floor so it is in a non-traffic area), with some gum or tape or a nail; the
elevator will always seek that floor when it's not being called by other
floors - over time, it becomes slower and slower...
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__
Simple mine
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__
Patience.
First, take the lid of the canister or can, etc. and cut a square hole
in the lid the width of the striking strip on a book of matches (about 5mm).
Next, cut 4 striker strips off the matchbooks. With these you must make a
"box". You might want to leave an extra millimeter of cardboard on the edge
of the strips, and bend them so you can glue the edges of each strip
together. Because it's hard to glue just edges together.
Form the box around a pencil or something, so you can have support
when gluing it. Make sure the whole inside of the box is the brimstone side
of the strips. What it will look like when it's made is a 3cm long hollow
box, with the ends open. You then push this box halfway through the lid with
the hole in it. Now cut the joint edges of the box only on the top side of
the lid, so you can fold these sides down to the lid, to hold it better. It
now will look like a lid, will a cross of cardboard on the top side, and on
the underside, the rest of the box is sticking out. Next cut your match
heads off and fill the canister.
String Cannon
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__
Materials: Container.
Matchbooks.
String.
Violent nature.
Ok, make a basic mine (you MUST have the mine to do this). But don't put
in the match heads yet. Pierce a hole in the bottom of the canister (big
enough for strong string to fit through). Now, once you have made the 2 or
3 match button (from the first mine explained) you will be pulling it from
the bottom rather than stepping on the top.
Tie the string to the matches in the brimstone box and then bring
the string through the bottom of the canister, fill the canister with match
heads, and put on the lid. Once again, the more you tape, THE BETTER. You want
to hold this explosion as much as possible, so when it goes off it's more
powerful. Put a hole (for the string) in the blocked end of the piping. You
might find it hard to the string through, but try and get it through a
small a hole as possible. You don't want anything coming out the back!
A good idea is to, insert the string through the pipe, THEN do the
rest explained above. And drop the mine CAREFULLY down to the bottom of the
pipe. Now walk around like you have a shotgun and whenever you want to blow
something away, just point and pull the string. A spray of match heads,
fire, plastic bits etc. will fly out, pretty impressive I guess.
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__
Mortar
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__
Materials: 4 or 5 cans.
Basically, this device is quite easily made, you just need some good
tools to do it properly. First, take one of the cans, and cut the entire top
of of it (this might be hard with pop cans, since they have a high edge which
gets in the way of using a can opener). Then, on the bottom of the can, cut
about 3/4 of it out, so you have a semi-circle of tin missing on the bottom,
like in this diagram:
______
/}*****\
/ }******\ * = amount of tin left on bottom
[ }*******] of can.
[ }*******]
\ }******/
\}*****/
~~~~~
Do exactly the same thing to all the rest of the cans as explained
above (NOT the last one though), making sure that the open part in the bottom
of each can alternates with the one below it. In other words, if you looked
down the barrel of the thing, you'd see a semi-circle missing on the left,
then the right (directly opposite) then the left etc. It must look this way.
When you get to your last can, leave the bottom on and still cut the
whole top off. Now you must tape/weld all these cans together (with the one
with the bottom on the bottom, naturally). This might be hard if you
used pop-cans since the edges would be very rough (because you'd need to
actually CUT off the top, not use a an opener). Anyway, now that's done.
Last, make a small hole in the side of the bottom can (as close as you
can get to the bottom). It just has to be big enough to squirt the Ronson's
inside. Next, you need to make "Roly Poly Match Heads". You must find a ball
that is hollow, and will fit as best as possible in the cans, so it doesn't
wobble too much, but doesn't have trouble coming out the end.
Make a small slice in the ball (not a hole), and start pouring in cut
off match heads (eddy lights, remember) until it's quite tightly packed. Put
this down the barrel of the mortar, tilt it upright at about a 45 degree
angle. Squirt some ronsons into the small hole at the bottom (and a bit
around the hole, in case it doesn't catch right away), light it, and BOOM.
The ball should go VERY far if the cannon is made well, and it will explode
when it lands to boot!
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__
9 volt battery
Relatively easy (as I always say) to build. After you've cut the
small piece of ABS in half. Tape the two "handles" to the bottom of the larger
piece of ABS (the launcher itself), one will act as the front handle, and the
other will have the "switch" on it.
Tape them in places where it's comfortable to you. You will be holding
it most likely on your right shoulder, and your left arm will be out
front supporting you, and your right arm will be close into you, ready to
pull the switch, and the back end of the barrel will be resting on your
shoulder (don't worry, barely anything comes out the back, just a bit of
smoke).
Next put the rocket together (you can read the instructions
yourself). *BUT*, since the rocket only supplies fins for the back end
(because your supposed to be launching it up, not less than something like 70
degrees (which is considered "ballistic")), you will have to make makeshift
fins for the from so the rocket is pointing straight ahead inside the
launcher, not the from end sagging down, and only the back end up.
The good part about getting he smallest rocket is, the transparent
film canisters (once again, they are the better of the two types, so ask for
those), have sort of a circle that juts out on the lid, which fits EXACTLY
into the cardboard body of the rocket. So, voila, you can put a mine on the
front. It seems they make these things fit nicely just for us anarchist
doesn't it?
Anyway, once you have the rocket built, you should now hook up some
long wire to the switch you have, and have one end going to the battery, and
from the other terminal on the battery to the rocket, and the other end
of the switch to the rocket. Here's a diagram...
________________________
^ * = switch
front handle
Close up diagram:
+-
Obviously, if you have a mine, the "button" on the top of the mine will
be facing outwards, so when it lands, boom. The weight of the engine
should balance the weight of the bomb on the front. Well, there you have
it. Just point, and launch!
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__
A. Gunpowder:
75% Potassium Nitrate
15% Charcoal
10% Sulfur
B. Ammonal:
Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with
aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the %
composition for Ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using small
amounts.
3. So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it.
Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a
drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which
reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the
iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple
when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may ignite the hydrogen and begin
burning.
Put the potassium chlorare + sugar around and on top of the main pt.
To start the reaction, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top of
the starter mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts iron(III) oxide to 1
part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar.
A. Mercury(II) Fulminate
B. Nitrogen Triiodide
Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive.
Never store it and be careful when you're around it- sound, air movements,
and other tiny things could set it off.
Materials-
2-3g Iodine
15ml conc. ammonia
8 sheets filter paper
50ml beaker
feather mounted on a two meter pole
ear plugs
tape
spatula
stirring rod
Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5
minutes.
Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the
brown solid...). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stack
of four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting
each on a separate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry
undisturbed for AT LEAST 30 minutes (preferably longer). To detonate, touch
with feather. (WEAR EAR PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERY
LOUD!)
Materials-
70ml concentrated sulfuric acid
30ml concentrated nitric acid
5g absorbent cotton
250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate
250ml beaker
ice bath
tongs
paper towels
Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 ml
nitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in
the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths
of 500ml ater. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml
1M sodium bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no
bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.
D. Nitroglycerin
Materials-
Put the 150ml beaker in the ice bath and make sure that it is very
cold. Slowly add the 70ml sulfuric and 30ml nitric acids to the beaker,
trying to maintain a low temperature. When the temperature starts to level
off, add about 10ml glycerin. If it turns brown or looks funny, **RUN LIKE
HELL**. When Nitroglycerin turns brown, that means it's ready to explode...
If it stays clear and all works well, keep the temperature as low as you
can and let it sit for a few hours. You then should have some Nitroglycerin,
probably mixed with nitric and sulfuric acids. When you set it off, you
must not be nearby. Nitroglycerin can fill 10,000 times its original area
with expanding gases. This means that if you have 10ml's of Nitroglycerin
in there, it will produce some 100,000ml's of gases.
A. Peroxyacetone
Materials-
4ml Acetone
4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide
4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid
150mm test tube
Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add
4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid
should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a
water bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours.
Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at
least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and
light it (while staying at least a meter away).
6g zinc powder
1g sulfur powder
Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should
be created.
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__
This is serious stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treat
it seriously. For you kids out there who watch too many cartoons, remember
that if a part of your body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blown
away. If you can't treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.
Each part will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them.
Read 'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of general
rules that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOW
about the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughly
before starting anything.
1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at
most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for
bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with
every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)
6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the
material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the
contents down.
7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire
hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be
stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an
accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous,
they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably
locked away.
15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they
produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot
lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode
dust floating in the air.
16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.
18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or
put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle
than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can.
This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have
been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again,
please do not use metal in any circumstance.
19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using.
Some information will be included in each bit, but look for
whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once
thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.
20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't
forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.
21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a
half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload
or reuse any dud.
22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are
doing and leave until it settles.
These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's look
at one example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress who
played the good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding special
effects got out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got really
messed up by the green coloring used on her face, and the original actor who
played the Tin Man got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used to
color his face.
The actor we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. The
point is, these chemicals were being used under the direction of people a
lot more knowledgeable of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidents
still happened. Don't take this stuff lightly.
We will be using the following materials this time. Get familiar with
them. Some can be highly dangerous.
An element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be purchased
as a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to superpure
(99.9%) can be used. It is dangerous to inhale the dust. The dust is also
flammable, by itself. In coarser forms, like powder, it is less dangerous.
Antimony Sulfide Sb S
23
Also known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide. (There is also a "Red" form, which
is useless to us.) This is used to sharpen the report of firecrackers,
salutes, etc., or to add color to a fire. The technical, black, powder is
suitable. Avoid contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result.
Poisonous. Used as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and precautions are
the same as with a mixture containing Potassium Nitrate.
Charcoal C
The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called King's Green
or Vienna Green. It has been used as an insecticide, and is available
as a technical grade, poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used in
fireworks to add color. Careful with this stuff. It contains arsenic.
Dextrin
Potassium Dichromate K Cr O
2 27
Much more stable than its chlorate brother, this chemical is a white
or slightly pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to
make the mixture safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to make
up for this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous.
Red Gum
Shellac Powder
An organic rosin made from the secretions of insects which live in India.
The exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other gums.
The common mixture of shellac and alcohol sold in hardware stores
should be avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color.
Sodium Oxalate Na C O
224
Used in making yellow fires. Available as a fine dust, which you should
avoid breathing.
Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for adding
a red color to fires. It comes as a white powder, in a pure, technical,
or natural state.
By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars and
fires. Available in the technical grade as a white powder. It does double
duty as an oxidizer, but has a disadvantage in that it will absorb some
water from the air.
Since this chemical does not absorb water as readily as the nitrate, it
is often used when the powder is to be stored. In its natural state it is
known as Celestine, which is comparable to the technical grade used in
fireworks.
Sulfur S
Zinc Dust Zn
Of all the forms of zinc available, only the dust form is in any way
suitable. As a dust, it has the fineness of flour. Should be either of the
technical or high purity grade. Avoid breathing the dust, which can cause
lung damage. Used in certain star mixtures, and with sulfur, as a rocket
fuel.
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__
In the following examples, we'll use the letter "X" to show the presence
of a generic metal ion.
Note that Nitrates are stingy with the oxygen that they give up. They
only give one third of what they have.
Some Some
Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen
Chlorates are very generous, on the other hand. They give up all the
oxygen they have. Furthermore, they give it up more easily. It takes less
heat, or less shock to get that oxygen loose. Mixtures using chlorates
burn more spectacularly, because a smaller volume of the mix needs to be
wasted on the oxidizer, and the ease with which the oxygen is supplied makes
it burn faster. But the mixture is also MUCH more sensitive to shock.
Some Some
Chlorate Chloride Oxygen
Some Some
Perchlorate Chloride Oxygen
Reducing agents, like sulfur and charcoal (carbon) simply burn the
oxygen to produce sulfur dioxide and carbon dioxide. It's usually best to
include a mixture of the two in a pyrotechnic mixture, as they burn at
different speeds and temperatures, and the proper combination will help
control the speed of combustion.
Coloring agents are very interesting. It's long been known that
various metals produce different colored flames when burned in a fire. The
reasons are buried in the realm of quantum physics, but the results are what
matters, and we can present them here. Note that if we use an oxidizing agent
that contains a colorizing metal, it can do a double job. It can produce
oxygen and color.
Barium -Barium salts give a pleasant green color. Barium Nitrate is most
often used.
Sodium -Sodium salts give an intense yellow color. So intense in fact that
any sodium compounds in a mixture will usually wash out other
colorizers. As has been said, Sodium Nitrate absorbs moisture from
the air, and so is not really suitable to impart color. Instead,
Sodium Oxalate is usually used. This does not absorb lots of
water, but has the disadvantage of being very poisonous.
Copper -Copper salts are used to give a blue color. Blue is the most
difficult color to produce, and it's usually not too spectacular.
Usually Copper Acetoarsenite (Paris Green) is used. This compound
contains arsenic, and is very poisonous. Since it still doesn't
produce a very memorable blue, it's often used with mercurous
chloride, which enhances the color, but is also poisonous, and
expensive, to boot.
Potassium -Potassium salts will give a delicate purple color, if they're very
pure. The cheaper lab grades of potassium nitrate often contain
traces of sodium, which completely obscure the purple color. In
order to get the purple coloring, very pure grades must be used,
and you must be very careful to mix it in very clean vessels, and
scoop it from the supply jar with a very clean scoop. The color is
certainly worth the effort, if you can get it.
Some mixtures that burn in colors also contain binders, that hold
the mixture together in a solid lump. These lumps are usually referred to as
stars. The balls fired from a roman candle or the colorful showers sprayed
from aerial bombs are examples of stars. Depending on the mixture, the binder
is either a starch called dextrin or finely powdered orange shellac. A
shellac-like material called red gum is also used on occasion. In some
mixtures, the shellac powder also helps produce a nice color. Shellac
mixtures are moistened with alcohol to get them to stick together. Dextrin
mixtures are moistened with water.
The following are formulas for mixtures that burn with various colors.
Parts are by weight.
Red
Potassium Chlorate 9
Sulfur 2
Lampblack 1
Strontium Nitrate 9
bind with shellac
dissolved in alcohol
Blue
Green
Yellow
Potassium Chlorate 8 Potassium Chlorate 8
Sodium Oxalate 3 Sodium Oxalate 4
Lampblack 2 Shellac Powder 2
Bind with shellac in Dextrin 1
alcohol or dextrin Bind with alcohol
in water
White
Potassium Nitrate 6
Sulfur 1
Antimony Sulfide 2
bind with dextrin in
water
Orange
Strontium Nitrate 36
Sodium Oxalate 8
Potassium Chlorate 5
Shellac Powder 5
Sulfur 3
Bind with alcohol
Brilliant White
Potassium Perchlorate 12
Aluminum Dust 4
Dextrin 1
Bind with water
Golden Twinkler Stars - Falls through the air and burns in an on and
off manner. The effect is spectacular. A pumped or cut star.
Potassium Nitrate 18
Sulfur 3
Lampblack 3
Aluminum Powder 3
Antimony Sulfide 3
Sodium Oxalate 4
Dextrin 2
Bind with water
Zinc Spreader Stars - Shoot out pieces of burning zinc and charcoal.
These stars are much heavier than usual, and require larger charges if they're
to be fired from a tube.
Zinc Dust 72
Potassium Chlorate 15
Potassium Dichromate 12
Granular Charcoal 12
Dextrin 2
bind with water
Potassium Perchlorate 6
Barium Nitrate 1 Potassium Perchlorate 4
Aluminum 20 Aluminum, medium 2
Dextrin 1 Dextrin 1
bind with shellac in bind with shellac in alcohol
alcohol
Willow Tree Stars - Use large amounts of lampblack -- too much to burn
fully. Gives a willow tree effect.
Potassium Chlorate 10
Potassium Nitrate 5
Sulfur 1
Lampblack 18
bind with dextrin in water
As always, don't forget that it's just plain stupid to go buying all
these materials from one chemical supply house. When you buy it all as a
group, they know what you plan to do with it, and they keep records. If
anyone goes investigating the source of homemade fireworks and checks with
your supplier, there will be a lead straight to you. Be sure to cover your
tracks.
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__
Notes:
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Notes:
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Notes:
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__