YARNS

Polymers
TEXTILE CHAIN
Fiber Manufacturing Natural fibers
Man-made fibers Fiber Preparation

Loose fibers/stock

Yarn Manufacturing
Yarn

Fabric Manufacturing
Fabric (Grey)

Fabric Finishing
Fabric (Finished)
 YARNS

• Linear strand of twisted fibers in continuous long strand

• Conversion of fibers into yarn is called spinning
 YARNS… (CONTD.)

Yarns are the basic materials that are used in the production of
woven and knitted fabrics.
YARNS… (CONTD.)
FACTORS AFFECTING YARN CHARACTERISTICS

Composition of fiber

Length of fiber (staple or filament)

Type of yarn (spun or filament)

Count (fineness)

Number of strands of yarn (single or plied)

Amount of yarn twist

Direction of yarn twist

Construction of yarn (simple, complex or textured)

 SELECTION OF YARNS FOR FABRICS
Performance expectation of fabric

End use of fabric

Type of fabric

Need or demand of fabric

Cost of fabric
 CHARACTERISTICS OF SPUN YARNS

•Composed of staple fibers

•Made from cotton, flax, or wool staple fibers
•Made from natural (silk) or man made filaments which
are cut into short lengths
•Bulkier than filament yarns
•More hairiness and fuzzy appearance
•Fiber ends protrude from surface throughout the length
•More imperfections or irregularities
•More amount of twist than filament yarns
•Dull appearance than filament yarns;
•Rough or soft to touch depends on amount of twist
•Provide good covering power
 CHARACTERISTICS OF WOOLEN YARNS

•Made from short staple wool fibers

•Coarse / bulky / thicker/ fuzzy yarns
• More hairiness;
•Uneven yarn
•More imperfections/irregularities
•Produce loose or napped fabric structure
•Dull appearance or uneven look
•Produce good insulating properties and providing warmth
•Resist wrinkling and do not maintain desired crease
 CHARACTERISTICS OF WORSTED YARNS

•Made from long staple wool fibers

•Smooth, finer yarns and highly twisted
• More uniformity/ less imperfections and irregularities
•Good insulating properties & providing less warmth
•Maintain desired creases and offers better formability
and shape retention
 Single-Ply yarn

•A yarn composed of single strand spun yarn,

which is produced by spinning process
•When un twisted, the fibers can be separated

Double-Ply yarn

•A yarn composed of two or more single-ply yarn, which

is produced by doubling/winding process
•When un twisted, the single-ply yarns can be separated
 MONOFILAMENT YARN
•A single strand of filament yarn
•cannot be separated, it is an indivisible component

MULTIFILAMENT YARN

•Yarns are composed of two or more filament strands

twisted together to form one yarn
•When untwisted, each filament can be seen
 Characteristics of filament yarns

•Made from natural silk or man made filament

•Fine and smooth and more pliable than spurn yarns
•More uniform in diameter than spun yarns
•Provides lustrous and shiny appearance
•Loosely twisted
•Filaments can be separated when untwisted and can be
counted
•Produce high seam and yarn slippage
•Poor covering power
•Stronger than spun yarns of the same diameter and fiber
content
 TEXTURED FILAMENT YARNS

• Textured yarns are end result of physical, chemical or thermal

manipulation of filament yarns
• Texturizing produces a permanent change in physical structure of the
yarn.
• Texture varies from soft to crisp
• Good covering power than untextured yarns
• Spongy and springy feel
• Better shape retention
• Good stretch and elongation recovery
• Good resistance to undesirable crease and wrinkles
• Better strength and abrasion resistance
• Higher bulk without added weight
• Provides insulating properties
• Improves resistance to yarn and seam slippage
• Improved absorbency and dyeing properties
• Better dimensional stability and opaque fabric structure
 TYPES OF TEXTURED YARNS
Stretch yarns
•Man made filaments can be treated to
produce yarns with some degree of stretch
and recovery by chemical and mechanical
methods.

•The resultant yarn will have good bulk and

stretch characteristics as well as complete
recovery.

•Following texturization process are used to

produce stretch yarns:

False twister
Edge crimping
Gear crimping
Stuffer box
 Bulk yarns
•Bulk yarns are created and processed by loop formation in yarn
structure; the process introduces crimp, loops, curls and waviness
in the yarn.
•These yarns are produced by air texturization & Knit and de knit
method.
•The resulting yarns of these processes are bulked and twisted

Characteristics
• Made of staple or filament fibers;
• Increased bulkiness, loftiness and volume without added weight
• Improved covering power due to bulkiness
• Retain bulkiness both stressed and relaxed conditions
• Provides warmth/ insulating properties
• Reduces strength and luster
 FANCY/NOVELTY YARNS

Novelty Yarns are single or plied yarn structures

characterized by intentionally introduced irregularities in
size, twist and multi colored effects.

Novelty yarn construction

Base yarn – to control length and stability

Effect yarn – to add texture and aesthetic value
Binder yarn – to hold effect yarn with the base yarn
 Texture and Aesthetics of Novelty Yarns
•Varying type and count of yarn
•Varying the amount of twist / direction of twist
•Adding metallic yarns
•Adding different colored yarns

Characteristics of Novelty Yarns

Enhance texture and design to fabric
Produces surface interest, variation in styling and unusual appearance in
fabric
Hand varies soft to light and harsh to rough
Strength varies different part of the fabric
Non-uniform thickness throughout the fabric
Uneven performance in wear
Reduced abrasion resistance
Pilling and snagging is critical problem
 TYPES OF NOVELTY YARNS

Boucle Yarn
A three-ply yarn with small, tight
loops protruding from the body of
the yarn at widely spaced intervals.

Brushed / Napped Yarn

A staple yarn in which the short
fibres of the yarn are brushed to the
surface to form a soft bulked effect.
 Chenille Yarn
A yarn with pile fibres held between
plied core yarns producing a hairy or
velvety effect.

Corkscrew Yarn
A two-ply yarn consisting of one slack
twisted and one hard-twisted fine yarn.
The different size yarns are twisted
together at a different rate with the thinner
yarn twisting around the thicker yarn.
 Flock / Flake Yarn
A single yarn in which round or elongated
tufts of fibres are inserted at regular
intervals.
The tufts are held in place by the twist of
the base yarn.

Seed Yarn
A tiny, round or oval enlarged nub
produced by crimping and twisting a yarn
repeatedly over a base yarn at regular
intervals.
 Slub Yarn
A thick and thin yarn with randomly spaced
soft, lofty portions produced by irregular
intervals of twist and lack of twist in the
yarn formation.

Spiral Yarn:
•A two-ply yarn consisting of the staple
twisted soft, thick yarn and one hard-
twisted fine yarn.
•The thick yarn is twisted and wound
spirally around the fine yarn.
 Eyelash
It appears as a thread base, with several
long strands spaced at even intervals that
jut out at an angle from the main strand.
 Splash Yarn
An elongated enlargement or nub produced
by crimping and twisting a yarn over base
yarn at a regular intervals.

Knot Yarn

A tiny, round or oval enlarged nub

produced by crimping and twisting a yarn
repeatedly over a base yarn.
 Plied Yarn

A yarn composed of two or more single strands that are twisted

together; when untwisted, single strands can be counted; Plied
yarns are identified as two, three, or four ply yarns

Objectives
•Blending of different fiber yarns
•Combine spun and filament yarns
•Introduce textured or novelty yarns
•To improve the strength of yarn
•Minimize irregularities
•Utilize multi strands of fine yarns to
produce thick strand
•Modify texture and color composition
 Characteristics of Plied Yarn
•Thicker, heavier and coarser
•Less flexible than single yarn
•Affect drape of the fabric
•May differ in amount of twist and direction of twist

Cord/ Cable-ply yarn

• Multiple ply yarn- composed of
two or more plied yarns- twisted
together;
• 3,6-ply cord yarn indicates that
there are three plies in the yarn
construction; each of the three
plies contains six single strands.
 Core Spun Yarn

•A yarn which has one type of fiber wrapped around the another yarn.
•The structure consists of a core, which could be spandex or any other
type yarn, and outer layer usually made up of natural, man-made or
blended fiber yarn.
•The inherent property of yarn is influenced by inner core;
The outer layer determines the hand and texture
 Yarn Twist

The spiral arrangement of fibres around the yarn axis

Twist binds the fibres together and contributes strength to the yarn.

Factors affecDegree of yarn twist affects the following

characteristics of fabrics

Hand
Appearance
Texture
Drape
Durability
Air, water permeability and dye penetration
 Amount of Yarn Twist
THE AMOUNT OR DEGREE OF YARN TWIST IS MEASURED IN NUMBER OF TURNS
PER INCH (TPI).
THE AMOUNT OF TWIST VARIES WITH
.
STAPLE LENGTH OF THE FIBER
COUNT OF THE YARN
END USE OF THE FABRIC

 Amount of yarn twist and end uses

 Low twist Filament yarns- 2-3 tpi smooth feel
 Napping twist- Warp; 12 tpi - Weft; 6-8 tpi, Bulky, soft and weak
 Average twist - Warp; 25-30 tpi & Weft; 16-20 tpi, Most common, smooth, Regular,
durable and comfortable
 Voile twist High twisted singles 35-40 tpi are plied with 16-18 tpi singles; Finer yarns,
strong and harsher hand
 Crepe twist Singles - 40-80 or more tpi are plied with 2-5 tpi singles, Snarling or kink
fabrics with good drape and texture
 DIRECTION OF YARN TWIST

S – Twist, when held in vertical

position and twist flows up wards in
left-hand direction.

Z – Twist, when held in vertical

position and twist flows upwards in
right-hand direction.

Direction of twists mainly affects

light reflecting qualities, texture and
hand of the fabrics.

Z – twist is more common in both

woven and knits.
 BLENDS AND COMBINATIONS
Single yarns composed of different mixture of two or more fibres are called
blended yarns.

Blends are usually spun yarns, however it is possible to combine two or more
filament yarns to produce a filament blend.

Fabrics produced from blended yarns are also called blends.

Yarns produced from fibre blends in order to improve their properties by

drawing upon the best qualities of both fibres
 to reduce cost of the product.
 To optimize the best available inherent properties of fibres according to end-use

 A blend of polyester and cotton, for example, obtains high strength and wrinkle
resistance from the polyester and comfort from cotton.

 An acrylic/ wool blend can provide a comfortable and bulky cloth at lower cost
than 100% wool fabric.

 A blend fabric is one in which all the yarns are a homogeneous and intimate
mixture of two or more fibres.
 BLENDS AND COMBINATIONS

 It is possible to make a woven fabric in which the warp yarns are

different from the weft yarns. It is known as combination fabric.

 An example of this construction is an apparel fabric in which the warp

yarns are 60-40 polyester/viscose blend yarn and weft yarns are
100% filament polyester.

 The polyester filament are stronger and dimensionally stable. The

spun yarns are more comfortable than filament yarns, and provide a
better hand and surface texture to the fabric.

 In this case, the combination fabric would perform better than 100%
polyester, a polyester/ viscose blend or 100% viscose fabric.