Lenny Lamb SSC Corner Drool Pads

Tutorial
This pattern and photo tutorial will give you step by step directions
on how to sew your own corner drool pads for your Soft Structured
Carrier (SSC.) It will fit on Standard and Toddler size Lenny Lamb
carriers, and will fit most brands of soft structured carriers with 3.5” wide straps. Your drool pads will protect
the corner of your carrier where our children tend to suck/lick and will help prevent unnecessary fading and
wear and tear.

Thank you for your purchase, and I hope you enjoy this tutorial. I welcome your feedback and pictures of your
finished work!

COPYRIGHT INFORMATION:
This Tutorial and Pattern was prepared by and is property of Cathleen Emmart of PERCH Customs. All images
and items contained in this tutorial and pattern are my property and not to be copied or posted anywhere
(including on any social media sites) without my express, written permission. You may not copy or distribute
this pattern or tutorial to any other group or individual without my express, written consent. You may not
produce derivative (imitated) works based on my pattern or design.

This pattern was developed by me, and is available for limited commercial use. If you use my pattern to make
drool pads that you offer for sale, I humbly ask that all listings and advertisements include the following
statement: “This product features PERCH Customs’ corner drool pad design.”

*Note: There will be pictures in this tutorial from my other tutorial for Tula drool pads (orange dots and mint
green fabric), but the process is the same for the Lenny Lamb drool pads.

Supplies and Materials Needed:

 Outer Fabric (Luna striped wrap or/and  Corner Drool Pad pattern (3 total pieces)
orange dots for this tutorial): approx. 20”  Matching/coordinating thread
long x 10” tall (A fat quarter will work!)  Fabric marker
 Inner fabric (purple minky or/and mint  Scissors/rotary cutter
green for this tutorial): approx. 20” long x  Pins
10” tall (A fat quarter will work!)  Snaps
 Inside absorbent material (e.g. fleece,  Sewing machine
cotton, terry etc.): approx. 20” long x 10”
tall (white fleece for this tutorial)

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 Note: make sure you prewash fabric to reduce/eliminate shrinkage and iron before you cut, or the final
product will shrink! When working with wrap scrap, it helps to serge or finish the edges of the wrap
before you wash it, otherwise it will fray badly.

1. Print out the four (4) page PDF pattern pieces onto cardstock or other paper. IMPORTANT: Make sure
scaling is set to “None,” “Actual size,” or “Custom Scale: 100%” when printing. Check the 1” test square
on page 1 to ensure your pattern printed correctly.

2. Cut out the pattern pieces, taping “Piece A” to the second half of “Piece A” on the dashed lines (so you
have one big front piece).

3. Use scissors or a rotary cutter to cut 2 of each fabric/material (ex: 2 sets of inner fabric, 2 sets of outer
fabric and 2 sets of inside absorbent material). See tips below BEFORE YOU CUT.

When you are cutting the pieces out, fold the fabric so it’s wrong side/wrong side together, so you get
one mirrored pattern piece from each side of the fabric (see pic #2 in this series.)

If you do not fold the fabric to cut 2 pieces at once, then you need to cut one pattern piece out of the
right side of the fabric, then FLIP THE PATTERN PIECE OVER and cut another piece on the right side of
the fabric, with the pattern piece facing the other direction (so you get 2 opposite/mirrored pieces)
for each pattern piece.
This will make ONE drool pad,
for one strap on your carrier.
(Inner fabric, outer fabric and
inner absorbent material.)

You need one more set

(mirrored image) just like this
for the other strap side.

Outside fabric/wrap pieces cut out Inner fabric pieces cut out

Don’t forget your absorbent material! You only need 2 of each pattern piece.

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4. After you’ve cut out your pieces, put the right sides of the inside fabric pieces (purple minky) together and pin,
making sure to match up the curves. Do the same for the outside pieces (striped Luna wrap), and include the
inside absorbent material (white fleece) on the front and back of the outside (striped Luna wrap) pieces. Put the
piece of absorbent material (white fleece) down, then put the big pattern piece on top of that (right side of the
fabric facing you), then put the 2 smaller pattern pieces on, with the right side of the fabric down, matching up
the curves. Finally, put the remaining white fleece pattern pieces on top, matching the curves, and pin. All your
fabric should be right sides together at this point.

Outer fabric with the

absorbent material
pinned on.

Inner fabric (minky) pinned together

Here is what all the pieces will look

like when you have them all pinned,
ready to sew.

5. Using a ¼” seam allowance, sew down the left and right sides of both sets of pattern pieces (there will be 4 total:
2 with fleece, 2 without. Do NOT sew the tops or bottoms. Additionally, you can sew a zig zag down the sides
(or use a serger) to reduce fraying of the seams with wear and washings.

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 Here’s what the pieces will look like once you’ve sewn down all the sides:

6. If you would like to add a ribbon tag(s) so you can attach toys etc. to your drool pads, now is the time. Cut a
piece(s) of ribbon the length you would like (I cut 4 here, so there are 2 on each drool pad), fold it in half, and
place the looped end onto the top of the outer fabric (orange dots) and pin it between your two layers of fabric
in step 5 (raw edge of the ribbon is at the top edge of the pads). I put the loops at the top of these drool pads
because I felt like any toys you might attach would be too low for your child to reach, but you can put them on
the bottom curve if you’d rather.

a. Another way to do it is to take a piece of tape (I used painter’s tape here) and tape the loop down to
one of the fabrics (outer orange here) then pin it down in step 5. You can sew over the tape and then
remove it after you sew it shut.

7. Next, take the pieces (1 of the outer fabric and 1 with the inner fabric) you’ve sewn and put the right sides of the
fabric together, making sure to match up the curves and the corners, and then pin them together. I match up
and pin at the seams first, then the corners, then fill in the rest of the edges. Make sure you leave a section at
the top (or bottom if you’re adding ribbon loops) using pins to mark it, that you DO NOT SEW SHUT (yet), where
you will turn your fabric through (see pic). When sewing your drool pads, it works best to leave your turning
gap on one of the sides (right or left), rather than the top/bottom as shown in this tutorial. If you are adding
ribbon loops, make sure the fold of the ribbon is sandwiched between the two layers of fabric and the ends of
the ribbon are sticking out the edges of your pieces so you will catch them as you sew (see pics on the next
page.) REPEAT FOR THE OTHER DROOL PAD.

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8. Starting at one side of your gap, using a ¼” seam allowance , sew around all edges and along the curves, making
sure to catch all layers of your fabric, stopping at the beginning of your gap. If you are including ribbon tags,
backstitch (sew back and forth) over the ribbon a few times as you go, to make sure it is secure. Additionally,
you can sew a zig zag along all sides (or use a serger) to reduce fraying with wear and washings. Be sure to leave
a gap that you do NOT sew. (I leave mine on the right side middle.)

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9. Clip the corners of your pieces before you turn it, so it reduces bulk. Here is what they look like after you’ve
sewn all the edges and clipped the corners. I also trim the right and left sides a bit to reduce the bulk of the
fabrics for when you install the snaps.

10. Using the gap you left at the top (or sides/bottom, if you added ribbon loops) of your piece, turn it inside out, so
the right side of the fabric is now out. Make sure you push out the corners so they’re as pointy as you can get
them. Roll the edge seams between your fingers to get them straight and even.

11. At this point, I like to test the fit of the drool pads on my carrier, in case I need to make any adjustments. They
should fit pretty snuggly, because the weight of your child in your carrier will relax them a bit, as will normal
wear. Just make sure the edges overlap on the backside enough to add snaps. If the pads are too big, you can
flip the pad inside out again and adjust your sewing line. Then flip it back through so it’s right side out.

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12. Once you’re happy with the fit of your pads, pin your turn hole closed, making sure you have enough of a fold so
that when you sew it shut, the thread will catch the fabric and close the hole. If you added ribbon loops, fold
them over the edge of your drool pad, so they lay flat on the outer fabric and pin and/or tape them down so you
can topstitch over them.

(I know, my stripes are not matching here, I unfortunately didn’t

have enough wrap scrap to get them lined up like I wanted to.
But, the good thing is, when the drool pads are closed, the stripes
on the back line up perfectly! And you never see the front and
back at the same time, right?!  )

13. Using a straight stitch, topstitch around all edges, as close as you like to the edge (I usually set my machine to
6.0). This will close the hole at the top (or side) and create a finished look. Backstitch a few times where you
started, so the closure is more secure. Also, backstitch at the ribbon loops if you added them, to secure them
down as well.

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14. Now it’s time for snaps! Put your drool pads on your carrier, and make 3 marks on each pad where you want the
snaps to go (top, middle and bottom.) This is mostly personal preference, but I try and get them close to the
edges, but making sure the snap has enough space to squish closed properly (usually about ¼” from the edges).
Try and make sure it’s not sitting on any extra layers of fabric (this is why we trimmed the excess fabric from the
corners and sides in step 8.) Make sure your mark is in line with the mark you make on the other side it will snap
to.

15. Use your awl to make holes where you just marked for your snaps. Attach your snaps, making sure you get the
male to female parts correct on either side.

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16. You’re all done! Admire your finished pads on your carrier!

Thank you so much for your purchase! I hope you’ve enjoyed this tutorial and making
your own drool pads! Please visit me on Facebook, I love to see completed pictures!