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military illustrated
10
4 NEWS
34 Military modelling product news
6 ABANDONED BY THE
ROADSIDE; THE TIGER II
IN NORMANDY
Diorama ideas based on a set of images from
the Normandy campaign
COVER
16 WHEN THE EAST FEATURE
WIND BLOWS
Angus Creighton builds Dragon’s 1:35
Flakpanzer IV 3.7cm Flak ‘Ostwind’
22 HARLEY-DAVIDSON AT WAR
Modelling references for Harley-Davidson
military motorcycles
28 DESERT PREACHER
Bronco’s 1:35 British self-propelled ‘Bishop’
howitzer in desert camouflage
40 PATTON MAKER
Construction on Dragon’s new 1:35 post-war
28 M48A3 Patton tank begins
60 ORDNANCE DEPOT
New and recent accessory sets and
modelling materials
62 BOOK REVIEWS
Capturing Clerveux, Case Yellow
66 SIGN OFF
Dioramas to build before you die…
AFV Edition 3
MASTERBOX
• 1:35 Soviet Marines
and German Infantry
hand-to-hand combat
1941-1942
• 1:72 Mk.I Female
IWATA
REVELL
British tank 1916
TRN1 AIRBRUSH creativemodels.co.uk
1:35 ATF DINGO 2 Brand new from Iwata is the TRN1 gravity-feed,
New from Revell In 1:35 we have the beefy ATF Dingo 2 trigger airbrush. This new instrument features BRONCO
GE A2 PatSi, ideal for modern military dioramas and the interchangeable paint cups and a chunky • 1:35
ideal accompaniment for Leopards etc. handgrip for maximum comfort while working. Panzerkampgwagen I
www.revell.eu www.airbrushes.com ausf.F VK18.01
hannants.co.uk
ANDREA MINIATURES
• 1:32 Tank Fight on
the Western Front
1916
historexagents.com
AK INTERACTIVE
• Waterborne Polymer
MINIART Surface Primer White
1:35 EUROPEAN TRAM (AK177)
This highly detailed, injection-moulded • Waterborne Polymer
kit of a typical 1930s/40s European Surface Primer Black
tram, perfect for cityscape dioramas (AK178)
and vignettes. Full internal and creativemodels.co.uk
external detail, plus number decals
and a section of cobbled street with DIOPARK, TAIWAN
tram-tracks, naturally. • 1:35 ‘70s German-
www.creativemodels.co.uk made civilian car’,
(Mercedes-Benz
W-123)
www.luckymodel.com
TAMIYA
• 1:35 LRDG
Command Car
North Africa W/7
Figures
www.hobbyco.net
THIS MONTH IN
NEW FROM MINIMAN FACTORY TAMIYA MODEL
1:25 KrAZ-255B RUSSIAN PONTOON BRIDGE-LAYER
The Russian KrAZ bridge laying truck is on its way in resin, MAGAZINE…
in the car/truck-modelling scale of 1:25. Expect lots of Tamiya 1:35 M561 Gama Goat
detail and very fine resin castings. This month’s edition of Tamiya
www.fieldsofglorymodels.co.uk Model Magazine (December,
No.218) is Tamiya 1:35 M561
Gama Goat. Order now at;
www.tamiyamodelmagazine.com
4 Military Illustrated Modeller - December 2013
ABANDONED BY THE
ROADSIDE; THE 503’s
TIGER II IN NORMANDY
Some diorama ideas based on a famous set
of images taken near Vimoutiers, Normandy
AFV Edition 11
Hydraulic lines and an additional armoured windscreen frame The tractor’s headlights were created with clear
resin lenses by ‘Greif’
Rust tones were created with a deep brown colour, mixed from acrylics More dust layers were added to tone down the previously applied Pigments only came into play as a final touch to give the trailer deck a
and stippled on with a cut-down paint brush effects and create a layered effect dry, muddy appearance
Turning to the HEMMT, the chassis was first airbrushed with a The tyres were painted with a near-black colour; 100% black would be The black was treated with Vallejo sand acrylic paint to tone down
home-made desert sand colour too dark for this scale the rubber colour
AFV Edition 13
MODELSPEC
BALATON MODELL 1:72 M1070 HET KIT No.BM7220
BALATON MODELL 1:72 M1000 HEAVY TRAILER KIT No.BM7226
ACADEMY 1:72 M977 HEMMT KIT No.13412
Materials;
FINAL THOUGHTS
The HEMMT was loaded up with 1:72 resin crates and fuel drums The final touch of the model is put it all together,
Balaton Modell kits; Resin, photo-etched brass
which are actually aircraft accessories fixing the HEMMT to the trailer in an authentic Academy M977; Injection-moulded polystyrene, waterslide decals
manner. I noticed how, in one photo, the loading
areas, all very simple to give an aspect of credibly ramps were held in a vertical position by anchoring Paints used;
to the model. I painted the details with Tamiya them to the back of the truck. I found this curious
Tamiya Acrylics XF-67 NATO Green, XF-57 Buff, XF-60 Desert Yellow,
transparent colours as per the other models and because normally this does not happen, so I
XF-69 NATO Black, XF-16 Flat Aluminium, XF-55 Deck Tan, XF-15
I defined some panels with black colour-wash by looked for some chain that was in-scale with the
Flat Flesh, XF-72 JGSDF Brown, X-22 Clear, XF-10 Flat Brown,
Mig Productions. I masked off the windscreen wiper model and I aged it with rust colours. The model
XF-78 Wooden Deck Tan XF-52 Flat Earth
arcs and applied some matt varnish to the windows had been finished for some time when I made this
to emphasize the dusty feel of the HEMMT. The discovery, and it proved to be the perfect finishing
M977's load was generously provided by another touch. With this project, I discovered – thanks to Availability;
friend, Ricardo Rodriguez, and it comprises Balaton Modell – that there some great models in Balaton Modell; www.lonewulfmodels.co.uk
several types of cargo box that are actually aircraft this scale and I think I will continue to build more of www.storymodels.com
accessories. When building military models in this them, alternating them with my 1:48 projects. I feel Academy; www.pocketbond.co.uk
scale, one must take advantage any accessories very happy with the result and hope that you think www.creativemodels.co.uk
you can find! the same! •
Note the textured jacking block with plastic card frame The jack was given a few extra details and the mud guard spring was added from coiled wire
T
he Ostwind or ‘3.7cm Flak 43 Flakpanzer IV’ however one can see the lifting loops welded to
to give it its full title, must be one of the most the upper and the hull sides are not extended, so
elusive vehicles produced by Germany in any presumably traditional towing points were fitted.
numbers. Images of the 1944 prototype have Comparing the position of the hatch guards in front
survived plus two production vehicles abandoned of the turret would suggest they are (to my eyes) not
in 1945; out of just over 40 produced. Records in line, confirming that an unmodified tank hull was
suggest thirty-six Ostwind were built using reworked used to mount the Ostwind turret. We will probably
hulls, while seven used newly produced Ausf J hulls. never know for sure but we can live in hope that
The model seen on these pages would be from the photographs will turn up one day on the weekly
latter batch. eBay auctions that will resolve this debate once and
Debate has raged over recent years regarding for all.
the use of a Tiger I turret ring, whether the turret
was moved forward to enable better access to OSTWIND IN PLASTIC
the engine hatches, which in turn necessitated Moving to the Dragon kit, the lower hull includes
moving the radio operators hatch forward. The three upper return rollers and features extended
latest research suggests the seven built on new towing points at the front and rear. This late war
hulls used un-modified, standard Panzer IV hulls as feature simplified manufacture by eliminating the
seen with this kit. Looking at the remaining images need to mount the traditional towing brackets.
in more detail, the exterior of the prototype is well The rear idler mount is also the simplified final
documented, with a simplified turret design and pattern with a reduced quantity of support fillets.
unmodified hull roof. The suspension follows the same pattern as their
The first production Ostwind abandoned in 1945 other recent Panzer IV kits with well-detailed bogies
features a production-turret mounted on a reworked that can be made to move by removing small pins
‘G or ‘H hull with zimmerit applied. From the angle during assembly. Although the fit is very positive,
of the two images of this vehicle, it is not easy to make sure you assemble the bogies on the hull, as
determine if the turret has been moved forward. it is important to ensure the axles all line up before
The front hatches are not visible at all. installing the wheels.
The second production vehicle features a The wheels take quite a while to clean up as the
production turret but mounted this time on an Ausf mould seam round the outside is relatively deep. I
J hull. Three men stand in front of the abandoned added a slight texture to the tyres to suggest wear
vehicle, thoughtlessly hiding much of the hull, as this also serves to hide any moulding join. While
AFV Edition 17
The Bosch headlight was given a cable conduit One element of the engine air intake baffle has been placed in the lowered position The turret is being test fitted to the hull in this view; the fit is excellent
The idler bases were textured with a dental burr PE brass inner rings are provided for the idler wheels The turret parts come packed carefully to avoid damage
The turret walls are realistically thin and free from distortion Tie-downs and lifting lugs were added by the author
I was doing this, I was conscious that I was adding issues. I added a very slight texture to all panels with the jack and wire cutters seen on the right
six months wear to a tyre that in reality, only saw with a fine dental burr followed by enhancing the hand fender, mounted on a special angle support.
a couple of week’s use! In contrast are the spare many weld beads with a pyrogravure. It must be I can only assume that when the original Ostwind
wheels provided in the kit that feature an accurate said that the accuracy and pattern of the welding was developed, there was a need to keep the side
mould seam running round the tyre that should not represented in the Dragon kit is very good, fenders as clear as possible to allow the crew to
be removed. however reworking each weld bead will mask any move round the outside of the vehicle. The large
Both the tubular rear idler and the cast version visible join lines. turret prevents the use of the hull roof to walk on.
are supplied in the kit. The latter includes etched The fenders are, I believe, unique to this kit I suspect the spare wheels were moved from their
brass inner rings that enable the hollow section of and appear reminiscent of those seen on the usual fender mounted box to the rear hull for the
the rim to be accurately represented. These cast Möbelwagen. The front inner cheeks lack the fixing same reason. Where appropriate, tool clamps were
idlers were used on my finished model. Moving bolts seen on all other Panzer VIs although the replaced with Aber photo-etched examples, with
to the upper hull, the flat plates that make up the spring retainers that stop the hinged front section other clamps made from plastic card.
walls of the fighting compartment are moulded as in place are still retained. I replaced the moulded The long rectangular stowage locker seen on
separate parts to maximise surface detail. Although springs with 3-amp fuse wire coiled around an the right hand fender presumably carried spare
care needs to be taken to ensure they line up appropriately sized drill bit. The tool stowage is barrels and possibly replacement aerials (there
correctly, the fit is very positive and presents no also similar to the layout used on the Möbelwagen is nowhere else visible on the hull to carry spare
The Flak43 is extremely well detailed and needs very few additions Some springs were added to the gunsight mount, but that’s about it
Above and below; views of the 3.7cm Flak43 anti-aircraft gun during assembly. Rather than use an aftermarket replacement item, the kit’s barrel was used as it’s a well detailed and accurate
AFV Edition 19
Modelspec:
Dragon 3.7 cm Flak 43 Flakpanzer IV “Ostwind” Kit no 6550
Items used;
Aber Clamps Kit No 35A93, plastic card
References
Achtung Panzer No 3, Panzer IV
ISBN 4-499-22662-X
Panzerwrecks No 1 (page 56)
The model has been given its camouflage colours and awaits weathering ISBN 0-9754183-0-0
Ground Power No65
German Flakpanzer
Nuts & Bolts No 25
Flakpanzer IV (2010)
Available from;
Dragon kits and accessories are imported and distributed in the
UK by The Hobby Company Limited and are widely available
from good model shops. www.hobbyco.net
Looking into the turret, we can see the Flak43 plus submachine gun
magazines in cases
aerials). The prototype Ostwind featured a taller Outside the turret are what appear to be, four breech assembly and to ensure correct alignment,
box with vertical reinforcing strips on the outside. lifting eyes. Infuriatingly the images of the original I added a brass locating pin. Dragon has made
The production Ostwind featured a shallower box production Ostwind do not show this feature in an excellent job of moulding the perforated flash
and lacked the vertical ribs. Curiously Dragon have profile so the ‘loops’ seen on my model are pure suppressor. However it can be improved by
re-created a mix of both box styles with shallow conjecture on my part. The tarpaulin tie downs are thinning the inner walls, then using a small twist
height, yet vertical strengthening ribs. I simply made from 3-amp fuse wire formed over a piece of drill to open the holes up fully. Painting using
sanded off the vertical rib detail to match the plastic card strip. Humbrol gunmetal really brings this feature to life.
photos of the two production Ostwind. Aber latches Moving inside the turret, the ‘floor’ lacks
complete the assembly. the ring of bolts seen on the Wirbelwind, that THREE-COLOUR SCHEME
would fix the turret to the ball race. I harvested I chose a three colour scheme, typical of the
THE OSTWIND’S UNIQUE TURRET appropriate bolts from the spare suspension Wirbelwind/Ostwind assembly plant where
Time to put the Panzer IV hull to one side and parts supplied in the kit. On the Wirbelwind, green and brown were thinly sprayed over a
investigate the turret. This is beautifully represented communication boxes were installed next to each dark yellow base. The markings are obviously
in the kit with wafer-thin walls. As you handle the crew seat, into which headphones could be conjecture, however it is possible that at least
plastic, it has the feel of a vacuum-forming, but is in plugged. I guess the Ostwind would have a similar one of the forty unphotographed Ostwind
fact injection moulded and is testament to Dragon’s feature so these were made from plastic card carried turret numbers. The plain white markings
skill with this process. Congratulations too to and added. Again referring to the Wirbelwind, seen on the finished model are taken from
Dragon for including a vacuum-formed support for hooks appear on the rear of the turret that appear an Echelon sheet designed for Panther tanks,
the turret parts that prevents the delicate moulding reminiscent of MP40 mounts. I added two MP40s fielded by the 5th SS Panzer Division ‘Wiking’.
from being damaged in the box. You might expect plus ammo to the turret walls. Dragon have produced a fine rendition of the
the turret to be split horizontally, however Dragon Ostwind with details gleaned from the few
chose to have the split vertically. This enables the MAIN WEAPON remaining photographs of the original vehicles
splash panels either side of the gun ‘slot’ to be The Flak 43 is exquisitely rendered with all all represented. The fact that the turret is mounted
moulded in place. Weld beads are included where the features of the original well represented. on an unmodified upper hull does not trouble
the mould allows and appear very accurate. As Coiled fuse wire springs were added to the me as this seems to match the one image of the
with the hull however, I reworked them with the sight mount, but other than that, I found little late Ausf J Ostwind discussed at the start of this
pyrogravure as the vertical join line can be hidden to try and improve. To make final painting a article. Well done Dragon for producing such a
more easily and any missing welds added. little easier, I separated the gun barrel from the great kit. •
HARLEY-DAVIDSON
AT WAR Modelling references for Harley-Davidson
military motorcycles
T
he Harley-Davidson WLA was based on an general military expansion. The entry of the WLC. The WLCs differed from WLAs mainly in the
existing civilian model, the WL, with some United States into the Second World War saw use of some heavier components and Canadian-
design changes for military use. A heavy- significantly increased production, with over pattern blackout lighting.
duty radio rack, a holster for a Thompson 90,000 being produced during the conflict.
submachine gun, skid plate, ammo box, windshield WLA IN MODEL FORM
and leg protectors could be fitted. An oil-bath air WHY WLA? There are several kits of the WLA in 1:35, most
cleaner for the engine was employed to cope with W: The ‘W’ family of motorcycles. Harley Davidson notably from Tamiya and much more recently,
increased levels of dust from off-road use and (except in very early models) gives a letter MiniArt. The latter is a modern production that
changes were made to the crankcase to allow the designation for each model family. The W series at comes with photo-etched spoke discs and some
bike to ford a river without flooding the engine. the time was the newest incarnation of the 45 cubic excellent figures, perfect for vignettes or larger
To reduce night-time visibility, WLAs were inches (740cc) flathead engine and was developed dioramas. •
fitted with a second set of blackout headlights from the earlier R family 1932–1936.
and rear lights. Painted surfaces were finished L: ‘High compression’, in the usual HD scheme.
olive drab and parts that would have been The ‘low compression’ W model was only Wartime photo courtesy of Regional Council
black or chrome were generally blued or briefly available. of Lower Normandy/National Archives USA
parkerized. Some parts were left in unfinished A: ‘Army’. The company would also produce a and Regional Council of Lower Normandy/
aluminium. Production of the WLA began in model to the slightly different specifications of National Archives of Canada
small numbers in 1940 as part of the USA’s the Canadian Army, which would be named the
AFV Edition 23
Note the cabling to the lights and horn Detail view of the horn and headlight
Detail view of rear frame and saddle bag. Note the kick-starter Close-up view shows how the ignition lead fixes to the top of the spark plug
AFV Edition 25
Leather saddle bags will be a challenge to paint on a model Seat is mounted on a single, height-adjustable pin Fuel tank data placard
AFV Edition 27
DESERT
PREACHER
Özgur Güner builds Bronco’s
1:35 British self-propelled
‘Bishop’ howitzer and finishes
it in a well worn desert
camouflage scheme
The engine radiators are provided and these can be observed through the
individually moulded access doors on the rear of the engine deck
areas are also the starting point for the assembly small pins. The workable suspension and tracks the removable hull parts were cemented together
of the model. In particular, the assembly of the add a lot to the model. The rear hatches, spare entirely after necessary areas received paint.
engine involves many complicated sub-assemblies tracks and other small details were then fitted, to The instruments inside received some old left-over
that involve a lot of small parts. If you don’t want complete the assembly of the hull. decals from my spares box. I know that these
to open this area to display the engine section, It was now time to assemble the turret, which will be invisible when the model is completed,
you may completely skip this part of assembly to also compromises of a lot of parts with very but I know that they are there! The interior of the
save time and energy. I would be displaying the complex sub-assemblies like the feed mechanism turret was also painted with white and then the
model with all hatches open, so I tried to add every of the main gun. Extra care and patience is small details were painted by a hand brush using
little bit of detail I could. The engine assembly also needed here as like the running gear, many of Vallejo Panzer Aces colours. The painted and
allows the engine itself to be removable, which will the assemblies can be made workable. I should weathered turret received some minor details to
be very useful during painting. The suspension and also state that the instructions are a little vague spice things up (like the Rita Hayworth picture,
the running gear also compromise a lot of parts in one area. There’s a counterbalance placed on maps, etc) and it was temporarily fitted.
and if they are assembled with great care and the 25pdr gun and it is also provided in the box.
patience it’s possible to make them workable. The Despite this, the gun on the Bishop did not use EXTERIOR PAINTWORK
upper portion of the lower hull is moulded as a this part. There’s a small leaflet in the instructions After masking the painted areas on the model,
single piece, with a lot of sharp and nice details telling you about this, but it’s not really clear and the entire thing was primed with Revell’s Matt 47
and it fits the lower hull like a dream. As the some of the drawings can confuse you. Lastly, Mouse Grey. Bishops were painted green in the
interior of the model will be painted later, this part the turret section also involves some parts I only factory and then in the desert they were repainted
should not be cemented at this stage. temporarily fitted in place so that they could be according to the environment they were in. The
Next up are various details on the hull; hatches, removed during painting. With the addition of the profile I chose is a Bishop that was repainted with
headlights, exhausts and several other small side skirts and the attachment of some small detail sand over its original green colour. To replicate
details that involve many small parts. The PE fret parts, the assembly was complete. I could now the effect of the repainting, I first sprayed the
provided with the kit is adequate and helps to proceed into the painting stage, which was made entire model with Tamiya’s XF-58 Olive Green
improve the detail of some critical parts. I just up of multiple stages. and made created highlights using Tamiya Buff on
used some metal wire to create the connection some areas. The areas that would remain green
hoses of the spare gas tanks, the remaining parts PAINTING were masked and then the remaining portion of
were all provided with the kit. I separated the model into several sub-assemblies, the model received two thin and even coats of
removed the parts I could and then primed the hairspray. After the hairspray dried, it was time
TRACKS interior with matt black. The driver’s compartment to paint the sand colour. I mixed my own colour
The tracks are well designed and well detailed. in the rear hull was painted with white, while the for this using Tamiya’s XF-59 Desert Sand and
Bronco also sells these tracks as aftermarket items engine compartment was painted with a mixture XF-57 Buff. For areas that would reflect more
for Valentine tanks and similar vehicles and they of Tamiya’s red and hull red. The engine was light and look lighter, I added some white into
are very, very good. The tracks should be carefully painted with Modelmaster’s gun metal and then my paint mixture. The masks over the green were
removed from the sprues and the excess plastic put back in place. The interior was weathered removed and I started to wipe off the sand colour
carefully removed which takes even more time using oil colours and several layers of brown on some areas, using warm water and a proper
than actually assembling the tracks themselves. The colour-washes. I used Black Grey (#71056) from sized brush. This application was repeated over
cleaned up track links are held diagonally and Vallejo Model Air series with a brush and sponge the entire model, but the result was not yet what I
pressed to attach them to each other using their to simulate paint chips and scratches. After that, aimed for.
THE WHITE
BUFFALO Lars Richter describes the
building (from the box),
painting and weathering of
Dragon’s Pz.Kpfw. IV Ausf. C
The engine ventilation grilles are in the typical early style. Here we see the plastic
part and the soldered PE-Parts. The latter requires a lot of time but looks much better
The lower hull with wheels mounted. Note the “Magic Tracks”
Extra fine detail is incorporated in the final drive housing and the way they are assembled
Painting starts with the turret interior. The author used a mixture of XF-1 A mixture of XF-2 Flat White and XF-60 Dark Yellow was lightly sprayed over the base-coat
Flat Black and some drops of X-22 Clear as a base-coat
PAINTING TIME together! For the ‘white buffalo’ sign I used a brings the model to life; after having built many
The majority of this version of the Panzer IV were PE-template from Stencilit. The white colour outside models I am a real fan of Vallejo Acrylics and so
used in the French campaign during the early the template was sprayed very carefully with low this paint range is my favourite choice to bring
months of 1940. There have been many discussions pressure. details out.
about the camouflage on tanks of this campaign.
There was an order that all tanks must be painted PAINTING THE LOWER HULL COLOUR-WASHES, OR FILTERS
overall in RAL7021 Dark Grey from the beginning The hull was then sprayed with a diluted mixture After a few hours of drying, it was time for next
of June/July of 1940, after the French campaign. of XF-1 Flat Black and X-22 Clear. This gives the steps. To subtly unify the different shades and
Before this order, all tanks were painted with a two- whole model an undercoat and also helps create colours, the model need some colour-washes,
colour camouflage consisting of dark grey and dark the first impression of depth; it is easier for me sometimes called ‘filters’. With a brush, I applied
brown. Some wartime photos seems to indicate that to apply the following colours over a dark base. a ready-mixed product from Mig Productions’ ‘Sin
those orders were not followed and only dark grey The top colour is dark grey with a light, blueish Industries’ line called ‘Blue for Panzer Grey’ plus an
was used as a single camouflage tone, so therefore tone. For this I mixed Tamiya XF-63 Dark Grey, orange coloured filter made from different Revell and
I decided to apply a simple camo overall of dark XF-50 Field Blue and XF-55 Deck Tan in a ratio Humbrol enamel paints. Please take note that the
grey with a typical blue note. of 5:2:1, thinned with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner. effect only becomes noticeable after the weathering
My Panzer IV represents a vehicle of the 7. Only thin layers were sprayed to preserve the liquids have dried completely. When I was satisfied
Panzer Regiment, belonging to 10.Pz.Div. This unit contrast created by the black base-coat. For further with the result, I applied oil paints (burnt umber,
used a conspicuous (but unofficial) unit symbol on contrast I added XF-1 to the grey toned-mixture black and buff) to the surfaces to create some more
the turret sides, the white buffalo. The Pz.Rgt.7 and sprayed carefully only the deepest areas and effects, especially dust and dirt marks. The oil paints
took part in the French campaign and remained in panels. Well, after this stage the whole model were re-applied in small amounts many times until I
France until 1941. looked nice, but still uninteresting. For more effects was satisfied with the result.
The painting starts with the turret interior. As I used some techniques from the colour modulation During the next step of the weathering process, I
a base-coat I used my favourite Tamiya acrylic style, especially the upper areas which should look began a series of localised colour-washes to further
colours. Here I started with XF-1 Flat Black, brighter. By adding some drops of XF-23 Light Blue define small details and panel lines. For this pin (or
followed by a mixture of XF-2 Flat White and XF-60 to the grey camo mixture, I reached a suitable detail) wash I again used heavily diluted oil paints.
Sand Yellow. This mixture represents the typical effect. Tamiya Masking tape was used to get a well- To avoid nasty stains (‘tide-marks’) I always apply
ivory ‘elfenbein’ paint of German vehicles. After defined edge. Before moving onto the next finishing pure thinner just before I start this wash to wet
this step I applied the usual weathering processes stages, I applied even more highlights and tones the surface. I would recommend applying the oil
like chipping and colour-washes. Unfortunately you by brushing acrylics onto the details. This method paints to a piece of corrugated cardboard before
can’t see this work after gluing the turret halves makes the lesser details much more interesting and you use them on a model. The cardboard absorbs
Dust was added with some dust-coloured pigments (Mig Productions The wheels were treated separately with the same mix of pigments The chipping process starts with light-coloured Vallejo paints, placed on
Europe Dust/Rubble Dust) logical areas
With some red-coloured paints the author simulated deeper scratches For an impression of even more worn off paint the author added small The exhaust box was painted with the help of the rust colours
chips over the previous chips from the Lifecolor Set ‘Dust and Rust’
Subtle tonal variations can be seen on the engine deck The tracks were first painted with ‘Iron’ from Mr.Metal Color The effect after polishing is amazing, it looks like real steel
Finally, some oil stains were applied. The product from Mig A summertime vehicle needs dust; all dust was made with dust coloured An overview of all the materials used
Productions works very well for this purpose pigments to simulate a dusty surface
Materials;
Injection-moulded grey polystyrene, photo-etched brass,
waterslide decals
Paints used;
Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black, XF-2 Flat White, XF-60 Sand Yellow,
X-22 Clear, XF-63 Dark Grey, XF-50 Field Blue, XF-55 Deck Tan,
XF-23 Light Blue
Weathering materials;
SIN Industries ‘Blue for Panzer grey’
Available from;
Dragon kits and accessories are widely available from good
model shops. UK import and distribution by The Hobby Co.
www.hobbyco.net
the linseed oil in the paint, helping you to avoid I always start with the lightest colour and apply Gunze on the contact areas. To achieve a realistic
a glossy, irregular finish. After the colour-washes I small, random chips with a very fine brush. On steel effect, I polished these areas with the help
proceeded with the weathering of the lower hull. German grey vehicles I always use acrylics from of a mini-drill. After this, a pigment powder mix
A thin layer of XF-57 Buff was sprayed to get an Vallejo; German Sand, Sunny Skin and some drops (sand-coloured tones) was washed over the tracks.
optimal base for the pigments. A light shade of of Field Blue. For more depth I used a mixture of The last stage of the weathering process was to
dust-coloured pigment was used, and it was lightly Vermillion, Salmon Rose, and Black. This mixture application of dust-coloured pigments. I applied
stippled on dry, using a soft brush, over areas that was carefully placed onto the lighter chips. The them dry with a fine brush and it’s always better
dust would logically settle. To fix them permanently I idea of this process is to create an impression of and more realistic if you use different pigments and
used Mig Productions’ ready-mixed ‘Pigment Fixer’. well-worn colour, right down to the original rust- mix them to create varied tones.
primer base-coat. The deepest scratches were
CHIPS FOR TEA! simulated by adding German grey. I was very CONCLUSION
Back to the next step and a very important one careful when applying chips because I think this To sum up, it’s safe to say that Dragon’s 1:35
for the effect of a worn and used tank; we need tank was not used under heavy conditions like Pz.Kpfw.IV Ausf.C assembly held no nasty surprises
chips! Why do we need paint chips? This technique later in the war and so my motto here was “less is – everything was clearly shown and parts-fit was
allows you to simulate scratches and worn paint, a more”. perfect. This is a time-consuming kit but everybody
very time consuming process but important for the The tracks were now painted. The first step was can now build his own Panzer IV Auf.C, no matter
finish. But be careful, You should place chips only to spray a mixture of black and brown Tamiya if you’re a novice or experienced modeller. And my
on logical areas (for instance around hatches, on Acrylics, followed by a ‘cloudy’ layer of Buff. last words about this kit; Yes, you can build this kit
the engine deck etc.) With a brush, I then applied ‘Mr.Metall Iron’ from straight from the box, absolutely! •
AFV Edition 39
Part 1
PATTON MAKER
W
hen Dragon announced the release of a kept the parts-count of their M48 to a sensible level dry, sanded it down with a coarse sanding stick. I
new M48A3 Patton tank in 1:35, it was which I was extremely relieved to see. This doesn't then used a round-headed dental burr spinning at
quite a departure from their more usual mean it's a simplified kit at all, it just means it has low speed in my mini-drill to make hundreds of tiny
Panzer IVs and Panzer IIIs of late, but a been designed in a way that it won't take months divots in the plastic surface. This closely replicates
welcome development nonetheless; it's always a to build, which is just fine by me. the texture provided by Dragon and after a while
refreshing change to have something a bit 'left-field' The massive cast hull of the M48 is split into the join line virtually disappears. All that's left to
from time to time. The M48 is an iconic post-war upper and lower halves onto which the engine deck do is to apply a coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 which
tank that perhaps most famously took part in the is built, element by element. The hull is covered seals any tiny gaps and evens out the texture. This
Vietnam War, serving with the US Army and US in an excellent cast steel texture, a real triumph process was carried out over all areas of the hull
Marine Corps for many years up to the introduction by Dragon's designers. The instructions suggest that needed enhancement, including around the
of the M60, itself a development of the M48. that you build the suspension – lower roadwheels, complex joins of the rear/upper hull.
Tamiya's 1:35 kit did a good job for many sprockets and idlers, upper return rollers – onto Dragon provide basically excellent one-piece
years but it has its inadequacies and needs a each half, then join them at a later stage. I think tracks with the kit which are very well detailed,
fair bit of detail and remedial work to produce this is the wrong approach and I chose instead to but are spoilt by a moulding seam that runs
a truly accurate result. Time for a new kit then! mate the hull halves as my first task, which would around the outer edge; very hard to remove or
And Dragon were the first to step up to the mark, allow me to blend and re-texture the join line disguise. I will be using Friulmodel tracks, but
although rumours have it that AFV Club are without the wheels and suspension bases getting more on that next time! •
planning a new M48 too. in the way; these parts can be easily fitted later.
When the review sample arrived from The There's a fair amount of re-texturing required where UK import and distribution; www.hobbyco.net
Hobby Company Ltd I couldn't wait to dive in, the join was made and I used a technique I am Dragon kits are widely available from good
even though my modelling bench was already fully comfortable with for the task. I first filled all the model shops
occupied with Meng's D9R dozer. Dragon have gaps with medium viscosity superglue and once
The turret is rendered with some superb cast-steel texture plus foundry marks. Unfortunately,
Dragon fail to provide the fabric cover over the main gun mantlet which was almost always
seen fitted to M48s in service, so modellers will need to make their own, or purchase an
aftermarket item. Voyager Model and DEF Models have both produced resin mantlet covers and
searchlights too and one will be used on the review model
Running gear and suspension parts are extremely well detailed. Contrary to the instructions, it’s advisable to assemble the hull first, then add the suspension and wheels later
The characteristic angle louvres of the M48 engine access doors are nicely The engine cover comes with grab-handles moulded in; replace them if you This is the plain gun mantlet; most M48s in service wore a
replicated in Dragon’s new kit. A couple of ejector pin marks were filled here must, but they look just fine as they are canvas cover over this part
The engine deck air intake grilles are separate Dragon supply excellent one-piece flexible
mouldings and again, the grab handles look very tracks with this kit, but they do have a
realistic and don’t need replacing with wire noticeable mould seam along their outer edges
AFV Edition 41
The commander’s cupola features clear parts to replicate the vision blocks. The lower half of
the base is clear and its optics are quite easy to mask off
Decals for four M48s are The cupola itself features a ring
provided in the kit, all from of clear plastic which pushes into
the Vietnam conflict the upper moulding to replicate the
vision blocks with great realism
The upper and lower hull halves fit together very well Mr Hobby ‘Mr Cement S’ is the perfect material to bond Each bottle of Mr Cement S comes with a good quality
indeed and only a very fine gap is produced when dry- the kit parts together. It does give off quite a strong smell, brush for easy application. The hull halves were given a
fitted as we can see here so always work in a well ventilated environment liberal application of cement and left overnight to dry
The upper rear deck is formed from two, quite complex mouldings that have long
join-lines. CA glue was used here instead of liquid cement, as it has better gap-filling
properties. The excess CA glue can be scraped and sanded down later
Dragon chose wisely to build up the engine deck from individual elements as
this approach offers better levels of detail for the multi-angled surfaces
AFV Edition 43
Part 2
GUARD RAIL
The full-width guard 'grille' that sits on the blade's top edge is an impressive
moulding but the vertical elements are a little too thick to look in scale, so, taking a
file and a No.11 scalpel blade, I laboriously thinned down each bar until it looked
a little more scale-like. Once this had been done, I added some damage! Apart
from photos of factory-fresh D9s, all images of the dozer show this grille in various
states of disrepair from mildly bent-up in places to twisted and buckled to the point
where you might wonder if it's of any further use. I chose the milder option, twisting
and distorting some of the elements using a pair of pliers, being careful not to crack
the delicate plastic moulding. Once all this detail work had been accomplished, I
applied a stippled-on coat of Mr Surfacer 1000 with a paint brush to impart a light
texture to the blade's surfaces, another time-consuming task...
PISTON CHANGES
The other change I made to the dozer was the way the blade mounts to the vehicle.
The instructions guide you to assemble the pistons onto the blade's pusher arms,
then fix each assembly to the blade, but this makes the process of cleaning up the
glue-seams on the pistons much trickier. Instead of this, I chose to drill out the pins at
each end of the pistons and build them up on their own, then make new piston pins
from styrene rod to be inserted once the pistons were ready. It might seem like a lot
of extra work to partially re-engineer the pivots, but it didn't take too long and made
the overall assembly of the D9R's main focal point a lot easier.
RUNNING GEAR
The running gear of the Meng's kit is quite simple in design, each bogie unit
building up from two halves between which the front and rear idler wheels are
trapped when the halves are brought together. The roadwheels (or rollers) are also
moulded in two halves and are if you want them to rotate once fitted, it's quite easy
to squeeze them into their locations with tweezers once the bogie halves are joined.
Be careful though, the rollers are prone to popping out again, so handle the bogies
with care until they are mated the model's main hull.
Quite a hefty join line is produced along the top of each unit and these
need attention before you fit them to the hull. I filled them by first flowing in
cyanoacrylate, filing/scraping down, then re-filling any remaining gaps with Mr
Surfacer – a very handy material.
The big drive sprockets fix to stub-axles that protrude from the sides of the D9's
body, and a quick test fit showed them to be quite wobbly. This was cured by
wrapping the polycaps that hold them in place with strips of Tamiya masking tape
which closed up the tolerance to the correct degree.
CABIN DEVELOPMENTS
I touched on the cabin's construction last time, filling the ejector-pin marks and
completing the unit's basic assembly. Meng offer the choice of tinted and untinted
window panes and as I am modelling the IDF version of the vehicle, I will be using
the tinted parts. This leaves a whole sprue of window parts as spares, but they will
not go to waste; I shall use them to blank off the cabin when it comes time to paint
the model, holding them in place with the windows' inner frames. That's the theory
at least, for now.. So, apologies for not completing this project but I shall endeavour
to push it forward for the next issue – let's see how far I get! •
DY BEAR...
MENG 1:35 D9R ARMOURED BULLDOZER KIT No.SS-002
Materials;
Injection-moulded sand-coloured, clear/tined and dark grey polystyrene, photo-etched brass, polycaps, vinyl tube,
waterslide decals
Available from;
www.hannants.co.uk
AFV Edition 45
The cabin builds up panel by panel and they fit together with impressive precision. There are some ejector-pin marks on the inner faces and these were filled with Holts Cataloy putty, available in the UK from the
Halfords chain of car-parts shops. The redundant clear window panes can be used to blank off the cabin interior while the exterior is painted
The cabin’s rear extension fits together extremely well and simply cements to the assembled central module
The cabin roof also has some ejector-pin marks which need filling, but it’s a relatively easy task. This too was built into a module complete with edge panels, and it simply pops onto the top of the cabin. If built with
care, the roof hatch can open and close which will be handy if fitting figures
AFV Edition 47
The edges and corners of the roof need some spots of filler to conceal the join lines, but much of the
excess seen here will be sanded away
Desert Eagle Publishing’s recent book on the D9R dozer provides some invaluable
references for the cabin interior, plus hundreds of other vital reference images
To this structure, the access platforms are fixed, as well as numerous hand-grips and other fittings The open door does give a good view into the driver’s compartment, which is very well detailed
Detail is moulded into the underside of the cabin roof although it will be hard to see once fixed in place The battery compartment is very well detailed with various louvres and grilles on its outer surface
The bogies are quite simple sub-assemblies, consisting of two halves, the peg and polycap for the blade pivot, two idlers and the rollers
The best way to assemble the bogies is to first mate the two halves with idlers in place and once the cement is dry, insert the road rollers using tweezers; this way, they can remain able to rotate
AFV Edition 49
A long join line is formed once the bogies halves are joined and this needs filling. CA (superglue) was first used to fill the joint, subsequently filed down. This was then given a coating of Mr Surfacer 1000 which helps to
seal any small gaps and provide a texture too
The D9’s massive blade is extremely well detailed and the parts fit
together well. The guard rail takes some time to clean up
Described in the main text, the piston bases were modified and fixed to
the blade first, the piston being fitted later on with plastic rod pins
Simulated weld seams were added where the guard rail mounts to the
upper edge of the dozer blade
Cyanoacrylate glue was used to build up welts where the piston bases and other items are fixed, to depict weld seams
Once in place, the guard rail was given some light ‘damage’ using
needle-nosed pliers as this part is often seen in a very beaten up
condition on real D9s
AFV Edition 51
To enable the dozer blade’s main side arms and its smaller pistons to be assembled and their joints filled and sanded easily, some slight modifications were made to the way they build up. The moulded-in pins were
trimmed/drilled out and the holes cleaned up and enlarge with files and broaches where necessary. Styrene rod was then cut into short lengths and pressed into place to act as new piston pins
A degree of ‘slop’ in the fit of the blade pistons and connectors is desirable as it will enable
the blade to fit to the dozer more easily
We’re getting there! With the blade temporarily fitted, the D9 dozer starts to look good. The patches of grey on the main
body is Gunze’s ‘Mr Surfacer 1000’ liquid filler, applied to conceal small gaps
The blade tilt piston on the right side arm builds up from two halves, so its join line will need light sanding. Resin bolt-heads from Calibre 35 were added to the main flange, above right
AFV Edition 53
T
he infamous 88mm ‘Flak’ gun must be the
most well known artillery piece of the Second
World War. Manufactured by Krupp and
Rheinmetall, the ‘88 entered full production
in the early 1930s and gained its first combat
experience during the Spanish Civil War. Sixteen
Flak 18 guns were initially sent to Spain in 1936,
in the anti-aircraft role with the Condor Legion,
where they were fired not only at aircraft but at
land targets too, proving its effectiveness as an anti-
tank weapon. With the onset of the Second World
War, the ‘88’ found itself deployed to all fronts,
again in both ground-to-air and ground-to-ground
roles, and quickly became a much feared weapon This control wheel has lost some of its Bakelite covering
by anyone whom encountered it.
‘Deadman’s Corner Museum’ (Centre
Historique des Parachutistes de Jour-J), just a
few hundred yards down the road from the
village of Saint-Côme-du-Mont in Normandy,
is home to a well preserved Flak 37, a later
variant of the ‘88’ that saw combat in the D-Day
campaign. In these photos we can see some
useful details of the gun, which will prove handy
for anyone building Dragon’s kits. •
paratrooper-museum.cominteractif.com
Google; Deadman’s Corner Museum.
Details of the recuperator cylinder’s back end where it meets the gun mount
AFV Edition 55
Crescent-shaped gun elevation control Possibly a hydraulic coupling, viewed from behind Electrical couplings using multi-pin sockets
The breech of this gun is jammed in the open position Electrical cables snake around the gun mount, details often left off models of the ‘88
A look into the gun cradle shows its internal structure and electrical conduit.
AFV Edition 57
Electrical cabling and boxes Inside the fuse-setters, do we see traces of wartime red-oxide primer?
Wort
£
24
h over
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DIORAMAS YOU
MUST BUILD
BEFORE YOU DIE...
CLEANING YOUR 90MM AA WITH THE ENEMY’S FLAG...
T
he American M1 90mm gun served as the US
Army’s main heavy anti-aircraft and anti-tank
gun, playing a role similar to the dreaded
German 88mm Flak guns. It served from just
prior to the opening of World War II into the post-
war period.
In this photograph we can see a US gun
crew cleaning the barrel of their gun with
the closest sheet of cloth to hand – a large
swastika flag! Both practical and triumphantly
irreverent, and neat idea for a vignette.