MADRID A Way of Life esmadrid.

com

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esmadrid.com

ISSN 2253-7902
02014
A Way of Life

9 772253 790502
MADRID
 Carpaccio Renoir Hopper
Vittore Carpaccio. Young Knight in a Landscape, 1510 (detail) Pierre-Auguste Renoir. Woman with a Parasol in a Garden, 1875 (detail) Edward Hopper. Hotel Room, 1931 (detail)

It’s bound
to be your
favourite
A stroll through the history of art museum!
Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 7pm. Please consult special opening times.

Paseo del Prado, 8. 28014 Madrid www.museothyssen.org

w w w.e s m a d r i d . co m

MADRID
HAS SO
MUCH... to offer visitors that which you can get Spain, who made languages in the
it is sometimes dif- to know them. the city the capital old city, transform-
ficult to condense it Sometimes these of the kingdom, with ing its districts to
all in just a few pag- faces complement all that implies. give free rein to
es. In this guide we each other, some- However, there are imagination and
have tried to cap- times they are other areas that are creativity, both in
ture the essence of different and some- also indispensable new venues such as
Madrid. You will find times they merge to understand the Matadero Madrid
information about but they all enable development of the and traditional dis-
its most famous you to get to know city over the years. tricts like Malasaña
spots and others the city. It is large They range from and Chueca.
which are less well but welcoming, with the Literary Quarter We would all like
known, but more room for all. to the Salamanca to think that when
than this the guide In the pages of this district, while we you finish looking
tries to show the guide you will find should not forget at this guide (also
city’s unique charac- the majestic side the city’s green available in an
ter, the peculiarities of Madrid, which spaces, which run online version at
of each district, the no traveller should from Casa de Cam- www.esmadrid.
charm of individual miss, whether it po to the newly ren- com), you will want
corners and how is their first visit ovated Madrid Río. to visit our city.
people in Madrid or they have been We bring you a I can assure you
breathe and feel. many times before. picture of a city that if you follow
Madrid is a city with Madrid’s history is that is constantly the suggestions
many faces and closely linked to renewing itself, you find here you
here we present that of the kings that knows how to will not be disap-
some of the ways in and queens of incorporate new pointed.

Mayor of Madrid

Ana Botella Serrano

3
 S U M M A RY

squares that and leisure for the

012 are steeped in whole family.
All the practical infor-
history. 116 casa de campo
mation you need about
74 sol Madrid’s green
tourism services in
Kilometre zero is a lung always has
Madrid.
symbol that moves surprises in store.
the city. This is the
019 epicentre of shop-
what’s on
With our calendar you
ping and Madrid’s A LT E R -
can enjoy Madrid every
night life. NAT I V E
80 gran vía / alcalá
day of the year. A great spectacle
MADRID
122 chueca
well worth seeing:
Chueca is open
029 famous monu-
to all, a district
Whatever your leisure ments, imposing
synonymous with
preferences, Madrid buildings, and two
diversity.
has plans for everyone. streets overflow-
128 malasaña
ing with life.
From traditional
88 la latina
to alternative,
AUTHEN- The district com-
its cultural life is
bines traditional
TIC style and historical
more vigorous
MADRID atmosphere with
than ever.
136 conde duque
46 art walk the latest trends
A district where
The Prado and the in tapas.
you can shop in
city’s other major
style and discover
museums can be
delightful gastro-
found in a boule- MADRID bars.
vard that is barely
a kilometre long.
UP 140 new spaces
54 recoletos CLOSE Matadero Madrid 88
96 literary quarter and La Casa
A walk among old
Apart from its Encendida have
mansions and
obvious cultural enriched Madrid’s
new trends. A dis-
connotations the cultural life.
trict for after work
area is known for 144 lavapiés /
drinks with class
fine food. embajadores
and shopping with
104 salamanca International fla-
style.
vours live side by
60 castellana The newly ren-
side with popular
Madrid’s financial ovated “Golden
traditions.
heartland is home Mile” of shopping
to great architec- has a fresh, vital
ture and sporting look. 150
glory. 110 madrid río To get around Madrid
66 hapsburg madrid The banks of the as you please during
Find out where Manzanares are your stay see our maps,
it all began, enjoying a splen- useful info and travel
in streets and did revival. Sport section. 110

4
 S TA F F

i f y o u wa n t m o r e i n f o r m at i o n a b o u t m a d r i d g o t o esmadrid.com
Published by:
Madrid Destino Cultura
Turismo y Negocio.
Municipal Department
for the Arts, Sports and
Tourism.
Madrid City Council

Produced by:
LA FACTORÍA.
Valentín Beato,
44 – 4ª planta.
28037 Madrid.
Tel: (+34) 915 386 118
Director of La Factoría
Virginia Lavín.
Assistant director
Javier Olivares León.
Project manager
Ángel L. Esteban.
Design
Rodríguez y Cano.
Texts
Txema Ybarra,
46 Francis Pachá, Javier
Sánchez, Prado Campos,
Pablo Cantó.
Print edition
Paola Pérez (Director),
Rosa García Villarrubia,
Ángel Manzano.
Photography: Luis Rubio,
Alfredo Arias, Adolfo
Callejo, Roberto Iván Cano,
Enrique Cidoncha, Jacobo
Medrano, Alberto Ortega,
CORDON PRESS, EL PAÍS,
Madrid Destino.
Illustrations
Alberto García.

Printing
Ribadeneyra.

Legal deposit:
M-48914-2011.
FRONT COVER PHOTO:
The information in this
Entrance to Plaza
edition may have changed
Mayor, Madrid. after publication.
© CORDON PRESS An updated version is
available from
www.esMADRID.com.

140 74

5
 MAP

136
CONDE
DUQUE

AUTHENTIC
MADRID

Art Walk
Recoletos
Castellana
Hapsburg
Madrid
Sol
Gran Vía and
Alcalá
La Latina

MADRID 116 066

HAPSBURG
UP CASA
DE MADRID
CLOSE CAMPO

Literary
quarter
Salamanca
Madrid Río
Casa de
Campo

110
A LT E R NA - MADRID
TIVE RÍO

MADRID

Chueca
Malasaña 140
Conde Duque NEW
S PA C E S
New
spaces
Lavapiés /
Embajadores

us e t h i s d i st r i ct gu i d e to f i n d t h e i n fo r m at i o n yo u wa n t

6
 060
CASTE-
LLANA

104
SALA-
MANCA

054
RECOLETOS
122
CHUECA

128
MALASAÑA

080
GRAN VÍA
/ ALCALÁ
074
SOL

046
ART
WA L K

088 096
LA LITERARY
L AT I NA QUARTER

144
L AV A P I É S /
EMBAJA-
DORES

Look for the district you’re interested in on the map, then go to the pages shown.

7
 SUMMARY

by activity

Welcome to Madrid
where there is
something for
everyone! Whether
you’re here for busi- green spaces food & drink shopping & leisure art & culture
ness or pleasure, 51 botanical gardens 30 food and drink 36 hipsters Check out 20 what’s on Twelve
with friends, family Come and see this Essential informa- the latest attrac- months of non-stop
or your partner, jewel on the same tion for lovers of tions. activity with some-
avenue as Madrid’s good food. thing for everyone.
you’ll find the city is
major museums. 58 trends Salesas is
open and welcom- 60 on business Cas- the district to go to 34 art Few cities have
ing, with top class 52 el retiro A green tellana is the ideal for all that is chic. such a wealth of art
cultural and gastro- oasis in the heart of meeting place for a as Madrid. Come
the city. If you need business lunch. 62 azca An area and see for yourself.
nomic attractions,
some fresh air, this where you can find
extensive green is the place for you. 66 cocido madrileño everything you 46 art walk From
spaces and pedes- Enjoy Madrid’s best need. Velázquez to Picasso.
trianised areas to 54 recoletos This known traditional See all of Madrid’s
long, tree-lined dish in the historical 83 preciados The area greatest museums in
enjoy walking, shop- boulevard contin- Hapsburg district. round Callao is one just over a kilometre.
ping or sport to the ues along Paseo del of the city’s busiest
full. By night and by Prado to Atocha. 79 san miguel The shopping centres. 60 castellana From
day Madrid always restored market the Canal Founda-
93 las vistillas La reflects the city’s 92 rastro Anything and tion to the Museum
has something to Latina also has enthusiasm for everything can be of Public Art.
surprise you. green spaces. fine food. bought and sold at
the traditional Sun- 66 centre Memories
110 madrid río The 89 tapas La Latina has day street market. of the Hapsburg dis-
transformation of a great tradition of trict, where the city
this site by the Man- delicious tapas to 105 boutiques Sala- was born, persist in
zanares into a pedes- enjoy with your drink. manca is the many places.
trian zone will take district to go to if
your breath away. 104 gourmet The Sala- you’re looking for 99 galleries Some of
manca district is prestige brands. the city’s most pres-
111 campo del moro famous for its fine tigious art galleries
The gardens sur- old bars, signature 123 fuencarral Fuen- are to be found in
rounding the Royal cuisine and delica- carral is one of the the Literary Quarter.
Palace are ideal for a tessens. city’s busiest shop-
romantic stroll. ping streets. 140 new spaces Mata-
144 exotic flavours dero Madrid and
116 casa de campo A trip In Lavapiés you 136 conde duque La Casa Encendida
to the country but can enjoy food Attractions for host some of the
only a stone’s throw from all parts of those who like a city’s most exciting
from the centre. the world. touch of elegance. new cultural events.

us e t h i s t h e m at i c s u m m a ry t o f i n d w h at yo u wa n t i n t h e gu i d e

8
 esmadrid.com

Information,
the full events
calendar,
addresses...
nightlife children If you want luxury lgbt
more information
38 romance 32 take your pick about Madrid 40 shopping Find out 42 lgbt Take your pick.
Experiences to
share for a roman-
Madrid always has
something to offer for
visit our about the many
exclusive shopping
In Madrid there
is something for
tic stay in Madrid. all tastes. website. opportunities in everybody.
Madrid.
73 flamenco Some 47 art The main muse- 82 musicals The bright
of the genre’s ums organise special 58 salesas Elegant lights outside the
leading artists activities for children. historical buildings theatres in Gran Vía
have performed provide a perfect are a show in them-
in the Hapsburg 52 the park The area setting for leading selves.
district. round the lake in the art galleries and
Retiro Park offers showrooms. 88 la latina Enjoy
75 new year See the endless scope for shopping and a drink
new year in at Puerta fun. 62 castellana Home with a difference any
del Sol, in traditional to some of Madrid’s day of the week.
style. 59 colón The Wax best known land-
Museum is one of marks, from Cuatro 100 style Go to the
86 rooftops New the most popular Torres to the major Literary Quarter’s
vantage points to museums in Madrid. cultural foundations. shops for the best
enjoy a beautiful design and interi-
sunset. 61 bernabéu The Real 84 viewing points or decoration.
Madrid tour even Dine with a view
102 live music takes you to the play- in the rooftop res- 122 chueca The district
At night the Lit- ers’ dressing rooms. taurants of Casino is synonymous with
erary Quarter is de Madrid, the diversity in Madrid.
home to the best 112 cycling Enjoy Thyssen-Bornemisza Enjoy its charms.
live music. Madrid Río on two Museum and vari-
wheels. ous luxury hotels. 131 triball Malasaña is
127 cocktail bars undergoing a trans-
Enjoy a drink in 118 thrills Visit the 105 golden mile The formation inside and
some of the city’s Zoo-Aquarium and area between out to welcome fa-
best known bars in the Amusement Ortega y Gasset milies of every kind.
Chueca. Park without leaving and Jorge Juan
Casa de Campo. contains numer- 144 lavapiés Known for
128 malasaña ous top interna- taking alternative
Rediscover the 147 circus There are tional fashion approaches, the
buzzing night life plenty of surprises firms, leading area is a fine exam-
of the 80s and 90s in store at the jewellers and art ple of harmonious
in Malasaña. Teatro Circo Price. auction rooms. coexistence.

Are you coming with children, as a couple, or on your own? See which pages to go to for the best plan.

9
 MADRID A Way of Life

Madrid, a Way of Life is also

available in an online version
for your PC or tablet, from
www.esmadrid.com. It includes
videos, photo galleries, and
other interactive content.

NOW ON
YOUR
TA B L E T
 T O U R I S T I N F O R M AT I O N O F F I C E S
Tel. (+34) 91 454 44 10 (Monday to Sunday, 9.30am to 8.30pm)
TOURISM
SERVICES
turismo@esmadrid.com
www.esmadrid.com

CENTROCENTRO,
LOCATED INSIDE
CIBELES PALACE,
BOASTS A TOURIST
INFORMATION
POINT SPECIALIS-
ING IN CULTURAL
ATTRACTIONS

download leaflets!
Do you need a map? Do you want to know what shows and exhibitions
you can see? If you’re going to spend a few days in our city remember
that there are tourist information offices and points offering a wealth of
resources to help you get around Madrid, book guided tours and obtain
discounts and other benefits.

Mayor. This modern Asian languages, a resources, free

centre located in range of accessible internet access,
Casa de la Panad- services (Spanish Wi-Fi, custom-
ería has everything sign language ised leaflets and
you need to know interpreters, 3D virtual maps.
about the capital’s maps, routes,
cultural and lei- induction loops, The Plaza Mayor
sure attractions. specially adapted Tourist Center is
PLAZA MAYOR The first stop for It offers specialist leaflets and coun- a sales point for
TOURIST CENTER tourists arriving in assistance, special ters), a self-service Official Guided
Plaza Mayor, 27 Madrid is the cen- service points pro- section and a Tours, the Madrid
Mon-Sun: tral tourist informa- viding information technological area City Tour and
9.30am-8.30pm tion office in Plaza in Russian and with audiovisual MadridCard.

12
COLÓN S AT E tourists visiting
TOURIST (FOREIGN Madrid personal-
CENTER TOURIST ised assistance in
Former under- CENTROCENTRO Other tourist A S S I S TA N C E the event of any
ground passage CIBELES information points: S E RV I C E ) situation requiring
(access via the side Cibeles Palace. - Plaza de Cibeles. Leganitos, 19. them to go to a
lane of Paseo de la Plaza de Cibeles On the boulevard Near Plaza de police station.
Castellana where it (no number). at the start of España. The service is pro-
meets Calle Goya). Tue-Sun: Paseo del Prado. Incidents Tel.: vided by specialist
Mon-Sun: 10am-8pm. Closed - Plaza de Callao. 902 10 21 12 staff. Tourists
9.30am-8.30pm Mondays. Being refurbished. Mon-Sun: 9am-mid- are given help
Located near Paseo Times subject to - The Art Walk night (365 days a with reporting
de Recoletos it offers change. On Calle Santa Isa- year) the incident and
face-to-face and Tourist information bel, next to the Reina satemadrid@esma- completing any
specialist assistance, point with a pre- Sofía Museum. drid.com paperwork related
self-service consul- dominantly cultur- - Adolfo Suárez SATE offers foreign to their situation.
tation, a technologi- al focus located in Madrid-Barajas
cal area (audiovisual a centre which is Airport. Terminal 2
resources, free in itself a space for (arrivals, between
internet access and collective reflec- halls 5 and 6)
Wi-Fi) and the Learn tion on contempo- and Terminal 4 (arriv-
Spanish information rary urban life and als, halls 10 and 11).
point for students of culture. Visitors Mon-Sun: 9am-8pm
Spanish who want to will find everything - Mobile tourist infor-
spend some time in they need for mation unit Watch
Madrid. the Art Walk. out for it in the city!

OFFICIAL find out how and who will reveal all the TICKET SALES
GUIDED when the Royal Pal- city’s secrets to you. Plaza Mayor Tourist
TOURS ace was built, and You can choose Center
Would you like to much more. The best from nine languages: Plaza Mayor, 27
discover Madrid in option is to enjoy Spanish, English, Mon-Sun:
a different way? See one of the 40 weekly French, Italian, Ger- 9.30am-8.30pm For more information
where Cervantes tours organised by man, Portuguese, Tel. 902 876 8 70 on tour programme and
lived, uncover the Madrid Destino every Dutch, Russian and www.entradas.com fees, visit:
hidden corners of day of the year, led by Japanese. Why not Bankia ATM www.esmadrid.com/
Hapsburg Madrid, professional guides sign up? network visitasguiadasoficiales

13
 TOURISM
SERVICES

esMADRIDmagazine restaurants, shops,

A free monthly etc.) and a calendar
publication in of events taking
Spanish and Eng- place in Madrid,
lish, featuring the including exhi-
highlights from the bitions, theatre,
month’s cultural sport, trade fairs
and leisure calen- and much more.
dar plus in-depth Networking
reports on Madrid’s Bloggin’ Madrid Do you want to
permanent enter- Type www.bloggin know which show
tainment options. madrid.com in your you shouldn’t miss?
You can pick up browser’s address What are Madrid’s
a copy at any of bar and your most famous dish-
the city’s tourist screen will become es? When did the
centres and infor- the best guide to Prado Museum
mation points. It is the city. open? Via social
also available for Use Bloggin’ to networks we provide
download from: learn the secrets up-to-date informa-
www.esmadrid.com/ of the city’s inhab- tion on everything of
esmadridmagazine itants, with posts interest to tourists
written by journal- in Madrid, from
www.esmadrid.com ists and leading the main monu-
Website packed figures in Madrid’s ments and places
with everything social and cultural of interest to the
you need to know life about art, gas- highlights in our list-
about the city’s tronomy, shopping, ings of exhibitions,
cultural and leisure sport, family-friend- concerts, plays,
activities. This ly activities, LGBT musicals and sports
essential guide tourism, tours of events.
offers detailed historical interest, Follow us on:
information on ser- shows and count- www.facebook.com/
vices, monuments, less other subjects. MadridCiudad
museums and It includes the And on Twitter:
other must-visit Madrid in Photos @Visita_Madrid
places, plus a com- section, where
prehensive data- users can share Mobile app
base of resources their photographs Madrid has its own
for tourists (hotels, of the city. Official Guide, an

14
app which is avail- MADRID
able for iPhone and CITY TOUR
Android, offering Tel. 902 02 47 58 (24h)
everything you March-October:
need to enjoy the 9am to 10pm
city to the full. November-February:
This new tool is 10am to 6pm. in 14 languages Palace, La Almud- which follows Paseo
available in four Ticket sales: (Spanish, English, ena Cathedral and de la Castellana,
languages - Span- Plaza Mayor Tourist French, German, Puerta del Sol. The allowing visitors to
ish, English, French Center, on the bus Italian, Portu- final stretch rejoins see Marqués de
and German - itself and from www. guese, Russian, Paseo del Prado Salamanca Palace,
and, unlike most madridcitytour.es Japanese, Dutch, and takes you to Nuevos Ministerios,
mobile guides to Madrid City Tour Chinese, Arabic, the Botanical the AZCA shopping
other destina- is one of the sim- Catalan, Basque Gardens and the centre and the
tions, boasts the plest and most and Galician). Reina Sofía and Santiago Bernabéu
advantage of not comfortable ways Thyssen-Borne- stadium. The bus
needing a data to see the city. You Route One misza museums. also enters the
connection: only only need to buy a Calle Felipe IV, next The extended ver- Salamanca district,
an initial download ticket, hop on the to the Prado Muse- sion of this route, with its designer
is necessary. It’s a bus, put your ear- um, is the starting which runs twice boutiques and the
one-stop-shop for phones on to listen point for this route a day, also takes Lázaro Galdiano
preparing a trip to to the audio guide, that takes you to in Madrid Río and Museum. Finally
Madrid, with geolo- and get ready to Puerta de Alcalá, the Moncloa area. the route takes
calised information enjoy the streets, followed by the in Puerta del Sol
about over 600 monuments and Prado-Recoletos Route Two and Plaza de las
points of interest, points of interest, artery, taking you The second Madrid Cortes, before
official guided hopping off the past the Neptu- City Tour also arriving at Plaza de
tours, audio guides, bus wherever you no and Cibeles begins near the Neptuno, the last
routes for tourists feel like it. Tickets fountains before Prado Museum stop. The extend-
and a complete are valid for one or continuing up Gran but runs along the ed version of this
calendar of events. two days, allowing Vía. The bus travels city’s main arteries, route, which also
With this informa- you to travel on as far as Plaza de Castellana, Prado runs twice a day,
tion, visitors can Route One, Route España and then, and Recoletos, takes visitors to the
work out their own Two or both, get- after passing the and through neigh- Cuatro Torres Busi-
customised plan ting on and off the Temple of Debod, bouring streets. ness Area, with
for a visit to the bus as often as takes you to the Cibeles Palace is the city’s tallest
city and check the you like. Madrid city’s old quarter, one of the most buildings, before
details where and City Tour audio where you’ll dis- spectacular build- returning via Las
when they like. guides are available cover the Royal ings on this route, Ventas bullring.

15
 2014 CALENDAR
FAIRS AND CONGRESSES

JANUARY APRIL 12-14 MOMAD METRÓPOLIS

International Fashion Trade Show
22-26 FITUR 04-06 EXPOÓPTICA 19-21 UNIBIKE
International Tourism Trade Fair International Optics and Optometry Exhibition The Bicycle Fair
PENDING MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK MADRID
DATE
29-31 PROMOGIFT 09-10 eCOMExpo
International Promotional Gift Trade Fair The Future of ecommerce
09-10 OMExpo OCTOBER
The Future of Digital Marketing
FEBRUARY 23-24 Congreso y Esposición @asLAN.2014: 02-05 PUERICULTURA MADRID
“Cloud&Network Future” Childhood Products Trade Show
05-09 GIFTRENDS MADRID 24-26 EXPOFRANQUICIA
International Gift & Decoration, Jewellery 07-09 MRO AVIATION WEEK EUROPE
International Franchising Trade Fair
and Fashion Jewellery Week 13-15 INTERNATIONAL NO-DIG MADRID
05-09 INTERGIFT 15-17 SICUR LATINOAMÉRICA
International Gift & Decoration Fair MAY International Exhibition of Equipment, Products,
06-09 IBERJOYA Technologies and Services for Comprehensive Safety
International Jewellery, Silverware, 06-08 GENERA SANTIAGO DE CHILE
Watch and Auxiliary Industries Exhibition Energy and Environment International Trade Fair 15-17 FRUIT ATTRACTION
06-09 BISUTEX 07-10 INTERNATIONAL WEEK FOR EFFICIENT International Trade Show for the Fruit and Vegetable
International Fashion Jewellery and Accessories
CONSTRUCTION AND RENOVATION Industry
Trade Fair SCS 16-18 SIMO EDUCACIÓN
Sustainable Construction Solutions International Show Learning technology Exhibition
14-16 MOMAD METRÓPOLIS
International Fashion Trade Show VETECO 16-19 MADRID GAMES WEEK
International Window, Curtain Walls and Structural The great Videogames Fair
14-18 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK MADRID Glass Trade Show 17-19 SALÓN LOOK INTERNACIONAL
18-20 INSURANCE WEEK. XXI EDITION 09-11 NATURIVA THE SUMMERFESTIVAL The Image and Integral Aesthetics Exhibition
The Insurance Meeting Point The Sports & Nature Activities Festival
24-26 MOMAD 1001BODAS
19-23 ARCOmadrid 20-22 BIT BROADCAST Exhibition of Products and Services for Celebrations
International Contemporary Art Fair International Audio-Visual Technology Trade Show
28-31 FIAA
19-23 AULA 20-25 MADRID AUTO SHOW International Bus and Coach Trade Fair
International Educational Opportunities Exhibition 24-25 100 × 100 MASCOTA 28-31 MATELEC
20-22 FORO DE POSTGRADO Madrid Pet Fair International Trade Fair for the Electrical and Electronics
The Higher Education Studies International Fair 29-01 SIMA Industry
25-28 SICUR JUNE
Madrid International Real Estate Exhibition 29-30 MetalMadrid
Internacional Security, Safety and Fire Exhibition 30-01 The 1st PADDLE FAIR Madrid Industrial Fair
27-02 CINEGÉTICA JUNE
The best Paddle Fair in the world
MARCH
Spain’s Hunting and Fishing Show NOVEMBER
JUNE
05-06 EMPACK
MARCH 04-05 EXPO FOODSERVICE Packaging Trade Show
04-06 WORLD ATM CONGRESS Foodservice, Restaurant and Hospitality Industries 05-06 LOGISTICS MADRID
Professional Event 11st Edition. All ingredients The Storage, Handling and Logistic Show
10-13 SALÓN DE GOURMETS for a good restaurant Business 12-13 JOB FAIR FOR HANDICAPPED PEOPLE
International Fine, Food and Beverage Fair 11-13 EsClean 13-16 BIOCULTURA
13-15 EXPODENTAL Hygiene & Cleaning Trade Show Organic Products Fair and Responsible Consumption
International Dental Equipment, Supplies and Services 11-13 TECMA
Show 14-16 NATURIVA THE WINTERFESTIVAL
International Town Planning and Environment Trade Fair The Sports & Nature Activities Show
13-15 PROPET 11-13 SRR
Pet Industry Trade Fair 15-16 BEBÉS Y MAMÁS
Recycling and Recovery International Trade Fair The Baby, New and Expectant Mothers Exhibition
20-23 MADRID GOLF 13-22 SECOND-HAND VEHICLE SHOW
International Golf Show 15-23 FERIARTE
26-29 MULAFEST Art and Antiques Fair
20-23 PÁDEL PRO SHOW Urban Life & Arts Festival
Paddle Industry Trade Fair 20-21 ORTO MEDICAL CARE
Trade Fair for Orthopaedics, Technical Aids, Professional
25-27 FER-INTERAZAR
International Gaming and Gambling Trade Show SEPTEMBER Services for the Elderly
29-30 ¡TAXI!
25-27 INFARMA Madrid 10-14 GIFTRENDS MADRID Taxi Fair
European Pharmaceutical and Parapharmaceutical International Gift & Decoration, Jewellery and Fashion
Congress and Trade Exhibition Jewellery Week DECEMBER
25-27 MATELEC EIBT CHINA INTERGIFT
Electrical and Intelligent Building Technology Exhibition International Gift & Decoration Fair 04-08 DABADUM
SHANGHAI IBERJOYA Kids and Family Fun Expo
26-27 WORLD OLIVE OIL EXHIBITION International Jewellery, Silverware, Watch and Auxiliary 10-14 ALMONEDA Navidad
The International Meeting for Large Volumes of Industries Exhibition Antiques, Art Galleries and Collectors Fair
Olive Oil BISUTEX
29-06 ALMONEDA International Fashion Jewellery and Accessories Trade
APRIL
Antiques, Art Galleries and Collectors Fair Fair

IFEMA CALL CENTER

CALLS FROM SPAIN
INFOIFEMA 902 22 15 15
INTERNATIONAL CALLS (34) 91 722 30 00
Trade fair organised by IFEMA FAX (34) 91 722 58 01
This calendar is subject to possible modifications.
Internacional event certified IFEMA Feria de Madrid
Calendar updated 2/24/2014 by UFI (The Global Association Avd. del Partenón, 5
28042 Madrid
Confirm dates with IFEMA CALL CENTER of the Exhibition Industry) Spain
or at www.ifema.es IFEMA International lineaifema@ifema.es
 TOURISM
SERVICES

MADRID (no queuing) to

CARD the Prado, Reina
The essential Sofía and Thys-
sightseeing pass sen-Bornemisza
for visitors to museums, the
Madrid includes Royal Palace, the
entry to over 50 Bernabéu Tour and
museums plus the Wax Museum.
amazing dis- Depending on the
counts in shops fee you choose to
and restaurants. pay, MadridCard
You also get pri- can be used for 24,
ority admission 48, 72 or 120 hours.

POINTS
OF SALE
Plaza Mayor Tourist Teatro Real opera
Center. house. Calle Carlos III,
Plaza Mayor, 27 1 (by Plaza de Isabel II).
Monday to Sunday, Monday to Friday,
9.30am to 8.30pm 10.15am to 10pm.
Saturday and Sunday,
Adolfo Suárez 10am to 3pm and 4pm
Madrid-Barajas to 9pm.
Airport.
Terminal 2 (arrivals, Atocha Station.
entrance to the Glorieta de Carlos
Metro station) and V. High-speed train
Terminal 4 departures area,
(entrance to the ground floor.
Metro station). Monday to Sunday,
Monday to Saturday, 8.30am to 1.30pm and
8.30am to 8.30pm. 2.30pm to 4.30pm.
Sunday,
8.30am to 4.30pm Online
(reduced price):
www.madridcard.com

17
 www.madridcitytour.es

Hop on Madrid’s open-top bus

Fitted with air conditioning and recorded
commentaries in 14 languages, including
special versions for children, our double
decker buses with sliding roofs are the best
way
way to discover the city.
WIFI
zone

TICKET SALES & INFORMATION:

The MCT information centre on Calle Felipe IV (next to the Prado Museum); Juliá Travel on Plaza de España, 7;
the Madrid City Tour buses; and at www.madridcitytour.es

14 LANGUAGES. INDIVIDUAL HEADPHONES.

W H AT ’ S O N
PA G E S
20-27

Join in!

“Enjoy Madrid all

year round. The spring
colours, summer nights,
the intense autumn
cultural calendar and
MA>h:OHNKLMA:M
winter brings.”

19
 W H AT ’ S O N

JA N UA RY

S A L E S (02)
In Madrid the sale
season starts offi-
cially on 7 January.
Time to hit the
shops! After the
Christmas holiday
period, the capital’s
shops offer sub-
stantial discounts
on most products
in the sales.

GASTRO-
F E S T I VA L (01)
At the end of the
month gastrono- 01
my is the centre
of attention in gastronomy FITUR
Madrid, with all Madrid’s Interna-
kinds of activi- During Gastro- tional Tourism Trade
ties in museums, festival, as well Fair, the country’s
cultural centres, as gastronomic leading tourism
galleries and other routes and tast- event, will be taking
establishments ing sessions, place at Feria de
in the sector. other interesting Madrid. Over 9,500
At the same time activities such exhibitors from 165
the world’s lead-
as workshops countries will be
ing chefs will be
and exhibi- showing new prod-
attending the ucts to profession-
Madrid Fusión
tions are held. als and members of
congress. 02 the public.

20
 F E B RUA RY

MERCEDES- ARCOMADRID
B E N Z FASHION (01)
WEEK This is the most
Formerly Pasarela important con-
Cibeles, this major temporary art fair
event continues to in Spain. It is a
be the main plat- great opportunity
form for promoting to track the latest
fashion in Spain trends in the world
and showcasing art scene and to
new talent. enjoy new creative
It is also held in work. Art Madrid
the month of Sep- and JustMad take
tember at Feria de place at the same
Madrid. time. 01

ALMONEDA
(02)
Each year, lovers
MARCH of history, art and
antiques look
forward to this
important date in
Almoneda.
The fair, which is
held annually at
Feria de Madrid,
brings together art
galleries, antiquari-
ans and publishing
and service com-
panies from all over
Spain and abroad,
who display a total
of more than 25,000
unique genuine
objects at affordable
02 prices.

21
 W H AT ’ S O N

APRIL

01

03

M AY

02

E A S T E R (01) lar athletics event B O O K FA I R

In spring Madrid takes place on Until mid-June the
marks Easter with the the last Sunday in literary world takes
famous traditional April, together with over the Retiro 04
fraternity processions the half marathon, Park: the Paseo de
with cornets and following a route Coches is full of May and on this day M U T UA
drums going through that takes in many booksellers’ and the city participates MADRID
the streets and with of the city’s land- publishers’ stands in one of its most O P E N (03)
cycles of religious marks. with the year’s latest authentic traditions: The Caja Mágica
music performed in The Mapoma mar- publications. There the procession to the hosts one of the
churches such as athon is listed as are also talks by banks of the Man- world’s top tennis
Nuestra Señora de a Silver Road Race hundreds of writers, zanares, where the tournaments,
Atocha basilica and by the Interna- who will be signing city’s residents show featuring some of
Nuestra Señora del tional Association their books. off their chulapo the sport’s leading
Perpetuo Socorro. of Athletics Fed- costumes. For the players. Previous
erations. A great SAN ISIDRO (04) best part of a month winners include
MADRID sporting festival The feast of San there are numerous Rafa Nadal and
ROCK & ROLL with live music Isidro, the patron bullfighting events Serena Williams. An
MARATHON (02) as an additional saint of Madrid, is and, around May 15, event no tennis fan
Madrid’s top popu- attraction. celebrated on 15 concerts and plays. should miss.

22
 JUNE

PHOTOESPAÑA
(01)
Each year the
international fes-
tival of visual arts
features the work
of photographers
and visual artists
from all parts of the
world, both new
and established, 01
who exhibit their
work in the capi- so that everyone global programme
tal’s museums and can enjoy this
galleries. Parallel special day. During
programmes of PhotoEspaña
activities are also SUMA nearly 100 exhi-
organised for pro- FLAMENCA bitions feature
fessionals and the The stages of this work by over
public. old-established 300 artists
The event con- festival have seen from different 02
tinues for over a performances by
parts of the
M U L A F E S T (02)
month. leading flamenco
world. has established
singers, dancers Tattoos, motor itself as one of
DÍA DE and musicians, cycling, skate- the most important
LA MÚSICA plus new talents boards, graffiti, in the world for
On 21 June, Euro- and future stars street art, dancing those interested
pean Music Day, of the genre. With and basketball are in everything
Madrid hosts a the Teatros de all to be found at modern. Artists
multitude of con- Canal as the main Mulafest, Madrid’s will be display-
certs in different venue, it takes urban trend fes- ing their skills at
styles and genres place in mid-June. tival. This event Feria de Madrid.

23
 W H AT ’ S O N J U LY

G AY P R I D E
F E S T I V A L (01)
Although Inter-
national Gay
Pride Day takes
place on 28 June
Madrid’s Gay Pride
Festival contin-
ues into July.
The colourful
parades are the
high point of the
event, continu-
ing for nearly a
week and bring-
ing together
some two million
people from all
over the world.

VERANOS
DE LA
VILLA
The Veranos de la
Villa cultural festi-
val fills Madrid with
open air theatre,
music and cinema
in the summer
season.
During the festival
leading interna-
tional performers
can be seen live in
Madrid. Moreover,
Fescinal offers
open-air cinema by
night from June to
September. 01

24
 AU GUST

L AVA P I É S cinema. After the

F E S T I V A L (02) festivities for Saint
Traditions from Spain Cajetan (August 7)
and abroad meet and Saint Lawrence
each year on 10 (August 10), Madrid
August, Saint holds another major
Lawrence’s Day, in celebration: La Ver-
Lavapiés, when this bena de la Paloma,
highly multicultural in the heart of the
district celebrates La Latina district,
the festival by com- where there are
bining a traditional contests for Manila
mass and proces- silk shawls, decorat-
sion with open-air ing balconies and
concerts and dancing the chotis. 02

VOGUE Salamanca and our and music,

fashion
FASHION’S Fuencarral, host photography ses-
NIGHT OUT (03) The Vogue Fash- the Vogue Fash- sions for anyone
SEPTEMBER In mid-Septem- ion’s Night Out ion’s Night Out, who dares to face
ber Madrid’s two marks the start an international the camera, and
major fashion and of the autumn event combining appearances by
shopping areas, fashion season. shopping, glam- many celebrities.
DCODE
FEST
Based in Ciudad
Universitaria,
DCode Fest is the
highlight of the
national music
festival season.
Famous artists
such as Franz Fer-
dinand, Vampire
Weekend, Justice
and The Killers
have appeared
at the event. 03

25
 W H AT ’ S O N NOVEMBER

multimedia 7 October, World

Architecture Day.
Estampa is an E S TA M PA (01)
OCTOBER essential date for The walls of Nave
lovers of pho- 16 at Matadero
tography, prints, Madrid are filled
digital art and with art during
ARCHITECTURE artists’ books. Estampa, the cap-
WEEK ital’s prestigious 02
The event aims to multiple art fair. In
bring the world of it graphic art, art-
construction and ists’ books, design,
town planning as photography and
cultural corner- drawing are on dis-
stones to a wider play for the benefit
public. The event’s of collectors and
epicentre is always the general public.

03

MADRID EN F E R I A R T E (03)
DA N Z A Feriarte has
F E S T I VA L (02) become a key event
For three weeks for lovers of art and
in November antiques and there
Madrid en Danza, are many of them
the international in a country with
dance festival, such a rich history
brings together as Spain.
classical dance It attracts a mul-
and the latest titude of visitors,
trends from all who purchase
over the world. A thousands of items,
chance for making it a major
spectators to commercial, social
enjoy new and and cultural event.
established styles It takes place in
01 of dance. Feria de Madrid.

26
 DECEMBER
CHRISTMAS +
NEW YEAR (01)
Christmas in Madrid
is full of magic
moments. Go to the
Christmas market
in Plaza Mayor to
buy Christmas
decorations and
Nativity figures;
see the new year in
at Puerta del Sol,
where it is traditional
to eat 12 grapes
as the clock in the
square strikes 12.
On 5 January the
Three Kings’ Cav-
alcade goes down
the Castellana
as far as Cibeles.
Children can enjoy
seeing the Kings
before they receive
their presents.
SAN
SILVESTRE
VALLECANA (02)
What better way to
end the year than
going for a run? The 02
01
new year’s eve San Silvestre Val-
lecana is a double
On the last event that dates
day of the year back over 50 years.
hundreds of The international
people gather race is for profes-
under the clock sional athletes. In
in Puerta del Sol the popular event
to celebrate the young and old alike
start of a new (wearing fancy
year. dress if they want
to) see the year out
running. The race is
on the evening of 31
December, starting
by the Santiago
Bernabéu stadi-
um and finishing
near the Vallecas
ground.
27
Más de 40
visitas guiadas
semanales.
Infórmate en el Centro de Turismo
Plaza Mayor.
esmadrid.com/visitasguiadasoficiales

Over 40
guided tours
every week.
Find out more at the Plaza Mayor
Tourist Center.
esmadrid.com/officialguidedtours
PLANS
PA G E S
30-43

take your pick!

“Madrid has plans for

everyone. Whether you come
as a couple, with friends
or as a family, to shop,
enjoy art or simply have a
good time, you’re sure to
gG=HG>RHNEBD> s
29
 PLANS

Dishes
with history
We suggest you
GOURMET
head down to the
area round Plaza
Mayor on an empty
stomach, so that
With plans that you can sample
cater for all budg- local specialities in
ets, Madrid is a restaurants with a COUNTLESS
city where you can rich history. Enjoy RESTAURANTS
indulge in the Span- cocido madrileño HAVE SURPRISES
IN STORE FOR
ish art of tapas, cre- (chickpea stew) at DINERS EATING
ative gourmet food, Lhardy, (01) or some AT THE BAR OR
or even a Michelin tasty tripe with TABLESIDE
dining experience. fried eggs and ham.
From a simple plate
of patatas bravas to Tapas old and new
cocido madrileño La Latina district
with an Asian twist, is famous for tradi- ace are well worth destination among internationally
hundreds of restau- tional tapas which a visit when it’s lovers of good renowned bars,
rants have surprises feature croquettes, time for coffee. food, though San including Chicote,
in store for diners mussels and squid. Antón in Chueca Cock, Del Diego
eating at the bar Those who prefer Temples is also a feast for and Dry Cosmo-
or sitting down for a more modern of fine food the eyes and the politan by Javier
a meal. There are approach can also The capital boasts discerning palate. de las Muelas.
plenty of tempting find deconstruct- a range of ven- Gourmet Experi-
options to whet your ed versions and ues where you ence at El Corte Al
appetite. original creations can savour the Inglés in Plaza fresco
by local chefs. delights of Iberian de Callao is Dining at an out-
ham, olive oil and another favourite door café is one of
Gourmet hotels Spanish cheeses. with foodies. the many pleasures
Some of Madrid’s Or why not take Madrid’s climate
finest restaurants, some home? Shaken, has to offer.In
such as Santceloni, not stirred addition to Plaza
are hidden away Markets Anyone can enjoy Mayor, La Latina,
in five-star hotels. San Miguel market, a fine Dry Martini Malasaña and
Classics like the next to Plaza May- or Bloody Mary at Conde Duque are
Ritz and the Pal- or (02), is the top some of the city’s home to dozens of

30
 01

new spaces bars and restau-

rants where you
This delectable can have a drink
Madrid has two and some tapas
h:OHNKLMK:=B- under the sun.
tional markets
:G=<>GMNKRHE= Aim for
K>LM:NK:GMLIENL the stars
:GNF;>KH? Madrid boasts
modern gastrono- several Michelin
FB<O>GN>L starred estab-
lishments. The
good food most outstanding,
DiverXo, founded
by young chef
David Muñoz, is
the capital’s first
Michelin three-
star restaurant for
02 nearly 20 years.

31
 PLANS

Hold on tight!
Feel the rush of
adrenaline as you
CHILDREN
spin round. At the
Parque de Atrac-
ciones amusement
park (01) and
Madrid is full of sur- Warner Bros Park
prises, with lots of you can experience
attractions, games crazy loops and
and fun experiences free-fall drops. But
for the little ones take it easy, too:
to enjoy. They can have a laugh with
shout, touch things friends, take part in
and be amazed by interactive games
what they see. and hang out with
The kids can just the animals.
be themselves and
their parents can Wildlife in Madrid
have a good time, At the Zoo-Aquar-
too. Whether choos- ium children can
ing an old favourite see and hear wild
or something new, animals from the
there will be some- jungle and other
thing special hidden remote corners of
in it for them. The the planet. Faunia
city welcomes them has recreated eco-
with open arms. systems as diverse
as the polar regions
and the mangroves,
home to the croc- MANY OF
odiles. THE CITY’S
MUSEUMS
OFFER A
Palacio de Hielo SPECIAL
The first attempt PROGRAMME
at skating normally FOR CHILDREN
comes with a fall.
But keep at it: you’ll
soon be gliding

32
 02

elegantly across 0 gives you the Children’s theatre

the ice! chance to go under- At the puppet
ground and travel theatre in El Retiro
Sporting stars through time to an Park (02) children
The Santiago Bern- old Metro station. roar with laughter
abéu and Vicente watching the antics
Calderón stadiums Art for children of the different
organise tours Many of the city’s characters. Gran Vía
for you to learn art centres offer a presents musicals
about the players special programme written specially for
who have graced for children with a kids, which are sure
these pitches. wide range of activ- to enchant them.
Rally champion ities. Alternative theatre
Carlos Sainz has They include the features special
created a spec- Reina Sofía Muse- programmes for
tacular go-karting um and La Casa families, like those
circuit where you Encendida. offered Microteatro
can enjoy the thrills por Dinero and
of motor racing. all the fun of the fair Teatro Alfil.

A touch of mystery At the Science can be fun

The rooms in Casa Amusement The Museum of
de América are Park children Natural Science
full of legends; the can participate and the Planetari-
inside of Linares in interactive um offer a hands-
Palace is well worth games and on experience to
a visit. The Wax entertaining discover many
Museum displays shows through- curious facts about
famous figures past out the year. science. And at
and present, from Imax you can enjoy
actors to sporting amusement the total cinema
01 stars, while Andén pa r k experience.

33
 PLANS

ART

Madrid is one of
MADRID IS HOME
the world’s leading TO SEVERAL
cultural centres. INTERNATIONALLY
Known for its inter- RENOWNED MUSEUMS
AND MANY PRIVATE
nationally famous GALLERIES AND
museums with MULTIDISCIPLINARY
their collections of CENTRES
historical master-
pieces, the city also
boasts other smaller
locations which are
just as interesting. Old masters
Visitors can see The Prado Museum
work ranging from specialises in the
prehistoric art to the Spanish, Italian and
latest avant-garde Flemish schools,
creations, displayed with over 4,900
in venues which paintings by artists
include adventurous of the stature of
private galleries and Velázquez, Goya,
multidisciplinary Hieronymus Bosch
centres with innova- and Titian. It is
tive approaches. complemented per-
fectly by the Thys-
sen-Bornemisza
Museum, home to
one of the best col-
lections of Europe-
an art in the world,
particularly strong
in early 20th-centu-
ry avant-garde work. 02

34
 at the Museum of
Public Art, which
include Chillida’s
ethereal Sirena
Varada.

Hidden treasures
In Madrid you can
find unique, highly
original museums.
They include the
former home of
painter Joaquín
Sorolla, the Royal
Tapestry Facto-
ry, the Garment
01 Museum, the ABC
Museum, devoted
A contemporary Passion for are the capital’s to drawing and
modern art
vision collecting most vital cul- illustration, the
The Reina Sofía
The city’s There is no better tural centres, Cerralbo Muse-
with a diversified,
leading
Museum (02) is way to feel the um and the José
Spain’s flagship pulse of contempo- decentralised Lázaro Galdiano
centre for modern
contemporary art rary art than to visit approach. They are Foundation.
art. But it is not
museum owns the city’s galleries. as likely to stage
the only one. over 20,000 To see them all, ground-breaking Eyes on
Ambitious exhibi- pieces, including don’t miss the Arco drama as they are the world
tions are also held Pablo Picasso’s fair in February. to organise music Events at Casa Asia
in the CaixaForum ‘Guernica’. Juana de Aizpuru, festivals. and Casa de Améri-
building, which in Salesas, and Hel- ca explore cultural
is only a stone’s reina sofía ga de Alvear, near Open air developments in
throw from the the Reina Sofía, Madrid is home to the two continents.
museum, and at are at the forefront two artistic treas- CentroCentro, in
various private in this sector. ures from very dif- Cibeles Palace, and
institutions in the ferent periods: the the Canal Art Exhi-
city such as the Alternative venues Temple of Debod, bition Centre (01),
Mapfre, Telefónica Matadero Madrid, brought stone by in Plaza de Castilla,
and Juan March La Casa Encendida stone from Egypt, feature a wide varie-
foundations. and La Tabacalera and the sculptures ty of currents in art.

35
 PLANS

‘HIPSTER’
IN RECENT
YEARS A YOUNG,
RESTLESS PUBLIC
HAS CREATED
In the shadow of AN ALTERNATIVE
WAY OF ENJOYING
the great names THE CITY
of Madrid’s life and
culture, such as the
Gran Vía and the
Prado Museum, are
a series of under-
ground activities
aimed at a young,
restless public.
In recent years
Madrid’s new gener-
ation has created a
fresh, alternative way
of experiencing the
city and it is easy to
join in. Imagination
and creativity reign.

36
 Evenings
with Wi-Fi
Between 5 and
7pm the Mala-
saña and Conde
Duque districts
(01) are packed 02
with young people
who flock to the of Triball and Mala- Alternative Vermouth and
charming cafés, saña are brimming shopping after-work drinks
which sell home- with city cyclists Triball and Conde Hipsters have
made sweets and and modern, Duque are the epi- rediscovered the
cakes. They can bike-friendly cafés centres of a new tradition of having
sit back and surf and restaurants way of understand- an aperitif with
the web, planning which allow cus- ing fashion out- vermouth, either in
their next stop. tomers to come in side mainstream the all-time popular
with their bicycles. trends. Boutiques haunts of Cham-
Urban sport run by young local berí and Malasaña
at Madrid Río Alternative designers stand or in new bars with
The spectacular culture side by side with revolutionary styl-
park on the banks Although cultural stores selling ing. In the evening,
of the Manzanares centres like exclusive brands after-work drinks
has separate Matadero and to their select are a firm favourite,
areas for skaters Conde Duque are clientele. especially when
and skateboard- the best known combined with a
ers and a circuit venues staging signature tapa.
unique venues
for BMX biking: alternative cul-
the Skatepark. tural activities,
For a taste Small venues,
Although cyclists the resurgence of Madrid’s big bands
predominate at in such events is underground Malasaña and Cen-
weekends, the area also attributable culture check out tro house nearly a
is open every day to small galleries Matadero, Casa dozen small-capac-
from 10am to 11pm. and multispace Encendida (02) ity concert halls
centres devoted and La where audiences
Cycling to art, where you Tabacalera. can discover
in the centre can attend a book emerging Spanish
Madrid has fallen presentation while indie talent. A
in love with the drinking a glass of a lt e r nat i v e delight for discern-
01 bicycle. The streets Rioja. cu lt u r e ing music lovers.

37
 PLANS

ical Gardens: the the bars and, after

garden of the Ritz your meal, relax on
Hotel. Its quiet, the grassy slopes
ROMANCE
elegant terrace, of Las Vistillas.
occasionally the
setting for live jazz, Sunset at the
is ideal for a snack Temple of
You don’t have to at any time of day. Debod (01)
wait for Valentine’s The garden bar On a hilltop in the
Day to have a 02 offers a range of gardens at Príncipe
romantic time in tapas and typical Pío, to the west of
Madrid. The city Breakfast at the bustle of the city Spanish dishes. Plaza de España,
boasts many spots National Museum and is ideal for a stands the Temple
with a special charm of Romanticism restful, intimate Tapas in La Latina of Debod, a struc-
of their own to walk, At the beginning stroll: the Royal Traditionally a ture dating back
talk or raise a glass of the 19th centu- Botanical Gardens. neighbourhood over 2,200 years,
to your partner. The ry, the Romantic The fragrances of known for its thea- presented to Spain
route we describe movement ideal- plants and flowers tres and artists, La by Egypt in 1968. Its
here takes in some ised the concept of from around the Latina is a favourite privileged position
of the places no escaping to idyllic world mingle on with people in offers magnificent
couple should miss. places, exalting the gardens’ four the city when it’s views and it is a
love, nature and terraces, each of time for tapas. A particularly splen-
the passions. The which features a suggestion... Join did sight at sunset.
Museum of Roman- different type of the locals at one of
ticism’s garden vegetation. Cou- Drinks at the Círcu-
evokes all these ples can continue lo de Bellas Artes
high life
values, which can to enjoy a relaxing To end the perfect
be sensed in its morning by mak-
On the rooftop ter- day, why not raise a
vegetation and the ing their way to El
race at the Círculo glass while enjoying
aromas of its tea, Retiro Park, where
de Bellas Artes the city’s finest vista
coffee and cakes. they can spend an you can sip a by night? The roof-
unforgettable hour delicious cocktail top of the Círculo
A stroll rowing on the lake. while taking in de Bellas Artes (02)
through the HG>H?MA>gG>LM has incomparable
Botanical Gardens Aperitifs in the views of the cen- views which make
Downtown Madrid Ritz Garden tre of Madrid. the ideal back-
conceals a place Another oasis of drop for a glass of
that is remote from calm can be found CÍRCULO DE wine or a cocktail
the hustle and close to the Botan- BELLAS ARTES from the bar.

38
DON’T MISS THE
MAGNIFICENT
VIEWS OF THE
MADRID SKY AT
SUNSET FROM
THE TEMPLE OF
DEBOD

01

39
 PLANS

Elegance
The number of
stores selling men’s
SHOPPING
clothes and acces-
sories in the Conde
Duque district is
constantly grow-
Madrid’s enticing ing, seeking to MADRID HAS
shop windows are combine elegance EVERYTHING
FROM THE
hard to resist: the and class with the
LATEST TRENDS
capital offers the neighbourhood’s TO EXCLUSIVE
latest in fashion and philosophy. Fash- BOUTIQUES RUN BY
YOUNG DESIGNERS
accessories where ion aside, tucked
everyone’s sure to away are several
find something they record shops where
love. From traditional music lovers are
elegance to cutting- sure to find some-
edge trends, here thing special.
are the city’s top
shopping hotspots. Brands
Piamonte and
Almirante are the
main thoroughfares
running through
Salesas, which has
become an urban
fashion catwalk,
bringing together
designers’ studios,
stores stocking
leading interna-
tional brands,
beauty salons and
shoe boutiques.

A touch of luxury
Known as the
Golden Mile, Calle
Serrano and the 02

40
 01

surrounding area elegant styles to this district to set Bargains

vintage style
are the capital’s casual, including up their studios Quality and
most select shop- Mercado de stores catering and clothes and affordability are
ping district, its Motores is one for urban tribes jewellery shops, combined in the
streets lined with of the latest such as skaters where the latest city’s outlets and
jewellers (01), markets to open. and goths. Gran trends await. street markets.
gourmet cake Here they sell Vía and Arenal are The Literary Quar- For those not
shops, and stores everything from home to the big ter combines wanting to ven-
selling high-end retro clothing names in main- the avant-garde ture far from the
fashion, shoes to bikes and stream fashion, spirit of Mala- city centre, street
and accessories. antique furniture. while you can saña with the markets such as
check out the neighbourhood’s the Rastro, Cuesta
For younger mercado latest trends at own traditional de Moyano, Mer-
shoppers de motores the picturesque bohemian feel. cado de las Ranas
A walk from Fuen- Fuencarral Market. The area boasts an and Mercado de
carral to Sol, taking excellent choice of Motores (02) are
in Gran Vía, will A modern outlook art galleries, book- good options,
meet the needs Many young urban shops, antique and a must for
of young people fashion design- and interior deco- anyone keen to
of any origin: from ers have chosen ration stores. bag a bargain.

41
 PLANS

LGBT

Madrid is LGBT.
Diversity is one of
those adjectives
that springs to mind
when describing
Madrid.
All year round, the
LGBT community
organises ceremo-
nies, events, festi-
vals and, of course,
the famous Gay
Pride celebration,
attracting millions
of people every year.
And, as tolerance is
the order of the day,
all these events are
open to the entire
community.
Your sexual orienta-
tion doesn’t matter
here, what’s impor- MADRID PRIDE
tant is that you want IS OPEN TO
EVERYONE AND
to take part, share IS ONE OF THE
and, above all, show BIGGEST EVENTS
respect. With no dis- OF ITS KIND IN THE
WORLD
tinctions.

42
 Tourism
One of the high
points of the year
is in January, when
Fitur Gay is held
as part of the Fitur
Tourism Trade Fair, 02
showcasing the best
tourism options for (02), from all kinds Madbear and Somos Todas
the LGBT traveller. of places and back- Nosotras macrofestival.
grounds march Somos Todas
Gay Pride through the centre Chueca is the Beyond Chueca
One of the city’s of Madrid in a cel- nerve centre for Besides Chueca,
most popular festi- ebration involving the Madbears and other neigh-
vals (01). Five days everyone, whoever their many fans in bourhoods have
of celebrating, but they are. Behind December, when also become the
also of defending them, ingeniously local bars and other favourite haunt
gay rights, with proc- decorated floats, venues open their of many gays and
lamations, street music and visually doors to this sec- lesbians. The
stalls, cultural activi- stunning perform- tion of the LGBT streets of Lavapiés
ties, sporting events ers. And everyone community. Lesbi- and Malasaña, for
and live music taking who wants to be ans also have their example, are attract-
over the city’s main part of it marches own event in May, ing increasingly
thoroughfares; the in front, behind and with the Nosotras larger numbers of
nerve centre is in all around them. gay-friendly people,
Chueca but events the big day both during the day
are held in other LesGaiCineMad and at night. In La
areas like Callao and This is the biggest /A>FHLMh:F- Latina too, Sundays
Plaza de España too. LGBT film festival ;HR:GM:G= are special, as from
in the Spanish- >GM>KM:BGBG@>O>GM the morning onwards
Gay Pride March speaking world. ?HKMA>'"/ a number of bars
This event, attract- For a few days <HFFNGBMRBL and other venues are
ing huge crowds, in October and MA>":R+KB=> part of the gay and
is so unlike any November, Madrid (:K<AZA>E= lesbian scene, where
other and such fun is one big cinema BGMA><>GMK>H? people round off the
that it deserves a screen and cultural (:=KB= weekend with tapas,
special mention. exhibition venue beer, wine, dancing
Hundreds of thou- on the theme of g ay p r i d e and fun until the
01 sands of people sexual orientation. march small hours.

43
 AUTHENTIC MADRID A RT WA L K RECOLETOS

L E T Y O U R S E L F B E C A P T I VA T E D B Y M A D R I D green spaces

C O M E A N D S E E M A D R I D ’ S G R E AT L A N D M A R K S , M O N U - food & drink

MENTS AND INCREDIBLE PLACES LIKE THE PRADO, CIBE-
L E S , R E T I R O PA R K A N D P U E R TA D E A LC A L Á . W A L K T H E shopping & leisure
L E N G T H O F T H E G R A N V Í A , H AV E Y O U R P H OTO TA K E N
art & culture
I N S O L A N D G A Z E AT T H E T R E A S U R E S I N T H E M U S E U M S
A LO N G T H E A R T W A L K . T H E B E R N A B É U S TA D I U M A N D nightlife
T H E T E R R AC E B A R S I N L A L AT I N A A W A I T Y O U TO O.
children
44
 HAPSBURG GRAN VÍA
CASTELLANA SOL L A L AT I NA
MADRID ALCALÁ

HIGHLIGHT

antonio machado

“MADRID, 46 the art walk (paseo del arte) Explore 66 hapsburg madrid A bit of history.
HOW GOOD YOUR the tree-lined avenues where Madrid’s 74 sol Go to kilometre 0 and then let
NAME SOUNDS, leading museums are based. yourself be carried away.
BREAKWATER 54 recoletos We suggest a shopping route 80 gran vía / alcalá Great buildings, fash-
FOR ALL THE that takes in high style and fine food. ionable shops and fantastic nightlife.
SPAINS!” 60 castellana The heart of business, foot- 88 la latina Soak up Madrid’s authentic
ball and architecture. atmosphere in its bars and open-air cafés.

we suggest Madrid is better explored on foot, so venture out and walk its streets.
45
 art & culture

green spaces
AU T H E N T I C
MADRID A RT WA L K
children

sleeping

take a stroll!

FROM VELÁZQUEZ
TO PICASSO IN 1 KM

Few places in the three big muse-

world can boast ums, the Prado,
of having so much the Thyssen and
talent per square the Reina Sofía.
metre. In just But there’s more.
one kilometre, Art continues in
the distance other buildings
between Cibeles and institutions
and Atocha, you that complete
can admire work the area’s cultural
by geniuses like attractions: Centro- 01
Velázquez, Rubens, Centro, the Madrid
Monet, Picasso, Stock Exchange, ing to take a break attractions in the Cibeles Palace, the
Goya and Dalí. Art CaixaForum and to enjoy the peace area around Paseo Thyssen Museum
lovers will have to the church of Los and quiet in the del Prado. That and the Círculo de
wear comfortable Jerónimos are all nearby green areas. well-earned break Bellas Artes are
shoes, because compulsory stops A tree-lined avenue, can also be taken ideal for contem-
they have a lot of en route. Between a vertical garden high up overlooking plating the centre
walking to do, start- painting and paint- and a botanical gar- Madrid’s cityscape. of Madrid from a
ing with the city’s ing, you’ll be need- den are the natural The viewpoints in high vantage point.

46
a must Stop awhile to gaze at ‘Las Meninas’, Velázquez’s masterpiece.
 key words

INSPIRATION // CUTTING-EDGE
ART MUSEUM // WALK // VIEWPOINT // GARDENS ART
TRIANGLE // TALENT
DALÍ // PICASSO // VELÁZQUEZ // GOYA // SOROLLA

AV E N U E O F dating from the

GENIUSES 13th to the late 20th
Along a tree-lined century.
avenue and only a
few metres away Reina Sofía Museum
from each other are Following the Paseo 02
three of the best art del Prado towards
galleries in the world. Atocha you reach the
home of the latest
Prado Museum trends in contempo-
If there’s one place rary art. Its collection
you simply must see ranges from the late
in Madrid, it’s the 19th century to the 03
Prado Museum. From present day and
the moment you walk works by artists such 01 círculo de bellas artes Rooftop view.
into the building, as Picasso, Dalí and 02 art in the heights Tri-Unicorn (1981), by Antoni
designed by Juan de Miró hang on its Miralda is at the Reina Sofía.
03 tucked away The Reina Sofía extension was
Villanueva in 1785 and walls. Don’t forget to
designed by French architect Jean Nouvel.
extended by Rafael browse in the book- 04 reina sofía Guernica, by Picasso.
Moneo in 2007, art shop, La Central. 04 05 the collection The Prado owns 7,600 paintings.
takes over. Its rooms
contain treasures
such as Las Meninas
by Velázquez, The
Three Graces by
Rubens and The
Third of May 1808
by Goya.

Thyssen-Bornemisza
Museum
If you’re keen to see
more, this art gallery
is very close by.
Here you’ll find one
of the best painting
collections in the
world, with more than
a thousand works 05

47
 A RT WA L K

C U LT U R E
CONTINUES
The three great muse-
ums are not alone. The
Art Walk also has a
series of buildings and
exhibition venues that
complete the area’s
cultural attractions.
01
CentroCentro
Cibeles Palace is a De Meuron to hold a
treasure in its own busy programme of
right. Built by Antonio exhibitions, workshops,
Palacios and Joaquín 02 lectures, courses and
Otamendi, it was offi- concerts.
cially opened in 1919 sical building that
as the headquarters you can visit free of Los Jerónimos
of the Spanish post charge every morn- Behind the Prado
office (Correos). Now- ing from Monday to Museum is one of
adays it is home to the Friday. It no longer Madrid’s loveliest
CentroCentro cultural operates as a stock churches. It has been
centre. It hosts exhi- exchange but it is still the setting for royal
bitions and chamber an important building weddings, such as that
music concerts are that traces part of the of King Alfonso XIII, and
held in the auditori- country’s financial coronations of mon-
um. Don’t miss the and artistic history. archs including Juan
spectacular glass Carlos I. The church
gallery and the dome, CaixaForum cloister became part
with nearly 2,000 trian- Just opposite the of the Prado Museum
gular panes of glass. Botanical Gardens when the latter was
It also hosts the most you come across a 03 extended.
glamorous parties. fine example of the
capital’s new style 01 the ‘other’ cathedral The Gothic church of Los Jerónimos.
Madrid Stock of architecture. The 02 spanish armada Learn about its history at the Naval Museum.
Exchange building is a former 03 design There’s a reading area on the 2nd floor of CentroCentro.
04 madrid arteries Alcalá and Gran Vía from the Círculo de Bellas Artes.
Halfway between electricity substation
05 drinks The terrace of the Cibeles Palace is perfect for having a drink.
Cibeles and Neptune that has been refur- 06 cibeles To get a different view, climb up to the viewing point.
stands this Neoclas- bished by Herzog & 07 minerva The goddess dominates the Círculo de Bellas Artes terrace.

48
 07

A CITY the exhibition, you

TO ENJOY THE
LATEST IN GOURMET WITH VIEWS can take a rest on
FOOD WITH THE After admiring the terraces. While
BEST VIEWS, CLIMB
the art treasures you admire lovely
UP TO THE CÍRCULO
DE BELLAS ARTES indoors it’s time to views of the muse-
ROOFTOP TERRACE discover the city’s um gardens and the
hidden charms Paseo del Prado,
from up high. Look they serve breakfast,
upwards and climb tapas and evening
up to three of the cocktails. Plus, in
area’s most attrac- the summer, they
tive terraces. open the Mirador
del Thyssen terrace,
Cibeles Palace a luxurious restau-
On the eighth floor rant serving Medi-
of CentroCentro terranean cuisine.
there’s a viewpoint
70 metres up. Círculo de Bellas
Tickets are sold Artes rooftop
at the entrance to If you really want to
the building and, have the city at your
although there is a feet, try the Círculo
lift, the best thing is de Bellas Artes
to climb the 88 stairs building in Calle de
to the viewpoint. For Alcalá, a few metres
people needing a away from Plaza de
rest, there’s a terrace Cibeles. The eighth
bar and restaurant floor has one of
04 on the 6th floor. the best rooftop
terraces in Madrid.
The Thyssen Not only do you get
viewpoint a spectacular view,
The Thyssen is more but you can also try
than a museum. If the fresh market
you get hungry while cuisine in the res-
05 06 you’re going round taurant.

remember $GB;>E>L+:E:<>RHNqEEgG=BG?HKF:MBHG:;HNM<NEMNK:E:<MBOBMB>L:EHG@MA>KM2:ED 49
 A RT WA L K

IN GREEN is Plaza de Cibeles

A N D B LU E and its famous
It’s not all about art fountain, one of the
on the Paseo del most photographed
Prado. To escape the sights in Madrid.
hustle and bustle This fountain,
of the city, it’s worth dedicated to the
01
walking along the goddess of Nature,
Paseo and admiring is the scene of 01 triumphal fountain Atlético supporters take their team flag to Neptune.
its spectacular grove celebrations fol- 02 a green wall One of the façades of the CaixaForum building contains
of trees, making it lowing wins by Real a vertical garden created by landscape designer Patrick Blanc.
03 a green lung created over two hundred years ago The Botanical
the oldest public gar- Madrid and the
Gardens, designed 250 years ago, are also a scientific research centre.
den in Spain. At the Spanish national 04 postcard Cibeles, one of the most frequently reproduced images.
top of the avenue football team. 05 botanical gardens Tropical plant species grow in the greenhouses.

SPAIN’S
FIRST VERTICAL
GARDEN STRETCHES
24 METRES UP
ONE OF THE
FAÇADES OF
CAIXAFORUM

02

50
a tip Have your camera at the ready to photograph one of Madrid’s icons, Cibeles.

Carlos Urroz
o f arcomadrid
“The café at the
03
Its partner at the major football team,
other end of the Atlético de Madrid.
avenue is the
fountain in honour Vertical garden
of Neptune, the To admire nature
focal point for fans you also have to look
celebrating a win upwards. A splen-
by the city’s other did vertical garden 04
my madrid
director
in madrid
Art galleries are
05
free. Artemadrid
has some fantas- stretches 24 metres
tic exhibitions up the side of the
for discovering CaixaForum building.
artists. Around 18,000 plants
from 250 species
make a colourful dis-
play for passers-by.
FOR A
SURPRISE Royal Botanical
Gardens
If you’re after some
Museum of peace and quiet,
Romanticism is right next to the
always worth Prado Museum
you’ll find the Botan-
a visit.” ical Gardens, which
occupy more than
eight hectares of
to meet land. It’s the perfect
friends place for wandering
Dry Cosmopoli- around and looking
tan (Gran Meliá at the 5,000 species
Fénix), perfect for of plants and flow-
after work. ers, including roses,
dahlias, tulips and
going back to azaleas. There’s also
childhood room for a bonsai
The garden at the collection and an
Lázaro Galdiano avenue of olive trees
Museum. We with the country’s
lived nearby and I most traditionally
used to love it. grown varieties.
51
 PA S E O
EL RETIRO
DEL ARTE

01

AT WEEKENDS,
THE PARK IS
PACKED WITH
VISITORS,
MAGICIANS, LIVING
SCULPTURES AND
MUSICIANS

02

A GREEN LUNG for royalty. Puppet-

If you need to take eers, lovers, kids
a breather, head playing, runners
off to El Retiro, a and older couples
park that spreads strolling hand-in-
over more than one hand make up the
square kilometre human landscape
and is a favourite of a complex where
with the locals, every tree, plant
although it was and flower is part of
originally designed a well-defined plan. 03

52
 my madrid

Paco Roncero El Retiro is a huge,

c h e f at l a
elegant park and
terraza del
just aimlessly
casino
wandering around
its grand avenues
my last is a great way to
shopping trip spend some time. 04
In one of the La Rosaleda, Jar-
many pop-up dines de Cecilio
stores that Rodríguez and the
appear on the formal flower gar-
city streets. dens are some of its
best known spots,
although every part
PROUD TO of the park is beau-
tiful. Open every
“Feel the day of the year, it
solidarity and takes on a different
strength of appearance with

the people of each season. Spring

is a riot of flowers.
Madrid” In summer it pro- 05
vides a cool haven
from the heat, and architecture, are
to surprise in autumn the both busy exhibi-
someone changing colours tion venues.
I take them to are a delight. It’s A popular running
the Taller de las also a garden where circuit, the Carriage
Emociones that people can do a Drive near the old
I’ve set up in the variety of activities, zoo is used for the
secret passages including roller Book Fair in late
under the skating, exercising 06 spring.
Casino. and painting. The
sparkling Glass Pal- 01 a haven of culture The Book Fair has been held in El Retiro Park
what’s best ace, framed by its every spring since 1967.
about madrid romantic lake, and 02 a quiet afternoon The park is an oasis in the heart of the city.
03 a break Enjoy the terrace cafés or hire a boat on the lake.
Its people and the Velázquez pal-
04 cast-iron architecture Exhibitions are held at the Glass Palace.
the 270 days of ace, a 19th century 05 a family outing In the rowing boats at the jetty.
sunshine a year. gem of industrial 06 literature Find the book you’re looking for on the book fair stands.

the kids Can enjoy magic and puppet shows. 53

 art & culture

shopping & leisure

AU T H E N T I C
MADRID RECOLETOS
food & drink

children

01

enjoy!
A STROLL
T H R O U G H PA L A C E S A N D T R E N D S
From Colón to that invites visitors to Las Salesas.
Cibeles, this is noble wander through side The narrow streets
Madrid, with its streets and discover and alleyways
countless palaces, a wealth of flavours. around the square
mansions and monu- Restaurants serv- have become a
mental façades that ing Spanish and fashion showcase
make visitors keep International cuisine, in recent years.
their heads up and tapas bars, places to In this modern
their eyes skywards. have brunch or enjoy Madrid, of experts in
Buildings like the an after work drink, gourmet food and
National Library plus gourmet food fashion, there’s also
and Linares Palace stores, all making up room for the kids.
are symbols of this an unrivalled array of The Wax Museum,
elegant and regal fine food and drink. green areas and chil-
Madrid where art And all only a few dren’s workshops in
and culture are at the metres away from cultural centres are
centre of everything. each other. a great leisure and
<1018/>But this is Shopping also has recreation option for
only the outer layer its place in Recole- the youngest mem-
of a neighbourhood tos, mainly around bers of the family.

54
a must An afternoon of shopping in the fashion boutiques around Las Salesas.
 key words

TRENDS // GOURMET
PALACES // BARS // SHOPPING // TAPAS // GALLERIES
FASHION // YOUNG DESIGNERS
ARCHITECTURE // CHATS // AFTER WORK

02

03 04

STREET OF cartographic docu-

MONUMENTS ments, engravings,
Paseo de Recole- drawings and
tos is the image photographs, the
of noble Madrid. National Library
Palaces, muse- houses a museum
ums and historic and is also well
buildings line up known for its var-
one after the ied free cultural
other to aston- programme, featur-
ish passers-by ing exhibitions, 05
walking along the lectures, debates
tree-lined avenue. and other events. centre and today 01 heritage façades The Linares Palace is a
it’s home to the gem of the Belle Époque.
National Library Medina Mapfre Foundation, 02 a treasure The codices in the Library.
03 art nouveau Café del Espejo.
This colossal build- de las Torres which holds mainly
04 see the reading rooms The National
ing dominates the Palace painting and photo- Library runs guided tours.
centre of Paseo If you follow the graphic exhibitions. 05 palace cooking Try the dishes in the
de Recoletos, with street to Plaza restaurant in Casa de América.
its statues of King de Cibeles you’ll Linares Palace
Alfonso X The Wise reach this palace A few metres away legend, you can it’s worth taking
and Saint Isidore. built between from Cibeles you hear the wails of the guided tour
In addition to its 1881 and 1884. come across this a ghost inside. and seeing areas
priceless collec- Like many other mysterious palace Leaving popular like the ballrooms,
tion of literary mansions and dating back to myths aside, in the mirrored room,
treasures, includ- palaces in the 1877, now Casa addition to the the chapel, the
ing codices, old area, it eventually de América. cultural activities dolls’ house and
books, maps, became a cultural According to held in the building, the garden.

55
 RECOLETOS
THIS AREA IS A
PARADISE FOR
LOVERS OF GOOD
FOOD, WITH
RESTAURANTS
A GOURMET SERVING ALL KINDS
OF SPECIALITIES
STROLL
Over a short dis-
tance of barely 260
metres, between
Paseo de Recole-
tos and Serrano,
you’ll find an unri-
valled choice of
gourmet food.
Tapas bars, restau-
rants, cafés and
delicatessen stores
all converge here to
delight and tempt
foodie visitors.

For all tastes

and palates
Anyone wanting
to try the best
Spanish dishes
will certainly find
what they’re look-
ing for here, from
Basque grill houses
and restaurants
specialising in
Mediterranean diet 01
food, through to
seafood, chargrills tional Moroccan
01 finger food In these streets there are restaurants where you can
and Andalusian cooking, Mexican
have tapas or something from the menu.
wine cellars. food and delicious 02 a terrace bar The glass pavilion at Café El Espejo.
But this is also Japanese meals. 03 at sundown In the area around Plaza de las Salesas there are lots of
home to interna- There’s even a places to have a cocktail, like Le Cabrera.
04 ’pinchos’ Don’t miss this local speciality.
tional cuisine. venue serving
05 à la carte A meal in its restaurant is the perfect way to round off a
You can eat a traditional English visit to Casa América.
New York style fish and chips. 06 & 07 historic Café Gijón, a favourite of Valle-Inclán, Galdós and Severo
hamburger, tradi- If you combine the Ochoa, is still a popular spot to meet up and have a chat.

56
 my madrid

Javier
Gutiérrez
actor

my most
captivating
place
From Cornisa Park
you can watch 07
one of the most
beautiful sunsets gourmet food expe-
in the city. rience with his-
02 tory you get Café
Gijón, on Paseo
MY NEW de Recoletos.
HOBBY A long list of
writers and intel-
“Reading the lectuals have
newspapers in sat at the tables
the Cibeles Palace in this historic

chill-out area.” café, which first

opened in 1888.
03 In the area around
my secret Plaza de Santa
hideout Bárbara you’ll find
El Local Gas- the temples of the
tronómico (Trave- after work drink,
sía de las Vistillas), for people look-
04 where you can ing for an evening
enjoy film and beer or cocktail.
pasta at the same There are also plac-
time. They call it es where you can
the ‘fettucine’. enjoy a tasty mid-
morning brunch.
my shopping Delicatessen
district stores selling
Calle del Conde teas and sweet
Duque, where I treats are also to
05 06 buy my clothes. be found here.

57
 03

ing young talent. Oscar de la Renta

THE BOUTIQUES
IN LAS SALESAS It all started 70 years and Marc Jacobs.
ARE A FAVOURITE ago, when designer Brands like Hunter,
HAUNT OF Jesús del Pozo See by Chloé, Wild-
CELEBRITIES
AND FASHION decided to open his fox, Paul&Joe and
BLOGGERS first menswear store Virginy Castaway
in his birthplace, make these shops a
Calle Almirante. magnet for numer-
01 Since then, the ous celebrities and
neighbourhood has fashion bloggers.
S H OWC A S E changed substan- But the inter-
FOR TRENDS tially and become national firms
Welcome to the a fashionable are not alone.
coolest neigh- shopping area. Photography shops,
bourhood. Bárbara de Bra- traditional food
A few years ago ganza, Piamonte, stores, gourmet
the area of Las Almirante, Fer- shops and charm-
Salesas became nando VI, Argen- ing little boutiques
one of Madrid’s sola, Regueros sit side-by-side
fashion hotspots. and Pelayo are with leading brands
Small boutiques, now the trendiest along these streets.
multi-brand stores, 02 streets in Madrid. Here you can buy
showrooms and These avenues are anything from jewel-
modern designer 01 fashion and art In addition to boutiques full of multi-brand lery and costume
spaces make this stocking the latest fashion trends, Las stores with huge jewellery with a
street an inde- Salesas also has lots of art galleries. shop windows dis- touch of hippy
02 exhibitions Young artists exhibit their
pendent urban playing the latest chic, to French
work in local art galleries.
fashion runway 03 traditional shops There’s also room for trends by designers style hats and
for up and com- old-fashioned shops. like Galliano, Cavali, decorative items.

58
a tip Go into a few vintage interior decoration shops, they’re real museums.
 RECOLETOS

KIDS’ STUFF
Apart from the
amusement park,
the zoo and Faunia,
Madrid provides a
wide range of chil-
dren’s activities for
enjoying a day out
in the city centre..
04
Learning
through play both ideal settings
Many of Madrid’s to take a walk and
cultural activities allow the kids to
are designed to let off steam.
appeal to kids. 01 Plus, in spring and
As well as introduc- autumn, the Paseo
ing young children 01 children’s workshops In June, July and August, the National also hosts the Old
Library runs an extensive programme of activities for children.
to the world of and Bargain Books
02 celebrities The Wax Museum has over 450 figures on show.
books, the National 03 books and history Look out for classic editions of popular stories at Fair, an event
Library and the the old book fair. where parents can
nearby Archaeolog- 04 open-air leisure Numerous open-air activities and fairs are held in buy their children
Descubrimiento Gardens.
ical Museum hold the same books
junior workshops they used to read
in the summer when they were
for children aged children, like the
between 5 and 12. stories published
by Calleja and
Scary fun the “Celia” and
One of the most “Antoñita la Fan-
entertaining muse- tástica” stories.
ums in Madrid is in It’s not difficult
Plaza de Colón. 02 03 to find sticker
In the Wax Muse- albums, old school
um, an old favour- into wax figures. est places in the In the open air books and comic
ite, kids have a bril- Get the bravest to museum, where Descubrimiento collections.
liant time seeing ride on the “train the most famous Gardens and the Parents will also
their sporting and of terror” taking real and fictional tree-lined Paseo enjoy this trip
music idols turned them to the scari- monsters live. de Recoletos are down memory lane.

59
 food & drink

shopping & leisure

AU T H E N T I C
MADRID CASTELLANA
nightlife

luxury

reach for the sky!

T H E F I NA N C I A L H E A RT O F T H E C I T Y
This six-kilometre of Spain’s tallest also a centre of
long avenue, with buildings are to be intense cultural and
its many different found here. When academic activity
faces, is the city’s there’s a match and home to some
central artery, divid- on you can watch of Madrid’s finest
ing the city in two. the army of Real restaurants. In
Apart from the four Madrid fans head- warm weather the
skyscrapers in the ing for the Santiago outdoor terraces
Cuatro Torres Busi- Bernabéu stadium. in the surrounding
ness Area, some The Castellana is area are full of life.

01

60
experience Stand at the foot of the towers and look up to get a real sense of their height.
 key words

BUSINESS // EXHIBITIONS
MICHELIN STARS // FOOTBALL // CHILLIDA // ART
OUTDOOR TERRACES // SCIENCE
ACADEMICS // CONVENTIONS // SKYSCRAPERS
02 03

include Plaza de
Cibeles, where
the club’s fans
gather to celebrate
important victo-
ries. In the bars
and restaurants
in streets around
the stadium you
can also enjoy the
special atmos-
phere when there
is a match. Some
prepare special
half-time snacks.
When there is no
match on, you can
visit the stadium
and take the Bern-
abéu Tour, which
04 includes a chance
to go onto the
THE HOME and is packed for pitch, and visits to
OF REAL every match, not the Presidential
MADRID only by the club’s Box and the trophy
Real Madrid is own supporters room, where the
European football’s and those of the club’s national
most successful rival team but by and international
team ever and the many who are awards are on
club’s magnificent simply lovers of display. It is also
stadium, the San- good football. A 05 possible to attend
tiago Bernabéu, match there is well the team’s training
lies close to Plaza worth seeing. sessions at the
01 business centre The Cuatro Torres
de Lima, one of The club’s impor- Business Area overlooks the Castellana. Ciudad Deportiva
many squares dot- tance can be 02 museum The club displays the boots of in Valdebebas, on
ted along Paseo detected in other some of its legendary players. the outskirts of
03 the tour The team’s trophy room.
de la Castellana. parts of the city. Madrid. You might
04 unique The Santiago Bernabéu stadium.
The stadium holds A Real Madrid 05 views The stadium has four restaurants get an autograph if
80.354 spectators route also has to overlooking the pitch. you’re lucky!

61
 my madrid

Fran Llorente SKYLINE

journalist
The first thing you
see as you approach
a spot to Madrid is the four
surprise towers (Cuatro
people Torres). They include
Some of the out- the Bankia Tower,
THE FOUR door terraces in designed by Nor-
GIANTS, ALL
the centre with man Foster. At 250
AROUND 250
METRES HIGH, good views of metres, it is the tall-
HAVE CHANGED Madrid. est building in Spain,
THE CITY’S
slightly taller than
SKYLINE
the other three tow-
WITHOUT ers.. The inclined sky-
SPENDING scrapers of the Gate
ANY MONEY of Europe, which
appear to defy gravity,
“Walk, run are another notable
or cycle in feature of this district,
Casa as is the Picasso

de Campo.” Tower, designed by

Japanese architect
Minoru Yamasaki,
01 which echoes the
my latest solid construction
01 a head for heights César Pelli, who also built the Petronas Twin
discovery of a Greek column.
Towers in Kuala Lumpur, designed the 249-metre Torre de Cristal.
02 not just business The PwC Tower, at 239 metres, is home to a five- The Capricho In the BBVA head
star hotel. Park. I’d heard of office building, the
03 below the towers The complex contains a park with gardens & fountains. it but I didn’t go work of Sáenz de
there until four Oíza, horizontal lines
years ago. predominate, while
the Castelar building,
memories of with its slim base,
madrid gives a sensation
The lights adver- of being amazingly
tising musicals light. To see how
in Gran Vía take this is achieved,
me back to my view the building
02 03 childhood. from the back.

62
 CASTELLANA

C U LT U R A L cio de Congresos
HUB in the nineteenth
The ceaseless activ- century. Famous for
ity characteristic its stuffed elephant,
of the Castellana the museum takes
also involves its cul- visitors on a trip
tural and scientific through evolutionary
centres. Specialists history. The Arte
01 02 ranging from econ- Canal Exhibition
omists to writers, Centre has brought
including more than new cultural expe-
one Nobel Prize riences to Plaza de
winner, regularly Castilla. Art ranging
attend conferences from Picasso to the
at the Residencia Pharaohs has been
de Estudiantes and displayed there.
the Ortega-Marañón A hidden gem, albeit
and Rafael del Pino a very visible one,
Foundations. These is the Museum of
events are often Public Art, which has
open to the public, an open air display
who can also attend of sculpture on
many interesting the steps that run
art exhibitions. down from Calle de
Another place of Serrano. Above the
special interest is paving stones floats
the Museum of Chillida’s Sirena
Natural Science, Varada, together
occupying an with works by artists
imposing building such as Chirino,
that was the Pala- Miró and Palazuelo.

01 in the open air Toros Ibéricos, by Alberto

Sánchez, is one of the 17 sculptures on
display at the Museum of Public Art.
02 a century of culture The Residencia
de Estudiantes was founded in 1910.
03 prehistoric Remains of dinosaurs can be
seen at the Museum of Natural Science.
03

arte canal Don’t miss the exhibitions at this leading art centre. 63
 THE LATEST
ADDITION TO THE
MICHELIN THREE-
STAR CLUB IS CHEF
DAVID MUÑOZ, WITH
DIVERXO

01

GOOD still common for

TA S T E deals to be struck
Because of the around a table.
Castellana’s role At Santceloni,
as a financial Michelin two-
district some star chef Óscar
of the city’s top Velasco follows in
restaurants have Santi Santamaría’s
been attracted to pragmatic foot-
the area. It should steps. Moreover,
be remembered the restaurant
that in Spain it is boasts the finest 02

64
a tip Take a seat on a terrace in the Castellana to feel the pulse of the city.
 CASTELLANA

taurants, such as
Zalacaín, which
specialises in
Basque cuisine.
New developments
03 include the cre-
ative and radical
fusion brought by
David Muñoz to
DiverXo (which
now has a sec-
ond outlet in the
StreetXo tavern at
the Corte Inglés
“Gourmet Expe-
rience” in Callao)
and the gastrobo-
tanical revolution
sparked by Rodrigo
de la Calle at the
04 Villamagna Hotel
restaurant. For
creative south-
east Asian cuisine
Sudestada is an
excellent choice.
The Castellana is
cheese board in fascinating at any
the city. Another time of year but an
Michelin two-star interesting feature
chef is Sergi Arola. you will observe
The culinary pres- 05 06 in warm weather
tige of Madrid is the presence of
has grown over 01 star cuisine DiverXo, in the expert hands of David Muñoz, has restored outdoor seating
the years. Michelin three-star cuisine to Madrid. on the pavements
The Castellana 02 trendy spot The Ten con Ten is a favourite with locals. by the side lanes.
03 any time Breakfast, brunch or dinner you’ll find good options in the area.
area is also home Take a seat on one
04 fancy a drink? At night enjoy a cocktail in the Lolita Lounge.
to some of the 05 signature cuisine Óscar Velasco offers his creations at Santceloni. of these terraces
city’s classic res- 06 oriental flavour For cutting edge Asian food try Sudestada. and enjoy the city.

65
 art & culture

food & drink

AU T H E N T I C
MADRID HAPSBURG
shopping & leisure

nightlife

return!

GREAT
LANDMARKS
OF OUR
HISTORY
It was from this maze
of narrow streets that
Madrid emerged as
the capital of Spain.
This pedestrianised
area within earshot of
the opera has seen
the opening of many
gastrobars in recent
years. Its magic lies
in its historical land-
marks competing
with tiny squares to
charm visitors and
the flamenco shows
where they dance
as if there were no
01 tomorrow.

66
a must The Campo del Moro gardens are an oasis of peace in the city centre.
 key words

ARCHAEOLOGY // FLAMENCO
GARDEN // GASTROBARS// HISTORY // CATHEDRAL
BOHEMIAN // THEATRE // OPERA
ARAB PAST // LITTLE SQUARES // ROYAL PALACE
02

During the Veranos

de la Villa festival, the
adjacent Sabatini
Gardens become the
setting for flamenco
and classical music
concerts. When the
sun goes down over
the horizon, this is
the place to see the
most spectacular
sunset in the capital.
The square takes you
on a journey back
in time, as demon-
strated on the first
Wednesday of each
month at midday
when the Changing
of the Guards takes
place at the Royal
Palace. Lancers and
yeomen, riflemen
03 and military units
in charge of artillery
AIR OF house, Almudena equipment and
ROMANTICISM Cathedral and the ammunition carriages
Plaza de Oriente is Royal Palace are posi- parade for almost an
one of Madrid’s most tioned around its edg- hour, as they did in
historic squares, sym- es. Right in the centre the times of Alfonso
metrical, monumental stands the equestrian XII and Alfonso XIII.
and surrounded by statue of Philip IV that On the other
impressive buildings. seems to be galloping Wednesdays of the
04 The Teatro Real opera through the square. year at the same time
On one side a shady the palace sentries
01 more than a cathedral The Almudena also houses a museum. park provides a place –two on foot and
02 the skyline The evocative appeal of Madrid’s Oriental skyline.
for children to play two on horseback–
03 royal palace Plaza de Oriente is presided over by the façade of one
of Madrid’s most emblematic buildings and surrounded by gardens. while adults relax in change over every 30
04 ritual Changing of the Guards on the first Wednesday of the month. the outdoor cafés. minutes until 2pm.

67
 HAPSBURG

THE SOUND ammunition store

OF OPERA which exploded,
The Teatro Real almost destroying
opera house is one the building. Today
of the main stops on it is enjoying a time
the European opera of maximum splen-
circuit. Spanish dour. Of interest is
and overseas pro- its stage area, the
ductions, concerts, pride of the theatre.
lectures, and even Occupying 1,472
performances by square metres, its
pop and rock groups 18 articulated plat-
can be heard within forms allow complex
its walls, renovated set changes to be
on innumerable made. The auditori-
occasions until the um accommodates
final refurbishment between 1,748 and
of 1997. The opera’s 1,854 seats, depend-
intense activity ing on the set. There
is echoed in the are 28 boxes, eight
neighbouring cafés, prosceniums and
which are always the Royal Box.
abuzz with expec- The three guided
tation before each 01 tours the Teatro Real
performance, as offers to the public
well as in the nearby –historical, artistic
music shops and and technical–
luthiers’ workshops. explain the busy
If only to admire the day-to-day business
elegant rooms of La of the building and
Rotonda, used for its leading person-
royal receptions, it alities as well as
is worth entering the key technical
this Neo-Classical and artistic parts of
building that has the theatre. Visitors
been lucky to sur- discover its secrets
vive. During the in stages, like watch-
Spanish Civil War ing the different
it was used as an 02 acts of an opera.

68
 my madrid

03

Samantha monumental build-

Vallejo-Nájera ings of the 15th, 16th
chef and 17th centuries
and some of the best
a place examples of Madrid
to meet Renaissance style.
When meeting There is a painters’
my friends I like to market in the Plaza
go to Norte y Sur del Conde de Barajas.
(Bravo Murillo, 97). The square leads
to Calle de la Pasa
and the Panecillo
I LOVE passageway, allud-
04 ing to the food the
“Going shop- monks used to hand

ping at the out to those who

assured them they
Active Cooking had attended mass.
store (Serrano, The more solemn
203). It’s looking Conde de

06
amazing.” Miranda square
serves as the
entrance to the
HIDDEN Convent of Las
CORNERS a secret Carboneras. Walking
The narrow streets of At the Beauty Party downwards, Plaza de
Hapsburg Madrid can at BajoBé (San la Cruz Verde absorbs
confuse even the best Gregorio, 5) you some of the festive
GPS, but indeed their can have a make- atmosphere from the
intention is to invite up session while La Latina neighbour-
05 people to lose them- drinking a cocktail. hood with its bars
selves. You are sure to and taverns offering a
01 the box The Teatro Real opened in 1850.
come across irresist- in madrid bite to eat at any time
02 long history Plaza de Isabel II once
hosted travelling theatre groups. ibly charming hidden you can... of the day. However,
03 hidden spot Plaza del Conde de Miranda. squares, each of them Run in a popular this spot hides a sin-
04 centre of power Plaza de la Villa was with a story to tell. race dressed as ister past. The green
home to the City Hall.
The most clearly visi- Father Christmas: cross was used by the
05 artists’ square Conde de Barajas.
06 a quiet corner Plaza de Ramales is ble one is Plaza de la the San Silvestre Inquisition to mark
presided over by the Velázquez Cross. Villa, surrounded by race. Great. the site for executions.

69
 HAPSBURG

GASTROBAR
HOPPING
What is a gastrobar?
It is described as a
bar-restaurant that
brings haute-cui-
sine to the general
public, serving
signature tapas
dishes at afforda-
ble prices. There
is a variety of such
establishments in the
Hapsburg district.
One of the culinary
epicentres lies around
Calle de Santiago, an
inviting pedestrian
street leading onto
others lined with
eateries serving deli-
cious cuisine. They 01
sit alongside taverns
serving traditional fare
with the beer barrel
ready to pull a beer
with just the right
head of froth. There’s
no need to stick to
one establishment,
so why not hop from
one to another. Of
course there are also
bars serving spirits. In
case you didn’t know,
Madrid is one of the
cities that serves
some of the best
G&Ts in the world. 02

70
a tip /:D>:@NB=>=MHNKH?MABL=BLMKB<MMHgG=HNMFHK>:;HNMBMLABLMHKR
 my madrid

Fernando
Torres
footballer

my gym
Nine Fitness,
in Paseo de
las Acacias,
3. It has 2,000
square metres
in which to tone
and build your
strength and
endurance, with
dance, cardi-
IN THE SQUARES
AND LABYRINTH ovascular and
OF STREETS IN THE mind & body
HAPSBURG DISTRICT
activities.
YOU CAN DINE ON
DELICIOUS FOOD AT 04
GREAT PRICES
VICENTE
CALDERÓN
STADIUM
“It was my
home, where
I grew up.
Whenever I am
in Madrid I
try to visit it.”

03 my stadium
I spent my child-
01 a charming street café The Café del
hood in Fuenlabra-
Nuncio is to be found on Calle de Segovia.
02 tapas tasting There are several da and my school
gastrobars around Plaza de Santiago. friends live there.
03 wine tasting Great Spanish wines. It’s an honour
04 a glass of beer Places offering
for me that they
traditional Spanish flavours.
05 teashops Inside and out, these local named the town’s
establishments are always inviting. stadium after me. 05

71
 HAPSBURG

TRACES
OF HISTORY
The Hapsburg
district is like a
3D history book.
Every step leads
to a plaque, ruin or
remains that reveal
the capital’s mag-
nificent past. The
first you will notice 01
is the remains of
the Arab Wall in
Calle San Nicolás.
Madrid was origi-
nally called al-Mag- 02
rit, which means
fountain or spring.
Casa de los
Lujanes in Plaza
de la Villa is where 03
Francis I of France
was once held on. The building
captive after his clearly sums up
defeat at the Battle the features of
of Pavia. The neigh- Hapsburg archi-
bouring Casa de tecture; brickwork 04
Cisneros was built and granite walls,
by the nephew of sober façades with 01 hieronymite nuns This convent is known as Las Carboneras.
the powerful cardi- balconies, towers 02 the past The Arab Wall is the oldest consctruction in Madrid.
03 science The San Isidro Museum has a research team.
nal Cisneros, twice in each corner and
04 the exhibition The museum is devoted to the origins of the city.
the regent of the slate clad spires. 05 opened in 1956 Corral de la Morería is a tablao with a long history.
Kingdom of Castile The Monastery of 06 eating and dancing Café de Chinitas, known for its flamenco and rice.
in the 16th century. the Incarnation,
The Palace of San- adjacent to the III. The church has to as the Madrid prehistoric times
ta Cruz, the current Royal Alcazar, was a beautiful façade Baroque. The San up until the estab-
Foreign Ministry the work of Queen finished with a Isidro museum lishment of the
building, was once Margaret of Aus- simple pediment, displays the history Court in 1561 at the
the the Court pris- tria, wife of Philip a style referred of the city from decision of Philip II.

72
 a neigh-
bourhood

for pedestrians

IN SEARCH OF
THE MAGIC To make it eas-
Some of the biggest ier for visitors
names in flamenco to navigate the
have danced and twists and turns
continue to dance of the labyrinth
in the tablaos of that forms
Madrid. Because, the Hapsburg
despite this art being district, most
born in southern of its narrow,
Spain, it is here that
flamenco artists
establish their name
and seek fame. It’s worth
It is possible to eat or stopping
snack on tapas dur-
to observe
its building
ing the singing and
SOME OF THE
dancing floorshow. BIGGEST NAMES
Some of best known IN FLAMENCO fronts steeped
in history.
DANCE IN THE
flamenco venues are
TABLAOS OF
to be found in the MADRID
Hapsburg district.
One such place is the
legendary Corral de steep streets
la Morería, its walls 05 are closed
covered with photos off to traffic.
of the famous names Culminating
in flamenco who this pedes-
have performed here. trian-friendly
Las Tablas is a new process, Calle
arrival on the scene, Arenal, which
with an austere connects Ópera
stage and a spotlight with Sol, has
focused on the artist. become one of
Café de Chinitas, the town cen-
Torres Bermejas and tre’s main shop-
Las Carboneras com- ping streets
plete the flamenco since its pedes-
haunts in the area. 06 trianisation.

73
 shopping & leisure

food & drink

AU T H E N T I C
MADRID SOL
nightlife

sleeping

open all hours!

HERE’S
W H E R E I T A L L S TA R T S
This is where the ech- for some refresh-
oes of the Hapsburg ment. There is a huge
period meld with range of things to
Madrid’s bustling do in Sol: cinemas,
present-day life. The theatres, shops, exhi-
unique integrating bitions, pavement
nature of the maze cafés, bars, restau-
of streets around Sol rants, etc. Everything
links the capital’s past happens against
with its present. Any a backdrop of old
day of the week, at Castile, a setting in
any time of the day, which you will come 01
locals and tourists across every kind of
alike mingle on its artist in its squares volume and music to welcome the New epicentre of Madrid’s
busy streets, drawn and on street cor- to suit your mood. Year to the chimes of daily life perfectly
here by the sense of ners. As night falls, Christmas is the best the clock overlooking encapsulates the
history in its squares shops give way to holiday season for the square or to visit spirit of the capital.
and buildings. They pubs and nightclubs, visiting the neigh- the Christmas mar- Madrid revolves
come to spend the where it is not hard bourhood. Hundreds ket in Plaza Mayor. around Sol and Sol
afternoon shopping to find a place with of people flock to With thousands of brings warmth and
or to seek out a bar just the right lighting, Kilometre Zero in Sol visitors each year, this light to Madrid.

74
a must At Christmas, buy a memento from the market in Plaza Mayor.
 key words

PUERTA DEL SOL // PLAZA MAYOR

GIFTS // SHOPPING // MARKET // SOUVENIRS
HISTORY // STROLLING // COCIDO
GRAPES // CLOCK // NEW YEAR // CHIMES

T H E H E A RT The Clock Equestrian Statue

OF MADRID Thousands of Madrid of Charles III
The origins of Puerta residents and tourists Charles III was
del Sol, the geograph- congregate in Puerta known as “the best
ical centre and bus- del Sol in front ot the mayor of Madrid”
tling heart of Madrid, clock on the old Royal on account of his
date back to the 16th Post Office building efforts to modernise
century. Over the on 31 December the capital. The
years it has steadily every year to wel- statue’s current
accumulated many come in the New position was chosen
of the emblems Year by eating twelve by the population of
of the capital. grapes, one with each Madrid in a referen-
chime of the clock. dum. 02
The Bear and
Tree Statue 01 gastro-space San Miguel Market.
The statue of the 02 iron and glass The dome over the
entrance to Sol Metro station.
bear and the straw-
03 the symbol The Bear and Strawberry Tree
berry tree is not just statue is 4 metres high and weighs 20 tonnes.
the coat of arms of 04 sol Seeing in the new year.
Madrid, but also a 05 kilometre zero Puerta del Sol. 03 04
symbol of the city.
This stone and bronze
landmark has been
posing before the
cameras of millions
of people since 1967.

Kilometre Zero
All the radial roads in
Spain run from Sol,
their point of origin. A
plaque on the ground
in front of the old Roy-
al Post Office building
marks the exact spot
of Kilometre Zero. It
shows a map of Spain
and Portugal and the
Madrid coat of arms. 05

75
 SOL

P L A Z A M AY O R
With almost four
hundred years of
history witnessed
by its cobble
stones, Plaza Mayor
is the focal point of
traditional Madrid
and one of the most
enchanting places 01
in the capital.
It is a recognisable the equestrian
emblem of the statue of Philip III,
city and a popular to sample a tra-
meeting place. ditional bocadillo
Under its arcades, de calamares, a
the square is fried squid roll, to
home to shops 02 relax in one of the
selling handicrafts, open-air cafés, or
souvenirs, coins, leads to the street to watch the artists
stamps and hats, as of the same name. working on the
well as cafés, bars The historic build- cobbled pavement.
and restaurants. ings surrounding A trip here is dou-
It was built on the the square include bly attractive in
orders of Philip II the Casa de la December when
when he moved his Carnicería and the Christmas
Court to Madrid, the Casa de la market sets up its
although it has Panadería, rec- stalls to sell a wide
earlier origins as a ognisable by the selection of nativity
medieval square frescos adorning scene pieces and
called Arrabal, once their façades. other Christmas
the town’s market. It is here that the 03 decorations.
Access to the Plaza Mayor Tourist
01 survivor The square has survived three big fires.
square is through Centre is located. 02 scale Plaza Mayor is 129 metres long and 94 metres wide.
one of its nine Today it continues 03 callejón de san ginés Close to Plaza Mayor.
entrances, of which to be a much fre- 04 century-old establishments Seseña has been selling capes since 1901.
the most famous quented spot with 05 for the sweet-toothed At La Mallorquina you will find all sorts of pastries.
06 trends Calle Preciados is home to many of the major fashion chains.
is the Arco de los people coming 07 odds and ends Businesses going back over a century in Calle Pontejos.
Cuchilleros that here to admire 08 founded in 1868 La Filatelia Gálvez is the oldest stamp dealer in Spain.

76
 my madrid

E;>KMHAB<HM>
chef

a well-kept
secret
Not that it is
unknown, but I
think the Sorolla
Museum is not
04 recommended 07
quite enough.

A FREE
T R E AT
08

05
SHOPPING to be shops to suit
PA R A D I S E every taste, from
The streets sur- the latest fashion
rounding Puerta stores to hundred
del Sol are some year-old establish-
of Madrid’s busiest ments. These long
shopping thorough- standing shops
fares. Many of the include the Filatelia
shops are concen- Gálvez stamp dealer,
trated around three the Gabriel Molina
streets: Calle Arenal, and Nicolás Moya
Preciados and Calle bookshops and the
del Carmen. Antigua Relojería,
The diversity and selling clocks. Shops
eclectic nature of selling items of tra-
the area means ditional local folklore
that there are sure abound: you can
“The mural
paintings by
Goya in San
06 GMHGBH=>E:
buy fans, combs and !EHKB=:<A:I>E s
mantillas at Casa
de Diego and M. Gil
Sucesor de Antolín a place to go
Quevedo, and fla- back to
menco parapherna- A stroll through the
lia at Maty. If fin de Prado Museum,
siècle fashion is more the Botanical Gar-
your thing, pick up a dens and Cuesta
hat from Casa Yustes de Moyano.
to don with a cape
acquired from Ses- somewhere
eña. For those with to eat
more distinguished My favourite res-
tastes, Joyería Riv- taurant is Sacha
ière jewellers offer (Juan Hurtado de
a large selection of Mendoza, 11).
watches, diamonds
and old jewellery.
Another jewellery
option is Bisutería
Otero, which sells
typical items and vin-
tage collections.
If its gifts you are
looking for, there are
dozens of souvenir
shops all around
Plaza Mayor. Those
wishing to go home
with a delicious
taste in their mouth
should visit one of
the traditional cake
shops, or any of the
establishments sell-
ing Ibérico hams and
sausages or locally
made liqueurs.

side by side $GM>KG:MBHG:EgKFLLM:G=LB=>;RLB=>PBMA<>GMNKB>LHE=>LM:;EBLAF>GML 77

GO FOR
A STROLL 01
There is no better
way to discover
the area around
Sol than on foot.
Behind the north-
ern side of Plaza
Mayor lies La
Plaza de la Villa.
This site, today
quite an unas-
suming square,
was once a major
focal point in
Madrid on account
of its location.
Wandering around
the old quarter you
can see different
architectural styles
and a monument
to the Spanish 24-HOUR to eat. The morning
admiral Don Álva- 02 F L AV O U R S shift is attended by
ro de Bazán. In the centre of the early-risers, the
01 colourful The Ideal Cinema with its
From Sol, Calle eye-catching stained glass windows. Madrid it is possible church-goers of the
Carretas leads up 02 a classic The statue of a street-sweeper to savour the history San Ginés church
to Plaza Jacinto in Plaza Jacinto Benavente. and literature of and chocolate lovers.
03 for gourmets San Miguel Market.
Benavente, home the city with each
04 lhardy Home of the cocido.
to one of the first 05 around the clock Chocolatería San bite, from breakfast Lunch
cinemas in the cap- Ginés offers sweet snacks 24 hours a day. through to dinner. If there is one dish
ital, which currently that is typical of win-
shows original ver- tery stands in contains an impor- Breakfast ter in Madrid, that is
sion films, houses the square of tant collection The Chocalatería San cocido, a hearty meat
a theatre and hosts the same name of paintings and Ginés is a meeting of vegetable and
temporary arts just off Callao. tapestries, as well point for night owls chickpea stew, and a
and crafts fairs. Founded by Joan- as a permanent and artists who, after popular place to eat it
The Descalzas na of Austria, this exhibition that is a long night, drop in is at Lhardy. Opened
Reales Monas- classicist building open to the public. for something hot in 1839, Isabel II and

78
a tip Don’t leave without sampling the battered squid rolls and churros with hot chocolate.
 IN THE
MOOD FOR A
SOL
IN SAN MIGUEL MAR-

party
KET YOU CAN SAM-
PLE THE DELICIOUS
FOOD SERVED UP AT
ANY OF ITS STALLS,
INCLUDING REGION-
AL AND INTERNA-
TIONAL DISHES
Sol is also a good
place for night life.
As the traditional
businesses pull
down their shut-
ters, the hubbub
shifts from the
square to the 05
neighbouring
Alfonso XII used to
visit it incognito.
Lhardy is also famed
If you for its Madrid style
want a tripe, its meat broth

night on the and its wine cellar.

town the Afternoon snack

choice is Benito Pérez Galdós
endless entitled one of his
03 novels La Fontana de
Oro in honour of this
venue that opened
streets of Espoz y in the 18th century.
Mina, Cádiz and Vic- Today it is a pub that
toria, where you can is always crowded
sip a glass of wine when sports events
and nibble some are televised.
food in the many
bars and street Dinner
cafés. Nightclub-go- San Miguel Market
ers can dance the is the only one in
night away at Joy the capital that has
Eslava, a former the- conserved its original
atre converted into ironwork structure.
a discotheque, or at Inside you can sam-
El Sol, the birthplace ple delicious food,
of the Movida cul- served up at any of
04 tural scene. its stalls.

79
 shopping & leisure

food & drink

AU T H E N T I C
MADRID G R A N V Í A /A L C A L Á
nightlife

sleeping

the very heart

MAGIC CROSSROADS
Madrid boasts many olis building is like is pure Madrid. The Vía, a symbol of early midday; Gran Vía,
postcard-like views a lighthouse which stretch of Alcalá that 20th-century urban evening and night.
but the most spec- guides the people runs from Puerta de development, is One is aristocratic,
tacular is the junction streaming past one of Alcalá to Sol recalls synonymous with the other popular,
of Calle Alcalá and the busiest points in the capital’s tradi- musicals and the but both repre-
Gran Vía by night. the city. This is not by tions, its zarzuelas cinema. Alcalá is sent the essence
The floodlit Metróp- chance: this crossing and the chotis. Gran the morning and of the city.

01

80
a must "K:;:<H??>>ZgG=:LIHMHG"K:G1¥::G=P:M<AMA>PHKE=@H;R
 key words

DOWNTOWN // ARCHITECTURE
24 HOURS // NIGHTLIFE // CINEMA // SHOPPING // CAFÉS
MUSICALS // ROOFTOPS
GASTRONOMY // BOUTIQUES // PEDESTRIAN ZONES
02

L E G E N DA RY
MONUMENTS
Walking along
Alcalá it’s hard not
to keep looking up
as you delight in its
monuments.
You are first met
with the imposing
Puerta de Alcalá,
followed by Plaza 05
de Cibeles, with the
majestic statue of
the goddess in the
middle, surrounded
by such historical
buildings as the
Bank of Spain.
On the way to Puer-
ta del Sol you will
pass the Círculo 03 06
de Bellas Artes, the
semi-circular Ban-
co Bilbao Building,
the San Fernando
Royal Academy of
Fine Arts and Casi-
no de Madrid.
Gran Vía is home
to various build-
ings that, in their 04 07
time, were at the
height of moder- tacular Telefónica gardens are flanked 01 spectacular Where Gran Vía meets Alcalá.
nity, including the skyscraper. This by Torre de Madrid, 02 plaza de callao Pedestrianised square.
Metrópolis and thoroughfare ends Edificio España and 03 & 04 telefónica building A space for art,
a symbol of Madrid.
Madrid-París build- in front of the Casa Gallardo, a 05 shopping Boutique on Gran Vía.
ings, Cine Callao, impressive mon- symbol of the cap- 06 sleeping Blocks full of hostels.
Palacio de la Pren- uments in Plaza ital’s art nouveau 07 grassy This classic store lends its name to
sa and the spec- de España, whose architecture. the building, one of the first on Gran Vía.

81
 01

FOOTLIGHTS
AND NEON
LIGHTS
Cosmopolitan and
slightly tongue-in-
cheek, Gran Vía
is a blaze of light
at night. Theatres
which used to be
cinemas and vice
versa abound on
the streets between
Callao and Plaza de
España, announc-
ing their musicals,
homegrown and
imported, on
giant billboards.
Meanwhile, smaller
venues revive medi-
um-format shows,
in Madrid’s version
of “off-Broadway”
theatre. Cinemas
have replaced their
old printed posters
with multiple LED
screens in the
pedestrianised
Plaza de Callao,
increasingly the
place for premieres, 02
red carpet included.
01 cine capitol Both it and the building it’s in date back to 1933.
The top floor of El 02 at your feet View from Gourmet Experience at El Corte Inglés.
Corte Inglés, refur- 03 premieres Cines Callao hosts many important events.
bished as the Gour- 04 bustling Gran Vía, full of people around Plaza de Callao.
05 shopping Shop windows dominate both streets.
met Experience
06 spectacular interiors The Loewe store on Gran Vía.
multispace, wows 07 storytelling At the Telefónica Foundation.
with its views. 03 08 a good read A glance inside La Central bookshop.

82
 GRAN VÍA
ALCALÁ

SHOP
T I L L YO U
DROP
The Alcalá-Gran
Vía artery is also
a shopping mec-
ca. This is hardly
surprising given it
is home to retail
establishments
ranging from
flagship bou-
tiques to leading
department stores.
From fashion and
footwear to books
(in every lan-
04 guage), music (any
genre), gadgets
(laptops and
mobile phones),
the list goes on.

Niche
shops
In such a central
location it’s nice to
still find small spe-
06 cialist shops only
selling ties, watch-
es, soap, stationery
and, of course,
souvenirs. Like the
rest of the region,
this part of Madrid
enjoys unrestricted
opening hours,
so you can shop
05 07 08 seven days a week.

experience 1B>PMA>EB@AMLBG:EE:H?KHFMA>MHIhHHKH? EHKM>$G@E¡L 83

 GRAN VÍA
ALCALÁ

CHEF PACO
RONCERO HAS
BEEN AT THE HELM
OF MADRID’S LA
TERRAZA DEL
CASINO KITCHEN
FOR MANY YEARS

01

84
a tip If you fancy a drink, head to any of the bars on Plaza de la Independencia.
 my madrid

02

Ouka Lele MEALS

photographer
A N D S NAC K S
In Gran Vía you
a delightful can eat and drink
spot whenever you like.
There are so You can have a bite
many… A current to eat at any of its
favourite is the bars and restau-
roof terrace of rants and there is
the Círculo de an excellent choice
Bellas Artes. in nearby streets.
Thanks to Madrid’s
great weather
O R I G I NA L and vast outdoor
MADRID seating capacity,
people flock to the
“Drinking open-air terraces
water from La of fast food chains
Fuente de la and exclusive
03
Salud, a real restaurants alike.
You can choose
spring in Par- between the
que del Oeste.” elegant covered
terraces in Plaza de
la Independencia,
lost in where customers
the city don their finest
I like wandering and socialise the
around as if I evening away,
was in a city I’d and the bars on
04 05 never been to Gran Vía, which
before. are popular for a
01 innovative cuisine Terraza del Casino on Calle de Alcalá.
quick drink. Neigh-
02 nightfall View from inside José Alfredo, one of the city’s top cocktail
bars, just off Gran Vía. personal bouring areas
03 classic chicote A visit to the Museo Chicote cocktail bar is a must. favourite like Chueca and
One of the oldest in Madrid, stars like Frank Sinatra and Ava Gardner I love Malasaña are full
have passed through its doors.
the centre and of suitable venues
04 chic A glimpse inside the Ramsés restaurant, one of the best known
in Plaza de la Independencia. exploring it on if you are planning
05 for all tastes Dinner and a cocktail? Delicious choices abound. foot. a longer night out.

85
UP ON THE
ROOF
The fact that much
of the historical
centre of Madrid
is located around
Alcalá and Gran Vía
makes them excel-
lent viewpoints.
The Círculo de
Bellas Artes terrace
is up there with
the best, not only
for the views it
offers of Plaza de
Cibeles and the
Literary Quarter
but also because
visitors can marvel
at one of the finest
examples of archi-
tecture in the city.
The same goes for
the spectacular
rooftop at Casino
de Madrid, which
diners can enjoy
from its exclusive
restaurant.
Elsewhere in Gran
Vía a fair number of 01
hotels have given
their roofs a face-
01 emperador hotel Photo of the spectacular pool on the roof of this Gran Vía hotel, with buildings
lift, making them in Plaza de España in the background.
perfect places for 02 puerta de alcalá There are exceptionally wide pavements where Calle de Alcalá passes this
lunch, dinner or monumental gate.
03 ada palace hotel Círculo de Bellas Artes and the Metrópolis building seen from the rooftop restaurant.
a cocktail. Some
04 plaza de los cubos Just off Gran Vía, this square, with its cube-shaped sculpture, marks the
offer live music and start of Calle Princesa.
others provide a 05 & 06 with subtitles Outside and inside the Cines Princesa building, where films in original version are shown.

86
 my madrid

GRAN VÍA
ALCALÁ

Juan Echanove
actor

where
inspiration
strikes
On the corner of
Alcalá and Gran
Vía, viewed from
02 Cibeles.

AN 04
ENTICING
PLACE

“The Museum
of Romanticism
on Calle San
03
Mateo.” 05 06

pool and loungers FURTHER leading brands. has its share of

for the warm sum- what’s AFIELD It also has connec- top-name stores.
mer nights. Spend- new? These two thor- tions with histori- Although Gran Vía
ing an evening on I’ve started oughfares owe cal Madrid, as one is famous for its
one of them shopping at San some of their side of it borders cinemas showing
while you have Miguel market. character to the the Literary Quar- original version
a few drinks is areas that sur- ter, bohemian, films, some can
an experience it’s been round them. traditional and be found in the
you must enjoy ages since Alcalá is glamor- secluded, with a streets on the
at least once. I visited the Zoo ous like the Sala- history dating back other side of Pla-
This new trend and Amusement manca district, hundreds of years. za de España.
allows you to Park. one of the first Gran Vía, mean- Indeed, both
view the city’s areas of expan- while, is noctur- destinations are
rooftops and in madrid sion in the city, nal thanks to what they are
enjoy the beauty of it’s free where you’ll find its neighbours because of what
the Madrid sky as To walk around El most of Madrid’s Malasaña and surrounds them
never before. Retiro Park. boutiques selling Chueca, but it also and vice versa.

in the moment Enjoy Madrid’s memorable sunsets from the rooftops. 87

 food & drink

art & culture

AU T H E N T I C
MADRID L A L AT I NA
shopping & leisure

nightlife

to be seen!
STREET LIFE

La Latina, with Here tradition and

its lively street the 21st century
vibe, is probably combine, with
Madrid’s most mansions and old
popular district. inns, churches and
No other so suc- modern shops,
cessfully combines narrow streets and
such a wide vari- vast squares, mar-
ety of features. kets and bars, and,
Its name harks above all, tapas
back to the time and street life.
of Queen Isabella, On Sundays it’s
as ‘La Latina’ was packed with people:
the nickname first stop the Rastro
of her classical market followed 01
language teacher, by a quality bite to
Beatriz Galindo, eat and vice versa. can stroll through during the Festivi- ditionally dressed
but the area’s During the week the neighbour- ties of La Paloma at chulapos sharing
past and present is good too, when hood’s pedestri- the end of summer, the bar, and when
have a decidedly there are fewer anised squares. when you can find Madrid is more
popular flavour. around, and you It’s at its liveliest hipsters and tra- Madrid than ever.

88
a must Enjoy a few beers and some tapas in the classic La Latina bars.
 key words

TRADITIONAL // TAPAS // SQUARES

CHULAPOS // SAN ISIDRO // LA PALOMA // EL RASTRO
STREET LIFE // BARS // CAFÉS
GARDENS // URBAN ART // MARKETS

07

featuring highly
original com-
binations, plus
establishments
preparing the all-
time favourites.
And you can enjoy
02 all this indoors
or out: although
the streets are
narrow, there is
plenty of room for
outdoor seating
06 in the squares.
At weekends you
TA PA S of this delicious may have a wait
WITH A tradition you for a table, but
DIFFERENCE should head to two Monday to Friday
03 04 Such world famous parallel streets: offers the same
Spanish concepts Cava Baja and delicious food
as paella and the Cava Alta. and no crowds.
siesta have been The streets slope This is a great
joined by tapas, down, recalling place for breakfast,
those tasty snacks the streams that whether you want
that allow you used to run along a full English or the
to go from bar them, and are lined Spanish version
05 to bar without with taverns, wine of a pastry dipped
drinking on an shops and res- in coffee, and,
01 tapas central Carrera de San Francisco.
02 see the streets On foot or on wheels. empty stomach. taurants ranging above all, to have
03 beer and cocktails Places to enjoy a beer In La Latina the from established dinner, enjoying
or a gin and tonic abound. choice of tapas is classics like Casa the atmosphere
04 modern It's home to designer bars too.
as varied as the Lucio to bars of a district unlike
05 casa lucio A must-visit classic.
06 three floors El Viajero has a unique roof terrace. number of bars. offering bite-sized anywhere else
07 peckish? The variety of tapas is excellent. To find the origins montaditos, some in the world.

89
 L A L AT I NA

CLASSIC
SKYLINE
Some of Madrid's
oldest and best
known monuments
are to be found in La
Latina.
For example, the
Basilica of San Fran-
cisco el Grande, a
wonderful 18th-cen-
tury church, has a
dome whose diam-
eter is the third larg-
est in the world.
The building con-
tains paintings by
Goya and Zurbarán.
Smaller but just
as interesting
is San Pedro el IN THE DISTRICT
Viejo, topped by a GREAT HISTORICAL
BUILDINGS AND
14th-century Mudé- NEW, MODERN
jar tower. ARCHITECTURAL
Other churches WORK STAND
SIDE BY SIDE
include San Andrés,
with strong links
to the history of
Madrid, as the city's
patron saint, Isidore
the Farmer, attend- surviving examples
01 el mercado de abastos gets a new look In 2013 Mercado de la
ed there. of late Gothic art in Cebada, one of Madrid's largest markets, received a face-lift. The
Another spectacular Madrid. Boa Mistura art collective gave its domes bright new colours.
building stands in And, of course, 02 rich history King Alfonso XII inaugurated Mercado de la Cebada in
1875.
Plaza de la Paja: there is the San 03 trade centre in the middle ages Plaza de la Paja, surrounded by
Capilla del Obispo is Miguel Basilica, an large buildings like Capilla del Obispo, was a hub of activity in
a huge 16th-century outstanding piece Madrid for many centuries.
chapel containing of Spanish Baroque 04 known by few The Príncipe de Anglona gardens are a delightful green
space tucked away between Calle Segovia and Plaza de la Paja.
some of the finest architecture.

90
 my madrid

Mara Torres
journalist

to meet
up with
friends
I love the local
fare at Rita Sibari-
ta (Monasterio
de Las Huelgas, 04
9-13).
As you walk round
the district you can
THE BEST find remains of the
THING old Arab wall (even
FOR ME inside buildings,
open to visitors),
“I never gardens (Príncipe
get tired of de Anglona is one
walking round of the finest), mar-

Madrid." kets (Mercado de

la Cebada boasts
impressive domes),
theatres (La Latina
recently i theatre is one of the
found out oldest), and many
that you other fascinating
can... details.
01 Go to houses However, La Latina
where they put is really a monu-
on a different play ment in itself: to
in each room. appreciate this
you need to walk
getting away through squares like
from it all Cebada, Paja and
A walk in the Alamillo, and go up
mountains, be and down the steps
it Navacerrada, around Calle del
02 03 Pedriza... Nuncio.

91
 05

01

their trade there.

It is undoubtedly
the city's biggest 06
outdoor market,
famous throughout many neighbouring
Spain. On Sundays streets are also
visitors can find part of the market,
all sorts of sec- creating a network
02 03 ond-hand goods of small special-
and clothes there. ist shops which
MADRID'S Make a little bet open throughout
LARGEST with yourself: the week, selling
O P E N-A I R think of the most everything from
MARKET unlikely object bric-a-brac to
The Rastro flea mar- and when you get fine antiques.
ket is over 270 years there ask around The area also
old. Its name comes to see if anyone boasts the city's
from the traces of can sell you it. biggest con-
blood left by the You're almost guar- centration of
animals being taken 04 anteed to find one. antique dealers.
from the old local Most of the stalls What's more, you
abattoir, while the 01 you name it The Rastro sells home appli- (each with its num- can rest your tired
street in which it is ances, books, vinyls, comics, the list goes on. ber marked on the feet with a well-de-
located, Ribera de 02 browsing A great place to shop and stroll. paving) stretch served break at any
03 antiquarians Antique furniture shops.
Curtidores, refers from Ronda de of the authentic
04 not just stalls There are shops too.
to the tanners 05 not just retro Modern designs too. Toledo to Plaza Madrid taverns that
who used to ply 06 pavements Interesting items line the streets. de Coscorro, but dot its streets.

92
a tip -NFF:@>MA>LM:EEL:MMA>-:LMKH:G=gG=MA:MLHF>MABG@LI><B:E

CHULAPOS
AND
MANOLAS
La Latina is pure
Madrid and its
fiestas are a mag-
nificent display of
traditional customs:
don't miss the fes-
tivities of San Isidro
and La Paloma, the
city's patron saints.
Chulapos and
manolas (men and
women dressed in
traditional attire),
the chotis dance,
Manila shawls hang-
ing from balconies,
lanterns and local
culinary specialities
including zarajos
and gallinejas, tripe
and fried squid. On
these dates, Madrid
is in celebration
mode and nowhere
more so than in La
Latina.
The evening before
the festival of La
Paloma is the occa-
sion for the liveliest,
most spectacular
celebration. 01
The fun continues 02
03
for several days
04
around 15 August. 05
Local residents 06
L A L AT I NA
01
06
set up bars in the
street, where pas-
sers-by can eat and
drink. There is no
02 excuse for not danc-
ing, whether you opt
for the traditional
chotis, dance to the
music relayed over
the loudspeakers
set up on the front
of buildings, or go
to a live concert by
one of the groups
playing on the stage
in Plaza de Las Vis-
03 tillas.
The San Isidro fes-
tivities take place
around the saint's
feast day on 15 May.
Although events
are held in the
04 05 fields of San Isidro
in the Carabanchel
tradition The streets are full of traditional costumes. district, food and
san isidro Locals love to dress up as chulapos and chulapas. drink is also put on
non-stop Places to eat and dance during the festivities abound.
at stands in Cornisa
giants and bigheads These unusual figures can be seen in May.
crowds La Latina's streets are packed during its festivals. park and Las Vis-
late nights Summer goes into the early hours in the area's squares. tillas.
93
 MADRID UP CLOSE

A LWAY S S U R P R I S I N G green spaces

C R E AT E Y O U R O W N V E R S I O N O F T H E C I T Y food & drink

MADRID ADAPTS TO YOU. IF IT’S SPORT YOU’RE AFTER,
H E A D F O R M A D R I D R Í O . A D U LT S A N D C H I L D R E N A L I K E shopping & leisure
W I L L LO V E C A S A D E C A M P O . S H O P P I N G A N D C U LT U R E
art & culture
AWA I T Y O U I N T H E SA L A M A N C A D I ST R I C T. A N D L E T T H E
LITERARY QUARTER ENTICE YOU WITH ITS BOHEMIAN nightlife
AIR AND GOURMET PLEASURES.
children
94
 LITERARY CASA DE
SALAMANCA MADRID RÍO
QUARTER CAMPO

lope de vega

“THERE IS NO 96 literary quarter Cobbled streets
TOWN I FIND steeped in history. Gastrobars, interior
MORE PLEASANT, decoration stores and outdoor cafés.
BEAUTIFUL AND 104 salamanca Leading boutiques and lux-
OPPORTUNE” ury restaurants enliven this constantly
renewed traditional district.
110 madrid río The city is developing a new
look on both banks of the Manzanares.
To discover with the family.
116 casa de campo Madrid’s green lung
is always hosting activities. A stone’s
throw from the city centre.

on two wheels Many of Madrid’s districts have bike lanes.

95
 art & culture

MADRID food & drink

UP LITERARY QUARTER
CLOSE shopping & leisure

nightlife

BOHEMIAN MADRID grab it! art, fine food and
IN FULL SWING Madrid’s history.
The Literary Quarter
breathes literature
and theatre, but
also art and pho-
tography; people
gobble up the
atmosphere in
traditional inns as
well as in the new
venues opened by
chefs at the top of
their game;
shoppers browse
01 in the dozens of
antique and
The history of the in true Madrid tradi- Sol, this area is even collectors’ shops,
Literary Quarter tion and in the most livelier than ever but also in the
(Barrio de las modern urban style. and has become a trendiest boutiques.
Letras) has been Set in one of the magnet for tourists It’s all there to enjoy
written in prose and city’s nerve centres, and locals alike, and experience by
verse, in the best between the Art all drawn here to day and by night,
Golden Age dramas, Walk and Puerta del experience culture, because this
part of Madrid
never sleeps.
It’s a hive of
activity and a haven
of peace at the
same time, and an
ideal place for wan-
dering around the
maze of streets at
any time of day and
seeing how tradi-
tion and moder-
nity have found
the perfect blend.
Because, as in the
Golden Age plays
that were written
here, the Literary
Quarter is universal,
remains fashionable,
and has lost none
of its flavour
and originality
over the years.

96
a must Feel the city’s heartbeat in one of the open-air bars in Santa Ana.
 key words

ANTIQUES // WRITERS
GOURMET VENUES // SHOPPING // ART // MARKET
DESIGN // NEW CREATIVE ARTISTS
GOLDEN AGE // LOPE DE VEGA // CERVANTES
02

favourite place to
stay among bullfight-
ers appearing in Las
Ventas bullring.
The other is the
Teatro Español.
Based in what was
previously known
04 as the Corral del
Príncipe, this is the
A C U LT U R A L oldest theatre in
H E A RT W I T H Europe and has
F L AV O U R hosted works by the
If there’s one place great Golden Age
that embodies the writers, including
Literary Quarter to Lope de Vega, who
perfection, it’s the was a local resident.
area’s beating heart: Nowadays, and
Plaza de Santa Ana. despite undergoing
It doesn’t only serve 14 refurbishments
as the neighbour- and 2 fires, it is still
hood’s backbone, it Spain’s most distin-
has also seen the guished theatre.
city’s history unfold But Plaza de
and witnessed Santa Ana is full of
modernisation flavour as well as
and renovation. art and culture.
This pleasant square The square groups
with its busy open-air together a great
bars, where you can sample of the fine
do what the locals do food and drink avail-
and have a few beers able in the local area.
with some tapas, From traditional
03 contains two of the taverns, where drinks
most emblematic are always accom-
01 santa ana The square was built on the site occupied by a convent. buildings in Madrid. panied by olives and
02 a view over the city If you want to admire fabulous views over the
One is the ME a few anchovies, to
city, climb up to The Roof terrace at Hotel ME.
03 open-air bars Santa Ana is one of Madrid’s most vibrant squares. Madrid Hotel, which the most innovative
04 corral de comedias The first Spanish theatre venue dates back to 1565. for decades was a gourmet treats.

97
 LITERARY
QUARTER
A L I T E R A RY
JOURNEY
It couldn’t be
any other way.
Literature, muses
and writers have all
played leading roles
in this part of Madrid.
You see traces of
them everywhere, on
the famous and now
pedestrianised Calle
de las Huertas; in the
dozens of antique
booksellers, and in
buildings where illus-
trious writers such as
Lope de Vega, Cer-
vantes, Quevedo and
Góngora once lived.
But on this liter-
ary route there are
a few places you
mustn’t miss.
For example, Lope
de Vega’s house, laid
out like a museum
where you can catch
a glimpse of the
dramatist’s home
life from 1610 up to
his death in 1635.
Following in the
footsteps of Miguel
de Cervantes, at
number 87 in Calle
Atocha you can see
the site of the former
printing press owned 02
98
by Juan de la Cierva,
where the first edi-
tion of part one of
Don Quixote
was printed, and
the literary genius
himself is buried in
the convent of the
Trinitarias Descalzas
de San Ildefonso.
Another impor-
tant church is
San Sebastián.
This is where Mor-
atín and Jacinto
Benavente were
baptised; Bécquer
and Larra were mar-
ried here, and Lope
de Vega, Espron-
ceda, architect
Ventura Rodríguez,
and painter Juan
Vicente Ribera are
all buried here.
Plus two other plac-
es: the Mentidero
01 de Representantes
was a public space
in Calle de León
where writers, actors
and other intellectu-
als would meet to
talk and while away
some time, and Calle
Álvarez Gato, an alley
which appears in
Luces de Bohemia,
03 by Valle-Inclán.
 my madrid

04

José Sacristán combines high

actor
quality photog-
raphy exhibitions
i didn’t know with a specialist
that in madrid book store and
you could... an ideal café for
Enjoy the Man- taking a break.
zanares river. Nowa- But before you finish
05 06 days it’s a pleasure here, have a look
to walk along the at other galleries
A RT river banks. running exhibition
B EYO N D A RT programmes that
Madrid’s other side highlight work by
has always held geniuses of painting,
PLACES
fantastic surprises. WITH sculpture and illus-
Behind the Art MEMORIES tration, because the
Walk and only a few Literary Quarter isn’t
metres away from “Local cinemas all about literature,
the great museums, always take it’s about art too.
the very latest
ground-breaking
me back to my An artistic experi-
ence coupled with
art plays an impor- childhood.” amazing spaces
tant role in the in galleries like
neighbourhood. Cámara Oscura,
Dozens of small which is your Ponce y Robles,
galleries provide a madrid? Art Room, My
showcase for new The one revolving name is Lolita Art
artistic trends and around the Haps- and Blanca Soto.
trailblazing crea- burg district, that All of them are
tive artists in the environment, essential stops on
07 area’s streets. that kind of life- your way around
Photography is one style… the area before you
01 on calle del prado The Ateneo de Madrid.
of the newest kids end up in Madrid’s
02 cafés with history Galdós started writ-
ing his first novel in La Fontana de Oro. on the block and first visit best creative culture
03 lope de vega house-museum Library. is based right next If I want to sur- laboratory, Media-
04 young artists In the Blanca Soto gallery. door to CaixaForum. prise someone, Lab Prado, based in
05 medialab An experimental centre.
In a functional and there’s nowhere a beautifully refur-
06 la fábrica The bookshops sells signature
wines, flowers and decorative items. permanently lively better than the bished former saw-
07 public MediaLab is open to everyone. space, La Fábrica Prado Museum. mill, Serrería Belga.

99
 LITERARY
QUARTER ON THE FIRST
SATURDAY OF EACH
MONTH, LOCAL
SHOPKEEPERS
BRING THEIR STOCK
OUT ONTO THE
INTERIOR STREET
D E S I G N S PA C E
Mercado de las
Ranas market is held
on the first Saturday
of each month.
The shopkeepers in
this part of Madrid
bring their com-
mercial, cultural,
gastronomic and
artistic wares out
onto the streets, like
Calle Lope de Vega
(formerly known as
Calle Cantarranas,
from which the mar-
ket takes its name).
Antiques and home
decoration products
are a big draw, as
the neighbour- 01
hood is packed with
specialist shops.
Furniture, vintage
and modern pieces,
but also fashion,
accessories and
delicatessen foods
all line the streets,
keeping this increas-
ingly popular
tradition alive.
Authentic retro
jewellery, the latest
designs, exclusive
discounts, art,
toys and a festive
atmosphere all 02

100
a tip Come here for a drink and some tapas while you wander round vintage shops.
 my madrid

Amaya
Azruaga
designer

to
surprise
someone
I take them to
visit the Ateneo
at Calle del
Prado, 31.

A C A P T I VA T -
ING PLACE

“The views
from the terrace
at the Ada
Palace hotel on
Gran Vía.” 04

blend together in stores, the area has

a little the streets, along amassed a huge
known place with play activities number of shops
in madrid for kids and adults, displaying the excel-
The wonderful including theatre lent quality of Span-
hidden galleries performances, con- ish interior design.
still to be found in certs and workshops. It’s well worth for-
03 some of the court- But what’s really getting about the
yards in Lavapíes. great about the Liter- time and wandering
01 a vintage touch In Passage Privé you can
ary Quarter is the around these interior
buy antique furniture.
02 at a good price In Las Ranas Market you good places variety and original- design, furniture and
can get big discounts. to go ity of the shopping antique shops to
03 an open-air gallery Local shops set shopping experience, with a explore new trends,
up their own stalls on the street.
In Calle Barquillo, high concentration wonderful vintage
04 more than shopping Fairs and
workshops are held in the Fernando VI , of antique shops. pieces and objects
neighbourhood. Argensola... Apart from book- with lots of character.

101
 the neighbour-
hood on foot

explore it

THE SOUNDS
O F WO R DS A perfect low cost
At night, the Liter- plan invites you
ary Quarter is filled to wander around
with live music, in 01 the narrow alley-
every imaginable ways. Some plac-
style. Although one es are essential
sound that has def- for taking a break,
initely found itself a like the charming
niche in this part of open-air bars in
Madrid is jazz. 02
There’s a good
choice of venues where everyone is
where you can welcome. 4HNqEEgG=
listen to live jazz Early or late, in the G>P;HNMBJN>
music, including
the legendary Café
Literary Quarter
there’s always
hotels
Central, near Plaza somewhere you can ;E>G=BG@
de Santa Ana, a have fun. Bars, pubs =>LB@G:G=
Madrid classic with and discos are oth- comfort
more than 30 years er features of this
of daily concerts. night tour, which
It has staged has to include a
performances by few mojitos on any Plaza de la Plat-
leading names like of its terraces and ería and Plaza de
Lou Bennett, Tete a drink overlook- Matute.
Montoliú, Sam ing one of the best And Calle Moratín
Rivers and George views of Madrid at 03 is a pretty street
Adams. The Roof, on the you shouldn’t
But this isn’t the rooftop of the ME 01 for over 30 years They’ve been playing forget. Hipster
only music played Hotel. jazz at Café Central in Plaza del Ángel. trends attract
in this neighbour- This terrace has 02 pure jazz At Café Populart, in Huertas. passers-by in
03 live There are concerts every day.
hood, you can listen become one of the places like craft-
04 gastrobar You can try Paco Roncero’s
to Flamenco, pop, coolest places in cuisine in Estado Puro. cafés, glamorous
rock and fusion in Madrid for its exclu- 05 charm Lamucca del Prado is a meeting opticians, classic
other clubs, bars sive clientèle, its place for theatre folk. motorbike and
06 a classic Cervecería La Alemana.
and cafés, mak- premium cocktails bicycle work-
07 traditional tavern La Casa del Abuelo
ing this part of the and its gourmet is one of the oldest and most traditional. shops and fantas-
city a popular spot tapas menu. 08 designer tapas The most innovative cuisine. tic toy shops.

102

GASTROFUSION
The Literary Quarter
has somewhere to
suit every palate.
You can savour the
most traditional
local fare alongside
the coolest and
most international
dishes. The combi-
nation of both styles
is the best option
for a gourmet route
that scores 10 out
of 10.
Your route might
start in one of
the city’s leading
taverns, like Casa
Alberto, a slice
of Madrid history
that used to be an
inn (it’s where Cer- 06 07
LITERARY
QUARTER
vantes wrote the
second part of
Don Quixote) and is
the best place for a
vermouth; or in La
Alemana, a legend-
ary beer house and
favourite haunt of
writers like
Hemingway and
Valle-Inclán.
But the vast range
of gourmet treats
isn’t limited to the
04 area’s age-old bars.
Top chefs like Sergi
Arola and Paco Ron-
cero have opened
gastrobars serving
their best crea-
tions at affordable
prices, providing
an alternative with
new approaches to
food served up in
modern and impec-
cably designed
spaces, the perfect
05 combination. You
can accompany
your snacks with
fine wines and
mojitos, or discover
exotic gastronomic
delights, because
food from nearly
every country in the
world has found a
08 niche here.
103
 shopping & leisure

MADRID food & drink

UP SALAMANCA
CLOSE children

green spaces

a luxury !
M A D R I D AT
ITS MOST EXCLUSIVE
This is Madrid’s ion stores, high-end ings with elegant
quintessential resi- restaurants, bars façades, lots of
dential area, a hive to see and be seen sophisticated bou-
of activity with a in, beauty salons, tiques and areas
traditional flavour. antique dealers humming with cre-
It’s a mix of and much more. ativity, such as the
everything and Its two main thor- little narrow street
always has a sur- oughfares are Calle of Jorge Juan.
prise up its sleeve. de Serrano and All framed by wide
The shopping here Calle de Velázquez. tree-lined pave-
is astounding, with In between lies a ments that are
world famous fash- network of build- pedestrian heaven.

01

104
d o n ’ t l e av e w i t h o u t Going into the designer shops in Calle de Serrano and Calle de Ortega y Gasset.
 key words

STATELY // FASHION // LUXURY

RESTAURANTS // GALLERIES // BOUTIQUES // JEWELLERS
SHOPPING // EXCLUSIVE BRANDS
EMBASSIES // MUSEUMS // MARKETS
02 03

04

THE GOLDEN to the shop window doesn’t lag behind,

MILE displays. it’s the spot with
Get your best walk- In Ortega y Gas- the biggest col-
ing shoes on, or set you can find a lection of interna-
take the bike and wealth of famous tionally renowned
use the cycle lane. brands, including brands.
Calle de José Orte- 05 gourmet food Traditional style
ga y Gasset and stores where you jewellers can also
Calle de Claudio en Mile, connected shopping an even can find the finest be found here.
Coello both contain by Calle Serrano, more tempting wines from all over Timeless values.
an area where big where wider pave- form of exercise, the world. Safe investments.
brand names and ments have made giving centre stage Calle de Serrano Just like the Corte
top designers from Inglés department
Spain and abroad 01 stately buildings Marqués de Hinojosa Palace in Calle Ortega y Gasset. store in Calle de
02 shopping destination Salamanca is the shopping district.
show off their latest Serrano, a premium
03 luxury Exclusive brand names line the Golden Mile.
creations. This is 04 easy access The pavements have been widened and a cycle lane added. shopping mecca for
the so-called Gold- 05 exclusive Luxury brands have opened shops in these streets. men’s fashion.

105
 SALAMANCA

FA B U L O U S
A L L E Y WAY S
The Salamanca
district arose in the
THE BEST WAY
same block where
OF ENJOYING
the tiny narrow MADRID’S SUN
street of Jorge Juan AND FINE FOOD
IS IN ONE OF ITS
is tucked away for
MANY OPEN-AIR
people to find it. BARS
The reason for ven-
turing down here
soon becomes clear: 01
the nineteenth cen-
tury buildings house closed off to traffic
some of Madrid’s to allow an endless
most celebrated series of activities
boutiques. and events to take
Prestigious Italian place in peace.
tailors sit side-by- If you’re suffering
side with laid-back from hunger pangs
showrooms and con- after all that shop-
cept gift shops. ping, just walk over
You’ll find everything to Puigcerdà, the
you need for the alleyway running par- 03
most elegant male allel to Jorge Juan, or
wardrobe. Wom- take a break in one dishes to bite-sized
en can also shop of the many eating morsels of the best
till they drop in places on the short ham from acorn-fed
renowned jewellers, distance between Ibérico pigs. You’ll
the ateliers of lead- them. The best love the welcoming
ing international option is to enjoy and slightly quirky
brands, exclusive the Madrid sunshine 02 atmosphere.
beauty salons, and and food at one of
so on. Plus, in June, the open-air terrace 01 la paz market One of the most traditional in Madrid.
around the eve bars. Take your 02 fashion runway Major firms are based in the neighbourhood.
of San Juan, they pick from the wide 03 total look A great range of jewellers and accessory stores.
04 the art business Works by Miró have been auctioned in Ansorena.
hold the San Jorge range of food on
05 something more The auctioneer’s is also a jewellers and art gallery.
Juan festival here. offer, from Oriental 06 & 07 the art gallery The Lázaro Galdiano Museum opened in 1951
The whole street is and Mediterranean and holds a comprehensive collection of European art.

106
 my madrid

EXQ U I S I T E Mariló Montero

journalist
PIECES
The district’s com-
mercial atmosphere i didn’t know
is enhanced by its that in madrid
artistic treasures, You could find
which are impres- out where one of
sive, to say the least. 04 Madrid’s best known
The national Archae- characters, Pérez the
ological Museum Mouse, once lived. 07
has undertaken an
ambitious renova- Zurbarán. The Juan
tion project. MY MOST March Foundation
It holds key items INSPIRING was one of the first
PLACE
from Spanish history, organisations to
such as the Lady of “El Retiro, hold modern and
Elche, but in even 05 especially in contemporary art
more impressive autumn. And exhibitions in Spain.
settings thanks to
even more so Its programme has

if I’m on
the newly designed never lost its edge
exhibition areas. and is complement-
It also displays my bike.” ed by interesting
Egyptian and Greek chamber music
treasures, like the concerts.
sarcophagus of my madrid Around Calle de
Taremetchenbastet. Romantic Velázquez and the
Originally in private Madrid. I think area surrounding
hands, the Lázaro it’s one of the the Retiro Park,
Galdiano Museum few cities in the antique dealers and
is now a public insti- world with a auction houses are
tution and occupies museum dedi- art galleries in their
a large palace. The cated to Roman- own right, displaying
extensive and varied ticism. all kinds of decora-
collection includes 06 tive treasures.
artworks from all my Two of the most
over Europe. The occupy pride of works by Hierony- favourite famous are Ansore-
museum’s set of place. mus Bosch, Lucas refuge na, originally a
paintings, drawings Other valuable Cranach the Elder, El The Hotel San jewellers, and Alcalá
and prints by Goya exhibits include Greco, Murillo and Mauro library. Subastas.

antique dealers Around Calle de Velázquez you can come across some genuine relics. 107
 an open
district

Serrano

Only a couple
of years ago it
was fitted with
new street lights,
benches to sit
on, leafy gardens,
wider pavements
and three under-
ground car parks.

Open-air bars
are dotted
around the
pavements,
01
giving the place
a real buzz.
THE SAME quarters of the If you stroll round resentative of high
AS EVER historic newspaper the streets you’ll class Madrid.
This is a district ABC, a Mudé- be faced with But it’s not all Calle de Serrano
with deeply-rooted, jar-style building, is distinguished solemnity. enters the 21st
healthy habits, a shopping centre buildings every Salamanca knows century with a
like having tea in nowadays. time you cross how to have fun more modern look
scrumptious cake For food shopping, the street, like the too. than ever before,
shops, buying the La Paz market is a great embassies There’s no shortage but without sacri-
newspaper from a fantastic place with of neighbouring of places to meet ficing the elegance
kiosk or stocking up traditional stalls countries, includ- for a drink after that has always
on plants and flow- selling top quality ing Arenzana work, gin clubs and defined it. Plus,
ers in the florists. produce. It’s so Palace (France), open-air bars that now you can ride
A bastion of impec- good that some of Amboage Palace stay open well into your bike all the
cable class, it the stalls supply (Italy) and Rafal the small hours. way from María
also has exclusive food to leading Palace (Belgium). Life in the district de Molina to the
shooting, horse-rid- restaurants based Marqués de Sala- carries on round Retiro Park along
ing and golf stores. in Madrid and even manca square is the clock, 24 hours the new dedicated
The former head- outside Spain. another major rep- a day. cycle lane.

108
afterwork Having tea or an appetiser, a ritual that often overlaps with the evening’s activities.
 SALAMANCA

A B I T E T O E AT attract locals and

If it’s gastro experi- tourists alike.
ences you’re after, Traditional prefer-
the area has many ences have been
appetising options. slowly giving way to
Some of the best more cosmopolitan
exponents of trends, with signa-
regional food, with ture gastro-snacks
dishes based on becoming a more 02 07
excellent market common sight.
produce, can be Their unique fla- lunch or a romantic
found in these vours make them dinner.
streets. irresistible and In some you’ll
Old habits die they can be eaten feel as if you’re
hard in this district at any time of day. at home, while in
and classics like a From exclusive others you’ll want
mid-morning piece breakfasts to Mex- to wear your best
of potato omelette ican and Japanese finery.
are always popular, recipes given the Plus there’s an
along with tasty high-end touch for 03 enormous variety
finger foods such western palates. of pretty chocolate
as Ibérico cold You can find cut- shops, traditional
meats and original ting-edge tapas cake shops, à la
snacks served on in and around the carte wine stores,
a chunk of crusty narrow streets of gourmet sandwich
bread. Jorge Juan and sellers and artisan
In any bar on any Puigcerdà. bakeries.
corner you can be There’s also a huge You’ll be able to
served these time- choice of places choose whether
less favourites that to have a business 04 you want to sit
inside beautifully
01 both façades The ABC building is decorated prem-
remarkable for its two very different façades.
ises or outside on
02 fusion Kabuki Wellington blends
Japanese and Mediterranean food. the many open-
03 gourmetLavinia, a must on the gastro route. air terrace bars
04 sweet treats Oriol Balaguer cake shop. and cafés dotted
05 designer gastronomy Ramsés.
around the dis-
06 innovative cuisine Pedro Larumbe’s
restaurant on La Castellana. trict’s pavements
07 gourmet space Designer tapas. 05 06 all year round.

109
 green spaces

M A EDLR I D art & culture

M AU D PR I D MADRID RÍO
+C LR O
ESA EL shopping & leisure

children

01

come on your bike!

MADRID’S
G R E AT G R E E N WAY

In 2011 one of the more than that. western districts

biggest green spaces The area is also an with old Madrid has
to be developed impressive engineer- been successfully
in Madrid’s urban ing feat, as it’s the vis- achieved by putting
centre over the last ible part of the under- in place 120 hectares
few decades was ground southern of green spaces,
officially opened. section of the M-30, footpaths, sports
This is Madrid Río, the city motorway pitches, cultural facili-
a park of more than carrying hundreds of ties, children’s areas
five kilometres in thousands of vehi- and a set of bridges,
length stretching cles every single day. footbridges and
along both sides Recovering both viewpoints that has
of the Manzanares riverbanks and con- proved to be a turn-
river. But it’s much necting the south- ing-point for the city.

110
a must Make sure you stop at the park viewpoints, as the spectacle is awe-inspiring.
 key words

NATURE // CYCLING
BRIDGES // ART // MANZANARES // TERRACES // RUNNING
RECOVERY // FOR EVERYONE
CLIMBING // BEACH // GREEN RING TRAIL

AN ENVIRON- Further south is with tropical, sub-

M E N TA L the Invernadero tropical and desert
CORRIDOR de Arganzuela, a plant species.
Madrid Río Park botanical garden Admission to this
seals off the great and greenhouse park is free.
artery that crosses
the southern side 01 urban beach In the Arganzuela district.
of the city: the hill 02 gardens One of the prettiest is shown in
the picture, just by Toledo bridge.
of El Pardo, Campo
03 skateboarders have a 1500 m2 precinct.
del Moro, San Isidro, 04 fountains So refreshing on a hot day.
Arganzuela and 05 views From the Puente de Segovia gar-
the Lineal del Man- dens the landscape is impressive. 02
zanares are all inter-
connected because
of it. But Madrid Río
has also served to
provide local resi-
dents with some of
the capital’s most
attractive gardens. 03 04
Huerta de la Par-
tida park, which
dates from the 17th
century, has been
recovered as the
gateway to Casa de
Campo. The Aniceto
Marinas gardens lie
beneath Príncipe
Pío and the gardens
at Segovia bridge
are reminiscent of
French landscape
style. The design of
the Toledo bridge
gardens plays with
shapes, different
levels and the col-
ours of the flowers. 05

111
 MADRID RÍO

S P O RTS : T H E
RING TRAIL
COMMUNITY
In Madrid, park,
garden or wood-
land means sport.
And Madrid Río
Park is no excep-
tion.
The park layout has
created a paradise
for runners, and
there are 33 sports
areas for fans of
roller skating, foot-
ball, skateboard-
ing, paddle tennis,
basketball and BMX
cycling.
01
The cycling trail
But most of all,
Madrid Río is a
fantastic place for
cyclists, who can
cover the entire
park from end to
end on two wheels
and link up at either
end with the city’s
Green Cycle Ring,
stretching over 02 03
64 kilometres.
01 cycling The park has become a favourite place for the city’s cyclists.
Further south, the Centre behind Plaza 02 running Every day you’ll see dozens of runners on the several
options for sports de Legazpi, which kilometres of trail around the park.
are rounded off with holds courses and 03 for hire You’ll find bike hire shops on nearby streets.
04 monumental de arganzuela bridge One of the new iconic sights
Roc 30, the capital’s training sessions in
along the river.
new climbing wall, a 1,300-metre long 05 now... One of the brand new twin footbridges.
and the Rowing artificial river facility. 06 ...and then Toledo bridge, built in 1718.

112
 my madrid

Roque Baños
composer

my
favourite
place to eat
El Alambique
(Electricistas, 1),
for the home
cooking and
friendly service. 05

M Y L AT E S T
R E V E L AT I O N

“Strolling along
the Manzanares
riverbank.
04 I’ve only just 06
discovered it.”
B R I D G E S : A RT formed by the beautifully deco- dero footbridges.
LINKING THE bridge and gate of El rated, built in 1718. In both, the domed
T WO B A N K S Rey, dating from the i’m inspired ceilings are deco-
Creating Madrid Río early 19th century, The new by... rated with recycled
has involved preserv- alongside Campo The newly-minted The balcony of my glass tiles with
ing the artistic legacy del Moro and Casa bridges include studio in Atocha. images of local
of its bridges and de Campo, and Andorra, a Y-shaped residents, the work
adding other new Segovia bridge, the metallic structure; going out of Daniel Canogar.
ones, which have oldest in the city, the Monumental San Miguel This walk through
already become from where you de la Argan- market for trying art wouldn’t be
icons and are well can see the peace- zuela designed by new delicatessen complete without
worth visiting as ful little chapel of Dominique Perrault food and eating Matadero, the great
you tour the park. Virgen del Puerto. and divided into two tapas. home of the city’s
Further south is tubular sections that alternative culture,
The old the spectacular rest on a hill; and my sunset which rounds
The oldest bridges Toledo bridge, the the concrete Inver- From the Temple off the southern
include the group tallest and most nadero and Mata- of Debod. end of the park.

atlético de madrid Go and have a look at the Vicente Calderón: you can see the stands from the park. 113
FOR
ALL AGES 01
The park is a
magnet for all
kinds of people.
The 17 children’s
areas mean it’s
always packed with
kids, and the three
bio-healthy circuits
help adults stay fit.
Plus there are
kiosks and open-
air cafés dotted
around the park, ANDORRA BRIDGE
WAS INSPIRED BY OLD
which are always RAILWAY TUNNELS
crowded, espe- AND FROM ABOVE IT
cially at dusk. LOOKS LIKE A TREE
BRANCH LYING OVER
In summer, there’s THE RIVER
a beach here,
albeit an urban
beach, and in 02
Arganzuela park
there are three
water features
with fountains
surrounded by
a small meadow
with loungers.
You can watch
this relaxed com-
ing and going 03 04 05
from any one of
01 to sleep The NH Ribera del Manzanares 06 andorra bridge One of the busiest. It was
the five viewpoints. hotel opened in 2011. opened in 2011.
Don’t miss the 02 for a chat Café del Río restaurant. 07 delicious dinner Costello Río, a designer
incredible 03 take a break It’s only a few steps from the restaurant in Plaza del General Maroto.
park to any of the bars and cafés in the 08, 09, 10 & 11 cosy bars There are lots of
views of the city
area. small pubs and bars scattered around the
and the wonder- 04 & 05 to eat Venta Matadero is one of the edges of the park, like La Trola,in Avenida
ful sunsets. most popular restaurants near the park. del Manzanares.

114
a tip Don’t forget the streets running alongside the park, with all kinds of bars and restaurants.
 the other
bank of the
MADRID RÍO

Manzanares

Following the
recent remodel-
ling of the river
bank area, the
western districts
of Madrid have
started to regain
their vibrancy 08
thanks to the

The right
bank of the
river has
many green
areas.

06

various initiatives 09
that are making
this area thrive
once again. Alter-
native galleries,
small theatre ven-
ues, cafés, bars
and restaurants
all outside the city
centre. Parts of
neighbourhoods 10
like Usera, Cara-
banchel and San
Isidro have never
been so close to
07 one another. 11

115
 green spaces

MADRID shopping & leisure

UP CASA DE CAMPO
CLOSE food & drink

children

take a breather!
T H E B I G C I T Y PA R K

At 1,722 hectares it started out as a the perfect setting at the zoo or picnic to a fancy
(five times the size royal game reserve, to spend a day experiencing the meal on the
of Central Park), and is now part in the open air in thrills of the Parque Gastronomy Walk.
Casa de Campo of the city thanks countless ways. de Atracciones. And for sports
is one of Europe’s to the Madrid Río Children will enjoy Options for enthusiasts there
largest city parks. project. nothing more than eating out range are kilometres
Like many others Casa de Campo is seeing the animals from a romantic of trails.

01

116
a must Hire a boat and take a row round the lake.
 key words

NATURE // SPORT
CHILDREN // RUNNERS // CYCLISTS // ROMANTICS
ATTRACTIONS // ZOO
WOODS // LAKE // FAIRS // CONGRESSES
02

03 04

05

GETTING various fountains

INTO and a cable car.
SHAPE Another key circuit
The cycle route for runners is the
that runs round the lake, which is home
city only leaves the to a club organising
M-40 to enter this year-round canoeing.
area of parkland. The Casa de Campo
Fans of mountain municipal pool may
biking would have only open during
a hard time finding summer but it’s a
more entertaining popular place to 06
routes, while there soak up the sun.
01 madrid’s green lung Its woodland boasts 100-year-old trees.
are also plenty of And future Nadals 02 trainers on The park has numerous circuits for runners.
points of interest can practice their 03 cycling rules Casa de Campo has hosted mountain bike events
for runners: Puente swing among plus time trials for the Tour of Spain race.
04 for everyone There are plenty of outdoor activities.
de la Culebra the pines at the
05 top level competition The park has been the setting for Triathlon
and the railway, sport centre’s 15 World Cup events.
Civil War bunkers, tennis courts. 06 water sports In spring canoes and kayaks take to the lake.

117
 CASA DE
CAMPO

02 03

BIG black tunnels and

THRILLS round seemingly
Wild animals, impossible curves.
devious loops, Since the time of
rides in the sky. Chu-Lin Madrid
It’s difficult to know has had a spe-
who’s the more cial relationship
excited: the chil- with pandas.
dren or the grown- The Zoo-Aquarium
ups accompanying even relayed live
them, but the pictures of the
attractions are cer- cubs’ first steps
tainly very popular. via a camera
Everyone at Parque installed in their
de Atracciones is sleeping quarters.
excited about the The cable car,
TNT roller coaster, which runs from
designed for the Paseo de Pintor
whole family. Rosales to the very
This mine train centre of the park,
races past explo- is the best way to
sions and geysers, get an idea of its
through pitch size and beauty.

04

01 adrenaline The Abismo roller coaster reaches a height of 49 metres.

02 aquatic skills The Zoo organises shows with dolphins.
03 let’s go! The Parque de Atracciones opens throughout the year.
04 bird’s eye view The cable car route covers over two kilometres.
05 quality food The Salón Gourmet event is held in spring.
06 a touch of glamour Elegant venues for special events.
07 dining The park boasts a range of different restaurants.
01 08 history There are also various historical buildings.

118
 my madrid

05

Sergio
Peris-Mencheta
actor

a seductive
corner
Any little street
in Hapsburg
Madrid: San
Nicolás, Factor,
Biombo, Unión,
Vergara…

A S A T R E AT
FOR SOME-
ONE...

“If the 06

weather’s good,
dinner by the
lake at Casa
de Campo.”

wildlife
If you have food
in your hand at
El Retiro, the 07 08
sparrows and
coal tits will MAKE many concerts. Salón Gourmet es of all kinds.
come and perch A D AT E Close by, on Aveni- and Millesime Many are held here
on you. At Casa de Campo da de Portugal, you food fairs, the during the year,
you can enjoy an will find the first Classic Car Show often to help good
favourite array of events trade fair park to be and much more. causes, like the
eatery that appeal to opened in Madrid. A favourite with Solidarity Run or
That’ll be Babbo, all the senses. It continues to families, the park the event to sup-
just off Plaza de The area round the host leisure-re- is a regular venue port the Spanish
Isabel II. lake has staged lated events: the for popular rac- Heart Foundation.

in summer You can enjoy the Zoo-Aquarium’s dolphin shows at night. 119
 A LT E R NAT I V E M A D R I D

M A D R I D E X PA N D S green spaces

THE CITY CENTRE HAS SEEN MANY CHANGES AND HAS food & drink
A LWAYS E M E R G E D W I T H F LY I N G C O LO U R S : T R A D I T I O N -
AL DISTRICTS LIKE MALASAÑA, CHUECA AND LAVAPIÉS shopping & leisure
HAVE EMBRACED MODERN VALUES THANKS TO THEIR
art & culture
INTENSE COMMERCIAL, ARTISTIC AND NIGHT LIFE, A
P H E N O M E N O N T H AT A L S O E X T E N D S TO C O N D E D U Q U E nightlife
A N D T H E N E W C U LT U R A L S PA C E S .
lgbt

120
 CONDE NEW L AVA P I É S
CHUECA MALASAÑA
DUQUE S PA C E S EMBAJADORES

calderón de la barca
122 chueca Epicentre of diversity, an exam- 136 conde duque The area around the for-
“WHERE THE ple of vitality and entrepreneurship. In mer barracks invites new gastro estab-
SUBTLEST Madrid everybody’s welcome! lishments and designer shops.
WIT IS CON- 128 malasaña By day and night, the district 140 new spaces Matadero Madrid and La
FUSED BY THE never stops. Its streets are a perfect Casa Encendida, cultural alternatives.
VARIETY AND blend of tradition and modernity, bohe- 144 lavapiés/embajadores Multicultural
LANGUAGES” mian and cutting edge. Enjoy! Madrid meets in its streets.

street life The locals make visitors feel right at home.

121
 lgbt

EL food & drink

A LT E R N AT I V E
MADRID CHUECA
MADRID
+ REAL shopping & leisure

nightlife

live it!
MADRID
OPEN TO EVERYONE

If any neighbour- To visit Chueca is

hood in Madrid has a complete expe-
been able to rise rience in itself.
from its ashes with If you arrive at the
renewed energy, end of June during
it is Chueca. This the Pride Festival,
area has become a daily life in the area
true attraction and becomes a constant
is an epicentre for hive of trends that
acceptance and coexist with the
culture in the city. popular flavour of 01
It is an icon for this central area
diversity around the without losing any locals, occasional ers its nooks and and authentic, the
world and receives of its authenticity. visitors and tourists crannies and to best definition for
thousands of visitors Chueca is great and, above all, for sample the melting it is diversity and
each month. Also, it for shopping, for its warm welcome. pot of styles, tastes integration, thanks to
has become one of gourmet food and A neighbourhood and quirks that live which it has become
the most modern, for tapas; for the that invites you to together in com- one of the most
open and exciting nightlife; for art walk through its plete harmony. attractive neighbour-
areas of Madrid. and creation; for its streets, to discov- Contemporary hoods in Madrid.

122
a must Walk through the streets of Fuencarral and Barquillo on a shopping afternoon.
 key words

GAY FRIENDLY // PRIDE

MARKET // FASHION // TERRACES // GOURMET
GALLERIES // EMERGING ARTISTS

T H E H E A RT de Fuencarral, an the best designers

O F FA S H I O N authentic meeting on the catwalks.
An obligatory point that goes A perfect plan
visit in Chueca is beyond the typical would be to stroll
Fuencarral. This shopping centre through Fuencar-
street is one of the and where you ral street to go
most important can purchase any- shopping and at
shopping areas in thing, go to the the same time visit
Madrid. hairdresser, get a the neighbouring
Groups of shop- tattoo or a piercing streets to discover
ping lovers gather and have a coffee new places and
here every day without leaving the relax in one of the
to find the latest area. Together with charming cafés. 02
trends and the the modern and
coolest designs. designer propos-
Above all, the als in the market,
best thing about Fuencarral also
Fuencarral is the holds the most
variety. This area is alternative shops
a meeting place for for urban groups,
the most hipster such as Goths or
and transgressive hippies, sharing
styles, together space with shoe 03 04
with the most pop- shops where you
ular ones, making can find the latest
it a complete area trends, designer
where nothing is jewellery shops
lacking for a full and, of course, the
day of shopping. biggest brands rec-
One of the most ognised by every-
popular parts of the one and the main
street is Mercado fashion brands by

01 meeting point Chueca square.

02 with style From opticians to shoe shops.
03 accessories Retail shopping.
04 shopping Fuencarral Market is open to
the latest trends.
05 the best brands Along Fuencarral
street, something for everyone. 05

123
 CHUECA

01

HUNTING
F O R T H E L AT -
EST
Beyond the main
attraction of shop-
ping in Chueca,
the neighbourhood
has more inde-
pendent shops
that provide char-
acter and attract
trendspotters.
A wide range of
well-located shops
that not only
invite the visitor to
discover the side
streets of Chueca,
but suit the tastes 02
of everyone looking
for something a lit- As well as the most cafés and take- ers and small
tle more personal. fun and niche away food areas boutiques fill this
One of the most shops for gay shop- with delicious charming corner
popular areas, pers, this street gourmet options. of Madrid that is
and an obligatory has benefited from The surroundings also notable for
visit for those the constant flow have become the its cafés, ideal for
who simply can’t from Fuencarral most attractive relaxing and enjoy-
resist shoes, is and multi-brand shopping area ing a delicatessen
Augusto Figueroa. boutiques have in the city. snack between
This street, running opened here with Famous design- shop and shop. 03
from Fuencarral to a very select cli-
the heart of Chue- entèle such as 01 on wheels Bicycles also define the new profile of this neighbourhood.
02 san antón The market asserts itself in the heart of the neighbour-
ca, is filled with Princess Letizia
hood, and is perfect for shopping and having tapas.
displays of shoes. and Oscar winner 03 trendspotting These streets are home to the most modern people.
Hortaleza street Penélope Cruz. 04 from there In Chueca you will find a catalogue of international flavours.
is another recom- The pursuit of 05 from here Fish from the north of Spain has a special place in the market.
06 one of the oldest taverns in madrid La Carmencita, from 1854.
mendation for any beauty is another
07 oriental gastronomy Janatomo is a Japanese restaurant.
fashionista looking business that 08 latino Latin-American dishes are found in La Candelita.
to set trends. appears next to 09 specialist restaurants The ceviche restaurant of La Panamericana.

124
 my madrid

07

Montserrat
Domínguez
journalist

the best start

04 05 A cocktail prepared
by Fernando in De
Diego (Reina, 12)...
Then we’ll think
about later on!
08

I AM STILL FAS -
CINATED BY

“More Town 09
than Court; the
Hapsburgs perfect at any time

and the hum- of the day and has

unique views. The
06 ble traditional culinary offerings in
shops.” Chueca are the basis
GOOD nomic area thanks to area on the second for traditional bars
ENOUGH the varied offerings floor for enjoying where you can have
T O E AT of all kinds that have the pleasure of an afforda- well priced beers
If over the last dec- opened their doors. good food. Dozens ble plan and tapas, with the
ade Chueca has One of the unstop- of stands with food The exhibitions terraces across three
asserted itself and pable places with a prepared to be eaten in La Casa squares (del Rey, de
put itself on the growing reputation here fill up each day, Encendida and Chueca and Vázquez
map, and not only is the renewed San taking a trip around La Casa del Lec- de Mella), the best
that of Madrid, the Antón Market. The the gastronomic tor, in Matadero, cafés for desserts
last few years have life-long market has world. The offer is are free. and breads and the
really made it stand given way to a new completed by a top most fashionable
out. The renewal of multi-space that has quality restaurant great restaurants to see
the area and its sur- been completely where they cook unknowns and to be seen in.
roundings continues, refurbished, that your purchases from The gardens Another growing
unstoppable, which offers the most var- the market, to be of Cecilio trend: brunch. In
is particularly nota- ied gourmet shop- enjoyed on a pleas- Rodríguez, in El Chueca, breakfast is
ble in the gastro- ping as well as an ant terrace that is Retiro. eaten late.

san antón Buy food in the Market of San Antón: it’s prepared in the restaurant. 125
 THE PRIDE
FESTIVAL
MAKES MADRID
THE WORLD
CAPITAL FOR
THE LGBT
A S PA C E COMMUNITY
FO R A RT 01
Art in the city is
not confined to the
Paseo del Prado.
Apart from the
large museums,
Madrid has small
charming corners
which are always a
pleasant surprise to
discover. 02
Without a doubt,
two of these
charming museums
are to be found in
the streets of this
neighbourhood.
The Museum of
Romanticism,
located in a beauti- 03
ful late 18th century
01 emerging artists In Utopía Park Way.
palace, pays tribute 02 19th century In the Museum of Romanticism. T H E G R E AT Residents of the
to life in the 19th 03 to see The gallery Travesía Cuatro has a wide PRIDE city and thousands
century. array of exhibitions. F E S T I VA L of tourists fill the
04 gay pride Celebrated at the end of June.
This institution Chueca is the gay neighbourhood
05 take a walk Chueca is a melting pot of people.
holds an interest- 06 be seen Hotel Room Mate Oscar is where friendly neighbour- to the brim and
ing collection of the beautiful people meet. hood of Madrid and convert it into the
objects, furniture a global reference epicentre of enter-
and decorative by Pedro de Ribera, reputable in the point for the LGBT tainment: open air
pieces of Imperial holds exhibitions city, which hold the community. concerts, popular
or Elizabethan style about the evolution most avante-garde The Pride festival, parties, a great
and paintings by of the city. and transgressive celebrated during number of cultural
Goya, Esquivel and Apart from these, inventions and cre- the last week of and entertainment
Madrazo. the area has ations. June and the first activities and an
The Museum of His- numerous galleries An unmissable week of July, has atmosphere that
tory, famous for its ranging from the route in search of become one of the joins people of all
imposing Baroque most alternative to the most contem- largest festivals in types together.
façade designed some of the most porary art. Madrid. Like we said, it is

126
pa rt y In Chueca, any night of the week is full of life.
 my madrid

CHUECA

Javier Cámara
actor

to
seduce
A coffee, the
cinema in Plaza
de los Cubos...
any sunset in 06
Madrid is the per-
fect background. AT
THE BAR
Chueca never
SECRET sleeps. No day
TIPS
out starts without

“I still discover
some beers or
wines in one of the
Madrid every legendary bars,
day. You have followed by one of

to keep your
the terraces in its
04 squares or heights.
eyes open.” The night offers the
one of the unmiss- most popular item
able events in of the area: cock-
Madrid. if they want tails.
As well as the to surprise Between Chueca
Pride festival, you and the rear part
Chueca and nearby It has to be the of Gran Vía, we can
areas have many theatre, small find some of the
emblematic bars venues with huge oldest and most
and discos. shows. Constant famous cocktail
Icons of the Madrid surprises. bars in the city.
night for gays, lesbi- There are also
ans, bears, mixed… for shopping peaceful havens
that combine DJ Hortaleza and and cafés for those
sessions with live Fuencarral, Mala- looking for some-
shows, spectacles saña neighbour- thing more relaxed,
and activities of all hood, shops from new design bars or
types. 05 yesteryear... discos of all types.

127
 food & drink

EL shopping &leisure
A LT E R N AT I V E
MADRID MALASAÑA
MADRID
+ REAL nightlife

lgbt

01

surprise yourself!
T H E A LT E R N AT I V E
B Y DAY A N D B Y N I G H T
This is more than Weekday mornings coffee or a beer.
a district: it’s a are the ideal time to Daytime ends but
philosophy of life. discover its soul. life in Malasaña
The bohemian The trendy with goes on, with cock-
Malasaña of the their laptops greet tail bars and pubs
80s and 90s, which the local residents opening their doors
was at the heart of while life wakes to show that the
Madrid’s Movida and up, not too early neighbourhood has
post-Movida move- though, at vintage still got it.
ment, now beats to shops, pop-up mar- At the weekend the
the rhythm of every kets, international streets are filled
new trend. food stands and with young people
In recent years it’s traditional taverns. walking, cycling or
become a brighter, In the evening the skateboarding, in
daytime destination, hustle and bustle search of clothes
where cafés with kicks in at the out- by some emerging
Wi-Fi and antique door cafés, where designer or a table
furniture receive just the locals, young where they can
as much attention people and parents enjoy a piece of
as the historic bars. with children enjoy a homemade cake.

128
a must By day explore its retro shops, and by night discover the party spirit.
 key words

ALTERNATIVE // MOVIDA
MARKETS // SQUARES // TAPAS // TAKE AWAY
ORIGINALS // ECOLOGICAL
BIKES // RETRO // TERRACES // SECOND-HAND
02

SEE
AND
BE SEEN
Once the
coat-wearing sea-
son is over, outdoor
cafés are the per-
fect place to have
a drink, people
watch and be seen.
The neighbour-
hood’s landmark
square, Dos de
Mayo, is lined with
terraces placed
around the memo-
rial to the uprising
of Madrid’s people
against the French
in 1808, where 03
a dressmaker
called Manuela above Calle del Wanderers will reap
Malasaña played Marqués de Santa their reward at the
a leading role. Ana, where you bottom of Calle
Tapas, contem- can also stop off del Pez, when they
porary Spanish for a cool beer. discover the slop-
fare and pizzas Another open ing Carlos Cam-
make up the space is Plaza de bronero square,
culinary options San Ildefonso, one of the more
you can enjoy where rows of peaceful places,
in this square. terraces and take- or the recently
But you’ll have away stands share opened roof ter-
to grab a table their spots with a race at the top
quick when the 04 statue of a young of the old Cines
sun is out. student, a local Luna building.
Going up Calle de 01 family-friendly The neighbourhood has icon who, folder This location
changed a lot in recent years.
San Andrés you’ll in hand, stoically offers a privileged
02 al fresco Terraces in Plaza Dos de Mayo.
come to Plaza de 03 terraces In Plaza de San Ildefonso. puts up with pho- bird’s-eye view of
Juan Pujol, raised 04 a design fair El Dosde Market. to after photo. neighbourhood life.

129
 SPREAD ACROSS
MALASAÑA YOU
CAN STILL FIND
AGE-OLD TAVERNS
WITH TIN BARS
AND VERMOUTH
ON TAP.

01

T R A D I T I O NA L 01 well poured La Ardosa has the oldest Guinness tap in Madrid.

MALASAÑA 02 among friends Estar Café is well known for its board games.
If there’s some- 03 on tiles Mosaics from Antigua Huevería and Farmacia Juanse.
04 two-in-one At Greek and Shop you can buy and eat Greek food.
thing Malasaña
05 like in hawaii At Coconut Bar they make tropical cocktails.
has managed to 06 setting trends Corta Cabeza is a creative beauty salon.
preserve it’s the 07 literary café Tipos Infames is a bookshop, café and art gallery.
traditional flavour of 08 not just a shop Fashion, art and music have their place at Rughara.
09 intimate theatre Microteatro por Dinero is designed for a small audience.
a bygone Madrid, of
which there remain
02 very few traces. taverns with tin bars uncovers, amongst you walk, you’ll stum-
Ultra-modern hair and vermouth on the colourful graffi- ble across inscrip-
salons, record shops tap, where genera- tied walls, plaques tions paying homage
and tattoo studios tions continue to live that tell of famous to century-old busi-
rub shoulders with side by side success- personalities who nesses.
bars and estabish- fully. have called Mala- The tiled advertise-
ments, some of The quaint, old- saña home, like writ- ments you’ll see
which have been in style food stores er Rosa Chacel, who where San Vicente
business for over also remain ready set her novel The Ferrer meets San
100 years. Spread for action. A close Maravillas District in Andrés will take you
across Malasaña you inspection of the these streets. on another trip down
03 can still find age-old buildings’ façades If you look down as memory lane.

130
 MALASAÑA

08

drive creativity, a
host of interest-
ing ideas can be
found here, such
as Microteatro por
Dinero, a theatre
experience featur-
ing short 15-minute
09 performances.
The word micro
TRIBALL also leaves its mark
If you’re looking for on the independ-
the most dynamic ent craft breweries
04 part of Malasaña, which sell locally,
head for Triball and the tiny artists’
(abbreviation studios embracing
of Triángulo de the modern philos-
Ballesta, the main ophy of this unpar-
street in this area), alleled city hotspot.
between Gran Vía, Streets like Balles-
Fuencarral and ta and Barco are
Corredera Baja home to some of
de San Pablo. the most chic bars
05 06 Behind the impres- and latest culinary
sive Telefónica offerings, while
building you’ll find fashion stores
this maze of streets can be found in
that, following Loreto y Chicote,
their comeback Desengaño and
thanks to the ini- Corredera Baja
tiative of a group de San Pablo.
of entrepreneurs Triball keeps the
at the start of this nocturnal spirit
century, are home of Malasaña very
to some of Madrid’s much alive with
most ambitious underground clubs
businesses. hosting local bands
Committed to and sessions by
07 reusing space to famous DJs.

e vo lv i n g Never the same, a visit to Triball is sure to bring a few surprises. 131
 MALASAÑA

MADRID
IN ITS OWN
NA M E
The essence of
Malasaña is con-
centrated in certain
streets, essential
stop-offs for visi-
tors to the area.
Espíritu Santo
is perhaps the
one that best
reflects the
neighbourhood’s
modern spirit.
The stretch
between Plaza de
Juan Pujol and
Corredera Alta
de San Pablo is
home to tradition- 01
al fishmongers,
soul record shops, radical transfor- where just as much
authentic Ameri- mation that has care is taken over
can-style bakeries, taken place in their aesthetics as pre-
retro-style opticians neighbourhood. paring the drinks.
and second-hand Calle Pez is Crossing San Ber-
bookstores, all another of the nardo, it’s worth
within scarcely 200 most emblematic taking a stroll along
metres of each streets, with a Calle La Palma,
other. You’ll find a veritable nightlife. 02 which will bring
constant flow of Teatro Alfil, which you to the Conde
young couples with specialises in com- Duque barracks:
cameras, groups of edy, attracts a loyal the classic taverns
friends hunting for public who, at the serving patatas bra-
the latest fashions end of each play, vas go hand in hand
and open-mouthed pack out the bohe- with the veteran
locals simply mian tapas bars and clubs that organise
astonished by the cocktail lounges, 03 04 live music there.

132
a tip Rent a bike and get pedalling to discover Malasaña on two wheels.
 my madrid

05

O N T WO Marta Etura
actress
WHEELS
The narrow streets
of Malasaña seem ‘confidential’
to be screaming madrid
for you to swap Chinese and
your car for a bike. Japanese
Besides being supermarkets sell-
greener, it also ing high-
makes getting quality food from
around easier. their countries in
More and more Usera.
are opting for this
mode of transport.
In the afternoon, IT’S BEEN
the hustle and AGES SINCE
bustle of parents
bringing their chil- “I went to
dren home from 06 the opera.
school by bike I must go
has become an
everyday event.
offer sushi home
delivery by bike.
even free techni-
cal assistance for
along with bike
rental businesses
back to the
Likewise, legions La Bicicleta, a cyclists who have and an entire net- Teatro Real.”
of young things café on one of the run into problems. work of restaurants
ride up and down corners of Plaza Additionally, new and bars flying
the street on de San Ildefonso, shops selling the bike-friendly in madrid
their simple vin- has a place to park accessories and flag, where both you can
tage-style, fixed- your bike on its spare parts have rider and saddle Dance the Milonga
gear bikes, many of ground floor and emerged recently, are welcome. and watch others at
which have been tango venues.
directly salvaged 01 businesses with initiative Libros Para Un Mundo Mejor is a second-
from decades ago hand bookshop that organises literary workshops, talks and courses. of all the
02 flowers and tea Nature blossoms in Malasaña thanks to the florists
and updated. madrids,
and tea shops that dot its narrow streets.
Cycle fever has 03 curiosity street Espíritu Santo is home to some unexpected shops. mine is...
hit many local 04 shoe workshop At loli Shoes you can buy shoes and handbags made by Authenticity, the
businesses and the designer herself, Cynthia Ioli, at the table in the middle of the shop. old neighbour-
05 bikes allowed Many businesses in Malasaña, like shops and cafés, let
there are even hoods: La Latina,
customers enter with their bikes..
initiatives by chefs 06 bike-friendly café Cycling lovers will feel at home at La Bicicleta, which Malasaña, the
in Malasaña who organises activities based around two wheels. Hapsburg Quarter…

133
 MALASAÑA

01

A BITE
T O E AT
TO GO
While the tapas cul-
ture is still strong in
the Malasaña DNA,
with a wide range
available, take-away
stands also appear
to have captured
the new philosophy
of a neighbourhood
that spends more
time than ever
in the street and
enjoys a casual INTERNATIONAL
lifestyle, which is FOOD STANDS
HAVE CAPTURED
not at odds with THE URBAN,
quality or flavour. YOUTHFUL
Making your way PHILOSOPHY OF THE
NEIGHBOURHOOD
along the streets
you can sample a
variety of global cui-
sine, from a simple 02
slice of pizza to a
01 ‘espresso’ and more At Toma Café they serve a mean carrot cake.
Greek gyro, a tray table to eat well.
02 in summer Stroll through the neighbourhood and enjoy an ice cream.
of freshly prepared Many eateries also 03 music and poetry At El Intruso they hold a Poetry Slam the first
sushi or a hot dog. offer traditional Wednesday of every month, which is open to the whole public.
A lively range specialities, like 04 bar-hopping Malasaña nights never stop. Classic rock bars and new
arrivals attract a young following.
that shows you croquettes, gazpa-
05 party Silvia Superstar, ex-lead singer of Killer Barbies, owns El Fabuloso.
don’t always have cho and salmorejo, 06 legendary hangout La Vía Lactea, open since 1979, was at the fore-
to sit down at a as well as salads front of the Madrid Movida in the early 80s.

134
 my madrid

MALASAÑA

03 04

and organic dish- Amaya

es, currently very Valdemoro
popular among sportswoman
the locals in this
part of Madrid. It’s shopping
also common to I’m not very
see people parked classic or very
on street benches modern, which
enjoying a delicious means I can find
artisanal ice cream whatever I want
when the sun is out. on Calle
This all fits in with Fuencarral.
the philosophy of 05
a place that never
keeps still and WHEN OUT music sessions go
where there is so FOR A STROLL on long into the
much to see that early hours.
it’s worth eating on “Remember Any day of the
the run to make to look up week you’ll find
sure you don’t to discover concerts by Span-
miss anything.
Besides food, many
our ish underground
groups, jam ses-
eateries serve cold marvellous 06 sions by guest
and hot drinks buildings.” artists and live per-
to go, espresso, FROM THE today, like La Vía formances in every
a wide range of M O V I DA T O Láctea and Penta, genre.
coffees and freshly the madrid i C LU B B I N G conquered by pop Many of these
squeezed natural like The same streets culture, there are venues, consid-
juices, served for All of it, but I that Movida stars countless new ered temples on
you to enjoy as guess I’ll go for Almodóvar and venues yet to write Madrid’s indie
you stroll through Malasaña. Alaska walked their own legacy. scene in the 90s,
the squares of down in the 80s These days, Mala- are still going
Malasaña, which for played host to saña nightlife strong, with pro-
have become a visitors concerts on the moves between grammes that
cosmopolitan If I want to thriving Spanish cocktail bars and make a night out
gourmet market, surprise some- independent rock lounge settings, in Malasaña one
where everyone is one, I take them scene in the 90s. fun bars with a ret- of the liveliest and
free to savour their to Las Ventas Alongside popular ro look and clubs most entertaining
favourite dish. bullring. haunts still open where electronic in the capital.

espíritu santo This short street represents the essence of Malasaña. 135
 food & drink

EL shopping & leisure

A LT E R N AT I V E
MADRID CONDE DUQUE
MADRID
+ REAL art & culture

nightlife

a luxury!
MORE RELAXED PLEASURES

In Conde Duque of the increasingly gives its name to

everyone knows how numerous terraces. the neighbourhood
the day will start, but In this tapestry of and that occupies
not how it will end. streets, where there an old barracks.
You might go to is no room for hustle The lively Plaza de
this part of Madrid and bustle yet plenty las Comendadoras is
in search of limited of it for small shops flanked by a church
edition sneakers with their own per- from the 17th century
and, without really sonality, time slows and is a must-see.
knowing how, end down in symphony There is also a chim-
up having a glass of with the very little ney belonging to an
wine as you listen traffic that moves old beer distillery, a
to a poetry reading. through the area. relic from another
Meanwhile, you Packed with time that seems to
will probably have semi-hidden squares watch over the area
visited a exhibition where you can spend from high up, in a
on design in the hours chatting out- unique neighbour-
ABC Museum doors, Conde Duque hood that, though
of Drawing and also has places such it seems incredible,
Illustration, or had as the renovated has much more to
some tapas in one Cultural Centre that be discovered. 01

136
a must Lose yourself in the history and the varied activities of the Cultural Centre.
 key words

CULTURAL CENTRE // LIBRARY

CONCERTS // DESIGN // ILLUSTRATION // BOUTIQUES
MONUMENTS // REFURBISHED
PEDESTRIAN // CHARM // ALLEYS // TERRACES
02

INSIDE THE
BARRACKS
After its re-inaugura-
tion in 2011, Conde
Duque recovered 03
its character as a
leading arts venue.
With almost 60,000
square metres of
space, every day
hundreds of Madrid
locals visit the
library or newspa-
per archive, both
of which are open 04
to the public.
The cultural sched- ranging from book
ule, both lively and binding to artistic
multi-disciplinary, expression, turning
runs in various the centre into a
exhibition halls, party for children
the theatre and looking for their first
the auditorium. artistic experiences.
The varied schedule You need to spend
is worth keeping a little while here, as THE PATIOS WERE
an eye on, as it the best option is to REFURBISHED
alternates modern go beyond the main FOLLOWING THE
SPIRIT OF THE 18TH
performing arts façade and take CENTURY, THE PERIOD
shows with concerts your time to admire WHEN THE BUILDING
by famous classical the courtyards. WAS CONSTRUCTED
music performers, Afterwards, we
photography dis- recommend you
plays and short film explore every nook 05
festivals, where you and cranny: all of 01 the calm neighbourhood The streets surrounding the Cultural Centre
can enjoy discov- them have some Conde Duque are a good place for a walk, thanks to their scarce traffic.
ering new talents. kind of surprise and 02 origin Construction of the building was ordered by Philip V in 1717.
03 past Its first use was as a barracks for the Guardias de Corps, the
At weekends, work- offer something
elite military force that guarded the monarch in the 18th century.
shops are organized different every 04 the archive Its documents fill 18 kilometres of shelves.
for the whole family, time you visit. 05 cultural Programme of exhibitions, festivals and spectacles.

137
 CONDE
DUQUE

01 02

E XC LUS I V E has a good number

SHOPPING of interesting busi-
While you are nesses, ranging
walking around the from record shops
centre of Madrid, with an exquisite
if you come across selection of music
an impecca- from the past and
bly-dressed cou- the present, to
ple, don’t second tiny book shops
guess it: most of where you can find
their attire prob- the best-kept edi-
ably comes from tions of literature
the boutiques in classics, as well as
Conde Duque. businesses that
The neighbour- sell some of the
hood is a mix of nicest bags, guitars 03
small businesses and bicycles you’ll
dedicated to the ever find.
fashion world If you have any
with one common doubts, just ask;
denominator: a here, all the entre-
blend of modern preneurs are amaz-
and classic ideas ingly passionate
and a commitment about what they
to brands and sell.
designers that are
difficult to find in The ABC
any other part of Museum
Madrid. For art lover, here’s
To walk the entire a tip: the ABC
length of Conde Museum shop sells 04 05
Duque is to be unusual objects,
01 & 02music and clothes Music shops share the street with fashion brands.
exposed to an catalogues and all
03 more culture The ABC Museum shows displays of drawing and illustration.
endless array of types of curiosities. 04 artisans Businesses such as bicycle workshops are also to be found.
tempting displays It’s an obligatory 05 fashion Shops such as Sportivo fill the neighbourhood with the latest trends.
of jewellery, shoes, stop after soaking 06 a british feel Some shops sell gourmet English products.
07 architecture study and café La Travesía de Conde Duque.
dresses... up the illustrations
08 the liveliest terraces In Plaza de Cristino Martos.
As well as clothes, and drawings in the 09 signature sandwiches It is easy to find sandwiches with home-made bread.
the neighbourhood exhibition halls. 10 sweet bites Bakeries and creperies complete the array.

138
 my madrid

09

Pablo Berger
filmmaker

my art
spaces
The free
exhibitions
organised by
foundations: 10
Mapfre, March,
Telefónica... allel with the old
barracks we can find
another lively square,
T O L E AV E Y O U 06 Cristino Martos,
SPEECHLESS with tables and
chairs even around
“An invitation the stairs that
to have a drink descend from Calle
in the café at Princesa, where

the Círculo de
you can try artisan
cakes or bagels.
Bellas Artes.” Among the inven-
tory of restaurants
there are places
a plan that 07 08 that serve sand-
not many wiches made with
people know GASTRO of new bars makes Calle de Cristo with sourdough bread,
about PA R A D I S E this one of the most new takes on stews temples of organic
The free film In recent times, interesting neigh- and creative snacks. cooking with a piano
screenings organ- Conde Duque has bourhoods for any It competes in available to anyone
ised by the Film overcome its tradi- diehard foodie. charm and attraction who wants to play
Academy in their tional dichotomy The new-tradition with the nearby Plaza it or gastro-cultural
headquarters on with regard to its taverns on Calle de Guardia Corps, initiatives where the
Calle de Zurbano. gastronomic provi- Limón complement with an increasing ground floor of an
sion, in which tradi- the classic offer of number of terraces architectural studio
my shopping tional Spanish tapas croquettes, chips becoming available becomes a tea room.
neighbour- used to coexist with with spicy sauce and in the shadow of Creativity in pure
hood exotic restaurants; meat that are found the cultural centre. form applied to
Conde Duque. now, the emergence on the pedestrian Continuing in par- gastronomy.

ta l k a wa l k On Calle de Cristo, one of the main arteries of this tapa-loving neighbourhood. 139
 art & culture

EL food & drink

A LT E R N AT I V E
MADRID N E W S PA C E S
MADRID
+ REAL nightlife

children

what an experience!

M ATA D E R O A N D C A S A
ENCENDIDA: THE OTHER
C U LT U R A L A LT E R N A T I V E S

Little by little, but that interdisci-

without pause, plinarity, artistic
Madrid is filling up eclecticism and a
with spaces that, mix of creativity go
abandoned until hand in hand with
very recently, then quality offerings,
put to social or opportunities for
cultural use, have new talent and pro-
come back like never moting all aspects
before to bring a of production.
new perspective on What’s more, both
culture, education, spaces have become
solidarity and art. centres for social
Matadero Madrid and local initiatives
and La Casa Encen- as well as hubs for
dida are two clear intellectuals, crea-
examples of this. tive minds and mod-
Both have shown ern masterpieces.

140
a must Matadero Madrid is the cultural epicentre in and around Madrid Río.
 my madrid
key words

RESTORATION // ART
CULTURE // COURSES // WORKSHOPS // ALTERNATIVE
THEATRE // NEW CREATORS
MULTIDISCIPLINARY // SOLIDARITY // ENVIRONMENT

M ATA D E R O : Río project. Helga

NOTHING Rarely has remod- de Alvear
DIES, elling achieved gallery owner
EV E RY T H I N G such success: a
CHANGES disused area has
Paradoxically, at been converted the best of
Matadero Madrid into an avant-garde madrid
(a former slaugh- destination. for free
terhouse), there is And it never Exhibition spaces
nothing but life and stops. In the time at the Retiro:
constant activity. between reading Casa Velázquez
This huge complex these words and and the Glass
(the city’s largest your next visit Palace.
01 cultural space) has there, a new space
given a new pulse will likely have
to the capital, fea- opened, fresh THE MADRID
turing theatre, art, talent will have I LIKE BEST
books, music and been unveiled
cinema, surround- and the next cul- “The Lavapiés
ed by nature on the tural delicatessen district, which
edge of the Madrid announced.
is being
reinvented.”

to meet
up with
friends
El Pescador res-
taurant in Calle
José Ortega y
Gasset.
03 04

01 for everyone Activities in the Naves at my tip

Matadero have something for all ages. There are
02 hundreds of metres Plaza Matadero’s theatres in
esplanade comes to life at night.
Madrid with
03 & 04 cultural movement Since opening
Matadero has become one of excellent
02 Madrid’s cultural hubs. programmes.

141
 example
of
NEW
S PA C E S

restoration

O N E S PA C E , forget Naves del

01
ONE Español. Its two As a slaugh-
DISCIPLINE halls are fully terhouse and
The size of Matade- equipped to stage livestock mar-
ro Madrid means it any show and ket since 1928,
can offer multiple its focus is on covering no less
spaces dedicated research in the field than 165,000
exclusively to cer- of performing arts. m2, this location
tain disciplines. This overview was in disre-
Intermediae and wouldn’t be com- pair by the 70s
Central de Diseño plete without a
are two venues that visit outside to
act as a catalyst Plaza Matadero,
between creators where open-air 75% has
and citizens: the activities are held.
gone towards
cultural use
first welcomes
collective projects
open to partici- and fostering
pation, whereas creativity
the second holds 03
projects related to
graphic, industrial 02
and interior design.
Nave 16 is Madrid’s and required a
largest exhibition rethink.
hall, and Nave de The decision was
Música boasts a made to convert
stage, rehears- 75% of it to cul-
al rooms and a 04 05 tural use to foster
recording studio. creativity, respect
The cinema Cine- 01 exhibitions Archaeology exhibit organised at Matadero. the space to
teca mainly shows 02 cineteca The only venue in Madrid dedicated to non-fiction film. the full, limit the
03 party! Plaza Matadero is large enough to host important exhibi-
non-fiction films, use of industrial
tions, events, concerts and music festivals.
while Casa del 04 all art Artistic touches in the Cineteca foyer. materials, be sus-
Lector is all about 05 sound space Glimpse of the Nave de Música at Matadero. tainable and pre-
reading and its 06 la casa encendida The centre is located in a building on Ronda de serve the marvel-
Valencia, which was formerly the Monte de Piedad pawnbrokers.
different forms lous functional
07 open-air Concert on the terrace at La Casa Encendida.
of expression. 08 09 & 10 plus Promoting art, music and the environment in the architecture of
And let us not central courtyard, for the little ones too. its buildings.

142
 06

LA CASA on four themes:

E N C E N D I DA : solidarity, the envi-
THE FLAME ronment, culture
O F C R E AT I O N and education.
With its unusual Located in a late
name (taken from 19th-century build- 08
a book by poet ing, its laboratories
Luis Rosales), this play host to radio,
building is home to photography and
a social and cultural multimedia works.
centre, just five min- Its magnificent cen-
utes from Atocha tral courtyard stages
station and practical- concerts and special
ly next to the Reina music sessions.
Sofía Museum. Its terrace is a
A venue for must-visit: sit 09
avant-garde exhibi- back and have a
tions and contem- relaxing chat while
porary authors, it’s glancing from time
well known for its to time at the roof-
packed programme tops of Lavapiés,
of courses and the capital’s old
workshops based Jewish quarter. 07 10

check out All its activites at mataderomadrid.org and lacasaencendida.es 143

 food & drink

EL shopping & leisure

A LT E R N AT I V E
MADRID L AVA P I É S / E M B A J A D O R E S
MADRID
+ REAL art & culture

nightlife

discover it!
MADRID
M U LT I C U LT U R A L W I T H
A T R A D I T I O NA L S O U L
Welcome to Thai, Cuban and
Lavapiés, the African restaurants.
most international A cocktail of
district in Madrid. cultures living
More than 20 dif- peacefully in a
ferent nationalities neighbourhood
have found their whose streets play
place in its streets, host to traditional
giving the area Spanish verbenas
the multiracial (street dances),
and cosmopolitan like San Lorenzo, 01
character that and international
it’s famous for. celebrations, like est neighbourhood much more than lining its streets.
Food stores selling the Chinese New in Madrid, cradle that. In recent Contemporary
Arabic products Year. At its core, of Manolos and years, it has art has its place
intermingle with its history survives Manolas, the nick- become a nucleus in the galleries
shops run by the through its oldest name given to its of Madrid under- on Doctor Four-
Chinese com- buildings. Not in inhabitants since ground culture, quet and on the
munity and the vain, Lavapiés is the 16th century. with alternative walls of buildings
flavours of Indian, known as the old- But, Lavapiés is theatre venues like Tabacalera.

144
a must Take a trip around the world through the international restaurants.
 key words

MULTICULTURAL
UNDERGROUND // THEATRE // ART//
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
VERBENAS // TRADITION // CORRALAS

R E M NA N TS O F large courtyards
T H E PA S T surrounded by small
You can’t under- apartments, built
stand Madrid’s in the 16th century,
history without a when thousands
visit to Lavapiés. migrated from the
The traditional countryside to
neighbourhood par Madrid. There are 05
excellence, source of still some left. The
inspiration for zarzue- best preserved can Facing onto Mesón
la songs and sainete be found in Calle de Paredes, they
comic operas, Tribulete on the cor- were built in 1872 and
holds the city’s ner with Sombrerete. restored in 1979, as a
past in its stones. venue for live shows.

The Jewish Quarter Escuelas Pías

It has never been
confirmed, but many
historians maintain
that in the middle
ages, Lavapiés was
the Jewish quarter.
The remnants of this
old Jewish quarter
are buried under
the foundations of
the picturesque San
Lorenzo church,
which, they say,
was built on an
old synagogue.
The corralas
In the narrow streets 01
of this neighbour- 02
hood, you’ll soon 03
04
stumble upon older
05
constructions: the 06
corralas. These are 07
The history of the
02 06 neighbourhood
is also hidden in
its rooftops. If you
want to enjoy the
perfect panoramic
03 view of Lavapiés, you
need to go up onto
the roof of the old
Escuelas Pías de San
Fernando. Built in
the 17th century, the
building now houses
the UNED distance
university library.
04 07 There is a wonderful
bar and restaurant
flavours The area is packed with charming eateries. on the fourth floor,
community-minded Neighbours’ groups organise activities. with views over the
culture for everyone Workshops, exhibitions and courses in Tabacalera. rooftops of Lavapiés,
in san fernando market At La Casquería, books are sold by weight.
of a corrala and
respect for the past A listed façade is home to El Café El Mar.
up on the roof From Escuelas Pías you can get a bird’s eye view of Lavapiés. of the dome of
Rehabilitation In 2004, the new UNED library was opened. the old church.

145
 L AVA P I É S
E M B A JA D O R E S

01

GLOBAL
F L AV O U R S
More than 20 dif-
ferent nationalities
live in Lavapiés.
This multicultural
catalogue has
converted the
neighbourhood’s
gastronomy into
a journey around
the world. Next to
plaza de Lavapiés is
a concentration of
Indian restaurants.
Here you can enjoy 02
specialities like
lamb masala, dal 01 panoramic food From the rooftop of
Escuelas Pías de San Fernando.
makhni or naan 02 organic products El Café El Mar shares its
bread. Senegalese premises with a shop, EnBioverde.
cuisine has its 03 nightlife In the bars and on the terraces.
04 lady gaga’s headwear Designer Assaad
place on plaza
Awad has his workshop in Lavapiés.
de Cabestreros 05 authentic Traditional premises.
and, if you want
to sample Arabic not to forget the Calle Argumosa is
food, then go to classic kebab packed with bars
Mesón de Paredes. shops spread and terraces. Book- 03
Don’t miss the across the area. shop-cafés are one
traditional harira, Of course, we of the latest inno-
a Moroccan soup mustn’t forget vations to come to
made with meat, Spanish cuisine. In the neighbourhood.
tomato and puls- Lavapiés, it’s easy There, you can
es, which is eaten to find classic bars enjoy an excellent
during Ramadan. and restaurants, coffee, something
This neighbour- where you can sweet and even an
hood is also home sample Madrid original cocktail,
to the joys of Thai, culinary traditions. while you lose your-
Chinese, Italian If you fancy a beer self in the pleasure
and Greek cuisine, and some tapas, of a good book. 04 05

146
 my madrid

Lucas Arraut performances and

journalist children’s activities.

an idea for Alternative venues

shoppers In recent years,
Mini Shop, underground culture
a tiny and experimental
06 menswear shop theatre have made
with enormous Lavapiés their ter-
06 & 08 on an old factory The current taste ritory. Numerous
headquarters of Teatro Circo Price, opened
(Limón, 24). alternative theatre
in 2007, on Ronda de Atocha.
07 workshops It has an extensive programme. auditoriums have
09 cine doré Its façade has a Modernist sprung up in the
architectural style. C U L I NA RY neighbourhood’s
I N S P I R AT I O N streets. These
include Cuarta
“Comes to me in Pared (Ercilla, 17),
the supermarket a contemporary
in El Corte dance stage; Sala
07 08 09
Inglés on Tis (Primavera, 11),
where jamming
O N S TA G E es the headquar- Dramático Nacion- Calle Preciados.” and improvisa-
Film and theatre ters of Filmoteca al. The quality of its tion sessions are
have found them- Nacional, which programme is guar- organised, and Sala
selves a niche organises numer- anteed, attracting i’m seduced by Triángulo (Zurita,
in multicultural ous activities hosts of followers to Someone inviting 20), where there is
Lavapiés. Produc- including film-relat- the neighbourhood. me to eat cream space for the most
tions of classic ed events and film of crab soup in committed theatre.
works share a showings. Teatro Circo Price Alkalde (Jorge The Teatro del Arte
district with more All performing Juan, 10). (San Cosme y San
avant-garde perfor- Teatro Valle-Inclán arts are welcome Damián, 3), Puerta
mances. On plaza de at this cultural i’m always Estrecha (Amparo,
Lavapiés stands centre located on surprised by 94), Escalera de
Cine Doré the imposing Teatro Ronda de Atocha. Microteatro Por Jacob (Lavapiés, 9)
This impressive Valle-Inclán, one of Its programme is Dinero, one of and Sala Mirador
modernist building the city’s most dis- so varied that you the nicest and (Doctor Fourquet,
is also home to the tinguished theatres can see everything most special 31) are other more
oldest cinema in and headquarters from circuses to attractions in alternative audito-
the capital. It hous- of the Centro concerts, theatrical Madrid. riums in Lavapiés.

make the most of it Don’t miss theatrical performances at the alternative auditoriums. 147
V E R B E NA
NIGHTS 01
Lavapiés is synony-
mous with partying.
In its narrow and
colourful streets,
the oldest and most
popular celebra-
tions merge with
the festivities of its
currently multicul-
tural population.
Tradition takes
its turn in August
when Manolos go
out into the street
to celebrate two of
the most traditional
Madrid festivals:
San Cayetano (7
August) and San 02
Lorenzo (10 August).
01 fancy a sangria? The San Cayetano
But the different festivities take place in the Cascorro area. FROM have sprung up in
nationalities have 02 the chinese new year An unmissable SHOP its streets, offer-
also made their own calendar event. TO SHOP ing organic and
03 three in one La Fugitiva is a bookshop-
festivities into a Far from the glam- fair trade food,
café that also organises workshops.
tradition. For years, 04 new ideas San Fernando Market. our and luxury reflecting the dawn
the Lavapiés Chi- 05 always there Traditional shops. that you’ll see on of a new way of
nese community other avenues in understanding
has adorned the to which locals wood, attracting the capital, the community life.
neighbourhood and visitors to the artists from all over streets of Lavapiés However, it’s in the
to celebrate the neighbourhood the world. Plaza de exude tradition and markets where you
arrival of the new are invited. The Agustín Lara, Plaza warmth. Traditional get a real sense
year. Up to a month Indian community de Lavapiés and Pla- food stores alter- of Lavapiés.
beforehand, the has imported its za de la Corrala host nate with shops
streets and shops own festival. In early numerous free activ- offering foreign San Fernando
are coloured red June, the district ities: food festivals, products. What’s For years, among
to commemorate transforms into a craft markets, dance more, little by little, the more tradition-
this Spring Festival, scene from Bolly- classes and more. new businesses al stalls in the old

148
a tip Pay a visit to San Fernando, the old Lavapiés market.
 the
mecca of
L AVA P I É S
LITTLE BY LITTLE, E M B A JA D O R E S

alternative art
NEW BUSINESSES ARE
SPRINGING UP IN THE
NEIGHBOURHOOD,
COMMITTED TO FAIR
TRADE AND ORGANIC
PRODUCTS
Proximity to art
centres such as
the Reina Sofía
and La Casa
Encendida, has
filled Lavapiés
with numerous
art venues, like
Tabacalera. The

The Doctor
Fourquet
galleries house
work by young
05

contemporary Antón Martín

artists. A little to the north,
03 in Calle de Santa
Isabel, you’ll find
neighbourhood this market, a hub
market, numerous old tobacco of Lavapiés life.
businesses have factory is now an The building is
been opening that independent cul- divided into stalls,
sell local, organic, tural and social run by generations
artisan and, above centre, where of families that
all, affordable underground art have been there
products. has taken root. since it opened in
Go there to buy What’s more, the 50s, and more
organic food, oil, Calle Doctor innovative spaces,
wine, cheese and Fourquet has which introduce
artisan breads, been home to new products and
beers of all types, some of the organise exhibi-
vegan products, most interesting tions and concerts,
artisan products contemporary art to provide an expe-
and even books by galleries for rience that goes
weight. 04 several years. beyond shopping.

149
 USEFUL
INFORMATION
On these pages we give you all the information you need to plan your visit to Madrid.
To update all the information before you travel, go to the esmadrid.com website.

PRACTICAL
INFORMATION
W E AT H E R PUBLIC ACCESSIBLE MADRID
As the weather is H O L I DAY S METRO GUIDES
normally dry with Madrid’s main festi- One of the most For users requir-
little rainfall, any vals are spread over accessible public ing this service,
time of year is per- the whole year. The transport services the City Council
fect for visiting the season starts with in Europe. Direct organises free
city. Region of Madrid lifts are available to tours adapted to
The most pleasant Day (2 May). San the public at 60% of any kind of physi-
temperatures can Isidro, Madrid’s most stations along the cal, visual, auditory
be enjoyed in May, traditional festival, is network and many or intellectual
June and Septem- on 15 May. In August, of the trains and car- disability. Services
ber, when they vary San Cayetano and riages comply with available on this
from 22 to 300C. In San Lorenzo (7 and the accessibility reg- type of tour include
summer, tempera- 10) are followed by La ulations established sign language
tures can climb to Paloma (15 August). by the Region of interpreters, expert
over 400C. However, On 9 November Madrid. guides trained in
because humidity is the city celebrates providing tours for
low, the heat is eas- the day of its patron EUROTAXI people with disabil-
ier to tolerate. saint, the Virgin of With identical fare ities and specially
In the winter Almudena. Plus, dur- rates to other taxis, selected topics
months, tempera- ing Easter there are these vehicles are according to the
tures fall to a daily lots of processions adapted for people level of participa-
average of around around the old part with disabilities. tion in the group.
90C. of the city and at To use them, you do Information line:
Christmas the capital not have to leave (+34) 91 454 44 10.
is packed with street your wheelchair to
markets and mul- travel by taxi and CULTURE
ti-coloured lights. To a series of safety The city’s main
see the old year out, measures are in museums, theatres
everyone goes to the place. and cultural cen-
Puerta del Sol clock Information and tres are all adapted
tower, and on the eve bookings: in order to cater
of Epiphany (6 Jan- (+34) 91 371 21 31/ for the require-
uary) there’s the 91 593 23 46/ ments of people
Three Kings parade. 91 547 86 00. with disabilities.

150
 w w w.e s m a d r i d . co m

AVERAGE ANNUAL (IN ºC) A N N UA L R A I N FA L L ( l / m 2)

TEMPERATURE
Jan Jan
Feb Feb
Mar Mar
Apr Apr
May May
Jun Jun
Jul Jul
Aug Aug
Sep Sep
Oct Oct
Nov Nov
Dec Dec
-10 -5 0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90

all year round no umbrella

OPENING
Spring and WIFI
The climate
TIMES Madrid has free
autumn, when in Madrid is
In Madrid opening Wi-Fi connection in
temperatures quite dry, so
hours are unregu- three centrally locat-
lated. This means
are mild, are ed squares, Plaza
you probably
that shops and
the best seasons de Santo Domingo,
won’t get wet.
department stores for exploring Plaza de Olavide It’s most
can open all year Madrid. Summer and Plaza Mayor, as likely to
round, including on is very quiet well as on the EMT rain in
Sundays and most because everyone bus service, in some February.
public holidays. is on holiday and public buildings and
Opening time tends winter is a fes- at marked newspa- rain
to be at 10am and tival of light and per kiosks. To see all
closing time is nor- colour. the Internet access
mally 8.30pm (for points around the
small shops) and seasons city, you can use the
10pm (shop- new Conectando-
ping centres). Madrid tool.

151
 MAP 1

152
MAP 2

MAP 1

153
 MAP 2

154
MAP 2

MAP 1

155
 TRANSPORT

w w w.e s m a d r i d . co m /e n / t ra n s p o r t - m a d r i d

taurants, pharmacies, through the night. Madrid-Barajas has Suburban train

post office, banks, car There is also a free over 10,000 park- network, known as
PRACTICAL rental, bookstores, shuttle bus which ing spaces spread the Cercanías.
INFO kiosks, shops, car operates between across seven zones High-speed
parks, emergency all terminals near the terminals. (Alta Velocidad)
area, medical service every five min There is also an This is the fastest
and police station. from 6.30am to express car park for option to travel
HOW There are several 11.30pm, every 20 short stays, a VIP car between the main
TO GET modes of transport to min from 11.30pm park and another Spanish cities, as
THERE get to Adolfo Suárez to 1.50am, and for long stays. well as being the
BY AIR Madrid-Barajas: every 40 min from most comfortable
Adolfo Suárez Metro 1.50am to 6.30am. TRAIN choice for its pas-
Madrid-Barajas On line 8 the journey Taxi Atocha and sengers. High-speed
All commercial flights from Nuevos Min- There is a fixed fare Chamartín trains, known as the
into Madrid land here. isterios takes less of 30 euros to and Madrid has an exten- AVE, connect Madrid
The airport is located than 20 min to T4 from the centre of sive train network to important cities
12km north-east of and just 12 min to Madrid, within the that provides trav- such as Barcelona,
the capital, which the other terminals. M-30 motorway. ellers with access Seville, Valencia,
saves travellers a lot A surcharge To catch a taxi you to the city from Malaga, Cordoba,
of time and money is payable. must go to the all of the different Zaragoza, Cuenca
getting around. Bus designated rank. parts of Spain. and Valladolid.
At present, there The Airport Express Cercanías Atocha and Middle-Distance
are four terminals service to the air- Line C-1 of this Chamartín are the (Media Distancia)
in operation at port runs 24 hours local train network two main stations, Middle-distance
Adolfo Suárez a day and goes to connects Príncipe receiving Middle-Dis- lines connect the
Madrid-Barajas. T1, T2 and T4. It has Pío station with tance (Media Distan- capital to towns and
T4 was the last to only three stops: Adolfo Suárez cia), Long-Distance cities all over Spain.
open, in February O’Donnell (junction Madrid-Barajas T4. (Larga Distancia), For trips from Gali-
2006, and its design, with Doctor Esquer- One leaves every High-Speed (Alta cia, Trenhotel offers
work of architects do), Plaza de Cibeles half hour. Velocidad), and a comfortable, high-
Antonio Lamela and Atocha train sta- Car Suburban (Cer- end night service in
and Richard Rog- tion (only between The airport is well canías) trains. a cabin-bed. There
ers, has received 6am and 11.30pm). connected to the International trains is also a Trenhotel
various awards. It completes its city’s main roads, from France and service between
The airport boasts entire route in about including the A1 and Portugal also go Madrid and Lisbon.
all the services and 40 min. There is a A2 highways and to Chamartín. Suburban
facilities you might bus every 15 min the M-40, M-11 and These two terminals (Cercanías)
need: children’s play during the day R-2 motorways. are connected to This service is made
area, cafés and res- and every 35 min Adolfo Suárez Sol station via the up of nine train lines

156
that run through the tions, with junctions HOW to 11.30pm. services as many
main municipalities between six national TO GET There are also times as you like.
of the Autonomous motorways: A-1 AROUND night buses, búhos,
Region of Madrid. (Madrid-Irún), A-2 METRO covering 27 routes PARKING
All of the lines pass (Madrid-Barcelona), This is the fastest from Plaza de Cibe- Although it’s best
through Atocha train A-3 (Madrid-Valencia), and most conven- les. not to drive around
station. Depending A-4 (Madrid-Seville), ient way to get the city centre,
on the area, the A-5 (Madrid-Badajoz) around the city. TAXI Madrid has a lot
same tickets as and A-6 (Madrid-A There are 12 under- There are 15,600 of car parks.
for buses and the Coruña). The stations ground and three taxis in Madrid, If you park in the
Metro can be used Sur (Méndez Álvaro, overground lines with increasing street, bear in mind
(monthly season 83) and Avenida plus a branch line numbers accepting the time restric-
tickets and tourist de América are the that connects credit cards. You tions: Monday to
travel passes, but most important bus Ópera and Príncipe can get one from Friday from 9am to
not single tickets). terminals in the city. Pío. a taxi rank, in the 9pm and Saturdays
They are the des- street or by phone. from 9am to 3pm.
ROADS tination points of BUS The charge depends
By car and bus bus companies that Madrid boasts a TOURIST on the time and
Madrid is at the connect Madrid to large city bus net- TRAVEL CARD space (blue for
centre of Spanish the main Spanish work, whose main This allows you to visitors, green
road communica- and European cities. lines run from 6am use all transport for residents).

157
 POCKET
MAP

158
 Tarjeta turística oficial 2IŦFLDOWRXULVWFDUG

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