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AIR 75 cover.

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DEC 2017/JAN 2018 • £6.50 UK $15.99


Oto Drobík ’S 1:72 PACIFIC B-25 MITCHELL
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2 F-14A
Christoff Theunissen’s 1:48 Tamiya build.

10 Yellow Two
Franck Oudin replicates a famous Me 262 in 1:32.

18 Bella Ballila
The Editor embarks on his build of the Aviattic 1:32 Ansaldo A.1

24 Bristol Fashion
Kristof Pulinckx gets nostalgic with the 1:72 Airfix Beaufighter.

34 Apache Warrior
Oto Drobík’s 1:72 Pacific Mitchell

44 Air Borne
New releases.

56 Swedish Bulldog
Anders Isaksson builds the Tarangus splintered-spotter.

Seasons Greetings
from all of us at
Meng AIR Modeller

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AIR 75 Dec/Jan 2017/18.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/11/2017 11:35 Page 2

The Grumman F-14 Tomcat needs no introduction.

Apart from its cinematic performances, its elegant lines,
good looks, and diversity of operations towards the end of
its career, the Tomcat is an aircraft that has reached iconic
status. Also needing no introduction whatsoever, the
Tamiya F-14 kit captured the hearts, minds and shelves of
many modellers. Although not without some niggles, it is
arguably the best Tomcat model available.

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Since building the kit for the first time towards the end of 2016, I On the downside there is only average detail in the
could not wait to start another. That is simply because it is as undercarriage bays and the lack of separate flaps and slats. The
near a perfect kit as I have ever encountered. Compared to absence of parts to build any other version than the early A, with
other offerings, the Tamiya kit features better surface detail, no tail stiffeners. Also lacking is the television camera system
better accuracy, and a better shape overall. Most importantly, it (TCS) pod under the nose, as well as the various blisters and
builds smoothly with practically no filler required at all. The bumps for the ECM antennas fitted and/or retrofitted to most, if
engineering and fit of parts is a marvel, and one sometimes has not all Tomcats eventually. That being said, the kit builds like a
to restrain yourself from not running away with the construction dream, which counts for a lot!
stages of this kit.

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The Front End… Fuselage…

The detail provided in the cockpit is crisp and captures the look of After completing the cockpit, the rest of the nose assembly went
the Tomcat front office. Tamiya went with the basics here though, together smoothly, apart from adding some details to the front
as the kit lacks the multitude of wires on the bulkheads behind the undercarriage bay. Again, the separate gun vent panels hint at a
seats, and air conditioning trunking that runs inside the canopy possible later version being released at some point, and they fit to
frame. Rather nice decals for the various electronic displays are the rest of the nose without any gaps or sanding required: a
provided, and look good with the nicely detailed figures that come perfect fit! I then proceeded to modify the gun vent for the early 7-
with the kit. The engineering of the cockpit instrument panels hint holed style using Tamiya filler putty and a scriber, and used a TCS
at a possible future release of a different version, as they are all pod from a spare Hasegawa kit. The often-neglected yaw string
separate from the cockpit tub. Construction of the cockpit went on the nose was added using stretched sprue.
without a hitch, and the only aftermarket parts I opted to use were
the Squadron resin ejection seats.
Tamiya’s excellent engineering and fit continued throughout the
rest of the fuselage construction process. The slotted wings are a
nice feature as it allows the modeller to finish the model without
having to fit the wings until final assembly, so avoiding them
bumping against everything. The undercarriage bays were
detailed using stretched sprue and brass wire, and nestled
beautifully between the fuselage halves and the intake trunking.
The ejector pin marks inside the intake trunking were
cleaned up, with the intake assemblies literally
clicking into their positions onto the fuselage.

The cockpit features fine raised and

recessed details that paint- up quite nicely.
The completed cockpit features nicely
detailed seats from Squadron Products
After joining the top and bottom fuselage halves,
and bring the cockpit to life.
the exhaust heat exchanger fairings came next.
These were just about the only parts that
required a bit of sanding and filler to close gaps,
but then again, it might be my own fault. The
exhaust cans were left off to add later on,
ensuring an easier painting process. I also built
and prepared the various other subassemblies
like the undercarriage, undercarriage bay doors,
wings and weapons at this point, enabling me to
paint everything in the same session.

The cockpit assembly fits snugly inside

the two nose halves.

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The completed nose assembly Small additions bring the standard kit
illustrates the great fit of the kit undercarriage bays to life. Good
parts, with no filler and very little references come in handy when
sanding required. adding detail to the kit parts.

The various panels that complete the

nose assembly fit like a glove. Also
seen here is the Hasegawa TCS pod
and modified gun vent.

Moving on to Paint!
The model was painted and finished in the colours
of Gypsy 207 from VF-32, the Fighting Swordsmen.
This aircraft had the honour of scoring a kill against
a Libyan Mig in 1989, depicted upon its return
ashore by which time the kill mark on the nose had
been painted over.

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Painting started with a priming coat of Tamiya TS-29 Satin Gypsy 207
Black, decanted and airbrushed onto the model for the black After a coat of Klear, followed by polishing cloths to prepare the
base coat. Next, I applied Tamiya AS-26 Light Ghost Grey in surfaces, I used the markings for Gypsy 207 from the Furball
mottled patterns, avoiding most of the panel lines at this point. Aero-Design sheet (F/D&S 4808). The decals went on
Following this, XF-1 Flat Black was used to form the outlines of beautifully and without any issues, only assisted by MicroSet
the touched-up paint blotches and areas, followed by carefully and MicroSol setting solutions. The tails required a different
filling in the same areas with XF-19 Sky Grey and several other approach though, as Furball provides the AC and Sword as a
shades of grey. These areas will form the ‘blotches’ of touched- single decal covering the entire tail surface. I opted to cut out
up paint so characteristic to US Naval aircraft. the AC and Sword from the rest of the decal, and applied it
over a surface that was colour matched to the decal. Carefully
For the overall tactical paint scheme, Tamiya AS-26 Light Ghost applied spots of the grey camouflage paint were then applied
Grey and a mixture of XF-20 Medium Grey, XF-19 Sky Grey and over the decals to further merge the painted and decal
XF-50 Field Grey for the medium grey was used. These were surfaces. This allowed me to maintain the weathered, painted
applied gradually in thin coats for the previously shaded areas look of the rest of the model.
to show through the topcoat to good effect. Shades of the two
greys were used to augment the touched-up areas and
patches, with a greyish brown colour used to simulate high
traffic areas with accumulated dirt. A mix of brown and rubber A coat of Klear sealed in the decals, and after another polish of
black Tamiya enamels were used for the panel line wash. The the surfaces using Micromesh sheets, I applied a wash using
wash was applied to the panel lines, allowing capillary action to dark brown, grey-ish Tamiya enamels with a blunt, flat tipped
draw the wash into the recesses. Any excess was cleaned with brush to areas that suffered the heaviest wear and tear. As the
a broad brush dampened with Tamiya enamel thinners. The wash dried, it was stippled with the same brush to achieve the
wings, elevators, weapons, pylons, external fuel tanks and desired effect of accumulated dirt from boots and gloves. The
undercarriage bay doors were also painted and weathered at exhaust cans were painted using a combination Alclad II
this stage, and put aside to fit later on. lacquers and Tamiya enamels, and glued into place.

The completed fuselage assembly showing

the Furball tail stiffeners. The kit includes
pre-printed canopy masks, however, since
this was a pre-production kit I used Tamiya
masking tape throughout.

Painting started with black to form the

base of the preshading to follow.

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Light ghost grey and Sky Grey was applied in

tight mottles, mostly avoiding panel lines.
References of the real thing came in handy
to replicate the characteristic shading and
weathered effect of US Naval aircraft.
Black was then applied to form the outlines
of the touched-up anti-corrosion areas

Next, various greys were used to fill in the previously

outlined black areas to form the anti-corrosion repainted
areas. The two-tone camouflage colours of Light Ghost
Grey and Medium Grey were applied in translucent coats
in order for the preshading to show its full effect.

An enamel wash of dark grey-ish brown

accentuated panel lines and other details
were painted using Vallejo and Tamiya
acrylics. Tamiya enamel washes were
stippled on with a blunt tipped brush to
create the scuffed accumulated dirt from
crew boots and weathering. A black Micron
pen and artists’ oils were used to create oil
and hydraulic fluid streaks.

The Furball Aero-Design decals bring the

Final Stretch… Tomcat to life, and performed beautifully.
The kit does not provide the AIM-7L
Sparrow used later-on and in much bigger The exhausts were painted
numbers. Instead, an earlier version is with various Alclad II and
provided and not what I needed. I Tamiya metallic colours, and
a wash brings it to life.
scrounged an L version Sparrow from an
Academy F-4 kit in my collection, and
used the kit provided AIM-9 Sidewinders
for the TACTS pod and accompanying
heat seeker module. I did, however, use
the Tamiya weapons’ stencils to decal the
various sensors and weapons. Other
items scrounged from different kits are the
vinyl tyres and white metal wheels from
Hasegawa, as they look better than the kit
counterparts in my opinion.

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After adding some oil streaks using dark grey artists oil paints and a Micron pen, the
model and its subassemblies were given a coat of Humbrol Satin Varnish. I added a
metal pitot tube and AOA sensor from DXM, and fixed the various subassemblies in
place. With that done, I could finally add the completed model next to my previous
Tamiya Turkey, coincidentally, also a Gypsy, and enjoy the marvel that Tamiya has
created for us modellers to enjoy.

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AIR 75 Dec/Jan 2017/18.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 06/11/2017 11:38 Page 10

Modelled by Franck Oudin

Historical notes by
David E. Brown

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his aircraft was abandoned at Ruzyně airfield and NOTE. Available information on I./KG(J) 54 aircraft suggests

T discovered there after the war, but nothing is

known about its career. The few available entries
by I./KG(J) 54 pilots unfortunately do not refer to “Yellow 2”.
it could be W.Nr.110560, 110606, or 110616. It was most
likely solely used by KG(J) 54, having been assigned to the
unit while it was still using the earlier style of markings. An
The aircraft’s appearance is therefore the only lead elaborately executed “Totenkopf” unit emblem all but
available. Both camouflage and position of fuselage excludes the possibility of the aircraft arriving from KG 51 in
crosses suggest Messerschmitt Augsburg, Schwäbisch April, as by then there was no time left for such "details".
Hall or Leipheim workshops as the manufacturer. It The aircraft saw intense action as documented by a
belonged to the 110xxx batch, within either the 546 - 570 replaced nose, which suggests either extensive combat
or 569 – 620 batch with its production date sometime damage or front wheel technical problems with
between December 1944 and February 1945. subsequent replacement of the whole front section.

The unit emblem leaves no doubt about aircraft's assignment to I.

Gruppe, its yellow number points to the 3. Staffel. KG(J) 54
frequently modified the camouflage of its aircraft, which was also
the case of this plane. The standard base was a pattern of RLM 81
and 82 on the fuselage with a horizontal division line with RLM 76
roughly in the middle of the fuselage. This line was shaped into a
fairly regular series of small waves; mottles of both dark colours
were applied on the fuselage sides. A similar camouflage pattern
can be found on a fuselage coded B3+DL, W.Nr.1106?? (3./KG(J) 54)
that was found with two other Me 262 fuselages abandoned in
Giebelstadt: W.Nr.W.Nr.110567, B3+CL (3./KG(J) 54) and
W.Nr.111630, B3+EK (2./KG(J) 54).

Me 262A-1a,
1: 3 2

3./KG(J) 54 11
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Light, snaky patches were applied on top of this original the weapons, and so the part was most likely manufactured by
camouflage pattern. They were a notch darker than RLM 76 on Messerschmitt in Regensburg, i.e. a completely different
the lower surfaces, but much lighter than dark colours of the top. It manufacturer.
could possibly have been green-blue frequently used instead of
RLM 76. The patches stretched from the fuselage spine all the Markings
way down to the lower edge of fuselage profile. In some sections The black-outlined yellow number “2” was not the original tactical
of the fuselage the painters considered them too light, so narrow marking. Dark patches under the digit suggest an earlier marking
stripes of very dark paint were added, most likely a dark green, "B3+??". The re-marking most likely took place at the same time a
possibly RLM 83 or even 70 or 71. The dark stripes more or less blue-and-white chequered band was applied ahead of the tail unit
traced the shape of light mottles. Nevertheless, only the section and was probably a part of effort to unify markings according to
ahead of the trailing edge was modified this way. the "fighter" standard once the unit was registered as a fighter unit.
Other photo-documented Me 262s of III./KG(J) 54 had their
A similar pattern appeared on the wings, and to the standard markings modified in the same manner, such as "Yellow 3"
pattern of RLM 81 and 82 was added snaky mottles of green-blue, W.Nr.170302 found abandoned at München-Riem (this
occasionally with dark narrow stripes. The latter seem to have Werknummer listed on the 26th April Werknummer list), and
been applied very carelessly, as if with a rough brush. Similar light “White 1” of 1./KG(J) 54 that was shot down on 17 April 1945 near
coloured mottles occur on engine nacelles. On the other hand, Nesvačily. These were not exceptions as the I. Gruppe KG(J) 54
only light snaky mottles were applied on the standard pattern on emblem was painted on either side of the fuselage. With the
the elevator. It seems as if the dark paint was applied only in easily replacement of aircraft's nose section, the yellow and most likely
accessible areas. Even though the camouflage may seem very white-outlined 3. Staffel nose tip disappeared. Interestingly, Me
unusual, it was probably not all that exceptional, as confirmed by 262’s of KG(J) 54, unlike their KG 51 counterparts, did not have
aforementioned Me 262 of the same unit abandoned at their fin and rudder tips coloured.
Giebelstadt airfield; B3+DL, W.Nr.1106??, 3./KG(J) 54.
The aircraft is definitely one of the most interesting Me 262A’s
The nose section of “Yellow 2” had been replaced and provided photographed in Bohemia. Unfortunately, it is the only Me 262A of
with a totally different camouflage pattern corresponding with that I./KG(J) 54 that, despite their fairly high numbers in Bohemia, could
of late production Me 262’s with dark colours covering the entire be reconstructed.
fuselage top and sides. Whether this component came as a spare
part or from a cannibalized aircraft is not clear, even though the The kit
latter seems more likely, in particular due to the fact it was Trumpeter released this kit in 2006,and it’s still the best kit of this
provided with camouflage. A spare part would probably have been plane at that scale, even if as you will discover there are few fit
delivered uncamouflaged, all the more so since even new Me issues. Moulded in grey and with great surfaces details nothing is
262’s were given camouflage only upon completion of assembly. missing from the kit, canons bay, radio, and oxygen bottles….
No rectangular instruction markings can be distinguished below So let see what we can do with it….

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Fuselage Some wire is added under the cockpit tub to detail this area that is
Work start with cockpit as usual, the complete assembly is visible through the wheel wheels. Thin wires are glued together
upgraded with and Eduard pre painted PE set, which will give you and painted in yellow, then put in place, a good references is
great details, the complete assembly is painted RLM66, and a needed to place them correctly.The gun camera is also painted
light wash is applied to give a grim look to the assembly, I added and put into place.
the instruments cables behind the instruments panels, the
complete set of the radio and the gyroscope. The compressed air The complete fuselage can be now closed and all fits well, just be
bottles are painted and set aside, the inside is painted NMF as careful to aligned all the inserts, and liquid cement is run along the
most of the late war plane were bare metal inside. seams of the fuselage. The option offered by Trumpeter to leave
the canons bay open, was not in my mind as it break the line of
The 4 canons are painted gunmetal and glued in place, a light the superb shark-like lines of this plane, so here begins the fit
weathering is done with a wash, 4 lead weights are glued between issues as the doors don’t fit well at all, and some plasticard and
the cockpit and the canons bay to make sure the model will rest Mr Surfacer were needed to fill the gaps all around the doors.
on the front wheel.

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The wings
The wheel bay is painted NMF and the wing are glued together, and explained in details by David E Brown in his notes about the
the slats and flaps are detached and can be put in a lowered story of this machine.The painting was challenging but really
position if needed, it’s your choice. The complete engine are rewarding once the model done.
included in the kit and are a great basis for an extra detailing
project, as I had time I built both engine and inserted them The Reich band defence is masked and painted, then the decals
inside the cover, then the fun start as the fit is not so good and are applied the help of a setting solution. The weathering
again some plasticard, and filler is needed to have the best fit consists of applying several filters with very diluted colours
possible, again the same operation is necessary when the applied randomly to the model until the expected effects are
engines nacelles are glued to the wing a nasty gap appear on obtained. The rest of the details are now put on the model, a
each side of the nacelles, and have to be filled. Again some 0.1mm fishing line is put in place to simulate the antenna wire,
serious shaping of the air intake and exhausts is needed to have spring and isolators are scratch build, finally the central canopy
the best fit. The wings can now assembled with the fuselage, the is glued in place.
operation is a bit tricky as some alignment is necessary to avoid
using too much filler, but a sanding session will still be
necessary. Once done all the seams and glue satins are gently Conclusion
sanded. The landing gear are painted RLM66 the wheels are Once done the model looks impressive especially with this paint
from Barracudas studio and will graciously replace the ugly vinyl scheme, but to obtain the best result with this kit a fair amount
tires from the kit. of dry fitting and sanding is necessary, I think this is a general
comments that can be made about the all the new generation of
models with open hatches and open panels, who often are
Painting made to left open, but don’t fit very well, if you like me you
With this kind of subject it’s always hard to choose a scheme as decide to close them down.
there are so many to choose from, but one of them really attract
my eye, this is a Me262A-1a Yellow 2 from KG54 with a really With a wide range of painting schemes, and aftermarket
weird camouflage who look really attractive, but can be a bit detailing sets available, this kit should fulfill your expectations to
challenging if you are not master of your airbrush…. obtain a nice replica of the most advanced fighter in service with
The entire airframe is lightly polished before painting, then the Luftwaffe during the War and remains one of the most
painting start with the normal Me262 factory painting scheme beautiful airplanes ever designed.
RLM76/82/83, then the overspray is applied following the profile
available on the Japo and Kagero book related to the subject,

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Comments on Me 262A-1a “Yellow 2”,

WNr.110xxx, 3./KG(J) 54
David E. Brown July 29, 2014

This rather war-weary aircraft was photographed at Prag-Ruzyně in May 1945.

The faded nature of its original paint supports the view that this was a well-
used machine with a (relatively) long service life of constant combat as well as
subjected to the elements over the hard winter of 1944-45.
Based on its camouflage pattern, national markings style, and faired-in rudder
tail light, “Yellow 3” was a machine from the 1105xx to 1106xx series
produced by Mtt. Augsburg between December 1944 and February 1945. As
such, it wore a camouflage scheme of 81 braunviolett and 82 hellgrün upper
surfaces with 76 graublau undersides. Comparative photographic analysis of
other Me 262s with a similar camouflage scheme aircraft suggests that it
could be one of the following known I./KG(J) 54 aircraft: WNr. 110560, 110606
or 110616.
The style and colours of the unit’s Totenkopfwappen confirm that this machine
was operational with the unit’s I. Gruppe (white background). The small
diagonal line on the top left corner of the wappen is interpreted to be red
based on the observation that it is darker than the grey tone in the yellow
number "2" that is just visible over the top of the wing in the port side
photograph. This strongly infers that this aircraft was originally assigned to
KG(J) 54’s 2. Staffel.
In early March 1945, KG(J) 54 and KG(J) 6 received their respective blue/white
and red/black tailbands. It is interesting to note that photographs reveal
aircraft from these units showed a variety of tailband styles and sizes.
Photographs of KG(J) 54 Me 262, Bf 109 and Fw 190 aircraft confirm three
different styles, and KG(J) 6 Me 262 and Bf 109 aircraft two styles. Of these,
Yellow 2’s band is rather imprecisely applied.
At the same time, KG(J) 54 dispensed with its original alpha-numeric aircraft
codes and used simple number-based codes. Though painted over, the
remnants of Yellow 3’s original code are still visible, and appear s to be
"B3+?K". The third character is possibly a "B", so the complete code would
have been "B3+BK". Alternatively, it could have been "B3+EK", "B3+FK" or
B3+PK". Nevertheless, this third character would have been painted red and
outlined in white as is seen in photos of other contemporary KG(J) 54 aircraft.
When later assigned to the 3. Staffel, this aircraft was coded “Yellow 2”.

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It was probably at this time that Yellow 2 was given a hasty application of possibly RLM 02 or
a green- blue variety of RLM 76 in the form of narrow meandering bands, followed by thinner
bands of RLM 81 (dark brown or dark green variety), or perhaps even greens RLM 70 or 71.
Near the end of its active life it must have suffered an accident or combat damage that
required its nose replaced. The camouflage pattern of this component is reminiscent of that
seen applied to Mtt. Regensburg-built machines from 500xxx-5002xx series. For these
aircraft, RLM 81 and 82 were applied directly over natural metal without the benefit of a
primer, and also in a highly diluted form. The underside appears to have been painted with
76 though is dark and might be a variation of this shade.

More information on this aircraft and other Me 262s from KG(J) 6, KG(J) 54 and KG
51units can be found in the author’s book co-authored with Aleš Janda, Tomáš
Poruba, and Jan Vladař: “Luftwaffe Over Czech Territory 1945: III. - Messerschmitt
Me 262s of KG and KG(J) units”, JaPo Publishing (2011) – www.japo.eu

Thank you to Bob Brown from MDC to provide all the GSI products for this build, Roy
Sutherland from Barracudas Studio for the resin wheels set and finally David E. Brown/Tomas
Poruba for their great help, knowledge and profiles of this special machine.
I’m proud that this model is now part of the fantastic collection of Mr Roberto Aguilera
in Mexico.

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All Singing and Dancing The kit is available in two versions differing as it has been designed to offer absolute
essentially in the markings - the Italian levels of detail and accuracy. Consequently
The large scale World War One aircraft Airforce version with its dark stained you need to be confident in for example,
market has shifted from relative obscurity fuselage or as a Polish version with pale working with photoeched parts many of
to mainstream popularity over the last fuselage. The kit is mostly cast in resin with which are very small! Once you download
decade thanks mostly to the immensely evidence of state of the art 3D print the photo-lead 74 page instruction
popular Wingnut Wings range of injection technology used in its design. These are document you are left in little doubt that
moulded kits. This in turn has encouraged combined with three photoetched frets, this is not a kit to put together over a few
a dedicated aftermarket sector of several decal sheets and seat harness set evenings but one to savour and one not to
manufacturers like Aviattic offering a range to provide everything you will need to build be rushed. With that in mind we have
of enhancements, conversions, decals and an extremely detailed model, bar your decided to serialise the assembly of the kit
now Aviattic have released their first full choice of rigging line. I think it is fair to say and give this exceptional kit the space and
multi-media aircraft kit. that this is not a kit for the novice modeller, time it deserves.

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The basic engine components come together quite quickly although in my The rocker arms and springs are individually moulded for maximum detail and
haste I removed the ribs 1 and had to make new ones from plastic. In are well worth the effort but with no spares you need to take care as I lost a
opening the gap at the base of the cylinders I nicked one so a touch of filler spring which flew off the sprue, never to be found!
was required.

In the same way the spark plugs are all added individually! The plug leads are no less detailed requiring the folding of a photoetched conduit,
something best done with a photoetch folding tool. I used lead wire for the leads
and then glued the tiny photoetched connectors on the end. The whole assembly
was then set aside to be added after the engine had been painted.

Somewhat unusually the exhaust pipes are moulded solid and you are Happily I managed to get all six pipes drilled out and glued into position. Note
required to drill out the ends before cutting the chamfers at the end. my temporary replacement spring which was eventually substituted for a new
considerable care is needed to avoid splitting the resin while drilling out the resin one by Aviattic.

The base colours were applied to the engine with Alclad dull aluminium used I used copper wire to make the pair of pipes at the front of the engine and
for the engine block. The cylinders were painted with Vallejo AIr black which these were added after the cylinders were painted. The copper parts were
has an appropriate sheen and brush paints superbly. painted with a mix of Mr Metal Color and Alclad.
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The exhausts were brush painted using Lifecolor acrylics and working towards
a lighter pinky tone towards the end of each pipe. Because I intend to leave
the cowlings closed on the finished model I made the decision not the add
the wiring for the magnetos or to spent a lot of time weathering the engine
when only the exhausts will be visible.

Moving into the cockpit now I began to assemble aileron - control bar which is
situated beneath the pilot’s seat so could be skipped but I thought I would
take the plunge. For strength I soldered the pins into the pair of brackets.

Sandwiching the parts of the cross beam together and feeding them through
The final assembly will articulate like the real thing but i decided to fix it in
the top plate was fiddly and I had to widen the opening in the top plate. Even
position before it was painted.
so the fit was not perfect but more than acceptable given that it is under the

The kit offers a choice of approaches for the fuel tank and I chose the more
detailed version which required the removal of the fuselage floor where the
fuel tank is mounted. The unusual design of the fuselage means that you are effectively working in
an open-topped box which presents some unique challenges when painting
the interior. In tackling the interior plywood panels I opted for painting them
20 rather than using decals.
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The woodgrain pattern inside the fuselage was painted with a fine brush and
I used Mission Models acrylic paint to base coat the interior parts. MMP-082 oil paints, not without some difficulty in the deeper recesses of the fuselage
was used for the plywood and the darker MMP-016 for the structural where the opposite side of the fuselage obstructed the brush. Although I was
elements. less than happy with the look of the interior I consoled myself with the
knowledge that it will be hard to see very much inside the completed

The other component parts of the cockpit including the more visible ones like
the cockpit floor and instrument panel were given matching woodgrain effects
using oil colour over the same acrylic base. The preserved aircraft has a blue
and white painted instrument panel as it was a special presentation aircraft
but I supposed that a normal production aircraft would have a wooden finish.I
used a high contrast woodgrain effect to help it standout in the dark cockpit.

With the interior parts pre-painted fitting out the cockpit could begin starting
with the aileron controls 2 which are glued into the base of the cockpit.

I gave the instrument panel an overspray of transparent orange before adding

the instruments. The decals for the instrument dials are not key cut so you 3
have to use a punch and die to prepare them. I found it was necessary to
back the decal paper with plastic card to prevent the decal from ripping under
the punch. Fortunately there are three sets of each dial to allow for
missalignment. The separate brass instrument bezels were painted with Mr
Model color Brass to match the other brass parts on the panel and Vallejo Air
black was used for gun mount parts.

Above The seat frame 3 is next and slides into moulded groove on each side
of the fuselage.

Left Parts of the engine mount come with some large casting blocks that
extend behind a curved flange, which makes them extremely difficult to
remove and +- difficult to clean up once they have been. 21
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A dry fit test showed that I would have problems fitting the control column The floor was then glued into position resting on the bulkheads at either end.
through the ring 4 on the floor because of the rudder bar so I cut away the ring.

The control column assembly needs to have the support cross beam 5 dry The control column was then glued into place on the cockpit floor and the
fitted onto the main shaft before it is fitted into the cockpit. support cross beam was then aligned horizontally and glued to the seat frame.

The assorted switches and controls for the cockpit were assembled as a
group. The photoetched quadrants were simply glued together in layers rather
using the brass pins to align them as described in the kit instructions. The
locating holes for the pins on mine were not etched away and this seemed an
easier approach.

The engine mount parts 6 were then fitted into each side of the fuselage. The The quilted pilots seat was primed with Mr Finishing Surfacer Black 1500 and
rear parts which were so tricky to clean up proved almost as tricky to fit in sprayed with a Burnt Umber. The various lighter tones were then drybrushed
position and I could see that the nose was bending to one side, something I using Lifecolor Acrylics to create a well-worn appearance.
would need to try and correct.

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Fitting the Magneto in the cockpit requires a small plastic card shelf 7 to be The Magneto was then .glued in position on its shelf 8 .
installed, something that would have been much easier to do before all the
other parts had been installed so be aware if you are following the instruction
assembly sequence.

The centre metal section of the firewall was too wide to fit in the gap so I The pair of switches 9 were added to the other side of the cockpit.
sanded down the outer edges to get a better fit. It was painted with Mr Metal
Color Stainless.

The pilot’s seat support was then glued in place. As it will be almost entirely Back to the seat and the RB Productions seat harness included with the kit.
covered with the seat my paint finish was cursory. This uses pre-cut paper straps with photoetched buckles which I assembled
easily using PVA glue. I then added some stitching detail with acrylics and
some shading. The paper straps were very easily draped over the seat.

The finished seat is glued in place in the cockpit and the engine and
instrument panel are dry fitted to assess the overall look!
The project continues in the next issue
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t’s been over twenty years since I built my different approach to finishing the model with
last Airfix kit. Like many of us my first steps techniques mainly used on AFVs such as
in the modelling world were mainly with accumulated dirt, streaking, chipping and oil
Airfix kits. Over the years this classic brand and fuel stains.
have retooled many of their kits to bring them To get to the painting stage as soon as
up to today’s standards. This didn’t go possible I decided to build the kit straight from
unnoticed, I read various reviews and it the box. I only added the seatbelts which are
triggered me to go back to my roots and do made of masking tape. Purists will notice that
another Airfix build after all these years. the dome for the rear gunner / radio operator is
incorrect. That’s true, and well spotted, during
Besides the famous Spitfire the Beaufighter is the masking stages I damaged the ‘correct’
a warbird that really appeals to me. With the dome beyond repair and decided to use the
recent release of a brand new ‘Beau’ the other version that is included in the kit and is
choice was obvious, but being a die-hard AFV actually for the night fighter version of the
modeller the idea came to mind to take a Beaufighter...I hope you can forgive me!

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The inner details and the

cockpit are quite basic, but
more than enough for a 1:72
scale kit. Not much will be
visible anyway. They only
extras I added are the The doors of the wheel bays have nasty sinkholes, an easy
missing seatbelts which are solution to fill them is to glue a thin plastic card disk made
made of thin masking tape. with a punch & die of the same diameter in place with
superglue and when dry, sand it smooth.

Details are hand painted and some highlights are added A dark brown wash is applied over the whole interior to
to the interior. create some depth.

With the yellow propellor tips masked

they received a coat of NATO black along
with some interior parts.

The seam that exists after the fuselage parts are glued together is
filled with superglue and sanded smooth. The seams between the
fuselage and the wings are a bit too wide. The seam is filled with
Mr Surfacer and set to dry for 10 minutes.With some tissue paper
moistened with Xtreme Cleaner the excess putty is removed
leaving only putty there where it supposed to be, in the seam.

The landing gear is

assembled and test fitted.
This will be left separate for
easier painting and

When the complete

model is ready to paint
the canopies are
masked with Maskol.

The underside is painted first. I applied a

basecoat of Light Gull Grey, and
afterwards instead of highlighting the
inner surfaces of the panel, I decided to
highlight the panel lines and details. It’s
working the other way around to usual.

The top surface is

painted first with
RAF Ocean Grey.

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And by adding first

some white to the
base colour here
also the panelines
The front parts of the engine
are sprayed in a
cowlings and the exhaust are
lighter tone.
painted with Bronze from the AK-
Interactive Xtreme Metal range.

The masking for the D-day stripes takes some Before painting on the white parts I first applied With a sponge I also applied some Maskol
time if you want to make a decent job. Some some Maskol with a toothpick. Later, after at the same time to the front parts of the
measurements need to be taken to make sure all painting, the Maskol will be removed for instant cowlings.
lines are of an even width. chipping effects.

When the White paint is on and dry it’s safe to

start masking the areas that need to remain white.
NATO Black instead of pure black just looks more
natural in this scale.

When all the masking tape is

removed the model is
sprayed with several layers of
Tamiya X-22 to have a nice
smooth gloss coat to put the
decals on.

The decals from the kit are

really nice and include a fair
number of tiny stencils.

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The panel lines are accentuated with the paneliner for green and
grey camouflages. Don’t worry at this stage if you spill some paint.
When dried, the whole model is
sprayed with Ultra Matte Varnish, and
believe me, this is real matt!

With a flat brush damped in White spirit the excess Paneliner for sand and desert camouflage is used to The same colour is also used to accentuate
paneliner can easily be removed. But take care you give the wheels a wash. the panel lines on the underside of the
do this in the direction of flight. model.

The edges or the props are

chipped with a grey tone to
mimic wear and tear. A sponge
is used to ‘dab’ the colour

The landing gear is given a wash with...the wash for In this scale, chipping must be very
landing gear! subtle. A lighter tone of the basecoat
was used for this process concentrating
on the edges of the panels.

When all the panel lines treated with the

wash the look of the model will change
dramatically. The cylinders of the
engines are painted in
dark grey and polished
with Dark Steel pigment to
give them a metal finish.

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The wheels are given a wash mixed from

Europe Earth pigments and White Spirit.

Streaks are painted on with the same colours used for

accentuating the panel lines.

At the tail wheel area I applied some dark With a damped brush I blended the paint in until it
brown enamel paint ( AK 2072 ) and let it looks like accumulated dirt thrown up by the tail
dry for 5 minutes. wheel while the airplane is taxiing.

The same technique was applied to the invasion

stripes on the fuselage.

The soot stains from the exhaust

and cannon are done with Dark
Earth and black Pigments. In this
Some oil stains are painted
scale I opted to use pigment
on with Aircraft Engine Oil.
above spraying the exhaust stains
just to have more control.
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B-25 Mitchell was one of the most universal Allied aircraft in

WW2, which was successfully deployed on all major battlefields,
from Europe across the Mediterranean to the Pacific. This make
it possible to find countless variants, different camouflages, nose
art and also degrees of weathering. Originally I wanted to build a
variant B/C from the Mediterranean, because according to
photos, these Mitchels are perhaps the most weathered. In 1:48
scale only the former Accurate Miniatures B/C kits are available,
now released by Academy. I started to assemble this model but
due to the problems with assembly, I finally gave up. The J
variant was released by Revell, but it is the old kit with raised
panel lines. The B/C variant in 1:72 scale is available kit from
Italeri, but it is also an older kit with raised panel lines, so for me,
it was also out of the game. I finally resigned myself to a B
variant and I chose the Hasegawa kit. Originally kit was released
in 2003 and it was released and repackaged in different
variants, from Marine to variant H with the 75 mm cannon. In my
case, I chose the J with 8 machine guns in the nose of the

The Pacific B-25 I have selected served with the 345th BG “Air
Apaches” and specifically with BS 498. “Falcons”. which
featured the distinctive falcon head covering the nose. Originally
I wanted to build an aircraft in bare metal finish, the famous
“Lady lil”. Decals with Lady Lil are available from Zotz Decals,
but eventually, I decided not to build this well known aircraft for
two main reasons. The first reason was, that for models with
metallic finish it is better for me to have as few decals as
possible and to replace any decals with masks and with
airbrushing. Decal on metal surface is usually more apparent
and more raised over surface, than decals on a camouflaged
surface. The second reason was that I wanted add rivets over all
the surfaces on the B-25. I do not have so much experience
with riveting, but i know one thing. If i want model with metal
surface, riveting must be absolutely precise and rivets lines must
be absolutely accurate symmetrical, because any irregularities,
curved lines and another mistakes are much more visible on a
bare metal surface than a camouflaged surface.

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Interior improved with The whole surface i rivered by Rossie the Riveter, as
etched parts from template I used an etched template from Eduard and thin
Eduard Big-Ed. Dyno tape.

That’s why I started to look for and my scale model club, owns one of model. Time is also a consideration
camouflaged aircraft with falcon’s head. I these home plotters. The huge because decals can be applied quickly
found older decals from Eagle Strike for advantage of making your own masks is but airbrushing complicated shapes
the J variant, with the falcon’s head and that you can make quantity that you need thought masks takes much more time. In
in olive drab camouflage. Unfortunately it for insgnias, numbers, etc. When this case, the Falcon’s head had lot of
appears that these decals were designed markings are aibrushed using masks it steps and it took me a few hours to
for older kit from Airfix, which had a always looks better than decals on the complete. When I searched for photos
slightly diferent shape meaning these finished model. The disadvatage of and references, I could not find a photo
decals would not fit Hasegawa kit making your own masks is that you can of my chosen aircraft. So I could not
properly. For this reason I scanned the not make complicated shapes with lot of verify the accuracy of the markings, so I
decals and used them as a basis to colours and curves. In my case the looked at pictures of other aircraft from
make my own masks. Nowadays, home problem was the Apache head on the the same unit, and tried base my
plotters are also available for home use rudders. It was the only decal used on weathering working from these photos.

I used resin guns from Quickboost, these were drilled to improve the
the fixing of the fragile barrels. Before airbrushing paints I primed the
whole interior with Black Mr Surfacer 1500 from GSI.

The basecoat interior green was gently lightened with white. The
bomb bay was airbrushed with silver SM01 and all details were
highlighted with Dark wash AMMO of Mig.

The bomb bay was partially fitted with etched parts from Eduard.
The remaining parts, such as the rods of bomb bay covers, I would
add during the final assembly.

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Next step was adding details as machine

guns, cartridge belts, etc
Ribs and raised details all slighty highlighted
by using a drybrushing technique.

The seats were

considerably improved
with etched seatbelts.
Small scratches were
made with a silver pencil.

I decided to use decals for

the instrument panel, as it
would hardly be visible in
this scale.

The replacement resin engines from

Quickboost are significantly better than
plastic, but still need the cables adding.

As with the interior, the whole

model was given a primer coat
of black Mr Surfacer 1500
from GSI.

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Base colours from the Mr Hobby

range from GSI; camouflage Olive
Drab C12 and Neutral Grey C13.

Strongly diluted black paint was used to define the panels and panellines on both the upper and lower surfaces.

Subsequently I airbrushed extremly densely the inside of panels with

thinned white paint and also made few white lines in the direction of
flight. The reason was that black primer surface dramatically darkened
basic camouflague colours, mainly the olive drab.

Then I started overlay the surface with a diluted

mix of colours Olive Drab C12, Sandy Yellow C39
and Light Grey C315 in ratio of approximately
4:1:1. I apply this procedure for most of my
models. I mean extreme darkening and then
extreme brightening of the basic camouflage
colours. Then overlaying surface with diluted
base colours The reason is, that I have better
control over individual areas and usually I
reapeat this procedure several times.

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National insignia were aibrushed with masks. It was first time for me and I made a basic mistake, that I
started with the base white colour and then I airbushed the dark blue. After removing the masks, I had a
white outline in places which took some time to repair. Therefore, the next time I reversed the colour order.
The masking and paint progression for the nose markings which took some time but was well worth the
effort as they look much better than the decals would have done. Final result looks
much better then
if i used decals.

I covered the entire model with Dark Wash from AMMO of The entire model was varnished matt finish C182 with few
Mig to pick out the panel lines and rivets, it was left for drops of gloss varnish C46. Then I made a lot of sratches
about 30 minutes, before I wipped it off. with a silver pencil.

For the majority of B-25 is typical

strong staining from exhausts. The
first layer I aibrushed with diluted
black colour. Then I airbrushed the
highlight shades with a heavily diluted
mix of white and
light grey colours.

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new releases

Wingnut Wings 1:32 Jeannin Stahltaube 1914

The latest very distinctive addition to the Wingnut Wings range is choice of propeller designs, exhausts and includes some great
the unarmed Jeannin Stahltaube with its bird-like design hinting at little touches like the tiny Luger pistol with shoulder stock and 20
its origins from the beginning of flying. It makes for an impressively kilo bombs. Rigging is fairly extensive especially around the tail
large model at this scale and the warping wing design has been but the instructions give a comprehensive rigging guide for your
elegantly replicated along with the superbly delicate tail feathers, choice of rigging material. The high quality Cartograph decal
sorry, tail plane. The early nature of the design is reflected in the sheet offers a choice of five different colour schemes, all of which
simplistic cockpit which as usual assembles into a stand alone tub are quite muted in contrast to the later German aircraft of the
to be fitted into the outer fuselage shell and into which the fully period. The huge eisernkreuz for the wings of scheme C will
detailed engine also sits. As usual the modeller is aided by require some careful handling as will the unique burnished metal
Wingnut’s renowned instruction booklets which are still the best in pattern on the aluminium engine cowlings. Delicate, different and
the business and provide colour guides throughout the assembly delightful and surely another distinctive addition to this popular
and clearly show the optional production variations. Photoetched range of kits which continue to lead the way in terms of kit design,
44 spoked wheels are included along with a chunkier injection engineering and presentation.
moulded versions if don’t get on with photoetch. The kit provides a Details of the full Wingnut Wings range at: www.wingnutwings.com
AIR 75 Dec/Jan 2017/18.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/11/2017 15:29 Page 45

Eduard 1:48 Fw 190A-4 ProfiPack Edition

Here's a completely brand new kit from Eduard, no revisited done with specific open or closed canopies and the photoetch
tooling or bits from here and there; it’s all new. We’re lucky to covers mainly the cockpit and will look excellent. Separate control
have a sample of the 'ProfiPack' version which includes Eduard’s surfaces are offered for the tail and ailerons while the flaps remain
famous photoetch, which is pre-coloured, and a set of painting fixed (a separate photoetch set is available and the kit appears to
masks which are kiss-cut ready to peel and use. have internal guide points moulded to help with fitting). A basic
Now, we have a contributor working on this kit at the moment engine face is offered and the wheel wells have multiple parts and
complete with a whole host of upgrades from the Eduard range nice landing gear. We like Eduards's ‘'pick-and-mix’ approach with
which have been released simultaneously (more on these later). the basic Weekend kits offering great value for the ‘bare’ kit and
Not wanting to be a 'spoiler' as we'll bring you the full feature very all of the upgrades to choose from for the more experienced
soon, suffice to say he's enjoying the build very much indeed. On modeller. Five options come on the decal sheet with very diverse
opening this box we can see why, the first thing that strikes you is paint finishes, a fully detailed stencil set is also included and decal
the sheer finesse of the moulding with superb surface detail, quality matches the high standard of the rest of the kit. We'll leave
another thing is the sheer number of parts but there appears to it at that until we share the full story on this excellent new release,
be at least half of these parts destined for the spares box to serve if you just cant wait go to www.eduard.com.
other versions to be released in future. A clear sprue is very well

Some new products from the Iwata experts at The holder as well as a place to discharge any unwanted
Airbrush Company to enhance your airbrushing paint or cleaning fluid these certainly are a clean way
pleasure. Iwata Lube is special formulated to keep to work for your desk and the air around it. Another
moving parts of your ‘brush operating smoothly by very convenient accessory is a desk-edge holder to
maintaining it’s viscosity and is free from silicone accommodate two airbrushes safely, the base clamp
(something you don’t really want anywhere you’re looks like it would adapt to most work surfaces and the
painting). Something that I personally use and wouldn’t multi-posable holders include a fitting to 45
be without is a spray-out pot, doubling as an airbrush accommodate the spray-out pot.www.airbrushes.com
AIR 75 Dec/Jan 2017/18.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/11/2017 15:29 Page 46

Revell 1:32 H145M LUH KSK

A revamp of Revell’s excellent ‘Eurocopter’ in this latest guise of

military surveillance and troop transport. This box is absolutely with the look of moulded-on seat belts there’s a fair amount of
bursting at the seams, which looks a little daunting at first but you sanding to do, maybe some careful paint effects or using the
soon realise many of the parts are from older versions of the kit decals supplied will be the best bet for the rear but the cockpit
and not used. Moulded in a welcome mid-grey the sprues show seats are more visible. Finishing for both versions is an overall
some excellent delicate detail on both the older and new parts, dark grey with markings for German aircraft currently operating,
this is what Revell are capable of with their new-tooled kits! decals are superb with some great detail on the cockpit display
Equally impressive are the clear parts, crystal; and with convincing monitors. So of course a large scale aircraft kit of such nice
‘bubble’ effect on the side glazing. Revel’s new-style colour quality is going to break the bank? No, far from it; this kit is
instructions are clear and concise with call-outs for the two outstanding value and if modern rotors are your thing you’ll
versions (surveillance or troop transport) and there’s options to probably pick up two and do both versions. Revell model kits are
open the rear clam-door and sliding side doors to show off all the available from all good toy and model retailers. For details visit
interior detail. Both versions have rear seating and if you can’t live www.revell.de/en

Revell 1:32 Heinkel He219 A-0 / A-2 Nightfighter

Our cover star from way back in issue 46 (how time flies!) was cockpit is busy with detail and comes with crystal clear optional
Revell’s hot release of the big-scale ‘UHU’, it’s back out again in a canopies (although the sliding section is an extremely
slightly different guise as the A-0 / A-2 version. It really is ‘slightly’ questionable shape, a very difficult part to design for moulding,
with a couple of small new sprues with details such as the nose granted!) and we’ve well detailed wheel wells but no engines are
antenna, supercharger intakes and minor touches which all look to included. Decals are top-notch offering two aircraft in similar RLM
be captured for these versions. The remainder of the kit appears 76 base colours with mottled overspray to test your airbrushing
unchanged and referring back to the Editor’s build the niggles of skills. With Revell’s great value for money this is an impressive
the nose profile and reversed fuel filler flaps remain but with a few display piece built from the box or some aftermarket upgrades
issues aside this is still an impressive model which assembles still keep to a reasonable budget for a model of this size and
46 well. Moulding looks fresh and sharp with great surface detail and stature. Revell model kits are available from all good toy and
good design features such as posable control surfaces and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en
substantial internal wing braces to ensure good alignment. The
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Revell 1:48 Tornado F.3 ADV

Another version of Revell’s well received Tornado which was brakes, thrust reversers and all control surfaces) though some find
announced a little while back is the F.3 ADV (Air Defence Variant) the moving wing-sweep a bit of a gimmick and questions have
originally conceived to intercept Soviet bombers over the North been raised about the angles and shape of the tail fin. Moulding is
Sea of the UK. Along with the RAF, the Italian Air Force and Royal very nice with fine and delicate surface detail in places, with close
Saudi Air Force also fielded the ADV. Not too far back in issue 69 to 300 parts Revell rate these kits at the top grade of their skill
(back issues are always available from our web-shop) we ran a full level and this may well be the case with the sectional design of
build feature on the Revell Tornado GR.4 which this kit is based the air frame looking like it will need close attention. We’re offered
on, now we have new sprues for the extended front of the two RAF marking options on the excellent decal sheet,
fuselage and belly section, wing sweep sections and all the other 111Squadron from 2002 and 23 Squadron 75th anniversary
associated parts, it looks as if Revell have researched and scheme from 1990 with the striking red and blue tail. As always,
included what’s needed. The popularity of this kit series over the Revell are hard to beat when it comes to value with their new
few years since it’s initial release is no doubt down to it’s excellent toolings leaving the choice to add some aftermarket details
value for money, this is a lot of kit for the cash with features you’d should you feel it necessary. Revell model kits are available from
expect only with more expensive productions (positionable speed all good toy and model retailers. For details visit www.revell.de/en

Grumman F6F Hellcat

Oleksandr Boiko
Number 44 in the respected ’Topdrawings’ series from Poland’s Kagero is a
Published by Kagero selection of beautifully presented line drawings and illustrations taking us through the
soft back format, 28 pages (plan development of the Hellcat marques. Offering the ultimate in detailed reference in
drawings) 1:72 and 1:48 (with some details in 1:24) every aspect right down to the rivets is
featured and some superb colour profile illustrations which really deserve to be
English / Polish text framed rater than left on the bookcase. F6F-3 through to F6F-5 versions are covered
ISBN 9788365437563 47
with sequential steps outlining the changes in production. A set of A3 size pull-out
www.kagero.pl plans allow 1:48 upper and lower views. Great quality reference from Kagero.
AIR 75 Dec/Jan 2017/18.qxp_AFV/26 Jan/Feb 06 08/11/2017 15:29 Page 48

Purveyors of some particularly fine WWI modelling accessories, light linen texture. If you’ve the skill (and eyesight!) to work on
Aviattic, have a bumper bundle of new releases starting with their Great War subjects in 1:144 there’s a set of two types (4 colour
excellent decal sets. ATT32137 is a lozenge coverage for the and 5 colour) ‘bolt’ and ‘joined bolt’ patterns including interior
Wingnut Wings Albatros DVa5 with pink rib tapes, the colour sections.
research carried out by these guys is extensive to say the least Moving onto accessory sets now and ATTRES 028 is a great 1:32
with a delicate woven fabric texture incorporated for ultimate pilot to seat in your late WWI German project with no less than five
detail. ATT32115 is another set of lozenge patterns for the optional heads in various attire, very nicely sculpted and cast
Wingnuts Fokker E.V / D.VIII with a factory fresh appearance (a (heads are also available as a separate set) ATTRES 030 is a neat
‘faded’ set is also available). Two full sets of shapes are included touch to a ground scene in the shape of a WWI era movie camera
with cable patches and sections for rib tape included. Another and tripod, nicely cast in resin. Finally a full kit ATTKIT004 depicting
difficult finish to achieve is the Fokker ‘streaked’ pattern on an RAF / RFC towing trailer which is produced in resin and
unbleached linen. Two sets are now available in 1:32 and 1:48 both photoetch. Quality is first rate and certainly gets you thinking about
48 including sections of pattern particular to fuselage, wings, tailplane dioramas with a recovered airframe balanced atop the trailer.
and control surfaces. Both are generic sizes to be cut to suit your Aviattic have a great website which allows you to shop direct
particular application with the 1:32 set including a full A4 sheet of www.aviattic.co.uk
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Scale Aircraft Conversions

Fresh to SACs huge range of white metal landing gear upgrades 1:48 for the recently released Eduard SE.5a is set 48333, 48334 is
will give your next project some steady footing and is easily for the Hobby Boss AMX A-1A/B, 48335 is designed for Kitty Hawk’s
tweaked allowing the perfect ‘sit’. Starting with 1:114 there’s set Su-35 Flanker E and 48336 is for the Hasegawa / Italeri Macchi
14425 for Eduard’s MiG-21 (2 sets are provided) and 14426 for C.205 Veltro. Finally for the recent 1:32 Revell release is 32124 for
Zvezda’s IL-76MD. In 1:72 is set 72144 for Zvezda’s Su-33, 72145 the Spitfire Mk.IXe. Take a look over at
is an upgraded version of their set for the B/RB-66B Destroyer from www.scaleaircraftconversions.com for details of the full range.
Italeri / Testors and 72146 for the RV Aircraft kit of the MiG-21. In

Air Modeller’s Guide to

Wingnut Wings Volume 2

Published by AFV Modeller Ltd.

Softback format, 113 pages
ISBN 9780993564611

Following on from our immensely popular Volume 1 (re-print still amongst others with a wide selection of Axis and Allied subjects
available from our web-shop) we once again share our love of the from the mighty Felixstowe to the simple little Eindecker. Each
Wingnut Wings range of WWI period 1:32 aircraft kits. These kits subject is shown as extensive step by step building, detailing and
have been a game-changer since their release and the company paint finishing including available aftermarket parts and decals
is part of New Zealand film maker Peter Jackson’s passion for explained. If you share our passion for these kits or modelling
aircraft of the Great War. Eight comprehensive builds feature in aircraft of the period this new volume is a must-have and we’ve
our usual visual format with high quality images sharing tips and had some very flattering initial feedback. Available now direct
techniques from some of the World’s most respected modellers from ourselves and specialists Worldwide (including Wingnut 49
in this field including our very own Editor David Parker, Adrian Wings), be warned though; the first edition of Volume 1 sold out
Davies, Michel Gruson, Zdenek Sebesta and Jeroen Veen rather quickly!
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648 355

648 351
648 352

648 354

648 354

648 356

48936 48937

FE861 FE862

FE864 632110


FE865 32914
Eduard have simultaneously released a great choice of Brassin is a propeller for the 1:32 F-4U-1 Corsair, the casting is incredibly
upgrades for their new Fw 190A-4, for many the first port of call is thin and free of distortion and comes complete with an assembly
the cockpit and this should look stunning with a beautifully cast jig. More is added to the catalogue for the Meng F-35 we featured
cockpit ‘tub’, instrument facias and seat. Pre-coloured photoetch recently, two sets in the handy ‘Zoom’ series are FE864 giving
and decals are also included, 648351 is the catalogue number. some worthwhile cockpit and airframe detail and FE865 is a pre-
648355 re-creates pretty much the whole nose of the aircraft with coloured seatbelt set to add a nice touch of finesse. A larger set
a superb BMW radial, MG bay and cowls to allow everything to be for the Meng kit is 49864 containing the fret from the Zoom set
hinged open; our up-and-coming full feature will show just how and another fret with canopy frame parts and exhaust petals. In
good this looks assembled. If you want the choice of either-or, the 1:48 for the excellent Gaspatch Hs123 we featured last issue is set
engine (648352) and fuselage guns (648354) are available as 49860 with pre-coloured photoetch for the seatbelts, instruments
separate sets, simply stunning detail. If all of that isn’t enough how and other cockpit details with the cowling straps also included.
about opening up the wing root gun bays with full internals and We’re yet to see Kitty Hawk’s 1:48 UH-1D ‘Huey’ which was
covers again beautifully cast in resin with photoetch edges to add released recently but these two Zoom sets look rather nice, FE861
to the kit parts(648356). More for the ‘190 is FE863, Eduard’s gives pre-coloured instrument panels and FE862 a full set of seat
famous pre-coloured seatbelts in photoetch, 48936 are highly belts. Finally in 1:32 is Zoom set 33176, pre-coloured seat belts for
detailed landing flaps and 48937 is a set of external photoetch Wingnuts D.VII and for the same kit 32914 including engine and
50 details concentrating mainly on the landing gear and canopy. MG details. There’s a lot more new from Eduard, get over to
Another Brassin set (632110) for a recent new release from Tamiya www.eduard.cz to check out all the new goodies and kits.
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Eduard 1:48 MiG-21 SMT ProfiPack

This is a straight-forward re-release from Eduard which will please super-detailed build straight from the box. Talking of super-
fans of the 'Humpback' version of the Fishbed with it's distinctive detailed, the decal sheet of stencils is mind-boggling; another
heavy spine profile to allow more fuel storage. This kit needs little feature which makes you think that the guys at Eduard really love
introduction surely to Soviet jet lovers who have lapped up all the the MiG-21! We think we're correct in saying that the SMT wasn't
versions released over the last few years (probably the reason for built in huge numbers, Russian pilots didn't favour the effects of the
this re-release) with this kit held in very high regard for accuracy enlarged spine, many eventually being refitted as other versions,
and detail. The dark grey sprues look as fresh as ever with superb hence the marking options of four Russian versions with some very
standards of detail and finesse throughout which is further tasty camo options and detailed accounts of each aircraft. With
enhanced by with the ProfiPack goodies consisting of self adhesive much of the kit shared with other versions there's plenty ordnance
masks, resin UB 16 and UB 32 rocket pods, pre-coloured and details headed for the spares box. Still a beauty of a kit.
photoetch for the cockpit and a small regular fret making for a

Revell 1:72 Bell AH-1G Cobra

Revell re-box again with the neat little MPM / Special Hobby Cobra. a coat of paint. Clear canopy parts are well moulded and provide
Boxed as the AH-1G we still have a lot of parts present on the the option of posing in an open position, some tiny lenses and
sprues for other versions (released by Special Hobby over the past other clear parts are also included on the sprue. Plenty of weapon
few years) and the moulding is excellent, obviously designed and options are offered including M-18 minigun pods, M-158 rockets,
moulded with the latest technology and not the short-run tooling XM-157 and M-159 rockets. Two U.S. markings are included, both
used by MPM many years ago. With the nature of helicopters in operating in South Vietnam 1970. Now available from Revell this kit
1:72 there’s some very fine parts and the finesse of detail should will be easier to get hold of and at a value price. Revell model kits
look really good from the box or easily enhanced by a sprinkling of are available from all good toy and model retailers. For details
photoetch from the aftermarket. Surface detail is as good as you visit www.revell.de/en 51
could expect to capture in this scale and should ‘tone down’ under
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Mission Models
RB Productions Just in before we go to print is a new batch of aircraft colours
from Mission. This is a very impressive acrylic range which is
Ireland-based Radu Brinzan produces some top-quality decals, already gaining an excellent reputation (including from
accessories and fine modelling tools with some excellent niche ourselves). For U.S. subjects are Low Vis, Light and Medium
subjects covered. Recently released are some colourful Romanian greys and WWII O.D. Luftwaffe popular shades RLM 66, RLM
markings for eight I.A.R.80s available in 1:72, 1:48 and 1:32. The 70, RLM 04 and RLM 71 are catered for and R.A.F regulars
decal quality is excellent with punchy colours and fine register, each Medium Sea Grey, Ocean Grey and Azure Blue now available.
marking option comes with full-colour diagrams and notes including Clear coats are also available in matt, satin or gloss. MM
information on weathering and colour call-outs for Lifecolor acrylics. paints spray equally as well straight from the bottle or thinned
Check out RB’s impressive range at for finer work. Check their website for more details and
www.radubstore.com where you’ll also find Zoukei-Mura products in stockists in your part of the world:www.missionmodelsus.com

Russian Aviation Colours MMP are renowned for their coverage of niche subjects, such is the case here with the third
volume in their series on early Soviet aviation, ‘Red Stars’ details colours and markings used
Marat Khairulin until the Soviet exit from WWI. With period images and illustrations this book is beautifully
Published by MMP Books presented and extensively researched detailing all operating aircraft with their unit emblems
and aircraft artworks with some fantastic modelling projects on offer with a definite change from
Hard back format, 167 pages the usual schemes for Nieuports, SPADs, Bristols and Sopwiths. A little more costly than the
ISBN 9788365281647 majority of MMPs huge catalogue of reference books but to enthusiasts of this period of
www.mmpbooks.biz Russian aviation a worthwhile investment.

Fans of the formidable Mi-24 range of helicopters are sure to find this new release
Mil Mi-24/35 Hind from MMP a very welcome addition to the bookcase, packed full of colour images,
Jakub Fojtík 1:72 plan drawings (which are detailed right down to the rivets) and some very nice
colour profiles. The detailed text covers everything from the original prototypes and
Published by MMP Books service versions (Mi-24A, Mi-24D, Mi-24V and Mi-24P) through to the Mi-35 versions.
Soft back format, 216 pages Also detailed are the upgrades carried out by the various countries using the aircraft
52 ISBN 9788365281531 and tables of export figures and re-exports. All variants have an excellent selection of
images with walk-around style and strip-down maintenance reference and full
www.mmpbooks.biz technical data, all invaluable modelling reference for builders of Russian choppers.
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TA R A N G U S ’ 1 : 4 8 K I T M O D E L L E D B Y A N D E R S I S A K S S O N

Tarangus continue to release kits of

Swedish subjects and recently added to the
line the Scottish Aviation Bulldog T.1 trainer,
which in the Swedish Air Force carried the
designation SK 61. Tarangus has released
two different boxings to reflect the different
users of the Bulldog and here I (naturally!)
choose to build the Swedish Sk 61.

As far as I know the Tarangus kit is the first aligns properly during construction. be painted by the modeller. One option is
injection moulded model of this aircraft in Surface detail is represented in the form of to get hold of some solid colour decal
1:48 scale. Airfix produced a Bulldog in recessed panel lines and is very nice, sheets and cut the shapes and sizes
1:72 scale and on the basis of built although I feel that the level is ever so needed. The decals offer three options and
examples that I have seen, it seems their slightly below their previous Tarangus I was immediately drawn to the machine
kit is pretty good. But back to the Tarangus Lansen in 1:72 scale. The windscreen and wearing the characteristic splinter
kit, and as with Tarangus’ other models canopy are moulded as a single piece, camouflage. As mentioned in the
(except for their Viggen) the Bulldog is a which means that the cockpit can only be instructions the designation of this
short-run injection moulding and some modelled closed unless you choose to particular machine is Fpl 61, as I
details can therefore be a little rough with gently saw the pieces apart. understand that this machine is not a
some extra flash and minor mismatches The decal sheet is relatively small, but trainer but was instead used by the
here and there on smaller parts. As usual appears to be very complete with several Swedish Army for reconnaissance for the
for a short-run kit the joining surfaces lack smaller information texts and symbols. artillery.
the usual guide pins which means you Something missing from the sheet are the
should be extra careful so that everything common dayglow fields, so these need to

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Swedish flat-pack

The construction begins with the ‘office’ The painting of the interior was done an old Eduard set I already had lying
and out of the box you end up with a fairly according to the instruction which suggests around. The belts are of British type from
detailed cockpit, but as the canopy is light grey for most surfaces. Here I made it the Second World War and certainly look
relatively large and provides good easy and used the Tamiya grey primer better in a Spitfire than in a Bulldog, but
opportunities to view the interior, I chose to which was applied directly from the spray the belts are still close enough to look
add a few details here and there. My can. However, I found that there were more convincing.
reference images showed that the seats areas of green than is shown in the
have some kind of cushion so these were instruction so I brush painted the entire The large instrument panel is a natural
made from Duro epoxy putty. Some levers center console with a matching green from focus of the cockpit and therefore
were added to the centre console along Vallejo. I do not know how accurate my deserves a little extra time in the form of
with a third and simpler seat located at the final colours for the cockpit are but I added detail with various buttons, gauges
right side and aft in the cockpit. The seat decided it would be good enough. In any and indicators. Here I used a mix of detail
itself was scratchbuilt with a piece styrene case, the red extinguisher provided a painting and decals to achieve a more
sheet which was cut and then bent to the welcome splash of colour in the cockpit. realistic appearance. I make no claim to be
proper shape. Some sort of seatbelts are needed for the totally accurate here but contented myself
cockpit to look complete. My first thought with raising the overall impression and
was to use thin strips of masking tape but realism of the panel.
decided instead to pinch a few belts from

Bulldog body
As soon as the cockpit was painted and finished, the whole sub-assembly
could be installed in one of the fuselage halves and construction could
continue with installing the forward bulkhead and engine. Here you have to
remember to add extra weight in the nose to prevent the
finished model from becoming a tail-sitter. The instruction
does not specify a minimum weight so I took the safe way
and put in so many lead weights I had room for. It would
later become painfully evident that the weight added still
was not enough to make the finished model sit on all
three wheels, but more about this dilemma later.
The small windows behind the canopy first
seemed a bit tricky to install but I would
find out that the parts fit surprisingly
well and took just a bit of careful filling
and sanding around the edges to make
them blend in with the surrounding
surfaces. Once in place I masked the
windows to protect from further handling. I
was careful to mask so that the windows would
get the two-part appearance that is typical of the
Swedish Bulldogs.
With the fuselage together I could continue by adding the
remaining exterior details. After warnings from a few fellow
modellers I moved the small air outlet located on the right side of the
fuselage slightly further aft and downwards to make better room for the
national insignia.

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Looking at photos of various Bulldogs I noticed that the elevators

often droop when the machine is parked so to give the model a
little extra life I tried to simulate this by cutting off both elevators.
Since the elevator’s shape is relatively complex with a number of
angles and corners, I chose to cut each elevator in smaller
sections just to glue them back together as soon as all parts had
been cut loose. Short lengths of piano wire were used as
reinforcements for the hinges between the elevators and
stabilisers. The rudder comes as a separate part and I chose to
attach it a few degrees offset to the one side. Again, the hinges
were strengthened using short lengths of piano wire.

Modifying the canopy

As I said earlier the windshield and canopy comes moulded as a

single piece which works fine, but with the cockpit being quite
visible I wanted to try to open the canopy by separating the clear
parts. With a miniature saw I managed to slowly cut my way
through the plastic and then gently separate the two sections.
The windscreen was carefully glued in place and was then
masked together with the rest of the cockpit area so that no
colour would leak into the open space during the painting

Swedish splinter

After an overall coat of Tamiya light subsequent colour. Thus, I started with
grey primer it was time to take on the 178 Mid Green to cover the entire top
real challenge – painting the splinter surface. Then a large job of masking
pattern. I had previously heard of the followed to cover all areas that would
relatively new range of colours by the remain the first colour. The instruction
name of Mr. Paint and since this brand contains a detailed drawing of the
had just released a series of colours camouflage but even though I tried to
for Swedish subjects I thought this follow this as well as possible I ended
project would be a great opportunity to up having to do some of my own
try them out. The splinter pattern is the adjustments of the pattern to get
relatively complex but thanks to the everything together. I noted that the
rather convenient size of this model I different views of the Bulldog had a
thought it would go relatively quick to number of minor mismatches between
apply all colours. In any case, that was the different fields in the transition
my plan to go forward. between the vertical and horizontal
As usual, I chose to go from the along each fuselage side but thanks to
lightest to the darkest colour, so that it some creative masking I managed to
would be easy to apply each get around that problem. 59
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Step by step, I continued with the masking and to apply the surfaces located at both wing roots. While the masking was a bit
different colours which in turn consisted of 177 Dark green and time-consuming the anti-slip surfaces were easy to paint using a
179 Tan. Between each colour the masking tape was left in place mixture of Tamiya XF-69 with a touch XF-15 Flesh to provide a
so that I finally had covered almost all surfaces and could finish up suitably matching grey-black hue.
the painting with applying the 176 Black. Finally it was time to for painting the day-glow fields, and here I
With all masking removed, I realised that the pattern was not quite used Vallejo’s Model Air 71082 Fluorescent Orange. To give the
right in between the different colours and so I had to go another day-glow better coverage I first painted the masked areas with a
round with more tape and adjust the different colour fields. I can thin layer of Tamiya XF-2 Flat White.
only say that there were quite a few rounds with the different I was now rather tired of the repeated masking and painting and I
colours needed but in the end I felt that the pattern worked was happy to finally be able to prepare the model for the decals
reasonably well. With the splinter pattern finally finished I could by applying an overall gloss varnish using Tamiya X-22 Clear.
mask the upper surfaces and paint the underside 175 Blue grey.
Overall, I think that the colours of Mr Paint work very well as they
produced a satin surface which felt very durable that quickly
became dry enough to mask and this was worth a lot when I had
to do repeated masking and painting to correct the camouflage.
At this stage it was a good time to mask and paint the anti-slip

Delightful decals
There is not much is to say about Simply top class all around! As soon as the decals were dry
Tarangus’ decals other than that they all I applied an overall coat of acrylic flat varnish seal the
worked excellent. Colours and sharpness both surface and give a realistic finish.
look great and they are thin and flexible. Almost no
setting solution was needed to get them to settle
down into the panel lines.
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Slightly dog-eared
To increase the realism and bring my Bulldog to life I gave it a little
wear and tear by applying some weathering. I started by applying
a dark wash using small amounts of Vallejo Model Wash 76 517
Dark Grey. As this product is water based it was easy to
manipulate the look to the desired effect, even after it has dried on
the surface. With a small pointed brush I let the wash flow in the
panel lines and various panel joins to provide greater depth as well
as simulate dirt.
A light post-shade was applied with a heavily diluted Tamiya XF-69
NATO Black applied around the panel lines around the engine to
further give the appearance of discoloured surfaces and
accumulations of dirt and oil. I also took the opportunity to add a
little heavier streaks of the same colour along the underside of the
fuselage to represent deposits of oil and exhaust fumes. The
effects were then further emphasised with a black artist pencil.
Finally, I used a few artist pencils to give the impression of scuffed
and worn away paint on the fuselage sides where the crew
members open the canopy and enters the cockpit.

Those final touches

Along with the painting and weathering process I spent time to On the underside of the wings is a series of (what I assume are)
assemble and paint the wheels. These were first given a base smaller vortex generators which are provided as separate
coat of Tamiya XF-86 Rubber Black, I then mixed a few drops pieces to glue in position as shown in the instruction. While
of XF-80 Navy Grey and sprayed a thin layer on the treads to these pieces are moulded quite thick I choose not to replace
give the tyres a more realistic look. Finally the rubber portions them for more in-scale items but instead used them as they
were masked and the wheel centers were painted with the come in the box.
same 177 Dark Green used in the splinter camouflage. I finished up the final construction by attaching assorted small
The nose wheel strut painted in the underside colour and items like the footsteps, clear plastic parts for the position light
attached using generous amounts of superglue to sit steadily. and the different antennas located at the rear of the fuselage
Also, to add a little interest the nose wheel was slightly turned and on both sides of the tailfin. However, in this instance I
to the left. While I was in the same area I cleaned up and chose to replace the slightly larger white antenna on the
painted the exhaust pipe in various brown and orange colours fuselage and go with a suitable piece that was cut out from a
to simulate an oxidised and rusted surface. Also, the ends were sheet of polystyrene.
hollowed out and simply painted black.

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Sure footing

With my Bulldog complete I set the model down on its small details around the exterior
wheels, only to discover that I had created a tail-sitter – made the build a little longer than
much to my dismay as I thought I had used a lot of extra expected.
weight in the nose. However, at the time writing I have just noticed
What to do? My easiest way out of the problem was to that Maestro Models has released a set of self-
make a simple base which I could attach the model to. To adhesive painting masks for the camouflage pattern,
secure the model to the base I drilled holes in each wheel a product that should make life a lot easier when
to accept a length of piano wire which was then inserted recreating that splinter scheme. In addition they also have
into the corresponding holes in the simple runway, thus released a full set of photo-etched parts featuring parts for
making the model sit on all wheels as intended. both the interior and exterior so for anyone wanting to raise
In conclusion I can only say that this project was a lot of fun the level of detail on their Bulldog there are now possibilities
to build and that it results in a fine model of an unusual available.
subject. Although the Bulldog is relatively convenient in 1:48
scale the complex painting process and the number of

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Wingnut Wings Vol 2



back by popular demand

For all trade enquiries please contact

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