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CONTENTS Issue 076 August – October 2017
G ETAWAYS
086 PA R A D I S E I N T H E PA L M S
The majestic beauty of Lord Howe Island.
096 R A I N FO R E ST ROYALT Y
Paronella Park, Queensland’s fairy-tale castle.
102 LET IT BEE
P H O T O G R A P H Y: B R O O K J A M E S
28
CONTENTS ISSUE 076 AUGUST–OCTOBER 2017
86
S H O RTCU TS
018 W I S H YO U WE R E H E R E 058 H A RV EST MO O N
Cape Dombey Obelisk, SA Broome’s Shinju Matsuri festival
020 T R AV E L B U Z Z 062 H IP H O O D
The lowdown on the latest in travel The lowdown on Sydney’s Chippendale
024 WINE & DINE 066 NAT IV E FLAVO UR S
Delicious news from the culinary world Camp tucker nights in the Top End
026 PI L L OW TA L K 072 ROCKS AND ROLL
Hot hotel openings across the country Walking the Rocks to Barangaroo
028 STYLE SEEKER 076 DO SOMETHING DIFFERENT S UBS CR IBE TO WIN:
Spring into bloom with all shades of pink Ocean-to-plate on the Far South Coast Subscribe to Australian Traveller for
030 O N T H E ME N U 078 CHEAP AND CHIC your chance to win a two-night
How to be a better diner Stylish stays for under $250 per night stay for four at Bells at Killcare,
032
P H O T O G R A P H Y: B R O O K J A M E S ( B E E S ) ; K A R A R O S E N L U N D
FA M I LY T R AV E L
( M A R O O C H Y D O R E ) ; I M O G E N E V E S O N ( TA S M A N I A ) ; N I K K I
valued at $3300. Turn to page 70.
When your tots become teens CULT U RE
034 H OT L I S T 144 INNER BEAUT Y
C ONGRATULATIONS TO O UR
Libraries designed by architects Osteria Oggi, Adelaide, SA SUBSC RIP TION P RIZE W I NNE R
036 T R AV E L T R E N D 147 O NE FINE DAY FROM ISSUE #75
Switching off from work on holiday Getting to know the Margaret River Jamie Hartcher of Branxton, New South Wales,
has won a luxury getaway to Halcyon House,
038 PE O PL E ’S C H OI C E town of Cowaramup, WA valued at $3500.
Tell us what you love for your chance 148 W H AT IT ’S R EA LLY LIKE…
to win a Wolgan Valley escape to be a shoemaker
042 REWIND 150 P R IZES
TO (LORD HOW E I S L AN D)
W EEKEND S
A N D F U N
MAROOCHYDORE
Rick Stein gives us his travel tips and why GETS ITS TIME
IN THE SUN
ON THE
050 REVIEWS he fell in love with Australia COVER THE TOTA LLY ACHIEVA BLE
Nour, Sydney, NSW Food festivals and cultural happenings U NDER YOU R NOSE!
Headland, Qld
Tribe, Perth, WA 154 LET ’S GO … Photographer: +
Taverna, Kingscliff, NSW for a walk, hike or wander!
THE BEST BUSH TUCKER IN THE NT | SYDNEY’S NEXT BIG
Kara Rosenlund N E I G H B O U R H O O D | L I V I N G T H E S W E E T L I F E I N TA S M A N I A
BIGGER.
Travelling with the family, or looking
to escape with all of your friends?
Meriton Suites is the perfect way
to stay together.
With family-friendly and affordable
accommodation in mind, our large 2 and
3 bedroom suites feature well-appointed
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to ensure all have the room to relax and
enjoy time-out from reality.
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT:
Discover coffee and
surf in Maroochydore
(p112); Take a
white-knuckle
wilderness tour around
Tasman Island (p128);
Explore the dramatic
beauty of Lord Howe IT’S HARD TO DEFINE what constitutes a bucket list-worthy
Island on p86; Head to destination or experience. The whole concept depends on a traveller’s
Broome for its festival individual interests, as well as how they travel and what they want to see
of the pearl, Shinju
Matsuri, on p58. and do. All too often these lists are crammed full of things that they will
never get around to realising. And what’s the point of that? So, putting
this issue together, with its bucket list theme, presented an interesting
proposition. Instead of making assumptions about destinations needing
to be far-flung or restrictively expensive, we approached it from a
( L O R D H O W E I S L A N D ) ; T O U R I S M TA S M A N I A & P E N N I C O T T W I L D E R N E S S
different point of view. The result is a collection of must-see-and-do
P H O T O G R A P H Y: K A R A R O S E N L U N D ( M A R O O C H Y D O R E ) ; L A R A P I C O N E
destinations and experiences that are relatively easy to access,
surprisingly affordable and, in many cases, right under your nose. From
the Sunshine Coast’s retro holiday hotspot that’s rich for rediscovery
(Everybody loves the sunshine, page 112) to Victoria’s ultimate short break
destination that you have probably never got around to taking a short
break in but absolutely should (Replenish, eat and repeat, page 122) to a
breathtaking walk along Tasmania’s untamed coast that offers up views
that would rival anything else seen in the world (Coastal climes, page 128)
to a unique island idyll that is just under two hours’ flight time from
Sydney (Paradise in the palms, page 86). We have hunted down authentic
J O U R N E Y S ( TA S M A N I S L A N D C R U I S E )
Australian experiences in the outback, journeyed to Broome to explore
the heritage of its long-running festival of the pearl (Harvest moon, page 58)
and checked out some of the chicest hotels around the country for under
$250 per night (Cheap & chic, page 78). All in all, a bucket list that you
can – and we hope will – work your way through in the coming months.
And this issue is also your chance to tell us where you’ve been in the
last 12 months as part of our annual People’s Choice Awards (page 38).
We love to hear about your travel experiences, where you’ve been, what
you’ve seen and where you are dreaming of next. And just by doing so
you’ll be in the running to stay at the amazing Emirates One&Only
Wolgan Valley, another bucket list experience well within your reach.
Enjoy!
You, the reader, are the most important person in our business. As such, we will never trade your trust for advertising dollars. So you know exactly what you’re
reading , be aware that stories labelled ‘In Partnership With’ mean a valued sponsor has enabled this content to be brought to life. These stories are created to the
same journalistic standards as our usual features. An ‘Australian Traveller Promotion’ is content created by our valued clients that has been edited by our team.
12 AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM
EDITORIAL
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ART
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to the Readers’ Section, may be used by AT, but no responsibility is accepted for lost
manuscripts, artwork or images. Australian Traveller is published bimonthly by Australian
Traveller Media (ACN 113 975 438), PO Box 159, Broadway, NSW 2007. Printed by Offset
Alpine Printing, 42 Boorea Street, Lidcombe, NSW 2141. Price in Australia: $9.95 inc GST
(recommended & maximum price only).
Oops! In issue 75 on p57, the copy for cafe Bury Me Standing should read thus: Entrepreneurial
baker Alesha Peckels serves up delicious traditional breads, including varieties from Minnesota
and a secret bagel recipe from her husband Cohen. You’ll find her bakery-cum-cafe down an
unassuming side street (104 Bathurst Street). We suggest grabbing a seat in the sun with a
coffee and a lemon cake with lemon syrup, Alesha’s grandmother’s recipe.
And in issue 75 on p52, it’s incorrectly stated that the folks at The Farm are the brains behind
Flour Water Salt, whereas it’s solely the efforts and business of Kirsty and Joost Hilkemeijer.
Australian Traveller is printed by Offset Alpine Printing under ISO14001 Environmental Certification.
Paper fibre is from certified forests and audited sources.
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• Join local chef Tony Nolan, of Latitude 36, for lunch in his farm kitchen for a home-cooked feast, local island produce cook-
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THIS QUIRKY landmark is a local legend heritage in the small town, as well as a tourist
in Robe, on the Limestone Coast, but is in drawcard. But over its 162-year life, the
danger of falling into the ocean at any given headland it was built on has been gradually
moment. Photographer Michael Wee captured washed away by surf and wind, and now the
it on a bright day, its red and white striped livery obelisk is at real risk of falling into the waves
contrasting vibrantly against a coastal palette. below at any moment: next week, next year
The Cape Dombey Obelisk was built as a or in 30 years’ time. Due to its method
warning beacon for seafarers in 1855, after of construction – small stones that were
a significant spike in the number of ships that lime mortared together – it’s not even feasible
ran into trouble on the cliffs: it was visible from to relocate the obelisk for posterity.
16 kilometres away and guided fishermen and So, see it now before it is too late: the
their vessels into Robe’s port safely. Since then, ill-fated star attraction on a bracing coastal
it has become a lasting symbol of community walk, in an idyllic stretch of South Australia.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: M I C H A E L W E E
SHORTCUTS | Wish you were here
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 19
SHORTCUTS | Travel buzz
7
WILD AND LUXE
If glamping in the wilds is your thing, then 10
pack your bags for Wildfest’s three-day festival
package, held on a private property in Joadja, 9
Southern Highlands, between 27–29 October. 8
This relaxing weekend in the bush includes a
luxury tent (with 900-thread count sheets),
walks, wildlife-spotting and the chance to
indulge in fine cuisine, spirits distilled on-site
and local cool climate wines. wildfest.com.au
PACK A BAG
INSTA-RETRO TIM E TO WANDE R
P A C K A B A G P H O T O G R A P H Y: G U Y B A I L E Y. S T Y L I N G : A N I TA
A R C H I T E C T S ( I S A B E L L E T O L A N D A N D A M E L I A H O L L I D AY )
J O KO V I C H . P H O T O G R A P H Y: P E T R I N A T I N S L AY ( R E B E C C A
FIRST THERE WERE POLAROID-STYLE INSTANT
Planning on exploring some wide open spaces on foot? There’s no
YA Z B E K ) ; B R E T T B O A R D M A N ( T H E P O O L : A R C H I T E C T U R E ,
C AMERAS, THEN THERE WERE SMARTPHONES.
need to sacrifice on style when you pack these statement pieces...
C U LT U R E A N D I D E N T I T Y, E X H I B I T I O N B Y A I L E E N S A G E
NOW THERE’S THE INSTAX
SQUARE SQ10 FROM FUJIFILM.
SHOOT WITH THE BENEFITS OF 1. PE Nation ‘Man Down’ JACKET, $179. pe-nation.com 2. Adorn Bulgarian
DIGITAL, BEFORE PRINTING Rosewater HYDRATING MIST, $50. adorncosmetics.com.au 3. Aldi WATER BOTTLE,
YOUR SHOTS ON $7.99. aldi.com.au 4. Kathmandu ‘Kenn Gypsum II’ BOOTS, $215.95. kathmandu.
INSTAGRAM-SHAPED INSTANT
com.au 5. Banjo The Carob Bear SNACK, $1.15. the-carob-kitchen-australia.
FILM. PERFECT FOR THOSE OF
US TORN BETWEEN OUR
myshopify.com 6. Apple WATCH, $579. apple.com 7. Pana Chocolate NUT BAR,
LUDDITE INSTINCTS AND $7.90. panachocolate.com 8. Uniqlo Heattech SOCKS, $14.90 for two pairs. uniqlo.
OUR IPHONE ADDICTIONS. com 9. Uniqlo denim jogger PANTS, $49.90. uniqlo.com 10. Uniqlo AIRism
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W I T H M I C H E L L E TA B E T.
T R AV E L B U Z Z
C L E V E R A U S S I E S
Q&A
R E B E CC A YA Z B E K
The co-founder of Sydney restaurant, Nomad, which she runs with her husband WALK IN STYLE
Al, tells us how her design background is channelled into its every detail. WALK INTO LUXURY HA S L AUN CH E D
ITS FIRST ITINERARY ON T H E
B IB B ULMUN TRACK, IN T H E A L B A N Y /
What was your inspiration behind been my absolute passion, turning this into a DENMA RK REGION OF WA . T H E
the interior look of Nomad? career has been a huge learning curve. BIBBULMUN WALK – ALBANY & D E N M A R K
We were looking for a space for Nomad for Does your design influence filter ICONS COVERS 43 KILOM E T R E S OV E R
two years until we finally secured Foster down to the level of the FOUR DAYS, TA KING IN CL I FF- TO PS,
COASTLINE, B AYS AND B USH L A N D. A N D
Street – a Surry Hills warehouse dating back glassware, cutlery and crockery? AT NIGHT, WA LKERS A RE H O ST E D I N
to the 1800s. Stripping back the interiors, Yes, we had a few delays with council GORGEOUS ACCOMMODAT I O N A L O N G
which was white plasterboard walls and approvals and the like with getting Nomad THE WAY INCLUDING TH E BO UT I Q UE
ceiling, to reveal the history and bones of the open so I did have the luxury of time when it B EACH HOUSE AT B AYSID E . G O UR M E T
FOOD A ND W INE EXPER I E N CE S A R E
space was an absolute revelation. I wanted came to the small details that really have an
PAR FOR THE COURSE O N T H I S L UXURY
the space to feel warm and for the materials impact on our diners. The crockery was all WALK. WAL K IN TOL UX URY. CO M. AU
to be tactile to reflect the beauty of the designed and handmade by local potter
history of the space. I wanted Nomad to be Malcolm Greenwood. The colour palette
quintessentially Australian, showcasing and organic shapes of all of our plateware was
Australian artisan design and workmanship a reflection of what I was after for the look A BIGGER SPLASH
without being ‘themed’. and feel of our restaurant. The Pool: Architecture, Culture
What was it like working so closely What’s your favourite NOMAD dish? and Identity will see an 11-metre-long
with your husband on the project? Our house-made haloumi. The pool installed in The Ian Potter Centre:
We have very different skill sets. He is a accompaniments change with the season but
NGV Australia, as a celebration of one
builder by trade and with my background in the actual cheese, which is made by our chefs
design we had a clear delineation of what he daily, I still can’t get enough of.
of our greatest cultural symbols. The
was charged with and what I was. Still today What do you love about the exhibition made its debut at the 2016
we have our different strengths and smaller producers you use? Venice Architecture Biennale, where it
weaknesses and luckily they are Smaller producers have a story behind what attracted 100,000 visitors. Dip your
complementary – most of the time! they do and a passion for what they create. toes in from 18 August. ngv.vic.gov.au
Was taking your passion for Whether it be a milk producer from the
interior design into the realm of Hawkesbury area north of Sydney or a wine
food and wine a natural producer from Beechworth Victoria, there
progression for you? are so many people producing incredible
My husband was a restaurateur when we met. products that deserve to be celebrated.
None of my friends were surprised when we Have you got any plans for Nomad
started dating and it did feel like a natural going forward?
progression when we started the process of Always planning! We have changed our menu
coming up with a concept and executing the and wine list for the winter and there is no
build of Nomad. better place to be on a cold blustering night
It was driving to than our dining room with wood-roasted
the opening with pork and a cheeky glass of red from Canberra.
staff and other ventures on the horizon?
customers that We are looking at opportunities but it has
was the daunting to be the right move. We waited two years
part for me, for our warehouse in Surry Hills. We are
although food and willing to wait for the next right move.
wine have always nomadwine.com.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 21
SHORTCUTS | Travel buzz
GALLERY NEWS:
A L L T H I N G S G R E AT
AND SMALL
Indigenous art Perth’s Six Seasons Gallery, part of the
Art Gallery of Western Australia and named after the
Noongar six seasons, is now open: an Indigenous-focused
SUMMER LONGING space dedicated to the display and interpretation of
THE WO R K O F S Y D N EY- B AS ED P HOTO GRAP HER AKILA B ERJAOUI W ILL Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander art. Its opening
HAVE YO U L O N GI N G F O R S U MMERS PAS T ( AND TO C O ME). HER FIRST exhibition, Outside: Matters of the heart in Indigenous art,
BOO K , T H E L AS T D AYS OF S U MME R, IS P U BLIS HED BY P RESTEL A ND
examines the beauty and significance of the land through the
C A P T U R E S S U N - D R E NC HED S C ENES AT HO ME AND ABROA D – C A PRI,
SOU T H O F F R A N C E , B RAZ IL – IN GO RGEO U S GRAIN AND RETRO HUES. eyes of Aboriginal artists. artgallery.wa.gov.au
BE RJAO U I S H O OT S P ERS O NAL WO RK O N F ILM, REC ALLING THE GLAM
AND LANGUOROUS PHOTOGRAPHY OF SLIM AARONS MI XED W ITH A Grand plans Sydney is set to have its arts game
D OS E O F LAT E ’ 7 0 S A ND EARLY ’ 80S AU S TRALIAN BEAC H CULTURE; A significantly raised when the Art Gallery of NSW’s
TI M E T H AT – W I T H I T S C O LO U RS , LANDS C AP ES AND P EOPLE, SHE SAYS
extension is completed – slated to be in time for the gallery’s
– WA S U N A P O L O GE T I C ALLY REAL. A KILA B E RJ AOU I. ME
150 year anniversary celebrations in 2021. A cash injection
of $224 million from the NSW government has been
confirmed for the project, Sydney Modern, and will see
the gallery double in size. artgallery.nsw.gov.au
FIVE THINGS TO SEE…
AT S T A L B A N S W R I T E R S ’ F E S T I VA L Small packages Canberra’s newest gallery is also its
One weekend in smallest. The gallery of small things (GOST) opens on 27
September will see the September to showcase the works of emerging artists and
S I X S E A S O N S G A L L E RY A R T W O R K : S H A N E P I C K E T T, S I X S E A S O N S : A S U I T E O F P R I N T S 2 0 0 5 – 2 0 0 6 ( D E TA I L ) ,
secluded village of St makers including textiles, ceramics, paintings, photography
Albans – nestled on the and jewellery. facebook .com/galleryofsmallthings
upper reaches of the
Hawkesbury – become a
dynamic cultural hub.
A small festival now in its
third year, its program is
eclectic. Here’s our pick of
the bunch. stalbanswriters
festival.com.au
1. SIMMONE LOGUE: DINNER WITH THE WRITERS Catering guru
Simmone Logue will cook up a storm, while a selection of writers on the
S TAT E A R T C O L L E C T I O N , A R T G A L L E RY O F W E S T E R N A U S T R A L I A
festival bill discuss their favourite food writing.
2. THE 1836 DINNER At the heart of historic St Albans is its convict-built
pub, the Settlers Arms Inn, which was first established in 1836. Considering
what might have been eaten at the inn during that time, Jacqui Newling,
Sydney Living Museums’ gastronomer, has created an authentic menu for
guests to tuck into, and will give historical insight before and during the dinner.
3. FESTIVAL FILM NIGHT: MAD MAX: FURY ROAD Director George Miller
will introduce a screening of his film Mad Max: Fury Road and take part in a
Q&A session. Simmone Logue is on picnic dinner duties.
4. GEORGE GITTOES: BLOOD MYSTIC In support of his autobiography,
Blood Mystic, artist George Gittoes will tell tales of his colourful life. From his
childhood in Sydney and experience working with Andy Warhol in New York,
and from creating Sydney’s Yellow House with artist Martin Sharp to his
latter-day work as an eye witness in the world’s conflict zones, he’ll share all
in conversation with Catherine du Peloux Menagé.
5. MADELINE GLEESON: BEHIND THE WIRE ON MANUS AND NAURU
Lawyer and author Madeline Gleeson speaks to Michael Brissenden about
her book, Behind the wire on Manus and Nauru, and research, which examine
what has been happening on Manus Island and Nauru since offshore
processing began, and what life in these centres is like for asylum seekers.
22 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
N TS
Y 4 R 3Tents)* free
TA FOe Eco r stays
S AYDelux unde
P our 2 or
(in ild 1
h
1c
M O N A’ S M E G A H OT E L
Grand plans are afoot in the Mona camp, with founder
David Walsh unveiling his intentions for the Hobart
museum’s next phase. Early designs have been released
for a $300 million, 172-room, five-star hotel to be built ecoretreat
next to the museum. The hotel – which looks set to be
an outlandish new Tasmanian landmark overhanging
karijini
the River Derwent – will include a spa treatment Karijini National Park, Western Australia
centre, public library, outside stage, restaurant and bar,
auditorium and retail spaces. mona.net.au E: reservations@karijiniecoretreat.com.au
T: (08) 9425 5591
www.karijiniecoretreat.com.au
*Subject to availability. Conditions apply. Valid until 31st Oct 2017.
FUN IN THE SUN
Husband and wife duo Charlie Ranken and
Stephanie Harris are bringing the unique
flavours – and exuberant colour – of the
Caribbean and American Gulf Coast to
Melbourne with the opening of Saint Lucia.
WHY CARIBBEAN FOOD? On a trip through
the Caribbean and the southern US we were
blown away by this exciting, flavoursome cuisine!
We were surprised there wasn’t a bigger
representation of it back in Melbourne and we
thought, we’ve got to share this with people!
TELL US MORE ABOUT YOUR FIRST
ENCOUNTERS WITH THE FLAVOURS OF
THE CARIBBEAN. We spent the trip tasting and
trying as many dishes and flavours as possible,
speaking to locals and chefs, absorbing as much
as we could about this amazing cuisine. From
there we set about developing a concept that
incorporated a modern interpretation of the
dishes and flavours we’d fallen in love with.
HOW ARE YOU MAKING THE
CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CUISINE
P H O T O G R A P H Y: G U Y B A I L E Y ( C O C K TA I L ) , A N I TA J O KO V I C H ( C O F F E E C O N E ) N I K K I T O ( S TA N T O N & C O . )
UNIQUE AT SAINT LUCIA? We try to
incorporate a playful and fun element to the
dishes, given our inspiration comes from a
holiday through the region! One of our favourites
is the Kokomo Kone; we were thinking of foods
that evoke the idea of being on a holiday and an
ice-cream cone came to mind. We thought, let’s
KITSCH IN THE KITCHEN do something unexpected with this; how about a
Fans of Italian food, and pizza in particular, should make sure Agostinis is top of the list for
savoury version? The final product is a handmade
places to dine in Canberra. The newly opened eatery is part of East Hotel, already home to the
‘sunset’ waffle cone filled with jerk barbecue
wonderful Joe’s Bar, and is an ode to the Italian heritage of brother and sister owners Dan and glazed fried chicken, slaw, charred corn, lime
Dion Bisa. “My mother is an incredible Italian cook and she was taught by her parents, so we have mayo and candied scotch bonnet pieces.
been fortunate to be surrounded by really authentic Italian food our whole lives,” says Dion. WHAT QUINTESSENTIAL CARIBBEAN DISH
“What we envisioned was a beautiful, inviting space, with all the [designer] Kelly Ross magic, DOES EVERYONE NEED TO EAT AT LEAST
that would be gorgeous but accessible to all.” Using the family’s heritage as inspiration, Ross has ONCE? Jerk chicken! It’s so flavoursome, a great
created a kooky, ’80s-inspired décor, with a stonework feature wall with gold highlights, terracotta balance of heat, sweet, spice and smoke. For us it
wasn’t just the flavour but the whole experience.
tiles, leopard print booths, and hand-dyed shibori-style ropes dangling from the ceiling replicating
There were aspects that were so familiar to us:
home-made pasta hung out to dry. Young Romano chef Francesco Balestrieri delivers a simple the chicken is cooked on an outdoor barbecue;
menu full of flavour. Don’t miss the frico, a typical dish from the Friuli region, with paper thin it’s a casual and social vibe; everyone’s enjoying
layers of Montasio cheese and potato melted into a delicious chewy slice. agostinis.com.au the warm evening air; you’ve just stepped off the
beach with sand in your thongs. The dish itself is
quite unassuming then you take a bite and pow!
Smallfry
THE RECIPE
Fish ‘n’ chips come with a Japanese
COMPLEXION twist – and a side order of funky
design thanks to Matiya Marovic´ of
30ml Mr Black SANS-ARC STUDIO’S clever fit-out – at
30ml Oscar 697 Vermouth Rosso Smallfry, restaurateurs Jack Lim and
20ml Calle 23 Blanco Tequila Nick Wang’s pocket rocket restaurant
10ml Campari on Adelaide’s Waymouth Street. The
menu includes traditional battered
Stir, strain into a coupette, garnish fish, as well as panko crumbed
with an orange twist. oysters, a karaage chicken burger,
sashimi and Japanese rice as a side.
facebook.com/smallfryseafood
Stanton & Co.
We all love an espresso martini, but there is another way to sneak a caffeine hit into your evening With New York’s Meatpacking District
soirée while also becoming something of a trailblazer for fine coffee liqueurs. Mr Black is crafted at as inspiration, PARLOUR GROUP are set
a small distillery on the NSW Central Coast, using cold-pressed, single-origin beans from Ethiopia, to open Stanton & Co., a 300-seat bar
Brazil and Papua New Guinea. Drop into the cosy bar at Annata in Sydney’s Crows Nest, and and restaurant that will join the roster
bartender Christian Blair will arrange an introduction. “This variation on a negroni uses Mr Black at THE CANNERY in the Sydney suburb
Cold Drip Coffee Liqueur as the driving flavour,” he says. “Cold drip is said to highlight more floral of Rosebery from October. Chef
flavours from the coffee it’s made with, so in this instance sweet vermouth is added to intensify the Regan Porteous (pictured top, far right)
dark fruit character, Campari to enhance the bitterness, and tequila to bring up the sweetness.” will oversee a mod-Australian menu
with Japanese influences.
Annam Restaurant Bar
PHO NOM chef Jerry Mai brings her
TREND:
COFFEE IN A CONE unique take on the food of Vietnam
Australians pride themselves on being early to the heart of the city with the
adopters when it comes to all things coffee opening of Annam (a name for
related, which could be why they’re going Vietnam used prior to 1945) on Little
nuts for the latest improbable caffeine craze: Bourke Street in Melbourne. The
coffee in a cone. The act of drinking your 100-seat eatery features an open
favourite hot liquid from a vessel designed kitchen with a charcoal grill to infiltrate
to hold cold, semi-solid ice-cream is made
the menu, which draws on her
possible by the waffle cone being lined with
layers of dark chocolate that slowly melts Vietnamese and Cambodian heritage.
into the coffee, infusing it with a rich It’s expected to open by late August.
chocolatey flavour. Kind of like milk and Lolo and Lola
cookies with a kick – just make sure you Filipino food has been getting a bit of
grab a napkin too. attention of late as a cuisine worth
watching, so the opening of Lolo and
Lola in Watson, Canberra, is of note.
Owners Kim Cudia, Jay Prieto and
HOT TICKET Cristina Uy have graduated from selling
MARGARET RIVER’S ANNUAL GOURMET ESC APE their ensaymadas – traditional sweet
RETURNS TO WESTERN AUSTRALIA’S CULINARY buns topped with butter cream and
GROUND ZERO FROM 16-19 NOVEMBER WITH A
cheddar cheese – from a market stall
PROGRAM OF FOOD AND WINE EVENTS AND
HEADLINING CHEFS AND FOODIES. TICKETS ARE
to a shipping container and now to a
ON SALE NOW; DON’T RISK BEING DISAPPOINTED. fully fledged restaurant, with a rotating
GOURMETESC APE.COM.AU menu of share plates. loloandlola.com.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 25
SHORTCUTS | Pillow talk
pillow talk
typical short-break pursuits and be immersed in the
storied history of the island state. The property has divers and snorkellers; you
fashioned itself as the country’s first ‘storytelling get to see three different
hotel’, where the generous, colour-infused rooms, outer reef sites and spend a
considered culinary offering and funky public minimum of five hours out
Spend the NIGHT in the spaces share equal billing with the resident Master on the Reef! It leaves from
right next door to the hotel.
latest, greatest and most Storyteller and his staff of full-time storytellers,
silverseries.com.au
who weave an evocative picture of the characters
FABULOUS NEW STAYS and events that shaped the city. macq01.com.au FAMILY FUN Hartley’s Creek
Crocodile Adventures [40
in the country. kilometres north of Cairns]
is educational and fun for
the whole family, with wildlife
I N T H E B OX S E AT presentations, lots of local
The Chen, Art Series Hotel Group’s eighth offering, will wildlife including cassowaries
form part of Whitehorse Towers in the up-and-coming and dingos, and a boat cruise
Melbourne neighbourhood of Box Hill. Featuring the to see the crocs.
crocodileadventures.com
works of Chinese Australian artist Zhong Chen, whose
P H O T O G R A P H Y: A D A M G I B S O N ( M A C Q 0 1) ; R E N P I D G E O N ( Z H O N G C H E N )
A DVENTURE SE E K E R S Try
vibrant art perfectly reflects the ethnic diversity of the
a bungy jump or the Minjin
area, the hotel will boast 100 rooms and a rooftop pool. Jungle Swing at AJ Hackett
Due to open in November. artserieshotels.com.au Cairns; everyone should [have
a go] at least once, regardless
of age! Located in a beautiful
RIGHT TO THE POINT rainforest setting, if you don’t
A row of graceful Victorian townhouses dating want to jump there’s a great
from 1880 has been transformed into the latest view from the tower.
boutique offering from Spicers Retreats. Spicers ajhackett.com/cairns
Potts Point’s 20 rooms are the perfect contrast MEA LS AT TH E M A R I N A
to the intricate details of the building, with a Waterfront dining overlooking
modern, pared-back aesthetic. spicersretreats.com the Marina offers a range of
restaurants to suit all cuisines
and budgets.
A DEFINITE MUST- D O The
Kuranda Scenic Railway is one
of the most stunning rail trips
in Australia. The best option is
to go up by Skyrail cableway
over the top of the rainforest
and then down by train
alongside the Barron Falls.
ksr.com.au
26 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
Fraser Island,
KBRV1253
like no other place on the planet.
1 6
4
8
7
First blus
With spring ready to burst into FULL BLOOM, 10 11
now is the perfect time to fill YOUR LIFE with
PRETTY PIECES realised in a delicate palette
of ROSE, GOLD AND BLUSH.
1. The perfect lace DRESS for a picnic in the countryside, $169. hm.com
2. Fill
the fragrant air with song with Vifa’s cute little ‘Helsinki’ SPEAKER,
$575. anthropologie.com 3. See the world through rose coloured ‘Tara’
GLASSES, $160. draperjames.com 4. Have the new season at your fingertips in
12
this ‘Momentum’ RING $130. studio-elke.com 5. Match your wardrobe to your
13
WINE with Miraval Côtes de Provence Rosé, $31.99. danmurphys.com.au 6. You
be sitting pretty in the ‘Pittsburgh’ ARMCHAIR, $812. abchome.com 7. Feel love
from the inside out thanks to Wendy Rowe’s EAT BEAUTIFUL, $59.95. dymocks.
com.au 8. Cruise through life in style on a ‘Pomona’Vintage BICYCLE, $479. 14
progearbikes.com.au 9. Shrimp’s ‘Posey’ CLUTCH, $445, adds soft touchy-feely
texture to any look. farfetch.com 10. Pack a lipstick not a bread stick into the
statement BAG of the season, $69.95. zara.com 11. Smell as sweet as the
flowers in bloom with Panier Sens Rose Geraniam SCENT. $45. saison.com.au
12. The ‘Joy’ WATCH, $149, will ensure you won’t miss a moment of spring.
kapten-son.com 13. Pay more than lip service to the new season in Smith’s 15
Rosebud Minted Rose LIP BALM, $14.95. saison.com.au 14. Freshly picked
blooms will look gorgeous in the ‘Kara’ TUMBLER, $5. kmart.com.au 15. Sweet
dreams are made of this delicate CUSHION $14.95. hm.com
28 AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM
Showcasing the oldest continuous culture on earth
through the newest technology on a 300 million
year-old natural canvas
Step into a spectacular outdoor gallery surrounded by lights
and sounds, where Indigenous artworks are brought to life
under the night sky of Central Australia
PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY
parrtjimaaustralia.cOm.au
#PARRTJIMAAUSTRALIA
B174780
HOW TO BE
30 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
SHORTCUTS | On the menu
fakers. Customers who voice complaints restaurants to blacklist Dimmi users who other restaurants around town.
online when the issue could have been easily fail to honour their reservation. In the last “The best customers understand how
resolved with staff in the restaurant. 12 months, Dimmi partner restaurants hard we work to make sure they’re happy
I also heard a lot of complaints about have blacklisted more than 38,000 diners, and they let us do that for them. At the
something that wasn’t an issue back in the up from around 3000 the previous year. end of the day, what we want more than
’90s: smartphones. Today’s wait staff have The company’s founder and CEO, Stevan anything is to make customers happy
to deal with loud talkers, loud ring tones and Premutico, says the average diner doesn’t and see them come back. It’s our job –
loud videos, the latter of which – according realise the consequences. “The majority it’s what we do.”
SHORTCUTS | Family travel
FLIGHT
CONTROL
32 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
SHORTCUTS | Hot list
Geelong Library
and Heritage Centre
(GLHC), by ARM
Architecture
NICKNAMED ‘THE DOME’, THE
GLHC IS IN FACT A SPHERE; CITY O F PERTH
PARTIALLY BURIED WITH ITS L IB RARY B Y K E RRY
SURFACE CUT AWAY TO FIT HIL L ARCHITECTS
IN BETWEEN THE GEELONG Design-wise, the redevelopment of Perth’s
GALLERY AND THE GEELONG
PEACE MEMORIAL. DESIGNED
historic centre – the Cathedral and
BY ARM ARCHITECTURE, THE Treasury Precinct – was led by Kerry
CUBISTIC AND COLOURFUL Hill Architects. The jewel in its crown
LIBRARY WAS THE ALIA is the gleaming new public library that
MEMBERS’ CHOICE WINNER opened in March last year and scooped
AT THE 2017 AUSTRALIAN
the top prize at the 2017 ALIA Library
LIBRARY DESIGN AWARDS.
Design Awards. Seven storeys high and
based around a pure circular form, with a
striated effect that emulates the pages of a
book , the contemporary design includes a
L I B R A R I E S BY ceiling artwork by a local artist depicting
WA native flora, fauna and history.
A RC H I T E C T S
The wave of STATE-OF-THE-ART public libraries – less academic
bolthole, more SOCIAL HUB – being designed by architecture
firms shows no signs of stopping. ELEGANT, IMPRESSIVE, in
P H O T O G R A P H Y: J O H N G O L L I N G S ( G E E L O N G L I B R A RY A N D W O O L L A H R A L I B R A RY ) ; F R A N C E S
A N D R I J I C H , C O U R T E S Y O F T H E C I T Y O F P E R T H ( C I T Y O F P E R T H L I B R A RY ) ; J O H N M I L L S ( T H E
tune with their ENVIRONMENTS, here are five of our favourites.
Craigieburn Library by
Francis-Jones Morehen Thorp
H E L E N S VA L E B R A N C H L I B R A RY ) ; T R E V O R M E I N ( C R A I G I E B U R N L I B R A RY )
IN 2014, CRAIGIEBURN LIBRARY, IN OUTER
NORTH MELBOURNE, WON THE INAUGURAL
INTERNATIONAL PUBLIC LIBRARY OF THE
YEAR AWARD. ITS MODERN CONSTRUCTION
IS CHARACTERISED BY OPEN, FLEXIBLE
SPACE, WITH RAMMED EARTH AND TIMBERS WO O LLA H R A LIB RARY
HELPING IT BLEND WITH THE NATURAL BY BV N
LANDSC APE. IT WAS DESIGNED BY You’ll find a sky-high atrium lined
FRANCIS-JONES MOREHEN THORP (FJMT), with creepers upon entering the new
AN ARCHITECTURAL PRACTICE THAT HAS
BECOME SOMETHING OF A TRAILBLAZER
Woollahra Library in Sydney’s Double
IN TERMS OF GAME-CHANGING LIBRARY Bay. Architecture firm BVN took cues
DESIGN. FJMT’S CV ALSO INCLUDES THE T H E H ELENSVA LE BR A NCH from the local library’s previous location
AWARD-WINNING SURRY HILLS LIBRARY IN L IBR A RY A ND CCY C BY in nearby Blackburn Gardens and has
SYDNEY AND THE LIBRARY AT THE DOCK IN C O MP LET E UR B A N IN now brought the garden inside. Located
MELBOURNE, WHICH LOOKS MORE LIKE A A S SO CIAT IO N W IT H LA H Z
in a shopping strip with plenty of good
MODERN ART GALLERY THAN A LIBRARY. NIMMO A R CH IT ECT S
cafes on its periphery, visitors are invited
Designed by Complete Urban in association with
to wander in with their coffee and
Lahz Nimmo Architects, the Helensvale Branch
Library and CCYC responds to the climate of browse like they would its neighbouring
south-east Queensland. Clever fixtures include boutique stores. BVN’s design of the new
rooftop solar panels to supply hot water, rainwater Marrickville Library, also in Sydney
collected in underground tanks to be reused, and and slated to open in 2020, will be
a naturally ventilated and lit indoor plaza that given a similarly stylish and community-
offers reprieve from the hot Queensland sun. focused treatment.
34 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
360°of Unforgettable
CLIMBS DEPART REGULARLY 364 DAYS A YEAR
Dawn I Day I Twilight I Night
Thank you for your email. Yet it’s a skill many of us are yet to master. were attended to without his input.
Often driven by employer pressure, personal “Everybody had already done everything,”
I am currently on annual leave, returning ambition or economic fears, Australian he says gratefully. “Yes, there are people in
Monday 25 September. But I’ll probably employees are giving an increasing amount the world who are so critically important
attend to your query anyway so you may as of their time away for free. This habit can that, wherever they are in the world, you
well just ignore this out of office notice. threaten the kind of genuine mental break have always got to be able to reach out and
that allows us to revive and de-stress. It can grab them, but that’s, like, seven people.”
YOU’VE PROBABLY NEVER received also hinder other holiday benefits such as Of course, uncertain hours can also be
an automated reply like this one, but family bonding and improved physical health a consequence of workplace flexibility, a
chances are you should have. Australians, and creativity. modern concept that many of us have
after all, are working more than ever, and Economist Dr Jim Stanford, Director wilfully adopted and value. It’s a matter
our annual leave is suffering. of the Centre for Future Work, explains: of taking the good with the bad.
A 2016 report from the Centre for “There’s a growing willingness by people to But for those striving for a work-free
Future Work at The Australia Institute take the phone, take the laptop, check their break, but struggling, Professor Leiter
found Australian workers have about 48 email, make sure they’re available to their suggests setting boundaries around
million unused holiday days, or close to 10 workplace even if they are on leave,” he says. holiday work time and recruiting a travel
million holiday weeks. The collective value “That is a slippery slope, frankly. On the one companion to help you abide by your own
of that unused leave is more than $11 billion. hand you can say you just want to be there in rule. “Having people completely cold turkey
Meanwhile, much of the annual leave case of emergency, but it’s very easy for that off their connection is a big step,” he says.
that is being cashed in by the Australian to morph into taking a couple of calls or “Short of that you can (set aside) a
workforce may not be providing the answering a couple of emails every day 15-minute or 20-minute session once a
necessary respite. A survey conducted in and lo and behold the mental space you’re day, then you can look at it, then you can
2014 by TripAdvisor found 73 per cent trying to get when you’re on leave starts to respond to what’s critical.”
of Australians work while on holiday, more disappear. The value of the holiday can be As well as calling for regulatory
than double the global average (33 per significantly undermined.” improvements, Dr Stanford believes a
cent). Today’s digital landscape makes The solution is not always as simple as more strict personal approach is key. “I
such dedication – whether reluctant or switching off. For those who work while on think people should reject the idea that
self-generated – possible. Most of us can leave under pressure from management, job they are at the beck and call of their
be reached around-the-clock and many security can feel vulnerable. In such cases, employers whenever it’s needed,” he
of us are permanently connected to the there are government and union protections says. “I think people [need] to have a
workplace via various technologies. that could be helpful. stronger sense that we work to live, we
Professor Michael Leiter, organisational More often, though, the pressure is don’t live to work.”
psychologist at Deakin University, internal and many people face anxiety So, like Professor Leiter recommends,
explains that this environment has about what is going on in the office while perhaps it’s time to recruit help. To enlist
blurred the lines between work they’re away. But, as Professor Leiter a trusty friend; to reinstate the power
I L L U S T R AT I O N : M I K E R O S S I
and play. “The boundary between explains, everything’s probably travelling that was once so flawlessly wielded by the
what is work and what is not work just fine. Speaking from Dublin (where he humble out of office reply.
is particularly loose because the kind of is attending a conference and not speaking to
work people do now is not particularly a journalist while on holiday), he relays the
tied to the place,” he says. “A lot of it is story of his morning scroll through the work
the kind of thing you can do anywhere. inbox. Many emails had been sent during the
Managing that boundary is now sort of Australian work day and, since Prof Leiter
an occupational skill you have to have.” was busily sleeping at the time, most emails
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 37
SHORTCUTS | People’s Choice Awards
WIN A
$10 , 0 0 0
ESCAPE
T O E M I R A T E S O N E & O N LY
W O L G A N VA L L E Y
E N J OY T H R E E N I G H T S AT E M I R AT E S
O N E & O N LY W O L G A N V A L L E Y W I T H
C O M P L I M E N TA RY B M W V E H I C L E T O
E X P L O R E I N L U X U RY
2 017 P E O P L E ’ S C H O I C E AWA R D S
Australian Traveller is looking for Australia’s best travel experiences of 2017 and we need your
nominations. Fill in the attached form or go to australiantraveller.com/peopleschoice2017 to vote
and you could win a three-night ultra-luxury escape to Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley.
38 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
| 2 01 7 P E O P L E ’ S C H O I C E AWA R D S |
nomination entry form
For your chance to win a three-night escape to Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley worth $10,000,
simply fill out this form and send it to the address overleaf. You can answer as many or as few questions
as you like, but you must answer the first question to enter the competition. Good luck!
In the last year, what has been your favourite Australian travel experience, and why? (Maximum 25 words) .............................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
GETAWAYS
W H I C H I S AU S T R ALIA’ S . . .
ACCOMMODATION
W H I C H I S AU S T R ALIA’ S . . .
EXPERIENCES
W H I C H I S AU S T R ALIA’ S . . .
Best food and wine region? ......................................................................... Must-visit city restaurant? .............................................................................
Have you been on a cruise in the last three years? If yes, which is your favourite cruise line? ..........................................................................................
DREAM DESTINATIONS
I N AU S T R A LI A , W HAT IS . . .
The one destination you would recommend every Australian visits and why? ...................................................................................................................
..............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Name:..................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Street address:...................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Which state/territory do you live in? ACT NSW NT QLD SA TAS VIC WA
In the last 12 months, have you travelled in any of the following ways? Tick all that apply: Packaged holiday City break
How many times have you travelled in Australia in the last 12 months? 0 1 2 3 4 5 6-10 11-20 20+
How many times have you travelled overseas in the last 12 months? 0 1 2 3 4 5 6-10 11-20 20+
Approximately, how much do you personally spend per year on travel? Less than $5K $6K-$10K $11K-$20K $21K+
Who do you typically travel with? Solo With friends As a couple As a family with young children
40 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
SHORTCUTS | People’s Choice Awards
E N T E R N OW
AND WIN
THR EE NIGHTS AT EMIR ATES
ONE&ONLY WOLGA N VA LLEY
Take in the dramatic beauty of the Greater Blue Mountains region at one
of Australia’s most luxurious resorts, enjoying pampering treatments at
the One&Only Spa, wildlife safaris, nature walks and heritage tours.
includes:
• Three nights’ accommodation in a Heritage Villa with private pool
• Gourmet breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
• A selection of local wines and beers with meals
• Non-alcoholic beverages and complimentary in-villa bar
• Two nature-based activities per person per day
from the schedule of complimentary inclusions
• Complimentary BMW vehicle hire (from a selected BMW dealer) for
the scenic drive to and from the resort
T O TA L VA L U E AT $1 0 , 0 0 0
A B O U T E M I R AT E S O N E & O N LY W O L G A N VA L L E Y
Emirates One&Only Wolgan Valley is an ultra-luxury conservation-based resort, located 2.5 hours’
drive from Sydney in the World Heritage-listed Greater Blue Mountains region. Set on 7000 acres of
carbon-neutral conservation and wildlife reserve, the resort combines absolute luxury with a
quintessentially Australian bush experience. Occupying just one per cent of the total land area, the
resort features 40 elegantly appointed villas reminiscent of the Federation period, each with its own
swimming pool, double-sided fireplace and private verandah with stunning valley views.
H OW T O E N T E R
Mail the attached survey form or Go online to
australiantraveller.com/peopleschoice2017
This certificate is valid for travel until 30 June 2018. Reservations are subject to availability and excludes peak periods, black-out dates apply. Gift Certificate
is not transferable and cannot be exchanged for cash. Other terms and conditions may apply. Any additional charges must be settled prior to departure.
SHORTCUTS | Rewind
fabulous
flying boats A quiet POCKET
of Sydney was ONCE
HOME to Australia’s
first international
airport and
HARBOURS a
fascinating history,
finds IMOGEN
EVESON.
THE PLACID WATERS of Rose Bay in destinations. Matthew Holle, curator of the
Sydney are disrupted only when a seaplane Museum of Sydney’s 2008 exhibition Flying
comes in to land and take off again; whisking boats: Sydney’s golden age of aviation, recalls his
highflyers away for joy rides over the city, or earliest memory of these aircrafts, landing in
to leisurely lunches on Palm Beach or the a lagoon on Lord Howe Island. “As we
Hawkesbury River. The Sydney Seaplanes touched down a huge plume of water covered
base sits a stone’s throw from the waterfront the window so much so that it felt like we
fine-dining institution, Catalina – its name a were underwater,” he says. “We then taxied to
nod to Rose Bay’s surprising history. a mooring and were greeted by islanders in a
On 5 July, 1938, an Empire Class flying tender who brought us ashore to the most FROM TOP: Aircrew (including Matthew Holle’s mother,
boat departed from here: Australia’s first unspoilt island in the Pacific.” Holle’s parents Margaret) depart Lord Howe Island with bundles of kingfish,
international airport. It was bound for worked on the flying boats at the Rose Bay late ’50s; The last flying boat service from Lord Howe
England, and marked the start of the golden terminal. His mother, Margaret Bellingham, Island in 1974; A Sydney Seaplanes flight over Palm Beach.
age of Australian aviation, when modernity was a hostie when she met Holle’s father Noel,
P H OTO G R A P H Y: CO U RT E S Y O F M A RG A R E T H O L L E ( N É E B E L L I N G H A M )
and luxury combined. Over 10 days – with a maintenance and flight engineer. their fabulous history, and Holle recalls some
remained well-placed to exploit their assets, fool had I attempted that landing’. He was
and so began a new era for the flying boats. so embarrassed he quickly turned around
Their sights were now set on Australia’s and stepped out of the door without looking,
east coast and surrounding South Pacific and splashed straight into the harbour.”
42 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
F r o m t o p : A buzzing
welcome to Tramsheds;
Tram R1 1995, the last tram
to ever roll out of the depot,
before its restoration; The
vintage tram takes pride of
place in the revitalised space.
S
F O U R W A Y S
44 AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH... Tramsheds Harold Park
D A T E
the best of the best from across the state,
from Mudgee to the Hunter Valley. F A L Y
NIGHT MOVES
N I G H T Finish the evening off with coffee at Garçon
T I E
(garcon.com.au), where Ed Cutcliffe’s
There are a fe nts that specialty roasts under his in-demand The Being spoilt for choice is the ultimate measure
ensure any dat tential to Little Marionette moniker offer coffee of success for parents looking to please
become the pe m good food connoisseurs balanced blends using single everyone in the family without having to dash
to a fabulous a cosy coffee origin beans. For maximum couple-cosiness, here, there and everywhere.
thrown in to e tyle. take up position on the seating platforms and
watch the world come and go (Ed plans to IF THESE WALLS COULD TALK
FIRS IRST
ǡ ϐ
being projected above the bustling open While the temptation for the kids will be
Given the wealth of tempting cocktails and galley kitchen). Then grab a bag of beans to head straight to dessert, you can distract
carefully curated wines available throughout to go and a crusty fresh loaf from bakery/ ϐ
Tramsheds that you’ll want to try, the best pizzeria Dust, and you have the makings of the Tramsheds building itself, taking in the
way to arrive is probably by light rail; the the perfect late breakfast after your night out. fascinating historic elements. The last tram 1
Jubilee Park station is literally a two-minute
walk from the door. Once inside, start the
night off with drinks at Sir Chapel, a buzzy
bar and eatery with a laid-back vibe and a
something-for-everyone drinks selection
including classic cocktails with a twist. Try
ǡϐǡ
and orange bitters, to get you in the mood.
A LITTLE ITALY
OR A FISH TALE
rolled out of the depot in 1958, and as the
decades passed the building fell into When it’s time to eat again, head to Dust,
disrepair; evidence of its interim life as a where owner Cesare Salemi stone mills
haven for street artists can be seen all around
Ǥ
grains, sourced from local farmers, on-site to
ǡ
Ǥ
F U N
ʹͲͳͷǡ
ϐ The show-stoppers are the handcrafted wood- W I T H
Ǥ ϐ ǡ
Follow the improvised art past the different
restaurants until you end up at the Tram R1
and pineapple, which constitutes a slice of
Ǥ
F R I E N D S
1995, and then head outside to see the staple; Flour Eggs Water by A Tavola,
markings that show how the trams would (ϔǤ
Ǥ) with its communal An indulgent girls’ night out or beers and
Ǥ tables under a mish-mash of seriously stylish burgers with the boys; there’s room for both.
lighting is another perfect option for a family
THE RIGHT START lunch, utilising the simplest of ingredients to LOOKING GOOD
ϐ Ǥ
If you arrive early, there are a host of hot ϐ While food is undoubtedly the focus at
ǣ ϐ Ǧ diminutive diners: all the pasta served is Tramsheds, enhancing the feel-good factor is
eggs and bacon at Butcher and the Farmer made fresh daily in the open kitchen by a also a priority: start your afternoon of fun
(inside the tram, of course) or opt for a bacon skilled pastaio, under the watch of head chef with a mani/pedi combo at The Depot Nail
and egg roll with house ‘HP’ sauce at Garçon
Ǥ
ǡ Fish & Co. Bar, with its kaleidoscope of colours and
Ǥ (ϔ
Ǥ
Ǥ) has transplanted from indulgent service; or head to Moe & Co.
At artisan bakery and pizzeria Dust Annandale to a fun space, where its owners (moeandco.com.au) for a wash, cut and blow dry
(dustbakery.com) there are myriad breads on ǯ ϐ Ǥ
H I S T O R Y O F T H E T R A M S H E D S
46 AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH... Tramsheds Harold Park
4
DRINK IT ALL IN
C l o c k w i s e f r o m t o p : Order
Bekya’s signature dish, koshari; Pasta
is made fresh daily at Flour Eggs
Water; A taste of the American south
at Belles Hot Chicken.
THE CHAPEL
In search of gorgeous
accommodation that doesn’t
blow the budget, we unearth
gems like this beach-adjacent
boho number close to the heart
of Byron Bay. Turn to page
78 for more.
WEEKENDS | Reviews
sleep
CLOCKWISE FROM
FAR LEFT: Exposed brick
gives away The Ultimo’s
heritage; You’ll find the
hotel in the Chinatown
district; The slick , airy
50 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
The Whitsundays’ Newest and Best Mainland Accommodation
www.miragewhitsundays.com.au
1 300 088 988
11 Altmann Avenue, Cannonvale Qld 4802
WEEKENDS | Reviews
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP
LEFT: Rose gold and
soft pink hues mark
the interior; Natural
light floods the dining
space; Spiced pumpkin
cheesecake with halva
ice-cream; Take a seat
at the kitchen bar.
E A S T M EE T S W ES T
HAVING JUST RETURNED from a transformative of zaatar-smoked goat, pomegranate and Persian
journey to the Middle East (to Abu Dhabi and Oman lime, which give a fresh edge to the smoky flavours, DETAILS
to be precise), my diet while there and since returning while the baby prawn falafel with smoked black tahini
has been made up almost exclusively of hummus, labneh and coriander is crunchy on the outside and soft NOUR
and flat bread, with some pretty pink pomegranate inside, with the tahini adding a slightly bitter edge that Shop 3, 490 Crown
seeds scattered artfully to add colour. Some might works well with the sweet crustacean. Street, Surry Hills, NSW;
suggest my ardour is bordering on an addiction. With the starter sizes proving to be just right, we noursydney.com
So when a lunch-hour get-together presented itself are all ready to dive in again when the mains and The verdict: With the
just a week after my return, I was shameless in steering sides arrive at a suitable interval. The lamb shoulder, bar set high, Nour
my fellow diners towards Nour in the Sydney culinary mograbiah, lamb’s tongue and date dressing is a bit cleared it effortlessly,
enclave of Surry Hills. The menu promised a modern of a signature dish, and it arrives all slow-cooked, with every element of
Lebanese hybrid, but having eaten so well at the aromatic and sticky; there is no knife on the plate, the experience, from the
source during my travels, the bar was set high. which puzzles one of our party, until he sees the food to the staff to the
The dining space itself is delightful, a series of succulent meat fall away from the bone with the setting, hitting the mark.
eating zones resplendent in soft pink and rose gold, gentlest nudge of a fork. It is perfectly accompanied Score:
with a bustling open kitchen at its heart. We are by a crunchy fattoush salad with smoked labneh and We rated: The depth of
ensconced in generous banquette seating and our challah croutons, and crispy gratin potatoes that come flavours and the clever
waiter explains the menu: dishes are designed to be daubed with smoked garlic, chilli and coriander. Our (but never tricky)
shared, with a combination of two to three mezza last dish of Lebanese dumplings of spiced pumpkin modern interpretation
starter plates, a vegetarian option, a larger main and and warm yoghurt swimming in a pool of walnuts and of tried and true
a side advised for our table of five. burnt butter could give the lamb a run for its money classics. And special
Our starters arrive accompanied by fresh, warm as a must-order; the sauce is so delicious you almost mention goes to the
flatbreads. The blue swimmer crab with puffed rice, want to drink it. delightful décor.
compressed watermelon, Persian raisins and avocado If we were smart we would have sacrificed one dish We’d change: The wine
mousse is light and sweet, with the puffed rice adding in order to sample the desserts, but I wouldn’t want to list, which features
an unexpected crunch and extra burst of flavour – choose what to leave out as they were all unmissable. some interesting new
having soaked up some of the juices at the bottom of Nour more than cleared the bar I set; I feel a new world wines, could
the bowl. The hummus comes with thin, tender slices addiction coming on. be a little bit more
inclusive: it’s good but
All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way – so we experience exactly what you would. it’s not excellent.
52 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
STEAL A LITTLE TIME
for yourselves this summer
Spicers Retreats provides the ultimate tonic to the busyness of the summer season. Here, reconnecting and
relaxing are the only things on the ‘to-do’ list thanks to luxurious accommodation, stunning natural settings,
award-winning cuisine and attentive service.
Price based on a one night Bed and Breakfast package at Spicers Clovelly Estate or Spicers Hidden Vale staying on a Friday or Saturday night.
WEEKENDS | Reviews
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT: Tribe’s communal
dining space; The rooms
are compact but clever;
The lounge-lobby is glam
and colourful; Tobie Puttock
has overseen the menu.
THE
Can a HOTEL BUILT in a matter of weeks on
the cusp of Perth’s KINGS PARK tick the right
boxes? FLEUR BAINGER checks in to TRIBE.
M E C C A NO DETAILS
SET
HAVING YOUR HOTEL made in China isn’t
usually something to crow about. But Tribe Perth is TRIB E PERTH
rather proud of the fact it was constructed in only two 4 Walker Avenue, West Perth;
weeks, something made possible by its pre-fabricated, tribehotels.com.au
modular rooms that are stacked up like Lego. connect a music-playing Bluetooth device, but Verdict: Hip design hotel
Not that you’d know. The eight-storey building alas, only if it’s a Samsung), a mini fridge absent of with plenty of personality in
that opened in May in West Perth’s corporate zone mini bar and a pod bathroom with Kevin Murphy a corporate location near the
blends in effortlessly, with its jet black, shiny products. A huge singular window with blackout city centre. The 126 compact
cube-shaped glass exterior. And then you saunter blinds that reveals my Kings Park view, costing extra, rooms are ideal for the
inside to find a designer wonderland with a modern is dominated by an ugly office building. At checkout overnight business traveller.
luxe vibe. Neon lights reflect in black columns as I’m advised the hotel is reviewing its view classings. Score:
shiny as patent leather; chairs fluffier than a poodle I regard Tribe’s other niggles as similar teething We rated: The fun, un-hotel
sit beside a giant chesterfield in emerald velvet; issues: my bed is stripped while I’m at breakfast, feel and the colourful,
spray paint splashes plush lobby stools and despite a ‘quiet’ sign on the door and a 12 noon mismatched yet glam
multi-directional director’s lights illuminate checkout, and a $25 parking fee is charged furnishings, pop culture
the airy entry space. I feel cool by association. without warning (they waive it). books and buzzing beats,
So do the front desk staff, I’d wager. All three say Dinner (menu courtesy of celebrity chef Tobie all in the lounge-lobby.
hello without lifting their eyes from their screens. Puttock) surpasses expectations via a tasty mixed We’d change: You’ll only score
Tribe calls itself a tech savvy destination but this grain salad and lamb shanks. In keeping with Tribe’s a park view on the top floor;
wasn’t what I had in mind. More accommodating unconventional style, it can be had in the communal next time we’d opt for the
is the wi-fi: there’s no password required. space or brought up to my firm, comfy bed. urban side and aim to roost
I beam up to the sixth floor in a mirrored lift And that’s what makes this hotel stand out as in the upper echelons.
and gasp as I enter my black, grey and white room. a somewhat discerning, young-at-heart offering Notes: We paid $199 for a
It’s compact. But clever, too: a felt bed base has that business travellers will love. Privately owned ‘park view’ room on level 6,
cut-outs for bags and shoes; there are USB points but managed by Mantra Group, it sticks to some which included breakfast,
in the walls, a flat screen TV (to which you can rules but breaks just as many others. espresso, wi-fi and in-house
movies. Parking is $25 and
All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way – so we experience exactly what you would. must be requested in advance.
54 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
AT PROMOTION | Gippsland
Flirtatiousness (La coquetterie), 1929. René Magritte at the Jardin des Plantes, photo-booth photo, by René Magritte; private collection, courtesy Brachot Gallery, Brussels
MUST SEE:
ARTFUL ESCAPES:
ǡ
René Magritte and The Barbarian (Le Barbare), London Gallery, London, 1938, by René Magritte; private collection, courtesy Brachot Gallery, Brussels
L at r o b e Vall e y ǯ
Ǥ
ǡ
Gippsland is well known for its artisan food and wine culture, but with
ǡ
Ǥ
the redevelopment of the Latrobe Regional Gallery it is fast establishing
itself as Victoria’s premiere cultural outpost too.
EAT: DRINK:
From rugged coastline vistas to endless back
ϐ
ǡ
ǡ ǡ
from Glengarry,
ǡ
Street in Morwell, Narkoojee Winery
offers modern
Ǥ Australian cuisine ǯ
booming arts scene set to invigorate it even
best cool climate
ǡ ǯ Ǧ Ǥ local ingredients; wines, all produced
ǡ
ǯ Ǥ
Ǥ
ǡ ǡ ǯ Ǧ
ϐ
Ǥ
international
VISIT: SEE:
cuisines; Neilsons
RENÉ MAGRITTE:
ͳͺͲǡǡ
The Latrobe Regional Gallery uses seasonal local
August 19 – November 19, 2017 produce, including
ǯǡ
ǯ
Ǥǡ ǡ
Ǥ
̈́ͳǤͷ
ǯ
ǡ ǡ
GETTING THERE:
ϐ
ǯ Ǥ ± Ǥ By train: Ȁ ǡ
The Revealing Image features original Ǥ
ϐ By car: ͳ
ǯ
ǡ
ǡ
ʹ Ǥ
Ǥ
inspiredbygippsland.com.au
ʹͲ
ǡϐ
latroberegionalgallery.com
popular and conceptual artists including
ǡ
Ǥlatroberegionalgallery.com
WEEKENDS | Reviews
CLOCKWISE FROM
FAR LEFT: Taverna’s
well-stocked bar;
Slow-roasted lamb; Breezy
interiors; Refresh with a
cocktail; Colourful food
fusions; The beachside
restaurant’s gorgeous façade.
DETAILS
DR EAMING taverna.net.au
Verdict: The ultimate
Australian and Greek
TAVERNA fuses North Coast NSW’s SLEEPY BEACH charm cuisine blend, combined
with a view that would
with OLD-WORLD GREECE. Craig Tansley samples the make jaws slack – even
region’s BEST NEW offering. in Santorini. Although
I HAVEN’T EVEN MADE IT inside Taverna and it’s actually the staff
already my hackles are raised; there’s a showroom who make Taverna
of $100,000-plus European cars parked outside. most memorable.
Much of the Far North Coast of New South Wales That’s not where the fusion ends. Owners Mark Score:
has been overtaken by the ‘fancy brigade’; boat shoe Wilson and Lia Mason (along with partner Lee We rated: A relaxed
and polo shirt-wearers (with collars raised), swanning Middendorf) run the region’s best-regarded eatery, atmosphere that made
between lunches in shiny Porsche SUVs. The sleepy Casuarina’s Osteria, and its blending of traditional gourmet dining seem
hamlet of Kingscliff was always a target, with a Italian fare with modern Australian ideas is legendary like a dinner at home.
glorious river that cuts through town and its location in these parts. Taverna does the same, Greek-style. Dishes that emphasise
just 20 minutes from Gold Coast Airport. A signature dish I try first is a North Coast take on the quality of the North
But it takes barely 60 seconds for my fears to be saganaki: Byron Bay haloumi, lightly fried and drizzled Coast’s produce.
allayed; there’s a down-home quality that you feel with bush honey washed down with Australia’s first We’d change: Not a darn
from the moment you’re inside. Perhaps it’s the rustic Assyrtiko (produced by Jim Barry Wines). thing. Though perhaps
old brick floor, or the simple table settings; though Fried cheese will always make new friends, but it’s we’d ask when booking
more likely it’s the staff. There’s not a single ‘sir’ or actually the delicate dishes Taverna does so well like if there are big groups
‘madam’ dining in Taverna today. the confit ocean trout with artichoke hearts and goat’s likely today – the clever
I’m seated by the open front windows that look cheese on a fresh apple and mint salad that I order as a staff managed to negate
across to the Pacific Ocean and a rugged off-shore islet main. And the fried local squid with seaweed crisps a hen’s group of 15.
(Cook Island), though my view is dominated by a and a pink peppercorn mayo. Notes: Open 5pm till late,
Moreton Bay fig tree full of sleeping corellas. It’s as Sure, I have neighbours in up-collared Ralph Lauren Thursday, Friday; and
if Santorini got fused into a jus with a Frederick pink, but inside Taverna, it’s still the same Kingscliff 12pm till late Saturday
McCubbin landscape. my grandparents moved here for 35 years ago. and Sunday (Sunday
evening is ‘chef ’s table’
All AT reviews are conducted anonymously and our writers pay their own way – so we experience exactly what you would. banquet-style dining).
56 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
H A RV EST
MOON
As Broome’s SHINJU MATSURI gets set for another
year, we take a look at the town’s PEARLING HERITAGE,
and WHAT TO DO while you’re there – from pearl
harvesting to long table dinners on CABLE BEACH.
CLOCKWISE
FROM FAR LEFT:
Red lanterns
adorn Cable Beach;
Shinju Matsuri
celebrates Broome’s
multicultural past;
Sammy the Chinese
dragon makes his
presence felt.
OPPOSITE:
Lanterns light
the Sunset Long
Table Dinner.
LINGER A LITTLE IN BROOME and pretty soon In the early 1870s, restrictions were brought in
you’ll start seeing pearls everywhere: in the full moon’s against enslaving Aboriginal people, and female divers
glowing orb as it shines on mudflats, in strings of fairy banned. Asian immigrants were instead indentured
lights hung above a grassy beer garden, even in the to plunge even deeper beneath the surface wearing
dinner plates of a balmy, open-air restaurant. Call it a heavy, spaceman-like helmets, lead-weighted boots
lust for lustre, or too much time under the northern weighing 20 kilograms each and hand knitted woollen
sun. Either way, the organic gems, nurtured by the undergarments underneath diving suits to brace against
Kimberley region’s immense tropical tides and Tiffany- the cold. They’d spend up to seven hours underwater,
blue bays, deserve gratitude: without them, Broome and and the survival rate was low. By 1910, Broome was
all its sun-kissed holiday escapism might not exist. And home to more than 400 pearl lugging boats, making
then we’d never twig that Broome is also home to the it the largest pearling centre in the world.
largest dinosaur footprints on Earth, harbours dolphins “By the 1940s, there were gambling dens and five
so rarely spotted that David Attenborough flew in to brothels in town,” says Bart as we walk beside Broome’s
witness them, and neighbours twin waterfalls that flow, distinguishing corrugated iron buildings with their
of all things, horizontally. wraparound, cross-hatch lattice verandahs, designed
It’s surprising to learn that the pearls we pay for air flow. Plenty of interracial relationships blossomed,
thousands for today were once thrown away in lieu of the multicultural legacy of which characterises the
their pearlescent shells. Broome’s Pinctada maxima is Broome of today. Indeed, Bart’s three-times great
the largest pearl shell in the world and from the 1880s grandmother, Agnes ‘Guilwil’ Bryan, was one of the
onwards, it was punched with circles to make shiny first of Broome’s mixed raced inhabitants – with an
buttons. The ensuing boom meant Japanese, Filipino, English/Irish father and an Aboriginal mother.
Malay, Koepanger and Chinese people flocked to the Pearling is no longer the cash cow of old. The advent
laid-back frontier town – one of the most remote in the of plastic in the 1950s killed the button trade, and
world – but not before local Aboriginals were exploited although the industry evolved to the point of culturing
in the rush for mother of pearl shell. perfectly spherical pearls as high-value jewellery, it’s an
“In the early days, pearl shells were found out on the intricate, challenging and expensive game. Today, there’s
flats of the beach,” says Bart Pigram, a Yawuru man and less than a handful of working pearl farms in the region.
leader of Narlijia Cultural Tours, who guides visitors Yet Broome is still deeply connected to the pearling
through the historic heart of Broome. “Over time, they trade, and not just as the local adornment of choice.
had to dive deeper and deeper.” Bart’s UK-born four- Each September, Shinju Matsuri – Japanese for
times-great-grandfather was one of the early pearlers to ‘festival of the pearl’ – bridges the town’s heritage
engage in the pearling slave trade. A visit to the town’s with present-day descendants. Where once there were
Pearl Luggers museum lays its ugly history bare: most several cultural celebrations marking the return of
Aboriginal people were tricked into slavery. Pregnant pearl luggers, now the 47-year-old festival brings the
Indigenous women were particularly favoured as free- entire town, and all its visitors, together.
divers, due to a belief they could hold their breath for
longer – a statue in Pioneer Park pays tribute to them. F E S T I VA L F E V E R
All divers had to surface with either a shell or sand The nine-day event symbolically opens with the
in their hand to prove they had reached the bottom; awakening of Sammy the Chinese Dragon, who dances
holding neither resulted in a beating. past festival president Chris Maher, proudly sporting 1
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 59
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT:
The sapphire blue waters of Cable
Beach; Guests attend last year’s
Sunset Long Table Dinner; It’s a
dinner with a view; Discover dino
footprints by hovercraft; Pearl
meat ceviche canapés at the Sunset
Long Table Dinner; Sammy the
Chinese Dragon on the opening
day of the festival; Willie Creek
pearl oysters. OPPOSITE: The
glorious sundeck at Mangrove
Hotel; Find some treasure with
Willie Creek Pearls.
his ‘man strand’ of Cygnet Bay pearls, and darts atmosphere of the chic Mangrove Hotel – the best
wildly through opening ceremony crowds. Another place to see it – the emotive warble of a didgeridoo
night, countless 4WD vehicles flow like ants before fills the air as the moon begins its ascent. Its pale
a storm to Cable Beach. At sundown, people release reflection in the wet, chiselled mudflats of Roebuck
hundreds of floating lanterns carrying remembrance Bay lengthens until it seems as though you could
messages onto the water. The still ocean is dotted climb up and touch it. Like a pearl, its bewitching
with the flickers of candles, bobbing gently in the existence is inextricably linked to the Kimberley’s
shallows. Come Saturday night, the town glams up massive tides that recede to create its gleaming mud
– many enlisting help from its pearl retailers – for a stage. mangrovehotel.com.au
Sunset Long Table Dinner for 450 on Cable Beach’s
sandy expanse. This year, the festival has secured AU S T R A L I A ’ S J U R A S S I C PA R K
Three Blue Ducks chef Darren Robertson. And last It’s one thing to gaze at dinosaur bones in a museum
year, celebrity chef Adam Liaw flew in to turn eight display, and entirely another to walk beside the
kilograms of pearl meat into ceviche, paired with 130-million-year-old footprint trail of a huge
40 dampers made by a local Indigenous woman. sauropod, fossilised in ancient rock. Thousands of
“The menu reflects the culture; Broome is one of dinosaur tracks are scattered across Broome’s rusty
few places to have true regional cuisine,” Adam red Dampier Peninsula; it harbours the most diverse
says. “But the sunset is the main hero of the show.” collection of dinosaur footprints in the world along a
Shinju Matsuri is held from 2–10 September 2017. 25-kilometre stretch of coastline. There are so many,
shinjumatsuri.com.au new ones were momentarily uncovered by the tide
on Cable Beach during last year’s Shinju Matsuri.
M OO N L I G H T M AG I C The biggest measure around 1.7 metres long, which
Across the other side of town, a natural light is about the height of the average Australian male,
phenomenon draws people like moths to a flame. officially making them the largest recorded, globally.
Shinju Matsuri always coincides with a full moon, A palaeontologist who spent six years studying
so the illumination event known as Staircase to the the area recently described it as the “Cretaceous
Moon can have maximum effect. In the garden party equivalent of the Serengeti” – something local guide,
WEEKENDS | Broome
DETAILS
18 DEGREES An open-air
tapas bar that specialises in
edgy cocktails and friendly
service. The barramundi here
is a must-try. facebook.
Myles Penegar has suspected for some time. recognised in 2005, usually hidden in northern com/18degreesbroome
His quirky hovercraft tours whisk people gently estuaries and rivers. Broome’s were only noticed
across the sand at low tide past turtles, egrets a couple of years ago and they’re so blissfully at CA B LE B EACH CL UB SUN SE T
and pelicans to a remote, otherwise inaccessible ease in Roebuck Bay’s tidal waters, they’re easily B A R AND GRILL There’s no
beach. There, circular sauropod prints are observed. broomewhalewatching.com.au better place to gaze at a
all but invisible until he points out preserved Broome sunset with an icy cold
indentations in the rock – after that you can’t TH E F RU I T S O F A P E A R L FA R M drink in hand. The bar stools out
miss them. It leaves you in no doubt about It’s quite something to see a pearl plucked from front are hot real estate.
dinosaurs’ immense weight; subsurface layers inside a live, dripping wet oyster. Like a diamond cablebeachclub.com/dine/
of stone reveal the impact of each step in mind- before the stone is polished and cut, the pearl is restaurants-and-bars/
blowing clarity. broomehovercraft.com.au mottled with plaque-like yellow, its lustre barely sunset-bar-and-grill
perceptible. Harvested during a cruise of Willie
TH E CUR IOUS SNU B FI N D O L PH I N Creek Pearl Farm, the chatty guide dips his arms MA NGROVE HOT E L
They’re cute, they’re rarely seen and David into a sky-blue estuary where cultured pearl The feel is English garden
Attenborough rates them enough to include them beds are strung, filtering the nutrient-rich water. party-meets-designer bar,
in his upcoming Blue Planet II series. That’s just Following a lesson on the intricate art of pearl with a white-on-white palette,
three reasons to jump aboard the Broome Whale seeding – where a tiny plastic sphere is tweezered pastel tone patterned tiles
Watching catamaran to see Broome’s recently into the oyster – our boat party is filled with and oodles of lush grass.
discovered snubfin dolphins. Owner and skipper, tangible appreciation for the pretty spheres we You’ll want to hang out here.
Cameron Birch, admits they flummoxed him to string around our necks and pop in our ears. The mangrovehotel.com.au
start with. “I knew so little about them, I thought farm is found at the end of a bumpy, 38-kilometre
they were dugongs,” he laughs. With their outback track, stained the richest paprika tone GREEN MA NGO CA FE
melon-like heads, fish-sized fins and tri-hued grey imaginable. The iron-rich soil dusts the native Broome-time casual, this is
skin, it’s an understandable mistake. But where trees, contrasting against the giant sky dappled where you’ll find the best
dugongs bob and sink, “snubbys” hunt by spitting with cotton tail clouds – a journey sacrificed mango smoothies in town, good
three-metre jets through the air, confusing if you take the scenic chopper transfer option. coffees and filling breakfasts.
their fishy prey. The endemic species was only thebroomeexperience.com.au wildmangocafe.com.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 61
H I P
H O O D
CH I PPE N DA L E
TOURISTS HITTING up Sydney’s big smoke often beeline for POSTCARD ICONS
such as Bondi Beach or Circular Quay. But there’s plenty HAPPENING in the INNER
CITY, and Chippendale is leading the charge, writes KATE SYMONS.
THE TRAIN PULLS IN to Sydney’s Central Station surrounded by I was mad choosing a location like Chippendale.” Nicky is now
a framework of steel and metal; the tracks below, the beams above and president of the Chippendale Creative Precinct, as well as creative
the web of cables stretching this way and that. It’s a sight that barely director of Kensington Street, the suburb’s hallmark strip.
registers with the average commuter; it simply blends in to the daily ‘Creative precinct’ is a far cry from the suburb William
grind. But on this day, with my back facing my destination for once, Chippendale knew. Chippendale was a land holder in the area in the
the industrial surrounds fade into the background as a calming wall early 19th century. The suburb takes its name from the farmer who
of greenery pushes to the fore. Defined by the largest en masse vertical – side note – one night took to two petty criminals he found
gardens in the world, which cover 1100 square metres and beautifully trespassing on his property with a double-barrel shotgun, killing one.
dress the building’s exterior, Central Park is the multipurpose Colourful characters are a trademark of the area’s shady past.
high-rise that stands proud in Sydney’s revived Chippendale precinct. Today’s characters are colourful too, although less shabby and more
The restorative sight is a fair metaphor for the regeneration of chic. But to pigeonhole the crowd would be an error; the diversity is
Chippendale itself; a revival that has transformed the small inner-city part of the appeal. “Locals, visitors, students, commuters, business
locale from seedy wasteland to creative epicentre. The Central Park people and tourists all brush against each other here and the realness
development can take a bow for its role in the revival. So too can and open nature of the place instils a level of harmony,” says Timo
Nicky Ginsberg, who saw Chippendale’s potential when she opened Bures, general manager of The Old Clare Hotel.
NG Art Gallery in 2006. “Back then Chippendale was a cultural That harmony is emphasised when you’re spoilt for choice. Here
desert,” Nicky recalls. “You could hear a pin drop. Everybody thought are a few tips on where to start.
62 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
WEEKENDS | Hip hood
KENS I N G TO N
S TREET S O C I AL
The Michelin-starred chef Jason Atherton has
collected success after success and his Sydney
debut, Kensington Street Social, has continued
the trend since opening last year. Housed within
The Old Clare Hotel, the space is an extension
of the hotel’s industrial chic style. This creates
a casual atmosphere, but the food could hardly
be described as such. Creative dishes and
memorable flavours are the order of the day,
and night. kensingtonstreetsocial.com
WEEKENDS | Hip hood
Spice Alley
GO FOR THE ATMOSPHERE, STAY
FOR THE FOOD. TUCKED IN A N
A LLEYWAY B EHIND KENSINGTON
STREET, KOPI-TIAM SPICE ALLEY IS
A LITTLE SLICE OF THE B USTLING
HAW KER CENTRES THAT HELP
DEFINE ASIA . THE OPEN-AIR FOOD
COURT, DECORATED W ITH PAPER
LA NTERNS, OFFERS A STREET-FOOD
TOUR THROUGH SINGA PORE,
JAPAN, MALAYSIA , THAILAND,
CHINA A ND VIETNAM.
SPIC E-AL L EY.C OM .AU
P H O T O G R A P H Y: S I M O N W O O D ( S P I C E A L L E Y )
C ON C R ET E JUN G L E FREDA’S
Clean eating is still a raging trend and the benefits This warehouse-turned-speakeasy has
are hard to deny. But the cult-following has also been a thriving Chippendale haunt
delivered plenty of eye-roll moments. Thankfully, since moving into the neighbourhood
Concrete Jungle, isn’t one of them. The menu is in 2012. Tucked down an alleyway,
entirely halal and predominantly plant-based with a world away yet just metres from
ingredients that are ethically sourced. Some will care bustling Regent Street, Freda’s
more about these traits than others, but we all care celebrates live music and good times,
about taste, and Concrete Jungle absolutely nails it aided in part by a solid drinks menu.
in the flavour department. concretejunglecafe.com fredas.com.au
64 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
SHINJU MATSURI
Festival of the Pearl, Broome
Visit beautiful Broome from 2–10 September 2017, with Qantas Holidays for the annual Festival of
the Pearl – Shinju Matsuri. A kaleidoscope of colour that celebrates the fusion of cultures which
played a role in shaping Broome during its prosperous pearling days.
Image: Tourism Western Australia / Julia Rau Photography
WITH WIDE SPARKLING EYES gazing from under didn’t have the knowledge to use them properly until a
his Akubra, Geoff Mark (better known as Marksie) avidly visit to the Northern Territory in the 1970s, when he
recounts a story as though it’s the first time he’s told was in his twenties.
anyone. “My grandfather, Bill, was a professional rabbit “I got the chance to meet some Aboriginal people,
trapper in Rainbow, Victoria, and my father, Brian, was one woman in particular who helped me.” [She has passed
also a keen bushman,” he says as dusk falls behind him. “As away so her name cannot be mentioned for cultural
a young boy, I earnt pocket money from trapping rabbits, reasons.] Seemingly the secrets of bush food cannot be
dressing them out and selling them to my neighbours.” passed on to just anyone – Indigenous people are, after
A vast, clear sky dotted with countless stars is spread all, the custodians of bush food and of the knowledge
above us, and the warm glow of several campfires flicker associated with its use – so it took several trips over
in the fading light; it’s an infinitely peaceful night. seven years before she agreed to help him. With elder
We’re seated at a long trestle table with three other Indigenous women the experts in this field, Marksie tells
couples; another table seats two families. Bonnie (one us, “I was white and a male. But after returning to Darwin
of four adorable rescued wallabies with a penchant for year after year, she eventually let me spend 10 days out
bush tucker) also competes for our attention as she bush with her – this changed everything for me.”
potters around our table, but we’re engrossed in Marksie’s Years later in 2001, after meeting Katie Young – an
story about how he came to host camp tucker nights up Aboriginal woman who has an associate doctorate in
here in Katherine. tropical horticulture – Marksie moved to Katherine
Despite some initial reservations, we quickly learn this is and set up the Stockman’s Camp Tucker experience,
not just a well-executed Australiana spectacle for tourists; during which Katie would conduct bush food
Marksie has a genuine passion for using native herbs, spices demonstrations for his guests. She has since moved
and fruits in cooking, and his journey from rabbit-trapping to Alice Springs, but 16 years on, Marksie continues
youngster to a man adept at working with bush foods is these cook-ups along with his wife, Penny, a local
a long and interesting one (and one he is remarkable at midwife and part-time bush tucker assistant.
telling). His interest in bush ingredients began when he Penny serves our entrée, which consists of three
was a young boy surrounded by ‘bush men’, but he says he canapé-style dishes: crocodile and beef sausage roll with 1
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP:
Dinner is made using
native ingredients;
A camp oven;
Cooking with a
billycan; Take a
cruise down the
Katherine River.
OPPOSITE: Still
waters in nearby
Nitmiluk Gorge;
Marksie’s Stockman’s
Camp Tucker
Night takes place
near Katherine.
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 67
bush tomato seasoning and desert quandong sauce; 120 people running similar experiences when he
wild barramundi with lemon myrtle and rainforest began, but now there are very few: “It is sad to
spice; and camel sausage with mountain pepper say that many of the old-timers that used to do
and sweet chilli sauce. Jugs of ‘Jungle Juice’, a what I do are no longer with us. It’s a very time-
homemade drink of native mint and forestberry consuming and slow business, so not many people
herbs, accompanies the food. want to take it on,” he says.
I’ve tasted crocodile before (the sausage roll is Yet the growing appreciation for native flavours,
delicious), but I hesitate with the camel sausage. their beauty and versatility, has taken bush foods
After some positive feedback from my fellow in a whole new direction, and they are appearing CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP: Team
diners, I take a bite, hoping it ‘tastes like chicken’ increasingly in top-notch restaurants across the your camp tucker
as all foreign meats do. It doesn’t. country. Hatted establishments such as Sydney’s experience with a
Setting it aside, I appreciate the fruits, herbs Billy Kwong and Melbourne’s Vue de Monde, and cruise of Nitmiluk
LE F T ): BOWL AND S POON FROM DINOSAU R DES IGN S (DINOS AU R DESIGNS .COM . AU ), BOWL
Gorge; Make friends
I N G R E D I E N T S ) ; N AT I V E I N G R E D I E N T S TA B L E W E A R P R O D U C T S ( C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P
and spices used in these dishes – desert quandong, Adelaide’s Orana have embraced native ingredients
P H O T O G R A P H Y: M E G A N A R K I N S TA L L ( N I T M I L U K G O R G E C R U I S E ) ; G U Y B A I L E Y ( N AT I V E
with a rescued
F R O M R O L F L I E ( 0 4 12 0 4 7 611) , B O W L F O R T H E P R O V I D S T O R E ( P R O V I D E R S T O R E . C O M . A U )
also known as desert peach, a sweet fruit that is on their menus, with respective dishes such as red- wallaby at Marksie’s;
tart and high in Vitamin C; lemon myrtle, found braised caramelised wallaby tail; Davidson plum Marskie spends all
on the east coast, similar to zesty lemon verbena; sorbet with sorrel and flowers; and riberry, native day preparing for his
and the aromatic mountain pepper, made from juniper, muntrie and mango. Stockman’s Camp.
dried berries found in Tasmania and south-east Our main course for the evening is a little more
Australia. These uniquely Australian flavours humble, comprising roast beef with native pepper
are ironically more exotic to most of us than, say, berry; roast potatoes with aniseed myrtle (which DETAILS
the south-east Asian dragonfruit, the Central has a subtle liquorice flavour); and peas with native
American guava, or the Mexican chipotle. And it mint (originally used by Indigenous Australians for
is this unfamiliarity with native food that sparked medicinal purposes). A delicious hot-from-the- Getting there
Marksie’s desire to teach other Australians how it camp-oven damper with roasted wattle seeds is Marksie’s Stockman’s Camp
can be used in everyday cooking – and to showcase served on the side with creamy butter, and we finish Tucker is located in the
a beautiful “marriage of white and Indigenous the evening with homemade scones, fresh jam and grounds of Top Didj Cultural
Australian culture” to his many overseas guests. cream, while watching two of the younger diners Experience on Gorge Road,
With a menu that changes to suit what’s in go head-to-head in a billy spinning competition. seven kilometres from the
season, around 14 different types of herbs, spices, Sure, it’s a far cry from the award-winning fare Post Office in Katherine,
and fruits are used on any given night – many of served under city lights, but the hearty and homely Northern Territory. It runs
which are collected by Marksie himself when he dishes we’ve tasted tonight perfectly complement five nights a week during
goes bush with local Indigenous ladies who he calls this very Australian setting under the outback the dry season and the cost
his close friends. stars. And more importantly, what’s a campfire is $75 per adult and $35
But it’s not just the foraging that’s finicky work. without a colourful story or two? Marksie’s per child (two–13 years)
To prepare for every camp tucker dinner, Marksie outstanding ability to tell a good yarn in between for a three-course meal
lights the first fire around 5am and by the time courses, if a little irreverent and exaggerated at with non-alcoholic Jungle
the last guest leaves and clean-up is complete, it’s times, has us utterly entertained. Indeed, this is Juice. BYO alcohol.
almost midnight. (I suddenly appreciate my camel a stockman’s dinner after all, where in place of Bookings are required;
sausage a great deal more.) There were around a chef ’s hat is a top-notch Akubra. marksiescamptucker.com.au
WEEKENDS | Top End camp tucker
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 69
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AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 71
RO C K S A N D RO L L
P H O T O G R A P H Y: E D W A R D U R R U T I A ( B A N K S I I ) ; N I K K I T O ( S O R RY T H A N K S I L O V E YO U )
from The Rocks to Barangaroo, from the city’s colonial
beginnings to its brand new quarter that pays homage to
the land’s ancient heritage, and you’ll rediscover Sydney
at its most charming, creative and delicious.
PA RT O N E C I R C U L A R Q UAY S TAT I O N
TO T H E BR I D G E – RO U G H LY 1 0 A M - 3 P M
Your journey through what is the traditional land of
the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation begins at iconic
Ruby Boukabou takes you on a Circular Quay, where even Sydney locals can’t help but
marvel at the world-famous view from the ferry hub to the
WALKING TOUR from The Opera House and Harbour Bridge. Curve around the quay
Rocks to BARANGAROO, (bridge side), and pause to listen to some of the talented
buskers before making your way into the fabulous Museum
a journey from the OLDEST of Contemporary Art Australia. The rooftop restaurant
CORNER of the city to its here is perfect for a coffee or late breakfast with a view
out across the harbour, and it’s an excuse to sit and get your
most DAZZLING RECENT bearings before exploring this wonderfully curated gallery.
Now it’s time to hit The Rocks. Pop into the cute
addition, with many GREAT Creperie Suzette or the courtyard of La Renaissance
FINDS along the way. patisserie (head chef Jean Michel Raynaud has the
Relais Dessert stamp no less). If it’s Friday, there’s the
fantastic Foodie Market outside. Be sure to taste some
olive oil and dukkah from the Hunter Valley’s Pukara
Estate, fuel up with delicious beef jerky from Biltong
To Go and try a cupcake from Mini Monet.
72 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
SHORTCUTS | The Rocks to Barangaroo
PA RT T WO B R I D G E TO B A R A N G A RO O
– RO U G H LY 3 P M - 8 P M
Rested and revitalised, stroll under the
awesome Sydney Harbour Bridge. Continue
down Hickson Road alongside the piers
(there are still places to tie up your horse!),
and turn into Pier 4, the area’s artistic hub
with Sydney Theatre Company, Bangarra,
Australian Theatre for Young People and
Sydney Dance Company all in residence. If
you’re here just before 3pm, Pier 8 cafe is a
wonderful industrial space at Pier 8/9, where
you can watch yachts cruising the harbour.
Now it’s time to discover the latest jewel
in Sydney’s crown, Barangaroo; named after
the powerful Cammeraygal woman who was
a key figure in the local Aboriginal
community during early colonial settlement.
The Barangaroo development is a series of
three waterfront precincts that have
reclaimed much of the harbour’s formerly
industrial foreshore for the public, including CLOCKWISE FROM
the beautiful, six-hectare headland park. TOP: A view of the
Download the app, Barangaroo Ngangamay, Harbour Bridge from
Walsh Bay; Colourful
that allows you to watch a series of beautiful
I L L U S T R AT I O N : M I K E R O S S I
old houses in The Rocks;
(very) short films that whisper of the land’s A mix of the old and new;
Aboriginal presence with links to the ocean. Delicate Thai flavours
From here, you’re close to the historic using Australian produce
come together at Wild
Hotel Palisade, once a port workers’ pub Ginger Dining + Bar.
and now, following a grand reopening in
2015, the place to go for a mulled wine or
sun-kissed spritz on the sophisticated
rooftop cocktail lounge, Henry Deane.
End your day with dinner in Barangaroo’s
southern precinct, home to a collection of
boutique stores and exciting eateries. You’ll
find whiskies, an after-work bar menu and
tailored shirts at Shirt Bar, and Japanese-
inspired burgers at Ume Burger. Or head
to southern-style Belles Hot Chicken, a
cult-favourite; Somer Sivrioglu’s Turkish
restaurant Anason or Banksii; named after
botanist Sir Joseph Banks, where you can
enjoy a vermouth apéritif followed by braised
lamb shoulder, a prawn and fennel bisque or
even some Sydney rock oysters.
74 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
Elisha Kennedy dives into
the CATCH-AND-COOK
philosophy, literally, by taking
a HANDS-ON tour through
the bountiful waters of NSW’s
FAR SOUTH COAST.
Ocean
to
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP:
Clamber over rocks to
reach the shore; The
WE HAD ALWAYS PLANNED to make our road
trip to the base of the New South Wales south coast
our ‘seafood holiday’. As city-dwellers, my partner and
plate
bays of the Sapphire I relished the opportunity to cast our phones aside Through ACWA, Scott offers small-group marine
Coast teem with life; and drive to a place where the ocean is sapphire blue experiences including snorkelling, prawning and ocean
ACWA provides all and you can pick up a dozen delicious oysters from a to plate. We chose the ocean-to-plate experience, which
snorkelling gear; roadside stall for under $10. incorporates a targeted dive for abalone, lobsters, mussels,
Collect your own
seafood delicacies; A That is our idea of heaven, but we wanted more than crayfish and sea urchins followed by a cook-up of the
dish of freshly caught just buying our meals – we wanted to physically catch seafood harvest for lunch. The market value alone to
P H O T O G R A P H Y: T O D D H A R D I N G H A M
mussels prepared with our own. We’re both competent at fishing and were keen buy this produce is hundreds of dollars, but it was the
other local produce. to try something more hands-on, but how would we opportunity to pick the brains of a local marine expert
know where to look? What to bring? Or what to do with that really had us hooked.
it when we found it? Easy – ask a local. We met Scott at the Eden Visitor Information Centre,
Scott Proctor grew up on the Sapphire Coast and and from here he drove us to a remote access point to
has spent a large portion of his life either in the ocean, Twofold Bay. All necessary gear, equipment and a fishing
or learning about it. After studying marine science at the licence is provided and, after kitting up, we clambered
University of Wollongong, he returned to his hometown over rocks to the shore.
of Pambula, deciding to share his passion for the sustainable A quick verbal run-through from Scott on
seafood that is available there through his tour company, snorkelling and breathing techniques, and we were
Australia’s Coastal Wilderness Adventures (ACWA). in practising our dives. It doesn’t take long to get the
WEEKENDS | Do something different
hang of it, and we improved with each resurfacing. When lunch”, and he always varies dive locations. “It’s crucial
we felt comfortable in depths of several metres, Scott not to harvest too much from the same area,” he tells
led us further offshore to begin ‘the hunt’. We snorkelled us. “It might be tempting but it’s not sustainable, for
through a changing ocean landscape: rocky walls, seagrass you or the ecology.”
beds and shallow reefs. We carted our harvest up the hill to Eden’s Rotary
The bay was teeming with marine life. On our two-hour Park lookout, to cook what we would go on to confidently
dive we encountered wobbegong sharks, eastern rock claim as the best meal of our lives. After two hours of
lobsters, black and red spined urchins, starfish, abalone, intense swimming and diving in the salty ocean we had
blue mussels and a variety of fish species. But only some worked up a healthy appetite and, as we readied lunch
of those are good eating, and we were after a meal. together, Scott demonstrated the best ways to prepare
The prized abalone hide in crevices, cementing and cook our catch.
themselves between the curves of rocks in the deep. We couldn’t believe the immense satisfaction and
The smaller ones are plentiful here in the bays of Eden, overall sense of wellbeing we gained from a single meal.
but the minimum legal size to keep is 11.7 centimetres, You haven’t tasted fresh until you’ve eaten seafood that
and finding the larger ones takes patience. What we were your own hands have plucked out of the ocean and thrown
really after were lobsters, and finding them is no easy feat. into the frypan in a matter of minutes. Our catch is paired
They’re extremely well camouflaged and surprisingly with a local sourdough from Wild Rye’s Baking Co in
strong. Scott’s well-trained eye spots them, lying low in Pambula and oysters fresh from the Merimbula leases.
the crayweed – given away only by their thin and reddish “It’s so important for me to support the local producers,”
antennae. A quick and agile grab secured them, and we kept Scott explains. “In this way, we’re working together.”
them in netted bags attached to our weight belts. Deeper Everything we ate for lunch came from the local region –
offshore we found mussel beds, easy enough to twist off the even the tomatoes were grown in Scott’s family’s backyard.
rocks – if you can hold your breath long enough to do so. At the end of our ocean-to-plate experience, our bodies
Between the three of us we bag two crayfish, four felt fit and full. In such a short amount of time we had
abalone and 40 mussels. Scott chats about the importance gained a skillset that could feed us for many meals to come,
of bag limits, encouraging you to take “just enough for and that is an invaluable experience.
DETAILS
Playing there
ACWA experiences are
available all year round. Sites
on the Sapphire Coast vary
between locations close to
Eden, Pambula, Merimbula,
Tathra and Bermagui. The
location for each dive is
selected by Scott to cater for
all levels of experience, and
are dependent on season,
weather and tides. The entire
experience lasts five to six
hours, so for $195 per
person and a smorgasbord
of fresh local seafood, a
bargain is an understatement.
acwadventures.com
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 77
CHE AP
& CHIC
THE CHALLENGE TO MAKE YOUR HIGH STYLE doesn’t always have to come with
TRAVEL DOLLARS STRETCH AS FAR
AS POSSIBLE C AN SEEM LIKE A LOT an exorbitant PRICE TAG. These hotels are
OF HARD WORK, TRAWLING
THROUGH ENDLESS WEBSITES all BIG ON LUXE but small in spend.
COMPARING PRICES TO SAVE
A FEW DOLLARS AT A TIME.
AND AFTER ALL THAT EFFORT,
WHO WANTS TO END UP IN A
DRAB BOX DEVOID OF PERSONALITY
JUST BEC AUSE IT’S CHEAP?
BUT THERE IS HOPE; SET WITH
THE CHALLENGE OF FINDING
HIGH-STYLE ROOMS AROUND
THE COUNTRY FOR A BUDGET-
FRIENDLY $250 PER NIGHT*,
WE WERE SPOILT FOR CHOICE.
THE PRINCE
MELBOURNE, VIC
This place was one of the original
boutique hotels in the city, and it
still has a cool-kid vibe thanks to
its minimalist interiors, its position
in the heart of St Kilda and the
reputation of its rock star eatery,
Circa (now a private dining and
events space). In the rooms you
will find clean lines cosied up with
colourful kilim rugs and layered
textures, as well as Philippe Starck
bathtubs in some bathrooms,
plus cute private balconies.
Special rates start at a tiny $195
per night. theprince.com.au
WEEKENDS | Cheap & chic
THE CHAPEL
BYRON B AY, NSW
The Chapel, part of the family-run
Byron Beach Abodes’ roster of boho
* P R I C E S CO R R E C T AT T I M E O F W R I T I N G
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 79
HOTEL PALISADE
SYDNEY, NSW
Sitting high on a hill in the historic Rocks neighbourhood, the
landmark Hotel Palisade received a full-treatment makeover
from hands-on super stylist Sibella Court, resulting in each of
the eight rooms possessing an irresistible eclectic style. Rooms
are named after colourful characters who frequented the
area in times gone by, with gorgeous hand-painted seascape
wall murals by artist Neil Mallard, an elegant colour palette
throughout, and some pretty fabulous Harbour Bridge views
from select rooms. Priced from $225. hotelpalisade.com
THE FRANKLIN
BOUTIQUE
HOTEL
ADELAIDE, SA
There are only seven rooms in this snug
boutique hotel in Adelaide’s inner-city
grid, but what the property lacks in size it
more than makes up for in personality.
Rooms are individually decorated in
soothing, darks shades, with colour
introduced through original artworks P H OTO G R A P H Y: N I K K I TO ( H OT E L PA L I S A D E )
OVOLO 1888
SYDNEY, NSW
Squeezed into an historic wool store (dating
from 1888, of course) in a busy, bustling part
of the city, Ovolo 1888 Darling Harbour
has room categories from the cheeky Shoe
Box to the generously proportioned Shaken
and Stirred suites, each dominated by one
of artist Jasper Knight’s bold, graphic murals.
The brand’s signature Lo Lounge offers up
a schmoozy space that is at guests’ disposal
to grab a coffee, do some work or relax. Rooms
can be had for under $200, which includes
breakfast and free mini bar. ovolohotels.com.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 81
QT GOLD COAST
GOLD COAST, QLD
The rehabilitation of the Gold Coast
as a holiday destination worth seeking
out was complete with the arrival of QT
Gold Coast. Boasting a ‘nostalgic surfer
chic meets Miami catwalk cool’ vibe, the
décor in each of the 297 rooms is light and
white, interspersed with playful punches
of citrus brights and island florals. And
while you’re in residence it is a must to
have at least one drink at Stingray, which
has become quite the bar to be seen in on
this flashy stretch of coastline. QT Kings
start at $225. qthotelsandresorts.com
COPPERSMITH
MELBOURNE, VIC
The architecturally designed Coppersmith
lends itself to living like a local, with its inner-
city South Melbourne locale and intimate
surrounds complete with a vibey bar, bistro
serving up local produce and a rooftop retreat
that is the place to be come sunset on a warm
summer’s evening. Each of the rooms is
individually decorated, with pieces from the
likes of Ross Gardam and Oak & Elm and lots
of soothing white contrasted with generous
P H OTO G R A P H Y: A N S O N S M A RT (A L E X H OT E L)
helpings of black. Ask about customising your
mini bar when you are booking. Queen rooms
start at $230. coppersmithhotel.com.au
WEEKENDS | Cheap & chic
ALEX HOTEL
PERTH, WA
This funky offering, along with the
slightly more grand COMO The
Treasury, have led the charge in
bolstering the ranks of stylish Perth
hotel offerings of late. The rooms,
which are categorised as small, medium,
large and x large (along with bunk and
family) are simple yet stylish with calm
interiors complete with punches of
colour and quirky retro fittings. The s
mall is a standard rate of $190, which
includes Italian linens, free movies,
Sodashi toiletries and breakfast; you
also have access to the hotel’s Living
Spaces, including the lovely Mezzanine
Lounge. alexhotel.com.au
NEXT HOTEL
BRISB ANE, QLD
As the name implies this burgeoning
brand takes hotels to the next level, with
ample techy inclusions, including in-room
Samsung Smart devices to make calls and
access wi-fi wherever you are; an app to
control the lights, temperature, Smart TV,
door locks and room service; and GHD
hair straighteners upon request. And
when you check out, you have access to
the hotel’s clever Transit Zone, complete
with state-of-the-art sleep pods that are
worth booking a late flight home just so
you can try them out. Priced from a very
modest $159 a night. nexthotels.com
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 83
GETAWAYS
lord howe . paronella park . tassie honey . sunshine coast . tasman peninsula . daylesford
M A RO O C H Y D O R E
This town at the heart of the Sunshine Coast
is undergoing a cultural awakening as a crop
of creative enterprises (from cafes and
breweries to night markets and festivals)
emerge, complementing its sunny, laid-back
culture swimmingly. See page 112.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: K A R A R O S E N L U N D
PA R A DI S E
in the
PA L M S
GETAWAYS | Lord Howe
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 87
The twin peaks of
Mount Gower and
Mount Lidgbird
rise as if from the
ocean as you approach
Lord Howe Island.
GETAWAYS | Lord Howe Island
Making their raucous return to roost for the evening, the rolls onto Lord Howe’s idyllic coast;
Rockpools don’t come much more
endemic Providence petrels of Lord Howe Island swarm as noisily
beautiful than this. OPPOSITE:
as tweenagers at a Bieber concert. But there’s another sound in the Clouds form curious discs around Lord
falling dusk that’s stirring these birds into greater frenzy. A woop- Howe’s twin peaks of Mount Gower
woop-woop seems to be emanating from my companions. Their and Mount Lidgbird.
hands clasped around their mouths to extend the sound, they call
the petrels from the sky. The birds oblige, awkwardly.
Elegant, capable and in complete control as they swoop and
glide above, on the ground it’s an entirely different story for the
Providence petrel. There’s no elegant landing for these stout, pigeon-
like creatures. Instead, responding to the call, they tumble out of the
sky like newspapers tossed haphazardly at a lawn by an indifferent
paperboy. A ‘thump’ indicates one has attempted a landing and a wait
ensues as you watch it struggle to propel its plump body through
shrubs and grass to investigate the ‘woop-woop-woop’. I witness one
LUKE HANSON (RIGHT)
struggling to free itself from a tuft of grass for a good five minutes.
It’s lucky these birds have no predators here (there are no snakes
or foxes on Lord Howe and dogs require a licence), because their
ungainly ineptitude on land and their curious, guileless nature is a
diabolical combination for longevity as a species. As it is, Lord Howe
is the only rookery for these birds in the world and their diminutive
population size makes them vulnerable. 1
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 89
We watch those who’ve responded to the call peck at our
shoelaces before we set off back through the kentia palm-fringed
track away from Little Island. The squawking dims behind us, but
the memory of this unfathomable and unique experience will not.
HEAD IN T H E CLOU D S
The twin peaks of Mount Gower and Mount Lidgbird rise as if from
the ocean as you approach Lord Howe Island. Hulking, green lumps,
they loom as though they harbour millennia of intrigue. It’s a fitting CLOCKWISE FROM
location for the lair of a Sean Connery-era Bond villain, or for a TOP LEFT: Surfers’
P I C O N E ( WA L K E R S ) , L A R A P I C O N E ( S TO N E B E AC H ) , L U K E H A N S O N (O P P O S I T E ) .
paradise at Ned’s Beach;
P H O T O G R A P H Y: L U K E H A N S O N ( N E D ’ S B E A C H ) , L A R A P I C O N E ( B O AT S ) , L A R A
superhero to convalesce following their latest universe-saving efforts.
Mount Gower looms large;
But perhaps what their sight most easily summons to the imagination Climb Lord Howe’s seven
is the Jurassic. peaks – one of the Great
My first impression of Mount Gower was that it seemed to glower Walks of Australia; Endemic
moodily in the distance, peering from beneath a fringe of mist, Providence petrels gather
in a squawking flock .
simultaneously daring you to approach and inviting you to f*** off. OPPOSITE: A walk
After a while, I began to see that while the mist gives the impression along a fringe reef at low
of warning, really Mount Gower just has its head in the clouds. The tide is a chance to admire
precipitation inspires a dream-like state, protecting its wildlife (like a rich pantheon of life.
the petrels) and cultivating the enigmatic mist forest that hikers brave
dizzying heights and sunstroke to marvel at.
At a formidable 867 metres, you can’t take it on without a licensed
guide. Even with one, you might find yourself weak-kneed and clinging
to craggy crevices in fear of the sheer cliffs. Perseverance is well-
rewarded with that fulfilling sense of self-satisfaction, so I’m told. As
someone who trembles like a just-hatched chicken at the thought of a
Ferris wheel, I wasn’t up to the challenge… this time.
Those not handicapped by vertigo can now climb all seven peaks
of Lord Howe Island, including Gower, as part of the Great Walks
of Australia. Partnering with luxury accommodation Pinetrees, you
can exhaust yourself over five days, retiring to pure comfort each
evening. The promise of a good bottle of wine at the end of a day’s
activities might just be enough to coax you up and down even the
most challenging of peaks. 1
GETAWAYS | Lord Howe Island
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 91
GETAWAYS | Lord Howe Island
THIS IMAGE:
Twenty-eight islands
make-up the Lord Howe
Island Group, a World
Heritage Site. OPPOSITE
(clockwise from top left):
Find your own secluded bay;
Clouds shroud Gower’s lost
world forest; Petrels gather to
roost; A Providence petrel
following a typically clumsy
landing; The island’s sheer
rock faces afford spectacular
views out to sea.
I returned to Pinetrees
P H O T O G R A P H Y: L A R A P I C O N E ( O P P O S I T E , B I R D S F A R R I G H T ) ,
exhausted each evening
N I K K I TO (B E AC H TO P LE F T ), LU K E H A N SO N (R E M A I N I N G)
with sticks in my hair and
mud up my shins, and I
loved every minute of it.
92 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
A H OM E AM ON G T H E PI N E S TripAdvisor’s number-one hotel in Australia for
Remember the feeling of holidays as a kid? The 2017, it’s obvious Pinetrees is adored. You need
sunshine days filled with adventures on bikes, only spend one night here to understand why the
minimal parental intervention and the feeling that lodge receives so many boomerang guests. It’s in
there were mysteries that only you and your new the attentive staff that welcome you like an old
mates could discover. Those friendships formed on friend, the sense of community, the incredible food,
the tennis court and common areas of the resort and simple but elegant rooms.
were extraordinary in their fleeting intensity. Part Once you meet Dani and Luke, the source of
school camp, part Lord of the Flies, you’d return to that culture is evident. Dani’s preternaturally calm
your parents at sundown with sticks in your hair, demeanour is complemented by her husband’s
mud caked up your shins and kids-only secrets puppy-like exuberance. Life has a perplexing way
behind your smile. You’d scoff down your dinner of altering your plans, and it was tragedy that
as quickly as possible to return to your intrigues led Dani to taking over the family business. Her
that seemed eternally important. brother, Harry, was in line to be the next Pinetrees
This nostalgia sweeps over me as I sit on the owner before his life was sadly cut short by a
dining patio at Pinetrees watching new arrivals motorbike accident on the island. After the death
shyly edge towards a group of two-day firm of her mother, Dani and Luke moved to Lord
friends. I’m here during school holidays and am Howe permanently, eventually buying out the
told there is a record number of children this remaining family and turning Pinetrees into the
week (usually the ratio of children to adults is kept success it is today.
to a minimum). But apart from at breakfast time, Dani couldn’t have found a better match with
you wouldn’t know it. Once the last cornflake is which to run the dynasty. As an ecologist and
swallowed, the kids scatter, leaving the adults to irrepressible outdoorsman, Luke’s love for the
enjoy a second coffee and plan their own adventure. island and its wildlife is joyfully relentless. Barely
Pinetrees has had five generations to perfect the half-an-hour after picking me up from the airport,
guest experience. Originally called The Pines, the Luke has me taking ‘a little walk’, which turns out
lodge first began taking guests in 1895. Since then, to be a hike up Malabar on the north end of the
it has passed down through family, modernising as island. By the end of my stay, I’d learnt to translate
it went, until it reached sixth-generation heir Dani Luke’s ‘little’ into ‘fairly sizeable’, and ‘not too
Rourke (daughter of island legend Pixie Rourke) hard’ to ‘significant effort’. I returned to Pinetrees
and her husband, Luke Hanson. exhausted each evening with sticks in my hair and
Any hotelier and restaurateur will tell you mud up my shins, and I loved every minute of it.
that the most imperative and difficult element
to get right in hospitality is culture. Culture U N D E RWAT E R L OV E
cascades from management, to staff, to guests. If The underworld of the lagoon is quiet. From
there’s a kink in the hose, nothing flows freely. As above the water, it’s hard to describe its beauty 1
The twins loom in the distance, reminding
you this isn’t some forgettable Pacific isle,
but a treasure of World-Heritage standing.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: L A R A P I C O N E ( M O U N TA I N L E F T ) , L U K E H A N S O N ( R E M A I N I N G )
GETAWAYS | Lord Howe Island
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT: Sunsets take on
an ethereal beauty; A
boat shed provides a
shady spot for an
afternoon drink ; A kentia
palm sets the scene at
Pinetrees; A craggy
place to pause on a hike.
OPPOSITE: Forest
tumbles off the slopes
of Mount Gower.
DETAILS
Getting there
Lord Howe Island is 600
kilometres directly east of Port
Macquarie. QantasLink flies to
the island from Sydney daily all
year round, and from Brisbane
on weekends. A seasonal weekly
service is also available from Port
Macquarie from February to June
without wandering into hyperbole. Cue dream down here. The corals are iridescent in soft and September to December.
sequence-like glassy water of that azure colour purples, blues and greens. The fish have been gifted Staying there
Italians are crazy about, white sands and incredibly the same madness. Disguised as a fish myself in Pinetrees offers beautiful, recently
green sub-tropical vegetation. The twins loom my wetsuit and flippers, I do my best to fit in with refurbished rooms, suites and
in the distance, reminding you this isn’t some the locals. I come face to face with some curious cottages. You can time your trip
forgettable Pacific isle, but a treasure of World- bookfish, tail a gang of many-spotted sweetlips, and with one of the special weeks
Heritage standing, in New South Wales, no less. count numerous parrot fish and double-headed organised by Pinetrees, such as
It’s like this through spring and summer, but wrasse. So peaceful and immersive is gliding over a wellness week with Charlotte
in winter, when the guests have gone and gusts the coral apartment blocks that make up snorkel Dodson or a food and wine
of wind pummel the waters, Luke says he barely site Erscott’s Hole that you could forget time. week. Pinetrees is closed from
even glances at it. It’s hard to imagine a steely, It seems irrelevant, except it’s not. I eventually the end of May to the beginning
unremarkable lagoon and I can’t say I care to. remember to pull my head out and check my of September each year.
Back to what lies beneath, though. Slipping bearings. I’m last back on the boat. pinetrees.com.au
below is like entering one of those souvenir snow Playing there
globes, the colours in the contained scene seeming RU N WAY U N - R E A DY There is an incredible amount
exaggerated and impossible. But, here in the I’m clutching two endemic kentia palms that I’ve to do from hikes, to fishing,
southernmost reef in the Pacific, the right currents bought from the airport cafeteria. Still today snorkelling and diving (these
make it possible, enabling more than 90 corals and considered the most beautiful palm in the world, can be organised through
500 fish species to live. I would like to say thrive, its exotic plumage was favoured in English parlours your accommodation). Have a
but reefs hinge on a delicate balance and the effect of the 1800s – an effect I intend to emulate in my go at calling down the Providence
of climate change on water temperature does city flat. I’m hoping my saplings will remind me of petrels at Little Island at dusk,
create a degree of anxiety about this reef’s future, plunging into the clear Herring Pools beyond Old hike to the mist forest on
even if less so than its northern counterparts. Gulch, or gliding amid fish at Ned’s Beach on this Mount Gower, or simply roll
Today, though, it’s as if a mad creative genius island paradise. I’m also hoping the hyper-colour out a towel and spend the
has been let loose with a pack of pastel highlighters imprint of this place will never fade from memory. day at Ned’s Beach.
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 95
R A IN FOR EST
A CASTLE built out of love in TROPICAL
UEENSLAND, Paronella Park is the
fairy-tale you’ve NEVER HEARD.
R OYA LT Y
WORDS STEVE MADGWICK P H OTO G R A P H Y E L I S E H A S S E Y
GETAWAYS | Paronella Park
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 97
CLOCKWISE FROM THIS
IMAGE: The park's creators
planted 7500 trees, plants and ferns
in the 1900s; The fanciful castle
was built with Spanish influence;
Mena Creek falls in full flow;
A splash of tropical colour.
98 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
GETAWAYS | Paronella Park
PLENTY OF PEOPLE SAID “no way, José” to ghost. Matilda had moved on (or was moved on,
José way before it was cool to say ‘no way, José’ as was the custom) and married off to the next
to people whose name isn’t José. These three ‘in line’. Tragedy? Not exactly. “No hay problema,”
simple words to not-so humble Spanish pastry said Matilda’s folks. “Why don’t you marry
chef José Paronella spurred him on to build a Margarita [Matilda’s younger sister] instead?”
fairy-tale castle in Queensland’s tropical scrub- And so it was… the newly-met newlyweds
turned-rainforest with the able assistance of his boomeranged to tropical Australia to realise
first love’s sister (more on that later). José’s regal visions, which had been fertilised
José immigrated to Australia from Catalonia in by tales of knights in shining armour, recited
1913 after hearing there was plenty of work going to him by Grandma Paronella.
on Sydney’s emergent railways. But his spirit However, don’t think for a minute that
and dreams were never going to be pinned down Paronella Park – designed in an eclectic style –
under the scheduled existence of labouring on was an entirely eccentric folly. The couple’s plan
the railroads. was not just to build a castle for themselves, but
With little English to speak of, barely lint lining an entire ‘pleasure garden’ for visitors, an adult
his pockets and a penchant for balmy weather, theme park, if you will, which opened for business
José headed north, way north, to Far North in 1935. Apparently José’s final inspiration was
Queensland, seeking adventure and a fortune the splendid waterfall bursting to life out of a
deep enough to finance his return to Spain for seasonally fulsome Mena Creek.
a (pre-arranged) marriage to his betrothed, Almost a century later, 500 to 600 souls
Matilda, and their subsequent journey back per day still wander the park’s trails, marvel at
to Australia. the strange architecture of the castle, a cottage
Unfortunately, José was so engrossed in his and the original grand staircase (complete with
own prosperity, buying and flipping land from portentous flood markers). This is not just
the proceeds of his cane cutter’s wage, that he a testament to the shared vision of José and
neglected to write home to update Matilda and Margarita, but also to the current king and queen
family of his plans. Actually ‘neglected’ doesn’t of the castle, owners Mark and Judy Evans.
quite cover it. José did not contact home for The tree-changers slogged it out in the computer
12 years. While he fostered a dream to build a industry for three decades before buying and
Spanish castillo in the tropical surrounds of Mena restoring the (then) sickly park in the mid-’90s.
Creek, Matilda and her parents sat waiting; “We came in not knowing much about the area,
patiently. Oh, how they waited. especially about cyclones and floods, which was
Finally, José decided that he had fulfilled his probably a good thing,” says Mark, so excited he’s
ultra-eligible bachelor criteria and headed on almost yelling. He’s the talker, Judy the brains,
the slow boat back home, his eyes on the bride. he jokes. “We drove for 18 months around Oz
Unfortunately, Matilda’s parents, not knowing in a caravan looking for business opportunities
whether José was dead or alive, had given up the that were ‘something different’. We looked 1
at places like Rainbow World. Thankfully, Judy wasn’t
so excited about that one.” While in Cairns, almost
by accident, they heard second-hand accounts of the
outlandish castle in the rainforest. “When I saw it, it took
my breath away. How could I possibly not know about this
place? We walked through the park and didn’t even talk.
We just had to put in an offer.”
Mark and Judy realised that it was going to be a
challenge to get Paronella fully operational, but “that was
part of the mystery”. Unfortunately, their bank manager
didn’t quite embrace the mystery, initially refusing them a
loan. That was until the banker’s wife persuaded him that
the Evanses were indeed a visionary young couple. Grand black-tie events energised the lower CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT:
Incredibly, they bought the park without knowing its refreshment room (even when the tropical
José and Margarita
rich backstory; only enlightened after José and Margarita’s temperatures were high and humidity stifling). transformed five acres
daughter (70 at the time) turned up soon after the sale Margarita would serve Catalan dishes while a live jazz of scrub into a genuine
and offered them her insider’s tour. They found out how band played on the castle’s roof. rainforest; José poured
the concrete for the
José had amassed the equivalent of $1.5 million from his Impish kids would steal pennies from the wishing
buildings himself;
toils and dealings and sank it into the project, which took well to pay for a treat from the ice-cream shop. Canny Take time to explore
six arduous years to complete. Margarita cottoned on; fishing an eel out of the creek, the park’s trails;
José would pour concrete for 20 straight hours, and putting it in the well, along with a sign: ‘Electric Eel’. Nature has reclaimed
the buildings; Paronella
between them they planted more than 7500 plants, The larceny more or less ceased after that.
Park opened in 1935.
trees and ferns, effectively transmuting five hectares of Sadly, fire gutted the ballroom back in the ’70s,
scrub into genuine rainforest (the forest has doubled as incinerating not just the stunning polished wooden
the Panama jungle in the 1993 film Sniper. It was also floors and gold-trimmed curtains, but many of
considered as a set for the fifth Pirates of the Caribbean). the mid-20th century collectables too, such as a
While the concrete castle started out as José’s prophecy, 1200-piece diamond-cut mirror ball, which cost £49
Margarita was undoubtedly ‘the rock’ behind Paronella back in the day (the whole park originally cost the
Park’s realisation. And so it was built, and so they came… couple around £120).
locals revelled and celebrated life and their limited In many ways, Paronella Park was ahead of
leisure time in the tea gardens or in the cafe by the pool, its time, featuring one of Australia’s first hydro-
sometimes with a game or three of bocce. electric projects, which supplied power to the park
GETAWAYS | Paronella Park
DETAILS
(it’s working again now). The fountains are So while the micro-bat strewn Tunnel of Love
gravity-fed and the original construction was lies closed, in need of some structural love, and
accidentally eco-friendly; with many of the you can’t swim under the main falls anymore, Getting there
building products sourced locally, from the clay thanks to a couple of saltwater crocs who visit Find the park at 671 Japoon Road
and sand to the use of abandoned railway tracks from time to time, thousands of punters a week (Old Bruce Highway), around
for structural reinforcement. revel in the park’s folklore. Mark and Judy see the 20 kilometres south of Innisfail.
After a lot of elbow grease and a few setbacks park as a work of art, maintaining and preserving Playing there
(including a pasting by Cyclone Larry in 2006), it, with big plans afoot too – watch this space. Entry is $45 for adults, $24 for
the park lives large again, more an attraction for Naturally, Paronella is a popular wedding children or $128 for two adults
its kitschy moss-covered history, its five-hectare hotspot (hosting about 15 a year) plus there’s and two children. Day visits don't
rainforest setting and its sheer ‘who knew this was about one proposal a week too (they’ll leave require pre-booking, but book
here?’ factor than a pleasure garden these days. the waterfall lights on if you ask nicely). Perhaps ahead for a night tour.
On The Darkness Falls Tour, torch in hand, visitors are trying to channel the spirit, the Eating there
Paronella would be a sublime setting for a horror unrestrained joie de vivre from another aeon, Eat at the park's cafe, or head just
film. The creepily lit moss-covered structures or perhaps the love of José and Margarita itself. up the road for a pub meal on the
assume an entirely altered personality and the “Some people say there’s a presence here,” verandah of Mena Creek Hotel.
trails offer nocturnal bounties to the curious; says Mark. “Once, after dark, I heard people Staying there
turn off the torch and search for glowing fungus talking and looked around and no one was there. The park has six basic cabins for
and fireflies among the sky-high karri pines and I don’t believe in spirits… but there is something.” hire, plus a caravan and camping
undergrowth (at the right time of year). A haunted castle? No way, José. ground. paronellapark.com.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 101
LET
IT
BEE
GETAWAYS | Tasmanian honey
W O R D S DAV I D L E V E L L P H OTO G R A P H Y B R O O K J A M E S
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 103
“Leatherwood has a wonderful floral
bouquet. It’s quite a challenging,
sophisticated flavour: spicy and complex.
Like oysters and opera, it’s a bit of an
acquired taste.”
GETAWAYS | Tasmanian honey
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 105
THIS IMAGE: Lake Rosebery at
Tullah, close to some of Julian
Wolfhagen’s hive sites.
OPPOSITE (clockwise from top
left): Unlike other trees, leatherwood
can’t recover from bushfire; Frames
are inspected; Honeybees arrived in
Tasmania with British colonists;
Bees forage leatherwood for nectar
within a three-kilometre range;
‘Supers’ full of honeycomb are
loaded onto a truck .
out in complete nature – there’s no better place,” aren’t lost; at season’s end the hives are trucked
says Julian. “And working in a symbiotic relationship home overnight. The honey is guaranteed to be
with an insect is a pretty cool thing to do. I love bees. leatherwood, I’m told, being the only tree flowering
There’s always something new to learn and they’re this time of year (February).
only doing good, pollinating plants.” Once pointed out, leatherwood in bloom is
We’ve just driven the B28, Tasmania’s most wildly unmistakable: white flowers peppering the thick
scenic road. Stark mountains studded with pink forest like summer snowdrops. It’s actually two
rocks loom roadside; cobalt lakes are framed by more Eucryphia species (lucida and milliganii), both unique
distant peaks. But as much as Julian’s beekeepers to Tasmania, although a South American relative
relish being here, nobody’s standing around named ulmo also yields a distinctive honey. “It tastes
rhapsodising (except me; that’s my job). Six men, somewhat similar,” says Julian. “But not the same,
16 hives and up to 1.3 million bees add up to furious fortunately – not quite as good!”
activity – especially from the bees. Looking like a Although leatherwood dates to dinosaur days,
chest of drawers from Vinnies, a beehive is basically its native pollinators are non-hiving insects such
a stack of white wooden boxes, each containing eight as march flies. Honeybees reached Tasmania with
to 10 frames that the bees fill with honeycomb. British colonists, but leatherwood wasn’t targeted
The lowest two boxes are for the bees. The others before West Coast settlement blossomed with
(‘supers’) are ours. The bees don’t necessarily agree, mining just over a century ago. And the business only
so smokers packed with burning pine needles are truly got underway in the mid-20th century, when
puffed liberally as a calm-bee-down during collection. new roads gave forest access to hive trucks. In other
Their most obvious vexation is ‘bee bouncing’ – words, it’s a taste 70 million years in the making.
whacking supers against metal frames to jolt out the
thousands inside in a bee-wildered clump. This is H E A D I N G TO T H E H I L L S
a vital prelude to checking frames for honeycomb, In the north-west, sleepy Mawbanna is tucked
loading the truck with full supers and putting 14 kilometres inland between coastal Burnie and
empties on the hives. Back at base the honey is Smithton. The road twists through forest before
extracted by centrifuge, filtered and bottled. opening onto vistas of rolling hills and a horizon
Beekeepers lease sites from land managers such as garlanded by the blueish peaks that inspired
Forestry Tasmania and the Parks & Wildlife Service. Robbie Charles’ father, Rueben, when he founded
Hives are left alone for a couple of weeks while the Blue Hills Honey in 1955.
bees forage for nectar, ranging as far as maybe three “Dad was the first to export leatherwood to
kilometres. Their innate navigational genius and Japan, back in the early ’60s,” says Robbie, who
habit of spending nights in the hive ensure they made a beeline to the family business from school. 1
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 107
“The Savage River pipeline opened in ’67 and that’s our Railway, which third-generation apiary R. Stephens
biggest area now. We run, probably, 1000 hives there.” uses to get hives into forest outside Strahan.
Blue Hills are the northernmost of the six main firms, Unlike other trees, leatherwood can’t recover from
with 1800 hives across the Tarkine wilderness. “Our bushfire. Every burn whittles down reserves, and 2016
leatherwood has a really soft finish,” says Nicola Charles, was a shocker, with 72,000 hectares razed in the north-
Robbie’s wife and Blue Hills’ manager. “Each region has west and Blue Hills evacuated. Given this, it seems
its own profile; we think our pH is a bit more neutral than incredible that leatherwood isn’t a protected species,
some of the other leatherwoods. You do get terroir.” but it’s still extensively logged – mostly as eucalypt
You get big variations in output, too; Mother Nature bycatch. “We used to run 1000 hives within 10 miles
is a fickle business partner. A cold, wet or windy summer of Mawbanna and it all got logged out,” Robbie says.
– hello, 2017 – plays havoc with supply. Bees don’t forage “Once they clear-fell and burn it, leatherwood doesn’t
in the rain, or fly much below 15ºC, and leatherwood regenerate. Rather than being a mixed forest, they turn
needs about 20ºC to flower. it into a dry eucalypt forest. Then when there’s a fire they
“This is the nicest day we’ve had for three weeks,” wonder why it all burns. They change the whole ecology
says Robbie, glad to see sunshine as he works his hives. of the place.”
“If we’d had this weather before we would have a lot of This has wider implications than the survival of a
honey by now. What we’ve got now is about half a crop, boutique industry. As Tasmania’s richest and most reliable
but another fortnight like this and they might fill again.” nectar flow, leatherwood sustains the bees that underpin
Weather isn’t the only challenge. “There’s been a lot the state’s entire pollination-dependent agriculture.
of leatherwood territory lost over the years,” says Nicola. And supply will never be secured by plantations, because
“Some areas are difficult to get to. Bridges have washed leatherwood needs a century or so to yield a productive
out in flood and we’ve had to fly bees in.” Other novel nectar flow. As Julian says, “People who invest money like
solutions include the touristic West Coast Wilderness to get a return while they’re still alive.” 1
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT: Leatherwood is
endemic to Tasmania;
The honey industry began in
the mid-20th century when
new roads gave forest access
to hive trucks; A frame drips
with bees and honeycomb;
A beekeeper tending to a hive;
On closer inspection.
GETAWAYS | Tasmanian honey
As Tasmania’s richest
and most reliable nectar
flow, leatherwood
sustains the bees that
underpin the state’s entire
pollination-dependent
agriculture.
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 109
With leatherwood
a wild resource, profound
understanding of its home
range is paramount.
GETAWAYS | Tasmanian honey
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT: Beekeepers check on
leatherwood blooms near
hives in the Tyndall Range
area; Visit the Melita
Honey Farm in Chudleigh;
Julian Wolfhagen, founder
of the Tasmanian Honey
Company; Frames filled
with honeycomb.
OPPOSITE: A hive of
activity at a Tasmanian
Honey Company site.
DETAILS
With leatherwood a wild resource, profound
understanding of its home range is paramount.
“Every site is a different microclimate, which affects MELITA HONE Y FA R M
the rate bees collect,” says Anthony van Bohemen, Tasmania’s top honey ‘cellar door’.
one of Julian’s beekeepers. “Bees are sensitive to slight Honey galore, and the honey
variations of temperature and it takes time to learn the ice-cream repays an hour’s drive
personality of each area.” from Launceston. 33-39 Sorell
“I spend a lot of time driving, just looking at the Street, Chudleigh;
environment,” Julian considers. “You really have to know melitahoneyfarm.com.au
your country and look at the trees and understand botany, B LUE HILLS HO N E Y
weather patterns, and be able to know where honey will be.” A small shop, with plans to add
We can only hope there’ll always be enough leatherwood tours. 1858 Mawbanna Road,
trees for Tasmania’s beekeepers to keep on knowing where Mawbanna; bluehillshoney.com
honey will be. Even if we can never know the West Coast TASMA NIA N H O N E Y CO M PA N Y
as deeply, our appreciation of its natural wonders can be Visit the gift store and enjoy
as heartfelt. And nothing enhances that appreciation like tastings; just 18 kilometres south
tasting the produce that speaks of this wild, pure country of Launceston. 25a Main Road,
most truly, most deeply, most sweetly. Perth; tasmanianhoney.com
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 111
E V E RY B O DY
LOV E S T H E
SUNSHINE
There’s a CREATIVE
UNDERCURRENT changing the face
of the SUNSHINE COAST.
We DIAL IN to find its EPICENTRE.
WO R D S C E L E S T E M I T C H E L L P H OTO G R A P H Y K A R A R O S E N L U N D
GETAWAYS | Sunshine Coast
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 113
A LOT CAN HAPPEN in five years. It feels like only yesterday that
there were no late-night music venues on the Sunshine Coast, and
locating a cafe that didn’t belong to a franchise was an impossible
mission. The Maroochydore CBD was in the doldrums and visitors
to the coast were mostly operating on autopilot, driving straight to
Noosa’s golden sands.
Trying to find a restaurant with any atmosphere, or being seated
after 7pm, was also a challenge. The heart of the coast was equally
blessed and cursed, with local surf clubs and fish and chip shops still
retaining much of the holiday romance – and patronage – that has
kept the place kicking since the Sunshine Coast was officially given
its sunny moniker 50 years ago.
That’s all changed – and the catalyst was a brownie. Three years
ago, baker Alita Johnson put the finishing touches on one of her
cakes and placed it on the counter of the beautiful new cafe-cum-
photographic gallery she had just opened with partner Matthew
O’Brien on Maroochydore’s Ocean Street. Instagram went into
meltdown. The sheer creativity lavished onto the top of each of
her mini brownies and baked cheesecakes – swirls of frosting, edible
petals, crunchy macadamia praline and drippy caramel – at TOME
were unmatched by even the most fervent sweet tooth’s fantasy.
Monthly night markets had started up a year before on Ocean
Street, too – the passion project of local not-for-profit, the
Maroochydore Revitalisation Association (MRA) – to inject some
life back into the CBD. So, fuelled by sugar, pop-up bars, and the
opportunity to embrace life after dark with two hands, locals and
visitors to the coast sat up and started paying attention.
“I think the coast has found the value in creativity,” says James
Birrell, director of Maroochy Music and Visual Arts Festival
(MMVAF) and vice president of the MRA. “Over the last five years 1
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 115
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Surfboards for
sale; Straight from the surf at Maroochydore Beach;
Sundown over Cotton Tree Beach; Grab some Mexican
street food at La Canteena on Ocean Street; Low tide at
Alex Heads. OPPOSITE: An evening surf at
Maroochydore Beach.
GETAWAYS | Sunshine Coast
we’ve gone from [being] a place with nothing to includes dishes like okonomiyaki pancakes with
do to a place where we’re spoiled for choice.” pork belly for breakfast] and walk away,” she says.
While on one hand the Sunshine Coast “They wouldn’t even give it a go, just because
is all about sun, surf and sand, clean eating, we didn’t want to do bacon and eggs. It was quite
SUP yoga, and farmers’ markets, on the other, heart-wrenching at the start, but I just didn’t see
you’ll find chic new whisky bars, local craft the point in doing something everyone else was
breweries, and underground live music venues doing, and I still don’t.”
all contributing to a new creative undercurrent, Creating mini destinations within the coast –
driven by young entrepreneurs. away from the tourist strips of Mooloolaba and
Events like MMVAF and the Big Pineapple Noosa – is what businesses like Little Boat do
Festival – a music festival in the grounds of that best, and when Sara and her business partner,
iconic ’80s ‘big thing’ – have put creativity back Leon Russell, opened sister cafe, Winnie, in the
on centre stage, and the core of the Sunshine Coast under-the-radar town of Woombye in February
back on the radar for travellers. this year, it didn’t take long for word to spread.
“People are craving experience and I think “On the weekends we get smashed with people
events are developing and jumping onto whatever from Brisbane coming up for day trips,” says Sara.
experiences are in vogue,” says James. “We’re really “I guess because it looks cute!”
trying to put the visual arts on the same pedestal The upside of the renewed energy and creativity
as the music, which is difficult as the audience is just bubbling away on the coast is the sense of pride
used to going to a music festival.” that emanates from these businesses, and in turn
Sara Dillon, co-owner of Little Boat Espresso, prompts more young locals to have a go. “Rather
faced a similar challenge when she first opened her than people moving away, which we’ve thought
Marcoola cafe. “It took ages for people to change. about as well, now I feel like I should stay here
I mean, people would just look at our menu [which and build something,” Sara continues. 1
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 117
Building a platform to showcase the Sunshine Coast’s surf history
was one of the underlying motivations for Mitch Surman when he
and partner Brydie Blackburn (along with friends who have since
sold their share) opened Glass Coffee House & Surf Gallery in
Cotton Tree in late 2014. Here, salty-haired patrons congregate
under umbrellas out the front or munch on avocado toast inside,
surrounded by surf paraphernalia. “I don’t always get time to tell
people why the boards are in the roof,” says Mitch. “But because we
have a lot of those boards – one of my friends is a collector – we’re
able to showcase what was made back then.
“There’s such a rich history in surfboard design, and surfboards
in general, on the coast that I wanted to showcase that and pass
it on.” But it’s not just the old logs on display – Mitch is also a
surfboard shaper, inspired by those who came before him and
making his own stamp on the industry with his MS Surfboards
creations; lined up like nine-foot pieces of art inside the cafe.
Dreamy surf photography by close friend Sebastian Robison
adorns the walls in large white frames.
Having a place to display their wares was also the driving force
for the boys behind local craft beer label, Your Mates Brewing Co. CLOCKWISE FROM
Matt Hepburn and Christen McGarry quit their jobs in 2013 TOP LEFT: Fresh from
the waves at Alex Heads;
and officially launched Your Mates out of a Moffat Beach shed in
A salty-haired local;
2015. Since then they’ve sold over 30,000 litres of beer and in An Instagram-able cake
September last year they seized the opportunity to expand their from TOME; Excellent
brewing empire in a disused storeroom to Nambour. Bear Bones Espresso
coffee at TOME.
What was once the thriving epicentre of the coast in the 1920s,
OPPOSITE: Soak up
the old sugarcane town suffered a stigma for years until creatives some holiday vibes at
blew out the cobwebs and started opening quirky bars, live music 1 Alexandra Headlands.
GETAWAYS | Sunshine Coast
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 119
“I think a lot of people have understood
that if they express themselves creatively
it helps define the identity of the coast.”
GETAWAYS | Sunshine Coast
CLOCKWISE DETAILS
FROM LEFT:
Co-owner of Little Boat
Espresso and Winnie,
Sara Dillon; Winnie has
Getting there
become a destination cafe Maroochydore is a 90-minute
for Brisbane daytrippers; drive from Brisbane. There are
Beachside living in Alex direct flights to the Sunshine Coast
Heads; A light
installation at MMVAF;
Airport in Maroochydore from
An Ocean Street mural; Sydney, Melbourne and Adelaide.
OPPOSITE: Nice
night for it: dog walking Staying there
on Maroochydore Beach.
TOP SPOT MOT E L A classic
low-line motel close to the
action. topspotmotel.com.au
B REEZE MOOL O O L A B A Luxury
resort with hinterland or ocean
views. breezemooloolaba.com.au
RIVERSHORE Glamp by the
Maroochy River at Big4 Rivershore
Resort. rivershore.com.au
Eating there
TOME Arrive too late and risk
missing out on one of TOME’s
utterly Instagram-able cakes.
facebook.com/tome.cake.coffee
W INNIE A 15-minute drive from
Maroochydore. facebook.com/
winniewoombye
GLA SS COFFE E H O USE & SUR F
GA LLERY For coffee, food and
venues, wholefood cafes and co-working spaces. sleek boards by MS Surfboards.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: H AY L E Y J E N K I N ( W I N N I E ) ; M I T C H L O W E ( M M VA F )
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 121
REPLENISH ,
EAT AND
R EPE AT
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 123
City dodgers, mostly from Melbourne,
bring with them a pulsating energy and
enthusiasm for their adopted home.
GETAWAYS | Daylesford
CLOCKWISE
FROM LEFT: Lake
House is designed for
leisure; Choose your
tipple at Wine and the
Country. OPPOSITE:
Take your time to
explore the grounds of
Lake House, including
its beautiful namesake.
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 125
Daylesford. Although, you may not make the cut:
“Every plant in my garden has to be spectacular for
it to be here,” says the woman who calls herself a
‘place maker’. Formerly an architect and landscape
architect, Natasha is now, essentially, a creator of
beauty. Her wonderland-style garden and achingly
perfect white wooden home (once a post office)
makes one’s own dwellings seem frightfully mediocre.
When I arrive, the lovely, pixie-faced Natasha is
making a pork roast for a bunch of people who are less; such is the elegant symphony of flavours that
learning to make a dry stone wall in her backyard. The entertain our palates throughout the tasting menu
students get the knowledge, Natasha gets a wall and of such things as tempura of Moreton Bay bug in
CLOCKWISE
everyone gets a pork lunch (with bubbly crackling). nori, and signature smoked eel in pancetta. A gin and FROM TOP
It’s just one of the workshops she runs from her tonic with a glassy round of candied cumquat reminds LEFT: The road to
exquisite property. If you don’t have anywhere to me of Natasha’s elderflower cordial. Wombat Hill Botanic
build a wall in your urban life, you can also learn, You could come here just to delight in the award- Gardens; A luxurious
bedroom at Lake
among other things, the arts of shibori, garden design, winning restaurant and marvel at the achievement of House; Lunch at
fermenting, and carving in stone. revered chef Alla and her pure tenacity, which, over Wombat Hill House;
Natasha leads me outside where her gorgeous four decades, has turned what was once just a creek Regional wines at
garden gives way to a forest behind. She shows me with a Chinese market garden on its banks into a Wine and the
Country; Art lines
the nissen hut and shipping container she is preparing location of astounding beauty. But you’d miss half the the walls of The
to turn into accommodation and I make a mental note experience, because staying here is bucket-list worthy. Convent; Allan Wolf-
to return when they’re up and running. Take your time to explore the grounds. Stroll the Tasker in his studio;
Before I reluctantly leave, Natasha bundles her manmade lake and watch the mist rise from the water Belvedere Social.
homemade cordials into my arms and advises me in the early morning, admiring the stringy barks,
to make an elderflower gin and tonic. The three silverbirch and old varieties of fruit trees. Visit artist
large bottles make for slightly awkward carry-on, (and Alla’s husband) Allan’s studio on the property.
but turn out to be entirely worth it. And, of course, in the wellness capital of the country,
enjoy a treatment at the on-site Salus spa.
PERFECT THE ART OF LEISURE AT LAKE HOUSE If you’re feeling gold rush-style flush, spring for
A pre-dinner note by culinary director Alla the Atrium Villa and pretty much emerge only for
Wolf-Tasker confirms that spring has come late to dinner. Everything you need to languish in a robe
Daylesford. For this reason the produce on the Lake for a large part of the day is here: a fireplace, plenty
House menu, which the restaurateur proudly sources of books, a deep bath, wine and whisky (probably
locally, lingers somewhat in winter. We couldn’t care don’t combine those last three).
GETAWAYS | Daylesford
DETAILS
Getting there
Daylesford is a one hour and
40 minute-drive north-west
of Melbourne.
Staying there
LAKE HOU SE
CLOCKWISE You can’t beat a stay at
FROM TOP LEFT: Alla Wolf-Tasker’s delightful
Spectacular blooms at
Oak and Monkey Puzzle; property, with its gorgeous
Walk around pretty Lake grounds and award-winning
Daylesford; Stroll the restaurant. lakehouse.com.au
grounds of The Convent;
Daylesford’s grand old
street frontage. Playing there
OAK AND MONKEY PUZZLE
Take a class in anything from
dry stone walling to shibori at
Natasha Morgan’s property.
natashamorgan.com.au
THE CONV E N T
Three levels of art in a
19th-century mansion, with
a cafe and leafy surrounds.
DON’ T STOP WIT H T H E FO O D AN D WI N E TA K E A WA L K O N A N E X T I N C T VO L C A N O conventgallery.com.au
Of course, now you’ve eaten at Lake House you Long after the site ceased being a volcano, the
might not see the point in any further culinary manicured and well-tended Wombat Hill Botanical Dining there
C A I R N S ( A L L A N W O L F -TA S K E R ) , R O B E R T H O C K ( T H E C O N V E N T )
pursuits. But, this will pass, and must, because Gardens were established in 1863. The dome- WOMB AT H I L L H O USE
B O TA N I C G A R D E N S A N D O A K A N D M O N K E Y P U Z Z L E ) , S H A RY N
Daylesford has a lovely selection of places to shaped gardens look down on Daylesford but if As well as dining at Lake
P H O T O G R A P H Y: L A R A P I C O N E ( L E A F Y R O A D , W O M B AT H I L L
enjoy a meal. you feel like a loftier viewpoint, clamber up the House, stop into Alla’s other
Belvedere Social, on Vincent Street, is a good Pioneers’ Memorial Tower (built in 1938) to see lovely eatery in the Wombat
place to reflect on what gold rush-era Daylesford the town in miniature. Having made such strenuous Hill Botanic Gardens.
might have been like, and then to decide that 21st efforts, rewards await at Wombat Hill House store wombathillhouse.com.au
century Daylesford, where you can spend a lazy and cafe, which happens to be another Alla Wolf- B ELVEDERE SO CI A L
few hours with a bottle of Punt Road gamay, is Tasker-run eatery. Enjoy a produce-driven menu
probably much better. Pair it with a bowl of mussels Mosey on for a stroll through The Convent. This and craft cocktail list at this
and beef carpaccio and your afternoon is made. gorgeous 19th century mansion was initially built central Daylesford location.
Because wine and the country complement as a private residence but was later bought by the belvederesocial.com.au
each other so well, some clever people have Catholic Church and filled with nuns. Today the
opened a bottleshop where you can drink nuns are long gone and in their place is a gallery, Drinking there
your purchase on the premises. Wine and the a cafe, and a steady procession of brides come THE W INE A N D T H E
Country sells regional wines, gin and vermouth wedding season. COUNTRY
and has a small cabinet of local cheese and other Inhale the scents of the garden, filling your Drink your purchase on
morsels. It’s handily located very close to Lake lungs with country air, which seems particularly the premises or enjoy in
House, just make sure you take it easy crossing restorative in Daylesford, before heading back to the nearby comfort of
the road if you’ve sampled your purchases city life with a blueprint for your own tree change your Lake House digs.
somewhat liberally. taking shape. wineandthecountry.com.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 127
C
O
A C
S L
T I
A M
L P H O T O G R A P H Y: S E A N S C O T T ( M A I N I M A G E )
E
An aerial view of
Tasman Island and its
lighthouse, which sits off
the tip of Cape Pillar.
S
GETAWAYS | Tasman Peninsula
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 129
The waters are ripe for wildlife
spotting: albatross, sea eagles and
colonies of fur seals populate the area.
130 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
GETAWAYS | Tasman Peninsula
– it’s a cruise. Which will suit this rookie fine; a fact that day
one’s uphill challenges soon makes clear.
We spend the first morning visiting Port Arthur before
heading to nearby Fortescue Bay, where our guides Pip 1
IMOGEN EVESON (ALL REMAINING)
CLOCKWISE FROM and Will prepare a picnic lunch. It’s a peaceful spot that
TOP: A jet-powered boat marks the start of the day’s nine-kilometre loop, where bush
rides the choppy waters;
Saying hello to a Bennett’s fringes a crescent of sand and still water, and a Bennett’s
wallaby at the start of the wallaby says hello – lingering conspicuously while we
J O U R N E Y S ( TA S M A N I S L A N D C R U I S E ) ; TA S M A N I A P A R K S A N D W I L D L I F E
Cape Hauy track ; A view of eat. We pause for long enough to breathe in the air: that
the penitentiary at Port distinctively Tasmanian-grade oxygen that leaves eyes
Arthur. OPPOSITE:
P H O T O G R A P H Y: T O U R I S M TA S M A N I A & P E N N I C O T T W I L D E R N E S S
The shimmering waters brighter and spirits higher. As we start winding our way
S E R V I C E ( F O R T E S C U E B AY ) ; I M O G E N E V E S O N ( A L L R E M A I N I N G )
of Fortescue Bay. towards the cape, the air becomes spiked with aromatics:
a tessellation of eucalyptus, heath and pine. The sun beats
down through the gaps it can find in the overstory and the
track’s ups and downs reward with glimpses back to the
shimmering bay, or dramatic views of the ancient coastline.
The 180 million-year-old dolerite columns and cliffs
that characterise Cape Hauy and much of the Tasmanian
landscape itself make this a popular area for climbing and
abseiling. Upon reaching the cape we get vertigo simply from
looking at the slender sea stacks that shoot from the ocean
just metres from the cliff-edge: the so-called ‘Candlestick’
and ‘Totem Pole’ are catnip for daredevil climbers.
Back at Fortescue Bay, we are shuttled to our home for
the next two nights; a homey B&B with a large wraparound
verandah overlooking the peaceful Little Norfolk Bay.
With five guest bedrooms, a dining room and a cosy living
room, it’s comfortable, inviting and a little quirky.
In the morning, our resident hosts Lorella and Lynton
cook a buffet breakfast in their big country kitchen: 1
GETAWAYS | Tasman Peninsula
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 133
The track’s ups and downs reward with
glimpses back to the shimmering bay, or
dramatic views of the ancient coastline.
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT: Bush meets sea (and a
sliver of sand) at Fortescue
Bay; Dolerite columns, the
‘Totem Pole’ and ‘Candlestick’,
at Cape Hauy; Heritage B&B
accommodation; A long way
down – reaching the tip of
Cape Raoul; Pink mountain
berries; The coastline viewed
from the Cape Hauy track .
& P E N N I C O T T W I L D E R N E S S J O U R N E Y S ( TA S M A N I S L A N D C R U I S E ) ;
( F O R T E S C U E B AY A N D M O U N TA I N B E R R I E S ) ; T O U R I S M TA S M A N I A
T O U R I S M TA S M A N I A & LY N T O N B R O W N ( B & B ) ; I M O G E N E V E S O N
a hearty and delicious spread that includes cereals, breads, yellow – marks a natural pause in the landscape and, while all is
P H O T O G R A P H Y: TA S M A N I A P A R K S A N D W I L D L I F E S E R V I C E
preserved and fresh fruit, soft boiled eggs and compotes made calm today, you’ll often find it surrendered to the intense winds
with fruit from their orchard garden. We make sandwiches and that Cape Raoul is known for; some of the strongest in Australia
wraps from the ingredients our guides have prepared and tuck have been recorded here.
them into our daypacks ready for the walk ahead to Cape Raoul. Our guides provide great lessons in both the Tasmanian bush
Cape Raoul is one of the namesake ‘Three Capes’ – but as and common sense: “shout out if you start to feel any hot spots
it is not yet linked to the official track (construction work is on your feet”, Pip had said before we started out. Three hours
underway for this extension), walkers on the Three Capes Track in, I do, and she swiftly produces a bandage that prevents it from
can currently only view it from a distance. Which is a shame for turning into a blister. The pair point out yellow-tailed black
them, because it’s gorgeous: a 14-kilometre round trip through cockatoos and green rosellas, as well as edible and not-so edible
tall stringybark forest, old she-oak woodland and coastal banksia bush foods: we taste mountain berries – bright pink, high in
scrub, with moments of great beauty and drama unfolding on the vitamin C and bittersweet – but leave the gleaming purple apple
way. The first of these comes after a steady ascent: the bush falls berries to dangle on their stalks. Conversations among the group
away to reveal a panorama of primordial cliffs and Cape Raoul inspire talk of other hikes in Australia and around the world:
(ALL REMAINING)
itself stretching out into the ocean. We sight world-renowned “The more you walk the more you discover how much there is
big wave surfing spot Shipstern Bluff and, not too far off on to walk,” Pip says. We’re travelling with Tasmanian Expeditions,
the horizon, Bruny Island. Walkers who venture here during whose dynamic guides shepherd small groups of hikers on all
spring and autumn might also spot migrating whales. A plateau manner of trails through the Tasmanian wilderness, including
daubed with coastal heaths and dwarf banksias – capped pink and the more challenging Overland and South Coast tracks. Pip’s
GETAWAYS | Tasman Peninsula
WHEN TO GO
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 135
FROM TOP: An
aerial view of the HOW TO TRAIN
stunning Cape Hauy;
Walking a section of the
Three Capes Track . The more effort you put into
training in the time leading
up to your trip, the more you
will enjoy your experience.
“Trek training is more than
depends on the day’s weather and wind conditions. completely to the wind: maybe next time. After just walking,” Oscar Bedford,
The waters are ripe for wildlife-spotting: albatross all, the more you walk the more you want to walk. a Tasmania Expeditions guide,
and sea eagles, diving gannets, cliff-nesting And this in itself answered my earlier question. writes in the company’s
cormorants and peregrine falcons all populate What is the point of climbing to the top of things? comprehensive guide to getting
the area. Today we see albatross and sea eagles, In this case, it was to hit that sweet spot: the ready. “It’s preparing the body
in addition to the colonies of Australian and New home run back down the trail when the afternoon for the increased intensity of
Zealand fur seals that live on the rocky shores of sun is soft and honeyed, the eucalyptus smells undulation, terrain, pack weight,
Tasman Island. We circumnavigate this small patch even sweeter and you don’t feel the pack on your kilometres walked and overall
of land and steal a glimpse of the precipitously shoulders anymore. endurance.” For an introductory
placed lighthouse and keepers’ cottages that to moderate walk such as
once comprised one of Australia’s most isolated the Three Capes and Tasman
lightstations. The lighthouse is automated today Peninsula, it’s recommended
– still a beacon for seafarers entering Storm Bay, that trekkers have a reasonable
including those sailing the Sydney to Hobart Yacht degree of fitness and spend a
Race – but the island has remained uninhabited couple of hours, a few times
since the last keeper moved off in 1977. a week, doing some extended
The Three Capes and Tasman Peninsula walking while carrying a
walk is a chance to feel Tasmania at its end-of- daypack weighing five to
the-world wildest, without throwing yourself seven kilograms.
GETAWAYS | Tasman Peninsula
DETAILS
Getting there
The Three Capes and
Tasman Peninsula trip
departs from and returns
to Hobart. We preceded
our walk with an overnight
stay at Hobart’s The Old
Woolstore Apartment Hotel;
comfortable, converted
heritage digs close to the
What to pack
CLOCKWISE Tasmanian Expeditions
FROM TOP: The provides a detailed gear list
vertiginous Cape Pillar for the walk and highlights the
– which lays claim to the
‘layering principle’ – which is
southern hemisphere’s
highest sea cliffs; Vibrant key to trekking in Tasmania.
dwarf banskias found en Essentials include lightweight
route to Cape Raoul; walking boots (with ankle
Between the devil and the
support), a quality waterproof
deep blue sea; The fruit of
the purple apple berry jacket and pants and a small
glistens in the sun. backpack (30-40 litres).
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 137
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OSTERIA OGGI
This light-filled diner, an Adelaide
favourite, has recently scooped a
prestigious design award for its subtle
treatment, in muted tones and textures,
that takes cues from the piazzas
of Italy. Turn over for more.
P H O T O G R A P H Y: P E T E R C L A R K E
CULTURE | Inner beauty
L I G H T U P
A TIRED OLD office space in the Adelaide city
centre IS REVITALISED as a light and bright
EATING SPACE that takes its cues from the
unaffected, HUMBLE BEAUTY of Tuscany.
CLOCKWISE
FROM FAR LEFT:
Muted shades are used
to subtle effect; Osteria
Oggi was transformed
from an office space
to a light-filled diner;
The design evokes Italian
piazzas; Communal
tables run through the
centre of the space.
OSTERIA OGGI has been heaped with News award for Restaurant Interiors in space, has a humble beauty that belies the
praise since opening just a few short years February. Recognising designs that have made exacting effort and time that has been put into
back, as much for its luminous design as its the biggest impact on the cultural landscape realising it. Referencing the piazzas of Italy,
modern interpretation of traditional Italian around the world, coming away with a gong layers of texture (wood, concrete, textiles
combinations and tastes. The latest such was huge news. But the duo were humble in and flagstones) and muted shades combine
accolade was presented on a world stage when victory, congratulating Osteria Oggi’s owner throughout, with long communal tables
designers Graham Charbonneau and Dave Simon Kardachi, who commissioned them. running down the centre of the space, and
Bickmore, co-founders of the South Australia- It is easy to see what the judges loved; the intimate curved booths hugging the walls.
based Studio -Gram, won the World Interiors light-filled diner, formerly a run-down office 76 Pirie Street, Adelaide; osteriaoggi.com.au
144 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
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CULTURE | Towns
4
D A Y house the old railway line, the WADA N D I T R ACK .
Formerly known as the ‘Rails to Trails’, it winds
through some of the most beautiful bush (3),
farmland and vineyards in the Margaret River region.
Company over a decade ago. Its 800-litre & GA LLERY (7) for unique gifts and art.
brewhouse (where they make six handcrafted 3pm: A dip in the ocean
ales and lagers), bar and restaurant complements A visit to Cowaramup isn’t complete without a
the region’s already diverse offerings. trip out to COWARA MU P B AY (G R ACE TOW N )
(8). Famous for its world-class surf breaks, there’s
THE NITTY GR I T T Y: also an easily accessible swimming beach suitable
WHERE EX AC TLY: In the south-west of Western for families with small children.
Australia, three hours’ drive south of Perth. 4:30pm: Treat yourself
3 P O P U LATIO N: The most recent data released from Head back into town for some well-deserved
COWA R A M U P B AY, C A N DY COW )
2011 was 1131 but the small town is experiencing pampering at COWARA W ELLB EI N G CE N T R E .
significant growth, particularly in young families. 6:30pm: Dinner time
WHAT’ S IT ALL ABOUT: Cowaramup is right in the Choose between the COW TOW N CL A SSIC
heart of the Margaret River wine region, the closest C A FE or the recently opened B A K E H O USE ’3 8 (9)
town to a number of wineries including Vasse Felix, for dinner; both restaurants offer delicious menus.
6
Howard Park and MadFish. It’s also near Cowaramup Bedtime: Rest your head
Bay, a popular swimming and surfing beach. Stay at THE N OB LE GRAP E , a cosy boutique
9
WHY GO : It’s a chance to explore a quirky small guesthouse far enough from its famous neighbour,
town that retains a uniquely rural feel, central to Margaret River to ensure a quiet and relaxing
the internationally famous Margaret River region. haven away from the busy tourist centre.
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 147
W H A T I T ’ S R E A L L Y L I K E …
to be a shoemaker
From his WORKSHOP and store in Sydney’s Strand Arcade,
ANDREW MCDONALD and his team of SHOEMAKERS
create CUSTOM-MADE FOOTWEAR and accessories with
character and originality. Here, he shares SOME INSIGHTS.
I usually get into work somewhere between 7:30 shoemaker, Paul Harnden, and I did a story on him. And then he
and 8 o’clock. The first thing I do is flick on the lights, sit made some shoes for me. I came back to Australia, went to college
down at the computer and choose some music. Then I would and learnt how to make shoes.
probably look at all the unanswered emails, just do all that admin I loved the idea that you could be working with
stuff. Then I start to prepare my shoemaking for the day, my work your hands but you’re actually making something
plan for everybody. That’s my favourite time in the morning – that is tangible. Photography is kind of different. I photograph
when everybody’s here it’s like the circus begins. The days can be the shoes for the website and Instagram, and so I could always satisfy
hectic because it’s managing the workshop, the digital side of the that interest – but it was just the idea that I could make something
business and the customers. that is useful. It had a practical use and I could somehow improve
My workshop moved to the Strand Arcade five the quality of people’s lives.
years ago. And I was in Paddington for 14 years before that. The [custom-made shoemaking] process begins when
The Strand approached me and initially I wasn’t sure. But I think a customer comes in and I take their measurements.
what really attracted me was the heritage of the building. It’s Then they choose a style and a material, and we create the story.
always been a kind of home for Australian design and the curatorial Then they come in for a series of fittings. My favourite part of the
effort at the time was very much focused on developing this [physical] process? I have to say pulling the upper over the last.
concept of a standalone arcade that specialised in artisan You make the pattern and then before this, everything is two
craftspeople. It was creating a unique shopping identity that was dimensional. And then you pull it over the last and it becomes
different from your Westfield, your shopping centres, and drew three dimensional, and the life begins.
from the heritage of the building. The three key elements in a shoe? That the design
I’ve been making shoes for 27 years. Before that works for you, it’s a design that you feel comfortable in and that it
I freelanced as a photographer for 10 years, after studying complements what you wear. That the material of the shoe makes
photography at Sydney TAFE. And I worked as a medical you feel good. Not only that your feet feel comfortable but the rest
photographer at the University of Sydney veterinary science of your body does too, you’ve got good posture, it makes you smile.
faculty. Then I moved to England and worked at Guy’s Hospital And then the composition of the materials, the construction and
in London and stepped into more commercial work. And that’s the type of materials. That they’re durable, with no synthetics, are
where my first interest in shoemaking came from. I met a sustainably sourced and use vegetable tans; all that stuff, you know?
CULTURE | People
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP: The pattern
cutting stage of the
shoemaking process;
Andrew McDonald in
his workshop and store in
Sydney’s Strand Arcade;
Andrew takes a
customer’s measurements.
OPPOSITE: Andrew
works with the finest
tanneries to source
leathers with a natural
finish and vegetable tan;
He’s been making shoes
for 27 years.
navigate beyond commercial brands and choose for yourself. then. It took a long while to find a sensibility and then I realised it
I think the awareness is definitely a reaction to would be great to just draw from my environment, what’s around me.
everything else being the same. Even in luxury goods So I’m always thinking about the colours you see in the environment
the products are pretty uninteresting when you think about it. in the desert, that kind of scorched, stained, streaked palette.
Beautifully made, sure, but there’s nothing that you look at and So what I’m trying to do with the design is take
go ‘ah that’s art’, or ‘that hits me in the soul, I feel that’. the classics and twist them a little bit. For me,
I don’t mean to say that what it was like then is I’ve got to have a design that’s a bit different. But the other thing
better than now, but it was different. You went to [that’s important to me] is the surface texture of the leather, and
buy things and you met the person who made the thing, so you had honouring the integrity of the leather. I work with really great
a greater understanding of the process. You had a texture of the tanneries so that I can find leather that is the natural finish, it’s
person. I think now there’s a highly mechanised aesthetic out there. vegetable tan, it has no fillers, it has no structure or paint put on
People have this expectation of everything to have this line of it to create a continuity. I want to see the skin for all its scars and
perfection, and that I want to honour the scars. I want something that is what it is and
line of perfection is not something else. There just doesn’t seem to be any point for me
derived from to make shoes or use leather that everyone else uses. You’re not
machinery. I’m not really creating any point of difference.
saying all things, but Visit A.McDonald Shoemaker on the second floor of The Strand Arcade
a lot of things made in Sydney for ready-to-wear or custom footwear and accessories. Andrew
by machinery are also runs five-day shoemaking courses, during which beginner students
pretty cold, they can design and make a pair of shoes. andrewmcdonald.com.au
AUSTRALIANTRAVELLER.COM 149
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5
11
R ICK ST EI N
The ENGLISH CHEF on why he fell in love
with the coastal town of MOLLYMOOK
and turned it into a DINING DESTINATION
with RICK STEIN at Bannisters.
7
1. As a child, our family holidays were always to... Cornwall,
to our Art Deco house overlooking the Atlantic Ocean over Trevose
Head, not far from Padstow where I run The Seafood Restaurant.
2. Now if I have time for a short break in Australia, I head
straight to… Mollymook with my wife Sas and my step children Zach
and Olivia. Curiously to me it’s a mix of the best of Australian landscapes
and South West England. Being an avid swimmer, I am very taken with the
white sandy beaches of the South Coast. 3
3. The first time I was in Australia in 1967, I was inspired by…
the long ocean beaches around Sydney, the Harbour Bridge and the
6
still-being-built Opera House, chocolate malted milkshakes and
Aussie burgers in milk bars. 9
4. My favourite Australian city is… rather obviously, Sydney. It’s
one of the nicest cities to go walking in and we love to do the Spit to
Manly and have a beer at the Manly Wharf Hotel.
5. My carry-on is usually filled with… as little carry-on luggage
as possible, something I pride myself on; just an iPad, book, headphones,
yellow notebook, yellow pen and cinnamon chewing gum.
6. When I’m on the road, I’m listening to… the BBC’s Desert
Island Discs; I just finished Barry Humphries. I also just finished a
history of Mexico audiobook because I’m filming my latest TV series,
Rick Stein’s Road to Mexico.
7. The last thing I read on holiday was… All the Pretty Horses by
Cormac McCarthy.
8. I can’t leave home without my… bag of wires for my iPhone,
iPad, MacBook and iWatch.
9. My favourite Australian restaurant is… Long Chim Perth.
10. I set up a restaurant at Bannisters, Mollymook because…
my wife Sas, who has been holidaying there since she was a teenager,
introduced me to Mollymook and I ended up sharing her love for this
special part of the NSW South Coast.
11. What I love most about Australian food is... its exciting
mix of cooking styles from all over the world, along with the best
local ingredients. bannisters.com.au 2
CULTURE | What’s on
SEPTEMBER 21 S E P T E M B E R –
8 OCTOB ER
2MOULD –
OZ A S I A F E S T I VA L
ADELAIDE, SA
Australia’s leading
international arts festival
dedicated to all things Asia,
A CHEESE incorporating theatre, dance,
music, film, talks and visual
F E S T I VA L arts. ozasiafestival.com.au
M E AT M A R K E T,
NORTH MELBOURNE , VIC
A celebration of cheese in
farmers’-market-meets-festival U NTIL 22 OCTOB ER
ARCHIBALD, W YN N E
style, presented by Bottle Shop AND SULMAN PRIZES
Concepts with Nick Haddow A RT G A L L E RY O F N S W, N S W
It’s that time of year again.
of Bruny Island Cheese. Sample
Spot famous faces and admire
produce from across Australia, the always-impressive artistry
and go all-out with raclette on display at Australia’s popular
and cheese-flavoured gelato. portrait, landscape and sculpture
mouldcheesefestival.com exhibition. artgallery.nsw.gov.au
W H AT’S ON
The FOOD FESTIVALS, art exhibitions,
cultural extravaganzas and FASHION BLOCKBUSTERS
you don’t want to miss in the coming months.
9–30 SEPTEMBER
B R I S B A N E F E S T I VA L
BRISBANE, QLD
Brissie’s top arts fest has
an eclectic program that
includes headliners London
Grammar, a riverside firework
extravaganza and loads in
between. brisbanefestival.com.au
AUG –SEPT
2 3 A U G U S T – 19
2 5 –3
HORIZON FESTIVAL
NOVEMBER
P R I M AV E R A 2 0 17 :
YO U N G A U S T R A L I A N
A RT I S T S
M C A , S Y D N E Y, N S W
An annual exhibition that
OF ARTS & CULTURE brings together the work
S U N S H I N E C O A S T, Q L D of eight artists aged 35 and
The Sunshine Coast’s signature multi-arts under, this year’s theme
festival combines film, comedy, street art, music explores natural and human-
made archives under the title
and more over 10 days. horizonfestival.com.au
Ancient Futures. mca.com.au
152 A U S T R A L I A N T R AV E L L E R . C O M
F RO M 15 S E P T E M B E R
SONG LI N E S: TR AC KI NG
THE SEVEN SISTERS
N AT I O N A L M U S E U M O F
AU STR ALIA , C ANB E RR A , ACT
Using a digital dome to portray
stories told in rock art, the ancient
WA song saga of the seven sisters
is explored in this Aboriginal-led
exhibition. nma.gov.au
19 – 2 2 O C TO B E R
FERMENT THE
F E S T I VA L
ADELAIDE, SA
Cheese, chocolate, charcuterie.
Wine and whisky. All
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designed by top Adelaide chefs.
fermentthefestival.com.au
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spring up across the tropical city. buzzing three weeks in Mudgee.
darwinfestival.org.au visitmudgeeregion.com.au
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