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12 easy steps for whitewash tank camo >

FineScale.com
January 2018

p. 52

PERFECTING
SIMPLE TECHNIQUES
A P51
8PAG
PUMP UP DETAILS IPMS/USEA
NATIONA
GALLERYLS
p.30

Raúl Corral’s 1/48 scale


P-51D from Tamiya – p. 24

How to build 3-D printing Improve a How to paint


an odd opens the final carrier-deck realistic
Tiger p. 20 frontier p. 46 display p. 38 hands p. 18

“FITTER COMPARO” ||| JAPAN NEWPRODUCT REPORT


We build HobbyBoss and
Kitty Hawk Su-17s – p. 60 BONUS
ONLINE
CONTENT
CODE
PAGE 3
Vol. 36 • Issue 1
CONTENTS ONLINE CONTENT CODE: FSM1801
January 2018 /// Vol. 36 /// No. 1 Enter this code at www.FineScale.com/code to gain access to web-exclusive content

42

FEATURES KIT REVIEWS


15 Airbrushing & Finishing
Small details tell big story of Akagi 56 Trumpeter M915 tractor and
AARON SKINNER M872 flatbed trailer

18 Form & Figure 56 Revell Spitfire


Giving your figure a hand
JOE HUDSON 20
58 Tamiya M1A2 Abrams
20 How to build an oddball Tiger
Cyber-hobby kit with resin Zimmerit 58 Takom Maus V2
BILL PLUNK
59 Moebius Death Dealer
24 Relax and build a Mustang
Easy details and weathering
RAÚL CORRAL 60 “Fitters” compared:
Kitty Hawk vs. HobbyBoss
30 Show Gallery 35
IPMS/USA National Convention
IN EVERY ISSUE
38 Deck out a Nimitz-class carrier
Correct Italeri’s carrier deck section 5 Editor’s Page
HUGO PETIERS

42 Build Hasegawa’s Skywarrior 7 Scale Talk


Improvement and paint for an A-3B
STEVE EVANS 9 New Products
38
46 Modeling New Horizons
44 Reader Gallery
3-D printing opens hobby frontiers
ROBERT F. LaPORTA
55 Questions & Answers
50 Revive an Airfix relic
New decals and nose for a BAC-111 62 Reader Tips
FRANK CUDEN

52 Whitewash, rinse, and repeat 64 Modelers Mart/Classifieds


Lighten up with easy camo technique
JONATHAN CAMPBELL 50 66 Final Details
FineScale Modeler (ISSN 0277-979X, USPS No. 679-590) is published monthly (except for June & August) by Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187.
Periodicals Postage is paid at Waukesha, WI and additional offices. Postmaster: Send address changes to FineScale Modeler, PO Box 62320, Tampa, FL 33662-2320. Canada Post Publication Mail Agreement #40010760.
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EDITOR’S PAGE
By Mark Savage

The perfect season arrives


With Christmas and other holidays year, I received three models (Dad
just around the corner and New Year’s had taken the hints I’d been drop-
knocking at our door, the perfect sea- ping for months), which kept me
son is nearly upon us. busy through spring.
I call it the perfect season because I had two setups: One, the card
we all know that there are benefits, table I put up in our tile-floored fam-
especially for those of us in the ily room. This worked best for larger
northern climes, to being house- models I was working on, but it got
bound for a weekend. As the wicked in the way of Mom’s ironing board.
north winds blow and the And two, a metal Two fabulous models from my “wonder years.”
snow piles up against the TV tray that no one
porch, it’s less likely we’ll I call it the cared if it was painted Bonanza, Combat, Gilligan’s Island, or
have a lot of interruptions perfect on or nicked with my Man from U.N.C.L.E., and while
to our favorite pastime. season hobby knife. At the away the hours making models.
Now we can model in because we time, I had a couple It was a good time, the best of
peace, create to our all know (mainly pocket knives) times in the perfect season.
heart’s content, snuggle there are my dad had given me Here’s hoping you find some peace
up with our latest issue benefits to through the years. and creative quiet time this winter to
of FineScale Modeler, being I had an old cigar box relax, reflect, and build!
and just enjoy ourselves. housebound that held my plastic tray of
It’s this time of year Testors paints, along with
that gets me reflecting my brushes and a tube of
on my early modeling days. First, glue. No liquid glue back then, at
getting that new biplane, jet, or car least none in our house.
model for Christmas, plus maybe a I’d plunk myself down in front of
couple of new paintbrushes. One editor@finescale.com
the TV (black-and-white still), watch

Off the sprue: What’s your favorite current TV show?

Editor Senior Editor Associate Editor Assistant Editor Editorial Associate


Mark Savage Aaron Skinner Mark Hembree Elizabeth Nash Monica Freitag
msavage@Kalmbach.com askinner@FineScale.com mhembree@FineScale.com enash@FineScale.com mfreitag@FineScale.com

I laugh the hardest at I’m watching several Actually, we don’t watch Brooklyn Nine-Nine is just Well I’ve got two. This is
Modern Family, but really including most of the much TV at our house hilarious. The talented Us, because it’s a
enjoy the genealogy PBS Masterpiece Theater (for which my kids have yet immature detectives fantastic drama with a lot
show on PBS, Finding shows, but the new show thanked us), other than of the NYPD are on the of unexpected turns and
Your Roots, with Henry that surprised me, and I Anthony Bourdain’s Parts case! Each episode, I a great cast, and The
Louis Gates Jr. It’s look forward to the most, Unknown, sports, and laugh nonstop (so much Middle because I can
entertaining and really is The Orville. Netflix. so that sometimes I have relate! (Sad to see that
digs into some historical to rewind to hear the it’s the last season for
topics that are often jokes I missed while that one).
overlooked. giggling).

www.FineScale.com 5
Editor Mark Savage
Art Director Tom Ford

EDITORIAL
Senior Editor Aaron Skinner
Associate Editor Mark Hembree
Assistant Editor Elizabeth Nash
Editorial Associate Monica Freitag

ART
Illustrator Kellie Jaeger
Photographer William Zuback
Production Coordinator Cindy Barder

CONTRIBUTING MODELERS
Paul Boyer, Federico Collada, Andy Cooper,
Raúl Corral, Frank Cuden, Phillip Gore, James Green,
Joe Hudson, Rick Lawler, Karl Logan, Harvey Low,
Rato Marczak, Chris Mrosko, Bill Plunk, Darren Roberts,
Chuck Sawyer, Cookie Sewell, Bob Steinbrunn,
Cristóbal Vergara, Jim Wechsler, Adam Wilder

KALMBACH PUBLISHING CO.


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Today
6 FineScale Modeler January 2018
SCALE TALK
Your voice in FSM

Now that’s a big model


I’ve been building models for 65 years, give
or take. The latest project: Would you
believe the front 28 feet of a full-size
F-100D?
The fuselage portion of the project
started in 2006. The attached photo shows
me in the “model” just after it was com-
pleted in July 2015. Steve Rettell taught me
how to do the metal work — there’s no way
I could have done this without his help.
The vinyl decals were made by Jack and
Beth Harrell, using my drawings as tem-
plates.
My wife, Anne, painted the Statue de la
Liberté details. This airplane was based in
Chaumont, France, and the color scheme
was carried in the 1958 William Tell
Weapons Meet at Nellis Air Force Base.
There’s not enough space to go into the
building process here, but if you go online
to www.supersabre.com you can follow the
fuselage construction process.
Clearly, some FSM readers are certifi- Where did it come from? Air Force F-4s were cleaner than ours. Our
ably nuts. But we sure have a great time! I’ve enjoyed the recent Scale Talk letters on aircraft showed fluid leaks more readily.
– Peter Rob how to properly weather a model. If you’re I also worked at Naval Air Station,
Murfreesboro, Tenn. going for realism, you have to consider the Moffett Field, also in California. The state
location and type of facility the equipment of the aircraft were different there, too.
Correction was kept in. For the most part, I think panels on
Note that Airfix’s 1/72 scale Handley Page During the Vietnam War, I was sta- models are exaggerated. It’s nifty looking,
Victor B.Mk.2 reviewed in the November tioned at Marine Corps Air Station El but not something you’d see in real life.
2017 issue requires a .9oz. nose weight, not the Toro in California. We trained air and – Richard Jones
hefty 9oz. we called for. ground crew on F-4s. I noticed that visiting via email

What tools are essential to you?


Motor tool attachments made by Loew Cornell (No. 1021179). ing glasses. Oh, and the optional LED
Congratulations on 35 years! I enjoyed There are 24 to a package and they are light doesn’t hurt, either.
the November anniversary issue with the 1¾ inches long. They are coated with a – Greg Dieter
appropriately named article “35 tips, clear finish so the outside doesn’t snag or Tigard, Ore.
tools, & techniques you need.” scratch delicate parts. I find they provide
I have two important additions to your the right amount of clamping pressure. Inspiration, of course
list of essential tools: If using a motor tool, – James Davies I have read FSM since the late 1980s.
I highly recommend getting the flexible Newark, Del. While I am distressed by developments
shaft attachment and a micro chuck. within the hobby world (fewer U.S. man-
The flexible shaft makes the bulky tool Prescription glasses ufacturers, higher kit prices, and the clo-
much easier to control and hold. The Regarding magnifying glassware, I had sure of most brick-and-mortar hobby
micro chuck just makes changing bits so tried a few of the clip-on types but, given shops), I am heartened to see that interest
much better than changing collets for dif- how nearsighted I am, they never felt is still strong among the generations.
ferent bits. quite right. It seemed that objects weren’t Your publication undoubtedly
– Robert Norman in focus. contributes to this endeavor.
Painesville, Ohio Then I saw a CraftOptics booth at an Since I have an estimated 4,000 kits
exposition and knew I had found what I in storage waiting for me to build them, I
Mini clothespins needed. I now have a pair of prescription will be a continual reader looking for that
In the November tool article, you note magnifying glasses (including bifocal fresh idea, technique, tool, and
using clothespins from the laundry room. lenses) that I can actually see with. recommendation.
An alternative is the mini clothespins I If you wear glasses, I strongly recom- – John Kiser
find at my local A.C.Moore crafts store, mend looking into prescription magnify- Arlington, Texas

www.FineScale.com 7
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8 FineScale Modeler January 2018


NEW PRODUCTS
Compiled by Monica Freitag & Aaron Skinner

Spotlight

Exclusive: All Japan Hobby Show Report

T
he Tokyo International Exhibition Center hosted the 57th annual All Japan Hobby Show Sept. 29-30, 2017. Most of the
major Japanese model manufacturers attended and showed off upcoming releases. FSM’s special correspondent Greg Bower
checked out the offerings; here are some highlights.

BANDAI FREEDOM MODELS

ing armor. The legs are posable with


working pistons and the cannons are
Developed in Taiwan for the Republic of movable and would be great with other
China air force, the F-CK-1 Ching-Kuo 1/72 scale armor. The kits should be
Continuing its established line of Star entered service in the late 1990s. available now.
Wars kits, Bandai showed off the much- Freedom Models has released 1/48 scale
anticipated Perfect Grade 1/72 scale kits of the single-seat -1C and two-seat
Millennium Falcon. The kit reproduces
the 5-foot filming miniature used in the
-1D variants and they should be coming
out soon.
TAMIYA
original Star Wars: A New Hope, including
three landing-gear legs as opposed to the
five used on later models. Surface detail
includes faithfully recreated scratches and
GREAT WALL HOBBY
impact craters, and the kit includes light-
ing and photo-etched parts. It should be
available soon.

FINE MOLDS

Following the success of its 1/48 scale


MiG-29 and F-15, Great Wall Hobby
showed off sprues and a buildup of its
upcoming Russian Sukhoi Su-35S
In 2015, Fine Molds released a detailed “Flanker-E”. The release date was
1/72 scale F-14D Tomcat with posable unknown at press time.
hatches, but it was only available in sec- Using technology normally associated
tions sold with issues of Model Graphix. with its 1/32 scale aircraft kits, Tamiya
The company retooled some of the intake
parts to improve accuracy, then added
ROCKET MODELS showed parts and buildups of a 1/48 scale
Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6. Magnets and
new cockpit and exhaust nozzle parts to optional parts allow the cowl to be closed
produce an F-14A. Decals include a A new Japanese company, Rocket or open to display a detailed engine.
choice of markings for either VF-84 Jolly Models, has a range of 1/72 scale kits Carefully installed polycaps leave the
Rogers or VF-111 Sundowners. A missile under the Fist of War brand. Based in an drop tank removable. Three marking
set is being sold separately. Both were alternate universe, the kits theorize the options will be included. The release date
expected to be available in December. results of German work to produce walk- was unknown at press time.

www.FineScale.com 9
NEW PRODUCTS

AIRCRAFT KITS
1/48 SCALE

Mitsubishi F-2A 3SQ 60th Anniversary


Tornado IDS 60th Anniversary 311 GV from Hasegawa, No. 0261, $45.99.
RSV from Italeri, No. 1403, $22.99.

IDF F-CK-IC Ching-Kuo from AFV Club,


No. AR48108, $55.99. Look for a detailed review
in an upcoming issue of FSM.

Shinmeiwa SS-2 Rescue Seaplane from


Hasegawa, No. 0260, $59.99.

Fw 189A-1/A-2 from Italeri, No. 1404, $17.99.

Area-88 F-14A Tomcat Micky Scymon from


SBD-5 Dauntless from Italeri, No. 2673, Hasegawa, No. 4755, $59.99.
$34.99.

1/72 SCALE

F/A-18E/F Super Hornet (2 kits) from


Hasegawa, No. 5265, $99.99.

Messerschmitt Bf 109G-6 Finnish Aces (2


kits) from Hasegawa, No. 0259, $45.99.

F-106A Delta Dart from Trumpeter,


No. 01682, $47.95. Look for a detailed review in
an upcoming issue of FSM.
ARMOR KITS
Kugisho P1Y1 Ginga “Frances” Type 11
from Hasegawa, No. 5101, $37.99. 1/35 SCALE

F-35A Lightning II fighter Lockheed Mitsubishi G3M2/G3M3 Type 96 attack


Martin from Meng, No. LS-007, $69.99. Look bomber from Hasegawa, No. 5111, $42.99.
for a detailed review in an upcoming issue of
FSM. Merkava Mk.1 from Takom, No. 2078, $55.
Look for a detailed review in an upcoming
issue of FSM.

10 FineScale Modeler January 2018


ARA Press
The Spaceship Enthusiasts’
One-Stop Data Shop!

Profile of the Dutch Battlecruiser-carrier Cornelis De Witt


Available Again!
Join Admiraal Maarten Sweers of the Royal Netherlands Navy, as he leads Lost in Space Design:
his battlecruiser-carrier squadron against the might of Imperial Japan in “No Place to Hide”
by Robert Rowe
Mark Klimaszewski’s WW 2 novel FAR AFT AND FAINTLY.
Take advantage of the publisher’s discount from LuLu 
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Fourteen
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www.FineScale.com 11
NEW PRODUCTS

1/56 SCALE

Merkava Mk.1 Hybrid from Takom, No. 2079, M4 Sherman tank Black Magic‚ from Revell,
$55. No. 85-7864, $23. Wargame King Tiger tank from Italeri,
No. 5765, $29.99.

1/72 SCALE

M109A3 from AFV Club, No. AF35304, $55.99.


M3 Lee (early) from Takom, No. 2085, $59.95.
Look for a detailed review in an upcoming FSM.

PzKpfw IV Ausf F2 and 8-ton halftrack


from Hasegawa, No. 0046, $64.99.

FIGURE KITS
1/48 SCALE
MIM-23 from AFV Club, No. AF35283, $59.99. WWII pilot
Look for a detailed review in an upcoming Albatros from Plus
issue of FSM. Model, No. AL4077,
M3 Grant from Takom, No. 2086, $59.95. $11.50.
AMD35 French armored car 1940 from
Tamiya, No. 32411, $40.

15cm sIG 33 auf Fahrgestell PzKpfw III (Sf)


from Dragon, No. 6904, $69.99.

1/48 SCALE
OTHER SCALE

R.O.K. Army K2 Black Panther from


Academy, No. 13511, $65. Look for a detailed
review in an upcoming issue of FSM.

German Heavy Tractor SS-100 from Tamiya,


Military Miniature Series No. 93, No. 32593, $26.
Polish Line light horse Lancers from
Warlord Games, No. 302212001, $35. Black
Powder Napoleonic Wars 1789-1815.

Prussian Landwehr Regiment (1813-1815)


Carro Armato L6/40 tank from Italeri, from Warlord Games, No. 302012501, $25.50.
No. 6553, $29.99. Black Powder Napoleonic Wars 1789-1815.

12 FineScale Modeler January 2018


Polish Vistula Legion from Warlord Games,
No. 302011801, $25.50. Black Powder
1/35 SCALE AIRCRAFT DETAILS
Napoleonic Wars 1789-1815.
1/72 SCALE

SHIP KITS Flaps for P2V


Neptune from Plus
Model, No. AL7019,
1/350 SCALE $26.10. 10 resin parts,
photo-etched sheet
and decals.

Gas station from Plus Model, No. 494, $80.60.

JMSDF DDH Hyuga Helicopter Destroyer


SPACECRAFT DETAILS
from Hasegawa, No. 4154, $59.99.
1/350 SCALE
1/700 SCALE

Greengrocer trol- Fluid tank from Plus


ley from Plus Model, Model, No. 495,
No. 513, $20. 9 resin $33.30. 24 resin parts
parts and laser carved and photo-etch
wooden parts. sheet.
Japanese Navy Destroyer Asashio from
Hasegawa, No. 9463, $22.99. 1/48 SCALE

TOS Enterprise Moonlander space-


engine grills from craft from ParaGrafix,
ParaGrafix, No. No. PGX209, $31.95.
Japanese Navy Light Cruiser Tatsuta from PGX208, $29.95.
Hasegawa, No. 3173, $64.99.

Wheel extinguisher Portable toolbox AIRCRAFT DECALS


MISCELLANEOUS KITS from Plus Model,
No. AL4074, $17.30.
from Plus Model,
No. AL4075, $17.90.
1/32 SCALE
28MM Space Racers -
Make Your Own F-16C Alaskan
Paper Rockets, Splinters from
$29.99. From TwoBobs Aviation
Laurence King Graphics, No. 32-068,
Publishing. $14. Also available in
1/48 48-259 and 1/72
72-105.

Ma’al Drakar from Reaper, No. 77580, $149.99.


The Dragon Tyrant.

Welcome new manufacturers


Linden Hill Imports: www.lindenhillimports.com

www.FineScale.com 13
NEW PRODUCTS
BOOKS
1/48 SCALE

US Navy Escort TSR2 Britain's Lost M1A1 in Iraqi Krupp Protze and
Carriers 1942-45, Cold War Strike Jet, Service, $25, soft- Variants, $18, soft-
Arctic Flankers — Su-27 Flanker air- $18, by Mark Stile, $20, by Andrew cover, 66 pages, all cover, 46 pages, all
Su-27 Guardians of frame stencil data softcover, 48 pages, Brookes, softcover, 80 color photos, ISBN: black-and-white pho-
the North update (Russian) from all black-and-white pages, mostly black- 978-1-5267-0691-1. tos, ISBN: 978-1-9475-
from Linden Hill Linden Hill Imports, photos, ISBN: 978-1- and-white photos, From Sabot 5200-005. From Sabot
Imports, No. No. LHD48011M, 4728-1810-2. From ISBN: 978-1-4728- Publications. Publications.
LHD48040, $21.99. $12.99. Osprey Publishing. 2248-2. From Osprey.

The Panzer IV The Boat that Won


MiG-21 Aces of the Sturmgeschütz, $45, Hitler's Rock, $22.95, the War, $34, by
Vietnam War, $23, by Thomas Anderson, by Anthony Tucker- Charles C. Roberts, Jr.,
F-16C Thunderbirds from TwoBobs Aviation by Istvan Toperczer, hardcover, 272 pages, Jones, softcover, 123 hardcover, 128 pages,
Graphics, No. 48-260, $24. softcover, 112 pages, all black-and-white pages, black-and- black-and-white pho-
mostly black-and- photos, ISBN: 978-1- white photos, ISBN: tos, ISBN: 978-1-5267-
Red Stars for Russian Soviet Su-27s & Mig- white photos, ISBN: 4728-1752-5. From 978-1-84832-099-4. 0691-1. From Pen &
29s 1980 - 2017 from Linden Hill Imports, 978-1-4728-2356-4. Osprey Publishing. From Pen & Sword Sword Books Limited.
No. LHD48041, $7. From Osprey Books Limited.
Publishing.
Want to see more? Junkers Ju 88 The
B-29 Superfortress Early Years -
Visit www.finescale.com for Workbench vs Ki-44 Tojo, Pacific Blitzkrieg to the
Reviews, details of books and decals and FSM’s Theater 1944-45, Blitz, $24.95, by Chris
New Product Rundown videos with Aaron $20, by Donald Goss, softcover, 147
Nijboer, softcover, 80 pages, black-and-
Skinner and Elizabeth Nash. Need to replenish
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those modeling supplies? Check out the variety white photos, ISBN: 978-1-84832-4758.
of modeling tools at the Kalmbach Hobby 978-1-4728-1886-7. From Pen & Sword
Store. Visit www.kalmbachhobbystore.com and From Osprey Books Limited.
browse our selection of essential tools! Publishing.

14 FineScale Modeler January 2018


AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING
By Aaron Skinner

Small details tell big story


Paint, weathering, and animated aircraft and figures capture a moment in time

Pilots of Mitsubishi Zeroes and Nakajima Kates run up the engines and prepare to take off as deck crew make final preparations aboard the
Japanese carrier Akagi on Dec. 7, 1941. Dave crowded his 1/350 scale model with more than 20 planes and scores of figures.

C
rews hustle about the deck and the stops when he built Hasegawa’s Akagi mixed with Testors Universal Enamel
propellers spin as the Akagi with four of the company’s detail sets Thinner. He uses different ratios for flat —
launches the first wave of fighters embellished with some Eduard photo-etch 3 parts paint and 1 part thinner — and
and torpedo bombers against (PE). In addition to ladders and railings, gloss colors — 3 parts paint and 2 parts
Pearl Harbor. That’s the scene set by Dave PE replaced much of the kit plastic under thinner.
Adamson’s 1/350 scale model of the the flight deck. Using a dental compressor (a leftover
Japanese carrier. Dave painted most of the 29-inch-long from his career as a dental laboratory tech-
The Parker, Colo., resident pulled out all model with Testors Model Master enamels nologist), he sprays enamels at 15-20 psi for

Meet Dave Adamson


“I’m an 84-year-old the Army Air Corps, gave to his wife, Norma the stash.” He builds
youngster still learning him a Comet kit of the (they’re still together 56 mostly 1/48 scale World
my way through the B-29. “The kit came with years later), and a career War II aircraft, but dab-
hobby of scale modeling,” solid-wood precut parts, occupied much of his bles in 1/32 scale planes,
says Dave. As a preteen, glue, paint, clear plastic time. “I do not remember some jets, and loves the
he built stick-and-tissue blisters, and, yes, sandpa- what prompted the reen- change of pace offered
airplanes with his older per,” Dave says. From the try,” he says. “I didn’t have by 1/350 scale ships. “I
brother and remembers late 1940s to the late much time to build, but I have two children —
whittling airplanes from 1960s he didn’t build did start buying up lots both now married — and to get my son, Troy,
shipping-crate planks. In much as high school, four and lots of kits — the I’m blessed with five started in the hobby, as
late World War II, his years in the Air Force, beginning of that mon- grandchildren,” he says. “I well as two grandsons,
brother, on leave from some college, marriage strous thing known as used kits from my stash Nicholas and Christian.”

www.FineScale.com 15
AIRBRUSHING & FINISHING
general coverage. For small areas and with Testors Plastic Prep (out of produc- as well as the still-separate island and the
details, he moves the brush closer to the tion), Dave pre-shaded details and recesses fore and aft decks, Kure naval arsenal gray
surface and reduces the pressure to 10-15 with flat black. Then he airbrushed the (No. 2167). “I applied a thinned and light-
psi; he may add more thinner for better lower hull with Floquil oxide red (an out- ened version of that color to achieve a
flow. He painted the Akagi with a Badger of-production color replaced by Model bleaching or fading effect, concentrating on
200 single-action airbrush. Master British crimson). the center of the broader areas both vertical
After assembling the hull, minus the The next day, he masked the lower hull and horizontal,” he says. “With the airbrush
flight deck and some details, and wiping it and sprayed everything above the waterline, fine-tuned to more-detailed control, I

Painting photo-etch: The model’s No primer: Dave rarely uses an overall Rigging: Dave rigged the mast and radio
extensive PE poses paint adhesion primer — the Akagi was no exception — antennas with EZ Line attached with tiny
problems that Dave remedied by because he doesn’t worry about enamels drops of super glue. Dabs of white glue
lightly sanding both sides of the not sticking, spot-checks problem areas applied with a toothpick and painted
thin metal frets before removing such as filler and repairs, and prefers a with thin gloss black produced
any parts to give the paint targeted approach for pre-shading or color insulators. “I wanted to present the Akagi
something to hold onto. “Sanding modulation. Rather, he is concerned that with a high wind over the deck using the
is certainly not a panacea to the each layer of paint, including primer, flags to pose that impression,” Dave says.
adherence problem, but it does obscures fine detail molded into modern For flag lines, he gently bowed fine
offer an improvement,” he says. kits. “Overly thick paint application, wires, painted them black, and anchored
“The procedure is tedious, but whether it is the result of too many paint them with super glue. He applied decal
with care and patience, can be layers or overly thick paint spraying/ flags to thin foil, then bent and rolled
done without damaging parts, brushing technique, destroys details and them over toothpicks so they waved
even the more-delicate ones.” contributes to a toy model look,” he says. in the wind.

Figures: Dave crewed his Akagi with a variety of figures:


Akagi by the L’Arsenal resin, Eduard PE, and Fujimi plastic. PE figures
can look a bit flat, so, after bending them into poses,
numbers Dave bulked them up with tiny dots of thick super glue
added to heads, shoulders, buttocks, and stomachs. He
attached them to cardboard strips with double-sided
tape and airbrushed sailors with insignia white, the
855 feet 3 inches pilots light brown, and officers black. Details such as
skin, hair, hats, and shoes, were hand-painted.
(length)

54
(number of aircraft launched
against Pearl Harbor)

180
(days between Pearl Harbor and
Akagi’s sinking at Midway)
applied the same paint mix to the smaller (IJN 10). He installed the painted ship’s nation of airbrushing, dry-brushing, and
detail areas around the ship. In spite of hav- boats and other details, then attached the pastels. Vertical fading and saltwater streak-
ing pre-shaded the model, I decided to completed flight deck and island. Alliance ing on the hull were applied with airbrush
accent some recesses and shadow areas even Model Works resin hammocks destined for and pastels, but the subtle rust shades were
more with darker shades of the base color.” the bridge’s splinter shields were painted just pastels. Dry-brushed light gray high-
Linoleum decks were common on with a mix of insignia white and a little tan, lighted details and blended the weathering.
Japanese vessels; Dave masked and painted then given a wash of black watercolor. He sealed the finish with Winsor &
them with White Ensign linoleum He weathered the carrier with a combi- Newton flat varnish. FSM

Markings:
Concerned that Ship’s boats: After airbrushing the tops of the boats with
decals might Model Master tan (2738) lightened with a little white, Dave
diminish the fine, flipped them over and painted the bottoms with Model
engraved planks on Master Russian topside gray (2120). After dry-brushing
the wooden flight highlights with white, he applied a wash of black
deck, Dave chose to watercolors.
paint the markings.
After masking the
long stripes with
Tamiya tape, he
airbrushed Model
Master insignia Aircraft: Dave cut the molded
white (2751). He Flight deck: Dave assembled the three- canopies from Hasegawa’s clear
used a circle cutter piece flight deck early in the build and plastic Zeros and Kates to make
to make masks for added all of the Hasegawa PE underneath, way for Rainbow PE frames. After
the curved markings test-fitting it with the hull to ensure hollowing out the cockpits, he
around the alignment. While it was off the hull, he hand-painted the cavities dark
elevators. Freehand airbrushed the underside with Model gray. A coat of thin gray primer
masking and more Master Kure Naval Arsenal gray (2167). For minimized the translucency of
insignia white the wooden topside, he applied Model the plastic for subsequent
produced the Akagi Master tan (2021) with a little yellow camouflage colors. The aircraft
symbol on the added. He post-shaded the flight deck were painted with Model Master
deck’s stern. with two mixes of the base tan, one with a enamels lightened a little for
little white, the other with dark brown scale — Japanese army light gray
added. A red-brown watercolor wash (2115) on the Zeros and the
emphasized the molded wood and toned underside of the Kates, Japanese
down the white markings, giving the deck navy green (2116) for the
a weathered appearance. bombers’ upper surfaces, and flat
black for the cowls and tires.
Punched clear disks replicate
spinning propellers. He lightly
weathered the planes with
airbrushed splotches and streaks
of lighter and darker base colors,
and enhanced panel lines with
gray pastel powders.

www.FineScale.com 17
FORM & FIGURE
By Joe Hudson

Giving your figure


a hand
Usefu tips for getting a grip

Often exposed, hands


grip objects that give
context and they can
project emotion as
much as faces.

M
ost of the time, authors concentrate their step-by-step instructions
on painting faces as the focal point of any figure. But hands are just
as important and shouldn’t be overlooked. Hands that look like they
were painted as an afterthought can mar an otherwise beautifully
finished figure and destroy the overall effect of a vignette or diorama.
To demonstrate hand care, I painted one of Tamiya’s recently released German
tank crewmen (No. 35354). These plastic figures are beautifully molded.

Next Issue Paints used


As part of FSM’s Vietnam special in Scale 75 Light Skin SC-18 Vallejo Surface Primer Light Gray
February, Joe shows how he painted Scale 75 Golden Skin SC-19 Vallejo Model Color Beige Red 70.804
the uniform of the Battle of Huê´ U.S. Scale 75 Indian Shadow SC-23 Vallejo Model Color Mahogany Brown 70.846
Marine seen at the top of this story. Scale 75 African Shadow SC-24 Vallejo Model Color Flat Black 70.950

18 FineScale Modeler January 2018


1 2 3
I base-coated the assembled figure with gray As a base for the flesh, I mixed beige red and For the first layer of shadows, I mixed beige red
primer, then painted the areas around the mahogany brown. I make this layer a little and Indian shadow and applied several thin
hands flat black. This frames, or blocks in, the darker than the base color I use on faces glazes to the areas below the wrists, the
hands so I can better see what I am doing. because it will help with the shadows later. section of fingers below the knuckles, and
under the right hand.

4 5 6 7
Adding progressively more Indian For highlights, I mixed beige red Adding progressively more To further brighten the hands, I
shadow to the mix darkened and golden skin. (These colors are golden skin to the mix produced mixed light skin and golden skin
subsequent shadow applications from different manufacturers, but brighter highlights. Brushing on and brushed it over the highest
as I added three or four layers, blended just fine.) Thin glazes of several thin, controlled glazes spots and the center of other
each slightly narrower than the this shade were added to wrists prevented uneven color buildup. I highlights.
one before. I left off the deepest and knuckles. painted fine lines along tendons.
shadows until after applying
highlights to get a better feel for
the hands.

8 9 10
Returning to the shadows, I brushed thin With the shadows in place, I finalized As a crowning touch, I added veins to the
African shadow around the wrists, between highlights by painting very thin light skin on backs of the hands. First, I brushed fine lines of
the fingers, and under the tanker’s right hand. top of knuckles and the uppermost edges of a mix of mahogany brown and Indian shadow;
Adding a little black to African shadow fingers. Less diluted light skin colored the parallel lines of a mix of light skin and golden
separated the fingers. fingernails. skin made the blood vessels stand out. FSM

www.FineScale.com 19
How to build an
oddball Tiger
Aftermarket Zimmerit and add-ons for the mismatched F13
BY BILL PLUNK

From the bottom up


I replaced the kit tracks with workable plas-
tic Modelkasten Tiger I Late tracks, which
include a jig that holds five links at a time.
Each link has two separate guide horns.

T
iger F13 is a rolling contradiction — a hybrid tank cob- Using the magic number of 94 links per
bled together with components from motley vehicles side, I assembled two runs with the charac-
teristic Tiger sag.
from training schools and unit remnants. It comprises I added the rear hull plate and side
an early production turret with Zimmerit, a midproduction plates, using a sprue spreader to correct a
hull, and late-production steel wheels! A part of the Gruppe slight warp at the front hull so the glacis
and superstructure plates would mate prop-
Fehrmann scratch unit, it saw action late in the war as part of erly, 1.
last-ditch German defenses.
Only a couple of poor-quality photos are known, but they Adding Zimmerit
I removed the front left mud flap for inter-
prove that this tank did exist. I referred to the grainy images as I est, taking care to leave the supporting lip
built Cyber-hobby’s White Box limited-edition Gruppe from the main armor plate intact. Using
Gator’s Grip Thin Blend glue, I added Atak
Fehrmann Tiger I (No. 6335). I also used Atak resin Zimmerit Zimmerit panels to the glacis, front super-
(No. 35032), designed for Dragon’s late Tigers. structure, and hull nose plates off the

20 FineScale Modeler January 2018


1 2 3
I test-fitted the Modelkasten track runs with Testors cement won’t affect resin, but it softens Using curved scissors, I cut the thin resin to
the adjustable idler to get the proper sag. the underlying plastic to serve as a glue. show damaged Zimmerit on the left side …

4 5 6
… but I left the right side pristine. The rear Zimmerit left room for mufflers. Photo-etched clamps secure tools.

7 8 9
I didn’t modify the turret’s right-side Zimmerit. Gaps on the left depict a missing bin. Before painting, I test-fitted the turret and hull.

model. I followed that up with Testors liq- unneeded Feifel air cleaners. Also filled sanded the area smooth. With a pencil, I
uid cement around the panel edges to lock were the square openings created by the marked the areas that wouldn’t have
them down, 2. Small amounts of Squadron misalignment of the gun cleaning-rod received Zimmerit had the bin been in
White putty filled in a couple of gaps and holders, due to the different types of hull place, then outlined the area covered by the
blended the panels with the kit parts. The parts used in the kit. commander’s pistol port. Lastly, I marked
plates were then installed. A pair of com- For the front part of the main deck, I out the left-side spare-track supports using
pression clamps pressed the sides and roof used Griffon PE tool clamps, 6. Blu-tack the panel openings as a spacing guide. The
together, creating a solid join. masked the periscopes. Atak panels are thin and translucent, so I
I used small, curved scissors to carefully I replaced the kit’s mantlet with Atak’s could see the pencil marks through them
remove key parts from the Atak side panel, part, complete with Zimmerit, then and know where I needed to cut.
creating damage on the left side, 3. The attached an RB Models brass MG34 coax- I attached the right-side panel first, add-
right side was added as a whole piece with- ial machine gun with super-glue gel to ing resin viewport covers and the escape
out damage, 4. detail this area. The kit’s recoil sleeve and hatch, 7.
On the rear hull plate, I added the 8.8cm main gun with muzzle brake finished I cut the left panel down significantly
Zimmerit first and then the exhausts, mud the mantlet. and added the armored viewport without
flaps, and tow hooks, 5. Matching details and Zimmerit on the Zimmerit, 8.
turret to photos of F13 proved a little tricky, Leftover Zimmerit covered the pistol
Hull top and turret since the kit’s early-style turret didn’t port, and a small patch was added to the
I added in the engine access panels and the account for spare-track holders. The tank front top edge of the turret for some added
kit-supplied photo-etch (PE) screens. Small lacked a turret bin, so I filled the mounting detail, 9. Nothing went to waste with this
amounts of putty filled the locators for the holes with sheet styrene, then puttied and build!

www.FineScale.com 21
10 11 12
I began painting with an overall primer of dark A base coat of panzer dunkelgelb and light For the second camouflage color, I airbrushed
brown, followed by patches of red oxide. gray followed. Italian olive green.

13 14 15
Then I applied red-brown. Note the difference Removing the masks revealed the red oxide I painted spare track links with burnt umber;
in the patterns on the hull and turret. exposed by the damaged Zimmerit. dry-brushed steel highlighted wear.

16 17 18
Black artist’s pastels produced smoke stains on After highlighting the edges of the chipped … and on the front of the hull.
the already weathered exhausts. Zimmerit, I added spare track on the turret …

Time for paint I wanted the hull and turret patterns to hull runs, and I used the Modelkasten links
I used Testors Model Master enamel paints be different from each other, so the two for the turret racks. The spare tracks were
for this project except where noted. were painted separately and the pattern airbrushed with burnt umber, lightly dry-
First, I airbrushed a primer coat of applied freehand. Over the base coat I brushed with steel and given a wash of
Italian dark brown over the vehicle, includ- applied Italian olive green, then added the thinned leather. A dusting with orange art-
ing the road wheels and running gear. third camouflage color using a 50:50 mix of ist pastels finished their look, 15.
I mixed a custom red oxide primer using leather and military brown, The exhausts were fin-
12, 13.
April 1945
9 parts insignia red and 1 part flat black, ished in a similar fashion,
and airbrushed the damaged Zimmerit I misted a thin base coat minus the steel dry-
areas and the exposed area on the turret, 10. — 9 parts thinner to 1 part brushing and with the
Once dry, this area was masked off. paint — over the model to addition of black artist pas-
I used a mix of equal parts panzer dun- blend the colors and mute The date Gruppe tels as exhaust staining, 16.
kelgelb and light gray for the base coat, air- the camouflage. Fehrmann For the damaged
brushing the hull, turret and the exposed From there, the mask- formed. The Zimmerit areas, I picked out
faces of the road wheels, 11. ing came off the red oxide unit comprised chipped edges with a light
Photos showed that F13 was missing areas, 14. Most of the tan color, then dry-brushed
side fenders. To re-create this, I masked off paint work was now six Tiger tanks with horizontal strokes to re-
the attachment line so that there would be complete. and five create residue captured in the
a clean break in how far down the pattern The kit included Panthers, texture. The spare tracks were
extended — as if the pattern had been set individual spare links then installed in their holders,
while the fenders were attached. that were used for the
numbered 17, 18.
F01 to F13.
22 FineScale Modeler January 2018
19 20 21
I painted the tow cables and tools in position. After brushing steel onto contact points on the The tank doesn’t have many markings, but I
wheels, I applied washes and dry-brushing. settled the numbers with Solvaset.

22 23 24
The first step in the weathering process was an A pinwash enhanced hull and turret details. I painted the tracks burnt umber, flowed on a
overall Ammo wash sealed with PFM. raw umber wash, and dry-brushed steel.

25 26 27
My mud recipe included Mig dry mud, water, Another dry-brushing of steel highlighted the To finish, I added a convoy light and radio
and liquid dish soap. tracks treads and guide horns. antenna. My unique Tiger was ready to roll.

I used non-buffing Metalizer gunmetal Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) over the After an airbrushed base coat of burnt
for the tow cables and metal portions of the entire vehicle to protect the paint work umber, the tracks were heavily dry-brushed
tools, followed by a dry-brushing of steel, from the weathering. F13’s markings were with steel and given an overall wash of raw
19. The wood portions of the tools were limited to hastily applied turret numbers; umber, 24.
painted with a base coat of equal parts light the kit-supplied decals were added and I weathered the tracks with pigments by
gray and Afrika grunbraun followed by a Solvaset was used to ensure they con- applying a wet mix of Mig Productions dry
wash of leather and raw umber artist pas- formed to the complex surfaces and mud using tap water with a drop of liquid
tels. Zimmerit. Once the decals had set, a sec- dish soap added to break its surface tension,
The bare-metal contact surfaces of the ond coat of PFM sealed them, 21. 25. The mix was added and left to air-dry;
road wheels, sprockets, and idlers were The first step in the weathering process then excess pigment was removed with a
detailed with Metalizer steel and dry- was an overall wash of Ammo Afrika brush. I dry-brushed some additional steel
brushed with burnt umber. I also stippled Korps wash, 22. After it was blended and on the cleat faces to highlight them, 26. I
some burnt umber to show chipping and adjusted with clean thinner, I airbrushed a applied the dry mud pigment as a dry pow-
scuffing. light coat of PFM to preserve it. der to the road wheels. The tracks were then
To these areas, I applied Ammo by Mig Dot filters came next. I used a combina- installed.
Jimenez Afrika Korps wash, then dry- tion of flat white, raw sienna, and the cus- The last remaining details were added in
brushed the base coat mix over that. The tom base-coat mix. The Zimmerit required the form of the rear convoy light and a
wheels were added and the sprockets and a horizontal application to achieve the brass RB Models 2-meter radio antenna,
idlers left movable to support the tracks to desired effect. This was followed by a pin- 27.
come, 20. wash using the Afrika Korps wash, 23. The F13 was now ready to head out for one
I airbrushed a coat of Pledge FloorCare work was sealed with lusterless flat. last battle before the end! FSM

www.FineScale.com 23
Relax and build a
Mustang
Easy details and weathering
for Tamiya’s 1/48 scale P-51D

BY RAÚL CORRAL AMS stands for


Advanced Modeler
Syndrome — and if you
suffer from it, a basic
build of a solid kit can
rejuvenate your juices.
An old reliable, like
Tamiya’s 1/48 scale
P-51D, can be just what
you need to reinstall fun
on your workbench.

W
orking on a never-ending project? Tired of filling,
sanding, dry-fitting, and sanding some more? I was — Checkertail
and there was no better medicine than a kit like Tamiya’s Clan
1/48 scale P-51D (No. 61040).
Relax, sit comfortably, put on some music, and enjoy the model. – Name given
Released in 1994, it is a fantastic piece of engineering and a the 325th
remarkable demonstration of detail and simplicity. Just two sprues Fighter Group
provide everything you need for a really good-looking Mustang to by “Axis Sally”
add to your World War II collection. in German radio
What got me going was a decal sheet from Eagle Strike (No. propaganda
48090, “Checkertail Clan Pt. I”) including three colorful Mustangs
from the 325th Fighter Group operating in the Mediterranean
Theater of Operations (MTO). I chose Stinker Pat (P-51D-15,
44-15131), flown in the 317th Fighter Interceptor Squadron by
Maj. George Hamilton, who named his aircraft after his young son.

24 FineScale Modeler January 2018


1 2
I began the cockpit with a base coat of Tamiya flat black (XF-1). I mixed my own interior green: 50% Tamiya deep green (XF-26), 25%
Tamiya light blue (XF-23), and 25% LifeColor RLM 04 (UA 140) yellow
(but any acrylic yellow would do).

3 4
I added Eduard’s precolored photo-etch for Tamiya’s P-51B (product I base-coated the floor with an acrylic 60-40 mix of GSI Creos chocolate
No. EDPFE219) to the cockpit walls and pilot’s seat. This kit comes “silver brown (406) and Tamiya flat red (XF-7), then brushed streaks of LifeColor
color-plated,” but I painted over that. yellow for wood grain. Other details were Tamiya flat black and flat
aluminum.

5 6
I wanted a yellow undercoat for a bright checkertail, but coverage with Back to the cockpit: After a few finishing touches, dry-brushing with
yellow can be tricky. I primed the area with Tamiya flat white before Humbrol light gray matt enamel (64) makes edges and raised details
spraying several light coats at low pressure with GSI Creos semigloss stand out.
RLM 04 yellow (413).

www.FineScale.com 25
7 8
Before the fuselage is joined, a light spray of Humbrol clear varnish matt Now it’s starting to look like a Mustang! After joining the fuselage
enamel reduces any gloss from the previous interior painting and dry- halves, more yellow: white primer, then MTO stripes for the wings;
brushing. hand-brushed touch-up, then a light airbrushing for the tail.

9 10
Red markings on the nose, spinner, and wingtips were airbrushed with Before airbrushing the airframe, I masked MTO and unit markings with
Tamiya flat red. At this stage I also painted the propeller blades, masking Tamiya tape. I also carefully masked the stabilizer roots, since they are
the yellow tips. metallic, not yellow.

11 12
Overall, I airbrushed Tamiya chrome silver (X-11). Next, several panels were called out with a different metallic shade, a 3:1
mix of chrome silver and Tamiya gunmetal (X-10 ). Make sure the
masking tape is low-tack; you don’t want to pull up any paint.

26 FineScale Modeler January 2018


13 14
I airbrushed a light coat of Tamiya gloss clear (X-22) to prepare for After protecting the checkertail with a light coat of Tamiya clear, I
decals. Then came the best — and most challenging — part of the masked and painted the antiglare panel Tamiya flat olive drab (XF-62),
model. With the proper cuts, the Eagle Strike decals even fit the tail- being careful to protect the immaculate chrome silver surface.
wheel door!

15 16
To weather selectively and add contrast, I mixed different metallic Go easy: Do the washes quickly but gently, and only once, to lessen the
washes: Humbrol metallic silver enamel (11) and Metalcote acrylic risk to underlying paint. Don’t forget the underside.
polished aluminum (27002), each of them mixed 3:1 with Humbrol
black matt (33).

17 18
I detailed the main landing gear with brake lines made of metal wire Back to the main airframe: Another coat of Tamiya clear gloss prepared
from a bottle of good Spanish red wine; the wire is painted flat black. the kit for the major decaling. I over-coated with another coat of clear,
On the tires, a wash of Humbrol red brown (100) over Tamiya flat black then let it dry for 48 hours before further weathering.
brought out the tread.

www.FineScale.com 27
19 20 21
I thin a 1:1 mix of brown and flat black artist’s After a few minutes, I begin removing/cleaning The more thinner you use to clean up excess,
oils and use my finest-tipped brush to apply excess wash using a cotton swab damp with the cleaner the final result.
the wash to panel lines and rivets. Humbrol thinner.

22 23 24
Naturally, the longer you use a swab the dirtier You can add dirt with a brush; wait for it to dry I applied additional washes to outline the gun
it gets. (Nothing new here.) With this dirty before applying more. To replicate dust and compartments. When to stop is up to you.
swab you can apply additional dust and dirt to grime, I change my weathering ratio to 7:3
certain areas of the aircraft that should show (brown/black).
more wear.

25 26 27
I used a pencil to place scuff marks where the Using a fine brush and Humbrol Metalcote … and on the antiglare panel, I used a sewing
crew and pilots would walk. aluminum matt (27001), I chipped the needle to make sure the chips were small
propeller blade’s leading edges … enough.

28 FineScale Modeler January 2018


28 29 30
Exhaust stains and gunsmoke were painted by I added some wiring to the radio and batteries Drop tanks, painted and weathered same as
dry-brushing Humbrol flat black enamel. behind the pilot’s seat. the airframe: I made hoses with fine rubber
tubing from my spares, brush-painting with
flat black enamel and using a sewing needle to
paint flat silver hose clamps.

31 32 33
I attached the canopy with Humbrol Clearfix Just a touch of Clearfix gave navigation and Nearing the end, I used a fine brush to hand-
— a delicate moment I wish Tamiya had formation lights a glassy look. paint the molded .50-caliber machine gun
spared me by molding the frame and canopy barrels with Humbrol gunmetal (53),
as one piece. immediately dry-brushing with Humbrol
Metalcote aluminum matt.

Dry-brushed flat black

Varied panel shades Fitted decals

MTO stripe
Rubber tubing for fuel lines
Aluminum matt chipping
Wire for brake lines
Clearfix for glass
After airbrushing light coats of Tamiya clear gloss to unify the weathering effects, I let everything dry for 48 hours. Finally, I sprayed several light
coats of Humbrol enamel varnish matt, including the checkertail but increasing the contrast by avoiding areas where the natural-metal finish was
less weathered. It was the finishing touch for Stinker Pat. FSM

www.FineScale.com 29
SHOW GALLERY

IPMS/USA
Nationals 2017
Hundreds of terrific
models covered the
tables at the 2017 DAVID FALK
APPLETON, WISCONSIN
International Plastic David says his 1/25 scale
Modelers Society/USA Caterpillar 594 pipelayer is 99%
National Convention at scratchbuilt. The seat cushions
the La Vista Conference came from an AMT truck kit;
everything else is styrene and
Center in suburban metal. He painted the unique
Omaha, Neb. FSM’s vehicle with Floquil railroad
Mark Savage and Aaron paints — the old stuff — and
Skinner were there and weathered with pastels and real
sand on the tracks.
took these photos.
The 2018 convention
will be held August 1-4
at the Phoenix
Convention Center in
the heart of Phoenix,
Ariz. For info: www.
ipmsusanationals2018.
com.

More great models


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+ DAN JAYNE
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2017. Order your copy today
at KalmbachHobbyStore.com.

30 FineScale Modeler January 2018


▲ RICHARD VAN ZANDT
OLIVE BRANCH, MISSISSIPPI
Richard replaced the landing gear
legs on AMK’s 1/48 scale MiG-31
with cast-metal parts and resin
tires. Over a black base coat, he
airbrushed pre-shading patches
of blue, yellow, and brown, then
applied the gray camouflage
using Mr. Paint acrylic lacquers.

◀ DJORDJE NIKOLIĆ
FIFE, WASHINGTON
Djordje reduced a map of France
to 1/48 scale for two Luftwaffe
pilots to consult next to Tamiya’s
Kübelwagen. He painted the vehi-
cle with Vallejo acrylics, then
weathered it with enamel washes
and powdered pigments for mud.
The ground is plaster decorated
with kitty litter, model railroad
grass, and leaves.
▶ RON BRITT
MUSTANG, OKLAHOMA
Ron customized Moebius’ 1/18
scale Batpod with cables, wires,
and scratchbuilt monoshock and
oil reservoir. He painted the bike
and Batman’s fiendish feline
counterpart, Catwoman, with
Tamiya acrylics.

www.FineScale.com 31
SHOW GALLERY

▲ ROGER TORGESON ▼ DANA SMITH


SEQUIM, WASHINGTON WEAVERVILLE, NORTH CAROLINA
Roger raised some decks and lowered others to convert Trumpeter’s 1/350 scale To model a recently landed DUKW on a beach awaiting
USS North Carolina into USS Washington. Other changes include: correcting the contour off-loading instructions, Dana filled the bed with stow-
of the stem, ends to the armor belt, outboard shaft shape, V struts, and bilge keels; age and covered it with a net, then added rope bum-
replacing the boat booms; adding eyebrows to the bow; replacing molded deck details; pers, hung chains on the bow, and an improved muffler.
using resin main turrets; and correcting locations of the 20mm guns. He painted the He painted the Italeri 1/72 scale model with True Earth
battleship with Testors Model Master acrylics. acrylics and filters.

32 FineScale Modeler January 2018


▲ RICHARD C. ENGAR ▲ JIM CHURCH
SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH SAGINAW, MICHIGAN
Richard built Roden’s 1/144 scale C-124C out of the box and used custom decals to “It’s a Welsh warrior from the 1270s,” says Jim. He finished
mark it as the Globemaster II flown by Sen. Jake Garn when he was in the Utah Air the Andrea Miniatures 54mm figure with Vallejo acrylics,
National Guard. The model was painted with Testors enamels and lacquers. “I made including five different washes. Pigments and pastels pro-
two of these and presented one to Senator Garn in June,” Richard says. vided highlights.

▲ ALEC KIRIKAVA
APPLETON, WISCONSIN
Alec improved Dragon’s 1/72 scale P-61A by scratchbuilding the belly gun bay as well as the wheel wells, and adding Aires resin. He painted the
Black Widow with Testors Model Master acrylics.

www.FineScale.com 33
SHOW GALLERY

▲ SERGIO LAURENZANO
NEUQUÉN, NEUQUÉN, ARGENTINA
Sergio improved Aoshima’s 1/350 scale Japanese I-41 with Alliance Model Work railings and AFV Club photo-etched details. Mixing Tamiya acrylics
with Tamiya lacquer thinner, he airbrushed the sub gray, then masked and sprayed the lower half red. Next, he airbrushed thin, fine gray splotches
to weather the submarine.

▶ EARL PETRIKIN
CLEARWATER, FLORIDA
Earl spent five years building and
painting Pocher’s 1/8 scale Alfa
Romeo 8c 2300 Monza. He had to
modify all of the body panels for
fit, replaced all of the screws with
bolts, nuts, and pins, relocated
the oil tank, scratchbuilt the
windshield and fender arms, and
upholstered the seats with
genuine leather.

◀ KEVIN WENKER
PEORIA, ARIZONA
On Sept. 29, 1918, American
fighter ace and Medal of Honor
recipient Lt. Frank Luke was
wounded by ground fire and
landed behind the German lines;
he died soon after. To model
Luke’s final moments, Kevin cut
and repositioned the control sur-
faces and scratchbuilt a cockpit
for Hobbycraft’s 1/32 scale SPAD
XIII; Aviattic decals over Tamiya
and Mission Models’ acrylics fin-
ished the plane. The ace is a repo-
sitioned Andrea Miniatures’
figure.
◀ EUGENE MARDAR
McCORDSVILLE, INDIANA
After adding antennas and
navigation lights to Zvezda’s
1/144 scale Airbus A320, Eugene
marked it for Air Moldova with
Pas Decals.

▶ ERIK ZABEL
ST. PAUL, MINNESOTA
Soviet pilots liked the Airacobra,
and more than 4,700 were sent to
the USSR during World War II
under the Lend-Lease program.
Erik built one from Eduard’s 1/48
scale P-39N with photo-etched
details and resin exhausts, then
painted it with Testors Model
Master enamels. Poster putty pro-
vided masking, and he weathered
the fighter with washes, pastels,
and pre- and post-shading.

www.FineScale.com 35
SHOW GALLERY

JOHN CURATOLA
KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI
Early B-29s operating from bases
in India wore olive drab and neu-
tral gray camouflage, as seen on
John’s 1/72 scale Academy
Superfortress. He detailed the
bomb bays and engines and air-
brushed the model with Testors
Model Master enamels.

▶ BRETT AVANTS
ST. CHARLES, MISSOURI
Brett built Academy’s 1/35 scale
Korean War T-34/85 out of the box
and painted it with Ammo by Mig
Jimenez’s Russian 4BO green
modulation set. Extensive weath-
ering followed, including washes,
highlights, pigments, and rain
streaking. The angled ground-
work is Celluclay over styrene
foam.

36 FineScale Modeler January 2018


STEVE ROSARIO
OLATHE, KANSAS
This is one of six Polar Lights 1/1000
scale Enterprises Steve has built —
each corresponds to a favorite Star
Trek episode, including this one for
“Space Seed.” He scribed panel lines
on the primary hull and replaced the
kit windows with homemade decals.
He painted the Federation starship
and the SS Botany Bay with Testors
Model Master enamels over black
pre-shading, and weathered
the sleeper ship with pastels.

◀ PAUL JOHNSTON
ADELL, WISCONSIN
Nice ride! Paul painted Tamiya’s
1983 Honda CR-X with Tamiya
Italian red, masked with Tamiya
tape, and sprayed Tamiya gloss
aluminum on the lower body.
Photo-etched badges and India
ink flowed into panel and door
lines finished the sports car.

▶ KEN NILES
FAYETTEVILLE, GEORGIA
“A ragged, rugged Marine Corsair
in the island campaign,” says Ken
of his out-of-the-box Tamiya 1/48
scale F4U-1. He painted and post-
shaded the camouflage with Mr.
Paint acrylic lacquers over a base
coat of Alclad II dull aluminum.
Gently scraping the upper layers
chipped the paint to reveal bare
metal.

www.FineScale.com 37
Decking out a
Nimitz-class carrier
Cut up and correct Italeri’s carrier-deck section
BY HUGO PETIERS

F
or years, builders of modern naval aircraft
in 1/72 scale have felt left behind when it
comes to diorama accessories. So I was
excited when Italeri produced a large Nimitz-
class carrier-deck section (No. 1326).
I had already built a Hasegawa F-14A Tomcat
and thought I would be placing it on an assem-
bled surface in no time. This was far from the
truth…
The good parts of the kit are: 1) the tie-downs on the deck look
realistic; 2) there’s a posable hatch (opened or closed) for the cata-
pult operator’s position; and 3) the carrier deck is made of a sturdy 1
piece of plastic. The downright ugly is: 1) the rows of tie-downs are not parallel with the
The bad parts are: 1) the box art makes you think that you can deck plates, which are oriented in the ship’s direction of movement; 2)
make bow catapult No. 2, which you can’t; 2) the decals of the deck the jet blast deflector (JBD) is supposed to be at a right angle to the
lines are much too wide and the yellow lines too short; and 3) the deck plates, which it is not; and 3) the catapult is at a wrong angle and
antislip surface on the deck seems coarse for this scale. too close to the JBD. Time to get out the hobby knife.

38 FineScale Modeler January 2018


2
I settled on making the waist catapult No. 3 of the USS Theodore Roosevelt. To make an accurate Nimitz-class carrier, I would have to cut up the deck
and reposition the catapult and JBD, putting them at the correct angle. For safety’s sake, I practiced on a sheet of paper, making sure that all parts
would align again later.

3
Moving back to the plastic, I dug the same pattern originally on the paper into the deck with a scribing tool, carefully breaking those pieces off. The
loose pieces were rearranged and glued in the correct position.

4 5
The back was reinforced with styrene strip. I filled gaps with putty and By adjusting the angle of the catapult, some tie-downs became
sanded everything smooth. All of the deck lines were restored with a misaligned. I moved these around on the deck. After finishing the new
scribing tool. edge around the diorama with styrene sheet, the biggest part of the
reconstruction was done. Whew!

www.FineScale.com 39
6 7
Next, a layer of gray paint helped me check the flatness and smoothness Photos show that the texture of the antislip coating on a carrier’s deck is
of the surface. A black pre-shading of the newly made deck lines was slightly different around the seams of the deck panels. I tried to
followed by a few thin layers of lightened gunship gray paint. re-create the look of these lines by airbrushing them with a slightly
lighter gray color.

8 9
Going for realism: Subtle color variation was achieved by applying I added the white, yellow, and red lines and painted the outlines of an
clouds of lighter shades of gray between the deck panels and tie- access hatch next to the JBD. A piece of 1200-grit sanding paper
downs. removed some of the deck lines. I wish I had put on a layer of varnish
before painting the lines, but it still worked. Luckily, I did not sand
through the gray paint, so no touch-ups were necessary.

10 11
Preshading, paints, and pinwashes brought color to the six plates of A pinwash of all nooks and crannies with Rembrandt raw umber and
the JBD. I waited until the end of the build process to attach them on black artist’s oils came next. Dry-brushing the tie-downs with light gray
the deck. made them stand out. Layers of matt varnish sealed the deck.

40 FineScale Modeler January 2018


12
In my research, I noticed quite a few tire marks around the catapult. How to paint those in a realistic way? Well, what better way than with actual tire
marks! I made a rolling contraption with one large Lego wheel for rolling paint on the deck, and another wheel wrapped with insulation tape to
absorb the paint and act as a reservoir. My contraption worked so well that the effect was exaggerated. Dabbing away excess paint with a
turpentine-soaked cloth left me with the desired effect .

A set of 1/72 scale crew from Fujimi added scale to


the display’s size. It took much more work than I initially
expected, but the final result was worth the effort. My
Tomcat is now ready for launch. FSM
A few improvements
and nice paint
for an A-3B

BY STEVE EVANS

F
or no reason other than size, the A-3B Skywarrior is one released in a variety of guises — and you can get aftermarket bits
of the most impressive U.S. Navy aircraft ever. Known as to convert them into a bunch more.
the “Whale,” the aircraft comes in different shapes for a It features fully engraved panel lines with nice crisp detail. There
variety of missions, which only adds to its desirability in is very little flash, few shrink marks, and the panel fasteners are
model form. well done with only the larger “bolt”-type fasteners and no rivets
Relatively new, Hasegawa’s 1/72 scale Skywarrior has been on show, fully appropriate for this scale.

1 2 3
The cockpit’s simple detail belies the kit’s age. The cockpit fits neatly into the fuselage with The J-57 engines are each represented by just
There are basic seats and consoles with decal the nose wheel bay. Don’t forget to add weight the starter bullet, the compressor fan, and the
dials. I added masking tape seat belts and up front, as the Skywarrior is a natural tail- turbine inside the pod halves, but that suits
carefully painted the area. sitter. There’s plenty of room in the nose. the scale.

42 FineScale Modeler January 2018


4 5 6
Filler and sanding corrected mismatches The alignment of the engine pylons with the As molded, the horizontal stabilizers point up
between the wing and fuselage. wings left much to be desired, but a little filler too much. A little sanding at the mating edges
and sanding fixed that also. corrected the dihedral.

7 8 9
All that filler and sanding eliminated panel After attaching details including the masked I airbrushed the upper surfaces with GSI Creos
lines. I sprayed the repair work with Alclad II canopy, I sprayed the model with Alclad II acrylic light gull gray (H315) mixed with Mr.
gray primer and micro filler to reveal any primer and pre-shaded panel lines with dark Color Leveling Thinner.
problems and provide a smooth surface to gray.
rescribe lost details.

10 11 12
To mask hard edges, I applied Tamiya tape; Blu- More masking followed so I could paint the Once I had painted the intakes red and the
Tack poster putty worked perfectly for softer black antiglare panel and nose as well as the airbrushed Alclad II metallic around the
demarcations. Then, I airbrushed Tamiya white radome. I used GSI Creos acrylic off white (H21) engines, I dragged gray and burnt umber
under the plane. for the last. pastels back from panels and hatches to show
fluid spills and streaks.

13
The nicely molded landing-gear doors, struts,
and wheels look great under a black artist’s oil
wash. I painted most of the antennas and pitot Super glue secured static discharge wicks
tubes before attaching them. made from 1-pound fishing line. FSM

www.FineScale.com 43
READER GALLERY

▲ ▶ DAN JAYNE & CHUCK STEWART


MUSKEGON, MICHIGAN
The late Dan Jayne had a knack for transforming plastic models into some-
thing above and beyond — or below, in the case of Minicraft’s 1/350 scale
Titanic. Sixteen years after modeling the wreck, Dan built a topside version of
the same kit. Among the superdetailing was drilling out 964 portholes. “Yeah,”
he said, “I counted them. Phew!” You can see more of Dan’s works (also photo-
graphed by Chuck Stewart) in the latest edition of Great Scale Modeling 2017,
available on newsstands now.

◀ DON CZECH
CAPE CORAL, FLORIDA
Don built Monogram’s 1/48 scale
Cessna 180 — “probably more
like 1/43 or maybe 1/40,” says
Don — to be a news plane, add-
ing STOL winglets and a luggage
trunk under the fuselage. He
made the cowl removable to
show off his thoroughly plumbed
engine. The cabin also was
upgraded, with resin seats, dash-
board, and wood flooring. Don
made the cargo hatch functional
and says it fits perfectly.

44 FineScale Modeler January 2018


▲ JOSE ALBERTO ALBITES TAPIA
LA CHORRERA, PANAMA OESTE,
PANAMA
Revell’s 1/48 scale Huey got a makeover from
Jose when he painted it with Testors Model
Master colors and made his own decals to
show it in the Panamanian air force (Fuerza
Aérea Panameña) in 1976.
◀ CHARLIE PANZERA
WESLEY CHAPEL, FLORIDA
Tamiya’s 1/35 scale 105mm M4A3 and
accompanying figures wear a deft paint job
by Charlie, who finished the Sherman with
acrylic colors and weathered with artist’s oils
and pigments.

▲ BRIAN SCHUTT
CORAL SPRINGS, FLORIDA
Attaching a plastic tray to a wood display
▲ JASON NIKL base, Brian created a seaside setting for
ARLINGTON, TEXAS PiLiPiLi’s 120mm Pirate of Tortuga, 1670. He
Jason says this is his first attempt at weathering; he used Ammo by Mig Jimenez products. Still fashioned the water and waves from resin
more impressive, he scratchbuilt this 1/24 scale Hitachi 870 excavator from “mostly styrene and handpainted the crab basking in the
sheet and a few 3-D-printed pieces,” he says. He up-scaled it from a 1/50 scale die-cast digger. shallow surf.

www.FineScale.com 45
3-D printing
opens up the
hobby’s frontiers

BY ROBERT F. LaPORTA

Download 3-D
files and
information:
www.nasa3d.
arc.nasa.gov/
detail/new-
horizons

46 FineScale Modeler January 2018


1 2 3
The New Horizons kit comprises four parts -- Most of the scaffolding is easily pried off with … or sliced off with a sharp hobby knife.
the antenna, left and right body halves, and gentle pressure and pulling …
the radioisotope thermal generator.

4 5 6
After sawing away sections of the antenna, I To maintain the dish’s curve, I ran the motor Before gluing the new antenna base into the
finished the first step with a cut-off wheel in a tool at slow speed and gradually removed the dish, I chamfered the edge to match the
motor tool. excess. contour. Clamps held it hard against the dish
as the glue set.

O
n July, 14, 2015, NASA’s New Horizons spacecraft passed within 8,000 miles of the surface
of Pluto at 30,900 miles per hour. This mission completed the U.S. reconnaissance of every
major and minor planet in our solar system.
To celebrate this milestone, NASA pro- Fortunately for modelers, Mylar thermal care of the initial step, 4. After shaving
vided files to construct a 1/12 scale model blankets cover the vast majority of New more of the base with a No.18 chisel blade,
of the probe using a 3-D printer. They offer Horizons, so the condition of the surface is I eliminated the underlying honeycomb
hundreds of other models, too. In addition not a big concern. with a sanding bit in a motor tool, 5.
to the STL printer files, the download Of the kit’s four parts, 1, the antenna I cut .6mm styrene to match the shape
includes 1/12 scale PDF plans that are a presented the greatest challenge. The of the missing material and glued it over
gold mine of information for finishing the medium- and low-gain support structures the opening, 6.
model. I printed the parts at my local are solid blocks, but they should be frames. Using a chisel, I scraped the edge of the
library; they have a 3-D printer that I planned to remove them and scratchbuilt triangle to blend it with the part. Then I
patrons can use for 50 cents an hour. replacements. smoothed the dish with a flexible block to
First, I removed the material, also called begin mitigating the ridges left by the
Parts is parts scaffolding, used to support sections of the printer.
Pieces made on a 3-D printer are a little part that might otherwise fall during print- Research indicated three methods to
different from the styrene kit parts most of ing, 2 and 3. Be careful to remove only the eliminate the ridges on 3-D printed parts.
us know. The printed plastic is much harder, scaffolding and not part of the model — One involves melting the surface with ace-
more akin to resin. Unlike resin, printed check the plans frequently. tone vapor. Upon testing, it resulted in
parts are usually hollow and use a honey- nasty, flammable vapors and over-softened
comb internal structure for support. The Dish it out the thin plastic.
most obvious difference is the rough surface I removed the solid antenna support in sev- The second process I tested was brush-
produced by the layered printing. eral stages. A saw and a motor tool took ing two-part epoxy over the surface and let

www.FineScale.com 47
7 8 9
After all the work to remove the kit’s solid The lid wasn’t sturdy enough to support the The scratchbuilt heat shield, missing from the
antenna, the wire replacement is a welcome wire for the low-gain antenna to come, so I kit, will go between the body of the spacecraft
sight. The feed horn for the main antenna is a reinforced it with a ring of .6mm styrene. and the RTG.
Lego piece I requisitioned from my son’s
collection.

10 11 12
Working slowly, I applied pieces of the self- I painted each of the bolts silver off the model, Clamps and two-part epoxy make for a strong
adhesive foil to the RTG so that each then attached them with super glue. body that can withstand the rest of the
overlapped the cooling fins. construction process.

13 14 15
The model’s adapter ring is represented as a Using a circle cutter, I produced a perfect It pays to hold onto odds and ends, such as the
solid chunk of plastic, and it’s too big. blanking plate to cover the void left by the modified tape holder that became the
amputated adapter ring. spacecraft’s adapter ring.

it level itself as it dried. I was unable to I airbrushed the antenna with Tamiya the disposable inner cap, to be precise, 8.
achieve a smooth coat because, despite white acrylic. For the support above the new dish, I
being thick, the liquid wanted to flow assembled a frame using stretched sprue
down. Can you hear me now? and 22-gauge hypodermic needles.
I settled on old-school putty, in this case Referring to the plans, I used wire to make Before starting work on the radioisotope
a tube from Tamiya. After repeating this the structure supporting the smaller anten- thermal generator (RTG), I cut an octago-
process several times to be sure all the nas, 7. Looking for a replacement for the nal heat shield from .6mm styrene, 9.
grooves were filled, I brushed on medium-gain antenna, I found what I The RTG has a smooth, dark metal sur-
Mr. Surfacer 500 and sanded again. Finally, needed inside a carton of half-and-half — face, so I covered it with black chrome

48 FineScale Modeler January 2018


16 17
I burnished the film over the surface and into I detailed the inner face of the main camera
corners with a cotton swab. cover with strips of styrene.

Visit MyScienceShop.com
Ever wondered what the
surface of Pluto looks like?
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dwarf planet in the form
of a globe produced from
photos taken by New
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myscienceshop.com/
product/globe/81075
18 19
Before applying the decal flags, I brushed After the glue on the images dried, I sealed the
Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish over the base with two coats of Krylon clear acrylic.
area.

Bare-Metal Foil, 10. Medium-viscosity new part. I scratchbuilt a low-gain Omni sensors, I punched discs from sheet styrene
super glue that I applied with a toothpick antenna and secured it to the body with and glued them in place, 17.
aided the foil’s adhesion in troublesome wire at the end of the build. The only markings worn by New
spots. For added detail, I attached Grandt Horizons were two small American flags; I
Line bolts to the areas between the cooling Mylar covering applied a pair from my decal collection,
fins, 11. Orange-gold Mylar protected the body of preparing the surface with Pledge
New Horizons and the outside of the FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM)
Heavenly body antenna from radiation. Thin Mylar film in and using Microscale Micro Set to settle
To align the halves of the probe’s body dur- all kinds of colors is sold for wrapping gifts them over the crumpled Mylar, 18.
ing assembly, I inserted ¼-inch wooden and making decorations. I used Aleene’s To make a display base for the model, I
dowels into one to match holes in the other. Tacky Glue to attach it — this craft glue is sealed a round wooden plaque with a few
After coating the mating surfaces with plenty sticky but provides working time to coats of polyurethane. I let each coat dry
two-part epoxy, I pressed the body together get the alignment correct. and sanded before brushing on the next.
and clamped it as the glue set, 12. I cut pieces of Mylar roughly the size Then I sprayed the plaque flat black.
The underside of the body features a cir- needed and crumpled them so they would I glued laser-printed photos of Pluto
cular adapter that mated the spacecraft look like multiple layers of insulation. I and Charon, one of its moons, onto the
with the upper stage of the Centaur rocket spread glue over the back of each piece of base with Aleene’s Tacky Glue, 19.
that sent New Horizons on its way, 13. But Mylar then attached them to the model, A 5mm clear acrylic tube attached to
it’s inaccurate, so I sawed it off and covered 16. It’s tedious to cover small spots, but the the base with 5-minute epoxy suspends the
the resulting hole with styrene, 14. results are worth it. model over its planetary target.
Searching my spare parts stash, I found It’s hard to imagine an injection-molded
a plastic ring that once held tape. It was a Go for launch plastic kit of New Horizons ever being
little larger in diameter than the adapter I attached the RTG and antenna with short available. Now, thanks to NASA and 3-D
ring needed to be, so I cut out a section and pieces of dowel for support. To cover the printing, you can have one at home — and
closed the circle, 15. Super glue secured the roughly printed surfaces of the cameras and it’s not that hard to build. FSM

www.FineScale.com 49
Revive an
Airfix relic
Replacement decals and a new nose sharpen a BAC-111 /// BY FRANK CUDEN

Having lain dormant for years, the kit decals were


useless — but an ATP decal sheet not quite as old
made Airfix’s 1/144 scale airliner worth a try.

W
hen I looked at the beat-up
old Airfix 1/144 scale
BAC-111 (No. 903178), it
reminded me of just how
long I’d had it — and when I opened it, the
primitive kit emitted that familiar old-box
bouquet. The British Caledonian decals had
curled and yellowed over the years — a
“someday” kit gone past its day.
Nonetheless, I was able to obtain an
ATP decal sheet for a Pacific Express 1 2
BAC-111 that included windows and Searching through a spares box, I fished out a The kit nose was history — sanding and
windshields. Calling up photos of the plane, drop tank with a tip that would provide a new shaping produced the distinctive point I
I welcomed ATP’s guidance on changing nose; I ran a strip of masking tape around to wanted.
the shape of the nose to make it more mark a straight cut and, with the aid of a miter
pointed. The wing fences would need to be box, sawed off what I needed.
relocated inboard, and ATP covered that
change as well.

50 FineScale Modeler January 2018


Relocated
3 4 wing fences 5
I replaced the kit’s exhaust caps with styrene After smoothing the putty work, I sprayed I saved a lot of time by filling the windows with
tubing, cut to length and thinned with a half- Alclad II gray primer. Note the relocated wing Microscale Kristal Klear. Later, I would correct
oval file and 400-grit sandpaper. Thinned fences, per ATP’s instructions; I cut slits in the the unique Airfix wheel mount you see here.
white glue blended the new sections into the wings and glued .010-inch sheet-styrene Now, I was ready to paint the fuselage white.
engine bodies. “roughs” into the slits and shaped them.

6 7 8
Adding black trim required a lot of measuring I masked and sprayed leading edges with I brushed the old decals with Kristal Klear to
and guesstimation to get it “just so.” I cut the Alclad II airframe aluminum. prevent cracking. To avoid mismatched blacks,
trim decals right up to the edges and used I sliced off the black part of the decal; then I
them as a guide for masks, then airbrushed applied the two shades of gray decal stripe in
Testors gloss black enamel. segments for easier, straighter application.

9 10 11
White striping from Yellow-Wings (No. 48-004) ATP’s sheet provided wing exit markings as I hand-painted the wheel wells and gear legs
edges the two gray bands. I placed the cabin thin yellow outlines; instead, I used those as with Testors steel. Note the cant of the
window decals one by one, coating them each templates to outline white decal sheeting with engines: That’s the way they’re supposed to
with white glue to fill the slight depressions. black Scale-Master striping. be. Thrust-reverser decals came from an ATP
sheet designed for 727s; I cut them to size.

12 13 14
The wing exit arrows came from an old I made an antenna aft of the windscreen with The BAC-111’s APU vent pipe was mounted on
Microscale sheet. You can see how I have .010-inch styrene; I used the same for new gear the fuselage behind the rudder; I cut and
traced panel lines with an artist’s B pencil. Two doors. For nav lights, I notched the wingtips, thinned styrene tubing and painted it with
flat ADF antennas on top are made from .010- filled with Kristal Klear, and painted them with Testors steel — and, with that, I had a sleek
inch sheet styrene and painted flat black. Tamiya clear red and clear green. BAC-111 for my showcase. FSM

www.FineScale.com 51
Whitewash, rinse,
and repeat
Lighten up with an easy camouflage technique /// BY JONATHAN CAMPBELL

I built Dragon’s 1/35 scale PzKpfw IV


Ausf G (No. 6363) and decided to try
my own whitewash technique.

I
wonder if German tankers ever struggled as much as we do Tamiya flat base (TFB) is a water-soluble acrylic resin that can
with winter whitewashes. They tried to make it blend in; we be mixed in to flatten the finish of Tamiya gloss paints. It can be
try to make it stand out. They spent hours; we spend weeks. thinned with Tamiya’s thinner (or most other acrylic thinners). You
And even after we apply a beautiful whitewash, we weather it can add it to Pledge FloorCare Multi-Surface Finish (PFM) to
down with muck and mud. create a strong flat coat. And, unlike most Tamiya paints, TFB can
Whitewash techniques range from airbrushed paint to premade be easily brushed on straight out of the jar. If you’ve ever done that,
mixes. Neither is economical. That and my sinuses’ aversion to any- you know it dries to a white powder that lifts easily. My idea was to
thing enamel are the reasons I decided to try my first whitewash seal this white finish to create a whitewash.
with Tamiya flat base (X-21).

52 FineScale Modeler January 2018


1 2
After Vallejo gray primer, I applied Tamiya German gray (XF-63) and I applied a coat of PFM, then decals. I like how the whitewash looks over
painted the stowed tools. Detail painting is best left until after the the decals; you may prefer to apply the decals after. TFB is easily
whitewash. removed until you seal it.

3 4
I thought to brush on TFB with a small flat brush, similar to how it was I globbed it on and tapped the brush here and there to make it look
applied it in the field. At first it looked faint, but within a minute it haphazard.
turned white.

5 6
After the TFB dried for about two minutes, I used a short, hard-bristled Then I airbrushed more TFB, adding just a few drops of Tamiya thinner
brush to distress it, gently brushing up and down to create streaks and and spraying at about 10 psi. Even if the airbrush spat, the coat still
break up chunks. I used a dry, pointy cotton swab to remove it from looked fine and was workable.
decals.

Meet Jonathan Campbell


Jonathan writes: “I delved into bashed beasts that took I’m more of a “make it look
scale modeling to fill several months and several trips to unique” modeler than an
gaps in a particular Star Wars the hobby store. Since then, “accurizer.” It’s an art and a
toy line discontinued in 2002. I have incorporated German hobby — both of which I try
Eventually, the simple week- World War II aircraft and to enjoy without too much
end repaints became kit- armor in my array of subjects. headache.”

www.FineScale.com 53
7 8
Because the airbrushed layer was much lighter than the hand-brushing, A soft brush works best for distressing airbrushed TFB.
I opted for a softer touch to distress it. Be sure to use a dry swab to
remove TFB from decals; otherwise, it will reappear when it dries.

9 10
A sealant coat of PFM seems to erase the TFB … … but once it dries, the whitewash reappears. However, thinner layers
are diminished, while thicker areas appear more opaque.

11 12
I repeated this process four times: Airbrushed TFB and added more with Artist’s oil washes, paint chips, then a sprinkle of PFM on the muffler: I
a small brush; distressed the finish; swabbed TFB from decals; applied loaded a dry brush with DOA dark rust pigments and tapped it over the
PFM; then used a 4200-grit sanding pad to smooth it out. wet PFM to create a textured, rusty look that topped off my tank. FSM

Top 10 tips for TFB


• TFB absorbs moisture and oils • Tamiya thinner diluted with scale effects with color (similar will make thinner layers disap-
(fingerprints!); I applied oil water or windshield washer to oil fading). pear and whiten thicker areas.
washes only to areas that fluid can remove TFB traces • TFB works for aircraft, too. • TFB dries to a cool white color.
didn’t have much TFB. completely, but you risk the • You can dry-brush with TFB to Clear coats bring out more of a
• TFB looks better airbrushed paint underneath, too. contrast details. basic white, but white paint
than hand-brushed. Hand- • Just brushing or rubbing air- • Alcohol-based thinners will usually stands out a little
brushing may leave edge brushed TFB off will create a make TFB dry too quickly. against TFB.
marks, even after removal. lighter base tone and produce • A clear flat over TFB whitewash • Experiment and have fun!

54 FineScale Modeler January 2018


QUESTIONS & ANSWERS Boring can be exciting
By Mark Hembree

United Nations blue


Q Has FSM ever published an article
about a United Nations vehicle or airplane
in which the source of United Nations blue
paint for models might have been dis- A micro bit in a pin vise is a precise way
cussed? I have tried quite a few blues from to bore into gun barrels or, as in this
various manufacturers but cannot find a picture, a landing gear strut.
close match.
– Bill Snyder Q I’ve read articles about drill-
Fargo, N.D. ing machine-gun barrels. How
about some tips on how to drill
A In its definition of the color azure, Wikipedia
such a small item, such as the
cites U.N. blue as an example. Checking in at
www.paint4models.com, “U.N. flag blue” is best way to locate the center for
indicated as Federal Standard (FS) 35250. To drilling, and selecting the drill
me, that looks pretty close, but that’s all the bit size so you do not split the
help we’ll get there — the site’s tables reveal barrel material. Any good tips?
no brands with that color. – Dale Popula
However, searching for FS35250, I find
Ammo by Mig Jimenez lists its acrylic sky line
Antioch, Calif.
blue (A.MIG-224) as matching the Federal
Standard. Likewise for Vallejo’s deep sky blue A Boring out a tiny barrel can be a
(70.844). And Hataka’s HTK-A284 is listed as nervous business. The trick is to start
U.N. blue (FS35250). small and sneak up on it. Here’s what I
If you broaden your search to “sky blue,” do:
you’ll find colors that look close, such as If the end of the barrel is convex,
Testors light blue and flat sky blue, and gently sand it to square off the barrel
Tamiya’s sky blue. You may want to mix your Irish troops on patrol as U.N. peacekeepers in end. Then use the tip of a needle or
own from there. Liberia, 2006. hobby-knife point to make a dimple in
If you go with a custom color, be sure to the center of the barrel end to serve as a
mix up enough to finish the job — custom A Kenneth, we’ve had so many articles on this pilot hole. Be careful to center it; if
mixes can be difficult to duplicate, and you’ll that, rather than search one out, it’s faster for you’re off, it is hard to correct. I suppose
want enough for touch-ups. (There are always me to just tell you. you could use a micrometer to measure
touch-ups.) If decals have yellowed, you can put them the diameter and radius, but I eyeball it.
One more word of encouragement: U.N. in a sealable plastic bag and set them on a Then chuck the smallest micro bit
vehicles are generally painted white, so the sunny window sill and leave them there for a you have into a pin vise (above) and
blue would likely be for a flag, helmet, or cap, week or two to let the sun bleach out the slowly turn it to deepen the hole. If you
and those can vary in the field. In that case, use yellowing. Lacking a sunny sill, one reader says dare, you can go another size bigger on
a sky blue and tell people it’s FS35250. he put them up on the dash of his car under the bit and do it again. The trick is to
the windshield, achieving the same result. stop before the outside wall distorts or
Bringing old decals to life When you are satisfied the sunlight has collapses.
Q In one of my back issues there was an done all it can do, brush-coat the decals with A pin vise will work well enough, but
article on reusing old decals and how to Microscale Liquid Decal Film (www.microscale. an ideal tool for this is a dental file
bring them back to life. Could you please com). This will prevent them from shattering, (endodontic taper in DDS lingo) such as
provide me with the month and date of the as old decals sometimes do. However, you will those used for a root canal. (Whee! Now
article? have to use a hobby knife to trim along the that’s fun stuff!) It’s easy to hold the file
– Kenneth Harrison edge of each decal to cut through the between thumb and finger, giving you
Golden Valley, Calif. protective film and allow decals to slide off the more control.
backing individually. Remember, you don’t have to go
If a decal does crack, sometimes a very deep — just enough to create the
GOT A MODELING PROBLEM?
matching color of paint can save the day. For illusion of an open barrel. I paint the
Our Questions & Answers column is here to
example, when an old decal broke up on a inside of the barrel flat black and dry-
help. Email questions@finescale.com, or visit
Boeing 377, I found insignia blue was a pretty brush the end to highlight the detail.
FineScale.com and click on “Contact Us.” We
are not able to conduct lengthy research, darned good match for the United Airlines And in case you are having trouble
such as answering questions on markings livery. finding a suitable pin vise, you can visit
and unit histories. Mail volume and space One more tip — when all the decals are on, the Kalmbach Hobby Store and get one
limitations prevent us from printing every a coat of clear in the desired sheen (flat, just like the hotshots around here use:
question. Please include your name, town, semigloss, or gloss) will help keep them on. https://kalmbachhobbystore.com/
state, and a daytime phone number. That’s important because old decals just won’t product/modeling-tool/84027. FSM
stick as well, even if they go on whole.

www.FineScale.com 55
WORKBENCH REVIEWS
FSM experts build and evaluate new kits

Trumpeter M915 tractor and M872 trailer

T
he M915 tractor was based on The cab is molded in one piece. Clear
the Crain Carrier Company’s plastic provides all of the windows and
Centaur series of trucks and built lights; the 24 tires are molded in a hard
under license for the military by vinyl. Photo-etch (PE) is provided for radi-
American General. Powered by a ator grille, steps, grates, and exhaust shield.
440-horsepower, 855-cubic-inch The large instruction booklet features
Cummings diesel engine, the 6 x 4 tractor clear steps and relatively uncluttered dia-
can pull heavy loads on improved roads. grams. Unfortunately, it does not include
Trumpeter’s new M915 includes an color callouts for the cab interior or other
M872 flatbed trailer with a 40-foot con- details. The only painting
tainer. Molded in light gray plastic, the kit information provided
features good detail and excellent fit. The is the full-color
curbside kit lacks an engine; only the lower painting and mark-
part of the motor and transmission are visi- ing diagram. Decals
ble underneath. provide markings
for just one vehicle.
I’m always con-
cerned about
getting a multi-
part frame like
that on the trac-
tor square and
flat, but
Trumpeter’s engi-
Kit: No. 01015 neering ensured the is forming the exhaust shield. I bent mine
Scale: 1/35 Mfg.: Trumpeter, frame was perfectly aligned. Getting this around brass tube slightly smaller in diame-
www.trumpeter-china.com many wheels flat on the ground can also be ter than the muffler.
Price: $156.95 Comments: Injection- an issue, but Trumpeter’s engineering was Basic features fill the cab; advanced
molded, 517 parts (36 PE, 24 vinyl), spot-on here as well. The front axle is pos- modelers may want to add some details, but
decals Pros: PE easy to work with; lights able, but glue the steering in place once you they will be difficult to see unless the doors
molded in clear plastic; doors and front achieve the desired position. I left the are posed open.
wheels posable Cons: Painting instruc- wheels off until the tractor was painted. Photos on the internet show the cab
tions lacking details; only one marking I was impressed with how easy the PE interior to be mostly NATO green. It’s not
option; rubber tires difficult to install; no parts were to work with. There are a couple mentioned in the instructions, but the kit
engine of complex folds, but the relatively thick includes a decal for the dashboard.
metal is forgiving. The only really tricky bit However, getting the single decal to con-

Revell Germany Spitfire Mk.IIa

R
evell’s new kit of the iconic early halves and easily knocked off during assem- laid down nicely but others were too stiff,
Spitfire features optional wind- bly and painting. even on a glossy surface. I used decal soft-
screens, well-illustrated instruc- The wing fit well except for small gaps ener on the bottom roundels with limited
tions, and comprehensive decals at the joins with the separate wingtips; I success because of the uneven surfaces. The
with markings for one aircraft. filled those areas with white glue. Both the red tape for the gun muzzles refused to
Cockpit assembly was trouble-free. I wing and the horizontal stabilizers fit per- conform to the leading edges without decal
painted most of the components with fectly. softener. Some of the decal silvered, but
Testors Model Master RAF interior green; The canopy pieces were a bit thick, espe- another dose of solvent remedied the prob-
a brown artist’s oil wash popped the cially the armored windscreen, which seems lem. Testors clear flat dulled and sealed the
molded details. After applying the instru- to protrude too far forward. However, the finish.
ment and seat belt decals, I sealed the clear parts fit without modification, and you I spent eight hours building and paint-
assembly with clear flat. can see the interior despite the thick parts. ing this little jewel. Parts breakdown points
The fuselage halves fit so well that I I painted the RAF day fighter camou- to the possibility of other versions in the
didn’t need filler to eliminate a seam. Be flage with Testors Model Master enamels. future. The kit is a good value and would
careful, though, as the tail wheel and fin Recessed panel lines received a brown wash. make a good first airplane build.
antenna mast are molded on one of the The decals were the one low point; some – Tom Foti

56 FineScale Modeler January 2018


For primer red on the container, I mixed
Tamiya flat red and red brown. A flat black
acrylic filter dulled the finish and variation
clear roof lights — I’m still surprised they to the color.
all made it onto my model! The decals went on the container and
I had trouble slipping the nicely molded tractor easily and responded well to
form to the raised detail is nearly impossi- vinyl tires over the wheel rims. I used a Microscale decal solutions.
ble. So, I cut the decal into small sections micro screwdriver like a tire iron to install I spent about 34 hours building my
and used parts of it; I painted the rest of them, but that slightly damaged some of M915, aided by the kit’s impressive fit and
the details. the rims in the process. engineering. The PE would make a good
The door windows are a snug fit; after The trailer built quickly, starting with introduction to that media for intermediate
masking them, I pressed them into the door the perfectly aligned frame. In Step 25, be builders. The finished model exactly
openings without adhesive. The doors also careful installing the tops of the storage matched the dimensions found on www.
fit snugly, so I pressed them into place to bins (Part H24); make sure the single hole military-today.com/trucks/m915.htm.
mask the interior during painting. faces the closed side of the bin. It is not Advanced modelers would probably
The rest of the cab exterior fit was keyed, so it’s possible to install it incorrectly. want to add additional detail to the cab,
impressive. The container was also a quick, easy hoses for the pogo stick, and brake lines on
The biggest problem I had on the build build; cleaning up and installing the door the tractor to really dress up the kit.
was cleaning up and installing the six tiny latches was the only fiddly part. - John Plzak

Kit: No. 03953 Scale: 1/72


Mfg.: Revell Germany, www.revell.de
Price: $9.95 Comments: Injection-
molded, 38 parts, decals
Pros: Straightforward build Cons: Minor
fit problems; armored windscreen seems
too big; decals silvered

www.FineScale.com 57
WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Tamiya M1A2
Abrams

T
he Abrams tank seems to be a
hot subject with kit manufactur-
ers lately. Rye Field, Dragon,
Meng, and Tamiya have recently
come out with one Abrams or another in
1/35 scale.
What we were missing was an Abrams metal bar
in 1/48 scale — until now. is provided to
Tightly packed in Tamiya’s box for the add weight to the
M1A2 are five trees of parts molded in tan model. I am not sure what
plastic, all finely molded and flash-free. I purpose it serves but it does give
was impressed at first glance: It was shock- the small vehicle more heft. After
ing to see that the antislip coating was installing it, I noticed that the bar is a little Thermal Viewer). I waited to install these
molded into the parts, something the 1/35 loose and rattles inside the hull. That’s not a decals until after I had painted the entire
scale molds lacked. big deal, though. model and had a gloss coat down. This pre-
The instructions are a 10-page foldout Pay close attention to the instructions in vents damage during the build.
booklet. They include a recommended tool Step 4. This makes building the tracks The decals in this kit were a big letdown.
guide, paint-color callout guide (Tamiya much easier. After applying them over a gloss coat, most
colors only), and a separate sheet with a The turret is the next major assembly. of them silvered. They are also rather thick
brief history on the Abrams and a decal Again, follow the instructions closely as and flat in finish. I would recommend
placement guide. The instructions are easy there are several small parts to install. One replacing them with an aftermarket set if
to follow and I did not notice any errors in thing to note: There are no clear parts; all you can.
them during the build. the windows are depicted by decals, as is I used Testors Model Master armor sand
The hull is the first major assembly. A the CITV (Commander’s Independent overall, with rubber black for the tracks, and

Takom Maus V2

T
he word big describes the full-
size Maus. It also describes
Takom’s kit and its level of exte-
rior detail. Most of the more
than 700 parts go into the suspension and
running gear; only 50 parts make up the
hull and turret.
The build begins with the suspension
and road wheels. If you’re careful during
assembly, the bogies should be movable.
But it’s easy to get a bit of glue in the
wrong spot and, given the large number of

road wheels, move to the next and fail to attached both sides of the bogies at the
notice that one of the arms is stuck. same time. There is a bit of wiggle room in
Fortunately, the amount of travel is small, them, and if they dry crooked you’ll have a
so it’s not a great loss. In fact, it’s probably devil of time getting everything aligned
easier to just go ahead and glue them in when adding the side skirts.
position. With the complex running gear done,
Kit: No. 03.02.2050 Scale: 1/35 The tracks look great and work well, but the upper hull went together quickly.
Mfg.: Takom, www.takom-world.com assembling them is tedious. Each set com- Despite the simplicity, details pack the hull,
Price: $55 Comments: Injection- prises 165 parts. But the upper run is pretty including photo-etched engine grilles and
molded, 720 parts (10 PE), decals well hidden by the sturdy body of the tank, scale-thin handles.
Pros: Excellent cast texture; working so you could probably build about half of Turret assembly involved just two quick
tracks Cons: Two-part barrel each run without anyone noticing. steps. The shell is a slide-molded part with
Deviating from the instructions, I beautifully molded cast texture on the

58 FineScale Modeler January 2018


Moebius
Frank Frazetta’s
Death Dealer

I
n 1973, noted fantasy and comic
artist Frank Frazetta painted a
Kit: No. 32592 Scale: 1/48 now iconic image of a
Mfg.: Tamiya, www.tamiya.com mysterious warrior on
Price: $34 Comments: Injection-molded, horseback. The Death Dealer
172 parts, decals Pros: Crisp, clean molds; graced album covers and
good fits; straightforward build; easy-to- spawned comic books, novels,
follow instructions Cons: No interior and role-playing games
detail or stowage; decals were thick, and Moebius’ 1/10 scale kit was
they silvered sculpted by the talented Jeff Yagher, who
did a masterful job of turning a painting
into 3-D. Noteworthy, too, is the packag-
lightly weathered the model using Tamiya ing, with a removable sleeve
Weathering Master pastels. featuring the kit’s title and other
Parts count is relatively low at 172, so it information. Removing the sleeve reveals
doesn’t take forever to complete this — I an unobstructed copy of the original
spent slightly more than 15 hours at it, and painting suitable for framing or as a
it was a refreshing, simple build. It would backdrop for the completed
be perfect for a beginner, and an experi- model.
enced modeler should have fun, too. Highly After washing the parts, I
recommended! started building the horse with the legs pins on the parts. Instead, small indenta-
– Chris Oglesby and tail. Seam cleanup was much easier tions indicate attachment points.
before the limbs were attached to the I base-coated the subassemblies with
body. Badger Stynylrez black primer. For the
The halves of the horse trapped the horse, I airbrushed shades of brown acryl-
tail. I attached the ears before cleaning up ics; the rider and equipment were colored
seams. The parts fit well, but on organic with dry-brushing and washes over the
armor and no seams. The one downside is subjects it pays to eliminate joins. I had black.
the gun is molded in halves, which seems little trouble filling and sanding seams Final assembly was a breeze. I enjoyed
like a throwback. However, the halves fit along the back, chest, and rear with building and painting the Death Dealer.
well and the seam was easy to clean up. Tamiya surface primer, but seams between It’s one of Moebius’ best offerings thus
Only one Maus V2 was ever completed, the leg quarters were tricky. Fortunately, far, and I recommend it for figure fans.
but the kit provides several colorful and it’s mostly hidden on the finished model, Armor modelers will probably get a kick
creative camouflage options. I was drawn to so you could skip that if you wanted. out of it, too.
the late-war octopus scheme, but went with Before assembling the figure, I tempo- – Jeff LaMott
my other choice of a dunkelgelb (dark yel- rarily attached the saddle back and pom-
low) lower haul and red oxide turret using mel horn with white glue to the horse to
Tamiya acrylics. To give the colors depth, I properly fit the rider.
modulated them a little with slightly lighter Spend extra time dry-fitting the rid-
and darker shades. er’s subassemblies to check which seams
I took a few liberties with the turret and ejector-pin marks will be hidden on
markings, as there are no real photos of the finished figure. When I glued the legs
Maus turrets in the factory. But I based the to the torso, I taped them in place on the
main numbers on a photo of a Maus hull. horse overnight to ensure proper fit. I left
The lettering was done with a water-sol- the arm, cape, stirrups, head, hand and ax,
uble colored pencil. The larger, starker num- and shield off for painting; they were eas-
bers were painted with Ammo by Mig ily attached during final assembly.
Jimenez washable white. I cleaned up the tack but painted it
I had fun building Takom’s Maus, and separately. The reins are fragile, so be care- Kit: No. 961
despite the complexity of the running gear ful when clipping them from the sprue Scale: 1/10
and the tedium of the track assembly it and removing the attachment points. Mfg.: Moebius, www.moebiusmodels.
went together quickly. I spent a little more The kit provides chain and small metal com Price: $69.99 Comments:
than 35 hours finishing it. Any modeler rings to decorate the saddle blanket and Injection-molded, 47 parts (1 metal
with a bit of experience will have a great suspend the sword. The instructions show chain) Pros: Good sculpt and fits
time with this kit. them being attached to pins on the back Cons: Small mistake in instructions
– Chris Cortez of the blanket corners, but there are no

www.FineScale.com 59
WORKBENCH REVIEWS

Fitters compared: Kitty Hawk versus HobbyBoss

B
oth Kittyhawk and HobbyBoss 34 pages. There are numerous faults in the but has simplified molded-in belts that are
have graced us with newly tooled instructions, including misnumbered parts, not terribly realistic. Unlike the KH kit, a
kits of the Su-17M3/M4 in close some parts not numbered at all, and several resin replacement cockpit is a must for
succession. Previously, there was areas where it is not that obvious where accuracy.
only one option for building an Su-17 parts go or how they assemble. I needed to The wheel wells of both kits compare
“Fitter” in 1/48 scale, that being the old look at pictures of several areas of the real similarly to the cockpits, with KH’s being
KP/OEZ mold that has also been reissued aircraft to determine correct positioning/ much more detailed and accurate than that
by Eduard and Smer in recent times. assembly. Color callouts could be more of HB. The main undercarriage legs of both
Kittyhawk (KH) provides 766 parts, thorough but are generally accurate. kits are somewhat flimsy and wobbly. This
including 11 in clear styrene and 24 photo- The HB instructions encompass 24 steps is largely due to the design of the undercar-
etched (PE) brass, versus 403 (13 in clear in 16 pages and share many of the failings riage itself — it would be an ideal applica-
and 20 PE) from HobbyBoss (HB). You of the KH instructions, having misnum- tion of white-metal or brass legs! The HB
can choose from seven color schemes with bered parts and even less color information tires are vinyl versus KH’s plastic wheels.
the KH kit, two from HB. than KH. Both have armament instructions Exterior surface detailing reflects the
The KH instructions cover 19 steps in that are incomplete and inaccurate. Each of same attention to detail as the interior of
the kits includes a comprehensive array of both kits. The KH molding is quite accurate
weapons to hang under the jet, with KH and well presented, with numerous little
including quite a few that are not relevant touches that make the end product just that
to the Su-17. Both kits provide plenty of little bit more impressive, such as the ends
spare-parts bin fodder! of the cannon barrels being bored out and
The KH cockpit is fabulous, with the the depiction of the heat exchanger vent on
panel, side walls, and seat well depicted by the base of the tail. On the other hand, the
intricate small parts. I must confess that HB molding has solid cannon-barrel ends
the PE belts for the seat had me baffled, and simple engraved outlines for the heat
being approximately 10 scale feet long, so I exchanger vent with no details at all.
Kit: 80144 left them off, as I could not figure how they Regarding assembly, let’s look at KH
Scale: 1/48 should be folded to fit. The only issue I had first. It is a difficult kit to build! Twelve
Mfg.: Kitty Hawk, was with the K-36 ejection seat headbox, parts make up the main fuselage/tail-fin
www.kittyhawkmodel.com which looks a little too tall compared to assembly. Compounding this is the fact that
Price: $79.99 Comments: Injection- pictures of the real thing. On the other the engineering of the individual parts is
molded, 766 parts (24 PE), decals hand, HB has missed the mark in regards not optimal. Alignment devices are present,
Pros: Accurate details; plenty of options to accuracy and execution of the cockpit: but they allow the underside centerline join
Cons: Difficult fits exacerbated by com- The molding of the tops of the buttons has of the fuselage to float; it is essential to
plex part breakdown; some loose fitting a strange, stippled texture, and the panel progress slowly when gluing the seams to
alignment devices and side wall details are “approximate” in minimize alignment issues. Filler is
several areas. The seat is acceptable in shape required in virtually every seam, due to the

60 FineScale Modeler January 2018


alignment pins on the upper fuselage parts a very nice tow bar to attach to the nose were looking to build another Fitter, I
leaving conspicuous gaps. wheel should you wish to use it in a would choose the KH offering because
In comparison, the HB kit almost falls diorama. accuracy of detail out of the box is more
together; there really are no construction The KH construction of the wings important to me than an easy build that is
difficulties. The KH intake “bullet” fairing is allows them to swing and correctly depicts not as accurate. Yes, the KH kit is more
inaccurate in the way it is mounted. The the hollow rear inner-wing section that the time-consuming and harder to build, but
real thing has wedges on the top and bot- outer wings slide into. HB has dedicated really all it needs is a resin seat to improve
tom of the cone that direct airflow around swept and extended wing panels, with two the cockpit — whereas the HB kit needs a
the cockpit. KH uses pins on each side of pins that attach the outer wing panels to full cockpit replacement if accuracy of
the cone to hold the assembly, which makes the inner wing. HB only supplies one set of detail is important to you. Both manufac-
it difficult to center when installing it in the ailerons, but if it had included two sets it turers have also released versions of the
nose. Similarly, the engine (which is pro- would be possible to exchange swept and two-seat Su-17UM3. One of them may
vided as a complete unit that can be dis- extended wings. Some trimming of the find its way into my stash!
played separately or by leaving the tail mating surface is required to fit the pylons – Matthew Walker
section of the fuselage unattached) is diffi- on the KH kit, as excess plastic prevents a
cult to align in both axes. HB handled both good fit. The HB pylons literally click into
of these areas very well, correctly depicting place and fit perfectly.
the bullet-fairing mount and making align- I chose to build the KH Fitter in
ment of the burner easy. Ukrainian markings, and the HB as a
Numerous options are included by KH, Russian air force Fitter that flew over
with opened air brakes and blow-in doors Afghanistan in the early 1980s.
on the nose. But the parts do not fit their I spent approximately 60 hours on
respective recesses well at all, leaving no each model, much of that time being
option but to pose them open. All flying devoured by applying the multicolor cam-
surfaces are separate pieces. However, the ouflage. The decals from both manufactur- Kit: No. 81758
flaps would require modification to droop. ers performed just fine, except the KH Scale: 1/48
HB molded the air brakes, blow-in doors, yellow stencils were too transparent. Mfg.: HobbyBoss,
and flaps closed, so major work would be In conclusion, the obvious question is, www.hobbyboss.com
needed to show them opened. KH provides which kit is better? The answer depends on Price: $87.99
separate leading-edge slats, with slight what you want in a model. An easy build Comments: Injection-molded, 403 parts
modifications required if you wish to have that has some shape discrepancies and (20 PE, 3 vinyl), decals
them retracted. HB molded the slats closed. questionable detail with few options? Or a Pros: Good fits; easy to assemble
KH includes parts to show both cannon better-detailed model with more options Cons: Details poorly molded; cockpit and
bays open, with reasonable representations which is trickier to build? Both kits have wheel wells are approximations of the
of the cannons themselves. HB does not their problems, but both are streets ahead real thing; inaccurate windscreen shapes
provide open cannon bays, but does include of what has previously been available. If I

www.FineScale.com 61
READER TIPS
By Elizabeth Nash

1 2 3
This inexpensive modeling tool comes in handy all around the workbench.

Claying around
On my workbench is a substance that I couldn’t do without: modeling clay. Its many uses include:

1) Gap filler — Have you ever had a tiny gap, such as clay and knead it into the birdshot until the clay is
on an aircraft between the wing and fuselage? Maybe filled with little lead balls. This can be jammed into the
it’s only 1/64 of an inch, but you know it’s going stand nose, under the cockpit, or wherever you need to put it.
out like it’s a foot wide once painted. Usually, the filler On at least one occasion, I stuffed it in the engine
and the sandpaper come out, and so does the surround- nacelles in front of the landing gear. Once you have it
ing detail. Instead, take a little lump of clay, roll it in place, paint with white glue to lock the shot in.
around until it’s nice and soft, and squeeze it into the
gap. Don’t worry about the excess, just take a damp 3) Tiny palette — If you need to apply a little bit of
paper towel, cotton swab, or pipe cleaner and rub it off. super glue or paint and don’t want to dirty a container,
Then paint directly over the clay. I’ve never encoun- reach for the clay. After flattening it out, use the non-
tered any bad reaction between the clay and paint. I business end of a hobby knife to make dimples that can
find clay’s crack-filling property to be particularly use- be filled with glue or paint. Once finished, let the
ful on figures when the arms or legs or whatever simply impromptu palette dry overnight, which makes remov-
don’t fit, or when you are trying to reposition the limbs. ing paint easy, letting you use the clay again.
Use a toothpick to push the clay into the gap and a
cotton swab or pipe cleaner to smooth it out. Eventually, after five or six years, the clay will become
too grimy and dirty to use — not a bad lifespan for a
2) Nose weight — Many years ago, I went to a sporting $2 modeling item.
goods shop and bought a 5-pound sack of birdshot – Chet Mohn
(today, there is still 4½ pounds left). I take a wad of New Cumberland, Penn.

How to warm a rattle can to keep it from sticking. when most 1/35 scale figures were lead (also
I find that warming a can of spray paint To insulate the warming ring, I add an known as pot metal).
under hot tap water makes the spray outer layer of foil-faced bubble wrap and Back then, a common problem with
smoother and creates a better finish. secure this with more tape. poorly-prepped figures was a kind of corro-
However, it’s tiring having to wait for the Using this setup, I’ve found my rattle sion that would, after a year or two, bubble
faucet to run hot again each time you need can stays warm for five hours. the paint off. The solution was simple: Soak
to rewarm the can. A word of caution: Take this method the metal in a bath of white vinegar over-
Lately, and with good success, I’ve exper- outside on the first few tries to test that the night. Next, prime the figure in enamel or
imented with hand-warming packs used by brand of warming packs you’re using won’t lacquer (not acrylic). I always preferred the
skiers and hunters. These packs are activated cause the can to overheat and rupture. now-unavailable Floquil primer, but any
when opened and exposed to air. After – Brian Yerich enamel or lacquer will work.
opening the pack, I form it around the can Stamford, N.Y. I still have figures from the mid-70s that
— it will not reach all the way around. To have never suffered from corrosion. So, if
make it into a glove-like ring that I can slip Stop the corrosion you’re using metal landing gear, propellers,
the can in and out of, I loosely wrap mask- If you’re building a kit with metal (not or other parts, try this old but faithful tip.
ing tape around the pack, using a small wad photo-etch) parts, make the finish last with – Ned Barnett
of paper towel between the tape and the can this tip I learned way back in the 1970s, Las Vegas, Nev.

62 FineScale Modeler January 2018


Statement of Ownership, Management, and Circulation
(Required by 39 U.S.C. 3685)

1. Title of publication: FineScale Modeler


2. Number of publication: 679-590
3. Date of filing: October 1, 2017

A putty recommendation resin (it even holds reusable, reheatable 4. Frequency of issue: Ten times per year
5. Number of issues published annually: 10
Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty is an molding material). I’ve never had the mate-
6. Annual subscription price: $39.95
excellent one-part acrylic filler that goes rial seep through, and cleanup is easy. 7. Location of known office of publication: 21027 Crossroads
down smooth and is easy to work with. The molding possibilities are endless! Circle, Waukesha, Waukesha County, WI 53187-1612, ph.
262-798-6607
Even when dry, it can be removed with a – Craig Hay 8. Location of headquarters or general business offices of
damp cotton swab or paper towel. Bronx, N.Y. publishers: Same
9. Publisher: Steve George, 21027 Crossroads Circle, Waukesha,
I’ve sometimes found no sanding is nec- WI 53186. Editor: Mark Savage, same address. Managing
essary to get a smooth line, such as when Dirty to clean in three minutes Editor: N/A
10. Owner: Kalmbach Publishing Co., 21027 Crossroads Circle,
filling a wing fillet. If you invest in a jewelry cleaning machine P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha, WI 53187-1612; Stockholders
owning or holding one (1) percent or more of total amount
If it dries up inside the tube, don’t toss it ($19-$49), you can easily wash several of stock are: Deborah H.D. Bercot, 22012 Indian Springs Trail,
away. Use an eyedropper to add a couple items on your workbench. Amberson, PA 17210; Gerald & Patricia Boettcher Trust, 8041
Warren Ave. Wauwatosa, WI 53213; Alexander & Sally
drops of tap water, shake well, and let sit for I use one to thoroughly clean out empty Darragh, 145 Prospect Ave., Waterloo, IA 50703; Melanie J.
Kirrene Trust, 9705 Royston Ct., Granite Bay, CA 95746;
a few minutes. The water softens the putty paint bottles. They can then be repurposed Harold Edmonson, 6021 N. Marmora Ave., Chicago, IL 60646;
Laura & Gregory Felzer, 3328 S. Honey Creek Dr., Milwaukee,
so it’s like new again. as small paint mixers or as a reservoir for an WI 53219; Susan E. Fisher Trust, 3430 E. Sunrise Dr., Ste. 200,
Tucson, AZ 85718; Bruce H. Grunden, 255 Vista Del Lago Dr.,
– Ernie Urtiaga airbrush. The machine also removes those Huffman, TX 77336; Linda H. Hanson Trust, P.O. Box 19,
Arcadia, MI 49613; Mary Kay Herrmann, 1530 Tallgrass Circle,
Oviedo, Fla. pesky, sticky bottle labels. Waukesha, WI 53188; George F. Hirschmann Trusts, P.O. Box
19, Arcadia, MI 49613; James & Carol Ingles, 1907 Sunnyside
I have also used a jewelry cleaner to Dr., Waukesha, WI 53186; Charles & Lois Kalmbach, 7435 N.
From toy box to workbench wash out my airbrush. I break down the Braeburn Lane, Glendale, WI 53209; Kalmbach Profit
Sharing/401K Savings Plan & Trust, P.O. Box 1612, Waukesha,
Need to make a mold? Use your kids’ (or parts and stick them in the plastic tub. WI 53187-1612; James & Elizabeth King, 2505 E. Bradford
Ave., #1305, Milwaukee, WI 53211; Mahnke Family Trust,
your own) Lego blocks. Once they are paint-free, I let them air dry. 4756 Marlborough Way, Carmichael, CA 95608; Milwaukee
Art Museum, Inc., 700 N. Art Museum Dr, Milwaukee, WI
Using a large Lego base, build up the Using a teaspoon of cleaning powder 53202; James W. Mundschau, N24 W30420 Crystal Springs
Dr., Pewaukee, WI 53072; Lois E. Stuart Trust, 1320 Pantops
blocks as you would a brick wall, with each ($1.39-$1.89 per bottle), lukewarm water, Cottage Ct. #1, Charlottesville, VA 22911-4663; David M.
Thornburgh Trust, 8855 Collins Ave. Apt. 3A, Surfside, FL
new layer overlapping the seams of the and the 3-minute setting on the machine, 33154.
layer beneath. This will form a tight seal. you can clean with ease. 11. Known bondholders, mortgagees, and other security holders
owning or holding 1 percent or more of total amount of
Create whatever form you need, be it – Kenneth Uffelman bonds, mortgages, or other securities: Not applicable
large or small, and fill it with silicone or Fresno, Calif. 12. Tax status: Not applicable
13. Publication title: FineScale Modeler
14. Issue date for circulation data below: September 2017
15. Extent and Nature of Circulation:

Protect Your
Average No. Actual No. of
Copies of Single Issue
Each Issue Published
During Preceding Nearest to
12 months Filing Date
A. Total no. copies (net press run): 50,873 51,553

Investment
B. Paid and/or requested circulation
1. Paid/requested outside-county
mail subscriptions: 24,539 24,619
2. Paid in-county subscriptions 0 0
3. Sales through dealers and carriers,
street vendors, counter sales, and
other non-USPS paid distribution: 8,330 7,776
4. Other classes mailed through USPS: 0 0
C. Total paid and/or requested circulation: 32,868 32,395

Preserve your library D. Free distribution by mail


1. Outside-county: 0 0

of FineScale Modeler 2. In-county:


3. Other classes mailed through USPS: 141
0
143
0

magazines with durable 4. Outside the mail:


E. Total free distribution (sum of 15d (1,2,3,4)): 141
0
143
0

hardcover binders. F. Total distribution (sum of 15c and 15e):


G. Copies not distributed:
33,009
17,864
32,538
19,015
H. Total (sum of 15f and 15g): 50,873 51,553
I. Percent paid and/or requested: 99.57% 99.56%

ONLY 16. Total circulation includes electronic copies:

$13.95 each
Average No. Actual No. of
Copies of Single Issue
Each Issue Published
During Preceding Nearest to
Item #14006 12 months Filing Date
A. Paid electronic copies: 2,564 2,317
P29466

B. Total paid print copies + paid electronic


copies (sum of 15c and 16A): 35,432 34,712
C. Total print distribution + paid electronic

Shop at
copies (sum of 15f and 16a): 35,572 34,855
D. Percent paid and/or requested: 99.61% 99.59%
17. Publication of Statement of Ownership: Will be printed in the
January 2018 issue of this publication.

KalmbachHobbyStore.com 18. I certify that the statements made by me above are correct
and complete.
Nicole McGuire, Vice President - Consumer Marketing, 9/29/17

www.FineScale.com 63
ySS

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Modeler’s Mart NORMANDIE WE CARRY THE BEST Find it
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from A-Model to Zvezda easy-to-use
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We Buy Collections!

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& OOP kits. OVER 10,000
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Visit us on the web at:
“Since 1969” www.deanshobbystop.com
To advertise 888-558-1544 ext. 523

Contact us for a FREE catalog!


"Your Spare Time is Our Business"
(specify car or military list)
COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA
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116 N. Washington Street, Owosso, MI 48867
PLANES • ARMOR • CARS • SHIPS • SCI-FI 989-720-2137 • Fax: 989-720-0937
We carry a huge inventory of plastic model kits from Email: dean@deanshobbystop.com
around the world! Full Line of Detailing Accessories.
ALL SHIPS, ALL NAVIES, ALL KINDS Airline models, Decals, Books, Promos, Die Cast Col-
lectibles, Historical & RPG Games & Miniatures,
(718) 471-5464 Airbrushes & parts. Large Paint and Tool inventory.
Full line R/C department. We ship worldwide.
www.TotalNavy.com www.colpar.com
COLPAR’S HobbyTown USA To order call: 1-800-876-0414
,&+,*$1
72<62/',(5&2
1915 S. Havana St.
Aurora, Co 80014
For information: 303-341-0414

:RUOG̵V%HVW6HOHFWLRQRI̿
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5HIHUHQFH6FHQLF 'LRUDPD
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ZZZPLFKWR\FRP To advertise, call 888-558-1544 ext. 549

Classified FOR SALE WANTED


ATLANTIS MAIL ORDER HOBBY SUPPLY Deep Dis- A BIG BUYER OF AIRCRAFT, Armor, Sci-Fi, Resin, Hybrid
Marketplace counts on Thousands of New kits, Discontinued and Closeout or Plastic kits. We buy collections whether they are small or
items. Send $2.95 to 9 Connor Lane Unit-G Deer Park, NY large- Worldwide as well. Call Don Black toll free 1-866-462-
This section is open to anyone who wants to sell or buy 11729 OR CALL 631-499-6733 M-F 11-4PM est. You can also 7277. Don Black, 119 Bernhurst Road, New Bern, NC 28560.
scale modeling merchandise. FSM reserves the right to edit visit www.atlantis-models.com to order the Catalog. E-mail don@donblack.com
undesirable copy or refuse listing. For FSM’s private records, ATTENTION KIT BUILDERS: If you are missing something AIRCRAFT, ARMOR, SCI-FI, FIGURES, AUTO, ETC.
please furnish: a telephone number and a street address. in your collection check this out! Here’s over 500, (some hard Buying kit collections, large or small, worldwide. Top prices
Coming Events Rate: $35 per issue (55 word maximum). to find) models, 1/72 and 1/48 scale, plus over 100 decal sets paid. Call Jim Banko 610-814-2784 or mail list to 122 Indepen-
Ads will contain the following information about the available to be sold individually at fair prices. For a complete list dence Ct., Bethlehem, PA 18020, fax 610-439-4141. E-mail:
event: state, city, sponsoring organization and name of categorized by scale send a SASE for $1.61 to: Bob Twistol, cth1@prodigy.net
event, meet, auction or show, dates, location, times, 5005 Briar Oaks Circle, Orlando, Florida 32808. Questions? Call
I WANT TO BUY YOUR UNBUILT MODEL KITS.
admission fee, name and/or telephone number and/or 407-491-1586 or E-mail jetpilotf105@yahoo.com
Any size collection. Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington St.
email of person to contact for information. Word Ad Owosso, MI 48867. 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937. E-mail:
AVIATION ART STORE Famous American, Allied and Axis
Rates: 1 insertion - $1.13 per word, 5 insertions - $1.08 per Aviator limited edition prints. Rare signatures of French, Italian, dean@deanshobbystop.com
word, 10 insertions - 99¢ per word. $20 minimum per issue. and Japanese aviators. Aviationartstore.com
Count all initials, single numbers, street number or name, MODEL CAR AND TRUCK KITS. Unbuilt or built. Any
city, state, zip, phone numbers each as one word. Payment CANOPY MASKING AND MORE! WWW.EZMASKS. size collection. Good prices paid. Please contact: Fred Sterns,
must accompany the ad. To receive the discount you must COM List $3.00. Chris Loney, 75 Golf Club Rd., Smiths Falls, 48 Standish, Buffalo, NY 14216. Phone: 716-838-6797. Fax:
ON, Canada K7A 4S5. 613-283-5206, ezmasks@gmail.com 716-836-6057. E-mail: fsterns@aol.com
order and prepay for all ads at one time. We accept Visa,
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Send Your Ads To: FineScale Modeler – Classified crafters, America’s oldest maker of wooden ship model kits MISCELLANEOUS
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1-888-558-1544, Ext. 815, or fax: 262-796-0126. ter of 1815, the J/24, and coming soon, the Perry! Visit us at armor to your specification, including conversions and scratch-
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Closing Date: February 2018 closes Nov. 1st. Experience Wooden Ship Modeling!
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John Adelmann at 563-556-7641 or jjadelmann@yahoo.com
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Subscribe to FineScale Modeler!
ern California Wing. 455 Aviation Drive. Admission $10 per per- Dean Sills, 116 N. Washington, Owosso, MI 48867. Call 1-800-533-6644 or visit
son. For more information contact Vernon Morseman or Stuart Specify Military List. Phone: 989-720-2137. Fax: 989-720-0937.
Mackie at 805-658-8138 E-mail: dean@deanshobbystop.com FineScale.com today!

64 FineScale Modeler January 2018


Local Hobby COLORADO • Aurora
Large inventory of models from the
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Oklahoma’s largest plastic kit, paint & after-
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parts, incl. service. Craft & educational kits, model kits & supplies, plus toy soldiers, wargames & modeling supplies. hobbies since 1986. We buy kit collections.
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6; Sun 12-4. www.debbiebartunek@mac.com hobbybunker.com
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FINAL DETAILS
By Mark Hembree

A season of giving

Modeling ships was not


Dale’s forte — but it
wasn’t about him. He
built Monogram’s 1/150
scale USS Susquehanna
for a co-worker’s father.
Photo by Cristian Ortega.

T
he spirit of gift-giving is part of up due to his eyesight. People in the office Model Expo. I treated the black line same
all the ways in which the holiday know about my model building, so they as the heavy black line; the rope color came
season is celebrated. Right along- offered the kits to me. Most of them were from golden oak wood stain.
side peace on earth and good will 1/48 and 1/32 scale aircraft, with this one “I was able to learn some of the authen-
toward men (and women) are those true ship kit. I offered to build one of the mod- tic knots used by serious ship modelers, but
gifts born of selflessness, sacrifice, thought- els for the dad as a thank-you, and the some still elude me; I ‘cheated’ in many
fulness, and compassion. Susquehanna had a special memory for him. places with simpler knots.
In the spirit of the season, a few model- So, even though I am mainly an aircraft “The sails came with dimples molded in
ers will present their own special gifts rep- builder, I jumped at the chance to try for the rigging, and I punched them out.
resenting hours spent for charity — builds something different. Using a needle to sew the sails to the yard-
destined for others’ shelves, keepsakes for “I had always used enamel paints before, arms was a disaster, but I found that dip-
someone else’s life. but I found some YouTube videos demon- ping the end of the thread in super glue
This year, one of those charitable model- strating weathering techniques with acrylics made it stiff enough to go through the
ers is Dale Stanek, of Sarasota, Fla., who to make plastic look like worn wood. I used holes without fraying. Then, just carefully
challenged his own skills to build his first these techniques on the deck, the black tightening each line finished the sewing
tall ship — for someone he didn’t even portion of the hull, and the masts. The sails job.
know. We’ll let him tell the rest of the were also treated to an acrylic wash. “In spite of Hurricane Irma roaring
story: “Almost every small part also got a through here, I was able to finish the model
“A co-worker was looking for a home weathering treatment. The only significant in time for Modelpalooza 2017 in Orlando,
for about two dozen model kits that his dad enamel painting was the copper cladding, Fla., where it earned a bronze medal.
had. His dad used to build models, but gave which was then weathered with a green “After the contest I took the model to
acrylic wash to replicate corrosion. The work, where my friend Cristian set up his
Check out Great Scale Modeling 2017 heavier black (standing) rigging thread gear and took photos. Then we turned the
See FineScale Modeler‘s nationwide show came with the kit; I dyed it with ebony ship over to its new owner (or at least his
coverage, including the Midwest Model wood stain, then ran it through a block of son) to be delivered to its final home.”
Ships & Boats contest in Manitowoc, Wis. beeswax. The lighter standing rigging and Good modeling to you and good will to
the running rigging (rope color) were from all this season! FSM

66 FineScale Modeler January 2018


FAV EDITOR
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