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APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

SILVER SPARK UNIT-2

SUBMITTED BY:
NITIN KUMAR
MEEZAN ALAM
DFT/2014-18

Posted online only for reference, do not copy and paste.

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Acknowledgement

We take this opportunity to express our profound gratitude and deep regards to Mr. Hiral
Lakdawala, (Plant Manager) for providing us this golden opportunity to work under this project. His
exemplary guidance, monitoring and constant encouragement throughout the course of Apparel
Internship. The help given by him from time to time shall carry us a long way in the journey of life on
which we are about to embark.
We owe our deepest gratitude to our Industry mentors Miss. Diksha Kumari (Executive-IE), Mr.
Dhiraj Kumar (Production Executive) and Mr. Prashant Kumar (Executive-IE), for the valuable
guidance, advice, useful comments, remarks and engagement throughout the learning process of this
project and sharing their precious time with us during the internship.
It is with immense gratitude that we acknowledge the support and help of our former Industry Mentor
Mr. Rohit Kumar (Deputy Manager). His throughout consideration and sincere guidance helped us
covering up each and every topic in the successful completion of this Report.
We would like to thank Mr. Raghavendra (Manager-IE) for his valuable support in fulfilling our
every sort of requirements that gave us the possibility to complete this project successfully.
We would like to present our overwhelming gratitude to our institute mentor Mr. Jayaram Pari
(Assistant Professor) whose sincere guidance and throughout contribution has enriched us with
valuable input, our Center Coordinator Dr. Abhijeet Mukherjee for his continuous guidance and
support.
Last but not the least We deeply appreciate the guidance provided by the staffs and operators at Silver
Spark Apparel Ltd. who were a helping hand at every next step.
Thank you Silver Spark.

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Table of contents

Chapter Topic Page No.


1 Raymond Introduction 6
1.1 List of Companies 8
1.2 Joint Ventures 9
1.3 History 10
1.4 International Business 11
1.5 Raymond Export Market 11
1.6 Raymond Group Structure 12
1.7 Raymond Ltd. Gauribidanur 13
1.8 Infrastructure 15
2 Organisations Department Introduction 18
2.1 Department at SSAL 2 19
2.2 Merchandising Department 20
2.3 Sampling Department 21
2.4 Planning Department 25
2.5.1 Fabrics Store 26
2.5.2 Trims Store 37
2.6 Cutting Department 44
2.6.1 CAD Department 45
2.6.2 Spreading Department 46
2.6.3 Cutting 50
2.6.4 Numbering 52
2.6.5 Inspection 53
2.6.6 Re-cutting 56
2.6.7 Band Knife 56
2.6.8 Fusing 57
2.7 Sewing Department 60
2.7.1 Jacket Section 61
2.7.2 Waist Coat 67
2.7.3 Trouser 70
2.8 Finishing Department 74
2.8.1 Jacket Finishing 74
2.8.2 Trouser Finishing 77
2.9 Warehouse 82
2.10 Quality Assurance 84
2.10.1 Quality in Cutting 86
2.10.2 Quality in Fusing 86
2.10.3 Quality in Sewing 86
2.10.4 Quality in Finishing 87
2.11 Industry Engineering 89
2.12 IT and MIS Department 93
2.13 Training Department 94
2.14 HR and Admin Department 99
2.15 Maintenance Department 100
3 Plant Layout 101

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Table of Tables

Table No. Details Page No.


1 Types of Materials stored 27
2 Materials Stacking Board Card Details 28
3 12 Parameter Test 32
4 4 Point System Fabric Inspection 32
5 Body Lining Inspection Criteria 34
6 Pocketing Inspection Criteria 34
7 Machines in Fabric Department 35
8 Trims Stacking System Card Details 38
9 AQL 2.5 41
10 Thread and Ticket Number 43
11 CAD Software Details 45
12 Best Marker Efficiency 45
13 Workflow of Cutting 51
14 Available Fusing Machines 58
15 Line Wise Details 60
16 Shell Parts of Jacket 61
17 Small Parts of Jacket 61
18 Total Parts of Jacket 62
19 Lining Parts of Jacket 62
20 Waist Coat Shell Parts 67
21 Waist Coat Lining Parts 67
22 List Details of Trouser 70
23 Operatiors in Finishing Section 75
24 Sewing Needles Used For Different Operations 81
25 Floor Area 102
26 Manpower 103
27 Machine Details 104

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Table of Flow Charts

Flow Chart No. Details Page No.


1 Organizational Structure 17
2 Order Process Flow 20
3 Sampling Process Flow 22
4 Planning Department Work Flow 25
5 Store Hierarchy 26
6 Fabric Store Flow Chart 30
7 Trims Store Work Flow 40
8 Structure Of Department 44
9 Spreading Process Flow 47
10 Front Section Jacket 64
11 Lining Section Jacket 65
12 Collar Section Jacket 65
13 Sleeve Section Jacket 66
14 Assembly Section Jacket 66
15 Small Parts W/C 68
16 Front And Back W/C 68
17 Lining W/C 69
18 Assemby w/c 69
19 Preparatory Flow Of Trouser 71
20 Front And Flow Of Trouser 71
21 Assembly 1 Trouser 72
22 Assembly 2 Trouser 72
23 Sewing Line Structure 73
24 Jacket Finishing Organizational Structure 75
25 Jacket Finishing Process Flow 76
26 Finishing Organizational Structure 78
27 Trouser Finishing Flow 78
28 Trouser Sewing Quality Workflow 81
29 Warehouse Organizational Structure 83
30 Wasrehouse Process Flow 83
31 Quality Organizational Chart 84
32 Raw Material Inspection Flow 85
33 Quality in Cutting 86
34 Quality in Sewing 86
35 Quality in Finishing 87
36 IE Process Flow 89
37 IE Organizational Structure 90
38 Responsibilities of IE 91
39 HR Organizational Structure 99
40 Maintenance Organizational Chart 100

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Table of Figures

Figure No. Details Page No.


1 Raymond: The Complete Man 7
2 The Singhania's 10
3 SSAL II Journey 14
4 Fabric Store 27
5 Supermarket Area 28
6 Material Stacking and Tracking System 29
7 Layout of Fabric store 30
8 Inspection Machine 35
9 Relaxation Machine 36
10 Sponging Machine 36
11 Die Cutting Machine 36
12 Trim Store 37
13 Material Stacking and Tracking System 38
14 Trim Store Layout 39
15 Manual Spreading 48
16 Machine Spreading 49
17 Gerber Cutter 50
18 Inspection Table 53
19 Fusing 59
20 Fusing Machine Feeding 59
21 Jacket Finishing 74
22 Trouser Finishing 77
23 Training Section 94
24 Two Hand Coordination 96
25 Paper Exercise 97
26 Fabric Exercise 97
27 Uniform Colour Code 98

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CHAPTER -1
RAYMOND
INTRODUCTION

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Figure 1: Raymond: The Complete Man

Incorporated in 1925, the Raymond Group is a Rs.1400 crore plus conglomerate having
businesses in Textiles, Readymade Garments, Engineering Files & Tools, Prophylactics and
Toiletries.

The group is the leader in textiles, apparel, & files & tools in India and enjoys a pronounced
position in the international market. Raymond believes in Excellence, Quality and
Leadership.

Raymond is considered a pioneer in the development of the woolen and worsted textiles
market in India, thanks to its continuous initiatives in product development, marketing and
distribution. A strong heritage of in house research and development, a range of over 20,000
shades and designs, a distribution network of more than 4000 multi - brand outlets and over
281 exclusive retail shops, makes Raymond the largest and most respected textile brand in
India.

Raymond is uniquely positioned as a brand that addresses the innate need of men to look
good and at the same time possess strength of character. This emphasis on human values
creates a warm emotional link with consumers- the essence of 'The Complete Man'.
At Raymond‘s consistent focus is on cutting-edge research and technology that has resulted
in pioneering new products, which have set new benchmarks in the worsted suiting industry
in India.

The company's engagement with the customer works on multiple dimensions right from
developing fashion guides that help them look sharp, to a wide selection of fabric for all
occasions and fashion, to offering superior tailoring at The Raymond Shops at convenient
locations all over India and the Middle East.

As an integrated player, they provide end-to-end fabric solutions right from manufacturing
worsted, woollen and linen fabrics to creating suits, trousers and apparel.

Raymond is home to some of the most reputed apparel brands of India under the banner of
Raymond Apparel Ltd.

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1.1 LIST OF COMPANIES

RAYMOND LTD.
Raymond Ltd. is among the largest integrated manufacturers of
worsted fabrics in the world.

RAYMOND APPAREL LTD.


Raymond Apparel Ltd. has in its folio some of the
most highly regarded apparel brands in India –
Raymond Premium Apparel, Park Avenue, Parx and
Notting Hill.

COLORPLUS FASHIONS LTD.


ColorPlus is among the largest smart casual brands in the premium
category. The company was acquired by Raymond to cater to the
growing demand for a high end, casual wear brand in the country for
Men & Women.

SILVER SPARK APPAREL LTD.


A garmenting facility that manufactures formal suits, trousers and
jackets.

EVERBLUE APPAREL LTD.


A state-of-the-art denim garmenting facility.

CELEBRATIONS APPAREL LTD.


A facility set-up for the manufacture of formal shirts.

J.K. HELENE CURTIS LTD.


A leading player in the grooming, accessories and toiletries category.

J.K. INVESTO TRADE (INDIA) LTD.


JKIT is an investment company registered with Reserve Bank of
India as Non-Banking Financial Company.

RING PLUS AQUA LTD.

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A leading manufacturer in the engineering automotive components

1.2 JOINT VENTURES

Raymond UCO Denim Pvt. Ltd.


The manufacturers and marketers of denim fabrics.

RAYMOND ZAMBAITI PVT. LTD.


A greenfeild facility manufacturing high value cotton shirting.

JK ANSELL LTD.
The manufacturers and marketers of kamasutra condoms and surgical
gloves.

JK TALABOT LTD
Joint venture with MOB outillage SA, manufacturing files and rasps
for international markets.

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1.3 HISTORY

Figure 2: The Singhania's

Around the time the Singhania family was building, consolidating and expanding its various
businesses in Kanpur, one Mr. Wadia, was in a similar manner engaged in fulfilling his
dream: he set up a small woolen mill in the area around Thane creek, 40 kilo meters away
from Bombay. The Sassoons, a well-known industrialist family of Bombay, soon acquired
this mill and renamed it as The Raymond Woolen Mills

When the Singhania were looking for new regions to establish their presence and new fields
to venture into, they concurred that textiles appeared to hold promise. A piece of information
that a woolen mill was available on the outskirts of Bombay clinched the issue. When the
grandson of Lala Juggilal, Lala Kailashpat Singhania took over Raymond in 1944, the mill
was primarily making cheap and coarse woolen blankets, and modest quantities of low priced
woolen fabrics.

The vision and foresight of Mr. Kailashpat Singhania helped greatly in establishing the J.K.
Group‘s presence in the western region. Under his able stewardship, Raymond embarked
upon a gradual phase of technological up gradation and modernization producing woolen
fabrics of a far superior quality. Under Mr. Gopalakrishna Singhania, the mill became a
world-class factory and the Raymond brand became synonymous with fine quality woolen
fabrics. At Raymond, quality did not rest on its laurels

When Dr. Vijaypat Singhania took over the reins of the company in 1980, he injected fresh
vigor into Raymond, transforming it into a modern, industrial conglomerate. His son Mr.
Gautam Hari Singhania, the present chairman and managing director has been instrumental in
restructuring the Group. With the divestment of the Synthetics, Steel and Cement divisions he
initiated, the Group has emerged stronger with a better bottom line, more focused approach,
become market oriented and achieved a consolidated position

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Today, the woolen mill by the creek has turned into a Rs. 1400 Crores conglomerate and is
India‘s leading producer of worsted suiting fabric with 60% market share. It is also the largest
exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to 54 countries including Australia,
Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. The Raymond group is also the leader among
ready-mades in India with a turnover of Rs. 2000 million with its three brands – Park
Avenue, Parx and Manzoni.

1.4 INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS


It all began with a small but significant order from Fiji for Rs. 7,000 worth of Raymond
fabrics. In the St. Erik‘s Fair in Sweden, a sizeable order was won and executed and ever
since exports have never looked back.

Today, Raymond is the largest exporter of worsted fabrics and readymade garments to over
58 countries including Australia, Canada, USA, the European Union and Japan. From
winning the first ever Government of India award for outstanding export performances,
Raymond has continued to win a number of export awards. Happily the export graph
continues to rise higher…and higher.

Raymond Denim enjoys a substantial market share in all parts of the world. The company
exports 55% of its production to around 20 countries around the world and to leading denim
wear brands like Levi's, Pepe, Lee Cooper and retail brands like Zara, H&M, Gap, Tommy
Hilfiger, etc.

1.5 RAYMOND EXPORTS MARKET

European Union (U.K., Portugal, Spain, Italy, Germany, Greece),Japan, Turkey, Poland,
Lebanon, Egypt, Middle East, Mauritius, USA, Colombia, Hong Kong, Korea, Philippines,
Indonesia, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Nepal and Pakistan. The products that Raymond Exports
are:
 Fabrics
100% Wool, Wool Rich, Polyester Wool & Polyester Viscose fabrics .Exotic fabrics
like Wool Silk, Wool Cashmere, Cape Wool and Linen blends. Available in variety of
finished and stretch properties both with and without Lycra.

 Blankets
100% Wool, Wool Rich Blankets & Flannels.

 Garments
Trousers, Jackets, Suits, Shirts, Jeans and Readymade accessories such as Ties, Socks
Handkerchiefs and Leather Belts.

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1.6 RAYMOND GROUP STRUCTURE

RAYMOND
GROUP

CMD

Group

Preside

President President Finance


HR

Textile Denim RAL RZPL Raymond JK Raymond


Ansell Aviation
Rayond- Retail

Celebration Kamasutra
EverBlue
Apparel
Ltd
The
Thane Raymond
Manzoni Shop
Chindwara
Park
Avenue
Vapi
Parx
Jalgaon
ColorPlus
SSAL
Notting Hill

Be:

Zapp!

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1.7 RAYMOND LTD. GAURIBIDANUR
 Raymond Ltd. Gouribidanur was inaugurated on 24th Oct. 2008.
 This is a suits, jackets and trouser manufacturing plant.
 The total area is 11 acres and the build-up area is 2, 00,000 sq. Feet.
 Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, II is a wholly owned subsidiary of Raymond Ltd. marking
the group's foray into the Global Apparel Outsourcing market.
 The facility manufactures high end suits, formal trousers, jackets and vests catering
largely to export markets and are at par with best in class from USA and Europe.
 The state-of-the-art manufacturing facility at the company's Gouribidanur plant
produces 6.06 lacks Jackets, 4.98 lacks Trouser & 0.46 lacks Vest coat annually.
 Set-up at a total project cost of USD 10 million, the facility has a total built-up area of
9 acres feet and houses some of the highly rated equipment including CAD – CAM.
 Over the years the facility has significantly invested in people and processes to win
numerous awards both on manufacturing front and winning culture which has been
widely recognized.

Raymond ltd. Suit Plant is a 100% subsidiary of Raymond Group of Industries. Raymond
Group has become within a short period of time since its incorporation in 1925 a major
global conglomerate. The Group Raymond was set up as a textile Indian major and it has
always nurtured leadership and quality. The chairman and managing director of the group is
Gautam Hari Singhania.
The Label Raymond manufactures the finest fabrics in the world from wool worsted blended
suiting to wool to shirting of high value as well as ring specialty denims. Raymond Label is
one of the leading group in the designer wear, engineering tools & files, denim, air charter
and prophylactics services in both international and national markets, cosmetics & toiletries,
and fabrics. The group has a very wide range of more than 12,000 varieties of suiting that
cater to consumers across all age groups, styles, and occasions. Raymond Group after making
its mark in the textile sector entered the garmenting sector through ventures such as Ever
Blue Apparel Ltd, Silver Spark Apparel Ltd, and Celebrations Apparel Ltd and Raymond Ltd
Suit Plant

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Vision
Crafting world class formal wear and accessories for delivering “The complete man”
globally, whilst value adding to all the stake holders on a sustained basis.

Mission
Consistently manufacture quality garments with a global appeal and meeting the global
aspiration, always.

Create a paradigm shift in the quality of life under privilege sections of the community at
large by including and up skilling them, always.

Create a seamless and safe eco system of internal and external customers who would be
delighted to associate with us, always.
Contribute to the society by way of inventions for socio economic betterment particularly of
women, always.

Figure 3: SSAL II Journey

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1.8 INFRASTRUCTURE

The unit is Asia’s largest single floor suit manufacturing unit.


Raymond Group is equipped with many manufacturing units in Bangalore, Dodaballapura,
Gauribidanaur, Vapi, Mumbai, Chinwada. The Group is all set to establish a new
manufacturing unit near Hindupur (near Gauribidnaur). It will further enhance the production
capacity of the Group. Offices strategically located all over India are operating with a
commitment to excel. Ultramodern technologies lead the Group ahead of the competitors. It
plays the key role in producing the products of superior quality. The unique blend of modern
technologies from all over the world has enabled Raymond Group to maximize its capability.
The latest highlighted-tech machinery is used at every stage, from - designing (CAD),
Cutting (Digitizers, Plotters & Automated Cutting Machines) to Fusing.

CUTTING - The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber & Morgan spreader and cutter
that ensure 100% perfection. It improves turnaround times and expedites the cutting process
with minimal waste and cost. The section also has Band Knife machine and fusing machines.
Most modern CAD systems from Gerber, Intellocut and Lectra are employed for
Computerized Precision Pattern Making, Grading and Marking System. The facility also has
5 CNC cutters. Advanced designing system and elaborate matching processes are employed
to achieve intricate patterns and sophisticated illustration. Both machine and manual methods
are employed for cutting and spreading.

STITCHING - With its wide range of advanced machinery & proficient labour capable of
producing stylized garments with perfection & finesse, the sewing section has a hi-tech
infrastructure. The production lines are UPS based. The production lines are fully integrated
and operational with various types of powered sewing machines from Brother, Juki, Pegasus,
Pfaff, DA, & special machines like Computerized Welt Pocketing Machine, Belt Loop
Attachment Machines, and Multi-Needle Kansai Special Machines & Special sleeve
attaching machine.

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FINISHING - Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality wrinkle
free finishing. Various pressing machines and heat transferring machines are available to
ensure improvement in high functional performance of the garment through specialty
finishing. There are 13 types of buck pressing machine for perfect finish.

INSPECTION - Silver spark has an efficient Final Inspection Department equipped with the
latest equipment. This section plays the most crucial role in ensuring 100% perfection of all
the products. It is inspected that all the features demanded by the clients are designed or not.
The experts thoroughly check all the products to make sure that the perfect products are
delivered to the client. The products carry the brand image of the company. That’s why
utmost care has been taken in this section to ensure that all the products are faultless.

ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE AT SSAL-II

The business is headed by Plant Head who, further, has functional heads supporting him:
 Production Merchandising Head

 Production Head (Jacket & Trouser)

 Finishing Head (Jacket & Trouser)

 Quality Head

 HR/Admin Head

The respective managers of Trims Store, Cutting Department, Industrial Engineering, Sewing
Department, Quality, Finishing & Maintenance department directly report to the Plant Head.
The head of department has an indirect reporting responsibility to the Merchandising
Department. The Merchandising Department has a major role to play and is involved in every
stage of the product development. The Head of Merchandising heads the activities in the
three departments namely merchandising, purchase department and fabric department. The
Head (HR/Admin) heads the activities of the HR department, Admin department and the IT
department.
The Plant Head reports to the General Manager for the various activities and major decision
making in the departments.

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Fabrics &
Trims

Spreading &
Cutting
Jacket Sewing
Sewing
Trouser
Sewing

Asst. Plant Jacket


Manager Finishing
Finishing
Trouser
Maintenance
Finishing

Jacket Quality
Quality
Trouser
Quality
Director Plant Manager Warehouse

HR & Admin

IT

Purchase
Office
Functions
Planning

Accounts

EXIM

Flow Chart 1: Organizational Structure

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CHAPTER – 2
ORGANIZATION’S DEPARTMENT
INTRODUCTION

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2.1 DEPARTMENTS AT SSAL-II
The work flow of Raymond Ltd is a planned and coordinated effort from all the departments.
Giving the importance to quality and precision, checks are performed at every stage of
Manufacture right from pre-production to post-production. There are 14 different
departments in Raymond Ltd. They are:
1. Merchandising Department
2. Sampling Department
3. Planning Department
4. Fabric & Trims Store
5. Cutting Department
6. Sewing Department
7. Finishing Department
8. Quality Assurance
9. Industrial Engineering,
10. Maintenance Department
11. Human Resource & Administration Department
12. Information Technology Department
13. Training Department

All these departments are related to the process of production. The working of departments
and involved processes of production is explained further.

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Process flow of the industry

Order
Order received Product Production
confirmation
from SSAL Merchandising Merchandising
at SSAL

Cutting Fabrics & Pre-Production


Cutting
Quality Trims Sample at
Department
Checking Department SSAL

Sewing Finishing
Sewing Finishing
Quality Quality
Department Department
Checking Checking

Customer
Shipment Warehouse Packing
or Buyer

Flow chart 2: Order Process Flow

2.2 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT


In SSAL - II, there is no separate department for marketing/merchandising. Thus, the
marketing and merchandising activities are being carried out at Head Office and then
coordinated. SSAL-II has its in-house Production merchandising Department which takes
care of the availability of materials and trims required for production. Thus, SSAL-II
procures materials required for production from Head Office. This department acts as a
mediator between Head Office and Sampling & Production Department.
The Merchant are segregated Buyer-wise, the working of merchant’s includes to bring the
sample indent from Head Office to the Sampling Department of the Unit. Merchandiser is
involved in Style meetings which were done whenever a new style or sample had to be
developed.

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2.3 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
Garment sampling is very important process. It is a model of what the bulk production to be
manufactured. The buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality
of the samples. Garment sampling is a very important task in an apparel manufacturing
because it gives the satisfaction of the customer with respect to the product that would be
manufactured. This is in turn important because if the buyer is not satisfied by the samples,
this puts the following at risk:
 Placement of the order
 Acceptance of the some or the entire quantity of garments produced

The sampling department is in constant touch with the merchandising department, which is in
contact with the Head Office where the order is confirmed. The buyer supplies the
specification sheet depending on which the patterns are developed.
Objectives
 Getting approvals from buyers based on the samples produced.
 The Sampling Department develops the sample product from the base patterns which
are sent to the buyer for approval, if there are any changes or alterations to be done in
the sample of product then the buyer informs the Merchandiser who in turn asks the
Sampling Department to make the necessary changes in the sample product as per
requirement.
 Getting pre-production approvals on the fittings, constructions, quality, fabric and
trims of the style.
 Checking and analysing new styles, defining quality terms of new styles to production
department.
 The sampling department also calculates the consumption of fabric required to
produce the garment.
 The sampling department also access for accessories and thread consumption for that
particular garment.
 Based on the sample garment the costing is been carried out.
 When all the Pre-Production Sample is approved by the buyer, the Sampling
Department forwards the Production Marker, which has all the graded sizes of the
approved pattern to the Cutting Department. The Details Attached to the Garment
Sample After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the

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following details attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining
to both, what the buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim, etc. they have
used (if applicable).
 Ref no. and Style no. / Size
 Colour
 Fabric
 Composition
 Description
 Quantity

Operating procedure

Merchant brings Tech Pack and Develops Sample Indent

Sample Indent is handed over to Sampling

Sampling Head conducts Style meeting

Collection of materials and trims

Development of Patterns and then Lay Report

Spreading and cutting of Fabric

Sewing In-Line

Finishing

Final Quality Audit

SCR fill

Sample handed to Company Merchant

Prepare Delivery Challan and Dispatch.

Flow chart 3: Sampling Process Flow

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Style meeting
Sampling head conduct style meeting along with the Sampling Head
Pattern Makers, Spreading and Cutting, Head of Sewing Line, IE of Sewing Line, Quality
Department, Finishing and the company merchant of that buyer, where they discuss all the
specifications and technical issues related to the sample development so as to meet buyer
requirements. Afterwards the process of sample development initiates.
The first sample to be developed is the Proto-Type Sample. After the development of Proto-
Type Sample, it is sent to the buyer for its approval and feedback. After approval of Proto
Type Sample, FIT Sample is developed for base size of the buyer and then sent to buyer for
inspection and feedback related to fit of the product. Thereafter, Merchant receives the
feedback from the Buyer forwarded by the Head Office. The modifications suggested by the
buyer are improvised on the Size-Set Sample developed after FIT Sample.
Size-set sample is followed by a Size-set meeting which involves all members of Style
meeting for discussion on the buyer comments and to meet the buyer requirements. Size set
sample is not sent to the buyer, it is made by the factory for its own reference. Size-set
sample development is followed by Pre-production sample which is developed using actual
fabric and trims. Pre-production sample is then sent to the buyer for its final approval,
meanwhile the production of the garment in sewing line is initiated.
TOP Samples are sent to the buyer from the bulk production to bring to his knowledge the
quality of product being manufactured. These samples are sent only on buyer demand.
Note: All the samples for jacket and waist coat are developed in the sewing line itself while
trouser samples are developed in the sampling department.

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Types of samples

1. Proto sample
This is the first sample being prepared from substitute fabric in only one size. This
sample is sent to buyer agent if not in some case to buyer itself. The pattern prepared
for proto sample does not contain seam allowances. This sample is prepared just to
get the garment outlook and size.
2. Fit sample
Fit samples are those samples that are made after getting the order sheets. These
samples are needed to check the measurements, style, and fit. They can be made
available in similar fabrics in the actual measurements and specifications. In this
sample, all the technical specification of the product are mentioned. The accurate
dimensions of the garment are also specified.
3. Size set samples
This sample is been prepared in order to check perfect fit of different sizes of the
garment. In all sizes one sample is kept for reference.
4. Pre-Production samples
These samples are almost like the approval samples. They are made in actual fabric
with actual bulk trims. In this sample all accessories and fabric being original. The
Q.C. in the production selects one sample and sends it to the Merchandiser; the latter
checked and then sends it to the buyer.
5. Top samples
This is the sample been prepared in the production line during production hours. One
or two samples being sent to the buyer to give the knowledge of the garment how it is
being stitched in the production line. Although none of the buyer’s demand a TOP
sample in this unit.
6. Garment package test
The checking of the trims of sample at final step takes place according to the buyer
spec sheet. Colour fastness, strength, crocking of the sample in testing is done.

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2.4 PLANNING DEPARTMENT
Planning is done in excel sheet instead of any software.
Workflow

Monthly Order Quantity

Order Allocation among 3 Units according to Capacity

Tentative Order Planning Within the Unit

Order Allocation in Line according to Buyer Preference (if any)

Order Breakage according to Monthly Capacity of Line

Actual Planning as per Material Availability

Flow Chart 4: Planning Department Work Flow

Once Tentative Planning is done it is updated on a daily basis during VSM Meeting.

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2.5 FABRIC & TRIMS STORE
Structure of the Department

store
executive

production
store In-
and quality
charge
engineer

assistant store
keeper

Flow Chart 5: Store Hierarchy

2.5.1 FABRIC STORE


The fabric store is the central warehouse for the storage of fabrics required for production.
Fabric stores will take care of received fabric lot as per the standard procedures. When the
fabric is received from the supplier, it is received along with an invoice which will contain
the order reference number and the buyer name. The fabric rolls are then checked whether the
invoice quantity and the actual quantity are same or not. After finishing the formalities of
fabric inward bales will be stacked according to buyer/colors.
Main Functions of the Department:
 Receive the fabric as per BOM.
 Inspect the fabric.
 Conduct set inspections.
 Issue to spreading department as per plan.
 Receive the end bits.

28
Table 1: Types of Material Stored

MATERIAL AVERAGE WIDTH AVERAGE LENGTH


Shell 150 cm 50 m
Lining 59” 150 m
Pocketing 58” 200 yard
Felt 30 m
Fusing 150 m
Canvas 160 cm 50 m

Fabric Issue to:


 Production for production pieces.

 Sampling Department for sampling pieces.

Figure 4: Fabric Store

29
Material Stacking and Tracking System
A wooden board is manually maintained to keep a track on the available materials. It is a
representation of 750 Racks of material on a single wooden board where racks are divided
into 26 sections presented in the alphabetical format from A-Z.
The cards have the name of the buyer written over them with marker where the colour of card
depict different forms of material such as:
Table 2: Material Stacking Board Card Details

CARD SHAPE COLOUR MATERIAL


Square Yellow Shell
Square Orange Lining
Square Green Canvas
Square Red Felt
Square Blue Fusing
Square Grey Pocketing
Rectangular White Supermarket/Sampling
Circular Red Awaiting for Inspection
(Supermarket: The rack where the materials are stored in advanced to be issued for cutting)

Figure 5: Supermarket Area

(Sampling: The rack where the materials are stored in advance for the Sampling)
Material Stacking and Tracking System is updated on a daily basis at 10.00 am to 11.00 am.
Uses
 Easy allocation and Tracking of materials
 Easy to maintain Audit Report for the materials

30
Figure 6: Material Stacking and Tracking System

31
Figure 7: Layout of Fabric Store

Layout of fabric store

32
Process flow of the Fabric Store:

Fabric received from the Supplier/mill.

Unloading

Stacking of goods in the racks

Bale opening

4 point inspection

Bar-coding

12 parameter inspection

fabric inspection report preparation

approval from different merchandiser

Receive requisition

Stage entry and Physically issue with bin-card updation

Flow Chart 6: Fabric Store Flow Chart

33
Fabric Inspection Procedures
100% Quality inspection in fabric is carried out by skilled manpower for Jackets and
Trousers.
The system is followed for inspection based on 12 Parameters:
Table 3: 12 Parameter Test

SERIAL PARAMETERS SAMPLE SIZE


NO.
1 4-Point System 100%
2 Shade Band Card 100%
3 Shade Report 100%
4 Face Side Approval 1 Roll
5 Hand Report 1 Roll
6 Shrinkage Report 5%
7 CSV 5%
8 Colour Fastness 1 Roll
9 Nap Direction/One 1 Roll
way
10 Bowing and 1 Roll
Skewing
11 Width Report 100%
12 Fusing Seam 1 Roll
Slippage

Table 4: 4-Point System Fabric Inspection

FABRIC INSPECTION 4-POINT SYSTEM


Size of Defects Penalty Points
Length of Defects in Fabric (Either Length or Width)
Defects Upto 3 Inches 1
Defects > 3 Inches and < 6 Inches 2
Defects > 6 Inches and < 9 Inches 3
Defects > 9 Inches 4
Holes and Openings (Largest Dimensions)
1 Inch or less 2
Over 1 Inch 4
Notes:
 Standard of Machine Speed should be 6-8 meter/min.
 Standard LUX on Machine should be 1400-1600
The 4-Point System (ASTM D5430)
The test method describes a procedure to establish a numerical designation for grading of
fabric with requirements mutually agreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier.
Points per 100sq meter= (Total point scored in the bulk x 100 x 100) / (Width of the role in
cm x Total Length in Mtrs)
Acceptance Point: Less than or equal to 42 pts per 100 square Mtrs

34
Shade Band Card
The cut fabric pieces are grouped or categorised in A, B, C, and D as per the shade band
family of all rolls.
Face Side Approval
Face side of fabric is ensured against the “Approved swatch card” as it is provided by the
concerned merchant.
This process ensures that spreading is done as per face marking to meet the customer’s
requirement.
Shrinkage
Steam Shrinkage is carried out 5% for different types of fabric so as to avoid any deviation
from actual pattern of the garment during exposure to heat and moisture i.e. pressing and
finishing.
Fusing Shrinkage:
Fusing temperature/pressure/time depends on the fabric content as well as type of fusing.
Standard Shrinkage for non-wash product (Wool Blend): 2-2.5%
Standard Shrinkage for Wash Product: 2.5-3.5%
Shrinkage %= (Before Dimension - After Dimension) * 100/Before Dimension
(Shrinkage Template is Calibrated Monthly)
NAP Direction
Nap is a type of fabric that has texture to it and some kind of pile. Fabric consider to be with
nap would be velvet, velour, corduroy, and suede. If the fabric has nap, one needs to be
careful in laying out the pattern pieces so that the grain line is all going in one consistent
direction.
Width Report
Width of 100% rolls is measured of the received lot.
Standard Acceptance against specified width (+- 2cm)
Colour Fastness
To check the fabric with Perchloro Ethylene and steam water separately for colour fastness.
The assessment is being done by visually comparing the difference in colour or contrast
between the untreated and treated specimens with the differences represented.
Colour fastness is also checked by with wet rubbing in order to determine the resistance of
the colour to rubbing.
Colour fastness is also checked with dry rubbing in order to determine the resistance of the
colour to rubbing.

35
Hand Feel
At the time of face side approval, hand feel is also being checked against the approved
swatch card.
Bowing & Skewing
Bowing refers to the Defect which relates to the placement of any object Non parallel to the
straighten yarn in cloth structure. Skewing is the fabric condition resulting when courses are
angularly displaced from line perpendicular to the edge of the fabric
Sponging
Sponging is done to control shrinkage in the wool and wool blend fabric. It is a process
during which the fabric is passed over a steaming table under minimum tension, followed
immediately by a suction table to cool the fabric and remove excessive moisture.
CSV
1 2 3 4
Above is the sequence for centre to selvedge variation testing.
3 1 4 2
2 4 1 3
The cut parts are re arranged in the above manner.
Seam Slippage
Seam Slippage is the pulling away or separation of the fabric at the seam, causing gaps or
holes to develop. It involves warp and weft threads pulling apart, but not yarn breakage.
Standard to check seam slippage is 25Lbs=11.3Kgs

Other Trims Inspection Criteria with Sample Size


Table 5: Body Lining Inspection Criteria

SERIAL PARAMETERS SAMPLE SIZE


NO.
1 4-Point System 10%
2 Shade Band Card 100%
3 Face Side Approval 1 Roll
4 Hand Feel 1 Roll
5 Colour Fastness 1 Roll
6 CSV 1 Roll
Table 6: Pocketing Inspection Criteria

SERIAL PARAMETERS SAMPLE SIZE


NO.
1 4-Point System 10%
2 Shade Band Card 100%
3 Hand Feel 1 Roll

36
Types of Machines in Fabric Department
Table 7: Machines in Fabric Department

Serial Machine Name No. of Specifications Usage


No. Machines
1 Weishi Fabric 7 Make: Weishi Inspection of Fabric
Inspection Range: 0-99999 meters Defects based on 4-
Machine Max. Speed: 6-8 Point System.
meters/mins
Lux Reqd: 1400-1600
2 Weishi Sponging 1 Make: Weishi To control Shrinkage in
Machine Power supply: 380V wool and wool blend
Steam pressure- 5kg/cm2 fabric.
Steam consumption: 100- Fabric is passed over
150kg/h steaming table under
Rate output of motor kW: min. tension, followed
2.78kw immediately by a
Rate output of heater kW: suction table to cool the
15kw fabric and remove
Working width: 1800mm excessive moisture.
Speed: 3-8m/min
Dimension:
4500*2500*2000mm

3 Relaxation 1 Make: Weishi To unwind the Fabric


Machine with Lycra Composition
to release the stress.
4 Die Cutting 1 Make: Weishi To cut multiple number
Machine of swatches for
Shrinkage Test.

Figure 8: inspection machine

37
Figure 9: Relaxation Machine

Figure 10: Sponging Machine

Figure 11: Die Cutting Machine

38
2.5.2 TRIMS DEPARTMENT

Figure 12: trim store

Objective:
 To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables
 To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
 To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
 To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
 To do audit to check physical inventory

Function of Trims and Packaging Department

 To receive Incoming material and check material for attribute & variables
 To arrange an incoming material in an allocated racks
 To issue trims as per production planning & other material as per requirement
 To mention a record of incoming & outgoing material
 To do audit to check physical inventory

Material Stacking and Tracking System


A wooden board is manually maintained to keep a track on the available trims. It is a
representation of 26 Blocks and a block for rejected materials characterised in alphabetical
format which contributes to 845 Racks. Every rack is represented with a fibre card.
The cards have the name of the buyer printed over them where the colour of card depict
different forms of trims such as:
Table 8: Trims Stacking System Card Details

CARD SHAPE COLOUR MATERIAL


Square Yellow Thread
Square White Zipper Tape and Slider
Square Orange Common Trims
Square Green Waist Band Lining
Square Grey Labels
Square Navy Button
Square Indigo Shoulder Pads
Square Sky Blue Size Ring
Square Yellow Hang Tag
Rectangular White Joker Tag
Rectangular Orange Packing Trims
Supermarket Area: The Racks with the materials to be issued for production one day in
advance
Rejected Materials: The racks where the materials are stored that have failed in Quality
Inspection.
Material Stacking and Tracking System is updated on a daily basis at 10.00 am to 11.00 am.
Uses
 Easy allocation and Tracking of materials
 Easy to maintain Audit Report for the materials

Figure 13: Material Stacking and Tracking System


Trim Store Layout

Figure 14: Trim Store Layout


Flow Chart 7: Trims Store Workflow

Types of trims
Sewing Trims:

 Sewing thread  Stopper wire


 Waist band lining  Hook & Bar
 Band Roll: Waist Band, loop  Labels:
 Fusing: Waist Band, Loop, Part o Size label
o Wash care label
 Button
o Brand / Main label
 Zipper tape
o Additional label
 Zipper slider o Sleeve label

Finishing Trims:

 Poly Bag  Bullet tag pin


 Carton Box  Tag
 Hanger  Jet Clip
 Cartoon box  Staple Pin
 Cello tape  Size ring
Quality Inspection

Table 9: AQL 2.5

Size in unit Sample size Max N` defectives


51-90 13 0
91-150 20 1
151-280 32 2
281-500 50 3
501-1200 80 5
1201-3200 125 7
3201-10000 200 10
10001-35000 315 14
35001 and more 500 21

Formula used for inspection of total quantity

Number of boxes * 2 = Number of packets should be inspected


Quantity should be matched with above table and.....
Number of pieces would be inspected = Sample size / Number of packets should be inspected
All trims in roll form are inspected for 10% of its quantity.
Quality Inspection Instructions
Accessory Inspection Parameters as per 2.5 AQL
LABEL  Shade variation
 Parameters SHOULDER PAD
 Uneven folding on sides  Shape
 Shade variation  Notch
 Incorrect print  Fusing
 Poor fastness to washing
JOKER TAG
THREAD  Price
 Parameters  Ran number
 Shade variation  Item number
 Wrong count  Content
 Ticket number  Sub number

BUTTON BESOM TAPE


 Parameters  Fusible/not fusible
 Shade variation
 Raw edge HOOK & EYE / BUCKLE
 Uneven thickness  Damages
 Content of metal used
W/C LABEL  Article number
 Composition
 Country of Origin ZIPPER & SLIDER
 Content  Shade
 Symbols  uniformity
 W/C instructions
Trim Details for Jackets:
 Shoulder pad  Armhole tape
 Thread  Double sided fusing with paper
 Button  Double sided fusing without paper
 Size label  Size ring
 Neck label  Poly bag
 Wash Care label  Carton
 Sleeve label  Hang tag
 Main label or brand label  Joker tag
 COO (country of origin) label  Sticker
 Piping (if demand)  Hanger
 Bridle tape  Strings
 Besom tape  Button pouch

Different tickets threads are used for different purposes.


They are long thin strands cotton, nylon or other fibers used in sewing which come in various
lengths and ticket numbers.
Table 10: Thread and Ticket Number

Ticket number Used for


30 Gimp thread, Button hole
70 Button hole, Saddle stitch
80 Pick stitch
100 Top stitch
120 Top stitch, Shell thread, Pocketing, O/L
150 Lining
160 Over lock & surging
180 O/L –trouser (JCP,PL,PS)
240 Bottom hem
360 Bottom hem
Ascolite Button wrapping
The thread being used is Guttermann. Each cone has 5000 meter of thread in it. Thread is
100% polyester and core yarn. This brand has got less thread breakage in comparison to other
thread manufacturer and helps in avoiding seam-puckering problem.
2.6 CUTTING DEPARTMENT

Plant Manager

Asst. Plant
Manager

Executive Sr. Executive


Cutting Cutting

Executive
Executive
Cutting - Officer CAD
Cutting -Jacket
Trouser

CAM/Cutting CAM/Cutting
Operator Operator

Flowchart 8: Structure of Department

Department Capacity:
1. Jackets
Solid: 3500 Pieces/day
Checks: 3150 Pieces /day
Waistcoat: 500 Pieces /day
2. Trousers
Solid: 3600 Pieces / day
Checks: 3000 Pieces/ day
2.6.1 CAD DEPARTMENT
At SSAL-II CAD department is responsible for planning and assisting in the fabric cutting
process. The department needs product information and bill of material from merchandising
department. Then digitize patterns from pattern development department. CAD department
uses 9 parameter fabric report from fabric store for planning a particular order. There are
various easy to use software which simplify the work of cutting and planning.
Flow chart 9: CAD work flow

CAD Software Details:

Software Uses
Gerber version 8.2 Pattern making, Pattern grading, Marker making

Morgan Technica Cut plan, Numbering sequence

Accunest Marker making of small parts

Cut issue & FCR generator Cut issue slip, Final cut report

Table 11: Best Marker Efficiency

PRODUCT EFFICIENCY Marker Type


Jacket 86.78% 1 Way Marker (4-Way for Check)
Trouser 87.73% Up to 12 Way Marker
Vest Coat 84.28%
Suit 86.70%

Table 12: CAD Software Details


2.6.2 SPREADING
The spreading was being done manually as well as with the help of automatic spreader. It was
done manually in case of a high probability of occurrence of bowing or skewing problem in
the fabric, mostly when it comes to striped fabric. 80% of lining fabric was spread and end
cut manually because of bowing and skewing problem.

Workflow

1. Fabric is received from fabric store department along with following details:

 Usable fabric width

 Colour /shade code

 Length of rolls
2. Spreading operator receive lay report from CAD consisting of following details:

 Purchase Order

 Style Number

 Lay Number

 Lay method –Face up / Face to Face

 Lot quantity

 Marker length

 Lay length

 Usable fabric width

 No of plies to be spread

 Consumption

3. Spreading operator starts laying and in case of machine spreading, operator loads
fabric roll in the cradle of machine and set the machine parameter as per lay details.

4. After completion of each roll; operator have to mention following details in spreading
/ laying report:-
 Roll reference number
 Fabric roll width
 Fabric usable width
 Fabric roll length
 Colour /shade code
 Usage in meters
 Balance quantity

5. Spreading Check Points:


 Stretch –Warp way & Weft way
 Fabric stability
 Fabric direction e.g. Nape, Twill
 Wrinkle or Stretch in a spread ply
 Left side edge of fabric ply should be aligned to each other
 Extreme ends of plies should be aligned
 Fabric laid should be 1 to 1 ½ cm more than the marker length
 The fabric laid should never be less than marker width
 Only relaxed/sponged fabric to be spread if buyer required so.

 No defective or rejected fabric to be laid & fabric defects should be marked with
white chalk

Load Fabric roll

Position the roll according to start selvedge

Specify the no. of rolls to be laid

Spread the brown paper on lay table

Set up start end clamp determining lay length

Laying

Start air blower during transferring of lay to cutting m/c end

Flow Chart 10: Spreading Process Flow


Spreading Medium:

1. Manual Spreading:
In manual spreading, fabric is drawn from
its package which, is supported by a frame
and carried along the table where the end
is secured with the help of weights. After
laying one ply operator use rotary blade to
cut the end of the ply and then lay another
ply and so on. The operators work back
from the end, aligning the edges and
ensuring that there is no tension and that Figure 15: Manual Spreading

there are no wrinkles on the plies.

2. Machine spreading:
In Machine spreading first of all fabric roll is installed on the spreader and then end of the
fabric is hold by the catcher. As it lay the first ply, operator ensures that there are no wrinkles
in the ply and after laying one ply, end cutter cuts the end of ply and spreader moves to
spread next ply.
Spreading Machine
Gerber SY 101TT- 2 machines
Morgan Razor – 1 machine
Spreading machine includes:

 A motor to drive.
 A platform on which the operator rides.
 A ply cutting device with automatic catcher
to hold the ends of ply in place.
 A ply counter.
 An alignment shifter actuated by photo
electric edge guides.

Figure 16: Machine Spreading

Spreading Modes:
• For Trousers
 Solid: Face up
 Checks and stripes: Face to face
 Lining: Face up
 Fusing: Face up

• For Jackets
 Shell(Solid, Checks and Stripes): Face to face
 Lining: Face up
 Fusing: Face to face
 Sleeve lining:
o Stripe: Face to face
o Solid: Face up
 Pin table used for spreading check and striped fabric.
Pinning
Pinning is an additional step required for plaid matching (stripes and checks). In such cases,
Spreading is done on pinning tables. Pinning table consists of intermediate rows and columns of
needles /pins which were so placed that they can be removed in rows along the length by the
means of hand wheel. There were indications in the marker about the places where the plaid
matching is required and length from zero position will be given.
After the spreading process is complete the lay is transported to cutting process. During
transportation, the fabric lays are held together with the help of clamps to make sure that the
alignment remains same. Table blower is utilized to help in easy transportation.

2.6.3 CUTTING
Cutting of lay is done using straight knife, band knife and automatic Gerber cutter; and manual
cutting with the help of scissor in case of recutting.

Figure 17: Gerber GTXL Cutter


Workflow

Table 13: Workflow of Cutting

SEQUENCE ACTIVITIES ACTIVITY BREAKDOWN


Holding the lay at two ends
Blower is required for heavy lays
1 LAY PULLING Pulling to 1/4 (avg) of cutter surface
Starting the Conveyor to fill the bite area
Unrolling the cover paper
Uploading the marker code
LOADING CUT Setting Material type(Lining,wool,shell)
2
FILE Setting Lay type(High,Medium,Low)
Setting Vacuum
Fixing start point that covers all the plies

Checking for marker width (left) coverage (2 movements)


3 SETTING ORIGIN Checking for marker Length coverage (1 movement)

Checking for marker width (right) coverage (1 movement)


Bringing the cutter to the Cut start point (1 movement)
4 START CUTTING
Take the miniature marker
5 STICKERING See for the finished cut piece
Put the sticker over the cut pieces accordingly
Turning the switch ON for the shifting of finished bite
6 BITE SHIFTING CTOT Coveyor runs simultaneously
Turning the switch OFF of CTOT Conveyor
Picking the rubber band
TYING OF CUT Tying the cut pieces
7
PIECES Sorting the pieces according to their size
Carrying it to the numbering Table
2.6.4 NUMBERING

After cutting, bundles are placed on numbering table for numbering / ticketing. Before cutting, a
poly sheet is laid on the lay, on which size of panels is mentioned. Numbering is done for lining
fabric panels while ticketing is done for shell fabric which have small stickers that includes size
and serial number of the panel. Operator do numbering /ticketing with the reference of lay report
which consists of information like:
o Lot number.
o Purchase order
o Style
o Colour
o Number of plies

Numbering Place Value

(a) For trouser, Numbering consists of 10 digits

Digit Nomenclature
1 First number of waist size
2 Second number of waist size
3 First number of inseam size
4 Second number of inseam size
5 to 10 Serial number

In presentation, it is written below as follows: -


__ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ __ i.e. (1 To 10,000 Serial No)
Waist Inseam Serial Number

 For a particular purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order quantity.
 Irrespective of size and colour number is given as per the purchase order & lay number.

(b) For Jacket numbering consists of 8 digits

Digit Nomenclature
1 Number of front buttons
2 Fixed alphabet ‗S‘, that stands for size
3 to 5 Jacket size
6 to 8 Serial number of panel
For a particular colour of purchase order, number starts from one and end at last cut order
quantity. As per jacket size and serial number, digit number varies.

Numbering Check Points:


 Face side and backside should be checked with swatch card.
 First ply of layer should be observed properly.
 Numbering should be done on backside of panel.
 Number should not skipped
 Number should be clear & at defined position.
 Numbering should vanish after required time period.
 Numbered parts should be bundle correctly.

2.6.5 INSPECTION
Quality checking is an essential process for checking for visual defects in parts concentrated on
weaving defects. This is essential a quality department process in which cut panel in random is
checked for the dimensional accuracy by placing the top, middle, and bottom ply of any bulk
parts on graded nested patterns. This process is usually performed to make sure that after cutting
process and fusing, the part dimensions are intact. Any defect found here is sent for re-cutting,
where parts are cut manually.

Figure 18: Inspection Table


Operator has to do inspection on 2.5 Acceptance Quality Level (AQL) bases. If lot gets rejected
on 2.5 AQL bases, then go for 100 % inspection.
100 per cent checking is done on Size sheet which contains pattern of different sizes. Panel
checking is not done for small parts like bone, flap, pocket lining, etc.

(a) Cut panel pattern inspection: Operator is to inspect panel against respective
pattern for
o Size
o Shape of panel
o Notch
.
(b) Fabric defect inspection: Operator has to do 100 % panel inspection i.e. individual
panel is to get inspected for following defects: -
o Yarn defects,
o Weaving defects,
o Finishing defects,
o Cutting defects, and
o Spreading defects.
Note: Operator has to check panel on transparent glass checking table-having light 500-600 Lux.

Operator has to remove defective panel from a lay and simultaneously, record defects in ‘Check
Point Format‘. Followed by that, operator is to give defective panels to re-cutting section by
maintaining record of following details in internal re-cutting format.
 Purchase Order
 Style name
 Colour
 Part Name or Number
 Lay number
 Serial number

Note: Re-cutting section is to recut panel from the respective ply end bit to replace defective
panel of a lay, do numbering and if necessary get it fused and give it back to Panel inspection
section. Operator has to again inspect the recut panel, put it into respective bundle and update a
record before issuing to sewing section.
Points to be noted during inspection:

 Cut panel inspection is to be conducted in a separate sub-section in cutting department.


 The defect standards to be displayed in subsection: i.e. acceptable, rejected is clearly
marked and displayed separately.
 Replacement of defective part is to take place from same roll or same roll end-bits to
avoid any shade variation.

Panel Inspection & Matching Point:


Operator has to inspect & match respective panel as follows:

JACKET - Front Panel


o Size, shape and notch
o Front panel to side panel
o Front- dart cut at same point
o Right front to left Front
o Front to top sleeve
o Front panel – flap pocket
o Front panel to chest pocket

Back Panel
o Size shape & notch
o Back panel to collar
o Back panel to back panel centreline
o Back panel to side panel

Sleeve
o Size, shape and notch
o Top sleeve to under sleeve

Lapel
o Size, shape and notch
o Lapel to lapel
o Lapel to front panel

TROUSER -Front Panel:


o Size shape and notch
o Front panel to back panel
o Front panel to pocket facing
Back Panel
o Size shape and notch
o Back Panel to back panel at seat seam.

Waist band
o Right waist to left waistband
o Left waistband to left extension

Note: Solid fabric inspects size, shape & notch. Checks & Strips inspects size, shape, notch &
matching point as mentioned above.

2.6.6 RE-CUTTING
Re-cutting was being done for defective or damaged panels in cutting. Generally darning was
also done in the same area. Re-cutting was generally done for the missing pieces from cutting,
i.e. panels which had some fabric related issues.

2.6.7 BAND KNIFE


Parts which are cut as bigger blocks in pinning are brought here and matched against each other
to make sure that the plaid matching is achieved. The plaid matching is essential for standard
features of any stripe/ checks garment. As in pinning, there will be underneath needle which are
set at the desired position and the parts can be adjusted as per the plaid repeat requirement. After
the requirement parts are matched, they are tied together by means of knotting. Then ready
patterns are placed over the bulk plies and bound by means of end clips. Care should be taken
here to make sure that the grain line remains the same while placing the ready patterns.
After this, the parts are taken for band knife cutting on band knife machine. Band knife machine
essentially consists of a revolving knife placed on pulleys run by motor. The knife generates a
vibrating movement which will enable cutting process. Hand gloves are mandatory while
operating this machine.
Collar and Neck Bands are cut only with Band knife as they provide clean edge with accuracy in
Cutting.
2.6.8 FUSING
Fusing process is one of the most important processes in cutting department. Fusing materials
essentially provide strength, stiffness and stability to the garment and adds to the presentation of
the garment.
Before fusing, the fusing machine must be set as per the required parameters for particular
fabrics and fusing. A standard guideline about the fusing setting will be given from fabric
section. Another important process here is Fuse Line Bond Testing. Bond testing is a process of
mechanically testing the fuse line pressure (in kgs) by means of mechanical weight scale. The
process is performed at starting of any new style and the same displayed alongside the machine.
Also the fusing machine are tested for temperature manually by means of temperature thermo
strips twice a day to make sure temperature calibration is intact , since the machine is influenced
by outside weather and climate.
The most important area of garment construction where an alternative process has significantly
taken over from sewing is in the attachment of interlinings. On large parts such as jacket fronts,
the attachment of interlinings by sewing is expensive and requires a skill if a high standards is to
be achieved. The alternative process which has been developed is that of fusing.

Types of fusing used in the plant:


1. Body Fusing- They are basically a knitted fusing, which is fused at front panel of the jacket
and also sometimes at lapel, depending upon buyer requirement. They are generally white or
black in color.

2. Part Fusing-They were basically non-woven fusing, which were fused at different part of the
panels like collar, shoulder, side seam, inseam, arm-hole ,bottom line, dart, pocket, bone, flap
etc. They are generally white or charcoal in color.

3. NR Fusing- They are so called because of presence of nylon thread in non-woven fusing.
They are used to strengthen the seams and are fused at side seam, in- seam, collar& shoulder
.They are generally white or black in color.

4. White Fusing – This fusing is named after its color. It is used in few parts of panel which are
as buyer requirement.
Fusing Machines:
There are 9 fusing machine used in SSAL-II, of which 7 is used for jacket components and rest 2
for trouser panels. The fusing machines used for jacket fusing are as follows:

Table 14: Available Fusing Machines

Machine type .No. of machine


Kannegiesser 5
Weishi 1
Reliant Cool stream 1

ManPower for Fusing: There are 10 operators for feeding the parts and 1 operator for collecting
these parts. The distribution for each part is as follows:
Feeding:
 Front – 3 Operators
 Back and top-sleeve – 3 Operators
 Side-panel and In-sleeve – 1 Operator each
 Lapel – 1 Operator
 Small Parts – 1 Operator
Note- Small parts includes Collar, Neck band, Welt, Bone and Flap.
Operator is to observe lay report to know following details:
o Lot Number
o Purchase order
o Style
o Colour
o Number of plies
o Serial number

Normal working parameters are as follows:

Buyer Temperature Pressure Speed


Raymond 130 – 150 degree C 3 Bar 3.6 m/min
Once working parameters are approved, operators is to observe following things before starting
bulk fusing operation:
o Correct shell and fuse type.
o Correct shell and fuse size.
o Correct shell and fuse colour and shade.
o Correct working parameter of a fusing material.
.
Operator has to pass material gently on the conveyor belt of fusing machine and collect fused
material gently without any fold or wrinkle. Operator has to do fusing panel wise, size wise and
colour wise.

Figure19: Fusing Figure 20: Fusing Machine Feeding

Parts Which Need Fusing:


Jacket

 Front- Armhole, Shoulder, Neck, Dart.


 Lapel- Lapel Fusing, N R Fusing Piece.
 Top Sleeve- Sleeve Armhole Fusing With Moon Patch, Bottom Fusing.
 Back- Shoulder, Neck, Back Armhole, Bottom and Vent.
 Side Panel- Armhole, Bottom.
 In Sleeve-Armhole, Bottom.
Waist Coat

 Front- Front Edge, Armhole, Shoulder, Body


 Side Panel- Armhole, Bottom
 Facing-Lapel, Bottom, Neck
Trouser

 Waist Band
 Right And Left Fly
 Bone

2.7 SEWING DEPARTMENT
Sewing department’s function is the crucial and most vital job in a garment industry. This is the
place where actual production takes place. After the fabric is released from cutting, it is loaded to
the sewing department for the sewing.
THE SEWING SECTION AT SSAL II COMPRISED OF:
1. Jacket Lines

2. Trouser Lines
There were 8 jacket lines out of which Line 7 was involved in manufacturing jacket and 1 for
waistcoats. Trouser section had 6 lines. Each line had a Production Executive, Line Incharge,
Quality Checker and an Industrial Engineer.
DEPARTMENT CAPACITY:
Jackets: 3500 Pieces/day
Waistcoat: 500 Pieces / day
Trousers: 2900 Pieces /day

LINE WISE DETAILS FOR JACKET & WAISTCOAT:


Table 155: Line Wise Details

Production I.E. Technician Quality Quality In- Line In- Manpower


Executive Manager Executive charge charge

Line -1 Vimal Shrawan Davis R K Das Anil James Mokhtar 103

Line -2 Vimal Laches Davis R K Das Ranjan Ravi 111

Line -3 Rakesh Prashant Davis R K Das Ved Prakash Ajay 113

Line -4 Sandeep Prashant Davis R K Das Anji Bablu 106

Line -5 Tushar Shrawan Davis R K Das Padam Gopal 99

Line -6 Tushar Laches Davis R K Das Ramamji Sunil 103

Line -7 Anupam Sunidhi Davis R K Das Roja.A Tara 85


Reddy
2.7.1 JACKET SECTION

Types of Jackets that were being made at SSAL II are as follows:


 Half Lining (Butterfly Lining )
 No vent
 Single Centre Vent
 Double vent (one on each side)
 Full Lining

VARIOUS TYPE OF MATERIAL USED IN JACKET WERE:


 Shell fabric
 Lining fabric
 Knitted fusing
 Parts Woven fusing
 Woven Reinforcement
 Canvas
 Felt

TOTAL NO.OF PANELS IN A JACKET


Table 16: Shell Parts of a Jacket Table 17: Small Parts of a Jacket

SHELL FABRIC SMALL PARTS


Part Cut Panel/s Part Cut Panel/s
Front 2 Chest Felt 2
Back 2 Chest Canvas 2
Side Panel 2 Small Chest Canvas 2
Front Facing 2 Patti 2
Top Sleeve 2 Big Chest Canvas 2
Under Sleeve 2 Sleeve Head Felt 2
Breast Pocket 1 Sleeve Head Canvas 8
Breast Pocket Facing 1
Top Collar 1 Table 19: Lining Parts of a Jacket

Collar Band 1 LINING FABRIC

Front pocket Bone 2 Part Cut Panel/s

Front Pocket Flap 2 Back 2

TOTAL 20 Front 2
Side body 2
Table 18: Total Parts of a Jacket Top sleeve 2
Small Parts 20 Under sleeve 2
Lining Parts 29 Cigarette pocket lining 1
Shell Parts 20 Welt pocket 2
Parts Fusing 14 Front arm tape 1
Reinforcement 3 Flap lining 2
Knitted Fusing 5 Triangle flap 1
TOTAL PARTS (JKT) 91 Cigarette pocket bone 1
Cigarette pocket face 1
In pocket facing 2
In pocket bone 2
Pocket face 2
Sweat shield 4
TOTAL 29
TRIMS & ACCESSORIES USED IN A BASIC JACKET
1) Shoulder pad
2) Thread
3) Satin tape
4) Size label
5) Neck label
6) Content/Care label
7) Sleeve label
8) Main label or brand label
9) Bridle tape Felling tape
10) Armhole tape
11) Double sided fusing with paper
12) Double sided fusing without paper
13) Poly bag
14) Hanger

Jacket section is composed of:


 Small Parts Section- Chest Canvas, Pocket Flap, Sleeve Head Roll, Breast Pocket
 Front Section
 Lining and collar Section
 Sleeve Section
 Assembly Section
The sewing SAM for a basic Jacket is approx. 65-70 min. The Jacket line follows the UPS
system of production. The material moves on pneumatically controlled overhead hangers. The
target output for each Jacket as well as Waistcoat line was 500 pieces/day while the standard
WIP of the line was 356 Jackets. Every line has an installed Kanban board which displayed the
real time WIP of the line. Apart from Kanban board, there was a Production counter which
displayed real time output of the line.
PROCESS FLOW CHART JACKET
1. FRONT SECTION

Front CB join Dart stitch Dart press Side panel


marking attach

Breast pckt Breast pckt Side panel Side panel Armhole tape
bone ready bone att. seam press seam open attach

Breast pckt Breast pckt Coin pckt Flap pckt Flap pressing
cut & press zigzag welting welting att

Pckt bag Breast pckt Welt pressing Coin pocket Flap making
tacking bag att. pressing

Pckt basting Pckt bag Chest canvas Bridal tape Chest canvas
closing parts stitch att fusing

Side seam Shoulder pad Canvas cut at Body Blind hem


join basting armhole pressing

Side seam Shoulder Shoulder Shoulder pad inspection


press seam join seam press fusing

Flow Chart 11: Front Section


2. LINING SECTION

Peninsula & Peninsula


Saddle Stitch Lapel Attach Facing Pressing
Patch Attach Facing Pressing

Pocket Bag Main Label Pocket Bag Welt Pocket


Lining Welting
Attah & Close Attach Bartack Press

Side Panel CB Join With Collar Attach &


SS Join All Seam Press
Attach Pleat Neck Close

Briddle Tape George Seam Bartack at CB


Inspection SH Seam Join
Attach Press Lining

Flow Chart 12: Lining Section Flow

3. COLLAR SECTION

Collar & Collar


Felt Attach Collar Edge Collar
Neck Band Piping Basting
to Collar Stitch Pressing
Press Pressing

Flow Chart 13: Collar Section Flow


4. SLEEVE SECTION

Sleeve Elbow Elbow


Shamhole Vent Cuff
Fusing Seam Seam
Sew Making Pressing
Pressing (Shell) Pressing

Lining Lining
Elbow Inseam Inseam Button
Attach to Inseam
Tacking Press Close Sew
Shell Sew

Sleeve
Sleeve Sleeve
Gathering
Tacking Final Press
Stitch
Flow Chart14: Sleeve Section Flow

5. ASSEMBLY SECTION
NOTE: Process flow may vary from style to style as per buyer requirements.

Collar Zig- Front Edge Front Edge


Pairing Peak Sew Trimming
Zag Basting Sew

Sleeve Front Edge


Bottom Bottom
Head Lapel Press Peak Press seam Open
Press Attach
Making Press

Sleeve
Lapel Buck Sleeve A/H SH Pad
Head Roll Basting
Press Attach Pressing Attach
Attach

Lining
Sleeve Collar SH Basting
Vent Kinari A/H Close Bastingat
Kinari Topstitch At A/H
A/H

B/H &
Hanger Bartack at
Flowerhole B/H Trimming Inspection
Marking Loop B/H End

Flow Chart15: Assembly Section


2.7.2 WAIST COAT
Waistcoat was being manufactured in Line 7. Line 7 also manufactures Jackets but it depends on
the order and its quantity.
Line Executive Line Quality Manpower No. of No. of
Technician Checker Operations Machines
8 Anupam Ravindra Roja A 85 60-65 52
Kumar Kumar Reddy

Number of operations vary from style to style and also includes helping operations.
NO. OF PANELS IN WAISTCOAT
Table20: Waist Coat Shell Parts Table 21: Waist Coat Lining Parts

SHELL FABRIC LINING FABRIC


Parts Cut Panel/s Part Cut Panel/s
Front 2 Back 4
Side Panel 2 Front 2
Front Facing 2 Side body 2
Welt Pocket 4 Rectangular Tab 2
Front pocket Bone 4 Triangular Tab 2
Bottom Facing 2 Pocket Lining 8
Neck Patch 1 TOTAL 20
TOTAL 17

Total number of Panels in a Waist Coat = 37


PROCESS FLOW OF WAISTCOAT:
1. SMALL PARTS SECTION

Flow Chart 16: Small Parts W/C

2. FRONT & BACK SECTION

Flow Chart 17: Front and Back Flow W/C


3. LINING SECTION

Flow Chart 16: Lining Section Flow W/C


Flow Chart 18: Lining Section

4. ASSEMBLY SECTION

Flow Chart 19: Assembly Section Flow W/C


2.7.3 TROUSER
There were 6 trouser lines in the unit and the operation of Trousers line is categorized into three
sections:
 Preparatory section
 Front and back line
 Assembly line.

In the preparatory section the basic parts of the garment are made and graded for the production.
Then it is send to the front and back end line where the front side and the backside of a trouser
are made and finally to the assembly line for the final assembling of the parts.
The material handling and movement in the preparatory and front & back sections is on waterfall
trolleys and the assembly lines are based on UPS system. The material flow is on manually
controlled overhead trolleys.

LINE DETAIL OF TROUSER


Table 22: List Detail of Trouser

Production I. E. Line Technical Quality Quality


Executive Incharge Manager Executive Incharge
LINE - 1 Dheeraj and Jubai ----- Narendra Devsopan Krishan Apa
Sumit
LINE - 2 Dheeraj and Jubai ----- Narendra Devsopan Anand
Sumit
LINE - 3 Dheeraj and Jubai Pardeep Narendra Devsopan Aswath
Sumit
LINE - 4 Dheeraj and Ram Valmiki Narendra Devsopan Babu Khan
Sumit
LINE - 5 Dheeraj and Ram Hari Narendra Devsopan Vasanth
Sumit Babu
LINE - 6 Dheeraj and Ram Hari Narendra Devsopan Muthu
Sumit Babu
PROCESS FLOW
1. PREPARATORY SECTION

Pocket W/ B & Loop


Loop Sew W/B Fusing W/B Folding
Autofacing Pieces Join

Zip Attach to Fuse Fly &


Cut & Gaze Zip Left Fly Binding Right Fly O/L
Fly Bone

Right Fly
Front Pocket Front Pocket
Attach to Left
Bag Close TopStitch
Fly
Flow Chart 20: preparatory flow of trouser

2. FRONT AND BACK SECTION


Panel
Knee Dart Pairing
Serging Sew Back Back Rise
Lining Pressing & (Front,
with Knee Darts Binding
Pinking Fusing Back, W/B)
Pocket Lining
Booking & Loops & W/B Attach W/B
Loops Attach W/B Attach
Side Pocket Marking Lining
Locking Front Attach Back Back
B/H Back Pocket
Pocket Front pocket Pocket
pocket Topstitch
Pressing pocket Pressing Welting
Lock W/B
Hook & Bar Attach Right
J- Stitch
Bartack Press FlyRun Stitch Extension&
ButtonAttach Fly Lining
Back Pocket
Lock Top Pocket
TurnStay
Back Attach to Back Main Label
Back Pocket Welt Attach Stitch
Pocket Pocket

SeamRise Inseam Slider & BradLeft & Press


FrontSeat
Rise
Front ES Right Fly SSJoin Attach Right Fly BAck Rise SewO/L
Facing
Bursting Join Seam
Serging
Attach
Flow Chart 21: Front and Back Flow Trouser
Flow Chart 22: Assembly 1 Trouser

3. ASSEMBLY 1
4. ASSEMBLY 2

Bartack at Loops Down B/H on Button Attach on


Pocket & Fly Bartack Waistband Waistband

Bottom Pintack at Curtain Fell


Loops Finish
Overlock Waistband Waistband

Button Loop Cutting &


Bottom Hem Tack Crotch
Wrapping, Triming

Flow Chart 23: Assembly 2 Trouser

STRUCTURE OF A SEWING LINE


Director

Asst. Plant
Manager

Production Production
Executive Executive

I.E I.E.

Technical
Manager

Quality
Executive

Line Incharge

Team Leader Team Leader Team Leader

Operators

Flow Chart 24: Sewing Line Structure


2.8 FINISHING DEPARTMENT

 THE OBJECTIVES OF THE FINISHINGS ARE:

o Improve the appearance of the garments


o Improve the drape by pressing
o Improve the durability of the garments
o Packing for dispatch

The finishing facility at Raymond is highly mechanised with modern state of art machinery. It is
used for both jackets as well as trousers. The finishing process for jackets and trousers is as given
below:

2.8.1 JACKET FINISHING

Figure 215: Jacket Finishing


No. of Jacket Finishing Lines: 6
Jacket Finishing Capacity: 500
Machines Brands- Weishi
Operators in finishing section
Table 23: Operators in Finishing Section

Line No. No. of Operators


1 26
2 26
3 26
4 26
5 26
6 26

JACKET FINISHING DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE

Mr.Deepak
Kumar
(Jacket
Finishing Head)

Mr.Deodut
t (I.E)

Mr. Manish
Mr.Murgan
Kumar Mr.Ramavatar
(Supervisor
(Supervisor (Supervisor)
)
)

Team Team Team Team Team Team


Leader Leader Leader Leader Leader Leader

Operators Operators Operators Operators Operators Operators

Flow Chart 25: Jacket Finishing Organizational Structure


PROCESS FLOW
It involves the following steps:

Spot Sleeve Back Front Shoulder


Washing Pressing Pressing Pressing Pressing

Collar Elbow Lining


Nipping Blocking
Pressing Pressing Pressing

Button Wrapping Lapel Quality


Touch-up
Attach & Knotting Pressing Check

Auditing Packing

Flow Chart 26: Jacket Finishing Process Flow

WASHING OF GARMENT:
1. Tools used:
 Air gun/chemical gun
 Boiler water/ per-chloro ethylene/ surgical spirit.
2. Functions:
 To remove white pencil mark per-chloro ethylene is used.
 To remove water mark, patch mark, pen mark surgical spirit is used
PRESSING:
 Sleeve press
 Back press
 Front press
 Elbow press
 Shoulder press
 Collar press
 Nipping(under armhole press)
 Blocking(outer armhole press)
 Lining press
 Lapel press

PACKING:
 Brand tag.
 Size ring.
 Joker tag.
 Hanger sticker.
 Poly bag
 Sleeve label
 Hang tag
 Extra Buttons (2 buttons ; 1- 24L and 1- 32L)

2.8.2 TROUSER FINISHING

Figure 162: trouser finishing


TROUSER FINISHING DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE
Mr.DEVSOPAN NAYAK
Trouser Finishing Head

Mr.Anappa
Supervisor

Team Leader Team Leader Team Leader

Flow Chart 27: Finishing Organizational Structure

PROCESS FLOW
No. of Trouser Finishing Lines: 6
Trouser Finishing Capacity: 600
It involves the following steps:

Thread Thread
Legger
Trimming sucking/Dusting

Topper Touch Up Spotting

Quality Check Packing

Flow Chart 28: Trouser Finishing Flow


The trouser finishing department is very small as compare to jacket finishing. It includes
following sub-processes.
1. Spot cleaning
 Uses spirit or per-chloro ethylene for spot cleaning purpose.
2. Legger press
3. Topper press
4. Packing
 Brand tag.
 Size ring
 Poly bag
 Bar code
 Hanger
 Cartons
 Waistband tag
 Poly bag stickers

TROUSER QUALITY
For Trousers the following are the Quality Check points:

– Panels Quality Check after cutting


– Inline Checking Random Measurement is done at
– Inline
– End Line
– After finishing auditor checking is done.
– At warehouse level internal audit is done.
ABOUT FILES IN TROUSER QUALITY DEPARTMENT

In file all the documents related to the Product is to be present which are essential in order to
proceed for correct Quality Product which are as follows:

1. RAM REPORT
2. SIZE SET REPORT
3. BOM
4. FABRIC SWATCH CARD
5. THREAD SHEET
6. TECHPACK
7. APPROVED TRIMS CARD
8. P.O SHEET
9. BUYER COMMENTS
10. SIZE SET COMMENTS, IF ANY

*NOTE: Table display to be done before Style running

ABOUT REPORTS IN TROUSER QUALITY DEPARTMENT

There are two types of report:

1. Defect Report:
a. Alteration Tracking
b. Bi-hourly Quality in charge signature
c. Defect Entry
d. DHU & FTT Calculation
e. Production & Quality In charge Signature
2. Measurement Report:
a. Minimum 20pcs to be measured every day.
b. How to measure to be followed as per buyer requirement.
TROUSER SEWING QUALITY – SOP

Flow Chart 29: Trouser Sewing Quality Workflow


2.9 WAREHOUSE
A ware house is the storage area for the finished goods.
TOTAL CAPACITY OF WAREHOUSE
 Total no. of workers - 18
 Total capacity of jackets – 62720
 Total capacity of trousers – not fixed, trousers entered warehouse packed in cartons, and
were kept in a specific area, no specific place was made available for it.
 Machine used – Bar Code Scanner.
 Total No. Of Racks - 23

WAREHOUSE DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE

warehouse
Incharge

assistant
warehouse
incharge

supervisor team leader

Flow Chart 30: Warehouse Organizational Structure

CHECKLIST FOR PACKAGING


 Sleeve Label
 Joker Tag
 Hang Tag
 Hanger
 Size Ring
 Poly Bag Stickers
Audit cannot be offered unless the whole lot is completed .Audit is carried out both externally
and internally, though all buyers expect EXPRESS allow internal audit, whereas for EXPRESS,
Lee & Fung offers audit service. In case of late shipment, air shipping of order is conducted, else
all orders are exported through ship.
Process Flow
The process followed in the finished goods warehouse is as follows:-

Scan the incoming gmts

Issue of location plan

Store as per location plan/highlight qty and PO on board

Issuing order note from merchandiser to W/H in charge

W/H incharge to prepare pkg list in excel

Issuing it for quality and ware house

Quality audit

Container inspection and taking the pictures of empty container

Manual counting of gmts by security personnel

Loading of gmts into the container

Taking image of loaded container and sealing

Dispatch

Flow Chart 31: Warehouse Process Flow


2.10 QUALITY ASSURANCE

Quality Assurance department has its presence in every stage of the production. The Quality
Assurance Department‘s function starts with receipt of the fabric that is, once the fabric and
trims reaches the stores the quality of the fabric and trims are checked. The operation continues
throughout the cutting and sewing processes. After each section the quality checks are done and
in the finishing department a detailed quality check is done and is sent for alteration in case of
any defects, finally approve the trousers and jackets for packing.

ORGANIZATION CHART

Sr. Manager Quality Assurance


B.K. SHARMA

Fabric & Trims Store


Dushmanth

Cutting
Mubharak

Jacket Sewing
R. K. Das

Trouser Sewing
Debsopan

Jacket Finishing
Nikhil/Deodutt

Trouser Finishing
Ram
Flow Chart 32: Quality Organizational Chart

OBJECTIVES OF QUALITY DEPARTMENT

 The objective of quality department is impart quality in the product.


 To ensure that the product has achieved the quality parameters of buyers.
 To restrict the defects entering into the final product.
FOR JACKETS THE QUALITY CHECK POINTS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
 Panels Quality Check after cutting
 Section wise checking is done keeping in mind various quality check points. Sections are
: Front and Back Section , Lining Section , End Line.

RANDOM MEASUREMENT DONE AT THREE POINTS:


 Front and Back Section
 End Line
 After finishing auditor checking is done (At warehouse level, internal audit) .

FOR TROUSER THE FOLLOWING ARE THE QUALITY CHECK POINTS:

 Panels Quality Check after cutting


 Inline Checking
 Random Measurement is done at
o Inline
o End Line
After finishing auditor checking is done (At warehouse level internal audit is done).

QC IN STORES

RAW MATERIAL INSPECTION

Quality in store

Checking of product against approved fabric, fabric trims


and trims

Checking fabric for 12 parameters and generation of 12


parameter report

Report sent to CAD department

Flow Chart 33: Raw Material Inspection Flow


2.10.1 QUALITY IN CUTTING

Quality in cutting department

Checking of cut parts

Checking of fabric lay and count no of plies as per marker


layout

Check marker for all parts

Flow Chart 34: Quality in Cutting

2.10.2 QUALITY IN FUSING

Quality in fusing

To check sorting

To check correct pairing for sewing

Flow Chart 35: Quality in Fusing

2.10.3 QUALITY IN SEWING

Quality in sewing

100% inline inspection

End line 100% inspection

Pieces sent to finishing

Flow Chart 36: Quality in Sewing


2.10.4 QUALITY IN FINISHING

Quality in finishing

Checking of pieces for pressing,packing and button


placement

Checking of carton marking and packing method

Flow Chart 37: Quality in Finishing

QUALITY PARAMETERS TO BE FOLLOWED AT FINAL CHECKING


JACKET FRONT

1. No wrinkle and leaping at the top collar.


2. Sharpness at the george.
3. Canvas settlement to be checked and looseness is to be avoided.
4. Flower hole is to be neatly stitched.
5. Breast pocket should be neat and clean giving a very good look.
6. Darts are to be stitched neatly.
7. Proper fitting of sleeves required avoiding the twisting. The sleeves should cover two
third of the welt pockets.
8. The sleeve fall should be proper.
9. The welt pocket flaps should match with the body to give a descent look.
10. The welt pockets should be checked for any defect at the bar tack position.
11. The pockets are to be checked for any puckering.
12. The bottom hem should be neat and pucker free.
13. Front cut should be well-shaped.
14. The lining fullness and hand stitch quality should be checked at the cuff.
15. Buttons should be properly placed without damage.
16. Button hole placement should be perfect with neat stitch.
17. Lapel balance and notch tip balance as well symmetry is a must.
18. The lapel break line should be neat with proper fullness.
19. Over lapping is required at the back seat to prevent the centre back lining seam from any
kind of view.
20. Armhole at seam should be neat and clean, and checked for any dimples.
JACKET BACK:

1. Collar at the back should be checked for balance, matching and setting.
2. The shoulder should be checked for puckering and looseness.
3. There should not be any wrinkle at the under arm.
4. Sleeve elbow stitch and in seam are to be checked for proper fullness.
5. Button stitch and placement is to be checked.
6. Balance and fullness is to be checked in the vent(s).
7. Good shape and silhouette is required at the hip area in the back.
8. Bottom hem line should be beautiful and pucker less.
9. Back side seam should be checked for puckering.
10. The centre back line is to be checked for puckering.

JACKET INSIDE:

1. Neck band should be checked for fullness.


2. Sleeve attach tacking should be neat.
3. Sleeve back tacking should be neat.
4. Sleeve back blind stitch should be neat and clean.
5. The inside pockets should be checked for proper bar tack and welt width.
6. Facing and lining join should be proper and pucker free.
7. Front edge should be neat and clean.
8. Facing should be properly placed.
9. Bottom hem should be perfect without any puckering.
2.11 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING (IE)

PROCESS FLOW OF WORKING OF THE IE DEPARTMENT

Calculate SAM of garment freshly ordered to calculate different consumptions

Work measurement of a new confirmed order

To advice production department on garment SAM and

Maintains Daily Production Report

To calculate line efficiency

To calculate operators efficiency

Grade change

Time and method study

Line balancing

Check for work aid and compliances

Preparation of incentive scheme

Flow Chart 38: IE Process Flow


ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE OF IE DEPARTMENT

Mr.Raghvendra
Kulkarni
IE HEAD

CUTTING SEWING

Ms.Priyanshi
Jacket Trouser
Singh

Mr.Shrawan Mr.Prashant Ms.Diksha


Mr.Zubair
Kumar Kumar Pandey

Flow Chart 39: IE Organizational Structure


WORK OF IE DURING ORDER PROCUREMENT

On order procurement,
IED calculates the thread
consumption & trim
consumption.

On order
confirmation,IED
prepares Operation
Bulletin

On the basis of Operation


Bulletin , works on SAM
and plans line on 75%
efficiency.

Allots total no. of


operators

Sends requirement of
operators , machines &
folders to PPC .

Requirement of
machines,folders &
guides sent to
Maintenance dept.

Line layout prepared in a


unidirectional flow.

Flow Chart 40: Responsibilities of IE

SKILL MATRIX UPDATION & DAILY PRODUCTION REPORT


 Besides, the IED maintains the skill inventory which is updated every month.
 IED also keeps a track on the hourly production and maintains the daily WIP report and daily
production report which is sent to the PPC department.
 Apart from this the IED also takes care of the work methods that are being used on the floor.
 Besides, the IED also plans and balances the line on a daily basis keeping the absenteeism
and other factors in consideration.

THE DIFFERENT FUNCTION OF THE IED ARE AS FOLLOWS:


 Calculation of cost : The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the
productivity of the given style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the
accessories consumption by the style and gives all these details to the merchandising
department for the costing purpose because the entire costing criteria depends on these
aspects and the IED also gives the merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the
cost of manufacturing the garment by modifying any of the steps and the method of doing
it.
 Style Bulletin: The IED people using the (GSD) General Sewing Data prepare the style
bulletin which includes the different types of seams and stitches that has to be done for
the garment and it also includes the length of the seams and the types of stitches that has
to be carried out at different places of the garment as per the buyers specifications and
approval.
 Types of thread (TEX), area of placement of the trims and accessories and its location
different kinds of labels that are supposed to be placed, the criteria under which the
finished garment has to be checked, the times at which the inspection has to be carried
out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin will be similar to the Tech
Pack but contains more technical data than that.
This department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they
update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of the
garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date, average
efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was working that day
or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it, information about the batch
setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be mentioned in this DPR.
2.12 IT & MIS DEPARTMENT
The company has a fully functional IT department which takes care of the MIS and the ERP of
the company. The IT department is responsible for documenting all the transactions taking place
in the company.
There are two software “Stage” and “Proman” that are being used for the purpose. Stage is
Inventory Management software while ―Proman takes care of all the production related
activities. Once the order is confirmed, a new account is added in the software which generates
the work order no. And after the Work Order number has been generated all the information
related to that order can be traced using that number.
The IT department has data entry operators who regularly enter the information into the
software.

THE MAIN FUNCTION OF IT DEPARTMENT ARE:


 Dealing with MIS
 Maintenance of all hardware like computers, scanners, printers, Xerox machine, and
fax machines etc.
 Dealing with ERP

Raymond also has their own intranet which connects all the computers in that network. All the
data is stored in their database called ITPC and for mailing purposes employees were using
Office Outlook.
2.13 TRAINING DEPARTMENT
Unit have their own training department named as RTI (Raymond Training Institute.) This
department falls under the HR section. The RTI is a new initiative of Raymond unit. Through
this they try to improve the skills of operators without hampering the output of the factory. In
Raymond they train the employees in such a way that they achieve the desired output.

Figure 23: Training Section


THERE WERE VARIOUS STAGES OF THE RTI SESSION, THEY ARE AS
FOLLOWS:
STAGE I
At this stage, the newly joined operators are first trained with minimum language skills like the
basis English alphabets and numbers. They are also taught Basic English sentences like saying
their name, what work they are doing, how much they have made and how much they will make.
In this they are also teach the hygiene and safety issues.

STAGE II
In the second stage the operators perform paper exercises. In this they are provided papers with
different patterns made on it. The operators have to stitch as per the patterns on the paper. This is
done in order to improve the operator’s control on the machine. These paper exercises are
evaluated by the training in- charge and based on the performance operators were given
promotions.
STAGE III
In this stage the operators stitch on fabric. Different patterns are made on the fabric and operators
have to stitch accordingly. If the in- charge finds that any operator is well skilled then they are
forwarded to the next stage.
STAGE IV
In this stage, operators are taught to handle different types of fabrics and also different types of
special and automatic machines. In this stage the trainees are also made to observe the operators
working in the line.
STAGE V
In this stage, operators are on job training on any critical operation based on requirement like Zig
Zag, blind hem, sleeve attach, bar tack, differential feed, basting etc.
PRE-RECRUITMENT TESTS
Before recruiting operators, they came across by some of the tests like:
 Colour
 Blindness test
 Hand Movement test
 Written Test
 To check the ability of the Hand and Arm movements, two hands co-ordination test is
done.

Figure 24: two hand coordination


The paper exercise on which the trainee stitch on the papers to learn the straight stitch, curve
stitch, and corner stitches.

Figure 25: paper exercise

Figure 26: fabric exercise


 After learning the paper stitch, fabric exercise starts and in which trainee learn to stitch
on the fabric for the same.
 After completion of paper and fabric exercise, trainees construct the uniform of different
colour. Actually these uniforms are colour coding for the different departments.

Figure 27: Uniform Colour Code


2.14 HR / ADMIN
HR Department can be termed as the mother of any organization. It takes care of all the
employee related activities, that is the recruitment, selection, induction, training, remunerations,
provident fund, gratuity, ESI and so on the administration department takes care of the
transportation, guest accommodation and other industrial relation activities like dealing with the
labour department, pollution control board, local jurisdiction, municipal works etc.
Recruitment is done by aptitude tests. It is done in the local language. While the employees are
recruited in they are to produce the documents regarding the age proof, PF nomination, gratuity
nomination, ESI nomination and employable certificate. The induction and the training are given
to every recruited employee on the tailoring machines. They’re also certain task force training
also given for the members of the task force.
The administrative block of Raymond ltd is situated after the finishing floor and next to the
warehouse.
It has an IT server room, a conference room and various cabins for the higher official’s purposes
of the factory. The Wi-Fi of the unit was maintained from this block. The administrative block
also had a pantry in it with all food and wash-room facilities. The block was enthralling to eye as
it had to welcome the buyers for the factory. It is a very well maintained and easily accessible to
all. Even an operator can approach anybody in the administration without any problem. This
makes the operators feel like a family and they do not feel discarded.
ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE:

HR
Manager

Manager Officer
HR Admin

Office
Office HR &
Officer T&D Receptionist Assistant
Welfare

Hr Creche Health Care


Assistants Care Taker Provider

Flow Chart 41: HR Organizational Structure


2.15 MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

The department is responsible for all the maintenance activities in the organization. This
department does all sorts of maintenance, the machine maintenance, utility equipment
maintenance, and other maintenance in the lines.

WORK DONE BY MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT:


 Servicing of machine
 Building maintenance
 Oil change
 Replacement of defective parts
 Servicing of Motor

PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE:
Preventive maintenance is a schedule of planned maintenance actions aimed at the prevention of
breakdowns and failures. The primary goal of preventive maintenance is to prevent the failure of
equipment before it actually occurs. It is designed to preserve and enhance equipment reliability
by replacing worn components before they actually fail.

LONG-TERM BENEFITS OF PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE INCLUDE:


 Improved system reliability.
 Decreased cost of replacement.
 Decreased system downtime.
 Better spares inventory management.

ORGANIZATIONAL CHART

Maintenance
Head

Store In Floor
Charge Incharge

Operators Technicians

Flow Chart 42: Maintenance Organizational Chart


CHAPTER – 3
PLANT LAYOUT
1. BUILDING SHED
The dimensions of the building shed are 250m X 63m X 8.8m.
The whole of shop floor is divided in three equal bays of 21 m each and the apart from
the two side ends, pillars support the structure and are placed at the meeting point of two
adjacent bays. These pillars are spaced at 8.04 in length.
THE AREA DETAILS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
Table 25: Floor Area

PLOT AREA 9ACRES

BUILT UP AREA 209953.75 sq. feet

SHOP FLOOR 15750 sq. M

FABRIC STORE 17100 sq. feet

TRIMS STORE 7000 sq. feet

CUTTING 23100 sq. feet

JACKET SEWING 46250 sq. feet

TROUSER SEWING 23490 sq. feet

JACKET FINISHING 13260 sq. feet

TROUSER FINISHING 6032 sq. feet

WAREHOUSE 16613 sq. feet

TRAINING CENTRE 2040 sq. feet

HR 1000 sq. feet

CANTEEN 13225 sq. feet

LOCKER ROOM 2160 sq. feet

HEALTH CENTRE 2025 sq. feet

BOILER ROOM 5600 sq. feet

ELECTRIC ROOM 4200 sq. feet


2. MANPOWER
Table 26: Manpower

S. No. Department Manpower Capacity Executive

1. Sampling 18 N/A MR. Vikas Kumar

2. Fabric & Trim Store 46 77000mts Ms.Madiha Farheen

3. Cutting 192 7100 pcs Mr.Mallika

4. Sewing 1016 7000 pcs Line executives for each


line
5. Finishing 200 7100 pcs Mr. Deepak Kumar

6. Warehouse 18 67520 Mr.Abhishek Kumar

7. Maintenance 12 N/A Mr. Raghvendra


Kulkarni

8. IT & MIS 3 N/A Mr. Murugesh

9. HR & Admin 6 N/A Ms.Nethravathi

10. Training 18 N/A Ms.Nethravathi

11. I.E 6 N/A Mr.Raghvendra Kulkarni

12. Quality 135 As per production Mr. B.K. Sharma

13. Merchandising 4 N/A Mr. Giridhar Rao


3. MACHINE

Table 27: Machine Details

MACHINE DETAILS
No.
No.of
S.No. TYPE MAKE/MODEL of S.No. TYPE MAKE /MODEL
M/C
M/C
SEWING DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
1 PFAFF-1483 144 37 Flatbed basting PFAFF - 1243 9
HIGH LEAD
38 Auto Dart 3
2 SNLS( drop feed) With GK00-58 4 PFAFF- 3519
UBT DURKOPP
HIGH LEAD 39 Auto Facing ADLER 271-992- 6
3 GC188MD 12 001
DURKOPP
40 Auto Welting ADLER 745 14
4 SNLS( needle feed) PFAFF-1481 40 PREMIUM
With UBT DURKOP
ADLER 220-5300 41 Auto Serging DURKOP ADLER 4
5 NR 12 1465-4
DURKOPP
SNLS( differential
ADLER 275-140- 42 4
feed) With UBT
6 342 44 MAIER D-73253
DURKOPP
ADLER 697-151- 43 Blind Hem MAIER-251-12- 3
7 55 15 46-D
DURKOPP
SNLS( unison feed)
ADLER 697-241- 44 1
With UBT
8 55 3 STROBEL
DURKOPP
ADLER 550-16- 45 6
9 26 15 WEISHI AZT-B46
10 PFAFF-3822 9 46 WEISHI AZT-C10 3
SNLS EDGE DURKOPP
CUTTER BUCK
ADLER 272-740- 47 WEISHI AZT- 18
11 642 3 C26A
SNLS FLAP Making JUKI- DDL-8700-
48 22
12 with LOIVA MJ-3400 7 4 WEISHI AZT-O18
13 NIKATA 4 49 WEISHI AZT-C36 18
DNLS Ordinary BUCK BOTTOM
50 3
14 TYPICAL 4 PRESS MACPI -362.00
BUCK FLAP
51 TURNING & 2
15 PFAFF-2438 3 PRESSING M/C MACPI-144.00
BUCK SHOULDER
52 3
16 PFAFF-3704 2 PAD FUSING M/C WEISHI AZT-F65
ZIGZAG WEISHI YTP-
53 22
17 PFAFF-918 3 W28
FIT
WEISHI YTP-
54 31
18 PFAFF-937 3 W28B
FIT SHAPED WEISHI YTP-
55 20
19 PFAFF-983 3 IRONING TABLE W20
20 SNCS PFAFF-3801 6 56 FUSING MACHINE WEISHI NHJ-Q-B 2
PFAFF-3801(with
57 ZIP CUTTER 1
21 tape feed) 3 YKK-E-78000
SLIDER &
58 STOPPER YKK 4
22 DNCS TYPICAL 4 attachment
HIGH LEAD FLAT BED FUSING
59 KANNEGIESSAR 1
23 GK00-58-3 8 MACHINE
24 3TH. O/L TOYOTA EK1-3 1 CUTTING DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
TYPICAL -GN-
4TH. O/L Ordinary 1 STRAIGHT KNIFE EASTMAN 2
25 2000-4 1
26 5TH. O/L JUKI MO-6716S 35 2 BAND KNIFE WASTEMA 6
KANSAI
Flat Lock SPECIAL-B- 3 ROUND KNIFE EASTMAN 10
27 2000C 1
DURKOPP
ADLER 510 4 GERBER 4
28 Bartack PREMIUM 22 CAM
BROTHER BF-
5 MORGAN 1
29 438D 1
30 Button sew C/S PFAFF-3307 3 FUSING -- DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
BROTHER BE- FLAT CONT.
1 KANNEGIESSER 7
31 438C 1 FUSING
Button sew L/S DURKOPP
ADLER 530 FINISHING - - DEPARTMENT - M/C DETAILS
32 PREMIUM 9
DURKOPP
ADLER 580 1 VACCUM TABLE WEISHI 26
33 Button hole PREMIUM 10
AMF REECE-S- STAIN REMOVING
2 MACPI 10
34 4000 2 W/S
35 Button wrapping LOIVA ST-10 8 3 BUCK WEISHI 55
HENGTAI GL- DUSTING
Pick stitch 4 RAMSON 3
36 798A 15 MACHINE
Bibliography

Information collected through Industry Observation


Silver Spark Apparel Ltd. official website
Industry Reports in Library at Silver Spark Apparel Ltd.
Catalogues of Silver Spark
Web Journal- onlineclothing.com
Gerber GTXL Cutter User Manual