una

august 2010
Dear Reader,
The Westfjords are known for sheer sea cliffs, long narrow fjords, magnifi-
cent ocean views and majestic mountains. If you want to experience the
unique atmosphere of unspoiled, wild nature and traditional fishing villages,
this is the right place for you.
In this magazine you can see the Westfjords in pictures and descriptions,
coloured by the individual feelings and experiences of 23 young people from
all around the world. For two weeks we have explored the nature, towns,
people and history of this region. We tried to find an answer to one ques-
tion – how do people survive in a place which is so far from civilization as we
know it and where it is dark almost half of the year?
We spent a lot of time on the road, trying to absorb as much adventure as we
could. We were bathing in the hot tops by the sea shore, hiking up the moun-
tains, watching puffins on the cliffs, kayaking in the fjords, visiting many
swimming pools, and last, but not least, getting know the locals. We talked
a lot. To fishermen, musicians, cooks, waitresses, priests, directors of univer-
sities, children. And everyone we met, was so open, friendly and willing to
share his or her little story.
And now we would like to share it with you.
We know that it is not possible to put all the power and beauty of nature,the
kindness of people, the peace, harmony, legends and stories we have dis-
covered in the West fjords in these few pages.
But we hope, that the work we have done, will help you connect with even a
small part of this magic place.
pictures from flateyri
everybody come to swim!
Iceland, a land of endless natural resources and water is certainly
one of them. Icelandic people have managed to make the best
use of this unlimited resource by building swimming pools all
around the country. In fact, almost every village, even the tiniest
ones, has their own swimming pool.
Visitors to swimming pools can enjoy warm water, either natu-
ral or heated, always ranging from 25C to 30C in the swimming
pools and up to 45C in the relaxing hot tubs. The water is heated
thanks to the abundance of cheap geothermal power.
In a country surrounded by slightly freezing cold water, swim-
ming pools play an important social role in Icelandic culture:
school children learn how to swim (all Icelanders must be able to
swim) and play in their free time; adults do aerobics and all kinds
of water sports; parties are held in swimming pools and above
all hot tubs are a meeting point for people who gather and talk
about all types of subjects, from politics to gossip. Fishermen
relax themselves in the hot tubs after work; they talk about their
daily catch enjoying the coffee served next to the bubbling wa-
ter.
Warning to all visitors: having a shower without swimsuit
before getting into the water is compulsory due to hygienic rea-
sons and in compliance with the Icelandic health policy. Do not
forget!
During our 2-week work camp in the Western Fiords, we spent 10
days in Flateyri, a 300-inhabitant village surrounded by a beau-
tiful and atmospheric landscape. Flateyri offers visitors the op-
portunity to do various activities, among which kayaking in the
fiords (from April to September, contact www.kajaktravel.net, email ka-
jak@simnet.it), trekking along its amazing trails, spending time in
the lively bar and the possibility to relax in the village swimming
pool and hot tubs.
The swimming pool is located in a modern sports centre,
equipped with a gym, a sauna and a hot tub. The staff consists of
1 person in winter and 2 people in the summer, when there are
more tourists attending the swimming pool and the facility is
open every day (in winter it is open only 4 days a week).
We interviewed one staff member, Smari Snaer Eiriksson, 22
years old, from Flateyri, who is going to start university in Reyk-
javik in September and works in the swimming pool as a summer
job. In the swimming pool, he is in charge of selling entrance tick-
ets, cleaning and works as a life guard. In order to be a lifeguard,
he has to renew his lifeguard license every year.
This public swimming pool is attended by
few local people (only 10 local people out
of 300 go every day) in winter and Icelan-
dic tourists and World Wide Friend volun-
teers in the summer.

Smari said that people’s habits have been

changing over the years. More people
used to go to the swimming pool before
the terrible avalanche that hit the village
in 1995. 200 people left the village after
the tragedy and the current population
amounts to 300. According to Smari peo-
ple do not go to the swimming pool main-
ly because they are lazy, but also because
the entrance fee is more expensive than in
other places.

If you want to go the swimming

pool, these are the prices:

• Entrance fee 440 kr

• Children from 0-15 years free entrance!
• 10 tickets 3,390 kr
• 30 tickets 8,290 kr

Smari looks forwards

to seeing you!
During our excursions, we have had the
possibility to enjoy a pleasant relaxation
in a swimming pool. Thanks to this expe-
rience, we met Icelandic people to whom
we asked for some information abou
swimming pool organization.
We went to the Isafjordur’s public swim-
ming pool. While I swam I have met two
children who played in the water. I have
observed Icelandic people are nice and
children, in particular, like meeting people
of different cultures.
I started play with the 2 children and, after
shyness moment, I asked them for some
information.
Me: My name is Giuseppe. Nice to meet
you. What’s your name?
---: My name is Petr
---: My name is Kristof. Nice to meet you
too.
Giuseppe: How old are you?
Kristof: I am 10 years old.
Giuseppe: Do you like going to the swim-
ming pool?
Kristof: Yes, a lot. During summer, I usu-
ally go to the swimming pool every day
but in the winter, as I go to school, I go
only in the weekend.
Giuseppe: How many pools have gener-
ally an Icelandic swimming pool?
Kristof: Icelandic swimming pools often
have more than one pool, such as an
outdoor heated pool with a hot water.
There may also be a sauna and spa pools
(“jacuzzis”).
Giuseppe: Very well…Do you like playing
with a ball or swimming with a life
buoy?
Kristof:I like playing with Petr. It’s so
amazing. And what about you?
Giuseppe: In my country, we go to the
swimming pool only to learn how to
swim. So play in the swimming pool is for-
bidden! Here I like taking
pleasure in warm water with my new in-
ternational friends and playing withn you.
Kristof: Thank you. I like playing with
you. Where are you from?
Giuseppe: I’m from Italy. Do you know Italy? Have you ever watched a tele- me this?
vision program about my Country?
Kristof: I ask you about your metal jewels because our swimming pools
Kristof: No, I haven’t but my parents know Italy. are rich of minerals that can ruin metals.

Giuseppe: Why there isn’t chlorine smell in your swimming pools? Giuseppe: This is an important and useful information. Thank you

Kristof: Chlorine? What is the chlorine? Kristof: You are Welcome! I like talking with you

Giuseppe: Chlorine is a chemical disinfectant used to maintain the water Giuseppe: Kristof, would you take a photo with me? I will write a feature
clean! story and I’d like putting also a photo of us!

Kristof: ok… There is no chlorine smell in our swimming pool because we Kristof: Of course
donot put it in water. For this reason, you are compelled to take a shower
without swimming suit before entering in the pool
After having taken a photo, we carry on playing
Giuseppe: Ok I have taken a shower
with Francesco, Nerea, Elena and Emy.
Kristof: Have you removed your metal jewels such as necklaces and brace-
lets?

Giuseppe: I do not wear metal jewels, only a wood bracelet. Why do you ask
First step in Iceland
Iceland is a place apart from the rest of the world, standing alone in the To help them in their first step in Iceland,
there is the Multicultural and Information
Atlantic and Arctic oceans, with its own culture, its own way of life, its own Centre. This initiative came originally from
an interest group on cultural diversity in
language and its own freedom. For the last five years, the percentage of immi- the Westfjords. Funded by the Ministry of
Social Affairs in 2001, the centre is locat-
gration has significantly increased. Today, more than 7% of the population ed in Isafjordur but offer services for the
whole country.
in Iceland comes from other countries, mostly from Poland, Germany, Serbia,
At the beginning, there was only one em-
Spain, Russia, Denmark and Latvia. They are young (between 20 and 30 ployee but in just few years, the team has
grown up to four employees. Their main
years old) and usually move to work in the Building and Fishing industry, or goal is quite simple but very useful: giving
assistance over the phone and online in 5
also the cleaning services in hostels, hospitals, etc. When you travel in Iceland languages (English, Polish, Thai and Ser-
bian/Croatian).
for a couple of week, all these specificities that make Iceland such a unique
In other words, they try to facilitate com-
country make you feel lost, so you can easily imagine how immigrants are munication between Icelanders and for-
eign citizens and to enhance the services
feeling when they arrive on this unique island … provided to newcomers living in Iceland.
They also provide specific services to the newcomers, from
translation (when visiting a medical doctor or during parent and
The Multicultural and Information Centre
teacher interviews in schools) to help in administration, including
courses in Icelandic, etc.
is definitely one of the keys of your
Ari Klaengur Jonsson, Project Manager of Information, works on
integration in Iceland !
the website which is mainly dedicated to give information about
the way Icelandic people live. “When you arrive here, the main
problem is not really about prejudices, because the Icelandic peo-
ple are open minded. It’s more about communication and different
problems of usual life. For example, find a house in a town like Isaf-
jordur, it can be difficult if you don’t know anyone.”

One of the other priorities of the Multicultural and Informa-

tion Centre is the teaching of Icelandic. You can find information
about courses on the website. They also sell a leaflet on school
rules intended for children who are starting school and don’t yet
know how to read or write in Icelandic. “Of course speaking Eng-
lish is enough to live here but I think that you really have to learn
Icelandic to feel integrated, not just to communicate but to under-
stand the culture.”

So if you plan to move in to the Westfjords, don’t worry and

don´t hesitate, you know now that there is a place where you can
find help, information and support.

The Multicultural and Information Centre

is definitely one of the keys of your
integration in Iceland !
Face to face
 Here, you know that the road passes through the mountains
just for you, and makes a space in the wilderness, like a thief.
At the airport, the night is still young, the light is just beginning to go to
sleep and I arrive in Iceland in silence. I walk the streets of Reykjavik slowly, I
don’t really know where I am going or how the next two weeks will turn out.
We will be twenty four people from different countries, all together in the
West fjords to participate in a photography and journalism workcamp. The
meeting point is scheduled, there is a place in the world, a little point on the
map that is waiting for us. After the first presentations, the fear has gone
and we are all ready to start this adventure.
Our first stop : Drangsnes. Everyone´s first words are: “The end of the
world”. The West Fjords, this part of Iceland where the tourists never used
to come, has begun to seduce us. The light of the house on the cliff goes on
and off alone in this infinity. At the harbour, a boat full of fishes arrives, the
fishermen watch the scene from the hotspots on the beach, while they take
a beer and talk about their journey. Like a child in a circus, I take a seat with
them and my white body becomes red like a lobster´s. The night takes her
time to come, we talk about the future in Iceland. A young man with sad
eyes, Artur , asks me where I come from and when I answer Quebec, Canada,
I see the dreams and loneliness at the same time in his eyes.
He just says : “ Me too I want to travel again but you know how is life some-
times…” He doesn’t have to finish this sentence, we both know the end.
The next day we finally arrive at our new home, Flateyri. The sunset is won-
derful, the sky is high and the mountains are orange. I walk in this beauty
and wish to reach the top of the mountains just behind the village. The wind
is strong, my body fights to stand up. Far away, near the coast, at the other
side of the fjord, sheep enjoy the last hours of light, the bar will be open to-
night, our neighbour has just finished cleaning his garden. Even on this naked
ground, life grows. Behind Flateyri, the memories of the 1995 avalanche is
hidden behind the protection wall. In the cemetery, one candle is still alight.
Here, you know that the road passes through the mountains just for you, and
makes a space in the wilderness, like a thief.
Alone with my country and my memories, I turn the music up loud in my
headphones and sing words so precious to me. But they mean nothing to
the people here. Since arriving in Iceland, I realize the power of this beauty
that I have never seen before in my life. You know that you are lucky to be
alive and to be a guest in this universe that doesn´t need us to survive. This is
the kind of beauty that you don’t see in towns where the light never sleeps,
where the sky is too small. Sometimes you cannot capture this moment or
landscape in your camera, you have to keep this wild image in you.
I thought that I was used
to loneliness, that I know
This is the kind of beauty that you don’t see in towns
her name and her daily
moods. Everyday of my
where the light never sleeps, where the sky is too small
life I have tried to tame her but Iceland taught me that real loneliness is not
a luxury that you choose, it seeps into the first years of childhood, when you
learn how to play football alone with the sound of the sea. It comes when
you wait for the end of the winter to return to the coffee shop, when you fall
in love with a traveler who will never come back after this summer. Here the
loneliness comes with the majesty of the landscapes, it’s the price one pays
to be part of all this purety. It is a unique language that you cannot speak
anywhere else in the world.
She accepts the Catholic religion provided that the priest can be married.
At Thingeyri, I will remember Hildur Inga Rúnarsdóttir, a 31 year old priest,
so open minded. At the crucial question of life after death she simply an-
swered “ I don’t know what is waiting for us after death, I never go there.”
No final answer, just an inde-
pendent mind, for a free Ice-
land. In this village I will also
remember Janne Kristensen
who has just opened the Sim-
bahöllin Café with her boyfriend, Wouter Van Hoeymissen.
About the impact of the café in Thingeyri, she answered : “ You know it’s hard
to change the habits of people here. Most of our customers are tourists or come
from other villages in Iceland. The locals are proud of this place, they come
once or twice in the year to show it to their family, but they don´t come often.
If they were comfortable reading the newspaper with a latte each morning in a
café, they wouldn´t choose to live here you know.”

Loneliness is not only a So loneliness is also a way

bad thing that preoccu- Here the loneliness comes with the majesty of the landscapes, of live here, and you have
pies you, it’s also a kind to be careful to not disturb
of pride, something that it’s the price one pays to be part of all this purety it. It’s a part of the Icelandic
you feel strong inside culture and wealth.
your heart and comes
with you no matter how far you travel. Iceland is a strange planet, indepen- This workcamp is almost finished and I will remember all of the volunteers
dent and free. This freedom is everywhere. Iceland stands by herself in the who left their lives behind for these two weeks to discover this unique and
ocean, face to face with the polar circle. She doesn´t ask for anything. She lonely Iceland. We all return to our countries with so many pictures in our
doesn´t wait for anybody. She chooses a lesbian president while the United hearts and on our cameras, hopeful words etched in our memories and I
States asks if they are ready to vote for a black man. think that we will be less lonely than before…
In Summer, days are so long that
it could be always afternoon.
Bright sky, clear clouds, light everywhere.
Take a look to these pics
and try to discover what time is it!

How long is a day in Iceland?

Mysterious Iceland
Although Icelandic history is short it has lots of traditions inher-
ited from its Scandinavian origins that evolved into a rich and
varied popular culture full of myths, legends and beliefs. Many
stories of this kind can be found all along the Icelandic territory,
it is in the area of the West Fjörds where some of the most repre-
sentatives had been cradled.
Nowadays, Westerns inhabitants declare not to believe in what
they call “bed time stories”. Nevertheless, deepening in the ori-
gins of their folklore, it is possible to realize that Icelandic popu-
lation hasn’t lost for good their beliefs.
Sagas
Sagas are the masterpieces in Icelandic literature. “Saga” means,
literally “What was seen in ancient times” and are based in the
events happened in Iceland during the 250 years after following
the settlement of the Island (XII-XIII centuries). All of them ap-
proach epic stories such as fights, love stories or family dramas.
And although many of these stories seem to have historical ori-
gins, the oral tradition has given a major number of magical ele-
ments to the action: legendary characters who live together with
mythological creatures, long trips to unknown lands, etc.
The West Fjörds are an important literary reference in the Sagas,
especially Gísli Súrsson Saga. This Saga tells the story of the first
woman that settled in the lands of what is now Bolungarvik: Purí-
dur Sundafyllir.
Purídur, originally from Denmark/Norway, had the special ability
of attracting fish to the nets of the fishermen. (?) The legend tells
that after a big argument with her brother Pjodolfur because of
land, the powerful woman cornered him at the top of a cliff, forc-
ing him to hide jumping down. He landed in a rock in the middle
of the sea. Tradition says that the rock was inhabited by hidden
people who sheltered Pjodolfur for several days. Since then, no-
body ever heard about him and that’s why Bolungarvik inhabit-
ants thought that he was bewitched.
Witchcraft and sorcery
The most talented sorcerers lived in the West Fjörds and most
notably in the coast of Strandir. Many texts gather all kinds of
spells that witches used for getting everything that they wanted:
sickness, love, money and even food.
In the XVIIth century Strandir was the epicenter of a widespread
witch hunt. Pointing a finger at the neighbor was enough to get
him killed. To be cleared of any wrong do-
ing, the condemned (most of them were
men, opposite to continental Europe) had
to find 12 peers who could testify to his in-
nocence (quiet difficult in a sparcely popu-
lated region). If unsuccessful, the witch
was burn to death on a pile of wood usu-
ally built from the prisoner’s disassembled
house.
Also the accuser was given the death
man’s property as compensation, allow-
ing that many families as the legendary
sheriff Magnús Magnússon’s became very
wealthy because of these procedures.
Then, he had to steal a coin from a poor
widow on one of the major church holi-
days and put it in the scrotum. As long as
the coin was in it, the necropants’ owner
would magically come into possession of
money.
Nature spirits
Iceland is also known for being influenced
also by some of the old german traditional
myths. There are many places where small
people are believed to be living in. It is
also said that those magical beings help or
damn everyone who is their own ways.

We can find the origins of many of these

Every garden, roof or cave is it able to be
tales in the Witchcraft and Sorcery Muse-
a proper place to find that kind of noise-
um in Holmavik. There can be found many
less beings. For instance, it is believed that
objects related to those prohibited arts.
near Isafjödur is easy to find small fairs,
gnoms and guardian angels.
One of the most remarkable examples are
the necropants, a part of a spell for mak-
In addition to this, Icelandic people
ing money. The owner of a pair of necro-
strongly believe in elves. They are de-
pants had to make a contract with a living
scribed as a little human but smaller, and
man allowing you to exhume him and skin
they don’t like to be disturbed.
his lower body. Step into the pants and
they will become permanently stuck on
However, if one were to favor these elves
their owner.
the same person would be bountifully re-
warded, for example in many folklore tell-
ings it is remarked that those that aid elf Popular beliefs,
women in childbitrh have been very fortu-
nate.
myth or reality ?

Westfjords is a place where trolls live as

Jóhanna Kristjándóttir
well or, at least, that is what some people
Inhabitant of Flateyri
beliefs. Icelandic trolls are massive fear-
“We have a lot of stories about that. Not everybody can see. Elves par-
some creatures that reside in caves and
ticularly live in big stones, in flowers in the garden… Maybe you find
caverns of Iceland mountains. Many of
people that claim that they have seen them but not many people really
them cannot bear the sunlight and if sun-
believe in that... And if you move the rocks where hidden people live,
shine were ever to shine on them they
they can take revenge and something bad would happen to you”
would be turned to stone.

As a curiosity, there is a legend which says

Gudný Hildur Magnusdóttir
that the isthmus between Iceland and
Bolungarvik Major´s assistant
Westfjords was created by two trolls fight-
“Yes, there is one. A legend about the first person who moved here
ing with each other.
from Norway in 800-900, Purídur Sundafyllir. It says that she was half
a woman and half a sorceress. She settled in Bolungarvik with her son.
What local people in Wesfjords believe
We don’t have so much information but there are a lot of legends that
about their own legends?
people have told each other about her.”

Here there are some opinions of people

who live in Westfjords about the social
Thelma Hjaltadóttir
feelling to that kind of legends.
Journalist of BB Local Newspaper (Isafjodur)
“I have heard stories about trolls but nothing like that. It´s not a mythol-
ogy that actually people believe in. If you see the mountain, over the
airport, there is like a seat in it and people tell children that there was a
troll over there and nobody believes it no more. It´s like a fairytale.”
TASTE THE VIKING FLAVOUR!
Are you really sure to be brave?
Try to taste typical Icelandic food: for example, delicate mutton’s
testicles in milk’s water (Súrsaðir hrútspungar) or delicious rotten
shark (Hákarl).
Shark meat is very toxic when you catch it. For this reason, you
need to bury it in the ground and wait for six months, or more
before having a smelling snack! After this, to be able to support
the strong taste in your mouth, you absolutely need to take a sip
of freezy Brennevín.
Do you think your stomach wants more or not?
If you aren’t satisfied yet, you could enjoy Slátur, unbelievable
sausage made of lamb liver or blood, water and rug flour, all in
lamb intestine. People say that this is very good for pregnant
women!
When summer finishes, it´s the real The Silence of the Lamb:
sheeps come back from mountains and their meat is so tender,
so appetizing, so perfect, that you could eat every little part of
them…and actually Icelandic people do. Except the brain, every-
thing it’s edible: fried heart with potatoes, kidney, blood, liver
making fantastic sausages (Svið)…heads too.
Yes, heads! Why not?
You can roast them straight on flames and devouring all, in-
cluding yummy eyes and skin. Or you can use the head to do an
amazing jelly (Sviðasulta): just put it in a big pot and cook it for
long, long, long time. If you want to have something special, you
need to be patient. Also for the bread, Icelanders are really pa-
tient: baking their typical bread (Rúgbrauð) takes ten hours. You
can bake it in the oven, but if you are lucky enough to live in the
South, you can also put the ingredients in a can and cook it in a
boiling geyser!
And what about whales?
In a lot of restaurants you can normally find big whale steaks (or
whale sushi) on the menu. Also puffins (Lundi in Icelandic), the
photogenic birds with the orange , are on the menu: it’s quite
common find them smoked, roasted or cooked.
Do you prefer something less adventurous?
Don’t worry! You can choose between lot of kind of soups,
creamy Skyr (similar to yogurt) with blueberry or simply with
sugar and tasty Kleinur, fried twisted donughts. And a huge, im-
pressive quantity of amazing cakes and waffles, with an overdose
of sweet cream and sour rhubarb jam.
But if you are vegetarian, and wonder how to avoid whale,
lamb and puffin meat during your time in Iceland, you will find
everything you need but get ready to pay the price: two thirds of
the vegetables sold in Iceland are imported.
Enjoy your meal, and please, join us
with a glass of Brennevín! Cheers!
WESTFJORDS SOUNDS
If music is the sound of soul, There are two very important vocal per-
formance styles in Iceland, one using the
Iceland has its own. And above all
term kveða and the other syngja. The
parts of this beautiful island, first a performance practice referred to as
kveðskapur or kvæðaskapur. Kveðskapur
Wesffjords peninsula is remarkable.
is also the generic Icelandic term for poet-
ry. The term syngja translates as to sing.
Traditional music exist in all countries and
cultures, but in Iceland the evolution of
The sound of this music is sometimes mel-
that one has been different because of
ancholic, but there are also other songs
its situation away both Europe and North
whose lyrics tell about romantic stories
America.
and, of course, songs about the most
famous legends in Iceland: the Sagas, a
Traditional Icelandic folk music remained
compilation of the pioneers who came to
widely performed into the last decades of
that part of the world mixed with mythol-
the 19th century, when folk collecting be-
ogy and mysticism. As a difference with
gan in the country. However, the advent
other traditional sounds, there are no
of Western classical music and other for-
particular instruments used to play these
eign influences in the same period began
songs. The most used one is achordeon.
leading to a decline in traditional music.
It was very popular at the end of the nine-
Later, the arrival of popular music fur-
teenth century, and now it is becoming
thered this change; some folk music was
again, with piano too.
recorded between the World Wars, but
intense collecting did not begin in earnest
until nowadays.
Icelandic people feel a great love for its own environment and culture, and It is easy to feel the power of music in this wonderful area surrounded by
they try to preserve and develop it in the best way they can do, that is, keep- many fjords and loneliness in the middle of the nature. If you close your eyes
ing alive. Actually, more than 90 per cent of the children in Westfjords are in a windy day and start listening to those beautiful songs you could trans-
in music schools. It is a huge number if it is compared with other European port to a far place, out of time and distance, and you would start to under-
countries. As a matter of fact, the music school of Ísafjörður is the oldest one stand this close but exotic country.
in all the country, established in 1911.
Six popular songs:
One of this example
is Helga Kristbjörg, a “ More than 90 per cent • Oifadir gjör mig litid ljos, composer from Isafjordur Jonas Tomasson
young girl that lives • Thu ert (you are) by Thorarinn Gudmundsson
in Ísafjörður and of the children in Westfjords • Dyravisa- an Icelandic folk song
who works playing • Litla fhugan (the little fly) by Sigfus Halldorsson
traditional songs in are in music schools.” • A sprengisandi by Sigvaldi Kaldalons
Bolungarvik church • Sjomannaralsinn by Sharar Benediktsson
for tourist people that are coming by cruise even more often than ever. She
is an example of how young people care about their own origins and they
promoted to everyone who wants to know them better.
VIKINGS in the West Fjords
Thingeyri, a beautiful village
located in Dýrafjörđur fjord
Thingeyri is part of the Ísafjörđur town municipality that includes
also Hnífsdalur, Flateyri and Suđureyri. The complex is 409 km
away from Reykjavík with a population of approximately 320 in-
habitants.

Exploring the area you will come across the ruins of an ancient Vi-
king settlement, standing by the sea. The village was rebuilt with
the financial help of UNESCO in 2006, on the authentic ancient
position of the buildings; a wooden observation tower rises on
the highest part of the area, while a circular wall, made of stones
and soil, protects the core of the settlement. In the inter-land, 45
minutes walk away from the village, Vikings built a granary.

Sonia Thompson,
the Village-Keeper, The village was rebuilt
has moved to Ice-
land from the USA with the financial help
31 years ago; she
still practices the of unesco in 2006
Vattarsaum, litter-
ally “Needlebinding”, a Viking embroidery art passed on from generation
to generation. Following this particular craft, women netted using needles
made of sheep’s horn in order to create socks and hats, combining also dif-
ferent kinds of gems and glass pearls.
In Thingeyri’s harbor visitors can also admire the biggest Viking boat still
present in Iceland, 24 feet long and made with Estonian wood.
Despite Norwegians forced
the Icelandic population

Every year, during the first Every year, during the first to convert to Christianity “ many communities still
weekend of July, a folk fes- in 1020, many communi-

weekend of July, a folk tival takes place. Several ties still believe in Ásatrú, believe in Ásatrú, the
bands,like the famous Hjal- the ancient Viking religion,

festival takes place. alin Band,come to Thingeyri based on a plurality of Gods, ancient Viking religion ”
to perform. like Thor, God of war, repre-
sented by the hammer.
Troughout the festivity it’s possible to taste a typical Viking soup made of
meat. Among the most famous Viking recipes, it’s also important to mention The main difference between this religion and other confessions lies in the
the “skata”, a traditional fish dish cooked on the 24th of December and the fact that there are no written books or manuscripts and the stories are just
“slaughter”, a soup made of boiled lamb blood mixed with milk. handed on orally from generation to generation.
Its main characteristics are respect for the
nature and braveness in war. According
to Ásatrú, warriors that die in a brave way
will end in Valhalla, a paradise in which an
eternal war takes place, interrupted by cy-
clical beer breaks and festivities.

More information about Viking history

can be found in the Gisla Saga, written by
Snorri Sturluson, a famous Icelandic poet
and politician.

His work tells about the first community

of Vikings, leaded by Gísli Súrssonthat,
who decided to leave Norway and move
to Iceland in 950 A.D.

More information about

Viking history can be
found in the Gisla Saga
never stop exploring
In the fjord there is nothing else and much
more than silence. We are getting ready
for kayaking. Siggi – a tourist guide from
Flateyri – seems to me both quite and ex-
cited. One exciting story about his child-
hood in Iceland I want to share with you.
As a ten year old boy he went for a 10 kilo-
metre walk with his friend along the stony
beach from Flateyri to Suðureyri without
permission of their parents. Coming back
and being very lucky from their excursion
their parents were very angry with them –
“because it was such a stupid and danger-
ous decision to do this hiking”.
The fjord and the table mountains seem
so quite and the light shimmered on them
like diamonds but they imply an immense
danger.
One could not imagine that only one sin-
gle avalanche – like it happened in the
year 1995 - destroyed the half of the vil-
lage in few minutes and brought a big sad-
ness to this picturesque place.
While drinking a beer together in the local
pub named “vagninn” Siggi is telling me
further stories about Flateyri and his child-
hood. And they have all one thing in com-
mon: Inquisitiveness.
It is my third time here in Iceland and I
am always coming back to the Western
Fjords. Here you enter a particular world
full of secrets just waiting to be discov-
ered.
For the common observers small Icelandic
villages might seem lonely and isolated.
But if you keep the child in you and start
exploring you can find so many interesting
things that may change your point of view
afterwards.
For example, Siggi has just recently dis-
covered a nice hiking path up to the top of
 The elf lady was so grateful that she gave her a kind of paste which she
the mountains around Flateyri where he has never been before. And he has
should put on the boy’s body and face especially in the boy’s eyes. As a con-
been living here since 50 years.
sequence, Brynjólfur became a very brave, noble and clever man who was
able to read and translate the old manuscripts.
What started as a supposing unspectacular stay in Iceland is getting more
and more impressing. The ten days in Flateyri are certainly spinning away
The inhabitants of Flateyri are very proud that Brynjólfur was born in their
and I do not want to think about the farewell at all.
village. From now on whenever I hold a note of 1,000 krones in my hands I
will certainly remember this nice beautiful day as well as Johanna and her
On a cloudy morning we also went
sagas while us standing in the bitter
with Johanna – a lovely lady in her
60s and a living masterpiece in tell- “ never stop exploring wind and following her words like little
children. His image can be found on
ing legends and sagas of the Icelan-
dic culture - to Holt nearby Flateyri. and stay inquisitively wherever you are.” your notes of 1,000 krones as well. Just
check your wallet!
While Johanna is telling us the saga
about Brynjólfur Sveinsson a rainbow appears far away above the fjord. It is a
Last but not least here is my council particularly for the western fjords
mystical day - windy, cloudy and somehow sunny. Brynjólfur was born here.
of Iceland : never stop exploring and stay inquisitively wherever you are.
It is said that his mother Ragnheiður– being a direct ancestor in the tenth
generation of Johanna - helped the elf lady to bear her child.
Þetta reddast!
‘Everything is going to be okay’, Or is it?
This is a common phrase used by inhabit-
ants of the West Fjords. But Þorleifur
Eiriksson is less sure. He is the director
of the West Fjords Natural History In-
stitute in Bolungarvik and his small team
are responsible for charting how changes
in climate and environment are affecting
ecosystems in the West Fjords. He is very
worried about the future of the area and
believes that, “in ten years the West Fjords
could turn into a desert”.
Global warming has already had a significant impact. Lo-
cals have noticed that winters have become milder, with
far less snow and summers have been warmer and drier.
Over the next decade summer temperatures are expected
to rise by 0.25 °C per decade, and the winters by an av-
erage of 0.35 °C (Iceland’s Ministry of the Environment,
1997). Considering the extremely harsh winters, most Ice-
landers are delighted by the rising temperatures and ac-
tually the country is likely to benefit, at least in the short
term, from the melting glaciers.
Iceland relies heavily on hydropower and the increase in
melt-water from the glaciers is enhancing power produc-
tion.
For a country renowned for its pristine environment and
lack of pollution, it may surprise you that Iceland does not
have a great track record in the global race to be Green.
They resumed commercial whaling in 2006, one of just
two nations to defy the global moratorium. Icelandic
whaling ships can once again hunt endangered fin whales
and minke whales.
And in Reykjavik, for example, there was
hardly any evidence of recycling. Iceland
has one of the highest levels of municipal
waste per capita in the world and the av-
erage individual´s ecological footprint in
Iceland is 6.02, approximately double the
global average.
Local attitudes to the environment, sus-
tainability and conservation vary greatly.
The director of the ´Arctic Fox Centre´ in
Sudavik, Ester Rut Unnsteinsdottir, claims
that people here take the natural resourc-
es, wildlife and landscape for granted.
She has set up a
fascinating information
centre for visitors, school
groups and local people.
She said “business always comes first.
Here, people would sell their grandmother
for money”.
She was only partly joking. Ester has
moved her family from Reykjavik to a tiny,
isolated fishing village in the West Fjords
in order to continue research on Iceland´s
only indigenous mammal, the arctic fox.
She has set up a fascinating information
centre for visitors, school groups and local
people, but she has struggled with preju-
dice from some locals. “Here, the term
´naturalist´ is an insult”, she told us.
For both Ester and Þorleifur, piecing to-
gether the ´real story´ is the key to sus-
taining the unique environment of the
West Fjords.
Their research is underfunded, but critical
to understanding the fragile ecosystems
of the region and how tourism, industry
and development are affecting them.
Both research centres rely heavily on
volunteers and financial support from
abroad.
At the Arctic Fox Centre their main re-
search project is ´Wild North´; a study of
the effects of tourism on the population
and behaviour of foxes. Already she has
 “ Many Icelanders do not She has also made friends
with a 16 year old boy from

know a thing about the foxes, the village who is the de-
scendent of a legendary fox

although they are the most hunter and has grown up

with guns and a passion for

natural thing in Iceland ”. hunting.

He is now her keenest vol-

unteer and has taken re-
noticed the previously gregarious foxes
sponsibility for caring for the centre´s
are becoming shy and increasingly noctur-
orphaned fox cub, Frosty.
nal.

Although the Icelandic government has

Ester is an inspirational woman. She is not
been slow to recognise the need for re-
only working on the ´science´ of the re-
search and sustainability, more funding
gion, but also on the hearts and minds of
has been promised and progress is being
people.
made.

She was horrified that “many Icelanders

But it is thanks to the hard work and dedi-
do not know a thing about the foxes, al-
cation of Ester, Þorleifur, their colleagues
though they are the most natural thing in
and volunteers, that we may be able to
Iceland”.
say ´Þetta reddast´ with a bit more convic-
tion.
Since opening the centre last year, peo-
ple have gradually opened up to her. Fox
hunters, who are still paid a bounty by the
government of 3000 Kroner per fox tail,
have begun to bring her items, such as
snares, to exhibit in the museum.
Why or
Why not
live in
iceland ?
 Why * Iceland is like a nest,
people always come back to it
should
* The landscapes are beautiful
you live
in Iceland * There are work opportunities
* The country is peaceful and quiet
* This is a clean land
* The people are open,
friendly, kind and fun to be with
* There is a good
education and health system
* You can create a lot of
opportunity for yourself
* You are close to nature
* In small towns, the community
helps you to raise your children
* You can find interesting jobs
* This country is safe, the crime rate
is low, no need to lock your door
* This is the perfect place for children
* It feels good to be here
* The distances are short and
perfect for outdoor leisure activities
* You can be connected to nature
 Why * The darkness in winter
is hard to live with
* Not for you if you’re not used to
living in a small community
shouldn’t
* The weather is difficult * You can feel restricted and
you live and changes quickly oppressed by the landscape

in Iceland * The economic crisis has made * Theaters are almost

the situation hard to live exclusively found in Reykjavik
with higher prices
* You have fewer work opportunities
* There are no work opportunities if you have a high level of education

* Everything is expensive even if * Ecomonic reasons: not enough jobs

the prices are cheaper in Reykjavik and you can be better paid elsewhere

* There is too much * You don’t have many

government control kinds of jobs to choose from

* Icelanders do a shabby business * There aren’t many

of looking after nature leisure activities to do
 Fears of * Entering the EU because Iceland
will be swallowed and they won’t
the people be independant

of iceland * They want to keep their

uniqueness and independance

* All the young people will move

away for their studies and
won’t come back

* Changes in the climate affecting

the sea, the diversity of fishes,
and the landscapes

* Massive companies, big factories

 Being young in the WestFjords
For young people from Madrid, London, Milan or Kristo – 19
from Reykjavik
Brussels, it can seem rare to grow up between sea and
works during holidays in the restaurant of
mountains, where the nearest city is a 5 hour drive. In the maritime museum of Isafjordur

their town there are less than 4000 inhabitants and

the cinema is open only 3 or 4 days a week.
Bryn Jahuld – 23
studies bio-chemistry in Reykjavik

works in the bookshop during

In order to find out a bit more about the lives of summer holidays

young people , we met 7 locals aged 19 to 23 from

Flatteyri and Isafjordur. Although not enough to
Häkon – 18
make statistics (but do you really want to read a sta-
student working for the
tistics article?) you’ll at least get an idea about their city municipality during holidays.

lives, and perhaps how similar they are to yours ?

LIVING HERE Linda Björg
First of all, they like living here. „We are free here. Everybody Gudmundsdóttir - 19
knows everybody. Your parents let you go where you want” says studies piano, hopes to gain a place at
Loftur. Bryn Jahuld would like to raise her children up here for the the Icelandic Academy of Arts but failed
same reason. the first exam so she is waiting for next
year to try again
However few young people stay in Isafjordur without spending
time abroad to learn another language or at least move to Reyk-
javik to study. And after? „You never know” they say. Nowadays
a lot of young people go to Scandinavian countries „It is fashion-
able but it is also because of the prices. Here everything is so ex-
pensive”. They rarely move away for good. Helka, for exemple, Loftur – 23
lived in Berlin for her studies and came back here 3 weeks ago. studying sportbiology in Reykjavik to
work as a coach and ski guide or teacher
SCHOOL AND HOLIDAYS
The school year begins at the end of August and ends at the end works for the local municipality during
of May. Social life at school is more developed than in France, as the summer organizing work for
Bryn Jahuld says. The school organizes parties for the students, young people.
for exemple.

They have almost 3 months of holidays. Most of young people

work during their holidays. You can see them in the bakery, the
bookshop, petrol station, restaurants, campsites...
GUDNI – 17
They also like travelling. „My friends and I went to Rome, Milan, student working for the
Brussels, Munich, Barcelona, Andorra, London, etc.” explains city municipality during holidays.
Loftur. As they all speak English very well („ We are only 300 000
Icelanders, we need to speak other languages”), they can easily
go all around the world!
INDEPENDENCE
Compared with French, Italian or Span-
ish youth, Icelanders are much more inde-
pendent. Most of them pay for their own
studies and generally they move out of
the family home at 20, if not before.
ISOLATED?
Not as much as you’d expect. Even in this
remote region, their Internet connec-
tions are fast and you can get cell phone
reception everywhere. Everybody is on
facebook and they watch English and
American TV programmes... So, even if
they are far from a lot of things, they are
not so isolated!
FREE TIME
During the week, evenings seem to be
quiet. Music and sport are the most com-
mon hobbies. Swimming is the national
pasttime and they enjoy soaking in the
hot tubs with their friends. Football is the
most practiced sport in the country but
there are others .Hukon plays handball,
Daniel basketball and Loftur loves skiing.
On the other hand, people also enjoy the
arts. Linda plays a lot of piano and Bryn
Johuld loves literature.
At weekends, it is something else. Im-
portant notice for interested people : If
you are under 20, you cannot buy alcohol
or cigarettes (but once you are 18, you
can vote). Like everywhere in the world,
young people find a way around this, and
here an older friend buys the „goods” for
the others.
One strange tradition, which is very com-
mon, is the Rundtur: you take your car and
your friends and you make tours around
the town. It is always the same tour and
they make it several times. But they seem
to like it very much.
The typical plan, once you are over 20, is
to drink together at home, and at 1 a.m,
go to the bar until it closes which is usu-
ally around 4am. Of course, you have to
go to a good bar. There are two for young
people in Isafjordur. The coolest now is
the Langi Mongi which opened only a few
months ago because some people didn’t
like the former one any more. The Wag-
nerninn, Flatteyr’s drinking hole, is be-
coming „the place to be”, with regular
concerts and DJs that pull in people from
surrounding areas, including Isafjordur.
We tried an 80s party and it was great fun!
About drinking: „Icelandic young people drink a lot. We can drink one bottle There are so many people that everybody minds his own business and talks
of Vodka in one night” tells Bryk Jahuld. A bottle of vodka here, even the lo- only to his friends”. Although we cannot really comment on behalf of people
cal stuff, costs approximately 40 euros, so a night out for them is expensive. living in Reykjavik, as visitor and volunteer staying in the WestFjords for two
weeks, we can assure you that it is true that people in this area are very talk-
Reykjavik... Big city! ative and welcoming.
Most young people from this region have move to Reykjavik to go to univer-
sity (there is one university in Isafjordur but it only has e-learning). They are incredibly friendly, interested in us and our work and more than
happy to answer all of our questions!
Surprisingly for us, they don’t really dream about going to the capital. „I
have been living here all my life and it is just a village with only 300 inhabit-
ants. I have to go to Reykjavik to learn but it is such a big city, I am a bit wor-
ried” said Linda. Loftur, who already lives there, agrees: ‘Reykjavik is a really
stressfull city! I would be happy coming back here later”.

Kristo, from Reykjavik, explains a little bit more about the diferences be-
tween Reykjavik and West Fjords: „People are less shy here. Everybody talks
to everybody. When I arrived, everybody came at me to ask who I am, where
I come from, why I am here. In Reykjavik, it is not like that.
icelandic haiku
A Viking searches

This terrifying landscape

Carved from ice and rock.

Fishermen prosper The Hidden People

Hauling in their sea-harvest Ease suffering in lonely fjords

Waves crash; slow motion
Cold and wet and proud. A quiet magic.
Oblivious of bloodshed

Against ancient cliffs.

Death dark winters Untamed, defiant

Villages sometimes buried in snow The wilderness blooms in spring

Snow clouds gather
Time passes. And fears melt away.
A farmer collects his sheep

The blueberries are sweet.

My Song I am one of the hidden people
A little shadow with a beating heart.
A fraction of light in solid darkness, born.
Nestling in the cold contours of volcanic rock
Pushed forward by loneliness
I saw your fingers first through a fissure
Plump and pink
Like your face
lit up by the sinking sun.
Absentmindedly you watched the fog
Tip toe stealthily down the mountains
Settle on the glassy fjord.
I am one of the hidden people
A little shadow with a beating heart.
Fingers trailing through summer grass
Face smeared with sweet blueberry juice
I followed you that summer
Riding beside you like a wild horse
I placed stepping stones across the chilly streams
And once on a walk, when it was warm and still,
You slept with your head in my lap.
I am one of the hidden people
Just a shadow with a beating heart.
Do you remember snow was falling
When you packed your rucksack
And left?
The longing in your eyes
As the darkness spun around you
I should have known you’d leave.
I watched as your bus slid so easily
Into the long long tunnel.
I am one of the hidden people
Now alone with my beating heart.
 MADE BY

* Jonas Boni * Carlos Largo * Alejandro Tagarro

* Julie Bouniton * Marine Ledoyen * Romy Volkmann

* Francesco Di Massa * Sara Moreau Dignard * Elena Zanuccoli

* Nicola Gibberd * Emi Navarro Lacarra * Monica Butnaru

* Licia Gueye * Stefanie Nsom * Hana Raskova

* Ana Gutierrez Diaz * Elisabet Rens * Dita Vinovska

* Hyun Kim * Giuseppe Ricchi * Linda Matejovska

* Nerea Labado Mora * Rosella Rigamonti