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PREFACE --.nwllm.--W«"n---nmu«l.--inn.n.-I-nl„"nl---"m"l-.-m"lwl-.lwI„".-Ill

The versatility of this precision engineered machine will enable you

to make many beautiful decorative stitches You can easily make

buttonholes, do embroidery. blind liemming, sew on buttons and do

beautiful straight sewing also. We suggest you read this basic booklet

carefully so as to assure you maximum enjoyment of your machine,


11. NAME OF EXTERNAL PARTS

® Patch-O-matic darner ® Presser foot thumb screw


© Upper thread guide ® Needle-bar thread guide
© Release lever pattern selector ® Thread tension regulator guide bar
© Arm spool pins ® Thread guide
© Bobbin winder set button ® Face plate
© Zigzag stitch regulator knob ® Light switch
® Balance wheel ® Thread take-up lever
© Bobbin winder © Needle clamp
© Stitch length regulator ® Thread cutter
® Push button for reversible stitch ® Thread tension regulator
® Bobbin widing guide bracket ® Thread tension spring
® Drop-feed regulator (Push button type) ® Pattern selector Dial
® Needle plate ® Needle position lever
® Presser foot © Zigzag stitch indicator plate
® Slide plate © Zigzag lock knob
® Needle @ Stitch length indicator

-1-
2. PRINCIPAL FEATURES

a. Pattern Selector Dial :


This amazing sewing machine has the pattern cams built right into
the machine. You can select and dial the pattern you \\ith without
cha`iging cams.
b. Needle Position Lever :
The sewing position of the needle can be changed to rigth, center or
left of presser foot. These are marked by "R" for right, `<M" for mid-
dle and ``L" for left. By changing to these three positions you achieve
three times as many patterns.
c. Stitch Regulator :
The desired stitch length can be set by setting the stitch length dial at
dif[.erent graduations {md the corresponding stitch length is shown below
the dial. By pushing the reverse button you will get the same leilgth
stitch in reverse as forward.
d. Drop Feed Regulator :
On the surfa e of the machine you will mark two push buttons.
These regulate the amount of feed protruding above the needle plate
under the presser foot. For normal sewing right button should be flush
with machine, Sheer materials, set left button half w:iy up. By settin
left button flush with machine no feed will protrude.

I.`ig. 3
-2-
3. HOW TO WIND THE BOBBIN

Loosen the large nut on the hand wheel by turning it counter clock wi-

se. Push down on button on top of machine after the bobbin has been

clieked into position on the bobbin winder spindle as shown in figure 4.

After the bobbin is wound tighten the large nut to put rest of machine

in operation.

4. HOW TO REJVLOVE THE BOBBIN CASE

Turn the hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest point. Take

hold of bobbin-case latch handle and pull cut to your left as illustrated

in fig. 6. When inserting it follow same general instructions.

Fig. 6

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5. HOW TO THRAED THE BOBBIN CASE

Put the bobbin into the case and pull the thread through the slot until
it comes cut through the hole and under the tension spring as illustrated
in figs` 7, 8 and 9.

Fig. 7

in
6. HOW TO OPEN AND CLEAN SHUTTLE RACE

a)-Tilt head backwards. Remove bobbin case and bobbin. b)-Release the
two knobs that held the shuttle rim in place. c)-Remove shuttle. Use a i-.,-.=a`\
toothpick to remove all lint and thread accumulated in groove where
shuttle travels. Keep this groove well oiled.

Fig. 9

F`ig. 10 Fig. 11

-4-
7. HOW TO REPLACE A NEW NEEDLE

When inserting a needle make sure the flat side of the needle is towards
the inside of the machine and to your right. Also make sure the needle
ia all the way up into position. The needle should be uP against the
stop in the needle slot which can be soon.

8. HOW TO THREAD THE JVIACH'lNE

Bring the needle to its highest point.


Put thread through threadguide #1 and then down and between discs in
the thread tension #3. Now bring the thread behind the wire check spring
and then down under. the guide bar #4. Now up and through the hole
in the take up lever #5. Now downwards and through thread guides #6
and #7. Then through the needle from left to right, Always leave a
surplus of thread beyond the needle.

-5-
9. HOW TO BRIND THE BOBBIN THREAD UP
THROUGH THE NEEDLE PLATE

Hold the end of the upper thread in the left hand and turn the hand
wheel towards you with the right hand until the needle has made a com-

plete stroke and the bobbin thread will come up as illustrated in fig. 15.
Al-ways put both thre:ids under the presser foot before starting to sew.

10. STITCH LENGTH REGULATOR

The stitch length is set by the dial with numerals above and pictures of
the length of stitch below the dial, To sew in reverse just press the re-
verse button and you will get the same length stitch in reverse as the
machine is set for in forward sewing.

-6- Fig. 17
Tl. THREAD TENSION CONTROL

The upper thread tension is adjusted by turning the ten'sion dial illustrated
in Fig. 18. The tension is correct if the stitches appear in upper row in
F`ig. 19. If the thread lies flat on top as center row (C) there is too
much tension and the dial in Fig. 18 should be turned counter clockwise
until the correction is made. If they appear as in lower row (C) there
Fig. 18
is not enough tension on the upper thread and tighten by turning the
dial clockwise until corrected. There is also an adjustment for the tension Shuttl Tension

on the bobbin thread. This is a little set screw on the bobbin case and
the tension is increased by turning the screw clockwise.
Normally this neve requires adjusting.

Fig. 19

Upper thread tension is Under thread tension is


Perfect stitches (A) too tight (8) too tight (C)

Fig. 20

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112. PUSHBUTTON DARNING

The amount of pressure on the presser foot can be adjusted by the push-
button darner as illustrated in figures 21 and 22. When the darner is
released to its highest position darning can be done by moving the material
backwards and forwards manually. Thin materials require less tension
than heavy ones do and this adjustment can be made with the pushbutton
darner. For stretchy materials such as jersey less tension should be used
on the presser foot so the material can be stratched as you sew.

13. PUSHBUTTON DROP FEED

The two buttons on the base of the machine are for adjusting the amount
of feed mechanism protruding through the needle plate. For normal
sewing the right hand button should be down and flush with the base of
the machine. F`or sheer materials such as silks the left button should be
half way down and this will prevent puckering. For hoop embroidering
the foot is removed and the right button pushed flush with the bed of
the machine.

F,g. 23

-8-
114. BUILT-lN LIGHT

Two insure a beam of light on the sewing area at all times the light is

located directly above the needle. The bulb is easily replaced by opening

the face plate.

Fig. 24
A 8 C D E

P
A
T
'
II

II
iF
T I'

:
I

II

R
N iI

S Ii

Stitch length 5 5 1-2 1-2 1-2

Width zigzag 0 4 4 0-4 2-4


15. ZIGZAG AND NORMAL STRAIGHT SEWING

For normal straight sewing and normal zigzag sewing the pattern dial
should be set on "MANUAL". For straight sewing loosen lock nuts 1 and
2 F`ig. 26 so that zigzag dial returns to 0.
The width of zigzag stitch is regulated by the zigzag width dial Fig. 26.
33. To lock zigzag width tighten lock nut #1, Fig. 26. Lock nut #2
locks zig zag so that it cannot be widened.
Ho_vi `to select embroidery patterns

To `turn pattern selector knob #6, figures 26 & 28, hold release lever #5,
fig. 26, to extreme right while turning the knob. When desired pattern
shews in upper window push release lever back to the left position.
By changing the needle position lever #8 fig. 26, to either rfght, center
of left the embroidery pattrnes change accordingly, thus giving three
times as many patterns.

Fig. 29 Fig. 30 Fig. 28

-10-
116. BLIND HEMMING

The blind hemming stitch is built into the machine. Turn pattern selector
to show pattern in fig. 31, F`old hem as shown in fig. 32. Guide material
so that when the zigzag stitch appears it catches the folded edge:#A fig
32. When the hem is turned back #8 fig. 32 the stitches will appear as
hand hemming on the outside.

17. SEWING ON BUTTONS

Use either regular zigzag foot or special button foot Fig. 33. Drop feed
to prevent material from moving. Place button in desired spot on material
and set zigzag width so that needle strikes two of the holes in the button.
Sew several stitches with the needle zigzaging from hole to hole.
Then two holes are done move button and repeat operation in next two
holes.

Fig. 33
-11-
18. JVLAK[NG BUTTONHOLES

Use either the zigzag or the buttonhole foot. Set needle position lever
on L. Set zigzag width on 2 and lock so it cannot return to 0.
Set stitch length for satin stitch (Near 1). Bartack the first and of butto-
nhole by holding zig zag knob to # 4 for three or four stitches. Allow
zigzag width to return to #2 and sew desires length of buttonhole.
Bartack by holding zigzag on #4 for three or four stitches. While bartack-
ing hold material from feeding to pile stitches close together. After
bartacking allow zigzag width to return to #2. Turn hand wheel by
hand until needle penitrates the material in center of foot and with the
needle in material pivot material 180 degrees to return and finish the
other side of buttonhole. Sew remainding side -of buttonhole and cut
center with seamrippei-.
19. NARROW llEMMER

Turn balance wheel toward you until needle reaches its highest point.
Raise presser bar and remove regular presser foot.
Attach hemmer foot (fig. 36). Now handle material as follows:
1. Fold over edge of material approximately 1/8" wide, then fold it over
again in the same way for a length of about 2". Insert this folded
end form beneath into spiral formed opening (scroll) of hemmer foot.
Move mateyial back and forth until the hem forms itself in the scroll.
2. Pull matei-ial toward you until the beginning of the hem is just below
the needle. Fig. 36
3. Lower presser foot and begin to sew. Guide into hemmer foot while
proceeding with work (fig. 36).

NOTE : Do not crowd material into scroll and do not leave scroll only partly
filled by material. Feed just enough material into the hemmer foot to
fill out the scroll.
Instead of a straight stitch, you can also use a zig-zag stitch for this
hemming operation. Be sure however, to adjust the width of the zig-zag
stitch to be as wide as the hem itself. Using a very long stitch and
tight tensions will produce a shell stitch.

Fig. 37

-13-
20. SEWING BRAIDS

Remove ordinary presser foot from the machine and attach braiding foot,
as shown in Fig. 38. Introduce braid through small hole at front of foot.
Adjust width of zig-zag stitch and length of stitch to obtain a covering
of the braid which appears most desirable for the material you are sewing.
Using needle thread of a contrasting color will enhance the beauty of
your braiding.

FELLING

Use the hemmer foot for doing felling and proceed in the following
manner :
1. Lay two pieces of cloth one on top of the other with their RIGHT
sides facing each other. The right edge of the bottom piece must
extend about 1/8 inch beyond the right edge of the top piece. See
Fig. 39.
2. Sew both pieces of cloth together using the hemmer foot like a
regular presser foot. Use the right edge of long toe of hemmer
foot-^to guide the bottom piece of material, while the left edge of
the saine toe serves as a guide for the top piece of material.
Fig. 39 shows this detail.
3. Open and spread out material and put back on machine right sides
downward. Make sewn edges of material stand up.
4. F`old over the edges to the left and insert them into the scroll of
the hemmer foot. Sew as you would do ordinary hemming. Use
left edge of long toe of hemmer foot as guide, having original seam
run along.side of it (F`ig. 40).
Fig. 40
-14-
211. QulLTING

The quilter (Fig. 41) will enable you to sew equi-distant lines on padded
fabrics without the necessity of marking them in advance. To attach the
quilter to the presser bar of the machine, first pull long wire hook out
of horse-shoe shaped clamp. Slide the clamp on the presser bar from
behind and above ordinary presser foot, and push the wire hook into its
previous place.
Adjust wire hook to desired distance from needle and bring it to press
into fabric. Then tighten thumb screw extending backward from horse- Fig. 41

shoe shaped clamp to lock quilter attachment into place. When sewing,
wire hook should follow preceding line of stitching.
Zig-zag stitch quilting is done the same as straight stitch quilting with
the exception of the position of the zig-zag stitch dial which should be
set for any desired width of zig-zags titch.

CLOTH GUIDE

The cloth guide (Fig. 42) serves as a guide for straight stitch-ing when
making wide hems, deep tucks or seam widths which are greater than
presser foot allows.
It is attached to machine as illustrated.
Fig. 42

-15-
22. LIST OF NEEDLEITHREADICLOTH
(PROPER SELECTION):

DARRNING EMBRAIDERING & MANAGRAMMING

Push down left pnshbutton of your pushbutton drop feed, then the feed dog of the machine will drop and permit
the work to be moved by hand in any direction desired. Also remove presser foot and raise foot lifting lever into
horizontal line. and your machine is ready for embroidering and darning. Embroidery will be done most succes-
sfully when material is strectched in an embroidery hoop. Hold the hoop closely on the machine base with both
hands and press the material with your left index finger in the vicinity of the needle. This will help in holding
down the material and will prevent the machine from making skip stitches. Manipulate work carefully and be
sure to keep finger out of path of needle to avoid injury. Adjust thread tensions for best appearance of embroi
dery work and slightly increase the lower thread tension (bobbin thread) to avoid the lower thread from being
pulled up.

-16-
23. OILING

Oil all moving parts as indicated in Figuree 43, 44 and 45.

Fig. 44

Fig. 45

-17-
NEEDLE AND THREAD SIZES (USE 15xl NEEDLE ONLY)

Sizes & Grades of Type of Fabric SIZE OF` THREAD


and
Needles Work to be Done Cotton Silk Linen
80to100
8 or 11(Medium-Fine) 0Twist

i ¥r::uso::;I::hart)en:s:]s:h:h:I::e:Tsmd=:::]eT,ewf::::Cbsie cotton dresses,


I Dress silks and cottons, light weight woolens, draperies, fabric
60
1/2 or 14 furnishings. A&B
to80
(Medium) For gefleral household sewing, fine men's shirts, smocks, Twist
window draperies and fabric decorations.

Heavy cretonne, madras, muslin, brocades and quilts. For 40


1 or 16(Light-Heavy) CTwist
men's work shirts, sturdy smocks and aprons, heavy quilting to
and fabric furnishings. 60

Heavy woven coating, light weight canvas, bed ticking, 30


2 or 18 upholstery and awning materials, slipcover fabrics. D
to/40
(Medium-Heavy) For work or sports uniforms, suits made of strong linen or Twist
i cotton fabrics, awnings, slip covers and mattresses.
Heavy woven suiting, coating, duck, ticking, drilling, canvas 10 60
3 or 19(Heavy) ETwist
and sacking. For heavy wash uniforms, bedding supplies for to to
hospitials, hotels and camps. 30 80

40to60
4 or 21(Extra-Heavy) VeryCoarse
For bags, canvas, coarse cloths and heavy goods.

-18-
/

CAUSES OF CAMMAN DIFFICLJLTIES

BREAKING OF THE UPPER THREAD:


1. Incorrect threading 2. Upper thread tension too tight
3. Faulty needle, or needle set incorrectly 4. Needle brushing against presser foot or other attachment
5. Nelede eye too small for thread used 6. Starting the machine suddenly or with a jerk
7. Starting the machine with the take up lever at its highest position

BREAKING 0F THE LOWER THREAD:


1. Incorrect threading of the bobbin case 2. Lower thread tension too tight
3. Bobbin being wound too fully 4. Rough edge of hole in needle plate caused by improper
needle agction
BREAKING OF THE NEEDLE:
1. Pulling the fabric while machine is running, thus causieg the needle to strike the needle plate
2. Using btnt needle

SKIPPING STITCHES :
1. Using bent or blunt needles 2. Needle inserted incorrectly
3. Needle threaded improperly 4. Using wrong sized needle
5. Pressure of presser foot insufficient. especially when sewing heavy material

UNEVEN STTITCHES :
I. Presser foot not resting evenly on material 2. Feed dog not being high enough
3. Too short stiches used 4. Pulling the coth while the machine is running
5. Using a too fine a needle with a too coarse thread

-19_
24® NAME OF ATTACHMENTS

424. Needle
425. Bobbin
426. Bulb\
427. Needle plate for straight stitch
428, Needle plate for embroidery
429, Ruler
430. Thumb screw for ruler
431. Ruler with slide
432. Presser-foot for straight stitch
433. Hemmer
434. Presser-foot for button fixing
435. Presser-foot for button hole
436. Cutter for button hole
438. Felt for arm spool pin
440. Oiler with Oil
441. Screw driver (large)
F`ig. 46
442. Screw driver. (small).

-- 20 -
_ _ ___ _.,.=='---'---_-__---v-_-__I

25. .NAJVLE OF ATTACHMENTS i

424. Needle
4.25. Bobbin
426. Bulb
427. Needle plate for straight stitch
428. Needle plate for embroider'y
429, Ruler
430. Thumb screw for ruler
431. Ruler with slide
432. Presser-foot for straight stitch
433. Hemmer
434. Presser-foot for button fixing
435. Presser-foot for button hole
436. Cutter for button hole
438. Felt for 'arm spool pin
440. Oiler with Oil
441. Screw driver (large)
442. Screw driver (small). Fig. 49

-21-
LIST 0F. ZIG ZAG PATTERNS

I ) Automatic zig zag PATTERN

N-a-edlepositioi:- Needle position


L M R I Pattern selector L .M R
> _<1-
i
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S
P >
S
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i `.`/ <i=

`\ ,,/ -T=

A > ! \\--,I A I,, ZI- _ \ ,---\I+,Ii\-I,Zl-l^.I./,,•LE-/ : ? xpF=

PAT ERN
T --- T=II: ±=I-:--- --. ----=----:

T
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R
I:
: g - =-= ,I-i8

a
`L . i+
=~Si'

=
i:=!'

E
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III
`T,+±J==.=5!'
-a.`-„r=--~,

I
I,-_En
I.__'_
Full zig za8 PATTERN by hand ob:€F=Ii5lnTF|

7JfJJ_A(G NEEDLE
1
WIDTH POSITloN

=, 2 L

2 R

ZIGZAG NEEDLE
2 L 3 WIDTH POSITloN

2 R 0-4 L`

4-0 R

1L
ZIGZAG NEEDLE
2 WIDTH POSITloN
0-4
_- = fa- - = i= :-_:=_= -a= r_- =€=J=_I- ai=-.` -=`-_=`i=- i_- - =- `-_ -
2 L 4-0 R
4 L I
2 R

2 L

4 L

2 R

--23 -
TjirfifNG NEEDLE
4 WIDTH POSITloN

= 4-2-4
4-2-4
L

Z'GZAG NEEDLE
4-2-4 L 6 WIDTH poslT.10N'`

4-2-4 R 0-4-0 L

0-4-0 M

TJ!ffJJNG NEEDLE
0-4-0 R
5 WIDTH POSITloN

0-4-0 L 0-4-0 L

0-4-0 R

i 0-4--0

0-4-0
L

-24-
GIGZAG NEEDLE
7 WIDTH POSITloN

2 L-M-R

2 R-M-L
ZIGZAG NEEDLE
---:--I
9 W!DTH POSITloN

2 L-M-R 1.5 L
1.5 M

':jTr-_
L5 R

1.5 M
ZIGZAG NEEDLE
8 WIDTH POSITloN
I.5 L
1.5 M
0-4 L
1.5 R
4-0 R

0-4 R

4-0 L

0-4 L

4-0 R

-25-
MEMO
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