Two Speed Temperature Fan PWM Controller http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/Two_Speed_Temperature_Fan_Con...

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11 August 2009
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Two Speed Temperature Fan PWM Controller Tweet

Curtir 8

In many cases, we need a fan to cool a device or an area only when it is

hot. In this case, a temperature controller is needed. There are some cheap
temperature controllers in the market. But the circuit that i present here is more
than this. It is also a PWM fan speed controller, suitable for almost any kind of Reddit this
DC fan. The fan is turned on at low speed when the temperature has reach the
first level, and then it runs at full speed when it goes above the higher level.
Both levels are controlled by independent potentiometer for easier adjustment. The circuit in operation. The
The low speed of the fan is also controlled by an independent potentiometer. black 'thing' on the left of the
thermometer is the NTC

H
O
T in
heaven!

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In Action! NEW in
heaven!

New Theory: AC electric motor

working principle

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The circuit

Following i present you the circuit.

Although i tried to keep it as simple as possible, the requirements i had on the first place increased the
difficulty a little bit. I did not want just a simple temperature controller. The circuit has two temperature set-
points. The first set-point will turn on the fan but not in full speed. The fan will be controlled through a PWM
generator performed by the 555. This set point is chosen from the R2 potentiometer. The fan speed can be set by
changing the duty cycle of the PWM generator using the R5 potentiometer. As the temperature rises, there is
another set-point that will set the fan in full speed. This set point is selected using the potentiometer R6.

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Circuit Operation:

From left to right, first we see the NTC. I chose a 4K NTC performing a voltage divider along with the
R1. From their common point, two signals are leaving. The first one will drive the T2 through the R2
potentiometer. The transistor T2 will turn on or off the next transistor T1. When T1 is turned on, the 555 will get
enough power to operate. The 555 is connected as a PWM generator. The frequency of the 555 is above acoustic
frequencies to avoid any kicking sound from the fan. The output of 555 is driven to the T3-T4 pair that perform
an OR logic gate. The PWM pulses are driven as-is directly to the gate of the mosfet.

On the other hand, there is another signal leaving from the R1-NTC pair. This signal is driven to the 741
inverting input. The 741 performs a comparator. The non-inverting input comes from the potentiometer R6, that
gives a DC level for comparison. The output of the 741 is driven directly to the other port of the T3-T4 transistor
pair. When the output of the 741 is driven high, then the gate of the mosfet is also driven high, and the PWM
pulses have no effect on it. Therefore, the fan will run at full speed.

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Adjusting the circuit

Before start adjusting the circuit, we need to make sure two things:

1. The 'full speed' temperature set point is above the 'low speed' temperature set point
2. The PWM pulses have a duty cycle able to rotate the fan

First, we need to make sure that the 'full speed' temperature set point is
above the 'low speed' temperature set point. To do so, we will set the 'full
speed' at a very high temperature, the highest possible. Put all potentiometers
near the center. Then power on the circuit. Turn the R6 potentiometer
completely to one side. If the fan start to rotate, then turn it on the other side.
The side that the fan does not rotate is the one that we want.

Then, we need to make sure that the PWM duty cycle is able to rotate You can adjust the circuit
the fan. To do so, turn the R2 completely to one side. Then, start rotating the under real conditions or using
R5 from side to side until the fan start rotating. If the fan does not rotate in another heat source like a
either sides, then go back to R2 and turn it completely to the other side. The R5 thermo-gun for heat shrinks.
potentiometer can be used to set the low speed of the fan. Set the speed that
you desire and proceed to next step.

Now you need to set the temperature level for the 'low speed'
operation. I use my electronic-controlled thermo gun for my heat shrinks and a
thermometer. I turn on the gun and i put the thermistor and the thermometer
side to side across the gun. The gun is set to it's lowest temperature possible
and i keep it about 20cm away from the thermometer. At this point, i get about
40 �C. When the temperature is steady for about one minute, start
turning the R2 until the fan is turned off. Then turn it the other way. you must I have the regulator of the
find the exact point where the fan is turned on. When you do so, you are done thermo-gun set to 1, the lowest
with the 'low speed' set-point. scale possible.

The next and last step is to set the 'full speed' temperature. In continue to the above procedure, put the
thermo-gun closer to the NTC-thermometer pair. The temperature will rise. Using my gub, at about 15 cm i get
around 46 �C. When the temperature is stable for about a minute or so, start turning the R6
potentiometer. Do it slowly and find the exact point where you hear the fan rotating at full speed. If you have
done this correctly, the circuit is ready to operate. The fan will turn on at about 40 �C and revolve at 'low
speed'. If the temperature goes above 46 �C, the fan will revolve at full speed. That's it!

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Selecting a different NTC

I have not try it but i suppose the circuit will work with another NTC as well. The R1 should have
resistance near the resistance of the NTC. Be careful not to select a low resistance NTC because the current
that will go through will be large enough to destroy the NTC and the resistor.

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Relative pages

555 timer basic circuits

555 theory of operation
Dr.Calculus: 555 Astable multivibrator calculator
How to make a PWM fan controller / LED dimmer using a 555
How to make a light / dark activated switch - 3 different circuits under the microscope
Create PWM pulses with variable duty cycle controlled by a DC voltage input
PWM signal theory
Control a 3-wire Fan with PWM pulses and use the Pulse Stretching method to get clear rpf feedback
An intelligent self-tunned fan PWM controller
Learn about the most popular PC Cooling methods
PIC Thermometer and thermostat circuit, designed for etching baths
Re-use and/or extend your molex connectors

Comments

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BEFORE you post a comment:You are welcome to comment for corrections and suggestions on this page.
But if you have questions please use the forum instead to post it. Thank you.

At 16 May 2014, 0:46:29 user hassan wrote: [reply @ hassan]

I built the circuit in proteous...but fan is not rotating there :(

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Two Speed Temperature Fan PWM Controller http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/Two_Speed_Temperature_Fan_Con...

At 6 December 2013, 6:52:59 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote: [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]

@Christopher Sauer Well, it should start rotating. Either you have a problem with the comparator, or
the thermistor or the driving mosfet

At 6 December 2013, 6:49:14 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote: [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]

@Christopher Sauer Usually people have trouble connecting the diodes correct on the PWM. OR it
could be a problem with the thermistor input?

At 20 November 2013, 17:07:28 user Christopher Sauer wrote: [reply @ Christopher Sauer]

I've built the circuit just as you draw it and I'm heating the thermistor with a heat-shrink gun, but the
pot's are not having any influence. On the 1st part of the adjust procedure, the fan does NOT stop
rotating when turning R6. Can tou give more details about the adjustment? Thanks.

At 11 November 2013, 16:50:28 user Christopher Sauer wrote: [reply @ Christopher Sauer]

@Giorgos Lazaridis
I've done everything you said and built the circuit just as it is on the schematics, bu when I power it on,
the fan starts and keeps on the same speed, even if I try to set the pots as you explained above. It's like
the pots are having no influence on the circuit at all. Can you help me?
Thanks.

At 10 November 2013, 14:57:57 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote: [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]

@Christopher Sauer Yes. But maybe smaller R2, like 50K or 20K

At 10 November 2013, 13:39:51 user Christopher Sauer wrote: [reply @ Christopher Sauer]

@Giorgos Lazaridis
And what about the 50k thermistor? Use it with a 50k R1?

At 8 November 2013, 10:05:36 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote: [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]

@Christopher Sauer I'm not sure, i have not checked the datasheet.

At 6 November 2013, 19:24:47 user Christopher Sauer wrote: [reply @ Christopher Sauer]

Can I use the LM393N instead of the LM741P?

And to use a 50k thermistor, I will need a 50k R1, right?
Thanks

At 6 January 2013, 22:08:29 user Marty wrote: [reply @ Marty]

@Giorgos not what I wanted to hear.

Anyway, thank you for all your effort and monies you put into your site. I truly appreciate it. Has made
my interest much more rewarding. Thanks again. -marty

At 6 January 2013, 12:55:54 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote: [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]

@Marty no it is not easy

At 3 January 2013, 22:38:40 user Marty wrote: [reply @ Marty]

Question, can the closed loop high frequency circuitry be integrated into this circuit? I like the

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Two Speed Temperature Fan PWM Controller http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/Two_Speed_Temperature_Fan_Con...

advantages of the closed loop circuit however need the dual speed/temperature control for my
application. Thank you for your time. -marty

At 19 July 2012, 9:20:18 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote: [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]

@Sebastian yes it is, connect them in parallel.

At 19 July 2012, 8:40:13 user Sebastian wrote: [reply @ Sebastian]

Hey

Nice Solution. But is it Possible to Control three Fans at the same time with this Circuit?

At 16 March 2012, 20:43:50 user Giorgos Lazaridis wrote: [reply @ Giorgos Lazaridis]

@shawn for what? for cooling the engine water? no it can't

At 16 March 2012, 3:10:11 user shawn wrote: [reply @ shawn]

can this also be used in an automotive application or would i need to mod this design some?

At 19 November 2011, 3:06:04 user Neric wrote: [reply @ Neric]

Never mind, I got it figured out the E,B,C on my tarnsistors was maped wrong. In any event if someone
need the PCB transfer and BOM let me know this one is with the LEDs what can u say I am a sucker
for these little busters

At 18 November 2011, 2:10:25 user Neric wrote: [reply @ Neric]

Like Tim from At 19 January 2010 am too having a problem with the fan being on all the time with no
effect from the trim pots.
I have verify that all my connection are true and par the recommendations for an alternative value for
NTC mine is 19K so I divided it with 20K and my transistors are 2N2222A and 2N4401 (all what was
available)...so this kept me puzzled I have tried different value for R4,5,6 and 9 with no success so
please help as I am stump

At 12 March 2011, 20:05:49 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

as i explain, the LEDs are only for demo. they are not supposed to be connected to the breadboard, as
they will not operate normally. If you want to add them no matter what, you can connect them one from
pin 6 of the 741, and one from pin 8 or 4 of the 444, but you must add also a protective resistor, like
470 ohm or above. This is something that you have to test yourself

At 11 March 2011, 13:04:33 user ronnie wrote: [reply @ ronnie]

ah okay..thanks for the help..

but my last question is, where do you exactly connect the terminals of the two LED's? I can't see the
breadboard connection clearly if I zoom it in because it's kinda pixelated..

thank you very much again!!! :)

At 8 March 2011, 20:29:17 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

Ronnie, read the article

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Two Speed Temperature Fan PWM Controller http://pcbheaven.com/circuitpages/Two_Speed_Temperature_Fan_Con...

At 8 March 2011, 19:10:52 user Ronnie wrote: [reply @ Ronnie]

Hi again..:)

I've just completed my circuit by following the schematic diagram, and it works. My only problem is,
how can I increase the sensitivity of my thermistor? I used a different value of thermistor. The fan is not
running for a typical heat coming from the CPU of a computer. But, the fan starts to run when I put a
very hot soldering iron near it.. how can I make the fan runs even for a lower temperature??

thanks again for the help..! :)

At 7 March 2011, 13:42:03 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

Ronnie if you want to make this circuit, you must follow the schematic of course. But no matter what,
the circuit on the breadboard is the same always with the schematic. The only thing that i have add in
some cases is a smoothing capacitor across the power supply.

At 7 March 2011, 13:14:07 user Ronnie wrote: [reply @ Ronnie]

hi

Should I follow only the schematic diagram and not the one connected in the breadboard? because in
some of your videos like the PIC closed loop fan controller, there are no any trimmer in the schematic
diagram, but in the breadboard, I saw a trimmer... which one would I follow? the one in the breadboard
or the one in the schematic diagram?

I hope you could help me, because I'm doing this one for my project in school...thanks..

At 27 February 2011, 9:38:10 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

It does not really increase the speed, it has 2 set points with 2 different speeds, low and full speed. read
the circuit description.

At 27 February 2011, 4:07:49 user King wrote: [reply @ King]

Hi!

I want to ask the circuit for a PWM control. It increase the speed of a motor with temperature rising.
How can it work?

At 18 November 2010, 5:52:55 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

Keeping the temperature steady is not always possible. I tried it myself and failed. There are cases that
this can be achieved, but it has to do mainly with the ambient temperature.
In any case, this very circuit will not change linear your fan speed. Also, i have never use such a sensor
so i do not know if it will work.

At 17 November 2010, 22:33:46 user Hagop wrote: [reply @ Hagop]

Hi

I need to build a circut that can controll fan speed by using temperature feedback circuit, and i should
be able to set the temperature as example to 30 degree, then the fan should increase or decrease linearly
with the temperature to hold the room temperature stable on my setting. I am using two wire fan and
temp sensor pt1000 from ELFA as shown in the link below:

https://www1.elfa.se/elfa3~no_no/elfa/init.do?item=76-688-59&toc=19411&
name=motstandstermometer_pt1000

What kind of change i need if i want to use your circuit?

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Regards

At 19 October 2010, 13:53:19 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

I know what you mean. The fan starts when the temp is high, and when it starts the temp cools down
fast, and then it stops etc etc etc. Although i have not test it, in a glance, i would advice you put an RC
between T2 and T1. So, here how it should go. Reduce R4 to 1K. Then, remove the connection between
T2 and T1. Instead, put a rheostat there. Then, between the T2 and the rheostat, put an electrolytic
capacitor to the ground. I would try first with 47uF capacitor and 50K rheostat. Here is how to connect:

http://pcbheaven.com/forum/index.php?topic=1067.0

In theory, this would work. Try different capacitors and maybe rheostat values. Please share with us the
results.

At 19 October 2010, 2:32:41 user sakbar wrote: [reply @ sakbar]

Hello,

I have built on of this. But got a slight problem. the system turn itself on and off every few seconds,
how to have the circuit turn on at threshold point and run atleast for a pre-determind time, say a minute.

Also for the circuit I'hv used 50k NTC with 100k pot for r1(set at 50k). Also using irf540 i/o 520.

really appreciate the good design

At 19 October 2010, 2:26:53 user sakbar wrote: [reply @ sakbar]

Very good project, build one already running ok. But the problem is it turns on and off every few
seconds, Can you advice how to have the circuit start and run for atleast a minute so that it does not turn
itself on and off every few seconds.

for building I could not find 4k NTC, instead using 50k NTC with a 100k pot set at 50k for r1. Also
using IRF540 instead of 520 and running very smoothly.

thanks
akbar

At 31 August 2010, 2:36:49 user Michael Conner wrote: [reply @ Michael Conner]

I need to reverse the operation of this circuit ie I need to have the fan on high speed at the lower
temperature and cycle down when the temp gets warmer and shut down at a predetermined high temp.

At 20 April 2010, 19:00:22 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

The circuit can handle up to 9 Amps, so yes, it would! (24V 50Watt = 2.08 Amps)

At 31 March 2010, 2:52:37 user Michael wrote: [reply @ Michael]

would this circuit work on a 24V,50watts Fan,thanks

At 19 January 2010, 0:01:57 user Tim wrote: [reply @ Tim]

If you are still interested in this circuit I'd like to email personally about it rather than post the entire
exchange online. I'm having difficulty with T3 allowing current to flow all the time. Does npn allow
current. and stop the flow with a positive bias maybe? My fan operates all the time, regardless of pot
settings. A volt meter indicates a voltage reduction at the output of about 2 volts when adjusting the
duty cycle. I couldn't find BC337 so I have tried 2N2222 and 2N4401 for T3 with the same results.
I have completed an nice little single sided pcb layout I can contribute if we can solve this issue.

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At 14 January 2010, 21:52:30 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

Well, Tim, if you want my advice, forget about the autoroute. I tried to get some elegant PCBs using
autoroute, but the result is really poor. Take my advice and draw manually the lines one by one. I know
this is rather frustrating, but it really works. And after 3-4 tries, you will get the 'eye' and the 'hand' and
you will draw the lines really fast. Use the airwires (the yellow straight lines) as guides, but draw the
wires yourself. You will see that the airwires are very helpful. try it.
As for the reverse, you can directly print the circuit reversed from eagle.

At 14 January 2010, 21:41:21 user Tim wrote: [reply @ Tim]

If you have a few more moments, I could use a bit more advice. I downloaded/installed Eagle, and
figured out how to input the circuit as shown above. I am struggling with component layout on the
PCB. I successfully figured out how to set the autoroute to single layer but end up wit lots of airwires. I
can't figure out how to optimize the component layout to acheive a successful trace route. Any advice
for this newbie? I will also go try to locate a forum for the eagle software.

At 14 January 2010, 4:27:32 user Tim wrote: [reply @ Tim]

Sorry I don't know the correct terminology. By reverse layout, I mean when you print pcb pattern, that
it does it upside down for transfer to the bottom of the pcb board for etching with that ferro whatever
chemcal from Radio Shack. I'll go look for the eagle lite software and see if I can figure it out.

Tim

At 13 January 2010, 19:37:12 user Kammenos wrote: [reply @ Kammenos]

Hi Tim,

What do you mean 'reverse layout'? For negative photo resistive PCBs? I'm sorry i really do not know. I
use the eagle PCB lite version and do photoresistive method with positive photo transfer. btw, check
this out:

http://pcbheaven.com/projectpages/PCB_Photographic_Artwork_Transfer_UV_Cabinet

At 13 January 2010, 19:30:37 user Tim wrote: [reply @ Tim]

Nice project. I think it will work fine as the basis for an application to cool my beehives in mid August.
I am using a solar cell as power supply. I used to do wire wrapping techniques but would rather do
pcb\'s for this project. I think I will build 4-5 of these. I have no experience creating a pcb, but have
read how to do so with a laser printer/photopaper technique. Did you ever create a reverse pcb layout
for this project? If not, might you point me to some software to create the reverse layout?

Tim

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