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Agenda

•  Who we are
•  The big picture
•  Looking ahead
•  Where to go next
Key Advisory Teammembers
Shreya Mukherjee
Geography: India, Australia
Category: Health & Beauty,
Fitness, Sustainability
Demos: Young Adults,
Emerging Consumers
Jennifer Haid
Category: Health & Beauty;
CPG
Jeff Yang
Geography: China, Korea,
Japan
Category: Media & Tech;
Money / Spending
Demos: Midlifers; Middle Class
Kelly Koster
Category: Health & Beauty;
Wellness; Personal Care
Valeria Piaggio Nick Chiarelli
Geography: Latin America Geography: Europe
Category: CPG; Retail Category: Travel & Leisure
Demos: Women, Affluent Demos: Seniors / Aging
Stefania Revelli Corinne Asturias
Category: Health & Beauty; Category: Sustainability
Travel & Leisure Demos: Boomers / Midlifers
Demos: Women
Global Consumer Advisory

•  Transcultural
insight
Global •  Strategic
Strategists foresight

•  Category and
demographic
expertise Consumer Cultural •  Real-time
observation
Strategists Fluents •  Cultural
analysis
The Cultural Fluent Network

• Dozens of native cultural experts

• Hundreds of immersed observers
The Advisory Insights Matrix
CATEGORY EXPERTS
DEMO
TEAM
Media/ Transpor- Travel/ Financial Health/ Retail/ Home/
Tech Food Beverage Green
Entertain. tation Leisure Services Beauty CPG Garden

Kids &
Teens

Young
Adults

Midlifers

Seniors

BOP

MC

Affluent

Women

Men

GLOBAL STRATEGISTS

AMERICAS EUROPE E. ASIA S.A./PAC.

CULTURAL FLUENTS
USA CAN ARG BRA MEX FRA GER ITA SPA GBR RUS TUR CHN JPN KOR AUS IND
Agenda

•  Who we are
•  The big picture
•  Looking ahead
•  Where to go next
 Beauty was…
•  Black lustrous hair
and temples "as
thin as cicada
wings”
•  Finely shaped
black eyebrows
Xi Shi (西施) •  Large, bright
expressive eyes
•  Red lips and white
teeth
•  Fair, smooth skin
•  Slender waist, tiny
feet and a light
elegant gait
•  Fragrant body
18th Century Korean Beauty 1950s Photograph of Bijin

EAST ASIA THEN

 Beauty is
becoming…
•  Slender
•  Curvaceous
•  Cute
•  Expressive
Gong Li “Artificial Beauty” Hao Lulu
•  Enhanced

Norika Fujiwara Kim Tae-Hee

EAST ASIA NOW

The idea of what is beautiful in China is greatly influenced by
Korea, Japan and the West. Long legs and a thin waist are
considered beautiful, but more and more the ideal female figure
is curvy, though less so than what is ideal in the West. That's why
Gong Li is the paragon of beauty here. Even though she’s 40,
she’s still featured in many cosmetic ads — she has a ripe body
with a very classic Chinese face, fair skin, shiny hair, white teeth,
large eyes, and a small nose and mouth.
—Naudia Lou, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, China

Many young women, and even some older ones, equate cute with
beautiful. A lot of guys like the cute look too, because it meshes
with their view of how a woman should appear — presentable,
attractive, but not threatening or overtly sexual.
—Will Jasprizza, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Japan

In Korea, beauty is hard work. There’s no shame in going under

the knife — more and more people, including men, are doing it,
thinking they’ll do better in life if they’re more attractive. They’re
probably right. Pale skin, wide eyes and slender builds are prized
— girlish features over voluptuous, cute over sensual.
—Jeongmae Choi, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Korea
 Beauty was…
•  “The ideal woman in
ancient India was said
to be endowed with
thick thighs and broad
lips, balanced by a
slender waist and
heavy breasts. Her
lips, the tips of her
Mughal Empire Beauty fingers and toes, and
the palms and soles of
her feet were tinted
with red lacquer. Every
effort was made to
enhance her beauty.
Her physical
characteristics were
emphasized as they
were linked to notions
of love, passion and
sexuality.”
—K.L. Kamat
19th Century Indian Beauty Pramila, first Miss India, 1947

SOUTH ASIA THEN

 Beauty is
becoming…
•  Fair
•  Slender
•  Wide-eyed
•  Lush
Kareena Kapoor
•  Youthful

Bipasha Basu Deepika Padukone

SOUTH ASIA NOW

Sensuality, elegance and femininity are the
important traits underlying beauty in India.
There’s still a very traditional aspect to beauty
here — so large eyes and long hair are a must…
and Indians are also obsessed with fair skin. In
terms of body, voluptuousness is still preferred
to the athletic or muscular look, but there is an
increasing emphasis on toning and fitness. If
there’s a perfect look, it’s a mix of the exotic (fair
skin, light eyes) and familiar (long hair,
traditional attire).
—Anindita Sengupta, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, India
 Beauty was…
“A man isn’t a dog —
he doesn’t pounce on
bones.”
— Russian saying
“The Russian fairy-tale
standard of beauty is
krov' s molokom —
Maria Louphina Gagarin sister ‘blood with milk’: skin
white as snow, ruby red
lips, hair dark as a
raven's wing.”
—AlexanderPalace.org

“The eyes! Russian

women have eyes
different from anyone
else’s. British, American
women — they give you
an empty stare.”
— Oleg Tinkov
Yekaterina Heidenreich “Woman of the City”

EASTERN EUROPE THEN

 Beauty is
becoming…
•  Athletic
•  Blonde
•  Slender
•  Sculpted
Politician Alina Kabayeva Model Eugenia Kuzmina •  Fresh

Model Natalia Vodianova Model Sasha Pivovarova

EASTERN EUROPE NOW

The current ideal female beauty in Russia is
associated with natural grace, refined facial
features, a fit body and an essential sensuality.
This ideal is also linked to ‘internal beauty’ which
can be interpreted as psychological harmony
and a sense of self-confidence. ‘Looking natural’
is preferable, but makeup (sometimes excessive
amounts) is often seen as ‘required.’
—Anna Coppola, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Russia
 Beauty was…
“The woman Botticelli
painted was the
personification of beauty
as he perceived it: Perfect
alabaster skin, symmetrical
features, high forehead,
sharply defined chin, pale
skin, strawberry blond hair,
high delicate eyebrows,
19th C. Young Lady
strong nose, narrow mouth
and full lips. She has a
confident but delicate
manner. Her body is
clothed, but the diaphanous
and sumptuous gown
covers a full figure with an
ample bosom, rounded
abdomen and wide hips.”
— Neil Haughton,
“Perceptions of Beauty in
Renaissance Art”
1778, Countess Harrington Botticelli’s Venus, 1485

WESTERN EUROPE THEN

 Beauty is
becoming…
•  Mature
•  Fit
•  Classic
•  Confident
Model Laetitia Casta Model Heidi Klum •  Sexy

Actress Kate Beckinsale Actress Monica Bellucci

WESTERN EUROPE NOW

The French go for classical beauty with a twist. Laetitia Casta is
considered exceptionally beautiful for a woman in her 40s — hers
is really an eternal look for France. But the French aren't as
focused on 'natural' appearances. Being properly made up and
groomed is important — as is being thin. People admire self-
discipline in personal care here.
—Lindsay Paterson, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, France

The standard image of beauty in Germany is much like that found

in the rest of Northern Europe. In that sense, it's rather familiar
and uniform: Blonde, tall and thin. Exotic looks are not
particularly prized in Germany — indeed, there's still a very
homogenous feel to the culture here, and non-white individuals
are rarely seen on television or in the media, especially print.
—Edward Velasco, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Germany

In the U.K., we're currently into a twist on the 'English rose' ideal
— pale but interesting, conventionally pretty but with a hint of the
exotic, otherworldly and elfin in their facial features. Our beauties
now are a bit ambiguous, a little androgynous, untouchable one
minute and the approachable girl-next-door the next.
—Kelly Stevens, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, U.K.
 Beauty was…
“Although Latin women
present anatomical
diversity, depending on
the area of Central and
South America they
come from, [traditional]
standards include a
19th Century Brazil voluptuous, guitar-
shaped body, olive skin
and dark hair. Unlike
other ethnic groups,
they don't want to attain
the ‘perfect Barbie-doll’
look, but to look young
and sexy at any age.
They will always strive
to age gracefully and
radiate sensuality.”
—NewImage.com
Argentina 1950s Martha Rocha, Miss Brazil 1954

LATIN AMERICA THEN

 Beauty is
becoming…
•  Fit
•  Thin
•  Blonde
Jimena Navarrete, Mexico •  Fair
Miss Universe 2010 •  Enhanced

Daniela Urzi, Argentina Gisele Bundchen, Brazil

LATIN AMERICA NOW

Beauty for Argentines means being born attractive. Artificial
beauty in general is not prized as much as elsewhere in Latin
America. There's been a number of shifts in the past half century,
similar to in the West, from curvy and natural to skinny and pale
and androgynous to healthy, fit bodies, preferably with a tan.
That said, being thin is a highly prized here — it's an obsession.
—Paula Alvarado, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Argentina
Beauty in Brazil is about vitality, sensuality — and being very
thin, but still having curves where they're needed. Truthfully, we
have a tendency to want to be what we're not: Though most of us
are dark eyed, dark haired and darker skinned, blond, blue-eyed
and straight-haired women are seen as the most beautiful. For
many women, the attitude is, if you don't have it, fake it.
—Juliana Bessa, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, Brazil

Mexico a diverse population, and our standard of beauty follows

suit. Light-colored eyes and fair skin are prized, but there are
plenty of beauties who are dark-haired and dark-eyed as well.
Curves are appreciated, and reinforced by what women wear;
ultimately, feminine beauty here is about sensuality. it's not just
what you have, but what you do with it that matters. —Kelly
Stevens, Iconoculture Cultural Fluent, U.K.
THE THREE FUNCTIONAL NEED STATES
WESTERN EUROPE
Agenda

•  Who we are
•  The big picture
•  Looking ahead
•  Where to go next
Using trends and adjacencies for foresight
Game Changers
The big shifts shaping our world.

•  SOCIAL

•  TECHNOLOGICAL

•  ECONOMIC

•  ENVIRONMENTAL

•  POLITICAL
Inexorably aging populations are reshaping the social,
technological, economic and political realities of markets in
North America, Europe and East Asia.
from church steeple to minaret

1950 1980 2010 2040

28.6 31.9 40.0 46.0
How is the “great grey shift” changing notions of beauty and
personal care needs and preferences — and how will the age
gap change relationships between the developed and
developing world?

SOCIAL: Agequake
TREND: The Singularity Boom
Rising divorce rates coupled with a widespread delay in or
outright rejection of — marriage in favor of career and personal
goals mean a spike in the global demographic of “Just Ones”
OBSERVATION: The New Girl Order
As recently as the ’80s, the dominant image of the Japanese woman was of the
housewife, or sengyoshufu; now it’s the arasa, the fashionable, sophisticated single
in her 30s, embracing the life of the otona-gyaru (grown-up gal).
In 1960, 70% of American 25-year-old women
were married with children; in 2000, only 25%
of them were. In 1970, just 7.4% of all
American 30- to 34-year-olds were
unmarried; today, the number is 22%.
That change took about a generation to
unfold, but in Asia and Eastern Europe the
transformation has been much more abrupt.
In South Korea, 40% of 30-year-olds are
single, compared with 14% only 20 years
ago.
Implications for Elizabeth Arden
•  As more women delay marriage, there’s been a greater incentive
to stretch not youth, but “youthfulness” — vitality, confidence,
even girlish whimsy — later into life. Today’s thirtysomething,
fortysomething and even fiftysomething New Girls are
adventurous, sophisticated and maybe a little riskier than they
were in their first girlhood, so take that into account in the color
and fragrance needs.
•  In fact, chronological aging and psychological aging are
diverging more and more. Update the “anti-aging” movement
with a future-oriented message that benchmarks today rather
than yesterday, setting women up for success as they age.
As media consumption, creation and distribution atomizes
and becomes increasingly personal…

…the balance of power in media is swinging dramatically

and permanently in the direction of the consumer

TECHNOLOGICAL: WeMedia
TREND: Magic Mirrors
Mirror mirror, on the wall, who’s the fairest of them all? Mirror mirror, in the hand,
who’s the fairest in the land? Technological revolutions plus are giving consumers a
new way to see themselves at their best
OBSERVATION: Shiseido’s Augmented Makeovers
Shiseido’s augmented-reality beauty kiosks have been a huge hit in Japan, and now
have been installed in over 30 locations. A mobile phone version is coming soon.
OBSERVATION: iTry Before iBuy
OPI’s nail color sampling app; iStylist; ModiFace’s Skin Match app
Implications for Elizabeth Arden
•  These days consumers see their phones as an extension of
their bodies. Empower them to use their mobile platforms to
optimize their mobile mes. How about an app that provides
personalized color, fragrance and skin consultation — taking
into account their baseline appearance and desired look, along
with variables like time of day, climate, purchasing power, and
location?
•  Even better, let consumers go social with the app by
incorporating picture-taking and location-based check-ins.
“This is where I am, and this is how I look today” could be the
seed of a powerful platform for consumers to share and express
beauty preferences and habits with friends and loved ones.
Globally, women control nearly $12 trillion of the $18 trillion
total overall consumer spending, a figure predicted to rise to
$15 trillion by 2014. In developing nations, women's earned
income is growing at 8.1%, compared to 5.8% for men.

The majority of tertiary degrees are now being awarded to

women. Highly qualified, well-educated and ambitious, these
women are taking over the talent pool from Delhi to Dubai.

ECONOMIC: Womanomics
TREND: Experiential Luxury
With “masstige” brands filling closets and shelves, independent and empowered
women are pushing the meaning of luxe — focusing on unique, memory-making,
braggable options over keeping up with Miss Jones.
OBSERVATION: Vinotherapy spas raise spirits
Wine isn't just for drinking anymore. European spas offering vinotherapy — using
grape juice and polyphenols extracted from grape seeds — are booming by offering
pairings of sip and soak.
OBSERVATION: Bollycare
Indian celebrities are capitalizing on their popularity by getting into the salon and
fitness biz. In mid-2009, Bollywood star Shilpa Shetty opened a chain of medi-spas
around Mumbai called Iosis.
Implications for Elizabeth Arden
•  More and more women aren’t just professsionals — they’re
entrepreneurs. Support women-owned businesses with
complementary makeovers, sample products…and maybe even
funding for new business ideas.
•  Sponsor sharing circles for female executives to connect and
build networks — New Girls to combat the Old Boys.
•  Embrace self-empowering woman as a cause. Create a line that
transparently uses woman-owned suppliers in emerging
markets for ingredients, donates a portion of profits to women’s
support causes and actively educates, informs and celebrates
the rising power of independent working women.
Beset by natural disasters, geopolitical tensions, unstable
regimes, economic fragility, and environmental degradation

Consumers are feeling less certain of the future

(and less willing to trust the present) than ever before

ENVIRONMENTAL: Social Insecurity

TREND: The New Austerity
New Austerity consumers are doing what comes naturally in a time of scarcity:
cutting back, streamlining their lives, and adjusting their goals and priorities to
reflect lower incomes or greater uncertainty.
OBSERVATION: Turkish women trade down to local
Despite a weak economy, women in Turkey haven’t given up “affordable luxuries.”
They’re simply opting for cheaper mass brands over imported goods. Capitalizing on
this trend are local firms like Sevil, Evyap and Kopas Kozmetik.
OBSERVATION: Mori Girls
“Girls of the Forest” are pushing gothic lolitas out of Harajuku — with
earth tones, simple makeup (or none at all), and layered, unstructured
outfits that emphasize comfort and convenience over glam
Implications for Elizabeth Arden

•  Reinforce the notion that “green equals green” — find ways to

help consumers streamline, cut waste and cut costs, saving
money while also saving the earth. Refillable dispensers, low-
impact packaging, right-sized portions all might make the cut.
Or follow the lead of supermarkets and create a stylish and
sustainable makeup bag that customers can bring back and
refill rather than getting new plastic each time they visit.
•  Underscore simplicity in your products. The desire to cut back
on expenses is tied to larger value shifts around personal
streamlining. For those who want to reduce both time and cost,
offer a stripped-down, lightweight beauty regimen that delivers
quality and results in fewer steps, without extra effort and
expense.
The balance of political, cultural and economic influence is
moving from unitary sources (“superpowers”) to networks,
clusters and dynamically organized coalitions.

What does this mean for America, which until recently was
being spoken about as the sole remaining “ultrapower”?

POLITICAL: The Centerless World

TREND: Roots Rejuvenated
Globalization is updating consumer tastes, yet many of the
products that are truly connecting with consumers are reminiscent
of traditional culture, folkloric customs and local tastes and flavors.
OBSERVATION: Personal Care from the Past
Even as TCM and ayurveda thrive in China and India, Mexicans are turning to balms
from the tepezcohuite plant for pain relief, while Argentineans are rediscovering the
power of yerba mate in spa treatments and even perfumes
OBSERVATION: Transformed Tradition
More local brands are seeking to use old-school principles to create modern beauty
regimens. Himalaya Herbal has boomed with its ready-to-use ayurvedic care line,
while China’s Herborist brand has done much the same with TCM.
Implications for Elizabeth Arden
•  For in-market consumers, taking a Roots Rejuvenated cue and
incorporating indigenous ingredients provides comfortable
familiarity and a sense of local belonging and investment; for
consumers across borders, it can offer exotic appeal
•  Remember that reaching back to the folkloric isn’t just about
what goes in the product. It’s also about how it’s packaged,
positioned, distributed and applied. Think of ways to
incorporate traditional packaging and sales channels, as well as
ritual elements that enhance the experiential element of a
culturally distinctive offering.
Agenda

•  Who we are
•  The big picture
•  Looking ahead
•  Where to go next
Elizabeth Arden Key Questions
•  Defining beauty (skin care) today: How do (midlifer) women
around the world perceive and define beauty today? What are some
of the values and motivators driving their beauty/skin care goals?
•  Cultural context: What are some of cultural tenets of beauty in
different markets? How is this evolving, if at all?
•  Compare and contrast across markets: What are the similarities
and differences across markets, with regards to how beauty is being
defined and pursued?
•  Best Practices among target market: What are some of the
products, brands, celebrities that women are embracing, aspiring…
in order to achieve their beauty goal/s? What is working / what isn’t?
•  Trends and Implications: Global beauty trends and what this may
mean for Elizabeth Arden.
An Extension of Your Team
We can help you:
• Get smart fast: Rich, rapid-response overviews of a demo,
category or phenomenon
• Identify risks and opportunities: Assessment of the cultural,
market and competitive landscape
• Explore adjacencies: Understanding of business areas,
target audiences and geographic regions related to yours
• Learn best practices: Successful examples in your space
• Validate strategy: Analysis and optimization of branding,
positioning and new product plans
• Brainstorm and innovate: Identification of white space,
consumer-driven ideation, forward-leaning projection
IconoIQ Global
Searchable source of
real-time insights, rich
media and syndicated
reports covering
Iconoculture’s full
range of categories,
demographic segments
and geographic
markets
DIY exploration or
research request
fulfilled by CSM
Turnaround:
Instant / 1 day
Global Advisory
Strategists create an
advisory brief —
insights supported by
trends, observations,
data points and market
facts already in our
insights database
Briefs typically run 3-6
pages and serve as
backdrop and takeaway
for an interactive one-
hour discussion.
Turnaround: 5 days
Quick Pulses

Strategists work with you to

develop a research guide that is
then distributed to Cultural
Fluents across up to five markets
to obtain targeted insights,
observations, and media
The results of their investigation
is delivered in a 5-7 page report
and presented in an interactive
one-hour discussion.
Turnaround: 10-14 days
Custom Inquiries
Strategists work with you to
develop a research guide that is
then distributed to Cultural
Fluents across up to five markets
with instructions to conduct
primary observational research,
which may include consumer and
expert interviews, home visits,
retail walkthroughs and other
observational excursions
The results of their investigation
is delivered in a 15-25 page report
and presented in an interactive
one-hour discussion.
Turnaround: 4-6 weeks
 Deliverables
Global What it means for you What do I get?
Deliverable

IconoIQ 24/7-everything access to Global View’s Observation articles: across categories

lifestyle monitor and demographics

Global Top-level look at key trends Broad: Interactive discussion, translation of

Advisory specific IconoIQ data such as “How are
consumers spending their free time? What
are top trends in Leisure?”

Quick Pulse Urgent “fill in the blanks” for a current Specific but not deep: “Examples of
project brands in the apparel category that Chinese
consumers typically associate with status
and luxury.”

Custom Deep-dive into specific consumer
Inquiries questions, excellent for compare and
contrast across markets
Consulting Deep-dive into specific projects: NPD,
affirmation of strategy
Specific and deep: “What are some of the
hygiene and bathing cultures among
women in BRIC markets?”
Lifestyle Persona projects, Matrices, open
to scope

On-site Strategist interaction for a day, Consumer One or two strategists presenting (on-site)
Consumer day immersion, BU engagement and customized content as scoped.
Outlooks inspiration
Success Story: Food for Thought
Global View Advantage: Global Contrasts
Challenge: The company, the world’s largest game and toy company, was looking to take
a largely U.S.-based brand focused on cooking and food-related play and bring it to
global audiences. They wanted to better understand global food culture and culinary
trends for parents and children, with a particular focus on the preservation of traditions
and fostering intergenerational connections.

The Global View Solution:

A global advisory call featuring strategists with
expertise in parents, food / beverage and toys / gaming
Iconoculture strategists prepared a brief that identified
key trends shaping food culture and culinary play for
kids in representative markets around the world, then
engaged in a highly interactive conversation with the
client’s global brand management team around those
trends, illustrating critical taboos and opportunities
Success Story: Checking Connection
Global View Advantage: Strategic Validation
Challenge: A global leader in consumer technology was preparing for a large-scale
survey of youth and young adult mobile computer users and wanted to ensure that their
direction of investigation was relevant to consumers in the fast-moving emerging
markets of Asia and Latin America. Due to the size and scale of the study, they needed
response faster than they could obtain using traditional qualitative means.

The Global View Solution:

A quick pulse covering five key markets.
Iconoculture connected with Fluents and observers
in key emerging markets in the regions of greatest
concern to the client, and reviewed the trends the
client intended to explore. In the course of the
investigation, Fluents identified critical trends that
had been overlooked in initial analysis, and
language used in certain questions that could lead
to ambiguous results.

Left: Flickr.com/photos/luschei image; right: Flickr.com/photos/nathancolquhoun image

Success Story: Designing for Growth
Global View Advantage: Deep Context
Challenge: The client, a leader in automobile interior design, had conducted a
quantitative study on projected automobile growth by country that pointed to the
opportunity in emerging markets. But in order to design better car interiors for the
global consumer, the company needed sociocultural context: the different ways
consumers in those countries get around, how they use their vehicles and, most
importantly, what the car signifies for them.

The Global View Solution:

A custom inquiry covering five key markets.
By identifying key cultural traits and emerging
trends in the transportation category, the client
was able to get a handle on the unique needs,
wants and desires of the car owner in these
markets, and to visualize the optimal solutions for
their demographic targets.
Draft Investigative Roadmap
1 2 3

STEEP FACTORS AGEQUAKE THE NEW AUSTERITY CENTERLESS WORLD

Macrotrends

Consumer Roots Tradition

The
Trends and New Girl The New
Singularity Mori Girls Rejuve- Trans-
Observations Order Austerity
Boom nated fomred

simplicity legacy discovery

Underlying choice self-sufficiency thrift
Consumer Values empowerment sustainability identity heritage

Potential Areas for TBD TBD TBD

Inquiry

Impact on
Business Areas • TBD • TBD • TBD