MAT-XS™ Clinical

Skin perfector
Smooth texture, clear,
shine-free skin…

Difficult to reach such an objective when there is an excess of sebum. Shine caused by the
overabundant production of sebum, which photographers and photo engravers always correct
using make-up and touch ups, hinders our image of beautiful skin. Moreover, with age, open
pores and an oily sheen dulls the complexion and accentuates signs of aging.

Although there are numerous product lines on the market for oily skin, very few are visibly
effective. Hormonally regulated through a testosterone derivative called dihydrotestosterone
(DHT*), sebum secretion is quite difficult to physiologically control using cosmetic products.
The majority of active ingredients that are currently found on the market inhibit 5a-reductase
(an enzyme that converts testosterone into DHT) such as zinc salts and azelaic acid, some
of which also boast anti-inflammatory action, as well as exfoliating products, of which the
most famous and widely used is salicylic acid. Although salicylic acid is extremely effective in
refining the skin’s texture and evening out the complexion, it is not very effective in eliminating
shine. Moreover, the legal concentration allowed is limited in Asia, which leads to unsatisfactory
results.

The most effective means for regulating sebum production is by inhibiting 5a-reductase.
However, why are the active ingredients that have been used up until now rather ineffective?
We believe that first of all, this enzyme is difficult to reach, because in general, the percentages
of inhibition that are obtained are moderate and rarely exceed 30%.
Also, there are several different types of 5a-reductase, and no product has really targeted the
type that is specific to the skin. We targeted this 5a-reductase type I, specifique for the skin.
Moreover, we have demonstrated for the first time that the enzyme inhibition conducted to the
inhibition of the conversion testosterone into DHT, though conducting to an intense reduction
of sebum production.

MAT-XS™ clinical** has shown clinical efficacies rarely reached before.

*DiHydroTestosterone
 MAT-XS clinical, ™
reduces all signs of oily skin
in 28 days

MAT-XS™ clinical** is a synthetic molecule called Sarcosine, which is a powerful inhibitor of

5a-reductase type I.
We conducted an extensive clinical study on 2 panels (one Caucasian and one Asian) of 90
volunteers, versus a positive benchmark: zinc gluconate. Although it is difficult to identify the
physiological differences between these 2 categories, it is widely recognized that Asians tend to
have oilier skin than Caucasians. Even though the climatic conditions are partially responsible,
the cultural aspect is preponderant. Having shiny skin in Asia has a stronger impact on an
individual’s self image than it does in the West, which is why the oily skincare market is
extremely buoyant in this part of the world.
We obtained very good results on both panels, superior to those obtained using zinc gluconate.
The effectiveness of MAT-XS™ clinical is visible in helping decreasing shine and refining the
skin’s texture. On the Asian panel, we even obtained results in diminishing shine after only 2
weeks.

After 4 weeks of product application, all signs of oily skin significantly diminished, the pores were
tighter and there was a decrease in unsightly shine. The panelists noted that their complexions
were more even.

** Also see MAT-XS™ Bright, which turns shine into brightness.

Properties
Inhibits 5a-reductase type 1
Reduces the production of sebum and imperfections
linked to hyperseborrhea

Origin
Synthetic Sarcosine

Skincare
Matifying skin perfecting treatments
Serums that refine the skin’s texture
Matifying treatments for oily skin
 Caucasian skin

Reduces all signs of oily skin in only 4 weeks

The pores are visibly tightened
Before
***
+20.5%
**
Clinical score D28 vs D0

+17.5%
Clinical
evaluation

Zinc MAT-XS™
gluconate 1% clinical 2%
*** significant difference vs. D0 (p<0.001)
** significant difference vs. D0 (p<0.01)

After 4 weeks
Clinical study
Conducted on 50 Caucasian volunteers and 40 Asian
volunteers
over a 4 week period, application on the whole face,
1 group applied MAT-XS ™ Clinical (2%) twice a day,
1 group applied zinc gluconate (1%) twice a day,
Evaluation of the panelists’ skin by a clinician on Mat-XS™ clinical 2%
Day 1 and after 4 weeks of product application in
France, on Day 1 and after 2 and 4 weeks of product
application as well as an assessment of quickness of
re-greasing after 2 days treatment stops in Asia.

Skincare benefits noted by the panelists

After 28 days
The skin is less oily The complexion is more even The skin does not «re-grease»
as quickly
* *
Frequency of positive answers

Frequency of positive answers

Frequency of positive answers

96% * 96%
* 88%
80% *
64% 72%

Zinc MAT-XS™ Zinc MAT-XS™ Zinc MAT-XS™

gluconate 1% clinical 2% gluconate 1% clinical 2% gluconate 1% clinical 2%
* frequency of positive answers p<0.05 * frequency of positive answers p<0.05 * frequency of positive answers p<0.05
 Asian skin

D0 D14 D28 D30 2 days after treatment

MAT-XS™ clinical 2 %

A decrease in shine after 2 weeks A decrease in sebum secretion

Zinc gluconate 1% MAT-XS™ clinical 2% Zinc gluconate MAT-XS™
14 days 28 days 30 days 14 days 28 days 30 days 1% clinical 2%
+5%
30 days
D14, 28, 30 vs D0

Variation Dn/D0 (%)

-3.8%
Clinical score

-13% -4%
*
Clinical
evaluation -26% -14.6%
*** -32% -31% Sebutape
*** ***
*** significant difference vs. D0 (p<0.001)
* significant difference vs. D0 (p<0.05)

The pores are visibly tightened

*** *** ***
+21% +18% +20%
D14, 28, 30 vs D0
Clinical score

* Clinical
+8% -3% evaluation

14 days 28 days 30 days 14 days 28 days 30 days

Zinc gluconate 1% MAT-XS™ clinical 2%
*** significant difference vs. D0 (p<0.001)
* significant difference vs. D0 (p<0.05)

After 28 days After 30 days

(2 days after treatment)

The skin is less shiny The skin does not «re-grease» The pores are tightened
as quickly
* *
Frequency of positive answers
Frequency of positive answers

86% 86%
Frequency of positive answers

* * *
71% 71% 71%
52%

Zinc MAT-XS™ Zinc MAT-XS™ Zinc MAT-XS™

gluconate 1% clinical 2% gluconate 1% clinical 2% gluconate 1% clinical 2%
* frequency of positive answers p<0.05 * frequency of positive answers p<0.05 * frequency of positive answers p<0.05
MAT-XS™ Clinical
Inhibits 5a-reductase type I for
optimal effectiveness

The inhibition of 5a-reductase type I is the only

one that specifically targets sebum secretion
Sebum production

Sebaceous gland

testosterone
DHT

5a-reductase I

DHT receptor
(dihydrotestosterone)

testosterone

5a-reductase I

MAT-XS™ clinical
Inhibits 5a-reductase type I
Greatly diminishes the expression Inhibits the Testosterone-DHT
of the 5a-reductase gene conversion
expression vs. an untreated control

Human skin
Zinc gluconate MAT-XS™ -19%
5a-reductase type I mRNA

explants

vs. an untreated control

Percentage of variation of

Percentage of DHT I
0.4x10-3% clinical 0.01% *
-36%

-58%
-70% MAT-XS™
Untreated Zinc gluconate
RT-PCR control 1% clinical 2%

Diminishes the production of squalene,

a component of sebum * statistically different from untreated control (p<0.05)

In vitro On volunteer
Human skin
explants
Zinc MAT-XS™
Percentage of squalene

Lipid sensitive
(% untreated control)

gluconate 1% clinical 2%
Squalene synthesis

variation D28 vs D0

adhesive patches

* ** -14%
-34% -35% ** -19%
**

Untreated Zinc MAT-XS™

control gluconate 1% clinical 2%
*** statistically different from untreated control (p<0.001) ** statistically different from D0 (p<0.01)
* statistically different from untreated control (p<0.05)

Summary file
REF 0.0 - 1.0
A00098 Sarcosin content by HPLC 0.4 - 0.6
Aspect Transparent liquid
DESCRIPTION Color Clear
Synthetic sarcosine Odor Characteristic
pH (Direct) 6.0 - 7.0
REGULATORY DATA Viscosity (Brookfield RVDV-II+) (01;05) (200-2000) cps
INCI Water, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene glycol, Xanthan Gum, Aerobic bacteria (30°C) < or = 100/g
Sarcosine. Pathogens None
Japanese Cosmetic Denomination Mizu (1370), BG
(100040), Penchiren Gurikoru (532168), Kisantangamu FORMULATION DATA
(109058), Sarukoshinn (557359). Concentration of use
CAS# 7732-18-5, 107-88-0, 5343-92-0, 11138-66-2, 0.5 to 3%
107-97-1.
EINECS# 231-791-2, 203-529-7, 226-285-3, 234-394- Incorporation method
2, 203-538-6. Add at the end of the formulation at 30°C.

PRELIMINARY SPECIFICATIONS (ACOT102B)

Dry weight (15 hours, 105°C) 0.5 - 5.0
Total Inorganic Matter Content (15 hours, 600°C)
EUROPE
BASF Beauty Creations
49, avenue Georges Pompidou
92593 Levallois-Perret Cedex
France
Tel: +33 (0) 1.49.64.53.97
Fax: +33 (0) 1.49.64.53.85
bcs-europe@basf.com

AMERICAS
Beauty Creations
BASF Corporation
50 Health Sciences Drive
Stony Brook, NY 11790
USA
Tel: +1 (631) 380 2300
Fax: +1 (631) 689 2904
bcs-nafta@basf.com

JAPAN & ASIA-PACIFIC

BASF Japan Ltd.
21F Roppongi Hills Mori Tower,
6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku,
Tokyo, 106-6121
JAPAN
Tel: +81 (0) 3-3796-9214
Fax: +81 (0) 3-3796-9299
bcs-asia@basf.com

Edition May 16, 2012

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are believed to be accurate and reliable, they are presented
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