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smithsonian

fashion
THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE
FASHION
FASHION
THE DEFINITIVE HISTORY OF COSTUME AND STYLE
LONDON, NEW YORK, MELBOURNE,
MUNICH, AND DELHI
DORLING KINDERSLEY
Senior Editor Kathryn Hennessy
Senior Art Editor Gadi Farfour
Project Art Editor Amy Orsborne
Editors Anna Fischel, Ann Baggaley, Scarlett O’Hara,
Alison Sturgeon, Camilla Gersh, Ashwin Khurana
Designers Paul Drislane, Kirsty Tizzard
Art Worker Philip Fitzgerald
Glossary Illustrator Katie John
Editorial Assistants Alexandra Beeden, Damilare Olugbode
Photographers Gary Ombler, Paul Self
Picture Researchers Liz Moore, Sarah Smithies
DK Picture Library Claire Bowers, Emma Shepherd, Claire Cordier CHAPTER 1
Database Rob Laidler, David Roberts
Jacket Designer Mark Cavanagh
US Senior Editor Shannon Beatty PREHISTORY– 600CE
US Editor Jane Perlmutter
US Consultant Carol Pelletier
Production Editor Ben Marcus
Repro Opus Multimedia Services, Delhi
Producer Sophie Argyris
THE ANCIENT
Managing Editor Esther Ripley
Managing Art Editor Karen Self
Publisher Laura Buller
WORLD
Art Director Phil Ormerod Time line 12–13
Associate Publishing Director Liz Wheeler
Publishing Director Jonathan Metcalf From Function to Identity 14–15
DK INDIA Ancient Egypt 16–17
Senior Art Editors Anjana Nair, Chhaya Sajwan Profile: Queen Nefertiti 18–19
Art Editors Neha Sharma, Nidhi Mehra, Supriya Mahajan, and Shipra Jain
Assistant Art Editors Vidit Vashisht, Namita, Niyati Gosain, Minoan Culture 20–21
and Payal Rosalind Malik
Design Managers Arunesh Talapatra and Sudakshina Basu
Ladies in Blue 22–23
Senior Editors Garima Sharma, Sreshtha Bhattacharya Classical Greece 24–25
Editor Roma Malik
Assistant Editors Archana Ramachandran Fluid Drapery 26–27
Editorial Manager Pakshalika Jayaprakash Prowess and Protection 28–29
DTP Designers Nand Kishor Acharya, Mohammad Usman, Dheeraj Arora, and Anita Yadav
DTP Manager Balwant Singh Style in the East 30–31
Production Manager Pankaj Sharma
Etruscans 32–33
Picture Research Nivisha Sinha and Sakshi Saluja
Roman Empire 34–35
Byzantine Style 36–37
Dyes and Pigments 38–39
Smithsonian In Detail: Short Tunic and Peplos 40–41
Smithsonian Project Coordinator Ellen Nanney Style
First American Edition, 2012
Published in the United States by
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CHAPTER 2 CHAPTER 3 CHAPTER 4
600 –1449 1450 –1624 1625 –1789

MEDIEVAL RENAISSANCE BAROQUE AND


ROMANCE SPLENDOR ROCOCO
AND TRADE Time line
The Fashion Split
78–79
80–81
Time line
Men in Lace
116–117
118–119
Time line 44–45 Rich Panoply 82–83 Softer Silhouettes 120–121
The Age of Migrations 46–47 Renaissance Men 84–85 Doublet and Breeches 122–123
The Early Middle Ages 48–49 From Drape to Shape 86–87 Taffeta and Lace 124–125
Trends in Tunics 50–51 New Men in a New World 88–89 Profile: Henrietta Maria 126–127
Courtly Love and Crusades 52–53 In Detail: Saxony Ensemble 90–91 Puritan Influence 128–129
Profile: Eleanor of Aquitaine 54–55 Custom-made Armor 92–93 Opulence Restored 130–131
Priests and the People 56–57 Elegant Formality 94–95 Boned Bodice to Mantua 132–133
The East in the West 58–59 Profile: Elizabeth I 96–97 Fashion Restored 134–135
Social Statements 60–61 Female Geometry 98–99 Toward the Suit 136–137
In Detail: Cote-hardie 62–63 A New Suit 100–101 Mantuas and Petticoats 138–139
Fitting to the Body 64–65 Frivolity at Court 102–103 In Detail: Embroidered Mantua 140–141
Trailing Elegance 66–67 Male Extravagance 104–105 Mantuas and Open Robes 142–143
Knights in Armor 68–69 Trading in Treasures 106–107 In Detail: Sack Back Dress 144–145
In Detail: Doublet and Hose 70–71 Symbolism and Fantasy 108–109 French à la Mode 146–147
Regional Flair 72–73 Practical Clothing 110–111 Profile: Marie-Antoinette 148–149
Novelty and Luxury 74–75 Ottoman Finery 112–113 Baroque to Neoclassical 150–151
Macaroni to Dandy 152–153
In Detail: Streamlined Court Suit 154–155
Simpler Styling 156–157
Masquerade 158–159
Turkish Delight 160–161
Sports Dress 162–163

CONTENTS
CHAPTER 5 CHAPTER 6 CHAPTER 7
1790 –1900 1901–1928 1929 –1946

FROM LA BELLE FROM


REVOLUTION EPOQUE AND GLAMOUR
TO FRIVOLITY THE JAZZ AGE TO UTILITY
Time line 166–167 Time line 222–223 Time line 270–271
Neoclassicism 168–169 Suits for City Gentlemen 224–225 Austere Times 272–273
Empire Lines 170–171 Sport and Country 226–227 Shimmering Gowns 274–275
Regency Society 172–173 Simpler Silhouettes 228–229 Classicism 276–277
Regency Belles 174–175 Women in Action 230–231 Living Sculptures 278–279
In Detail: Regency Pelisse 176–177 Evening and Tea Gowns 232–233 Pared Down and Sporty 280–281
Delighting in the Detail 178–179 A Life of Leisure 234–235 Relaxing the Rules 282–283
The Evening Hourglass 180–181 Antifashion 236–237 In Detail: Plus Fours Suit 284–285
Profile: Beau Brummell 182–183 Wartime Women 238–239 Profile: Edward VIII 286–287
The Rise of the Dandy 184–185 Toward the New Woman 240–241 The Elegant Male 288–289
Regency Sportswear 186–187 Profile: Paul Poiret 242–243 Berliner Chic 290–291
Prints and Patterns 188–189 Orientalism 244–245 Romantic Nostalgia 292–293
Turbans and Tight Lacing 190–191 Robes de Style 246–247 Dream Dresses 294–295
Demure Day Dresses 192–193 Profile: Coco Chanel 248–249 Profile: Schiaparelli 296–297
Imperial Opulence 194–195 The New Knitwear 250–251 Women in Wartime 298–299
Crinolines 196–197 Rising Hems 252–253 In Detail: Women’s Legion 300–301
Profile: Charles Worth 198–199 Into the Jazz Age 254–255 Menswear on Civvy Street 302–303
Soft Bustles and Fishtails 200–201 Roaring Twenties 256–257 Fashion on Ration 304–305
In Detail: Bustle Skirt 202–203 In Detail: Dance Dress 258–259 Styled by Hollywood 306–307
The Rise and Fall of the Bustle 204–205 At the Beach 260–261 American Ready-to-Wear 308–309
High Ruffs and Wasp Waists 206–207 Setting Standards 262–263 Competitive Couture 310–311
In Detail: Reception Dress 208–209 Suits for All 264–265
Formal Wear for Men 210–211 Modernism 266–267
Cult of Beauty 212–213
Sportswear for the New Woman 214–215
Men of Action 216–217
Themed Costumes 218–219
CHAPTER 8 CHAPTER 9 CHAPTER 10
1947–1963 1964 –1979 1980 ONWARD

OPTIMISM SWINGING THE DESIGNER


AND YOUTH SIXTIES TO DECADES
Time line
The New Look
314–315
316–317
GLAM ROCK Time line
Fitness in Fashion
386–387
388–389
Time line 350–351
Profile: Christian Dior 318–319 Profile: Vivienne Westwood 390–391
Mini Magic 352–353
In Detail: Wedding Dress 320–321 Must-have Labels 392–393
Profile: Twiggy 354–355
The Cocktail Hour 322–323 Profile: Jean Paul Gaultier 394–395
Mini Coats and Skirts 356–357
Postwar Perfection 324–325 A Powerful Message 396–397
Anything Goes 358–359
Couture Gowns 326–327 In Detail: Power Suit 398–399
Into the Space Age 360–361
Profile: Balenciaga 328–329 Japanese Style 400–401
Evening Selection 362–363
Feminine Form 330–331 Profile: Comme des Garçons 402–403
Profile: Biba 364–365
A Good Coat 332–333 Street Style 404–405
Menswear Goes Pop 366–367
Wives and Mothers 334–335 Dance Culture and Club 406–407
The New Dandies 368–369
Resort Wear 336–337 Runway Superstars 408–409
Profile: Yves Saint Laurent 370–371
Casual and Polished 338–339 Minimal and Conceptual 410–411
Women Wear the Pants 372–373
Hipsters and Teddy Boys 340–341 Boho Chic and Vintage 412–413
Flower Power 374–375
The Youth Revolution 342–343 Global Impact 414–415
Long Printed Dresses 376–377
Birth of the Teenager 344–345 Red Carpet Gowns 416–417
In Detail: Jean Muir Classic 378–379
Sports Style 346–347 Profile: Alexander McQueen 418–419
Stylish Casuals 380–381
A New Generation 420–421
Stage, Dance, and Party 382–383

REFERENCE
Women’s Wear 422–423
Menswear 424–425
Women’s Shoes 426–427
Women’s Hats 428–429
Bags and Purses 430–431
Shaping the Body 432–433
Illustrated Glossary 434–463
Index and Acknowledgments 464–480
FOREWORD
Like art, music, and literature, fashion has its own rich history. While we associate “The main thing I love about street photography,” he says, “is that you find the
fashion with an almost relentless newness, it is also in a constant dialogue with its answers you don't see at the fashion shows. You find information for readers so
own past: just as Picasso reverently dissected Goya, Balenciaga examined the form they can visualize themselves.” (“Bill on Bill,” October 27, 2002). Whether an
of medieval religious vestments; and Mick Jagger channeled Beau Brummel in much individual act of style takes place in the design studio, behind the camera lens, or
the way that Prokofiev re-framed Haydn. at home in front of the mirror, it forms part of one of our culture’s oldest and most
participatory expressions, one which utterly shapes everyday human experience.
While fashion historians may assert that fashion began with the development of
fitted garments, and critics may argue that only a small number of wealthy
individuals truly participate in the fashion system, for most of us fashion conjures an
essential, perhaps innate, will to adorn and beautify our bodies, faces, and hair. Even
our early human representations, the prehistoric, so-called Venus figurines, wear Susan Brown
nonfunctional garments, string skirts that offered little protection or coverage. We Smithsonian consultant
see and are seen: we voraciously consume images of the human figure, inhabit Susan Brown is Associate Curator, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum,
or reject those images in our own self-presentation, and become ourselves the Smithsonian and most recently collaborated on the exhibition and catalog Color
subject of further image making. The sources of representation are punctuated Moves: Art and Fashion by Sonia Delaunay with Matilda McQuaid. She teaches in
by personalities—men and women of style, from royalty to rock stars, designers, the Masters Program in the History of Decorative Arts and Design offered by the
movie stars, and models, who epitomized “the look” of any given moment in time. Museum with Parsons The New School for Design, as well as lecturing regularly
Photographer Bill Cunningham’s weekly “On the Street” column in The New York for the Institute of Fine Arts at NYU. Prior to joining the Smithsonian, she designed
Times celebrates the complexity and exuberance of this complex visual reverberation. costumes for theater, opera, and television.
CONSULTANT AUTHORS Jackie Herald
The Ancient World
Ann Kay
Designer and fashion icon profiles
Jackie Herald studied at The Courtauld Institute of Art Ann Kay has authored or contributed to around 25
Beatrice Behlen
and is a former lecturer in fashion history at art colleges. books. She has an MA in art history and specializes
La Belle Epoque and the Jazz Age/From Glamour to Utility
in art, design, and cultural history.
Beatrice Behlen studied fashion design in Germany and
Jemima Klenk
the history of dress at the Courtauld Institute of Art.
In-house Consultant Sally Regan
Having lectured at art colleges and curated at Historical
Jemima Klenk has an MA in the history of dress Designer and fashion icon profiles
Royal Palaces, she is now Senior Curator of Fashion
from the Courtauld Institute of Art, London. Sally Regan has contributed to a number of Dorling
and Decorative Arts at the Museum of London.
Kindersley titles and is an award-winning documentary
Judith Watt filmmaker on a range of history subjects for the BBC,
Alison Carter
General Consultant Granada, and Channel Four.
From Revolution to Frivolity
Judith Watt is course director of the MA in fashion
Senior Keeper of Art and Design at Hampshire
journalism at Kingston University, and teaches Shelley Tobin
Museums for 25 years (1986–2011), Alison Carter
fashion history at Central St. Martin’s College Shelley Tobin is Curator at Killerton House, Devon, and
is the author of Underwear: the Fashion History and
of Art, London. assistant curator (Costume and Textiles) at Royal Albert
Chair of the Southern Counties Costume Society.
Memorial Museum and Art Gallery, Exeter.
Hilary Davidson
Medieval Romance and Trade/Renaissance Splendor WRITERS Heather Vaughan
Heather Vaughan is an author and editor of fashion
Hilary Davidson is Curator of Fashion and Decorative
history publications. She writes the blog Fashion
Arts at the Museum of London. She teaches, publishes, Alexandra Black
Historia and holds an MA in Visual Culture: Costume
and lectures on topics ranging from medieval dress to A contributor to Elle, Marie Claire, and Vogue Living,
Studies from New York University.
cultural theory. Alexandra Black is the author of Ski Style, Dusk Till
Dawn: a history of the evening dress, and The Party
Additional writing: Andrea Mills, Lorrie Mack,
Rosemary Harden Dress: a history of fashionable occasions.
Marcus Weeks, Katie John (glossary)
Baroque and Rococo/Optimism and Youth/Swinging
Sixties to Glam Rock/The Designer Decades Oriole Cullen
Rosemary Harden is the curator at the Fashion Museum Oriole Cullen is curator for Fashion and Textiles at the
in Bath, where she has organized many exhibitions, Victoria and Albert Museum, London, specializing in
including The Diana Dresses and Sport and Fashion. 20th- and 21st-century fashion.
THE
ANCIENT
WORLD
PREHISTORY–600CE
012 PREHISTORY–600 CE

THE ANCIENT
WORLD
T
he ancient world is a jigsaw of images and objects that
historians are trying to piece together. Paintings, sculpture, TO 10,000 BCE 10,000–4,000 BCE 4,000–3,500 BCE
artifacts, and scraps of clothing and jewelry all provide
clues as to how people lived and dressed. Many of the early
C. 500,000–100,000 BCE C. 10,000 BCE ▼ Egyptian sandals
civilizations reached impressive levels of development. Sophisticated The first clothing, the hides The earliest surviving shoes c.4000 BCE
technologies and craft skills coexisted in different corners of the of animals, are worn, are sandals discovered in a
sometimes tied on with cave in Oregon, woven from
world, as they still do today, and influenced each other as cultures beltlike strips of hide. tree bark, fashioned at least
met through war, exploration, and commercial exchange. Clothing 10,000 years ago.
▼ Stripped
and accessories—including protective armor and talismanic buffalo hide C. 10,000BCE
jewelry—were often produced to extremely high standards. Wool cloth starts with the
Fine linen was woven on the banks of the Nile in Egypt; sericulture domesticated sheep, bred for
soft wool as opposed to fur.
from China supplied the wider world with exquisite silks; the
Greeks and Romans created fantastic wool tapestries; and the
Etruscans crafted ornate, tooled metalwork. 7500–5700 BCE
Dyed textiles are in use in
Çatal Höyük, southern
Starting points Anatolia (present-day Turkey),
Many shapes and styles in dress date back thousands of as evidenced by traces of red
dye, possibly ocher, found at
years, having necessity, function, and the materials available the site. C. 4,000 BCE

as their starting points. For example, connecting two pieces These thonged leather
sandals, c. 6,000 years old,
of material to form a garment may once have meant no more are part of daily wear in
than using a simple fastening such as a pin or a few basic Ancient Egypt.
stitches, but from such crude beginnings wonderful pieces of
embroidery evolved, providing decoration and reinforcement at 7500–5700 BCE
the same time. Embroidery on traditional dress from, say, eastern Seals such as this one from
Europe or southwest China is often concentrated around the the settlement of Çatal
Höyük, Turkey, are used
neck, hem, shoulders, and wrist—the areas that are most visible during the Neolithic period to
and most subject to wear and tear. stamp decorative designs in
dye onto skin or cloth.
C. 40,000 BCE

Cycle of fashion People punch holes in skins


and furs, lacing them together.
If the clothes people wore in the distant past often look remarkably The earliest bone needle
modern and familiar, this is because of the way styles are continually dates to c. 30,000 BCE. ▶ Neolithic baked clay seal
revived and reinterpreted through cycles of history and waves of
fashion. Modern designers have borrowed again and again from the C.30,000 BCE
Cave painters use pigments
styles—and style icons—of the past. Numerous examples can be listed such as ocher, hematite, and
of fashions that have had their day and gone, only to reappear with charcoal to color their art,
and probably to decorate
a new spin: the elegant draperies of classical Greek and Roman their own bodies too.
goddesses; Ancient Egypt’s massive jewelry and the kohl-eyed,
black-bobbed “Cleopatra look”; Chinese and Japanese silks and
sashes; exotic Middle Eastern asymmetry and A-line cut garments;
colorful, patterned textiles from India and southern Asia; and dynamic ▶ Prehistoric rock art, Acacus
National Park, Libya
geometric, anthropomorphic patterns from pre-Columbian
civilizations. From couture house to main-street store, the modern C. 3,600 BCE
fashion world owes much to the past. Flax is the predominant
fiber used to create
clothing in Egypt.
TIME LINE 013

We live not according to reason, but


according to fashion.
SENECA, ROMAN PHILOSOPHER, 1ST CENTURY CE

3,500–3,000 BCE 3,000–2,000 BCE 2,000–1,000 BCE 1,000–500 BCE 500 BCE–0 0–600 CE
C. 3,300 BCE
Clothing, previously fastened
with straight pins of wood, is
now secured with fibula
(metal brooches) or pins.

◀ Egyptian necklaces

C. 2,500 BCE C.1,900 BCE 490–460 BCE


Egyptian men and women Jewelry starts to play an This bronze
wear distinctive eye makeup, important role in Egypt with mirror is set atop a
made from kohl, and large gold being prized above sculpture of Aphrodite,
black wigs of real human and other metals. Colored who wears a peplos
horse hair. Kohl has been glass and semiprecious and is flanked by
popular in Egypt since gems, including red jasper, cupids.
3,000BCE. carnelian, and garnets are
also used. Necklaces are
worn in daily life and also
buried with the dead.
▶ Aphrodite mirror

C. 3,500 BCE C. 2,500 BCE ▲ Red figure vase c. 600–500 BCE C.300 BCE 476 CE
The Chinese learn to To accompany high-status Not only is armor designed to The fall of Rome—
manufacture silk from individuals into the afterlife, C.600 BCE protect the wearer, it also Constantinople (modern-day
silkworms, and use it to jewelry such as a flexible torc Red-figure vases show denotes social status and Istanbul) is the center of the
fashion sophisticated (neck ring) made from thin figures of Ancient Greece identity. The first mail armor Byzantine world and a
luxury textiles. disks of gold are buried along wearing large pieces of fabric, formed of links is developed melting pot of Greek, Roman,
with the deceased. draped to achieve the in the 3rd century BCE. Middle Eastern, and Far
distinctive Grecian style. Eastern fashion styles.

▼ Black figure amphora

C.2,000 BCE C.500 BCE


Some silk is traded with Asia, The classical period of
but most Egyptians wear Ancient Greece; women wear
simple linen garments. the peplos—a tunic gathered
Class is distinguished at the waist and fastened at
by the quality of linen and the shoulders.
degree of embellishment.

◀ Queen Nefertari ▲ Minoan goddess c.1700–1400

C.1,700 BCE C. 509 BCE C. 500–548 CE


Fashion flourishes on the The Roman Republic is Byzantine emperors set
prosperous island of Crete. founded. The distinctive trends with lavish clothing
The Minoans favor distinctive Roman toga is worn by men embroidered with jewels and
body-hugging garments, and and women in Rome; after stitched with gold.
are able to weave elaborate the second century BCE, it
patterned wool cloths. is worn exclusively by men.

▶ Roman earrings with dolphin


motif, symbolic of Neptune
014 THE ANCIENT WORLD
Helmet

PREHISTORY– 600CE

FROM FUNCTION Leaf-shaped sword

TO IDENTITY Frame-hilted
dagger on leather
or textile belt

F
or Scythian nomads in Asia, Sumerians in Mesopotamia (now Iraq),
Nubians in Africa, and the earliest Chinese dynasty, the picture of early
clothing continues to emerge from archaeological sites. Although little
cloth survives, there are impressions of prehistoric textiles in pottery, and
bone sewing needles, reindeer horn buttons, amber necklaces, and wooden
weaving sticks are found. Where animal and vegetal fibers exist, they suggest
that rudimentary clothes, skins, and furs were largely uncut and often
unsewn, fixed by a pin or a tie-cord. When warp-weighted looms came into
use, possibly as early as the Neolithic period, a semicircle or T-shaped tunic Short
could be woven. Textile technology determined tunic

the shape and degree of stretch, durability, and


Sardinian chieftain A tribal chieftain
warmth of garments. Stitching was used to is shown wearing a cloak in this 7th
strengthen garments, for decoration, and to century BCE bronze statuette from Sardinia.
express identity. Climate and lifestyle also He is armed with a dagger across his chest
and a sword and holds a staff. The cloak
dictated attire—for example, nomadic Steppe gave the body some protection while
men and women wore trousers for riding. leaving the arms free for fighting.

HELMETS
The earliest helmets were leather, followed Coiffed hair
by metal helmets, fashioned first from bronze
and then iron. Ancient helmets could be Handlebar
simple conical or hemispherical shapes, mustache
or more elaborate, with additional guards Thick wool cape
for the nose, cheeks, and neck. Helmets Tunic sleeves and
shoulders have
provided protection, but also an opportunity decorated seams
for decoration and display, with detailing on
Patterned cape
the metalwork, such as animal motifs, or could be made
topped with crests. Celtic crests could be of spotted fur
extremely tall, and warriors were known to
fix figural metal pieces, feathers, or horsehair
plumes to their helmets. Some intricately
patterned and adorned helmets were
created solely for ceremonial purposes.

Close-fitting tunic Scythian rider A Scythian on


and trousers
horseback is shown in a detail
from a 5th–4th-century BCE
carpet discovered in the frozen
Ankle boots
tombs of Pazyryk, Siberia. Made
of colored felt, the shapes are
stylized, but show the saddle,
A Celtic Iron Age horned helmet 150–50BCE, made
patterned cape, close-fitting
from riveted sheet bronze pieces. It may originally
have been adorned with red glass. garments, and distinctive
mustache and hairstyle.
FROM FUNCTION TO IDENTITY 015

Pointed felt hat


Feather
with flaps
Headdress Elaborate
wig
Close-fitting jacket

Clean-shaven Large gold


Sash for high face, in the earrings
waistline Greek style

Bonds of
prisoner

Salpinx
(war trumpet)

Longer
undergarment Short tunic Woven
Combined bow patterned
case and quiver sash
hangs from
Patterned pants, waist
perhaps quilted

Elaborate
Pleated linen,
Holes, possibly loincloth
possibly
for attaching with tassel
Egyptian
figure to cloth border

Dancer of Demeter A woman wearing Scythian influence An archer, from a Greek


a belted tunic performs a ritual dance to plate c.520 BCE, wears mostly Scythian dress,
honor the goddess Demeter. The piece though he is atypically clean shaven. Scythians
was fashioned in gold by Scythian wore pants and close-cut jackets for riding, and
nomadic peoples, 4th century BCE. felt headwear with distinctive shapes.

Staff and coil,


symbols of Hair in topknot
divinity
Peaked
ceremonial Nubian prisoner A captive wears Nubian attire
headdress in this Egyptian artwork on an enamel brick from
Plates laced
together
the Royal Palace of Medinet Habu, c.16th–13th
Long curled Silk scarf
beard with Hair knot century BCE. Egyptians typically portrayed
square end at back of Nubians with gold earrings and elaborate wigs.
head

JEWELRY
Padded coat
Bone, stone, and shell jewelry survive from
prehistoric times, and were probably worn as
marks of status or symbolic protection. As
metalworking evolved, greater sophistication
Kaunakes in design emerged. Gold was prized and
(tufted cloth) Leggings items were often buried with the dead, such
with long
fringing as the lunulae, collars of beaten gold,
wrapped c.2000BCE, found in Ireland.
asymmetrically
around body Square-toed
footwear Geometric
Padded tunic patterns
impressed
with a stylus
Sumerians went
barefoot

Sumerian dress The moon god Nannar reigns Chinese warrior A terra cotta warrior from
in a detail from the Sumerian Stele of Ur-Nammu, Emperor Qin Shihuangdi's tomb, China, c.210 BCE
c.2060BCE. Kaunakes cloth started out as goat or kneels. His armor is of laced plates, made of Early Bronze Age
sheep skin with long hair turned outward. Gradually either bronze or hardened leather. The scarf is gold lunula
cloth was woven with added tufts to imitate this effect. one of the earliest examples of men's neckwear.
016 THE ANCIENT WORLD

3150BCE – 30CE

ANCIENT
Box of offerings
for the gods

EGYPT Kohl
accentuates

F
eyes
Indigo-
or three thousand years almost all clothing worn by the dyed wig
ancient Egyptians was of linen, made from flax grown in
the Nile Valley. The fabric suited the hot climate because
it was cool and airy. Clothes were very simple in shape, with
minimal cutting of cloth. Men wore a schenti cloth wrapped
around the hips which hung in folds in front. Women wore Ceremonial dress In this wooden
a kalasiris (sheathlike dress), often with detachable sleeves. sculpture from Thebes, c.1900 BCE,
a female bearer wears a beaded dress
The mss (bag-shirt) was worn in the Middle Kingdom and
with a beadwork collar. Typically for
later became general wear for men, women, and children. ancient Egyptians, she wears a wig,
The silhouette was influenced by two key factors: the fineness heavy makeup, and rich jewelry.
and finish of the linen—either left with a natural crimp Bracelets
after laundering, or (in the New Kingdom) arranged in match anklets
Beaded dress
crisp pleats—and by the wearing of decorative collars and could be made of
leather thonging
belts. These accessories were rich in color and texture.

Vulture
headdress sits
on top of a wig Shaved head
Straight
shoulder
straps

Coordinating
silver and Linen possibly
colored pleated while
enamel anklets damp using a
grooved board

High
waistband

Dress fits
to body

Translucent
pleated linen
Beads glazed
in green, blue,
turquoise, black,
brown, and cream
End of linen
robe falls in
Hem fringe of
front in a flap
mitra shells

Beaded dress This bead-net dress from Queen Nefertari On this fresco in the Valley Priestly costume This statuette
Leather
about 2400 BCE is made of 3,000 cylindrical of the Queens, Thebes, Queen Nefertari wears sandals
of a priest from the 20th dynasty
and disk-shaped colored beads. It is decorated the finest linen, which is almost transparent. (c.1187–1064BCE) shows his pleated
with shells and breast caps. A dancing girl may She has an elaborate headdress featuring a robe, which may have had fringed ends.
have worn it for entertaining at banquets. gilded figure of a vulture, as well as a gold collar. There are traces of kohl around his eyes.
Both wear gold disks and
Gold jewelry
plumes over gold headdress
and blue wigs, tied in place
ANCIENT EGYPT 017
on indigo-
by richly decorated bands
dyed wig Beaded wig ends

Hoop earrings made


from Nubian gold

Women used
colored cosmetics

Inlaid gold Collar of


Heavily jeweled precious stones
bracelet
pectoral (wide collar)

Fine transparent linen


reveals schenti cloth
Finely pleated around hips
linen kalasiris

Royal robes Tutankhamun and his


wife, Ankhesenamun, are wearing
elaborate headdresses and wigs Lotus flower
dyed with indigo in this image in her hand and
(c.1330 BCE). The pharaoh’s robe is on her headdress
tied at the waist with ornate bands.
Ankhesenamun’s robe has pleats
falling in different directions,
showing how a long piece of
cloth wraps around the body.
Princely robes A mural of a prince and his wife from
the Tomb of Senneferi, Thebes, shows the couple wearing
Offerings of
Cone of flowers to
wigs. Elaborate wigs were made of human hair attached
scented the deity to a net. Their straight, plain linen robes contrast with the
wax
decorative collars, armlets, and earrings they are wearing.

Wig of
human hair
JEWELRY

Gold armlets
Bracelet

The gauzy appearance Dress


indicates a fine linen stitched up Necklace
its length
Complete
leopard skin

Jewelry was worn from top to bottom by wealthy Egyptian


men and women—and even by their sacred animals.
Always colorful, the pieces featured motifs from the natural
Ritual garb A priest depicted world, including green palm leaves, white lotus flowers, and
offering flowers to the god of Finest linen was
pure white
yellow mandrake fruits. Gold came from Nubia (present-day
the West is dressed in a simple
Ethiopia), and silver was rarer and more expensive than gold.
robe of linen and the skin of a
Semiprecious stones included lapis lazuli (imported from
leopard. On his head he has a
Afghanistan), green and red jasper, amethyst, cornelian,
wax cone of perfume, which
was designed to gradually Excess fabric turquoise, and quartz. Glass and glazed composite were
gathers on used to imitate precious stones. Steatite, a soft stone, was
melt in the Egyptian heat. ground
carved into small objects, including pendants and scarabs.

The afterlife This detail from the Book of the


Dead (c.1100 BCE) reveals what a woman wore
in preparation for the afterlife. The plain sheath
dress is stitched up the middle and drags on Gold and silver rings
the floor—it could not be worn in life.
018 THE ANCIENT WORLD

FASHION ICON

QUEEN NEFERTITI
T
he Egyptian Queen Nefertiti—whose name Nefertiti is depicted wearing long, fine tunics draped
translates as “a beautiful woman has come”—is in ways typical of New Kingdom times. Frequently the
famed for possessing both political influence and material’s gathering appears to center on one point,
great beauty. She was the wife of Akhenaten (named after often close to the bust, creating a distinctive high-waisted
his worship of the sun disk, Aten), who reigned over shape; she appears with and without sleeves. A famous
18th-dynasty Ancient Egypt in the 14th century BCE, painted limestone statue of the royal couple, hand in
during the New Kingdom era, and created a glittering city hand, from around 1340 BCE, shows Nefertiti in a long,
at Amarna. Nefertiti’s allure is heightened by mystery—she pleated linen tunic (often called a haik), caught between
seems to have disappeared without trace and theories the waist and bust, gathered to produce undefined
abound about her fate. sleeves, and clinging especially closely to the lower body.
Since dyeing linen is difficult and it was the staple fiber,
Dressing a goddess Egyptian clothing tends to be white. Rich color was added
Contemporary statues and reliefs depict a woman with with accessories by most levels of society.
a striking face, and some show a curvaceous form
highlighted by clinging garments. Such images would An icon for the modern age
have been idealized according to the era’s spiritual values. More than 3,500 years have elapsed yet Nefertiti and
Nefertiti (along with her six daughters) would have all things Egyptian continue to inspire today’s designers.
constituted a living fertility goddess, emphasized The seminal blue-crowned bust (far left) was
by those images that portray her as wide hipped unearthed in 1912 and made its way to Berlin’s
or in tight clothes; surviving evidence suggests Egyptian Museum, where it remains. Upon its
△ PAINTED LIMESTONE BUST that contemporary garments were in fact Berlin unveiling, in 1923, this arresting image
One of the world’s most famous images looser than depicted. had an immediate impact on the public,
(c.1350 BCE, Egyptian Museum, Berlin), Nefertiti’s clothing trademarks include a cementing a fascination for all things Egyptian
Nefertiti wears a flat-topped crown with
distinctive tall, straight-sided and flat-topped that had been fired the year before by the
a decorative ribbon and the remains of
a uraeus—a protective cobra and royal crown worn exclusively by her (left). Her discovery of the tomb of boy-pharaoh
symbol—on the front. Reddened lips and garments were in the fine, pleated linen worn Tutankhamun. “Egyptomania” gripped fashion
kohl-rimmed eyes typify the Egyptian love by New Kingdom royals and often depicted as design of the Art Deco era, from scarab
of makeup, while a decorative collar being so fine that it became transparent—an jewelry to flowing, draped dresses, exotic
circles her neck and shoulders.
aid to showing off the divine body. The linen embroidery, pyramid and lotus-flower motifs,
was probably thicker in reality. Images of dramatic deep headbands, and a love of
SENSUAL DRAPERY ▷ Nefertiti show how Egyptian linen lent itself Nile-green and bright blues. There was even
This red sandstone sculpture from the to draping, folding, and well-defined a mummy wrap dress in the 1920s, an idea
14th century BCE is thought to be of pleating. Ancient Egyptian styles remained interpreted afresh in the skintight bandage
Nefertiti. The contemporary garment similar for centuries, but during the 18th dresses of the 2000s. Flappers’ love of dark hair,
style—finely pleated linen gathered at a
point under the bust and extended over dynasty in which Nefertiti lived, a more red lips, and darkly outlined eyes was part of
one shoulder—showcases a voluptuously complex draping of larger pieces of fabric Egyptomania, and would most likely have been
hipped body symbolic of fertility. developed (alongside the basic kalasaris sheath). encouraged by Nefertiti’s famed bust.

1550 BCE Start of 18th c.1350 BCE Nefertiti 1295 BCE End of 1923 ▷
dynasty, which brings in appears on Theban reliefs 18th dynasty Unveiling of Nefertiti bust in
more complex, pleated Berlin bolsters Art Deco-era
c.1340 BCE Nefertiti
TIME LINE

garments Egyptomania. Egyptian motifs


1340s BCE ▷ seems to vanish appear on 1920s dresses,
Akhenaten’s court moves to jewelry, and ornaments
c.1353 BCE King Amarna. Nefertiti’s image
Akhenaten’s reign shows her in colorful jewelry c.1335 BCE Akhenaten’s 1912 CE Nefertiti
begins, with similar to this brooch with reign ends bust unearthed by
Nefertiti as his wife sacred motifs such as falcons Ludwig Borchardt
and scarabs

1550 BCE 1350 BCE 1340 BCE 1335 BCE 1295 BCE 1920 CE

ROYAL FASHIONS Thought to be Akhenaten and Nefertiti, both are wearing white pleated linen, decorative collars and aprons, and cobra-adorned headgear. ▷
Animal figure on
020 THE ANCIENT WORLD hat and serpents in
each hand suggest
nature goddess of
wisdom or fertility

c.3000 – 1500BCE

MINOAN
CULTURE External corselet
possibly worn to pull in
Short sleeves and
tightly cut bodice

C
waist and lift breasts
Girdle wrapped
entered on the island of Crete, the Minoan civilization twice around waist
was at its height around 1600BCE; it was advanced and
prosperous with widespread trade contacts. Minoan
dress from this isolated island society stands out among other
ancient European Bronze Age cultures for its cut and stitched
body-hugging garments. The small, cinched waist, a key Patterned wool
textiles
feature of both male and female attire, was emphasized in Snake goddess This faience
women by the hats, hairstyles, and embellished sleeves worn figurine, c.1600BCE, was
above, and the wide, flounced skirts below. Men wore peaked found at the Minoan palace
of Knossos. Her nipped-in
caps, wrapped loincloths around their hips, and showed off waist emphasizes her bared
Layered, fringed,
bell-shaped
their bare torsos—although tunics appeared in the later years breasts. Patterned textiles stiff skirt

of Minoan civilization. The art of weaving complicated, like those in her skirt
came in red, blue, yellow,
patterned wool cloths flourished on the peaceful, wealthy black, and white.
island and clothing was more elaborate than that of later
mainland Greek people. Minoan ideas influenced fashion
in Egypt, Mycenae (Ancient Greece), and farther afield.

Shaved parts of
head appear gray

JEWELRY COLLECTION Black eye


makeup

Long ringlets
are isolated
locks of hair

Belts or basic Belt emphasizes


loincloths Skirt possibly narrow waist
around waist made of fur
or woven
Minoan ear pendant, longhair cloth
c.1700BCE
Fighters
Many pieces of jewelry have survived from often went
Minoan culture. The gold pendant shown nearly naked

above is part of a collection known as the Bare feet—shoes


Aegina Treasure, thought to be from the only worn indoors
island of Aegina. An outer ring in the shape
of a two-headed serpent, representing Fresco from Thira In a detail from a 16th-century BCE Priest, Hagia Triada sarcophagus Part of a
longevity, encircles paired leopards and fresco from the island of Thira (also known as Thera funerary scene painted on a stone coffin found
monkeys. Radiating strings of beads are or Santorini), two boys fight in the nude, wearing just on Crete, c.1400 BCE, this priest offers an animal
decorated with sun disks and birds. boxing gloves and a belt. Similarly to women, they as a gift to the dead. His clothes are probably
use eye makeup and wear their hair in ringlets. made of animal hair and skin.
MINOAN CULTURE 021
Diadem and ribbons Sleeves embroidered Gold earplugs
decorate hair with gold and
colored threads
Snake goddess in tall hat Various
faience figurines of the Minoan snake
Serpent coiled
around hat goddess have survived. This one of
1600 BCE wears a towering hat and has two
Matching
bracelets or three snakes entwined around her body.
and armlets Her apron, which has a deep embroidered
border, repeats the curves of the snakes.

Short sleeves Snakes entwined


around arms

Curved apron
Double-layered
suggests cutting
linen loincloths
to shape

Only women wore


yellow clothes

Network of Peacock
fringing around feathers
hemline

Fresco of goddess and worshippers


Lily motif on crown
Flaring skirt Men of apparently African origin worship a
with stylized bare-breasted goddess, 1700–1400 BCE. They
representation wear striped loincloths, probably woven with
of flounces
gold thread, and tight belts at the waist.

Long, oiled and


Elaborate, curled hair
beribboned
headdress Gold neck chain
with lily motif

Eyes painted
with liner

Band of embroidery
or woven bands
emphasize close
fit of dress

Outer loincloth
Close-fitted of folded linen
loincloth layers
Linen bodice with
contrasting bands

Skirt resembles
a kaunakes—
ancient garment
made of woven
long animal hair

Prince Found in fragments


at Knossos on Crete, this
Hagia Triada sarcophagus, offering libations fresco of a young priest-king,
The woman on the right wears a dress with c.1550 BCE, has been heavily
decorative bands at the neck, along the side restored. A feathered
seams, and around the hem. Her companion headdress was a symbol of
wears a skirt that may be made of skins. power in many cultures.
THE ANCIENT WORLD 023

L ADIES
IN BLUE
The Minoan civilization was named after the legendary King
Minos, whose supposed palace of Knossos on the island of
Crete was excavated by British archaeologist Arthur Evans
at the turn of the 20th century. Among the discoveries at
Knossos were the fragments of dynamic frescoes depicting
sports events and also various scenes portraying both men
and women taking part in everyday life.

With their oiled, ringleted hair and open-fronted, tight-


waisted bodices, the three Minoan ladies display the styles
peculiar to their culture. Their hairdressed locks are draped
with beads and clipped in with thin metal headbands
(fillets). They wear delicate bracelets and hold the bodice
tops together with more accessories. The modern
restoration highlights the complex woven textiles
Crete was famous for.

Little of the original paintings has survived. In the 1920s


Evans employed Dutch architect and artist Piet de Jong to
assemble the fragments, and reconstitute the rest. At that
time illustrators of chic fashion journals were setting models
against backdrops of Mediterranean resorts, and stylized
folk embroidery was influencing textile patterns. The
restoration of the frescoes was criticized—perhaps with
some justification—for being overly influenced by current
fashion tastes.

It is impossible to disregard the


suspicion that their painters have
tempered their zeal for accurate
reconstruction with a somewhat
inappropriate predilection for
covers of Vogue.
EVELYN WAUGH, 1920S

◁ WALL PAINTING, KNOSSOS, C.1600BCE


These ladies of the Minoan court display their wealth with
elaborate necklaces, bracelets, and hair ornaments.
024 THE ANCIENT WORLD
Short chiton

c.500 – 323BCE Gold diadem


and decorative
worn over
chemise

CLASSICAL
hairstyle

GREECE
Sunburst and flower
motifs resemble
Minoan patterns

C
lothing worn during the classical period of ancient Greece
was made of simple elements draped to sophisticated
effect. Loose-fitting and free-flowing, it was adaptable to
different seasons. The key garment for both men and women was
the chiton, a tunic comprising two rectangles of cloth attached at
the shoulders and sides. It could be arranged in many ways, and
cut to different lengths. Worn over the chiton was a cloaklike
garment, the himation; this was made of heavy material for
outdoors, or of lighter cloth for a more fashionable effect indoors
or in warmer weather. Women also wore an alternative version of Leather
shoes
the tunic, called a peplos, which was gathered in at the waist and
partially fastened at the top of the shoulders, allowing the free
corners to drape. The chlamys, a cape shaped like the clamshell it
was named after, was originally worn by soldiers but, like many Chiton Both these women from a 19th-
Woven or
functional garments, became a fashion item. embroidered borders century drawing by Thomas Hope wear a
could be transferred chiton. The figure on the left is clearly the
to new garments wealthier of the two, with her more elaborate
Gold kingly Himation jewelry, decorative belt, and rich embroidery.
headband covers head and Fabric of peplos
body for modesty threaded through
loops at shoulder Round
leather
Chiton could be cap
linen or wool

Shoulder straps
keep cloth in
Reins place around
offered in upper body
victory
Running gesture Leather belt
scroll border fastens garment
motif, often high at waist
used in
classical Greek
decorative art

Long, vertical
Wool himation lines like
emphasizes architectural
elegant gestures columns

Bare feet
Xystis (long tunic)
Cnemides falls to ankles
Peplos has
(ankle-to-
contrasting
knee
border
protection)

Royal dress In a scene drawn from Greek Decorative border Wealthy citizens hired Charioteer’s tunic This young driver has
legend, King Agamemnon abducts Princess Briseis musicians to entertain guests at banquets and just won a race and makes a victory gesture,
during the Trojan Wars. The king wears a short festivities. A woman plays a flute in this 19th- c.470 BCE. He wears a type of long chiton
chiton, which is covered by protective, armored century drawing. This classical profile is a known as a xystis, which was the usual
battle dress, c.480 BCE. prototype for figures in later European fashion. dress for a charioteer at that time.
Water jar CLASSICAL GREECE 025

Unadorned hair Women’s wear These female figures


of working Hair bound are from an epinetron, a pottery item
woman in knot and
held in stretchy women wore over their knees to
net band protect clothes while weaving,
450–323BCE. The seated figure wears
a chiton, while her companion is
dressed in a peplos.

Peplos drapes
loosely over
Himation shoulders

Girdle gathers
Draped clothing in waist
needed constant
rearrangement
to keep lines

Pleated
linen

Working dress This detail was painted on


a 6th-century BCE amphora from Vulci, Italy,
a center for Greek crafts. The plainly dressed
figure is a working woman, perhaps a slave.
Slaves did much of the weaving for clothing.

Hair parted
Wool himation in middle
worn over and waved
chiton for Himation
warmth in draped over
winter chiton

Classical dress
often more colorful
Bare feet
than contemporary
representations
show
HAIRSTYLES
The Greeks paid as much attention
to their hair as to their clothing.
In the classical period it was the
fashion for young men to crop their
Himation could
be draped in
hair short. Women teased, frizzed,
many ways to and curled their hair, using combs
suit taste and made of ivory, tortoiseshell, bone,
fashion
olive wood, or bronze, depending
on personal wealth.
Women never cut their hair
(except in mourning, or if they were
slaves), letting it hang in long locks,
or wearing it twisted with ribbons
and piled up in a chignon. Both
Himation and chiton Like many of the numerous men and women perfumed their
small figures found at Tanagra in Boeotia, Greece, hair with scents or fragrant oils.
this one is a naturalistic image of a fashionably Children had long hair—little girls Short crop: Charioteer Waves and braids:
dressed woman, c.470 BCE. Few traces remain tied their hair in ponytails. of Delphi c.470BCE statue, 480BCE
of the statuette's original bright colors.
026 THE ANCIENT WORLD

FLUID
DRAPERY
The elegant language of drapery, and the way in which
it both reveals and conceals the human form, was well
understood by the stone carvers of ancient Greece. They
observed acutely the silhouettes achieved by tucking,
folding, and draping combinations or sections of fabric
that had been cut in triangles, squares, or circles.

Classical Greek drapery was a widespread and long-lasting


style, in both fashion and art. It passed from Greece to
Rome when Augustus (63BCE–14CE), the first Roman
emperor, aspired to surpassing the achievements of the
golden age of Greece. Retrospective styles in drapery
flourished accordingly. Romans, of the upper classes at
least, wore graceful, draped garments, but the influence of
Greece was not confined to clothing. Fountains, sculpture,
and monumental vases in the gardens and villas of wealthy
Romans were invariably decorated with drapery styles
borrowed from Greek sculpture of 500 years before.

In the modern world, from the 18th century onward,


a number of neoclassical movements in fashion have drawn
on the soft, draped styles of the classical past. Often these
have had a particular purpose—for example, helping to
liberate women from the constraints of tight clothing and
cumbersome layers of petticoats and shaped padding.

The rectangle of fabric, when it is


well chosen, is better for making
the human form emerge. The
angles form exterior parts which,
in falling, rise up upon themselves
in tiers and sinuous falls…
MADELEINE VIONNET, GAZETTE DU BON TON, 1924–25

GREEK VOTIVE RELIEF, 410BCE ▷


Draped in flowing folds of stone, Artemis and
her nymphs stand before a river god.
028 THE ANCIENT WORLD

PREHISTORY TO 600CE

PROWESS AND
Distinctive crest
served as marker
on battlefield

PROTECTION Pattern on helmet

I
gives illusion of
n some parts of the ancient world, men spent much of their fierce expression
lives away from home on active military service. What they wore
depended to a large extent on money and rank. Men who dressed
in armor were likely to have paid for it themselves—like the hoplites
(Greek foot soldiers) in the 5th century BCE, who were drawn from the
middle classes and could afford to provide their own body protection.
Early armor included metal plates, scales, hardened leather, and
padded linen. The invention of mail shirts, made from individually
Felted wool hood
forged interlocking rings, is attributed to the Celts in about 300BCE. protected head,
neck, and shoulders
Chain was expensive to produce, and was probably restricted to
the highest ranking warriors. A mail shirt allowed more limb
movement than some other forms of protection, but at
30 lb (15 kg) it weighed the wearer down. Battle-dress
styles sometimes depended on attitude—the fearless
Spartans marched to war in red capes to disguise bloodstains. Ancient Greek soldier
A helmet was a basic item
for any rank of an armed
Horned helmet force. The absence of a
designed to cuirass (protection for the
intimidate torso) suggests that this
terracotta figurine was
PROTECTIVE FEATHERS modeled on a soldier of
the lower ranks.
Getting closer to the gods and gaining
protection from evil by wearing plumes,
or representations of birds, is common in Shield would be
many cultures, from Egypt to Peru. Feathers made of metal,
are inherently powerful, being light, boiled leather,
or hide over a
yet flexible and tough. wood frame
In the pre-Columbian
Amazonian and Jacketlike garment
Andean cultures, with lapels shows
headdresses and Persian influence

ceremonial garments
were adorned with
feathers—especially the
contour plumes of wing
and tail that aided flight. In
Ancient Egypt, after death,
the spirit's “heart” was
weighed on a golden scale Molded leather
against Ma’at, the feather leg protectors
of truth. If the heart was
the lighter, the spirit
went directly to the
heavenly afterlife.

Bronze warrior This 5th-century BCE votive


figure from the Etruscan civilization may
Peruvian feathered represent Mars, god of war. Soldiers held
headdress their shields on the left side, overlapping them
when in line to create a wall of defense.
Horsehair
plume
PROWESS AND PROTECTION 029

Half-man,
ARMOR
Shield held
with internal half-stag, with
leather grips Thick metal torc helmet of antlers
protects and
adorns neck

Snake was a symbol


of fertility, abundance,
Second torc and reincarnation
held in hand

Greek helmet

Heroic cuirass
Tight-fitting wool tunic
and breeches
suggested, with stripes
or other woven pattern Other than the helmet, the cuirass was one
of the most protective elements of a suit of
Pleated
armor. It covered the front of the torso, and
drapery was usually connected to a back piece for
all-around protection. The so-called muscle
or heroic cuirass of the classical world was
cast to the wearer’s body, and was
designed to mimic an idealized human
Symbolic weaponry Armor and weaponry, Celtic warrior This half-real, half-dream physique. Greek and Roman art often
such as the shield and crest borne here by figure comes from a silver cauldron found depicts generals and emperors wearing the
the Greek goddess Athena, c.490 BCE, were in a peat bog in Gundestrup, Jutland, heroic cuirass, but real soldiers would have
sometimes purely symbolic. The figure is from Denmark, 150–0 BCE. It was probably used much simpler armor in battle.
the Temple of Aphaia on the island of Aegina. made in Celtic Romania.

Warrior wears a Archer Horseman Studded Felted


mask, probably at back with spear harness wool hood
to protect face Protective mail
on shoulders
and torso

Shield may show


identifying colors
of soldier's army

Padded leather
cotun

Foot soldier
with sword
Shin shields
end at knee
Suit of mail or
studded coat

Etruscan-Corinthian warrior Painted on Anglo-Saxon ranks This helmet fragment Scottish soldier This early medieval carving
an alabastron (perfume bottle) probably from the 7th-century CE Sutton Hoo burial site in from a grave slab in the West Highlands of
made in Etruria (now Tuscany) in the 6th Suffolk, east England, shows different ranks of Scotland shows a man dressed in a long,
century BCE, the soldier has some protective soldiers. The men wear protective clothing but padded leather garment known as a cotun,
wear but mainly relies on his shield. no helmets over their long, flowing hair. which gave reasonable protection in battle.
030 THE ANCIENT WORLD

200BCE – 600CE

STYLE IN
Fitted jacket
with overly
long sleeves,
ruched up

THE EAST Knotted and


patterned
Sash worn
around waist

C
woven scarf
hina was known as Ceres (from the word for silk) in the ancient
world after its legendary and luxurious silks that were traded to
the West along the Silk Road. The rich stashes of garments and
accessories found in ancient tombs show how sophisticated the textiles
and clothing were. They included highly patterned, light-reflective
Baggy knee-
fabrics, and translucent gauze weaves. By layering garments of different breeches adapted
lengths, and adding contrasting linings, waist sashes, and bands around from steppe peoples

the neck, strikingly colorful combinations were achieved. Elaborate cloth


turbans and wide sleeves were to influence fashion in the West. The
T-shaped kimono-style garments from China and Japan had wide sleeves
Leather
that hung from the elbow over the wrist and different proportions than sandals
Western-style tunics. In central Asian and Persian areas (modern Iran and
Iraq) clothing was more fitted, tight to the wrists
and with shaped skirts, influenced by the
Chinese merchant On a piece of painted silk,
nomadic, horse-riding peoples. this trader is portrayed as part of a group of
merchants transporting their wares. His clothes
are brightly colored but practical: knee-
breeches and a fitted jacket.

Bronze Peacock-feather
oil lamp Cloth wrapped
neck adornment
around head
Hair Large
covering hoop
earrings Face mask

Standing collar
made by straight Carrying
edge on robe framework
with silk panels

Figured silk with


Wide pattern of plants
sleeves and animals

Sleeves folded Embroidered


back to form panels around Pattern similar
Robe wraps deep cuffs hem to weft ikat
across body designs of
19th–20th century
southwest China

Leather Boots tied


sandals around calves

Servant girl The kneeling girl holding a functional Chinese scholar Xuanzang was a renowned Yingpan Man This 4th–5th-century BCE masked
oil lamp wears a simple robe that wraps around the Chinese Buddhist and scholar, depicted here Caucasoid mummy from the Tarim Basin, China,
body and is tied at the side. It has a distinct collar returning from his pilgrimage to India. He is is dressed in a patterned silk coat and wraparound
and cuffs. The lamp is from the Western Han shown wearing a Chinese-style, wide-sleeved skirt. Discoveries like this along the Silk Road reveal
dynasty (c.206BCE to 9th century CE). robe over loose breeches. the sophistication of silk weaving at the time.
STYLE IN THE EAST 031

Hair tied back


smoothly
Noblewoman A figurine Mandarin-style
of a woman from an hat
SILK ROAD
excavated tomb in Hunan
province, China, wears a The Silk Road was not one but
white silk wrap-front robe several trading routes through the
covered in the fine silk
mountains and deserts between
floral embroidery practiced
Asia, the Arabian peninsula, and
in China for centuries.
the Mediterranean. Silk was a
prime commodity, along with
Wide sleeves can precious stones and spices.
cover the hands Excavations along the Silk Road
offer glimpses into the cloths
being traded. For example, at
Palmyra in Syria—a major trading
center that handled goods from
Sash in contrasting China, India, and Iran in the
color, knotted Roman period—Chinese silks
at the front
have been found in tombs.
Red silk lining Robe After Western cultures fell for
shows in turned- wrapped silk’s allure, their goal was to
back collar around learn the secrets of sericulture
body
Long, (obtaining silk from silkworms)
tubular
skirt
for themselves. The Persians
succeeded by the 3rd century CE.
Upturned toes on shoes
a northern fashion
Western Han Dynasty silk banner, c.180BCE,
Kimono’s origins The distinctive, loose T-shape found in a tomb in Hunan province, China
of the garment later called a kimono is apparent
in this Chinese man’s outfit. Men’s and women’s
clothing were similar. Japan adopted clothing from Richly
embroidered
the Chinese Han Dynasty early in the Common Era. decoration

Tall, decorated
turban implies
wealth and status
Hands tucked Wound
into sleeves turban
cloth
Pointed Buttons
full beard fasten at
front
Diagonal front
of robe unknown
in Europe
Shorter sleeves
Decorative
of outer caftan
work on sleeves

Skirt width
Decorative sash created by adding
hanging down Contrasting triangles of fabric
silk border to rectangles

Caftan with
A-line skirt

Long pants tucked into


boots underneath

Ancient Persian This Sassanid-era (200–600 CE) Sassanid noble Horse-riding tribes originally
nobleman wears a tall hat and wide-skirted caftan cut curved fitted clothes from skins, rather than
(robe). The tailoring is sophisticated—it is fitted and straight woven lengths. Clothes convenient for
has tight sleeves. Persians wore silk two centuries riding—long sleeves, split skirts, and shaped
before the Byzantines. waists—became the norm.
032 THE ANCIENT WORLD

C.900 – 200BCE Striped cloak A young musician,


depicted on the wall of a tomb

ETRUSCANS
in the city of Tarquinia (c.500 BCE),
wears a dramatically striped tebenna,
the classic Etruscan cloak, flung
casually over his tunic.

B
efore the rise of Roman civilization a people
known as the Etruscans flourished in Etruria,
an area of Italy corresponding broadly to
modern Tuscany. The origin of the Etruscans is
uncertain but they are thought to have come from
Asia Minor. By the 7th century BCE these people had
established a wide-reaching commercial network and
were trading all over Europe. As a result, Etruscans
Colorful
enjoyed a comfortable lifestyle and the means to tebenna worn
over tunic
dress up—as paintings, sculpture, and pottery, mostly
recovered from the burial sites of the wealthy,
testify. Their clothes combined influences from both
Greece and Asia and included garments that later
became classic items of Roman wear. For example,
the colorful tebenna, a wide, embroidered cape
that was worn throughout Etruria, evolved into
the Roman toga. The purple robes of later Roman
emperors were also worn in Etruria. Sandals were
one of the most
common types
of footwear

ACCESSORIES Tunic of fine linen,


Minoan-influenced probably pleated
hairstyle

Trio of circles
motif on cloak

Colored
border

Plated
leather
cuirass

Gold pendant
(portraying Achelous,
the river god) c.6th Leech-shaped gold
century BCE brooch, c.7th century BCE
Perizoma
(very short
The highly skilled Etruscan jewelers created Long breeches)
marvellous accessories in bronze, silver, and chiton under
(gown) cuirass
gold. These included pendants, bracelets,
necklaces, earrings, bracelets, clasps, and
brooches. A gold-working technique known
as granulation was developed, whereby tiny
grains of gold were soldered on to a smooth Pointed
background to create a glittering effect. boots
Some of the showiest pieces date from the
7th century BCE. Between the 6th and 4th Dancing clothes Paintings in the Tomb of the Age and youth This Thomas Hope line
centuries BCE the work was fine but less Jugglers at Tarquinia (c.500 BCE) depict various illustration shows an older man wearing a
extravagant. Around 550BCE engraved entertainers. This dancer wears pointed boots and cloak with the trio of circles motif often seen in
gemstones were imported from Greece. a chiton with a contrasting border. Bracelets and Etruscan art. However, the younger man’s leather
large, disk-shaped earrings complete her costume. armor is more imaginative than authentic.
ETRUSCANS 033

Headband worn Tutulus


over short hair (conical
headdress)

Cloth wrapped
loosely around Long, Greek-style Brooches holding
body draped garment chiton together

Elaborate
embroidery

Loose robe This 19th-century drawing by Drapery A red-figure painting of Dionysus,


Thomas Hope shows the Archaic Etruscan god of wine, and his wife, Ariadne, taken from
(c.600–480 BCE) style of wrapping the body a 4th-century BCE krater (jar), illustrates the
in a large, loose, unstructured robe. This form Archaic Etruscan fashion for draped clothing
of dress was replaced by the tunic, which was with flowing lines. Hair was worn long and
pulled down over the head. sometimes braided or arranged in a bun.

Parasol was common Parasols, to protect


accessory for the wealthy from sun, probably
adopted from Persia
Long, richly
embroidered
Ribbons chiton
threaded
through hair

Lacerna (short
wool cloak)

Embroidered
cloak, colors
now faded
Shoes
Tunic
slightly
upturned
at toes
Pointed
leather
shoes

Well-dressed women Pictured on an Etruscan Pointed shoes The man in this painting from Embroidery The chiton worn by this bronze
vase, the woman on the right wears a Greek-style the Tomb of the Augurs at Tarquinia (c.500 BCE) votive figure (c.520–470 BCE) is embroidered
peplos, a type of sleeveless dress; her companion, may be a priest or a relative of the deceased. with the popular Etruscan trio of circles motif.
left, wears a gown called a chiton. In typical His shoes, with pointed and curved toes, show A close-fitting conical headdress, known as
Etruscan style, both flaunt richly colored cloaks. Greek, Persian, or Middle Eastern influences. a tutulus, covers the figure’s hair.
034 THE ANCIENT WORLD

509BCE – 476CE

ROMAN EMPIRE
Fabric draped from
the shoulders
Rhetorical
pose with
draping over
one arm

D
Garment used
ress was carefully prescribed in Roman society, especially for up to 10 ft (3 m)
of wool fabric
men; rank and status determined whether the toga could
be worn (only by Roman citizens) and whether it might be
colored. Only the emperor could wear purple, but priests, senators,
and equestrians (serving in the army or the administration) might
wear a stripe of purple on their robes. A women’s basic garment was
the stola, a robe which hung in pleats from the shoulders, where it
fastened with brooches or clasps called fibulae and was often held in
under the bust and around the waist with a belt. Over this, ladies Color of the
toga and its
wore a palla (shawl), which might cover the head. Madder (red), border was
Togas were complicated to determined by
saffron (yellow), and indigo (blue) dyes were available, and clothes arrange and heavy to wear the wearer’s
rank
were sometimes embroidered. Most garments were wool or linen,
but silk was imported for the wealthy. Foreign captives and slaves A subucula
wore a tunica (tunic). Leather sandals or boots protected the feet. Roman toga The memorable
(simple tunic) was
worn underneath
garment of Roman male dress
was the toga, which was
draped around the body and
HAIRSTYLES over the arm. Basically a
Horsehair plume semicircle, the toga was woven
on an upright loom, beginning Wearing calcei
with the long straight edge. (shoes)

Curls were
Toga drawn
made using
over the head
heated metal Helmet with
curling tongs chinguards

Purple border Purple


indicates high status stola

Cloak

Women’s
hairstyle

Hair pomades
and creams
were made
from animal
fats

Apron skirt Bowl for


Men’s hairstyle of studded making an Tunic hitched up
leather strips offering over hip belt
Hairstyling was important for both men and
women, and hair fashions changed often. Shin guards
During the Imperial period (27BCE–3CE) styles Boots are
became increasingly elaborate, particularly for called solea

the nobility. Men generally kept their hair short Caliga


and neat, and were clean shaven. Wealthy (leather
sandals)
women had slaves to help them curl and
dress their hair using ointments and
calamistrum (curling irons). To create styles Roman soldier Wearing a leather Draped figure In this fresco from a Dancing spirit This lar is a
such as the raised curls above, hair pieces cuirass, this reconstructed legionary household shrine in Pompeii, the master of mythological figure who protects
or wigs were used, sometimes made with has a metal helmet and shinguards the house is offering a sacrifice. His priestly the household. His tunic is tucked
blonde hair from Germanic peoples. to protect him in battle. His wool function is marked by draping the purple- up in a simple rustic style. It is
cloak was also a blanket. bordered toga praetexta over his head. bound at the waist with a girdle.
Playful crown
ROMAN EMPIRE 035
of leaves
Hair is curled and
pinned up
Strophium—band
of fabric worn Crown of
over breasts laurel leaves

Pallium (cloak) of
saffron-dyed wool

Pagne Both men and


(loincloth) women wore
made of linen loincloths
Greek influence
A 1st-century CE fresco
Double-girdled
chiton—folded from Pompeii shows
Female gymnasts A mosaic over in two Greek hero Jason
from the Villa Romana del places wearing a chiton (tunic)
Casale in Sicily of 200–300 CE in the knee-length
shows women wearing “Ionic” style, with long
bikinis. The upper garment is sleeves and held up at
a simple scarf tied around the the waist. The Roman
bust and the lower piece is a tunica was based on
loincloth. Shaped leather this garment.
Roman underwear from the
same period has been found.

No beard—Roman
fashion was
clean shaven Laurel Headdress
Wool was the only wreath of horns
Applied fabric available to worn by and jewels
ornament was most people people
called segmenta of rank

Tunic
Colors are
embellished
probably fanciful
with tapestry-
on this fresco
woven bands

Gallicae
(knee-high boots)

Purple dye
was the most Purple border
highly prized called a clavus

Gauzy stola of
Long country
precious silk
boots called pero

Leather sandals

Hunting gear Wearing a tunic and practical Ceremonial toga A house fresco in Pompeii Silky nymph Roman mythology included
boots, this man, in a mosaic from 4th-century CE shows Greek king Agamemnon in a toga. By stories about gods and nymphs. The beautiful
Sicily, is returning from a hunting trip. Only decree, togas were white, called pura. Only nymph Io, the lover of Argos, is shown dressed
Roman citizens could wear the toga—foreigners emperors, magistrates, and priests could wear in a stola (diaphanous silk robe). She was turned
and slaves wore simple tunics. the expensive purple edging. into a heifer so her headdress has small horns.
036 THE ANCIENT WORLD
Padded headdress
called propoloma

476 – 600CE

BYZANTINE Strings of pearls


around face called

STYLE
praipendula or
kataseista

A
Imperial
decorative
fter the fall of Rome in 476CE, Constantinople (present-day Istanbul) collar
became the center of the Byzantine world. With the rise of the empire
came opulence and a fusion of Greek, Roman, Middle Eastern, and
Oriental styles. Clothes indicated social status. The richest and grandest
figures, exemplified by the Emperor Justinian I and his consort Theodora, had
their long, flowing gowns of richly patterned silks encrusted with jewels and
gold thread. The veils and silks worn by women, and the T-shaped tunics and
cloaks worn by men, were developed from Roman official dress. Some of the
garments, notably the pallium (cloak), chasuble (outer garment), and
dalmatikon (wide-sleeved tunic), were formalized into vestments of the
Orthodox and Catholic churches. Poor working people wore plain wool
tunics, knee-length for men, with leggings, boots, and a long cloak on top.

EMPRESS THEODORA
Jewel-embellished
“May I never be without the purple I wear, Tonsure and tablion (decorative
panel) at waist
nor live to see the day when men do not call “bowl cut”
hairstyle typical for
me ‘Your Majesty,’” proclaimed Theodora in priests until
532CE, in defiance of the revolt against her medieval times
Semicircular cape
husband Justinian’s rule. The empress's called a mantion
lavish dress emphasized her wealth and
status. Gold thread decorated her garments,
Embroidered stola
which were colored with expensive Tyrian (scarf), matches
purple dye and embroidered with jewels. other vestments
Her fashion influence has traveled down
through the centuries—designer Karl
T-shaped
Lagerfeld drew on Theodora’s embellished vestment Bible encrusted
style for his Paris–Byzance Spring 2011 based on with jewels and
Roman tunic embroidery
collection for Chanel.

Embroidered or
Shoes woven panels
embroidered reinforce hem
with the cross
Embroidered
shoes

Holy man This mosaic of St. Stephen from Byzantine empress The Empress Ariadne in
Monreale Cathedral, Palermo, Sicily, shows this 6th-century CE carving wears a loose-fitting
him wearing bands of heavy embroidery, his robe based on the Roman toga. She carries an
vestments following the style of Roman tunics. orb and scepter as symbols of her imperial
He also wears a stola over his left shoulder. power over the state and the Orthodox Church.
BYZANTINE STYLE 037
Head cloth
Sleeves are separate called vilarion
pieces of cloth joined Beard may
at shoulder imply foreign
mercenary

Short-sleeved Crown inlaid


overtunic with jewels

Sleeves of tightly
fitting linen Sash knotted in
undertunic may particular way Praipendula—
be stitched jewels hanging
to fit at wrist around face

Rich colors of
brown and red

Floor-length
outer garment
Large fibula
holds mantle
in place

Striped textile This woman’s striped textile, Foreign soldier This figure of a soldier from
depicted in a mosaic, probably came from a a chapel in Palermo, Sicily, is shown dressed in
near-Eastern source. The direction of the stripes clothes probably from a near-Eastern location
down the body and arm indicate that the such as Anatolia or Mesopotamia. The artist
sleeves were stitched into the shoulder. intended him to appear foreign.

Diadem inlaid
with semiprecious Gold and silk
stones Stola worn woven tablion
around both (decorative panel)
shoulders
Band of
pearl-
Diaphanous silk
encrusted
veil with fringed
embroidery
ends—symbol of Ornate outer
the virgin bride chasuble

Wide-sleeved
dalmatikon
(tunic)

Patterned Wide-sleeved
silks probably vestment has
woven in black woven
imperial state bands derived
workshops from Roman tunic

Embroidered
end panel of
a waist sash

Shoes embroidered
Open leather and encrusted
shoes with white with pearls
wool socks

Silken virgin This detail from a mosaic in Justinian’s clergyman Emperor Justinian’s retinue Imperial purple Emperor Justinian
a church in Ravenna, Italy, shows one of included clergymen in vestments that indicated wears a long mantle colored from large
the holy virgins. She wears a figured silk the transition from formal imperial Roman dress quantities of enormously expensive
overgown. The secrets of silk production to liturgical wear. The stola has evolved into a Tyrian purple dye. His tunic sleeve is
were smuggled into Constantinople. symbolic garment without practical function. visible underneath.
038 THE ANCIENT WORLD

PREHISTORY TO 600CE

DYES AND Sources of dye for


black trim of cloak
were tree bark,

PIGMENTS
oak galls, green
walnuts, and other
plants containing
tannic acid

T
here was much more color in the ancient world than many faded
objects and buildings that remain would suggest. Mixing naturally
occurring pigments with water or oil is evident in prehistoric cave
paintings, and ancient people found colors to dye cloth, decorate their skin,
and create jewelry. The most commonly used dyes and pigments were locally
available. Many came from plants; insects were the source of a few rich
colors, and rocks, minerals, or soil provided others. The best quality, rarest,
and most expensive dyes, such as Tyrian purple from sea snails, were traded
Shade of red
across cultures and continents. Color—sometimes in the form of pattern— depended on the
differentiated class, customs, and geographic origin. It could also be symbolic. mordant (metallic
salt) used in the
dye recipe

Bow painted
to match
Embroidered
wool felt cap

Red Swathed in two tones of red, this female


figure is depicted on an Etruscan jar from the
6th century BCE. The word “crimson” comes from
kermes, an insect that feeds on holm oaks in the
Mediterranean, and the source of the dye.

Sleeves and leggings


probably made from Green pigment from
sprang, a stretchy Yellow dyes were
powdered rock
netted textile easily obtained
from a number
of plants

Horus had the


head of a hawk

Repeat patterns probably Blue rubbed on to skin


woven in on the loom, possibly had protective powers
using tapestry techniques

Bright colors Ancient Greek


statues and buildings were
vividly painted with mineral
pigments and indigo when Black
pigment
they were first made. This from jet
reproduction of an archer or marble
from c.490 BCE suggests how
these statues appeared.

Ancient Egyptian blue This detail from the


back of a mummy mask shows Horus, god of
the sky and protector of the ruler of Egypt.
Blue, the color of the sky and so of heaven,
was used symbolically in honor of the dead.
DYES AND PIGMENTS 039
Some rare
examples of
green dye in Red dye from
South America cochineal beetle
THE POPULARITY OF INDIGO
Purple from While some cosmetics were ruinous to
overdyeing red health and beauty in the long term, indigo
and blue
had special healing properties. Indigo is a
natural antiseptic and was traditionally used
in tattooing the skin. A major international
trading commodity, indigo is one of the
most readily available natural dyes around
the world, although the quality and intensity
can vary. It is sourced from different plants,
depending on the climate. In Europe Isatis
tinctoria (woad) was the source. Different
species for indigo exist far and wide, from
sub-Saharan Africa to Japan and India.

Fermented,
compacted
Green from leaves look
overdyeing like a rock
blue and yellow

Undyed, rich Tabards were


brown native often worn
wool or cotton
Compressed indigo

Orange and ocher The ocher on the woman’s robe is Green and contrasting color This stylized figure
an earth color used in paintings—like this 1st-century CE is woven into a llama wool cloth for wrapping a
fresco from Pompeii—but not in textiles. The cloth mummy in the 3rd-century BCE Paracas culture of
could have been dyed with cheap weld or goldenrod, Peru. The lively textile patterns of pre-Columbian Tyrian purple dyed
or rare, expensive saffron from crocus stems. cultures use contrasting colors and shapes. cloth a rich red-violet
and did not fade

Madder red from


roots of the
madder plant
Indigo dyed

Blue from
Indian indigo
White is
White silk or the natural
cotton baggy background
pants color

Saffron yellow
sash

Chinese blue Blue from indigo was the most Patterned clothing The patterns distinguish these Purple Tyrian, also called true, Imperial, or murex (from
easily available dye, since the plants grew freely. Semite women of c.1900 BCE from Egyptians. Striped the sea snail that secreted it) purple was a precious
This detail from a painted panel of Chinese silk or patterned cloth may have been the biblical Joseph’s dye farmed in the Mediterranean. It was reserved for
shows a man both wearing blue and carrying a “coat of many colors.” The white cotton was block imperial and high religious use or for rich diplomatic
blue-and-white teapot. printed with wax to resist the dye, like batik. gifts. The Phoenician city of Tyre was a trade center.
040 THE ANCIENT WORLD

◁ RURAL WEAR
RECONSTRUCTION A peasant tends his sheep

SHORT TUNIC
in a rural idyll on a late
Anglo-Saxon vellum. He
wears a simple tunic
draped over a fabric
belt—a style and shape

T
that endured for centuries.
ypically worn in the Saxon era, this short ungored (without panel
inserts) tunic has been re-created in gray lozenge-twill wool by
reconstruction dressmaker Sarah Thursfield. Short tunics were
worn by young men and workers from the 3rd or 4th century CE in
northern Germany right through to late Saxon times. Tunics based
on rectangles and triangles were the basic unit of clothing across
Europe. They were usually worn with braccas (wool pants), often with
leg windings, and leather shoes. The final appearance of a tunic was
a matter of personal preference and style: the wearer arranged the
spare width of the fabric over the tied fabric belt, gently pouched
or sometimes in the stylish pleats
seen in late Saxon illustrations.
Later tunics often had
fuller gored skirts.

No armhole
Fullness at top of shaping
arms allows freedom
of movement

Full-length
sleeves

Short skirt
pouched
over belt

◁ SIMPLE CONSTRUCTION
The tunic back and front are made from two
unshaped rectangles of cloth with added
sleeves that taper at the wrist. A fabric belt
defines the waist and gathers in the width.
SHORT TUNIC AND PEPLOS STYLE 041

Brooches at each
RECONSTRUCTION

PEPLOS
shoulder did not
always match

STYLE
Natural opening
created for arms

C
ombinations of wrapped dresses and sleeved linen
shifts were worn from the Bronze Age (more than
Linen undershift
could be laundered
4,000 years ago) and formed the basis of Ancient
Greek and Roman women’s wardrobes. An example of this
dress style survives from a Danish “bog body” of around
500BCE, and the garments only appear to have gone out of
fashion with the Northern European move to Christianity.
The peplos-style dress is simply a large tube of cloth.
The fold at the top controls the length in wear, and
two brooches hold it in place at the shoulders.

IN DETAIL
◁ IRON-AGE REPLICAS
Bronze safety-pin brooches made
Garment falls from a single piece of coiled wire
in heavy folds are used to hold the peplos
together at the the shoulder.
The changing style of brooches
is revealed through finds in early
Saxon graves and often give an
indication of the wealth of the
individual.

◁ WOVEN BORDERS
The wool fabric would have been
woven on an upright loom, either
warp weighted or with upper and
lower beams. On these looms it
was possible to weave the cloth
either as a continuous tube or as
a single large piece. The border
design is part of the weave.

◁ WARMTH AND
PROTECTION
As with the tunic, this
garment is managed by ◁ DRESSING VENUS
the wearer and may be Two attendants dress
worn with a belt and Venus, drawing her
shortened for practical peplos up over a filmy
work. The dense wool shift in this detail of the
provides good protection birth of Venus from a
and an extra peplos-style marble relief on the
outer garment could be Ludovisi Throne,
added in cold weather. c. 470–60 BCE.
MEDIEVAL
ROMANCE
AND TRADE
600–1449
044 600–1449

MEDIEVAL ROMANCE
AND TRADE
T
hroughout this period clothes for most people were very
simple, based on little more than two draped rectangles sewn
into a tunic. Tunics and cloaks were made of wool and linen,
600–800 801–1070 1071–1100
though leather and furs were also worn, especially in the colder
664
northern regions of Europe. Silk was an extremely expensive item In England, the Synod of
throughout the medieval era. After the fall of the Roman Empire Whitby decides that the
Roman tonsure (top of
in 476CE people began to travel across Europe, learning new customs, the head shaved) is to be
techniques, and fashions. The Church split into two branches: the adopted over the Celtic
tonsure (front of the
Eastern (Byzantine) and the Western (Holy Roman Empire) with head shaved).
different styles of clothing for each. Ecclesiastical clothing was fixed
at this time by papal decree and religious vestments today still follow
these templates. T Priest being tonsured

New skills and tools ▶ Detail from the Bayeux Tapestry


Most people in the Middle Ages wore a variation on a tunic, but, as
cutting improved slowly from the 12th to the 14th centuries, clothing
became more shaped to the body. Also at this time vertical looms
were replaced by horizontal ones, which allowed fabric to be woven
more quickly and increased textile production; it became cheaper to
buy clothing. Byzantium retained the most advanced and luxurious
culture—its clothing styles were much imitated by Western courts and
monarchs such as Charlemagne. Europeans traveling to and trading
with Middle Eastern areas discovered new styles and fabrics, 985 1070s
eventually finding out the secrets of sericulture (silk production). Fine Eric the Red sails from The Bayeux Tapestry, made
lampas, cloth-of-gold, and brocaded silks were produced in Italy and Iceland to Greenland of linen and embroidered
with Norse settlers and with colored wool yarns, is
Spain, no longer relying on expensive imports. establishes a colony. Clothing created. It reveals hallmarks
from burials during the 14th of Anglo-Saxon embroidery
and 15th centuries give an techniques.
Birth of fashion insight into dress at the edge
By the later Middle Ages fashion and clothing became more of the European world.
complicated. There was a wider choice of garments and accessories
and a greater range of fabrics; colors were brighter and closures more
varied. With a certain novelty and more choice, fashion can be said to
have been born, styles changed more quickly, and the idea of change 680 1095
Anglo-Saxon England has silk The First Crusade
for change's sake arrived. Improved production of textiles meant by the late 600s, brought begins, opening
wastage, and innovation was possible. Garment shapes began to be back from Rome by Benedict additional routes
Biscop and others. It is and bringing
curved, and edges could be snipped or dagged. an essential, and portable, back Eastern
purchase for well-off pilgrims fabrics
Place in society to Rome or the Holy Land. and styles
to influence
Despite these changes, some things remained rigid. Women were Europe.
expected to keep their heads covered, and clothes dictated an
▲ Eric the Red in armor
individual’s place in society—they revealed who you were and what
you did. It was frowned upon, and there were even laws against, 711 1066
non-nobility attempting to dress as nobility. At the same time The conquest of Spain by Beginning of the Norman
differences between social classes increased—the rich looked a lot the Moors brings an Islamic Conquest in England, when
and Moorish influence to Norman styles from the
richer than the poor. Iberia and the development continent began to have
of Hispano–Moresque a major influence on
style (silk textiles that have English dress.
geometric patterns).

▶ Byzantine fabrics
traveled to Europe
TIME LINE 045

A merchant was there with a forked beard, In mottelee and


hye on horse he sat; Upon his head a Flaundrish bever hat…
GEOFFREY CHAUCER, THE MERCHANT’S TALE, C.1380

1101–1200 1201–1210 1211–1300 1301–1359 1360–1380 1381–1449


1150 1200s 1215 1350 C.1390
Horizontal looms, around Buttons start to appear The Fourth Council of the A fashion for mi-parti or Chaucer’s Prologues to The
since the 11th century, in European Lateran rules that Jews parti-colored garments made Canterbury Tales includes
become mechanized in clothing. and Muslims must be of two contrasting fabrics, details of the pilgrims’
the 12th century. distinguishable by their dress, one on each side, emerges in clothing, showing how
beginning the process that the mid-14th century for medieval people can
transformed the conical men. determine status and
Jewish hat from something position from what
worn as a voluntary mark of someone is wearing.
difference, to an enforced
▲ 13th-century one. Clerical dress also
metal button becomes mandatory.

1204 1367
The capture of King Richard II of England
Constantinople (reigned 1367–99) is credited
in the Fourth Crusade with having invented the cloth
diminishes the power of the handkerchief. The item “little
Byzantine empire, and its pieces [of cloth] for the lord
hold on dress style. King to wipe and clean his
nose,” appears in the
Household Rolls
(accounts),—the first
The Silk Road documentation of their use.
Marco Polo's route
Venice ASIA
EUROPE RUSSIA
Constantinople Shang-tu
(Istanbul) Ta-tu
Ning-hsia
1150 TURKEY Shachow C.1380
Tabriz Kashgar Feng-yuan
Damask is first produced in Maragheh Herat
Balkh
Women’s shoulders are
Acre Sultaniyeh HINDU KUSH
the city of Damascus in the HIMALAYAS
Chengtu
revealed for the first time in
Kerman
12th century. Damask fabrics Hormuz
low-necked fitted dresses.
Delhi
rely on contrasting weave Tagaung Clerics and critics are
textures rather than color INDIA predictably outraged. They
SPICE
to render patterns. INDIAN
BAY OF ISLAND also accuse women of
BENGAL
OCEAN padding their busts to give
them a better appearance.

▲ Map showing Marco Polo’s


route and the Silk Road

1271 ▲ Fitted tunic worn over breeches ▲ Woman in conical headdress


Venetian Marco Polo sets off
on his 24-year-long travels C.1430
along the Silk Road. His 1350 The conical headdress in
voyage passes through The gown for men is the shape of a cone or
all the centers of silk abandoned and instead a “steeple”—the stereotypical
innovations, manufacture tight top over the torso, with princess hat—makes an
and trading, and he returns breeches or pants below, appearance.
to Venice with riches is worn. These become
and treasures. the distinctive feature of
European men’s fashion
for centuries to come.

▲ Damask patterned fabric C.1205 1278 1351 1431


The word “breeches” Velvet is woven in Spain and Edward III of England Joan of Arc, the Maid of
first appears in the Italy in the late 13th century. establishes an embroidery Orleans claiming divine
English language. It is documented in 1278 that workshop in the Tower guidance, leads the French
the English King Edward I of London. armies to victory against the
has a velvet bed covering. English. She is burned as a
heretic on May 30,1431. One
of the main charges against
her was that she wore male
clothing and cut her hair
short—transvestitism was
▲ The Maid of Orleans against church doctrine.
046 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE

600 – 1100

THE AGE OF Head wear could


be a pleated

MIGRATIONS
veil or cap

A
fter the western Roman Empire collapsed, people started migrating to
new areas, sometimes by invasion and conquest, sometimes through
peaceful settlement. In Northern European areas, Germanic, Frankish,
and Norse-speaking peoples needed warm, water-repelling clothes in the cold
climate, so wool was the main cloth used. People in warmer Mediterranean
Tunic patterning
regions had lighter clothing in linens, wools, and sometimes silk—if they could that looks like
afford it. Both men and women wore loose tunics, based on rectangles sewn spun yarn Long
sleeves
together in different styles, and caught with belts. Mantles (cloaks) were
draped over tunics, sometimes with status-enhancing fur linings. Men wore
trews (the forerunner of pants) below the waist, wrapped with wool bands or Jewelry like this
survives in graves
leather below the knee. Linen shirts were worn as undergarments beneath when textiles decay
tunics, and sometimes worn on their own in summer. Surviving clothing from
burials reveals a love of finery in embroidery, tablet-woven braids, and
intricate jewelry.
Viking woman Women in Scandinavian
countries wore ankle-length tunics held together
on the shoulder with large brooches, such as
this silver example. Tunics were made mostly of
wool, woven in beautiful geometric patterns.
TEXTILE PRODUCTION
Voluminous
green wool
Before the horizontal loom’s introduction, mantle
c.1000, all European weaving was done on
vertical looms, held under tension with Tunic with
warp-weights at the bottom. Producing cloth matching
mantle
was extremely labor intensive and women did
most of it at home. Wool, the most common
fiber, had to be shorn, cleaned, and carded
(brushed), then spun with a drop-spindle. The Red dye
loom was set up with vertical warp threads, was expensive
and finally the weft threads were woven to produce

horizontally over and under the warp to make Softly draping


silk robes
cloth. Clothing was based mostly on straight
lines, connecting the selvedges (fabric edges)
to minimize waste.

Shorter tunic
worn, Byzantine
style, over Long
longer one under-tunic
revealed by
shorter outer
Soft leather shoes garments
are embroidered

Woven gold
bands on hems

Imperial majesty This illumination, c.990, Byzantine silk A 10th-century woman


shows the Holy Roman Emperor Otto III in the wears sumptuous textiles. Byzantine silk was
Mythological finest attire possible. His silk tunic is dyed with light and clung to the shape of the body.
Wool tunic, c.600 motifs costly red and embellished with gems and gold. The under-tunic, painted to look blue, was
The crown, orb, and scepter mark his authority. probably made of white linen.
THE AGE OF MIGRATIONS 047
Pointed crown
in Byzantine
style

Underarm Elegant draping,


Beard and gusset gives even with simple
long hair sleeves construction
fullness
Men wore caps
of fur, leather, Mantle worn
or wool sideways in
fashionable style

Loose wool
tunic tapers
at wrists

Embroidered
leg garment
and leather
leg wrappings
Length hitched
up over belt

Off-duty Vikings Two 12th-century Carolingian style Emperor Charlemagne’s


Norwegian men fixing a sword wear wool son, Louis the Pious, d.840, wears sumptuous
tunics, belted at the waist. Summer Viking raids silk and gem-encrusted clothing. The damask
brought new fashions and rare accessories back mantle is particularly extravagant in its color
to Norse regions. and pearl motifs.

JEWELRY
Long hair

Undergarment
shows at wrists Close-fitting
linen leg
coverings

Drapery lines
reveal rich
quantity of fabric

Thor's
hammer

Tunic could Replica Viking amulets


be made of
Fine, supple
luxurious silk
leather boots Jewelry was a means of adornment and
also a form of portable wealth, easily carried
and used as payment. People living around
Tunic based Applied bands
on rectangles the Baltic Sea collected amber, the fossilized
show wealth
resin of prehistoric trees, and traded it across
Europe and beyond. Precious metals, such
as gold, and jewels had a nearly sacred
attribution due to their rarity. Other metals
used included bronze, iron, copper, and tin.
Catalan noble Men’s and women’s dress Royal splendor As befits a ruler, Frankish King Glass beads appear in many Norse graves.
could be so similar that it was hard to tell the Charles II wears fine-quality clothing, c.870. His Men and women held clothing together with
sexes apart. This Iberian noble from the 7th long mantle covers a tunic and leg coverings, ornate round pins and brooches, and wore
century could be a lord or a lady, since both although classical writers thought that pants shapely belt buckles, rings, and earrings.
wore long clothes, soft shoes, and long hair. were barbaric.
048 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE

900 – 1100 Body


Beards in
style

THE EARLY
completely
covered Large gold
shoulder brooch

MIDDLE AGES Mantel is a

A
huge rectangle
covering her
s people began to settle into stable societies, different top half
styles of dress evolved. Charlemagne’s Holy Roman
Empire and the monasteries of Anglo-Saxon England
recorded clothing details in illuminated manuscripts. The
modern words “kirtle” (under-tunic) and “mantle” (cloak)
originated from the Anglo-Saxon cyrtel and mantel. Women Cyrtel reaches
wore a kirtle over a linen undergarment, and often an outer the ankles

gown as well. There was still little difference between


clerical and secular dress, all continuing to be based on Vamp stripe
on leather
Ancient Roman principles of draped rectangles. Southern ankle shoes
areas around modern Spain and Italy particularly wanted
to show links with the former empire in Romanesque style.
Women covered their heads with veils according to Christian
Anglo-Saxon cyrtel, mantel, and veil Fit for a king Biblical King David,
ideas of pious modesty. As textile technology improved,
In the 1060s Judith, Countess of in a manuscript of 1050, wears a long,
people used more fabric in their clothing. Eastern silk from Flanders, is shown draped with cloth. dignified gown in quality fabric—the signs
as far as China outstripped local products in complexity and Her long, semicircular linen veil wraps of a ruler—with a woven pattern and
over her head and shoulders. The mantel frilled hem. The gartering holding his
beauty, making it highly prized.
is draped sideways. braccas (pants) is carefully interlaced.

Crown is a lavish
No beard version of a fillet
Silk borders (metal headband)
could be
Borders as jeweled Patterned or
on noble
embroidered
dress
silk bands

Mantel
looped
over one
shoulder
Short tunic
Soft belt
contrasts with
formal long
Longer sleeve gowns
wrinkled up Extravagant
wide sleeves

Full-skirted
short tunic

Two layers
of wool
garments
Unusual knee-high
socks, possibly
Viking style

Linen rectangles
wrapped
Bare feet around legs
for summer

Everyday wear A linen veil is Simple dress In the 1020s this man Anglo-Saxon king More modest than Anglo-Saxon queen Noblewomen
wrapped around this 11th-century has the keyhole neckline seen in continental rulers, Cnut of Wessex wears like Aelfgyfu-Emma, King Cnut’s wife,
woman’s head. Her outer gown has noble dress, but in a plain fabric. His a silk-bordered tunic. A later Anglo-Saxon enjoyed wearing sumptuous dress. Her
short sleeves, and it covers a much tunic is short and easy to move in, king’s clothing was “interwoven with gold clothing, c.1040, was probably dyed
fuller, longer tunic. with tight cuffs. and sumptuously embellished.” with costly colors.
Pinned veil
THE EARLY MIDDLE AGES 049
Long, straight
sleeves
Fillet (metal
headband) holds
second veil

Circular
mantle

Borders embroidered
with gold

Slim fit
reflects frugal Blue silk tunic
fabric use in fine folds

Feet could Longer white


be bare linen tunic under
top tunic

French dancer This dancer’s lively


movement contrasts with formal poses.
Her pinned, extremely long veil is
coming loose and the tunic is cut with a
Luxury dress An 11th-
minimum of material. The 11th-century
century French manuscript
painted colors are inaccurate but show
honors St. Radegund by
Mustaches people’s love of bright dyes.
clothing her in an imported
with no beard
a Norman Byzantine mantle of the
fashion most expensive purple
silk. Her two tunics
Classically are clearly defined.
inspired clothing

Tight sleeves

Leather
sword belt MARKERS OF LUXURY
Tunic with
divided skirt,
like culottes Jewelry shows the distinct
medieval styles. Gold and enamel
jewelry had symmetrical Celtic
patterns or the stylized animals
Braccas (pants)
or hosa (hose) favored by Anglo-Saxons. Other
on legs markers of a settled, richer society
were women’s fine embroidery,
Norman warrior The embroidered wool applied to hangings, copes
stitches of the Bayeux Tapestry, made in the (capes), and clothing, imports
1070s, show the natural vegetable dyes used such as silk, as well as furs,
to color textiles. Cropped hair was a practical kermes (red dye), and fine wools.
choice beneath helmets.
MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE 051

TRENDS
IN TUNICS
The Bayeux Tapestry (actually an embroidery) documenting
the Norman invasion of England in 1066 illustrates the
fashion of the time: the tunic, shaped like a "T" with
insertions for fullness. It was the basic clothing for Saxons
and Normans, but the trend for wearing short tunics was
relatively new—one of many continental fashions that King
Edward the Confessor introduced when he came to the
English throne in 1042 after exile at the Court of Normandy.

Most men wore two tunics: a linen undergarment covered


by an over-tunic. The under-tunic was sometimes longer,
so that the bottom of it peeped out below the hem of the
over-tunic. Pulled on over the head, tunics had a slit at the
front of the neck, bordered by a band or collar, often in
a contrasting color. A belt was worn, sitting at the waist or
low on the hips, and could be used to tuck up extra length.

Although tunics were ubiquitous, the quality of the cloth


reflected the wealth of the wearer. The aristocracy, often
shown in the tapestry as pointing and giving orders, wore
sumptuous silk tunics with gold embroidery imported from
the East. The bright colors showed off expensive dyes. Much
simpler, coarse-cloth tunics with close-fitting leggings were
worn by laborers. The colors available to the ordinary
people were shades of natural gray and brown,
and greens and blues from plants.

The English did Frenchify


themselves…and make
themselves ridiculous by their
fantastic fashions…
WILLIAM OF MALMESBURY, 1095–1143

◁ HISTORIC TUNICS
The Bayeux Tapestry, probably embroidered during the 1070s, provides a picture
of the clothes worn by both nobles and serfs in the 11th century. Here, tunic-clad
laborers build a fortified Norman base.
052 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE

1100 – 1200

COURTLY LOVE
AND CRUSADES Loose hanging
sleeves show
wrinkled undersleeves

F
ashion became increasingly flamboyant in the 12th century—
a time of Crusaders, romances, and chivalry. Vivacious, sophisticated
fashions cultivated in the south spread north from Mediterranean
shores. Clothing became more seductively fitted, showing the body’s
shape for the first time. Tales of courtly love celebrated this effect,
conjuring visions of figure-hugging silk gowns revealing embroidered
chemises beneath laced sides. Garments were still based mainly on
rectangular and triangular fabric cuts, but with lacing to crush straight
shapes against the curved figure. Even ordinary women wore their tunics
Fashionable knight The
more closely over waist, arms, and hips. Men’s clothing also lengthened
ankle-length tunics and long
and tightened. Noble people of both sexes wore the bliaut or brial, a sleeves adopted by knights and
tunic made of fine, expensive silk with trailing hems and long sleeves. the aristocracy around 1110
attracted criticism from clergy for
Accessories were long, pointed shoes, long hair, and elaborate cloaks
being effeminate and inconvenient
and mantles. Religious and secular clothing styles began to differ. for fighting. Long hair and beards
were fashionable too.

Uncovered hair Slim,


Round fillet for maiden girdled
holding fine veil hips
SILK

Sleeve
around
Slit neck
neckline

V-neckline

Close-
fitting
Wide, hose cut
hanging on the
sleeves bias

Silk lampas

Contrasting
This fragment of silk lampas with a pattern lining Split
of lions and harpies shows the extraordinary tunic
skill of 12th-century weavers. Luxury silk
Pleated or finely
textiles were highly prized and expensive, gathered long
with alluring names like samite, Alexandria, skirt of bliaut
ciclaton, taffeta, and lampas recorded in
romance tales of the times. Long lines When women finally Girl’s pendant sleeves
Silks were either rich and stiff or valued revealed their hair, they added false Extreme fashions in women’s
for their delicacy, transparency, and light hair into their braids for dramatic dress, which included sleeve cuffs
draping. Silks made ideal high-status gifts, length. French noblewomen wore so wide they trailed on the ground or
since they were light and unbreakable bliauts of the finest Asian silks; had to be tied up, were fashionable
during long-distance travel. fine pleating contributed to the from c.1150. Thinner fabrics clung
vertical illusion. to the body, outlining the shape.
COURTLY LOVE AND CRUSADES 053

Long hair Parti-colored tunic Short,


held back in two halves curled hair

Round
neckline
Semicircular
mantle with
red lacing

Slim waist
Extra long widening
Wrinkling at from hips
sleeves Long the waist from
front split tight lacing
Bliaut with
full skirt

Patterned
fabric
Long,
pointed Colored
Expensive toes hose
Ankle
red hose shoes with
vamp stripe

Southern dress This Provençal viscount’s tunic, Split tunic This is what French Abbot Bernard of Elegant draping This musician has used his
c.1110, follows the body, but is not fashionably Clairvaux meant when he complained that split hip belt to hitch up his tunic and create flowing
skintight, though its tight sleeves had to be sewn clothing “revealed intimate parts.” A young lines. Sideways wrinkles show the closeness
shut at each wearing. Aquitanian fashion was 12th-century Frenchman’s shirt hangs over over the ribs. The wider sleeves of the outer
more sensuous than that of northern France. tight hose that look like naked legs. tunic do not interfere with his playing.

Raw wool
on distaff
Rectangular veil
over wimple
Long
hair Tight sleeves
V-neck
laced or sewn
shows
linen shirt

Tunic Circular Pleated


emphasizes mantle chainse
womanly figure with hole sleeves
Tight Dress clings for head
sleeves to belly

Baby in
swaddling
bands
Shorter outer
tunic with
Skirts made contrasting
Long
fuller with border
chainse
extra fabric (linen tunic)

Body-revealing dress This young Veronan Noble Englishwoman This image from around 1170 Veiled mature woman Nuns, widows, and older
girl’s tunic is skintight—probably through shows a women in the modest dress of married women, women left fashion behind and veiled their heads
lacing—and reveals all her feminine curves. spinning yarn with a distaff and spindle. The veil is still throughout the Middle Ages and Renaissance period.
The contrast with the full flaring skirt shows long and covers all her hair. The tunic may have buttons Wimples, which concealed the neck and chin, were
the new seductive fit appearing in clothing. at the front, and fits closely. pinned at the top of the head and covered with a veil.
MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE 055

FASHION ICON

ELEANOR OF AQUITAINE
E
leanor of Aquitaine (c.1124–1204) is one of the In a palette of blues, grays, burgundies, and earth tones,
most important and well-known figures of the the silk was highly embellished and heavily embroidered
Middle Ages, due to her huge influence on the in costly metallic threads. The garments’ sumptuous flow
cultural life of the time. Born into the ruling family of the outraged church fathers: Bernard of Clairvaux complained
Duchy of Aquitaine, a large province that covered most of about the ladies at court who “drag after them trains of
southwest France, this cultured, sophisticated, and most precious material that makes a cloud of dust.”
eligible heiress in Europe had an extraordinary zest for life. Bliaut sleeves also drew attention; they were tight from
At 15 she married the future King Louis VII of France and shoulder to elbow, then flared out into enormous cuffs
moved to Paris. Used to luxury and splendor, Eleanor long enough to drag on the ground. Sleeves were knotted
found the city bleak and gray. She immediately set about to shorten them and to make them more manageable.
transforming Paris into a center of art and beauty. With
her strong sense of style, she introduced new Impact abroad
fashions, fabrics, and etiquette from the more A formidable woman, Eleanor accompanied
sophisticated south. Nobles from Aquitaine her husband in 1147 on the Second
had a reputation for being fashion Crusade (1145–1149), traveling to
conscious, and the new queen Constantinople (modern Istanbul) and
shocked Louis’ courtiers with her Jerusalem. She took chests of the
jewels, kohl, and rouge. Chronicler finest clothing with her so she might
Bernard of Clairvaux remarked that appear as a sophisticated Provençal △ INTERNATIONAL INFLUENCES
her gowns were “not so much queen instead of a Frankish rustic. In this effigy from Fontevraud Abbey, the
adorned as loaded down with gold, She cut a dashing figure. The Greek queen's dress was originally covered with
diagonal bars of gold, representing an
silver, and precious stones.” She was chronicler Niketas Choniates noted expensive Eastern silk. She wears the
said to be tall and extremely beautiful Eleanor’s ride into Byzantium: barbette and is reading a book—a literate
and continued to enchant men across “...even women traveled in the ranks woman in illiterate times.
the known world into her old age. of the crusaders, boldly sitting astride in
their saddles as men do…At the head of
Setting the trend these was one in particular, richly dressed,
Under her influence, women’s clothing became who because of the gold embroidery on the hem
increasingly elaborate. The bliaut, a long overgown, was of her dress, was nicknamed Chrysopous [Golden Foot].”
a new trend. In Eleanor’s reign it grew tighter around the Eleanor was granted an annulment of her marriage to
bodice, fitting snugly down to the hips, and was worn Louis in 1152 and went on to marry Henry of Anjou as a
with a decorative belt or girdle. The bodice was split down love match. In 1154 he became King of England. As in
either side from underarm to hip and attached with ribbons, Paris, Eleanor began to turn primitive England into an ◁ NOBLE COLORS
which could be tied to tighten the fabric across the body. illustrious court, introducing art, makeup, romance, and Wealthy noblewomen wear the bliaut
The skirt was cut wide, falling in light folds and pleats poetry under the influence of her glamorous personality. with extravagant sleeves in this 12th-
century stained-glass window in the Abbey
down to the feet. This emphasized the conspicuous use of Wherever she went, Eleanor challenged tradition, of Saint-Denis, France. Courtly romances
rich fabrics. Silk from the Middle East was readily available developing the style and sophistication, romance, and describe how the gowns could be open at
throughout Europe and used extensively by the royal court. chivalry for which the medieval period became famous. the side to reveal delicate underwear.

1137 Marries Louis and 1140s ▷ 1154 Becomes ◁ 1167 Popularizes long braided
becomes Queen of Popularizes the bliaut and Queen of England, hair. Returns to France, after being
France, bringing other long overgowns with and introduces new estranged from Henry II, and cultivates
sophistication trailing sleeves and hems style and standards of a court in Poitiers unmatched by any
TIME LINE

to the Paris court living to the English in Europe for its cultural influence
1140s Patronizes the court—drinking wine
troubadour poets of her 1147 Takes part in the instead of beer, and 1173 Is imprisoned for
native court. In turn, Second Crusade. Her bringing in costly silks 16 years after taking part
they praise her “lovely cloaks are sumptuous and love poets in a revolt against Henry II
eyes and noble and heavily embroidered
countenance”

1130 1140 1150 1160 1170 1180

◁ ELEANOR RIDES INTO CAPTIVITY A 12th–13th-century fresco shows Eleanor, cloaked upon a horse, bidding farewell to her sons as she is imprisoned by Henry II, after taking part in a revolt against him.
056 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE Milk jar

1000 – 1450 Rectangular linen


veil covering head

PRIESTS AND Long hair


and linen veil

THE PEOPLE
Large
decorative
brooch

I
Belt from which
items can be
n the Middle Ages fashionable, luxurious dress was attached
only possible for the wealthy minority, including
nobility, merchants, and clergy. Ordinary people—
peasants and freeholders, artisans and trade workers, or
professionals—wore simpler versions that allowed them Pleated
to do their work. Their clothes were shorter or plainer, leather
purse
in coarser, often home-produced, fabrics. Garments such
as aprons could double as tools, to carry items or as Close-fitting
but not
protection. Laborers stripped to cool linen underclothes tight tunic

for heavy field work. Learned and professional men Leather


Red shoes fit
wore long robes that marked their education. Although under-tunic foot’s
shape
religious clothing kept to older tunic styles, the Church
used the best-quality fabrics with the finest embroidery
Imitating fashion This 12th-century English dairywoman The
and weaving to dress cardinals and bishops, as well
Italian working woman sowing grain uses Luttrell Psalter manuscript of the
as to adorn altars. her wide sleeves like a bag. Though simple 1330s shows peasants going
and ankle length, her tunic has the large, about their everyday tasks. This
Tippet (long pointed sleeves of noblewomen, with older woman wears a long wool
sleeve end) Linen coif tunic with close-fitting sleeves.
DYEING CLOTH reveals fur lining under
a brooch at the neck.
skullcap

Scholarly attire Roman author Pliny the


Elder is imagined in the 1480s in the Hood
Italian clothing worn by medieval with tail
scholars. Academic dress today
still derives from 15th-century
robes, with open sleeves,
pleated backs, and soft caps.
Beard of older man
Liripipe (tail) on
youth’s hood

Long hanging
split sleeves

Doublet with open


seams underneath

Ordinary people did wear colored clothes in


the Middle Ages, but linen was hard to dye Tight hose
and was used in its natural pale gray covering
or bleached white. Dark sheep gave dark the legs

wool, while paler fleeces could be dyed.


Common plant dyes made browns, yellows Pointed
shoes with Ankle-
(weld, goldenrod), and blues (woad, indigo). ankle strap length robe
Dyestuffs were fixed with mordants,
minerals that “bit” color into cloth. Reds and Italian doctor A professional man such as this
purples were difficult and costly to produce, doctor from c.1345 wore long garments, and
left to professionals like the 15th-century a skullcap and coif to mark his position. This
dyers above. contrasts with his patient’s shorter tunic. Both
wear fashionable hoods and tippet sleeves.
PRIESTS AND THE PEOPLE 057
Hood with Sienese country man An Italian 1380s
shoulder cape and Braided fresco shows warm-weather country
short liripipe (tail) straw hat clothing—cool, loose linen braies (drawers) CHURCH TEXTILES
keeps over bare legs, a wool tunic open at the neck
off sun
and tucked back to reveal a long linen shirt,
and a wide-brimmed straw hat.
Hat hanging
down back

Syon Cope

Few pieces of medieval clothing are still in


existence. Of those that survive, most are
exceptionally high-quality miters (bishop’s
Large
wool hats), chasubles (vestments), and copes
coat (semicircular capes) made for the Church.
English church embroidery became
famous as opus anglicanum (English work).
It was the finest of its day and exported all
Buttoned
up the front
over Europe. An exquisite example of this
is the Syon Cope, made between 1300 and
1320. Precious metal threads mix with silk
stitches to illustrate biblical stories, like
French woodcutter This 13th-century
a wearable illumination.
peasant is wrapped up against the cold in
a large wool coat over a red tunic. Leather
shoes help to keep his feet warm and dry.
The painted colors are not true to life.
Shaved tonsure

Expensive
textiles—silk
and gold

Bishop’s
crosier

Plain,
humble
dress

Chasuble

Frayed hem on
Robes from
edge of tunic
classical
Cassock tradition

Pilgrim’s sclavein Sturdy


leather Alb
(coarse tunic)
boots Pallium
reaches
Leather to hem
ankle
shoes

Pilgrim’s clothing Pilgrims who set off Bishop’s robes Many of these 12th-century
to visit religious sites wore practical dress, liturgical vestments are still worn today. A
including a hat to keep off the sun, robust patterned red chasuble is worn over a blue
wool clothes to keep out wind and rain, cassock and white linen alb. A pallium (stole)
a staff, and a leather satchel. drapes around his shoulders to the hem.
058 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE

800 –1453

THE EAST Pillbox cap,

IN THE WEST
possibly
beaded

I
n medieval times the Mediterranean basin was the most advanced center
in the world for learning, technology, and trade. The importing of luxury
goods into the Mediterranean regions and Northern Europe had a long
history, both before and after the age of the Crusades (1095–1291). Expensive
textiles came from China along the ancient Silk Road, the great trade route
running through Central Asia. Eastern weaving techniques made their way
to Byzantium and Persia, to Islamic areas in North Africa, and to Al-Andalus,
the Moorish kingdom in southern Spain. Venice made its fortune through
controlling the trade in luxuries with the Middle East. Throughout the Middle
Ages the cultures of East and West constantly exchanged and merged styles.

Assyrian-style hat

Tight aljuba
(tunic) with red
side lacing
Turban of
striped fabric
Gold buttons
down front

Extremely wide
sleeves with tiraz
(inscribed) bands

Tunic known
Outer robe
as aljuba
known as
kabbadion

Decorated
shoes
Woven gold
Low-slung
borders
belt or girdle

Greek doctor This doctor wears the long Moorish musician A detail from a mid-13th Crossover style In 13th-century Spain
robe popular in Orthodox countries, with the century illumination, this lutenist combines the Christians, Muslims, and Jews lived together
fashionable 14th-century fitted torso. The Moorish tunic, turban, and beard of Islamic and influenced each other’s clothing. Details,
material’s pattern of roundels containing animals southern Spain with the pellote (sleeveless such as the side lacing on this musician’s tunic,
is typical of high-quality Byzantine silk weaving. surcoat) then fashionable in northern Europe. show how they blended into an “Iberian” style.
THE EAST IN THE WEST 059

Veil and
Turbans were circlet
main marker of
“Eastern” style

Long hair
and beard

Gold-embroidered
silk dalmatic
Long, (vestment)
rectangular
mantle
Stola wraps
around body

Long,
loose
robe
Unshaped silk
Hem gown dyed rich
Horizontal embroidered Tyrian purple
pattern in silk or woven Ankle-
with gold length silk
under-tunic

Turbaned king Alfonso X, king of Castile Serbian matron The Eastern Orthodox Byzantine splendor Norman King Roger II of
and León 1252–84, sits in a Moorish turban women’s dress of the 14th century shows a Sicily wears Byzantine imperial clothing for his
and robe to rule his northern Spanish Christian continuation of classical styles, not the fitted 1133 coronation. The magnificent wide gold
kingdoms. At that time, half of the Iberian clothing of Western Europe. This reflects the band encrusted with pearls and precious stones
peninsula was a Muslim kingdom. kingdom’s link with Byzantine traditions. is a long stola (scarf) wrapped around his body.

Patterned
cotton turban
Fashionable
Jewish
cap SICILIAN SILK
13th-century
sleeve shape

Red silk
brocade
woven with
gold

Circular cloak
with slits
Belt with for arms
gold clasp

Caftan slit to
waist to show Calf-length
green lining tunic
Long Crusading travelers who visited the Middle Eastern Latin
black hose, kingdoms were astonished at the quantities of silk worn
including feet
there. One renowned center for silk weaving was Sicily.
When King Roger II of Sicily was crowned, his clothing
included a semicircular silk coronation mantle made in
Palermo’s royal workshops. This valuable treasure is
Persian caftan An older African man wears Jewish dress This figure from a Jewish text embroidered in gold with symmetrical patterns of lions
a caftan with a diagonal wrap front, a style known as the Bird’s Head Haggadah (c.1300) attacking camels—symbolizing Normans versus Saracens.
never seen in European dress. This was worn all shows the cap sometimes worn by Jewish men. Each animal is outlined with hundreds of seed pearls.
across Asia as far as China. Islamic men and Christian countries often made people of other The inscription around the edge is in Arabic calligraphy.
women’s clothing often had the same feature. faiths identify themselves with specific clothing.
060 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE

1200 –1300

SOCIAL
Barbette fillet
with wimple
under chin
Holding
laces

STATEMENTS
Wedding clothes A wedding scene
from around 1300 shows the main
trends for women’s fashion. The bride’s
mother wears a dress with tight cuffs
but loose upper sleeves. Holding laces

C
lothing became more voluminous in the 13th century, and men’s and keep her mantle forward.

women’s garments followed the same changes in shape. Tunic sleeves


had tight lower arms, but more fabric around the armhole, and the
surcoat (sleeveless overtunic) became a wardrobe staple. Though cuts were
still simple and elegantly draped, head wear became more
complex. Women wore hairnets, or wimples (chin bands) and
Mantle
circlets around the head, and men wore small, round caps.
Hair getting
Beards went out; curled hair came in. Romance poetry with longer and
curled
its glamorous ideals of dress and behavior inspired women
to walk gracefully with swaying hips or to hold a mantle
Buttons still
so as to display a slim waist. Fabrics were more widely unusual, featured
available so the leisured and merchant classes could imitate like jewelry

noble fashions. Such mimicry of their betters prompted


litigation: laws were introduced to control what people Dress trails
on ground
at different social levels could wear. Called sumptuary
laws, these regulations were rarely effective.

Hunting outfit This horseman, from around 1260,


Leather belt
wears a linen coif (close-fitting cap) under another
narrow, round cap, and his tunic closes with buttons.
The heavy leather gauntlet, needed for protection from
the falcon’s sharp talons, is decorated on the cuff.

Elegant folds
in skirt indicate
fine-quality wool
SOCIAL STATEMENTS 061
Curled dorelet
Silk hairnet fringe

SURVIVING MEDIEVAL CLOTHING


Very little complete medieval clothing Slit at
has survived. Some of the best the neck
examples date from the 13th
Buttons century; one such find was of
Sayon (circular members of the Castilian royal
Tight sleeves cape with
attached hood) family buried in tombs in the
Monasterio de las Huelgas in Burgos,
Spain, dressed in royal garb. One
young prince’s grave from 1275
revealed a laced aljuba (tunic),
sideless surcoat (right), and a
mantle. The set of matching
clothes, called a “robe,”
is of the finest Moorish silk
and gold samite woven with
Surcoat the royal coats of arms of the
skirt slit up Skirt stops kingdoms of Castile and
the front below knee
León. The finds confirm the
accuracy of contemporary
Surcoat
illuminations and their
longer usefulness as historical
than tunic records. The images also
bring written descriptions
of noble finery to life.
Bride and groom The bride’s hair is gathered Groom’s friend The groom’s companion has
into a net, and she wears a sleeveless surcoat a larger cape, also lined with fur. Both men
over her long dress. The groom’s red wool achieve a closer fit with buttons, which were Pellote (surcoat) belonging to
surcoat has a hood and a fur lining. beginning to emerge as popular closures. Don Fernando de la Cerda

Short, Tall hat is


curled hair Linen coif ties
Spanish style
under chin

Long hair
visible under
barbette
Silk embroidery
inspired by Square
Surcoat Long, loose hair Moorish clothing neckline
has high, symbolizes
round unmarried status
armholes Long pellote
skirt wrapped
up behind her

Male tunic Side-laced


shortening saya
again encordada
Vair (squirrel
fur) lining

Abundant skirt Wool tunic Hose and leather


pools on floor lined in red ankle boots

French style French men wore


German romance Arthurian lovers Tristan and Spanish fashion This noblewoman coifs, especially under armor or
Isolde sport the latest youthful fashions: shorter wears a red saya encordada (side-laced mail. The split tunic made riding
tunic for him; surcoat, fillet (headband), and an gown) under a pellote (surcoat). Since both are sleeveless, easier. It reveals the long hose,
elegant hips-forward posture for her. Isolde’s mantle the embroidered sleeves of her camisa (linen undergarment) which could be footless or include
is lined with vair (fur from a squirrel’s winter coat). show. Spanish-style clothes were especially formfitting. feet with leather soles.
Neckline is cut Shaped sleeve
062 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE straight across
the back
head set into a
close-fitting armhole
is a 14th-century
innovation

RECONSTRUCTION

COTE-HARDIE
T
his carefully constructed replica of a parti-colored
medieval cote-hardie (outer dress), with its
undergarments, is in blue and murrey (mulberry-
red). It follows the styles found on memorial brasses
from around 1375–85, which show the wives of knights
and barons in formal or courtly dress. The cut and
construction—four A-line, floor-length panels of fulled
(thickened) wool twill with short inset sleeves—have
been conjectured by dressmaker Sarah Thursfield.
Although the shape looks simple to modern eyes, the
figure-hugging cut and low neck were considered
shocking at the time, and the bright dyes and rows of
tiny buttons were condemned as extravagant. Under
the dress is a gray wool kirtle, lined with blue linen
and laced at the center front.

Sleeves of the gray kirtle


(undergarment) visible beneath
the shorter sleeves of the
cote-hardie, but the linen shift
is entirely concealed

Narrow cut at
the waist gives a Simple A-line
smooth, flat outline shape is created
from four panels

Dress widens and


becomes fuller
toward the hem

SIDE VIEW

TWO FOR ONE △ ▷


The mi-parti (part-colored)
effect of this dress was very
fashionable. The dress is
constructed in identical halves
so it appears entirely red from
one side and entirely blue
from the other.

SIDE VIEW BACK VIEW


INNOVATIONS ▷
The curved neckline
Earlier dresses had long tippets cut as part is cut to sit low on COTE-HARDIE 063
of the sleeve and faced with fur. The white the shoulders
cloth streamers on this cote-hardie

IN DETAIL
could be a successor to these.
Buttons were fashionable
for both men and
women: the most
expensive, with ◁ BUTTONING TECHNIQUE
precious stones, The buttons shown here are
were made by those used in the 14th century.
goldsmiths; Rather than being sewn, they are
cheaper ones secured on to the dress with a
were cast in single length of cord, a technique
pewter. that was employed on similar
dresses at the time.

◁ BUTTONHOLES
Buttonholes are hand sewn using
silk thread, and all unlined wool
edgings of the dress are finished
with silk facings. The dress
buttons left-over-right, the same
as men’s clothes. The convention
that women’s clothing buttons
right-over-left came much later.

◁ SINGLE LACE
The neckline is opened here
to reveal the gray wool kirtle
beneath, front-laced down the
center to hip level with a single
lace, as was the practice in
medieval times.

White streamers
are made of ◁ EYELETS
worsted cloth Hand-stitched eyelets are set
close together and tight to the
garment’s edge so the lacing
is discreet and functional.

◁ SELF-COVERED BUTTONS
The sleeves of the kirtle narrow
to long cuffs fastened with up to
50 self-cloth buttons, each one
made from a circle of fabric sewn
tightly to form a firm ball. These
long cuffs would have been
impractical for anyone who
had to do manual work.

◁ OPENED CUFF
An unbuttoned cuff reveals a
simple linen shift worn next to
the skin. Wealth was reflected in
the quality and number of shifts
the wearer owned and how
frequently they were changed
and laundered.

FRONT VIEW
Long, loose hair
064 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE for unmarried girls
Sheer silk or
linen veil, shown
lifted by the wind
1300 –1380 Round
neckline

FITTING TO Sleeves fit


more tightly
around the

THE BODY
armhole
Neckline
becomes
lower Fashionable
swayback
posture

T
Sleeves
become
he biggest development of the 14th century was tighter
the move from flat, draped garments belted for
shape to the cutting of curved pieces with more
complex construction to fit the body—the beginning
of tailoring. Closures, especially buttons, became more
Saya (gown)
important, used on new front openings and along very longer
tight long sleeves. Close fitting revealed men’s and than feet

women’s figures to great effect: sideless surcoats drew


attention to slim waists and new waist seams, and low Long,
trailing
belts emphasized the hips. Chests looked larger—both hem
sexes made use of padding. Colors began to contrast
instead of match, and parti-coloring became popular.
Higher hairstyle Women’s
Many believe that changes in “fashion” began increasing braids were arranged over each Side lacing Lacing was still a feature
in speed from this time. Clothing had tended to reflect ear in a variety of styles, pinned in Spain in 1320. In other areas, the laces
one’s place in society. However, a greater variety of to metal circlets wrapped in that could help achieve the fashionable
colored silk threads. This sheer tightness are rarely seen in images. This red
fabrics and accessories, such as hoods, belts, veils, gloves, veil, fluttering in a breeze, under-tunic draws attention to a narrow
and shoes, made it possible to blur social distinctions. barely covers the hair. waist and swelling hips.

Fillet (thin Youthful Short elbow


sleeve with Short,
headband) short hair
hanging tippet curled hair Shoulder
Crespinette
hood with
(net) under veil
Silk veil Outer robe gold border
confines hair
with hood
and loose,
short sleeves
Wool coat
Central plastron with baggy
section of upper sleeves
cote-hardie Stitching instead
of buttons

Bone needle,
linen thread Pourpoint
Fur trim (doublet) cut
on surcoat to fit body,
not draped Gold
sword belt

Horizontal
decoration was
fashionable,
Jeweled hip
especially in
belt carries
Italian areas
dagger

Full skirt of
Shoes with
surcoat hangs
buttoned
from narrow
ankle strap
center Hose and Tight red cloth hose
shoes have leather soles

Reproduction sideless surcoat The Sewing a sleeve For the fashionable A southern French hunter A hunting French knight This 1378 image shows
surcoat armholes are enlarged to display man, getting dressed might involve companion in 1343 has slung his hood the classic 14th-century male shape: hair
the sides of the body clad in a clinging sewing sleeve and other seams together with a long cornette (tail) over one at ear-length; nipped-in waist; round
cote-hardie beneath. The central plastron for a smooth, perfect fit. This man’s shoulder. Separate hoods ended in chest; tight lower sleeves over the hand;
section could be richly jeweled or long robe prefigures the houppelande, shoulder capes and offered another slim, fitted hips with no fullness below,
embroidered, or have elaborate buttons. a wide-sleeved, flared outer garment. site for elegant arrangement. set off with a belt; and pointed toes.
FITTING TO THE BODY 065
Circlet

Royal lady in high fashion The frilled


veil covers crespinettes over the ears,
Linen veil
with many and the cote-hardie fits a shapely figure,
frilled edges covered with a surcoat and ermine
Sleeves of outer fur-lined mantle in this 1380s image.
cote-hardie are
long and shaped

Neck and
shoulders
Fitted over hips revealed

Mantle’s weight is
held forward

Most expensive
red fabrics

White fur lining


shows on hem and
sleeve streamers

Perfect fit This lady’s 1370 cote-hardie Surcoat with


buttoned
(outer tunic) cleaves exactly to her upper
plastron
body. The high, round chest was also favored (trimming on
in men’s fashion. The wide, boat neckline shows front of bodice)
off her shoulders, and her braided-back hair is
brought forward in loops over her ears.

Neat
pointed
beard

Prominent
chest

Sleeves tight
along the
whole arm

Second green
tunic shows
underneath
LEATHER SHOES
Medieval leather shoes survive in much greater Fenestrated
numbers than fragile textiles. These London leather shoe
examples show some of the styles. Piercing or
Footed
hose
incising with decorative patterns was popular
and showed off colored hose underneath. The Poulaine shoe
long “poulaine” toe was stuffed with whalebone, with leaf motif
Getting slimmer A 1350s Neapolitan illumination wool, or moss to keep the shape. Noblemen’s
shows how the amount of fabric used in tunics was shoes were embroidered with silks. It was
reduced as fit improved. This man still has a fuller hard to keep feet dry, so people wore pattens
skirt, slit over each thigh. His hose are made of —overshoes with raised wooden soles that kept
wool fabric cut on the bias (diagonally) to stretch feet above the mud and filth as they walked. Poulaine shoe
around the leg.
066 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE

TRAILING
ELEGANCE
At the turn of the 15th century fashion for the nobility
became more extravagant. Improved technology allowed
weavers to run riot with patterns of twining symmetrical
fruit and flowers, or geometric motifs. Italians invented
velvet, with its sumptuous pile. Better looms meant the
aristocracy could buy more of their favorite taffetas and
damask, and indulge in more complex patterns. Long
gowns trailed on the ground, implying that the wearer
was rich enough to afford copious amounts of material.
Both sexes wore a voluminous outer garment called a
houppelande. It fit on the shoulders, was full and often
belted, and draped in folds. The sleeves could be long
and wide, sometimes adorned with tinkling bells.

For women, the silhouette was long, with a high waist


and small bosom. It was the fashion to walk with the belly
slightly protruding and the hips thrust forward. This helped
to carry the weight of the fabric and balance the headgear,
as well as to suggest fertility. In this painting, the young
couple celebrate their betrothal. The red turban of the
young man is decorated with dagged (snipped) material. His
fur-lined houppelande trails on the ground. Fur and feathers
decorate his fiancée's turban, and her dress, derived from
the houppelande, has a bodice that fits tightly to the hips.
The trailing finery and elaborate headgear of the nobility
raised moral indignation among the clergy, who reminded
the rich that such ostentation was not good for the soul.

So much pouncing of chisel to


make holes, so much dagging of
shears, with the superfluity in length
of the aforesaid gowns, trailing in
the dung and mire, on horse and...
foot, as well of man as of woman...
GEOFFREY CHAUCER, THE PARSON’S TALE, 1386–1395

LES TRES RICHES HEURES DU DUC DE BERRY ▷


Known simply as The Book of Hours, this richly decorated prayer book was
commissioned by John, Duke of Berry, between 1412 and 1416. The page here
represents April, and shows a young couple exchanging engagement rings.
Pointed helmet
068 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE with nose piece

Norman archer This 11th-century


600 – 1449 longbowman depicted on the Bayeux

KNIGHTS
Tapestry wears mail: circular links of
steel riveted together to form a
flexible, armored mesh tunic.

IN ARMOR Mail
tunic

T
he arms and armor used by medieval warriors changed
over time with new developments in weapons and improved
technical skills in shaping metal. A knight needed to be
proficient in handling many different kinds of weapon and had to
be able to defend himself against similar weapons wielded by his Quiver to
opponents. In the early middle ages men fought with axes, spears, hold arrows

swords, and bows and arrows, either on foot or on horseback, and


protected their bodies with short-sleeved shirts of chain mail made
of interlocking metal rings. Plate armor began to be developed in Bascinet
helmet with
the 13th century as a defense against more efficient crossbows, symbolic crown Leg
bindings
which fired bolts that could pierce soft mail. Armor was also
sometimes made from leather hardened by boiling. By the mid-15th
century knights were completely encased in suits of shining armor,
draped with their heraldic coats of arms.
Mail “aventail”
protects neck

Cylindrical great Vambrace:


helm with protection for
decorations lower arms
Rerebrace:
protection for
METALWORKING upper arms

10th-century helmet

Single sheet
of metal
forged into
a cone

Nose piece is sole


face protection

Advances in the technology of metalworking


played a large part in determining what
knights wore. In the 10th and 11th centuries
soldiers carried a shield as a first line of
Padded jupon
defense. They wore a coat of chain mail with underneath
a hood covered by a helmet that protected surcoat
the head. Only a nasal guard covered the
face. Sections of plate supplemented the Sabautons
chain mail over the centuries. By the 15th (articulated
foot plates)
century soldiers and horsemen wore full
plate armor, made from multiple sheets of
metal, and no longer needed a shield.
Heraldic
While armor provided practical protection, trappings
chivalrous and romantic ideals inspired the
knight in battle. His lady would give him a German knight In the 14th-century jousting Edward III of England The 14th-
piece of her clothing—a sleeve, veil, or field, a knight’s appearance was as much a part century king wears a surcoat with the
belt—to tie to his armor as a token of of his display as the fighting. This nobleman royal coat of arms over a padded gold
her favor. bears his heraldic coat of arms. The “wings” jupon (seen at his elbows and knees).
on his helm were a Teutonic knightly fashion. His low gold belt follows civilian style.
KNIGHTS IN ARMOR 069
Mail coif (cap)
Norman “nasal” and neck gorget
helmet with
chin strap HERALDRY

Hauberk (mail
tunic) with
long sleeves

Central
metal Hauberk
boss Teardrop-shaped (mail tunic)
shield gives most
protection to Heraldic
upper body symbols on
surcoat

Sword

Engraved
steel greaves
(shin armor)

English or German soldier This soldier wears


a hauberk (a calf-length mail tunic). Underneath,
Heraldry began as a means of identification
he is dressed in a fashionable long tunic and
in battle. It combined tinctures (colors) with
pointed shoes. The shield covers most of the
English crusader charges (symbols) to make individual patterns
body and has a metal boss to deflect blows.
Undertaking a used on shields, armor, banners, hangings,
Crusade was seen as holy work for and crests. A precise language describes
Christian knights. This figure, c.1250, these “blazons” and emblems could
wears on his surcoat the cross of the represent a quality or virtue: Geoffrey of Anjou
Lace Knights Templar, an order of elite (d.1151) carries a shield with the charge
fastenings
fighting monks who protected “Azure (blue), three lions rampant gules (red)”.
traveling pilgrims.

Balanced
Close helm
wood lance
Top fits with visor Closed
closely visor
to body Spaulders
cover
shoulders
Breastplate
Breastplate or cuirass
with fashionable Cowters on
“waistline” elbows

Padded
trousers

Horse trappings in
gules (red) and argent
(white or silver)

Quilted clothing In the 14th century Medieval tournament A man fighting on French chain mail and plate armor All the
thick, quilted or stuffed clothing, as in this horseback needed different armor than a foot individual pieces of armor making up a suit of
reconstruction, was worn under chain mail soldier. Full plate armor had to protect the mid-15th-century plate were tied to a fitted and
and plate armor to buffer the body against the whole body but be light and flexible enough padded arming doublet, using laces attached to
metal, distribute weight, and cushion blows. to allow the rider to mount his horse unaided. the doublet. Knights dressed from the legs upward.
Close-fitting collar
070 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE

RECONSTRUCTION

DOUBLET
AND HOSE
C
losely based on the pourpoint (quilted doublet) of Charles
de Blois, dated to 1364 and housed in the Musée des Tissus
Historiques in Lyons, this sumptuous blue silk paltock
(doublet) with brocaded gilt leaves is the work of reconstruction
dressmaker Sarah Thursfield. A feature of the garment is the deep
armhole shape evolved to allow a skintight but nonrestrictive fit
on heavily muscled fighting men. Although both this version and
the original are covered in expensive silk, plain linen doublets
were usually made for the battlefield. The long hose are
suspended from points laced inside the doublet, and the feet are
soled with leather to create the shape of fashionable shoes. They
would be worn with wood pattens if needed.

30 buttons on
front of doublet

Garment is
Seam in sleeves hand quilted
above elbow with layers of
prevents wrinkles silk, unspun
cotton or wool,
Flat front
and linen
Tailored to
curve of back
and waistline

Curved lower
seam on sleeves
is cut to allow
for movement
SHAPED TO THE BODY ▷
Medieval patterns were
produced by fitting fabric
around the body, and wealthy
people would have had
their own personal patterns.
This doublet is made from 22
pattern pieces and took 60
hours to create. The fabric is a
length of saree silk: brocaded
silk or lampas would have
been used in medieval times. Close-fitting
at ankles

Triangular gusset at
each side creates Leather
shape of foot soles

SIDE VIEW
Seam curves
round over the
shoulder blades
Additional layers of DOUBLET AND HOSE 071
padding protect the
back, shoulders, chest,
and upper arms

IN DETAIL
◁ TAILORING
A close view of the back curve of
the armhole shows the gussets
that create the grande assiette—
the large plate shape that defines
the armhole. Each sleeve has nine
pattern pieces. The many pieces
economically use up every scrap
of the highly expensive fabric.

◁ FLATTENED BUTTONS
The doublet’s 50 sleeve buttons
and 30 buttons at the front
opening are made from a circle
of silk stuffed with cotton fiber
and sewn into a tight, firm ball.
Toward the waist, flatter buttons
with a wooden or bone interior
allow a belt to be worn
comfortably.

◁ SLASHED VENTS
Narrow cuff Slashes at each side seam at the
25 buttons same level as the points (where
on each the hose are attached) help the
sleeve wearer to move freely.

Each hose leg


◁ LINING AND CUFFS
is made from a
single piece of The lining of the doublet is fine
fabric cut on the blue linen, which is overlaid with
bias (diagonal) a thin layer of cotton fiber and
then a layer of silk. The garment
is then quilted through all the
layers. Buttonholes are stitched
with silk thread.

Tight-fitting hose were


more suitable for posing
than bending and working

◁ SUSPENDED HOSE
The hose are suspended from the
doublet by five pairs of laces with
metal aglets or chapes. These
are sewn into the doublet and
threaded through eyelets on the
hose. Later garments had eyelets
on the doublet too.
072 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE

High collar
1380 –1450

REGIONAL
Open at
wrists

FLAIR Tight foundation


for loose
outer clothes

T
Braies could
reach to the knee
he 15th century saw an eclectic mix of regional styles and the —these are short
beginnings of pants. For men, the fitted cote (tunic) became
even shorter. It was worn on its own or underneath long outer
garments called houppelandes, using vast amounts of fabric and
bringing back wide sleeves. Clothing became more vivid as
dyeing and weaving improved. At the same time black grew
more fashionable, especially for the middle classes, who spent
more and more on clothes. Better wools led to the craze for
cutting raw edges as decoration and fur use reached its
peak. Individual hose legs were stitched together to create
full-bottomed hose—a key development and the origin
of today’s pants. Headgear offered variety—high
felt cones, draped cloth chaperons and
hoods, wide-brimmed straw hats, and Hood has heavily Linen underwear A man undressing
dagged tail
large silk and fur bonnets. Sleeve shows 1420s underclothes. The loose shirt
hangs over a pair of short braies (fitted
shapes also grew more inventive.
underpants). Doublets had many front
Waist neatly buttons and a waist seam for a close fit.
marked

Doublet
collar shows Leather pouch
underneath hangs from belt
robe neck
High
collar
Center
front closing Gathered
sleeve heads

Clothes lined
Paternoster Leather purse in contrasting
(rosary) with metal- colors
beads edged top flap

In France cut Sleeves


Fur lining edges were draped over
shows considered a wrist
at hem German style
Lattice cutwork
Split tunic boots show
seams show hose underneath
off dagging
Contrasting
panels of
Parti-colored dagged cloth
shoes and hose

Hose in open-
backed slippers

Portable accessories Men and women hung Dagged edges This Italian man from around 1400 Shorter French robe This haincelin
all the items they needed during the day off wears fashionable wool clothes in different bright colors, (shorter robe) has dagged (decoratively cut)
their belts, a handy way of carrying before with decorative cuts, called dagging, around the edges. edges. The earlier hood became a hat by
pockets. This English man’s hat has a liripipe The cloth was so tightly woven that edges did not fray. putting the face hole on top of the head
(long tail) draped over his shoulder. The tight sleeves of a green doublet cover his hands. and elegantly arranging the extra material.
REGIONAL FLAIR 073

FURS IN GREAT DEMAND


Sleeves in Small, Doublet padded
two parts soft cap round chest

Many small
buttons

Laces with Pleated


chapes (metal
Hose tops Parti-colored short The Little Ice Age made temperatures in
falling down legs peplum Europe dip in the 14th century. Demand
points) on end
for fur clothing was huge; sometimes up to
2,000 animals were used in one garment.
Two single legs Most luxury furs came from Russia: ermine,
are called “a a stoat’s winter coat; sable, a brown or
pair”—a term black weasel fur; and brown marten skins.
still used
for pants Cheaper local furs were budge (lambs’
wool), coney (rabbit or hare), fox, and wolf.
The 14th-century Italian merchants
Hose laced to doublet Young men practicing Spaniard in short doublet The dramatic shortening above inspecting vair (winter squirrel fur)
sword fighting would strip to their basic garments. of men’s top garments exposed the gaps in their have the same fur lining their hoods. Furs
Laces tie the individual legs of the thigh-high hose hose. For modesty, hose were soon stitched together had heraldic meanings and painters too
to the bottom of the doublet to hold them up. Linen at the back, with a triangular piece of fabric over represented them with stylized patterns.
drawers show underneath. the crotch. Breeches were born.

Tall Finely woven


sugarloaf straw hat
hat

Pleated New high


sleeve head collars require
short hair

Wool doublet

Belt holds
Belt with gold in pleats
decoration
Pleated
fullness Long doublet
sleeves cover hands

Chaperon hat shows


Garments original hood shape
reach upper
thigh
Lines represent
vair (squirrel fur)
Robe of two
Sable or panels with
marten fur circular hems
lining

Footed hose in
wood pattens

English style Shorter doublets with long sleeves Italian merchant in Flemish dress In van Eyck’s Houppelande with vair lining Fashion took
were an English fashion. The cut of this reproduction 1434 portrait the sleeveless burgundy velvet advantage of the wider and cheaper textiles
exploits the silk’s symmetrical formal pomegranate heuque (cloak) is lined in marten fur. It has open produced on better looms. Large houppelande
pattern. To economize, doublets could have plain sides, leaving the arms free. The ensemble is robes reached the ground at the hem and
bodies with silk used only for the sleeves. somber, respectable, and of high quality. sometimes the sleeves, and replaced mantles.
Wired horns
074 MEDIEVAL ROMANCE AND TRADE Long with frilled veil
uncovered
hair for

1380 –1450 maiden

NOVELTY Sleeves

AND LUXURY
buttoned past
Flared the elbow
sleeves

Hip belt
Edges worked

M
in gold thread
any hallmarks of fashion were in place by
the late 1400s: novelty, innovation, an
element of impracticality, luxury, and—
commentators insisted—excessive vanity and social
presumption. Sumptuary laws still tried ineffectually to Practicing
regulate who wore what. English and French head wear “womanly”
needlework skills
was fantastical, large, and varied. Italians were more
natural; the Flemish preferred modest linen veils. Like
Mantle and
men, women adopted the houppelande and other sideless surcoat
now marks of
long, full pleated gowns cut from large, circular shapes, nobility
belted over a tight underdress that was buttoned or,
increasingly, laced down the front. Their long, separate
sleeves emerged from under the huge, open outer
sleeves. Straight, scooped, or square necklines were low Italo-Spanish dress Critics complained that English headpiece In 1417 a chronicler
and shaped fashionably high round bosoms, sharply necklines were so wide the breasts wanted to wrote of hats with “horns marvelously tall
leave them. This dress from the 1390s has no and broad, with long ears either side.” The
contrasting with the new high collars of outer clothing. belt, Italian style. The pearl-embroidered silk Countess of Arundel’s effigy made in 1415
might have been woven locally in northern Italy. records this startling fashion.

High horned bun Headdress


over temples and based on wired
under frilled linen structure Padded roll forms
veil layers heart-shaped
headdress, worn
with linen or silk veil
High,
narrow
belt
Finest fabric The bride Open collar
Scooped
in van Eyck’s 1434 portrait neckline Belt getting
wears Italian clothing for wider, under bust
her wedding in Flanders.
The bulk of the fur lining Pink cote
Sleeves (underdress)
in her wool gown gives
evolved beneath
a fashionably prominent from earlier
belly when lifted up. small tippets
Narrow cuffs

Skirt less full


than that
of a noble
Long sleeves weighed
down with rows of strips
dagged (decoratively
cut) in cross shapes

Fur lining

French cote-hardie This close-fitting outer Changing Burgundian styles From the
gown has hanging but not excessive sleeves, 1430s the robe with narrow cuffs replaced the
Long hem of and the fabric is plain. The linen veil over houppelande. The high collar, opened in the
gown shows
sheen of modest wired horns shows how normal women front and folded down, was the start of the
top-quality wool modified French court fashion around 1410. V-neck popular later in the century.
Braided hair
NOVELTY AND LUXURY 075
under linen veil
Flemish kirtle All women wore tight-fitting Flemish luxury Van der Weyden’s Popular wide
kirtles. This one, from around 1435, is precise 1430s painting captures headgear, with hair
secured above
made from squirrel skins with the fur every detail of this wool gown each temple
turned inside, seen at the hem. Long, entirely lined with squirrel fur
red wool outer sleeves pin on to the and pleated through the bust.
short kirtle sleeves. The skirt The lifted hem reveals a glimpse Full pleated
attaches at the waist, a new of the sumptuous cloth-of-gold pellanda is Italian
construction method. kirtle underneath. equivalent of
houppelande
Linen shift visible
at neckline

Tablet-woven
Sleeve edges cut
silk belt
into shapes

Hair braided under


Wool mantle linen veil with frilled
over kirtle selvedges

Front of gown
laced together
Sleeves trail
on ground

Kirtle
Piedmontese noble This northern Italian
Deep fur allegorical figure wears a huge, cut-sleeved
hem
pellanda with fur lining over symbolic armor.
A chain with leaf pendants is draped around
Silk textile used her. Her hat is cut, pearled, and embroidered.
on book cover
Large fur hat
with feathers

Modest-sized
sleeves
Cloth-of-gold kirtle Long sash High,
of imported coral round bust
beads fabulously
costly

Golden cote
underneath

Cote-hardie
with ground-
length trails

High girdle is
tablet-woven Height of fashion A noble French betrothal in
in silk, with
gold ends
the 1410s was an excuse for the finest clothing.
This bride’s cote-hardie is made of expensive,
Plentiful fabric Italian-made, gold patterned silk.
in gown skirt
RENAISSANCE
SPLENDOR
1450–1624
078 1450–1624

RENAISSANCE
SPLENDOR
T
his was the period when fashion finally moved from draped
clothing to fitted garments and the art of tailoring came into
its own. Clothes gained structure and became stiffer and more
1450–69 1470–99 1500–19
supportive. The first templates for garments that remained modern
1470s 1500–1560s
items of clothing were created: hose with a fitted doublet and outer Early versions of the Men begin layering clothes
coat for men, a bodice with a separate skirt for women. farthingale appear in Spain as to give bulk and width,
the verdugada or verdugado, especially at the shoulders,
a bell-shaped skirt stiffened creating a square outline.
Differentiation in clothing with hoops of cane, or later, They start wearing hose to
willow. Originally hoops are show off their shapely legs,
Clothing now consisted of a greater number of parts including worn on the outer surface of suggesting athleticism.
detachable sleeves, under- and overskirts, sleeveless jerkins, and the dress, later they go
breeches of different lengths. This emphasis on separate parts of underneath the overskirt.

the body reflected the new interest in human anatomy that had
gripped the natural sciences. The masculine form was enhanced
by the latest clothing, with its wide shoulders, prominent codpieces, ▲ Young man wearing fur 1476
strong legs, and bellies. Women's clothes emphasized their narrow The new fashion is for
1450s slashing garments to reveal
waists, combining wide shoulders and skirts with a deeply pointed Sable, lynx, and other exotic the lining or undergarments.
bodice. The garments of different nations or regions showed greater furs become fashionable, Perhaps from the actions
replacing squirrel furs such of Swiss soldiers following
differentiation, and the religious schism between the Catholic church as miniver and vair. Ermine Battle of Grandson in 1476,
and the reform or Protestant faiths led to the creation of new visual remains the perogative when they patched tattered
of royalty. clothes with fabrics plundered
identities for members of the different faiths. from dead nobles.

Age of exploration
The Ottoman Empire rose in the near East and southeast Europe, after 1450s 1480s
conquering Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul) in 1453, bringing Women's hair is pulled back Men start to wear their hair
Islamic might to the region. Through the 16th century the Spanish from forehead and covered by longer. Blonde hair becomes
a caul (small bag worn over a the vogue in Italy for women.
empire was the richest and most powerful; it began to wane in the bun at the back of the head) Women sit in the sun with
early 17th century as the French became more dominant. This was an or a crespine (mesh net). their hair spread out on
Fashionable women shave circular disk-shaped hats
age of conquests, exploration, and expansion into the Americas, their foreheads and eyebrows. to lighten it. Chemicals are
following Columbus’s arrival in 1492. Other explorers ventured In warmer Italy married women also used to bleach it.
wear their hair long, braided,
around the world opening up sea trading routes around Africa in loose knots, and uncovered. ▲ Wide, square
and Asia, crossing the Pacific and discovering new goods to shoulders
bring back to Europe.
1450s 1509
Dominant personalities Brocade becomes
a luxury fabric
Marriage of Catherine of
Aragon to Henry VIII of
New realism and naturalism in painting meant as weaving England starts a trend for
techniques geometric black-work
that portraits were much more realistic and could improve. The embroidery on linen clothing.
accurately represent individuals and their clothes. best fabric comes Designs are inspired by
Dominant personalities in Europe—Henry VIII from Italy with patterns popular in Spain
Chinese, Indian, and from Moorish culture.
and Elizabeth I in England, Philip II in Spain, Persian motifs reflecting
François I and Henry IV in France, the increased trade with
these countries. ◀ Black-work embroidery
de’Medici dynasty in Florence, and Suleiman the
Magnificent in the Ottoman empire—reinforced their 1490s 1516
◀ Italian brocade dress
position with strong visuals in paintings that portrayed Metal pins cost a penny each Charles V of Spain unites
them in fashionable clothes. Ruffs, in particular, became in Henry VIII's time so fish the Hapsburg territories
bones and thorns are often with Aragon and Castile.
popular. The starching process stiffened cloth and used for sewing. Spain becomes the
allowed the development of very wide ruffs, and lace dominant power in Europe.
Black clothes with rich
became the most luxurious textile to own. In the decoration are favored.
late 16th century heeled shoes were invented.
TIME LINE 079

And I will make thee beds of roses, With a thousand fragrant posies,
A cap of flowers and a kirtle, Embroidered all with leaves of myrtle.
THE PASSIONATE SHEPHERD TO HIS LOVE, CHRISTOPHER MARLOW C.1589

1520–39 1540–59 1560–64 1565–99 1600–20 1621–24


1520 1560-1600 1605 1620s
Spanish Conquistadors Men’s clothes get narrower Hemlines go up to show Colored stockings, especially
defeat the Aztecs in Mexico. on shoulders and longer. feet, following the red ones, become popular.
Cochineal used as a red dye introduction of heeled shoes The newer style of latchet-
is brought back to Europe. for the rich, hence the closing shoe shows off the
expression “well heeled.” hose underneath, and
▼ Collecting cochineal beetles embroidery at the ankle.

1562 1600s 1620s


English legislate against the In lady’s wear, the short Surface ornamentation of
wearing of “monstrous and jacket is introduced. fabrics is replaced by bright,
outrageous greatness of These are initially closed solid-color satins decorated
hose” after fashion for with ribbons, later with metal with rosettes, wide bows,
padding tops of legs reaches hooks and eyes. They are and looped trims. For
ridiculous proportions. worn by all stations of society women, the virago sleeve
but the materials depend on —full slashed sleeve divided
rank. Boned bodices cinch into two puffs at the elbow by
in waist and lift the barely a ribbon or trim—comes in.
covered breasts.

1540 ▲ Pope Pius V wearing


The codpiece reaches its his white habit
peak in terms of size and
decoration. Designed to cover 1566
the gap between the two legs Pope Pius V is credited with
of men's hose, it is padded changing the color of the
and shaped to emphasize papal robes from red to
rather than disguise the white, as he would not give
genital area. up his Dominican habit.

▲ Intricate lacework 1550s 1570s 1600–1650


The chopine, an early Introduction of the Ruffs are replaced by broad
1527 platform overshoe, has French, or “wheel,” collars of lace. Hats become
Mateo Pagano in Italy and been popular since the farthingale, with a stuffed taller and broader with
Pierre de Quinty in Cologne late 15th century. At roll around the hips and brims, sleeves get puffier.
publish the first pattern books this time they reach the a hoop with horizontal
for embroidery and peak of their height stiffeners tied around the
lace making. (20 in/50 cm). waist that makes the skirt
stick out from the body.

◀ Reconstruction of a ▶ The Laughing Cavalier


farthingale underskirt by Franz Hals (1624)

1564 1620 1625


Starching is introduced from English Puritans establish Fashionable married women
the Low Countries and a colony in Plymouth, abandon the wearing of
allows for the development Massachusetts. Somber a cap and wear their hair
of large, stiff ruffs. Starch can colors and tall, black elaborately styled, uncovered,
be colored yellow or blue to capotain hats are worn; or with a hat.
tint the ruff. lacings and jewelry are
forbidden by Puritans.

▲ Punched, kid leather and pine


chopine from Venice, Italy
Wulsthaube (German headgear) made
080 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR of decorative cloth over a large linen
roll in fashionable turban shape

1450 –1500 End of linen veil

THE FASHION
Lacing shows
linen shift
Pleating underneath

SPLIT Shift shows through open


Cuffs
extending
over hands

B
sleeve seam with buttons
y the middle of the 15th century there were marked
regional differences in women’s dress. The medieval
standard one-piece tunic moved toward a broad
spectrum of fashions in cut and construction. As garments
began to separate into pieces, dressmaking played with the Structured
support holds
cut of skirts and sleeves newly liberated from bodices, and up padded roll
incorporated folded collars and laced closures. Head wear
continued trends from earlier in the century but was
Full, circular skirt
becoming spectacularly complex. As the elongated Gothic attached at waist
look disappeared, clothing became softer and wider.
Improved weaving technologies continued to increase Rounded veil Women in Germanic regions kept
a more natural soft shape developed from the
textile production and make fabrics more affordable, medieval houppelande. Rounded lines appeared
especially for the growing, prosperous merchant classes. In in their hats, veils, and necklines. The central panel
Northern Europe fur remained a vital addition for warmth. of pleating gave a neat fullness to the skirt.

Entirely lined
in white fur

HATS AND VEILS Sleeves


Long hair
getting tighter Belt holds tied back
extra fabric
in pleats

Streamer connects
her to fellow dancer

No waistline
High forehead Cylindrical hat

Headdresses often emphasized a woman’s


high, smooth forehead. Many women
bleached their hair to a fashionable blonde,
or plucked their hairline to create a higher
forehead. Cylindrical hats of different lengths Long trailing hem
were stylish in France, Burgundy, England, Silk and
and the Low Countries. They were gold textile
supported by a small cap or wire structure.
Wiring and pins were used to attach fine
veils of silk or linen over the headdress.
Stiffened
bands

Double cornet headdress The


padded roll on this French lady’s Split overgown The trend for visible linen undergarments
headdress creates a split effect like a clamshell. Her began in Spain. In this portrait from 1482 Isabel of Castile’s
ballgown shows the shift from a high houppelande long, white shift sleeves are pulled from a slit in her outer
neckline to the lower V-line one, with less pleating. sleeve. Reinforced horizontal bands help the skirt to stand
She could wear another gown over this one. out—this is the farthingale’s origin.
Nearly THE FASHION SPLIT 081
horizontal hat
Linen veil
covering hair
Hanging sleeves French gowns High forehead
kept the wide, hanging sleeves
of earlier in the century. By 1475 Black hood
Deep collar the natural waistline was marked
with a sash and the kirtle skirt
Visible camisia Arched neckline
(shirt) under was revealed. and overlapping
Red lacing cord
Skirt separate dress front opening
at waist
Gold embroidery Sable fur lining
Long, tight
sleeves White silk
Flowing, loose sash or girdle
silk giornea
(overgown)

Silk brocade Supporting cap


textile Kirtle
skirt

Gown longer than


the wearer — mark
of excess

Brocade gown English women tended to wear Giornea In Italy looser, natural styles began to be
shorter versions of the tall, continental head wear. Lady worn. Florentine women of the 1480s wore a long,
Transparent
Margaret Peyton’s gown flaunts expensive, patterned front-opening giornea tunic draped over a laced silk veil
fabric, and her collar is turned back to frame rich gown with a natural bustline. The matching sleeves
jewelry. Wire keeps her veil in a butterfly shape. are separate and are tied or pinned to the shoulder.
Top of kirtle
Gown visible
Sleeves tie
together and entirely lined
Hair twisted to Wide belt
to the shoulder with fur
become part pulled tight
of headdress Patterned
underdress
visible at bust

Towering headdress The


Burgundian court set a fashion
Plastron for long, pointed headdresses
(underbodice)
shows at worn with gowns with high
bodice top waistlines. The low neckline
reveals the top of the kirtle
Circles cut underneath. The style
Upper and into sleeve
lower echoed the pointed
sleeves tied Gothic architecture.
together

Front opening
held with buttons Heavy fabric
on skirt

Floor-
length
skirt

Split sleeves Fashionable women combined V-neck gown In northern Italian regions such as
many ideas in one ensemble. This French or the city-state of Venice the outer tunic turned into
Flemish lady from just before 1500 wears a high-waisted, V-neck gown. Cuts and slashing
Italian-style split sleeves allowing the chemise in sleeves became inventive. In this reconstruction, Skirt extends into
to spill out of her square-fronted gown. the shift is decoratively pulled through the holes. very long train
RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

RICH
083

PANOPLY
The spectrum of Venetian society—and clothing—at the
end of the 15th century is displayed here in a rich
panorama. The crowds around the Rialto Bridge in 1494
wear an array of styles that reveal something about their
position in society. The gondoliers and young men are at
the height of fashion, with long curled hair and fantastic
displays of ziponi (doublets), jerkins, and camisas (shirts)
bursting from the seams. The calce (hose) patterns are
particularly varied. Their passengers’ dress shows restrained
and better-quality versions of these fashions, sometimes
covered with looser open robes. On land and crossing the
bridge are the patrician professional men, members of
guilds and government. They wear baretas (small round
caps) and vestas (long, sober, official gowns) in red or black
with a wide-sleeve style called a dogale.

Visitors from Islamic lands, who traded with Venice, can


be distinguished by their turbans. Two Jewish men are
clothed in black hats and Oriental silks. On the balcony
are Dominican monks in white and clerical men in red robes
under white albs. Few women are out in public, although
they can be glimpsed in windows and beating an expensive
“Turkey” carpet on the roof. Linen shirts and other items
normally hidden from view can be seen drying on roof poles.

The sea not only brought the city her


prosperity, but...Venetian painters
were inspired to record the dazzling
effects of light on the buildings and
bridges that line the canals...the
bustle of canal traffic, the gondolas...
and merchant vessels.
WILL DURANT, THE RENAISSANCE, 1953

◁ CLOTHES PARADE BY THE RIALTO BRIDGE


This detail from Vittore Carpaccio’s painting The Miracle of the Relic
of the True Cross (1494) shows a cross section of 15th-century
Venetian society dressed in the fashions of the day.
084 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR
Round cap
1450 –1500 Mi-parti

RENAISSANCE MEN
(two-part)
colored robe

F
Visible lacing
rom the 1480s new broad shapes began to replace the last traces
of the medieval in men’s clothing. Instead of an emphasis on a
long, vertical male figure, the Renaissance man, with his earthier, Sword, dagger,
and hunting purse
artistic, and scientific pursuits and a new interest in classical ideas,
favored blunt and square forms that expanded sideways.
Soldiers’ and statesmen’s cropped hair grew into the long,
natural locks of poets and scholars. Men began to wear
collections of clothing as an ensemble and used
surfaces, fabrics, and edges as decorative spaces. Mid-length
robe
Places where clothes connected—in seams, the
tops of sleeves, and under lacing—revealed layers
underneath. Though pleating continued, natural
folds reappeared using the elegant drape of Pantofle
slippers with
circular pieces to great effect. open backs

Wide and square All the elements of


a new style were in place by 1490 in
France—broad shoulders, flat-toed Hunting livery The two colors in this young
shoes, copious draping, and a Frenchman’s robe were probably livery,
wide neckline. The loose outer showing his employment by a lord. The lacing
gown hides the close-fitting fastening the front was now visible. The collar
doublet and hose. and sleeves showed a careful cut and fit.

Soft cap
High collar with stripes
on doublet
Belt with
decorated purse
Gold chain
of office Cropped
doublet
Open sleeves
caught with
clasps Sleeve opened
at the seam
reveals undershirt
Sleeves
rolled up
Intricate silk
brocade

Beautifully
decorated hose

Decoratively
patterned hose

Shoes becoming
Leopard less pointed
fur lining

Short robe, long toes Serving the king Decorative elements Northern European
at the table was an honor for English lords. youths flaunted fashion knowledge by blending
This man’s sword shows his knightly position. new Italian influences such as long, curling hair
The exaggerated long toes of poulaine Wide-toed shoes and a slashed doublet sleeve with local styles.
shoes were very fashionable at court. The short doublet was a sign of youth.
RENAISSANCE MEN 085

Padded, round
hat with jeweled
Wool hat with
roundels and an
Full pleated long liripipe
idealized crown
shoulders
Gold collar
of authority Gold and silk
Silk and silver brocade
velvet doublet
Pleated
hanging
Open hanging sleeve
sleeves

Elaborate
horse
trappings

Evenly
pleated skirt

Parti-colored Fur lining Red hose


hose
expensively
dyed
Pattens with
Long, wooden soles
pointed Shoes part of
toes hose legs

Black velvet robe Charles the Bold’s outfit Knee-length robe Sumptuary laws in The power of gold Lorenzo de’ Medici, the
picked up on the popularity of black through many cities regulated what people in each Magnificent, reflected the power of his Florentine
the century. Rich, true blacks were difficult to social level could wear. This noble Florentine banking family c.1460 in clothing woven with gold.
dye and displayed a subtle expensive quality. man used his outer gown’s open sleeves to Even his riding accessories were elaborately wrought
His large chaperon (hat) was stuffed for shape. flaunt the costly Italian velvet underneath. and made from gold to reveal his social position.

Soft,
Wide, soft hat round LIFE CHANGES
cap

Folded-back
Loose cuffs collar

Visible shirt
and lacing Gloves

Velvet robe
Thigh-length robe
of youth

Unstructured cut

Sword of As a man moved through each stage of life,


nobility his clothing changed to reveal his place in
society. Active young men wore short, fitted
Round-toed doublets and robes revealing shapely thighs.
shoes
In adult maturity, around 25, the hemline
started creeping farther down the thigh. By
middle and old age hemlines reached the
floor. Longer and darker robes enhanced
New naturalism English clothing also became Royal simplicity By contrast with displays dignity for professional and political men,
less structured and more naturalistic. This man, of wealth and excess, a ruler such as Juan II of and for those who did not do manual labor,
with his youthful clothing and cheerful expression, Portugal chose to dress simply and elegantly. such as scholars and doctors. The floor-
embodies the sanguine, optimistic character The red silk velvet of his doublet is a valuable length robes also kept them warm.
described in medieval science and medicine. textile despite its restrained use.
086 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR Long hair draped
around head

1500 –1560 Black velvet gollar

FROM DRAPE
(shoulder cape)
Embroidered
breast-band

TO SHAPE False lining


to make

S
puffs of silk
oft, draped lines began to disappear as the century went on. Women’s
dress had two main parts: bodice and skirt, and sleeves were often
separate too. The gradual move from clothing that draped over the
body to clothing that shaped it was complete. Only outer robes and coats
were now waistless. Full skirts widened with gathered and pleated
waistlines. Outer skirts were opened up in front to reveal a petticoat or Nonfunctional,
pleated linen apron
forepart underneath. The Spanish farthingale (a hooped petticoat) created
a bell shape and defined the century’s silhouette. Bodices became smooth
and fitted by adding stiff materials inside. While the torso straightened,
Tight, vertical
sleeves grew larger and more elaborate. pleats in skirt

Heavily pleated skirt The 15th-century


Round “French hood” obsession with pleating continued in
comes under ears and
sits back over braids Germanic fashions. This woman’s dress
is laced open in the front and has
Shoulder
straps an embroidered breastband under
her gollar (shoulder cape).
Translucent
linen partlet
Square neckline
Earlier black hood
evolved into lappets
(decorative folds)

Pointed front
makes waist Straight,
look smaller horizontal
neckline
Half-sleeves with
shift showing

Gown fully
lined with DEFINED SHAPE
ermine fur

Rich forepart with


pearls matches
undersleeves

Conical, stiff body Wired headdress


with farthingale support Gable headdress
underneath

Gown skirt still


Fashion became architectural as the century
softly draped progressed. Strong, new shapes distinct
from body lines were built over supports
that kept the garments taut and straight.
The English gable headdress used wire
underneath to turn the 15th-century hood
into a sharp peak. Spanish women began
to wear horizontal willow hoops called
Triangular shapes Catherine Parr, last wife of Henry Fur-lined silk gown The huge sleeves of the vertugado (farthingale) under their skirts to
VIII, shows off the smooth, triangular shapes achieved Duchesse d’Etampes’ 1540 French gown are make them stand out. Stiffened bodices
by reinforced support beneath outer clothing. The turned back to reveal an expensive ermine fur flattened the bosom, creating an inflexible
silver-gilt fabric of this gown from 1545 is woven lining. While her gown trails on the floor, torso like an inverted triangle.
with a large pomegranate pattern. the kirtle skirt is ankle length.
FROM DRAPE TO SHAPE 087
Curved
headdress
popular on
continent Robe with high Natural hair
Visible
collar open camisia held by snood
Open neck shows
over gown off fine linen collar (shirt)
Sleeves
of kirtle
(underdress)
show Overlapping Strong, vertical
front closing slashes Strong color
Straight, contrast
Girdle stiff torso
Ermine fur emphasizes Voluminous
trimmed waist and hips sleeves
sleeve Rounded, soft,
natural lines

Lustrous silk satin

Decorated
hem

Taffeta dress

Softly draped dress This Flemish dress from c.1500 Satin and taffeta The smooth, tight bodice contrasts Gown with large sleeves Even without
shows the soft, early version of a style that became with the sumptuous, light-catching folds of this Italian extra reinforcement, tightly woven silks
rigid in form as the century progressed. The torso is dress from c.1555. The red overgown’s short sleeves had a stiffness and body that gave an angular
natural in shape, and the sleeve cuffs are large. The have fine silk puffs between the panes of fabric. bulk, here painted by Venetian artist Titian.
woman’s long mantle (cloak) covers her trailing skirts.
Tocas de
cabos hairstyle LINEN SHIRTS
French-style hood Imperial colors The Empress Maria —braid ends
contrasts with peaked pinned up
and her daughter wear Spanish-style
English gable headdress
dresses in the Austrian Habsburg
court in 1553. The contrast between Gathered collar
Partlet (neck covering black and white was used in both is start of ruff
with collar) covers
décolletage
austere and extravagant
fashions across Europe.
Gown sleeves
have huge
turned-back cuff Black
velvet ropa
Girdle
accentuates
waist

Open gown
reveals forepart Beneath every elaborate gown a linen
or kirtle undergarment was worn next to the skin.
It was known by many names: English
smock, shift, or shirt; French chemise;
Italian camisia; Spanish camisa; and
Long girdle ends German hemd. This was an essential layer
in pomander over
cloth-of-gold kirtle skirt because linen could be washed and it
protected outer garments (which were never
Decorative
ribbons with washed) from the body. When clothing
jeweled points started to reveal this layer, emphasis on the
Royal splendor In the 1550s Queen Mary I continued linen quality and delicate embroidery around
to wear the English court styles popular during her the neck and cuffs increased. Sleeves
father’s reign, unlike her more fashionable sister, became bigger to create abundant billows
Elizabeth. Women could cover their neck and bust Applied panels emerging from gowns.
with separate partlets in fine or heavy fabrics. of slashed satin
088 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

1500 –1560

NEW MEN IN
Knit cap

A NEW WORLD Shovel-shaped


White fur used as
contrasting trim

A
beard

s conquest, exploration, and wars expanded the known world,


men’s fashion broadened too. Clothing expressed an
assertive, confident masculinity through bulky layers
that increased a man’s physical presence. Huge shoulders,
broad chests, prominent codpieces, and an emphasis on
the thighs all enhanced a sense of the active body. The
legs usually peeped out below knee-length skirted robes
and jerkins and the newly separate breeches and hose.
Clothing complexity increased as linings and shirts burst
through deliberately cut and slashed outer garments.
Embroidery and lines of braid also helped enrich the
surfaces of clothing, largely replacing patterned textiles.

Leather or wool
coat with skirt Silk and fur hats
Satin doublet with
rough cuts

Variety of
hairstyles

Doublet laced
open over shirt

Knee-length Jerkin with


breeches deep, triangular
opening and
skirt

Boots
that look
like
shoes
Solid, square silhouette Holbein the
Younger’s 1533 portrait of a French
Three layers of men’s dress These early ambassador epitomizes the fashionable
16th-century Italian musicians wear a big-sleeved solid, rectangular shape. Round puffed
doublet and hose (center), a bulky coat with a sleeves create massive shoulders, while the Broad, domed
toes on shoes
separate skirt cut on the circle (left), and, over lines of his cap, skirt, shoes, and spread-out
the whole, an armhole cloak with fur collar (right). pose all emphasize the horizontal.
NEW MEN IN A NEW WORLD 089
Flat, round cap
Hair
shortening Blackwork
Gold jewelry embroidery on
visible shirt Expensive
red textiles
Excessively
wide
shoulders
Strong vertical
lines of
decoration
and cut Torso getting
more rigid

Color contrast
of layers
Dagger, sword,
Codpiece and sword belt

Heavy cutting
and slashing Soft lining
on every under panes
(strips) of
Excess and display A Flemish man of
surface
breeches the 1520s takes stylish width to extremes
with his outer clothing wider than it is
Breeches extend high. His skirted velvet jerkin covers the
below knee White leather shoes top of the breeches, and its wide front
with slashing
and pinking opening reveals a matching doublet.
Low, square-toed
slippers

Fashionable slashing It is thought the craze Focus on thighs Breeches or upper hose
for slitting clothing surfaces came from soldiers ranged in fit from skintight to extremely loose
cutting plundered garments to make them fit. In and baggy. By 1548 the jerkin skirts on
this 1514 portrait, Henry IV, Duke of Saxony, wears Archduke Ferdinand of Tirol had shrunk into
a whole suit slashed to reveal the inner lining. small panes, flaunting the codpiece and thighs. THE CODPIECE
Doublet
front under
scoop-neck Collar and revers
jerkin Jewels and feather
turned back
in velvet cap
As a horse was a sign
of power, horseback
pose suggests leadership
and action Semicircular
short cloak

Lots of linear
braids emphasize
clothing shapes

Codpiece

The origins of the codpiece lie in the triangle


of fabric used to join the two separate hose
legs in the late 15th century when doublets
Fur-lined shortened. Soon padding was added and
outer coat Royal fleur-de-lys ended up as the codpiece—a prominent,
emblem suggestive shape filling the gap between
the legs of the breeches. It soon became a
normal part of male clothing, in style across
many countries and social levels until the
Paned decoration In this reconstruction, Monochrome monarch Henri II of France, end of the 1500s. Tailors became as
the deep U-shaped jerkin front goes over one of the age’s dominant personalities, creative with codpiece shapes as with other
a doublet made of fabric panes (strips) exploited the stark drama of black and white, clothing details. The codpiece could hide a
joined by buttons. The sleeves are also with severe gold decoration, in a mid-16th- pocket or even be used as a pincushion.
made of panes. century portrait of sovereign power.
090 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

COAT, DOUBLET, AND HOSE Wide, straight lapels


show off applied

SAXONY
parallel bands of
Doublet front bias-cut dark velvet
curves gently

ENSEMBLE
T
his unique and extraordinary set of
mid-16th-century clothes belonged to
Maurice, Elector of Saxony from 1547
to 1553. It is the most complete—and oldest
surviving—example of real fashion from the
period. The princely ensemble comprises a
short, round, pleated coat with puffed and
hanging sleeves, a satin doublet, puffed and
slashed trunk hose, and chamois or suede
hose. Yellow silks accented with black velvet
are an extravagant reflection of the heraldic
colors of the Saxon state. Using bands of
fabric in this way to decorate clothing was
fashionable throughout the 16th century. The
almost square, imposing silhouette matches
exactly with the aristocratic masculine
fashions seen in many paintings of the time.

Doublet sleeves have


horizontal bands of silk
and large diagonal cuts

Satin Slashed
doublet sleeves

All bands edged


with silver-gilt
cords

Prominent
codpiece is made
of silk velvet and
stuffed into shape

Chamois or suede
hose have leather
soles and a gusset
FRONT VIEW BACK VIEW below the ankle to
WITHOUT COAT WITHOUT COAT shape the foot

△ TRUNK HOSE
The trunk hose are made of panes of silk velvet on the
bias, slashed diagonally so the cuts appear straight.
Each strip is bound in satin. Inside, pieces of satin are
crumpled down to give the fashionable puffed effect. SIDE VIEW
SAXONY ENSEMBLE 091

Large square collar

IN DETAIL
continues from the front
and emphasizes the
shoulder width

Back of high collar is


cut in one piece with ◁ KNOTTED SILK BUTTONS
the back of the doublet
The buttons closing the front
of the doublet are made by
wrapping a wood core with
a herringbone pattern of silk
thread. The shank is very long to
raise the decorative part above
the strain of the buttonholes,
which are stitched in silk thread.

◁ SILK DAMASK
The stunning yellow silk is
damask woven: this means the
massive, rounded pomegranate
pattern is made by contrasting
the matte and sheen of two
directions of weaving that catch
the light differently. It was more
expensive than a plain weave.

◁ PUFFED SHOULDERS
By alternating straight strips of
black velvet with the damask to
form puffs, the shoulders are
made bigger. Increasing the
volume across the torso was
popular in the early 16th century.
It added bulk and an imposing
presence. Laces on the inside
hold up the puffs.

◁ PASSEMENTERIE KNOTS
On the end of the hanging
sleeves are cross shapes of Italian
passementerie—cord, knot,
and tassel work made from silk.
The vegetable-dyed colors have
faded from the original violet.
The pale parts of the knots are
Hanging sleeves are
largely decorative, entwined with silver-gilt
with armholes thread to catch the light.
halfway down

◁ EVEN FOLDS
Coat is nearly The elegant hang of the coat
a full circle with the is created by deep pleats. In
width pleated into German regions at this time,
the shoulders
both men’s and women’s clothing
used huge quantities of round,
even pleats. The contrasting
color bands form an arresting
horizontal against the strong
vertical lines.
Feathered cap
092 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

1450 –1624

CUSTOM-MADE
Paned and
puffed sleeves
Pike

ARMOR Close helmet


with visor

W
hile medieval knights wore surcoats over mail
or armor, their Renaissance counterparts
wanted to show off the splendor of their full
swordproof plate. Each suit was unique—reflected in the
cost—and increasingly decorated with gilding, inlay,
or battle scenes. Since the armor fit perfectly, the Striped
Colors
may have
substantial weight (about 55 lb/25 kg) was hose distinguished
one company
evenly distributed. The knight could move from another
freely and mount and dismount his horse
without help—once his servants had
undertaken the lengthy task of putting
the suit on. The use of full plate armor
waned as the 16th century wore on, Swiss mercenary The highly skilled
pikemen were greatly in demand as paid
and handguns replaced swords infantry troops. Swiss soldiers, like this
as the weapon of choice. one in 1530, set fashion trends with their
bright, color-coordinated doublet and
hose slashed into exaggerated shapes.

Together with the sallet


Complete head
helmet, the bevor (neck
and neck cover
piece) offers full head
protection

Vulnerable join
covered with
besagaw (round
armpit shield)

Detachable
plackart gives
extra protection

Sections
buckled Gold
Full suit of armor Made
together decoration
for Sir Thomas Sackville by Sabatons end at
the Royal Workshop in tip of toe unlike
Greenwich, this steel, 15th-century
pointed ones
leather, gold, and copper
alloy suit, c.1590, weighs
a hefty 81 lb (36.7 kg)
with its plackart.
Broadsword

Complete protection A knight Made to measure This 16th-century


in full armor did not need to carry suit of armor was made for Henry VIII
a shield. Mail under the plate or when he was past his youthful slimness.
sewn into joins covered potentially Armor was custom made for a snug fit,
vulnerable points. so it was extremely expensive.
Broad flat hat
crowned with
large feathers
CUSTOM-MADE ARMOR 093

Shirt and lining Raised pauldron Bellows visor


puffs show through protects shoulder —ventilation
slashed doublet holes cut in

Besagaw
shields
armpit

Couter covers
elbow
Mail
under
plate

Thin fluting
on cuisse

Hose in
banded
Plain
colors Poleyn gives
Broadsword greave
indicates an elite knee defense
soldier—most
Landsknechts
had pikes

Landsknecht German “land servants,” Italian armor The rigidity of plate armor German full plate armor Visually
c.1500, probably based their costume on provided better defense against swords pleasing as well as functional, this cuirass
their rival Swiss mercenaries. Their flamboyant than medieval mail. In 1534 Alessandro (breastplate) of 1520 is sharply pulled in at
dress typified the Renaissance. They wore de’ Medici wears a suit of armor with the waist like men’s clothing, and fluting
multicolored hose and slashed their doublets articulated steel plates that allow him imitates pleated material. Mitten-type
open to reveal their shirts and linings. to move his arms and legs. gauntlets protect the hands.

Helmet fit
Domed
shoulder
HELMET TYPES
Gold with huge crest plate called
decoration a pauldron Sallets were typical of northern Europe from
the mid-15th century. They fit the head
except for a point to protect the back of the
neck. Close helmets enclosed the head but
Accents of red
set off black,
were light enough to allow movement. They
white, and gold had full visors, neck, and chin guards and
color scheme became more ornate as their battlefield
function lessened. Jousting helmets had
Ruffles at cuff
sloping sides to deflect lance blows.
match frilled
shirt collar

Over-the-knee
German sallet 15th-century
boot held up helmet, 1480–1510 jousting helmet
with straps

Spurs worn
over boots

Philip II of Spain By the late 16th White knight Robert Radcliffe, Earl of
century full plate armor was less Sussex, wears English armor designed for
common. Philip confined himself to tournaments in this painting detail c.1593. Italian close French close
a gold-embellished cuirass, worn more The earl has unprotected legs since fighting helmet, c.1570 helmet, 1575
for ceremony than practical protection. often took place over a barrier.
094 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

1560 –1590

ELEGANT
Spanish saya In the 1570s Anna of
Austria, Queen of Spain, wore an
elegant black saya (gown) with white

FORMALITY
accents and lavish embroidery. The
High collar
gown’s long, pointed sleeves and with small ruff
subtle fit earned Spanish tailors
international repute. Doublet worn
underneath

A
Silver and gold
s the century progressed so the gradual stiffening of women’s dress embroidery
continued. The increasingly rigid garments needed extra support,
and separate boned “pairs of bodies” (stiff undergarments) worn
under gowns started to appear—the beginning of stays and corsetry.
Linear bands and braids followed the clothing’s sharp lines and
emphasized its control of body shape. The body’s natural lines rarely
appeared. The rise and power of the Spanish empire made their severe
formality and clever tailoring fashionable, although in many Italian areas
a more relaxed soft look held sway. Ruffs slowly widened and became
separate from shirt collars. Labor-intensive lace made its first appearance
and became a mark of luxury—similar to velvets or jewels. Necklines were
either at bust level or up to the chin. The silhouette stayed triangular with
narrow waists ending in sharp points and full skirts. The tops of sleeves of
women's dresses started to be styled into puffs, tabs, and rolls. Male and
female fashions followed similar trends of adornments, cut, and color.

Fashionably
ACCESSORIES blonde hair
Low neckline
with open
Oriental-
The 16th century saw an increase in the partlet
style veil
variety and adornment of accessories for
both men and women. Gloves, made of the
finest leather, could be embroidered, and
were given as tokens of respect and
affection. Fans were popular in hot countries.
Linen handkerchiefs were a splendid way to
show off the new techniques of needle and
bobbin lace. When shoes became visible,
their heels and rosettes became equally
decorative. Silk and gold ribbons,
used in abundance if possible,
were also a form of accessory
because of their high price.

Embroidered gloves

Feathered
Italian fan

Softer lines This Venetian bride’s bodice is rigid Jeweled aiglets Handkerchief
and pointed, but her skirt, sleeves, and posture are (ribbon tips) with edged with
silk ribbons needle lace
softer and more relaxed than northern European
fashions. Venetian women wore chopines (platform
shoes with cork soles) for extra height.
ELEGANT FORMALITY 095

Hairnet and
Soft hat with fabric cap
feathers Small, neatly
starched ruff
and cuffs
Ruff matches
cuffs on sleeves Top of sleeves Sheer partlet
puffed covers chest

Fur-lined
sleeved cloak

Hanging sleeves,
Applied bands Skirt separate similar to
Waist girdle
emphasize from doublet men's style
reaches hem
vertical lines

Robe entirely Pleated skirt


lined with mink

Masculine style This Flemish ensemble shows Saxon Anne, Electress of Saxony, in this German woman Other than her head wear, this
how the cut and tailoring of female dress painting from c.1565, wears a short-sleeved noblewoman’s dress keeps up with fashion in
borrowed from male clothing. The doublet has fitted robe over a low-necked gown. Her heavy Europe. She wears petticoats without the rigidity
horizontal braid, front buttoning, and shoulder gold jewelry, pleated skirt, and hairnet with cap of a farthingale. Women below her class or in rural
tabs just like a man’s. are typically Saxon. areas dressed in more regional style.

Curved
French hood HAIRSTYLES
Arched
bodice front
Chemise New clothes were costly and time
String of pearls shows at consuming but hair could be changed every
neckline
Typical way of day. Another example of the inventive
draping pearls Renaissance love of finery, women’s hair
during the 16th century was parted in the
Sleeves increasing center, swept over the temples, curled,
Jeweled in size again
bracelets
crimped, arranged over pads to keep the
and girdle shape, frizzled, bewigged, piled into high
Soft folds contrast peaks, or hidden. In Italy, bleaching hair
Silk damask with Spanish blonde was particularly popular, as in the
severity drawing of the Venetian woman below.
Hair on the back of the head was curled up
in braids and became a support for hats and
headdresses, attached with pins. Women
added jewels, ribbons, and feathers, like the
Cloth-of-gold ribbons perched on Anne of Denmark’s
petticoat fluffy mounds of hair.

Red and gold This sumptuous gown of c.1575 Married French noblewoman Mature women
has an open front over a Spanish farthingale. The covered more of their heads, and widows were
short oversleeves could be supported with boning, totally veiled. This gown’s soft, full skirts are lifted
wire, or wood to create their shape. The sleeves above a narrower petticoat. The partlet’s open Venetian woman Anne of Denmark
and shoulders are encrusted with embroidery. collar is the predecessor of a standing ruff.
RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR 097

FASHION ICON

ELIZABETH I
D
aughter of Anne Boleyn and Henry VIII, Elizabeth I gold, and silver to complement her pure white complexion
ruled England between 1558 and 1603. She and ruddy hair color. She adopted black and white as her
inherited many of her father’s characteristics, personal colors—a dramatic background for her jewelry
including clever use of image and clothing to cement and long, elegant fingers. A poet described her as coming
power and excite the adoration of her people. Her in “like starlight, thick with jewels.” Other symbolic items
wardrobe was legendary, recorded in portraits that included a phoenix pendant—the fabled bird that rose
publicized the Protestant queen’s self-made mythology. from the ashes and spoke of the Queen’s uniqueness,
Some of her gowns even went on display in the Tower power, and chastity.
of London during her lifetime to impress foreign visitors. If her dress sometimes appeared overwhelmingly
Her shrewdness, intelligence, and ruthlessness made her magnificent to foreign tastes, from the 1560s Elizabeth’s
a political force, just as the magnificence of huge ruffs dominant personality, expressed through clothing,
trimmed with devastatingly expensive handmade lace, breathed new life into fashion—it was much more
enormous embroidered sleeves, and large, structured, staid and darker before her reign. She encouraged
bejeweled stomachers turned her into a glittering her courtiers to dress splendidly—especially the
fashion icon who loved to be admired. men, who could win her favors with an elegant
leg, beautiful clothes, and flattering gifts of
The language of dress gloves, gauzy scarves, and rare jewels.
Elizabeth emphasized her tall, slender frame— With such a monarch, 16th-century English
and her status—with regal headdresses. French people embraced lavish fashions. Although none
hoods and jeweled caps were the perfect foil to of Elizabeth’s clothing survives, account books
set off her flaming red hair. An iconic hairstyle unfold luscious descriptions of the queen of △ THE RAINBOW PORTRAIT C.1600
saw her curls twisted over supports to frame fashion’s staggering wardrobe. In this late portrait in mask costume,
her face like a heart with two large puffs on Elizabeth wears a fantastic headdress
inspired by an engraving of Greek
either side. Haloes of pearls and gold A royal legacy women’s dress. The eyes and ears
outlined the edges of the hairstyle. Elizabeth’s self-fashioning was so painted on her mantle and the jeweled
Symbolism made Elizabeth’s dress and successful that she remains an icon in serpent on her sleeve may symbolize
accessories even more compelling. Pearls— modern times. Her image has been fame and wisdom respectively. She holds
worn as long ropes, seed pearls, and pendant developed in movies and television series a rainbow, seen in many of her clothes,
perhaps suggesting heavenly ideals.
drops—were a favorite. As a symbol of purity and inspired designers. The tight bodices,
and chastity they were most appropriate for this Virgin bold shapes, huge ruffs, and regal aura have fed
Queen who put her nation before personal happiness. into the work of fashion designers as diverse as Jean
She wears them in almost every portrait from the age Paul Gaultier, Martin Margiela, and Vivienne
of 13, when she was painted wearing sumptuous red Westwood. Westwood, for example, has showcased ◁ DRESS BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

silk damask and furs. Her love of fashion, ornament, slashed fabric, large, regal gowns, ruffs, and The enduring influence of Elizabeth I is
clear in this McQueen dress. It features
luxury velvets, damasks, and brocades as well as her enormous collars, while many generally “futurist” a high neck ruff and sleeves with the
use of striking colors finally found expression when fashions feature arrestingly angular shapes built-up shoulder and narrow, trimmed
she became queen at 25. Elizabeth favored red, reminiscent of Elizabethan style. cuff reminiscent of Elizabethan gowns.

1533 Born at 1558 ▽ Becomes queen. Her coronation 1559 Becomes head of the 1580s Inspires English c.1595 ▽
Greenwich, near robes of 1559 were of cloth-of-gold (fabric Church of England, replacing trends for extravagant, Embraces all the new
London woven with gold-wrapped thread) trimmed her sister Mary’s Catholicism exaggerated dress fashions, like larger ruffs seen
TIME LINE

with ermine, with a tight, pointed bodice with the Protestant faith in this gold pound coin
1581 Knights Francis 1603 Dies
1536 Her mother, Anne Drake on his return at Richmond,
Boleyn, is executed. Elizabeth 1560s Taking a lead from from a world voyage. near London
is declared illegitimate. A later Elizabeth's delight in clothes, Trade links foster the
Act of Parliament restores her English fashions become more fashion for exotic fabrics
right to succeed to the throne decorated and full of novelty and ornament

1530 1550 1570 1590 1610

◁ THE PELICAN PORTRAIT C.1575 Attributed to Nicholas Hilliard, this painting shows the queen wearing a pelican pendant.
The pelican was thought to feed her young with her own blood, representing Elizabeth's role as mother of her people.
098 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR
Hair in two
arches over
temples
1590 –1625

FEMALE
Neck area
covered
by partlet

GEOMETRY
Stomacher

Large sleeves
with pinking Pointed,
stiffened

W
bodice
ith the onset of the 17th century every
aspect of women’s clothes became highly
exaggerated—and borrowed heavily from
masculine styles. Fashion history’s most geometric
period created unnatural silhouettes made from
straight lines, triangles, and circles. Huge ruffs isolated
head from body, or open collars revealed décolletages
cut immodestly low. The French farthingale (a wheel-
shaped support worn over the hips) made women Stiffened
the widest and squarest they had ever been. It also open collar

shortened hems to make feet—in new, heeled


shoes—visible for the first time. These skirts
marked France’s ascent as Europe’s fashion
leader. Around 1620 a new naturalism appeared
Triangular stomacher In the
and styles relaxed again. By 1625 the long, Stiff petticoat
with less 1580s as the woman’s upper
pointed “bodies” (bodice) had been virtually fabric garment (bodice) lengthened
replaced by a natural waistline, and and the gown opened, the
Revealing
central space was covered
petticoats took over from farthingales. bust line
with a triangular piece called
a stomacher. It was another
French surface to embellish.
farthingale
Masculine-style
hat with lace Tightly fitted
sleeves like
men’s doublet

Widest size
Extended, of double ruff,
curved bodice starched blue
front Ribbon rosette
as decoration
Silk taffeta
skirt with gold
embroidery Silk brocade with
silver and gold
threads

French farthingale Anne of


Denmark, the English queen,
epitomizes women’s fashion
in the early 17th century
with a low, round neck,
transparent, lacy collars and
cuffs, and carnation-colored
accents. The farthingale’s
Silk petticoat
tabletop effect has
showing
transformed her
Cartwheel ruff Flemish artist Rubens painted gown’s silhouette.
his wife, Isabella Brandt, wearing this huge ruff
edged with lace. Ruffs achieved their greatest
width in the Low Countries, where starching
Skirt’s length taken up
techniques originated. The low, curved bodice by farthingale; shoes
front also became a regional style. Large, dyed feather fan visible for first time
Open, starched
FEMALE GEOMETRY 099
lace collar with
supportasse (support)
SLASHING

Round Deep,
sleeves split double ruff
horizontally Ceremonial
velvet mantle
Black unbroken Buttons mirror with ermine lining
by decoration men’s doublet

Tabbed Elongated
waist bodice

Ornamental
handkerchief

Body hidden
from neck Satin
to hem pinked
all over
Deliberately cutting into textiles was one of
the defining features of Renaissance fashion.
The slashes could be long and careless,
or neatly cut lines that gaped to reveal
underclothing. Isabel de Valois’s spectacular
The triangle’s apex In the 1590s Spanish hairstyles Pinned into shape At the time of this painting in red wedding dress has slashed sleeves with
rose to a point, completing the triangular effect of the 1605 women’s clothing was held together with pins. bound edges. Pinking—cutting zigzag or
costume. Infanta Isabella Clara Eugenia’s high neckline The Countess of Southampton’s ladies would have rippled lines, or making small, neat regular
and bell-shaped skirt were a contrast to revealing pinned her gown up over the farthingale, her holes—was particularly popular on leather.
squarer fashions in neighboring countries. stomacher to her stays, and her collar open.

Shoulders and
Diadem with waist lengthened
white feathers with tabs

Double
Ruff, cuffs, ruff breaks
and shift triangular line
Yellow-starched,
flat, lace collar show off lace

Embroidered Waistline
linen waistcoat nearly at
natural level
Small-scale
Velvet mantle with motifs
brocade lining,
worn like a man’s Floor-length,
pointed sleeves

Italian silk skirt


embroidered with
Mix of straight gold opens to reveal
lines and circles embroidered petticoat
on petticoat

Petticoats replace
farthingale

Large ribbon and lace Embroidered


rosettes on shoes leather shoes

Smooth lines for a masque The Countess Softening shape This English portrait shows how, Surfaces and angles Spanish dress was slower
of Hertford has composed an allegorical ensemble around 1620, fashion’s inflexibility started to yield. to change than other nation’s fashions. The planes
from the less formal petticoat and a linen waistcoat, The exquisitely embroidered gown is still linear with of clothing became even more rigid and angular.
worn over stays to create a smooth torso. Both are pattern on every surface, but is more softly draped, Surfaces became smoother and inflexible, showing
elaborately embroidered with stylized forms. with gathers and curves. off the colors, textures, and decoration.
100 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

1550 –1590 Sleeve

A NEW SUIT
puffed at
top

B
Jeweled aglets
y the late 16th century a “three-piece suit” of doublet, jerkin, and hose (tags)
with a cloak or robe over the top was worn uniformly by European men. Generous padding
Breeches, trunk hose, and upper stocks were names for trousers in and shaping

an increasing variety of styles—split-leg garments were definitively


male. Although the silhouette moved closer to the rounded
lines of the body, careful tailoring and padding helped
exaggerate masculine areas such as shoulders, groin, and
thighs. Even the most dashing, virile men enjoyed using Gold embroidery
elaborate textiles and accessories such as earrings,
Horizontal braid
pendants, feathers, and embroidery to express on doublet helps
Calf turned
hold shape
themselves. The dandy and the adventurer out in “making
a leg” stance
coexisted happily; elegant men were expected Clean,
to dance and write poetry as well as tailored
lines
fence, ride, or take a role in politics. Slashed white
leather shoes
were popular

Light and shade This portrait of Philip II of


Spain shows how the earlier wide shoulders
Beginning of begin to narrow from the 1550s. The dramatic
peascod (padded effect of contrasting and extensive gold
Leather hat—crown “pouter pigeon”) belly
getting higher embroidery enhance his prestige.

Small flat cap


Puffed
sleeves on
Prominent
outer gown
codpiece

Separate ruff

Doublet front
starting to Braid
curve out defines
edges
Clear division
between each
body part

Paned
Long cloak for breeches
weather protection

Tightly fitting
silk stockings

Travel wear Water-resistant longer cloaks covered Spanish style The horizontal lines decorating the Elegant posing This Venetian man’s counterpoint
valuable clothing and unprotected legs. Hats kept in doublet of Don Carlos of Spain in 1564 are typical of pose suggests classical grace. Wearing clothes well
warmth and brims deflected rain. This Low Countries the Spanish style. Lines of stitching and heavy braid was as important as the clothes themselves. His
gentleman from around 1580 wears a skirted jerkin reinforce the shape. His satin cloak has bands of slashed entirely black ensemble accentuates his pale legs
that nearly covers his breeches. black velvet as subtle decoration. just as the white collar highlights his face.
A NEW SUIT 101
Knit cap Cap in local style

Longer beard
for older man
Black background
sets off gold
embroidery
Frayed edges

Gold jewelry
popular in
Saxony
Cut
hanging Figured
sleeve satin jerkin
Older style
and doublet
of coat

Sleeves cut to
Holding natural arm bend
gloves
Breeches
lining drops
below knee

Flat shoes

Longer robes As in the Middle Ages, older Complete ensemble In this painting from the mid-1560s
men tended to wear longer robes and outer August, Elector of Saxony, has wide embroidered gold
garments. This Germanic man of about 1580 wears bands delineating the edges of his cloak, skirted jerkin,
a short robe and drooping breeches that would and paned breeches, which emphasize the shapes of his
have looked dated to fashionable contemporaries. Lutheran clothing. Like Catholic rulers, he favors black.

Doublet tied under Vertical cuts


shoulder roll Small, ruffled on jerkin
collar
Velvet canions
Cloak with (tight-fitting
tabbed edges knee-breeches)
embroidered
with silver
Codpiece
with bow

Trunk hose with


pinked panes
Exaggerated
(strips of cloth)
hips with stuffed
upper hose
Nether hose
Long, Knit hose (stockings)
slim legs with garters worn over
upper hose

Slashed shoes

Outrageous hose In France breeches were Cutting on every surface This drawing of Statesman in red In this 1560 painting, Italian Gian
nearly spherical. A 1562 English statute a German man from the 1570s combines most Gerolamo Grumelli wears red from head to foot, though
legislated against “monstrous and outrageous types of decoratively cut cloth in his ensemble. each element is subtly different. A variety of textiles—
greatness of hose” and fined those who wore Slashing was an effective way of adding surface satin, velvet, leather—and clever surface embellishment
them too large. detail and was cheaper than embroidery or braid. give a distinct look to each part of his body.
RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR 103

FRIVOLIT Y
AT COURT
Henri III, who reigned as King of Poland-Lithuania from
1573–75, and of France from 1574–89, was an elegant,
cultured young man who adored clothes and dressing up.
He demanded the highest standards of dress from his
courtiers, especially the effeminate, frivolous young men in
his entourage called Les Mignons (Darlings). They plucked
their eyebrows, powdered their faces, and adopted feminine
accessories such as small dogs and muffs. His mistresses wore
the kind of exuberant dress seen in this ball painting. The flat
French farthingale, would-be lovers complained, kept men at
a distance, as did huge stuffed sleeves. The turned-back fronts
of gowns revealed white bosoms above sharply pointed
bodices supported by whalebone. Both sexes indulged in
luxuries, such as exquisite lace, perfume, and jewelry—
Henri was noted for his pearl earrings.

Henri lightened the austere Spanish influence at the French


court. Men and women wore such vast starched ruffs that
people told courtiers they looked like John the Baptist’s head
on the platter. From his time as Polish king Henri brought back
fuller breeches called Venetians or Polacks, as well as small
Polish caps decorated with gems and aigrettes. Once he
galloped through Paris’s streets with 30 young men all dressed
alike in Italian-inspired pantaloons. Banquets where men
dressed as women and vice versa, or spectacular balls where
male clothing outshone female, show Henri III’s appetite for
fun, novelty, pleasure, and flair—the essence of fashion.

…exceedingly odious, as much


by their foolish and haughty
demeanour, as by their effeminate
and immodest dress…
CONTEMPORARY CHRONICLER PIERRE DE L’ESTOILE DESCRIBING
THE KING’S FAVORITES, 1576

◁ EVENING BALL FOR THE WEDDING OF THE DUC DE JOYEUSE, 1581–82


Henri III is third from the left, wearing black, next to his mother Catherine de’
Medici. The rare full-length and back views convey all the vivacity of court
fashion during his reign.
104 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

Hat brim
1590 –1624 Straight
doublet front
widening

MALE
Tailored geometry James I wears Falling
band
a suit with straight lines achieved by collar
stiffened, tailored clothing. The

EXTRAVAGANCE
doublet’s buttons emphasize
its precise lines, echoed by
the cloak and the paned
breeches. His square collar
replaces the round ruff,

A
and his shoes have the
s the tailor’s art improved, the male body took on new latchet closing.
perfectly straight, rigid lines like those of armor, but
created with cloth. Even soft ruffs were straighter,
or disappeared in favor of straight collars. The new clothing
Large lace
changed the way people moved. Rigid torso garments with standing
band with Draped cloak has stiff
padded areas and exaggerated lines made it difficult to slouch supportasse lining covered with silk
or bend, though clever cutting left the limbs free to help men Padded
stride and indulge in manly pursuits such as fighting and riding. breeches

Fashionable men and women were equally matched in their


ostentatious display of decoration. Both sexes coveted silk
stockings, rosettes, ribbons, sashes, jewels, perfumed buttons,
Stockings
and, particularly, lace. Rich men could—and did—pour fortunes over tight
into their dress, or seek a fortune at court through the beauty hose

of their appearance and grace in “making a leg.” Fashion


moved from purely geometric lines to a new relaxed style
by the 1620s, as breeches and hair lengthened again.
Latchet shoes
with rosette
Striking a pose Men wore their short
cloaks in many stylish ways: sideways,
upside down, with the sleeves on their Deep, needle-lace
necks, or slung over one Glove gauntlets cuffs
match doublet
shoulder. This Burgundian Round, felt
man has a typical or leather hat Velvet cloak with
with feather imported fur
swaggering pose and
air of active virility.
Starched ruff

Pearl necklace
Petticoat
breeches

Exaggerated
curves and Huge expense In this 1613
body line
painting by William Larkin,
Edward Sackville’s entire outfit
reveals his wealth and position
Cloak (with
as the 4th Earl of Dorset. Each
sleeves) worn separate part of his body is
backward decorated or increased in size.
An ensemble like this one could
Silver-gilt cost as much as a house.
garter ends

Silver-gilt
lace rosettes
Heeled shoes
with rosettes
MALE EXTRAVAGANCE 105
Ruff reaches
Short cape
its widest
with no
point in
decoration or
England
embellishment Ruff pleats held
Large, plain linen
ruff, heavily in place with
starched starch and pins
Geometry of
woven bands
Metal buttons Prominent
cast into solid belly draws
attention to Jerkin open
rounds over peascod
the many
buttons doublet

Plain cuffs Lengthened


with no lace peascod
or spangles
Very short breeches

Padded Full breeches


peascod in figured silk
Maltese belly or velvet
cross with
fleur-de-lys,
symbol of Knee-length
Frogging closure
the Order breeches without
bombast Short cloak slung
(padding) over shoulders

Knit hose

Dark majesty King Henri III of France wears the Eastern influences This Frenchman wears longer Youthful beauty A fashionable young
garb of the Order of the Holy Spirit, which he started upper breeches, called Venetians, in patterned Englishman displays his elegant legs under very
in 1578. The blue ribbons used to hold the Order’s fabric. The frogging closures on his robe follow short paned breeches. The artful draping of his
medallion may be the origin of the phrase “cordon Eastern fashions, sometimes referred to as Polish sleeved cloak over one shoulder and his careful
bleu” for excellence. style in western Europe. posture suggest a studied poetic melancholy.

TAILORING
In this period, cut, as much as fabric and decoration,
became a mark of taste. Skillful tailoring did much
Order of
the Garter Satin suit pinked to improve the wearer’s appearance through fit.
with holes all over Stiffening and padding—a harder shell around a
soft core—made the clothed body very different
from the natural one. Different materials helped to
create rigidity: linen, buckram (stiffened linen cloth),
cardboard, and parchment, and various weaves of
wool. Stuffing with bran, horsehair, or unspun fleece
created large, unnatural shapes.
Pattern books from the 1580s onward reveal the
tricks of subtle cutting and economical fabric use.
Basic tailors’ tools from the period are still used
Stocking today: measuring stick, chalk, pins, and shears (right).
tops turned
over garters

Spanish
Courtly style An English pattern from
courtier shows off his 1580s
well-shaped legs, part
of the taste, grace, and
cultured skills essential
at court. A man’s physical
appearance could make
or break him, so stylish
clothing of excellent quality Juan de Alcega’s pattern book Late 1560s Italian portrait of a tailor
was vital to success.
106 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

1450 –1624

TRADING IN Turned-back collars


display costly furs

TREASURES Black satin


and velvet

T
he Renaissance period was an age of expansion. Explorers
setting out from Europe discovered “New” worlds in the
Americas and improved sea trading routes into Asia. Now
fashion became global as luxurious new commodities flooded into
the West, and better transportation made them available to wealthy
people. Silver, gold, and cochineal beetles for dyeing made the White fur lining Mink coat lining

fortune of the Spanish empire. Precious rare materials, such as


aloeswood and civet glands for perfumes, and ebony wood, ivory,
and ostrich feathers, became more accessible. The explosion in
printing also spread knowledge to new audiences, including once-
Miniature sword
secret apothecary recipes and images of the unfamiliar, exotic like his father’s
inhabitants and fauna of foreign lands.

Fur-lined cloaks Demand for fur sent traders to


Muscovy (Russia) and Africa to source exotic pelts
for European customers. With discoveries of new
Partlet and ruff animals such as the beaver in North America, skins
Gold cuffs for hats were shipped back across the Atlantic.
with rubies Diamonds, pearls,
and pearls and gold jewelry
Cabochon (round,
domed cut) rubies and Zibellino with a
emeralds, with pearls, golden head
on gold collar Black-backed
diamond pendant
Flowers for
scented chaplet
(wreath for the Red lining to
head) keep head warm
Silver-gilt and pearl
embellishment

Roses and
gillyflowers Scented gloves
Ruff
Velvet gown
Silk velvet dress dyed Coral beads
with watered
with Mexican cochineal
silk lining
to give deep, colorfast red

Linen apron with


lace border

Coral beads Wealthy families prized


coral, from the Mediterranean around
Tapestry dyes This woman, from a late Rich red and royal diamonds The world’s only Italy and the African coast, as a charm
15th-century tapestry, links flowers to create known diamond source during the Renaissance was to protect children from illness and
a perfumed chaplet. Her clothes are woven using Golkonda in India, and the gems were exceedingly the evil eye. The fine quality of this
the finest red dyes from Europe and the Americas valuable. Queen Elizabeth I, shown here, accentuated girl’s clothing, like that of a miniature
to make stable reds. Under her gown she wears her status with copious jewelry, including two adult, shows great expense—
a shimmering cloth-of-gold lampas skirt. large diamonds with black backing. especially her silver and ivory rattle.
TRADING IN TREASURES 107
Many ostrich
feathers
Lynx lining Veronese’s portrait of Gold
earring Hairnet and cap
Countess Livia da Porto re-creates the European jug
depth of her lynx fur-lined robe. Over
her arm is a zibellino—an Italian Gold neck
chokers and
accessory made from the whole skin of chains
a marten or mink, which was popular
around 1551, the date of this painting.

Sleeve slit at
Layers of Cloak worn elbow and
bright sideways, also paned to
Pearl necklace feathers popular in Fabric woven show off fine
Europe with gold linen shirt

Large, tablet-
woven silk and
Lynx fur gold girdle
lining

Deep pleats of silk


and gold textiles Lapdog for
warmth,
status, and
company

New World feathers Indigenous Ostrich feathers No expense is spared in the


Americans had ways of making intricate Duchess of Saxony’s 1515 ensemble, recorded
pictures and clothing, such as capes, using by Cranach the Elder. African ostrich feathers
native feathers. Colonists brought these adorn her hat, heavy gold necklaces with black
ideas and materials to Europe and used diamonds crowd her neck, and gold is used
them in new styles of adornment. wherever possible on her gown.

PEARLS

Girl dressed
in floor-length
robe similar to
her mother’s

For the aristocracy, pearls were the most favored jewel


during this period. Women wore long strands as necklaces,
worked them into their hair, and embroidered them into
clothing. Men also wore earrings, brooches, hatpins, and
other pearl adornments. Religious vestments incorporated
the splendid luster of pearls. They were even crushed in
Satin coat with cosmetic recipes to beautify the skin.
embroidery
Pearls were sourced laboriously from salt-water oysters
around India and Arabia. Their mysterious appearance
made them highly valuable, with irregular shapes set
into great pendants.
108 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

Pictish warrior woman This


1450 –1624 Pose like a
classical statue naked woman is a fanciful

SYMBOLISM
take on classical Greek
mythology and Celtic
Loose, folklore. Tales of the Picts’
“uncivilized” hair painted skins inspired the

AND FANTASY
floral tattooing in the
contemporary Elizabethan
style. Prints spread a mix of
accurate and imaginary ideas
about foreign or past cultures

T
across Europe.
he Renaissance world revolved around emblems, iconography,
and allegories, and people delighted in using these symbolic
representations in dress. Almost any animal, plant, god, object,
color, or foreign fashion could be used metaphorically to say something
more than itself. At a time when most people could not read, visual
meanings were especially important. Medieval heraldry had established Fanciful
floral
symbols as distinctive badges of houses and families. Personal tattoos

iconography became a poetic, decorative language using emblems such


Spear reflects
as knots, phoenixes, carnations, and lilies to show a person’s virtues Elizabethan idea
along with other abstract ideas. These could be embroidered or of Amazon
tribeswoman
painted on to clothing, or worked into jewelry or armor. Characters
from religion and classical mythology were popular allegorical themes,
Skin looks like
often used to convey hidden moral or political messages. At masques embroidery
(theatrical court entertainments) and costume balls, costumes were
an opportunity to draw on different cultures.
Orientalist Fantasy headdress
hat
Small mask as
RED AND BLACK token disguise

Sculpted
Courtesan leather mask Puffed sleeves
showing off did not exist
beautiful Harlequin in normal dress
clothes costume with
fleur-de-lys and
templar crosses

Exotic tunic
and tassels

Bright colors
and symbols,
probably printed

Overskirt made
Color itself was a symbol with complex of fine linen
panes held
meanings. The most prized shades were together with
true black and crimson or scarlet. Red buttons
denoted power and was used by royalty,
nobility, and religious authorities, such
as the pope and his cardinals above.
Following 16th-century religious divisions, Sword signifies
members of both the Catholic and Catherine's
martyrdom
Protestant churches used black to show
their piety, humility, and restraint. But dyeing
cloth a deep, rich black was expensive in Venetian carnival Masquerade balls were a Holy fantasy dress Artists used inventive
terms of time and ingredients, so the color chance to throw off social convention and change imaginary dress in their pictures of female saints,
was also a fashionable way to show off roles through disguises. The Italian comedy theater like this c.1500 Flemish depiction of Saint Catherine.
wealth alongside spiritual values. Commedia dell’Arte introduced stock characters Oriental elements such as drapery and tassels helped
like Harlequin and Pantalone as popular costumes. conjure an out-of-this world biblical setting.
SYMBOLISM AND FANTASY 109

Wired silk hoops Conical hat


Starched lace with silk veil Long,
standing band collar
loose hair

Open lace ruff


with supportasse

Gilt braid Embroidered


panels

Open robe
like a caftan

Painted silk Soft, flat


petticoat slippers

The natural world The lustrous petticoat Masque costume This unknown lady of the
and stomacher of Elizabeth I have been painted 1590s is dressed as the Persian maiden from
with exquisite, naturalistic pictures of plants and Boissard’s 1581 costume book. Artists drew
animals. Some are mythical, but most are real, on illustrations of exotic costume as a design
Suns, moons, and indicating the queen’s knowledge of the natural resource. Boissard’s book inspired architect
stars embroidered world, including strange sea creatures. Inigo Jones’s famous masque costumes.
on panes (strips
of cloth)

BLACKWORK AND EMBROIDERY


As undergarments peeped out
from clothing in the 15th century,
Italian and Spanish needlework
was used to embellish the visible
edges. Blackwork is the English
name for an embroidery technique
Embroidered, using red or black silk thread in
vivid silk geometric, stylized patterns on
stockings
linen garments for both sexes,
such as shirts, smocks, coifs,
and caps.
After the idea came to England
Silk rosettes local needlewomen built on the
technique. By the Elizabethan
and Jacobean periods, complex
twining patterns of naturalistic
plants and animals covered outer
Iconographic suit English courtiers like Richard Sackville, clothing in a tangle of multicolor
3rd Earl of Dorset, delighted in playing with symbols on their designs accented with gold. The
clothing to send messages about their family, virtues, and exuberance contrasted with the
political allegiances. Celestial motifs denoting the heavens geometric formalism of garments.
were popular, like those on Sackville's hose.
110 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR
Red wool cap
and hose

1450 –1624

PRACTICAL
Imitates
fashionable cut
Plenty of
movement
in sleeves

CLOTHING Short
comfortable
waistcoast
(jacket)
Linen
shirt

R
enaissance fashion, for the rich, was a riot of
silks, velvets, and jewels. However, for the vast
majority—peasants working the land, traders,
or part of the growing class of the “middling sort”
including merchants and landed gentry—garments
tended to be less fitted and exaggerated, and better Large
linen
suited to daily life. Linen and wool were staple apron Leather-skirted
coat lined
fabrics—wool could be spun and woven at home. with linen
Silk was a rare luxury. As in any era people wore the Clothing
undone for
best they could afford. Subtle hierarchies of cloth Ankle-length
Wool hose ease

qualities were used to distinguish between coarse, skirt

sturdy everyday wear and finer, best garments.


Producing fabric was labor intensive, so cutting out Waistcoat and petticoat This French peasant Occasion wear Brueghel’s cheerful
the expense and time of dyeing made sense. from the early 17th century wears a comfortable, dancing man wears his best red cap and
Clothing styles for the ordinary people changed practical outfit. She uses linen garments like her hose for a special occasion. He is dressed
shirt and apron to protect her skirt. The thick in fewer pieces of clothing than nobility,
over time, but slowly, since garments were linen scarf or cap helps stabilize the jar. but the cut is not radically different.
replaced less often.
Old-fashioned
Linen cap hood

Wicker basket
Tabbed
shoulders
USEFUL FABRICS Loose shirt
and collar

Linen
sleeves
Garment tied
around waist

Holes Zigzag
punched pinking
in star cut stops
shapes fraying

Dark clothes—
undyed or dirty Torn clothing
Leather
jerkin

Leather was a practical choice because


it was tough, protective, and needed little
stitching. Aside from shoes, leather was used
for aprons, purses, doublets, coats, and
jerkins, like this late 16th-century example for Flat, coarse Ankle boots
leather shoes
a young man. This jerkin has been pinked
and cut with star shapes for embellishment Following fashion Musicians wore more Poor clothing The aging “Everyman” from
and to make it more flexible. Strong wool fashionable costume than peasants. The a painting by Bosch of 1515 wears a drab coat
fabrics were also popular, often left in their tabbed shoulders and paned sleeves of and wrinkled torn hose, with a black doublet
natural color. this musician’s gown reflect early and hood, and a traveling basket. His shoes
17th-century French fashion. are typical ankle boots fitting the foot’s shape.
High hat PRACTICAL CLOTHING 111
with feather

Fashionable cap
shape in plain linen

Dark,
cheap dye
Patches and
repairs

Untied pants
showing linen
underwear

No decoration

Undyed
leather
Shorter-length
coat easy to
move in Hose falling
down from
walking Small amount of
expensive velvet
Velvet cuff
Shoes without
stylish toes

Rural worker In this picture from the 1570s Unlaced hose Bosch’s figure of c.1480 reveals the
the worker’s coat still has large shoulders and practice of untying the points connecting doublet
a longer skirt similar to styles earlier in the and hose when working. Without elastic, the ties
century. Woven stockings—less elastic than gave no ease for bending. His leather doublet is
knit ones—reveal his knees. torn at the elbow and has been repaired.

Hat to Skirt
Feathers in hooked up
protect skin wide-rimmed hat for walking

Linen
collar with
Linen veil for needlework
older woman

Turned-back
cuffs

Mantle

Tasseled Wool dress


sash
Warm, sturdy,
knee-high boots

Red wool kirtle

Chapines of cork

Modest mantle An older woman in the Buttoned coat A Frenchman selling on the Middle-class quality Hans Holbein’s
1570s wears the respectable black mantle streets in the early 17th century wears a long close observation of a young woman’s ensemble
that was used in Spain by many social levels. coat with wider sleeves. His collar has a stylish suggests quality, not extravagance. Her gown uses
Her skirt reveals her stockings and chapines shape with decorative edging. The outfit is a plenty of fabric yet is carefully held up for walking.
(high platform shoes). less elaborate version of contemporary fashions. Her cap is plain but has elaborate veiling.
112 RENAISSANCE SPLENDOR

1450 –1624 Prominent turban of


woven cotton strips

OTTOMAN Celenk (feathers)


in turban

FINERY
Flowing,
symmetrical Shapeless robes
patterns conceal body

T
Fitted cuff of
he Ottomans conquered Constantinople (now Istanbul) under-tunic

in 1453 and made it the center of a vast empire.


Their territory covered most of southeast Europe,
stretching to the edges of Austria and Poland-Lithuania, and
included Hungary and the Balkans. Clothing in all these areas Draping and
large sleeves
showed a strong oriental influence in long robes, horizontal
fastenings, and turbans. Venetian fashion also drew on Eastern
ideas through trade with Byzantium. Muslim Ottomans Wide
continued to wear the flowing garments of earlier centuries—a ankle-length
trousers
contrast with the growing Western passion for fitted, separate,
rigid clothing. Ottoman dress used fewer, simpler garments Shoes with heels
and pointed toes
and depended more on nuances of fine-quality textiles and
embroidery than novelties of fashion. The most
obviously foreign difference was that women in
Intricate silks A miniature of Selim II shows Turbans and loose tunics Turbans were the
Eastern areas often wore trousers, while in the West,
off the lavish colors and sinuous patterns of his most significant point of difference between
European split-leg garments were exclusively male. clothing. Caftans’ large surfaces were ideal for Western and Eastern dress. This Armenian
showcasing quality textiles, which expressed nobleman’s draped clothing is in sharp contrast
prestige and power rather than fashionable cut. to contemporary tailored fashion.
TEXTILES
European tabs
at shoulder

Hanging sleeves,
called yen, mostly
decorative
Elbow-length
sleeves to show
tunic underneath

Showing off
gloves and Lined with fur
handkerchief

Robe shorter
than dress
Constantinople had long been a trading
center for textiles to Europe. Likewise,
Elaborate weave
Ottoman merchants imported costly silk and luxurious
velvets from Genoa, Venice, and France. materials
Local textile weaving used the stylized,
two-dimensional motifs of Islamic art in
harmonious repetition and striking color
combinations. Venetian Gentile Bellini’s
painting of a Turkish scribe, made when Long robe with hanging sleeves This Royal caftan This late 15th-century silk and gold
he visited the Ottoman court around 1480, courtesan from Padua wears a fur-lined brocade damask caftan belonged to Sultan Beyazid II. Caftans
shows a pomegranate motif and richly robe with central button closure. Elements of were the main garment worn by Ottoman men and
contrasting fabrics. Eastern or caftan styles had become usual in women and eastward into Persia (now Iran) and
European clothing by the late 16th century. central Asia. Cut, length, and width varied.
OTTOMAN FINERY 113

Tall peaked
headdress

Small turban badly


tied around fez hat

Long silk
or linen veil

Natural waist
Russian fur-lined marked with sash
black satin caftan

Fringed scarf
Overgown split
at sides

Rhodes blend Ottoman-ruled regions such as


Greece mixed clothing ideas from many places.
This courtesan wears soft robes but not the
trousers and tight caftans of Ottoman women.
The artist may have added imaginary touches.
Silk damask robe

Flat peaked hat

Horizontal
frogging

Turkish-style
waist sash

Flowing cape

Knee-high boots
with heels
Flat leather
slippers

A la turque Around 1617 Rubens painted Hungarian style A 1577 Dutch costume plate
Nicolas de Raspaigne, a Flemish merchant of eastern European peoples shows the strong
trading in Constantinople, in garments that are Turkish influence on clothing in the area. This
probably genuinely Turkish. The portrait shows man displays similar style details to those of
the European vogue for wearing oriental dress. Ottoman male dress.
BAROQUE
AND ROCOCO
1625–1789
116 1625–1789

BAROQUE
AND ROCOCO
O
pulence, grandeur, heavy ornamentation, and rich colors were
the defining characteristics of fashion throughout Europe in
the 17th century. No one demonstrated this baroque style to
1625–40 1641–70 1671–80
greater effect than King Carl Gustav of Sweden, who wore such a
1649
richly decorated doublet at his coronation in 1654 that the fabric The English
beneath the embroidery was completely invisible. The baroque style Commonwealth
is proclaimed, with
was set at the royal court in France, where the stiff-bodiced, heavy- puritanical Oliver
skirted court dress known as the grand habit was established in the Cromwell at its head.
Style in England
splendor of Louis XIV’s Versailles. The fabrics for these stately clothes becomes more
were produced across Europe, but the French silk industry, centered in subdued as a result.
Lyon, dominated. Farther afield, the influx of goods from Asia via
trading organizations such as the Dutch East India Company, founded ▶ Oliver Cromwell
in 1602, meant that printed cottons and painted silks from India and
China flooded the European fashion market. 1660
Charles II is proclaimed King
of England, and a year later
Rococo lightness Louis XIV assumes personal
By the 18th century there was a move in the decorative arts toward rule of France—the monarchy
is reestablished as the center
a lighter, more flowing aesthetic known as the rococo, which was of European fashion.
reflected in fashion. This could be seen in the curving lines of the silk
designs produced by such craftspeople as Anna Maria
Garthwaite and the Spitalfields silk weavers in London,
▼ Louis XIV, the Sun King
many of them Protestant Huguenots who had fled
religious persecution in France. Gone was the 1666
▲ Henrietta Maria, French wife
boned bodice and skirt, to be replaced first by of Charles I of England Charles II introduces
a loose, full-skirted gown known as a mantua, the Persian vest and the
1625 justaucorps (a style of long
and then by an open robe and petticoat. Charles I ascends the throne coat) to England.
Men’s doublet and hose had disappeared too, and marries Henrietta Maria
of France; she brings the
giving way to coat and breeches. fashions of the French court
with her. Meanwhile, black
clothes remain popular in the
Revolutionary spirit Dutch United Provinces (now
By about the 1770s England was setting the Netherlands).
the principal style in men’s dress with the
coat called the frock, worn by men for 1630S 1670S
The “bucket-top” Louis XIV, to disguise his
countryside pursuits. This more informal boot for men growing baldness, promotes
look was taken up in revolutionary makes an the fashion of wearing wigs.
appearance,
America and even in France, the center and strings of
of fashion, where the revolutionary pearls become
leaders opted for styles that set them fashionable
for women.
apart from the aristocratic and
increasingly isolated Ancien Régime.
It was around this time, too, that cottons
and muslins traded from the East became 1675
the new wonder fabrics, and women’s Under sumptuary laws
dress took on a softer silhouette. protecting local markets,
Charles II bans the import
of French lace into England.

FASHION EXTREMES
Young fops of the 1770s, nicknamed “macaronis,” ▶ Bucket-top boots
took fashion to absurd heights, wearing and abundant lace
extravagant clothes and towering wigs.
TIME LINE 117

It is fancy rather than taste which produces


so many new fashions.
VOLTAIRE, FRENCH WRITER AND PHILOSOPHER, 1694–1778

1681–90 1691–20 1721–45 1746–65 1766–74 1775–89


1692 1728 1748 1775
Following the Battle of Silk designer Anna Maria A craze for costume dress Grand Tours to Italy are
Steenkerque between the Garthwaite starts work and “masquerade” emerges popular with wealthy
French and the allied forces in London. —in 1748 society hostesses European men, who go
under William of Orange, a Elizabeth and Maria Gunning there to study classical
new, military-style cravat, the attend a ball at Dublin Castle antiquity and to experience
“Steinkirk,” becomes popular. wearing theater costumes. polite society.

▼ Flower-patterned silk designed


by Anna Maria Garthwaite

1710S 1778
The sack back dress King George III of England
featuring Watteau pleats, introduces the Windsor
named after a style often uniform; this starts the lasting
depicted in the work of trend for royalty to wear
French rococo painter liveries, conveying the idea of
Jean-Antoine Watteau, military discipline and duty.
is popularized.
▶ Figure at a
◀ Robe à la française (also masquerade, dressed as ▼ From the 1770s onward
known as sack back dress) Pulcinella from the Italian George III preferred to be
with Watteau pleats Commedia dell’Arte painted wearing military dress

1685 C.1718-1719 1745 1764 1774


Louis XIV revokes the Edict The Spanish fashion for Jeanne Antoinette Poisson, The “Spinning Jenny,” Marie Antoinette becomes
of Nantes, forcing large the pannier (hoop petticoat) Madame de Pompadour, a machine using multiple Queen of France and
numbers of Huguenots spreads to France. becomes Louis XV’s mistress spindles for spinning yarn, introduces a series of
to seek refuge in London. and exerts tremendous is invented. new fashions.
Importing their silk-weaving influence on court fashions.
expertise, these escapees
helped found the Spitalfields ▼ New technology speeds
silk industry. up the production of cloth

▼ Stiffened hoops held out ▼ Madame de Pompadour,


the upper skirt at the hips dressed sumptuously in white silk

1774
Georgiana Cavendish marries
the Duke of Devonshire; she
will become a trendsetter in
English fashion.

1686 1765 1778


The importation of chintz The caraco The Gallerie des Modes,
is banned in France (and emerges as an early fashion magazine,
40 years later in England) a women’s is founded showing details
to promote the interests jacket style in of the styles of the day.
of French and English the 1760s.
wool mills.

▶ Painted and dyed


cotton caraco
118 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

1625 –1635 Wide-


brimmed hat

MEN IN LACE Layered ruff

B
Lace-edged
y the mid 1620s, with a new king, Charles I, on the English throne, the cuffs
heavily padded doublets of King James I’s reign (also widely worn in
courts across continental Europe) were passing out of fashion. New,
longer doublets in plain or subtly patterned silks replaced the tabbed styles
made of the heavy woven and embroidered fabrics that were popular earlier
in the 17th century. Breeches, too, changed in shape. They became much
longer, reaching to mid-calf level, and were worn with soft leather boots
1625
rather than decorated shoes. Neckwear such as circular ruffs (held out
behind the head by a wire support called a supportasse or a pickadil) began
to fall out of fashion and give way to extravagant lace collars. The plainer
fabrics of the new-style doublet were a perfect foil for such accessories, and
this became a boom time for lace makers. Lavish quantities of elaborately Cape worn
on one
patterned lace were used for every accessory, from cuffs and collars to shoulder
handkerchiefs and boot hose. Flemish bobbin lace was widely available,
but the new fashions benefited every lace-making center in Europe.
Decorated
shoes

Dressed in black Dark clothes were a particular fashion


THE DOUBLET in the Dutch United Provinces (now the Netherlands).
Jacket-style Long lock
of hair tied Large ruffs made of layers of linen, expertly laundered
doublet
with ribbon and pressed, remained popular here long after the
fashion had died out in the rest of Europe.

Sleeves
open to
cuffs

Wide lace
collar
Shoulder
hanger
for sword

Open
sleeves

Points

The padded jacket that men wore in the first


part of the 17th century was known as the Points at
Wide-topped
doublet. This garment had several variations boots
knees
in shape and style. The one illustrated here Lace boot
has deep stiffened tabs and is made of linings
figured, paned silk. Doublets were attached
to trunk hose (the short, puffed breeches
Softly
that were fashionable in this period) with creased
points or ties, which held the two parts of boots
the outfit together. The fastenings were
called “points” because of the pointed metal Wide collar Deep, scallop-edged lace collars Bigger breeches In the mid-1630s men’s breeches
ends of the laces. They were often made covering the shoulders were fashionable for both men were becoming much fuller, with the fabric drawn
of silver and gold thread, and added and women in the mid-1630s. Often made of, or in just below the knee with a series of points. The
decorative trimming to the doublet. decorated with, Flemish bobbin lace, the collars lower sleeves of a doublet were sometimes fully
were worked by hand in the finest linen threads. open to show the shirt beneath.
MEN IN LACE 119
Long,
curling hair

Leather jerkin Sleeveless, soft leather


jerkins were worn over the doublet in the
1630s, frequently with a military-style sash
Small falling draped diagonally over one shoulder. Lace collar
band collar covers
A metal breastplate or gorget might also shoulders
be placed on top of the leather jerkin.
Paned
doublet
High
waistline Falling ruff
Deep basque
(extension of
bodice)

1628 1630
Lace
boot Long
hose breeches

Tight-fitting
sleeves Funnel or
bucket-top
boots

Longer doublet By the late 1620s the doublet had Short cloak Decorative rather than functional,
lost its decorative tabs and instead typically had a the short cloak was often richly patterned. This
deep basque, emphasizing a high waistline. The full fashionable gentlemen also wears funnel-topped
sleeves of the garment were slashed to reveal the boots and a wide-brimmed, plumed hat, both
plain linen shirt worn beneath it. typical of French styles of the time.

BUCKLES AND STRAPS


Falling band

Slashed
doublet
Plain
gauntlet
gloves
Points
at waist

1631
Cast metal buckles

Points In the 17th century male accessories


at knee included numerous buckled straps worn on
Boots folded various parts of the body. Straps attached
back into spurs to boots; belts and shoulder hangers
Boots with
deep tops
folded down carried swords; and bandoliers, slung
tops
diagonally across the body, held ammunition
for firearms. Military paraphernalia such as
Spur on gorgets (protective collars) and metal
boot strap breastplates were also attached with straps
Clothes-conscious king The wardrobe accounts and buckles. The only place belts were not
of Charles I, King of England 1625–49, show that worn was around the waist, because this
the monarch was genuinely interested in fashion. destroyed the smooth lines of a doublet
In this portrait by Daniel Mytens the Elder, Charles attached to breeches with points.
wears a slashed doublet with a pointed front.
120 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

1625 – 1635

SOFTER
SILHOUETTES Gown
worn from
Large
ruff

F
shoulders
ashions changed relatively slowly in the 17th century;
but with the demise of the rigid farthingale petticoat,
the trend in the mid-1620s to mid-1630s was toward
a more bulky, soft silhouette, and dresses with higher waists
and fuller sleeves. During this period dresses could be made
up of three separate parts: a bodice, a petticoat, and a gown Puffed
sleeves
over the top (which might be gathered up to reveal the
petticoat below). Another style was to wear the gown
hanging from the shoulders. As with men’s fashion, the ruff
gave way to the broad falling collar edged with elegant
handmade lace. Only in the Dutch United Provinces (now the
Netherlands) was the ruff retained as the neckwear of choice.
The fabric used in European fashionable dress in the 17th
century was produced in many countries, with silk satins and
velvets designed and woven in France and Italy, and linen for
shirts and smocks made in the Netherlands and Germany.

Linen or
cotton cap
Old fashioned This lady, possibly
a Genoese marchioness, wears
the dated style of European royal
Linen ruff courts of the late 16th century.
The bodice was a separate
Tabbed and Tight garment, stiffened with
embroidered sleeves buckram or pasteboard,
gloves and sometimes with a
central wooden busk.

Separate skirt

Cartwheel The ruff was a fashion that


persisted in the Netherlands in the mid-17th
century, while in the rest of Europe it was dying
out. It grew ever larger, becoming a cartwheel
shape of finely goffered (frilled pleats) linen.
SOFTER SILHOUETTES 121
Hair worn
Scooped loose
neckline of
bodice edged Wired standing
with lace collar edged
Wide ruff with lace
Contrasting
tone draws
attention to ruff
Ribbon
Conical rosette
cuffs

Feather fan

Apron

Trailing
hem

Low décolletage Queen Anne, wife of King James I Full sleeves A much fuller, elbow-length style Voluminous silhouette The fullness of the skirt
of England, was sometimes portrayed wearing was the fashion for sleeves in the later 1620s. and the puffed sleeves, plus the trailing hems, gave
low-necked dresses. For modesty, a revealing neckline They were often paned—made of worked and a round shape to women’s dress in the 1630s. In
could be covered by a linen garment called a partlet, finished strips of silk fabric—with the puffs the Dutch United Provinces dark colors were
which was stitched to the shift. separated by ribbon ties and rosettes. popular, worn here with a large pleated ruff.

Sombrero Curled
hairstyle
JEWELRY
Puffed Pearl
sleeves necklace
Gown
hangs from
shoulders
High
waist

Gold and
gemstone breast
ornaments

Petticoat Saddle bag,


known as
possibly made
an alforias On formal occasions
of wool
jewelry—along with lace
and rich materials—was one
of the most important components of
Glossy women’s fashionable dress. Seventeenth-
silk satin
century paintings and prints show that the
“must have” piece of jewelry of the 1630s
was a breast ornament, somewhat like a
brooch, worn at the center front of the
bodice. Portrait painters also showed
Sombrero The Spanish artist Zurbaran painted Lustrous silk In the 1630s dresses were made women wearing two or three necklaces of
this portrait of the 4th-century, and possibly of light-colored silk satins that shimmered in the gemstones; and strings of pearls too were
fictitious, Saint Margaret of Antioch. She wears candlelight. The high-waisted styles often had a a popular choice. Pearls were also worn as
the Iberian sombrero, which inspired the fashion low-cut bodice edged with costly lace, which drop earrings and as hair ornaments.
for soft plumed hats in the rest of Europe. matched the lace on the separate cuffs.
122 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO
Felt hat with
angled brim

1635 –1649

DOUBLET AND Ostrich


feather

BREECHES
plumes
Lace-edged
collar

D
uring this period France remained the center of fashion. The doublet and
breeches were still the main style of dress, often made from matching
fabric. Gradually the waistline on the doublet became higher and the
fabric tabs below the waist lengthened to create a jacketlike garment, which
finished at hip level. The slashed effect remained popular with vertical openings
down the front, back, and sleeves of the doublet.
Silk
Breeches retained a fullness around the seat but breeches Sword

were now worn longer on the leg, tapering below


the knee and held in around the calf with a band,
often decorated with bows. In the mid-1640s
doublets and breeches became much shorter,
with breeches gradually getting fuller, Collar extends to
edge of shoulder
finishing in a straight line at the knee.
Referred to as petticoat breeches, they
resembled a skirt and were worn with Feather in cap Hats were often decorated with
underdrawers with decorative edging trailing feathers such as ostrich plumes. These were
placed on the left side of the hat leaving the right
“canions” that hung beneath the hem.
sword arm free to move. Worn indoors, hats were
removed before royalty and elders.

LACE

Cloak
Banded
decoration
on sleeve

Hat with
feathers

Lace continued to be a popular accessory


for men and women. Originally developed
as a scalloped trim on the edging of linen Breeches
Boot-hose
garments, gradually whole cuffs and large tops
collars made of lace became fashionable. Butterfly
Patterns for lace were drawn up on paper spur Cup-top boots
leathers and boot-
and lace makers, often families who handed hose tops
down the skills, would work with fine linen
threads to copy the designs. Lace was a
highly valued personal possession—it was
extremely costly since it took a long time to
make even the smallest piece. The finest
lace was produced in Italy, France, and the Band collar Made from fine linen and often trimmed Boot fashion By the 1630s spurs developed into
Flanders area of Belgium, and there was a with costly lace edging, collars were an important a leather butterfly shape at the front of the foot,
strong international market for it since it was accessory. The earlier ruff style was replaced with becoming very large and dramatic in size. The top
easy to transport and high in value. the flatter band, which draped softly from a high of boots began to widen and were known as cup
neckline, and cut straight across the back. shapes. By the 1640s these slouched down the leg.
Pelt hat The “sugarloaf” hat with a high DOUBLET AND BREECHES 123
crown and narrower brim was popular along
with the “cocked” hat, which had a shorter
Curled,
crown and wide brim, worn
fringed hair
at an angle. The finest
hats were made of Wide-brimmed,
angled hat
Trimmed beaver pelts imported
beard and from North
moustache America. Lace-edged
collar

Scallop-
edged
lace cuffs
and collar

Baldrick
sash Cloak
Cup-top
boots Decorative bow on
band securing
breeches
under knee

Shoe rose Open-


sided
shoes

Curls and fringes Hair was worn to Huge rosettes Shoes with open sides were
shoulder length—curled and frizzed with popular and toe shapes became more square.
bangs. Wigs were introduced by King Louis They fastened with ribbons or decorative
XIII, but they did not become popular until rosettes known as shoe roses. The cloak
the midcentury. remained essential outdoor wear.

Tall, Tall,
Ostrich crowned
crowned feather
hat hat
plumes

Linen shirt
visible
Doeskin through split
gloves sleeve

Short
doublet

Cup-top
boots and
boot hose
Butterfly
spur Ribbon
leathers rosette
decoration

Decorative detail One of the more elaborate Doublet rises When doublets shortened in the
accessories were boot-hose tops—decorative, lace Spurs 1640s it became fashionable for the linen shirt to
edged, or embroidered tops of overstockings. They be visible between the hem and the top of the
were also made as separate tops that tied like large breeches, often with decorative ribbons around
cuffs around the top of the stocking. the waist. Decorative lace cuffs remained in vogue.
Hair swept back into
124 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO flat-topped style

1635 –1649

TAFFETA
Pearl necklace
Stand-up and jeweled
collar at back breast ornament

AND LACE Matching


Elbow-length
sleeves

T
lace cuffs
here was a relative simplicity about women’s
dress in the late 1630s and 1640s, with
everyday styles consisting of a boned bodice
and a separate skirt, usually made in soft, draping
silks such as taffetas and satins. The look was
completed with broad lace and linen collars, Skirt loosely
pleated to
or folded kerchiefs worn across the shoulders or control fullness
as edging to a bodice. Lace cuffs were attached
to the sleeve ends of a linen smock that was worn as
an undergarment. Hair was worn with the bangs set
in thin curls across the forehead, with longer frizzed
locks at the side. Henrietta Maria, the queen consort
of King Charles I, both set the trends in fashions for
women and attracted criticism for her extravagance
Black clothes Dark clothing was fashionable High waist By the end of the 1630s women’s
from Puritan moralists.
in the Dutch United Provinces (the Netherlands). dress throughout Europe was high waisted.
Large ruffs made of layers of linen, expertly Here, the green silk separate boned bodice has
laundered and pressed, remained in vogue here deep tabs, the middle one a curved pointed
COLLAR STARCHING long after they died out in the rest of Europe. shape, and is worn over a ruby-red silk skirt.

Hair Natural hair


frizzed out tightly curled
at sides at sides

Lace trimming
at bodice Full sleeves
with lace cuffs
or edgings to
smock beneath

Lace at
sleeve ends
Muff
Silk skirt

Contrasting
edging
Full skirts
held up in
Silk satin gloved hand
skirt

Fine white linen, deep lace collars, and


pleated ruffs meant that skilled laundresses
had an important role to play in mid-17th-
century fashion, when cleanliness was a
luxury. Gerard’s Herbal, a popular almanac
of the time, maintained that the purest and Lace collar New, softer fashions and glossy Engravings The engraver Wenceslas Hollar was
whitest starch was from the roots of the silks led to a spectacular rise in the production born in Bohemia and worked in London, copying
cuckoo pint plant but that it could chap and consumption of lace. Excellent design skills portraits of aristocratic sitters so that the images
and blister laundresses’ hands. and sharp business acumen meant that Flemish could be widely sold as prints. This print shows
laces were popular across Europe. a lady in a boned bodice, worn over a silk skirt.
TAFFETA AND LACE 125
Hair teased Ribbons and bows
into small curls worn in hair
at forehead
Soft ringlets with
extra hair now at
Fur tippet over sides of head Patterned fabric This long boned
shoulders bodice and separate skirt are made
Muff Large fur muffs were a of matching figured woven silk.
popular, but costly, accessory to While skirts seen beneath
winter dress in the 1640s. The gowns could be embroidered
muff is worn here with a fur or patterned, portraits from
wrap known as a tippet, the mid-17th century rarely
which is draped shawl-like show patterns on bodices
around the shoulders. and skirts.
Fur muff

Silk sash Ringlets on


worn across one shoulder
one shoulder

Softly
draping
folds

Longer skirts
coming into Trailing hem, with fullness
fashion concentrated on back

Full sleeves with


panes that show
billowing smock
Topknot beneath
at back of
hairstyle
Length of
draped
fabric Sloped
shoulders Unadorned fabrics Women’s fashions
at the court of King Charles I were stylish
and elegant. Dresses were made of
relatively undecorated fabrics such
as woven silk taffetas and satins,
Sleeves
of smock or in colors such as apricot and
shift beneath soft blues and greens.

Plain-colored
fabric shimmers
as wearer moves

Full skirts with


Portrait painters English court artists in the 1630s, trailing hem
including van Dyck, painted fabric folds and billows
rather than recording stylistic details, which makes it
difficult to date precisely. Hairstyles and accessories,
however, give an impression of current styles.
126 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

FASHION ICON

HENRIETTA MARIA
T
he daughter of Henry IV of France and Marie de’ Henrietta's fame as a leader of fashion was mainly due
Medici, Henrietta Maria (1609–69) married to Sir Anthony van Dyck (1599–1641), a Flemish Baroque
Charles I of England in 1625. She had grown up artist who became the leading court painter in England.
in the French court and imported grace, style, and imperial Despite flattering his subject, van Dyck captured her regal
grandeur, along with a vast trousseau of clothes and character, whatever costume she chose to wear. The
jewelry. Immediately, her youth, French background, and queen’s niece, who knew her aunt only from van Dyck’s
vivacious personality introduced a new sophistication to portraits, was astonished to discover that Henrietta Maria
court culture, as well as the shock of the new. was a very small woman, with crooked shoulders, long,
skinny arms, and protruding teeth.
Freer fashions The Queen’s passion for dancing, music, and theater
The queen made her mark through her dress sense, which heavily influenced her style. Elaborate masques staged by
was greatly admired and copied throughout Europe. Inigo Jones and Ben Jonson dramatized the ideals of the
Severe styles went out. Stiff brocades gave way to shiny, Stuart monarchy. Sumptuous costumes combined dazzling
smooth silks, and strong, heavy colors softened. Courtiers colors and languid elegance. Her attire when performing
often wore the queen's favorite colors, which were on stage outraged Puritans, who considered her choice
orange, blue, gray, peach, yellow, and olive-green. of clothing to be extremely provocative. One famous
Henrietta abandoned the farthingale, even for formal outfit had such a low décolletage that her nipples
occasions, and also the fashion for long stomachers were barely hidden.
that had pressed the farthingale flat in front to fan
out behind. Full skirts were instead supported by Toning down
△ TREND FOR PEARLS ornamental petticoats that were visible, since Henrietta took less interest in fashion as her
Henrietta introduced fresh new styles into the fashion was to hold up the long overskirts children and the political situation occupied
the English court, among them a renewed when walking. more of her time and thoughts. The civil war
love of pearls. She proudly wore these
Styles were relaxing. Henrietta influenced in England in the 1640s brought women’s
symbols of wealth in her hair, around her
neck, and as double drop earrings. the move away from the rigid style, ruffles, and fashion to a grinding halt and women's
flounces of the Elizabethan era. Even ruffs were wear became more subdued in both
discarded in favor of wide, low collars, which England and France. High waists were
gradually lowered to reveal a square-cut lowered almost to natural level.
décolletage. Shoulders grew soft and rounded Supporters of the monarchy (Royalists) wore
as the waistline rose, sitting just beneath detailed and lavish fashions in rich resplendent
breast level in the 1630s. Henrietta adopted satins, but the shock of the new was over.
the Virago sleeve, a paned sleeve that was Henrietta’s husband struggled—and failed—
SHIMMERING SATIN ▷ drawn into the arm creating puffs. She to hang on to the throne. He was beheaded
Henrietta's high-waisted gown replaced stiff hairstyles with a softer in 1649. Henrietta was a fierce campaigner,
has tabbed skirts and open three-quarter
sleeves over full chemise sleeves. Her coiffure, wearing her hair flat on raising funds and marshaling royal support,
wide collar is made of lace and pearls, top but curled in soft ringlets diverting her sartorial brilliance into political
and she wears a ribbon sash. at the side. and intellectual channels.

1609 Born in ◁ Mid-1630s Stiff ◁ Late 1630s High 1669 Dies near Paris
Paris, France fabrics give way to collars and ruffs give way at the age of 60
lighter silks. Colors to lower necklines
TIME LINE

1625 The chic young brighten with oranges


Catholic bride arrives in and olive-greens. The
England. In her first year of Virago sleeve,
married life she wears gathered in with a Early 1640s As
flounced farthingale skirts ribbon or fabric to civil war approaches,
and stiff upright collars, create two large puffs, fashions get simpler
before ditching both becomes all the rage with natural waistlines

1610 1620 1630 1640 1650 1670

PORTRAIT OF QUEEN HENRIETTA MARIA, c.1638 In this van Dyck portrait Henrietta has low décolletage and large slashed sleeves, open on the arms to reveal white under-sleeves, secured with clasps. ▷
“Chaperone” Capotaine-
128 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO (small soft hood) style hat with
angular crown

1649 –1660

PURITAN Low neckline Softly


with lace collar straggling
hair

INFLUENCE
Long bodice with
laced stomacher

Narrow sleeves

A
fter King Charles I was executed in 1649, England became
a republic called the Commonwealth, with Oliver Cromwell
at its head. Cromwell, a Protestant and a Puritan, believed
that people should lead pious lives and dress in a plain and practical 1650
way. His opponents, the Royalists, supported a return to the
monarchy and wore elaborate clothing inspired by French fashion.
Cromwell’s Puritans based their dress on Dutch traditions, since the Moderately
full skirt
Dutch United Provinces (now the Netherlands) was a strongly
Cape worn
Protestant country as well as a wealthy, influential one. Many style over one
shoulder
features associated with this period—such as linen collars covering
the shoulders and the widespread popularity of black—are Dutch Both figures
wear high-
in origin. Dark clothes with little or no decoration were favored. heeled shoes

English Puritans, a branch of Protestants, established a colony in


Into the Commonwealth At the beginning of this
Plymouth, Massachusetts, in what is now the US, in 1620 that period in England, people were still wearing fashions
would influence all aspects of American culture, including fashion. from Charles I’s time. The laced stomacher (front
panel) of the lady’s bodice and soft-toned color of
the man’s doublet were both styles from the 1640s.

Simple cap Close-fitted cap or


made from linen coif, pointed at front
Broad-brimmed, Large linen
beaver-fur hat collar covers
with high crown shoulders

Coif
Small linen
falling collar
Separate Linen
square linen collar
collar
Additional
collar of
translucent
Separate cotton
skirt and
bodice Dressed
completely
in black

1654 1655 1657


Long
overskirt

Skirt hitched
Clogs or
up to reveal Black leather
shoes
red petticoat shoes Luxury trim
on petticoat

Dutch servant In a detail from a painting Seated woman In this Nicolaes Maes painting, Merchant class Artist Pieter de Hooch offers a
by Jacobus Vrel, this young servant girl wears c.1655, a Dutch housewife mends a linen shirt. glimpse of Dutch domestic life in the 17th century.
clothes of linen and wool fabrics, with names like Linen was woven in the city of Haarlem, exported The prosperous couple is dressed in black, but with
“serge” and “linsey woolsy.” These would have widely, and used locally for both clothing and luxurious details, such as the woman’s silver
been far less expensive than silk and cotton. domestic textiles. petticoat and laced bodice.
Hat with
PURITAN INFLUENCE 129
high crown Neat, full bushy
hairstyle

Pointed
linen collar Small, linen
falling collar

Full doublet sleeves with


buttoned slashes to
reveal shirt underneath

Lace
cuffs Buff-colored
leather jerkin

1651
Breeches
fastened
at knee Clothing is
largely black Gauntlet
gloves
Black shoes,
fastened with
latchets or ties

War and peace Prince Ottavio


Piccolomini is depicted in a 1651
painting by Dutch artist, Anselmus
Oliverian clothing Named for Oliver Cromwell, Stick, or van Hulle. Away from Puritan
this man from 1650 wears simpler clothes to sword stick
influences, this Italian aristocrat
express Puritan disdain of worldly splendor.
chose a hybrid style of dress with
Cromwell’s supporters cut their hair close to their
characteristics of both military
heads, giving rise to the term “Roundhead.”
uniform and decorative court wear.

Linen cap Loose breeches


with ribbon
rosettes at hem

Linen collar,
completely Linen boot hose,
covering shoulders worn to protect
silk stockings

Child’s linen Funnel-top boots


or cotton cap with riding spur

Square toe

1658
MILITARY DRESS

Long skirt The English Civil War, from 1642


to the floor to 1651, came with a new style of
military dress. Parliamentarian
Colonel Hutchinson appeared in the English
Overskirt hitched
up to show blue House of Commons in “a habit which was Parliamentarian
petticoat pretty rich but grave” (a dark doublet felt hat
decorated with gold and silver points), but
ordinary soldiers wore plainer clothes. Baldrick with
Dutch child Another de Hooch detail
sword belt
portrays a servant girl with a small child in Buff-colored leather coats were worn by
simple modest dress. At this time children’s Cromwell’s New Model Army and by those Buff-colored leather coat
clothes were just smaller versions of the involved in conflicts in Europe. (worn over doublet)
outfits worn by their parents.
130 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

1660 –1685 Gold braid galloon


hat trimming

OPULENCE
RESTORED
W
ith the Restoration of the monarchy in 1660, opulence returned to
fashion in England. The justaucorps (knee-length coat) took over
from the doublet as the main garment in a man’s wardrobe. Its
body was longer and straighter than the doublet, falling to the knee and
closing down the front with small buttons from neck to hem. The lower
part of the coat known as the skirt had back and side openings (to allow a
sword to poke through). Gradually it became tighter on the waist and fuller
at the hem. Sleeves were wide with turned-back cuffs. The waistcoat
was worn underneath—it was the same length but narrower in
cut than the coat, with long, fitted sleeves. Breeches were
still worn full and short to just below the knee, often
decorated with bows and ribbon trimmings.
Embroidered
By the 1680s breeches became slimmer cuffs

in fit and fastened at the knee.

Gold braid Silk


decoration Cane decorated coat
with ribbon rosette
Wide-brimmed,
felt hat

Ribbon
Cloak rosette
Lace decoration
cuffs

Lace
trim

1665
Canions

Shoes with Cane Shoe buckles Shoes became


bow fastening Buckled popular again, taking over
shoes from boots. A new style of Stockings
fastening—the shoe buckle
(a square or rectangular
Breeches Petticoat breeches, known Shoulder sash A baldrick—a metal fastening)—was both
Buckled
as pantaloons at this date, were leather or silk sash—was worn to decorative and practical.
shoes
falling out of style. Canions—the support the sword. With military Charles II brought to
form of under breeches with elaborate dress the baldrick could be used England the heels and red
trimmings, which fell below the hem to denote the allegiance or rank soles earlier introduced
of the petticoat breeches—had been of a soldier before the by Louis XIV at the
popular in the early part of the century. introduction of uniforms. French court.
Felt hat
OPULENCE RESTORED 131
Hats off The fashion for
large, heavy wigs led to
men removing hats indoors
because it was more CHARLES II
comfortable without them. Plain
In summer waistcoats Button linen
(vests) were abandoned for fastenings collar
coolness in favor of a coat
worn directly over the
linen shirt.

1660

Felt hat

Garter rosettes add


decorative touch

Old and new There was a new fashion for


In 1660 King Charles II returned from exile
straight-cut tunics worn over a waistcoat (vest). This
in France to take the English throne. He was
Buckled practical ensemble is part old-fashioned, sleeved
known for his love of fashionable dress and
shoes mantle, part up-to-the-minute tunic. The broad linen
collar resembles lace collars of the time but is plainer.
introduced styles from the French court. In
1666 he introduced a more sober style of
dressing of a coat, waistcoat (vest), and
breeches in black silk over white. This is
Montero
cap seen as the origin of the three-piece suit.
Ribbon
embellishment
Full-bottomed wig
Lace
cravat
Wide-brimmed hat

Fur trim Hat carried


under arm
Full-bottomed wig

Tiered cravat
Lace cuff

1670 1675
Lace cuff
Silk
breeches
Patterned Baldrick (silk
silk fabric sword sash)

Stockings

Decorative trim
Fashionable hats were
decorated with galloon
(gold braiding), feather
trims, and ribbon rosettes.
Home wear A nightgown was an informal garment Heavy wigs Long, curled, full-bottomed wigs Hat brims were often
worn at home, similar to a robe. Inspired by Eastern became fashionable. Calottes (small linen caps) were turned up at dramatic
styles, it was made from rich silks or decorative worn beneath to absorb the sweat. France’s Louis XIV angles. The tiered cravat
printed cottons. A montero—an informal cap with had a large collection, and Charles II popularized this is made of layers of fine
flaps of fur or cloth—completed this look. style in England when he came to the throne. linen overlaid with lace.
132 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO
Fashionably
high forehead

1660 –1680

BONED BODICE Jeweled


Long,
curling
hair

TO MANTUA
ornament
at breast
Elbow-length,
tightly set Full
Dropped sleeves restrict sleeves
movement

T
waist
he 20 years between 1660 and 1680 saw
significant change in women’s fashions
and in society in general. In England King
Charles II reclaimed the throne, while in France 1660
King Louis XIV established the Palace of
Versailles, re-establishing the monarchy as the
center of patronage and high fashion. The Clothes
evolution of women’s clothing saw the slow made of rich
silk brocade
demise of the dress made up of a boned bodice, Bands of
applied lace
a skirt, and gown, and the beginnings of the
mantua, a loose gown with an overskirt
elaborately draped at the back. New styles
demanded different expertise, and women’s
dress was now made by mantua makers, Rigid bodice The distinctive round shape of Royal gown Queen of France Marie-Thérése
women’s dress in the 1660s was achieved by (wife of Louis XIV) wears a boned bodice, and
although more structured garments a tightly boned bodice with strips of whalebone matching skirt and gown (edged with ermine)
were still constructed by stay makers inserted into finely stitched channels. Separate of the finest woven silk. Her deep collar is of
and tailors. Women selected fabric sleeves were tied to the garment at the shoulder. exquisite, Flemish bobbin lace.
and trimmings for dresses, including
lace, from visiting drapers, linen and
Stock tied
silk merchants, and milliners. at neck
Large,
Long lace lappets
(decorative flaps), painted or
or scarf, pinned to printed fan
back of hair
Riding clothes Women wore a
particular type of clothing to travel
on horseback in the 17th century. Loose jacket
of wool or silk Lace-edged
A “safeguard” was a loose skirt worn sleeve ruffles
to keep off the dust, and there are
also references to women wearing an
early style of tailored jacket for riding.
Gown held
up at back

1675 1678
Safeguard

Slender Separate
walking skirt, known
cane as petticoat

A new style During the 1670s a full-length


gown was worn buttoned across the chest, and
open below to reveal the petticoat. The skirts
were caught up and draped at the back in a
loose bustle arrangement.
BONED BODICE TO MANTUA 133
Lines of curls
across high
forehead
Pendant pearl
earrings CORSETS
Ringlets
In the 17th-century finely
Round bodice with boned garments, sometimes
low décolletage
referred to as corsets, were worn
as bodices (the visible upper part
of a dress). Boned garments began
Loose, white to be known as le corps (a pair of
linen billowing
shift beneath stays). They contained tabs, which
spread out to allow for the roundness
of the hips. The woven silk was designed
to be seen. By the 1680s this boned
style had become an undergarment worn
beneath the new looser styles of dress such
Pair of
stays as the mantua.

Headdress of layers
of fine silk scarves
Tight
Draped silk fabric, and lengths of lace
curls
including length
of silk across
one shoulder

Fan was
Artistic convention Portraits by British artist fashionable
accessory
Sir Peter Lely show the drapery of 17th-century
fashion, but details are indistinct. Anne Hyde,
Duchess of York, wears a peach satin gown with
open sleeves showing the shift underneath.

Hair now brought


forward over Fine silk and
forehead lace head
Elbow-length
covering
sleeves
Headdress of silk Front-closure
and lace called bodice, worn
a commode closed
Woven silks Gowns and
petticoats were made of matching
or contrasting silks hand woven in
France and Italy on a drawloom.
More subtle silk designs were
being replaced by large-scale,
exotic patterns, which came
to be known as bizarre silks.

Patterned skirt,
likely to be French
woven silk

Large-scale
patterned silk

Lengthening Reverse of
Narrow band fabric seen
or ruffle at hem hem
at back
of petticoat

Lace headdress Increasingly toward the end of Toward the mantua At the end of the 17th
the 17th century women wore layers of fine silk century the mantua made an appearance. It
gauze and lace on headdresses. It came to be was an unstructured style with the skirts of the
known as a commode, so-called after the wire gown folded up at the sides and the back so Hem with
structure that supported the towering styles. that the underside of the fabric could be seen. small flounce
BAROQUE AND ROCOCO 135

FASHION
RESTORED
The Restoration of the English monarchy in 1660 signaled the
dawn of a new age of prosperity for the English aristocracy,
which was reflected in the fashions of the time. Charles II was
self-indulgent and foppish, and his courtiers soon followed
suit. Despite their extravagances, English nobles took an
interest in charitable causes, such as the one depicted in the
painting, The Tichborne Dole, opposite, in which the Lord of
the Manor in the village of Tichborne distributes bread to the
poor. This painting showcases the lavish fashions worn by the
noble class, in contrast with those worn by the less fortunate.

The central male figure in the middle ground wears a long


and ornate waistcoat, fastened with close-set buttons from
throat to hem, underneath a plainer coat. This was one
of the many fashions introduced by Charles II. The figure
also wears an elaborate lace cravat and a periwig, an
indispensable part of wealthy fashionable attire. Shoes
are high heeled and square toed.

The two women to his left show female fashions of the


day. Their bodices, with a horizontal décolletage, are long,
pointed, and fastened in the front with jeweled clasps. They
wear full-puffed sleeves to the elbows, and their skirts are
gathered at the hips in tight pleats, opening down the front
over an ornate petticoat. Their bodice and skirts are joined,
but poorer women would wear them separately, in different
colors. Skirts were raised—to the toe for court women and to
the instep for peasant women. Though the women use stays,
the overall effect is one of increasing freedom.

The King hath in Council declared


his resolution of setting a fashion
for clothes, which he will never
alter. It will be a vest, I know not
well how, but it is to teach the
nobility thrift, and will do good.
SAMUEL PEPYS, OCTOBER 8, 1666

◁ THE TICHBORNE DOLE This scene, painted by Gillis van Tilborgh in 1671,
depicts an English festival of charity during the Feast of the Annunciation.
136 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO High
peaked
wig
Finishing touch This long,
1685 –1720 flared coat is worn with shoes

TOWARD
with a fashionably high
tongue. The tongue could be
folded over to reveal a colored
lining and was often cut into a

THE SUIT
scallop shape around the edge.

T
Decorated
he silhouette of the coat became increasingly exaggerated, worn pocket flaps
tight on the waist and flaring to full pleated skirts below. Decorative
braiding was applied along the center front closure, pockets, and
cuffs. Sleeves became longer and tighter, but cuffs remained large. The
waistcoat, still fit close to the body, was now worn shorter than the coat.
While the waistcoat front was richly decorated, the back was
frequently made of plainer fabric since it was rarely seen. Ostrich Buttons on
feather center front
Breeches were worn narrower and closer to the leg, plumes closure
fastening just above or below the knee. They were made
from the same material as the coat or from a plain black
Tricorn
fabric—the forerunner of the suit. From the 1690s large (cocked hat) Square-toed
worn with shoes with
ornamental buttons became popular on pockets with decorative point to front high tongue
flaps and on cuffs as well as forming the front closure. These and matching
heel
buttons could be made from decorative metal or from the
same fabric as the coat and finished with embroidery.

Gold galloon
braiding
CLOTHES SELLER on arms

Expensive garments were made to


measure, but there were many ways of
buying cheaper clothing. Basic garments
such as shirts and breeches could be Ornate Waistcoat
bought in towns and cities from large pocket worn open
flap to reveal
clothing warehouses, and secondhand linen shirt
garments could be purchased in markets
or from clothes sellers. These traders Buttons
are more
carried their wares around decorative
the streets, ready to sell Lavishly
to any interested embroidered
customers. In order to cuffs
be able to carry as much
stock as possible, this
clothes seller wears his
hats piled on top of
his head, allowing
customers to instantly
recognize his trade.

Cocked hat The wide-brimmed felt hat was Laced breeches Gathered into a
now worn with the brim turned up in three folds waistband, breeches could be adjusted
to create a style known as a tricorn. Rich gold by laces at the center back. They were
Engraving of old cloak
and hat seller galloon braiding was added as a decorative trim held up with a tie around the waist,
on the turned-up edges. often a decorative sash.
TOWARD THE SUIT 137
Cocked hat
with braid
decoration Double peaks The wig’s height reached a
Lace cravat
central point in the 1690s, echoing the shape
with bow of the female fontange style. The
fullness then divided into double
Double-peaked, peaks. By 1710 this impractical
full-bottomed wig style was replaced by styles such
as the campaign wig—hair tied
back in three sections.

Enormous
lace cuffs Wide cuff with
decorative
buttons

Gold
embroidered
edging

Fine wool
becomes
popular for
coats

Leather shoes
with turned-
over tongue

Royal attire Louis XIV introduced a style Suit ensemble The coat, waistcoat,
of dress justaucorps à brevet—a blue coat and breeches were now known as a suit.
with gold embroidery and lined with scarlet. Along with silk, fine wool in blue and brown
Highly coveted, it was worn by the French became popular as it was warm and practical,
royal family and 50 selected courtiers. and could support heavy embellishments.

Hat carried
under arm
Long, Garter
curled wig surrounds
Fine lace shield of
cravat St. George
Gold collar with
pendant figure of
St. George

Silk woven
with gold
thread pattern

Waist-sash Garter hat with


tassels visible ostrich feather
below coat plumes

Cloak with
white silk
lining

High tongue with


scalloped edge

Lace cravat The large, wide collar gave way Order of the Garter Garter robes, for those awarded
to a separate necktie (cravat). Costly lace the UK’s highest honor, consisted of a blue velvet
styles were reserved for the most formal mantle, the left shoulder embroidered with the garter
occasions, but a steinkirk (long, plain linen encircling the shield of St. George. The buckled, blue
cravat) became popular for men and women. velvet garter was worn around the left calf.
138 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

1681 –1720

MANTUAS AND
Curled hair
worn loose

Rolled full
sleeves of

PETTICOATS
linen smock

F
rom the 1680s the mantua became the chief item of women’s
dress, with a linen smock or shift remaining as the main
undergarment. A full-length, coatlike garment with elbow-
length sleeves, the mantua was worn over the stiffened bodice and 1684
skirt of earlier periods. Closed from neck to waist, the sides and
back were folded up and secured at the waistline to reveal the skirt
below. To fit beneath the mantua, the bodice had straps instead
of sleeves and was formed like a corset. It opened down the center
back with a lace closure and was still long and stiffened and
cut low on the chest. The petticoat was full and gathered in at the
waistline. By the 1690s the top part of the mantua was worn open
to show the bodice. It was filled in with a decorative panel known as
a stomacher, which was pinned on to the stiffened bodice beneath.

Silk nightgown During the Restoration


famous beauties were painted in languid poses
wearing rich silk casual robes (called nightgowns) over a
Long scarf
covers head linen smock. This red silk garment, worn by Charles II’s
mistress, has decorative fringing and metal clasps.

Long, Cone-shaped
pointed bodice narrows
to waist Ruby clasps fix
bodice
cloak to mantua

Mantua drawn
back over hips

1697 1709
Ermine-trim
cloak
Gathered
petticoat
Textured
silk

Riding hood Long scarves were often worn to cover Bejeweled mantua This silver-gray silk mantua,
the head outdoors, and riding hoods (hooded cloaks) worn by the Duchess of Burgundy, is embellished
were also popular. The long, cloaklike fabric shown with rubies and other jewels. Over this she wears Gold fringe
here may have been used more for effect in a portrait an ermine-trimmed cloak of blue and gold brocade, trim
than as a practical wearable garment. fixed at her shoulders with jeweled clasps.
Commode
headdress
MANTUAS AND PETTICOATS 139
Fan Fontange
headdress
of lace
Hood made
from light
muslin scarf

Decorative
braiding
Ruffled Soft calf-leather
edging of gloves
linen smock

Sleeve
ruffles

1688 1690 1695


Mantua train
with contrast
Petticoat with lining
Mantua horizontal
train striped pattern

Fringed
trimming

Folded train Toward the end of the Tall cap The fontange cap was worn flat Mantua and petticoat By the end of the century
17th century the train on the mantua became at the back of the head, rising up high above the the mantua and petticoat were made from
much longer. The sides were intricately folded crown in layers of lace and ribbon, often supported matching fabric, with contrasting material used for
and pinned up at the back of the skirt to reveal by a wire-frame commode. It was named after the lining of the mantua. Petticoats were decorated
ever more elaborate linings. Madame Fontange, who originated the ribbon style. with horizontal bands of lace or fringing (furbelows).

STAYS AND STOMACHER


Cocked hat
White silk with feather
wrapping gown decoration
Elbow-length
sleeves Lacing at
Blue drapery center back
adds classical
effect

Colorful
embroidery

1715 1720
Long
full skirt

Stays Stomacher

Stays or bodices, still an essential part of


women’s dress, were made of whalebone
stitched between two layers of buckram,
Wrapping gown An informal robe known as a Riding dress Women’s riding habit evolved a stiffened linen fabric. Bodices were often
nightgown or wrapping gown fell loose from the from male styles of dress, with a coat worn covered with embroidered silk; a decorated
shoulders and was worn over a bodice, petticoat, and over a waistcoat (vest) and petticoat. The habit panel, or stomacher, might be worn over the
linen smock or shift. A popular choice for portraits was often decorated with metal braiding and top for further embellishment or contrast.
such as this one, it was seen as a timeless garment. frogging (horizontal bands across the front).
140 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO Pleated fabric Three layers of
over the top sleeve ruffles lined
of bodice with silk and edged
FORMAL GOWN Rigid bodice with a
with silver lace

EMBROIDERED
square neckline

MANTUA
T
he name “mantua” may have been derived from the Italian town
of the same name where luxury silks were produced, or from the
French word for coat—manteau. Originally an informal gown that
was open at the front, the mantua was gradually draped back over the
hips to reveal the petticoat beneath. Its shape changed again with the
introduction of the hooped petticoat, an underskirt of canvas or linen
with inserted rings made of whalebone or cane. The hoop took on
several silhouettes, becoming wide and flat toward the middle of
the century. Very broad gowns like this example
from 1753 were reserved for formal
occasions, when women wearing
the mantua were obliged to slide
sideways through doors.

Triangular stomacher
panel decorated with
silver lace and ribbon

Fabric woven of
silk threads and
strips of flattened
silver metal
EMBROIDERED MANTUA 141

IN DETAIL
◁ STOMACHER
The triangular piece of fabric
worn center front—the
stomacher—was first pinned
to the stays (a heavily boned
underbodice) before the gown
was pulled into position and
secured with pins. Diamonds
might adorn the stomacher
on grand occasions.

BACK VIEW SIDE VIEW ◁ CENTER BACK SEAM


The silk has been carefully pieced
together so that the pattern is
Wide hips created by mirrored on either side of the
the hooped petticoat central seam that runs down the
worn underneath back of the gown. The mantua
developed from a loose gown
that was originally draped into
graceful pleats before these
came to be stitched into position.
The arrangement of fabric at the
back of the waist alludes to
earlier incarnations of the mantua
gown. These would have had
their open skirts swathed
toward the back, where a
long train was looped up and
arranged in pleats.

ANGLED SIDE
VIEW

◁ SLEEVE RUFFLES
During the 1740s deep sleeve
Skirt constructed cuffs were replaced with ruffles,
from narrow usually worn in three layers.
widths of fabric Sometimes a lead weight, the
sewn together
size of a large coin and covered
in fabric, was attached inside the
bottom of the sleeve to prevent
it from riding up.

◁ BROCADE
The silk is brocaded, which
means that the complicated
pattern was woven into the
fabric, rather than embroidered
onto it. At least 14 different
colors and four types of silver
thread were used, reflecting
the light in different ways
and sparkling beautifully
in candlelight.
142 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

1720 – 1770

MANTUAS AND
Open robe This 1738 open
robe of lustrous brocaded silk is
worn with a separate petticoat
over a circular hoop made of

OPEN ROBES
cane or whalebone. The robe is
open down to the waist over a
triangular stomacher decorated
with a single bow.

T
Robings
hroughout most of the 18th century Stomacher

the basic style of women’s dress was


the open robe, a garment that was put
on somewhat like a modern-day coat. A
separate skirt known as a petticoat was worn Engageantes
beneath, and the gap at the bodice covered (sleeve ruffles)

by a stiffened panel called a stomacher, which


was pinned in place to the robe by a series of Large-
scale silk
tabs. The robings (foldback edges of the pattern
gown) covered the pin heads. Fashion for the
most formal occasions was set at the French
court of King Louis XV and copied throughout
Europe, particularly the style known as
le grand habit—a heavily boned bodice, and
a separate, richly decorated skirt and train.
The mantua, a style of dress that involved
folding and draping the sides and the back
panel, was also popular and seen at the
English courts of the Hanoverian kings.
Reproduction
lace trim

Buttoned
stomacher

Elbow-length Separate
sleeves with petticoat
flounced ends

SHOES
For most of the 18th century
women’s shoes were made of
fabric. Although the material might
be patterned dress silk, it was not
usual to choose a gown and shoes Tip-up, pointed-toe shoe Lower heel in 1740s
in matching material. Sometimes
separate leather overshoes were
worn to protect the fabric shoes.
Rococo robe The undulating lines of the design A metal buckle decorated with
on this dress silk are characteristic of the mid-18th- cut-glass pastes was pinned
century rococo movement in the decorative arts. into the latchets (side straps)
The robe falls in softer, less formal folds than the to fasten the shoes. Latchets or straps flap across the vamp (top) of shoe
exaggerated lines of the heavily hooped dresses.
MANTUAS AND OPEN ROBES 143

Woven silk
with large-scale
botanical design Open bodice Silk embroidered
with gap filled in silver gilt and
by stomacher colored silk thread
Silver strip and
silver filé thread

Pleated
Back panel Painted
sleeves
turned up leaf fan
Side panels Tree of Life
draped to embroidery Separate lace
center of fantasy fruit sleeve ruffles
and flowers
Train folded
up at rear

Mantua
side
panels

Mantua The mantua was a style left over from English court This ribbed silk mantua embroidered Parading wealth France and England boasted the
the end of the 17th century, and by this date with over 11 lb (5 kg) of silver metal thread was worn finest professional embroidery workshops. In the 18th
was only worn at the most formal occasions. at the court of King George II in Britain. Side hoops, century, dress was a way of parading wealth—everybody
Technically the mantua is the bodice, but which gave this exaggerated rectangular shape, knew that your family was rich and important if you
the term is also used for the style of dress. were introduced as court dress in the 1740s. wore a costly mantua such as this one.

Fitted Double pleats


back Naturalistic at shoulders
floral design
Double
pleats
Pleated flap Flounced
Sleeve sleeve ends
ruffles

Saffron-yellow,
a favorite
18th-century
color

Decorative
trim

Separate
skirt or
petticoat

Silver metal thread Silk painted with


Trailing flowers and foliage
embroidery at hem
hem

Transitional style By the 1750s formal Hand-painted Chinese silk Robes and Sack back Originally a nightgown style,
fashions were changing and the draped petticoats made from painted silk were all the the French sacque (sack back) became the
style of the mantua was replaced by rage in the 1760s and 1770s. Heavily patterned, most fashionable and graceful dress style
a bodice, which had only a hanging woven dress silks were going out of fashion to in mid-18th century England. The double
pleated flap from waist to hem. This be replaced in part by painted and printed pleats falling from the shoulders gave the
was the forerunner to the court train. fabrics imported from China and India. distinctive triangular shape.
144 BAROQUE AND ROCOCO

GOWN AND PE T TICOAT

SACK BACK Dress is cut away


(open) at the front

DRESS Stomachers were


often beautifully

T
embroidered
he sack back dress, also known as a robe à
la française, started out as an informal style
in France earlier in the 18th century. It came
to be the most elegant dress for most of the
midcentury throughout Europe and the
fashionable world. The sack back could be worn
in two ways. The pleats could hang straight down
from the back of the shoulders into a slight train.
In the alternative polonaise style, the back fabric
was tucked up using tapes in the waistband to
create fullness at the back. The dress was cut
away at the front, and so would have been worn
with a triangular stomacher, as well as a matching
petticoat. A pair of stays worn under the dress kept
the bodice rigid and flat fronted and molded the
body into the fashionable cone shape, with a narrow
waist widening to the bust.
The robe is worn
open to reveal
the petticoat

Heavily pleated