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michael p. londrigan
lim, the college for
the business of fashion
1. menswear—the past 1
2. customer demographics 33
3. design 69
4. manufacturing 105
5. retailing 147
6. menswear and the media 191
7. tailored clothing 225
8. furnishings 269
9. formal wear 309
10. sportswear 331
11. trends in the menswear market 359
12. supporting cast 387
Glossary 412
Photo Credits 424
Index 426
1. menswear—the past
Ancient Greeks, Fifth Century BC 4
Ancient Romans, First to Fifth Centuries 4
Saxons and Normans, 5
Fifth to Fourteenth Centuries
Medieval, Twelfth to Fifteenth Centuries 6
Sixteenth Century 9
Preface XV Eighteenth Century 10
Acknowledgments XVII Nineteenth Century 11
Twentieth Century 17
Early to Mid-Twentieth Century (1900–1949) 17
Mid-Twentieth Century to Turn 18
of the Century (1950–Present)
○ The Barney’s Experience 23
○ Those Double Knit Blues 25
○ The Suit Rule 28
Concluding Thoughts 29
Key Terms 30
Discussion Questions 31
References 31
vii
extended contents
ix
extended contents
xi
extended contents
xiii
xv
preface
acknowledgments
I would like to dedicate this textbook to Olga Kontzias, Jennifer Crane, Joseph
my Mom and Dad; I know they would be Miranda, all with Fairchild Publications;
very proud if they were here today. Ron and Adrianna Edwards, Matthew and
To my loving wife, Marie; none of this Ellen Dudley, Linda Aspen-Baxter, and
would be possible if she had not encour- Susan McNish, all with Focus Strategic
aged, guided, and been there for me on Communications; Professor Guy Adamo
our life journey together. To my son, Paul, and to all my colleagues at Berkeley Col-
and daughter, Leah, for their love and lege whom I have had the good fortune
support, and to all those who have helped to work with in the past; and to all those
in the process along the way—I couldn’t many people who have crossed my path
have done it without you! in my menswear career here in the United
States and around the globe, I thank you.
xvii
DESIGN
designers
71
design
73
design
75
design
77
design
79
design
81
design
licensing
83
design
ron’s inspiration
85
industry changes
design
textiles
87
design
89
design
91
design
93
design
technology
95
○ call up a design
○ drape a fabric on a virtual model
○ rotate that model 360 degrees to see how
the garment looks
○ change pattern size, colors, and silhouettes,
all with the click of a mouse
lectra
Lectra is a worldwide organization that de-
velops, produces, and distributes software and
design
97
design
99
design
101
concluding thoughts
The goals of this chapter were to help you a basic understanding of these key elements,
learn the following: you position yourself to better understand
how the design process works. Another inter-
○ the steps in the design process
esting aspect of the men’s fashion business is
○ how changes in fiber and fabric devel-
how and why designers, companies, and re-
opment affect the textiles designers
tailers enter into licensing agreements. These
use to create their lines of apparel
agreements are extensions of the core busi-
○ how developments in technology
nesses and, when handled properly, can be a
affect the design process
source of additional profit potential.
○ the potential and business ramifications
In the next chapter, you will look at how
of entering into licensing agreements
menswear is made. Chapter 4 discusses the
These objectives were met through a manufacturing process and reviews sourcing
series of interviews and discussions about- options. The chapter will guide you through
some of the changing and innovative tech- the steps used in the industry to make mens-
nologies affecting the textile market today. wear products. It examines how research in-
Fibers, yarns, and textiles are the foundation teracts with design and manufacturing in the
from which all designs originate. By getting industry and what quality control means.
design
discussion questions
1. Use the Internet to research Gerber 2. List five menswear designers and
Technology and Lectra. How are the describe in your own words who you
two companies different? How are think their target customers are.
they similar? If you were going into 3. This chapter discussed the process of
production, sales, or marketing in the licensing. Describe five menswear
menswear business, which of these designers that have entered into
companies would you likely choose to licensing agreements. What products
provide the software and hardware you are covered by these agreements?
would need to run a successful busi-
ness? Why?
references
103