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Part I
Identifying problems and verifying die setup
Business, it is my strong opinion that there is a definite lack of data in the metal stamping and die-building
industry. We often make decisions based on the way we learned the trade, or because it worked last
time, or because “that’s how we do it here.”
I’m not saying that making decisions based on past experience causes failure, but I am asking, Where’s
the data?
No estoy diciendo que las decisiones basadas en experiencias pasadas
Are stampers and die builders expected to make changes to the process based on experience? It’s
a hard pill to swallow, but if I’m completely honest with myself, my years of die experience are of little
value to me. It’s what I have learned in my past that’s of value, not the time I’ve spent. Thirty, 40, or
even 50 years of making poor decisions based on insufficient data doesn’t add up to much value.
The key is to understand why failures occur and to support your corrective decisions with data, not
opinions. To do this, you can use a simple, multistep troubleshooting process, tailoring it for your
resources, operating procedures, and die creation.
Identifying part problems is usually fairly easy. These can include splitting, cracking, nonconforming
part geometry, wrinkling, loose metal, understrained parts, excessive burrs, scratches, dents, slug
depressions, and score marks.
The person inspecting the part needs to have a clear understanding of each type of failure and be
able to communicate it clearly to the person responsible for correcting the problem.
Verify the die shut height, stop block lead readings, and press tonnage readings. If you are using
bottom makers, verify that they are visible and to the correct depth in the part and/or scrap.
Make sure the die is tight against the positive location stops and is parallel to the coil.
Verify that the lubricant application method is correct, ensure the die and metal are getting
lubricated as necessary, and make sure all sprayers and rollers are working properly.
Check the thickness, width, and metal mechanical properties of the incoming coil material.
Verify the pilot and feed release timing on progressive dies.
Make sure the feed distance (pitch) is set correctly.
Ensure that pressure systems, such as nitrogen systems, press cushions, and hydraulic pressure
systems, are charged to the correct operating pressure.
Verify that the die is flush with the bolster plate and ram. Make sure there is no debris underneath
the die shoes, castings, or plates.
Check all remaining press parameters, such as counterbalance and clutch pressure.
Make sure all locators and gauges are in their correct positions and that the blank is being properly
located.
Verify that there are no pieces of loose scrap, slugs, or obstructions in the die.
Ensure the coil material is being adequately straightened, leveled, and flattened before entering the
die. Periodic adjustments in the straightening equipment might be needed during production.
Make sure scrap and slugs falling from the die are being carried away properly and that all slug
shuts and shakers are functioning correctly.
Verify that all bolts securing the die in the press are tight.
As much as I like to present data based on an understanding of sheet metal physics and dies,
occasionally I still find myself standing at the press scratching my head and asking myself, What in
the world is going on here?
The key is to eliminate systematically, one by one, all of the controlling variables. Only then can you
say, “Based on the data presented or discovered, it is my opinion that ….”
I’ll present the rest of the troubleshooting steps in Part II, which will appear in the March/April issue.
In the November/December 2013 issue of STAMPING Journal, I wrote an article called "How to
destroy a press." I received a pretty good response from it, so I decided to write down some of my
thoughts about dies are often damaged.
Please note that this article highlights the don’ts. You might laugh at some of these, but believe me,
I’ve seen them all.
Never clean your dies. Instead, leave all of the grinding grit in them. Never inspect gas cylinders for
leaks, and always overpressurize them so that they blow out seals as soon as possible. Don’t
inspect the die before it goes into the press. Just assume that you took care of all of your tools and
that you didn’t leave your micrometer under a pressure pad that bottoms out on the die.
Shim cutting and forming sections crooked so you will be certain to destroy the die. Be sure to make
them tilt a lot. Avoid grinding the bottoms flat; just keep shimming them crooked. Also be sure to use
more than three shims under each block. If you really want cutting sections to break, use 15 shims,
each 0.005 inch, under a block instead of a single 0.075-in. shim. This will ensure that the tool steel
section deflects and bends under load.
Make sure that your shims overhang the slug drop area, because this will surely keep the slugs from
falling through the die. In fact, to guarantee a slug up, forget putting the slug drop area in the shim
altogether. Just assume that the slugs will make their own holes.
Don’t worry about postheating or drawing the tool steel back after welding it. Don’t grind out any tool
steel cracks—just weld over them. Also be sure to weld the die right in the press so that weld spatter
goes all over in the die.
4. Never Run Lube on Your Die
4. Nunca uses lubricacion en el troquel en la corrida.
Never use lube on your die, especially if you’re doing operations such as deep drawing
of stainless or high-strength steel. If you are going to use lube, mix it with the hand
check method. If it feels right, it must be right. This will surely result in scoring and
galling.
Don’t worry about getting lube where it is most effective—just blast the stop block will gallons of the
stuff. Never lubricate both sides of the strip. And don’t forget to run heavy chlorinated lubes on solid-
carbide dies. Chlorine will surely result in carbide damage.
Don’t worry if the ram of the press is out of parallel with the bolster plate. Just assume that the die
will make everything flat and parallel.
To use the stop blocks incorrectly, remove them and set your shut height based on how it sounds
when the ram hits bottom. If you’re not getting a good part, keep lowering the ram until everything is
just right. Heck, you might even get a “twofer” out of that one—you will break the press and the die!
Use things like old cigarette butts and a matchstick to set the shut height.
If your die is equipped with die protection sensors and limit switches, unhook them; better yet, throw
them out. Just assume that the press operator is really quick and will be able to avoid crashes.
I hope I haven’t sounded too cynical. I have always felt that it is just as important to know what not to
do as what to do. I have just scratched the surface of the don’ts. I’m sure there are hundreds of other
things that could destroy a die.
I must get two or three calls a week from companies needing tool- and diemakers, die maintenance
specialists, or die repair specialists. The demand for skilled labor has skyrocketed in the last year or
so.
I am a tool- and diemaker. I am proud of it. If I had to start over again, I would be a tool- and
diemaker. I don’t have a college degree, yet I travel around the world conducting training and
performing consulting. I don’t have a college degree, but I am the author of this column and have
been for almost 15 years. I don’t have a college degree, but I make a good living doing what I love.
The tool and die trade is a professional career equal to any career that requires a college or
university degree. It requires a great deal of skill and knowledge to design, troubleshoot, and repair
stamping dies.