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ITALIA!
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20 74
IN THISAugust
ISSUE201 7
HOLIDAYS
20 A FAMILY TRIP TO CEFALÙ
Lorenza Bacino and her family enjoyed the
FOOD & DRINK
54 TRULLO DELICIOUS
Make pici pasta, plus three dishes for a
85
April sunshine exploring this delightful town summer lunch party, with Tim Siadatan.
and the nearby Madonie Regional Park.
58 IN SEASON – AUGUST
28 LOOKING FOR LODI Early summer vegetables are joined this
Rachael Martin descends from Milan into month by a variety of fruits and fish.
the Po Valley to discover the home town of
64 BUY ITALIA!
her mother-in-law.
Jarred pesto on test.
48 STIRRING STUFF
45
66 LAURA’S PASTA SECRETS
Amanda Robinson discovers authentic
Laura Santtini reveals the secret to
Italian flavours and new friends at a hands-
mantecare – how to create sauce for pasta.
on cookery course in the Veneto hills.
69 DRINK ITALIA!
CULTURE
98
Our pick of six wines to enjoy this summer.
36 FAST ART
We talk a lot about what a painting is of, but
not about what is made of… Freya Middleton
PROPERTY
74 HOMES IN VENETO
69
tells the history of the painting medium. Buyers should take a closer look at this
northeastern region, says Fleur Kinson.
38 A SHINING LIGHT
We talk to novelist Emylia Hall about 84 PROPERTY SHOWCASE
inspiration and Italian food. House-buying opportunities in Italy.
45 FAST CULTURE 85 WELCOME TO LE MARCHE
Joe Gartman goes on the trail of Lionardo What to see and do in Le Marche.
Buonarroti, and the family palace he
renovated in Florence. 93 PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT
Homes to buy in Le Marche.
p48 VENETO
p28 LODI
FLORENCE p45
p98 ROME
RAVELLO p26
p20 CEFALÙ
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was available from Rialto fish market that day able to see any of the various rare birds and lizards
was on the menu – Venetian favourites like that live on the island. But your second picture is one
sardines in saor, cuttlefish and spider crabs – the of the funniest we’ve seen for a long time! True story:
menu was a dream come true for a fish lover like your sub-editor once slipped up on a ‘Caution, Slippery
me. We also drank ribolla gialla (orange wine)
Floor’ sign that had fallen over outside Waitrose. He nearly
with our meal – and what a discovery! These
did himself an injury. And so did the people who were
white grapes from Friuli are fermented in the
same way as red, often in traditional clay jars or laughing at him afterwards.
amphorae. The colour is darker (nearly orange)
and the wine has more depth and power than
lighter whites. A perfect complement to our YOU TELL US!
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Iris Hunter, West Sussex ISOLA BELLA questions and recommendations!
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THIS MONTH
August 201 7
In Italian news this month, how to buy
a castle, how to swim to Sicily, and how
to get from 0-60 in under three seconds…
Blera, Lazio
Ever dreamed of living in a castle? Well, now’s your chance – the Italian government is
giving away 103 abandoned historic properties, including castles, towers and monasteries,
absolutely free of charge. But before you get the party poppers out, we should point out
that there’s one small caveat: you’ll need to show evidence that you have the means and
know-how to do that property up and turn it into a prosperous tourist site. The initiative
is part of Italy’s Strategic Tourism Plan, which has been designed to prevent overcrowding
in the more obvious hotspots, such as Venice and Florence, by diverting sightseers
elsewhere. Among the properties up for grabs are the 11th-century Castello di Blera near
Rome, and the 13th-century Castello di Montefiore in the Marche region. “The goal is for
private and public buildings that are no longer used to be transformed into facilities for
Montefiore dell’Aso,
pilgrims, hikers, tourists and cyclists,” said a spokesman for the State Property Agency.
Le Marche Successful entrepreneurs will initially be given a nine-year lease of their chosen property,
with the option to renew for a further nine years.
S...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...S
TAKING AWAY THE TAKEAWAYS UBER GETS A LIFT
Venice has become the latest Italian city to clamp down Italian courts have temporarily lifted a ban on
on fast-food restaurants. A new law prevents new kebab Uber taxis operating in the country, while an
shops and similar outlets opening, and also limits appeal is heard. In April, the US-based firm –
Images © iStock unless otherwise stated
the number of businesses selling pizza by which enables people to hail cabs via an app, and
the slice. “We want to put the brakes on often at cheaper prices – was given ten days to
activities that are not compatible with terminate its service in Italy after traditional taxi
the preservation and development of drivers complained that Uber workers were getting
our cultural heritage,” said tourism chief an unfair advantage. Said a spokesman for the
Paola Mar. Last year, Verona banned new company: “We are very happy to be able to tell all
kebab shops, while Florence said any new restaurants Uber drivers and users in Italy that they’ll be able
and food shops in its historic centre would have to to continue to use the application pending the
ensure that 70 per cent of their produce was local. court’s ruling on our appeal.”
ETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS
GOODBYE TO FASHION ROYALTY BEAR NECESSITIES
One of Italy’s best-loved fashion designers, Laura A population of about 50 brown bears eking out a
Biagiotti, has died of a heart attack aged 73. precarious living in the Abruzzo National Park may
Biagiotti’s knits earned her the nickname ‘The have found the means to survive and increase its
Queen of Cashmere’, and she notched up a number number. Recently, six reproductive females have been
of milestones during her career – in 1988, she identified and it is estimated that ten pups were
became the first Italian to put on a fashion show produced last year. The Marsican brown bear, the
in China, and in 1995 she was the first to hold a symbol of the Abruzzo National Park, is a critically
show inside the Kremlin. Laura’s daughter Lavinia endangered species, and though every effort is made by
announced her death on Twitter with a quote the authorities to protect the population, conflict with
from the Bible: “In my Father’s house are many humans also trying to eke out a living in the region still
mansions. If it were not so, I would have told you. occasionally occurs, particularly, it would seem, with
I am going to prepare a place for you.” honey farmers. Read more in our feature next issue.
commons.wikimedia.org/w/
index.php?curid=56889262
zerland, CC BY 4.0, https://
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Italy – we could be
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ITALIA!’S
Top picks
This month’s selection includes ideas for
al fresco feasts, home décor, organic wines,
a creative holiday in Umbria and much more
WINE O’CLOCK
Cin cin! New organic and
biodynamic Italian wines,
www.abelandcole.co.uk
HOT SEAT
Limited edition Vespa
Scooter Chair, £820
www.smithersof
stamford.com
CUTTING EDGE
Make easy work of chopping
herbs with this mezzaluna
blade and board, £10.99,
www.lakeland.co.uk
CRUNCH TIME
Five flavours of tasty
crostini snacks new
from Filippo Berio
£1.99 each, www.
filippoberio.co.uk
16 ITALIA! August
14 December
2017
2013
BASKET CASE
Heart-shaped wicker
hamper, kitted out for
PAINTING HOLIDAYS IN ITALY two, £45, www.marks
For painters of all ages and stages, join Alan Reed
andspencer.com
Art’s painting holiday to Chiesa del Carmine in Umbria,
from 7-14 October. 7-night, full board, 5-star stay with
specialist art tuition. www.reedartholidays.com
December 2013ITALIA!
August 2017 ITALIA! 15
17
1
2
3
4
5 FESTA DELLA
MADONNA DELLA
6 NEVE PALIO DEL GOLFO
5 August 6 August
7 Rome La Spezia
It’s high summer, If you think the Oxford-
8 so why is it snowing Cambridge boat race
around Rome’s can get a bit testy,
9 Basilica di Santa wait till you witness CATANIA TANGO
Maria Maggiore? the Palio del Golfo. FESTIVAL
10 Don’t fret – it’s fake No fewer than 13 boat 9-16 August FEAST OF SAN
snow and is part of a crews, representing Catania LORENZO
11 yearly tradition that the villages around Come on, be honest 10 August
commemorates how this the Bay of La Spezia, – you’re hooked on Florence
12 majestic church came to lock proverbial horns Strictly Come Dancing When the Roman PALIO DEI
be. Legend has it that in a thrilling battle of and would love to Emperor Valerian NORMANNI
13 one night in August a strength and stamina. perform some of those persecuted the 12-14 August PALIO DI SIENA
In the old days, the moves yourself. Well, Christian church in the Piazza Armerina 13-16 August
rich man was visited in
14 his dreams by the Virgin race was contested by this annual festival on 3rd century AD, Saint Norman nobleman Count Siena
fishing boats, and the Sicily’s east coast gives Lawrence was sentenced Roger I is a folk hero If you missed Siena’s
Mary, who instructed
15 him to build a church winning vessel got to you the opportunity to death. Yet even as among Sicilians, having legendary horse race in
sell their catch first. to master your tango he roasted on a spit, he freed the island from July, don’t worry as it
in the place where he
16 found fresh snow the These days, it’s more under the tutelage of refused to share church Arabic rule. In one of runs twice a year – and
about the pride – and world-class instructors. secrets, instead inviting the towns he conquered, this second outing is
following morning. Thus
17 the site of the Basilica having a good old party Once you’ve built up his executioners Piazza Armerina, every bit as dramatic
afterwards. some confidence, try out to “turn me over”. they celebrate his as the first. Once again,
was chosen.
18 www.paliodelgolfo.it your new skills at one of Accordingly, he’s now achievement on a yearly there’s plenty of pomp
the dance events – or, if celebrated annually by basis. The Palio dei and pageantry in the
19 you’ve used up all your comedians and chefs. Normanni begins with run-up, but it’s the main
energy, you could just In Florence, revellers a costumed parade event (on 16 August)
20 sit back and marvel at gather around the and re-enactment of that hundreds come to
some of the maestros in Basilica of San Lorenzo Roger’s brave feats, the Tuscan city to see.
21 action. www.catania for dancing, pasta and and then the action The ten-horse bareback
tangofestival.com watermelon. And the is ramped up a notch race around the Piazza
22 heavens will provide a with a breathtaking del Campo lasts just 75
free firework display – joust contested by seconds, but is so full of
23 with a meteor storm. horseriders from pride and passion you
the town’s different too will feel exhausted
24 districts. by the end of it.
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
Image© iStock
FESTA DEI BEACH ON FIRE BRAVIO DELLE
CANDELIERI 26 August BOTTI
14 August FERRAGOSTO Venice 27 August
Sassari 15 August Don’t worry, it’s not Montepulciano
If you happen to be in Nationwide as dangerous as it Blood, sweat, tears – this
Sardinia today, take This national holiday to sounds – all the drama gruelling annual race in
a trip to Sassari, the celebrate the Assumption at Beach On Fire takes Montepulciano, Tuscany,
island’s second largest of the Blessed Virgin place in the air. It’s has the lot. First held in
city, for its annual Mary just so happens to one of the world’s most 1974, the Bravio delle
Festa dei Candelieri. coincide with the start of spectacular fireworks Botti sees teams of
It happens on 14 the school holidays – so, THE DUKE’S displays, stretching two men each pushing VENICE FILM
August every year in as you might expect, FESTIVAL along 13 kilometres of an 80kg wine barrel FESTIVAL
19 & 20 August the Venetian coast from along an 1,800-metre 30 August – 9 September
commemoration of the most people in Italy
Urbino Punta Sabbioni to the uphill course through Venice
time, back in the 16th drive to the mountains or
No, nothing to do with Cavallino lighthouse, and the streets of the town, The oldest film festival
century, when the Virgin the coast for some family
John Wayne – this has even made it into the the first over the finish in the world has come a
Mary answered the locals’ downtime. If sitting
yearly extravaganza sees Guinness Book of World line getting a coveted long way since opening
prayers and rid the city in traffic jams in the
the people of Urbino, Records. Thousands gawp cloth banner. With its curtains with a
of three deadly plagues. midsummer heat doesn’t
Marche, take a trip back from land and sea as geographical pride screening of Rouben
Thousands crowd the sound like your idea of
in time to the medieval rockets and bangers are at stake (the teams Mamoulian’s Dr Jekyll
streets to witness huge fun, you could always
period, to commemorate propelled simultaneously represent different and Mr Hyde way back
colourful stanchions stay at home and enjoy
the 15th-century death across the night sky – districts), it’s a tense in 1932. These days, it’s
being paraded, and the some peace and quiet –
of Duke Federico da you’ll be hard-pushed and thrilling affair – and regarded as one of the
air is filled with music just be aware that most
Montefeltro, lord of the to find a better photo collisions are common. top three events in the
and merriment. of the shops and cafés
city. There’s plenty to opportunity! Medieval costumes, food industry, and some of
will be closed.
see and do: crossbow and and revelry add to the the silver screen’s top
drumming competitions, general atmosphere. stars descend on the
a medieval craft fair, Venice Lido to attend
a costumed party in prestigious premieres
the main square, and a and pick up gongs in a
magnificent fireworks range of categories. Last
display to finish it all year, La La Land’s Emma
off. We’re sure the Duke Stone was among the
would be touched. glamorous guests.
www.labiennale.org
While we always try our best to present the correct details, please note that dates are subject to change. If you plan to go, check details before you travel.
GAZZETTA ITALIA!
An Italian court has ruled that some managerial appointments involving foreign directors should
never have occurred. Tom Alberto Bull on the new controversy facing Italian museums…
IN PRINT
This month, take a tour (or two) around the
Amalfi Coast, cook healthy, quick recipes at home
and enjoy a summer read set on the island of Elba
A FAMILY TRIP
to Cefalù
Spring is an ideal time for visiting Sicily. The town of Cefalù on the northern coast is particularly
charming before the temperature soars and the hoards descend. Lorenza Bacino and her family
enjoyed the April sunshine exploring this delightful town and the nearby Madonie Regional Park
U
pon reaching our destination of Lascari,
a village on the edge of the Madonie
Regional Park, a short drive from
Cefalù, the grumpy mood in the car
began to lift. Our flight from London to
Palermo had been ridiculously early. Yet upon entering
our modern, light, spacious villa gasps of delight from
the children reassured me that all was forgiven. The
views from the two enormous corner windows – the
shimmering sea in the distance on one side
and the rugged Madonie
cliffs on the other, were
sensational. The patio
Image © iStock
and swimming pool area
provided a perfect spot
for enjoying an aperitif
at sunset and the very
decent wi-fi was much
appreciated, especially
by the two youngsters.
Enticing them away from
our temporary home wasn’t
easy, but here are some of
Images by Lorenza Bacino, Francis Rolt and Max Rolt Bacino unless otherwise stated
is Rolt
Image © Franc
a favourite to buy and take home present town is built on the site Lascari, a short distance from
eu/wp/v/natura/madonie/madonie_5_0034-2.jpg.html, CC BY-SA 2.5 it,
from the nearby Fiasconara shop. of a river, indicating its transition Cefalù. This spacious, light and
modern villa comfortably sleeps
The family has been making their from a military to a commercial
two families of four and has a
delicious recipes since the 1950s centre. It was developed by the
https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1962478
VIEWPOINT The Villa Rufolo looks over the resort of Ravello from its centro storico…
In the Middle Ages, the Villa Rufolo was one of the grandest houses on the
Amalfi coast. Kings stayed here; great poets wrote of it. Today it is famed for its
gardens, the legacy of one Sir Francis Nevile Reid, a Scottish botanist who came
here as a young man in the mid-19th century, saw the ‘potential’ of the old pile
(which had become a bit of a ruin) and put in an offer. Reid, who had always
suffered from chest complaints, lived out his days in this gentle climate.
Image © iStock
how important food is to the Italian The cathedral isn’t the only
way of life. If it’s good food, it’s church that Lodi has to offer. The
worth the drive. But I’d never Tempio Civico di Santa Maria
actually been to Lodi, and when Incoronata is one of the masterpieces
I saw that it was being promoted by of the Lombardy Renaissance with
the Lombardy tourist board as part its breathtaking decorations and
of the Cult Cities project, it seemed octagonal structure designed by
like a good time to go. Battaggio. There’s also the church
This time I’m piling into the car of San Lorenzo, Lodi’s second oldest
with my husband and my kids, and church and another beautiful
we’re off not just looking for Lodi, example of the Romanesque style.
but for a small village near it called
Graffignana. It’s where my mother-
in-law was born, over seventy years
ago, and where she grew up within
an agricultural world until she came
to Milan when she got married.
I can half imagine it, a small village
Images, in the Po Valley with not very much
clockwise from happening and possibly a few very
top left: The good trattorias where you can eat the
Piazza della food of once upon a time.
Vittoria; the
main door of
the Duomo;
HINTS OF SUMMER
looking across We arrive in Lodi on a warm
the River Adda spring Saturday that already hints
from Lodi; under of summer and the people are out
the porticoes for breakfast, shopping or simply
on the Piazza a morning passeggiata, or walk.
della Vittoria;
a conversation
The star of the show, Lodi’s central
outside the square, the Piazza della Vittoria,
Duomo; inside really is as beautiful as they say and
the church a rarity with its porticoes along all
WHERE TO EAT
OSTERIA DEL MERCATO
Via Giuseppina Strepponi, 3
% +39 0371 190 5279
prenotazioni@osteriadelmercato.it
www.osteriadelmercato.it
In some towns a restaurant in this location
(right next to the Duomo) would be a
tourist trap – not so in Lodi. Everything
in this family-run establishment is honest
and home made, including the bread.
GAUDENZI GASTRONOMIA
Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II, 60
% +39 0371 421 914
info@gaudenzigastronomia.it
www.gaudenzigastronomia.it
Also in the centre, offering quality local
produce and takeaway deli food that can
also be eaten on the premises. Try the
cono di Raspadüra, shavings of Tipico
Lodigiano or Grana Padano cheese served
to you in a paper cone.
CAFFÈ VISTARINI
Piazza della Vittoria, 38
Great if you’re looking for something
slightly more special, especially when it
comes to the ambience and the views over
the square (an example of which you can
see in the image below).
DODICI DODICI MALTO E LUPPOLO
Piazza della Vittoria, 35
% +39 0371 190 1185
www.dodicidodici.com
The bar next door to the Caffè Vistriani is
another popular hangout that offers more
than sixty types of beer and some great
sandwiches to go with them. This isn’t one
of these craft beer bars, by the way – they
just have lots of different bottled beers.
WHERE TO STAY
ALBERGO ANELLI
Via Vignati, 7
info@albergoanelli.com
www.albergoanelli.com
A small, family-run hotel handily situated
in front of public gardens right near Lodi’s
historical centre. Single, double and triple
rooms available. Perfect if you want to
make the most of the sights the town itself
has to offer.
GUESTHOUSE FLORA
Via dei Tresseni Flora, 1
% +39 339 675 9557
Serviceable hotel offering free wi-fi and
private parking on the southeastern side
of the city centre. Lodi is very manageable
on foot, so not being right in the heart of
things is certainly no disadvantage.
VILLA LAILA
Via Agello, 6
% +39 339 885 8637
info@villalaila.com
www.villalaila.com
Friendly bed & breakfast accommodation
handily close to the railway station. Choose
from three charming rooms in the villa.
CASCINA CAVRIGO
Loc. Cascina Cavrigo, civ. 35
% +39 0371 432463
% +39 342 869 1606
info@agriturismocavrigo.it
www.agriturismocavrigo.it
Enjoy the bucolic delights of a typical
Lombardy farmhouse just a couple of miles
outside Lodi with lovely rooms (including
family rooms) and a restaurant, Osteria
Perbacco, next door. From here you can
venture out into the countryside and enjoy
walks in the Parco Adda Sud.
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ften when we are talking about paintings, the surface for these liquid preparatory films. On top of this, up to
materials used to actually make the painting rarely 15 layers of gesso (chalk mixed with glue) were added; the final
get a mention. However, just like the ingredients layer had to be as smooth as ivory. This white ground was what
of a great pizza or melt-in-your mouth cannoli, the painters used as the base surface for the colour medium, which
the materials are very important for the painting’s was first the tempera paint medium and then, by the late 15th
longevity and brilliance. The painter, like the chef, needs great century, also oil paint.
ingredients from the beginning in order to properly produce his
masterpiece and bring forth his talent. EGG TEMPERA PAINTING
In the Medieval and early Renaissance period, paintings had a Egg tempera painting was the technique used in the Medieval
wooden support. Seasoned poplar wood was most commonly used period. The word tempera originates from the Latin word temperare,
in Italy; sometimes also willow or linden wood. Most of the wood meaning ‘to mix’. The colour pigment is mixed with an emulsion,
panel supports were constructed by fastening together numerous with egg yolk as the principal ingredient (sometimes the whole
panels, which were then sanded and planed. The wooden support egg was used). The colour was mixed, or ‘tempered’, with the egg.
was then coated with ‘size’, which is a mixture of gelatin or glue The tempera medium dries rapidly and it cannot be applied
made from animal skins. Often there would have been a piece of too thickly, so it never achieved the saturation of colour that would
linen cloth laid on the surface, which created a greater adhesive be possible with the oil medium in later years. However, tempera
paintings are long lasting and their colours don’t deteriorate over
Cimabue’s Maestà (tempera time as much as those mixed with oil. In the Medieval period,
on panel) uses gold to when painting was symbolic and not realistic, the thick opaque
symbolise Heaven effect from the tempera paint was ideal. The blue of the Madonna’s
mantle in the large and imposing Maestà-type paintings of the
Medieval period depicting the Virgin Mary on her throne as
Queen of Heaven was a solid mass of colour, strong and dense.
This technique works well for these paintings, which are to be
seen from afar in dark, large churches.
Medieval painting characteristically has a gold background
(a symbol of heaven) with painted images of the Holy Family
and saints, and so the tempera medium worked well in making
the distinct colours of the saints’ clothes compete with the
intense background. Narrative and volume took a back seat in
the Medieval period to conveying the greatness of Heaven and
the eternal presence of the holy characters. Domestic painting
was in the form of devotional images too, but was only for the
very wealthy and so quite rare. Most painting was made for a
religious space and was on a large scale. Tempera painting was
well suited to this environment.
With the advent of Humanism and the Renaissance in Italy
the painting market changed significantly. The rise of a new
class of wealthy merchants increased the pool of artistic patrons
and there developed a new desire to decorate the domestic
environment, not just the civic and religious domains. The
demand to show the natural world in all its complexity and detail
reflected the renewed value given to the natural world.
The development of mathematical perspective is directly
linked to this new valued perspective given to the everyday on
Earth, as had once been the case in Antiquity. Painters were now
required to understand mathematics for the rendering of space
on the flat surface and had to concentrate on depicting details
of the flora, fauna, physiognomy and architecture. Tempera
was superseded by oil painting because it provided many more
possibilities in satisfying the new needs for pictorial depiction.
Image © iStock
Elba is a popular holiday
destination with Italians
A SHINING LIGHT Emylia Hall is the author of The Thousand Lights Hotel, with the island of Elba
as its dramatic backdrop. We talked to her about inspiration and Italian food…
Tell us a little about yourself lot of writers do. I’m drawn to writing about people
I grew up in the wilds of Devon. escaping to new climes, and the freedom of travel.
After university I lived in London
for five years, working in an What made you decide to set The
advertising agency. Seeking a freer Thousand Lights Hotel in Italy, and why
existence, my husband and I spent on Elba particularly?
two winters living in the French Alps, snowboarding I visited Elba for the first time in 2003, and it felt
every day. It was there – between chalet chef and like we’d stumbled upon a true gem. If people are
shop-girl jobs – that I really began to write. We familiar with the island it’s often because of
moved to Bristol in 2007, and I began working on Napoleon (he was exiled there in 1814), and for
what would be my first novel, The Book of Summers. the novel I was interested in the idea of self-exile.
Images by Emilya Hall unless otherwise stated
It was a Richard and Judy Book Club pick, which was I have a memory of standing on a terrace, nothing
a dream start, really. before me except wooded hillside and wide water,
and it feeling like a good place in which to hide
Tell us about your novels and be happy.
All my novels are strongly influenced by place. The
Book of Summers is set in rural Hungary. A Heart Is it based on an actual hotel?
Bent Out of Shape takes place in the Swiss city of The Mille Luci isn’t based on a specific hotel; it’s a
Lausanne. For The Sea Between Us I went to dream of a good hotel, really, but it’s partly inspired
Cornwall’s rugged far west, and The Thousand by places I’ve stayed, on Elba and elsewhere. The
Read our review of Lights Hotel is set on the island of Elba. I’ve come to Gallo Nero in Sant’Andrea is a beautiful spot; every
Emylia’s new novel on page 19 realise that I have certain preoccupations. I think a morning we enjoyed breakfast under the shade of a
Elba holds a special place in my heart because the first time we went
we didn’t know anybody else who’d been; it felt like our discovery
giant palm tree (that made it into the book!). And Do you have any particular favourite Emylia’s office
for my research trip I stayed at La Primula, a dishes from Elba?
welcoming hotel in the Marciana Marina. I like schiaccia briaca, a dense, rich cake made from
local Aleatico dessert wine and dried fruit. I brought
The book is all about the ties that bind, one home with me and eked it out over my writing
known and unknown. Family is afternoons, accompanied by strong coffee. I’ve tried
fundamental to Italian life. Is this why to recreate the traditional gurguglione, a simple
you decided to set the book in Italy? ratatouille-style dish, but without vegetables kissed
I was conscious of the emotional currency of family, by Tuscan sunshine mine was a poor imitation.
and how my main characters are all outsiders in that
respect. Valentino, the Mille Luci proprietor, has Could you tell us what you love most about
always welcomed his guests as if they were family – the island of Elba? And where else have
in the uncomplicated sense of the word. When Kit, you visited in Italy?
a British travel writer, arrives, she’s forced to Elba holds a special place in my heart because the
confront some difficult truths. first time we went we didn’t know anybody else
who’d been; it felt like our discovery. For me it’s a
What form did your research take? picture-book island escape. As a student I studied in
I took a solo research trip and spent five blissful Switzerland and one Easter we roadtripped to
days scribbling in notebooks. I’m always responsive Tuscany, the Stealing Beauty soundtrack playing as
to new places, but when I’m somewhere specifically we drove over the hills to Siena, and Montepulciano;
for inspiration I’m in this wonderful, meditative state the landscape made a lasting impression. I love
where I absorb my surroundings and think only of my Rome, and could sit inside the cool of the Pantheon
novel from dawn to dusk. for hours. I was similarly transfixed by the work of
Caravaggio in the Galleria Borghese and at the
Food is quite significant in the narrative. Vatican Museums.
Did you do a lot of research in this aspect
for the novel? Do you any have plans for another trip to
I love cooking, and have a stack of Italian recipe Italy coming up?
books, so I spent time researching dishes as part of I don’t have a trip planned at the moment, which I
my process. While on Elba I had a mindblowing torta need to rectify! In the novel I imagine what autumn
della nonna, and I’m always in search of the perfect on Elba might look like – ‘the crackle and mist’ – and A lunch with a view
spaghetti ai frutti di mare. It’s a quest for life. I’d love to see it for myself.
r
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Travel Writing
The restau
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COMPETITION
To celebrate our 150th issue we launched our 2017 Travel Writing Competition
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O
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competition needs Send entries to: Writing Competition, Italia! magazine,
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writers, which is why we are Include your full name and contact details.
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If there are other
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villa is now company headquarters and offers tours of its articles for inspiration
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Michelangelo’s
Nephew
On the trail of Lionardo Buonarroti, and the family
palace he renovated in Florence
L
“ ionardo, I have received thy letter and with
it the three shirts. I am very much surprised
that ye should have sent them … they are so
coarse that there is not a farm labourer here
who would not be ashamed to wear them.”
So wrote Michelangelo from Rome in 1540 to his
favourite nephew back in Florence. Lionardo was
probably not particularly offended; he was used to
his uncle’s irascibility. He knew that Michelangelo
was engaged in an uncongenial task – painting The
Last Judgement above the Sistine Chapel’s altar for
Pope Paul III. So Lionardo continued to send small
Tuscan comforts Michelangelo’s way – cheeses, wine,
pears, and better shirts, along with family news
and an occasional request for investment advice.
Michelangelo’s responses, over time, betray not only
affection and occasional exasperation, but his hopes
that Lionardo would eventually help him enhance the
dignity of the Buonarroti name in Florence.
Michelangelo Buonarroti, sculptor, painter, poet
Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, where the teenage
– and family man. It’s true he never married, never Michelangelo lived and studied
had children, and spent much of his time apart from
his relatives; but his letters reveal a man as passionate
about family matters as about art. His intense interest Michelangelo presenting Faun sculpture to Lorenzo
in restoring his family’s fortunes and status may the Magnificent – fresco from the Pitti Palace
stem from the circumstances of his early life. You
know the stories, no doubt: born into an old but
impoverished Florentine clan; apprenticed at thirteen
to Ghirlandaio, the painter; discovered by Lorenzo
de’ Medici and educated in the Palazzo Medici,
where he studied with Neo-Platonists and created
his early sculptures The Madonna of the Stairs and
The Battle of the Centaurs.
Throughout most of his life, Michelangelo
maintained a prolific correspondence with many
people, family or otherwise. Nearly five hundred of
his letters survive. He also was one of the best poets
of his age, leaving around three hundred poems,
mostly sonnets. One of them, in its final lines, helps
explain his frequent use of the nude in his art:
Nor hath God deigned to show himself elsewhere
More clearly than in human forms sublime,
Which, since they image Him, alone I love.
Letters and poetry alike express his emotions and
preoccupations during a long and eventful career.
The early triumphs of the Pietà and the David Tomb of Julius II with Moses Statue by
made him so famous and sought-after, that forever Michelangelo in San Pietro in Vincoli, Rome
after he was torn by competing demands from
powerful patrons, frequently being pulled from
one project to another – most famously by Pope
Julius II, who abandoned his own tomb project and
set Michelangelo painting the Sistine ceiling. He
often thought people were conspiring against him,
particularly competing artists. Sometimes, no doubt,
he was right. Even paranoiacs have enemies.
Images by Patricia Gartman
Michelangelo’s model for the citizens, descended from very noble ancestors.” And, later:
façade of San Lorenzo “Lionardo, I have received the Trebbiano, forty-four flasks,
for which I thank thee. The Bishop [of Arezzo] … said
he had a good wife to give thee … once more I repeat that
I wish thee to marry, so that our family may not finish
with this generation…”
There are frequent discussions about purchasing
property, and exhortations to find a good, suitable
wife are the subject of at least a dozen more letters
to Lionardo. “As to beauty, as thou art not thyself the
most handsome youth in Florence, it skills not for thee to
trouble overmuch about it…” Nevertheless, Lionardo
held out until he found just the right young woman,
Cassandra Ridolfi; and, when he wrote to tell his
uncle how happy they were together, Michelangelo
replied: “We thank God for it, and all the more so because
such happiness is a rare thing”. And, at last, in April
1554: “Lionardo, I learn from thy letter that Cassandra
has given birth to a fine boy, and that she is going on well
… all this has afforded me the greatest happiness. May
God be praised for it!”
Over time, after his uncle died, Lionardo
renovated several family houses on Via Ghibellina
into a small palace, and Lionardo’s son, Michelangelo
Buonarroti the Younger, enlarged and completed it.
It contains many haunting mementos of the great
artist, including the Madonna of the Stairs, the Battle
of the Centaurs, and Michelangelo’s wooden model for
the façade of San Lorenzo (which was never installed).
You can visit it today at Via Ghibellina, 70. It is the
Casa Buonarroti, an honourable house in Florence.
STIRRING
STUFF
Amanda Robinson discovers authentic Italian flavours and
new friends at a hands-on cookery course in the Veneto hills
vel
Image © Stirred Tra
Handmade pasta
Image © Stirred Travel
T
otal immersion: it’s the best
Griddled local radicchio way to learn, right? Speak a
second language like a native,
pass your driving test, swim
like a fish, become a chef…
Image © iStock
It’s a tried-and-tested route to success. So,
how about an intensive, week-long culinary
course in the Veneto hills that promises
two cookery classes a day, every day, in the
company of professional chefs?
Like many Italia! readers, I adore
the food culture in Italy and I also love to
cook Italian food at home. I have enjoyed
a number of Italian culinary ‘experiences’
(yes, I do have a pasta maker and yes,
I have used it). These have been inspiring,
Apri but all-too-brief day courses, or maybe an town of Cison di Valmarino. Lovely Sarah
cots
with
bay hour or so with a patient hotel chef. I’d Roberts and her co-founder Patrick Obert
never been on a week-long course before, have years of experience in organising
so this was right up my street – and gourmet holidays, and it shows. The
slightly daunting in equal measure. As an week-long courses combine the laid-back
enthusiastic home cook, could I keep up ambiance of a sojourn in, let’s face it, a
or would I be out of my depth? rather spectacular palazzo, and the practical
focus of hands-on cookery classes with
A GOURMET EXPERIENCE professional chefs like Sophie Braimbridge
MORE TO
Cleaning the Rialto Mar
ket clams
EXPLORE…
Just an hour’s drive from Venice and a
mere 35 miles from Treviso, Venice’s
sophisticated little sister, the small but
perfectly formed village of Cison di
Valmarino is one of the most beautiful
villages in Italy (I Borghi più belli d’Italia), PALAZZO LIVING
and only one of six in Veneto. Villa Speeding along the broad-laned motorway
Casagrande sits at its heart in the prettiest from Venice’s Marco Polo airport, it’s a
of village squares with the steeply wooded remarkably short time before we are out of
foothills of Dolomites their dramatic the flat low-lying hinterland around the
backdrop. The imposing CastelBrando Venetian Lagoon and into the foothills of
(once a fortress, now a hotel, museum and the Veneto Dolomites. The road climbs
theatre) stands sentry in the hills above more sharply as we pull into the tidy town
the village. Guided tours of the castle are square of Cison di Valmarino, sweeping
available: take the funicular railway from up to the steps of Villa Casagrande. The
the village, or just follow the road. Hike red-shuttered palazzo that stands before
the trails to the old water mills just us is our home for the week: graciously
outside the village, where you can see the proportioned ensuite rooms filled with
signs of the village’s industrial past, or an elegant mix of contemporary art, Ling
uine
cycle along dedicated paths through the frescoes and antique furniture, as well alle
vong
peaceful local countryside. You can find as landscaped lawns outside, complete ole
more information at www.cison.it with a very tempting 30-foot swimming
Cison di Valmarino is in the Prosecco pool. So far, so heavenly… But the serious
region, and Italy’s very first ‘Wine Road’ culinary action takes place in an impressive
the Strada del prosecco e vini dei colli, is state-of-the-art kitchen, all stainless steel
nearby, between Valdobbiadene and and batterie de cuisine, overlooking the
Conegliano. Tours run throughout the year, spectacular rose garden.
with visits to ancient towns like
Refrontolo with its water mill and Follina KITCHEN CREW
and its 13th-century abbey, as well as Two couples (one mother and daughter,
the opportunity to visit local wineries. one husband and wife) and four solo guests
www.coneglianovaldobbiadene.it made up our numbers, but we were a team
after the first morning’s practical pasta
Local chee
se at Perenzin
Cison di Valmarino is
cradled in the Dolomites
occa
Rabbit saltimb
50 ITALIA! August 2017
making class. Talk about total immersion! matching and hands-on experience,
By the time we sat down at the long the only additional expenses are flights
dining table in the sun-filled portico to eat and local goodies like peppery olive oil
our way through fresh lemon and thyme and white polenta – if you have enough
tagliatelle, pumpkin ravioli heady with baggage allowance that is. You’ll come
nutmeg, and spinach and ricotta rotolo (a away with a neat file of all the recipes
giant steamed pasta roll, so delicious) that and an enlightened understanding of
we made ourselves, the ice was well and the practicalities and ethos of authentic
truly broken and we were friends. regional Italian cucina.
And that set the tone for our busy I’d go again, that’s for sure – in fact,
Fres
coed week: whatever we did, from visiting for one of our kitchen brigade, this was her
wall Rialto Market in Venice for supper second visit – she visited last autumn, and
s
ingredients and a private boat out to coming back this spring she was hoping
the island of Mazzorbo in the lagoon, to for a different experience. With seasonality
leisurely strolls round the town, cocktails at the heart of everything Stirred Travel
on the terrace (anyone for a sgroppino?) delivers, she wasn’t disappointed.
or simply peeling mountains of onions
around the large table, it felt like a relaxed
houseparty, with cooking and eating at its INFORMATION
very heart. We covered so much culinary
➤ Stirred Travel cookery courses run from March
ground: from preparing spiky artichokes to to June and then through September and October
deep frying battered sage leaves (thank you, (see their website for precise details). The
A hearty br Rachel), to removing ink sacs from fresh six-night stay costs £2,695, which covers your
eakfast se
for a long
day in the
ts you up squid (messy), making panna cotta (boozy), accommodation, tuition, food, wine, trips, tours
kitchen! quenelling gnudi and so much more. and tastings (unless otherwise stated), lunch in
You couldn’t fail to be inspired by Venice, dinner at a local restaurant, transfers to
and from Venice airport at recommended pick-up
the enthusiasm and downright passion of and departure times. Private transfers can be
our talented chefs and their willingness arranged at an additional cost. The price does not
to share knowledge (including the ins include flights.
and outs of whist – who knew, Jeremy?). For more information, www.stirredtravel.com
With so much good food, perfect wine
ol after
A dip in the po
of the kitchen
the heat
d Travel
Image © Stirre
CookITALIA!
Trullo Delicious
How to make Tuscan pici, plus
18 pages a lunch party menu
of fabulouds
p54
Italian foo
and drink In Season
What to eat and cook in August,
plus four dishes to make at home
p58
Pasta Secrets
The secret to perfect pasta sauce
with Laura Santtini
p66
BuyITALIA!
A selection of jarred pesto
p64
DrinkITALIA!
Six of the best wines for summer
p 69
Image © iStock
TRULLODelicious
Make pici pasta from Tuscany, plus three delicious dishes for an elegant
summer lunch party from Trullo: The Cookbook by Tim Siadatan
• 375g white bread flour 3 With a rolling pin, shape it into a both palms of your hands, applying
• 180ml water rectangle about 2cm thick, wrap in cling pressure evenly and pushing out, until
• 1 tbsp olive oil film and leave to rest for at least 30 you have a noodle the same thickness as
• a pinch of fine sea salt minutes somewhere cool. a biro. Basically, you’re making wriggly
4 To make the pici, cut the dough into 15g worms. Repeat the process until all the
1 Add the flour to a bowl and make a well. strips (weigh one and use as a guide) and dough is used up.
Mix the water, oil and salt and pour into keep covered with a damp tea towel. 6 Cook straight away, or, if making in
the well. Start incorporating the flour into 5 On a dry, clean work surface – stainless advance, store lengthways on a heavily
the water until a dough starts to form. steel or wood, you don’t want something floured tray (they stick together
2 Take the dough out, transfer to a table too smooth as a little bit of friction helps otherwise) covered with cling film and
and knead it until it becomes smooth. – start rolling the strip outwards, with refrigerate for no more than 24 hours.
• 1 batch of pici dough (see recipe) See image over the page a wire rack or using metal tongs – keep rolling
• 160g unsalted butter • 2 red peppers them around until they’re blackened all over. Put
• 4 tbsp freshly ground black pepper • extra-virgin olive oil in a bowl and cover tightly with cling film: it
• 100g parmesan, finely grated • 6 Roseval red-skinned potatoes, skin on and will inflate like a hot-air balloon. Wait until it
• 1 tsp lemon juice sliced, 2cm thick deflates, then peel the peppers while they’re
• 3 whole salted anchovies, washed and still warm (this makes it much easier). Discard
1 In a large saucepan, bring water up to the boil deboned (or use 6 good quality fillets) the seeds and thinly slice. Put a glug of olive oil
and season with salt to resemble mild sea water. • 24 green or purple olives, de-stoned in a small saucepan and cook the peppers for 20
Drop the pici in water and cook for 5-6 minutes. • ½ red chilli, deseeded and finely sliced minutes on a low to medium heat.
Meanwhile, add the butter, black pepper and a • 4 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed 2 Line a large, high-sided roasting tray with a thin
splash of pici water to a saucepan on a medium • 3 sprigs of rosemary, leaves picked layer of olive oil, then with parchment paper
heat and then turn down to a low heat until they • 200ml chicken or vegetable stock (the olive oil makes it stick down). Add all the
emulsify (melt into each other). • 2 tbsp Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar ingredients (including the peppers), except the
2 When the pici are cooked, remove from the water • 40g unsalted butter, cubed butter. Season with a big glug of olive oil, salt
and add to the saucepan with the butter and • salt and pepper and a good smack of pepper, mix together and
pepper. Keep the pasta water. Add the parmesan roast in the oven for 35 minutes, stirring from
– but do not stir. Leave the parmesan to sit and 1 Preheat the oven to 190˚C/Gas Mark 5. Blister time to time.
melt from the residual heat of the pan – this the peppers, ideally on a charcoal grill to get a 3 Add the butter and roast for a further 5 minutes.
prevents it from becoming chewy little cheesy smoky flavour, but if not, over a naked flame on The potatoes should have absorbed most of the
balls. Once the parmesan has melted, stir the pici liquid but have a shimmering viscous sauce.
and sauce together to incorporate. Season with
salt and serve immediately.
IN SEASON
August
Early summer vegetables such as beans and courgettes
are joined this month by a variety of fruits and fish as
the year’s main harvest really begins come in…
Images and recipes © Mario Matassa
COURGETTES ZUCCHINI
Grown all over Italy, the courgette boasts culinary versatility and can be used
in a variety of delicious dishes; grated and eaten raw in salads, or fried, grilled
and served as a side vegetable sprinkled with melted butter, salt, extra-virgin
olive oil or lemon juice. Most distinctively, the courgette also develops edible
flowers, which are popular stuffed with mixtures of spinach, ricotta and
parmesan cheese.
AUBERGINES MELANZANE
The aubergine, with its distinctive purple exterior, is a cherished vegetable
in Italian cuisine. Grown in southern Italy during the summer, aubergines
particularly appear in Sicilian recipes such as parmigiana di melanzane, or are
dipped in flour and egg, then fried. Perhaps the most unusual recipe originates
from the Amalfi coast – an ‘aubergine sandwich’, which sees aubergine slices
coated with nuts and candied peel, then dipped in chocolate.
IN SEASON
Recipes
PESTO
Stirred into pasta or spread on crostini, we just can’t
get enough of this Italian store cupboard staple
O
ne of Italy’s most popular sauces, originating in Genoa,
a traditional pesto genovese consists of crushed garlic, olive
oil, pine nuts, fresh basil leaves, and a mix of Parmigiano
Reggiano and pecorino cheeses, blended together with a
pestle and mortar. We have two traditional recipes, plus one from Sicily
which uses fresh pistachios instead of pine nuts, and a vegan option. 2
1 3
EDITOR’S CHOICE
GALLINURA PESTO ALLA GENOVESE
From Bellavita www.bellavitashop.co.uk
Price £3.50 for 130g
A wonderfully fresh green in colour, this was the team’s
favourite. With a rustic ‘homemade’ appearance, it was
packed with Genovese basil DOP which added to the
authentic pungency of a traditional pesto. It had a light
texture, and melted into hot pasta like a dream, without
losing any of its flavour. The best quality ingredients come
together to create a beautiful little pot of flavour.
DITOR
AUG
LIA! E
’S CHO
2017
ICE ITA
Image © iStock
Laura’s Pasta Secrets
Laura Santtini reveals the secret to mantecare – how Italians create the authentic sauce for pasta
T
he act of skilfully combining Unlike the method for making a There are two ways Italians combine pasta
cooked pasta with a sauce is risotto, where only cold, unsalted butter with sauce:
something we Italians call and parmigiano are used for the mantecatura,
mantecare or the mantecatura. in pasta, olive oil can also be used instead HOT PASTA INTO HOT SAUCE
This literally means to of butter. The use of olive oil is paramount Scratch-cook a quick olive oil or butter
emulsify the starch from the pasta with for recipes like spaghetti vongole, where the based sauce in a sauté pan and tip in the
the oil or butter in the sauce to make olive oil and starchy water mixed with the hot, drained pasta. Add a splash of retained
that creamy loose pasta finish that is so garlic, clam juice and white wine helps cooking water, if necessary extra butter,
compelling. It is not an easy thing to do, to create that compelling and super-tasty and toss with gusto and serve. Try Laura’s
but once you have it cracked you will slippery sauce. spaghetti vongole recipe over the page.
never look back. That is why in almost
every recipe method I repeat the same WHAT YOU WILL NEED HOT PASTA INTO COLD SAUCE
words, in the hope that they will become Place the ingredients in a serving bowl,
a new mantra in your kitchen: ‘Drain the ➤ 1 large sauté pan – wide, deep, heavy- using raw, crushed garlic, a good glug
bottomed, long-handled and preferably non-
pasta, but keep a cup of the cooking water. of olive oil and other ingredients of your
stick
Tip the hot drained pasta into the pan choice, and tip the hot, drained pasta
containing the sauce, adding a splash of the ➤ a cup of salty, starchy pasta cooking water directly into the bowl to unlock the
(though you might not need all of this)
retained cooking water (about 60ml) and aromatics. Toss with gusto and serve. Try
toss with gusto over a high heat until the ➤ a glug of olive oil or a good knob of fridge- Laura’s Lemon, Mint and Caper recipe on
cold unsalted butter
pasta looks creamy and well coated.’ the facing page.
• 200g dried pasta or 160g fresh pasta 2 When the salted water is at a rolling boil, add the
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra if needed pasta and cook according to the instructions on
• a handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped the packet.
• the grated zest and freshly squeezed juice 3 Drain the pasta but keep a cup of the cooking
of ½ lemon water. Tip the hot, drained pasta into the lemon
• 1 tbsp capers, drained and rinsed caper mixture, and toss with gusto until the pasta
• 2 tbsp pine nuts, preferably toasted looks creamy and well coated. If the pasta looks
• 2 tbsp finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano too dry, you can add a little more olive oil or a tiny
• salt and freshly ground black pepper splash of the retained pasta water and mix well.
• toasted, flaked almonds, to serve 4 Season to taste and serve immediately with the
grated Parmigiano Reggiano and freshly ground
1 Put a large pan of salted water on to boil for the black pepper. Top with toasted, flaked almonds if
pasta (use about 10g sea salt per litre of water). you like.
Meanwhile, place the olive oil, chopped mint,
lemon zest and juice, capers and pine nuts in the
bottom of your serving bowl.
Image © iStock
SIX WINES
FOR SUMMER
From crisply chilled whites and a blushing rosato for al fresco
feasts to raucous reds to quaff at your barbecue – here’s our
pick of Italian wines to enjoy this summer
S ummer’s here! So get out the barbecue, dust off the picnic hamper,
unfurl that parasol and let the good times roll… Maybe the reality of
this is not quite as we imagined it in our heads (in the UK at least), but
there’s no doubt that warmer temperatures and long, mellow evenings lend
themselves to impromptu get-togethers and lazy lunches – whether ultimately
outside or round the dining room table. And with the food comes the wine,
so we asked a few of our favourite Italian wine experts to recommend their
O
HE MO
EatITALIA!
CERASUOLO DI CLASSICO 2016 ROSATO,
VITTORIA 2014 From Noel Young Wines TREDIBERRI,
From Great Western Wine www.nywines.co.uk PIEDMONT
www.greatwesternwine.co.uk Price £14.99 From Berry Bros & Rudd
Price £15.50 Soave Classico from Pieropan www.bbr.com
From Planeta, the wonderfully is celebrating its 50th Price £10.95
consistent Sicilian producer,
comes Cerasuolo di Vittoria,
the only DOCG in Sicily.
anniversary and, grown in the
cool conditions of Veneto,
there is nothing cloying or
The Trediberri cantina in La
Morra, deep in Le Langhe, the
heart of Barolo country, only
CookITALIA!
Nero d’Avola and Frappato sticky about this white wine. started production in 2012.
grapes combine to produce It has a flinty minerality and Deep salmon pink in colour, The Mediterranean
a gem of a summer red.
Light ruby tones in the
a restrained character that
makes it so perfect for a
this is summer in a glass. A
gorgeous strawberry aroma Table
glass are complemented by summer party. 85% Garganega leads to more of the same A feast of autumn flavours
a fruity bouquet. Think ripe 15% Trebbiano di Soave (also on the palate, enlivened by
strawberries, slightly tart known as Verdicchio in Le the tang of pink grapefruit.
Too Good to Waste
Image © Too Good To Waste by Victoria Glass © Victoria Glass / Nourish Books 2017, commissioned photography by Danielle Wood. Contents may be subject to change
raspberries with cherry notes, Marche), fragrant with ripe Fresh and red-fruit laden, the
sweet and sour. Light tannins orchard fruit, zingy citrus and acidity comes up to meet you Italian dishes to make the most
and a good finish to round a hint of bitter almond, it is along with soft tannins to
it off make this a very easy- balanced by a fresh, clean add some body. Get some in of your delicious ingredients
drinking summer party wine. acidity and a finish that lasts. for the rest of the summer.
In season for September
What’s best to eat this month,
plus seasonal recipes
BuyITALIA!
Speedy and tasty filled pasta
DrinkITALIA!
A hint of pink: Italian rosé wines
ITALIA!
21 pages
of expert Homes ITALIA!
advice and Homes in Veneto
guidance This elegant northern region has
a lot to offer the property buyer
p74
Property Showcase
Our round-up of hot properties
p 84
Welcome to Le Marche
An expert guide to this
beautiful region of Italy
p 85
Property Spotlight
Homes to buy in Le Marche
p 93
Ask ITALIA!
Our experts answer your
burning questions
p94
Image © iStock
Homes in
Veneto
It’s famous for Venice and other captivating cities, but this prosperous northern
region has rural delights aplenty. Buyers seeking good investment or great
value for money should take a closer look, says Fleur Kinson
S
ophisticated, romantic and beautiful – these The region’s cities, meanwhile, are small and gem-
words might or might not describe your like. Famous places like Padua, Vicenza, Verona and
partner, but they certainly describe Veneto, Treviso are packed with history and charm, but so are
a lovely, affluent region tucked into Italy’s Veneto’s many small towns and hamlets. Culturally,
northeastern corner. Pronounced ‘VE-ne-to,’ Veneto is a well-run and orderly sort of place, with an
with stress on the first syllable, the name might not evident taste for the fine things in life and a flair for
be terribly well-known to you, but you’re sure to be good living. The region’s five million inhabitants are
familiar with some of the region’s contents: Venice, a creative and hard-working bunch, but like Italians
Verona, eastern Lake Garda, the villas of architect everywhere they enjoy a very healthy work-life balance
Andrea Palladio and the glitzy Dolomite ski resort of and take time to stop and smell the roses. What’s the
Cortina d’Ampezzo. Spaced in between these famous point of affluence if you have no leisure to enjoy time
assets, Veneto also offers countless with friends, slowly savour fine
charming small towns and glorious Venice is one of the meals, attend the opera or sit at cafés
rural spaces to discover – places that world’s most important and watch the world go by?
arguably should be better known. tourist destinations Tourism is a significant part
Visually, Veneto is often of Veneto’s economy, as you might
characterised by elegant drama imagine. Verona, Lake Garda and
and dreamy enchantment. The the Dolomites are perennially
architecture is highly decorated, the popular destinations, while Venice
countryside is soft and pretty, and alone receives a whopping 13 million
there’s shimmery water everywhere visitors every year. This is a popular –
– except in the far north where the and populous – section of Italy, with
fantastical golden needles of the much for the visitor and resident
Dolomites pierce the sky. Like many to see and do. Historically situated
Images © iStock unless otherwise stated
very good value for money and you in Veneto. You might pay as little
might be surprised by what small as €120,000 for a fully restored
prices you can find if you look farmhouse in the hills less than
Castello, in the heart of Venice
around and away from the very an hour from one of the region’s
best-known locales. many handsome little cities.
L
watery city is to buy on one of its
smaller satellite islands – places such inda Little from Sydney, Australia, bought a two-bedroom
as Burano, where property is much apartment in the San Polo district of Venice in early 2016. It sits
more affordable. three floors up in a canalside townhouse, in a quiet area close to all
the city’s major sights, and Linda gets to enjoy watching gondolas
ALTERNATIVES TO VENICE passing beneath her balcony. She and her partner spend at least a month in
If the costliness of Venice puts the property every year, and offer holiday rentals the rest of the time.
you off, but you still like the What drew her to Venice? “It’s like nowhere else in the world,” Linda
idea of a city apartment with safe says. “It’s unique and full of soul. The city’s age and wear are, to me, like
re-sale value and strong holiday smile-lines and wisdom-wrinkles on a beautiful, knowing matriarch. Every
rental prospects, consider Verona piece of broken plaster, every leaning door and tilting floor reminds me
– a magnet for Shakespeare fans, how much I love her soul!” Finding the right property in the city, however,
romantics and opera lovers. wasn’t easy. “It took a good three years looking at dozens of properties each
Apartments in Verona are almost time we went to Venice before finding the right one. Eventually, it was
half the price of similar properties Andrea Redivo Zaglia of Properties in Italy who found the perfect place for
in Venice, and rentals prospects are us. He guided us through the whole purchasing process, had great contacts
very good for about seven months a in the real estate industry, and helped us out in numerous ways.”
year. Or you could try under-rated The apartment, Ca’ Fortuna, needed a bit of a makeover. “We re-
Padua, which is within easy rail painted, re-arranged the kitchen, bought all new beds and furniture as well
as antiques from a wonderful local craftsman, Bruno Barbon. He and his
elderly friends even carried a glass-topped dining table up three floors to
the apartment! The décor is quite glamorous with a mixture of antiques
and sleek modern furniture. I was excited to find a beautiful Swarovski
chandelier for the dining area, and love the sparkle it adds. One of the
biggest issues in Venice, especially on upper storeys, is the lack of water
pressure, so we installed a new pump, water tank and water heater. It’s
illegal to install a pump without also installing a tank as otherwise your
pump sucks all the water from other apartments. Venice has its own set
of issues when it comes to the practical side of anything. Everything has
to arrive by boat, for example. And gardening on the balcony is quite an
experience in itself!”
The city’s strong holiday rentals market was a factor in Linda’s decision
to buy, and she’s been very pleased to discover that she can fill as much of
her annual rental calendar as she likes. “It would have been much cheaper
to buy in a small town or city elsewhere in Italy,” she says, “but the returns
would not be anywhere near as good as they are in thriving Venice. Rental
returns had to cover the holding costs in every way to make this viable. It’s
been a pleasant surprise that a property so newly on the rental market has
proven so popular.” www.airbnb.com.au/rooms/11825264
1
3
2
MONTAGNANA, VENETO
Type of property Townhouse derived from medieval tower
Number of bedrooms Flexible
Price €110,000
Location Montagnana, Province of Padua
Contact Properties in Italy ☎ +39 349 4520481
info@propertiesinitaly.net www.propertiesinitaly.net Lido di Jesolo has a beach 15km long
ITALIA!
WILD ITALIA!
Italy’s top 10 wild animals and the best places
in the country to see them in their natural habitat…
PLUS What’s in season for September, rosé wines, fresh filled pasta on test,
news, letters, our writing competition, what’s on and more…
Want to guarantee your next issue of Italia! and save money? Then turn to page 34 to subscribe
Property Showcase
¤250,000-¤500,000 ¤250,000-¤500,000
CASA MAREMONTI CASA GODETEVI
The say the Marche landscape is unique as it enjoys the Mare e Monti, San Ginesio, Macerata. It’s easy to see yourself enjoying la dolce vita at
meaning the sea and the mountains. Casa Maremonti is the rare house Casa Godetevi – it’s spacious, open, sunny, with terrific views, a welcoming
that has that view! Already structurally restored, the house awaits your pool and a pool house. The house has an open plan ground floor and 3 big
ideas on how to finish it. Great size, open plan architecture, 4 bedrooms, bedrooms upstairs. This is a 215 sqm house in terrific shape, just 2km to
and amazing views. It’s a beautifully positioned, well-built house with sea prized town, with easy access and an easily managed plot – all for a hard-
views and mountain views, just 5 minutes from the town of Montecosaro, to-believe price of €399,000.
just 8 minutes to the beach and 10 minutes to the city of Civitanova Price €399,000
Marche and the A14 autostrada. Contact Kevin Gibney
Price €269,000 Contact Kevin Gibney % +39 347 538 6668 % +39 347 538 6668
info@propertyforsalemarche.com info@propertyforsalemarche.com
www.propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com
¤250,000-¤500,000 ¤100,000-¤150,000
PENTHOUSE ECO FONTANA MARINA RESIDENCE
In the heart of the Marche, at Porto Potenza Picena, a few kilometres Residential complex in the Marche hills near sandy beaches and
from Ancona/Falconara airport, is this beautiful 3-bedroom penthouse, Campofilone. Complex still under development with a few units finished
open on three sides, with a very spacious living room and open kitchen, and lived in. The aim is to offer ample opportunities for personalised
master bedroom with bathroom and wardrobe, 2 single bedrooms, choices; detached or semi-detached, with or without a pool, garden etc.
bathroom, hallway, utility room, balcony and roof garden. A prestigious The apartments are built according to modern ideas on energy output and
apartment, steps from the sea, with private garden. Cutting-edge energy- comfort. All houses have a view over the Adriatic Sea. Nearby services
saving technologies and respect for nature makes the entire project, and facilities: recreational park, aquatic park, shopping centre etc. The
of which this penthouse is a part, a masterpiece of Marche real estate, Autostrada A14 is 1km away. For €135,000, a 53 sqm apartment with 45
offering quality of life in one of the most beautiful regions of Italy. sqm terrace; €150,000 adds a 42 sqm basement garage.
Price €355,000 Contact % +39 339 101 9042 Price €135,000 Contact % +39 339 101 9042
info@marchepropertynet.com www.marchepropertynet.com info@marchepropertynet.com www.marchepropertynet.com
w w w. c o m u n e . c i n g o l i . m c . i t
Pagina ITALIA.indd 1
IT153.WelcomeToLeMarche.sg6.indd 86 21/02/15 17:24pm
28/06/2017 12:39
LE MARCHE
graphic: ilarimarco@gmail.com
L
being the Arco d’Augusto, a 1st-
e Marche is as steeped The region was then to suffer a century Roman arch.
in history as any other prolonged period of relentless
region of Italy, but with warfare as the power struggles of the RENAISSANCE TREASURES
the inhabitants enjoying Papacy, the Holy Roman Emperors Travelling west away from the
a relaxed attitude and and the ruling families, such as the coast you will find the fairytale
way of life, the region’s tourist trail Borgias, marked the landscape. city of Urbino, one of the most
is less stressful than the usual routes These conflicts continued until beautiful hilltop towns in Italy. Its
through Italy’s thronging museums, the 19th century when, in 1860, heyday was from the 12th century
churches and castles. after a decisive battle against the and through the golden age of the
There is evidence of settlers Papacy, Le Marche was absorbed by a Renaissance under the Montefeltro
here from as far back as 6000 BC, newly unified Italy. The result of all family. Many splendid art treasures
while the Piceni, one of Italy’s these centuries of discord and diverse can be found in the city’s churches
earliest tribes, are the first recorded occupations is a land that reveals a and museums. Among its most
rich vein of remains, festivals and impressive buildings is the Palazzo
The sights and marvels of traditions, and some of the greatest
treasures of the Renaissance.
Ducale, with its towering turrets,
a perfect example of an early
Le Marche are an experience A VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY The stunning Sibillini
www.propertyforsalemarche.com + 39.347.5386668
P.IVA 01534470438
Sale price
€385,000
Taxi Inglese
Available to hire with driver
in the Macerata region of Le Marche
For weddings, birthdays,
anniversaries & parties
Add a hint
of England to
your romantic
For information please contact Manuele Paolucci
Email: manuele.pao@gmail.com
Facebook: Taxi inglese cingoli
Italian wedding
E
njoying music is an Born into a musical family in
10% OFF
Enter “Italia!”
at the
checkout
Spotlight on...
LE MARCHE
Sponsored by
KEVIN GIBNEY
MANAGING DIRECTOR / TITOLARE
PROPERTYFORSALEMARCHE.COM
I love Le Marche. In 2007, I moved my family here from
New York, including two small children, and we’ve enjoyed
a terrific lifestyle ever since. I started PropertyForSaleMarche.com after a
career in marketing that included corporate marketing jobs, a stint in venture CASA AZZURRA
capital and 12 years as CEO of a sports marketing firm I founded and ran, Located in Regnano (MC). Well-built, classic country house with
based in NYC. Given that career background, we run a seriously professional 4 bedrooms (2 en suite), 2 outbuildings, big plot. Delivers great
business here, much more in tune with our clients’ life and work experiences value for the money at the new €269,000 asking price. Great views.
than the typical agent. Our site is focused on QUALITY, not quantity. We Private. Structural engineer’s survey completed. Olive grove and
have vast experience finding clients the right vineyard, producing ample olive oil and wine. Easy access, ideal
home, and if that doesn’t happen we have the location. All paperwork in order, ready to go. You can’t beat Casa
BEST team in Le Marche for custom restorations. Azzurra for its price and value.
Profit from our personal and professional Price €269,000 Contact Kevin Gibney ☎ +39 347 538 6668
knowledge and our network of legal, technical and info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com
architectural pros. Contact me directly: kgibney@ Kevin Gibney
propertyforsalemarche.com ☎ +39 347 538 6668 Property For Sale Marche
¤269,000 www.propertyforsalemarche.com
LA TENUTA IL ROCCOLO
La Tenuta is composed of three private residences, each with its own Located in Amandola (FM). Historic, 2-bedroom cottage-sized house
plot but sharing a pool and olive grove. Each residence is unique and that began life as the hunting lodge of an aristocratic family over a
the restorations have been done with attention to rustic authenticity. century ago. Old stone floors, remnants of an original fresco, original
Each property has two (or more) terraces. Nearby towns are Sarnano, slatted windows – all unique, from a time long gone. 2.5 hectare plot.
Sant’Angelo and Gualdo. All shared maintenance details and It’s the ideal place for someone “on the hunt” for a simple, unique and
responsibilities are clearly stated in an owner’s agreement. inexpensive property in Le Marche.
Price €199,000-€210,000 depending on which property Price €159,000
Contact Kevin Gibney ☎ +39 347 538 6668 Contact Kevin Gibney ☎ +39 347 538 6668
info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com info@propertyforsalemarche.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com
QUESTIONS
& ANSWERS
Our experts are here to help with all your questions about Italy.
This month, alternative Sorrento, travelling around the south, Long Travel invite
you to Canne Bianche
fractional ownership in Le Marche, and EU driving licences…
ALTERNATIVE SORRENTO Naples, Capri and the Amalfi Coast, but in case you want something to flick through
Gilly Lightfoot, by email sightseeing and the staff will pick the fruit TRAVELLING IN THE SOUTH
make your way east to Puglia, home to some advice you could share with us from your wide
A Driving licences issued by EU
member countries can be used
in Italy. A licence issued by an EU
of Italy’s best food and wine, historic towns experience in this area, we would be grateful. country is valid in Italy as long as it
such as Lecce, Ostuni and Gallipoli, and Jennie Dobson, Winchester is still valid in the country in which
the longest coastline on mainland Italy. It’s it was originally issued, the holder is
from here that you can visit the famous Itria
Valley, home to the unique and beautiful
trulli houses, as well as traditional towns like
A Thank you for your question regarding
fractional ownership. Appassionata is a
family business created in 2007, for people
over the driving age for the type of
vehicle, and it has not been suspended
or revoked in the country of issue.
Alberobello, Cisternino and Martina Franca. who want a holiday home in Italy, but don’t However, if you plan to reside in
Continuing your stay in Puglia, treat yourself want the expense, worry and hassle of owning Italy for long periods you are advised
to a few nights at a beautiful beach hotel a home outright. We have created a business to convert your driving licence into an
such as Canne Bianche, and unwind in the where owners can buy a five-week share Italian one as this greatly simplifies the
ambience of local coastal towns like Monopoli in a luxury property. We do all the work, renewal procedures and replacement
and Polignano. including wading through the red tape! The formalities if it is lost or stolen. If your
Paul Bright, Italian Travel Expert at Long Travel buying process is very straightforward, just driving licence does not have an expiry
like buying a share in a company. date, the conversion should be arranged
FRACTIONAL OWNERSHIP The property deeds are owned by a within two years after taking residency.
the purchase, they fill in the necessary forms. be converted. This depends EMAIL
Fourteen days later they are the very proud on bilateral agreements US WITH YOUR
QUESTIONS:
owners of their new Italian home. between Italy and the italia@anthem-
For more information or to book your country in question. publishing.com,
or write to us at our
discovery trip www.appassionata.com. Laura Protti, LEP Law usual address on
Dawn Cavanagh-Hobbs, Appassionata page 7.
MARKETPLACE
HOLIDAYS PROPERTY
N
Pretty, three bedroom, €220 OW
stone built cottage with pool ,000
Overlooking the Umbrian village of Morra
Lovely location – set on a hill, overlooking the valley from
most rooms, in Città di Castello
Garden, terrace, bedroom terrace, exposed beams, open fireplace, 2,500
MARKETPLACE
MARKETPLACE
square metres of fenced surrounding land with private, gated access
Train station 30 mins drive – Castiglion Fiorentino
Telephone +39 0758553502 /+39 3351215263
www.ledimoreitaly.com • info@ledimoreitaly.com
Australian Agency:
Lloyd Robinson of RT Edgar • lrobinson@rtedgar.com.au
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you get to the platform or they’re only to Pisa but also to Florence.
●
10
more expensive). Terminal B is for There’s a shuttle train into Pisa, from
international flights; Terminal C for where you can get a train to Florence ● 9
transatlantic. The Terravision shuttle after you’ve seen the Leaning Tower.
bus is cheaper but takes twice as long. But, if you’re dead intent on heading
Ciampino, which in the days of straight for the Renaissance City, why ●
12
Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn was not just jump on a bus? Buy tickets
the city’s main airport, also has regular at the Information Desk (leave the
flights to the UK and is closer to town, arrivals hall and turn right).
though there is no rail link. There is Alternatively, you can (for a price)
talk of a third airport. fly straight into Florence from London ●
8
Insider’s STOP 01
ROME THE
COLOSSEUM
INFORMATION
➤ Open every day from 08:30 except 25
December and 1 January. Closing times vary
between 16:30 and 19:15 according to the time
of year. Last entry 1 hour before closing. €12
Image © iStock
Perhaps the most iconic of all the full price, €7.50 EU citizens aged 18-25 years,
tourist destinations in Rome, the free for EU minors. Free for everybody on the
Colosseum looms large at the heart first Sunday of the month. www.il-colosseo.it
of what was once the city centre