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What is loom?

Loom is a very necessary part for weaving. Loom is a machine or device which is used for
producing woven fabric. Loom are driven by two ways. These are manual system and automatic
system.

Different Motion of the Loom


Types of Loom Motion:
Loom has three types of motion:

Primary motion
Secondary motion
Tertiary motion
Primary motion
Primary motion has three types. They are:

A. Shedding:- The process of making shed is called shedding.it is the process of separating the
warp yarn into two layers to form a tunnel which is called shed, is known as shedding.

B. Picking:- The method of passing the weft threads traversely through warp yarn is called
picking.

C. Beat up:- The process in which yarns are sent to the fell of the cloth is called beat up.

Secondary motion
Secondary motion is in two types:
Take up motion
Let off motion
Tertiary motion
Tertiary motion is not necessary for fabric production. The tertiary motions are:
Warp stop motion.
Weft stop motion.
Reed stop motion.
Loom motion controls the fabric production.by using these motion weavers can produce
different types of fabrics.

Chronological development of loom


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The today’s modern loom has not yet come automatically. After passing a long period
modern loom has been invented. The process of developing the loom is still running.
8000 years back, linen fabric is found at Egypt. 4000 years back, silk fabric produce in
China.
Loom development:
Up right Vertical Frame
Shed Stick Weaving
Primitive Loom
(a) Pit Loom
(b) Through Shuttle Loom.
Fly Shuttle Loom-This was invented by the Jhon K. Burrey
Semi Automatic Loom.
(a) Chittarangon Loom
(b) Hattersely Loom.
Ordinary Power Loom
Automatic Power Loom- it was invented in 1890 to 1899 Christ.
Shuttle-less or Modern Loom-Shuttle less or Modern Loom was invented in 1960.
(a) Projectile
(b) Rapier
(c) Air jet
(d) Water jet
(e) Multiphase

Basic Parts of a Loom:


Clothes are second basic need of human being.people make clothes by using a method which
interlacing the different types of yarns together. This process is popularly known as 'weaving'.
Textile weaving is as old as our civilization.weaving is practised all over the globe.looms are the
most well known word to the people in terms of weaving. The main function of the loom is to
weave clothes. For enhancing the working capabilities, the size and shape of the looms may
vary but the basic structure of all types of looms are same. There are many types of looms are
available in this era. Some of them are:
Back strap loom
Warp weighted loom
Draw loom
Handloom
Haute lisse loom
Power loom etc.
All these looms have the same basic structures.from this article we will know about the main
parts of loom elaborately.

Basic Parts of a Loom


1. Heald:
It is also called Heddle. It holds the warp yarns in a place.It also helps in shed formation. It is
used for determining the warp thread density in a fabric.

2. Heald shaft:
It is also known as harness.the wood or metal frame that holds the heddles in a certain position
in the loom is called harness. Number of harness available in loom usually more than one.

3.Shuttle:
This is used for the interlacement of the warp & weft yarns.

4. Shuttle box:
It is a box which is used to retain the shuttle in the picking motion.

5. Picker:
It is placed in the shuttle box. It may be formed by leather or other metals.

6. Beams:
It is a cylindrical body in which the multiple warp ends is used in such way that permits the
removal of yarns as a warp sheet.

7. Front rest:
It is a fixed roller placed in front of the loom.it is situated above the cloth beam & work as a
guide for the cloth to wind.

8. Lease rods:
The division of warp yarns into one & one, two & two etc is termed as lease. The two rods
passed between the two divisions of warp yarns.those are called lease rods.

9. Slay:
Slay contains the reed.

10. Reed:
It is generally comb which is used to separate yarns.it also beats up the yarns in weaving
process.

11. Treadle:
The treadle is a paddle or lever placed under a loom.here a thread is connected with the help of
cords.

12. Temple:
It is the roller device on a loom that hold the cloth at a proper width.

Introduction:
In the textile sector present time is the time of modern & new era. Man has invented a lot of
modernloom using with modern weft insertion system. So the comparison of conventional
loom & modern loom indicates how much the conventional loom is modified within the passing
of time.

Hand Loom:
It is still not certain when the weaving process was introduced to human society. It is clear from
many historical records that weaving originated long before the time of Jesus Christ. In England
the major shift from agriculture to woolen industry came in the 14th century.

Earlier version of power loom was run by two men. After the steam engine and cast iron in
early 1800, great attention was paid to increasing productivity of the machine. To help achieve
the increase in productivity, William Radeliffe patented a dressing frame in 1803 for sizing and
drying the warp threads prior to winding on to a weavers beam.

Figure: Conventional loom


Shuttle Loom with Features:
The shuttle loom is the oldest type of weaving loom which uses a shuttle which contains a
bobbin of filling yarn that appears through a hole situated in the side. The shuttle is batted
across the loom and during this process, it leaves a trail of the filling at the rate of about 110 to
225 picks per minute (ppm). Although very effective and versatile, the shuttle looms are slow
and noisy. Also the shuttle sometimes leads to abrasion on the warp yarns and at other times
causes thread breaks. As a result the machine has to be stopped for tying the broken yarns.

Salient Feature of Shuttle Less Looms:

Shuttleless weave 2 to 4 times as much as conventional looms per unit time.


The cost of pirn winding is eliminated
Strain upon the warp threads is reduced due to smaller depth of shed
Heavy cost of repairs and replenishment of worn out parts is reduced They can produce simpler
tubes of fabrics on a large scale and provide opportunities for profitable exploitation in the long
run.
The physical and mental strain upon the weaver is reduced
There is no risk of shuttle fly out owing to the absence of conventional shuttle and packing
being positive
Quality of the fabric gets enhanced because of a positive control over the weaving process
The looms are easier to work and manipulate
Efficiency of the shuttle weaving shed is comparatively higher
5% reduction in value loss for a Rs. 60/- Metre fabric would ensure an additional profit of Rs. 3/-
meter
Higher production per loom
Speed is not the only criterion for the selection of shuttleless looms. Efficiency is also an
important criterion.Efficiency advantage of 10-15% due to shuttle changes, Un weaving of
damages, reduced time for warp changes canbe obtained from shuttleless looms. 5% higher
efficiency would provide an additional profit of Rs. 1/- per metre.
14 minutes stoppage per 24 hours.
Ex works cost is less due to less mending and inspection charges and no pirn winding charges.
Projectile and Air-jet looms suitable for Mass fabrics Rapier for fashion fabrics
Modern Looms:
Modern looms still weave by repeating in sequence the operations of shedding, picking, and
beating in, but within that framework there has been considerable development during the
20th century. Several new types of loom have come into industrial use, whereas older types
have been refined and their scope extended. Two main influences have been the rising cost of
labour and the increasing use of man-made continuous- filament yarns.

Projectile Loom:
Sulzer brothers, Winterthur, Switzerland, Who are pioneer in the field of projectile method of
weft insertion, have been able to convert a brilliant concept Roshman into a viable commercial
weaving machine. It is introduced in the market in 1953.The main feature of this machine is
weft insertion system. A bullet like shuttle 90 mm long & weighting about 40 g, technically
named as gripper projectile is used here to insert the weft thread into the warp threads.

Figure: Projectile loom


Conventional Loom Versus Projectile Loom:
Sulzer projectile weaving machine differs from a conventional automatic loom mainly in two
respects.
The method of insertion of weft into the warp shed
The method of moving the reed and the projectile track
Main Features of Projectile Loom:
The picking are projectile receiving units are separated from the moving sley. The sley carries
the reed & gripper guides.
The gripper projectile made of fine steel, 90 mm long 14mm wide and 6 mm thickness weight is
40 g. It carries the weft thread into the warp shed.
The weft is drawn directly from a large stationary cross wound package. There is no weft
winding.
The gripper projectile is picked across the warp shed at a very high speed ,the picking energy
being derived from the energy stored in a metal torsion bar which is twisted at predetermined
amount of released to give the projectile a high rate of acceleration .
Picking always takes place from one side, but several projectiles are employed and all of them
return to the picking side by a conveyor chain located underneath the warp shed.
During its flight through the shed the projectile runs in a rake likes steel guides, so that the
warp threads are touched neither by the projectile nor weft thread.
Every pick is cut off at the picking side near the selvedge after weft insertion, leaving a length
about 15 mm from the edge. Similar length of weft also projects from the selvedge on the
receiving side.
The ends of weft thread projecting on both sides of the cloth are tucked into the next shed by
means of special tucking device and woven in with next pick, thus providing firm selvedges.
The reed is not reciprocated as in a shuttle loom, but rocked about its axis by a pair of cams.
The reed & projectile guides are stationary during pick insertion.
The sley which carries the reed & projectile guides is moved forward & backward through a
saddle carrying two follower bowls, which bear against the surface of two matched cams.
A sley dwell of 25 degree at back center enables the projectile to travel through the warp shed
without being unnecessary reciprocated by the sley.
Whenever the reed width is reduced for weaving a small width cloth from the standard reed
width, the projectile receiving unit is moved inward on the telescope shaft, to the new selvedge
position, and so the projectile travel distance is reduced.
Smaller shed opening because of the smaller size projectile. This might result in lower warp
breakage rate.
Weft insertion rate up to 900-1500 m/min is possible depending up to the width of the weaving
machine.
The color changing mechanism is less complicated.
In case of weft breakage the take up beam & heald frames can de driven in reverse by a pick
finding mechanism.
Advantages of Projectile Loom as a Modern Loom:
1. Two or three cloths can be woven simultaneously.

2. It is possible to achieve weaving performances with breakage rate per square meter of cloth.
50% of the number of breaks that would occur on a conventional loom.

3. The lower warp breakage rate in a projectile weaving machine may be due to:
Smaller warp shed
Reed with higher ratio of air to wire (70:30)
Beat up line being nearer to the centre of the reed between the two baulks.
Smaller warp shed will reduce the warp threads tension to some extent. However care should
be taken to maintain uniform tension to ensure that the warp shed is of same depth from one
end to another. Otherwise a few slack warp threads at the top shed will result in stitching and
end cut of the projectile.
4. Since the projectile is passing through guides there is no reed to projectile or projectile to
yarn contact.

5. With the introduction of four/six colors weaving machine all the mechanical problems of the
conventional pick & pick multicolored loom are eliminated.

Suggestions:
The main feature of projectile loom is inserting the weft thread by projection method. If the
fault from the machine can be reduced then it will have the more weaving speed.

Rapier Loom:
Insertion of weft by rapier is a mechanically modern & refined version of the primitive method
of fabric production in which the weft was secured in a slot of a stick. At present version of the
gripper head which are attached to rapiers which are flexible tapes or rigid rods. Mr. John
Gabler can be regarded as the father of modern rapier technology he has built a rapier device
on a cotton weaving machine in 1922.

Scope of Rapier:.

Single rapier loom can insert weft only on alternate rapier traverse.
In many cases this is modified to achieve a higher rapier velocity in the early and late parts of
the movement and thus a over maximum velocity halfway through the movement.
Due to high rate of insertion the possibility of yarn breakages rate may increase.
Additionally, it is necessary to control the weft by passing it trough an effective tension
arrangement so that the weaving tension will be more uniform, this can also occurred weft
break.
Features of Rapier Loom:
An useful feature of rigid rapiers is that they can be simultaneously inserted in two sheds one
above the other, for producing double plush and certain carpets.
Rapier loom may have various types according to the weft insertion mechanism & number of
pick such as insertion of double pick, insertion of single pick, two phase rapier etc.
In all rapier looms to-and-fro-movement of the rapiers is derived initially either from a linkage
mechanism or from a cam. The use of linkage mechanism has the advantages of simplicity
reliability & is cheap, quite and consumers less energy than a cam mechanism but it does not
provide any dwell to the rapiers.
The only two phase rapier in commercial operation is the saurer of width 2 x 185 cm or 2 x 220
cm having weft insertion rate is about 1200 mpm.
The rigid rapier is driven from the centre and has a rapier head at each end.In one cycle of 360
degree the rapier inserts one pick alternately in the right hand and the left hand fabrics, the
picks being inserted and beaten up in opposite phase .
In gabler system of weft insertion the rapier system is combined with air jet picking system.
Gabler system rapier may be single sided or double sided. The machine include on gabler
system Draper DSL,Gusken etc.Those operating on dewas system include dornier, picanol, Novo
pignon SACM, Gunne, Smit, Sommet, Sulzer-Ruti etc.

Rapier Loom
Integrating the features of rapier looms of Model SJ758 and other imported and domestic
rapier looms, Model SJ736-III rapier loom is specially designed for weaving of light, medium and
heavy fabrics and check designs, it adopts automatic pick finder and electronic color selector.

Features of Rapier Loom:

Control panel:
The loom is controlled by the control panel with a micro-computer, the lcd display provides a
very user-friendly human-machine interface, which shows the production statistic data of each
shift and provides the weft color programming function.

Weft color selection:


The machine adopts electronic color selector up to 8 colors, and the color selection pattern is
programmed directly on the machine control panel.

Wefting:
Wefting mechanism adopts 6-lever wefting structure and can ensure the adjustment of the
rapier entry and exit time and ensure stable wefting and insertion motion. This machine adopts
4 levers, short connectors and short sley to complete the beating motion, the rock shaft adopts
110mm(diameter) seamless tube to ensure the beating strength and can be suitable for high-
speed motion and weaving of heavy and high density fabrics. The rapier transmission box
adopts the advanced helix umbrella gearsto ensure stable transmission. The tension device
adopts 3-rear-beam tension structure, which is specially designed for balancing the warp
tension of high-density weaving and can improve the quality of the weaving fabrics.

Pick finding mechanism:


The machine adopts electronic let-off mechanism with a high-accuracy step motor and the
optimized mechanical take-up system for stable and accurate pick finding motion. The pick
finding motion is very stable and proved to be very successful and reliable.

The adoption of two pressing rollers on the fabric winding roller enables the worker to unload
the fabric from the fabric roller without stop. The frequent adoption of bearings for the major
moving parts provides better performance and easier maintenance.

Suggestions:
Some of the disadvantages of rapier loom if may reduced then this machine will be more
effective for weaving.

Advantages of Rapier Loom: Over Conventional Loom:

The rapier loom doesn’t require dynamic forces or anything like the magnitude as those
involved in the conventional loom.
The weft insertion rate in a rapier loom is very much influenced by the method of weft control.
Weft insertion rate is very high rather than any conventional loom
It can occur double pick at a time by double picking insertion system. Here is no need to cut the
weft selvedges and no weft wastage.
Weft insertion rate is very high rather than any conventional loom Rigid rapiers has a useful
features that they can be simultaneously inserted in two sheds one above the other ,for
producing double plush and certain carpets.
Looms that use rigid rapiers eliminate entirely the need to assist the rapier head through the
warp shed, this is a un doubted advantages.
Air Jet Loom:
Weft insertion by means of air jet has made a major breakthrough in the early 70s and its
importance is increasing further because of its ability to weave a wide range of fabrics at a very
high speed weft insertion rate of about 2000 mpm. The first attempt to use a compressed air
steam instead of shuttle is made by Brooks in 1914.

Scope of Air Jet Loom:

To insert the weft threads here used compressed air.


Not suitable for the coarser count or heavier fabric.
The timing of jet activity should be controlled in such a way that the main nozzle is supplied
with compressed air from the beginning of the weft insertion phase and the relay nozzles also
receive compressed air.
High maintenances is needed.
Features of Air Jet Loom:

Air jet weaving machine is high speed machine having good quality
For instance on a weaving machine having a speed of 600 rpm the weaving cycle is 100m/s.
Cam control valves have the advantages of high speed precision of action whilst the electrically
controlled solenoid valves permit easy setting.
Finer count of yarn is used as the weft thread to produce fency type of fabric.

Figure: Air jet loom


Advantages of Air Jet Loom Over Conventional Loom:
The conventional loom requires shuttle or shuttle like substance to insert the weft yarn,
comparatively in air jet loom there is no need to any kind of shuttle instead of shuttle here the
compressed air force is used.
In the conventional loom the pick insertion rate is very low compare to the air jet loom.
The weft stop motion is machine controlled over the differ from conventional loom
In conventional loom the mechanical or hand shuttle reach the weft thread to the fell of the
cloth, but in air jet through air force this is done, here uniform let up, take up, uniform picking,
uniform bet up is possible.
It has the automatic weft repair device.
Disadvantages:

Short or buckle pick


Loose pick
Snarling
Excess dynamic pressure
Weft stop problem
Tip problem
Timing of shed may not be proper
Too high or too low main nozzle pressure
Left side warp yarn is loose.
Suggestions:
Air jet loom has some disadvantages like as floating the yarn into wrong direction. To get the
better result these main disadvantages must be reduced.

Water Jet Loom:


The first loom to make use of a water jet for insertion of weft was developed by Satyr.The loom
was first shown at the Brussels textile Machinery Exhibition in 1995.

Scope of Water Jet Loom:


Weft and warp yarn must be insensitive .i.e hydrophobic in nature.
Weaving of the water attractive fabric is not possible by the water jet loom,
Thermoplastic yarns offer the advantages of severance of weft by a heated blade and the
provision of a heat selvedge by fusing.
It has required miniature pump to feed water under pressure to the nozzle.

Figure: Water Jet loom.


Features of Water Jet:

New “ZW8100 Water Jet Loom” for the next generation

The water jet loom demonstrated at ITMA ASIA 2005 as a concept model now has debuted as
the “ZW8100.” The new model “ZW8100” inherited the basic abilities of the “ZW series” that
has enjoyed an excellent reputation as the global standard water jet loom and has enhanced
stability at high speed. The ZW8100 intends to succeed and advance the long-cultivated basic
abilities of water jet looms – weaving technology, high- speed ability, quality, and energy-saving
– for the next hundred years.

Tsudakoma consistently emphasises the basic abilities: high speed, quality, versatility, eco-
friendliness. Tsudakoma particularly focuses on ultra high speed ability - the mission of all jet
looms. Because it considers ultra high speed as the base, Tsudakoma has optimised the frame
structure, the beating system and the shedding system, and employs a newly-developed nozzle.
A navigation system that enjoys a good reputation for air jet looms is also employed while
taking careful note on higher versatility and better operability. To give the best answer to reply
to market demands, fulfilling basic abilities is indispensable. Flexibility to woven material is also
increased. True user-friendliness is attained.
The ZAX9100 is well-established for its ultra-high speed ability. The “ZAX9100HD” is a package
model that can weave heavy fabrics at high speed while keeping quality high with enhanced
basic abilities and new technology. Tsudakoma’s unique heavy-duty structure responds to
user’s strict quality demands. The exhibit demonstrated weaving quality yarn-dyed shirting at
high speed.

The ZAX9100 is ranked as a premium air jet loom provided with the “Weave
Navigation System.” It handles diverse responsibilities, such as being cost-competitive, quick
style change, value-added fabrics, and developing new fabrics that will be required more
than ever. The ESS Electronic Shedding System, 6-colour weft selection, and the PSC
support weaving value-added fabrics of various kinds and thickness wefts. The
PSC Programmable Speed Control controls the rpm per one pick according to weft kinds
and fabric weaves in order to attain stable weaving, thus the operation efficiency
is considerably increased. Fabrics formerly limited to rapier looms are woven easily keeping
quality.

Tsudakoma has the largest air jet terry weaving experience in the world. Many terry weavers
consider Tsudakoma’s air jet looms the standard. While fusing the ultra-high speed ability of
the ZAX9100 with its abundant terry weaving know-how, various elaborately designed towels
such as pileheight changes and pile-cycle switching between 3 to 7-picks can be woven with a
pleasant texture. In combination with the electronic Jacquard motion higher value-added terry
cloth can be woven.

The “Versa-Terry System” is the integration of Tsudakoma’s terry weaving technology. Various
systems that Tsudakoma developed especially for terry are enhanced and new technology for
weaving diversified terry cloth designs is employed. The “Versa-Terry System” inherits and
advances the thorough experience of the world’s largest record of air-jet terry weaving
machines. Improving all of its basic abilities: speed, versatility, quality, energy saving,
operability, the ZAX9100-Terry realizes true user-friendliness.

Water Jet Loom Advantages:


Water jet propulsion has many advantages over other forms of marine propulsion, such
as stern drives, outboard motors, shafted propellers and surface drives. These
advantages include...

Excellent Maneuverability

Precise steering control at all boat speeds


"Zero Speed" steering effect provides 360° thrusting ability for docking and holding stationary.
Sideways movement possible with multiple jet installations.
High efficiency astern thrust with "power-braking" ability at speed
High Efficiency
Propulsive coefficients as good or higher than the best propeller systems achievable at medium
to high planning speeds
Flexibility when using multiple water jets may allow operators to continue to operate efficiently
on fewer drives
Low Drag and Shallow Draught
Absence of underwater appendages reduces hull resistance
Shallow draught - the water jet intake is flush with hull bottom to allow access to shallow water
areas and beach landings with no risk of damage to the drive
Low Maintenance
No protruding propulsion gear eliminates impact damage or snags
Minimum downtime and simple maintenance routines
Smooth and Quiet

No hull vibration, no torque effect and no high speed cavitations gives maximum comfort levels
on board
Low underwater acoustic signature
Total Safety
No exposed propeller for complete safety around people in the water and marine life
Maximum Engine Life

Jet unit impeller is finely matched to engine power


Power absorption is the same regardless of boat speed
No possibility of engine overload under any conditions
Simplicity

Single packaged module


No heavy and expensive gearbox required for many installations. Simple driveline from engine
to jet coupling
Easy installation
Complete factory tested package, ready to bolt in
No difficult engine alignment problems.
Comments on Water Jet:
Water jet loom is produce shed by using the high force of water. In the weaving I think that is a
tremendous invention.

Multiphase Loom:
The phase number of a loom is defined as the average number of shuttles or weft
carriers inserting weft simultaneously. It is shown that existing multi-phase looms must have
high phase numbers to compensate for their low shuttle velocity. The analysis suggests
that looms with high-velocity flying shuttles would achieve equally high weft-insertion
rates with moderate increases in the phase number. Such moderate increases in the
phase number can be obtained by dividing the shedding and beat-up motions into
a comparatively small number of sections. The suggested alternative would avoid many ofthe
textile and engineering problems arising in existing multi-phase looms.
Figure: Multiphase loom
Features of Multiphase Loom:
A multi-phase loom with magnetic shuttle features that the spiral reed blade with shuttle path
is used for beating-up.
The linear motor is used for wefting, the heald wheel or electromagnetically excited heald
needle is used for opening, and the weft opening with off-line multi-path asynchronous weft
replenishing is used.
Its advantages include high efficiency, high speed and low weaving cost.
The multiphase loom can form many different sheds at different places, thereby enabling
insertion of number of filling yarns, one behind the other.
Advantages of Multiphase Loom Over Conventional Loom:
An analysis of the factors determining the weft-insertion rate of weaving machines shows that
these factors are essentially the same on all looms in which shuttles or weft carriers are used,
such as conventional shuttle looms, gripper- shuttle looms, and multi-phase looms.
Its advantages include high efficiency, high speed and low weaving cost.
The multiphase loom can form many different sheds at different places, thereby enabling
insertion of number of filling yarns, one behind the other.
Suggestions:
The multiphase loom is the modern invention of the new era. For the excellent loom speed and
weaving speed it is now very popular to the many industrialists. But here in Bangladesh the
multiphase loom are not available in every factory due to its higher cost. We think in
Bangladesh if this machine being available then many weavers will get the real benefit of the
multiphase machine.

Comments:
The features of the Modern loom versus conventional loom indicate the main advantages of
the modern loom. The difference between the shedding stop motion and driving mechanism is
mainly described in this paper. We think the creating activities of this assignment will help us in
our practical life to get our higher education.

Introduction:
Loom is a machine which used to form woven fabric. A loom contains different parts. Every part
has individual function. There I discuses the function different parts of loom with figure.

Cross section of shuttle loom with identification:

Cross section of shuttle loom with identification


Function of different parts with specific figure:

Warp Beam:
The warp beam, which holds the warp yarns, is located at the back of the machine and is
controlled so that it releases warp yarns to the weaving area of the loom as needed. This beam
is produced by warping.

Figure: Warp Beam


Healds Shaft:
It is a frame which contain more amount of wire .Every wire contain a hole or eye in its center
through which a warp yarn is threaded. Healds control the warp yarn to produce shed by the
tappet, dobby, orjacquard mechanisms.

Figure: Heald Shaft


Shuttle:
Shuttle is the device used in weaving to carry the weft warn. The picking are completed by
shuttle at shuttle loom. The filling thread is wound on a bobbin which sets into the shuttle or
bobbin container. As the shuttle passes back and forth through the warp shed, it releases
thread from the bobbin and so forms the filling cloth.

Figure : Shuttle
Reed:
This is inevitably a combination made up of steel wire rods set vertically in a frame. The spaces
between the wires are known as splits or dents and are kept even and parallel. This is the first
function of reed. Its second function is to feed the filling thread into position. To do this it has
to move in a back and forth motion. It attach the pick with fell of the cloth .
Figure: Reed
Cloth Roller:
The cloth beam, which holds the fabrics , is located at the front of the machine . The produced
fabric are wind on this beam by take up motion.

Figure: Cloth Roller


Picker:
It is a parts which attach with a spindle. Its get motion from picking arm and this motion help
the shuttle to passing one side to another side. It made by plastics.
Figure: Picker
Picking Stick or Arm:
It is a wooden arm or stick which give motion on the picker.

Figure: Picking Arm


Temple:
The parts at the edges of the cloth which supports to maintain fixed dimension in width.

Figure: Temple
Lease Rod:
Another guiding device it is for the warp yarns. These are two sorts of wooden or glass rods set
between the whip rolls and the heddles. Alternating warp threads can be kept separate by
passing over and under these rods.

Figure: Lease Rod

Shedding in Weaving machines


The angle which is formed by the raising threads with the threads remaining in low position is
called shed. The shed must be as wide open as to permit the easy passage of the weft insertion
element. The shed can be obtained by either moving the heald frames or by directly moving the
heald frames through. The machines used to form the shed are cam machines, dobbies, and
Jacquard machines.
FABRICWEAVING
By Textile School Last updated Mar 19, 2018

The angle which is formed by the raising threads with the threads remaining in low position is
called shed; the shed must be as wide open as to permit the easy passage of the weft insertion
element.
The shed can be obtained in two different ways:
by moving the heald frames, the healds of which are crossed by the warp threads according to a
pre-established drawing-in;
by moving directly the healds through which one or several independent threads pass (figured or
Jacquard weaving).
The machines used to form the shed are cam machines, dobbies, and Jacquard machines.
Cam shedding or base weave machines
This kind of machine is employed for all fabrics produced with base weaves which have a
pattern
a repeat of 10-12 threads and maximum 6-8 wefts.
These machines can operate either with positive or negative shaft motion. The principle of
positive
motion involves that the shafts are raised as well as lowered driven by cams. The negative
motion
instead implies the motion of the shafts either in the upwards stroke or in the downwards stroke,
while the backward movement is obtained through springs. The positive shaft motion has a
conjugated structure which permits to control the shaft during all processing phases and to
minimize vibrations, thus making cams suitable for any working load at high speeds.
Operation of a cam machine (positive motion)

This machine has conjugated cams fastened on a central shaft; the two profiles are read by
small wheels mounted idle on a roller lever connected at its end with the heald frame rods.
The two cams are mutually complementary so that when a cam presents its maximum
eccentricity, the other cam presents the minimum eccentricity. This characteristic permits to push
upwards the right wheel and at the same time to produce the same movement with the left wheel
but in the opposite direction.

1. driving shaft 2.
toothed bevel gear pairs 3. group of conjugated cams 4. pin on which roller levers are set up.
The displacement of the roller lever causes the raising of the shaft.
In the case of balanced weaves, i.e. plain weave, twill weave, diagonal 2/2, the two cams are
identical, but have each towards the other a phase angle which is established already during
their construction.
For the production of the remaining weaves, the overturning of the two cams permits to obtain
the opposite effect, e.g. changing over from warp to weft twill.
The cam units are as many as the working heald frames and the shaft modifies its running speed
according to the weave to be produced, consequently, he speed corresponds to the revolution
number of the machine/n and the figure 360/n shows the angle at which a weft of the repeat is
inserted (n corresponds to the number of repeat wefts).
Dobbies
Dobbies are used for the production of plain or flat fabrics, that is of fabrics characterized by
maximum 28-32 threads in the weave repeat.
Dobbies can be divided into:
According to the working principle:
Hattersley dobbies
rotary dobbies
The Hattersley dobbies are dobbies which control the movement of the heald frames through
rods and rocker levers. The rotary dobbies attain the raising and lowering of the heald frame
through rotating members.
According to the raising motion of the heald frames:
dobbies with positive drive
dobbies with negative drive
According to the card reading system:
dobbies with endless pattern card
dobbies with magnetic card
Jacquard machines
The name Jacquard machines originates from the designer who improved its operation; today
the name ″Jacquard″ is used to identify all machines with a capacity higher than 28-32 threads,
which are therefore used to produce figured fabrics.
The indication of the capacity of the machine, which in the past was used to differentiate the
various machine models, has today no significance, as the hook number is no more strictly
related to the mechanical structure of the machine.
Jacquard machines were initially classified as follows:
Jacquard machines
Vincenzi machines
Verdol machines
At present only Verdol machines and electronic Jacquard machines are still on the market.
Jacquard machines can be classified as follows:
According to card reading system:
dobbies with endless pattern card reading system
dobbies with electronic reading system

Electronic Jacquard
In these machines the traditional hooks have been replaced by electro-mechanically operated
modules which are driven and controlled by an electronic program. The Jacquard machines
available
on the market are double lift machines and have in respect to mechanical Jacquard machines
following advantages:

easy maintenance owing to following reasons:


no point needing lubrication,
few moving parts
modular construction and thus easy access;
low vibration even at high speed;
reduced setting time, as the machine is electronically controlled and therefore no paper is needed.
Operation principle of a dobby
Today the rotary dobby is, from the technological point of view, the most advanced dobby
available on the market.
It consists of a central shaft on which the driving bars are positioned. On a follower ring, an
eccentric plate is mounted; the plate is constrained within a block which is pivoted with the
control levers of the rods.
Under normal working conditions, that is with the heald frames in bottom position, there is no
the connection between the follower ring and the plate; the connection can be obtained by
inserting a slider which runs in proper guides.
The central shaft is driven by a modulator which has two stop times situated each other at 180
degrees ; at this very moment the key can be controlled according to the design to be produced

Define Sizing | Objects of Sizing | Types of sizing | Properties of Size Ingredients |


Disadvantages of Sizing
Sizing:
Size is a gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion form, applied normally to
warp yarns. It can sometimes be applied to weft yarns. Sizing is the process of applying the size
material on yarn. A generic term for compounds that are applied to warp yarn to bind the fiber
together and stiffen the yarn to provide abrasion resistance during weaving. Starch, gelatin, oil,
wax, and manufactured polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polystyrene, polyacrylic acid, and
polyacetates are employed. The process of applying sizing compounds. The process of weighing
sample lengths of yarn to determine the count. Now automation is used in sizing operation.
Fig: Yarn sizing
Objects of Sizing:

To protect the yarn from abrasion


To improve the breaking strength of the yarn
To increase smoothness of yarn
To increase yarn elasticity
To decrease hairiness
To decrease the generation of static electricity
Types of Sizing:

Pure sizing: when the size pick up % is about 3 – 10 % it is called pure sizing.
Light sizing: when the size pick up % is about 11 -16% it is called light sizing.
Medium sizing: when the size pick up % is about 17 – 40 % it is called medium sizing.
Heavy sizing: when the size pick up % is above 40 % then it is called heavy sizing.
Disadvantages of Sizing:

Cost of land and machine is high


Requires lot of labors
Requires utility like gas, electricity etc and their cost is high
Cost of ingredients
The process is long and it takes time
There is a risk of degradation of yarn
The yarn diameter is increased
Requires robust loom
It increases yarn stiffness
The fabric needs to be desized before use
Need knowledge and information about the size ingredients
There is a risk of pollution
Sizing changes the shade of colored yarn
100% size material cannot be removed
Size material presence leads to uneven dying

Giving a sized film on the circumference of the yarn body (protection of the yarn).
Making thin places stronger.
Making thick places (with a relatively low twist) stronger.
To reduce electrostatic formation for synthetic or blended yarns.
Benefits of Sizing
It prevents the warp yarn breakage due to abrasion with neighboring yarns or with backrest,
heald eye and reed.
It improves the yarn strength by 10 to 20%, although it is not the primary objective of sizing
process.
Characteristics of Sized Yarn expected by management
Higher strength
Lower elongation loss
Higher bending rigidity
Higher abrasion resistance
Lower hairiness
Lower frictional resistance
Creep factor affecting elongation and elasticity of yarns
The performance of the yarn in weaving improves as the size add-on increases. The optimum
add-on level is marked by a very low level of warp breakage rate. However, if the size add-on is
higher than the optimum level then warp breakage rate increases again largely due to the loss of
elongation and increase in bending rigidity of the yarns.

Properties of Size Ingredients | Size Ingredients and Their Functions


Size and Sizing:
Size is a coating with a gelatinous or other substance to add strength or stiffness or to reduce
absorbency. Sizing is the process of applying the size material on yarn.

Properties of Size Ingredients

Ease of preparation
Uniform viscosity
Absence of prolonged congealing and kenning at application temperature
pH control
Absence of foaming properties
Absence of prolonged tackiness
Compatibility with other components of the size
Stability towards decomposition
Ease of desizing
Size Ingredients and their functions

Adhesive: Example: maize, wheat, corn, potato, ferina, sago, PVC, PVA, CMC
Function: It increases yarn strength and abrasion resistance

Lubricant: Example: mineral oil, linseed oil, tallow, Japan was, cotton oil
Function: Increases yarn smoothness and elasticity

Antiseptic agent: Example: ZnCl2 , Phenol, carboxylic acid, synthetic acid


Function: It helps to store the yarn without being damaged and it also gives protection from
bacteria or fungus.

Deliquescent agent: Example: MgCl2, glycerin


Function: It prevents brittleness of size and helps to keep the standard moisture regain by not
allowing water to enter or exit the fibre.

Weighting agent: Example: china clay, French chalk


Function: It increases the weight of the yarn

Wetting agent: Example: MgCl2


Function: Helps to wet the yarn instantaneously

Tinting agent: Example: Blue


Function: It helps o increase the brightness of yarn

Antifoaming agent: Example: Benzene, Pyridine


Function: It prevents the formation of foam

The optimum level of size add-on will depend on the following factors:
Type of fiber
Type of size materials
Yarn spinning technology
Yarn count and twist
Level of hairiness in the yarn
Loom type and loom speed
Although add-on primarily influences the weaving performance, it is possible to have different
weaving performances even at the same level of size add-on. This can happen due to differences
in (a) Size penetration and (b) Size coating or encapsulation
Formula checklist.
After meeting the requirements for a perfect size formula in terms of sizing efficiency, there are
other considerations which must then be weighed. These considerations must be met by
answering following questions
Will the material be available in uniform grades? If not, there will be trouble ahead when results
vary from one batch to another.
Will the material be available when needed and insufficient quality?
Will the cost of the material be prohibitive? The price of material is itself is not the whole
consideration. A high-priced material size may be worth the difference in results when compared
with a cheaper formula which causes frequent loom stoppages or ruined cloth.
Will the material be compatible with other materials being used?

Only after the above questions are answered can a sound decision be made regarding the
selection of a size.
The various properties which can be readily compared to known test methods and definitely have
an effect on weave ability of the yarn are 1. Abrasion resistance under tension (test both yarns
against yarn and yarn against metal)
Increase in tensile strength.
The minimum loss of elasticity.
Flexibility
Smoothness of film
Shock resistance, ability to withstand repeated strains
Resistance to the cutting of adjacent ends by knots and gouts.
Fiber laying
Film hardness.
Sensitivity to changes in relative humidity.
Resistance to shedding.
Film strength
Adhesion to yarns.
Residual elongation.
Reduction of friction
These tests can give only some indication of what to expect in the weave room an indication is
better than nothing, and often the reason why a warp is running improperly can be determined by
such tests

Evaluation of sizing in the weave room


Production efficiency
Loom stoppages from warp defects
Cloth quality
Cloth appearance and hand
Shedding of size
Shedding of lint.

Warping:
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone, cheese) on to a
common package (warp beam) is called warping.
Warping carries out following operations:
Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads, of a warp composed of any number of
threads with the desired length;
Arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the desired sequence;
Manufacturing of a warp beam with said characteristics.
Objects of Warping:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be
collect on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used
for sizing or next process .
Warping process involves:
Importance of Warping:
Construction of a beam of warp yarn.
Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.
Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place.
Winding the pre- determined length of yarn.
Combination of small packages.
Accelerating the next process.
Important requirements of Warping:
The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the
time of with drawl from the supply package.
Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete retain its elastic properties.
Predetermined length should be observed.
Production rate should be high as possible.
The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.
Components of warping machine:
*** Creel
Single end creel
Magazine creel
Travelling package creel
Swivel frame creel
V – Shaped creel
*** Head stock
Fixed
Traveling

Definition of winding | Objects of winding | Requirements of winding | Types of


Winding

Winding:
Winding is one of the most important operation, which is mainly occurred in spinning section.
Besides, it is also important in fabric manufacturing. In fabric manufacturing, directly winding is
not so much important, but rewinding is so important. The creation of large yarn packages that
can be easily unwound, is called winding. This makes using the yarn on subsequent machines
both easier and more economical.
So we can say that, the process of transferring yarns from ring, bobbin, hank into a suitable
package is called winding. It may be electrical or mechanical.
For warp winding → Cone, cheese, flanged bobbin.
For weft winding → Pirn, cop.

Objects of winding:
• To transfer yarn from one package to another suitable package, this can be conveniently used
for used for weaving process.
• To remove yarns fault like hairiness, naps, slabs, foreign matters.
• To clean yarn.
• To increase the quality of yarn.
• To get a suitable package.
• To store the yarn.
Requirements of winding:
The requirements of winding may be summarized as follow:
• The fault level in the yarn must be reduced to an acceptable level.
• The yarn must not be damaged in any way in the winding process.
• The yarn must be wound in such a way as to permit unwinding in the following process with
a minimum of difficulty at the required speeds.
• The package size, shape and build must be the most technologically suitable for the
particular end use.
• The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic requirements.
• The winding operation must be geared to give the best possible economic performance of
the whole process of fabric manufacture.
Types of Winding:
• Precision Winding.
• Non Precision Winding.
Precision Winding:
By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near parallel
manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum amount of
yarn stored in a given volume.
Features:
Packages are wound with a reciprocating traverse.
Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages.
Package contains more yarn.
Package is less stable.
The package is hard and compact.
The package is dense.
Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard.
The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner.
Non Precision Winding:
By this type of winding the package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package at
appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give stability to the package. The
packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable.
Features:
Only one coil is used to make this package.
Cross winding technique is used.
The package density is low.
Minimum number of yarn is wound.
The package formed is soft and less compact.
The stability is high.
Flanges are not required.
The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy.
The packages formed have low density.

Definition of pirn
A pirn or quill is a weft bobbin that is placed inside a shuttle in shuttle weaving. As the shuttle
travels back and forth across the width of the shuttle loom, the weft yarn is unwound from the
pirn through the eye (for ordinary shuttle) or slot (for automatic shuttle) of the shuttle and lay in
the shed. The yarn on the quill is tapered at one end such that the yarn with drawl takes place
continuously without entanglement.
Pirn winding process
Winding of a quill is different from the regular winding process. In quilling, the yarn is
transferred from a larger package to the smaller quill, which is shown in figure. Also, the
inspection of yarn is not part of the process, therefore, there is no yarn clearing zone.
The traverse mechanism is also different because of the different geometry of the quill. The
traverse here does not go back and forth along the package. It only builds yarn on one part of the
package at a time, which is shown in the figure. Therefore, quill building is somewhat similar to
the building of a bobbin on a ring spinning frame. This type of winding helps
reduce ballooning effects, maintain uniform tension, and
reduce the possibility of slough-off.
The machines that are used to wind quill are called
“quillers” or pirn winding machines. These machines are
automatic, which means that when the quill is filled, it is
doffed and an empty pirn is placed on the spindle
automatically. With the elimination of the shuttle looms, the
quill winding process is also disappearing.

Types of Winding Package with Advantages and


Disadvantages Fig: Parallel winding or parallel
Types of Winding Package | Parallel Winding | Near wound package
Parallel Winding | Cross Winding

Winding Package:
Winding is one of the most important process before weaving the fabric. Various types of
winding packages are used here. This article has presented the classification
of winding packages with these advantages and disadvantages.

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Different Types of Winding Package:


There are three types of winding packages, which are pointed out in the below:
Parallel winding or parallel wound package,
Near parallel winding or near parallel wound package,
Cross winding or cross wound package.
All the above package have explained in the following with those advantages and
disadvantages:

1. Parallel winding or parallel wound package:


In this type of winding package, yarn is wound parallel to each other on the package containing
flanges on both sides of package. In case of parallel winding package, traversing guide does not
required.

Advantage of Parallel Winding or Parallel Wound Package:


The main advantages of parallel winding or parallel wound package are-
In this package, so many yarns can be wound at a time.
No change of twist during winding.
The package is stable here.
Number of turns per inch will not be changed here.
There is a possibility of side with drawl here.
Here, yarn density is more.
Here, traversing mechanism is not needed.
Disadvantages of Parallel Winding or Parallel Wound Package:
These are-

Here, two sides of the winding package has needed flanged.


Over with drawl is not possible here.
Needed separate mechanism for yarn unwinding.
2. Near Parallel Winding or Near Parallel Wound Package:
In case of near parallel winding or near parallel wound package, the package contains one or
more yarn which are laid very nearly parallel to the layers and which are already existing on the
winding package.

Fig: Near parallel winding or near parallel wound package


Advantages of Near Parallel Winding or Near Parallel Wound Package:
These are-

Flanged is not necessary here.


During winding, no change of number of yarn turns per inch or twist.
The package is comparatively stable.
Side with drawl is possible here.
Disadvantages of Near Parallel Winding or Near Parallel Wound Package:
Those are-

Side with drawl is not possible here.


Traversing mechanism is required here.
Cross Winding or Cross Wound Package:
In case of cross winding or cross wound package, the winding package contains a single yarn
which is laid on the package at an appreciable helix angle so that the layers crossing one another
to provide stability.
Fig: Cross winding or cross wound package
Advantages of Cross Winding or Cross Wound Package:
These are-

Over with drawl is possible here.


Stability of yarn package.
Flanged is not needed here.
Disadvantages of Cross Winding or Cross Wound Package:
Those are-

Yarn quality is less here.


Yarn twist is changed during winding.
Traversing mechanism is required here.

Schematic Way of Winding | Process of Winding


Schematic Way of Winding

Winding area
It has three sections:
The unwinding zone.
The tension & clearing zone.
The winding zone.
The Unwinding Zone:
To rewind the yarn on a new package, it must first be removed from the old package. This is
accomplished in the unwinding zone. This zone merely consists of a creel, which holds the old
package in an optimum position for unwinding. The common yarn withdrawal methods, side
withdrawal & over-end withdrawal.

The Tension & Clearing Zone:


The next zone is the tension & clearing zone. It is in his zone that yarn receives the proper
tension to provide an acceptable package density & build for further processing. This zone
consists of a tension device, a device to detect thick spots or slubs in the yarn & a stop
motion which causes the winding to stop in the case of a yarn break or the depletion of a supply
package. The yarn is directed into this zone by a guide.

The Winding Zone:


In this section, winding process is done here.

PRECISION WINDING FEATURES


Packages are wound with reciprocating traverse. Package contains more yarn. Low
stability of package. Hard and more compact package. Low unwinding rate. The wound
coils are arranged parallely or near parallely.

FEATURES OF NON-PRECESSION WINDING

Coils are cross wound. Package is of low density. Less amount of yarn is stored
in package. High stability of package can be obtained. Flange is not necessary.
Unwinding rate is very high.

Difference between Precession and Non-Precession Winding

Precession winding Non-Precession winding

1. The wound coil arranged parallel or near parallel.


1. The coil is cross wise wound.
2. The yarn density of the package is high.
2. The yarn density of a package is low.
3. Flanged bobbin may be used. 3. Not use of flanged.
4. The yarn package is hard and more compact.
4. The yarn package is soft and less compact.
5. Low stability of the package. 5. High stability of the package.
6. Winding angle is 90° or near 90° 6. Winding angle is less than 80°
7. The bobbin is wound with one or more threads
7. The bobbin is wound with single thread.
8. Yarn tension is comparatively high.
8. Yarn tension is comparatively low
9. Unwinding rate is low. 9. Unwinding rate is high.

Warping | Objects of Warping | Importance of Warping in Weaving


Warping:
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone, cheese) on to a common
package (warp beam) is called warping.

Warping carries out following operations:

Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads, of a warp composed of any number of
threads with the desired length;
Arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the desired sequence;
Manufacturing of a warp beam with said characteristics.
Objects of Warping:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be collect on a
single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used for sizing or next process .

Warping process involves:

Warping process
Importance of Warping:

Construction of a beam of warp yarn.


Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.
Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place.
Winding the pre- determined length of yarn.
Combination of small packages.
Accelerating the next process.
Important requirements of Warping:
The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the time of
with drawl from the supply package.
Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete retain its elastic properties.
Predetermined length should be observed.
Production rate should be high as possible.
The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.
Components of warping machine:

*** Creel
Single end creel
Magazine creel
Travelling package creel
Swivel frame creel
V – Shaped creel
*** Head stock
Fixed
Traveling

Shedding:
Dividation of warp threads into two parts for insertion of weft threads is called shed and
the mechanism of shed is called shedding, it is the first primary motion of weaving.

Types of shed:
Bottom close shed
Centre close shed
Semi-open shed
Open shed
1. Bottom close shed:
This type of shedding is produced by giving motion only to threads that are to form the
upper line. Under this condition, the warp is level on the bottom line. Hence in order to
form a top shed, it is necessary to move some threads through a space equal to twice
the depth of a shed, once up and down, before a fresh selection is made. A shed of this
kind is known as stationary bottom with a rising and falling top.

A→ Bottom line of warp


B→ Rising and falling line
C→ An arrow showing the space passed through

Advantages:
Alternate tightening and slackening the warp threads produce a covered cloth
Produce fire fabric (silk)
Used in hand loom
Disadvantages:
More stress or tension on the top warp line and less tension on the bottom warp line.
More chance of breakage on top warp line
Unequal warp tension produces poor quality fabric
Loom speed/ waving speed is slower
Not possible to produce compact fabric
More power consumption
More time required
2. Center close shed:
This type of shed is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which
are to form the top line and the downward movement to the threads which are to form
the bottom line. Then after inserting a pick, both the lines meet at the center between
the highest and lowest lines of a divided warp.

A→ Closed warp line


B, C→ Upper and lower lines of a divided warp respectively
D→ Arrow showing the half distance of a shed in an upward direction
E→ Arrow showing the half distance of a shed in a downward direction

Advantages:
Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
Less time required so high production
Less wear of the m/c
Less power consumption
Less tear of the threads
Disadvantages:
Beat up takes place in the closed shed condition
There is chance of weft being moved backward
Compact fabric can not be produced by this shed
3. Semi-open shed:
In this shed, the stationary bottom is retained but threads for the top line either passes
to bottom at one movement and again carried to the top mid way and again carried to
top. In this shed close and open shed occurred simultaneously. In it the stationary
bottom line is retained, but threads for the top line either pass to the bottom at one
movement, or are arrested midway and again carried to the top. Such a shed can be
formed as expeditiously as an open shed, for the upward movement begins and ends
with the downward through movement, and the arrested downward movement is
converted into an upward movement immediately the falling threads are in the same
plane as the rising ones. They all reach the top together but the strain upon them is not
equally distributed.

A→ Stationary bottom line


B→ Top point
C→ The point where downward movement ceases in threads
D, E→ Showing the movement of through healds
F→ Arrow showing the threads which are to lift for the next pick

Advantages:
Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
All the warp yarns are not required to move up and down in every pick
Beat up takes places in the cross-shed condition
The loom can run at a faster speed
Possible to produce compact fabric
Less complexity or disturbance in the shedding mechanism
Used in power, dobby & jacquard loom
For fancy fabric
Less power consumption
Less tear of threads
Disadvantages:
Unusable movement
4. Open shed:
In open shed, the warp threads form two stationary lines, the top line and the bottom
line and changes are made by carrying the threads from one fixed line to the other
without any interval.

A, B→ Stationary warp line


C, D→ Arrows which show the movement of rising and falling warp to equal the
distance between A & B

Advantages:
Beat up takes place in cross-shed condition
Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
The loom can run at a fastest speed
Extensively used in tappet shedding mechanism
Basic fabric (twill, sateen, plain) can be produced.
Less power consumption
Less wear of the weaving m/c
Disadvantages:
High breakage rate
If higher no of healds are used then the warp in back healds are more strained than the front
ones
Leveling apparatus should be added to open shed to place the headls in one plane.
Definition of Tappet, Dobby and Jacquard Shedding | Definition of Dwell period | Advantages
and Disadvantages of Tappet and Dobby shedding
Tappet shedding
By strongly beating the anti-friction bowl which is attached with cradle bowl in order to
form shed for running arrangement of shuttle by the control of heald shaft is called tappet
shedding. I.e. which types of shed are formed in tappet loom is called tappet shedding.

Rapier tappet shedding loom

Dobby shedding
The dobby is a shedding device placed on the top of a loom in order to produce a pattern
by using a large number of healds than the capacity of a tappet. In fancy weaving the dobby is
used to produce small pattern by means of warp threads and healds. The shed which is produced
by a dobby is called dobby shedding.

Rapier loom machine with dobby


Dobby is generally used to control 8-36 number of heald shaft for shedding.
Jacquard shedding
The jacquard is a shedding device placed on the top of the loom to produce large patterns
by using a large number of warp threads separately by means of harness cords, hooks and
needles. But no heald shaft is used here. The shed which is produced by jacquard is called
jacquard shedding.

Rapier Jacquard Loom Machine


When more than 36 no. of warp required for shedding of a particular design, is done by
jacquard shedding. It can be used to operate up to 2200 individual yarn for shedding.
Dwell period
The tappet should be so made that headls will remain stationary while the shuttle passes
through the shed. This stationary period is known as dwell of healds or dwell period or pause.
Or, Dwell is the stationary period when the heald frames do not change their position and
shed remains open to allow the passage of the shuttle from one shuttle box to another.
The dwell period depend upon the following factors –
● The width of the fabrics. In narrow fabrics dwell will be short.
● In widths loom the dwell period will be long.
In widths loom the dwell period will be long.
● In narrow R.S loom dwell period will be short and vice versa.
● For fine and tender warp dwell period will be short.
● For coarse, strong and elastic warp, dwell period will be long.
● If the picking force is high the dwell period will be short.
Advantages and disadvantages of tappet shedding
Advantages
● Simplest.
● Cheapest of all shedding motions.
● If conveniently employed, it gives the best result within its capacity.
● Action is certain.
● Less wear and tear.
● It can move healds at high speed.
● Dwell period may be adjusted to suit the type of fabric to be woven.
● Puts less strain upon the threads.
● Consumes less power and gives greater output.
● It causes fewer defects to the fabric.
Disadvantages
● Over shedding strains and breaks the warp threads.
● Under shedding does not permit the passage of the shuttle through the shed.
● Sometimes unequal shedding by lifting one end of the shaft more than other.
● Missed shedding.
● Unsuited dwell period.
● May impart jerky motion.
Advantages and disadvantages of dobby shedding
Advantages
● In this loom many numbers of healds can be used for weave a figured fabrics.
● Particularly 12-24 healds can be used in a cotton industry to weave fabrics.
● In which fabrics are not possible to weave in tappet shedding loom and jacquard loom for
increasing the production cost, to weave this kind of fabrics dobby are used extensively.
Disadvantages
● Comparatively cost is high than tappet loom.
● Less productivity than tappet loom.
● Less speed.
● The adjustment of dwell is complicated.
● Maintenance cost is so high.

Shedding tappet | Types | Position of fixing shedding tappet | Construction of tappet for
Plain weave | Conditions of good shedding
Shedding tappet: Tappet, Cam are the names given indiscriminately to those irregular pieces of
mechanism to which a rotary motion is given for the purpose of producing reciprocating motion
in the rod and levers for shedding.
Types: We can divide it as following two types-
1. Positive: These give both upward and downward movements to healds without the aid of
any additional mechanism. But pullers, stocks and bowls are based on compensating principles.
Lifting and lowering →Mechanically. Which are-
a) Wood crofts section tappet.
b) The oscillation tappet.
c) Nutralls chain tappet.
d) Scroll tappet.
2. Negative: These require the addition of pullers, stocks, and bowls, springs or dead
weights to reserve either pulls the head down or lifts it. Which are-
a) Ordinary plain tappet.
b) Jamiesons tappet.
c) The barrel tappet.
Position of fixing shedding tappet:
a) Over or under the centre of heald shaft.
b) Over or under one end of the heald shaft.
c) Outside of the loom frame.
Over or under the centre of heald shaft: When the device is placed over the centre of heald
shafts, then the oil, grease etc applied to tradle bowl for antifriction property may fall on the
fabric and contaminate it when placed under the heald shafts, some difficulties may arise while
cleaning.
Over or under one end of the heald shafts: When the device is placed over or under one end of
the heald shaft then pressure is applied at any one side of the heald shaft. Hence connecting cards
should be used on two sides.
Outside of the loom frame: In this system, it is easy to clear the tappets and to apply grease, oil to
tradle bowl and easy maintenance can be done. But it requires more space.
Construction of tappet for Plain weave:
To design a shedding tappet for plain weave, the following particulars have been taken into
consideration-
i. Lift if tappet-4”
ii. Distance from the centre of the driving shaft to the nearest point of
contact with the trade bowl-2”
iii. Dwell of tappet one third of pick.
iv. Diameter of the trade bawl-2”

At a radius of 2 inches the circle – A. This circle represents the distance from the centre of the
driving shaft to the nearest point of contact with the tradle bowl. For plain weave tappet, the
bottom shaft is used as a driving shaft. At a radius of 3 inches the circle – B and one inch is
added for the radius of tradle.
At a radius of 7 inches the circle –C. Four inch is added for lift of tappet. The circle represents
the centre of the tradle bowl, when the inner circle of it is acting upon the bowl. The circle ‘C’
represent the centre of the bowl when pressed down by the device. Divide each half circle into
three equal parts by lines FK and GH. Divide FH and GK each into six equal parts and divide the
space between the circles B and C into six unequal parts. To find out the six unequal parts,
describe a semi-circle L between B and C. Now divide its circumference into six equal parts and
then draw perpendicular line from them on the line GH. This gives six unequal divisions on the
lift to obtain the desired eccentric shape of the tappet. From the corner of these unequal spaces
and with the tradle bowl describes circles representing the position of the tradle bowl at different
parts or its movement. Now draw the curved lines touching the extremities of the tradle bowl.
This gives the outline of the plain tappet.
Conditions of good shedding:
i. A shed should be as small as the nature of the work to be done.
ii. Healds should be placed at right angles with the warp threads.
iii. Exact vertical movement of the heald shafts is required.
iv. Perfect leveling of the headl shaft.
v. The heald shafts must begin to move slowly.

Note on shedding mechanism of single lift single cylinder jacquard


Introduction:
Jacquard is a shedding device placed on the top of the loom to produce large figure patterns by
controlling a very large no. of warp threads separately by means of harness cords, hooks and
needles. Here no heald shaft is used. Jacquard may be controlled by pegged card, punched card,
punched tape etc. or by electrical means.
Construction:
Single Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard is the original and the simplest type of jacquard. It works on
bottom closed shed type of shedding mechanism. Here one set of knife with griffe controlled the
hooks. The hooks are controlled by needles of one cranked eye and every needle is selected one
hook in that pick. One neck cord with harness cord is controlled by this mechanism.
Mechanism:
During the cycle of operation one of the faces of the cylinder together with a card is
brought against the needle board. If a hole is punched in the card the corresponding needle will
project through in the cylinder. the hook controlled by that needle will remain is such a position
that its upper hooked end un punched will be caught by the raising knife. The un punched
position of the card will press back the needle & consequently the hook controlled by that will be
away from the path of the using knife. Thus the hook gets selection according to the design cut
for a particular card.
When the hooks are lifted by the knives the cylinder moves out a limited distance. A
catch holds it against the top corner of the cylinder. The cylinder is turned about its axis & new
card is presented to the needles during its next cycle.
By this time the griffe along with its knives descend to lower the warp threads to the bottom shed
line for a fresh warp threads to the bottom shed line for a fresh selection of the hook at the next
pick.
Conclusion:
By this mechanism we learn how jacquard mechanism work and how it produce decorate design
by using yarn individually. Moreover it is a very helpful and important practical for our textile
life.

Shedding Mechanism

A process of raising and lowering of warp yarns by harnesses to make an opening for the filling
(weft) yarn to pass through.
The raised and lowered form of warp yarns is called shed
Three types of shedding motions (opening) are available for different type of fabrics.
They are:
Tappet shedding
Dobby shedding
Jacquard shedding
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\Tappet Shedding
A tappet is given a rotary motion so that it depresses a follower and a lever, known respectively
as the anti-friction bowl and the treadle arrangement, by means of which the heald shaft is
operated.

Scope of Tappet Shedding


Tappet shedding uses tappets and cams to control the up/down movement of shafts.
The bulkiness of its mechanical movement limits the loom to control up to 8 shafts (repeat not
more than 8)
Therefore, tappet shedding is the simplest and least versatile shedding motion.
The design is restricted to plain weave, simple twill and simple sateen or satin weave.
Any design more than 8 shafts requires dobby loom.
Negative Tappet Shedding Mechanism
Construction
Figure shows a negative tappet shedding mechanism. A pair of tappets A and B is fixed to the
bottom shaft C at 180 degrees to each other. Two treadle levers D and E are connected to the
loom back-rail by a bracket F. The bracket acts as a fulcrum for the levers. The two treadles
have teeth to carry the lamb rods G and H respectively. Two heald shafts J and K are connected
to the lamb rods. A top reversing roller shaft Q carries two rollers of different diameters. The
roller of small diameter N is connected toleather strap L to which the front heald shaft J is
connected. The roller P of large diameter is connected to leather strap M to which the back
heald shaft K is connected. The tappets A and B touch the anti-friction bowls or followers R and
S respectively, which are fixed to the treadle levers.

Figure : Negative tappet shedding mechanism


The heald shafts have heald eyes T and U through which the war p threads pass X is the war p
sheet and Y is the cloth. The odd ends are passed through one heald shaft while the even ends
are passed through the other heald shaft.

Working Principle
When the bottom shaft is rotated in the clockwise direction as shown in the figure, the tappets
are also rotated. The tappet will depress the anti-friction bowl and the treadle. Being fulcrumed
at one end, the front portion of the treadle moves down. This action is transferred to the lamb
rod, the heald shaft and the leather strap. So one heald shaft is lowered and the threads
connected to this heald shaft are lowered and form the bottom layer of the shed.
Dwell
The leather straps attached to the reversing rollers are connected in opposite directions, i.e.
when leather strap is pulled down; it is unwound from its roller. The shaft therefore rotates in
the clockwise direction and the other leather strap is wound on to its roller. The heald shaft is
raised and therefore the lamb rod and treadle lever are also raised. The threads connected to
the heald shaft are also raised and form the top layer of the shed. For the next shed, the other
tappet works with the other set of bowl, treadle, lamb rod, heald shaft, strap and roller and the
other heald shaft is lowered. The first heald shaft is raised by the top reversing rollers, and the
positions of the healds shafts are thus interchanged. Thus, for one rotation of the bottom shaft,
two sheds are formed. In this type of tappet shedding therefore, one tappet depresses the
concerned treadle and the corresponding heald shaft is lowered. But the other heald shaft is
raised by means of the top reversing rollers. So this type of shedding mechanism is known as
“negative tappet shedding mechanism”

Timings and Setting:


1. Turn the crank to the top centre position.
2. Fix the anti-friction bowls to the treadle levers; they should move freely in the slots.
3. Fix the treadle levers with a bracket to the back rail of the loom.
4. Set the grid and grid bracket to the front rail of the loom in the slots of the grid.
5. Make sure that the tappet with the lower throw is fixed to the bottom shaft at the starting
handle side.
6. Fix the top reversing rollers to the top reversing roller shaft to be equidistant from the ends
and at the same time ensure that the connecting screws of the rollers are symmetrical about
the central axis of the shaft when the heald shafts are at the same level. The roller of smaller
diameter is always connected to front heald shaft.
7. The heald shafts are connected to the top reversing rollers by means of cords and leather
straps. The leather straps are connected to the rollers, such that when one of them winds on its
roller the other strap unwinds from its roller and vice versa.
8. Lamb rods are connected to the heald shafts by cords.
9. Adjust the tappets on the bottom shaft and make sure of the following points :
The tappet with a bigger throw should be connected to the back heald shaft.
The bowls should have perfect contact with the tappet surfaces.
The treadles should be at the same level and parallel to each other at the top centre position.
Heald shafts :
The hook of the lamb rod of the front heald shaft should be connected to the first notch of the
treadle lever while that of the back heald shaft should be connected to the third notch. If the
depth of shed is altered, the connections of the hooks to the treadle levers can be changed.

Points to be Observed
Turn the crank shaft through two revolutions and make sure that the bowls are always in
contact with the tappets.
The heald shafts should not touch the side frames or the sley.
Turn the crank shaft to the bottom centre and check the size of shed. The bottom line of warp
sheet or the heald eyes of the lowered heald shaft should have a clearance of 1 mm from the
race board and the top.
Positive Tappet Shedding Mechanism
Principle:
In this type of shedding, the heald shaft is raised and lowered by the tappet.

Construction
The tappet shaft carries another tappet which has a groove or track in which a bowl is
placed. The bowl is connected in turn to a tappet lever with link rods, links J and a heald shaft .
Each tappet is separately connected to a heald shaft through link rods and tappet lever. There
are two fulcrums for tappet lever and links
.
Working Principle:
When the tappet is rotated, the bowl is also rotated. According to the shape of the groove, the
bowl ismoved up or down or is still. If the bowl is moved up, the tappet lever moves to the right
through the links and the heald shaft is lowered. If the bowl is moved down, the tappet lever
moves to the left and the heald shaft is raised. Since the heald shaft is raised and lowered by
means of the mechanism, this tappet shedding is known as positive tappet shedding
mechanism. When the bowl stands still, the heald shaft is in the dwell stage.

Figure: Positive Tappet shedding


A positive shedding tappet, and the one most generally employed, is known as the Wood croft
tappet. This style of tappet is self-contained, and is now made in three different forms,
according to the class of fabric for which it is to be adopted. .The treadles are fulcrumed on the
shaft and are provided at with a knuckle, on which the antifriction pulley is pivoted. The pulleys
are specially tempered or made of steel in order to better resist the friction to which they are
subjected. The movement of this pulley and at the same time the treadle is determined by the
shape and the arrangement of the section plates i to 12. In this type of tappet only two
different section plates are used.
That shown at it is employed to raise the treadle; that is to depress the treadle. The pulley is
actuated by the projecting rims of metal cast on the side of the plates with which it is
in constant contact. The healds are connected to jack levers placed above and below the healds
; the levers extend outside the loom frame, and in turn are attached to the end of the treadle
by means of the connector. When the treadle is forced upwards by means of a section plate,
the heald shaft is drawn down, and vice versa, with the section plate.

These tappets are made to work with from 8 to 12 treadles, and can be constructed for weaves
containing up to 24 picks to the round. A tappet contains 12 sections or picks in one repeat. The
tappet shaft is supported in open bearings in the framework, and secured to this shaft the
tappet wheel, containing a number of teeth (in this 180) which is a multiple of the weaves for
which the tappet may be required. The wheel is also fitted width a number of standard bolt
holes, in order to accommodate section plates of different sizes, such asare required for
weaves containing a varying number of picks to the round.

Advantages and Disadvantages of Tappet Shedding:


Advantages:
It is robust, simple and cheap
It is capable of lifting a heavy weight with less wear and tear than other shedding mechanisms.
It can move heald shafts at great speeds.
It puts less strain upon the warp.
It consumes less power and gives greater output.
It requires less maintenance
Disadvantages:
If the weave is changed, it will be necessary to change the tappet and the change gear wheel in
the counter shaft arrangement. So work involved in changing the weave is more.
The capacity of a tappet to produce a pattern / weave is ver y much limited. A maximum of 8 or
10 tappets only can be used.
Faults that may occur in Tappet Shedding Mechanism:
If the tappet is faulty, it imparts a jerky movement to the heald shaft.
The tappet should always touch the bowls. Otherwise a severe blow is applied to the bowl and
the vibration is transmitted to the heald shaft. End breakages may occur a resultof this.
Over shedding: If the depth of a shed is too much, strain on the warp will be more and end
breakages may occur.
Under shedding: If the depth of shed is too low, the shuttle will not reach the other end and
may be trapped in the shed or may fly out. Hence end breakages will occur.
Uneven shedding: Uneven shedding is caused by lifting one end of the heald shafts more than
the other so the shuttle may move over some war p threads and fly out or get trapped in the
shed.
If the shedding is mistimed, then other motions like picking and beat-up cannot be done
smoothly and end breakages may occur.
Comments:
Tappet shedding mechanisms produce the shed by using the reciprocating motion of
the tappet. Some faults are involved in this mechanism. If this Faults are removed we can
get the good result from the tappet shedding mechanism.

Dobby Shedding
This is a compact, electronically guided shedding motion and capable of having up to 28 shafts.
More complex and versatile shedding motion. A dobby loom, therefore, can have up to 28
shafts, and much greater weave repeat is possible. Design may be woven with two or more
basic weaves and their variation. Such fabrics may be referred as dobby cloths or dobby weave,
towels usually show geometric designs when pattern is provided by dobby.

Scope of Dobby:
It can produce more complex design.
Theoretically it can control maximum 48 heald frame but practically 36.
For cotton yarn it can control maximum 48 heald frame.
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\Production is less than
tappet.
Principle of Negative Dobby Shedding:
In this type of shed, lowering of the heald frame occurred mechanically.

Construction:\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
In the negative shedding the heald frames are operated by the jack & lever. The levers are
connected with the knife and the knifes are attached with the driving rod by means of
connecting needle. A pattern is used here according to the weave plan. When the teeth of
chain is come to the contact of chain drum then whole the arrangement moves together and
lowering of the heald frame is occurred by the spring.

Figure: Negative dobby shedding


Working Principle:
The lowering of the heald frame is happens here by spring or jack lever. When the pattern
cylinder doesn’t find peg on the pattern drum then bauck lever and jack lever bring the heald
frame in downward direction, therefore the the lowering of the heald frame is occurred by
means of spring tension.

Advantages of Negative Dobby:


Highly complex and critical fabrics can be weaved.
At a time it can control many heald frame
More faster than the positive dobby as well as over conventional loom
Can produce close bottom shed
Disadvantages of Negative Dobby:
In this shed only lowering of the shed is possible
Due to more stress, yarn breakages more
It is not good for heavier fabric
It does not provide more high speed to the loom
Positive Dobby Shedding
Principles of positive dobby
In this type of shed lifting & lowering of the heald frame both is possible. lifting is occurred by
means of jack & lever, and lowering is occurred by means of spring under tension.

Construction and Working Principle:


Positive dobby shedding is the combination of three Cylinders, jack lever, spring and a shaft.
Between the three cylinders a shaft is fulcrum in one side the upper cylinder moves as the anti
clockwise and lower cylinder moves as the clock wise direction. The main cylinder when get
motion from the shaft when it found peg or pattern plan then the cylinder attached with the
upper half toothed disc. So that the heald frame is up,& when the pattern cylinder doesn’t
found peg then the main cylinder attached with the lower half toothed disc and the spring
retains the heald frame to the downward direction.

Jacquard Shedding:
To provide with unlimited design width, jacquard shedding is needed. This shedding motion has
no shafts, instead, a hardness consisting of as many cords as there are ends in the warp sheet
connects each end individually to the jacquard machine. Each warp could weave independently
of all others. Complex and most versatile shedding motion. Biggest weave is possible with
jacquard shedding as each warp yarn may be individually controlled.

Figure: Jacquard loom with punch card


Scope of Jacquard Shedding:
No heald frame is used
Harness is used to lift & lower the warp thread
One warp thread for each harness
Most complex design is produced
Maximum no. of warp yarn it can control.
Jacquard Shedding Process
A Jacquard attachment has blades, hooks, needles, a griffe, griffe hooks, and a
perforated cylinder. The warp strands, drawn through the heddle eyes, are tied to the loom
by harness cords, which are threaded through a comber board for even distribution over
the width of the loom. The blades set in a blade frame, move up and down. The hooks that are
near the blades are engaged by them and lifted up, and the warp strands are also lifted by the
griffe hooks and harness cords to form the upper part of the shed (the warp yarn in the fabric).
Hooks that are out of reach of the blades drop, together with the griffe. The hooks and the
warp strands drop because they are attached to weights. The lowered strands of the warp yarn
form the lower part of the shed (the woof yarn in the fabric). The hooks coming from the area
of the blades’ action are drawn out by needles activated by the cylinder, which in turn has a
rocking and rotating motion. A piece of cardboard consisting of individual paper cards is placed
on the cylinder. These cards have perforations, and when a needle comes to a perforation it
enters the cylinder and the hook stays near the blade, but when a needle does not meet a
perforation it is pushed back andthe hook is kept away from the knife. By combining perforated
and un perforated places on the cards it is possible to exercise complete control over the raising
and lowering of warp strands and to form a design on the fabric.

Figure: Jacquard shedding mechanism


Advantages of Jacquard Shedding

Jacquard shedding mechanisms are capable of producing large and intricate weave designs that
are beyond the scope of dobby shedding mechanisms.
In jacquard weaving, it is possible to control every warp yarn individually.
Many specialized types of jacquard machine have been developed for weaving particular kinds
of fabric, such as terry towels, damasks, and carpets.
Most of the rest are general purpose types that are comparatively easy to classify.
Suggestions:
Jacquard Shedding mechanism is very useful for producing designed fabric. Some of the
disadvantages hampered the shedding. We have to ensured the fault free shedding process in
jacquard shedding mechanism.
Conclusion:
The shedding process is done by some special device. Each Device is maintain the separate
mechanism to produce shed.

Dobby Shedding | Dobby Shedding Mechanism


Experiment name: Study on Dobby shedding mechanism.

Objectives:

To know about the different parts formed this shedding.


2. To learn the mechanism of dobby shedding.
Introduction:
Dobby is a shedding mechanism placed on the top of the loom in order to produce figured
patterns by using large number of healds than the capacity of a tappet. Dobby is also known as
a “witch or “wizard”.

Scope of a dobby:
The scope of dobby is limited between a tappet and a jacquard. The number of shafts that can
be actuated by a dobby varies between 6 and 40. Theoretically dobby can control 48 shafts
(maximum). However, practically it can control 36 shafts in case of wool and allied fibres. Again,
for cotton and allied fibers, it can control maximum 24 heald shafts. In these case healds are
operated by jacks and levers.

Main parts:

Bottom shaft
L-lever
Upright shaft
T-lever
Upper draw knife
Lower draw knife
Upper hook
Lower hook
S-lever
Bulk lever
Thumb lever
Jack lever
Healdshaft

Returning spring
Motor
Crank shaft
Pattern cylinder
Pattern chain
Dobby shedding mechanism:
Here a climax dobby is described to explain the dobby shedding mechanism. Climax dobby is a
double lift double jack-lever negative dobby. Here two jack levers are operated by a single bulk
lever. They are joined with the bulk lever by a timber lever and a link. The double lever is
fulcrum med at a point and is connected with S-lever.

Dobby shedding mechanism


The S-lever controls two hooks, one upper hook and one lower hook. The hooks are controlled
by feelers. One hook is controlled by hooked feeler and other by a connecting needle. The two
hooks control two knives that are joined with a T-lever.

The T-lever is fulcrum med and is controlled by an upright shaft and an L-lever. They get motion
from motor and machine pulley. When the feeler comes in contact with a peg and when it is
not in the contact it goes down.

Conclusion:
Dobby loom is important for its use. We can use 8-12 heald frame in tappet loom but if we
want to use more heald frame for more decorative design then we should use dobby loom. This
practical helps me to know about the dobby loom and its mechanism. I think this will help me in
my future life.

Difference of Tappet, Dobby & Jacquard shedding mechanism


Towels, Weaving August 7, 2012 Leave a comment
Topic Tappet shedding Dobby shedding Jacquard shedding
Design Elaborate i.e. very
capacity Simplest structure. Medium i.e. complex structure. complex structure.
Theoretically it can
Maximum no. of heald Theoretically it can control control any no. of
No. of heald shaft – 14 . maximum 48, but practically warp thread
shaft Theoretically it can for wool no. of heald shaft -36 individually.
control 6-10 heald & for cotton no. of heald shaft -
shaft. 24.
Speed of
loom Very high. High. Slow.
Driver
position of
heald shaft Below the loom. Above the loom. Above the loom.
For different designs, different For different designs,
For different designs design of pegging legs are different designed
different tappets are placed on cylinder/pattern pinched cards are
Design fitted to bottom shaft. drum. places on cylinder.
Cost of fabric Low fabric cost. Expansive. Highly expensive.
Production
rate More than the dobby. Less production. Less production.

Loom Motion:
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving.
The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. In order to interlace
warp and weft threads to produce a fabric, the following motions are necessary on any type of
loom. Shedding, Picking, Beating, Let-off, Take-up are weaving loom motions.

The motions and their function on weaving machines or looms are as follows:-

1. Primary Motions.-

Shedding. - To separate the warp thread into layers one layer is raised and the other lowered.
Picking. - To insert a weft thread across the warp Ends through the shed.
Beating-in. - To push the weft thread that has been inserted across the war ends, up to the
cloth fell.
Primary Motions of Weaving

2. Secondary motions.-
Take-up motion –The system has the following controls:-

Tension control—The servomotor controls the warp yarn tension and slack according to the
signa collected by the tension sensor. This process ensures that the warp yarn’s tension is
controlled properly during opening, warp loosening, and warp let-off.

Manual warp yarn loosening and tightening—When the machine is not operating, the user can
manually tighten or loosen the warp by controlling the servomotor’s forward and reverse
rotator.

Fabric take-up control—This function pulls the finished cloth away from the opening in time as
required by the weft density so that the position of the opening does not vary with the new
weft- yarn, ensuring successful production.
A→ ETU GEAR BOX
B→GEAR
C→ FRICTION GEAR
D→ COMPOUND GEAR
E→ SPUR GEAR
F→ DRIVE GEAR
G→ PRESS ROLL

To pull the cloth forward after the beat-up of weft, maintaining the same pick density and
spacing throughout weaving of a cloth and throughout winding the woven cloth onto a roller.
Loom motion
Let-off. - To allow the warp to unwind from the warp beam during weaving and also to
maintain an average constant tension of warp as it weaves down.

Let-off
3. Auxiliary motion.-
In order to produce a good quality of cloth and to prevent damages it is necessary to have some
stop motion provided on the loom. They can be termed as auxiliary motions.

Warp protector. - To protect the warp thread by stopping the loom when the weft fails to
reach, and box properly into either the winder during picking.

Warp stop.- To stop the loom when a warp thread breaks or excessively loose.
The operating system is the following .:-

Each warp thread is passed into the bottom slit of a metallic drop wire 2,
Which this way is supported by the thread under tension. Through the top slit of the drop wire
passes the contact rail 3 composed of an u-shaped outside coating in stainless steel, of a strip of
insulating material and of a flat conductive inside blade in nickel-plated copper, Provided on the
upper part with a toothing.
The contact rail 3 is part of a low voltage electric circuit, of which the drop wire 2 acts as circuit
Breaker.

Warp stop
Weft stop.- To stop the loomwhen a weft breaks or the weft runs out of the weft package.

Weft stop
In the case of air jet machines for staple yarn weaving, an optoelectronic weft stops motion in
twin arrangement can be delivered. While the first of the two weft stop motions serves as
support for the machine control, the second one records the weft threads broken in the shed or
expelled.
When the first one gets the weft, which means the weft thread has travelled the
predetermined distance, the loom remains running. And in case of the second one gets the
weft, which means the weft thread has broken and travelled excess than the predetermined
distance, it knocks-off the loom instantly.

Weft ditection sensors

Picking means inserting a weft thread across the warp through


during weaving. Picking is the second primary motion in weaving.
Over Pick: When picking arm position is situated above the shuttle box then it is
called over pick.
Under Pick: When picking arm position is situated under the shuttle box then it is
called under pick.
Difference between over pick and under pick:
Over Pick Under Pick
1. Arm position is above the shuttle box. 1. Arm position is below the shuttle box.
2. Higher loom speed. 2. Lower loom speed.
3. Less power required. 3. More power required.
4. Works more smoothly. 4. Works less smoothly.
5. Less clean mechanism. 5. More clean mechanism.
6. Less direct action. 6. More direct action.
7. Comparatively gentle in picking 7. Comparatively harsh in picking action.
action.
8. Less wear and tear. 8. More wear and tear.

Picking | Over Picking Mechanism | How to Increase PPM


Experiment name: Study on over picking mechanism.

Introduction:
Picking is the second primary motion in weaving. The action of inserting weft yarn through the
warp yarns is called picking.

The functions of picking mechanism are:


To deliver the shuttle along the correct flight length.
To throw the shuttle at a predetermined speed.
Main Parts:

Over picking
Picking arm
Picking strap
Picker
Bottom shaft
Picking spindle
Shuttle
Picking cam
Vertical shaft
Cone
Bowl
Angular
Crank shaft
Features of Over Picking Mechanism:
Picking arm is over shuttle.
Suitable for narrow loom.
Higher picks per minute.
Less power required.
Works more smoothly.
Shortening the picking strap and changing the shape of the cam can increase picking force.
Mechanism of Over Picking:
Over picking mechanism is used on cotton and jute loom. It is robust and easy to adjust and
maintain. The spindle is situated over the shuttle box and is essential to guide the shuttle along
the correct path. It is normally set slightly up and slightly towards the front of the loom and its
inner end.

The back end of the shuttle will thus receive a similar lift at the end of the stroke, so that its
leading end will receive correct delivery down and into the shed. A flexible leather-picking strap
is used to control the picker, which has tendency to stretched slowly in use, and vary with
regard to its elastic property.

The cone over pick motion consists a vertical shaft placed either inside or outside the loom
framing. The shaft serves as fulcrum of the picking arm, it is held against the loom frame. There
is a spiral spring at the picking shaft, which causes the picking arm and picker to move back
after the delivery of the pick.

At the two end of the bottom shaft, two picking cams are fixed. In revolving its nose the tappet
strikes the cone shaped ant frictional roller strut, positively rotates the shaft and causes the
pick to move inward with sufficient velocity to drive the shuttle across the loom. The timing of
the picker begins to move can be attend by turning the picking tappet on its boss.

How to Increase PPM:

By increasing motor speed.


By setting the cone stud nearer to the picking tappet.
By decreasing the picking strap.
By altering the position of picking arm towards the centre of the loom.
By decreasing the length of the stroke of picking tappet.
Uses:
This is used for narrow and fast running looms, weaving light and medium weight fabrics and
for many narrow and wide looms for weaving heavy fabrics.

Conclusion:
The over picking motion is negative one; the exact amount of power is required to drive a
shuttle. By this experiment we learned about the over picking mechanism and how it works.
This experience will help us in our future practical life.

Study on Under Picking Mechanism


Experiment name: Study on under picking mechanism.

Introduction:
Picking is the second primary motion in weaving. The action of inserting weft yarn through the
warp yarns is called picking.

The functions of picking mechanism are:

To deliver the shuttle along the correct flight length.


To throw the shuttle at a predetermined speed.
Main parts:

Fig: Under picking mechanism


Picking arm
Picker
Picking cam
Picking bowl
Race board 6.Shuttle
Bottom shaft
Treadle lever
Angular lever
Crank shaft
Features of under picking mechanism:

Picker arm is placed under the race board.


Suitable for wider loom.
Under picking works less smoothly.
More direct action.
Rough in action.
More clean mechanism.
Consumes more power.
Used for heavy weight fabrics in silk and rayon looms.
Under picking mechanism:
In under picking mechanism a race board is situated over picking arm. Under picking is
controlled by picking cam which is fixed on the bottom shaft. At first the motion comes from
motor and m/c pulley.

Then the motion comes in to the bottom shaft and thus picking cam. When picking cam rotates
and its nose portion comes in contact with treadle lever and pushes it then the treadle lever
pushes the angular lever. The picking arm gets motion from angular lever which is connected
with picking arm.

A picker is placed in the picking arm which pushes the shuttle. When shuttle gets motion by
picking arm then shuttle begins to move to and fro on the race board. Thus picking is done.

A spring is situated which causes the picking arm and picker to move back after the delivery of
the pick. At the two end of bottom shaft, two picking tappets are fixed. By increasing nose
length picking speed may be increased.

How to increase PPM:

By increasing motor seed.


By increasing the nose shape of picking tappet.
By decreasing the length of picking arm.
Uses:
This mechanism is used in all non-automatic cotton looms. It is also used in jute looms.

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