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Loom is a very necessary part for weaving. Loom is a machine or device which is used for
producing woven fabric. Loom are driven by two ways. These are manual system and automatic
system.
Primary motion
Secondary motion
Tertiary motion
Primary motion
Primary motion has three types. They are:
A. Shedding:- The process of making shed is called shedding.it is the process of separating the
warp yarn into two layers to form a tunnel which is called shed, is known as shedding.
B. Picking:- The method of passing the weft threads traversely through warp yarn is called
picking.
C. Beat up:- The process in which yarns are sent to the fell of the cloth is called beat up.
Secondary motion
Secondary motion is in two types:
Take up motion
Let off motion
Tertiary motion
Tertiary motion is not necessary for fabric production. The tertiary motions are:
Warp stop motion.
Weft stop motion.
Reed stop motion.
Loom motion controls the fabric production.by using these motion weavers can produce
different types of fabrics.
2. Heald shaft:
It is also known as harness.the wood or metal frame that holds the heddles in a certain position
in the loom is called harness. Number of harness available in loom usually more than one.
3.Shuttle:
This is used for the interlacement of the warp & weft yarns.
4. Shuttle box:
It is a box which is used to retain the shuttle in the picking motion.
5. Picker:
It is placed in the shuttle box. It may be formed by leather or other metals.
6. Beams:
It is a cylindrical body in which the multiple warp ends is used in such way that permits the
removal of yarns as a warp sheet.
7. Front rest:
It is a fixed roller placed in front of the loom.it is situated above the cloth beam & work as a
guide for the cloth to wind.
8. Lease rods:
The division of warp yarns into one & one, two & two etc is termed as lease. The two rods
passed between the two divisions of warp yarns.those are called lease rods.
9. Slay:
Slay contains the reed.
10. Reed:
It is generally comb which is used to separate yarns.it also beats up the yarns in weaving
process.
11. Treadle:
The treadle is a paddle or lever placed under a loom.here a thread is connected with the help of
cords.
12. Temple:
It is the roller device on a loom that hold the cloth at a proper width.
Introduction:
In the textile sector present time is the time of modern & new era. Man has invented a lot of
modernloom using with modern weft insertion system. So the comparison of conventional
loom & modern loom indicates how much the conventional loom is modified within the passing
of time.
Hand Loom:
It is still not certain when the weaving process was introduced to human society. It is clear from
many historical records that weaving originated long before the time of Jesus Christ. In England
the major shift from agriculture to woolen industry came in the 14th century.
Earlier version of power loom was run by two men. After the steam engine and cast iron in
early 1800, great attention was paid to increasing productivity of the machine. To help achieve
the increase in productivity, William Radeliffe patented a dressing frame in 1803 for sizing and
drying the warp threads prior to winding on to a weavers beam.
Projectile Loom:
Sulzer brothers, Winterthur, Switzerland, Who are pioneer in the field of projectile method of
weft insertion, have been able to convert a brilliant concept Roshman into a viable commercial
weaving machine. It is introduced in the market in 1953.The main feature of this machine is
weft insertion system. A bullet like shuttle 90 mm long & weighting about 40 g, technically
named as gripper projectile is used here to insert the weft thread into the warp threads.
2. It is possible to achieve weaving performances with breakage rate per square meter of cloth.
50% of the number of breaks that would occur on a conventional loom.
3. The lower warp breakage rate in a projectile weaving machine may be due to:
Smaller warp shed
Reed with higher ratio of air to wire (70:30)
Beat up line being nearer to the centre of the reed between the two baulks.
Smaller warp shed will reduce the warp threads tension to some extent. However care should
be taken to maintain uniform tension to ensure that the warp shed is of same depth from one
end to another. Otherwise a few slack warp threads at the top shed will result in stitching and
end cut of the projectile.
4. Since the projectile is passing through guides there is no reed to projectile or projectile to
yarn contact.
5. With the introduction of four/six colors weaving machine all the mechanical problems of the
conventional pick & pick multicolored loom are eliminated.
Suggestions:
The main feature of projectile loom is inserting the weft thread by projection method. If the
fault from the machine can be reduced then it will have the more weaving speed.
Rapier Loom:
Insertion of weft by rapier is a mechanically modern & refined version of the primitive method
of fabric production in which the weft was secured in a slot of a stick. At present version of the
gripper head which are attached to rapiers which are flexible tapes or rigid rods. Mr. John
Gabler can be regarded as the father of modern rapier technology he has built a rapier device
on a cotton weaving machine in 1922.
Scope of Rapier:.
Single rapier loom can insert weft only on alternate rapier traverse.
In many cases this is modified to achieve a higher rapier velocity in the early and late parts of
the movement and thus a over maximum velocity halfway through the movement.
Due to high rate of insertion the possibility of yarn breakages rate may increase.
Additionally, it is necessary to control the weft by passing it trough an effective tension
arrangement so that the weaving tension will be more uniform, this can also occurred weft
break.
Features of Rapier Loom:
An useful feature of rigid rapiers is that they can be simultaneously inserted in two sheds one
above the other, for producing double plush and certain carpets.
Rapier loom may have various types according to the weft insertion mechanism & number of
pick such as insertion of double pick, insertion of single pick, two phase rapier etc.
In all rapier looms to-and-fro-movement of the rapiers is derived initially either from a linkage
mechanism or from a cam. The use of linkage mechanism has the advantages of simplicity
reliability & is cheap, quite and consumers less energy than a cam mechanism but it does not
provide any dwell to the rapiers.
The only two phase rapier in commercial operation is the saurer of width 2 x 185 cm or 2 x 220
cm having weft insertion rate is about 1200 mpm.
The rigid rapier is driven from the centre and has a rapier head at each end.In one cycle of 360
degree the rapier inserts one pick alternately in the right hand and the left hand fabrics, the
picks being inserted and beaten up in opposite phase .
In gabler system of weft insertion the rapier system is combined with air jet picking system.
Gabler system rapier may be single sided or double sided. The machine include on gabler
system Draper DSL,Gusken etc.Those operating on dewas system include dornier, picanol, Novo
pignon SACM, Gunne, Smit, Sommet, Sulzer-Ruti etc.
Rapier Loom
Integrating the features of rapier looms of Model SJ758 and other imported and domestic
rapier looms, Model SJ736-III rapier loom is specially designed for weaving of light, medium and
heavy fabrics and check designs, it adopts automatic pick finder and electronic color selector.
Control panel:
The loom is controlled by the control panel with a micro-computer, the lcd display provides a
very user-friendly human-machine interface, which shows the production statistic data of each
shift and provides the weft color programming function.
Wefting:
Wefting mechanism adopts 6-lever wefting structure and can ensure the adjustment of the
rapier entry and exit time and ensure stable wefting and insertion motion. This machine adopts
4 levers, short connectors and short sley to complete the beating motion, the rock shaft adopts
110mm(diameter) seamless tube to ensure the beating strength and can be suitable for high-
speed motion and weaving of heavy and high density fabrics. The rapier transmission box
adopts the advanced helix umbrella gearsto ensure stable transmission. The tension device
adopts 3-rear-beam tension structure, which is specially designed for balancing the warp
tension of high-density weaving and can improve the quality of the weaving fabrics.
The adoption of two pressing rollers on the fabric winding roller enables the worker to unload
the fabric from the fabric roller without stop. The frequent adoption of bearings for the major
moving parts provides better performance and easier maintenance.
Suggestions:
Some of the disadvantages of rapier loom if may reduced then this machine will be more
effective for weaving.
The rapier loom doesn’t require dynamic forces or anything like the magnitude as those
involved in the conventional loom.
The weft insertion rate in a rapier loom is very much influenced by the method of weft control.
Weft insertion rate is very high rather than any conventional loom
It can occur double pick at a time by double picking insertion system. Here is no need to cut the
weft selvedges and no weft wastage.
Weft insertion rate is very high rather than any conventional loom Rigid rapiers has a useful
features that they can be simultaneously inserted in two sheds one above the other ,for
producing double plush and certain carpets.
Looms that use rigid rapiers eliminate entirely the need to assist the rapier head through the
warp shed, this is a un doubted advantages.
Air Jet Loom:
Weft insertion by means of air jet has made a major breakthrough in the early 70s and its
importance is increasing further because of its ability to weave a wide range of fabrics at a very
high speed weft insertion rate of about 2000 mpm. The first attempt to use a compressed air
steam instead of shuttle is made by Brooks in 1914.
Air jet weaving machine is high speed machine having good quality
For instance on a weaving machine having a speed of 600 rpm the weaving cycle is 100m/s.
Cam control valves have the advantages of high speed precision of action whilst the electrically
controlled solenoid valves permit easy setting.
Finer count of yarn is used as the weft thread to produce fency type of fabric.
The water jet loom demonstrated at ITMA ASIA 2005 as a concept model now has debuted as
the “ZW8100.” The new model “ZW8100” inherited the basic abilities of the “ZW series” that
has enjoyed an excellent reputation as the global standard water jet loom and has enhanced
stability at high speed. The ZW8100 intends to succeed and advance the long-cultivated basic
abilities of water jet looms – weaving technology, high- speed ability, quality, and energy-saving
– for the next hundred years.
Tsudakoma consistently emphasises the basic abilities: high speed, quality, versatility, eco-
friendliness. Tsudakoma particularly focuses on ultra high speed ability - the mission of all jet
looms. Because it considers ultra high speed as the base, Tsudakoma has optimised the frame
structure, the beating system and the shedding system, and employs a newly-developed nozzle.
A navigation system that enjoys a good reputation for air jet looms is also employed while
taking careful note on higher versatility and better operability. To give the best answer to reply
to market demands, fulfilling basic abilities is indispensable. Flexibility to woven material is also
increased. True user-friendliness is attained.
The ZAX9100 is well-established for its ultra-high speed ability. The “ZAX9100HD” is a package
model that can weave heavy fabrics at high speed while keeping quality high with enhanced
basic abilities and new technology. Tsudakoma’s unique heavy-duty structure responds to
user’s strict quality demands. The exhibit demonstrated weaving quality yarn-dyed shirting at
high speed.
The ZAX9100 is ranked as a premium air jet loom provided with the “Weave
Navigation System.” It handles diverse responsibilities, such as being cost-competitive, quick
style change, value-added fabrics, and developing new fabrics that will be required more
than ever. The ESS Electronic Shedding System, 6-colour weft selection, and the PSC
support weaving value-added fabrics of various kinds and thickness wefts. The
PSC Programmable Speed Control controls the rpm per one pick according to weft kinds
and fabric weaves in order to attain stable weaving, thus the operation efficiency
is considerably increased. Fabrics formerly limited to rapier looms are woven easily keeping
quality.
Tsudakoma has the largest air jet terry weaving experience in the world. Many terry weavers
consider Tsudakoma’s air jet looms the standard. While fusing the ultra-high speed ability of
the ZAX9100 with its abundant terry weaving know-how, various elaborately designed towels
such as pileheight changes and pile-cycle switching between 3 to 7-picks can be woven with a
pleasant texture. In combination with the electronic Jacquard motion higher value-added terry
cloth can be woven.
The “Versa-Terry System” is the integration of Tsudakoma’s terry weaving technology. Various
systems that Tsudakoma developed especially for terry are enhanced and new technology for
weaving diversified terry cloth designs is employed. The “Versa-Terry System” inherits and
advances the thorough experience of the world’s largest record of air-jet terry weaving
machines. Improving all of its basic abilities: speed, versatility, quality, energy saving,
operability, the ZAX9100-Terry realizes true user-friendliness.
Excellent Maneuverability
No hull vibration, no torque effect and no high speed cavitations gives maximum comfort levels
on board
Low underwater acoustic signature
Total Safety
No exposed propeller for complete safety around people in the water and marine life
Maximum Engine Life
Multiphase Loom:
The phase number of a loom is defined as the average number of shuttles or weft
carriers inserting weft simultaneously. It is shown that existing multi-phase looms must have
high phase numbers to compensate for their low shuttle velocity. The analysis suggests
that looms with high-velocity flying shuttles would achieve equally high weft-insertion
rates with moderate increases in the phase number. Such moderate increases in the
phase number can be obtained by dividing the shedding and beat-up motions into
a comparatively small number of sections. The suggested alternative would avoid many ofthe
textile and engineering problems arising in existing multi-phase looms.
Figure: Multiphase loom
Features of Multiphase Loom:
A multi-phase loom with magnetic shuttle features that the spiral reed blade with shuttle path
is used for beating-up.
The linear motor is used for wefting, the heald wheel or electromagnetically excited heald
needle is used for opening, and the weft opening with off-line multi-path asynchronous weft
replenishing is used.
Its advantages include high efficiency, high speed and low weaving cost.
The multiphase loom can form many different sheds at different places, thereby enabling
insertion of number of filling yarns, one behind the other.
Advantages of Multiphase Loom Over Conventional Loom:
An analysis of the factors determining the weft-insertion rate of weaving machines shows that
these factors are essentially the same on all looms in which shuttles or weft carriers are used,
such as conventional shuttle looms, gripper- shuttle looms, and multi-phase looms.
Its advantages include high efficiency, high speed and low weaving cost.
The multiphase loom can form many different sheds at different places, thereby enabling
insertion of number of filling yarns, one behind the other.
Suggestions:
The multiphase loom is the modern invention of the new era. For the excellent loom speed and
weaving speed it is now very popular to the many industrialists. But here in Bangladesh the
multiphase loom are not available in every factory due to its higher cost. We think in
Bangladesh if this machine being available then many weavers will get the real benefit of the
multiphase machine.
Comments:
The features of the Modern loom versus conventional loom indicate the main advantages of
the modern loom. The difference between the shedding stop motion and driving mechanism is
mainly described in this paper. We think the creating activities of this assignment will help us in
our practical life to get our higher education.
Introduction:
Loom is a machine which used to form woven fabric. A loom contains different parts. Every part
has individual function. There I discuses the function different parts of loom with figure.
Warp Beam:
The warp beam, which holds the warp yarns, is located at the back of the machine and is
controlled so that it releases warp yarns to the weaving area of the loom as needed. This beam
is produced by warping.
Figure : Shuttle
Reed:
This is inevitably a combination made up of steel wire rods set vertically in a frame. The spaces
between the wires are known as splits or dents and are kept even and parallel. This is the first
function of reed. Its second function is to feed the filling thread into position. To do this it has
to move in a back and forth motion. It attach the pick with fell of the cloth .
Figure: Reed
Cloth Roller:
The cloth beam, which holds the fabrics , is located at the front of the machine . The produced
fabric are wind on this beam by take up motion.
Figure: Temple
Lease Rod:
Another guiding device it is for the warp yarns. These are two sorts of wooden or glass rods set
between the whip rolls and the heddles. Alternating warp threads can be kept separate by
passing over and under these rods.
The angle which is formed by the raising threads with the threads remaining in low position is
called shed; the shed must be as wide open as to permit the easy passage of the weft insertion
element.
The shed can be obtained in two different ways:
by moving the heald frames, the healds of which are crossed by the warp threads according to a
pre-established drawing-in;
by moving directly the healds through which one or several independent threads pass (figured or
Jacquard weaving).
The machines used to form the shed are cam machines, dobbies, and Jacquard machines.
Cam shedding or base weave machines
This kind of machine is employed for all fabrics produced with base weaves which have a
pattern
a repeat of 10-12 threads and maximum 6-8 wefts.
These machines can operate either with positive or negative shaft motion. The principle of
positive
motion involves that the shafts are raised as well as lowered driven by cams. The negative
motion
instead implies the motion of the shafts either in the upwards stroke or in the downwards stroke,
while the backward movement is obtained through springs. The positive shaft motion has a
conjugated structure which permits to control the shaft during all processing phases and to
minimize vibrations, thus making cams suitable for any working load at high speeds.
Operation of a cam machine (positive motion)
This machine has conjugated cams fastened on a central shaft; the two profiles are read by
small wheels mounted idle on a roller lever connected at its end with the heald frame rods.
The two cams are mutually complementary so that when a cam presents its maximum
eccentricity, the other cam presents the minimum eccentricity. This characteristic permits to push
upwards the right wheel and at the same time to produce the same movement with the left wheel
but in the opposite direction.
1. driving shaft 2.
toothed bevel gear pairs 3. group of conjugated cams 4. pin on which roller levers are set up.
The displacement of the roller lever causes the raising of the shaft.
In the case of balanced weaves, i.e. plain weave, twill weave, diagonal 2/2, the two cams are
identical, but have each towards the other a phase angle which is established already during
their construction.
For the production of the remaining weaves, the overturning of the two cams permits to obtain
the opposite effect, e.g. changing over from warp to weft twill.
The cam units are as many as the working heald frames and the shaft modifies its running speed
according to the weave to be produced, consequently, he speed corresponds to the revolution
number of the machine/n and the figure 360/n shows the angle at which a weft of the repeat is
inserted (n corresponds to the number of repeat wefts).
Dobbies
Dobbies are used for the production of plain or flat fabrics, that is of fabrics characterized by
maximum 28-32 threads in the weave repeat.
Dobbies can be divided into:
According to the working principle:
Hattersley dobbies
rotary dobbies
The Hattersley dobbies are dobbies which control the movement of the heald frames through
rods and rocker levers. The rotary dobbies attain the raising and lowering of the heald frame
through rotating members.
According to the raising motion of the heald frames:
dobbies with positive drive
dobbies with negative drive
According to the card reading system:
dobbies with endless pattern card
dobbies with magnetic card
Jacquard machines
The name Jacquard machines originates from the designer who improved its operation; today
the name ″Jacquard″ is used to identify all machines with a capacity higher than 28-32 threads,
which are therefore used to produce figured fabrics.
The indication of the capacity of the machine, which in the past was used to differentiate the
various machine models, has today no significance, as the hook number is no more strictly
related to the mechanical structure of the machine.
Jacquard machines were initially classified as follows:
Jacquard machines
Vincenzi machines
Verdol machines
At present only Verdol machines and electronic Jacquard machines are still on the market.
Jacquard machines can be classified as follows:
According to card reading system:
dobbies with endless pattern card reading system
dobbies with electronic reading system
Electronic Jacquard
In these machines the traditional hooks have been replaced by electro-mechanically operated
modules which are driven and controlled by an electronic program. The Jacquard machines
available
on the market are double lift machines and have in respect to mechanical Jacquard machines
following advantages:
Pure sizing: when the size pick up % is about 3 – 10 % it is called pure sizing.
Light sizing: when the size pick up % is about 11 -16% it is called light sizing.
Medium sizing: when the size pick up % is about 17 – 40 % it is called medium sizing.
Heavy sizing: when the size pick up % is above 40 % then it is called heavy sizing.
Disadvantages of Sizing:
Giving a sized film on the circumference of the yarn body (protection of the yarn).
Making thin places stronger.
Making thick places (with a relatively low twist) stronger.
To reduce electrostatic formation for synthetic or blended yarns.
Benefits of Sizing
It prevents the warp yarn breakage due to abrasion with neighboring yarns or with backrest,
heald eye and reed.
It improves the yarn strength by 10 to 20%, although it is not the primary objective of sizing
process.
Characteristics of Sized Yarn expected by management
Higher strength
Lower elongation loss
Higher bending rigidity
Higher abrasion resistance
Lower hairiness
Lower frictional resistance
Creep factor affecting elongation and elasticity of yarns
The performance of the yarn in weaving improves as the size add-on increases. The optimum
add-on level is marked by a very low level of warp breakage rate. However, if the size add-on is
higher than the optimum level then warp breakage rate increases again largely due to the loss of
elongation and increase in bending rigidity of the yarns.
Ease of preparation
Uniform viscosity
Absence of prolonged congealing and kenning at application temperature
pH control
Absence of foaming properties
Absence of prolonged tackiness
Compatibility with other components of the size
Stability towards decomposition
Ease of desizing
Size Ingredients and their functions
Adhesive: Example: maize, wheat, corn, potato, ferina, sago, PVC, PVA, CMC
Function: It increases yarn strength and abrasion resistance
Lubricant: Example: mineral oil, linseed oil, tallow, Japan was, cotton oil
Function: Increases yarn smoothness and elasticity
The optimum level of size add-on will depend on the following factors:
Type of fiber
Type of size materials
Yarn spinning technology
Yarn count and twist
Level of hairiness in the yarn
Loom type and loom speed
Although add-on primarily influences the weaving performance, it is possible to have different
weaving performances even at the same level of size add-on. This can happen due to differences
in (a) Size penetration and (b) Size coating or encapsulation
Formula checklist.
After meeting the requirements for a perfect size formula in terms of sizing efficiency, there are
other considerations which must then be weighed. These considerations must be met by
answering following questions
Will the material be available in uniform grades? If not, there will be trouble ahead when results
vary from one batch to another.
Will the material be available when needed and insufficient quality?
Will the cost of the material be prohibitive? The price of material is itself is not the whole
consideration. A high-priced material size may be worth the difference in results when compared
with a cheaper formula which causes frequent loom stoppages or ruined cloth.
Will the material be compatible with other materials being used?
Only after the above questions are answered can a sound decision be made regarding the
selection of a size.
The various properties which can be readily compared to known test methods and definitely have
an effect on weave ability of the yarn are 1. Abrasion resistance under tension (test both yarns
against yarn and yarn against metal)
Increase in tensile strength.
The minimum loss of elasticity.
Flexibility
Smoothness of film
Shock resistance, ability to withstand repeated strains
Resistance to the cutting of adjacent ends by knots and gouts.
Fiber laying
Film hardness.
Sensitivity to changes in relative humidity.
Resistance to shedding.
Film strength
Adhesion to yarns.
Residual elongation.
Reduction of friction
These tests can give only some indication of what to expect in the weave room an indication is
better than nothing, and often the reason why a warp is running improperly can be determined by
such tests
Warping:
The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone, cheese) on to a
common package (warp beam) is called warping.
Warping carries out following operations:
Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads, of a warp composed of any number of
threads with the desired length;
Arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the desired sequence;
Manufacturing of a warp beam with said characteristics.
Objects of Warping:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be
collect on a single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used
for sizing or next process .
Warping process involves:
Importance of Warping:
Construction of a beam of warp yarn.
Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.
Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place.
Winding the pre- determined length of yarn.
Combination of small packages.
Accelerating the next process.
Important requirements of Warping:
The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the
time of with drawl from the supply package.
Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
The tension should be moderate to allow the yarn complete retain its elastic properties.
Predetermined length should be observed.
Production rate should be high as possible.
The surface of warping package must be cylindrical.
Components of warping machine:
*** Creel
Single end creel
Magazine creel
Travelling package creel
Swivel frame creel
V – Shaped creel
*** Head stock
Fixed
Traveling
Winding:
Winding is one of the most important operation, which is mainly occurred in spinning section.
Besides, it is also important in fabric manufacturing. In fabric manufacturing, directly winding is
not so much important, but rewinding is so important. The creation of large yarn packages that
can be easily unwound, is called winding. This makes using the yarn on subsequent machines
both easier and more economical.
So we can say that, the process of transferring yarns from ring, bobbin, hank into a suitable
package is called winding. It may be electrical or mechanical.
For warp winding → Cone, cheese, flanged bobbin.
For weft winding → Pirn, cop.
Objects of winding:
• To transfer yarn from one package to another suitable package, this can be conveniently used
for used for weaving process.
• To remove yarns fault like hairiness, naps, slabs, foreign matters.
• To clean yarn.
• To increase the quality of yarn.
• To get a suitable package.
• To store the yarn.
Requirements of winding:
The requirements of winding may be summarized as follow:
• The fault level in the yarn must be reduced to an acceptable level.
• The yarn must not be damaged in any way in the winding process.
• The yarn must be wound in such a way as to permit unwinding in the following process with
a minimum of difficulty at the required speeds.
• The package size, shape and build must be the most technologically suitable for the
particular end use.
• The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic requirements.
• The winding operation must be geared to give the best possible economic performance of
the whole process of fabric manufacture.
Types of Winding:
• Precision Winding.
• Non Precision Winding.
Precision Winding:
By precision winding successive coils of yarn are laid close together in a parallel or near parallel
manner. By this process it is possible to produce very dense package with maximum amount of
yarn stored in a given volume.
Features:
Packages are wound with a reciprocating traverse.
Patterning and rubbing causes damage of packages.
Package contains more yarn.
Package is less stable.
The package is hard and compact.
The package is dense.
Rate of unwinding of package is low and the process of unwinding is hard.
The unwound coil is arranged in a parallel or near parallel manner.
Non Precision Winding:
By this type of winding the package is formed by a single thread which is laid on the package at
appreciable helix angle so that the layers cross one another and give stability to the package. The
packages formed by this type of winding are less dense but is more stable.
Features:
Only one coil is used to make this package.
Cross winding technique is used.
The package density is low.
Minimum number of yarn is wound.
The package formed is soft and less compact.
The stability is high.
Flanges are not required.
The rate of unwinding is high and the process is easy.
The packages formed have low density.
Definition of pirn
A pirn or quill is a weft bobbin that is placed inside a shuttle in shuttle weaving. As the shuttle
travels back and forth across the width of the shuttle loom, the weft yarn is unwound from the
pirn through the eye (for ordinary shuttle) or slot (for automatic shuttle) of the shuttle and lay in
the shed. The yarn on the quill is tapered at one end such that the yarn with drawl takes place
continuously without entanglement.
Pirn winding process
Winding of a quill is different from the regular winding process. In quilling, the yarn is
transferred from a larger package to the smaller quill, which is shown in figure. Also, the
inspection of yarn is not part of the process, therefore, there is no yarn clearing zone.
The traverse mechanism is also different because of the different geometry of the quill. The
traverse here does not go back and forth along the package. It only builds yarn on one part of the
package at a time, which is shown in the figure. Therefore, quill building is somewhat similar to
the building of a bobbin on a ring spinning frame. This type of winding helps
reduce ballooning effects, maintain uniform tension, and
reduce the possibility of slough-off.
The machines that are used to wind quill are called
“quillers” or pirn winding machines. These machines are
automatic, which means that when the quill is filled, it is
doffed and an empty pirn is placed on the spindle
automatically. With the elimination of the shuttle looms, the
quill winding process is also disappearing.
Winding Package:
Winding is one of the most important process before weaving the fabric. Various types of
winding packages are used here. This article has presented the classification
of winding packages with these advantages and disadvantages.
Winding area
It has three sections:
The unwinding zone.
The tension & clearing zone.
The winding zone.
The Unwinding Zone:
To rewind the yarn on a new package, it must first be removed from the old package. This is
accomplished in the unwinding zone. This zone merely consists of a creel, which holds the old
package in an optimum position for unwinding. The common yarn withdrawal methods, side
withdrawal & over-end withdrawal.
Coils are cross wound. Package is of low density. Less amount of yarn is stored
in package. High stability of package can be obtained. Flange is not necessary.
Unwinding rate is very high.
Creation, out of a limited number of warp threads, of a warp composed of any number of
threads with the desired length;
Arrangement of above-mentioned threads according to the desired sequence;
Manufacturing of a warp beam with said characteristics.
Objects of Warping:
To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns of related length so that they can be collect on a
single warp beam as a continuous sheet of yarns which can be used for sizing or next process .
Warping process
Importance of Warping:
*** Creel
Single end creel
Magazine creel
Travelling package creel
Swivel frame creel
V – Shaped creel
*** Head stock
Fixed
Traveling
Shedding:
Dividation of warp threads into two parts for insertion of weft threads is called shed and
the mechanism of shed is called shedding, it is the first primary motion of weaving.
Types of shed:
Bottom close shed
Centre close shed
Semi-open shed
Open shed
1. Bottom close shed:
This type of shedding is produced by giving motion only to threads that are to form the
upper line. Under this condition, the warp is level on the bottom line. Hence in order to
form a top shed, it is necessary to move some threads through a space equal to twice
the depth of a shed, once up and down, before a fresh selection is made. A shed of this
kind is known as stationary bottom with a rising and falling top.
Advantages:
Alternate tightening and slackening the warp threads produce a covered cloth
Produce fire fabric (silk)
Used in hand loom
Disadvantages:
More stress or tension on the top warp line and less tension on the bottom warp line.
More chance of breakage on top warp line
Unequal warp tension produces poor quality fabric
Loom speed/ waving speed is slower
Not possible to produce compact fabric
More power consumption
More time required
2. Center close shed:
This type of shed is produced by imparting an upward movement to those threads which
are to form the top line and the downward movement to the threads which are to form
the bottom line. Then after inserting a pick, both the lines meet at the center between
the highest and lowest lines of a divided warp.
Advantages:
Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
Less time required so high production
Less wear of the m/c
Less power consumption
Less tear of the threads
Disadvantages:
Beat up takes place in the closed shed condition
There is chance of weft being moved backward
Compact fabric can not be produced by this shed
3. Semi-open shed:
In this shed, the stationary bottom is retained but threads for the top line either passes
to bottom at one movement and again carried to the top mid way and again carried to
top. In this shed close and open shed occurred simultaneously. In it the stationary
bottom line is retained, but threads for the top line either pass to the bottom at one
movement, or are arrested midway and again carried to the top. Such a shed can be
formed as expeditiously as an open shed, for the upward movement begins and ends
with the downward through movement, and the arrested downward movement is
converted into an upward movement immediately the falling threads are in the same
plane as the rising ones. They all reach the top together but the strain upon them is not
equally distributed.
Advantages:
Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
All the warp yarns are not required to move up and down in every pick
Beat up takes places in the cross-shed condition
The loom can run at a faster speed
Possible to produce compact fabric
Less complexity or disturbance in the shedding mechanism
Used in power, dobby & jacquard loom
For fancy fabric
Less power consumption
Less tear of threads
Disadvantages:
Unusable movement
4. Open shed:
In open shed, the warp threads form two stationary lines, the top line and the bottom
line and changes are made by carrying the threads from one fixed line to the other
without any interval.
Advantages:
Beat up takes place in cross-shed condition
Equal tension on the top and bottom warp line
The loom can run at a fastest speed
Extensively used in tappet shedding mechanism
Basic fabric (twill, sateen, plain) can be produced.
Less power consumption
Less wear of the weaving m/c
Disadvantages:
High breakage rate
If higher no of healds are used then the warp in back healds are more strained than the front
ones
Leveling apparatus should be added to open shed to place the headls in one plane.
Definition of Tappet, Dobby and Jacquard Shedding | Definition of Dwell period | Advantages
and Disadvantages of Tappet and Dobby shedding
Tappet shedding
By strongly beating the anti-friction bowl which is attached with cradle bowl in order to
form shed for running arrangement of shuttle by the control of heald shaft is called tappet
shedding. I.e. which types of shed are formed in tappet loom is called tappet shedding.
Dobby shedding
The dobby is a shedding device placed on the top of a loom in order to produce a pattern
by using a large number of healds than the capacity of a tappet. In fancy weaving the dobby is
used to produce small pattern by means of warp threads and healds. The shed which is produced
by a dobby is called dobby shedding.
Shedding tappet | Types | Position of fixing shedding tappet | Construction of tappet for
Plain weave | Conditions of good shedding
Shedding tappet: Tappet, Cam are the names given indiscriminately to those irregular pieces of
mechanism to which a rotary motion is given for the purpose of producing reciprocating motion
in the rod and levers for shedding.
Types: We can divide it as following two types-
1. Positive: These give both upward and downward movements to healds without the aid of
any additional mechanism. But pullers, stocks and bowls are based on compensating principles.
Lifting and lowering →Mechanically. Which are-
a) Wood crofts section tappet.
b) The oscillation tappet.
c) Nutralls chain tappet.
d) Scroll tappet.
2. Negative: These require the addition of pullers, stocks, and bowls, springs or dead
weights to reserve either pulls the head down or lifts it. Which are-
a) Ordinary plain tappet.
b) Jamiesons tappet.
c) The barrel tappet.
Position of fixing shedding tappet:
a) Over or under the centre of heald shaft.
b) Over or under one end of the heald shaft.
c) Outside of the loom frame.
Over or under the centre of heald shaft: When the device is placed over the centre of heald
shafts, then the oil, grease etc applied to tradle bowl for antifriction property may fall on the
fabric and contaminate it when placed under the heald shafts, some difficulties may arise while
cleaning.
Over or under one end of the heald shafts: When the device is placed over or under one end of
the heald shaft then pressure is applied at any one side of the heald shaft. Hence connecting cards
should be used on two sides.
Outside of the loom frame: In this system, it is easy to clear the tappets and to apply grease, oil to
tradle bowl and easy maintenance can be done. But it requires more space.
Construction of tappet for Plain weave:
To design a shedding tappet for plain weave, the following particulars have been taken into
consideration-
i. Lift if tappet-4”
ii. Distance from the centre of the driving shaft to the nearest point of
contact with the trade bowl-2”
iii. Dwell of tappet one third of pick.
iv. Diameter of the trade bawl-2”
At a radius of 2 inches the circle – A. This circle represents the distance from the centre of the
driving shaft to the nearest point of contact with the tradle bowl. For plain weave tappet, the
bottom shaft is used as a driving shaft. At a radius of 3 inches the circle – B and one inch is
added for the radius of tradle.
At a radius of 7 inches the circle –C. Four inch is added for lift of tappet. The circle represents
the centre of the tradle bowl, when the inner circle of it is acting upon the bowl. The circle ‘C’
represent the centre of the bowl when pressed down by the device. Divide each half circle into
three equal parts by lines FK and GH. Divide FH and GK each into six equal parts and divide the
space between the circles B and C into six unequal parts. To find out the six unequal parts,
describe a semi-circle L between B and C. Now divide its circumference into six equal parts and
then draw perpendicular line from them on the line GH. This gives six unequal divisions on the
lift to obtain the desired eccentric shape of the tappet. From the corner of these unequal spaces
and with the tradle bowl describes circles representing the position of the tradle bowl at different
parts or its movement. Now draw the curved lines touching the extremities of the tradle bowl.
This gives the outline of the plain tappet.
Conditions of good shedding:
i. A shed should be as small as the nature of the work to be done.
ii. Healds should be placed at right angles with the warp threads.
iii. Exact vertical movement of the heald shafts is required.
iv. Perfect leveling of the headl shaft.
v. The heald shafts must begin to move slowly.
Shedding Mechanism
A process of raising and lowering of warp yarns by harnesses to make an opening for the filling
(weft) yarn to pass through.
The raised and lowered form of warp yarns is called shed
Three types of shedding motions (opening) are available for different type of fabrics.
They are:
Tappet shedding
Dobby shedding
Jacquard shedding
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\Tappet Shedding
A tappet is given a rotary motion so that it depresses a follower and a lever, known respectively
as the anti-friction bowl and the treadle arrangement, by means of which the heald shaft is
operated.
Working Principle
When the bottom shaft is rotated in the clockwise direction as shown in the figure, the tappets
are also rotated. The tappet will depress the anti-friction bowl and the treadle. Being fulcrumed
at one end, the front portion of the treadle moves down. This action is transferred to the lamb
rod, the heald shaft and the leather strap. So one heald shaft is lowered and the threads
connected to this heald shaft are lowered and form the bottom layer of the shed.
Dwell
The leather straps attached to the reversing rollers are connected in opposite directions, i.e.
when leather strap is pulled down; it is unwound from its roller. The shaft therefore rotates in
the clockwise direction and the other leather strap is wound on to its roller. The heald shaft is
raised and therefore the lamb rod and treadle lever are also raised. The threads connected to
the heald shaft are also raised and form the top layer of the shed. For the next shed, the other
tappet works with the other set of bowl, treadle, lamb rod, heald shaft, strap and roller and the
other heald shaft is lowered. The first heald shaft is raised by the top reversing rollers, and the
positions of the healds shafts are thus interchanged. Thus, for one rotation of the bottom shaft,
two sheds are formed. In this type of tappet shedding therefore, one tappet depresses the
concerned treadle and the corresponding heald shaft is lowered. But the other heald shaft is
raised by means of the top reversing rollers. So this type of shedding mechanism is known as
“negative tappet shedding mechanism”
Points to be Observed
Turn the crank shaft through two revolutions and make sure that the bowls are always in
contact with the tappets.
The heald shafts should not touch the side frames or the sley.
Turn the crank shaft to the bottom centre and check the size of shed. The bottom line of warp
sheet or the heald eyes of the lowered heald shaft should have a clearance of 1 mm from the
race board and the top.
Positive Tappet Shedding Mechanism
Principle:
In this type of shedding, the heald shaft is raised and lowered by the tappet.
Construction
The tappet shaft carries another tappet which has a groove or track in which a bowl is
placed. The bowl is connected in turn to a tappet lever with link rods, links J and a heald shaft .
Each tappet is separately connected to a heald shaft through link rods and tappet lever. There
are two fulcrums for tappet lever and links
.
Working Principle:
When the tappet is rotated, the bowl is also rotated. According to the shape of the groove, the
bowl ismoved up or down or is still. If the bowl is moved up, the tappet lever moves to the right
through the links and the heald shaft is lowered. If the bowl is moved down, the tappet lever
moves to the left and the heald shaft is raised. Since the heald shaft is raised and lowered by
means of the mechanism, this tappet shedding is known as positive tappet shedding
mechanism. When the bowl stands still, the heald shaft is in the dwell stage.
These tappets are made to work with from 8 to 12 treadles, and can be constructed for weaves
containing up to 24 picks to the round. A tappet contains 12 sections or picks in one repeat. The
tappet shaft is supported in open bearings in the framework, and secured to this shaft the
tappet wheel, containing a number of teeth (in this 180) which is a multiple of the weaves for
which the tappet may be required. The wheel is also fitted width a number of standard bolt
holes, in order to accommodate section plates of different sizes, such asare required for
weaves containing a varying number of picks to the round.
Dobby Shedding
This is a compact, electronically guided shedding motion and capable of having up to 28 shafts.
More complex and versatile shedding motion. A dobby loom, therefore, can have up to 28
shafts, and much greater weave repeat is possible. Design may be woven with two or more
basic weaves and their variation. Such fabrics may be referred as dobby cloths or dobby weave,
towels usually show geometric designs when pattern is provided by dobby.
Scope of Dobby:
It can produce more complex design.
Theoretically it can control maximum 48 heald frame but practically 36.
For cotton yarn it can control maximum 48 heald frame.
\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\Production is less than
tappet.
Principle of Negative Dobby Shedding:
In this type of shed, lowering of the heald frame occurred mechanically.
Construction:\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\
In the negative shedding the heald frames are operated by the jack & lever. The levers are
connected with the knife and the knifes are attached with the driving rod by means of
connecting needle. A pattern is used here according to the weave plan. When the teeth of
chain is come to the contact of chain drum then whole the arrangement moves together and
lowering of the heald frame is occurred by the spring.
Jacquard Shedding:
To provide with unlimited design width, jacquard shedding is needed. This shedding motion has
no shafts, instead, a hardness consisting of as many cords as there are ends in the warp sheet
connects each end individually to the jacquard machine. Each warp could weave independently
of all others. Complex and most versatile shedding motion. Biggest weave is possible with
jacquard shedding as each warp yarn may be individually controlled.
Jacquard shedding mechanisms are capable of producing large and intricate weave designs that
are beyond the scope of dobby shedding mechanisms.
In jacquard weaving, it is possible to control every warp yarn individually.
Many specialized types of jacquard machine have been developed for weaving particular kinds
of fabric, such as terry towels, damasks, and carpets.
Most of the rest are general purpose types that are comparatively easy to classify.
Suggestions:
Jacquard Shedding mechanism is very useful for producing designed fabric. Some of the
disadvantages hampered the shedding. We have to ensured the fault free shedding process in
jacquard shedding mechanism.
Conclusion:
The shedding process is done by some special device. Each Device is maintain the separate
mechanism to produce shed.
Objectives:
Scope of a dobby:
The scope of dobby is limited between a tappet and a jacquard. The number of shafts that can
be actuated by a dobby varies between 6 and 40. Theoretically dobby can control 48 shafts
(maximum). However, practically it can control 36 shafts in case of wool and allied fibres. Again,
for cotton and allied fibers, it can control maximum 24 heald shafts. In these case healds are
operated by jacks and levers.
Main parts:
Bottom shaft
L-lever
Upright shaft
T-lever
Upper draw knife
Lower draw knife
Upper hook
Lower hook
S-lever
Bulk lever
Thumb lever
Jack lever
Healdshaft
Returning spring
Motor
Crank shaft
Pattern cylinder
Pattern chain
Dobby shedding mechanism:
Here a climax dobby is described to explain the dobby shedding mechanism. Climax dobby is a
double lift double jack-lever negative dobby. Here two jack levers are operated by a single bulk
lever. They are joined with the bulk lever by a timber lever and a link. The double lever is
fulcrum med at a point and is connected with S-lever.
The T-lever is fulcrum med and is controlled by an upright shaft and an L-lever. They get motion
from motor and machine pulley. When the feeler comes in contact with a peg and when it is
not in the contact it goes down.
Conclusion:
Dobby loom is important for its use. We can use 8-12 heald frame in tappet loom but if we
want to use more heald frame for more decorative design then we should use dobby loom. This
practical helps me to know about the dobby loom and its mechanism. I think this will help me in
my future life.
Loom Motion:
The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as weaving.
The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom. In order to interlace
warp and weft threads to produce a fabric, the following motions are necessary on any type of
loom. Shedding, Picking, Beating, Let-off, Take-up are weaving loom motions.
The motions and their function on weaving machines or looms are as follows:-
1. Primary Motions.-
Shedding. - To separate the warp thread into layers one layer is raised and the other lowered.
Picking. - To insert a weft thread across the warp Ends through the shed.
Beating-in. - To push the weft thread that has been inserted across the war ends, up to the
cloth fell.
Primary Motions of Weaving
2. Secondary motions.-
Take-up motion –The system has the following controls:-
Tension control—The servomotor controls the warp yarn tension and slack according to the
signa collected by the tension sensor. This process ensures that the warp yarn’s tension is
controlled properly during opening, warp loosening, and warp let-off.
Manual warp yarn loosening and tightening—When the machine is not operating, the user can
manually tighten or loosen the warp by controlling the servomotor’s forward and reverse
rotator.
Fabric take-up control—This function pulls the finished cloth away from the opening in time as
required by the weft density so that the position of the opening does not vary with the new
weft- yarn, ensuring successful production.
A→ ETU GEAR BOX
B→GEAR
C→ FRICTION GEAR
D→ COMPOUND GEAR
E→ SPUR GEAR
F→ DRIVE GEAR
G→ PRESS ROLL
To pull the cloth forward after the beat-up of weft, maintaining the same pick density and
spacing throughout weaving of a cloth and throughout winding the woven cloth onto a roller.
Loom motion
Let-off. - To allow the warp to unwind from the warp beam during weaving and also to
maintain an average constant tension of warp as it weaves down.
Let-off
3. Auxiliary motion.-
In order to produce a good quality of cloth and to prevent damages it is necessary to have some
stop motion provided on the loom. They can be termed as auxiliary motions.
Warp protector. - To protect the warp thread by stopping the loom when the weft fails to
reach, and box properly into either the winder during picking.
Warp stop.- To stop the loom when a warp thread breaks or excessively loose.
The operating system is the following .:-
Each warp thread is passed into the bottom slit of a metallic drop wire 2,
Which this way is supported by the thread under tension. Through the top slit of the drop wire
passes the contact rail 3 composed of an u-shaped outside coating in stainless steel, of a strip of
insulating material and of a flat conductive inside blade in nickel-plated copper, Provided on the
upper part with a toothing.
The contact rail 3 is part of a low voltage electric circuit, of which the drop wire 2 acts as circuit
Breaker.
Warp stop
Weft stop.- To stop the loomwhen a weft breaks or the weft runs out of the weft package.
Weft stop
In the case of air jet machines for staple yarn weaving, an optoelectronic weft stops motion in
twin arrangement can be delivered. While the first of the two weft stop motions serves as
support for the machine control, the second one records the weft threads broken in the shed or
expelled.
When the first one gets the weft, which means the weft thread has travelled the
predetermined distance, the loom remains running. And in case of the second one gets the
weft, which means the weft thread has broken and travelled excess than the predetermined
distance, it knocks-off the loom instantly.
Introduction:
Picking is the second primary motion in weaving. The action of inserting weft yarn through the
warp yarns is called picking.
Over picking
Picking arm
Picking strap
Picker
Bottom shaft
Picking spindle
Shuttle
Picking cam
Vertical shaft
Cone
Bowl
Angular
Crank shaft
Features of Over Picking Mechanism:
Picking arm is over shuttle.
Suitable for narrow loom.
Higher picks per minute.
Less power required.
Works more smoothly.
Shortening the picking strap and changing the shape of the cam can increase picking force.
Mechanism of Over Picking:
Over picking mechanism is used on cotton and jute loom. It is robust and easy to adjust and
maintain. The spindle is situated over the shuttle box and is essential to guide the shuttle along
the correct path. It is normally set slightly up and slightly towards the front of the loom and its
inner end.
The back end of the shuttle will thus receive a similar lift at the end of the stroke, so that its
leading end will receive correct delivery down and into the shed. A flexible leather-picking strap
is used to control the picker, which has tendency to stretched slowly in use, and vary with
regard to its elastic property.
The cone over pick motion consists a vertical shaft placed either inside or outside the loom
framing. The shaft serves as fulcrum of the picking arm, it is held against the loom frame. There
is a spiral spring at the picking shaft, which causes the picking arm and picker to move back
after the delivery of the pick.
At the two end of the bottom shaft, two picking cams are fixed. In revolving its nose the tappet
strikes the cone shaped ant frictional roller strut, positively rotates the shaft and causes the
pick to move inward with sufficient velocity to drive the shuttle across the loom. The timing of
the picker begins to move can be attend by turning the picking tappet on its boss.
Conclusion:
The over picking motion is negative one; the exact amount of power is required to drive a
shuttle. By this experiment we learned about the over picking mechanism and how it works.
This experience will help us in our future practical life.
Introduction:
Picking is the second primary motion in weaving. The action of inserting weft yarn through the
warp yarns is called picking.
Then the motion comes in to the bottom shaft and thus picking cam. When picking cam rotates
and its nose portion comes in contact with treadle lever and pushes it then the treadle lever
pushes the angular lever. The picking arm gets motion from angular lever which is connected
with picking arm.
A picker is placed in the picking arm which pushes the shuttle. When shuttle gets motion by
picking arm then shuttle begins to move to and fro on the race board. Thus picking is done.
A spring is situated which causes the picking arm and picker to move back after the delivery of
the pick. At the two end of bottom shaft, two picking tappets are fixed. By increasing nose
length picking speed may be increased.