The STAN LEY TOOL GUIDEBrad Awls are used to make holes for small screws and nails. To avoid spitting the wood, start the awl with its edge across the grain, turning it back and forth slightly as you press down Do ot let the edge ome parallel with the grain = ‘Twist Bits for Wood are wed to make holes for screws, nails or bolts. They are sized by S2nda of am inch and range from No. 2= yy" and larger ——F Bit Stock Drills are designed and tem- peted to make holes im mets, bt may also Be used in wood, especially in repair work where contact with nails or metal is pos ble ‘They are sized by S2nds of an teh nd range from No.2 = je” and larger, a" Fostner Bite are used to bore holes part way through where the auger bit serew of pur would go through the work, also on {hd grain, thin wood, or near an end where Sn auger bit would spit the work. To cen= ier ‘or start a Fostner Bit, scribe a circle the size of the hole with dividers and press the rim of the Fostner Bit into it Fostner Bits are sized by I6ths of an inch fom No. ee and larger with aslipstone. Sharp- fen the spurs on the i Side to preserve the Giameter. Tic avotR air ‘Auger Bits are sized by 16ths of an inch, measuring the diameter Bits vary in length from 7” to 10” Dowel Bite are short Auger Bits about $14” long For boring directions, see Stanley tit Brace Chart and Stanley Doweling Jig Chart. For driling directions, see Stanley Hand Drill Chart eh The standard ‘The single The diamond double thread thread. feed point is used feed screw is screw ig best for machine beat for gene for fast cuts boring with ezalwork with ting in green power feed Seasoned wood. Teis pee ferred for eab- inet and pat. tern making or gummy wood Sharpen Alger Bits Sharpen the cutting witha bit fle. For'a edges on the top. Keen edge, alao_whet faintain the clearance fon the under side. The cutting edger must be lepe even Paget Bits are marked for size by a single sum ber. The numerator of the faction stand for the diameter of the bit. Auger an Fostner Bits are marked by 16th of a inch. "No. 8 stands for 8/16" or 4". Twis Bits for wood are usually macked in th same way, by Sends of an inch No. stands for 6/32” or CCountersink Bits are used to widen serv holes to that the heads of fathead screw ‘may be flush, of slightly below, the surfac of the work ‘An Adjustable Bit Gauze may be used ¢ regulate the depth of holes “The Eapantve Bit takes the place of ma intge bie, ‘The cuter may be adjusted walls sized holes, When 210n the cut Thatches the index marke the biti Set tore a 2" hole Moving the eater 13 cxtoatd wil ticense the diameter of t Sole 116". Test the ase on a pcce Waste wood, For boring throug’ cla Tete of waste wood of the back oft Trav to prevent split‘To chip a broad surface, that is, to remove the surplus material preparatory” "to. smoothing with a Sle, use a cape and a Rat chisel Chip grooves across the surface of the work with a cape chisel ‘Then chip away the material between the grooves with a fat chisel. Hold the work in the vise at about elbow height. “Graup the chisel Brrly enough to fulde it, but loosely enough to ease the shock Sf the hammer blows imparted to the hand thew the chisel Hold the chisel at an Angle that will bring the lower bevel parallel tothe surface of the work. Grasp the hammer near the end of the handle and swing it well over the shoulder in a free iEraceful sweep, Te is not necessary to lubricate the chisel when chipping cast ion. When chipping weought fron of steel, lubricate the chisel every few blows by touching the edge to a piece of ofl soaked waste HOW TO USE THE STANLEY FLAT COLD CHISEL To shear in a vise, hold the chisel so that when struck sith the hammer, the chisel and. the Stationary jaw of the vise act Hike pai of shears. To eut rad or small bar stock to rough size, nick it On opposite sides and bend i until i breaks, Cold chisels are ground of fed with a bevel on both sides. forming a cutting angle c! about 65" for average work Se aes 6 ill To cut out « hole, use a narrow chisel Eanes wil ome eaten driving the rivet set down over the Fis ending the sive with the sloet TO AVOID ACCIDENTS Inspect the hammer every time it s checked out of the 100 room Be sure the hammer head is firmly attached and the wedges driven tightly in place, Page #HOW TO USE THE STANLEY SETTING HAMMER Dressing a lock edge on the edge of the bench withthe side of the hammer, This operation is often done with a. mallet or with piece of wood! \ Harve Dressing metal around a wire Gimbss eae letpe 5 ae wR fA Dressing a bench made lock edge eining the edge around a wire te Bnish a reinforced wire edge Closing the seams of an elbow. Closing the seams of a double seamed botorn: PEINED IN. CLOSED tag Rene, Gling of ee TO AVOID ACCIDENTS Cee eee Wiha malles Inspect the hammer every time itis checked out of the 1001 room. tightly in place2 ‘The ball pein hammer is the mechanic's all around hammer, Fer chipping. use a ball pein hammer, 1 to 2 Ibe. in weight, according to the workman's preference. ‘To sivet with a ball pein hammer: Support the rivet on Something hard, a stake or dolly te; draw the parts together with 2 civet set for with a deft; strike straight down on the fivet with the ball pein; hesd the rivet over ‘with the ball pein ‘or with the face of the hammer, 4 HOW TO USE To strike heavy and medium blows, grasp the hammer firmly near the end of the handle and wing it witha free graceful sweep, well over the shoulder, To strike Tight Blows, as in. delving rivets, grasp the handle nearer the head and swing ‘ith a motion slighty at the elbow but chielly St the write —w ‘To change a center punch mark, hammer out the old mare with the ball pein, TO AVOID ACCIDENTS Inspect the hammer every time it ig checked foutof the toal room. Be sue the head is realy sttached. and ‘the wedges “driven tightly in place. Avoid stetking the handle to’ save it From breakage. ‘Avoid chipping the edges of the hammer face, ‘when striking hard metals, Avoid striking with the cheek of the hammer, fas it i the weakest part Page 6 THE STANLEY BALL PEIN HAMMER ‘The ball pein hammer, weighing about 1s to 2 Ibs, is & good general purpose light weight hhand hammer for forge work. Notice the blacks smith extends ‘nis thumb along the back of the handle ‘To raise a bowl shaped form, auch asthe bow! ‘of a solder ladle, hold the work over a swage block or suitable form or stake and beat it out ‘with the ball pei alyHow to Select and Use Hand Sav How To Use Wood Chisel How To Use Nail Hammers and Screw Driver E ie How To Use Hand Drills and Bit Braces rf uy HOW TO USE THE STANLEY HAMMERS | Cnoss Pein For many jobs of swaging, riveting, ‘To stretch a piece of stock in the Stretching ‘or bending, a ball pein direction of ite width, use a cross hammers aot suitable. Use a cross pein hammer pein or a straight pein hammer, ac Eoeding to the work To strike heavy and medium blows, grasp the hammer firmly near the To stretch a piece of stock in the fend of the handle and swing it with a ffee graceful sweep, well over divection of ieriength use asrnight the shoulder. & e ‘ ‘ Zs pein hammer. strike light blows, asin driving svets, grasp the handle nearer the head and swing it with a slight motion at the elbow but chiefly at TO AVOID ACCIDENTS > ‘The blacksmith usually holds his thumb along the back of the hare mer handle, he macinstusvally_ bodes Haleus Welhead ie tray atachelid ti wrtgariten CES ra Teles te fendle ose emerge Cat eats oat eae ‘Avoid striking wit he cheek of the hammer as tis the weakest pat. 7 ae eeeHOW TO USE l THE STANLEY T BEVEL “essary wr Stat Anse Diiber ROSE Laying off mitre swith a bevel Siglo as in laying of “The Stanley Angle Divider is a double eee Devel. Tes used to take off and divide POLYGONS AND THEIR MITRES, eles for the mitre cut, in one opera POUNGONS AND THEDR MITRES: tion. The handle is graduated on the Set the bevel for these angles with the stee! back for laying off 4 56, 8 and 10 sided fquare A fence of two strips of stood, shown work: ‘ove, will help to obtain a proper setting ‘The bevel may also be set by a prowactor, shown at the left. or by aline drawn ata desired angle to the z tie of a ice ol wood j Sn a be igh, The m en eee er Laying ofa mize witha taney Angie Testing mired ends Testing beveled protactn, by meres 7 Divider The square bade ny be med wrth the bee Stemi edges with oe E ar 7 geomente fra ity square traction, he blade may fextend on one side only for testing inside corners nl 5 Page 8trun +o Use FvIarKing Wauges and Iry Squares. HOW TO USE THE STANLEY BUTT GAUGE Loose Pin Butt Hinge Specifications wi Page 9Le o Doweled Comer e 1 Indicate on face side the location for any number of dowels desired 2 Square «line across the edge on both ipleces from the marks indi a |. | Doweled Jeccutar Segment Mortising 3. Select the proper size dowel and the same size guide "F". Place the uide in the side "E” with the two frarls on the guide downward and parallel to the. fence and. fasten | Fecurely with the thumb nut “A STANLEY DOWELING JIG EXAMPLE: LAYING OUT FOR CORNER JOINT HOW TO USE THE Doweled End “Joint 5 Place the doweling jig on one of the pieces of stock with the fence |Doweled Splice fhext' (othe face side. Bring the Joint mark "J" even with the squared line Gn the edge af the stock. Clamp securely 6 Place the bit of proper size into the guide, using cafe not to tke the Cutting edge of the bit against the steel guide Bore for each hole Air it'is desired to Bore to depth, place the depth gaug the proper position on the bit 4 Adjust the slide “E" so that the Marla om the guide wil be the |) OF as proper graduation to bring the cen lace dowels in holes and com {er of the hole the distance desired plete the joint from the face of the stock Page 10HOW TO USE THE STANLEY SPOKE SHAVES To set a Stanley No. 151M Spoke Shave, hold the Spoke Shave with the bottom in line with the eye. See Stanley Plane Chart. Turn the adjusting nuts until the cute ting edge projects for an even shaving and. about the thickness of'a hai. Test for depth of cut ‘The Spoke Shave is usually Pushed, The at bottom Spoke Shave is uted on convex and com fave edges where the curves have a long sweep. Care must be exercised to eut with the grain of the wood. Apuusing tt = eves cae of Suniy Asjutn Spots Ss ‘The Spoke Shave is practically a plane with the bottom shore enough fo follow curves ‘The biade or cutter of the icon Spoke Shave i sharpened like a plane blade. See Stanley Charts, ‘The Spoke Shave is also used to chamfer and to round edges. Special. Spoke Shaves are available.” Stanley Nor 65 with fences for chamfering and Stanley No, ss with @ hollow or concave bottom {or rounding edge =a —s— To sets Spoke Shave without adjusting nuts, such as the Stanley Conver Bottom Spoke Shave No. 63%, gently tap the fend of the blade to make it pro- fect the thickness of @ hair. To SGjuet the biade laterally, to ake fin even shaving, tap i on the Eide that projeete too much to draw it in. Tighten the cap screw ‘with a screw ‘The Convex Bottom Spoke Shave No. 53x is. designed to cut com cave curved edges having small sweepHOW TO SHARPEN AND USE. THE STANLEY CABINET SCRAPER Apgusting eae To_Adjust and Use the Cabinet Sera Loosen the adjusting thumb screw and the To Sharpen a Bevel File or grind « bevel y clamp thumb serews:_ Insert the Blade fom Ege Scraper Blade: of about 45°.” Push the Bottom with the bevels toward the ad Remove the old burt the fle forward and sting thumb screw. with a smooth mill to the side with one fle held fat against slicing motion the face or Mat ide of the blade Og ‘The Cabinet Scraper is used for the Snal smoothing e ; before sandpapering, It removes the slight ridges Bring the edge of the blade even with the Tett by the plane, Tt is also used to smooth surfaces bottom of the seraper body, by standing it that are dificult to plane because of curly or ire O82 fat surface and pressing the blade wee ghty against the wood. ‘Tighten the clamp ‘usb screws “aa Bow the blade by ght o fing the adjusting thumb screw “8 to ‘Whee the Bevel side Whet the face side ae ee mriaen ed sr ASAT Basia votrtne of atrBlade’ tore Nene Hone corner of the Dade projects too sit stone move the wire ede a \ {ar ie can be drawn in by tapping the sie of as . the Blade nese the top \ ‘Turn the edge with a few frm strokes ofthe burnisher on the bevel side of the blade.” The scraper cam be held in any of the three ways shown above. Draw the burnisher toward you the full engeh of the blade, with «sliding stroke ‘Some preter to stroke both ways from the center foward the ends. "A drop oi . oll on the burniaher help, ‘Tey the sceaper and change the adjuttinent unt ft taker 4 05 rem shaving Hold turned — STitueto the side o stat eat Draw the edge with a few firm — — ‘The Cabinet Scraper is usually Hotes on the face vide of te feeeithe cee tet atal blade. Hold the burnisher Bat Tine frat stroke should be made with the burmisher held at an angle, a little Dust instead of a shaving, indi on the face side of the blade, greater tham the bevel. Increase the angle until at the last stroke, the burs c#t*# dull seraper. ‘isher is eld at about 75° to the fat face of the blade, If the edge thould be turned too far over, it can be raised by drawing the point of the burnisher along the edge, under the bur. Page 12HOW TO SHARPEN AND USE Ee THE STANLEY HAND SCRAPER To Sharpen the Hand Scraper: File the edges square and Straight by drav.Sling with Sstnooth mil Ble, Rotind the comers slightly. ‘The Hand Scraper is used for the Saal smoothing before sandpapering. It re ‘moves the slight ridges left by the plane Tris algo used to smooth surfaces that dlificut to plane because of curly or ire Whet the edge, holding Remove the buse by lar grain. the blade square to the whetting the scraper Surface of the olf stone. Rat on the il’ stone ‘Some prefer te hold the ‘The ‘edges should. be Scraper square tothe very smooth and sharp. ‘edge of the sl stone ‘an be either pushed or pulled Stood demandl or whichever it ‘Turn the edge witha few strokes of the burisher, The scraper can beheld in The hand scrapers held any of the three ways shown above. ‘Draw the burnisher toward you the full firmly Uetween the fength of the biede, with a sliding stroke thumb” and Ringers. st Draw the edge with — a8 angle of about 75° three or four fem —— and sprung vo a sight ess of the Bucoisber < A curve, by pressure’ of held Baton the scrape. the thumbs ‘To turn the edges out, the buimisher js held at 90° to the fate ofthe Blade for Dust, imsteed of ashav: the frst strokes Por each of the following strokes, tlt the burnisher shightly ing. “inditates. a dull Unt atthe lant stroke itis held at about 85" to the face of the Dade. A‘érop ——sefaper fei on the burniaher helps. Page 13COMMON WOOD JOINTS RaverHow To Sharpen Plane Irons. COMMON CUTS IN WOOD = oO Plow RAseeT TonGue Groove Bava. Y { | [ Y e4 Curr Stor Cre Nosnc CENTER BEAD ECE BEAD FLUTE HotLow VARouno CoveorltHoow REED Reverse Ooce Rowan Ooee Sue Lar Common Qoee «= ASTRAGAL GRECANOceEBeA © Beve Sst OvwLo SssH Ocee Sas+USE AND C F IT is true that “a man is known by the company he keeps," i is quite true that "a craftsman is known by the tools he keeps and how he keeps them.” Occasionally good work may be turne ‘out with poor tools, but in such a case the result is only the unusual accomplishment of a worker of superior skill. The beginner will find it safer to consider himself an average rather than an excep- tional craftsman. As such, he will need every advantage obsainabl to accomplish good results. More than anything else, good tools will szive him the best possible start toward the acquiring of skill, and will give him lasting satisfaction. ‘They will prove to be his best Have you ever seen a skilled cabinet maker or pattern maker purchase tools? In the first place, he goes to a reliable dealer and. asks for a reliable brand. These precautions constitute his guarantee Of first-class quality. You will next see him weigh the tool in his hhand, and handle it in all possible working positions. It must “feel ood” and have the right balance. You'll find he spends as much) time in selecting a tool as most men do in picking out a suit of clothes. If he, with all his skill, requires nothing but the best, what ‘can the beginner with licele or no skill hope co accomplish with tools the expert would reject? Don’t let a poor tool spoil one of the most fascinating hobbies known, Ie is far better to own a few good tools than any number of poor ones. By the same token, itis far better to master a few cools than to have 2 smattering of knowledge concerning a large number. ‘A good way to guard against such a possibility is to purchase tools fon the budget plan. Start a “buy-2-tool-a-week” or “buy-a-tool- a-month” club with yourself. With such 2 plan you will not only feel theie cost far less, but you'll have an opporcunity to get ac- guainted with the one you have just purchased, before 2 new one arrives on your bench to divide your attention. If your plan calls for the purchase of only one tool at a time, you will be more likely to purchase a good one and less ape to “stretch” your money over a number of poor ones Page 16'E OF TOOLS- When a new tool arrives at your bench, your first job is to get thoroughly acquainted with it. This Tool Guide has been prepared as a means of giving you 2 proper introduction to your tools. Fol low its advice and you'll find that you and the new tool have become old friends before another tool arrives on the scene. Learn all about it. Take it apart and put it together, Work with it on scrap wood until you are its master. Practice every known operation it affords. Most of them have been illustrated in this book. Handle ic carefully and correctly, and you can do with it anything and everything for which it is designed. Treat it badly and you'll accomplish nothing with it but poor work, Whenever you quit the work you are doing with a tool, wipe it off and put it carefully away. A tool panel on which every tool has a place of its own is recomnmended rather than the usual tool box. Such a panel eliminates the possible nicking of keen edges, which often occurs when sharp tools are piled in a box. At the same time, the panel keeps each tool in plain view of the worker. This elimi- nates searching for tools, which for some reason always seem to be at the bottom of the box. Keep a light film of oil on your tools to prevent possible rusting, and above all else keep them sharp. A dull edge is not only inet cient bur often actually dangerous. When a tool becomes dull, learn to sharpen it yourself ‘A good tool is a life-long investment and the eraftsman's best friend. Treat it as such and you'll be repaid a thousand times in the results you obtain from its use, When you have learned how to choose, use, and keep good tools, you will no longer require this Tool Guide. You can then hand it vo some amateur with the compli- ‘ments of an expert! STANLEY TOOLS NEW BRITAIN, CONNECTICUT How To Sharpen Plane Irons. xmoz—Grinding straightens the edge and re- stores the bevel preparatory to sharpene ing by Whetting on the oil stone. ‘The Grind Stone should turn toward the Plane Iron. Use the Guide as it assures a fat even bevel Keep the Plane Iron cool to prevent burning. or softening the steel, by fe ‘quent dipping in water Stones running in water or oll are prefer- able WHEN TO GRIND A PLANE IRON OR A CHISEL When the cutting ca eed eee aes HOW TO GRIND STANLEY PLANE IRONS To get the right grinding angie about 25" to do" make the bevel a little longer than twice the thick: hess of the plane ‘When the bevel has been sounded by cacelesswhetting. Move the Plane Iron from side to wide to grind all parts of the Bevel and to keep the wheel true ‘The edge should be straight and almost at right angles to the sides of the Plane Tron, Avoid 4 bevel too. Avoid a bevel too jong and thin. Te is Short and thick. It weak ang7will sick will not exter the can wood easly.—— HOW TO WHET STANLEY PLANE IRONS Whet the Plane Iron on the oil stone to produce the teal sharp cutting edge. PLANE IRON ‘OR BLADE. Remove the wire or feather edge by taking a few strokes with the fat side ff the Plane Tron ‘held FLAT on the Hold the Plane from in the righthand with A] oes ive signs etn the shen Bevel Tee grinding angle about Nee ae or a Place the bevel on the stone with the back Berto ior make the ‘Hen nick or wablny edge of bluntness age slightly raised fevel'a litte tonger C48, Be Seem repeat both processes Move the Plane Iron back and forth than twice the thick: netting hess of the plane TO KEEP THE BEVEL STRAIGHT Te sure the Bands move parallel to the stone s0 that the angle between the Plane Iron fand the stone will stay the same throughout the stroke, Whe TTina A Use enough oil to keep the surface of the stone moist, It Keeps the stone sharp by preventing particles of stee filling the pores A bevel Sf the stone. Try ta wear the stone even) ( fn the P a Rocking fat side of Plane marks will show less on 4 the Plane he Plane Tron Finish with a few finished surface if she. corners of eon produces Fecevents the\Cap gureits ona leather strop to produce the Plane Iron are slightly rounded a rounded bevel fron fitting tight. keener edge that will not cut Shavings will clog wel the plane—————S ee HOW TO ASSEMBLE THE STANLEY DOUBLE PLANE IRON PLane_laow ‘To put the Plane tron and the Plane Is. Gap together: tbay the Plane tom Oe Satie fir tis of the Plane Irons as shown With the screw in the slot, "2~-Draw the Plane Tron Cap back, 3—Turn it straight with the Plane Teos, S—Holé the Plane Iron and the Plane Puane tao Car, Tron Cap! frmip and ightes the serew te hold the tworparts together s—Advance the Plane Tron Cap until the edge ie jist Back of the ca iron. Te Plane Iron or For Lever Cap ap must not be drag ScRew fel across the cutting A sae Plane it prevents the wood splitting ahead fof the cutting edge producing a smooth Surface. ‘The Plane Iron Cap also serves to stiffen the Plane Tron, The Plane Tron Cap should extend j4” back of the cutting edge for general work, “On Yj ‘The Plane fron Cap and the Toe removed ross grained or curly, wood it should be 25 Y The ‘wood splits ahead of the cutting | cae Teasing’ « rough seriace ij‘ToPuc the Plane Tageibes lay the Plane ivon, bevel side dow, 08 the Frog. ‘Be sure the Rolle: on the Lateral Adjusting Lever, the end of the Y Adjusting Lever Std the Head of the Plane Tron Cap Screw are correctly seated, , Slip the Lever Cap under the Lever Cap Screw and press dows the Cam. If the Plane Tron ie in the correct postion the Cam will casily snap in place. If the Cam will not snap. in. place easily Slighely loosen. the Lever Cap Screw. If the Plane Tron is not firmly held ‘when the Cam is in place lightly tighten the Lever" Cap Screw HOW TO SET THE STANLEY PLANE Shaving sight ‘of the Plane and nove the Lateral ‘Adjusting Lever towaed the right fe the left, ‘To Adjust for the Thickness of the Shaving sight along the bot tom of the Plane and turn the Adjusting Nut until the cutting ‘edge projects about the thickness of @ hate Knob, Lever Cap and Plane Tron Cap removed to show the action The Plane Iron i¢ of the Lateral Adjusting Lever, drawn in when the Adjusting, Nut mover in toward the Frog. ‘The Plane tron it pushed “out when the Adjusting “Nut mover. out toward the HandlePlaning, toke an easy ‘bat Rem position directly back of the work Hold the Plane square with the ‘work face of the work L HOW TO USE THE STANLEY PLANE — ‘To Cut a Smooth Straight Edge the Plane ie pushed with the iain, that is in the UDI Grection of the Rees, ‘To Keep the Plane Straight press down on the knob at the be Pinning of the stroke and on the handle at the end of the stroke. Avoid dropping the Plane as shown by the broken lines. Tt ound the corners, To Obtsin « Smooth Surface plane with the grain. If the grain ‘ertorn oF Tough after the frit stroke reverse the work, Hf the grain is cross or curly sharpen the Plane Iron carefully, set the Plane Iron Cap as heat the Cutting Edge ae possible and adjust the Plane Tron to take a vety thin even shaving Te is easier to plane a tong edge straight with a long plane than with s short one. Along plane bridges the low parts and does hot cut them until the high spots are removed. Page 22 ‘At the End of the Stroke the eight of the body sould be car tied! easly on the left foot Plane End Grain half way from each edge If the Plane is pushed all the way the comers will bres.‘To adjust the Plane Iron, verucally, for the thickness Gf the shavings, sight along the Plane bottom and tun the Adjusting Screw forward to push the Plane Tron out, for turn it back to pull the Plane Iron in ‘The Block Plane is used to plane small pleces and to plane the ends of mouldings, trim and siding HOW TO ADJUST AND USE THE STANLEY BLOCK PLANE ng Scop. Ea ee ‘To adjust the Plane Iron Batata laterally for” evenness of shavings, loosen the Lever Cap Setew. Sight slong the Plane bottom, prest the Plane Tron tothe right or to the left and tighten. the Lever Cap Screw. KEEP YOUR PLANE SHARP ‘The Block Plane has a single Plane Iron set ata lower angle than the Plane Iron of the Smooth Plane, enabling it to cut tnd geain better than other planes. Because of the low angle the Plane Tron is set bevel Up. ‘he Block Fane i iniapenable he Block Plane fs noel The Block Plans chebanae_0, ee Zina eon Rewer: cebaitecagees Seapeceae anes nie nettee 9 fave eee oe ee emne eye crecetHOW TO USE THE STANLEY MARKING GAUGE 7 Bet she Marking Gauge by measurement feom the Lay the comer of the beam on the wood and re: Head to the Pin Check the measurement after fight valve the Gatige, with a slight wrist motion, to e® ning Thumb Seeew. age the Pin for'a light line 3 ey} Pe ea cere a insGom em Jy you would a ball, the Gauge forward, with the get iran the enn SOMONE eae ! iH ness eae es ee wh The Pin should be sharpened’ with a ‘The Pin should pe ces file so. that it may Moin make” a kellie L z Page 24HOW TO USE THE STANLEY TRY SQUARE ‘AnD How 70 SQUARE UP stock 1. WORK FACE Plane one broad surface smooth and straight. "Test it crosswise, lengthwise, find irom corner to comer, Marie the Work Face X- 6. SECOND FACE From the Work Face gauge a line for thickness. around the stack Plane the ‘tock to the pauge line. ‘Test the Second Face as the Work Face is tested. 2. WORK EDGE 5. SECOND EDGE Pibekiel cageaseoets) scat tied iors the Woekzage gangs = toe for Square to the Work Pace, “Test it trom Hold the handle ofthe Tey Square tight agsinst wigih ‘on Woah" Farke. ine smooth, Gorge race iuark aa Wee WAM tesmeck: wheal fees ta eave crag am sence peers eee x ie Tat the ‘Sica Bage from tne Work Fae CoE Soeur Neen, 3. WORK END 4, SECOND END Plane one end smooth and square, ‘Test Measure Length and sribe ’ 4: from the Work Face and Work age ‘Werk Bdge and Work Pace.” Saw of excers sock nea the fine Mar the Work End and plane smooth tothe scribed line. Test the Second End from both the Work Face and the Work Edge.‘To dill holes of uniform depth, snake a depth gauge. Cut piece of Wwood ue dowal the right lengeh, so The asl will project the desiced dept whan the piece of wood is delea 224 sipped over the dell Hold tne del steady inthe direction desired and exert an even presture ‘Torn the crane at a constant speed How TO USE Caan anton ous Po DeTASHABLESOEMANOLE ‘The Hand Dil is used for the eapid driling of small toes, in {oth wood and metal. Holes i waod should be started with an Su to help center and loeate the dell. Holes in metal should be enter punched. Wien deling though metal, relieve the pres Sire slighty belore breaking through, fo avotd beeskng the del Dit points for wood se nse in et sizes rom) 1610 11,64 ‘wrist Duils peneipally for metal are made in a vast rane of Hota the det staight. Do not wobble while turing it males the hole oversize ad fe ely fo'break the i Ie is sometimes desirable to hold the del bythe side handle and press the Body against the fame handle Uke & breast dil THE STANLEY HAND DRILL ‘To place the dil inthe chuck, open ‘only lightly more than the diam fer of the dev. Thais helpe to cen feels Insert the del. “Tighten the Chuck by” pushing. forward. om the frank wil the Sigh hand while folding’ the chuck shell tight with the ele thumb and forenger ‘To semove the drill, hold the chuck sell tight with the late thu and forefinger, and turn the crank backs ‘ward with the sight Baad, se shown by the atow Page 26How To Use Wood Chisels. How To Use Nail Hammers and Screw Drivers. How To Use Hand Drills and Bit Braces. HOW TO USE THE STANLEY BIT BRACE on To place the bit in the chuck, grasp the ‘hutk shell'and tusn the handle to the Tete uneil the jaws are wide open. Insert ‘To bore. vertical hole, hold the brace and the bit shank sa the square toca ofthe bit perpendicular to the surface of the chuck and turn the handle to the right work Test by sight. “Compare the Aint the bit i held Remy in the Jew Airection of the bit ta the nearest sieight edge otto siden of the vise, A fey Saace may be held against the bit Be aint es To bore a horizontal le, old be head of dhe brake copped io the ll band wi the Bit brace chucks of the above design are fl, rare capped nth et hand wis tbe TANS Mn he ao revere operated in lke manner. ‘The corners of ee eee ahaa ee ae Ul This gives perfect contel ofthe brace. The Rtenet Brace is indispensable when ‘To operate the mtcet te the eam ring ie ‘Turning the cam ring to the right will daw heb tod igh and gee a SESS Wh ih tant Smad fully Seated in the V grooves of the jaws toring a hele n'a corner, er where some opck prevents maling fall turn with ‘he hase ‘To bore thru without splintering the Second Face, stop when the sefew point is thru and finish from the Second Face Page 27How TO USE THE STANLEY NAIL HAMMER Grasp the hammer handle Brenly nese the end: Zo daw 4 nl: Slip the claw of the ramet under the nal head pall unl the handles nearly verdcal'and the sah panty drawn, 1 the pulls continued, unnecessary force i Fequired thar will bend the tal, mar the wood tnd peshops breale the hanes handle The blow is delivered through the wrist, the e bow and the shoulder, one or all being brought ito play, according to the strength of she blow to bestrick Rest the face of the basset on the ‘ail; draw the hammer back and give light tap {e start the nal and to determine he sim Use 4 nail set to_dsive nails below the surface of all ne worl To pre ese the nail set sipping. off ie head of the nai rest the tle Anger fon the work and press the atl set Frmly against it." 'Set nails about 1716” below the surface of the wood. Strike the nail squarely to avoid: mortage wood an Bending he fall Keep the face of the hammer lean (0 void sipping. ofthe pail. It 3 nail bends, Grav itand sare a new fone ina new pls, Slip piece of wood tinder ‘the. head. of the hammer to crease the. leverage snd ts celieve the ue the mandle. ‘Aways stike with the face of the ha: A bell face hammer is slightly more con: ier. Tes hardened for that puspose Do ox than a plain face hammer. With i not damage the face by striking see! be driven fush, or slightly be harder tan ite Do not strike with the surface ofthe work without tea | the chork as its the weskest part ing hammer marks in the wood el Page 28Page HOW TO USE THE STANLEY SCREW DRIVERTo cut, horizontally, with the iain: ‘The chee! i held slight {fined to one side and thes pushed tram the worker. Iti feta withthe bevel down for a Toughing ‘cut and. with the Bevel up for a paring ext ‘To cut a straight, senting cor ner le the sate ae: horizontal chieling ‘The work i eld in the vise with the guide ine Horizontal mh ‘To outa chamfer: Hold the hel inclined to o2e side pst Alle te"the slope of the cham fee and cut as tn chiseling hor- Heontally with the ges HOW TO USE THE STANLEY CHISEL Law east: KEEP YOUR CHISEL SHARP See Charts for Grinding and Whetting Plane Irons, ‘The Same Charts Apply to Chisels. even Eoce Biase bes Gcurres tose Baer “he chisel concolled with he elt hand, pressing fn on se hurl and the wood. The power ss applied with the righ hand ‘The chite! is held siightly wursed t0\the edge slides across the sworkor the chisel is moved tothe right and leita itis advanced, {orgive a siding action tothe cating edge. Thin is easier than 4 frnight thrust and leaves a smpother surface on the work. “AT ALL Firs KEEP BOTH HANDS BACK OF THE CUT TING EI To cut a round cornee, the Chisel is moved sideways aerast the work making. 2eres of ute “lose together, each one tangent to the cur ‘To cut chamfer on end grain the ‘chisel iv moved sideways across the comer of the work, elo that the chisel makes 3 sliding horizontal et. ‘To cut, horizontally, across the grain with the work held in the vtey press the forefinger nd. thumb together on the hie to net ass brake ‘To avoid splintering the cor nets, cut halfway from cach age toward the center, ‘Re tnowe the center sock Tact ‘To cut across the grain with the work held against the bench hooky, the beel tthe left hand eadles the work while the Ss ers. press the chise) erly Sgainet the wood 1 the work in wide the chisel fa ‘held bevel down, 10 the Handle wil clear the work an sy the Blade will not dip in too deep, ae tis pushed forward‘To clean the corners of « Ten: on, ‘Note, Dado oc. Rabbet Grasp thecal by he ae, THE STANLEY CHISEL even Foe Bane ‘To cut, vertically, across the grain: (a) The cise] should be slightly tilted to one side Yo give a sid ing action to the cutting edge, or it may be held Stalght nd moved to ae side as it advanced. (G)IE the surface fa wider than the chisel, pat ofthe chisel pressed against the portion jost Cut helps to guide and keep in line the part of the hitel eating a new portion of the surtace. (e) Gut‘with the grain, a0 the waste wood wil spit away from the guide line ‘chisel edge and.one sd by the Fight band, 4 fdge is across the grain See Charts for Grinding and Whetting Plane Irons, How TO USE removed) KEEP YOUR CHISEL SHARP ‘When the edge is with the grin, the ‘eof the mallet fe tery ikely to wpe the wood. ‘The mallet may beased on the chisel to beat outa morte, fo cut the ends of & Mortise (when ‘he bulk-of the material hi wien the wood is hard nd Farge amount of material to b fen bored out), oughng out (when theee ts 6 ‘The Same Charts Apply to Chisels. tea ‘To cut, vertically, a santing corner ure the chine tthe sare tanner as th serial cutting ‘cross the grain Always work from the edge foward the end; so the wood will split away from the line Working from the end toward the edge will spit and fain the work, ar Ht cutting against the gf To eux » concave curved cor ee Hla the ve as of ths ‘hel Slag the otk wih Shaan; th he Wea pres down and Sow Sack athe sate, ging sweeping cived decent arta ‘Always work withthe gain from te ce tw te end.HOW TO USE HAND SAWS ABN ep Rip Saw Teeth are thaped like chisel. ‘They out like a gang of chises ina row. 3 7 ‘About 60° is the correct angle between the saw and the work lor ip saving Compass or Keyhole Sawn ate sed 10 cut curved oe straight sided ES aie ALTE the saw leaves the line, twist the handle slightly and draw it backto te ine B.It the saw is not squares to “the stock, bend it "a “ite and ‘adually straighten i. Be careful not to per mmanenty bend ot Kink the blade id er Start the saw cut by drawing the aw backward. “Hold the Blade square to. the Stock, “Steady iat the line with the seen Page 32 T ‘The Coping sned fo cut ivegular Ty lcueved pavers in thin wood, Cross Cut Teeth are like knife posnts ‘They cut ike two rows of knife potnts ind Coumble out the wood between the ‘About 45° i the correct angle between fhe saw andthe work for roms cut ‘The Back Saw is 2 snd intricate is, per inch Te ts hed "for Be ae Crate wore