Journal of Advanced Research in Mechanical Engineering (Vol.1-2010/Iss.

1)
Hadj Taieb et al. / A New Approach for Optimizing Mechanical Clothing … / pp. 43-51

A New Approach for Optimizing Mechanical

Clothing Tactile Comfort
A. Hadj Taieb*, S. Msahli*, F. Sakli*

* Department of textile, Textile Research Unit of ISET Ksar Hellal

B.P 68, Ksar Hellal 5070, Tunisia
tel/fax: +21673475163
e-mail: (amineht@yahoo.fr)

Submitted: 28/12/2010
Accepted: 04/02/2010
Appeared: 16/02/2010
HyperSciences.Publisher

Abstract—The clothing comfort is a multicriteria phenomenon that requires the simultaneous satisfaction
of several criteria. This study evaluates the possibility of using the mechanical properties of fabric
measured by FAST instruments to optimize the combination of primary handles. To achieve this
objective, mechanical characteristics are optimized by using the response surface methodology. This
graphical research is based on the contour plot of property affecting clothing comfort. In general, the
individual optima of these properties are contradictory for this reason it is necessary to search a
compromise zone for each comfort component by using the overlaid contour plot. In this survey,
thickness and fabric mass per unit area are the studied factors to optimize tactile comfort perception. The
compromise zone obtained in this survey, can be interpreted like an indication that permits to foresee if
the wished tactile clothing comfort is satisfied or not.
Keywords: Mechanical comfort, clothing comfort perception, Response Surface Method, thickness and
fabric mass per unit area.

NOMENCLATURE 1. INTRODUCTION
Symbol Meaning
Reaching the best solution, having the ideal performance are
W fabric weight in g/m2 some objectives of the research and especially where we are
E5 Extension to 4.9 N/m in % in front of a multicriteria phenomenon. The objective of the
multicretria optimization is to find the factor values that
E20 Extension to 19.6 N/m in % optimize simultaneously the set of the responses.
E100 Extension to 98.1 N/m in %
An ideal solution is to reach the best response at the same
EB5 Bias extension time, but in most cases, it remains exceptional (Phan-Tan-
C Bending length in µNm, calculated according to Luu R., 1993). Thus, the scientist looks for a compromise
the following formula: that has the tendency to satisfy the set of the expressed
objectives; this solution is the global optimisation.
B = W x C3 x 9.81 x 10-6 (1)
T2 Thickness at 0.196 kPa in mm Because the comfort is a subjective notion, it is difficult to
find an efficient method permitting to optimize this
T100 Thickness at 9.81 kPa in mm
perception in spite of attempts of some researchers. In fact,
ST Thickness of surface layer in mm calculated the textile industry lacks an objective approach for
according to the following formula: determining the comfort level. In this context, some
ST = T2 - T100 (2) researches were done to optimize some properties of the
textile material but a very few of them optimise a set of
G Shear rigidity in N/m, calculated according to properties in the same time (Lai, 2002; Wilson & Laing,
the following formula: 1995).
G = 123 / EB5 (3)
F Formability mm2, calculated according to the Besides, it is generally easier to determine the different
following formula: physical properties that affect the comfort separately. These
measured properties separately don't give a lot of information
F = ((E20 - E5) x B) / 14.7 (4) to the consumer when using the textile product, from where

Copyright © 2010 HyperSciences_Publisher. All rights reserved 43 www.hypersciences.org

 Journal of Advanced Research in Mechanical Engineering (Vol.1-2010/Iss.1)
Hadj Taieb et al. / A New Approach for Optimizing Mechanical Clothing … / pp. 43-51
the necessity of a global optimisation method by the measure
of different components of the clothing comfort (Li, 1998).
So in this survey we will propose graphic optimisation
approach, the ″Response Surface Methodology″ (RSM) that
can be used for the textile field and especially for optimising
the tactile comfort perception of the textile fabric considered
as a multicriteria phenomenon. We will focus on developing
optimising method for the tactile comfort level according to
mechanical fabric properties by finding the best combination
factors (thickness and fabric mass per unit area) to reach the
desired tactile comfort. In this paper discusses the role of
thickness and fabric mass per unit area on comfort
characteristics of fabrics.
Fabric is an assembly of yarns and/or fibers and is composed
of fibers and voidspaces (air) between fibers (Kawabata et
al., 1989). Textile fabrics can be grouped into three
categories: woven, knitted, and nonwoven (Li, 1998). Woven
and knitted fabrics are made from yarns. Obviously the hand
and comfort of these fabrics are determined by the properties
of yarns and the structure of the fabric (Kawabata, 2000).
The purpose of this research is thus to provide industry with
an additional metric whereby decisions can be made based
on values for fabric hand and comfort
2. STATE OF ART OF CLOTHING TACTILE COMFORT
Today, the principal criteria to the purchase of the textiles
are: comfort, fashion, maintenance and the practical side.
Therefore, a Design product should not develop only the
vision sense, which better appreciates the aesthetics and the
harmony, but will have to consider more and more the
Comfort of its user (Roach, 1994). Today comfort is
considered as fundamental property when a textile product is
valued.
The textile products and clothing have a great contact with
the human body. Thus, the designers, to satisfy the increase
of the necessities of the consumers, will have associate with
the Design the Total Comfort of the products. Total comfort
supposes subjective and objective properties which can be
evaluated by instruments psycho - physical, in order to find
the best compromise between the properties and the
requirements of the consumer. The comfort properties, in
their larger sense, require scientific knowledge which must
be present in the design of the textile products, to optimize
their performance. More than, the knowledge of the
properties, it is important to identify their influence on the
product comfort, the instruments and the methods available
to evaluate them (Cabeço Silva, 2008).
According to a literature (Das & Ishtiaque, 2004) the
clothing comfort can be divided into three groups:
psychological, tactile and thermal comfort. Psychological
comfort is mainly related to the aesthetic appeal, which
includes size, fit, colour, lustre, style, fashion compatibility,
etc. Thermal comfort is related to the ability of fabric to
maintain the temperature of skin through transfer of heat and
perspiration generated with the human body. Tactile comfort
44
has a relationship with fabric mechanical properties (Branson
and Sweeney, 1990).
The comfort characteristics of fabrics mainly depend on the
structure, types of raw materials used, weight, moisture
absorption, heat transmission and skin perception
(Dhinakaran et al., 2007). It depends on the hand properties
which are a very complex concept including dimensional
changes at small forces (tensile, shear, compression and
bending).
2.1 Tactile Comfort definition
Saville (Saville, 1999) reported that the skin sensational wear
comfort is based on the mechanical contact of the fabric with
the skin, it is softness and pliability in movement and its lack
of prickle, irritation and cling when damp.
In the literature, the two terms “fabric hand” and “comfort”
are used. To aid in an understanding of the difference in
meaning between these terms, the following definitions are
given:
- Hand can be defined as:
• The perceived overall aesthetic quality of a fabric;
• The quality of a fabric assessed by the sense of touch,
concerned with the subjective judgment of roughness,
smoothness, harshness, pliability, thickness, etc
(Dhinakaran et al., 2007);
• Implies evaluation of fabric reaction to different modes
of low stress deformation imposed by the human hand;
• Those components, qualities, attributes, dimensions,
properties or impressions which make the sensation of
touching one fabric different from that of touching.
- Comfort can be defined as:
• Phenomenon connected to individual physical and
psychic sensitivity;
• Freedom from pain and from discomfort, a neutral state.
In total, it is the psychological feeling of the wearer, given
certain environmental conditions and activities "
(Milenkovic, 1999);
• A performance parameter relating to the wearability of
the garment, encompassing such properties as wicking,
stretch, hand (Slater, 1985).
Given these definitions, it can be inferred that fabric hand is
used to describe the mechanical and physical properties of
fabric that give it its touch or feel characteristics. However,
comfort expands on this and includes the interaction of the
textile product with the physiological processes of the body
in such a way as to elicit either a positive or a negative
response.
 Journal of Advanced Research in Mechanical Engineering (Vol.1-2010/Iss.1)
Hadj Taieb et al. / A New Approach for Optimizing Mechanical Clothing … / pp. 43-51
Other definitions for textile terms related to clothing comfort
are listed below:
- Compressibility can be defined as the ease of squeezing.
- Extensibility can be defined as the ease of stretching.
- Extension can be defined as the increase in length of a
specimen during a tensile test, expressed as a percent of the
gauge length or nominal gauge length.
- Flexibility can be defined as the ease of bending.
2.2 Previous tactile comfort evaluations
For a long time, clothing comfort has been estimated by the
organoleptic method (Pontrelli, 1977, Chattaraman & Rudd,
2006, Fourt & Hollies, 1970, Hatch, 1993; Li, 2001). The
producers and users of flat textile products try to formulate in
words the impression of touching the flat textile product
(Kocik et al., 2005, Hollies et al., 1979).
But, now tactile comfort of apparels can be quantified in an
objective manner in terms of the fabric mechanical properties
which affect the "Fabric hand".
A fabric hand or handle depicts the way a fabric feels when it
is touched by human hand and gives an indication of texture
of the fabric. This property is a subjective sensory complex
sensation obtained by active manipulation of neural
sagaciousness of our hands that are sensitive of non-noxious
mechanical deformation play a key role in subjective
assessment of the fabric handle (Dhinakaran et al., 2007).
Different types of "touch" in differentiating the "fabric
handle" between wearing a garment and handling a fabric
have been reported in the literature. Heller (M A Heller and
W Schiff, 1991) discussed the differences between active and
passive tough and he distinguished 'synthetic touch' with
'analytic touch'. Another factor of hand is the texture, which
is the uniformity and variation of the surface that describes
its actual or implied features. Texture is a sensory perception
that covers various aspects of surface features of the fabrics
including visual, auditory and tactile perceptions and can be
described in ways such as smooth, rough, shiny or dull.
Among them, roughness is an important aspect, which has
been studied extensively and reported to have difference in
perception between touching with the fingers and feeling by
the skin during the wear.
The characterization of the tactile comfort of textile material
is certainly made possible by means of the KES, FAST, by
using mechanical properties but the interaction between
those properties is even more complex. In fact, a complex
effect of these properties characterizes the tactile textile
comfort properties (Hes, 2007).
In this survey, we will use a new approach for optimising the
subjective tactile wearing comfort from the objective
measurement of mechanical properties of fabric.
45
2.2.1 Subjective Testing
Subjective assessment of fabric hand traditionally formed the
basis of fabric evaluation for the textile and apparel
industries. Subjective assessments of fabric hand by human
judges rely on psychophysical approaches, a type of
psychology dealing with the relationship between physical
stimuli and sensory response. Though textile products are
eventually discriminated by the consumer using their own
individualized forms of subjective evaluation, this method as
an industry evaluation tool has many issues.
One of the issues with subjective evaluations is that there is a
large degree of variation associated with the procedures, with
companies often performing very informal evaluations. For
instance, accounts of managers sitting in a boardroom
rubbing fabrics as the sole subjective evaluation method for a
company leads to little control over test variables and poor
accuracy.
There are many varieties of subjective evaluations used in
companies and academia today. Subjective evaluations can
be generally broken down into two types, direct and
comparative. Direct, or absolute, methods are based on the
sorting of individual textiles according to a subjectively
defined ordinal grade scale (0-very poor, 6-excellent).
Comparative methods consist of an evaluator sorting
according to the subjective criteria of evaluation (ordering
from most pleasant hand to worst hand).
Despite the continued use of subjective evaluations, in some
form or another, there are a number of reasons why the
industry is moving towards objective measurements. These
include the increased automation in textile processes, the
need for “quick response” in this industry, and the
communication problems that arise with subjective
evaluation assessments of fabric attributes. The issues of the
loss and the necessary replacement of experienced judges
also contribute to the need for objective testing
instrumentation.
2.2.2 Objective Testing
The Fabric Objective Measurement can be used for various
purposes; the main ones are:
- fabric quality and hand;
- evaluation of the formability of fabrics and the appearance of
finished garments; creation of specific techniques to enable
the making-up industry to select fabrics, as well as for quality
and process control;
- comfort, performance and wear behaviour of fabrics.
In order to develop instrumentation for picking up
differences in fabrics relating to fabric hand and comfort, the
variables to be measured had to be defined. Peirce was the
first researcher to try to extract numerical values from the
elements comprising the physical sensations felt when
touching fabrics. A series of papers published in the 1930s
identified the properties of bending, lateral compression,
thickness, extension, and surface characteristics (surface
friction) as being significant to fabric handle.
 Journal of Advanced Research in Mechanical Engineering (Vol.1-2010/Iss.1)
Hadj Taieb et al. / A New Approach for Optimizing Mechanical Clothing … / pp. 43-51
Peirce stated that the density and stiffness of a fabric is
influenced by the raw material used and the count and twist
of the yarns, these being defined at early stages of
production. Additionally for woven fabrics, the amount and
type of warp size, the number of picks and ends, and warp
tension are influential (Peirce, 1930; Olofsson & Ogucki,
1966, Lindberg et al., 1960, Westerveld & Van Ktugten,
1967).
Based on the work of Peirce and others in isolating variables
for objective testing, there have been a number of attempts at
instrumentation to quantify handle by simple methods.
Examples include the Thwing-Albert/Clupak Fabricometer
and Handle-o-Meter, as well as the King Fabric Stiffness
Tester.
These methods were soon overshadowed, however, by the
Kawabata Evaluation System and the FAST System
Kawabata et al., 1973, De Boos & Tester, 1991). In this
study we will use the FAST System.
An important impulse in the Fabric Objective Measurement
was given the Australian CSIRO who designed and
developed the FAST set of instruments, which, in terms of
practicality and testing speed, go a long way towards meeting
the requirements of garment makers and finishers. An
interesting aspect of the use of such instrumentation, which
throughout the ages has become increasingly widespread in
the finishing and garment-making sectors, is to study the
possibility of using it for the evaluation of fabric hand values.
3. METHOD AND MATERIAL
3.1 Material: SiroFAST for measuring mechanical fabric
properties
SiroFAST, or Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing, is a set of
instruments and test methods for the measurement of those
properties that relate to the performance of fabrics in garment
manufacture and appearance of garments after manufacture
and in wear. It measures mainly the mechanical properties of
fabric that can be used to predict performance in garment
manufacture and the appearance of the garments in wear (De
Boos & Tester, 1991).
Several measurements are required to fully describe tensile,
shear or bending behaviour of fabric. Those used to describe
resistance to deformation are normally considered to be the
most important. The deformations involved are represented
in Figure 1.
Fig. 1. Schematic diagram of deformations important in
garment manufacture
46
We can also add another mechanical property: the
"Formability" which is defined using the in-plane
compressibility of fabric (Postle, 1983).
The FAST system was designed by the Commonwealth
Scientific and Industrial Research Organization of Australia
(CSIRO) as a system for measuring fabric properties at low
stress. These low stresses were created to simulate the type
of stresses that fabric would be subjected to in the process of
garment making. t the tailorability of worsted fabrics. The
FAST system consists of three simple instruments for testing
fabric mechanical.
3.1.1 FAST-1 Compression Meter
CSIRO developed an instrumental test to measure the
compression and surface layer properties of fabrics, and also
to observe how stable these properties are to the rigors of
finishing processes. Thus a test was developed to measure
thickness, and also the variability and durability of the
surface layer.
FAST-1 measures the thickness of a fabric under two fixed
loads, T2 (2 gf/cm^2) and T100 (100 gf/cm^2). The
difference in fabric thickness at the two loads is defined as
fabric surface thickness, and this gives information about the
bulk or the hairiness of a particular fabric. Figure 2 is a
visual description of this fabric property.
Fig. 2. FAST-1 Thickness Measurement [JAI95].
3.1.2 FAST-2 Bending Meter
FAST-2 measures two bending properties of a fabric, fabric
bending length and fabric bending rigidity. Bending length is
related to the ability of a fabric to drape, and bending rigidity
is related more to the quality of stiffness felt when the fabric
is touched or handled.
FAST-2 is a bending meter which works on the cantilever
principle, meaning a fabric strip is pushed over a vertical
edge until it has bent under its own weight to a specified
angle, in this case 41.5° from the horizontal. The instrument
uses photocells to detect the edge of the fabric and the
bending length; thus calculating the bending rigidity based
on the bending length and the fabric weight. Figure 3 depicts
this principle:
 Journal of Advanced Research in Mechanical Engineering (Vol.1-2010/Iss.1)
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Fig. 3. FAST-2 Cantilever Bending (4).
Values for Bending Rigidity can be combined with FAST-3
extension results to obtain a measure of fabric formability.
Fabric formability in this test method is related to the
potential for seam pucker.
3.1.3 FAST-3 Extension Meter
The ability of a fabric to stretch or give at low loads is
critical to garment and other sewn products’ making-up
procedures. FAST-3 is an extensibility meter, providing a
direct measure of fabric extension under selected loads.
Warp, weft and bias directions are tested on woven fabrics
strips. Warp and weft strips are subjected to three loads (5,
20, and 100 gf/cm). Bias strips are used to calculate shear
rigidity and are subjected to only 5 gf/cm load.
The ability of a two-dimensional fabric to form a three-
dimensional product is related to the ability of the fabric to
be sheared in its plane. This is characterized by shear
rigidity, a parameter derived from bias extensibility. Fabric
formability is another derived parameter, relating to values
for extensibility at two loads and bending rigidity. This
parameter was introduced by the work of Lindberg et al., and
it is used to mean the amount of compression that is allowed
by a fabric in a certain direction before the fabric starts to
buckle (as shown in figure 4). As a tailoring parameter, it
related to the amount of overfeed possible in eased seams
(sleeve cap, neckline).
In the testing, specimens are gripped between two parallel
sets of jaws and extended by any of three different loads.
These loads are 5, 20, or 100 gf/cm. The instrument then
measures the new gauge length of the jaws and the extension
is described as a percentage.
Fig. 4. FAST-3 Extension.
47
The instrument uses a balance principle, with only the
bottom jaw moving as a result of the loads. The removable
weights are supported on the opposite end of the balance arm
from the specimen. As the test progresses weights are
removed from the balance arm, and when the locking knob is
released, specimens are subjected to a greater gravitational
pulling force. The gauge length is monitored by sensors, and
when an audible beep is heard, extension is displayed as a
percentage of fabric extension.
3. 2. Method: Response Surface Methodology
The Response Surface methodology (RSM) is used to
improve the performance of the processes and products
(Goupy J., 1988). The principle of the graphic method
consists in giving for every response an objective and an
acceptance zone and then we graphically look for the zones
that answer the criteria.
Contour and surface plots are useful for establishing
desirable response values and operating conditions. In a
contour plot, the response surface is viewed as a two-
dimensional plane where all points that have the same
response are connected to produce contour lines of constant
responses as represented in the figure 5.
Fig. 5. Example of contour plot.
In general, the individual optima of the properties are
contradictory and it will be necessary to search a zone of
compromise. These diagrams are called overlaid contour plot
and are obtained by using data analysis software (Sergent M.
et al, 1995). For each response, we need to define a low and
a high contour. These contours should be chosen depending
on the goal for the responses. The goal is to have the
response fall between these two values.
A response is optimized if the obtained value is equal to the
objective value. Taguchi introduced three types of objectives
to determine the quality of response in relation to the
characteristic of the factors:
- Larger is better: The objective is to get the biggest value of
a response; we say that we have a response to maximize.
- Smaller is better: The objective is to get the smallest value
of a response, we say that we have a response to minimize.
 Journal of Advanced Research in Mechanical Engineering (Vol.1-2010/Iss.1)
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- Target is better: The objective is to get a precise value Table 1. Target Values and limits of studied comfort
which is the target response value. In this case the response properties.
must be centred on the target value. Property Objective Min Target Max
Surface thickness ST
After finding the contour plot of each response, we Minimise 0.2 0.4
(mm)
superimposed these diagrams to get the overlaid contour plot Extensibility E (%) Maximize 3 4
of the different responses, in order to find compromise
zones. So, we tried to find graphically the domains in which Bending rigidity B (µNm) Minimize 30 80
the response will be in the tolerance intervals. An example of Shear stiffness G (N/m) Minimize 30 40
the overlaid contour plot is represented in the figure 6. In this Formability F (mm2) Maximize 1,2 2
diagram the white zone represents the compromise zone
where all responses are in the objective that means all the In this survey, we have used five different denim cotton
responses are satisfied. fabrics. In table 2, we present the properties of studied fabric.

We can use an overlaid contour plot to draw contour plots Table 2. Properties of studied fabric construction.
for multiple responses and to overlay multiple contour plots
on top of each other in a single graph. Property Fabric 1 Fabric 2 Fabric 3 Fabric 4 Fabric 5
Weft Yarn
22 27 25 23 21
density
Warp Yarn
17 22 20 19 18
density
Weft yarn
42 48 45 50 47
count (Tex)
Warp yarn
55 60 57 63 65
count (Tex)
Weft yarn
105 115 108 106 114
twist factor
Warp yarn
95 102 101 95 101
twist factor
Thickness
0.85 0.95 0.98 0.87 0.98
(mm)
Fig. 6. Example of overlaid contour plot.
Weight
268 313 307.5 277.8 300
(g/m²)
The white area inside each plot shows the range of factors
where the criteria for response variables are satisfied. The results of the different mechanical properties measured
by the FAST System for the tested fabrics are represented in
According to Morris (Morris, 1953), the fabric thickness and table 3.
fabric mass per unit area are the most important factors
governing the comfort perception. That’s why, in this study, Table 3. Measured mechanical comfort properties.
we will study these two factors to find the best compromise
Property Fabric 1 Fabric 2 Fabric 3 Fabric 4 Fabric 5
for the tactile clothing comfort.
ST 0.25 0.28 0.26 0.27 0.27
The used method is to evaluate the subjective wearing tactile E 3.8 3.25 2.6 3.6 2.5
comfort from the objective measurement of mechanical
B 48 63 55 61 54
properties of fabric. Compromise zone for the mechanical
comfort component was defined to optimise this tactile G 35 44 37 46 46
clothing comfort perception. In order to define this F 1.25 0.3 0.34 1.29 0.35
compromise comfort zone, different fabric properties such as
surface thickness, bending, shear stiffness, formability, and According to table 6, The surface thickness (ST) varies
extensibility were evaluated. between 0,25 mm and 0,29 mm. The fabric 5 has the higher
(ST) because it has the warp and weft yarn with the greater
4. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION fineness difference.

The target value and limits of different properties affecting
the studied tactile comfort are represented in the table 1. In
most case, the use of standard performance comfort
specifications is voluntary. Many manufacturers will
establish their own performance comfort specifications. The
desirable level fabric performance comfort is defined in
terms of the intended end use and, ultimately, by the user.
Fabrics having the highest Bending rigidity are the stiffer. In
our case, this property varies between 48 µNm and 63 µNm.
The fabric n°1 has a bending rigidity equal to 48 µNm which
is the lowest one. This can be due to the lowest density of
yarn. Moreover, the thickness and mass per unit area of the
material also influence the stiffness, generally when the
thickness and mass per unit area are high, the bending
stiffness is high. In our case, the fabric 1 which has the lower
bending stiffness has the lowest mass per unit area.

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mass per unit area (around 300 g / m²), with the higher
Concerning the extensibility values it varies from 2.5% to thickness.
3.8%. The fabric No. 1 has the highest extensibility; it is
probably due to that low level of yarn twist which facilitates
the extension.

Regarding the property of shear, the values of shear rigidity

range from 35 to 46 N / m. Fabric No. 1 has the lowest shear
( 35 N / m) due to the low yarn density.

For the formability values, it ranges from 0.3 to 1.29 mm ².

The fabric No. 2 has the lowest formability (F = 0.3), while
the fabric No. 4 has the highest formability (F = 1.29) which
is due to the low twist factor facilitating and deformation.

The contour plots for properties affecting mechanical

comfort (Surface thickness, extensibility, shear stiffness,
bending rigidity and Formability) are represented in the
figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11.
Fig. 9. Contour plot of extensibility versus weight and
thickness.
According to figure 9, the values of the highest extensibility
are obtained for the lowest thickness. While the lowest
extensibility values are obtained with fabric having the
highest thickness.

Fig. 7. Contour plot surface thickness versus weight and

thickness.

According to figure 7, the lowest values of the surface

thickness (less than 0.20 mm) were obtained for a weight Fig. 10. Contour plot of formability versus weight and
around 300 g / m² and a thickness around 0.85 mm thickness

Fig. 11. Contour plot of shear stiffness versus weight and

Fig. 8. Contour plot of bending rigidity versus weight and
thickness.
thickness.
According to figure 11, the shear stiffness is obtained for
According to figure 8, the lowest values of bending stiffness
fabrics with the highest mass per unit area (around 310
(below 20 µN.m) are obtained for a weight of about 270 g /
g/m2).
m² and a thickness around 0.98 mm.
In general, the individual optima of the thermal properties
According to figure 10, the highest formability is obtained
are contradictory and it will be necessary to search a
for fabrics with the lowest thickness around 0.84 mm. On the
compromise zone. So, after finding the contour plot of each
other hand, the lowest formability is obtained for the highest

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response, we superimposed these diagrams to get the
overlaid contour plot of the different studied fabric properties
affecting thermal comfort. This overlaid contour plot permits
to find compromise tactile comfort zones and the best factor
values (thickness and fabric mass per unit area) that optimise
the mechanical tactile clothing comfort. So, we tried to find
graphically the domains in which the fabric properties
affecting tactile clothing comfort will be in the tolerance
intervals. In this diagram the white zone represents the
compromise zone where all properties are in the objective
that means all the properties compromise is satisfied (K.
Yang et al, 2004).
The result of the overlaid contour plot is represented in the
figure 12 for the mechanical clothing comfort component.
Fig. 12. Overlaid Contour plot of clothing mechanical
comfort properties.
For the studied fabrics and for the definition of mechanical
tactile comfort as represented in table 4, figure 12 presents a
white zone for satisfying studied mechanical comfort fabric
properties. According to this figure, the optimal parameters
of thickness and weight, need to be respectively belonging to
[0,90; 0,92] and [295; 315].
5. CONCLUSION
In this study we tried to optimize the mechanical tactile
clothing comfort which is a multicriteria phenomenon. This
approach takes into account the fabric end uses by defining
the targets and limits of each property.
This optimisation is achieved by the Response Surface
Methodology that takes into account different properties
affecting the comfort perception by integrating acceptances
intervals of every property affecting clothing comfort. The
intervals of tolerances can change according to the textile
products end uses.
The (RSM) permits us to find the compromise zones to
optimize different parameters affecting the tactile clothing
comfort perception, like in this survey the thickness and
fabric mass per unit area. For the studied denim cotton
fabric, the best clothing tactile comfort compromise is
50
obtained at thickness and fabric weight respectively
belonging to [0,90; 0,92] and [295; 315].
This new approach will provide a tool using graphical
method to assess the contribution comfort factors. Thus, the
producer will have a mean that allows him, according to the
targeted consumer, to adjust his product in order to reach the
wished tactile comfort.
Others clothing comfort components, according to the end
uses product, can also be evaluated by this method.
REFERENCES
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Lai, S.S., (2002), Objective Evaluation for the Comfort of
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Li, Y., (1998), Wool sensory properties and product applications and process by using solar energy. He is also the responsible of
development, Textile Asia, 1998, Vol. XXIX, 5, p: 35 – the metrology laboratory in the Technical institute of Ksar Hellel in Tunisia.
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Li, Y., (2001), Textile progress Volume 31, Number ½, ISSN Slah MSAHLI, Doctor graduated from the ENSITM in France. President of
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0040-5167, The science of clothing comfort, Applied Textile 2008 in Tunisia. His research interest covers the
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Maureen M. Sweeney, Donna H. Branson, (1990), Sensorial
Comfort, Part I: A Psychophysical Method for Assessing Faouzi SAKLI, Professor and Doctor graduated from ENSITM of Mulhouse
– France, Director of the textile research unit in Tunisia. His research
Moisture Sensation in Clothing, Textile Research interest covers the technology in the textile field from fiber to finished
Journal, Vol. 60, No. 7, pp. 371-377. product. He was the director of the technopark of Monastir in Tunisia. He is
Milenkovic, L, (1999), Comfort Properties of Defense also the conference chairman of the International conference of applied
Protective Clothing, The Scientific Journal Facta research in Textile in Tunisia.
Univesitiatis, Working and Living Environmental
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