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Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Zurich
December 2016 - January 2017

Winter Delights
Christmas markets,
fondue cruises
and thermal baths

FREE COPY
inyourpocket.com
N°38
Hol d
und p
Contents
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Arriving & Getting Around 6

City Basics 8

History 11

Culture & Events 12


Concerts, shows and exhibitions

Christmas 15
Markets, shows and glühwein

Quick picks 17
There are a handful of Christmas markets in the city, like
The editors’ favourites on one page Christkindlimarkt seen here. Find Christmas attractions like markets
and holiday shows in our feature on p. 15. OK Christkindlimarkt
Restaurants 18
Fine dining, cheesy treats and much more
Sightseeing 34
Cafés 28 Churches, murals and museums
Chocolate, coffee and conversation
Shopping 41
Nightlife 29 Fancy fashion and Swiss design
Bars, pubs and clubs
Watches & Jewellery 48
Zurich Nord 33
Restaurants and bars in the north of the city Zurich for kids 52
Major fun for minor citizens

Leisure 54
Laser tag, escape rooms and zoos

Winter joys 55
Fondue trams, ice skating and ski resorts

Queer Zurich 57

Hotels 58

Maps & Index


City map 62-64
Thermal baths and hammams like the Stadtbad pictured here are Index 65
especially pleasant in winter. Check out our Winter Joys chapter Public transport map 66
(p. 55) for winter activities in the city and further afield. PD

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welcome to fashion paradise


L ö w e n s t r a s s e 4 0 - Z üri ch Oberdorfstrasse 25 - Zürich

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Foreword
Imagine the tempting scent of hot mulled wine and
Publisher
raclette cheese gently wafting through the air and the pocket publishing GmbH
sound of children’s choirs singing merry Yuletide carols Wuhrstrasse 15, 8003 Zürich
on a vertical stage that resembles a Christmas tree. Picture tel. (+41) 32 510 85 76
handmade candles, wooden toys and wonderful gifts of zurich@inyourpocket​​​​​​​​​​​.com
all kinds at decorated stalls manned by local craftspeople www.inyourpocket.ch
eager to sell their wares. Over the last decade or so, Member of Zürich Tourism / Spirit Club
picturesque Christmas markets and festive events to mark Yearly print run: 180 000 (6 x 30 000)
the holiday season have popped up all over Zurich. The ISSN 1663-9944
© pocket publishing GmbH 2016
latest addition is the Wienachtsdorf at Bellevue featured on
this issue’s cover that’s open for only the second year in a Editorial
row, yet already a must-see. Editors Lukas Füglister, Chris Young, Mārtiņš Zaprauskis;
While still not exactly a classic Christmas destination, the Research MBS-crew; Layout & Maps Tomáš Haman;
Photos Juan Rubiano (www.juanrubiano.com),
markets and concerts certainly make Zurich a worthwhile Zurich In Your Pocket (ZIYP), Zurich Tourism: Caroline
place to visit at this time of the year. There are also no Minjolle (CM), Bruno Macor (BM), Christian Dietrich (CD),
less than three temporary ice rinks in the city centre (see Alex Buschor
p.16), although Live on Ice in the courtyard of the National Cover © Zurich Tourism, Alex Buschor
Museum, which includes light installations by artist Gerry
Hofstetter, is probably the most impressive of the lot. And Sales & Circulation
General Manager Lukas Füglister
if you don’t find the gifts you’re looking for at the market Sales Manager Susi Haefeli, tel. (+41) 32 511 28 68,
stalls, Zurich has plenty of other shopping opportunities susi.haefeli@inyourpocket.com
(see p. 41) like Bahnhofstrasse, the city’s most prestigious Ad rates at www.inyourpocket.ch,
address for retail therapy. closing date next issue: January 11, 2017
But Christmas isn’t just about buying gifts, so if you’d like Copyright notice & Editor’s note
to get into the spirit of things, try one of the festive holiday Text and maps copyright pocket publishing GmbH (unless
shows like the Conelli Christmas circus or the artistic Salto otherwise stated). Photos copyright photographers. All rights
Natale show . You can also escape the frantic pre-Christmas reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in
pace by making your own candles at the Kerzenziehen at any form without written permission from the copyright
Bürkliplatz. You’ll find more remarkable Yuletide tips in our owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license
from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
Christmas feature on p. 15. tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Whatever you choose to do, we hope you enjoy your stay in The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
Zurich this winter and we wish you a Merry Christmas and from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
all the best in 2017! ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.

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4 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com


MY LITTLE PIECE OF
SWITZERLAND TO GO.
Arriving & Getting Around
ARRIVING BY PLANE ARRIVING BY BUS
Zurich International Airport (ZRH) lies 13 kilometres Buses from many European countries arrive at the bus
north of the city centre in Kloten and handles around 700 station (Bus Terminal Sihlquai, E‑1), two minutes walk north
flights a day going to over 170 destinations worldwide. from the main train station (close to track 18). There are no
You can find ATMs and switzerlandinfo desks at Arrival domestic long-distance coaches. Zurich sightseeing buses
1 and Arrival 2 just after you pass customs. There you can start here as well.
find free copies of Zurich In Your Pocket. There is a big public
shopping area with most shops open from 08:00 - 21:00
(groceries from 06:00 - 23:00) and a free Wi-fi for the first ARRIVING BY CAR
120 minutes, just connect your device to ’ZurichAirport’. The Swiss highways A1, A2, A3 and A4 lead from all
directions to Zurich and if you follow the signs to Zurich
City the city centre is quite easy to reach. But parking is
scarce and very expensive. For overnight parking you can
try to find a slot in the so-called blue zone in residential
areas - parking there is free from 19:00 - 08:00, indicate your
arrival time on your parking disk.
Driving in Switzerland is generally easy. If you’re using the
motorways you have to buy a vignette for 40Sfr. Remember
that trams always have right of way, as well as pedestrians
on zebra-crossings without traffic lights.
The view down Bahnhofstrasse to the main train station or ‘HB’. The legal blood alcohol limit for drivers is 0.05%, which
Matthias Villiger
should allow you to have roughly one glass of beer before
To get to town: The easiest and fastest way to get to and ­driving. The standard speed limit is 50km/h in urban
from the airport is by train. Catch a train at the underground areas, 80km/h outside towns and 120km/h on motorways.
train station near terminals 1 and 2 - if the sign on the In residential zones in Zurich, the speed limit is often
platform reads Zürich HB (HB = Hauptbahnhof = main
station), it’s the right train. Up to ten trains leave an hour and
the journey takes roughly ten minutes. Tickets can be bought
at the counters or at the ticket machines (switch them to
TAXI SMARTS
English on the first screen) next to the stairs leading down Taxis in Zurich are in general clean, safe, reliable - and
to the platforms. A ticket for an adult is 6.80Sfr and valid for expensive. It‘s usually easy to get one, even in rush
one hour in the whole city (3 zones). If you plan to do more hours. The city sets the following maximum prices for
travelling by public transport, make it a 24-hour ticket for just taxis: initial fee 8Sfr, 5Sfr per kilometre, 80Sfr per hour.
twice the price or consider buying a ZürichCARD (see p. The actual fees have to be displayed on the door of the
37). A taxi ride to central Zurich costs around 60Sfr. Official car. In theory, there is free competition, but actually
taxi stands are just outside Arrivals 1 and 2. almost only two prices exist: the maximum fee and the
lower one most companies charge (incl. the two listed
Tram N°10 takes you from the airport via Oerlikon to Zurich below): initial fee (Basis on the sticker) 6Sfr, 3.80Sfr per
main station as well. The journey takes 37 minutes, same kilometre (Distanz), 69Sfr per hour (Wartezeit). When
tickets as for the trains are valid. taking a taxi from a stand, check the prices on their
door and take the cheapest one available. Yes, you are
ARRIVING BY TRAIN free to take any taxi on a stand and they are obliged to
take you even for short rides. Taxi drivers have to and
Zurich’s main train station, referred to by locals as HB (short usually do use their metres. You‘ll find taxis at official taxi
for Hauptbahnhof, say haa-bay), is right in the centre of the stands, those often being the expensive ones. Especially
city. All international and domestic trains leave and arrive at the main train station there are often no cheap taxis
here. From the platforms just follow the herd towards the available. You can hail taxis from the streets as well. The
main hall, where you will find the main exit towards the ridesharing service Uber also operates in Zurich. You
city centre, the ticket offices and the tourist information can order your private driver easily over an app on your
(called Tourist Service, see p. 10). Trams, buses and taxis smartphone. Fares are usually significantly cheaper than
leave just outside the station. standard taxi fares (initial fee 3-6Sfr, 1.35 - 3.60Sfr per
At the ticket office in the main hall you can buy train kilometre, 0.30 - 0.60Sfr per minute, higher if demand is
tickets (also available at the many ticket machines), tickets higher). Find more information on www.uber.com.
for public transport in Zurich and also change money. For
time tables and tickets refer to www.sbb.ch or call (+41) TAXI 444Qtel. (+41) 44 444 44 44, www.taxi444.ch.
900 300 300 (1.19Sfr/min) or download the app ‘SBB TAXI 7x7Qtel. (+41) 44 777 77 77, www.7x7.ch.
Mobile’ to your smartphone..
6 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Arriving & Getting Around
30km/h. Fines are high and yes, Switzerland has
SWISS MADE GRAPHIC WATCHES
agreements with many European countries to make sure
you pay the fine even if you have a foreign number plate.
You may use your home driving license in Switzerland as
long as it is valid.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
City transport
Zurich’s public transport network includes trams, buses,
local trains and even ships on the lake and the river.
The ticket system is fairly simple: the regional network is
divided into zones. You don’t buy tickets for a trip, but rather
for a zone. The network of the city of Zurich is zone number
110 (see map p. 66). Tickets are valid in the chosen zones
on all kinds of transportation. For ships on Lake Zurich and
the River Limmat a 5Sfr. supplement to any valid ticket is
required. Send a text message from your mobile with the
word ‘ZSG-SZ’ to 388 to purchase the supplement by phone
(5Sfr. per message). A day pass for the city (zone 110) valid
for 24 hours will cost you 8.80Sfr, a single ticket valid for one
hour 4.40Sfr. Children up to five travel for free, 6 - 16 year-
olds pay the so-called half-fare (which is actually 3.10Sfr).
These tickets can be purchased at the ticket machines you
find at almost every stop (most take credit cards). Note that
Uetliberg and the airport are not within zone 110. If you
get caught without a valid ticket, you’ll be fined 90Sfr. For
more advice on public transport go to the VBZ Ticketerias
situated at larger tram stops throughout the city.
Another option is the ZürichCARD (24Sfr/24hrs,
48Sfr/72hrs), which is valid for zone 110 as well as between
the airport and the city and it also gives you free admission
to many museums. The ZürichCARD is available at most
ticket machines, VBZ Ticketerias and at Tourist Information.
See p. 37 for more information.
Public transport in Zurich runs roughly from 05:00 - 00:30.
There are night buses all night from Friday to Saturday and
from Saturday to Sunday to all parts of the town. Most of
them start at Bellevue and pass by Central and Escher-Wyss
Platz. They require a 5Sfr supplement to any valid ticket.
Send a text message from your mobile with the word ’NZ’ THE NEW HOME
to 988 to purchase the supplement by phone.
OF FOOTBALL
Trains
The train network is best for getting around Switzerland
HISTORY
quickly and in comfort. For timetables visit www.sbb.ch.
Tickets are sold at vending machines (switch them to
English on the first screen) and at the counters in the main
hall of Zurich’s main train station.
FIFA World
BICYCLES Football Museum
Seestrasse 27
ZÜRI ROLLT - BIKES FOR FREE 8002 Zurich
Bikes to borrow for free - all you need is an ID and 20Sfr as www.fifamuseum.com
deposit. The Velostation Süd is in containers close to track
3, just outside the station. The northern one is close to track
18. QE‑1, Hauptbahnhof / Velostation Nord & Süd, tel.
(+41) 43 288 34 45, www​.zuerirollt​.ch. Nord open daily
08:00 - 21:30, Süd 08:00 - 19:30, Sat & Sun closed.
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132-00316005_Anz_ZIYP_60x90_ZS_en_Version Juni_Juli_hgs.indd
19.05.2016
1 09:18:45
City Basics
BASIC DATA DRINKING
The drinking age in Switzerland is 16 for wine and beer and
Area 18 for spirits and alcopops. The standard sizes for beer are
Switzerland: 41285 km² the 0.3 litre Stange (pronounce: shtang-eh) and the 0.5 litre
Zurich (Canton): 1729 km² Grosses (gro-sus). The long-standing medium-scale brewers are
Zurich (City): 92 km² increasingly getting competition from innovative local brewers.
Population Check out Sprint, Paul, Chopfab or Appenzeller for instance.
Switzerland: 8 million Swiss wines are also not to be underestimated. While the
Zurich (city): 405,000 best may come from further south, you’ll find some very good
Blauburgunders (red) and Riesling Sylvaners (white) from the
Official languages Zurich region.
Switzerland: German, French, Italian, Romansh
Zurich: German
ELECTRICITY
Local time Electricity in Switzerland is 230 V, 50 Hz AC. Plug sockets
Central European (GMT+1h) are round and take three round pins - they can take
Europlugs with two pins. If you are coming from the US, UK
or Ireland you definitely need an adaptor - as well as from
CUSTOMS many other countries.
Switzerland is not a member of the European customs
union. On the one hand that gives you the opportunity to
buy real tax-free goods at airports when you are travelling HEALTH & EMERGENCY
from and to Switzerland. On the other hand there are tight Emergency telephone numbers (operators usually speak
restrictions on the goods you can take free of customs duty basic English):
from Switzerland to your country. For EU-countries the
following customs and tax allowances apply (for other Ambulance: 144
countries check with the according customs authorities): Police: 117
Fire brigade: 118
If you need medical attention, there are several walk-in
medical centres, like Permanence at the main railway
station (facing Bahnhofstrasse), where you just pull a ticket
and wait your turn (+41 44 215 44 44, Bahnhofplatz 15, open
07:00 - 22:00) or mediX (+41 44 298 50 50, Badenerstrasse
41, open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 18:00). Zurich also has
three public hospitals with walk-in emergency units which
are open 24 hours a day for urgent matters.
EMERGENCY UNIT UNIVERSITÄTSSPITAL
QG‑2, Rämistrasse 100, 8ETH / Universitätsspital,
tel. (+41) 44 255 11 11. Open 24 hrs.

USEFUL ZURICH APPS


A view across Zurich to Uetliberg and the Albis mountains. ZIYP Our own app, In Your Pocket City Essentials, features
only our favourite places in Zurich (and many other cities).
Tobacco: 200 (50 to some countries) cigarettes or 100 (20) Just as useful is the map, which is also available offline. It’s
cigarillos or 50 (10) cigars or 250 g (50) of smoking tobacco. available for free on both iOS and Android. To download,
simply go to iyp.me/app on your smartphone or scan
Alcohol: 1 litre of spirits over 22% vol or 2 litres of spirits the QR code on the front cover of this guide.
with less than 22% vol, 4 litres of still wine, 16 litres of beer.
The free app ZVV-Fahrplan provides real time door-
Other goods: Max value of all goods: 430 euros for air to-door timetable information for all public transport
travellers and 300 euros for other travellers. within the ZVV network in the canton of Zurich. It also
Goods over these limits must be declared when entering tells you where the nearest stop is, and how to get
an EU-country, additional taxes and VAT may apply. from A to B. And it’s available in English. With the free
ZVV-Tickets app you can buy tickets on the fly, quickly
In Switzerland there is duty-free shopping for arriving and easily (App store and Google Play).
passengers at airports.
8 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
City Basics
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Here are some typical Swiss German words - it will be
always appreciated if you use a few Swiss words. The ‘r‘
The best Zurich
in Swiss German is rolled, the ‘ch’ is pronounced like in
the Scottish loch. Mind your throat. has to offer
Hello (formal)
Goodbye (formal)
Grüezi
Adieu
(groo-e-tsi)
(as in French) in one great app
Thank you Merci (mersi)
Sorry! Entschuldigung! (ent-shooldi-goong)
Excuse me! Exgüsi! (ex-gewsi)
Switzerland D’Schwyz (t’shviiits)
Cheers! Zum Wohl! (tsoom vol)
Zurich Züri (tsoori)

EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL TRIEMLI


QBirmensdorferstrasse 497, 8Triemli, tel. (+41) 44
466 11 11. Open 24 hrs.

EMERGENCY UNIT STADTSPITAL WAID


QK‑4, Tièchestrasse 99, 8Bucheggplatz, tel. (+41) 44
366 20 55. Open 24 hrs.

Pharmacies
To find out where the next pharmacy (Apotheke in German)
on duty is, call (+41) 900 55 35 55 (1.50 Sfr/min). The
pharmacy at Bellevue is always open 24 hrs (Theaterstrasse
14, (+41) 44 266 62 22).

LANGUAGE
Switzerland has four official languages: German (spoken
by 64%), French (20%), Italian (6.5%) and Romansh (0.5%).
Zurich lies in the German speaking part of the country,
where people speak a German dialect, so called Swiss
German or Schwyzerdütsch. Be it among friends, at work
or when dealing with the authorities, people speak dialect.
However, Swiss people use standard German, so-called
Hochdeutsch, when writing and speaking at school.
City Essentials
MAIL & PHONE Only our favourite places
Post: Swiss post is generally reliable and also can take care
of all your financial transactions. The Sihlpost is the one
Works offline, incl. maps
with the longest opening hours (see below). Free download
Dialling: Switzerland’s calling code is +41. Zurich’s code is Incl. dozens of other cities
(0)44 or (0)43. We list the country code before all telephone
numbers in parentheses. Of course you only have to use
this if you are dialling from abroad. If you are already in www.iyp.me/app
Switzerland, just ignore the (+41) prefix, dial 0 and then the
nine-digit number.

SIHLPOST Zurich‘s central post office, open until late. Take


E S S E N TI A L
a ticket and wait for your turn. QD‑2, Kasernenstrasse 97, C I TY G U I D E S
8Sihlpost, tel. (+41) 848 888 888. Open 06:30 - 22:30,
Sat 06:30 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:30.
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City Basics
NATIONAL HOLIDAYS @InYourPocket
January 1 New Year
January 2 Berchtold Day (local)
April 14, 2017 Good Friday RELIGION
April 17, 2017 Easter Monday The Swiss are traditionally either Roman Catholic (42%)
April 24, 2017 Sechseläuten (Zurich only) or Protestant (35%). The largest (and quite new) minority
May 1 Labour Day (Zurich only) religious community are Muslims (4%). Zurich is traditionally
May 25, 2017 Ascension Protestant, due to the ardent reformator Zwingli who put
June 5, 2017 Whit Monday an end to partying here in the 16th century. But his grip has
August 1 National Holiday loosened somewhat in recent decades.
September 12, 2017 Knabenschiessen (Zurich only)
December 25 Christmas
SAFETY
Zurich is a safe city, and in fact there is no no-go area,
MONEY even for single travellers at night. Be on guard against
The currency and legal tender of Switzerland is the Swiss pickpockets just as in any European city.
franc (Sfr), which is divided in 100 rappen. There are
banknotes of 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 1000 francs. The
coins in use are 1, 2 and 5 francs as well as 5, 10, 20 and SMOKING
50 rappen.You can change your money at the SBB change The legal age for smoking is 16. Smoking in public buildings
at the main railway station or any of the banks. Or just and transport is illegal. However, restaurants and bars are
withdraw Swiss francs with your Maestro or your Plus card allowed to have a separate smoking room (fumoir).
from one of the ubiquitous ATMs. Credit cards are widely
accepted - both in shops and restaurants. Service is always
included. At a restaurant however, if you were happy with VISAS
the service, leave 5-10% of the bill as a tip. For a stay of up to three months, many foreigners simply
need a passport or an ID card to enter Switzerland. Even
though not a member of the European Union, Switzerland
is a member of the Schengen Agreement. As a result a
Schengen visa is valid for Switzerland as well. Always check
these details with a Swiss embassy or consulate.

TOURIST SERVICE
Zurich Tourism’s Tourist service is conveniently located
in the main hall of the main train station. This is a
one-stop solution for all the information you might
be missing - and much more. For personal advice at
the counter, take a ticket and wait your turn. There are
St. Peter’s sits peacefully on its little square. www.juanrubiano.com some iPads for you to browse and check out the many
offers like tours and venues and you can pick up leaflets
POLITICS and a city map. But they don’t just have advice, they
also offer the following services.
The Swiss like to consider their country the home of
direct democracy and citizens here are regularly asked They...
to take a stand on national issues. The two chambers of • will book city tours and excursions
parliament are (mainly) elected in a proportional voting • sell tickets for public transport, incl. the Swiss Travel Pass
system and the seven-member government appointed • sell the ZürichCARD (see p. 39 for more infos)
by parliament always includes representatives of all of • can make hotel reservations
the four or five major parties. Switzerland is a federal • also sell tickets for events and museums, souvenirs
republic consisting of 26 cantons, once sovereign states and gift vouchers
which retain some independence and have their own
constitutions, parliaments and governments. Bern is Last but not least you can always pick up the latest
the capital and the seat of the parliament and the copy of Zurich In Your Pocket here - for free, of course.
federal authorities. Due to the understanding of political QMain hall of the main train station. Open 08:30 -
independence many locals favour, Switzerland is not a 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
member of the EU.
10 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
History
XVI Century
Huldrych Zwingli, priest at the Grossmünster, was a major
critic of mercenary service. But he had a lot more to say and
became the initiator of the Reformation in Zurich from
1520 on. The Reformation meant an end to all frivolous
behaviour - drinking, prostitution and actually most fun
was forbidden or strictly regulated.

NAPOLEON CAUSES A BOTHER


XVI - XVIII Century
During the 16th and 17th Centuries Zurich’s wealth and
influence increased. Among the intellectuals of the time
were the educational reformer Heinrich Pestalozzi or the
painter Johann Heinrich Füssli, whose work you’ll find today
in the Kunsthaus. In 1798 Zurich lost its independence as
Napoleon took over, transforming the Swiss Confederacy
into the Helvetic Republic for a brief five years.

Zurich’s somewhat grim reformator Huldrych Zwingli. ZIYP


RAILWAYS AND A STRIKE
ROMANS AND XIX - XX Century
Modern-day Switzerland was founded in 1848 as a
SCHWYZERDÜÜTSCH federation. The year before, the first railway line in Switzerland
100BC - X Century was opened. Railways were the business Alfred Escher was
Around 15 BC the Romans established a military base at the in. He dominated Zurich and Swiss politics for the next few
site of today’s Lindenhof where you can find a copy of the decades. His statue can be found just in front of the main
Roman tomb stone mentioning Turicum, the word from train station. Switzerland remained neutral during the First
which Zurich derives. Roman rule ended around 400 AD World War and was refuge to the artists who started the
and nobody really has any idea what went on in Zurich for Dada movement in Zurich. The war exacerbated the poverty
the next few centuries. One change was the arrival of the of the working classes and in 1918 a socialist committee
Germanic tribe of the Allemanni, who brought with them called a general strike. Many of the committee’s demands
the language that was to become today’s Swiss German were later fulfilled, though not the demand for the right of
(Schwyzerdüütsch). women to vote, which was not introduced until 1971!

ZURICH IN WOMEN’S HANDS THE RÉDUIT AND THE WAR


XII - XIV Century XX Century
In the 13th Century Zurich became an During most of the Second World War Switzerland, formally
imperial city, answering only to the neutral, was totally surrounded by the Axis powers, making
emperor of the Holy Roman Empire. it difficult to import food and other goods. General Guisan
Zurich was now headed by a woman - prepared for a military attack by literally hollowing out the
the abbess of the Fraumünster abbey. Alps, envisaging a guerrilla war from the mountains, the so-
In 1336 an uprising of Zurich’s called réduit strategy.
craftsmen made the newly founded guilds the foundation
of Zurich’s political structure. Many of the guild houses, still
in use today, are now also restaurants like the Zunfthaus Zur ZURICH TODAY
Schmiden or the Zunfthaus am Neumarkt (emblem of the XX - XXI Century
guild of the shoemakers on the left). After the war Switzerland’s economy
boomed and mass immigration from
ZURICH GOES SWISS…  Southern Europe set in, while culturally
and politically Switzerland remained very
AND PROTESTANT conservative. In 1968 and 1980 youth
XIV - XVI Century movements clashed with police, but
In 1351 Zurich joined ’Switzerland’, which had existed as a also brought new cultural life to Zurich. Today Zurich is
treaty since 1291. This however didn’t stop the city waging still a major financial centre and has lost the conservative
war against fellow cantons, such as against Schwyz. Soon reputation. It has become popular as a place to live for highly-
the city ruled over lands around Lake Zurich and north skilled workers from across Europe. This has made the lack of
all the way to the river Rhine. affordable apartments one of the major topics in Zurich today.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 11
Culture & Events
Zurich offers a rich bouquet of culture, with its opera and 18.01, 19.01 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA
ballet of (at least) European renown and a packed programme Conductor: François-Xavier Roth; piano: Benjamin
of excellent classical concerts in the Tonhalle and elsewhere. Grosvenor. Works by Johannes Brahms & Arnold Schönberg.
Pop and rock stars almost always stop in Zurich when touring QE‑5, Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 25-
the continent. Zurich also has a vibrant theatre scene, but 110Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch.
unfortunately only a few productions in English.
20.01 19:30 »
Events are listed in the following categories: classical ZURICH CHAMBER ORCHESTRA
concerts, exhibitions, rock & pop concerts and shows. Conductor: Sir Roger Norrington; piano: Martin
Within the sections it’s ordered by date. Helmchen. Works by Ludwig van Beethoven.QE‑5,
Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 16-105Sfr,
Of course there are many more events than we can list. We www.zko.ch.
recommend www.zueritipp.ch for more information.
24.01 19:30 » DIE DEUTSCHE
KAMMERPHILHARMONIE BREMEN
CLASSICAL CONCERTS Conductor: Paavo Järvi; violin: Vilde Frang. Works by
07.12, 08.12, 09.12 19:30 » Johannes Brahms & Igor Stravinsky.QE‑5, Tonhalle,
TONHALLE ORCHESTRA Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 25-125Sfr,
Conductor: Bernard Haitink; piano: Sir András Schiff. www.kammerphilharmonie.com.
Works by Ludwig van Beethoven & Anton Bruckner.QE‑5,
Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 25-150Sfr,
www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. EXHIBITIONS
15.10 - 05.02 »
14.12, 15.12, 16.12 19:30 » MIGROS MUSEUM REVISITED - 1996-2016
TONHALLE ORCHESTRA The Migros Museum for Contemporary Art celebrates
Conductor: Paavo Järvi; violoncello: Steven Isserlis. its 20th anniversary by turning its focus on itself. It will
Works by Sergei Prokofiev & Robert Schumann.QE‑5, attempt to envision its future while also looking back
Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 25-125Sfr, on its past, undertaking a searching and multifaceted
www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. examination of the history of the museum and its collection
as well as its curatorial programme. Museum Revisited –
1996-2016 shines a spotlight on the everyday operations
of the museum and presents unusual glimpses of what
goes on behind the scenes with a particular emphasis
on its art education activities. Publications, posters,
photographic and video documentation as well as archival
materials trace the history of the museum’s work over the
past two decades. The museum is financed by the art fund
of the eponymous supermarket cooperative Migros and its
collection includes Swiss and international artists especially
works with a critical social slant and installations that
reflect on the topic of space.QL‑6, Migros Museum für
Gegenwartskunst, Limmatstrasse 270, 8Dammweg,
tel. (+41) 44 277 20 50, 12/8Sfr, www.mm20.ch. Open
The Tonhalle Orchestra in action. PD 11:00 - 18:00, Thu 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon.
21.12, 22.12 19:30 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA -
CHRISTMAS CONCERT 28.10 - 15.01 »
Conductor: Omer Meir Wellber; Zurich Sing Academy ALBERTO GIACOMETTI - BEYOND BRONZE
(production: Andreas Felber). Works by Ariel Ramírez & This major exhibition entitled Alberto Giacometti –
Leonard Bernstein.QE‑5, Tonhalle, Claridenstrasse 7, Beyond Bronze marks the 50th anniversary of the death
8Bürkliplatz, 25-110Sfr, www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. of Alberto Giacometti (1901 - 1966). Masterworks in
Plaster and Other Materials illuminates the fundamental
31.12 19:00 » TONHALLE ORCHESTRA - aspects of this Swiss artist’s oeuvre and technique. At the
NEW YEAR’S EVE CONCERT heart of the presentation are 75 original plasters from the
Condcutor: Lionel Bringuier; piano: Igor Levit. Works artist’s estate, which came to the Kunsthaus in 2006. They
by George Gershwin & Maurice Ravel.QE‑5, Tonhalle, have been examined by restoration experts and prepared
Claridenstrasse 7, 8Bürkliplatz, 25-175Sfr, for this exhibition as part of a multi-year research project.
www.tonhalle-orchester.ch. For Alberto Giacometti, plaster was of great importance
as a material – far more than just an intermediate stage
12 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events
21.09 - 19.02 » BRAZIL 2014 REVISITED
The 2014 FIFA World Cup witnessed flamboyant
superstars, passionate fans, colourful venues and
more than a few surprises – a fitting tribute to Brazil
as football’s most successful nation. The FIFA museum’s
first temporary exhibition Brazil 2014 Revisited brings
the tournament back to life through artefacts collected
on-site and specially created video content. Visitors are
also able to discover the incredible history of football
in Brazil through memorabilia that belonged to stars
like Pelé, Zico, Socrates and Friedenreich. Brazil 2014
Revisited is as much a journey through time as it is
a flashback to the tournament that saw Germany
crowned champions for the fourth time.QD‑5, FIFA
World Football Museum, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof
Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 25 00, 8/4Sfr (4/2Sfr when
Original player shirts on display at Brazil 2014 Revisited. PD
purchased with a ticket to the permanent exhibition),
www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun
between a clay model and a bronze cast. It allowed him 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
to paint or rework his objects in a wide variety of ways.
Indeed, a significant number of his sculptures exist only
in a plaster version, but the exhibition also includes many
works in other materials, such as marble, wood and bronze.
CINEMAS
QG‑4, Kunsthaus, Heimplatz 1, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) Zurich has 16 cinemas, the large ones with up to 12
44 253 84 84, 22/17Sfr, www.kunsthaus.ch/en. Open screens. Traditionally films in Switzerland are shown
10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. in their original language with German and French
subtitles. But the big multiplex cinemas that have
27.10 - 15.01 » CHRISTIAN HERDEG displaced some of the smaller ones in the last two
Christian Herdeg, who lives and works in Zurich, has decades have started to show more and more movies
devoted over 40 years to the medium of light. As one of dubbed in German. In the best case they show two
the first Swiss artists to have used fluorescent tubes, he versions of the same movie: one in original language
is a pioneer of light art. This retrospective solo exhibition and one dubbed. In smaller cinemas you can still watch
at Museum Haus Konstruktiv, created in close cooperation all movies in the original language - lots of them in
with the artist, presents important milestones in his English of course. They are marked with the letters Edf
unmistakable oeuvre, from the very beginnings to the in the programmes (English with German (Deutsch)
present day. The relationships between light, colour, and French subtitles) - a D (capital) indicates the
surface, volume and space are central to Herdeg’s movie is shown in German. Check www.cineman.ch
artistic research and his light installations show signs of for programme and screening times. Tickets cost
an increasing trend toward formal reduction and clear somewhere between 15 and 21Sfr, depending on
references to Minimal Art.QD‑3, Haus Konstruktiv, the movie and the category you choose. On Mondays
Selnaustrasse 25, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 217 70 tickets are 13Sfr in all cinemas for all seats.
80, 16/12Sfr, under 18 years of age free admission,
www.hauskonstruktiv.ch. Open 11:00 - 17:00, Wed CORSO
11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. A four-screen multiplex at Bellevue. Screenings in the
theatres holding between 120 and 750 spectators start
29.10 - 05.03 » DISPLACED in the afternoon. Mainly blockbuster movies in English
Day after day, we’re confronted with new images of people language - fetch a beer at the bar before settling down
who have tragically lost their lives fleeing their homeland. in your seat. To call it’s 1.50Sfr per call & min.QF‑5,
But what does it mean to have to leave your home, job, Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 900 556
family and country behind? The exhibition Displaced 789, www.kitag.ch.
allows visitors to put themselves in the shoes of those
affected and experience what it’s like to be a refugee. As well RIFFRAFF
as exploring the fate awaiting refugees, it explores issues The RiffRaff is a lovely cinema with four screens just
such as people displaced by climate change and questions off Langstrasse - arthouse movies in original language,
relating to cultural diversity, identity and the opportunity which is not necessarily English, are usually on the
presented by integration.QE‑2, National Museum menu. They also have two bars perfect for a drink after
(Landesmuseum), Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, the movie.QC‑1, Neugasse 57, 8Limmatplatz, tel.
tel. (+41) 58 466 65 11, www.nationalmuseum.ch. Open (+41) 44 444 22 00, www.riffraff.ch.
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 13
Culture & Events
ROCK & POP CONCERTS TICKETS
05.12 20:00 » DAVID GARRETT
Violin superstar David Garrett is among the world’s most Most venues sell tickets on the internet which you can
versatile violinists and he is currently travelling with his print out yourself on any printer or display on your
Explosive tour. For the first time in his career he will perform smartphone. However, if it’s more convenient for you
on a central stage. Expect an explosive show!QO‑2, to actually get tickets (and advice) at a counter, these
Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ are your options:
Hallenstadion, 75-135Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch. • Tourist Service by Zurich Tourism, main hall of the
main train station (see p. 10). They sell tickets of the
06.12 20:30 » NAÏSSAM JALAL & RHYTHMS major ticketing companies starticket and ticketino.
OF RESISTANCE • SBB travel agency, ticket counter. Located in the
Paris born Naïssam Jalal and the Rhythms of Resistance main hall of Zurich’s main train station just next to the
combine jazz and classical elements with oriental and train ticket counters, the SBB travel agency sells all
African music. Her compositions are dynamic and talk kinds of event tickets. Just pull a ticket for the event
about musical journeys and the curiosity of the unknown. counter and wait your turn.
QK‑6, Moods, Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel.
(+41) 44 276 80 00, 35Sfr, www.moods.ch.
18.01 20:00 » DIE FANTASTISCHEN VIER
08.12 20:00 » ELTON JOHN Die Fantastischen Vier (The Fantastic Four) are the most
Elton John is probably one of the most respected and successful German hip-hop band ever. For over 20 years
admired artists of all time. Since he started his career in they’ve surged to the top of the German-speaking charts
1969, he has performed more than 4,000 times in over 80 in Europe every time they’ve released a new album.
countries. A ‘Wonderful Crazy Night’ is guaranteed!QO‑2, They also tour with a great live band, so it’s an excellent
Hallenstadion, Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/ chance to discover German rap.QO‑2, Hallenstadion,
Hallenstadion, 88-200Sfr, www.hallenstadion.ch. Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 77-99Sfr,
www.hallenstadion.ch.
16.12 20:30 » JAËL
Swiss singer-songwriter Jäel is on tour with an unplugged
programme of sorts, which highlights her warm voice. She
gained fame and renown earlier as the front woman of
the internationally successful band Lunik.QK‑6, Moods,
Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 00,
30Sfr, www.moods.ch.

16.01 19:00 » GREEN DAY


For over 20 years, Green Day has been one of the world’s
most dynamic and successful rock acts. Since the release
of their debut album Dookie in 1994, they’ve sold over 70
million records worldwide. They’re now on tour with their Jaël has reshuffled the cards and is now performing unplugged. PD
latest endeavour, Revolution Radio.QO‑2, Hallenstadion,
Wallisellenstrasse 45, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 75-85Sfr, 24.01 20:00 » THE HEAD AND THE HEART
www.hallenstadion.ch. The Head And The Heart are one of the greats of the US
indie folk rock scene. So much heart and so much head
rarely come together in one band. They’re now on tour
with their third album, Signs Of Light.QB‑3, Plaza,
OPERA & BALLET Badenerstrasse 109, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 44
542 90 90, 40Sfr, www.plaza-zurich.ch.
The Zurich Opera is a magnificent building near the
lake shore built in 1891 by Austrian architects Ferdinand SHOWS
Fellner and Hermann Helmer. Check out the programme
on their website. You can also buy tickets on the opera’s 01.12 - 18.12 » MUMMENSCHANZ - YOU & ME
webpage, by phone or at the ticket office on site. The Mummenschanz Swiss mask and pantomime theatre
Plays are usually with German and English subtitles. group has been performing all over the world for over
The shows of the Zurich Ballet Company directed by 40 years. Watch them perform their all-new programme
Christian Spuck take place here too.QF‑5, Opernhaus, you & me. Show times: Tue & Wed 18:30, Thu & Fri
Falkenstrasse 1, 8Opernhaus / Stadelhofen, tel. +41 19:30, Sat 15:00 & 19:30, Sun 14:00.QO‑2, Theater 11,
44 268 66 66, www.opernhaus.ch. Thurgauerstrasse 7, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, 48-88Sfr,
www.mummenschanz.com.
14 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Christmas
In recent years Christmas markets have popped up all
over the city of Zurich. They don’t have a tradition going
back centuries like in Germany, but nevertheless some
of them have charm and atmosphere. All of them are
outdoors - except the big Christkindlimarkt in the hall of
the main train station. You’ll find a range of items from
colourful scarves to wood carvings, sweet delicacies and
bits and pieces from around the world. At all the markets
you can get glühwein, hot mulled red wine that keeps
you warm even if a cold December wind is blowing. And
of course there are food stands offering raclette, melted
cheese on bread, and other delights. Check our listings
below and glühwein your way around them all! The Christmas ornaments on this tree are actually singing!
Zurich Tourism (CM)

The Bahnhofstrasse, the city’s main shopping street, has WEIHNACHTSMARKT IM DÖRFLI
had an impressive set of Christmas lights since 2010. The The Christmas or Weihnacht market in Niederdorf, the part
lights feature more than 150,000 diodes, most of them of the old town east of the River Limmat, is the oldest one
white, but with a sprinkling of coloured ones, for a bit of in Zurich. Dozens of stands bring a Christmas atmosphere
a starry-sky effect. to the alleys and squares around Niederdorfstrasse.
Many craftspeople sell their products here. Stroll through
this one to combine Christmas shopping with some
MARKETS sightseeing.QF‑3, Niederdorf, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke,
CHRISTKINDLIMARKT www.weihnachtsmarkt-doerfli.ch. In 2016 open Nov 24
They say it’s one of Europe’s biggest indoor Christmas - Dec 23, 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00.
markets with a 15m-tall Christmas tree decorated with
hundreds of crystals as its main attraction. And surely at
least one of the more than 150 stands has the Christmas NEW YEAR’S EVE
present you’re looking for! There is a merry-go-round to
keep the children happy, and glühwein for the parents. Many Swiss celebrate New Year’s Eve with a dinner
QE‑2, Main train station (main hall), 8Hauptbahnhof, with the family - either at home or out at a restaurant
www.christkindlimarkt.ch. In 2016 open Nov 24 until - and go out to party later. Lots of restaurants offer
Dec 24, 10:30 - 22:00, Thu - Sat 10:30 - 22:00. special deals for New Year’s Eve, usually consisting
of a more or less extended menu and champagne
EISGLITZER & LICHTERGLANZ at midnight. Choose your favourite restaurant in our
- ICE SKATING AND MORE restaurant chapter - and don’t forget to call them as a
A winter wonderland will be appearing on Gustav-Gull reservation is essential. It goes without saying that all
square in the newly developed shopping and residential the clubs in town have New Year’s Eve decoration and
area Europaallee, just southwest of the tracks of the main parties - including rather high admission fees. If you’re
train station. There will be an ice rink to show off your not touring in too large numbers, bar hopping might
pirouettes - or simply skate a few rounds. Ice skating shows be a good alternative to a club option, even though
and ice discos are also on the schedule. Food stalls and especially the Niederdorf area will be really crowded.
a fondue house will make sure you don’t have to leave SILVESTERZAUBER (NEW YEAR’S MAGIC)
hungry. Check its website for a detailed programme.QD‑2, The biggest New Year’s Eve Party in Switzerland is
Europaallee, 8Hauptbahnhof, www.europaallee.ch. called Silvesterzauber (New Year’s magic) and takes
In 2016 open Dec 2 - Dec 31, 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - place around Zurich’s lake shore. Dozens of food
22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. stands, bars and tents with party music turn the area
around Bellevue and Bürkliplatz into a huge open-air
SINGING CHRISTMAS TREE party. The climax of the evening is the fireworks display
This small market is situated just a few steps from paid for by Zurich’s hoteliers and Swiss Casinos Zurich.
Bahnhofstrasse. The real attraction here is the singing At exactly twenty minutes past midnight hundreds
Christmas tree: every day at 17:30 and 18:30 (Sat & Sun also of rockets take off from boats on the lake. Around
at 14:30 and 15:30) choirs sing carols - on a vertical stage that 200,000 people attend, so make sure you don’t get
looks like a Christmas tree. With their red hats on, the singers are stuck snogging behind a tree and miss all the action.
the decorations on the tree. Singing Christmas baubles - we’ve Wondering why the fireworks start 20 minutes late? For
never seen anything quite like it. And yes, there is glühwein 15 minutes before and after midnight the city’s church
and fondue too.QE‑3, Werdmühleplatz, 8Bahnhofstrasse bells ring to bid the old year farewell and to welcome
/ Hauptbahnhof, www.singingchristmastree.ch. In 2016 the new one.QBellevue, www.silvesterzauber.ch.
open Nov 24 until Dec 23, 16:00 -21:00, Fri 16:00 - 22:00, Sat Open 20:00 - 03:00. Free admission.
13:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 21:00.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 15
Christmas
CIRCUS CONELLI
For more than 30 years now, when Christmas draws closer
the Conelli Circus sets up its tent on the Bauschänzli, a small
island on the River Limmat right in the heart of the city.
This year’s show includes acrobats, other circus elements
like clowns and a circus big band - all in a very festive
atmosphere.QE‑4, Bauschänzli, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41)
44 212 33 33, www.circus-conelli.ch. Shows Nov 17 until
Dec 31 daily usually at 14:00 & 19:30, Sun 14:00 & 17:30.
No shows on Dec 25. Tickets 47 - 99Sfr, children half
price. Tickets on site and www.ticketcorner.ch, (+41) 900
800 800 (1.19Sfr/min.).

HERZBARACKE
The Herzbaracke is a floating music theatre, anchoring all
winter at Bellevue. You’ll easily spot the quirky blue fairytale
house. There are revues, orchestras, jazz bands and the like
on stage. Before the shows start, they serve a four-course
The Wienachtsdorf at Bellevue is this year’s Christmas hotspot. dinner with soups and salads and often a roast as a main.
Zurich Tourism, Alex Buschor
The room holds about 40 people, with wood panelled walls
ZÜRCHER WIENACHTSDORF AM BELLEVUE and petroleum lamps as décor. Reservation required. It’s
This is the latest of Zurich’s Christmas markets, open only possible to board just for an apéro from 17:30 without a
for the second time. On Sechseläutenplatz at Bellevue ticket.QF‑5, Bellevue, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 380 53
this village-like market features around 100 huts as 80, www.herzbaracke.ch. In winter 2016/17 open Oct
market stalls. Many of the vendors here are designers, 27 - March 12, daily 17:30, dinner 19:00, shows 20:30.
manufacturers and craftspeople selling their own Check programme. Tickets 42Sfr, four-course dinner
products, many with a sustainable approach. Dozens of 66/77Sfr.
food stalls will be clamouring for your cash and besides
classics like raclette there will be food from around the LIVE ON ICE - ICE SKATING
world. You and your kids can skate on an ice rink, and An ice-skating rink in the courtyard of the Swiss National
there will be a variety of artists and clowns and a musical Museum, just next to the main station, entices children
advent calendar. Definitely worth a visit!QF‑5, Bellevue, and adults alike to take to the ice. It’s free and skates can
8Bellevue, www.wienachtsdorf.ch. In 2016 open Nov be rented on site. Visual artist Gerry Hofstetter transforms
24 - Dec 23, 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Ice rink the façade of the National Museum into a sea of Christmas
opens daily at 09:00. lights with his light installations, and bars and restaurants
in several heated tents offer fondue and more - a nice
setting for dinner in the pre-Christmas season.QE‑2,
SHOWS & ACTIVITIES Courtyard Swiss National Museum, 8Hauptbahnhof,
CANDLE MAKING (KERZENZIEHEN) tel. (+41) 44 918 72 27, www.liveonice.ch. In 2016 open
Make your own candle by dipping a wick into tubs of Nov 26 - Jan 2, 16:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
hot, molten wax in a pavilion on Bürkliplatz. All you Admission free.
need is a bit of patience, as the wax needs to cool before
you dip it again. Good to slow down for a while in the SALTO NATALE
frantic pre-Christmas period and good for kids. You pay Salto Natale is the traditional Christmas show by Rolf and
according to the weight of the candle when it’s finished. Gregory Knie, members of Switzerland’s most famous
Proceeds go to charity.QE‑5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, circus family. Dozens of artists from around the globe will
www.zuercherkerzenziehen.ch. In 2016 open Nov 12 - entertain you with acrobatics, magic and fun. A good show
Dec 21, 10:00 - 20:00. even if you don’t speak any German - you might miss an
occasional joke, but overall this is about circus atmosphere
and independent of language. You can book dinner before
CHRISTMAS the show. Take a train to Zurich Airport and get the shuttle
SHOPPING HOURS bus to the venue from there. It’s possible to book dinner
before the show.QParkplatz Holberg, Kloten, tel. (+41)
In Switzerland, shops have to remain closed on 900 66 77 88 (1.15Sfr/min), www.saltonatale.ch. Shows
Sundays. However in 2016 on the Sundays November from Nov 17 until January 2 daily 20:00, Sat 15:00 &
27, December 4 and 18 the shops in the city centre of 20:00, Sun 14:00 & 18:00. No shows on Mon & every
Zurich are open from 11:00 - 18:00 (department stores second Tue and Dec 25. Dec 26 - Jan 2 two shows daily.
open until 19:00). Happy Christmas shopping! Tickets: 35 - 195Sfr, www.saltonatale.ch, (+41) 900 66 77
88 (1.15Sfr/min.).
16 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Quick picks
Eat Drink Do
With vegetables Bovelli (p. 28) is where When the temperatures
from a community locals head for a drop, ice skating is a
agriculture project cocktail on their popular pastime in Zurich.
within the city, you afternoon shopping Until Christmas you can
Local

can’t get much more local than break. The owners have transferred skate right in front of the opera house
Wirtschaft im Franz (p. 27). The their passion for mixed drinks from (Chritsmas market Wiehnachtsdorf, p. 16)
mix of plain wood tables, just two their other successful bars Dante and at Live On Ice in the courtyard of the
inspired menus each evening and Le Raymond. In the evening city National Museum (p. 16).  The skating
and crowd funding makes this centre office workers join the fun. rink at the Dolder sports centre (p. 55) is
place quintessentially Zurich. also a great choice.
Reasonably priced Rock music lovers and One of Zurich’s major
and quite tasty football fans are usually landmarks is still free to
On the cheap

crêpes and galettes a good indicator of visit: the medieval church


are what you get at where to find cheap Grossmünster (p. 34). It
Chez Toi (p. 20) – an adorable beer. You’ll find all three of them at has magnificent stained glass windows
establishment in the district of the alternative Mars bar by artists such as Augusto Giacometti,
Wiedikon. (Neufrankengasse 15, C-1), just off elegant Gothic arches and grim little
Langstrasse. faces looking down from the masonry.
The one-time arsenal Like any city, Zurich has its fair share Ice hockey is a big deal in Switzerland
Zeughauskeller of Irish pubs and Kennedy's (p. 31) and the season’s in full swing. Feel the
(p. 27) is a great is a prime choice for ale, cider and heat when Zurich’s ZSC Lions challenge
Lads & Lasses

place for large beers big-screen sports – in a comfortable their rivals. Matches are held at the
and generous portions of solid sitting position. Pub Quiz on Hallenstadion (Wallisellenstrasse 45,
food – like their metre-long Mondays. O-1) and start at 19:45 on  Dec 2, 6,
sausages! Try an eidgenoss (a 11, 20, 23 and on Jan 8, 13 and 20
Swiss soldier): half a litre of beer (15:45 on Dec 11 and Jan 13). Tickets:
flambéed with fruit liquor. www.zsclions.ch
If you’re looking for a In a historic vaulted cellar bathed Loacted in a former
nice place for a in candlelight, Weinschenke brewery, Thermalbad &
tête-à-tête, Mere (Hirschgasse 6, F-3) ticks all of the Spa Zurich (p. 56) is
Couples

Catherine (p. 20) boxes for a romantic night out. Its impressive – but when it
has the right atmosphere, not to selection of wines might also rouse gets busy it isn’t as relaxing as it sounds.
mention a very pleasing your inner passions, especially the You can escape the bustle by ordering
French-inspired menu. We Austrian sweet wines or the local the Toi et Moi package: four hours for
recommend the cheese platter! Blauburgunders. two in a private bath, including a glass
of prosecco and massages.
Fantastic flavours, For a top-notch If you enjoy the thrill of a
perfect textures, watering hole in the little gambling, Zurich's
harmonious city centre, try Onyx casino (p. 30) in the centre
combinations. Every bar (p. 30) in the Park of town offers roulette,
High-end

chef aims for them, but Maison Hyatt Hotel. A sky-high wall behind poker and blackjack - with maximum
Manesse (p. 18) hits the mark. It’s the bar stocks every liquor you can stakes in the 10,000s -  as well as slot
hard not to be too exuberant imagine, so order a fancy cocktail machines. With a good restaurant and
about this restaurant, where the and watch the barmen climb the two well-appointed bars, it's not
service is just as warm and ladder to get your favourite tipple. difficult to spend an exciting  evening
professional as the food is exciting. here.
Although ‘cooking’ Hot red wine may sound strange, As soon as the cold
tofu over a candle but when a cold winter wind whips weather arrives, these little,
at our table past you, you may well warm to the mostly green stands
Unexpected

caught us by idea. A cup of Glühwein, prepared appear on the streets. And


surprise, once done it was like with sugar, cinnamon, cloves, lemon what’s all the shouting about? They’re
the rest of the dishes we zest and other spices, will keep you all selling little paper bags full of hot
received at Japanese Mitsu (p. warm on your wanderings through roasted chestnuts! All around town
22) - of superb quality and the city’s many Christmas markets you’ll find street vendors offering heissi
delicious! (p. 15). marroni, as they’re known locally.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 17


Restaurants

The bountiful vegetarian buffet at tibits, here at NZZ bistro (see p. 22). | PD

Zurich has around 2,000 restaurants, bars and that most of the teething problems that come with
takeaways. No wonder you can find almost any kind opening a new establishment have been remedied.QB‑3,
of food imaginable: from down-to-earth Swiss to Langstrasse 10, 8Bezirksgebäude, tel. (+41) 43 317 94
traditional Vietnamese, from Lebanese to Japanese 74, www.luckydumpling.ch. Open 11:00 - 14:30, 17:00
and back again. But today many restaurants also cook - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. €. A­B
in a mélange, international style and are not easily
categorized. Nevertheless we have tried. We list the OOO ROOFTOP
places we recommend within any particular category. Since the recent renovation, Modissa fashion house on
For lunch, lots of restaurants offer special deals, usually Bahnhofstrasse has a restaurant with a terrace on the
considerably cheaper than à la carte. Note that many top floor. One of the city’s busiest gastronomers, Michel
restaurants close their kitchens between roughly 14:00 Péclard, has taken over and serves Asian fusion cuisine
and 17:30 and in the evening at 22:00 or 23:00. For the here. The speciality is dumplings with different fillings
evening we recommend you book a table. For more served on a trolley. We liked the vegetarian ones especially.
suggestions see www.zurich.inyourpocket.com. But whatever you order, leave room for dessert - the cakes
are delicious! When Modissa is closed, enter through the
separate entrance on Uraniastrasse.QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse
ASIAN 74, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 400 05 55. Open 09:00 -
NEW 24:00, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - late, Sun 10:00
LUCKY DUMPLING - 22:00. €€. J­A­B
Yes, it’s all about dumplings at this small restaurant on
Langstrasse. Owner Angel Liu decided to shut down her
café and open an authentic Chinese restaurant instead. BURGERS
A very wise decision. The freshly-made dumplings that JACK & JO (EUROPAALLEE)
come with eight different fillings are a real treat and you Jack & Jo is in on a perplexing new trend: fast slow food. Or
can actually watch the staff making them by hand in the .. is it slow fast food? Basically it’s burgers, made from locally
back of the room. We enjoyed the spicy shrimp too, but as produced ingredients and home-made buns, served with
they came with a sticky sauce and with the shells still on, organic fries and drinks presented in preserving jars, all in
they were a little hard to handle. We, however, finished our a modern but homely styled environment. The vegetarian
exotic dining experience on a high note with a fried banana burger with halloumi was solid, and if for you fennel
and although the service was slightly chaotic, we’ve heard rhymes with halloumi, this will suit you. The beef burger
18 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
(small delights) for our starter. We liked everything,
SYMBOL & PRICE KEY especially the ‘Züriei’, a wonderful creamy and foamy egg
served in a glass with truffle and spinach. With the mains,
A Credit cards accepted X Smoker lounge we were more than happy too: the Argentinian roastbeef
was a treat, as was the chop of venison. The atmosphere
E Live music J City centre location in this former mill at Tiefenbrunnen is very pleasant and
8 Nearest tram station N No credit cards genuine - we spent a really nice evening.QSeefeldstrasse
223, 8Wildbachstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 388 68 40,
B Outside seating C‑1 Map coordinates www.blaue-ente.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 24:00,
Sat 18:00 -24:00. Closed Sun, Kitchen open until 22:00.
€ most mains under 25Sfr
€€ most mains 25-40Sfr €€€. A­B
€€€ most mains 40-55Sfr
€€€€ most mains over 55Sfr

was more to our taste here. There is a huge salad bar and
they do quesadillas and breakfasts too. Place your orders
at the bar, a buzzer will tell you when they’re ready to pick
up. Popular with students and the city’s hipsters.QD‑2,
Gustav-Gull-Platz 2, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. (+41) 44 542 88
99, www.jackandjo.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 -
22:00, Kitchen closes daily 22:00, Sun 21:00. €. J­A

THE BUTCHER
It seems like Zurich can’t get enough of burgers in recent
years, The Butcher being one of many openings. This one
leans slightly more to the fast-food side, as the burgers Maison Manesse majors in white - and great food. PD
come wrapped in paper, the salad in a plastic cup, but
the nicely crafted interior with its wood and white tiling is MAISON MANESSE
inspired by a 19th-century deli or butcher. Our spicy burger This is extraordinary avant-garde cuisine in a comfortable
with jalapenos was good, the meat tender and a little pink and easy-going setting. The menus created by chef Fabian
on the inside, the bun, however, a tad too fluffy for our Spiquel change frequently and feature experimental cuisine
taste. Service was quick and friendly.QF‑3, Stüssihofstatt and other unusual cooking styles. In the evening there are
15, tel. (+41) 43 243 61 43, www.butcher.ch. Open 11:00 two menus on offer - a vegetarian one and one with fish and
- 23:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. J­A­B meat. You decide if you prefer six or seven courses (around
150Sfr). It’s amazing the tastes they create here. But relax, not
everything is completely off the wall. A steak is still a steak
FINE DINING - except that the one we had here was probably the most
BLAUE ENTE tender we’ve had in a long time. Recommended!QB‑5,
At the Blaue Ente they do pay attention to details: the Hopfenstrasse 2, 8Schmiede Wiedikon, tel.
freshly baked loaf of bread and the spread are more than a (+41) 44 462 01 01, www.maisonmanesse.ch.
standard welcome. Happy with the friendly and proficient Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:30 - 24:00, Mon 11:45 - 14:00, Sat
waiter, we let him choose some of the 14 available häppli 18:30 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. A­B

THE CLASSIC ITALIAN RESTAURANT NEAR THE


GROSSMÜNSTER

Mühlebachstrasse 2 commercio.ch
CH-8008 Zurich arthouse.ch Nägelihof 3 / 8001 Zurich
T +41 44 250 59 30 warm meals all day T +41 44 250 59 40 / commercio.ch / arthouse.ch

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Restaurants
CHEESE RESTAURANTS FRENCH
NEW
CHEZ TOI
Long tables with benches, framed photos hanging
askew and a white tiled bar give this place a certain air of
nonchalance, while the crêpes and galettes (thin pancakes)
affirm the French connection. The former are made from
wheat flour and are usually filled with sweet stuff like
chocolate, but the latter are made of buckwheat and come
stuffed with cheese, meat and other savoury ingredients.
The galette La Valaisanne with smoked ham and cheese
was excellent and the same can be said of the crêpe with
nuts and chocolate. Specials are also available including
istockphoto.com all-you-can-eat crêpes (which you fry at your own table)
The Swiss cheese specialities fondue and raclette on Wednesday evenings and a brunch buffet can be
originally come from the French-speaking areas of enjoyed on Saturdays and Sundays. In short, Chez Toi is an
Switzerland. Fondue is basically a mix of melted cheese adorable establishment that’s a little off the beaten track,
and white wine bubbling over a small burner which but well worth a visit.QA‑3, Meinrad Lienert Strasse 1,
you dip bread cubes into, while raclette is pure melted 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 44 542 93 89, www.chez-toi.ch.
cheese which is poured over boiled potatoes. The listed Open 11:00 - 14:30, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun
restaurants below are specialists. 10:00 - 19:00. €.

FRIBOURGER FONDUESTÜBLI
Fondue is considered a Swiss national dish, but some
regions have more of a tradition than others. The
canton of Fribourg prides itself on making some of
the best fondues, and here you can choose between
two different Fribourger cheese blends. Have a glass
of white wine with your meal, but be careful not to
lose the piece of bread while dipping it in the melted
cheese.QC‑3, Rotwandstrasse 38, 8Staufffacher,
tel. (+41) 44 241 90 76, www.fribourger
-fondue-stuebli.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 -
23:30, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 23:30. €€. A
LE DÉZALEY
For decades Le Dézaley has been dedicated to dishes
from Vaud in western Switzerland. The fondue prepared
Mellow tones set the Mediterranean ambience at Mère Catherine.
according to a family recipe is very tasty and also comes
PD
in a version with morel mushrooms. A typical starter is
airdried meat - or instead of fondue try one of the regional
sausages.QF‑4, Römergasse 7/9, 8Helmhaus, tel. MÈRE CATHERINE
(+41) 44 251 61 29, www.le-dezaley.ch. Open 11:30 Mother Catherine’s menu majors in classics from Provence
- 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until using plenty of fish, seafood, olives and rosemary. But she
22:45. (22 - 50Sfr) €€. J­A­B also does other French classics like onion soup or snails.
Filled pasta like ravioles and cappelacci, usually home-
SWISS CHUCHI (HOTEL ADLER) made, are also standard features. The interior with uneven
Located in the centre of Niederdorf, the Swiss Chuchi walls, dark tables and chequered tablecloths is pleasant and
serves all the Swiss specialities, especially the cheesy the kitchen reliable. The tiny bar Le Philosophe next door is
ones like fondue and raclette. Try the Adler’s special good for a quiet drink.QF‑4, Nägelihof 3, 8Helmhaus,
blend made of four aged cheeses: very aromatic tel. (+41) 44 250 59 40, www.commercio.ch.
and genuine. It’s all served in a rustic chalet-style Open 11:30 - 24:00, kitchen open throughout until
atmosphere with the walls panelled with bright wood 22:15. €€. J­A­B
and complete with a full-size cow to greet you from
the balcony.QF‑3, Rosengasse 10, 8Rudolf-Brun-
Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 266 96 96, www.swisschuchi.ch. Get the In Your Pocket
Open 11:30 - 23:15, kitchen open all day. €€.
J­A­B City Essentials App

20 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
GUILD HOUSES
ZUM GRÜNEN GLAS
A little bit off the beaten track on the upper edge
of Niederdorf, the Zum Grünen Glas offers notable
Mediterranean-style cuisine in the noble atmosphere
of an old guild house. The classic here is the beef tartar -
it’s served either with basil and olives or Asian-style with
wasabi and mango chutney. And yes, it’s very tasty. You
will find fish, meat and some typical Zurich dishes like
geschnetzeltes and bratwurst on the menu as well.QF‑4,
Untere Zäune 15, 8Neumarkt, tel. (+41) 44 251 65 04,
www.gruenesglas.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00,
Sat 17:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun, kitchen open until 22:00.
€€. J­A­B

ZUNFTHAUS ZUR WAAG ITALIAN


The red carpet, the crown glass windows with guild BINDELLA
emblems and the old wooden chairs give the Waag Bindella is dedicated to Venetian cuisine and it’s not just
guild house on Münsterplatz a distinguished atmosphere the Neo-Baroque interior: fish and seafood rule the menu.
full of history. They serve Swiss classics and fish and Meat lovers get their money‘s worth as well. Try spaghetti
meat specialities, all interpreted in a modern way: the with clams (alle vongole) as a starter, continue with the
cordon bleu (made with veal of course) came rolled chopped calf‘s liver with risotto and finish off with some
and the mashed potatoes were served in a small glass Italian cheese. But no matter what you choose, if you like
jar on the plate. The food and the service were reliable, Italian food, we‘re convinced you will be more than pleased
the local wine rich - only the mix of cheese we had for with what you get. The service is good, waiters are smart
dessert was a bit uninspired for a restaurant of this class. and friendly and the atmosphere is not exactly quiet but
QE‑4, Münsterhof 8, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 216 all the more Italian.QE‑4, In Gassen 6, 8Paradeplatz,
99 66, www.zunfthaus-zur-waag.ch. Open 08:00 - tel. (+41) 44 221 25 46, www.bindella.ch. Open 11:30 -
24:00, kitchen open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 22:00. €€€. 23:30, Sun 17:30 - 23:00. In Nov & Dec Sun 11:30 - 23:00.
J­A­B Nonstop kitchen until 22:00, Sun 21:30. €€€. J­A­B

ZUNFTHAUS ZUR ZIMMERLEUTEN COMMERCIO


The Zimmerleuten is one of the best-known guild houses While the heyday of Italian cinema may be over, this
in town. The Küferstube on the ground floor serves solid small ristorante brings cinema and italianità together in
Swiss fare all day: classics like geschnetzeltes, bratwurst the most charming way. It stays lively well into the night,
with rösti and some fish options too. In winter they serve a thanks also to the visitors of the Arthouse studio cinemas
fondue outdoors on their terrace right on Limmatquai. The right next door. Surrounded by Art Deco elements, guests
restaurant on the first floor is their pride: the atmosphere squeeze into the slightly tight seats to enjoy a plate of
there is more up-market and the food on offer a touch pasta, something the Commercio has got off to a fine
more sophisticated (e.g. geschnetzeltes with filet).QF‑4, art. With a cinema ticket from Arthouse cinemas you
Limmatquai 40, tel. (+41) 44 250 53 63, www.zunfthaus get a price reduction of 10%.QG‑5, Mühlebachstrasse
-zimmerleuten.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:30, 2, 8Stadelhofen, tel. (+41) 44 250 59 30,
kitchen closes 22:00. Küferstube
124x40.pdf 1 11.01.201311:30 - 23:30 (kitchen
12:18:31 www.commercio.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, kitchen open
closes 22:30). €€€. J­A­B throughout until 23:00. €€. J­A­B

CM

MY
STAUFFACHERQUAI 1
8004 ZÜRICH
CY TEL. +41 (0)44 297 99 99
info@hotel-helvetia.ch
CMY www.hotel-helvetia.ch

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Restaurants
IL GIGLIO
VEGETARIAN & VEGAN Simple and down-to-earth Italian cuisine, that’s what
chef Vito Giglio has been offering for years now with
ELLE’N’BELLE great success in his small ristorante. As Vito cooks with
Elvis is alive! And vegan has gone rock’n’roll! Elle’n’belle is fresh ingredients from the market only, the handwritten
part of the vegan vague which has recently hit Zurich, and menu changes daily. Choose from three starters and two
you definitely can’t say it’s no fun. The menu starts with main courses for lunch or go for the four-course menu
the desserts, such as the blood-orange mousse with mini in the evening (around 90Sfr): home-made pasta, meat
marshmallows. One of our mains - a substantial burger and vegetables as a side dish and sweets. The Il Giglio is
with wasabi sauce and fries - also had US origins. This place pricey, but serves excellent food.QC‑4, Weberstrasse 14,
is young, buzzing and daring. The King would have loved 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 242 85 97, www.ilgiglio.ch.
it.QM‑7, Limmatstrasse 118, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) Open 11:00 - 14:30, 18:30 - 23:30, Sat 18:30 - 23:30.
44 448 15 20, www.ellenbelle.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. €€€. A­B
Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€. A­B
MOLINO
TIBITS At Molino they serve what you might call the canon of
The bounteous vegetarian buffet is the focal point of Italian food, in a classic atmosphere: bruschette or crostini
tibits - where everybody queues up to choose from as starters, pasta, pizze in traditional or more extraordinary
around 40 home-made salads, hot daily specials, soups, varieties and mains like saltimbocca (veal cutlet with
sandwiches and sweets. It’s more than plain tasty, ham and sage). We have always really liked their pizze,
believe us. tibits is very popular for lunch, dinner or especially the D.O.C. ones with authentic Italian produce.
coffee with all kinds of people. Sister restaurant ‘tibits im Molino won’t let you down if good Italian food is what
NZZ bistro’ around the corner at Falkenstrasse 12, +41 you’re after. QF‑4, Limmatquai 16, 8Helmhaus, tel.
44 260 32 12 (Open 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00). (+41) 44 261 01 17, www.molino.ch. Open 09:00 -
QG‑5, Seefeldstrasse 2, 8Opernhaus, tel. (+41) 44 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. €€. J­A­B
260 32 22, www.tibits.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:30, Fri 06:30
- 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:30, Food
served until 30 min before closing. (buffet, 4.20Sfr JAPANESE
(take away 3.70Sfr) per 100 grams). J­A­B­ NEW
MITSU
Unlike similar restaurants of its genre that cater to the sushi
W

crowd, small, charming Mitsu specialises in hot Japanese


meals. Whether you order the tofu, which was ‘cooked’
on the table for the final 10 minutes, the miso eggplant,
GETTING THE BEST the tempura vegetables or the pork belly, it all tastes
consistently great. The dishes are meant to be shared and
OUT OF FRUIT come with extra sauces and add-ons like ginger, matcha
AND VEGETABLES. salt, radish and the like. The staff really know what they’re
doing here and one can genuinely taste the chefs’ passion
for food. Unfortunately, Mitsu is only open temporarily until
March 2017. But we hear if all goes well, the place might
get a needed renovation and reopen afterwards.QC‑3,
Bäckerstrasse 37, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 242 37 76,
www.mitsumitsu.ch. Open 11:45 - 14:00, 18:30 - 22:00,
Sat 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. N

YOOJI’S BAHNHOFSTRASSE
No matter if you prefer your sushi as a nice dinner at
a table, a quick eat at the bar, to take away or from a
kaiten (conveyor belt): the five Yooji’s in Zurich all serve
good Japanese food. The one on Bahnhofstrasse features
two stories and works as a self-service restaurant. Grab
your sushi from the display cabinet and take a seat (or
Vegetarian & Vegan Restaurant take it out) or sit at the bar and pick some more daring
Bar Take Away Catering compositions from the kaiten. QE‑2, Bahnhofstrasse
Seefeldstr.2|Falkenstr.12
next to the Opera House, Zurich 102, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 212 12 25,
www.tibits.ch|www.tibits.co.uk www.yoojis.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 -
23:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00, Kitchen closes 22:00. Kaiten
(conveyor belt) starts 11:00. €€. J­A­B­
22 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
MEDITERRANEAN
BAR BASSO
We like the style at the Basso - it’s modern and pure,
without being super-cooled. The Italian-Alpine menu is
also definitely worth a mention, offering e.g. tasty tartar,
excellent cheese lasagne, served not in layers but open,
so to speak, and some great cuts of meat too. If in doubt,
go for the 5-course taster menu.QD‑3, Sihlstrasse 59,
8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 497 25 28, www.barbasso.ch.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. €€.
J­A­B

LES HALLES All set for a great dinner at Mitsu. ZIYP


This garage-style restaurant offers mostly organic food
from around the Mediterranean with a particularly ORIENTAL
French touch. The ever fresh moules et frites (mussels BEBEK
with French fries) are what a lot of people come here This restaurant is an architectural mezze platter: concrete
for, or the tasty beef tartar. The restaurant works like a walls, mosaic floors, high ceilings, chandeliers and a peek-
market hall: you place your order at the kitchen corner through window to the neighbouring tram shed. We love
and it‘s served to your table. It’s always very busy and the mix of concrete and orient. The menu is dominated
loud - so come here rather for the outstanding fresh food by food from Lebanon, Greece and Turkey. We tried the
and the industrial style than for a quiet evening with your Langstrassenteller - and loved what we got: skewers of
significant other. There is also a delicatessen in the back. chicken and köfte, tabouleh, tzatziki and chilli potatoes,
QL‑6, Pfingstweidstrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 everything was excellent. The service is a bit nonchalant,
273 11 25, www.les-halles.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu but friendly.QB‑3, Badenerstrasse 171, 8Kalkbreite, tel.
11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun, kitchen (+41) 44 297 11 00, www.bebek.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00,
open until 13:45/21:45, snacks & tapas througout. €€. Fri 07:00 - 01:00, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00,
A­B kitchen open throughout until 23:00. €€. A­B

Moules et Frites c´est chic.

Mediterranean bar/restaurant/market hall, located at the heart of the culture and


night-life district of Zurich West. Reservations: 044-273 11 25 or www.les-halles.ch

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 23


Restaurants
table in the room at the back.QH‑5, Klosbachstrasse 2,
SPANISH 8Kreuzplatz, tel. (+41) 44 383 70 60, www.bohemia.
BODEGA ESPANOLA ch. Open 06:45 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 06:45 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 -
If you’re looking for no-nonsense Spanish charm in Zurich 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €€. A­B
the Bodega is the place to head for. After an ‘hola’ from the
waiter, choose from the tapas on display at the counter: METZG
squid salad, figs wrapped in bacon, chicken wings etc. Metzg is a butcher shop and a restaurant in one. It specialises
(around 6Sfr each). A must-try is the excellent tortilla. in local meat, be it beef, pork, lamb or local game. By day
Then take a seat at one of the large tables – a short chat the restaurant operates as a takeaway for sandwiches and
comes easy as you’ll probably be sharing with other the like, but in the evening it’s a lovely, cosy restaurant with
guests. The waiters will also be pleased to put together table service. After perusing the small, yet ever-changing
a selection of tapas for you. Agree on a maximum price menu, we chose the pork heart with fennel to start, which
to avoid surprises. For dining in a slightly more classy was excellent. But what really sold us on this place was the
atmosphere visit the Sala Marisco on the first floor.QF‑4, Angus beef steak, which was tender and perfectly grilled - a
Münstergasse 15, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 23 10, real treat. The accompanying selection of baked beetroot
www.bodega-espanola.ch. Open 10:00 - 24:00, kitchen and a whole head of garlic perfectly complemented the
open until 23:00. €€. J­A meal. All in all a great experience with personal service and
a setting that could just as well be your family’s kitchen.
Recommended.QB‑3, Langstrasse 31, 8Helvetiaplatz,
STEAKS & BARBECUE tel. (+41) 44 291 00 88, www.metzg-grill.ch. Open 11:00
BOHEMIA - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. A­B
Bohemia’s waiters wear ties - and they’re not the only
thing with style around here. The tiled floor and the crystal
chandeliers give the Bohemia a distinguished atmosphere,
drawing both business people and the city’s in-crowd.
They mainly serve steaks grilled to your liking on the wood-
fire grill. Try their home-made sauces - we loved the just
slightly sweet ketchup. The bar area at the front can be
busy, so if you prefer a quieter atmosphere, try to get a

SWISS CUISINE
What the Swiss like to eat at home and when This could just as easily be your family’s kitchen: Metzg. PD
out is ­ heavily influenced by their neighbours’
cuisine, especially the Italians. But what is real SWISS
Swiss cuisine? Most Swiss would probably say:
käsefondue (cheese fondue), a hot soup of cheese As it’s sometimes hard to tell what Swiss cuisine really is (see
and white wine eaten by dunking cubes of bread Swiss cuisine overleaf ), we list some traditional restaurants
in it. Delicious, but the smell can take getting used here as well as some that interpret Swissness in a modern
to. Raclette is another cheese speciality, melted way. If you want to try the Swiss cheese specialities fondue
cheese on potatoes served with different pickles and raclette, see the box on p. 20. We list the traditional
and sides. Würste or sausages are also very Swiss, Zurich beer halls in a seperate category overleaf. They serve
the bratwurst (usually veal) and cervelat (pork) generous helpings of earthy local food - definitely not a
being the most common. Züri gschnätzlets is a bad way to explore Swiss cuisine either.
traditional Zurich dish, thin strips of veal cooked in
a cream sauce, often with mushrooms. This is often HELVETIA
served with rösti, a cake of fried grated potatoes, a On the first floor of the popular Helvetia bar (locals simply call
bit like Spanish tortilla but also on the list of Swiss it Helvti) much praised chefs Marek Sztukowski und Diego
traditionals. Switzerland also has an impressive von Büren serve refined, polished versions of standard Swiss
range of breads to go with the cheeses, e.g. the rich dishes. The meat loaf for example was simply excellent - it
zopf (plaited loaf ) is a favourite for Sunday breakfasts. must be some subtle mix of spices that does it. For starters
Fondue chinoise and fondue bourgignonne are not we can recommend the crayfish cocktail. Prices are not
traditionally Swiss, strictly speaking, but these two budget, but quite appropriate given the quality of the
meat fondues are very popular too. Both involve cooking, the white tablecloths and the exacting service.
dipping meat into a pot, full of either hot broth QD‑3, Stauffacherquai 1, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 297
(chinoise) or oil (bourgignonne) and then enjoying 99 99, www.hotel-helvetia.ch. Open 11:30 - 14:00, 18:30
with a range of sauces and sides. - 24:00, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. Bar 07:30 - 24:00, Fri 07:30 -
02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€€. J­A­B
24 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
continuing a tradition since 1981 Restaurants

niederdorfstrasse 31 — 8001 zürich

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December 2016 - January 2017 25
Restaurants
MARKTHALLE
QUICK EATS Eat modern Swiss cuisine in Zurich’s only market hall, built
underneath a railway overpass (part of the shopping mall
Im Viadukt). Start with bread and one of the many spreads
(try the tomato pesto!), or a portion of fresh sausages,
continue with some pasta, roast or meat from the grill.
And don’t forget the market-fresh vegetables. All dishes
are served on platters in the middle of the table, so you
can taste your friends’ orders too. And don’t worry if it feels
like an earthquake is coming on - it’s just a train passing
overhead.QL‑6, Limmatstrasse 231, 8Dammweg, tel.
(+41) 44 201 00 60, www.restaurant-markthalle.ch.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Mon 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00,
kitchen open throughout Sun - Wed 11:30 - 22:00, Thu -
Sat until 22:30. €€. A­B
Delish
MOHRENKOPF
Not surprisingly, there are plenty of options for a quick This is a pleasant place in plain style for Swiss fare, coffee
eat in Zurich, be it a speedy dinner or a snack on a tour and snacks or breakfast in the Niederdorf area, frequented
through the city’s nightlife. The Turkish kebab and its by tourists and locals alike. The menu offers classics like
variations are probably the most popular fast food chalbsgschnäzlets (veal in bite-size pieces) with rösti
and can literally be found everywhere. If you want (hash browns) as well as more unusual dishes like capuns,
something more local, go for a grilled bratwurst or a an Alpine speciality of sausage and dumpling wrapped in
cervelat (both Swiss sausages). In addition to numerous chard leaves. Try them, they’re a treat. If you fancy a sweet
Asian takeaways, there are more and more places for a to round off the meal, try a mohrenkopf, a chocolate
quick bite that specialise in salads, sandwiches and the covered marshmallow that gave the restaurant its name.
like. We list some of our favourites for you: QF‑3, Niederdorfstrasse 31, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel.
(+41) 44 262 05 45, www.mohrenkopf.info. Open 07:00
NEW - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00, Kitchen
DELISH open non-stop until 22:00. €€. J­A­B
Located in the Niederdorf part of the old town, Delish
is a café, a takeaway and a restaurant all in one. It also
happens to serve excellent food and the system is
simple. Go to the counter and ask the staff to put any
number of delicacies on your plate and then simply
pay according to the weight of your meal. There are lots
of vegetables and salads on offer and we particularly
appreciated the refined combinations and extra add-
ons, which create unexpected tastes like the sweet
potatoes with coriander or the beetroot combined with
feta cheese. It also offers plenty of warm dishes, some
with meat, and desserts, of course. In the morning an
all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet can be had for 30Sfr.
QF‑3, Marktgasse 17, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 266
10 15, www.delish.ch. Open 06:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat Markthalle has a pleasantly bustling atmosphere that’s hard to
06:30 - 24:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. €. J­A beat. PD

SCHÜTZENGASSE
STERNEN GRILL At Schützengasse the simple restaurant interior dating
This is the city’s most famous sausage grill joint. The back to the beginning of the last century was retained, but
bratwurst here is tasty and the mustard is a treat: made made much more light and airy. The menu majors on Italian
with horseradish it’s extra hot and fiery. No matter the dishes and a selection of high-quality meat cuts. The ravioli
weather, the take out on the ground floor is where with truffle cream sauce were very good and the swordfish
Zurich gets its bratwurst. You can also get grilled solid, only the lunch side salad was rather spiritless. They
chicken, French fries and on the first floor (grab a seat on also do a rare speciality: bone marrow of beef as a starter.
the balcony, if you can!) some simple Swiss dishes - but Popular with a well-dressed and slightly cool clientele.
the bratwurst is what Sternen Grill is all about.QF‑5, QE-2, Schützengasse 32, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel.
Theaterstrasse 22, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 43 268 20 (+41) 44 500 10 30, www.schuetzengasse.com. Open
80, www.sternengrill.ch. Open 10:30 - 23:45. €. 11:30 - 14:30, 18:00 - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed
Sun, kitchen open until 22:00. €€€. J­A­B
26 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants
WIRTSCHAFT IM FRANZ RHEINFELDER BIERHALLE
If too much choice makes you nervous, the im Franz is what The Rheinfelder is one of the oldest beer halls in town:
you’ve been looking for: you only have to choose between the a place where workers, students, and business men
vegetarian and the meat/fish menu in this restaurant (both alike go for the big portions, good prices and traditional
four courses). That’s the simple concept here. (If suddenly down-to-earth food - and lots of beer of course. The
that’s too simple, you can swap some courses). Wooden waiters have a rough charm, but usually serve the desired
tables, cyan coloured walls and deep black chairs make for dishes quickly: schweinsleberli (pork liver), bratwurst,
a relaxed atmosphere in this courtyard building. The food kidney, rösti or chnöpfli (small ball-shaped noodles). If
on offer is seasonal and of local origin, some compositions in doubt go for the jumbo-jumbo cordon bleu that the
daring, but the quality quite extraordinary. And the service Rheinfelder is famous for. But beware: the waitress will
here is really outstanding. We had a very nice evening.QB‑3, poke fun at you if you can’t take this piece of meat the
Bremgartnerstrasse 18, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41) size of an elephant’s ear.QF‑2, Niederdorfstrasse 76,
43 558 44 22, www.wirtschaftimfranz.ch. Open 11:30 - 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 251 54 64, www.rheinfelder.ch.
14:00, 18:00 - 24:00, Tue, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Open 09:00 - 24:00, Kitchen open until 23:15. €.
Sun. Menu around 90Sfr. €€€. A­B J­N­B

ZEUGHAUSKELLER
The Zeughauskeller (the arsenal) is one of Zurich’s biggest
beer halls. Situated in a mediaeval arsenal it serves good
solid traditional Swiss fare: generous helpings of meat,
sausages, schnitzel and roast. Popular with tourists, locals
and lads out for the night, it’s a place where it’s easy to get
to know people, as you share the big tables with other
guests. Old military devices standing around are there to
remind you where you are. So don’t get too drunk, you
might end up getting conscripted.QE‑4, Bahnhofstrasse
28a, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 220 15 15,
www.zeughauskeller.ch. Open 11:30 - 23:00, kitchen
open until 22:00. €. J­A­B

Sturdy architecture, solid food: Zeughauskeller. PD

ZUM KROPF
The main hall of this traditional restaurant is quite
impressive: the frescos above the wood panelled walls,
the painted vaults, the stucco marble pillar in the centre
and the mirrors with their rich baroque frames. The food is
traditional, hearty and good. They have Zurich classics like
geschnetzeltes and rösti, tripe Zurich style or calf’s head.
We went for one of their specialities, choucroute garnie
(sauerkraut with boiled beef, rib and sausage) and were
happy with what we got. They also have less daring food
like schnitzel and sirloin steaks. A good place to explore
hearty Swiss cuisine.QE‑4, In Gassen 16, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. (+41) 44 221 18 05, www.zumkropf.ch. Open 11:30 -
23:00. Closed Sun. €€. J­A

BEER HALLS
BRASSERIE FEDERAL
This is a beer lover’s paradise: More than 100 different Swiss Experience traditional Swiss food amidst
beers are sold in this huge hall situated inside the main train the splendid interior of a historical
station. You can try seven at one blow: for 9.90Sfr the waiter monument. Located in immediate vicinity –
will serve you seven beers from the tap in small glasses (1dl). on Bahnhofstrasse at Paradeplatz.
Food is Swiss-style, hearty and served fast: pasta with minced
meat, bratwurst or rösti with bacon and raclette cheese. open Mon-Sat 11:30 - 23:00
QE‑2, Bahnhofplatz 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 for reservations +41 [0] 44 221 18 05
217 15 15, www.brasserie-federal.ch. Open 11:00 - 24:00. www.zumkropf.ch
Kitchen open until 22:30. €. J­A
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 27
Cafés
Cafés in Zurich generally serve coffee Italian style (from
ristretto to cappuccino) and many draw on the rich Swiss
tradition of pastry and chocolate making. But there is
no fixed definition of a café, most also serve alcoholic
beverages, other snacks or even full meals and many
double as bars in the evening rather than closing.

AUER & CO
Hidden in a backyard, Auer & Co is our new favourite
place for a coffee around Limmatplatz. Located in an
old brick building that now hosts the Impact Hub co-
working space, it’s a tranquil location for a really good cup
of coffee or something more substantial, like one of its
tasty sandwiches. The wooden tables and some designer
At Bovelli the blackboard says it all. PD
chairs are a pleasant contrast to the industrial brick walls
and it also offers a lovely terrace with some wooden other successful endeavours, namely the bars Dante and Le
benches. Concerts and DJ sets can occasionally be heard Raymond.QE‑3, Sihlstrasse 20, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41)
on weekends and brunch events are held on Sundays. 44 210 40 60, www.bovelli.ch. Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat
QN‑7, Sihlquai 131, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) 76 307 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. J­A
77 89, www.auer.coffee. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Mon 08:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. B HENRICI
With the colourful jumble of tables and chairs, local graffiti
NEW art on the wall and its young staff, the Henrici has the cosy
BOVELLI feel of a backpacker’s paradise. The wide range of food and
Bovelli is a stylish café right in the city centre. Its high drinks is crowned by the outstanding coffee. Apart from the
ceiling, elegant wooden tables and designer lamps make classics like cappuccino or espresso, there are iced coffees,
for a smart atmosphere. The drinks and the food on offer is coffee cocktails and a selection of special blends. Foodwise
written on the huge blackboard behind the bar. In addition they offer quiches and flammkuchen among cookies and
to the myriad coffee variations and blends, it also has cakes.QF‑3, Niederdorfstrasse 1, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41)
plenty of desserts and some snacks, but if you head over 44 251 54 54, www.cafe-henrici.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
here later in the day for a break from shopping, you can Mon 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
try one of many tasty cocktails. In fact, the owners seem to J­A­B
have transferred their passion for mixed drinks from their
LA STANZA
This popular Italian-style coffee bar close to Paradeplatz
BREAKFAST offers excellent coffee as well as a variety of Mediterranean
liquors, wines and drinks - and the local beer Paul on tap.
Sunday breakfast is an institution in many
The rather well-dressed customers sit on the window
Swiss families. Zopf is one of the mainstays of Swiss
benches and sip on their sprizz (a mixture of prosecco
breakfasts, a rich white bread baked in the shape
and aperol liquor) served by the stylish black-tied owners.
of a braid, and is served with butter, jams, honey,
The stone bar and the huge steaming coffee machine (a
cheeses or cold meats. Swiss bakeries bake a huge
1963 Faema) in the back make the Italian experience
variety of breads - rye bread, maize bread or potato-
perfect. Soups and Italian snacks available - brunch
and-walnut bread to name just a few - which add
on Sundays.QD‑4, Bleicherweg 10, 8Paradeplatz,
to the breakfast spread. Buttery croissants, called
tel. (+41) 43 817 62 82, www.lastanza.ch.
gipfeli in Swiss German, are also a favourite. Another
Open 07:00 - 23:00, Thu 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 07:00 - 01:30,
breakfast dish with strong roots in Switzerland is
Sat 09:00 - 01:30, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. J­A­B
müesli, made of oat flakes, grated apple, ground
hazelnuts and yoghurt in the classic birchermüesli
RATHAUS
version.
This coffee bar is small but elegant, all timbered with bright
Here come our favourite breakfast places: wood. Have a coffee and enjoy the easiness of being, the
river Limmat flowing by just outside the window. Or have
BEBEK They serve nice à la carte breakfast variations with a cocktail or a Martini in the evening. On a mild, sunny
a Middle Eastern touch, every day until 16:00. See p. 23. day you can ask for a takeaway coffee, go to the platform
HAUS HILTL, ample vegetarian breakfast buffet, daily next to the river just outside on the left and sit with your
06:30 - 10:30, Sat until 11:30. On Sundays brunch buffet feet dangling over the water.QF‑3, Limmatquai 61,
09:30 - 14:30, all you can eat 57Sfr (E-3, Sihlstrasse 28, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 07 70, www.rathauscafe.ch.
(+41) 44 227 70 00). Open 07:30 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 07:30 - 23:00, Sat 10:30 -
23:00, Sun 10:30 - 19:00. J­A­B
28 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
Zurich’s nightlife offers classy clubs, casual and
alternative bars, as well as live-music venues and strip SYMBOL KEY
clubs. On the weekend people from almost half of
Switzerland come to the city to have a good time. The A Credit cards accepted N No credit cards
main nightlife areas are Niederdorf in the old town (F-
2/3), the streets around Langstrasse (C-1/2) and Zurich E Concerts K Restaurant
West (L-6/7). There is a lively club scene - but with dozens X Separate smoker’s lounge
of bars around, bar-hopping can be just as much fun. A
night out in Zurich can be great, but quite expensive. If
you’re heading for bars and clubs have some cash handy,
as not all venues take credit cards. If you prefer it on the LOFT FIVE
quiet side, there are wine and cocktail bars in the old town Just next to the main train station, in the newly developed
and around Paradeplatz. Check out our listings. For more district Europaallee, the Loft Five attracts a rather trendy,
recommendations check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com uptown crowd. Though you definitely fit in in your jeans as
well. The large bar has a certain club feel, huge standard lamps,
chandeliers, carpets, easy chairs, all in brown hues make it
CASUAL BARS really homely here. The house music usually played makes
ANDORRA sure your stay pumped for the upcoming night. Besides many
This small place with its jazz-inspired atmosphere offers cocktails you will find more than two dozens of different
everything a classic bar needs: five beers on tap (Guiness wines sold by the glass. There is a restaurant part featuring
and different types of the local Chopfab), an international meat specialities.QEuropaallee 15, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel.
selection of bottled beers and an excellent choice of single (+41) 44 755 50 50, www.loftfive.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00,
malts, cocktails and wines. If you’re feeling peckish they Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:30 - 02:00, Sun closed.
serve sandwiches, tapas, German weisswürste (sausages)
and beef tartar. Most of the time the music is pre-recorded,
but they have the occasional live band in from time to
time.QF‑4, Münstergasse 20, 8Rathaus, tel. (+41) 44
252 65 70, www.andorra.ch. Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
14:00 - 04:00, Open 17:00 - 01:00, Fri & Sat 14:00 - 04:00.
A­E­B­K

BANK
Industrial charm meets urban style in a former bank
building at Helvetiaplatz - that’s the ambience of this bar
in a nutshell. You can sit at one of two bars on stools or,
if you’re lucky, grab one of the small tables where you
can order one of its signature cocktails and ease into
your evening, just as all of the other hip locals do here. A
small menu of food is also available including classics like
grilled organic chicken, ribs and sandwiches or tapas-style
starters and platters. During the day the Bank doubles as
a café offering breakfast with a great selection of bread Old New York meets hipster Zurich at Rivington & Sons. PD
from the adjacent organic bakery, John Baker.QC‑2,
Helvetiaplatz, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 211 80 04,
www.bankzuerich.ch. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu 08:00 - CRAFT BEER BARS
24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. ERZBIERSCHOF
The craft-beer trend has definitely arrived in Zurich!
HOTEL RIVINGTON & SONS Erzbierschof serves 24 different beers on tap, a good few
A bar that looks like an old New Yorker bar (some parts of them usually from Swiss small and micro breweries. And
are even claimed to originate from New York) located in it’s not just the India pale ales every brewery seems to be
the Prime Tower, the city’s only modern skyscraper, does trying its hand at these days! Taps 23 and 24 often spout the
it all add up? We have to admit, it does! Get drink classics really exceptional stuff, like the cider-like sour ale we tested.
and snacks at one of the two bars (on two stories), chill The beers on offer change frequently - and they also have
on the wooden benches or get lost in the almost spooky standard lager beer to wash down all these different tastes,
staircase, complete with hunting trophies and white if needed. The bar has a very minimal kind of atmosphere,
tiles.QK‑6, Hardstrasse 201, tel. (+41) 43 366 90 82, but maybe that’s a good counterbalance to the bewildering
www.hotelrivingtonandsons.ch. Open 07:00 - 24:00, variety of beers.QD‑2, Freischützgasse 10, 8Sihlpost,
Mon 07:00 - 23:00, Thu 07:00 - 01:00, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, tel. (+41) 43 243 88 66, www.erzbierschof.ch. Open
Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. A 16:00 - 00:30. Closed Sun. A
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 29
Nightlife
CLASSY BARS
ONYX
Make sure you don’t miss the entrance to this top-notch
bar – it’s only marked by a tiny green sign on the huge
glass façade of the Park Hyatt. Once you find it you enter
a world of elegance: business people and travellers
mix with fancy locals and some wanna-be youngsters.
The bar crew will be able to fulfil almost all your wishes
– even climbing the sky-high wall behind the bar
with a ladder to get the bottle they need to mix your
preferred drink. Not inexpensive, but very stylish.QD‑5,
Beethoven-Strasse 21, 8Stockerstrasse, tel. (+41) 43
883 12 34, www.zurich.park.hyatt.com. Open 17:00 -
01:00, Mon, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. A Timeless design at Tina Bar. PD

TINA BAR a little bitter - a little great, really! While the interior is
This old-school smoker’s bar on the first floor of Brasserie rather earthy, the crowd is urban and relaxed. We’ll
Louis has been gently renovated, but still exudes much definitely be going again, and so should you.QB‑3,
of the charm of a bar from the good old days. The dark Elisabethenstrasse 28, 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 44 291
wooden bar and the green leather benches are timeless. 11 22, www.montblack-bar.ch. Open 17:00 - 01:00,
The crowd here is rather well groomed and some look like Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri 17:00 - 03:00, Sat 18:00 - 03:00.
they’ve been regulars for decades - but they don’t seem Closed Sun-Tue. A
to mind guests who are younger and maybe a little hipper
than themselves.QF‑3, Niederdorfstrasse 10, 8Rudolf- RAYGRODSKI
Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44 250 76 86, www.tina-bar.ch. The liquor bottles hanging upside-down from the ceiling
Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00, are an eyecatcher here, but certainly not the reason
Sat 15:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A­X why this bar is so popular with a young and fashionable
crowd. The ever-changing cocktails made with lots of
dedication, the twelve different vodkas available (served
COCKTAIL BARS with cucumber), the table service and the mix of the
MONTBLACK young, care-free atmosphere with some true style are
Have you ever had a chilli in your cocktail? Neither had the ingredients people love at the Raygrodski - and you
we until we dropped by Montblack, that is. ‘Freestyle can count us in too. On weekends a DJ spins some tunes.
cocktailing’ is what they claim to do here - and we QA‑3, Sihlfeldstrasse 49, 8Lochergut, tel. (+41) 79 109
couldn’t describe it any better ourselves. We boldly chose 49 49, www.raygrodski.ch. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00
the Fiery Strauss on our first visit and when co-owner - 02:00. Closed Sun. A
Brian started mixing the chilli, cucumber, strawberries,
gin and elderflower syrup, we were sceptical, but the
result made us true believers. A little sweet, a little hot, ALTERNATIVE BARS
HAFENKNEIPE
Though Zurich doesn’t have a port, sitting on the seats made
CASINO of wooden crates in the Hafenkneipe (‘harbour pub’) sipping
a beer or a straight whiskey makes you feel like your ship to
SWISS CASINOS ZÜRICH the brave new world will be leaving shortly. The world map
More than 350 slot machines and the table games behind the bar shows you where you could end up and
roulette, black jack, punto banco and texas hold’em the young, quite alternative crowd will be happy to drink
poker on two floors make this casino the largest a farewell shot with you anytime. Occasionally concerts,
in Switzerland. The stakes on the table games set mostly on Tuesdays.QD‑2, Militärstrasse 12, 8Sihlpost,
in at 2 Sfr – with practically no upper limit. For your tel. (+41) 43 322 02 82, www.hafenkneipe.info.
physical well-being there are two bars and a lounge. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Thu 17:00 - 01:00, Fri 17:00 - 02:00,
The casino also has a smoker’s section. To get access Sat 20:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. E
you need to be at least 18 years old, well dressed and
have a valid ID card or passport with you. The entrance MATA HARI
fee is 10Sfr. after 19:00.QD‑3, Gessnerallee 3-5, This Tiki-style bar is named after the famous exotic strip-
8Stauffacher / Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 330 30 30, dancer and spy from the Netherlands, and has a sort of
www.swisscasinos.ch. Open 11:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat exotic hard rock island feel. The omnipresent red plush, the
11:00 - 05:00. Table games start at 14:00. bar made of bamboo, the masks depicting gods with some
weird names and the cocktails that are served in ceramic
30 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
volcanos give the place its genuine, slightly bizarre touch.
Leave your tie at home and grab one of those old rock PUBS
t-shirts of yours you thought you were never going to wear KENNEDY’S IRISH PUB
again.QN‑7, Langstrasse 237, 8Limmatplatz, tel. (+41) The Kennedy’s is an Irish pub with a large outdoor area,
43 205 22 50, www.mataharibar.ch. Open 17:00 - 03:00, located close to the main train station. It’s popular with
Fri 17:00 - 04:00, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A expats and locals alike. They have Guinness, Smithwicks
and Magners Cider on tap and really helpful and friendly
TOTALBAR staff and of course all the major sports on different flat
Tiny, tinier, Totalbar: this alternative bar can only hold about and big screens. Besides burgers, salads and sandwiches
thirty people but its authentic atmosphere makes it well they do some genuine pies, for example a beef and
worth a visit. The bar opened more than 15 years ago, when Guinness one we liked very much. Pub Quiz on Monday
the Langstrasse district was more red-light than anything nights!QD‑2, Freischützgasse 14, 8Sihlpost, tel. (+41)
else, and not the all-inclusive nightlife area it is nowadays. 44 241 92 94, www.kennedys.ch. Open 11:30 - 24:00,
Since then they have been selling beer, liquors and Fri & Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. Kitchen closes
drinks at friendly prices. Not more than a simple bar - but 22:00. A­E­B­K
certainly not less.QC‑2, Tellstrasse 19, 8Helvetiaplatz,
www.totalbar.ch. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Thu 16:00 - 01:00,
Fri & Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
If you’re male and looking for the so-called ‘sins of
DANCE BARS the flesh,’ then Zurich has a lot to offer. Prostitution is
LONGSTREET legal in Switzerland, so you can find everything from
Hundreds of dimly gleaming old-fashioned light bulbs on strip bars and erotic massages to sex clubs and escort
the ceiling and the red plush on the wall make you think services in Zurich. While hardly an alpine Amsterdam,
you are entering a burlesque strip bar of the old days. But Zurich is an inviting destination if you’re looking for
don‘t be spoofed: there have been no half-naked girls carnal pleasures and sexy ladies in various states of
dancing on stage in this bar for years. Instead the hip crowd undress.
has taken over to party all week long: the small dance floor
upstairs with a DJ is packed almost every night.QC‑2, Prostitution is not only legal but is also regulated
Langstrasse 92, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241 21 72, by the city. Sex clubs need permission to operate
www.longstreetbar.ch. Open 18:00 - 02:00, Fri 18:00 - and this is only granted if a business follows all
04:00, Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun-Tue. A­X of the security, health, social security and tax
regulations, doesn’t place any undue pressure on
the sex workers, ensures their health and guarantees
violence prevention. For all these reasons, sex clubs
are probably the best and safest option if you’re
looking for sex in Zurich. Street prostitution is also
regulated, but is only permitted in a few areas (i.e.
Häringstrasse in the Niederdorf district) and only at
certain times.
Here are some reputable strip bars. Check our website
www.zurich.inyourpocket.com for erotic massage
parlours and sex clubs.
We believe the places we list to be upstanding
Valmann is packed as soon as local offices close. usgang.ch businesses, but we still recommend employing simple
common sense when delving into the world of adult
VALMANN entertainment.
On Thursdays the office workers of the city centre go crazy
after work in this dark venue in the financial district. DJs CALYPSO
spin the latest dance tracks while the chic crowd consumes The Calypso in the Niederdorf claims to have
vodka by the bottle and dances its ass off. But please leave the only shower show in town. Apart from that
your tie at home - or the bartender will be happy to cut it there is the standard stage with two poles and
off and hang it behind the bar, before you get your drink. a huge mirror in the back. Opens early.QF‑3,
The Valmann crew just thinks partying without a tie is Niederdorfstrasse 60, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44
more relaxed. And they do have a point there. Also valid for 252 33 70, www.calypso-nightclub.ch. Open
Fridays ans Saturdays at the Valmann.QD‑4, Talstrasse 58, 19:00 - 04:00, Fri & Sat 19:00 - 05:00, Sun
8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 497 31 31, www.valmann.ch. closed.
Open Thu 18:00 - late, Fri, Sat 21:00 - late. A
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 31
Nightlife
CLUBS
BELLEVUE
Yet another house and techno club! That was our first thought
when we heard the club Bellevue was to open. But we have
to say, we like this one. The lines of coloured lights on the walls
give the Bellevue something of a retro disco touch, while the
music is house in all its variations - all very danceable. You will
find the entrance on the rear side of the building, actually on
Freieckstrasse.QF‑4, Rämistrasse 6, tel. (+41) 44 251 33 40,
www.club-bellevue.ch. Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - late. A

DIE ZUKUNFT
Shake it, shake it, baby! At Mascotte, that is. PD
‘The Future’ is a small club in a Langstrasse district basement,
and is Zurich’s premier space for freaky electro, house and GONZO
crossover party styles. The entrance is hidden in a passage This small but very tight rock and pop club (strictly no
between two buildings next to the Bar 3000 (which electro music, hip hop & rap on Wed) really is worth
serves as a smoker’s lounge for the club). Getting past the queuing for. You head down some stairs just next to the
doormen is sometimes difficult, though the policy is not public phone on the corner and arrive in a cellar, where a
obvious: you just have to fit to the crowd already inside. dance floor, a bar and a constantly overcrowded smoker’s
QC‑2, Dienerstrasse 33, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 room await you for some serious rock ‘n roll. Gentlemen,
535 60 13, www.zukunft.cl. Open Thu 23:00 - late, Fri & start your engines! Tip: go early.QC‑1, Langstrasse 135,
Sat 24:00 - late. Wed sometimes concerts. Bar 3000 open 8Helvetiaplatz, www.gonzoclub.ch. Open Wed, Thu,
Tue - Thu 17:00 - 04:00, Fri 17:00 - 24:00. Sat 20:00 - 24:00. Fri, Sat 23:00 - late. Admission around 20Sfr, Wed & Thu
Admission around 20Sfr, Wed & Thu free. X free until midnight. X

HIVE
LIVE MUSIC VENUES The Hive has set the pace of Zurich West’s nightlife for
many years now and still does for house, techno and indie
Zurich offers all kinds of live music: jazz, pop, rock, dance – which they play on different floors. The crowd from
metal, indie, gothic and much more. You will find students to thirty somethings (usually) knows how to party.
bands playing somewhere every night of the week. The QK‑7, Geroldstrasse 5, 8Escher-Wyss-Platz, tel. (+41)
clubs and bars listed here focus on live music - we tell 44 271 12 10, www.hiveclub.ch. Open Thu - Sat 23:00 -
you what you can usually expect. Some are just open late, afterhours on Sun.
if there is a concert. For their daily programme, check
the websites - or find all concerts on www.zueritipp.ch. KAUFLEUTEN
The Kaufleuten club is an institution in Zurich’s nightlife:
EXIL the rich, the beautiful and wannabes like us queue up
National and foreign bands from indie rock through almost every weekday to party, mostly to electronic music
folk and rap to electro live on stage almost every night and disco-house sounds (sometimes party tunes, r’n’b and
of the week.QK‑6, Hardstrasse 245, 8Schiffbau, tel. hip hop or reggaeton). Dress to impress is the motto, and
(+41) 43 366 86 84, www.exil.cl. X for some people here looking the part seems to be very
important. Nevertheless, it’s a good place for a classy night
MOODS out.QD‑3, Pelikanstrasse 18, 8Sihlstrasse, tel. (+41)
With more than 230 concerts a year, the Moods is 44 225 33 22, www.kaufleuten.com. Open Tue, Fri & Sat
Zurich’s prime address for jazz, funk, soul, blues and 23:00 - 04:00/05:00, Sun 21:00 - 04:00, check website.
world music. Big international names as well as many Admission around 25Sfr. A­E­X
Swiss artists. After-show parties on the weekend.QK‑6,
Schiffbaustrasse 6, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 44 276 80 MASCOTTE
00, www.moods.ch. Bands like Arcade Fire, The XX, and MGMT played their
first ever Switzerland shows at the MAscotte. But it’s a very
ROTE FABRIK popular party place too. International DJs (Martin Solveig,
This centre of alternative culture funded by the city has Jazzy Jeff ) and local heroes spin their tunes for all kinds of
about 100 concerts a year on their variously sized stages. people: twens mix with thirty-somethings dressed from
Some bands are well established, others known by real chic to indie. Check its website for the programme!QF‑5,
insiders only. On Tuesdays often concerts in the Ziegel oh Theaterstrasse 10, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 44 260 15 80,
Lac restaurant.QSeestrasse 395, 8Post Wollishofen, www.mascotte.ch. Open 23:00 - late, Wed 18:00 - 02:00.
tel. (+41) 44 485 58 58, www.rotefabrik.ch. Closed Sun. Admission: Mon, Tue & Wed free, Thu & Fri
around 15Sfr, Sat around 25Sfr. A­E­X
32 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Zurich Nord
The part of the city behind the two hills Käferberg and sauces. The menu features pasta as well - but come on, who
Zürichberg is commonly referred to as Zürich Nord. The needs pasta if there’s meat?QO‑2, Schaffhauserstrasse
districts 7, 11 and 12 used to be independent villages and 352, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 28 80,
merged with the city in 1934. Close to the airport they are now www.rollis-steakhouse.ch. Open 09:00 - 23:30. Closed
home to many international companies, the trade fair, some Sun, kitchen open 11:00 - 22:00. €€. A­B
hotels and more and more restaurants and bars. You definitely
don’t have to go to the city centre to have a good night out. KAI
Close to the Oerlikon train station, the Kai is a classic
sushi bar with a modern and stylish decor complete with
RESTAURANTS conveyor belt: sit at the counter and grab one of the
CHEYENNE maki, nigiri or uramaki running by. There are tables as
The Cheyenne is the place for American food in Zurich well and a lot more than just sushi... Sunday night there
Nord: big burgers, spare ribs and Mexican-style burritos is all you can eat sushi for 69Sfr - book seats in advance.
are its specialities. Sit at large tables and watch all the QN‑1, Ellen-Widmann-Weg 2, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon,
important football and ice hockey games on the screens. tel. (+41) 43 538 42 47, www.kaibar.ch. Open 11:30 -
The signed NHL T-shirt of the famous Swiss player Mark 14:00, 17:30 - 23:00, Sun 17:30 - 23:00, kitchen open
Streit on the wall is Cheyenne‘s pride.QO‑2, Querstrasse until 22:00. (22 - 34Sfr). A­B
3, 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 313 90 90,
www.cheyenne-oerlikon.ch. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Kitchen TRES AMIGOS
open until 22:00, Tue - Sat until 23:00. Brunch on Sat & The nine exisiting Tres Amigos restaurants prove the
Sun 09:00 - 16:00. €€. A­B success of the simple concept: tasty Texmex food and drinks
in a colorful Mexican setting including the compulsory
sombrero on the wall. The branch in Zurich Nord is much
the same: nachos, enchilladas, fajitas, tacos - it’s all there for
you. As well as meat like spare ribs or beef fillet skewers and
sea food like shrimps.QO‑2, Querstrasse 16, 8Bahnhof
Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 44 311 82 52, www.tresamigos.ch.
Open 08:00 - 24:00, Wed 07:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 01:00,
Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:30 - 23:00, Kitchen open all day
until 22:30, Fri & Sat 23:30. €€. A­B

NIGHTLIFE
COOPER’S PUB
Located just next to Oerlikon train station (and in
Giesserei is steeped in industrial charm. PD
walking distance of the Swissôtel and the Courtyard
Marriott), the Cooper’s with its whiskey barrels and dark
wooden floor and panels, brings an Irish pub feel to this
GIESSEREI OERLIKON part of town. They of course have Murphy’s Red and
The Giesserei has made itself a name as a fine dining Guinness on tap, all the sports on TV and serve really
restaurant, though the place still has a feel like the last affordable burgers (13 - 21Sfr). There are also some steak
workers just left this ancient foundry a couple of weeks variations, pies and salads on the menu. Occasionally
ago. The menu is simple: every day there are a few different concerts. Cheers!QO‑2, Schaffhauserstrasse 359,
starters, main courses and desserts - an international mix 8Sternen Oerlikon, tel. (+41) 76 261 00 30,
according to the season and the desires of the kitchen www.coopers-pub.ch. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Fri 15:00 -
crew (3 courses approx. 40 - 80Sfr). Recommended. 02:00, Sat 13:45 - 02:00, Sun 13:45 - 22:00. K
QN‑2, Birchstrasse 108, 8Regensbergerbrücke, tel.
(+41) 43 205 10 10, www.diegiesserei.ch. Open 11:30 - JAIME EL BARCO
14:00, 17:30 - 24:00, Sat 17:30 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:30 The Jaime is a bar with a South American touch in
(brunch). €€. A­B Zurich Nord, just next to the Courtyard Marriott. Hot
panini for a snack, a frozen daiquiri or a margarita from
ROLLI’S STEAKHOUSE the cocktail menu or a beer will cheer you up after a
A very popular steak house: if you are a meat lover, this is hard day of walking or working. There is table football
the place to go - beef, pork, lamb, they have it all. But don’t and darts - quite some entertainment in this part of the
forget to book a place in advance. All steaks are served city.QN‑1, Otto-Schütz-Weg 5, 8Bahnhof Oerlikon,
on a hot stone - making you the grill chef yourself. Which tel. (+41) 44 310 21 70, www.jaime.ch. Open 09:00 -
also means there is no one else to blame if your steak is 14:00, 16:00 - 24:00, Sat & Sun closed. E
overdone. Steaks come with fries and three homemade
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 33
Sightseeing

Covered for winter: boats at the marina on Limmatquai below Fraumünster and St. Peter’s. | zuerichfoto.ch

Zurich’s largely intact mediaeval town on the one hand whose abbess had wide powers in Zurich. Women came
and its natural setting on the other are the city’s charms. on harder times in the 16th century. The little archway on
It also has an excellent range of museums and galleries the outer corner of Fraumünster (Poststrasse/Münsterhof )
showing international art. Admission to many places is free, was used to limit decadence and elaborate clothing, and
if it does cost we indicate the full price followed by reduced women’s wide hoop skirts had to fit through here, or else
price, usually the children’s price, e.g. 10/5Sfr. Museums are a fine was due. Since summer 2016 the crypt is open to
usually closed on Mondays. visitors. Be considerate, no photos, no visiting during
Sunday services.QE‑4, Stadthausquai 19, 8Helmhaus.
Open 10:00 - 18:00 (in Nov & Dec 10:00 - 16:00, Jan &
MAIN SIGHTS Feb 10:00 - 17:00). Admission 5Sfr, incl. audioguide
If you ask someone from Zurich which of the city’s sights (avialable in 8 languages) or brochure and admission to
represents Zurich best, they’ll probably point to the crypt museum. Groups must book time slots in advance.
Grossmünster, its unmistakable double towers making
it the closest Zurich has to a landmark. Wasserkirche and GROSSMÜNSTER
Fraumünster complete the trinity of famous churches. The two towers of the originally Romanesque Grossmünster
Lindenhof is where Zurich started off and is a lovely spot are Zurich’s landmark and they also offer a great view over
today, while the central police station is another unlikely Zurich, if you make it up the 187 narrow steps (4/2Sfr
lovely spot - unless maybe you’re escorted there. Its admission for the tower, open 10:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 -
entrance hall is splendidly decorated with work by Augusto 16:30. According to legend, Felix and Regula, Zurich’s
Giacometti. But two of Zurich’s major attractions are not patron saints, were beheaded at the site of the Wasserkirche
man-made at all: the lake and the Uetliberg peak. and then walked up to where the Grossmünster stands,
taking their heads with them. Centuries later the emperor
FRAUMÜNSTER Charlemagne was passing through Zurich and decided to
Today most people come to Fraumünster to see the found a church in honour of the martyrs - after a hint from
magnificent stained glass windows in the choir created his horse. Since the Reformation the church has a barren
by French artist Marc Chagall in the early 1970s, or the feel, alleviated only by the windows. German artist Sigmar
windows by Augusto Giacometti. But in days gone by Polke finished 12 simply beautiful windows in 2009, partly
this Gothic abbey dating from the 9th century was more made of semi-precious stones. Crypt and cloister with a
than just pretty. Fraumünster, which literally means museum on the Reformation are also accessible.QF‑4,
women’s abbey, belonged to the Benedictine convent Grossmünsterplatz, 8Helmhaus. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
34 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
GIACOMETTI MURALS
In the entrance hall to the city’s police headquarters, LAKE ZURICH
Augusto Giacometti’s (1877 - 1947) magnificent murals
adorn the vaulted ceiling and the walls. We think this
impressive work is a must see for any Zurich visitor! The
Giacomettis were a family of artists: Augusto’s cousin
Giovanni (1868 - 1933) and Giovanni’s son Alberto (1901
- 1966) were successful artists too. And while Alberto and
his haggard bronze figures are probably the best known
Giacomettis (you can see some of those figures in the
permanent exhibition at Zurich’s Kunsthaus), Augusto
had the strongest connection to Zurich, as he studied
and later lived here. And the murals in the entrance hall of
Zurich’s police headquarters (1923 - 1925) is not the only
work of his you can see in the city: he revitalised the art
of stained-glass windows, creating the choir windows in
the Grossmünster (1932), the window depicting paradise www.juanrubiano.com
in the northern transept of the Fraumünster (1945) and The lake is certainly one of the city’s highlights
windows in the Wasserkirche. The murals however, remain and a walk along the shores is a must, whatever the
the work he is best known for. Admission to the murals season. Start for example at Bellevue and walk along
is free, the opening hours are quite short though.QE‑3, the promenade towards Zürichhorn. After a few
Polizeiwache, Bahnhofquai 3, 8Bahnhofquai/HB. Open hundred metres a park fills the expanse between
09:00 - 11:00, 14:00 - 16:00, Admission free, ID required. the lake and the street. The huge Blatterwiese, also
known as Chinawiese because the Chinese garden
is just next to it, is popular for relaxing, sunbathing
or playing sports. There is also a playground for kids.
Continuing, you get to Zürichhorn, a small delta with
some lakeside restaurants and later still to the railway
station Tiefenbrunnen where you can hop on a tram (or
train) back to Bellevue. The western shore of the lake is
a bit less popular though just as nice for a walk. Start
at the Arboretum and walk along the shore passing
Enge port, the cactuses of the Sukkulentensammlung,
and the Mythenquai until you reach the Landiwiese,
a large field where many cultural events take place. If
you go just a little further, you can enjoy a beer in the
restaurant of the offstream cultural centre Rote Fabrik
Grossmünster Church in the back and Wasserkirche on the right. (red factory), marked by the red brick factory chimney.
www.juanrubiano.com
UETLIBERG LAKE ZURICH CRUISES
The Uetliberg is Zurich’s own little mountain, marking The Lake Zurich Navigation Company operates ships
the end of the Albis mountain chain on the western side of on Lake Zurich and the River Limmat. If you just want
Lake Zurich. It rises up to 869 metres a.s.l. - towering around ten minutes of captains’ uniforms and brass foghorns,
450 metres over the city. There is a lookout tower on top the routes Bürkliplatz-Wollishofen and Bürkliplatz-
(admission 2Sfr) bringing you to exactly 900 metres a.s.l. Zürichhorn are included in any public transport ticket
and offering a stunning view over the city, the lake and on covering zone 110, but starting Dec 11, 2016 you need
to the Alps. The mountain is a popular local recreation area to buy a 5Sfr. supplement (available on board). If that’s
all year round. There is a train (S10 from track 21 or 22) from not enough for you, go the whole hog with a roundtrip.
the main station twice an hour (more on weekends). Be There are different cruises all year round. They all start
aware that you need an additional ticket even if you have a from the port at Bürkliplatz close to Bellevue several
day pass for Zurich (with a day pass, buy a 1 - 2 additional times a day. The short cruise (90 minutes) for example
zones’ day ticket at the ticket machine). From the terminal starts in winter daily at 12:40 and 14:10, more frequent
station it’s an easy 10-minute walk to the peak with the on weekends, the 4-hour one daily at 13:30. Tickets and
lookout tower and a restaurant. You can also walk up from timetables are available at the port.QE‑5, Bürkliplatz,
the city to the peak. Take tram N°13 in direction Albisgüetli 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13 33, www.zsg.ch.
and get off at the last stop. From there two different paths Tickets for roundtrips 8.80-34.40Sfr plus 5Sfr
lead to the top, both take about an hour. You do not need supplement, children half the price, discount with
hiking equipment, but we recommend good shoes and Zurich public transport day cards.
staying on the path, especially in winter.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 35
Sightseeing
CONTEMPORARY CHURCHES
ARCHITECTURE See main sights at the beginning of this chapter for the
churches Fraumünster and Grossmünster.

ST. PETER
St. Peter church is the one with the huge clock-faces on
all four sides of the tower you can spot from far away. The
diameter of the clock-faces is almost 9 metres - they are
said to be the biggest in Europe. The first mayor of Zurich,
Rudolf Brun, was buried here in 1360 - a copy of his tomb
stone can be seen on the northern side of the church. The
nave of the church was finished in 1706, while the choir
and the tower date from a Romanesque church built in
1230. This was the first church in Zurich that was built as
a Protestant place of worship after the Reformation.QE‑4,
St.-Peter-Hofstatt, 8Paradeplatz. Open 08:00 - 18:00,
Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
The rather harsh ‘Neue Einfachheit’ (new simplicity) is
the style which was most readily associated with Swiss
architecture in recent decades. More recently, architects
MUSEUMS & ART
in Zurich have shaken off the austerity and a number of Zurich is a real city of museums - there are 43 of them with
architectural gems have been built in Zurich. all kind of exhibitions. We list the most popular ones and
the ones we like best. You can find more information in
KRAFTWERK 1 English on all the museums on www.museen-zuerich.ch.
Architects: Bünzli/Courvoisier and Stücheli Architekten
Kraftwerk 1 was built by a cooperative founded with
the aim of experimenting with new types of living
arrangements. Completed in 2000, the flats range
between 2 and 13 rooms in size, making it possible for up
to 15 people to share a flat and to organise their lives in
ways beyond the traditional family.QHardturmstrasse
261 - 269, get tram N°17 to Bernoulli-Häuser.
LIBRARY OF THE LAW INSTITUTE (RWI)
Architect: Santiago Calatrava Valls
In a quest to create more space for the university without
acquiring any new land, the Spanish architect who is Pleased to see Picasso at the Kunsthaus. Zurich Tourism (CD)
based in Zurich added two stories in steel and glass to
this 1909 building. He also roofed the inner courtyard FIFA WORLD FOOTBALL MUSEUM
and set into it a series of elliptic steel balconies finished This is the latest addition to Zurich’s rich museum scene - so
in wood, gaining even more space. From the bottom now there is actually someplace for football fans to visit in
floor where one enters, this construction appears as Zurich, the hometown of the International Federation of
an immense wooden sculpture (see photo above). Association Football FIFA. The museum is located just next
Apart from the library, completed in 2004, Calatrava is to Enge train station, not far from the lake. On three floors
also the creative spirit behind Stadelhofen train station and more than 3000 sqm it tells the history of football, the
(1984 - 1990).QG-3, Rämi­strasse 74, get tram N°5 or FIFA and the World Cup. On Planet Football on the ground
9 to Kantonsschule. Library open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat floor, the jerseys of all 209 FIFA member associations are on
08:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. show in a sort of rainbow - plus a timeline which takes you
through the history of FIFA. The second floor of the exhibition
is underground. It’s dedicated to the pioneers of football
LINDENHOF and the World Cup, showing dozens of artefacts of each of
This idyllic square on a little hill in Zurich’s centre used to the World Cups held since 1920, for example the tracksuit
be an important place. The Romans set up shop here and that football’s first real star Pelé wore in 1958. And yes, the
later mediaeval royals would stay here when travelling in original FIFA World Cup trophy is on display! The third and
the region. Check out the replica Roman tomb stone in the last floor is dedicated to the impact football has had and
right-hand wall of Pfalzgasse leading down and out of the still has on society. And there is a gaming zone with giant
square. The view from here over the Limmat is very pretty pinball machines where you and your kids can show and
and on sunny days you can join in a game of chess at the test your skills with an actual football. All in all an interesting,
back of the square.QE‑3, 8Rathaus. interactive and contemporary multimedia exhibition. Great
36 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
for football fans, but definitely not only. Download the
museum’s free app which transforms your phone into an MORE FOR LESS
interactive audio guide. A bistro, a café-bar, a shop and the WITH THE ZÜRICHCARD
Sportsbar 1904 on the ground floor round off the museum.
QD‑5, Seestrasse 27, 8Bahnhof Enge, tel. (+41) 43 388 You’re in town for only two days? Too short, but the
25 00, www.fifamuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun ZürichCARD can help you make the most of it.
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 24/14Sfr, students
18, kids younger than 7 free, families 64Sfr. For a busy day or two in Zurich,
you can’t really go wrong with
KINDERCITY the ZürichCARD. It gives you free
A science city for kids aged 1 to 12. See page entry to a number of great museums like the National
53.QChlirietstrasse12, Volketswil, tel. (+41) 43 204 30 Museum and dozens more. It also gets you a 10%
60, www.kindercity.ch. discount in lots of shops, e.g. Meng cutlery or Vollenweider
Chocolatier. You get free entry to several of Zurich’s best
KUNSTHAUS clubs and to the casino and many restaurants will give
Zurich’s major art museum has an impressive collection you dessert on the house with the card or some other
with work by many Swiss artists such as Füssli, Hodler, extra, if you have a main course first. The ZürichCARD
Segantini or Bill and the largest collection of Alberto also gives you unlimited use of trams, buses and trains
Giacometti’s work including some of his trademark within the city and includes the train trip from and to
haggard statues. Work by international artists like Manet, the airport, and the trip up to Zurich’s little mountain
Van Gogh, Kokoschka or Baselitz also please the eye and Uetliberg. Now that’s a deal!QThe ZürichCARD costs
mind. Additionally there are usually two very worthwhile 24/16Sfr for 24hr and 48/32Sfr for 72hr. Buy it at SBB
temporary exhibitions, one large, one small (see section counters, at the airport, train stations, at the tourist
Culture & Events). English language audioguides available. information at the main station or at all VBZ public
Café and shop on the ground floor.QG‑4, Heimplatz 1, transport sales points and from all ticket machines in
8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 253 84 84, www.kunsthaus.ch. town (stamp it before you set off!). Check their website
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed www.zuerichcard.com for the full range of discounts
Mon. Admission for collection 15/10Sfr, for exhibitions and other details.The ZürichCARD is issued by Zurich
22/17Sfr, combined ticket 25/18Sfr. Tourism who cooperate with Zurich In Your Pocket.

CITY TOURS

EXCURSIONS

Bookings +41 (0)44 710 50 50 www.switzerland-tours.ch


facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 37
Sightseeing
MUSEUM RIETBERG NONAM (NORTH AMERICA NATIVE MUSEUM)
An internationally recognised collection of art from The permanent exhibition of the North America Native
Asia, Africa and the Americas is on show at the Rietberg Museum shows over 700 objects like masks, boats or totem
Museum, in permanent and temporary exhibitions. As of poles from six regions in the USA and Canada. The exhibitions’
2013, the Meiyintang collection of Chinese ceramic art aim is to render a better understanding of the natives of
has been added to this, in an all new interior, making the North America and show the various ways the Inuit, Indian
Rietberg perhaps the top address for Chinese art in Europe. and Métis groups lived from the arctic north to the deserts in
The museum is housed in several period villas and pavillons, the southwest.QSeefeldstrasse 317, 8Tiefenbrunnen,
all set in Rieterpark, a park which is worth a visit in itself. tel. (+41) 43 499 24 40, www.nonam.ch.
QC‑7, Gablerstrasse 15, 8Museum Rietberg, tel. (+41) Open 13:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon.
44 206 31 31, www.rietberg.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Admission 12/8/6Sfr, families 25Sfr.
Wed 10:00 - 20:00, closed Mon. Admission: 18/14Sfr for
the exhibitions and the permanent collection, free for TRAM MUSEUM AND VINTAGE TRAM
children up to 16. Uniforms, ticket machines, model-trams and of course lots
of old trams from days gone by are on show in this one-
time tram depot. It’s quite a hands-on exhibition, so good
for kids, but also has a few things to say about how traffic
systems shaped the city - unfortunately in German mostly.
The last weekend of every month, a vintage tram brings
you there. It starts just off Bahnhofstrasse, on Usteristrasse
between McDonald’s and Globus.QForchstrasse 260,
8Burgwies, tel. (+41) 44 380 21 62, www.tram
-museum.ch. Open Wed, Sat & Sun 13:00 - 17:00. 10/5Sfr.

SIGHTSEEING TOURS
BEST OF ZURICH - ZÜRICH CITY TOUR
A city tour in an air-conditioned coach - including
a short stroll through the old town and a ride with
the Dolderbahn rack-and-pinion railway up into the
residential area Zürichberg. In little more than two hours
you get to see Bahnhofstrasse and the financial district,
the old guild houses and the universities. There is a
live commentary in English and German, audioguides
Can you smell the grease? Vintage trams at the Tram Museum. PD in Spanish, Russian, Chinese and Japanese available.
Many other tours on offer too. Check website.QE‑1, Bus
Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai / HB, tel. (+41) 44 710 50
NATIONAL MUSEUM (LANDESMUSEUM) 50, www.switzerland-tours.ch. Starts daily 13:00 at the
It will take you a while to get through the permanent bus terminal Sihlquai next to the main train station.
exhibition on Swiss history, but hey, it took centuries Tickets available on the spot, reservation by phone
to accumulate. Complete with sights, sounds, slides recommended. Tickets 34/17Sfr.
and secret bank accounts, this is not some bone-dry
collection of old things. There are four thematic areas: STORIES OF THE OLD TOWN - GUIDED WALK
the first section shows the history of migration and A professional guide will take you on this two-hour walk
settlement, the second examines religious and intellectual through the old town of Zurich. Discover the city’s history
history, the third is dedicated to Swiss political history and listen to anecdotes from its past in English and German.
and the fourth section focusses on economy. For most Good choice if you really want to see the old town, where
exhibits explanations in English are available. There are the bus tours can’t go. For other walks such as the ones on
temporary exhibitions on changing topics (see Culture
& Events section of this guide). This August the striking
concrete extension that has been built over the last
MARKETS
few years opened to the public. The museum has now FLEA MARKET KANZLEI
finally much more space for exhibitions, a study centre This is probably Switzerland’s biggest year-round flea
and a large restaurant. E-guide in the ‘National Museum’ market. Up to 400 people put their second-hand goods
app for your smartphone available in English and other on sale here every Saturday, professional traders as well
languages or hire a special device at the entrance.QE‑2, as people who are just flogging things they don’t need
Museumstrasse 2, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 58 466 anymore.QC‑3, Kanzleistrasse 56, 8Helvetiaplatz,
65 11, www.landesmuseum.ch. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu www.flohmarktkanzlei.ch. Open Sat 08:00 - 16:00.
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/8Sfr.
38 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Sightseeing
design and gourmet food ask at the tourist service at the
main station. Reservation by phone recommended.QE‑2,
Tourist Service Main Train Station, 8Hauptbahnhof,
tel. (+41) 44 215 40 00, www.zuerich.com. Starts at the
tourist service at the main train station. Daily 15:00, Sat
& Sun 11:00 (German) & 15:00 (English). Nov - March
only Wed & Sun 11:00, Sat 11:00 (German) & 15:00
(English). 25/12.50Sfr, 50% discount with ZürichCARD.

ZURICH TROLLEY EXPERIENCE


Ride around Zurich in a coach fitted out as a vintage trolley
bus with wood trimmings and colourful artwork - the likes
of which Zurich’s history has never seen. The two-hour
tour gives you an overview of the city showing you the
financial district, Bahnhofstrasse and a part of the old town The old town is one of Zurich’s prime sights - and is particularly
including the churches Grossmünster, Fraumünster and St. pretty when covered in snow. www.juanrubiano.com
Peter as well as the posh residential areas on Zürichberg. too: the so-called free walking tours. In Zurich they offer
Commentary is provided over headsets in eight languages daily guided walks through the old town, mostly in
(English, French, German, Japanese, Portuguese, Russian, English, on some days in Spanish too. The old-town tour
Spanish, Chinese, Italian on request). They also offer features all the classic sights and some history. They also
many other tours, for example to Lucerne, Mount Pilatus, have a Zurich West tour to the former industrial district
Jungfraujoch and more. Check their website.QE‑1, Bus and a Langstrasse tour. Tours last around 90 minutes and
Terminal Sihlquai, 8Sihlquai / HB, tel. (+41) 44 383 are a nice way to get a first feel of the city. Note that while
78 78, www.meiertours.ch. Daily 09:45, 12:00 & 14:00. these tours are technically free, you really are expected
Tickets 34/17Sfr, reservation by phone recommended. to tip at the end (the website says 11Sfr). Which is fair
enough. This way your guide is guaranteed to work hard
FREE WALKING TOURS ZURICH to make your tour worthwhile. Check their website for
Over the last couple of years they have popped up all available tours and meeting points, no need to book.
over Europe - and now have made their way to Zurich Qwww.freewalkzurich.ch.

meiertours.ch
Hans Meier Tourist Ltd. • Gray Line Switzerland
(0)44 383 78 78
Bookings +41

Daily
Excursions
• The Zurich Trolley Experience
with audio-guided commentary
• Regular Sightseeing Tours
Exciting tours to Glacier Paradise Mt.Titlis,
Jungfraujoch, Heidiland, Lucerne …
and many more.

THE LEADING SWISS TOUR OPERATOR

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R6528_MT_Ins_ZHiyp_Winter16.indd 1 December 2016 -06.11.16
January11:58
2017 39
Old-town stroll
at the top of Marktgasse and now you’re on the main
throughway of pedestrian Niederdorf, the other part of the
old town. On the right is 5 Cabaret Voltaire, from where
the Dada movement - jolifanto bambla o falli bambla - set
off to confuse the bourgeoisie in 1916.

A little further on to the left, set back in a little courtyard, is


Schober, a richly decorated sweets and pastry shop worth at
least a quick visit. Directly opposite are Schwarzenbach coffee
roasters - the irresistible smell gets even better if you stick your
nose inside. Strolling further along Münstergasse you pass the
Bodega Española on your right, where in the 1950s author
Max Frisch used to drop in for a beer and a few tapas.

A few steps along you’re at Zurich’s landmark Romanesque


- style abbey, the somewhat austere 6 Grossmünster
with its double towers and their rather unique, Neo-Gothic
spires added in the 18th century. Looking towards the river,
The Amazon fountain at the end of Rennweg. www.juanrubiano.com the third bridge, Münsterbrücke, appears and the graceful
Fraumünster Abbey is visible across the Limmat. Take
Zurich’s old town snuggles up to both banks of the river the steps from the Grossmünster courtyard down to the
­Limmat, so our old-town stroll does much the same and 7 Wasserkirche and the Helmhaus art gallery by the river
heads upstream, crossing two bridges and passing a third. and then cross the bridge to 8 Fraumünster (see p. 34)
We set off at the bridge named after Zurich’s first mayor, to gaze at the famous stained-glass windows by Chagall.
1 Rudolf-Brun Brücke, which is easily reached from You’ve seen all the really important parts of Zurich’s old
Bahnhofstrasse or by walking along the Limmat (down town now and can finish off with one of Zurich’s other
Bahnhofquai) from the main train station. At the bridge’s major attractions - the lake - which is just five minutes’ walk
south-western corner, just by the Swiss handicrafts shop, further along the river.
head down the steps to the metal walkway leading
upstream along the Limmat, almost touching the water

Stampfenbac

Weinbergstrasse
Neum
(Heiri-Steg). Soon you’re on a cobbled street (Schipfe), Main Train
ai
n hof q u

Auf der Mauer


Station
ü
Bahn
with some miniature antiques shops and boutiques on hofpl hlequ

hstra s
atz
B
ah

the right and the restaurant Schipfe 16, a work project for
ai
Bah nho e

s
fbrücke
asse
sse

unemployed and well worth a quick stop, on the left. Central


tra

scherg
ens

Schüt
zen
Löw

gasse
Linthe

Just after Schipfe 16 take the climb up to 2 Lindenhof Schw


Seile
eizerg
rgrab
(see p. 36), just turn right and up Fortunagasse and then left sse
enga
Zähringerstrasse

asse
Beat
en
se

into Lindenhof with its tall trees, one of the oldest parts of Usteri
tr as

strass
Bahnhofqua

e s
Zurich. The mediaeval German kings would stop over here e ühl
Niederdorfstrasse

rdm
Limmat

and the Romans also occupied the spot in their day and We trass
e
Härings
age. Take in the view over the parapet or play with the royals
rasse
Seideng

who are always here, in one of the games of outdoor chess. Uraniastrasse 1 Rudolf-Brun-Brücke
hofst

Mühle g a s se
Leaving Lindenhof opposite from where you entered (down
Bahn
sse a

Oetenbachgasse
Pfalz-Gasse), there’s a copy of the Roman tombstone which Badergass
e
e
mentions Turicum (Zurich) on your right, set in the wall. lgass
Spita
Schipfe

Limmatquai

asse
unag a sse
Fort B r u nng
Ren

Ahead of you is the church tower of 3 St. Peter (see p. Lindenhof


nwe

e
gass 2
K u tt el
g

36), our next destination situated on one of Zurich’s most


a sse

a tt
S t ü s si h o f s t
Pf a lz g .

arkt
ebg

peaceful squares (St. Peterhofstatt). Going left, either of l


Augustiner Wo h l Rinderm
gass gasse
the alleys (Weggengasse or Thermengasse) gets you to e L e uen e
ass
Bahnho

Str Rathausbr. Marktgasse elg


the second bridge, 4 Rathausbrücke, also known as the 4 5 Spieg
ehl
fstrasse

vegetable bridge because of the small fruit & veg market


g.

sse
3 nga
Schlüss

held here on Saturdays.


Peterstr
asse Anke
nsterg

se
terstras St.
St. Pe
elg.

Limmatqu

asse

On the other end of the bridge you have the Rathaus, the sse assen
town hall, to your right and the Rathaus café to your left. nga In G
re
ai

Bä e
Our rigorous ramble takes us straight ahead, across the c ke 6 ass
Münsterbrü
g
Tal

Kirch

tram lines on Limmatquai and into Marktgasse, where 8 7


a

sse
cke

Poststra
r

you’ll find one of Zurich’s prettiest flower shops. Turn right


40 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Shopping

Head in any direction for shopping: wintry Paradeplatz. | Zurich Tourism (BM)

Zurich has the reputation of a shopping city, even if not Niederdorf (F-3/4) Even if Niederdorf - the part of the old
quite that of London or Milano. Especially Bahnhofstrasse is town east of the river Limmat - is better known for dining
well known around the globe as one of the most exclusive and nightlife than for shopping, it’s well worth expanding
and expensive shopping streets in the world. For Swiss and your shopping tour into this quarter. Along the streets
urban design, the area around Langstrasse is a good spot. In Limmatquai and Niederdorfstrasse - both pedestrian areas
the way of shopping malls, Switzerland can’t match other - you will find smaller shops with up-to-date street wear,
European countries where huge centres are the order of the fancy shoes and fashion stores. The smaller alleys are also
day. But maybe that’s a good thing. The Sihlcity shopping well worth a peek.
centre, an easily reachable mall opened in 2007, is an
example of an innovative development - without being a Old Town (E-3/4) The old town between Bahnhofstrasse
giant. The malls and best shopping areas of the city are listed and the river Limmat is another shopping area not to
here together with other remarkable shops. Remember all miss. Try the pedestrian street Rennweg for example
shops are closed on Sundays except at the railway stations. with its international clothing brands and boutiques or
For more suggestions check www.zurich.inyourpocket.com Storchengasse with its luxury designer stores as well as
cutlery and souvenir shops.
The main shopping areas are:

Bahnhofstrasse (E-2/5)The Bahnhofstrasse leads from the


main railway station to the lake and is mostly a pedestrian
OPENING HOURS
area almost without traffic - but watch out for the trams! It’s Many shops on and around Bahnhofstrasse are open
world-famous for its luxury stores: find jewellery, watches Mon to Fri 09:00 - 19:00 / 20:00. Smaller shops
and designer boutiques as well as the big department including jewellers and shops outside the centre often
stores Jelmoli, Globus and Manor here. In recent years not to close at 18:30, some are closed on Monday mornings.
everyone’s pleasure more and more big foreign companies On Saturdays most shops open from 09:00 - 17:00
like Apple have opened stores on Bahnhofstrasse (or 18:00, department stores until 20:00). On Sundays
displacing some traditional Zurich companies - some say all shops are closed (except in train and petrol
Bahnhofstrasse is losing its atmosphere. Nevertheless a walk stations). Shops are open on Sundays Nov 27, Dec 4
down this famous street is a must for every shopping fan. and 18 for Christmas shopping. Banking hours are Mon
Wander into the side streets as well, where shops are no less - Fri 08:30 - 16:30.
luxurious and some more unusual little gems are hidden.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 41
Shopping
MANOR
LUXURY FASHION Manor is probably the most casual of the trinity of
ON STORCHENGASSE department stores on Bahnhofstrasse. It specialises in
young and casual fashion and sells its own brands as
If extravagant fashion and the world’s most exquisite well as brands of renown - they have something for
brands is what you’re after, the street Storchengasse in the everyone’s needs. Besides that, there are departments for
old town north of Münsterplatz is a must when in Zurich. beauty, sports, household and home electronics.QE‑3,
Here you’ll find a dozen or so designer and concept stores, Bahnhofstrasse 75, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 229
one next to the other, making this the hotspot for high- 56 99, www.manor.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
end fashion in town, especially for women. We list some
of the shops below, but if in doubt, just go for a round of
window shopping - you won’t be disappointed.
FASHION
MONCLER BOUTIQUE
This French label is best known for its sophisticated
quilted down jackets and coats. They also have
knitwear and accessories like bags and gloves, all for
both sexes.QE‑3, Storchengasse 8, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. (+41) 43 497 20 30, www.moncler.com.
MULBERRY
Here women will find the latest collections of playful dresses,
stylish jackets and very smart leather bags of the British label
Mulberry.QE‑3, Storchengasse 4, 8Paradeplatz, tel.
(+41) 43 497 36 10, www.mulberry.com. Open 09:30 -
18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
You’ve come to right place for extravagant fashion: Gaito. PD

BOOKS & MUSIC GAITO LUXURY GOODS


ORELL FÜSSLI - THE BOOKSHOP As the name suggests, this fashion store is not for the
Zurich’s biggest English-language bookshop stocks poor. Extravagant luxury fashion by international designers
thousands of fiction and non-fiction books, magazines, such as Dsquared2, Philipp Plein, Aphero and Tom Rebl for
audio books and DVDs - and all in English. It’s located men and women. All is carefully selected by shop owner
on the third floor of the Orell Füssli bookshop just Domenico Gaito - who also designs some fashion for his
off Bahnhofstrasse.QE‑3, Füsslistrasse 4 (3rd floor), very own label Gaito. Definitely worth a visit if you dare
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 04 44, www.orellfussli.ch. to wear real fashion - and have a little cash handy.QF‑4,
Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Münstergasse 2, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 261 18 24,
www.gaito.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
ZERO ZERO RARE GROOVE closed.
Ten thousands of vinyls from rock to hip hop and new
beats, from the 60s to the latest records. Thousands of CDs THE GALLERY
as well, mostly second hand. Just tell the staff what you This is a shopping
are looking for and they will try to help you find it.QC‑3, paradise for women
Bäckerstr. 54, 8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 85 20, - 20 fashion brands
www.zerozero.ch. Open 12:00 - 18:30, Thu 12:00 - 19:30, of renown such as
Sat 10:00 - 16:00, Sun & Mon closed. Guess, Marc O’Polo, Nikkie, G-Lab, Marina Yachting or
Liu Jo are on offer. The store has sections for casual
DEPARTMENT STORES trendy, modern contemporary, affordable luxury, jeans
fashion and accessories rather than being organised
JELMOLI by brands. And while fashion is at the core of this
They call themselves the house of brands - and that’s what store there are some lifestyle products like candles or
they are indeed: Hugo Boss, DKNY, Joop, Diesel, Tommy pillows as well. They have monthly offers for beauty
Hilfiger, Versace are just some of the fashion brands you products and even food or beverages, to make your
can find here. But there’s more than fashion: perfumes, shopping experience that bit more exciting. Sister
household goods, a huge sports and an electronics shop at Marktgasse 3/5 in the Niederdorf area.QE‑3,
department. And not to forget the Gourmet Factory Löwenstrasse 40, 8Löwenplatz, tel. (+41) 43 343
grocery store in the basement.QE‑3, Seidengasse 1, 95 71, www.thegalleryconcept.ch. Open 09:00 -
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 220 44 11, www.jelmoli.ch. 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, closed Sun.
Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
42 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
GRIEDER
If you’re looking for the latest women’s collections of the GLATT - YOUR FIRST SHOPPING DESTINATION
world’s top fashion labels, Grieder is the place to go. Be This is Switzerland’s most
it business suits for the office, evening gowns or leather popular shopping mall.
coats, it’s all there waiting for you to try it on. As well as There are typical Swiss shops
shoes and accessories. And it’s not just for women - they as well as international
have a remarkable men’s department as well.QE‑4, brands, watches and jewel-
Bahnhofstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 224 36 lery shops and department
36, www.bongenie-grieder.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat stores – around 100 shops
09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. spread out across 43,000m²,
all under one roof. It’s located just outside city lim-
NEW its, but it’s easy to get there. Take the S3, S9 or S12
RRREVOLVE FAIR FASHION train to Stettbach and from there take tram 12 to
rrrevolve specialises in fashion for men and women that the Glatt stop and you’ll be in this shopping para-
is produced sustainably with fair trade materials. You’ll dise in just 20 minutes.QNeue Winterthurerstrasse
find brands like Amedangels, Wunderwerk and Junglefolk 99, Wallisellen, 8Glatt, tel. (+41) 44 839 42 42,
here and it also has a concept store with accessories www.glatt.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun closed.
such as glasses and watches, bags, some furniture and
more just around the corner at Stüssihofstatt 7.QF‑3, MALLS
Niederdorfstrasse 17, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41)
44 272 95 61, www.rrrevolve.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat & SHOPPING CENTRES
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. IM VIADUKT
More than 30 shops and a market hall for groceries
nestled under the arches of a railway viaduct built in the
19th century. Not a classic shopping mall but a street with
one shop after another. The emphasis is on small and
trendy fashion labels rather than the big luxury brands,
studios and concept stores. In the market hall, more than
30 vendors offer their goods, like fresh food and cured
meats.QL‑6/M‑6, Limmatstrasse 259, 8Dammweg,
www.im-viadukt.ch. Closed Sun.

SIHLCITY
A true shopper‘s paradise, opened in 2007 on the
grounds of an industrial-age paper mill. Modern
Sustainably produced fashion on display at rrrevolve. PD architecture carefully blends with the factory buildings
which house more than 80 shops from fashion to
STRÄULI electronics, restaurants, a hotel, a spa and a multiplex
At Sträuli they sell fashion, sportswear, shoes and accessories cinema. Easily accessible from the city centre by tram
for men and women by brands like Donna Karran, Fay, N°13 & 17 in direction Albisgütli or N°5 in direction
Alberto Fasciani and such. They call it casual luxury, and Laubegg - or take the S4 train, exit at Saalsporthalle.
actually the slogan fits pretty well: casual but elegant QB‑6, Kalanderplatz 1, 8Sihlcity Nord, tel. (+41) 44
fashion, carefully selected, is what they offer.QRennweg 204 99 99, www.sihlcity.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Coop
30, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 00 96, www.straeuli.ch. grocery store until 21:00. Sun closed.
Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed.

Orell Füssli The Bookshop


3rd Floor, Füsslistrasse 4, 8001 Zürich
+41 (0)44 211 04 44
English-orders@orellfuessli.ch

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Ins_BS_ZH_inyoupocket_072016.indd 1 December 2016 -11.07.16
January14:16
2017 43
Shopping
CHOCOLATES & SWEETS OUTDOOR CLOTHING
& SPORTS
BÄCHTOLD SPORT
This traditional sports shop (in business since 1912) is
located directly on Bellevue and features all sportswear
and gear from ice skating to racket sports to running and
trekking. Experts are on hand to offer you advice in each
section. In summer they also have beach fashion like bikinis
and flip flops. So a visit might pay off even if you’re not a
sporting ace.QF‑4, Rämistrasse 3, 8Bellevue, tel. (+41)
43 244 84 14, www.baechtoldsport.ch. Open 09:00
- 18:30, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun
closed.

Full contents online:


Läderach Chocolatier Suisse
zurich.inyourpocket.com
LÄDERACH CHOCOLATIER SUISSE
The traditional Swiss chocolatier Läderach sells freshly OCH SPORT
produced chocolate, filled chocolates and pralines. You At Och Sport you’ll find just about everything for any kind
even get an insight into the craft of confectionery here, of sports on three storeys: tennis, badminton, trekking,
as some of the chocolate is actually produced on site running, skiing, swimming and much more - they have
- creating irresistible aromas!QE‑2, Bahnhofstrasse it all. On top of this huge choice, there is also fashion
106, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel. (+41) 44 211 53 72, and outerwear - but sports definitely comes first here.
www.laederach.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - Sister shop at Limmatquai 78.QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse 56,
18:00. Closed Sun. 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 215 21 21, www.ochsport.ch.
TEUSCHER CONFISERIE Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun closed.
More than a hundred different flavours of Swiss chocolate,
marzipan, biscuits and the famous champagne SHOES
truffles made according to Adolf Teuscher’s traditional
recipe.QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse 46, 8Rennweg, OXBLOOD SHOES
tel. (+41) 44 211 13 90, www.teuscher.com. This store is for shoe aficionados. They mainly have top-
Open 09:00 - 19:00, Thu & Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 quality business shoes on offer, most of them made
- 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 16:00. of Shell Cordovan leather (from a particular part of a
horsehide only) for a special rich and glossy look. Only
exclusive shoemakers use this leather from the Chicago
SHOPPING IN THE leather company Horween: Ludwig Reiter, Cordwanier and
AIRSIDE CENTER AT Allen Edmonds for example. Needless to say the shoes at
ZURICH AIRPORT Oxblood don’t come cheap. But true quality has its price,
Zurich airport’s passenger always.QD‑2, Europaallee 19, 8Sihlpost / HB, tel. (+41)
area is a shopping centre 44 240 51 51, www.oxbloodshoes.com. Open 11:00 -
too! And quite a large one, 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
in fact: more than 60 shops
are located in the Airside
Center which is accessible only to passengers. Here
you can find literally anything you might be looking
Time to take up sport again
for. Be it Swiss watches, fashion or souvenirs, it’s all
there, Swiss as well as international brands of course.
In the many Tax & Duty Free Stores you can buy tax
free spirits, perfumes, tobacco and other goods. And
yes, chocolates are widely available too. The many
restaurants and bars serving Italian, Asian and Swiss
specialities make the Airside Center complete. So if you
arrive at the airport early - don’t worry. You can use the
time to hunt around for that last gift or souvenir - or Bahnhofstrasse 56 and
have a fine meal before you take off!QZurich Airport, Limmatquai 78 in Zurich.
www.zurich-airport.com. Open 06:00 - 22:00. www.ochsport.ch

44 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com


OCH_60x45_Anz_ZH_Pocket_e.indd 1 05.07.16 15:33
L É M A N G R A N D B L E U

Caran d’ Ache. Swiss Made excellence since 1915.

ZÜRICH – Löwenstrasse 19
carandache.com
Shopping
NEW knives, scissors, watches and more ideas for gifts to
LE MAJORDOME take home. Sister shop at Poststrasse 4 (E-4).QE‑3,
Le Majordome is a Swiss shoe label that produces classic Rennweg 31, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 18 48,
welted custom-made shoes for men and women. They’ll www.mengcutlery.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:00
measure your foot precisely to get the correct fit and then - 17:00. Closed Sun.
produce any model from their collection with the material
of your choosing according to your specific size. Needless MESSER-SCHARF
to say, the shoes will fit like a glove, or in this case, a perfect Pocket knives are part of Swiss cultural heritage,
shoe.QJosefstrasse 22, 8Sihlquai / Hauptbahnhof, tel. and messer-scharf takes great pride in this heritage.
(+41) 41 790 08 85, www.lemajordome.ch. Open 11:00 You’ll find an extensive range of knives and other
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. products by Victorinox and Wenger, such as kitchen
implements, watches or rucksacks. messer-scharf
also stock high-end kitchen knives by Chroma.QF‑4,
Oberdorfstrasse 25, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) 44 251
01 20, www.messer-scharf.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00,
Sat 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

SCHWEIZER HEIMATWERK
Swiss handcrafted souvenirs of high quality: fashion
accessories, toys, bells, books and fondue sets all with
lots of Swiss crosses, red and white colours, cows
and edelweiss. Sister shop at Bahnhofstrasse 2.QE‑3,
Uraniastrasse 1, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke, tel. (+41) 44
222 19 55, www.heimatwerk.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00,
Stylish, custom-made welted shoes at Le Majordome PD Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

ZÜRICHFOTO.CH
SOUVENIRS Photographer Rolf Müllestein sells souvenirs of Zurich
DOLMETSCH beyond army knives and cow bells: authentic black and
They offer classic Swiss souvenirs and gifts such as the white pictures of the city of Zurich, the old town, the lake.
Swiss army knives from Victorinox, many watch brands QF‑4, Kirchgasse 32, 8Kunsthaus, tel. (+41) 44 251 21
as well as a large choice of Swiss textiles like T-Shirts and 45, www.zuerichfoto.ch. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 -
outdoor fashion. Free engraving service on Victorinox 16:00, closed Sun & Mon.
knives for customers directly in the shop. Sister shop Swiss
Shop 1291 at ShopVille underground at the main railway
station.QF‑2, Limmatquai 126, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 SWISS DESIGN
251 55 44, www.dolmetsch.ch. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun CARAN D’ACHE
11:00 - 20:00, In summer Fri & Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Caran d’ Ache is the renowned Swiss producer of writing
instruments. In their Zurich boutique you will find
MENG CUTLERY their entire collection - everything from pens, pencils,
Meng Cutlery just off Bahnhofstrasse offers classic markers and fountain pens to paints and paint brushes.
Swiss souvenirs such as army knives by the famous Their boxes of colour pencils are a classic present for
brands Victorinox and Wenger. Also in stock: other children, but you can also just treat yourself to one of the
elegant pens.QD‑3, Löwenstrasse 19, 8Löwenplatz,
tel. (+41) 44 273 90 00, www.carandache.ch. Open
09:00 - 18:30, Mon 10:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.

FREITAG
The Freitag brothers produce all kinds of bags made out of
old truck tarpaulins and used seat belts from cars. They‘ve
been at it since 1993 and with great success. The flagship
store is made of 17 old freight containers stacked up to
make a tower, so you can choose from hundreds of bags
on four floors. From the top of the tower you can spot the
trucks on the neighbouring ‘highway’-bridge across Zurich.
QL‑7, Geroldstrasse 17, 8Schiffbau, tel. (+41) 43 366
95 20, www.freitag.ch. Open 10:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 -
18:00, Sun closed.
46 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
GRIS
The Gris store at Europaallee might just be your best bet TEDDY’S SOUVENIR-SHOP
for a proper look at contemporary Swiss fashion. Here you’ll At Teddy’s they have a wide
find clothes and accessories by roughly two dozen local range of souvenirs and
designers all in one spot. The concept here is unique as the gifts. Whether it’s watches,
designers pay rent to the shop for the space they use, and cowbells, hats, music box-
therefore keep most of what you pay. That said, not every es, soft toys, pocket knives
designer can participate. They have to be selected by the or clothes you’re after:
shop’s owners who curate this retail space to ensure that you’ll find it all at their shop
you’ll always find a great selection by the hottest local on Limmatquai, just next to the church Grossmün-
designers.QD‑2, Europaallee 33, 8Sihlpost/HB, tel. ster. And it’s not just souvenirs of Zurich, like beer
(+41) 44 515 23 56, www.gris.ag. Open 11:00 - 19:00, glasses with the city’s coat of arms, but from all over
Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun closed. Switzerland. For example the sännechutte, a tradi-
tional shirt worn by alpine herdsmen since days of
yore. And yes, this souvenir shop is open even on
Sundays.QF‑4, Limmatquai 34, 8Helmhaus, tel.
(+41) 44 261 22 89, www.teddyssouvenirshop.ch.
Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 11:00
- 17:00.

WELSCHLAND
At this small delicatessen you can find all the
specialities of the Romandie, the French speaking
western part of Switzerland, where people are said to
be more relaxed than around Zurich. Be it sausages
(for example saucisses aux choux with cabbbage)
many cheeses, wines or absinth - it’s all there.QB‑3,
Zweierstrasse 56, 8Bahnhof Wiedikon, tel. (+41)
43 243 98 50, www.welschland.com. Open 09:00 -
21:00, Sun closed.
At Giahi they have fancy accessories as well as tattoos. PD

TATTOOS & ACCESSORIES


SWISS FOOD NEW
GLOBUS DELICATESSA GIAHI
In the basement of the Globus department store you’ll With three locations in town, Giahi is a Zurich favourite
find almost any kind of food imaginable, be it organic when it comes to tattoos. Each salon has both resident and
Swiss cheese, meat specialities from across the country guest artists, but they don’t just do tattoos. The Niederdorf
or perfectly ripe exotic fruit from around the world. It’s outlet, for example, also offers extravagant accessories and
not only Swiss produce, but we are almost certain you attire from wristbands, rings and earrings to all kinds of
will find every Swiss delicacy you might be looking for. piercings, belts, bags and more. They also do permanent
Not a cheap shop, but with an impressive diversity.QE‑3, makeup.QNiederdorfstrasse 20, 8Rudolf-Brun-Brücke,
Schweizergasse 11, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 58 578 tel. (+41) 44 432 70 70, www.giahi.ch. Open 10:00 -
11 11, www.globus.ch. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun closed. 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Swiss Shop 1291 funny Swiss souvenirs and Swiss


Entrance Bahnhofstrasse textiles. We have largest range Limmatquai 126, 8001 Zürich
8001 Zürich, Shop Ville of Victorinox famous Swiss tel. +41 44 251 55 44
tel. +41 44 211 61 32 knives and engrave all knives www.swiss-shop-1291.ch
www.swiss-shop-1291.ch for free in our shops within
few minutes. We also sell most
famous Swiss made watches.

Auswahl an Souvenirs und


Schweizer T-Shirts, sowie
Victorinox Taschenmesser und
Swiss Made Uhren. Wir gravieren
bei uns gekaufte Messer kostenlos
vor Ihren Augen.

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 47


Watches & Jewellery
Switzerland is the country of watches - yet another
cliché? Actually, it couldn’t be more true. More than 95% TAX FREE SHOPPING
of all watches with a value of over 1000Sfr are made in
Switzerland! The Swiss watch industry started off in Geneva As a foreign resident you are entitled
around 1600, founded by Huguenots who had fled France. to a refund when making purchases
Zurich however is a prime shopping spot for watches today. for more than 300Sfr (including VAT),
Whether on busy Bahnhofstrasse or in a quieter corner, you provided the goods leave the country
will find a huge selection of brands and models here. The within 30 days. You will get back the
next couple of pages will guide you! VAT, which in Switzerland is only 8%
- minus a handling fee. It’s as easy
BEYER WATCHES & JEWELLERY as this: watch out for the Global Blue - Tax Free sign.
For more than 250 years Beyer has been selling and When paying, ask for a tax refund form. When leaving
repairing watches. The family business is now managed Switzerland, present your purchases, receipts and
by the eighth generation. Beyer specializes in selling passport to Swiss customs officials. They will stamp
some of the world’s most sought-after brands, such as your tax refund form. To claim an immediate refund,
Patek Philippe, Rolex, Breguet, Hublot, IWC, Chopard and present your stamped tax refund form at a Global
Cartier, as well as its own Beyer brand. The neighbouring Blue refund point (e.g. at Zurich Airport or all around
Patek Philippe boutique is also managed by Beyer and Europe). For more infos see www​.global-blue​.com.
offers a wide range of exclusive timepieces.QE‑4,
Bahnhofstrasse 31, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 43 344 63 DEGUSSA GOLDHANDEL (GOLD & SILVER)
63, www.beyer-ch.com. Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - At Degussa, you can invest in gold and silver and other basic
16:00. Closed Sun. materials. They have their trademark bars and ingots on stock
for you - choose them in their Zurich showroom. Their gold
bars for example come in sizes from 1 to 1000 grams, the ones
up to a size of 100 grams are minted, the heavier ones come
in the classic cast form. Other than gold and silver they sell
rhodium, platinum and palladium bars and many investment
coins from around the world.QD‑5, Bleicherweg 41,
8Tunnelstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 403 41 10, www.degussa
-goldhandel.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat & Sun closed.

GÜBELIN
Since 1854 Gübelin have been selling jewellery, watches
and precious stones. You will find their own jewellery lines
New York, Madagascar, Paris and Atlantis as well as many
renowned watch brands such as IWC Schaffhausen and
Jaeger-LeCoultre.QE‑4, Bahnhofstrasse 36, 8Paradeplatz,
tel. (+41) 44 387 52 20, www.guebelin.ch. Open 09:00 -
18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun.
Maybe one of these? A fine selection of watches at Christ. PD IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN BOUTIQUE
Swiss luxury watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen has
BUCHERER its very own Zurich boutique. Find their iconic automatic
Jewellery and Swiss watch boutique established in 1888. watches, be it the pilot’s series or the diver’s watch family
Top brands like Rolex, IWC, Longines and Rado as well as and exclusive models only available in their flagship
their own brand Carl F. Bucherer.QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse 50, stores. All presented in a hyper designed shop which
8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 26 35, www.bucherer.com. includes a relaxing lounge area.QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse
Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, closed Sun. 61, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 211 00 55, www.iwc.com.
Open 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
CHRIST WATCHES & JEWELRY
With more than 70 shops, CHRIST is the biggest jeweler KURZ JEWELLERY AND WATCHES
in Switzerland. Find top watch brands like Rado, Tag Kurz have a large selection of jewellery e.g. by Chopard and
Heuer, Certina, Frederique Constant and their very own from their own workshops, as well as a broad range of mainly
CHRIST Swiss Made as well as many fashion jewels. There Swiss watch brands like IWC Schaffhausen, Omega, Zenith,
are sister shops at the department stores St. Annahof Maurice Lacroix, Tissot, Rado and many more (sister shop
(Bahnhofstrasse 57, E-3) and Jelmoli (Seidengasse 1, E-3). at Globus, Schweizergasse 11, outlet store on Uraniastrasse
QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse 78, 8Bahnhofstrasse, tel. (+41) 26).QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse 80, 8Bahnhofstrasse/HB, tel.
44 212 14 47, www.christ-swiss.ch. Open 09:00 - 19:00, (+41) 44 219 77 77, www.kurzschmuckuhren.ch. Open
Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 09:15 - 18:30, Sat 09:15 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
48 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Watches & Jewellery
LES AMBASSADEURS

W W!
Find a large selection of Swiss watches and jewellery in
the newly renovated Les Ambassadeurs store. They have
long established partnerships with leading brands such
as Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, Breguet, Breitling, Jaeger-
LeCoultre, Jaquet Droz, Longines, Vacheron Constantin,
Omega as well as Pasquale Bruni and Pomellato. Their
sales staff provide expert advice in many languages.QE‑3,
Bahnhofstrasse 64, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 227 17
17, www.lesambassadeurs.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat
09:30 - 17:00, Sun closed. Welcome to Switzerland’s
first destination for watches and
jewelry with a selection of
PARTIME
more than 50 exclusive brands.
This Swiss designer watch simultaneously shows the time
of day and how much of the day is left. The blue area within
a circle represents the amount of time still remaining in the
day, while a white area gradually eats into the blue. Find it at
Teddy’s Souvenir Shop and the retailers indicated on page
50 - 51, order it in the webshop, or ask for an express delivery
to your hotel.QF‑4, Teddy’s Souvenir Shop, Limmatquai
34, tel. (+41) 43 422 00 11, www.partimewatch.com.

SWAROVSKI
Swarovski is not just crystals - but if you’re an aficionado
you won’t need telling that. Their Zurich location offers
jewellery, watches, fashion accessories and objects for the
home. And it’s not only for the fairer sex, take a look at their
men’s collection!QE‑2, Bahnhofplatz 7, 8Bahnhofplatz,
tel. (+41) 44 211 10 20, www.swarovski.com. Open
09:00 - 20:00, closed Sun.

TISSOT BOUTIQUE
The traditional Swiss watchmaker Tissot has its very own
boutique on Zurich’s Bahnhofstrasse. Find all their latest
watches for men and women in their modern salesrooms.
QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse 94, 8Bahnhofstrasse / HB, tel.
(+41) 44 221 28 66, www.tissot.ch. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.

TÜRLER
Come here to see the famous Türler clock - next to the
entrance of the shop it doesn’t simply indicate seconds
and minutes but the whole movement of the cosmos, the
planets and the horizon as well. Of course, they sell watches
and jewellery too: Tissot, Rado and Longines or even more
luxurious brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre and Breguet.QE‑4,
Bahnhofstrasse 28, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 221 www.christ-swiss.ch
06 08, www.tuerler.ch. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 -
17:00. Closed Sun.

VAINARD
Vainard creates classic diamond jewellery as well as a
more daring designer’s collection - inspired by Art deco
and modernity with strong black and white contrasts, be
it rings, earrings, bracelets or bangles. This jewellery almost
eludes description - perhaps it’s best if you go and have
a peek yourself.QE‑4, Schlüsselgasse 4, 8Paradeplatz,
INTERL AKEN | LUZERN | ZÜRICH | GENF | L AUSANNE | MONTREUX | LOCARNO
tel. (+41) 44 210 04 44, www.vainard.com. Open 10:00
- 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun closed.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 49
Watches

Christian Goldschmiede, Limmatplatz 1


Chopard Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 40

IWC Schaffhausen, Bahnhofstrasse 61


Central Jewellery, Limmatquai 138
Cartier Joailliers, Pelikanstrasse 6

Christ at Jelmoli, Seidengasse 1

Feist Daniel, Seefeldstrassse 45


Affolter Max, Limmatquai 82

Dolmetsch, Limmatquai 126


Bucherer, Bahnhofstrasse 50

La Serlas, Bahnhofstrasse 25
Airbijoux, Bahnhofstrasse 1

Breguet, Bahnhofstrasse 31

Gübelin, Bahnhofstrasse 36
Bulgari, Bahnhofstrasse 25

Heinicke, Limmatquai 32
Christ, Bahnhofstrasse 78
Beyer, Bahnhofstrasse 31

Kurz, Bahnhofstrasse 80
Galli, Theaterstrasse 16
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

A. Lange & Söhne •


Audemars Piguet •
Balmain • • •
Baume & Mercier • • • •
Bell & Ross
Beyer •
Blancpain
Breguet • • •
Breitling • • •
Bulgari •
Cartier • • •
Certina • • • • •
Charriol •
Chopard • • • •
Corum •
De Grisogono •
Ebel • •
Eterna •
Franck Muller
Girard Perregaux •
Hublot • •
IWC Schaffhausen • • • •
Jaquet Droz •
Jaeger-LeCoultre • • •
Jowissa •
Longines • • • • •
Louis Erard • • • • •
Maurice Lacroix • • •
Mido • • • • •
Mondaine • • • •
Movado
Omega • •
Oris • • •
Parmigiani Fleurier •
Patek Philippe • •
Piaget •
Quinting •
Rado • • • • • •
Raymond Weil • • •
Rolex • •
Swatch • • •
Swiss Military • • • • • •
TAG Heuer • • • • •
Tiffany
Tissot • • • • • • • • •
Ulysse Nardin •
Urwerk
Victorinox Swiss Army • •
Vulcain
Wenger
Zenith • •
Zurich Partime • • •
50 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Watches

Patek Philippe Boutique, Bahnhofstr. 31


Les Ambassadeurs, Bahnhofstrasse 64

Omega Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 48

Tissot Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 94


Rolex Boutique, Bahnhofstrasse 17
messer-scharf, Oberdorfstrasse 25
Meister Uhren, Bahnhofstrasse 33

Swatch Store, Bahnhofstrasse 52

Tiffany & Co, Bahnhofstrasse 14


Oscar Stahel, Gerbergasse 5
Meng Cutlery, Poststrasse 4

Meng Cutlery, Rennweg 31

Türler A., Paradeplatz


ZÜRICH BAHNHOFSTRASSE 64 +41 44 227 17 17
19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 WWW.LESAMBASSADEURS.CH


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facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 51


Zurich for kids
Are we there yet?! Children have their own idea of how
to have a good time and stylish bars or Gothic cathedrals SHOPS
may not exactly do the trick. But no fear, there’s plenty
to do with children in Zurich. Find more suggestions on FRANZ CARL WEBER
www.zurich.inyourpocket.com. This is the toy shop in the city centre. On four almost
never-ending floors there is virtually anything you
might be looking for, from first toys for newborns to
MUSEUMS & ZOOS tech toys for grown ups and books as well. There is a
MÜHLERAMA small pizzeria on the ground floor too. From December
Anything you ever wanted to know about your daily bread. 27 Franz Carl Weber will be located at Bahnhofplatz
This former-mill-become-museum has a whole lot to say 9.QE‑3, Bahnhofstrasse 62, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41)
about growing wheat, milling flour and baking bread. The 44 210 20 40, www.fcw.ch. Open 09:00 - 18:30, Thu &
industrial mill is still functional and is put into action almost Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
every day by a miller on site. With lots of hands-on exhibits,
this is a good place to go with children (age 5+). There are LOTTI’S WELT
baking lessons on Saturdays and a shop where you can buy A delightful little shop full of imaginative, colourful
flour made by this mill. Take tram N°2 or 4 with direction things for children. Whether it’s dresses, bibs, nappy
Tiefenbrunnen.QSeefeldstrasse 231, 8Tiefenbrunnen, bags, hats or toys - they’re all made with lots of love
tel. (+41) 44 422 76 60, www.muehlerama.ch. Open by local designers.QC‑6, Waffenplatzstrasse 49,
14:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, closed Mon & Tue. 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 43 344 51 71,
9/5Sfr. www.lottiswelt.ch. Open 10:00 - 12:00, Tue, Thu & Fri
also 14:00 - 18:00. Sun & Mon closed.

forest and the enclosures are accessible all the time.QAlte


Sihltalstrasse 38, Sihlwald, tel. (+41) 44 722 55 22,
www.wildnispark.ch. Get there by train from Zurich’s
main train station with the S4 (SZU) to Wildpark-Höfli
(enclosures) or Sihlwald (visitors centre), in approx. 30
min plus a walk. Restaurant and visitor’s centre in the
park (open March - October).

ZOOLOGICAL AND PALEONTOLOGICAL


MUSEUMS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF ZURICH
A giant sloth waits just beyond the entrance here, but
At Kindercity, it’s not just the sweets that make children happy. PD luckily it’s only a reconstruction, so you can even stroke
it. Animals large and small are displayed stuffed or as
SIHLWALD WILDNISPARK skeletons: jaguars, kangaroos, platypuses, giant crabs. You’ll
Sihlwald is a protected forest which is much left to its be amazed what exists in the animal kingdom. Insects can
own devices - so animals and little adventurers feel very be viewed under a microscope, and your children and
much at home here. Some animals, like the buzzards, you can listen to the songs of 280 different birds, and see
are here of their own accord, while others - bears, deer, them as well. The paleontological section features marine
European bisons, otters, beavers, wildboar and more - live dinosaurs from when Switzerland was covered by an
in enclosures. All of them are indigenous to Switzerland ocean, as well as giant ammonite fossils, land dinosaurs like
and can be watched here almost as if in freedom. The triceratops and skeletons of woolly mammoths. No café,

Playfully discover science


T he most e xc it ing Sw iss Family- Center
Play with science (from babies to adults)
The ‘factory‘ (Chocolate, Labor, cooking, cars, creative)
Outdoor area with driving school
y
Fac tor r vat ion
Themed restaurant and Edustore
From Zürich Mainstation – S-Bahn S9 or S14 (15 minutes) · Open 363 days a year Re s e 3 0 6 0
4
Chlirietstrasse 12 | 8604 Volketswil ZH | www.kindercity.ch 0 43 20

52 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com


Zurich for kids
but a rest area where you can eat your own food.QG‑3,
Karl Schmid-Strasse 4, 8ETH/Universitätsspital, tel. RESTAURANTS
(+41) 44 634 38 38, www.zm.uzh.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00, KAFI FÜR DICH
Sat & Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Mon closed. Admission free. This café next to the park Bäckeranlage has a children’s
corner where your young ones can paint the walls with chalk
or play with one of the many toys while you sit and have a
PARKS & SPORTS coffee or a drink. On weekends the place is so popular with
Little guests need room to jump and run. Not to mention parents you have to weave your way through the many push
swim, skate or canoe. The most central playground is next chairs standing around. Well worth a visit even without your
to Lindenhof (p.36, E-3) and there is a large one next to the kids.QB‑2, Stauffacherstrasse 141, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel.
Chinese garden (G-7). The Gemeinschaftszentren (or GZ), (+41) 317 91 60, www.fuerdich.ch. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri
community centres of the city also have good playgrounds. 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.

GEMEINSCHAFTSZENTREN PIZZA PASTA CIAO!


(COMMUNITY CENTRES) This restaurant has a playroom for kids with a baby sitter.
The 17 community centres, called Gemeinschaftszentren, So you can enjoy their classic Italian food all the way to
are co-funded by the city. They function as a meeting point the espresso and be sure your kids are having fun too.
for the residents of a district and can be visited by anyone The menu features everything that comes to your mind
for free. They usually have a playground for kids and a little when you think Italy: from home-made pasta to pizza to
café-bar, many offer organised activities and some even meat like filetto di manzo (beef filet). Needless to say the
have some farm animals to watch and stroke. A visit is sure place is popular with families - and not just Italian ones.
to be fun for you and your kids, not just because you are QI‑5, Asylstrase 125, 8Klusplatz, tel. (+41) 43 499 07
likely to meet other families there. Here we list some cool 12, www.pizzapastaciao.ch. Open 10:30 - 14:00, 18:00 -
and more central ones, see www.gz-zh.ch for all locations. 24:00, Sat & Sun 18:00 - 24:00, closed Mon. A
They are usually open 10:00 - 18:00 (17:30 in winter) and
some 14:00 - 17:00 on the weekend:
• GZ Schindlergut, Kronenstrasse 12, +41 44 365 24 40 Read more reviews online:
• GZ Wipkingen (on the river), Breitensteinstrasse 19 a, zurich.inyourpocket.com
+41 44 276 82 80
• GZ Wollishofen (on the lake), Bachstrasse 70,
+41 43 243 11 37
Welcome To THE MoST
KINDERCITY
Kindercity is a science city for children aged 1 to 12, much
FAMoUS PARADISE oF ToYS
more hands-on than a museum - and when did you last FoR CHILDREN, SINCE 1881.
do bungee-jumping in a museum? Different so-called
knowledge lanes are dedicated to topics like the human
body, renewable energy or modern communication, using
sight, sound, smell and action to let children discover,
accompanied by an adult. There is a café, open-air play
areas, magic trains and a car driving school on the roof
for under-aged drivers - and much more. From Zurich,
take trains S9 or S14 (direction Hinwil/Uster), change at
Schwerzenbach to bus N°725, get off at Volkiland, Chliriet
(duration: 22 minutes).QChlirietstrasse 12, Volketswil,
tel. (+41) 43 204 30 60, www.kindercity.ch. Open daily
10:00 - 18:00. Daypass (cinema and knowledge lanes)
27.50Sfr, activities can also be booked separately e.g.
knowledge lane 15.50Sfr (19.50 adults).

SWIMMING BATHS OERLIKON (HALLENBAD)


Zurich’s biggest indoor swimming baths and the best with
children. There’s a 25-metre pool for non-swimmers, a children’s
pool with water toys, a 50-metre pool for good swimmers
and a diving pool. Get there on tram N°11 (plus a good 5
minutes walk) or buses N°63 or N°94.QWallisellenstrasse Until 24/12/2016 Bahnhofstrasse 62,
100, 8Messe/Hallenstadion, tel. (+41) 44 315 67 77, From 27/12/201662,
Spielsachen,
Bahnhofstrasse Bahnhofplatz
die Zürich,9,versüssen.
Träume
8001 www.fcw.ch
www.sportamt.ch/schwimmen. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Mon, 8001 Zürich • fcw.ch
Tue, Thu 06:00 - 20:00. Admission: 8/6/4Sfr, under 6 years free.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 53
Leisure
If you’d like to escape the winter chill, there are plenty
of things to do in and around Zurich. Show your friends and
colleagues who’s boss with a competitive game of laser tag
or show off your smarts in an escape room.

ANIMAL PARKS
ZURICH ZOO
Zurich Zoo is located on Zürichberg high above the city.
The pride of this zoological garden which was opened
in 1929 is the Masoala Rainforest hall, simulating the
ecosystem in the Masoala National park in Madagascar
on some 10,000sqm. Animals like lemurs or giant
tortoises can move freely around in the hall as you watch
and walk by on a path through the forest. Keep your eyes
peeled, probably a chameleon is sitting on a branch
right next to you. But the rainforest is not the only thing team with the highest score wins. Make a reservation on its
worth seeing. Since 1992 Zurich Zoo has gradually been website or just drop by to have some great laser fun with
changing the traditional-style enclosures into whole friends, family or colleagues.QC-6, Brandschenkestrasse
ecosystems which better meet the animals’ needs, the 178, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 848 31 23 12,
latest being the new 11,000sqm elephant park.QJ‑1, www.laser-arena.ch. Open Wed 14:00 - 22:00, Thu 18:00
Zürichbergstrasse 221, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 848 96 69 - 22:00, Fri 18:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 -
83, www.zoo.ch. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Masoala hall 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue. One 12-minute game costs
opens at 10:00. Admission 26/19 (16 - 25 years)/13Sfr, 15Sfr for adults and 12Sfr for children under 16 years.
free for kids up to 5 years. Book more than three games and get a discount.

NEW
FUN & GAMES ZURICHESCAPE
LASER ARENA Escape games seem to be popping up all over the place. The
Yay! Zurich finally has laser tag! Hide behind obstacles basic idea is simple. You and your team are locked in a room
on different floors and tag as many of your opponents as and have 60 minutes to reach the exit. You achieve this by
possible with your laser gun to score points. But watch solving puzzles, finding hidden objects and working together
out, or you might get tagged yourself. That said, it’s worth as a team. At ZurichEscape you can choose between two
mentioning that unlike paintball, this is a completely different rooms, each with its own theme. In addition to this,
harmless game, so no protective gear is required. All you it also offers both indoor and outdoor escape missions. For
need is a laser gun and a sensor on your chest to play. The these you’ll have to leave the premises to solve the riddles
Laser Arena is a big space that can accommodate up to 24 and accomplish the task. Games are meant for two to six
players and you can play with two big teams or split up into players. No German is needed as solutions are primarily found
smaller groups. A game lasts 12 minutes and the person or using symbols and numbers and the rules are explained in
English beforehand. Book a time slot on its website.QC-2,
Zeughausstrasse 51, 8Sihlpost/Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41)
Get the In Your Pocket 43 317 19 19, www.zurichescape.ch. First game starts daily
10:00, last one at 20:15. Book slots in its website. Prices
City Essentials App start at 90Sfr and depend on the room, the time and the
size of the group.

WHY DO YOU PLAY LASER TAG?


BECAUSE PLAYING LASER TAG IS AWESOME!

Brandschenkestrasse 178
8002 Zürich

54 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com


Winter joys
In winter, Zurich is often covered by a thick layer of
high-altitude fog. That doesn’t sound very pleasant, but in MOUNTAIN TOURS
fact fog is way better than clouds in Switzerland as all you
have to do in this case to get some sun is to climb a nearby BEST OF SWITZERLAND TOURS
mountain. Or even better: ski it. There are many resorts so Day trips organised by tour
close to Zurich that it’s worth going to one just for the day. operators are an easy way to
These resorts listed here open as soon as there is enough explore Switzerland and its
snow, usually by the end of November or mid-December. gorgeous mountains. Forget
Always check the conditions before you leave. The Swiss the hassle with timetables,
Federal Railways SBB offer combined tickets (including itineraries and the like. Just
train and bus travel and the lift pass) to many of these snuggle into your bus seat and let them guide
resorts. But of course the city offers some winter fun like ice you through the day. Best of Switzerland tours for
skating and thermal baths too - see our suggestions below. example offers daily trips from Zurich to Pilatus, Rigi,
Titlis and Jungfraujoch. For instance you can take the
rotating gondola up to Titlis (more than 3000 metres
WINTER ACTIVITIES asl), where an encounter with ice, snow and a glacier
IN THE CITY await you, including sledging on snow tubes if you
FONDUE CRUISE like. They also have a city tour to Luzern. Just check
Every Tuesday and Thursday evening at 19:15 the Fondue their website for available tours and book up to a day
Ship sets off for a 2.5 hour cruise on Lake Zurich. On Tuesday before - online or by phone. The tour busses leave
the Swiss national dish cheese fondue is served, on Thursday from the Zurich Bus terminal Sihlquai, just next to the
fondue chinoise (meat) is on the menu. Dinner while Hauptbahnhof (main train station), close to track 18.
cruising the lake with a view of Zurich by night - not bad at Qwww.switzerland-tours.ch, tel. (+41) 44 710 50 50.
all.QE‑5, Bürkliplatz, 8Bürkliplatz, tel. (+41) 44 487 13
33, www.zsg.ch. Starts Tue and Thu 19:15 at Bürkliplatz,
book in advance by phone. Runs Oct 4 - April 25, 2017. SKATING RINK DOLDER (KUNSTEISBAHN)
No cruises from Dec 22 - Jan 10. In Dec additional cruises Surrounded by woods above Zurich, the Dolder skating
on Mondays (cheese) and Fridays (meat). No meat fondue rink is a great little winter getaway. If there is snow, it
cruises in April. Tickets 55/27.50 (cheese), 80/40Sfr (meat). looks like a winter fairytale up here. Take tram N°3, 8 or 15
Fondue included, drinks and side dishes extra. to Römerhof and then hop on the little red Dolderbahn,
a cogwheel railway, up to the last station (6 minutes).
FONDUE TRAM There’s a self-service restaurant on site.QAdlisbergstrasse
A Swiss fondue (melted cheese in a pot) including an 36, 8Römerhof, tel. (+41) 44 267 70 80,
evening city tour - that’s what you get in the decorated www.doldereisbahn.ch. Open 09:00 - 22:30, Sun 09:00
fondue tram. Board the tram at Bellevue and enjoy your - 17:45, Open from October 7 - February 26, 2017. Wed
dinner during a two-hour trip through the city - wherever ice rink closed from 17:45 - 19:15. Admission 8/6/4Sfr,
the tram rails lead. The menu includes a welcome drink, a families 40Sfr. (incl. skates), ice skate rental 7Sfr.
starter plate with dried meat from the Grison Alps, and as
much fondue as you like. Have a glass of white wine with
it - or two. You can clean the steamed-up windows with
a special wiper so you can enjoy the sightseeing part too.
Book your table in advance online, by phone or at the VBZ
ticketerias, the Zurich public transport ticket shops.QF‑5,
8Bellevue, tel. (+41) 848 80 18 80, www.fonduetram.ch.
Runs November - February. Starts 17:30 & 20:15, on
Sun 16:30 & 19:15. Sat & Sun additionally 12:00. Tickets
95/48Sfr (children up to 12 years), drinks extra.

SAUNA SEEBAD ENGE


This is no ordinary city sauna - at Seebad Enge the sauna is
located on a platform floating on Lake Zurich. So when it’s
time to cool off, you can step out onto the pier and jump
into the lake. There are three saunas, one only for women.
Massages and other treatments are available. A very
pleasant option for spending a cold winter evening.QD‑6,
Mythenquai 9, 8Rentenanstalt, tel. (+41) 44 201 38 89,
www.tonttu.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.
Mon women only (all three saunas), Sun only mixed, Ice skating at Dolder is fun for all ages. PD
otherwise mixed/women. Admission 29Sfr.
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 55
Winter joys
THERMAL BATHS SKI RESORTS
& HAMMAMS FLUMSERBERG
65 kilometres of slopes and 18 lifts await you in Flumserberg,
the biggest resort between Zurich and the Grison Alps
in eastern Switzerland. After a 60-minute train ride to
Unterterzen (change in Ziegelbrücke), a cable car takes you
up to Tannenboden, from where you have access to the ski
resort. Slopes are generally wide and not too steep - but on
the highest mountain Leist (2,200m above sea level) even
skilled skiers will find what they are looking for. There are
three snowparks, some cross-country ski runs and a sledge
run too. Tannenboden has rental shops and different
winter trekking paths if you prefer a walk in the snow to
some action on the slopes.QBergbahnen, Flumserberg,
Thermalbad & Spa Zurich by swiss-image.ch/Beat Hübscher
tel. (+41) 81 720 15 15, www.flumserberg.ch.
Day pass: 58/38/28Sfr, 3-7Sfr surcharge at weekends.
HAMMAM MÜNSTERGASSE
This hammam, a Turkish-style steam bath, is perfect if HOCH-YBRIG
you and your body need a break. In about two hours Accessible by car in an hour and by public transport in
you will progress through different rooms and clean 90 minutes (change train at Wädenswil and to a bus in
your body with steam, rub your skin with a peeling Einsiedeln), Hoch-Ybrig is one of the favourite day-trip ski
glove and purge yourself - luckily, you get to rest in destinations for Zurchers. Twelve ski and chair lifts take you
between the different steps. Finish off with an oil or up to almost 2,000 metres above sea level. There is a rental
foam massage or one of the other treatments available. shop at the top of the first cable car and a snowpark with
QF‑4, Blaufahnenstrasse 3, 8Helmhaus, tel. (+41) many kicks and rails - fun for snowboarders and skiers alike.
44 259 81 82, www.fitnesspark.ch. Open 10:00 - You can also simply go for a walk in the sun on a prepared
21:45, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:45, Last admission 2hours path at the top of the cable car.QWaagtalstrasse 127,
before closing time. 43Sfr, treatments cost extra. Unteriberg, tel. (+41) 55 414 60 60, www.hoch-ybrig.ch.
Day pass 53/48/30Sfr.
STADTBAD (HAMMAM & SAUNA)
Turkish-style steam baths, hammams, have become
very popular in recent years. This one in the cellars of
the Volkshaus boasts some arty concrete architecture.
But you come here to relax, right? In keeping with
oriental traditions there is a hot stone in the centre of
the open space to relax on - niches to wash and rub
your skin, a sauna, a footbath, and more are grouped
around it. There is also a relax area and a café. A
variety of massages and treatments is available.QC‑3,
Stauffacherstr. 60, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 44 241
04 27, www.stadtbadzuerich.ch. Open 11:00 - 23:00,
Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Wed women only. Sat 10:00 - 14:00
for kids. Admission hammam 48Sfr, sauna 32Sfr.

THERMALBAD & SPA ZÜRICH Skiing above the fog at Flumserberg. PD


Zurich’s only thermal bath is located in the buildings
that once were home to the brewery Hürlimann in STOOS
Zurich Enge using the spring water that was once sold Just 75 minutes from Zurich, the small village of Stoos
for drinking as Aqui. There are different pools as well as offers six lifts and stunning views over Lake Lucerne from
an outdoor area on the rooftop open all year, with a view the top of the Fronalpstock. Stoos is only accessible by
over the city and towards the Alps. Besides whirlpools, cable railway or aerial cable car. From the town of Schwyz
massage jets and resting zones there is a Irish-Roman take a bus to the Schlatti valley station and enjoy the short
Spa area with ten different stations like a peeling ride up to the village, where you’ll find several rental shops.
niche (extra fee applies).QC‑5, Brandschenkestrasse This small resort is great for families. If you don’t ski, take
150, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 205 96 50, a ride in a horse-drawn carriage (contact Suter Transporte,
www.thermalbad-zuerich.ch. Open daily 09:00 - tel. +41 79 455 66 24).QStoos, tel. (+41) 41 818 08 08,
22:00. Admission 34/16Sfr, children up to 6 years free. www.stoos.ch. Day pass (including feeder cable railway)
50/30Sfr.
56 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Queer Zurich
Zurich is undoubtedly Switzerland’s gay and lesbian the many bearded, beary guys you’ll find here.QC‑2,
capital and is in general quite queer-friendly. What better Kernstrasse 57, 8Helvetiaplatz, tel. (+41) 43 243 30
proof than the election of lesbian Corinne Mauch as mayor 43, www.maennerzone.ch. Open Fri & Sat 21:00 - 02:30.
in 2009? Zurich’s vibrant queer scene was one of the driving
forces in creating today’s club culture. Of course, some of
the queer venues are cool places to hang out even if you’re CLUBS
hetero. HEAVEN
The Heaven is a cosy queer club featuring music from
Zurich’s queer calendar has several major events, all in charts and house to more underground tastes like deep
spring or summer. For over ten years a Christopher Street house.QF‑3, Spitalgasse 5, 8Rudolf-Brun Brücke,
Day has been held in June. Called Zurich Pride Festival www.heavenclub.ch. Open usually Fri & Sat 23:00 - 06:00.
(June 9 & 10, 2017, www.zhpf.ch) today, this is a huge
event with parties, open-air bars and a colourful march RAGE
through the city. In spring the Pink Apple film festival Rage is a factory of a cruising club with all the works -
(www.pinkapple.ch) shows gay and lesbian films from darkrooms, slings, tubs and, of course, bars. Sector C is fetish
all over the world and awards a prize to a young director. pure, with a strict dresscode and changing themes. Only
But the queer scene is also very lively, big events aside. men are admitted. Get there by train to Schlieren station
Whether you’re looking for a gay-friendly bar to relax in, or with bus 31 to the stop Wagonsfabrik. Nightbuses on
gay and lesbian clubbing or venues of a more raunchy the weekend.QWagistrasse 13, Schlieren, www.rage.ch.
kind, you’ll find it in Zurich. Check out the websites or ask Thu 19:00 - 01:00, Fri 22:00 - 04:00, Sat 22:00 - 05:00, Sun
in some of the bars too. 17:00 - 01:00. 8-20Sfr. A­X

CAFÉS & BARS


BARFÜSSER
The Barfüsser has a long history as a gay haven, going back
to the repressive 1950s. Nowadays you wouldn’t necessarily
realise it’s a gay bar when walking in, as the crowd is very
mixed. The sofas in the lounge area make it easy to get
chatting to other guests, and if that gets your hunger up
move over to the sushi area for raw fish from (mainly)
sustainable sources. The long bar connects the two areas
and of course offers a range of drinks to fuel your evening.
Occasionally DJs.QF‑3, Spitalgasse 14, 8Rathaus, tel.
(+41) 44 251 40 64, www.barfuesser.ch. Open 11:30
- 23:30, Mon 11:30 - 22:30, Fri 11:30 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 Pink meets politics at the Pride Festival. Zurich Pride Festival
- 02:00, Sun 15:30 - 22:30. Sushi until 22:00, Fri & Sat
23:00. K

DANIEL H.
RESOURCES
Daniel H. is a low-key star in Zurich’s gay bar scene. With no GAYMEBOYS.COM ONLINE MAGAZINE
exuberant glamour and just the occasional party, Daniel H. This is a Zurich-centred gay online community
is very relaxed and heterofriendly. The interior is a tasteful with English-language content. There’s a chat area,
take on the 1970s in brown and orange - yes, this can be personals and a listing of up-coming events and info
an atrocious colour scheme, but here it works a treat. The on gay venues. It’s free, for some services you have to
Italian style sandwiches are also quite a treat. Good place register.Qwww.gaymeboys.com.
to pick up flyers on gay parties and events in Zurich, they
also sell tickets for some events.QC‑3, Müllerstrasse 51, LGBT+ HELPLINE
8Stauffacher, tel. (+41) 44 241 41 78, www.danielh.ch. LGBT+ Helpline offers telephone counselling and
Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 19:00 - 02:00. operates as a registration office for homophobic
Closed Mon & Sun. N­K violence. Counselling for non-emergency matters is
available Mon - Thu 19:00 - 21:00 (female counsellors
MÄNNERZONE available Mon - Wed). In case of homophobic violence
A gay sex shop with fetish articles during the week you can call 24hrs to report the incident, or report the
(Tue to Fri 12:00 - 19:00 and Sat 12:00 - 17:00), the incident online. Counselling is in German but many
Männerzone (men’s zone) turns into a very popular gay counsellors speak at least some English. Rates are
bar on Fridays and particularly Saturdays. It’s men only standard local rates. The number is (+41) 800 133 133.
and tends to be 30 and up, though there’s no official rule Qtel. (+41) 800 133 133, www.lgbt-helpline.ch.
on age. It’s strictly a bar, no dancing, which maybe fits
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 57
Hotels
Zurich is a business destination first and foremost -
and hotel rates reflect that. From Friday night to Monday SYMBOL KEY
morning, prices often drop sharply. Why not take
advantage of this and spend a weekend in one of the P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
many four- and five-star hotels in the city? Despite this,
accommodation in Zurich remains rather pricey and real T Child-friendly H Conference facilities
budget accommodation is rare. But nevertheless there is R Internet in room U Facilities for the disabled
something for any taste and almost any budget.
F Fitness centre L Parking on site
In Switzerland hotels are officially categorized with
K Restaurant 8 Nearest tram station
stars from one to five. The categorization is done by
hotelleriesuisse, the national hoteliers association. A hotel D Sauna C Swimming pool
can also receive the supplement ‘superior’, indicating
a higher level of service and quality. We list the hotels 6 Animal friendly W Wi-fi connection
according to their official classification in the following J City centre location
categories: Cream of the Crop*****, Upmarket****, Mid-
range*** and Budget (0 to **). Outside this classification
we list pensions - usually small and with less services than the hotel was built in over ten years of work. Some rooms
a hotel - and some of the hostels in town. Find more hotels have modern elements which contrast with the ancient
on www.zurich.inyourpocket.com. walls and beams. Others are furnished with antiques
and look more classical. Some rooms have a private roof
terrace with views over the old town towards the lake and
CREAM OF THE CROP the Alps. Naturally they all have the latest entertainment
ALDEN LUXURY SUITE HOTEL technology and bathrooms to dream of.QE‑3, Rennweg
The smallest boutique five-star hotel in Zurich, in a building 7, 8Rennweg, tel. (+41) 44 224 25 26, fax (+41) 44 224
from the late 19th century in the Enge district, lies within 24 24, www.widderhotel.ch. 49  rooms. P­J­H­A­
walking distance of the lake and the glamorous shopping R­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhhh
area around Bahnhofstrasse. Each room is one of a kind,
with a careful choice of modern and antique furniture and
art. Bathrooms are huge, with a jacuzzi-style bath tub and UPMARKET
a rain shower. Book one of the lofts (one has its own sauna) B2 BOUTIQUE HOTEL + SPA
and enjoy your own private terrace above the rooftops The B2 Boutique Hotel + Spa is located in the buildings of
of Zurich. The ground floor harbours a restaurant with the former Hürlimann brewery in Zurich’s Enge district. The
international cuisine and a bar. A very personal five-star former mash house is home to the standard rooms now,
experience.QD‑5, Splügenstrasse 2, 8Tunnelstrasse, while the two storied Hürlimann suites are situated in the
tel. (+41) 44 289 99 99, fax (+41) 44 289 99 98, former cold store building. The industrial past of the site
www.alden.ch. 22 rooms. P­J­R­6­KW ­ hhhhh surrounds you constantly here, not merely on the huge
photos of the old brewery hanging on the walls. They have
four different categories of rooms, all in a contemporary
style with wooden floors and in predominantly white
and light brown colours. The suites have a balcony - and
for extra extravagance, a bath tub right beside the bed.
QC‑5, Brandschenkestrasse 152, tel. (+41) 44 567 67
67, fax (+41) 44 567 67 68, www.b2boutiquehotels.com.
60 rooms. P­iH ­ ­A­6­U­K­C­W hhhh

CROWNE PLAZA
The Crowne Plaza is situated close to the Letzigrund
stadium 13 minutes (8 stops) from the city centre by tram.
The 365 rooms come in a mix of bright and light brown
hues, with either a queen-size or two twin-size beds,
The cutting-edge Widder Hotel in the old town. PD a shower or a bathtub and free tea and coffee making
facilities. Upgrade your room to a deluxe for more work
WIDDER space and a couch lounge. For lunch or dinner, the two in-
The fabulous Widder is situated in nine former residential house restaurants Relais des Arts and Letzileu tend to your
houses in the mediaeval old town, with the prestigious needs.QBadenerstrasse 420, 8Letzigrund, tel. (+41)
Bahnhofstrasse just around the corner. Each of the 49 rooms 44 404 44 44, fax (+41) 44 404 44 40, www.cpzurich.
is different in layout and atmosphere. Many have traces of ch. 365  rooms. P­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­B­K­W
historical paintings which were brought to new life when hhhh
58 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
ENGIMATT
Located in the residential area Enge, the Engimatt offers
peace and quiet just a few minutes away from the main
sights, as well as a large garden and an outdoor tennis
court. Rooms are classically decorated and all feature
amenities like a capsule coffee machine and ironing
equipment. Upgrade to a deluxe room for more space.
The Sihlcity shopping mall with its many restaurants and
entertainment opportunities is just around the corner
and the city centre is close by tram or on foot (15 min). If
you don’t feel like going out at all, the in-house restaurant
Orangerie serves good Swiss and French style food.QB‑6,
Engimattstrasse 14, 8Waffenplatzstrasse, tel. (+41) 44
284 16 16, fax (+41) 44 201 25 16, www.engimatt.ch. A spot of winter sun on the lake shore. Zurich Tourism (CM)
73 rooms. P­HA ­ ­R6 ­ ­U­L­K­W hhhh
KRONE UNTERSTRASS & TOWNHOUSE
GLÄRNISCHHOF Just three stops by tram from the main train station and
In the financial district and just off Bahnhofstrasse, the the city centre, this four-star hotel is conveniently located
Glärnischhof has classically decorated standard rooms with for leisure and business stays. The Langstrasse district with
blue or grey carpets, a desk and a red leather armchair. In the popular bars and restaurants is in walking distance. The
comfort category you get more space and a toilet separated rooms are bright and modern and rates are moderate. The
from the bathroom. Guests have free entrance to the Luxor Townhouse is located in the courtyard with studios and junior
Fitness Centre in the same building which includes a sauna, suites with huge windows, all equipped with a kitchenette,
a solarium and a whirlpool. On the weekends you can book a coffee machine and an iron - perfect for longer stays, as it
the junior suites as specially decorated Loverooms for a combines the advantages of an apartment with the services
romantic weekend with your beloved. On the ground floor of a hotel. There is a Mediterranean restaurant and a separate
the Restaurant Le Poisson serves fish specialities.QE‑4, bar.QN‑6, Schaffhauserstrasse 1, 8Kronenstrasse, tel.
Claridenstrasse 30, 8Paradeplatz, tel. (+41) 44 286 22 (+41) 44 360 56 56, fax (+41) 44 360 56 00, www.hotel
22, fax (+41) 44 286 22 86, www.hotelglaernischhof.ch. -krone.ch. 76 rooms. P­H­A­6­U­L­K­W hhhh
62 rooms. P­J­HA ­ ­R­6­F­L­K­W hhhh
LEONARDO BOUTIQUE HOTEL RIGIHOF
GREULICH Located in the university district, the modern rooms of
The Greulich offers spacious rooms and suites in the main the 4-star Rigihof all have a hardwood floor, a desk, a safe
building or loft-like ones in the two modernistic concrete and a kettle for making tea and coffee. There are both
constructions in the courtyard. The superior rooms have an twin and double beds available. The superior rooms are
additional living area. 150 birch trees adorn the courtyard more spacious than the standards and have a balcony,
like a land-art sculpture and make the garden of this hotel so you can catch some afternoon and evening sun. As
a quite inspiring place. Located close to Langstrasse district, the tram stops right at the front door the city centre is
it’s great for exploring urban Zurich. The Greulich restaurant only minutes away. The tram also connects directly to the
is also worth a mention.QB‑2, Herman-Greulich-Strasse airport. There is a restaurant on the ground floor. Note
56, 8Bäckeranlage, tel. (+41) 43 243 42 43, fax (+41) there is no air-conditioning.QG‑1, Universitätstrasse 101,
43 243 42 00, www.greulich.ch. 28 rooms. H­AR ­ ­6­ 8Winkelriedstrasse, tel. (+41) 44 360 12 00, fax (+41)
U­L­K­X­W hhhh 44 360 12 07, www.leonardo-hotels.com. 76  rooms.
H­A­6­U­L­B­K­W hhhh
HOLIDAY INN ZURICH MESSE
The Holiday Inn opened in 2009 and lies just opposite PALAIS KRAFT
Zurich‘s biggest indoor concert and sports venue The Palais Kraft is one of the more unusual places to stay
Hallenstadion and the exhibition grounds in Zurich Nord. in Zurich. Located on Zürichberg, Zurich’s rather exclusive
A good choice for your business trip. The city centre is residential area, this luxurious private residence offers large
just 15 minutes away by tram. The rooms all feature dark studio rooms with high ceilings for long and short term stays
parquet, Wi-fi, a kettle for free instant coffee and tea, a safe as well as serviced apartments with 1 to 3 bedrooms. All studio
and a TV. Of course one wall is painted in the Holiday Inn‘s rooms have wooden floors, a terrace, a flat-screen TV and
trademark bright green. If you prefer more space, a real a kitchenette with a microwave and fridge. With just a small
coffee machine and a minibar, ask for an executive room. number of rooms and apartments, the Kraft is able to provide
There is a gym, a bar and a restaurant on the ground floor, a private and personal atmosphere. The tram gets you to the
and room service.QO‑2, Wallisellenstrasse 48, 8Messe/ city centre in less than 15 minutes, the stop is just two minutes
Hallenstadion, tel. (+41) 44 316 11 00, fax (+41) 44 316 away. Note there is no air-conditioning.QH‑2, Kraftstrasse 33,
11 01, www.holidayinn.com/zurichmesse. 164  rooms. 8Toblerplatz, tel. (+41) 44 388 84 85, fax (+41) 44 383 23
P­H­A­R­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhh 48, www.palaiskraft.com. A­R­U­D­W
facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket December 2016 - January 2017 59
Hotels
this hotel just two minutes from the main train station
AIRPORT HOTELS complete.QE‑2, Bahnhofstr. 87, 8Bahnhofstrasse/
HB, tel. (+41) 44 227 77 00, fax (+41) 44 227 77 50,
ALLEGRA www.hotelstgotthard.ch. 138 rooms. P­J­H­A­R­
The Allegra is a good choice if you have an early- 6­L­B­K­D­W hhhh
morning flight - the free shuttle bus will make sure you
don’t miss it. Situated just next to the S-train station
Kloten, the centre of Zurich is also just a 15-minute MID-RANGE
train ride away. The rooms are quite spacious, have BRISTOL
parquet flooring, a kettle for tea and coffee, a desk The Bristol is just a 5-minute walk from the main train
and come in a colourful design in the style of Dutch station. That means all the city’s central sights are in walking
artist Piet Mondrian - even the linen matches the distance. The rooms here are modern and simple: they all
walls. There is ventilation but no air-conditioning. have a wooden floor, a flat-screen TV and come with either
QHamelirainstrasse 3, Kloten, tel. (+41) 44 804 44 a single, a grand lit or two single beds. There are also rooms
44, fax (+41) 44 804 41 41, www.hotel-allegra.ch. with three and four beds - ideal for families. Note there
132 rooms. H­A­R­6­U­F­L­K­W hhhh is no air-conditioning.QF‑2, Stampfenbachstrasse 34,
8Stampfenbachplatz, tel. (+41) 44 258 44 44, fax (+41)
44 258 44 00, www.hotelbristol.ch. 56  rooms. J­H­
SCHWEIZERHOF A­R­6­W hhh
This four-star superior establishment is a good choice
for those who come to Zurich to shop on famous
Bahnhofstrasse - it‘s located just opposite the main train
station where the shopping starts. Business travelers will
also enjoy the first-class service provided which includes
a butler who will knock on your door in the evening,
offering you chocolate, fruit and newspapers. The rooms
of the Schweizerhof are furnished in a very classic style and
feature electrically-adjustable beds.QE‑2, Bahnhofplatz
7, 8Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 44 218 88 88, fax
(+41) 44 218 81 81, www.hotelschweizerhof.com.
107 rooms. P­J­H­A­R­6­K­X­W hhhh

SORELL ZÜRICHBERG
This architectural jewel high above Zurich lies at the
edge of the forest and yet is just 15 minutes by tram Sparkling Marktgasse in medieval Niederdorf. Matthias Villiger
from the main railway station and the lake. The view
up here is thrilling, with the city, the lake and the crests COMFORT HOTEL ROYAL
of the Alps all visible from the generous veranda. This hotel offers affordable, rather small non-smoking
The hotel is a combination of two different parts, a rooms at a good three-star standard, only five minutes walk
splendid Jugendstil building and a spiral annex in away from the main train station and ETH / University. The
contemporary design by Zurich architects Burkhalter tram that stops in front of the entrance takes you directly
& Sumi. Rooms are modern and brightly coloured to the airport. The panorama rooms have huge windows
and all come with Nespresso coffee machines. The and offer a great view towards the Uetliberg, Zurich‘s own
in-house restaurant R21 offers French cuisine with a little mountain. Smoker‘s lounge.QF‑2, Leonhardstrasse
Swiss touch. No air-conditioning.QJ‑1, Orellistrasse 6, 8Haldenegg, tel. (+41) 44 266 59 59, fax (+41) 44
21, 8Zoo, tel. (+41) 44 268 35 35, fax (+41) 44 268 266 59 60, www.comfortinn.ch. 70 rooms. P­J­A­R­
35 45, www.zuerichberg.ch. 66  rooms. H­A ­6 ­ 6­X­W hhh
U­L ­B ­K ­W hhhh
CORONADO
ST. GOTTHARD The Coronado is a functional three-star hotel close to
From many of the rooms of this traditional family-run hotel University Irchel. The rooms all feature dark parquet
you get a view straight onto Bahnhofstrasse, Zurich’s most flooring, a desk and a mini-bar. Doubles either come with
famous shopping street. Perfect for watching the hustle two beds or one kingsize one. The tram stops just opposite
and bustle. The rooms’ decoration is modern with bright the hotel and takes you to the centre in around 12 minutes -
yellow and golden colours. All of them feature a kettle for or straight to the airport in 20. For a relaxing walk Irchel Park
coffee and tea. There is a sauna and a massage room for lies just opposite the street.QN‑4, Schaffhauserstrasse
your recreation. The in-house Hummer bar serves seafood 137, 8Milchbuck, tel. (+41) 44 360 26 26, fax (+41) 44
in a traditional, elegant atmosphere. The lobby restaurant 360 26 36, www.hotel-coronado.ch. 40 rooms. P­H­
and the Manzoni coffee bar with its outdoor seating make A­R­6­L­W hhh
60 Zurich In Your Pocket zurich.inyourpocket.com
Hotels
MONTANA
The Montana’s rooms come in two categories: comfort BUDGET HOTELS
and deluxe. The comfort rooms were renovated in 2006
and have parquet floors, coloured walls and shower cabins LIMMATHOF
giving them a modern touch, while the deluxe rooms with The Limmathof is centrally located at the entrance to
antique-style furniture have a French flair. Easy access to Niederdorf, close to the main train station and most of
both the old town and the Langstrasse nightlife district. No Zurich‘s sights. The rooms are plain and the furniture
air-conditioning.QD‑1, Konradstrasse 39, 8Sihlquai/ is a little long in the tooth - but all clean with nice
Hauptbahnhof, tel. (+41) 43 366 60 00, fax (+41) 43 366 wooden floors and soundproof windows. There is a
60 10, www.hotelmontana.ch. 74 rooms. J­A­6­U­ TV and a shower or a bathtub in every room. Not a
L­K­W hhh modern hotel, but quite cheap for its location.QF‑2,
Limmatquai 142, 8Central, tel. (+41) 44 267 60
40, fax (+41) 44 262 02 17, www.limmathof.com.
HOSTELS 55 rooms. J­A6 ­ ­K hh
YOUTH HOSTEL
This modern youth hostel has four- and six-bed rooms
with bunk beds and shared showers and toilets. All rooms PENSIONS
have a small vestibule where lockers and the washbasin ZUM GUTEN GLÜCK
are located - so latecomers don‘t wake up the rest. There Opened in 2008, this lovely pension offers basic rooms
are also private doubles and four-bed rooms with en-suite with shared showers and bathrooms and sixties and
bathrooms. 24 hours reception and cheap meals (20Sfr incl. seventies style furniture. Check-in is at the coffee bar on
soft drink). It‘s just a five-minute walk to the lake and 15 the ground floor. The next tram stop is close by and the
min by tram to the centre. On the weekends a night bus tram takes eight minutes to get to the main train station.
(N°12) stops right in front of the hostel all night long. Great Recently new shops and bars have opened in the area,
place to meet other travellers.QMutschellenstrasse 114, as a major road had been closed to transit traffic. Good
8Morgental, tel. (+41) 43 399 78 00, fax (+41) 43 399 choice if you are looking for cheap accommodation.QB‑3,
78 01, www.youthhostel.ch/zurich. 76  rooms. H­A­ Stationsstrasse 7, 8Kalkbreite, tel. (+41) 43 540 72 99,
U­K­W www.zumgutenglueck.ch. 10 rooms. A­K­W
@ VBZ

Welcome to Zurich
• Do you know which ticket is ideally suited to your travel needs on Zurich’s public
transport network?
We will get you on the culinary track: e.g. with the Apéro Tram.
• Do you need information on the quickest way to reach your destination?

For friendly, professional answers to all your questions about public transport in and
The Apéro Tram travels throughout the whole year: every Thursday at
around Zurich, speak to a specialist at one of the city‘s nine
5:30 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. Those who want to turn an evening into a party can
VBZ ticket offices.
make reservations at the phone number 0848 80 18 80. The Apéro Tram, by
the way, is only one of many culinary rides: www.vbz.ch/yummytram
www.vbz.ch/en/ticketoffices

facebook.com/ZurichInYourPocket
Inserat Pocket Guide 123 x 90 mm 2.indd 1 December 2016 - January
19.03.2015 15:05:172017 61
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