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A Himalayan Journey
By Rajesh Vaidyula
| Nov 30, 2016 | 13,734 views
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India is a country where both natural and spiritual worlds share a deep and primordial
connection. Here, the natural elements like air, fire, earth and water are revered as gods. The
most important natural deities are the rivers amongst which the most powerful is the river
Ganga. She is a water goddess who descended from the heavens to cleanse the humans of all
their sins. She has been a blessing to the hot and crowded plains of the northern India through
countless millennia, by creating and replenishing one of the most fertile soils on earth.
The great cycles of birth, death and rebirth endlessly play out all around her and flowing
through these natural and spiritual worlds is the Ganga – India’s river of Life. India has many
sacred rivers but it is the Ganga that lies at the very heart of the subcontinent which flew 2500
Kms to reach its delta on the shores of the Bay of Bengal making it the third largest river on
earth. Although, the Ganga starts life in a very different realm. Cold and imposing, in the high
peaks of the Himalayas, known as Dev Bhoomi – the land of the gods. The source of the Ganga
1 of 23 Tuesday
is a place of great significance. But where amongst these remote peaks 20 December
and glaciers does 2016 08:48 PM
India’s most venerated river really begin? I am Rajesh, and this is my pilgrimage to the source
of India’s most sacred river.
earth. Although, the Ganga starts life in a very different realm. Cold and imposing, in the high
peaks of the Himalayas, known as Dev Bhoomi – the land of the gods. The source of the Ganga
is a place of great significance. But where amongst these remote peaks and glaciers does
India’s most venerated river really begin? I am Rajesh, and this is my pilgrimage to the source
of India’s most sacred river.
Day 1: 18/09/2016 – Chennai to Uttarkashi – Sea Level to 1200 m
It was 2 am in the morning of 18th September 2016, and I woke up to the loud buzz of my
alarm which I did not want to snooze. I could barely get any sleep the night before due to
excitement and anxiousness about my journey ahead. My flight from Chennai to Delhi was at
4.15 am and the onward flight from Delhi to Dehradun was at 9.15 am. I could catch up on
sleep in the 2.5-hour flight to Delhi. Dehradun was my home for 2 years where I did my MBA so
felt nostalgic when I landed at the Jolly Grant airport after 5 years. My next destination was
Uttarkashi which is about 150 kms from Dehradun. The taxi that I booked was waiting for me at
the airport and we were on our way with no delay.
Rishikesh
2 of 23 Tuesday 20 December 2016 08:48 PM

The holy town of Rishikesh was en route to Uttarkashi. This is the place where the daughter of
the mountains Ganga, united with all its tributaries, attains the status of a mother. I decided to
visit the place to pay my respects to the river goddess. To stand on the Lakshman Jhula and
Rishikesh
The holy town of Rishikesh was en route to Uttarkashi. This is the place where the daughter of
the mountains Ganga, united with all its tributaries, attains the status of a mother. I decided to
visit the place to pay my respects to the river goddess. To stand on the Lakshman Jhula and
witness the Ganga flowing beneath you is a wonderful sight. The Lakshman Jhula is a 450 ft
long iron suspension bridge and built at a height of 70 ft from the river. This is believed to be
the place where Lakshman the brother of Lord Ram crossed the river after defeating the demon
king Ravana.
Lakshman Jhula at Rishikesh

Rishikesh
Also this is the place where the Ganga leaves the Shivalik hills and bursts out on to the plains of
northern India. After taking the blessings of Ganga maa I left from Rishikesh at around noon to
follow one of its main tributaries, the Bhagirathi, up north into the Shivalik hills. Around 50 kms
from Rishikesh I come across a sight which is as breathtaking as it is unsettling. The catchment
area for the Tehri dam is around 52 square kms and the dam is the tallest in India. Mountains
had to be broken, streams had to be diverted, people had to be displaced and forests had to be
cleared to construct such a huge structure. One can only imagine the environmental
consequences of locating such a huge dam in the fragile eco system of the Himalayan foothills.
Only time will tell if the dam will be able to withstand the quakes of the central Himalayan
seismic gap, a major geologic fault zone.
The Tehri Dam

The Tehri Dam
Accepting the fact that this is a necessary evil, I continued my journey towards Uttarkashi
stopping only for lunch at the town of Chamba. We reached Uttarkashi around 6 in the evening
where my guide, Mr. Jai Singh was waiting to receive me. Uttarkashi is a town on the banks of
the Bhagirathi river at an elevation of about 1200 m above sea level. This town is also home to
the Nehru Institute of Mountaineering which is considered to be the pioneer institute for
mountain climbing in India. It’s worthwhile to note that the youngest woman from India to scale
the mount Everest is an alumnus of this institution. After discussing the plans for the next day
with Jai over dinner I checked into the hotel which he had booked for me for the night. Tired
and exhausted it didn’t take much time for me to fall asleep.
Uttarkashi
Day 2: 19/09/2016 – Uttarkashi to Gangotri – 1200 m to 3000 m
It was a pleasant morning at Uttarkashi with bright sunshine glistening over the Bhagirathi river.
5 of 23 Tuesday
My hotel was on the banks of the river with a balcony overlooking the 20could
river. One December
just sit 2016 08:48 PM
there all day and watch the mighty Bhagirathi carve its way out of the Shivalik hills. But I did
not have more than a few minutes to enjoy it as Jai was waiting for me to execute the well laid
It was a pleasant morning at Uttarkashi with bright sunshine glistening over the Bhagirathi river.
My hotel was on the banks of the river with a balcony overlooking the river. One could just sit
there all day and watch the mighty Bhagirathi carve its way out of the Shivalik hills. But I did
not have more than a few minutes to enjoy it as Jai was waiting for me to execute the well laid
plans for the day. I checked out from the hotel at 10 am and entered the busy marketplace of
the town. We were looking for one particular shop where we had to purchase a long list of
groceries that we needed for the trek that included everything from rice to dals, spices to
condiments, breads, chocolates and cakes. I thought this was overkill for just five days but later
did I realize how wrong I was when these very things were keeping us alive in a rather harsh
environment.
The shopkeeper was an old man who was an acquaintance of Jai was quite intrigued at the fact
that I was the only person who would be doing the trek. After paying the bill the shopkeeper
wished me luck and said something that boosted my spirits even more – “Akele aaye ho bete,
jab upar tak jaaoge to yaad rakhna ki tere har kadam pe Ganga tumhari saath degi” – which
means “You have come alone son, but when you reach the top just remember that in every step
you take, Ganga will be with you”. I thanked the shopkeeper for his blessings and kind words
and we left from Uttarkashi in our taxi.
Before hitting the road towards Gangotri, we had to pick up our cook Mr. Pardeep who was
waiting with our tents and cooking items. Neatly packed, it took the driver only a few minutes
to load them on top of the taxi. Before starting, the driver chanted ‘Har Har Mahadev’ which Jai
and Pardeep repeated loudly in unison by thumping their fists in the air. To me it sounded more
like a war cry and I felt as if we were getting ready for a battle rather than a trek.
Harsil
We stopped for lunch at the town of Harsil. This hamlet is known for its natural beauty and
delicious apples. It is said that Harshil got its name because the rivers Bhagirathi and the
Jalandhari once had an argument about which was more important. Lord Vishnu, also known as
Hari, was asked to intervene. He turned himself into a great stone, a shila, and absorbed their
anger. And even today, after Hari-shila (or Harshil), the waters of the two rivers become a little
less turbulent.
6 of 23 Tuesdayafter
The deity of the goddess Ganga is brought down from the shrine at Gangotri 20 December
Diwali and 2016 08:48 PM
kept at ‘Mukhba’ village near Harsil. It remains there throughout the winter when Gangotri is
snowbound and inaccessible. We reached Gangotri around 4:30 pm and it was much colder than
I imagined. Jai and Pradeep left me alone to visit the forest office to obtain permission to enter
less turbulent.
The deity of the goddess Ganga is brought down from the shrine at Gangotri after Diwali and
kept at ‘Mukhba’ village near Harsil. It remains there throughout the winter when Gangotri is
snowbound and inaccessible. We reached Gangotri around 4:30 pm and it was much colder than
I imagined. Jai and Pradeep left me alone to visit the forest office to obtain permission to enter
the Gangotri National Park and camp there for the next few days. I wandered around the
slightly deserted yet lively little town which is at an elevation of 3000m above sea level.
Ganga descends to earth.
This is the place where Hindus believe that the Ganga first descended on to the earth. Ganga is
a water goddess who flowed through the heavens. She is believed to be so pure that just a bath
in its holy waters would cleanse a man of all his sins. The legend says, that the king Bhagirath,
wanting to cleanse the ashes of his forefathers, did penance at Gangotri for 5,500 years.
Impressed by his penance the Ganga agrees to come to earth. But the Ganga, being a goddess
of abundance and sustenance was so powerful that her descent would have shattered the earth.
Bhagirath then prays to lord Shiva to slow down the descent of the enormous river. Lending
ears to his request, lord Shiva places himself between the falling river and the earth there by
7 of 23 Tuesday the
catching the Ganga in his matted locks, cushioning her arrival and channeling 20 flow
December
into a 2016 08:48 PM
thousand lesser streams. To honor the king’s effort, the river at Gangotri is named after him.
Bhagirath then prays to lord Shiva to slow down the descent of the enormous river. Lending
ears to his request, lord Shiva places himself between the falling river and the earth there by
catching the Ganga in his matted locks, cushioning her arrival and channeling the flow into a
thousand lesser streams. To honor the king’s effort, the river at Gangotri is named after him.
Ganga Temple at Gangotri
Surya Kunda
Surya Kunda
The spectacular waterfall at Suryakund where the river falls from a height of 60 ft, is a very
earthly reminder of this tumultuous descent. However, Gangotri is not the geographical origin of
the river. The river here is already wide and powerful, fed by one of the Himalaya’s largest
glaciers high above the valley.
The glacier which was right at the town of Gangotri until a few hundred years ago, receded 18
kms away due to rising temperatures. Determined to reach the origin far away I entered the
temple. It was time for the evening aarthi, a ritual that is performed each day from time
immemorial to honor the country’s river of life. We retired to our room at around 8.30 pm and I
went to sleep with the constant roar of the Bhagirathi gushing down and a number of thoughts
about an exciting and adventurous trek that lay ahead.
Day 3: 20/09/2016 – Gangotri to Chirbasa – 3000m to 3350m
I woke up at 6 am in the morning to get ready for the trek. The weather was cold and misty
with poor visibility not more than a few meters outside my room but the sound of Bhagirathi
roaring ferociously past the town was clearly audible. I took a luxurious hot water shower
thinking it would be five full days before my next shower.
The night stay at Gangotri was essential to acclimatize ourselves to the high altitudes and not
be a victim of high altitude sickness otherwise known as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) which
is common at altitudes higher than 2500 meters. The decreasing oxygen levels during rapid
ascent to higher altitudes results in AMS which can be avoided by gradual ascent. The rule of
thumb is not to climb more than 300 meters a day although you may climb up to 500 meters
during the day and come back down to 300 m to camp for the night. Unless your body is well
acclimatized, it becomes very difficult to even walk at such high altitudes. Most of the trekkers
who get affected with AMS might not even realize that they have been affected until the
symptoms get worse and are forced to stop the trek and come down to lower altitudes. The stay
at Gangotri provided me with the right amount of acclimatization needed for this trek.
The porters arrived at 6.45 AM and packed our tents and other belongings. A porter can carry
up to 25 kgs and given the amount of stuff we had we hired two porters, Mr. Bhim and Mr.
Bahadur, who are both from Nepal. They looked young and in good shape and I was later
astonished to know that Bhim was 57 Bahadur was in his late 40s. our trek would have been
impossible without these two wonderful people who truly deserve the entire credit.
Our trek started at around 7:15 AM after taking the blessings from the river goddess and
breakfast at a local outlet. A few meters from where the trek begins at the temple, we had to
take 150 to 200 stairs to reach the pathway that leads to the Gangotri National park. The first
day trek to the campsite was 9 kilometers and I was out of breath just when I was done with
the stairs to the pathway.
Jai crudely reminded me by saying “The stairs are only a few and at 3000m. To reach your goal,
you will have to climb a steep mountain for 300m at an altitude of 4000m, and that too after
crossing a glacier”. Gathering my breath, I reassured myself that this was not going to be easy
but definitely worthwhile and with the same thought, set out on the path that leads to the camp
site.
The trail goes towards the left side into the forest and at approximately 2 kilometers from the
start, we reached the forest post where our permits were checked. This is where I got a much
but definitely worthwhile and with the same thought, set out on the path that leads to the camp
site.
The trail goes towards the left side into the forest and at approximately 2 kilometers from the
start, we reached the forest post where our permits were checked. This is where I got a much
needed break and rest for 5 mins before starting again. Jai suggested that we walk for an hour
and rest for 15 mins so as to maximize the distance covered.
Sudarshan Parbat
A few meters from the check post, we were greeted by the absolutely stunning Sudarshan
Parbat (6500m) in the background. The trail was on the left side of the mountain ridge with the
Bhagirathi flowing on the right. The path was mostly even with gradual inclines.
30 minutes into the trek from the check post I came across a stream gushing below a makeshift
bridge after which the valley opened up to several snowcapped peaks on the right side. It was a
very narrow path with wonderful peaks on either sides and the Bhagirathi at the bottom.
Two hours into the trek, I was getting exhausted rapidly with more frequent and longer breaks.
After almost 4 hours of trekking, I came across a stream where a bridge was washed away
during the monsoon in July. We had to climb down the ridge over the boulders to reach a point
where the stream was less wide and a makeshift bridge was made with wooden logs tied
together.
After crossing the bridge and climbing up the boulders for another 10 minutes, we reached the
humble abode of the Chir trees, Chirbasa in 4 and a half hours by 11:30 AM.

Chirbasa
Chirbasa

Chirbasa
Jai suggested we take some rest and proceed to Bhojbasa the same day. I woke up after an
hour’s sleep at the dhaba only to find my legs as numb as the boulders that we crossed. That’s
when it hit me that this was the first time ever I exercised my body to this extent. It was clear
that the fitness regime I followed in preparation for the trek was no way sufficient for the effort
that I had to put in now.
I walked around for few minutes just to relax my muscles as lunch was being served at the
dhaba. We started to Bhojbasa at 2 PM and not more than 30 minutes later, I started feeling
dizzy and disoriented. I had a mild headache, which along with the cramps in my legs made it
very difficult to proceed any further. I suspected it was due to AMS and told Jai about my
symptoms. He immediately suggested going back to Chirbasa and camping there for the night.
We set up our tents right next to the forest check post at Chirbasa. There were two officers at
the post whom we invited over for dinner at our camping tents. It’s not very often that people
camp here so they were quite happy to keep us company. They talked about their jobs which
evidently they were not happy about. Both looked quite young and were a little disappointed
that they were posted at a remote location quite far from the civilization. On the other hand, I
was feeling quite jealous about their job site given my obsession with mountains and rivers.
Well, grass is always greener on the other side.
Our conversations moved towards their experiences and they started talking about a particular
unsettling incident that occurred in June this year. They spoke about two trekkers who died on
the same day due to AMS. As one of the officer started explaining how it happened, the other
noticed the shock in my face and asked him to stop. Out of curiosity I requested them to
continue. The more they spoke about it the more anxious I got. When they finally finished, I
had a chill down my spine. I wished I had never heard about it.
They thanked us for the meal and left. I retired to my tent and slipped into my sleeping bag.
Alone in the tent with only the sound of a river gushing down and the thoughts of two men who
lost their lives, sleeping was not easy and the night ended up being one of the longest of my
12 of 23 life. Tuesday 20 December 2016 08:48 PM

Alone in the tent with only the sound of a river gushing down and the thoughts of two men who
lost their lives, sleeping was not easy and the night ended up being one of the longest of my
life.
Bhojbasa
Day 4: 21/09/2016 – Chirbasa to Bhojbasa – 3350 m to 3800 m
I woke up to the chirping birds and swaying tent due to a steady breeze. It was 7.30 am and
our cook already made breakfast. Jai and the porters were all packed and ready for the day’s
journey. I asked Jai if I can find a restroom nearby. He just waved his hands and said
everywhere here is a restroom and its far more hygienic than closed doors. He passed me a
bottle of water and said, “go anywhere you want to”.
You never truly become a part of nature unless you do things naturally. Never did I feel so close
to nature than performing my morning ablutions out in the open between green bushes and on
a river bank.
It was around 9 AM when we packed everything and started our journey. The two officers
wished me luck and warned me twice to come down if I noticed even the slightest symptom of
AMS. Heeding their advice and thanking them for their wishes, we left from Chirbasa.
Our hike to Bhujbasa was for 5 kms along the left trail of the mountains. It was a relatively easy
hike with very gradual ascent and few kilometers of rocky paths. A few meters into the trail, you
get to see the amazing Bhagirathi peaks, I, II and III standing tall at 6856m, 6512m and
6454m respectively.

Bhagirathi Mountain Peaks
They look so alike that they are also called the Bhagirathi sisters. The path to Bhujbasa is
landslide prone and every 15 to 20 minutes you encounter a path covered with boulders that
needs to be traversed by climbing up and down the ridges.
I was moving quite faster than the previous day and did not rest for at least an hour when we
came across a stream with no bridge to cross. We had to climb up a 75-meter-high ridge to
cross the stream where it was narrow. Climbing up was only a test of endurance but climbing
down was a real test of agility. With loose rocks and sand, it was very difficult to climb down.
I had no experience whatsoever and not even the slightest idea of how to get down, I was
literally planting my every step on the ground before taking another. It took me more than 5
minutes to climb down the 50-meter-high ridge. When done, I rested for 15 minutes nibbling a
chocolate bar when Jai told me that the descent from Tapovan tomorrow would be much steeper
with more slippery rocks.
It was a short walk from here to Bhujbasa and I was quite confident that I will be able to make
it without any more breaks. Just before the camp site, there is a vantage point from where the
Gangotri glacier can be seen with the Bhagirathi peaks in the background. It was an amazing
sight.

The sun was shining bright when we made it to Bhujbasa in less than 2 hours. The camping site
right on the banks of Bhagirathi river was wonderful. There is also a government guest house at
Bhujbasa where you can camp for the night in case you did not carry any tents. We set up our
tent a little further from this guest house.
The clouds which were covering the majestic Shivling peak (6543m), slowly cleared up letting
us catch a glimpse of the peak for the first time which I was very much looking forward to see.
Shivling Mountain Peak
Around lunch time a group of clouds slowly started rolling in from the Bhagirathi peaks towards
the Gangotri glacier and finally to the right towards the Shivling peak. It was dark and chilly at
around 3 PM due to the cloud cover, which was now above the Bhujbasa valley. My excitement
began to fade around 4 when it was completely dark and covered with clouds that were ready to
burst anytime. It was very chilly outside and even with 3 layers of warm clothes, I did not feel
warm enough.
We retreated into our tents hoping the weather to get clear soon. Much to our disappointment,
it started raining around 6 in the evening. Although it was not a heavy downpour, a steady
shower continued for the rest of the evening. I was sitting in the kitchen tent with my gloomy
15 of 23 face when our porter Bhim said not to worry and the rapid change inTuesday
weather at
20high altitudes 2016 08:48 PM
December
is quite common.
He was quite sure that there would be clear skies by next morning. I was worried that if it
it started raining around 6 in the evening. Although it was not a heavy downpour, a steady
shower continued for the rest of the evening. I was sitting in the kitchen tent with my gloomy
face when our porter Bhim said not to worry and the rapid change in weather at high altitudes
is quite common.
He was quite sure that there would be clear skies by next morning. I was worried that if it
rained any heavier or longer, the path would become slippery making our journey ahead more
difficult. A hot supper lifted my spirits and I slipped into my sleeping bag hoping for a wonderful
day tomorrow. I went to sleep with the sound of the rhythmic pounding of rain drops on my tent
which I was quite sure continued for a long time.
Day 5: 22/09/2016 –Bhujbasa – Gaumukh – Tapovan – Bhujbasa –

3800m – 4000m – 4300m – 3800m
I woke up at 6.30 am with the excitement of a kindergartner’s last day of school before summer
break. The previous night’s cold climate continued in the morning and was gloomy although
there was no rain. Bhim winked at me and asked me to get ready for a pleasant day. I was
quite determined to continue the journey even if it rained.
Jai suggested to not carry any tents or groceries with us as we planned to climb up and down
on the same day. He said if at all I got tired, we could stay at the Mauni Baba’s ashram for the
night and come back the next day which made perfect sense given the chances of rain and
returning midway.
As we were finishing our breakfast Bhim grinned looking towards the sky and pointing out at the
clouds that were moving away from us. It was 8 am when Jai and I packed only the essentials
and left for the trek. Our first destination was Gaumukh (literal translation cow’s mouth), the
snout of the Gangotri glacier.
The trail to Gaumukh is 4 kms long with a gradual incline over a rocky path. the clouds cleared
steadily 20 minutes into the trek enabling us to see the Shivling peak on the right. After another
30 minutes, there was a rock face that we crossed to an unseen view of Gaumukh. The weather
was getting much better with each step we took towards the glacier.

It took us 90 minutes to reach the small temple of Lord Shiva at Gaumukh at which time we
had clear skies and were proud to make it without any breaks. As per legend this place was the
origin of the river Ganga. The snout of the glacier got its name as it resembled a cow’s mouth,
may be a few hundred years ago, when the glacier spanned across the town of Gangotri,
although now it is nowhere close in resemblance to a cow’s mouth.
A milky stream flowed out of what looked more like a slit at the bottom of the glacier covered
with mud and rocks. This place marks a very important landmark in the spiritual world of India,
although it is faith rather than geography that defines the origin at Gaumukh.

There was more flowing water high above the glacier in the meadows of Tapovan which is our
destination. The journey to Tapovan involves crossing the Gangotri glacier from its right side
and climbing up a 300m rock face. The climb to the top of the glacier is boulder moraine and is
prone to frequent landslides.

Jai asked me not to stop anywhere till we reach the vantage point 500 m away from Gaumukh.
He sounded quite serious when he said that so I followed his every footstep trying to match his
speed. Even though the climb was not too steep, crossing the boulders without any breaks
along with a low supply of oxygen proved to be difficult. Somehow, I managed to reach the top
of the glacier in 15 minutes to a stunning view of the snout from this point.
Jai pointed out at the people climbing the rock face to Tapovan who literally looked like ants
across the glacier. It was definitely a terrifying sight and Jai later told me that most trekkers
would return from this point frightened by the dangerous steep path ahead. I rested here for 15
minutes and topped my energy levels with a chocolate bar and half a bottle of water before
starting again.
Akash Ganga at Tapovan
We were short on water and our next source was Akash Ganga which was midway to Tapovan. I
had the daunting task of crossing an entire glacier and climbing halfway to Tapovan with just
500ml of water.
We started to climb the glacial moraine to the right which was a combination of hard ice and
19 of 23 Tuesday
boulders and slippery path at places due to the melting glacier. We had to cross20 December
crevices at 2016 08:48 PM
regular intervals where one could see the fragmentation of the glacier and debris from the rock
fall over years. There are cairns marking the route through the glacier which are difficult to spot
We started to climb the glacial moraine to the right which was a combination of hard ice and
boulders and slippery path at places due to the melting glacier. We had to cross crevices at
regular intervals where one could see the fragmentation of the glacier and debris from the rock
fall over years. There are cairns marking the route through the glacier which are difficult to spot
as the glacial basin is always shifting. It is highly advisable to bring a guide to this place else
you are definite to get lost in this icy labyrinth.
It took us one and a half hour to cross the glacier when we were at the base of the almost
vertical rock face, the final ascent to climb to reach Tapovan. Jai said that the climb generally
takes 30 minutes which is steep for 300m over loose gravel and rocks, at an altitude of 4000m
above sea level. We sat pondering at the base for 15 minutes and when I looked back to the
glacier I had no clue about the path that we just came through.
We started our ascent and I was finding it very difficult to get a strong hold for each and every
footstep. My hiking stick was of no help either, as there was no defined pathway. I gave my
walking stick to Jai and literally started crab walking up the mountain with both my arms and
legs which helped me with the balance over the incline. I continued crab walking till we reached
the halfway point where a stream called “Akash Ganga” flows down from the rocks. The name
literally means water from the sky or heavens. We rested at the stream for 10 minutes and
filled our bottles with the “water from the sky”. The view from this point was breathtaking and
looking down, I could not believe how high we climbed.
The climb from here was less steep with something in resemblance to a path. I took my hiking
stick back from Jai and continued the climb. It was 1.10 pm when I took my final step to reach
a vast expanse of land and reached Tapovan. I made it to the top in 50 minutes!
I just sat there at the edge trying to comprehend my long struggle to get to this point which
was not only about physical fitness but also mental strength. I believe Jai could understand the
overwhelming emotions going through my mind as he let me be there for at least 30 minutes
when I stood up and thanked him for bringing me safe thus far. He smiled and said “It is not
over yet. We still have to get down and cross the glacier again”.
The word Tapovan literally means forest for spiritual penance. Located at the base of the
majestic Shivling peak, it is a vast expanse of meadows, streams and flowering plants. You can
get amazingly splendid views of Shivling peak, Bhagirathi sisters and Mt. Meru from this place.
If the source of a river is the point farthest from the ocean, then it is here, in the meadows of
Tapovan, that the spiritual and the geographical origins of the Ganga finally come together.
Surrounded and protected by the mountain gods, nowhere can be more fitting as the birthplace
of India’s holiest river.

Mauni Baba’s Ashram at Tapovan
A small stream flows from the melting ice of the Shivling peak to serve as a reminder that the
mighty Ganga still flows out of the matted locks of Lord Shiva. We then headed straight to the
Mauni Baba’s ashram where he has been living for 8 years.
Mauni baba came to Tapovan when he was 22 years old and has not left this place ever since.
He stays here even through the harsh winters with freezing cold and over 6 feet of snow.
Everyone is welcome at his ashram for lunch, dinner or a night’s stay without a fixed charge but
graciously accepts donations. He is not very talkative as in someone who has been alone for
quite a long time. He served us dal and rice which we ate to our heart’s content, thanked him
and hung around for a while.
Mauni Baba at Tapovan
It was the most silent place that I had ever been to and Jai asked me if I wish to spend the
night at Tapovan about which I had no idea. I was very exhausted to climb down and cross the
glacier but I was concerned more about AMS if I stayed the night at Tapovan. I was having a
mild headache and remembering the advice of the forest officers, decided to head down the
same day.
It was the most silent place that I had ever been to and Jai asked me if I wish to spend the
night at Tapovan about which I had no idea. I was very exhausted to climb down and cross the
glacier but I was concerned more about AMS if I stayed the night at Tapovan. I was having a
mild headache and remembering the advice of the forest officers, decided to head down the
same day.
I told Jai that I may not be able to climb down at his pace for which he said, “you have made it
this far and its descent from here so don’t worry, you will do fine”. We left Mauni Baba’s ashram
at 2.30 pm and started our descent to Bhojbasa which as mentioned earlier was a test of agility.
You have to be very light on your feet to hop around on the rocks and. It was a 300 m fall over
boulders in case you slip.
It wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be. I took it slow the first few meters but started
moving down quicker after getting more used to the terrain. It took us just 25 minutes to get
down to the base. As we started to cross the glacier it was getting dark due to the clouds
making their way from behind the Bhagirathi peaks. Halfway through, it started slightly drizzling
and Jai urged me to push myself harder as it would become very difficult to cross the glacier
when it’s raining.
Somehow, we made it to the vantage point at the end of the glacier in an hour when it was still
drizzling. This is when I breathed a sigh of relief as it was all a relatively easy descent and even
if it rained we had a clear defined path ahead of us. One last look at the cow’s mouth and I was
on my way down to Bhojbasa from Gaumukh. It started raining on the way when we had at
least an hour’s trek left to reach Bhojbasa. We had our raincoats on and trekked in the rain until
our campsite at 6:15 in the evening.
Our cook and porters who were anxiously waiting for us at the tents were quite relieved to see
us come down the hill towards the camp site. I was welcomed with much appreciation from
them as it was the first time that they had seen someone go up and come back down on the
same day.
It definitely was the biggest achievement of my life and the first time ever that I felt I earned
my meal. It was still raining when we went into our tents to sleep and my body was entirely
exhausted from the trek but my mind was at its active best. Alone and dark, I had the best
sleep in years listening to the drops of rain falling on my tent and the constant gushing sound
of a sacred river.
Day 6/7: 23-24/09/2016 –Bhujbasa – Gangotri – Uttarkashi –

Chennai: 3800 m – 3000 m – 1220 m – Sea Level
It was a leisure walk from Bhojbasa to Gangotri which we made it in 4 hours. En route, I shared
my adventures with the forest officers at Chirbasa and they were quite happy to hear that I
made it in a single day. Upon reaching the temple town, I directly went to the temple to offer
my prayers and gratitude to the water goddess and the mountain gods for providing me a safe
passage to their source.
Our ride to Uttarkashi was ready and I felt this long ride was more tiring than the trek itself. I
thanked Jai, Pardeep, Bhim and Bahadur for helping me along on a wonderful trek and bid adieu
before checking into my room for the night.
The next day, I drove to Dehradun and took a flight back to Chennai. Finally, I arrived at sea
level. It’s not very often that you climb up to 4300 m, but I was quite relieved to look at the sea
22 of 23 after almost a week of high altitudes. Tuesday 20 December 2016 08:48 PM
Only after parting ways with the river did I understand what the old shopkeeper really meant.
The next day, I drove to Dehradun and took a flight back to Chennai. Finally, I arrived at sea
level. It’s not very often that you climb up to 4300 m, but I was quite relieved to look at the sea
after almost a week of high altitudes.
Only after parting ways with the river did I understand what the old shopkeeper really meant.
It was the Ganga, which kept me company throughout the trek by flowing beside me.
It was the Ganga, that helped me along by quenching my thirst with its ever flowing streams
from the slopes of the mountains.
It was the Ganga, that put me to sleep each night with a lullaby of its own.
And it was the Ganga – India’s river of life, that helped me find solace in an isolated meadow,
among mountain gods, high above in the Himalayas.

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Day 1: 18/09/2016 – Chennai to Uttarkashi – Sea Level to 1200 m

2 of 23 Tuesday 20 December 2016 08:48 PM

Lakshman Jhula at Rishikesh

3 of 23 Tuesday 20 December 2016 08:48 PM

The Tehri Dam

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The Tehri Dam

Day 2: 19/09/2016 – Uttarkashi to Gangotri – 1200 m to 3000 m

Ganga descends to earth.

Ganga Temple at Gangotri

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Day 3: 20/09/2016 – Gangotri to Chirbasa – 3000m to 3350m

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12 of 23 life. Tuesday 20 December 2016 08:48 PM

Day 4: 21/09/2016 – Chirbasa to Bhojbasa – 3350 m to 3800 m

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Bhagirathi Mountain Peaks

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Shivling Mountain Peak

Day 5: 22/09/2016 –Bhujbasa – Gaumukh – Tapovan – Bhujbasa –

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Akash Ganga at Tapovan

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Mauni Baba’s Ashram at Tapovan

Mauni Baba at Tapovan

Day 6/7: 23-24/09/2016 –Bhujbasa – Gangotri – Uttarkashi –

23 of 23 Tuesday 20 December 2016 08:48 PM

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