DIY

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HOW TO TILE A BATHROOM

Don’t just
DO IT YOURSELF
DO IT WITH BEAUMONTS!
 DIY
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PREPARE & CLEAN A BATHROOM FOR TILING

tip: Before you start tiling, ensure you’ve picked your bathroomware and chosen where it will
go in your bathroom. Changing your plumbing fixtures becomes much more difficult after you
start tiling!

Any tiling job will only be as good as the surface it’s laid on. It’s important to ensure that, no matter what surface
you’re tiling on, that the surface is sound, level and clean of dust and debris.

Most floor surfaces are concrete or timber, while plasterboard is common for walls.

Concrete: For best results, the concrete must be allowed to cure for a minimum 28 days before it is tiled over. Steel
trowelled concrete must be mechanically roughened (and then thoroughly washed) prior to tiling or there will not be
enough adhesion.

All concrete release agents and curing compounds must be removed by mechanical means. For cracks larger than
1.5mm consult your local suppliers.

Timber flooring: Due to the expansion and contraction of the timber, it is never recommended to adhere ceramic
tiles directly onto timber floors. Untreated floors should be primed and allowed to dry prior to tiling.

Plasterboard: Plasterboard is a very common indoor wall surface, but is not suitable for tiling without waterproofing.

Tiling over plasterboard involves adhering tiles to a paper surface, and although this will present little problem in
dry areas, if the wallboard is subject to moisture, it may deteriorate causing failure. Plasterboard should be water-
proofed before tiling.

Information on other types of wall and floor surfaces can be found on our Tiling Wall and Floor Surfaces page.

We recommend “dry laying” your tiles without adhesive prior to tiling. A test run will help you figure out your tile
placement (especially tiles with patterns or details such as marbling) without laying them permanently. It’s also an
excellent way to double check that you have the right amount of tiles and whether any tiles need cutting.

WATERPROOF A BATHROOM FOR TILING

When tiling a wet area like a bathroom, waterproofing before you tile is absolutely essential. The good news is that
with the seven steps on the next page, a good waterproofing kit like the ABA Barrierflex Waterproofing Kit and a bit
of carefulness and thoroughness, waterproofing is actually very easy.
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WATERPROOF A BATHROOM FOR TILING

When tiling a wet area like a bathroom, waterproofing

before you tile is absolutely essential. The good news is
that with the seven steps on the next page, a good wa-
terproofing kit like the ABA Barrierflex Waterproofing Kit
and a bit of carefulness and thoroughness, waterproofing
is actually very easy.

Step 1

Having cleaned the wall and floor area thoroughly to

remove all the dirt and dust, apply a liberal coating of
primer using a brush.

Step 2

You will also receive a tube of Neutral Core Silicone Seal-

er included in your Waterproofing Kit. Run a generous
bead along all internal corners (wall and floor). Finish off
the bead using your finger.

Note: Do not use any other kind of silicone.

Step 3

Using an old paint brush, apply a liberal coat of the

pre-mixed membrane to the internal corners. Paint it on
either side of the corner, approximately 150mm wide.

Step 4

Place a length of reinforcing mat (also included in your

Waterproofing Kit) to each of the corner joins. Then
smooth down the mat to bed it down into the wet mem-
brane. Wherever the mat joins, ensure that it overlaps by
at least 100mm.
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WATERPROOF A BATHROOM FOR TILING

Step 5

Brush a second coat of premixed membrane over the

cloth and around the taps and any other penetrations
through the wall or floor.

Once all the corners are done, use a paint roller to cover
the entire wall and floor. We always insist that the total
wet area is waterproofed.

Step 6

After the first coat of membrane is complete and dry,

apply a second coat. A good tip is to roll the first coat all
in one direction and roll the second coat at 90 degrees (a
right angle) to the first.

Step 7

Allow the membrane to dry for 24 hours before proceed-

ing with tiling.

check it out:
87650 contains:
ABA Barrierflex Barrierflex liquid
Waterproofing Kit Barrierflex powder
Primer
Silicone sealer
Reinforcing mat
Gloves & directions
 DIY
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HOW TO CUT BATHROOM TILES

It’s almost inevitable that some of your tiles will have to be cut to fit your wall or floor, and there will probably be
some that have to be cut into a different shape as well as size.

Cutting tiles is not difficult with access to decent equipment and with a little practice. If you’re cutting your own tiles
(and especially if you’re doing this for the very first time), it’s a good idea to allow a couple of extra tiles for practice
or in case of any slight mishaps that may happen.

In this fact sheet we show you how to make a straight cut, cut a shape, cut small shapes, and to cut away small
pieces of tile.

When it comes to cutting tiles, there are a few options.

If you are likely to do a few tiling projects around your home, or are likely to lend specialist tools to friends, neigh-
bours, or relatives; a tradesman’s tile cutter is an excellent investment (and will make you popular with anyone else
starting their own tiling projects!)

If this is a once-only tiling project, then the best option will be to hire a tile cutter from your local Beaumont Tiles
store. You might also consider buying a cheaper ‘handyman’ tile cutter. While these can be a good option, they are
not built to last a long time. They will, however, do a great job for one or two jobs around the home.

To make a Straight Cut

Step 1

Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut.

Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to
allow for even grout joints.

Step 2

Place the tile in the tile cutter and run the scorer across
the tile (once only!). This creates a break point in the tile.

Step 3

Push down the breaker. This will deliver a nice clean and
evenly cut tile.
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To cut a shape

Step 1

Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut.

Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to
allow for even grout joints.

Step 2

Use the tiles cutter to score each of the lines that will be
cut. This creates a break point in the tile.

Step 3

Cut to the scored lines using an electric grinder. SIdes

first and then the middle.

To cut a small shape or to cut away

a small piece

Step 1

Using a pencil, mark where the tile needs to be cut.

Make sure that you cut the tile smaller than the space to
allow for even grout joints.

Step 2

Use the tiles cutter to score each of the lines that will be
cut. This creates a break point in the tile.

Step 3

Break off little pieces (‘nibbles’) of the tile using a pair of

tile nibblers until the mark shape has been achieved. pro tip:
Always break of small amounts at a time: never try to Always wear safety glasses and a respirator
break off the whole shape at once. when cutting tiles with an electric grinder.
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CUTTING HOLES IN TILES FOR FITTINGS

Cutting holes in tiles is quite easy, and there are basically

three options. You can either use a tradesman hole cut-
ter, a handyman hole cutter, or you can drill and ‘nibble’
the hole to the required size.

Whether you use a hole cutter or a drill will depend upon

what you are making the holes for. If it’s for a tap or
another penetration, you will need to use a hole cutter
before laying the tile.
If the hole is for a fitting then it can be made with a drill
after the tile is laid.

CUTTING WITH A HOLE CUTTER

The method here is the same whether you use a trades-
man or handyman hole cutter. The difference between
the two is that the tradesman hole cutter is a profes-
sional quality tool. While the handyman hole cutter isn’t
designed to last as long as the professional model, it will
work well for one or two jobs around the home

Step 1

Use a pencil to mark where the tile needs to be cut and

mark the centre of the hole

Step 2

Place some tape on the centre mark. This is to prevent

the drill bit from slipping on the surface of the tile.

Place the tile over a stable and suitable work surface.

Step 3

Drill the hole using a hole cutter.

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DRILL A HOLE FOR FITTINGS

Step 1

Use a pencil to mark the spot where you need to drill.

Place some tape on the centre mark. This is to prevent

the drill bit from slipping on the surface of the tile.

Step 2

Use another piece of tape to make a small well to collect

the dust when we drill. This will save a lot of cleaning up!

Step 3

Drill the hole. Do not use the hammer function on your

drill until you have drilled through the glazed surface of
the tile.

Remove the tape and the job is done.

check it out:
112375 112376
Diamond Core Diamond Core
Drill Bit 38mm Drill Bit 50mm
 DIY
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LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES

Once you’ve done a trial “dry lay” with your tiles and your
floor surface is clean and ready for tiling, so are you!

These 12 steps will take you through how to lay and

grout your tiles.

Step 1

Measure out from the wall to establish a square line and

starting point (the video on our website shows how to do
this).

Mark the area where you will start tiling.

Step 2

Brush and prime the floor.

Step 3

Mix the adhesive (follow the manufacturer’s instructions)

and spread about one square metre of adhesive on the
floor where you are going to start tiling.

Step 4

For floor tiles, we use a 10mm notched trowel to spread

adhesive. By using a notched trowel, the adhesive is
applied leaving little tracks on the floor. Once the tile is
bedded into place these notches will flatten out to leave
a bed of adhesive 5mm thick.

Step 5

Place each tile in position with a firm push and bed it into
place with a slight up and down wiggle across the notch-
es of the adhesive.

Every now and then, lift a tile to check that it has com-
plete coverage with the adhesive.
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LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES

Step 6

As you lay the tiles, use spacers to set the grout joints
and to make small adjustments to the tile placement.
This keeps all grout joints level and even.

When you select your tiles, the Beaumont Tiles con-

sultant will help you select grout joint sizes. We usually
recommend 3-5mm for floor tiles.

Don’t forget to clean off any excess adhesive from the

face of the tiles as you work.

Allow the adhesive 24 hours to dry before grouting.

NOW IT IS TIME TO GROUT

While grouting is not a difficult process, a well-grouted
job can make all the difference to the finished project.
Cleaning, buffing and polishing (with thorough repeating!)
will pay untold dividends.

Step 7

When mixing the grout, add the powder to the water to

ensure a thorough mix with no lumps.

Mix to a thick paste-like consistency.

Step 8

While the grout settles as per the instructions on the bag,

clean the area of any dust or mess.

Step 9

Apply the grout. Push it into the joints and compress by

wiping over at an angle across the joints.

Do not apply grout to the corners where walls meet

floors and where two walls meet. Silicone will need to be
applied here.
 DIY
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LAY AND GROUT BATHROOM FLOOR TILES

Step 10

Remove all the excess grout. Allow the grout to dry and
for a film to set on the face of the tiles (this will take about
an hour).

Step 11

Clean up with a damp (but not too wet) sponge. Do not

wash the floor or overly wet the surface. The trick is to lift
the film without wetting the actual grouted joint.

Make sure that you keep rinsing the sponge as you work.

Step 12

After most of the grout is removed from the tile, buff over
it with clean cloths and a doodle bug. Repeat this pro-
cess three more times, it pays to be thorough!

Wait one week before cleaning your new tiled floor.

pro tip: The size of your tiles will determine the size of your trowel.
For tiles smaller than 300x300, you can use an 8mm trowel,
otherwise you’ll need a 10mm trowel.

90501 90502
Ardex Stainless Ardex Stainless
Steel Adhesive Steel Adhesive
Trowel 8mm Trowel 10mm
 DIY
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TILE A BATHROOM WALL

The secret to tiling a wall perfectly is all in the edges: the

bottom row of tiles, and the ‘column’ of tiles in the cor-
ner. We’ll show you how to measure these out (account-
ing for any variations in the wall or floors), and you’ll see
why it’s important to start tiling at the second row. The
bottom row will fit in once the floor is tiled as well.

Step 1

Cover the floor with some off-cut sheeting or heavy drop

sheets. This protects the waterproof membrane from
damage while we stand on it to tile the walls.

Step 2

Now we have to decide where to start tiling.

On the wall, mark the height of one full wall tile from the
lowest spot on the floor. This will be somewhere outside
the shower hob. Place a tile in position first, and measure
up from there.

Step 3

From the mark you just made, measure 25mm down and
make another mark.

Draw a level line across the wall at the height of the lower
mark (use a spirit level to make sure it is completely
level). This is where the second horizontal row of tiles will
commence.

Step 4

Set up your Tile Jacks so that the top edge of a timber

straight edge is level with the horizontal line you’ve just
marked. The tiles of the second row will temporarily sit
on this piece of timber, so you will need to make sure it is
sitting against the wall.
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TILE A BATHROOM WALL

Step 5

So we can decide if we can use a full tile at the wall

junction (the corner between the two walls), we need to
check that both walls are level and plumb. If they aren’t,
we will need to cut these tiles and start with a narrower
cut tile. This is to keep the tiles level and to hide the fact
that the walls are out of plumb.

Step 6

Mark the wall where the outside edge of the first tile will
finish, then draw a line up the wall at that point (again,
using the spirit level). This marks the first vertical row of
tiles.

TIP: Measure from the second row up so you can finish

on a full tile at the top.

Step 7

Spread about one square metre of adhesive so that it is

enough for two horizontal rows of tiles and one vertical
row of tiles on the first wall. Remember that we are start-
ing one row up from the bottom.

Step 8

With pre-mixed wall adhesive, we use a 6mm notched

trowel (check the instructions on the pack) to apply
the adhesive to the wall. Once the tile is bedded into
place, these tracks flatten out to give full coverage to the
surface. A 6mm notch will leave a bed of adhesive 3mm
thick once the tile is in place.

When applying wall adhesive, we always suggest that the

notches run horizontally.

Step 9

Place each tile in position by giving it a firm push into the

adhesive and bed it into place with a slight up-and-down
wiggle against the notches of the adhesive.
 DIY
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TILE A BATHROOM WALL

Step 10

It is important to lift a tile every now and then after laying

it into the adhesive. This is to check that you are achiev-
ing complete coverage of the adhesive to the tile.

Step 11

As you lay the tiles, use spacers to set the grout joints
and to make small adjustments to the tile placement.

When you select your tiles, your Beaumont Tiles consult-

ant will help you select grout joint sizes, but we usually
recommend no less than 3mm for wall tiles.

Step 12

The bottom row of tiles is the last to go in. These tiles will
need to be cut to fit in the bottom row before being glued
into place with the tile adhesive.

Don’t forget to allow for a grout joint above and below

the tiles when cutting them for the bottom row. Effective-
ly, the tile will need to be 6mm smaller than the space
where it will be placed.
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CLEAN YOUR BATHROOM AFTER TILING

Once your tiles have been laid and grouted, they will need to be cleaned thoroughly to remove all residue cement
and grout smears, silicone leaching, and dirt. This cleaning is best done about a week after laying the tiles, as the
grout will require 5-7 days to properly dry and age.

Step 1

Begin by sweeping the floor to remove all loose debris. Then saturate the grout joints with cool, clean water.

Step 3

Dilute phosphoric acid cleaner in warm water and apply the solution to the section of floor to be cleaned.

Note: Once the solution has been applied to the floor, it cannot be allowed to dry until it is thoroughly rinsed. Add
more water as necessary.

Step 4

Once the solution has been left for 5-6 minutes (to break down the excess grout, dirt, and grease), scrub the tiles
with a brush to lift the dirt, and remove with a wet vacuum cleaner.

Repeat steps 3 and 4 if necessary.

Step 5

Finally, before allowing the area to dry, rinse thoroughly several times with cold, clean water, agitating with the
scrubbing brush to ensure complete removal of the acid cleaner before using the wet vacuum cleaner to remove
the excess water from the surface.

Note: If the surface isn’t rinsed thoroughly enough, or is allowed to dry before rinsing; an off-white deposit will re-
main on the tiles, and will be more difficult to remove.

Step 6

Dilute cleaning detergent for high concentration in your second bucket of warm water and apply to the tiles with a
heavy scrubbing brush. Leave for 5-15 minutes before rinsing thoroughly with cool, clean water. Remove the ex-
cess water with a wet vacuum cleaner.

Once your tiles are clean, maintaining them at their best through regular cleaning is easy. See the next sheet in this
series for tips on routing cleaning.

Note: Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using cleaning products on your tiles.
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KEEPING YOUR BATHROOM TILES CLEAN

Tiles are one of the most hygienic and easily maintained wall and floor surfaces you can choose. As they are virtu-
ally non-porous, tiles tend not to absorb any liquid, smoke, or fumes. In other words, it’s very, very hard to get tiles
dirty! They will only need a quick clean once a week!

A simple routine clean following these three easy steps will keep your tiles in top condition:

Step 1

Vacuum or sweep the area. This will remove most of the dirt and grit from the area. As well as making the next step
much easier, getting rid of these little abrasive particles will protect your tiles from becoming scratched.

Step 2

Dilute Concentrated Stone & Tile Cleaner (refer to the manufacturer’s instructions) and apply to tiles with a mop or
sponge.

Step 3

Agite solution with a brush or scrub pad and mop up the dirty solution before it dries.

check it out:
508005
Concentrated Stone
& Tile Cleaner
 DIY
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Tiling a bathroom: What You’ll Need
Adhesives
90045 90578
ABA Powerstik Powder ABA Mixing Bucket
20kg

Grouts
90574 90575
ABA Easy Grout White 750gm ABA Easy Grout Black 750gm

90576 90577
ABA Easy Grout Travertine 750gm ABA Easy Grout Slate Grey 750gm

508304 508005
Aerosol Sameday Grout Sealer Concentrated Tile & Stone Cleaner 946mL
443mL

Leveller (optional)

90570 90571 90572

SALS Washer (400 pc bag) SALS Stems (400 pc bucket) SALS Caps (400 pc bucket)

Tools

115651 115839 115704

Electric Bench Saw 500mm 600W Cordless Vera Tool Coscut Tile Cutter 500mm

90515 90516 90524

Ardex Straight Jaw Ardex Curved Jaw Tile Ardex Spacer Lugs
Tile Nipper Nipper 3mm (500)

115706 90502 90506

DTA Professional 3 Vial Level Ardex Stainless Steel Ardex Stainless Steel
600mm Adhesive Trowel Gauging Trowel
10mm 200mm
 DIY
made
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Tiling a bathroom: What You’ll Need
Tools

90530 111301 90536

Ardex Rubber Straight Edge 2100mm Ardex Micro
Grout Float Sponge

90538 110282
Ardex Marking Pencils Tradesman Ultra Knee Pads

Waterproofing

87650
ABA Barrierflex Waterproofing Kit

From your toolbox

Electric Drill
Clean Rags
String
Tape Measure
Paint Brush