SCOOTER TROUBLE-SHOOTING & TUNE-UP

PROCEDURES 2 Stroke & 4 Stroke Engines.

A. It takes 3 things for an engine to run.

1. Fuel – Add a full tank of clean gas, 90 octane or higher.
2. Spark – Make sure the battery has a full charge and is reading 12-13.4 volts.
3. Compression

If your engine does not run, then either the engine is not getting gas, spark, or
compression, or a combination of them. It’s always best to run the scooter
weekly. A scooter that is not used regularly will not run well. Even a
brand new one.

B. The 5 most common reasons why scooters don't run.

1. Fouled spark plug. (Fouled by fuel)

2. Ignition system. (Dead battery)
3. Fuel Flow (to the CARBURETOR)
4. Dirty carburetor (inside, old gummed up gas)
5. Kill Switch (Make sure the kill switch is on and the brake lever pulled in)

A dirty carburetor is the most common problem.

BASIC TROUBLESHOOTING - follow these steps to get it to run

1. Fouled spark plug: The first thing to check on a scooter that won't run is to
see if you have spark at the spark plug.

Spark plugs in 2 strokes get "fouled" easily. This is mostly because of the oil that the
engine burns. Fouled means the spark won't jump the gap. It won't jump the gap
because there is a film of baked on gas and oil on the insulator, (the white ceramic
part inside the plug) that allows the electrical energy to "bleed" off and run to ground
instead of jumping the gap. The spark plug might still look good, yet the spark still
won't jump the gap. That is why if your engine quit running, or won’t start, it is smart
to replace the plug and check for spark.

Pull the old spark plug out and put a NEW spark plug in the cap and hold the metal
part of the plug firmly against the cylinder head while you engage the electric starter
with the key and kill switch on. It will help to do this in a dark area to make it easier to
see the spark. Make sure you have a good spark plug to start with. A black, oily, or
wet one will not spark.

2. Ignition system: If there is no spark, check the ignition system.

The Ignition system is composed of a CDI, Stator, Trigger coil, and Ignition
coil.

Check the voltage output of the stator and the trigger coil using a voltage meter. They
should be 60-120 VAC for the trigger and 15-40 ACV for the stator. Check for loose
or disconnected wiring. Replace the CDI if needed.
 If there is spark, place a spoonful of fuel into the spark plug hole and try to start it.
(Note: if it is a 2 stroke engine, make sure the gas has some 2 stroke oil in it).
If it starts and runs for 5 seconds and then dies, then check for fuel flow
Carburetor.

3. Fuel Flow: FUEL FLOW to the CARBURETOR

Remove the fuel line going into the carburetor. (Remove Clip from fuel hose at
petcock. Using a simple vacuum pump or any suction device, pull a vacuum on the fuel
petcock for approx. 1 minute. Fuel should be entering the petcock from the fuel tank).
If no fuel flow, you must take the petcock off and replace it.

If you have fuel flow to the carburetor and spark at the plug and it still
won't run, then the carburetor should be cleaned.

4. Dirty carburetor: CLEANING the CARBURETOR

Clogged or a dirty carburetor is the most common reason for poor

performance.

a. The parts of the carburetor that are dirty or clogged are the small holes inside the
carburetor (air and fuel passages), not the outside. USE COMPRESSED AIR (80psi) to
blow it out. The carburetor must be removed. Take off the float bowl (on the bottom),
and then remove the brass "main jet" in the middle of the carburetor and blow air
through it. Hold it up to a light and look through it. It must be clean and clear. If it is
not clear you must clean it with a Jet cleaner. A small piece of wire may be used
instead of jet cleaner, but be careful.

b.Next you should screw the idle mixture screw in, (Note: Before you screw it in, look
at where the screwdriver slot is at, then count how many turns it takes to go all the
way in, such as 1 3/4 turns. Be sure to remember this number for later). Then remove
all the screws being careful to note where everything goes.

c. Next the carburetor should be thoroughly cleaned. Submerge the carburetor

overnight in a can of carburetor cleaner (remove rubber and plastic parts first), and
then blow it out with compressed air, making sure to clear out all the small orifices.
Then reassemble all the parts and reinstall the carburetor.

Note: Remember to turn the idle mixture screw back out to its original setting, usually
between 1 and 2 full turns out from all the way in.

Note: Using fuel stabilizer, such as Opti-Mizer, will help to keep the carburetor clean.

If the scooter is Still not running at all or correctly?

Have you installed a brand new spark plug?
Have you tested the ignition system?
Have you Checked for fuel flow to the carburetor?
Have you thoroughly cleaned the carburetor?
6 Additional steps to Service:

1 .Check if the Muffler is clogged with carbon.

2. Check if the Exhaust port is clogged with carbon.
3. Check if the Rings, Piston, or Cylinder are worn out or damaged and don't
have enough compression.
4. Check if the Air filter (going into the carburetor) is too dirty to flow air very
well.
5. Check if the air filter is missing, and the engine is getting too much air.
6. Check if the Head gasket is leaking.

1. MUFFLER CLOGGED WITH CARBON

A scooter that has a clogged muffler will usually start and run, but will not run
well or fast.

To test for a clogged muffler:

Remove the muffler and run the scooter without the muffler.
If your scooter goes a lot faster, then the muffler is probably clogged and
should be replaced. Cleaning the muffler can be difficult and dangerous.

2. EXHAUST PORT IS CLOGGED WITH CARBON

Same as a clogged muffler, it will run but not very fast.

To check for a clogged Exhaust Port, remove the exhaust pipe and look into the
exhaust port (on the cylinder). You should be able to rotate the ignition flywheel with
your hand while looking into the port and clearly see the piston going up and down. If
you can't you need to remove the head and cylinder and thoroughly clean the exhaust
port being extremely careful not to scratch the cylinder where the piston rides up and
down.

3. WORN OUT RINGS, PISTON, OR CYCLINDER

(test for compression)

The compression should be between 120 psi and 140 psi, if not check the
following:

Look for scuffing and scoring around the cylinder and piston skirt. If there is heavy
scuffing and scoring around the cylinder they will need to be replaced. If there is no
scuffing and scoring, check for evidence of a seizure. If there is smeared aluminum
from the piston on the cylinder and even smeared melted aluminum over part of the
rings, then these parts need to be replaced.

If the scooter has over 3000 miles on it with the original rings, new rings should be
installed.

INSTALLING PISTON and RINGS CORRECTLY

All parts must be cleaned very carefully before you service and rebuild a new “top
end”. Cover the piston and cylinder with new 2-stroke oil. The piston may only be
inserted one way. It should have an arrow on the top, which is supposed to point at
the exhaust port (away from the carburetor).

Rings are usually (but not always) supposed to be installed letter side up(towards the
spark plug). If they don't have small letters on them, look closely at the ring ends and
the type of pin they have to see how they mate together.

Next, locate the ring end gaps correctly on the piston. Look closely in the piston ring
grooves. You should see a small pin in the groove. The ring ends go right at those
pins. (Note: If you have 2 rings the pins are NOT in the same location for both)

The difficult part often is compressing the rings with your fingers while keeping them in
the right location (at the pins), while sliding the cylinder on to the piston.

4&5. AIR FILTER

Engines are designed to run with air filters to keep dirt out so that the piston
and rings and cylinder will last a long time. If the air filter gets clogged with dirt
or too much oil, it will richen up the air/fuel ratio and slow it down, and possibly
foul the spark plugs.

Foam air filters can be cleaned in gasoline and allowed to dry, then LIGHTLY oiled.
(Spread only a light coating of oil around). Paper Air filters can be blown off with
compressed air or should be replaced. Never use oil on a paper Air filter.

Warning: Running the engine with no air filter can cause the engine to get too much
air and lean out, and possibly seize.

6. LEAKING HEAD GASKET

First, the head nuts should be tightened correctly.

Loosen all the head nuts, then tighten each bolt or nut a ¼ turn in an X pattern until
they are all tight. Torque setting: tighten in 3 increments (3-6-9lbs) for 9 foot
pounds (for a 6mm thread size) with a torque wrench.

If you have a leak you can sometimes hear compression squeezing out past the head
gasket. Check closely between the cylinder and head to see if it is oily. Oil usually
indicates a leak. You can also remove the head and gasket and look for black traces of
soot on the surfaces of the gasket or head or cylinder.

Note: Head gaskets on 2 stroke scooters are made of metal (usually aluminum or
copper). Metal head gaskets can be reused as long as there isn’t any damage.

TUNE-UP PROCEDURES
ENGINE TUNING
A. Examining SPARK PLUGS

Two stroke engines are sensitive to the level of heat inside the engine. The main jet
size in the carburetor is the main determination of how hot the engine runs at wide-
open throttle.

Too “hot” and they will seize the piston.

Too “cool” and they will not make full power.

Engines get the hottest when they are running at wide open throttle making maximum
HP. Examining a spark plug is the best way to see how hot the engine is running.
Examining the plug means looking at the ceramic insulator inside the plug and
checking the color. The color will indicate the overall level of heat in the engine.

To examine the plug, fully warm up the engine by running it for about 10 minutes.
Then run full throttle for 60 seconds and immediately cut the engine. Let the engine
and plug cool, and remove the plug and begin the examination of the plug color.

The color of a plug on a correctly running engine is a light brown or tan

color.
a. A lighter color than that means danger of a piston seizure.
b. A Darker color than that is acceptable, but real dark or wet looking means the
Main Jet in the carburetor is too big (too rich). Remove the main Jet and look at the
number on the side and buy the next size smaller (leaner).

Note: To get an accurate plug reading takes a fairly new plug. Replace old or warn
plugs.

B. ADJUSTING the CARBURETOR

There are usually 2 external adjustments on the carburetor.

1. 1. Idle Mixture: Idle mixture controls the air to fuel ratio (at idle).
2. 2. Idle Speed screws: Idle speed usually opens the slide or butterfly for a
little more airflow.

Both adjustments only affect the engine idle, and do not affect how fast your scooter
goes or how well the engine runs while going fast. Adjust the idle to be fast enough
not to stall, but slow enough not to engage the transmission.

Note: Idle mixture screws are usually set between 1 and 2 turns out from all the way
in. Some carburetors with a slide have a needle in the middle of the slide with
adjustment slots on the needle for raising or lowering the needle. Raising the needle
makes the mid-range richer. Lowering the needle makes the mid-range leaner.

GAS & OIL for TWO STROKES

Most 49cc scooters have 2 stroke engines and must use oil in the fuel
for lubrication. 2 Stroke Scooters have an auto-lube oil pump, so that
you don't have to pre-mix the gas and oil. Always check the oil
reservoir every time gas is added to the scooter and keep full.

OIL

Always use Opti 2 oil from CMSI to maintain the engine warranty. Check the oil
reservoir every time gas is added to scooter and keep it full.

Fuel

CMSI Scooters engines operate best utilizing high octane (90) unleaded fuel. Use of
lower grades of fuel may cause the engine to become damaged. Warning: Never leave fuel
in the tank for long periods of time without treating it with fuel stabilizer. See below.

Fuel stabilizer

CMSI recommends to add Opti-Mizer brand fuel treatment to the fuel, because
scooter carburetor jets are so tiny that they get clogged easily. Fuel treatment will help
dissolve deposits in the fuel that will clog these jets. It also removes any water that
might have entered into the fuel system.

FUEL FILTER

Scooters have small carburetors, and can clog easily. Replace the fuel filter at regular
service intervals. The filter has an ARROW molded into it, designating which direction
the gas is supposed to flow through it.

SPARK PLUGS

Replace the spark plugs at regular service intervals or when the spark plus gets old,
dirty, or warn. For the correct size for the TNG engine model, go to the TNG web site
under the technical data section or see the owners manual. Use only the plug that is
recommended for that scooter.

BATTERY

The batteries in scooters are very small and can become discharged very quickly, so it
is important to connect them to a battery trickle charger when the scooter will not be
used for several days. If the scooter is not used weekly, put the charger on for 24
hours then disconnect, repeat process every 2 weeks. If the battery is not a sealed
type, check water levels in the cells and add distilled water as needed. Never add more
acid.

For the correct battery size for the TNG model, go to the TNG web site under the
technical data section or see the owner’s manual. Use only the battery size that is
recommended for that scooter.

ELIMINATE PARTS FALLING OFF

To Stop fasteners from loosing up, use Loctite blue 242 on all fasteners when
servicing. Set all structural fasteners to the proper torque setting.