(Eyewitness Travel Guides) Alex Bellos Et Al.-brazil-DK Publishing (2016)

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
BRAZIL
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
BRAZIL
Contents
How to Use this Guide 6
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose
Editorial Manager Ankita Awasthi
Design Manager Priyanka Thakur
Project Editor Alka Thakur
Project Designer Mathew Kurien
Editors Arundhti Bhanot, Nandita Jaishankar, Vandana Mohindra
Designers Rajnish Kashyap, Baishakhee Sengupta
Cartography Manager Uma Bhattacharya
Senior Cartographer Suresh Kumar
Senior Picture Researcher Taiyaba Khatoon
Picture Researcher Sumita Khatwani
Senior DTP Designer Vinod Harish
Contributors
Alex Bellos, Shawn Blore, Dilwyn Jenkins, Oliver Marshall,
Christopher Pickard, Alex Robinson, Neiva Augusta Silva
Consultant
Alex Robinson
Costumed performers in the Sambódromo,
Photographers or samba parade
Demetrio Carrasco, Nigel Hicks, Alex Robinson, Linda Whitwam
Illustrators
Surat Kumar Mantoo, Arun Pottirayil, Gautam Trivedi, Mark Warner Introducing
Printed and bound in China Brazil
First American Edition, 2007
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Discovering Brazil 10
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Putting Brazil
Reprinted with revisions 2010, 2012, 2016
on the Map 16
Copyright © 2007, 2016 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company A Portrait of Brazil 20
Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication
may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in Brazil Through
any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or
otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the the Year 44
above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
The History of Brazil 50
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISSN:1552-1554
ISBN 978-1-4654-3959-8
The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: travelguides@dk.com.
Statue of Dom Pedro II, Museu Imperial,
Front cover main image: Christ the Redeemer and the Sugar Loaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro Petrópolis
Rio de Janeiro’s beautiful coastline with Vermelha and Copacabana beaches
Brazil Area by
Area
Southeast Brazil
64
Northeast Brazil
176
Northern Brazil
260
Central West Brazil 294 Aerial view of Rio de Janeiro City
Southern Brazil
328
Travelers’ Travel Information 418
Needs
Where to Stay
366
Where to Eat & Drink

382
Shopping in Brazil 398
Entertainment in Brazil
400 The bustling Terra Brasilis restaurant, on
Praia Vermelha, Urca, Rio de Janeiro
Specialized Holidays &
Outdoor Activities 402 General Index 428
Survival Guide Acknowledgments 444
Majestic waterfall in the Parque do Caracol, Practical Information 408 Phrase Book 447
near Canela
Igreja e Convento de São Francisco,

Salvador
6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This guide helps you get the most and attractions. Information on
from your visit to Brazil, providing expert accommodation, restaurants, shopping,
recommendations and detailed practical entertainment, and activities can be found
information. Introducing Brazil maps in the Travelers’ Needs section, while the
the country and sets it in its historical and Survival Guide contains practical tips on
cultural context. The following sections are everything you need to know, from money
devoted to the country’s capital and various and language to getting around the country
regions, and include the major towns, sights and seeking medical care.
Major Cities
In this guide, Brazil is described
in 15 sections, two of which
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY
Rio de Janeiro is quite simply one of the world’s most beautiful
and vibrant cities, and is the number-one destination for visitors
BRAZIL AREA BY AREA 71
1 Introduction
An overview of
the history and
coming to Brazil. Its unique setting, with dramatic mountains
concentrate on the country’s and beaches at its very center, sets it apart from the other great
cities of the world. In addition, Rio’s flamboyant Carnaval, samba,
characteristics
and bossa nova make for a heady mix that is impossible to ignore.
major cities – Rio de Janeiro and Rio de Janeiro was first discovered Today, Rio is an international metropolis
of each city.
by European explorers on January 1, and a spectacular tropical resort. It has
São Paulo. A section is devoted 1502. They mistook the huge Guanabara
Bay for the mouth of a river (rio) and
called the site “River of January,” thus
several iconic sights, including the
enormous statue of Christ that looms
protectively over the city from Corcovado
to each city. All the sights are giving the city its name. Evidence of
the city’s colonial past can still be seen
mountain, the easily recognizable Sugar
LoafMmountain at one end of Urca Bay,
in downtown Rio, with buildings and and the famous stadium, Estádio Maracanã,
Each city can be quickly
numbered and plotted on an artifacts dating from the 16th to the
19th centuries, including the imposing
Paço Imperial and Palácio Tiradentes.
which opened for the 1950 World Cup and
has hosted crowds of up to 200,000 people.
Rio’s residents, affectionately called identified by its color-coding.
In 1763, the city became the capital of “Cariocas,” are a laid-back, friendly people
Exploring Map. Information on Brazil’s Vice-Royalty and in 1808, the
Portuguese royal family and court
who love to go out. Visitors will be spoiled
for choice in this hedonistic city, and can
abandoned Lisbon for Rio, making it the visit Lapa for its extravagant clubs, Gávea
each sight is easy to locate within capital of both Brazil and the Portuguese
Empire. It remained home to the Brazilian
for its bars, and Ipanema and Leblon for
their boutiques and restaurants. Rio’s
monarchy until 1889 and the capital of beaches provide ample opportunity for all
the chapter as it follows the the Brazilian Republic until 1960, when
the title was awarded to the newly built
manner of water sports and are a great
meeting place for the city’s residents,
Bauhaus-style Brasília. both rich and poor.
numerical order on the map.

Country maps show the location
of each of the cities.
The colorful Copacabana beach, lined with palm trees

140 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y 141
Sunset over Botofogo Bay and the Sugar Loaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro
Exploring São Paulo City AV MA RGI

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Getting Around
S C
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São Paulo is well connected, with daily international flights to
BR
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Lagoa most major European, and North and South American cities.
4 8 of these
Ibirapuera
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1Most S O depart
U T H Efrom
A S TCumbica
B R A Zairport
IL in Guarulhos, 19 S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y 149
miles (30 km) northeast of the city. Domestic flights leave from
AV EN I DA
PA R QU E
Congonhas Airport, just south of Ibirapuera Park in the main
IB IR A PU ER A
urban center. There are buses to every corner of Brazil and
EN
Á RIO beyond to Bolivia, Argentina, Paraguay, and Uruguay. demo litionisafter
There an There are plenty of cinemas in local society and the global
NT
AR
TO
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extensive network of taxis and buses within the city. World The War II, the
metro and around Paulista, along the community. The focus here is
QU
AV
and urban railway are clean, fast, and efficient. Carsavenue can be had rented lost its avenue itself, in the Shopping as much on Brazilian people as
at both the airports, although the city’s numerous splendid character
one-way Paulista Mall, near Brigadeiro it is on the sport itself, allowing
High-rise modern buildings dominating the skyline, central São Paulo systems and choking traffic make driving a by the
little 1960s. Today,
daunting. metro, and dotted along Rua da visitors to get a sense of how
only one mansion Consolação, near Paulista’s habits and behaviors changed
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp373–4 and pp389–90 For keys to symbols see back
remains, theflapFrench- northern end. in this country throughout the
style Casa das Rosas, Together with the Praça da 20th century.
which is now a Sé (see p142), Paulista is one of The temporary exhibits at the
cultural center the city’s most important venues museum are complemented
managed and run for protests and celebrations. by a 16-stage “fan path,” which
by São Paulo state. For a taste of Avenida Paulista visitors may walk through. Each
Interesting art shows as it once was, head a few room along the route offers a
are occasionally held blocks south, across the chic mixture of some of the history
here, but the 1935 shopping streets of the Jardins and excitement of soccer.
Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s mansion itself is

well worth visiting
for its pretty rose
and into Jardim Europa. Here,
along Avenida Brasil and
Avenida Groenlandia, the stately i Liberdade
Shrine Gate at Oriental Quarter Japanese Town, Liberdade
community, their origins, and roof. Visitors are welcome to

garden and Art homes of the city’s current rich their lives in early 20th-century attend the various ceremonies,
sights by category: churches, cathedrals, Nouveau stained-
glass window.
can be seen.
Praça da Sé, via Av da Liberdade.
q Praça de Sé/Liberdade.
@ Liberdade Rodoviária.
Brazil. These include a replica of
the Kasato-Maru – the ship
the most impressive of which
is the Cerimônia de Kannon,
There are a few P Casa das Rosas which brought the first immi- which takes place each month.
monastaries, historic buildings, museums, Aerial view of the exclusive Avenida Paulista
other sights of
interest along the
street. The Instituto
Av Paulista 37. Tel (11) 3285 6986.
Open 10am–10pm Tue–Sat,
10am–6pm Sun & public hols.
São Paulo is home to more
ethnic Japanese people than
any other city outside Japan.
grants in 1908 (see p173) and
a complete early Japanese-
Brazilian agricultural cottage.
The rituals, paying homage to
the Buddha’s compassionate
nature, are accompanied by
y Avenida Paulista
parks, gardens, streets, and neighborhoods. Map 4 E2, F2 & F3. q Brigadeiro/
Trianon-Masp/Consolação. _ Gay
Itaú Cultural, near Brigadeiro
metro station, hosts a
concerts and exhibitions, all of
range of
E Centro Cultural FIESP
Av Paulista 1313. Tel (11) 3146 7406.
Liberdade, located just south of
the city center, is the hub of the
Japanese community. The
The building also features a
lovely rooftop garden.
One of São Paulo’s many
traditional Japanese instruments.
E Museu da Imigração
which are free of charge. It also E Instituto Itaú Cultural neighborhood, small and easily Buddhist temples, built in 1995, Japonesa
Pride (Jun).
houses the largest currency Av Paulista 149. Tel (11) 2168 1777. manageable on foot, is best the Templo Busshinji lies west Rua São Joaquim 381. Tel (11) 3209
Modern São Paulo’s first symbol museum in the country, the Itaú Open 9am–8pm Tue–Fri, 11am–8pm explored during the afternoon. of the Museu da Imigração 5465. Open 1:30–5:30pm Tue–Sun. &
of prosperity, Avenida Paulista Numismática. The Centro Sat & Sun. ^ Streets are lined with shops and Japonesa on the same street.  Templo Busshinji
and its crowded skyscrapers Cultural FIESP, at Trianon-Masp, Y Parque Trianon restaurants selling everything, Its traditional Japanese-style Rua São Joaquim 285. Tel (11) 3208
continue to attest to Brazil’s is a business headquarters with Rua Peixoto Gomide 949. from woks and manga comics architecture comprising wood is 4515. Open 9am–5pm daily. 8 by
status as South America’s major a small Centro Cultural that Open 6am–6pm daily. to sushi and sashimi. On topped with a pyramid-shaped prior appointment. &
economic power. Though often presents free live theater and Sundays, there is a lively market
compared to New York’s Fifth hosts occasional art shows. in the Praça de Liberdade,
Avenue, it is actually a Immediately to its north and u Museu do where stalls serve up steaming São Paulo Fashion Week
Futebol
3
corporate valley, business-like opposite MASP is the Parque lacquer bowls of miso soup
Detailed Information All the

Established in 1996, São Paulo’s fashion week is Latin America’s
and functional. Trianon, the only green respite Estádio do Pacaembu, Praça
and yakisoba noodles. most important fashion event. All of the top Brazilian names and
In the 19th century, when a from the concrete. It was named Charles Miller s/n. q Paulista. Liberdade’s main thorough- faces, including Amir Slama and Havaianas, are showcased here,
Uruguayan named Joaquin in homage to the gardens of Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (hours fare, Rua Galvão Bueno, runs together with supermodels from around the world. The fashion
sights in each city are described Eugenio de Lima first set up the Palace of Versailles, to which may change on match days). south from this square, lined fraternity can be seen in hip bars and boutiques in the wealthy
house here, Paulista was a hill it bears no resemblance. ∑ museudofutebol.org.br with the bulk of the shops and corners of the city. Over 100,000 people visit the show itself,
on the outskirts of a small However, in the quiet of the decorated with red Japanese which takes place twice a year – usually in January and March or
colonial town surrounded by early morning, small mammals, The Museum of Football is arches, or torii. Many of April – in Oscar Niemeyer’s Bienal building in Parque do Ibirapuera
(see pp150–51). More column inches are devoted to the event
individually. Addresses, telephone pastoral land and forest.

Around this time, São Paulo
was growing rich on trains
and coffee. Others followed
including agouti and marmo-
sets, can be seen foraging here,
and in the heat of the day, the
trees provide welcome shade.
not to be missed by any fan
of “the beautiful game.”
Explore the history of soccer
in Brazil and its impact on both
Liberdade’s most traditional
Japanese restaurants are
located on, and around,
Rua Tomaz Gonzaga, which
than to any other activity in Brazil, except for soccer and political
scandals. The event generates an estimated $45 million through
the media alone, with more than 2,500 newspaper and magazine
pages and almost 200 hours of television coverage.
numbers, opening hours, admission de Lima and began to build

large houses here.
By the turn of the 19th
cuts across Galvão Bueno,
south of the square.
At the corner of Galvão
century, the avenue had Bueno and Rua São Joaquim,
charges, and information on how become São Paulo’s most

desirable address, and was lined
with large, opulent mansions
an undistinguished block
houses the Museu da
Imigração Japonesa (Japanese
to get there are given for each

owned by extremely wealthy Immigration Museum). The
Brazilian moguls, or the coffee museum was opened in 1978
barons. Each mansion reflected by the erstwhile prince, now
the architectural predilections Emperor Akihito of Japan. It
sight. The key to symbols is shown of the owner, be it Neo-Classical,

Rhineland, or even mock-Tudor.
Having suffered large-scale Parque Trianon, with its lush greenery, on Avenida Paulista
has two floors of artifacts and
displays devoted to telling the
story of the Japanese immigrant
A fashion show in full swing, with models displaying a collection
on the back flap.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp373–4 and pp389–90
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7
BAHIA
The largest state in the Northeast, Bahia is known for its endless
stretches of stunning beach along the Atlantic coast. The idyllic
white-sand coast is dotted with laid-back resorts along its
Each area of Brazil is Brazil Area by Area
length. Beyond the gorgeous beaches and plains, where most of
Bahia’s population lives today, lies the sertão, an arid semi-desert
identified by color-coded
partially covered in caatinga, a dry scrub forrest rish in plant and bird life.
thumb tabs. In this book, the country is
When the Portuguese first arrived in Bahia was also the key point of entry for
Bahia in 1500, the entire 621-mile
(1,000-km) coastline was covered in a
the thousands of slaves brought to Brazil
from ports in Africa. The legacy of that described in 15 chapters, two of
swathe of lush green Atlantic rainforest. transatlantic trade can be seen in Bahia’s
Country maps show the
Today, only a few pockets of the
rainforest remain along the coast in
cultural diversity. The state has Brazil’s
highest percentage of Afro-Brazilian which concentrate on Brazil’s major
isolated patches. Inland from the coast, residents. Bahia’s percussion-driven music, location and area of each
the Portuguese successfully established
the cultivation of sugar cane, and later
cotton and cocoa in the Recôncavo, a
the fast fight-dance known as capoeira,
and the spiritualist Yoruban Candomblé
religion all have their roots in Africa. region of Brazil. cities and 13 on the country’s main
narrow, flat, well-watered plain, which
they called the agreste.
Bahia played a key role in the history of
In addition to these legacies, visitors
to Bahia can experience one of Brazil’s
longest and most beautiful coastlines.
regions. The map on the inside front
Brazil. Salvador, its capital, was founded in Fine beach resorts such as Praia do Forte
cover shows this regional division.
1 Introduction
1549, and served for over two centuries as and Costa do Sauípe lie to the north of
the administrative and political center of Salvador. To the capital’s south, there are
colonial Brazil. The legacy of that period
is on display in Salvador’s colonial core,
Pelourinho, a jewel of colonial Baroque
small villages such as Morro de São Paulo
and Itacaré. Inland, Bahia provides unique
hiking amid the mesas and valleys of An overview of The most interesting places to visit
churches, cathedrals, and palaces. the Chapada Diamantina.
the history and are given on the Regional Map at

characteristics the beginning of each chapter.
of each region.
282 NORTHERN BRAZIL
Exploring Amazonas, Roraima,

Acre & Rondônia
A view of the Parque Nacional Marinho dos Abrolhos, comprising an archipelago of five islands
AMAZONAS, RORAIMA, ACRE & RONDÔNIA 283
2 Regional Map This

shows the main road
network and gives an
This region offers the ultimate rainforest experience. Most
The bright colors of Pelourinho’s Old Town
people travel here to explore the dense forests, picturesque
river islands, and tranquil waterways. The sights include
Manaus, the legendary capital city of Amazonas, which offers
illustrated overview of
much architectural and cultural interest. Also located in
the whole region. All

Monte Caburaí
4,777 ft (1,456 m)
Amazonas is the Mamirauá Reserve, Brazil’s first sustainable
Mataruca
development reserve. The secluded and beautiful mountains
C o tt i n ga
Normandia
of Roraima are worth a visit, as is Acre, with its natural beauty, Serra Merari
interesting places to
4,068 ft (1,240 m)
Se r r a Pa r i
history, and seringueiro (rubber-tapping) culture. Porto Velho, Spectacled caimans can be found
Ur Uraricoera
near Manaus ari Bonfim
the capital of Rondônia, overlooking the Amazon’s longest coer
a
tributary, the mighty Rio Madeira, is a lively place to visit. m BOA VISTA Serra Grande
visit are numbered and

a 3,773 ft (1,150 m)
Riverboat excursions on the Rio Madeira are a good way to
idle away a few hours and spot a few pink dolphins. Altamira
RORAIMA The Rio Branco snaking through Roraima
De Caracarai
m
Camarão in
Ca
i Nova Paraiso
there are useful tips on

tri
Marabitanas Ar
ma
aç
Pico da Neblina
er i
ni
a
9,888 ft (3,014 m) Catrimani ap

Uaruma Jau
Uaupés Castanheiro Calanaque
laú
Branco
Boiaçu
getting around.
Ala
iari
Pitinga
ieur Negr
Cur São João xi o Key
Ja
M ar i
é eiu
ta
Un
p
Major road
u
Novo Tucandera Moura

Julia Japu Represa
rá Marapi de Balbina Santa Maria Minor road
i
uin Presidente
Capana Estação Ecológica Pa Novo Airão International border
Figuerido
Mamiraua
Tauapeçaçu Urucara State border
P io
Tonantins Fonte Boa

Içá PARINTINS
aí
Peak
r in
Jut
MANAUS
i
Amazonas
Tefé Maloca
u
Am
Jur
São Paulo Amataurá azon Manacapuru

ra
de Olivença as Careiro
ei
Repartimento
ad
Coari
M
Boats anchored on the Rio Madeira outside Porto Velho Tabatinga

Caxias s Borba
i Itaboca ru
ar Pu Cantagalo
ba
Carauari Co Novo Aripuanã

tu
Jutaí
Story boxes explore some of

ia
Sights at a Glance Boa Vista

nd
Itatuba
Juta
Ja
Jaburu Manicoré
í
Itu
Su
Towns & Cities Santarém

cun
á
Cama
1 Manaus pp284–7 Rodrigues

Foz de Tapa
u
AMAZONAS
the region’s historical and cultural
Gregório
duri
Itamarati
2 Parintins
iú
u á uá
Jur Xir Lábrea Pirapetinga Apuí
3 Boa Vista
Mamoriá
4 Rio Branco Humaitá Sumaúma
5 Porto Velho Pucallpa
Cruzeiro Feijó Calama ri
subjects in detail.
A
do Sul Tarauacá pu
an Jacaretinga
ã
ACRE Floriano
Peixoto
Boca do Acre PORTO
VELHO Tabajara
co
Sena Madureira
Ia
Taumaturgo Caracol
Jírau
Progresso Ariquemes
RIO BRANCO
Ouro Preto Jarú
Guanabara d’Oeste
Getting Around Xapuri Ji-Paraná
Joining an organized tour with one of the companies in Manaus, Boa RO N D Ô N I A

Pimenta Bueno
Vista, Porto Velho, or Rio Branco is the best way to see the Amazon
Rolim de
jungle. Most companies offer accommodation in tourist lodges and Costa Marques Moura
travel by a combination of road and riverboat or canoe. For those 0 km 200 290 NORTHERN BRAZIL
Vilhena
who want to travel independently, it is possible to move around the
0 miles 200 Pimenteiras Cuiabá
jungle on local riverboats. Road travel is also possible from all cities. do Oeste
Manaus, for instance, is only 6 hours by bus from Novo Airão, on the
Rio Negro, where it is possible to bathe in jungle rivers and swim rainforest setting. Much of it is 2 Parintins
with pink dolphins. Visitors exploring the forest nearsurrounded
Manaus by narrow creeks, Amazonas. * 105,000.
hidden among forests full of g from Manaus. _ Festa do
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp378–9 and pp394–5 For keys to symbols
sloths, see backand
monkeys, flap colorful,
Boi Bumbá (Jun); Festa das Pastorinhas
noisy tropical birds. The river (Dec–Jan).
and lake offer the opportunity
to see both pink and gray river A large jungle town, Parintins
dolphins, as well as to go was originally the refuge of a
piranha fishing. Nearby, the community of indigenous
Lago Arara is great for fishing, riverine people, known as
and home to a pink dolphin caboclos, who were escaping
3 Detailed Information All Limpid blue sky mirrored in the clear waters of Lago Mamori feeding ground. The local Portuguese slave traders. Today,
people, known as caboclos, have Parintins is best known for its
} Lago Manaquiri the area. Nonetheless, fishing been here for generations and popular Festa do Boi Bumbá.
40 miles (64 km) SW of Manaus. remains the main activity, and live in scattered riverside The festival is celebrated in
the important towns and other ∑ visitamazonastour.com/site2/en there are many tour operators
A 5-hour boat ride from
Manaus, the backwater lake of
based in Manaus, offering
budget fishing packages.
communities, occasionally
coming together for celebra-
tions. They earn their living by
Cormorants and great egrets in the Mamirauá Reserve
O Instituto de expeditions in the lakes and

June, when the town gets so
packed that visitors often stay
on boats.
Manaquiri is best entered first It is always best to book your making farinha (manioc flour), Desenvolvimento trails in the forest. Though there is little else to
places to visit are dealt with via the Rio Solimões, then
upstream to a tributary that
leads to the lake. Its waters rise
trip through a travel company
registered with the Brazilian
Tourism Bureau (Embratur)
rearing cattle, and fishing. Visits
to the caboclo homes can be
organized by Gero’s Tours. Run
Sustentável Mamirauá
280 miles (450 km) W of Manaus.
∑ uakarilodge.com.br Programa de
The preserve also offers
comfortable and ecologically
sound accommodation at the
see, besides the well-preserved
colonial architecture, Parintins is
known for its rich indigenous
individually. They are listed in and fall with the seasons. (see p409). Some of the tour independently by English- Ecoturismo: Tel (97) 3343 4160. floating Uakari Lodge (see p378) culture, and the local handicrafts
Relatively isolated, the Lago agencies provide typical speaking Gero Mesquita, it can Located at the confluence of close to forest trails, pretty make unique souvenirs. The flea
Manaquiri is usually a good spot Amazon riverboats, which may book hotels, arrange transport, two rivers, the Rio Solimões jungle lakes, and caboclo markets sell everything from
for seeing waterbirds, including come fully equipped with and meticulously plan tours. and Rio Japurá, the Mamirauá communities. Book through a trinkets, lace, and bead-work to
order, following the numbering the great egret (Casmerodius

albus) and fish eagles. It is not
unusual to see caimans and
large Amazonian alligators on
kitchen, dining area, canopied
sundeck, bathroom, and
Farther upstream and deeper
into the forest from here, the Rio
shower. Fishing is best in the dry Juma region offers better access
season, which usually lasts from to wildlife, but requires
Sustainable Development
Reserve covers an area of
5703 sq miles (14,770 sq km).
Since 1990, when it was
Manaus tour company, or
directly with the Programa de
Ecoturismo in Tefé, 16 miles
(25 km) south.
masks and mahogany carvings.
During the dry season, boat
trips can be taken to nearby
lakes and river beaches.
given on the Regional Map. the sandy shore.

The lake provides sustenance
to the small fishing town of
August to December or January. expedition-type preparation
} Lago Mamori
and several days.
Nature Safaris, a tour
declared an ecological station,
the Mamirauá Reserve has been
one of Brazil’s most prized Festa do Boi Bumbá
Manaquiri. Local economy 60 miles (96 km) SE of Manaus. company based in Manaus, ecotourism spots.
Each entry also contains

The vibrant festival, Festa do Boi Bumbá, is centered around a
depends more on fishing than Gero’s Tours: Rua 10 de Julho 679, can arrange expeditions in Splendid and luxuriant, its ritualistic dance recounting the death and rebirth of a legendary
on tourism. In 1995 and 2005, Manaus. Tel (92) 9983 6273. Amazônia, offering short várzea (seasonally flooded) boi (ox). Originating on the 18th-century Northeast plantations, the
however, both were hit by the ∑ amazongero.com Nature Safaris: package tours, as well as longer vegetation offers plenty of festival arrived in Parintins almost 100 years ago with the Cid brothers
Rua Flavio Espiritu 1, Manaus. Tel (92)
practical information such

worst drought in over 40 years, safaris. It is possible to stay either opportunity for spotting from Maranhão. They brought with them the Bumba-meu-boi
when the lagoons evaporated, 3656 3357. ∑ naturesafaris.com.br in a floating lodge, or one of the abundant wildlife, including (see p47) musical influence, steeped in the vibrant rhythms of the
and thousands of dead fish lay Easily accessible by road and many jungle lodges along the endemic species such as the Northeast. The last few decades saw the festival gaining in prominence.
on the bed of the dried-up lake. boat from Manaus, the elongat- Rio Juma. Most of them offer white uakari monkey and black- Every June, at least 35,000 people crowd into Bumbódromo, a purpose-
as map references, addresses, The changed climatic condi- ed and breathtaking Lago jungle hikes, piranha fishing, headed squirrel monkey. The built stadium in the town center, to join in the revelries. The fantastic
tions continue to deplete fish in Mamori is located in a lush and caiman spotting at night. annual flood transforms the life procession incorporates dazzlingly dressed participants, including
of the whole region. During the mythological beasts. The rivalry between the two competing camps,
the red Garantido and the blue Caprichoso groups, is expressed in
high-water season, fish invade
telephone numbers, and

traditional songs. Over the years, this competitive spirit, which goes
the flooded forest and disperse
right down to who wears the most outlandish costume, has brought
seeds as they move about. More forth some radical and electrifying spectacles.
than 300 species of fish have
already been catalogued in the
opening times. reserve. Mamirauá is also home

to pink river dolphin, great egret,
and the rare scarlet macaw. The
Neotropic cormorant, whose
diet consists mainly of fish, can
be spotted swimming and
feeding in large, noisy flocks.
In the dry season, which lasts
from September to December,
one can walk on trails, or paddle
almost silently through them on
canoes. The preserve’s eco-
tourism program features a
range of activities, which Garantido in bright red headgear, gearing up for the contest
Caimans luxuriating on the sandy riverbank of Manaquiri, with a great egret in the foreground includes guided nature
194 NORTHEAST BRAZIL SALVADOR 195
. Main Altar
6 Igreja e Convento de São Francisco A statue of Jesus on the cross
with St. Francis by his side
The complex of the Church and Convent of St. Francis, which Practical Information
was constructed between 1708 and 1750, is one of Brazil’s
most impressive Baroque monuments. The convent’s church
graces the main altar. The blue-
and-white tiles behind the main
altar tell the life story of the
Largo Cruzeiro de São Francisco,
Praça Anchieta, Pelourinho.
Tel (71) 3322 6430.
Practical information at the beginning
stands out for its rich and opulent interior. The inner walls and saint. The gold-and-white motif
the ceiling are largely covered in gold leaf. The main altar and
the large side altars are magnificently carved out of wood and
is offset by dark jacaranda
wood hand railings.
Open 9am–5:30pm Mon–Sat,
10am–3pm Sun. & 8 7
Igreja Terceira Ordem de São
of each entry gives helpful information
Francisco: Rua Inácio Accioli.
in typical Baroque style, ornately decorated with angels, birds,
mermaids, fruits, and leaves. An enormous silver chandelier
hangs above intricate wooden carvings, and hand-painted
Open 8am–5pm daily. &
about visiting the sight or attraction.
blue-and-white Portuguese tiles.
. Franciscan Shield
Featuring the crossed forearms
of Jesus and St. Francis, the shield
represents the bond between
the two.
The Visitors’ Checklist provides a

Cloisters
These secluded interior arcades are where
summary of the practical information
the monks of St. Francis would gather for
prayer or quiet contemplation. you need to plan your visit.
São Pedro de Alcântara
The altar of São Pedro de
Alcântara, carved by Brazilian
artist Manuel Inácio da Costa,
is a particularly fine example
of Brazilian Baroque.
Stars indicate the best sights and
Black Saint, Saint
Benedict
Two of the side
important features.
altars are dedicated
to black saints such
as Santa Efigênia, an
Ethiopian princess,
and São Bento, the
son of African slaves.
Façade
The church façade dominates Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Francisco
the Largo de São Francisco with The ornately carved and
imposing twin bell towers. detailed sandstone façade of
the church of the Third Order
4 Brazil’s Top Sights These are

of St. Francis next door is the
only one of its kind in Brazil.
Oil Painting of . Azulejos The façade remained hidden
KEY St. Francis Brought over from for many years behind a layer
1 Doors and windows in bright
tones adorn the outer walls of
the church.
The oil painting
depicting an event in
the life of St. Francis in
the church entryway
Portugal in 1743,
the decorative tiles
are based on the
etchings by Flemish
of plaster, only to be
uncovered accidentally when
wiring was being installed in
the 1930s. The church also
given two or more full pages.
2 Detailing of pure gold leaf
decorates the church interior.
is one of the classic
examples of Brazilian
Baroque Illusionism.
painter Otto van
Veen in his book
of moral emblems.
has a museum and a room
of Franciscan tombs.
Soapstone exterior of
the church Buildings are dissected to show
their interiors.
INTRODUCING
BRAZIL
Discovering Brazil 10–15

Putting Brazil on the Map 16–19
A Portrait of Brazil 20–43
Brazil Through the Year 44–49
The History of Brazil 50–63
10 INTRODUCING BRAZIL
DISCOVERING BRAZIL
No visitor to Brazil should ever underestimate Amazon rainforest; Salvador, one of the
the size of the country or its largest cities. jewels of the country’s northeast coast;
Brazil is a place of continental dimensions and Rio de Janeiro itself. There is also the
that can comfortably house all of Europe – suggestion for a one-week coastal drive
with room to spare. Therefore, when we traveling from São Paulo, the country’s
suggest a two-week itinerary of popular business capital, to Rio de Janeiro, its leisure
Brazilian highlights, keep in mind that this and culture hub. Finally, there are two-day
is the same as trying to visit all of Europe itineraries for Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo,
over a two-week period, and that it will as well as Salvador. Time is tight on most
require air travel. Brazilian highlights of these itineraries, all of which are easy to
include the falls at Foz de Iguaçu; the extend and expand to the time available
Modernist Brazilian capital, Brasília; the so that you can learn more about this
world’s largest wetland, the Pantanal; the gigantic and diverse country.
Am az o n
Manaus
s
ajó
z on
p
Ta
Ama
A MAZONAS
RO N D Ô NIA
MATO
GROSSO
The large auditorium at the Teatro Amazonas in

Manaus, in the northwest of the country, still features 0 km 400
Cuiabá
its original and impressive belle époque decor. 0 miles 400
Pantanal
Two Weeks around Brazil MATO

GROSSO
DO SUL
•
Explore the Brazilian •
Visit the famous opera •
Walk on the sands of
and Argentinian sides of house in Manaus, in the some of the world’s
Foz do Iguaçu, where heart of the Amazon. most famous beaches,
a river is divided by 275 •
Discover the African including Copacabana
spectacular waterfalls. influences behind and Ipanema.
Foz do Iguaçu
•
Marvel at the Modernist Bahia’s cuisine, religion, •
Tour the legendary Parque Nacional
architecture and music, dance, dress, Maracanã stadium Iguazú
innovative urban and arts and crafts. in Rio de Janeiro, host
planning in the Brazilian •
Admire one of greatest to two soccer World
capital, Brasília. collections of colonial Cup finals, as well as
•
Get up close and architecture and the Olympics.
personal with the flora treasures in the world in •
Appreciate the diversity
and fauna that make Pelourinho, Salvador’s of this great country
up the Pantanal, the historic center. in terms of landscapes,
planet’s largest wetlands. •
Stand at the feet of Rio cuisine, culture, and
•
Travel along the de Janeiro’s iconic its people.
Amazon river and statue of Christ the
experience a night in Redeemer, on the
the Amazon rainforest. summit of Corcovado.
A painting in naive style by Calixto Sales, depicting a market scene in Maragojipe, Bahia
DISCOVERING BRAZIL 11
A Week on the Costa

Verde (Green Coast)
•
Experience one of the
world’s great coastal drives.
•
Discover Rio de Janeiro’s
most westerly suburb,
Barra da Tijuca, home
to the Olympic Village.
•
Enjoy the contrast between
the greenery of the Atlantic
rainforest and pristine
sandy beaches.
The Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) is one of the most
distinctive architectural landmarks in Brazil. Built in the 1960s, •
Stop off and enjoy a wide
it contains a prestigious collection of art from Europe and Brazil. variety of beaches along
the way.
Key •
Explore the enchanting
Pará Belém Two-week tour islands of Ilha Grande
and Ilhabela.
Costa Verde (Green
Coast) tour •
Wander the colonial-era
PA RÁ Fortaleza
streets of Paraty and soak
up the atmosphere of times
M A R AN HÃO
Xin
CEARÁ gone by.

gu
RI O G RA N D E
Enjoy the hospitality of some
s
•
D O N O R TE
tinn
of Brazil’s most charming

To c a
P I A UÍ PA RA Í BA and atmospheric small

Recife hotels, bars, and restaurants.
o PERN A M BU C O
Fr a n cisc
o
Sã ALAGOAS
T OC A N T IN S SERG I PE
BAHIA
Salvador
Brasília Atlantic
GOI Á S Ocean
M I NA S
G E R AI S
ná
ESPÍRITO
ra
S AN T O
Pa
S ÃO RIO DE This aerial view of Rio de Janeiro

PA U LO JA NE I R O
highlights some of the city’s most
Rio de appealing aspects: its verdant
Janeiro See Costa Verde mountains and its sandy coastline,
inset map below
PA R ANÁ
gently caressed by the ocean.
Costa Verde
SANTA
CATARI NA
Rio de
e
R IO Janeiro
ro
o
G RANDE Angra dos
do
os Re
Rei
eiiss
DO S UL
Barra da
Paraty
y Illh
Ilha
Ilh
lh Grande Tijuca
São Paulo Ubatuba
Camburi
São Sebastião
São Bernardo
Maresias Atlantic
do Campo Ilhabela
Ocean
Guarujá
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Two Days in is the Engenhão stadium, which summit. If your timing is right,
Rio de Janeiro has had its capacity increased you will be able to enjoy the
to host the 2016 Olympic and change in light as darkness
Rio de Janeiro is one of the Paralympic athletics program. envelops the city below. After
world’s most beautiful and dinner, enjoy some bossa nova
exciting cities, blessed by a Afternoon A short metro or or samba (p97), or return to Lapa.
backdrop of mountains, rain- taxi ride takes you from the
forest, beaches, and the sea. Maracanã stadium to the city’s To extend your trip…
historic center (pp74–9), an area Visit the historic mountain
•
Arriving Tom Jobim
that is packed with museums, town of Petrópolis (pp116–
International Airport is
galleries, cultural centers, and 19), or head to the Costa
located 12 miles (20 km)
historic churches. The city center do Sul and its highlight, the
from the city. If traveling from
is fairly compact and easy to town of Búzios (pp120–21).
São Paulo, you may land at
walk around, with plenty of Also within a comfortable
the Santos Dumont airfield.
options for a lunchtime break, drive are the historic towns
Both have bus and taxi links.
such as the Confeitaria of Minas Gerais (pp125–37).
•
Moving on Take a flight Colombo (p76). In the evening,
or a long-distance bus to see a show at the Theatro
explore Brazil. Alternatively, Municipal (p77) or Circo Voador
rent a car and follow the (p78), or enjoy the nightlife and
Two Days in São Paulo
coast to São Paulo (see p14). bohemian feel of Lapa (p97).
São Paulo is the business
Day 2 capital of Brazil and South
Day 1 Morning Take a leisurely walk America. The city spreads
Morning Start at the summit of along the beachfront of over a vast area, but many
Morro do Corcovado (pp86–7), Copacabana (p82), Ipanema of its attractions sit close
atop which stands the statue of (p83), or Leblon (p83), soaking together or in clusters.
Cristo Redentor (Christ the up the scenery and vibe. Swap •
Arriving Guarulhos Inter-
Redeemer; p86). From here, the sand for greenery, and head
national Airport is located
much of Rio is laid out before across to the Botanical Garden
17 miles (28 km) northeast
you. Take the cog train (p87) (p84). Nearby is the Lagoa
of the city. If coming from
from the station in Rua Cosme Rodrigo de Freitas (p84), where
Rio de Janeiro, you may land
Velho to the top. On the for lunch you can choose a lake-
at the smaller, more central
17-minute journey you will pass side kiosk or the more sophisti-
Congonhas in the southwest.
through parts of the Tijuca cated Lagoon center, with views
Forest (p87). Spend at least an across the Lagoa to Corcovado. •
Moving on To explore
hour at the summit. Back at the Brazil, take a flight or a long-
Rua Cosme Velho station, drop Afternoon Pass through distance bus. Alternatively,
in on the neighboring Museu Botafogo, home to a number rent a car and follow the
Internacional de Arte Naïf of museums, most notably the coast to Rio (see p14).
(International Naive Art Museum; Museu do Índio (p85), or stop
p87) before taking a taxi across off at the Rio Sul mall (pp94–5)
town for a tour of the Estádio do for some retail therapy. Mid- Day 1
Maracanã (p88), the stadium afternoon, explore Sugar Loaf Morning São Paulo’s historic
that hosted the 1950 and 2014 Mountain (pp80–81), one of center (pp142–6) is well worth a
World Cup finals and will host the the city’s iconic sights. Leave visit. After rush hour, head for
opening and closing ceremonies plenty of time to enjoy both Praça de Sé, a good location
of the 2016 Olympics. Close by Morro da Urca (p80) and the from which to visit many of the
area’s attractions, including the
Catedral Metropolitana (p142)
and the Pátio do Colégio (p142),
where São Paulo was founded.
Arrive at the Edifício Itália (p143)
for lunch. The view may be
better than the food, but you
won’t regret it. Edifício Banespa
(p143), a miniature version of the
Empire State Building, also offers
spectacular views across the city.
Afternoon Slightly north is

another cluster of historic
attractions, many located close
Cog train traveling through the Tijuca Forest on its way to Morro do Corcovado, Rio de Janeiro to Praça da Luz. These include
For practical information on traveling around Brazil’s cities, see pp426–7
Day 2
Morning Start the day in Nazaré,
at the Arena Fonte Nova, one of
the most admired stadiums of
the 2014 World Cup. The tours
start at 9am and take 1 hour and
15 minutes. Close by are the
Museu de Arte Sacra (p196), the
Museu de Arte Moderna (p196),
and the Solar do Unhão (p196), a
17th-century colonial sugar mill.
The complex’s atmospheric
View across the Parque do Ibirapuera, which features many museums and is an important restaurant, with its wonderful
green lung in the city of São Paulo views, is a great choice for lunch.
one of South America’s main Afternoon Visit and enjoy the

museums, the Pinacoteca do
Two Days in Salvador beaches of Salvador, which
Estado (pp144–5), as well as the stretch west along the Atlantic
Museu de Arte Sacra (p146) and Salvador, the first capital of coast (pp198–9). Start at the
the Victorian-styled Estação da Brazil, was also at the center most famous, Praia do Farol
Luz (p146). São Paulo’s nightlife is of the slave trade, which da Barra, which features a
highly rated, so in the evening makes it the most “African” lighthouse and the Forte de
catch a show or visit a club (p156). of all Brazilian cities. The Santo Antônio (p197), a city
continent’s influences can landmark in its own right.
Day 2 be found in everything from Nearby, Porto da Barra is a
Morning Head to the huge cuisine and arts to religion. popular beach from which to
Parque do Ibirapuera (pp150– watch the sunset. Try Praia de
•
Arriving The Deputado
51), which is home to a number Amaralina if you are interested
Luíz E. Magalhães
of important museums and in surfing or sailboarding.
International Airport is
galleries, including the Museu de
located 17 miles (28 km)
Arte Moderna (p151), the Museu To extend your trip…
to the north of the city.
Afro Brasil, and the Bienal Spend time exploring the
There are bus and taxi links.
Building. Drive along Avenida coast of Bahia. To the south
Paulista (p148) to understand •
Moving on To explore Brazil, are Ilha de Itaparica (p200)
why São Paulo is the financial take a flight from the airport. and Morro de São Paulo
capital of South America, then go (p202). The coast to the north
into the internationally acclaimed is known as the Linha Verde,
Museu de Arte de São Paulo Day 1 or Green Line (p211), and
(MASP) (p147). Next, head to Rua Morning The crown jewel of includes Praia do Forte and
Oscar Freire and Rua Bela Cintra, Salvador is the restored historic Costa do Sauípe. Or head
an area that offers plenty of center, Pelourinho (pp190–93), a inland to visit Lençóis (p208)
charming options for lunch. UNESCO World Heritage Site and the spectacular Parque
Browse the distinctive, top-end with colonial houses, Baroque Nacional de Chapada
boutiques around here. churches, and museums. Don’t Diamantina (pp208–9).
miss the church and convent of
Afternoon After lunch, go São Francisco (pp194–5). Spend
north to Praça Charles Miller, the entire morning walking in
named for the Englishman who and around Pelourinho, which
brought soccer to Brazil. Here is offers many charming and
the Estádio do Pacaembu, built atmospheric places for lunch.
in 1940 and used for the 1950
World Cup, and also the highly Afternoon Take the Elevador
celebrated Museu do Futebol Lacerda (p193), built in 1873,
(pp148–9). Options for the rest down to the lower city to visit
of the afternoon include a the Mercado Modelo (p196),
visit to the Instituto Butantã which houses a wide selection
(p152), one of the world’s most of northeastern arts and crafts.
important research centers Since the market is popular with
for venomous animals, or to visitors, you can expect to see
Liberdade (p149), the hub for a demonstration of capoeira
the city’s massive Japanese (p203). Bahia is famous for its
community. In the evening, cuisine, so find a restaurant
experience the city’s restaurants for dinner and experience the Christian cross in front of the church and
and nightlife. local dishes and delicacies. convent of São Francisco in Salvador
A Week on the Costa the landscape and nightlife, Days 5 and 6: Ilha Grande
Verde (Green Coast) and spend the night at one It is quite possible to drive
of the numerous pousadas. straight from Paraty to Rio de
Travel along a spectacular The island is especially lively Janeiro. However, if you have
coastline and explore historic at the weekend. time, stop at Angra dos Reis
towns, beautiful beaches, (p114), leave the car, and take
and pretty islands. Day 3: Ilhabela to Paraty the ferry over to Ilha Grande
Spend the morning exploring (p114), one of the largest of the
•
Airports Arrive and depart
Ilhabela, before taking the 365 islands to be found in the
from São Paulo and Rio
ferry back to the mainland bay. Spend at least two nights on
de Janeiro’s international
and following the coast east this beautiful, underdeveloped
(Guarulhos/Tom Jobim)
to Ubatuba (p168), a small island, and explore it on foot or
or domestic (Congonhas/
beach resort with a colonial by boat. You will need to take
Santos Dumont) airports.
center. This part of the coast cash, since there are no banks or
•
Transport This itinerary is offers nearly 60 miles (100 km) ATMs there, and no cars. Most of
best done by rental car. It is of beaches for you to discover, the main pousadas are a short
also possible to do most of all wrapped up in Atlantic distance from the ferry dock, at
the route by using the bus rainforest. Praia Grande, close to Vila do Abraão. There are nearly
services that link the towns. Ubatuba, is a popular location 100 miles (160 km) of trails that
•
Booking ahead It is best for lunch. Continue to the cover the entire island, so enjoy
to have all accommodation historic colonial town of Paraty a hike and visit ruins, waterfalls,
booked in advance, (pp110–11), much of which mountains, and beaches,
particularly on weekends. dates from the 18th century. including Lopes Mendes,
If you are sure of your En route, you will cross the one of the island’s – and
timings, you can also pre- state border between São Brazil’s – most beautiful. (You
book the ferries to Ilhabela Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, shortly will need to take a boat taxi.)
and Ilha Grande. after which the road will no
longer hug the coast. Paraty’s Day 7: Rio de Janeiro
•
Tips You can start this
picturesque historic center is From the ferry terminal in Angra
itinerary in Rio de Janeiro
where the majority of the dos Reis, take the coastal road,
and work back to São Paulo.
charming pousadas, bars, following the signs to Rio de
and restaurants are located. Janeiro (pp70–105) via Barra
da Tijuca (pp90–91). This is one
Day 1: São Paulo Day 4: Paraty of Rio’s most affluent suburbs.
Pick a day from the city itinerary Wander around Paraty’s If you have time, it is worth
on pp12–13. cobbled, pedestrian, sea- visiting a number of attractions
washed streets, popping into as you pass through Barra, such
Day 2: São Paulo to Ilhabela the beautifully restored colonial as Sitio Roberto Burle Marx
Plan to leave mid-morning, houses, museums, churches, and (p91) and Casa do Pontal (p91).
after the worst of the city’s art galleries, or take a relaxing Alternatively, head to Barra
rush hour is over. Head for the schooner ride around the many Shopping Center (p90) for
050 (SP-150), which will take islands (p112) close by. some retail therapy.
you south, to the coast, via São
Bernardo do Campo. As you To extend your trip… To extend your trip…
leave the city, the scenery Consider staying two nights Spend a couple of days
changes to a series of lakes in Paraty to fully soak up the exploring Rio de Janeiro. See
surrounded by hills. You will colonial atmosphere. the city itinerary on p12.
wind your way through them
before dropping down to
Guarujá (p169) – this descent
to the coast is spectacular.
Guarujá offers excellent options
for lunch on the beachfront.
Continue east along the coastal
road toward São Sebastião
(p168). You will pass many
beautiful beaches, such as
Camburi, Camburizinho, and
Maresias (p169). From São
Sebastião, take the 15-minute
ferry to Ilhabela (p169), an
island and yachting center
offering mountain scenery,
beaches, and waterfalls. Enjoy A beach in the small town of Trindade, near Paraty, on the Costa Verde
For practical information on traveling around Brazil’s cities, see pp426–7
Two Weeks at the Hotel das Cataratas, so

around Brazil you have access to the park. If
you can time your visit with a full
This itinerary offers a tour of moon, you may get the chance
many iconic Brazilian sights, to see a moonbow, or lunar
experiences, and highlights. rainbow – truly a memorable
experience. If you have spare
•
Airports Because of the
time on the second day, visit
distances involved, you will
nearby Itaipu Binacional (p346),
need to fly between the
one of the world’s largest
main cities and gateways
hydroelectric dams. Other
to be visited. Consider
options include Parque das
purchasing a Brazil Air Pass
Aves (p346), an impressive
before arriving in Brazil.
aviary full of exotic birds, or a
For more information
helicopter flight over the falls.
about domestic air travel,
see pp420–21.
Day 3: Brasília
•
Transport Taxis and public Take an early flight from Foz Visitors at Foz do Iguaçu, the largest
transport are available. In to the Brazilian capital, Brasília waterfalls in the world
most of the cities and loca- (pp306–9). This relatively small
tions, you will have the option and compact city has an array the Amazon. On arrival in
to join an organized tour. of attractions and can easily Manaus (pp284–5), use the
•
Booking ahead It is best be explored on foot or as part rest of the day to explore the
to book all city accommo- of an organized tour. Visit the city, the Teatro Amazonas
dations, Amazon lodges, TV Tower (p306) for a bird’s- (pp286–7), the Museu do
and the trips to the eye view of the city and to Índio (p285), the waterfront,
Pantanal in advance. appreciate its Modernist and the market (p284).
architecture and innovative
urban planning. Brasília was one Days 7 & 8: The Amazon
Day 1: Iguaçu Falls of the host cities of the 2014 Spend two days out in a remote
(Brazilian side) World Cup, and the National Amazon lodge. Take a cruise on
Start the tour in Foz do Iguaçu Stadium (Estádio Nacional de a traditional Amazon riverboat
(pp344–6). Visit the Brazilian Brasília Mané Garrincha) was to explore parts of the world’s
side of the falls first – there are built for the tournament. biggest rainforest (pp288–9).
more than 275 spreading over
2 miles (3 km). If you have time, Days 4 & 5: Pantanal Days 9 & 10: Salvador
take an exhilarating inflatable- Head to the Pantanal (pp324–5), Return to Manaus for the flight
boat trip to the mouth of the the planet’s largest wetland, to Salvador (pp188–99). Follow
falls (be prepared to get wet). which covers an area of 89,000 the city itinerary on p13.
There are many places to stay in sq miles (230,000 sq km). To
Foz. If your budget allows, stay reach the Pantanal, take a short Days 11–14: Rio de Janeiro
at the Hotel das Cataratas flight from Brasília to Cuiabá Fly to Rio de Janeiro (pp70–105).
Belmond (p381), the only hotel (p322), credited with being the You will need at least two or
that lies in the national park warmest city in Brazil. There is three full days to do any justice
next to the falls. It allows you to not a lot to see in Cuiabá, so you to Brazil’s most famous city.
visit and view the falls when the will be met at the airport and See the city itinerary on p12.
park is closed to everyone else. taken straight out to a lodge
or farm. All accommodations To extend your trip…
Day 2: Iguaçu Falls in the Pantanal offer guided This itinerary could comfort-
(Argentinian side) excursions to see the area’s ably be extended to three
Take an organized tour to the unique and rich ecosystem, weeks or more if you have
Argentinian Parque Nacional with special tours for birders, the time, since virtually all
Iguazú (p347); check in advance visitors keen on tracking the the cities included offer the
if you need a visa. The park offers Brazilian jaguar, horse riders, and option to explore other areas
many more walkways through those interested in the region’s of Brazil in more detail, be it
and along the falls than are to abundant fish life. It is much the south (pp328–63) from
be found on the Brazilian side. easier to spot Brazil’s fauna and Foz do Iguaçu; the central
The popular Devil’s Throat is the prolific birdlife in the Pantanal west (pp294–327) from
most impressive fall, so avoid the than in the more dense Brasília; the northeast coast
crowds by walking there first, vegetation of the Amazon. (pp176–259) from Salvador;
then working your way back or the historic towns of
to the park entrance. In the Day 6: Manaus Minas Gerais (pp124–137)
evening, visit the falls on the Return to Cuiabá for the flight from Rio de Janeiro.
Brazilian side again. Have dinner to Manaus, in the heart of
Putting Brazil on the Map

The largest country in South America, Brazil borders VENEZUELA GUYANA
most other South American countries and covers over
3.3 million sq miles (8.5 million sq km), from the vast tropical
Amazon region in the north to the cooler, more European-
style South. It is divided into 26 states and one federal RORAIMA
Boa Vista
district – its political and administrative capital,
Caracaraí
Brasília. Brazil’s population, now reaching
almost 200 million, is mostly concentrated Nora Paraíso
Catrimani
in the Southeast (see pp18–19). Uaupés
Equator Negro
COLOMBIA Maraã
ECUADOR Itacoatiara
Guayaquil
Manaus
Tefé A ma zon
Iquitos
Tabatinga
Loja Novo
s
Aripuana
ru
AMAZONAS
Pu
Piura Barra do
Tarapoto Lábrea São Manuel
Boco do Humaitá Conceição
Acre
Feijó
Trujillo Cruzeiro
Porto
Velho
B R A
do Sul
J uruena
Pucallpa ACRE Ariquemes
Rio Branco Ji-Paraná
PERU RONDÔNIA
PA C I F I C Costa Vilhena
Lima Marques
OCEAN
Puno
BO LIVIA
Nuestra Seňora
de La Paz
Cochabamba
Santa Cruzde
de La Sierra
Greater Brasília
PARAGUAY
Parque Nacional
de Brasília Sobradinho
Represa Tropic of Capricorn

Santa Maria
Antofagasta
Asuncion
CHILE
San Miguel de
Paranoá Tucuman
BRASÍLIA
Cruzeiro Lago
Taguatinga
Guará
Paranoa
ARGENTINA
Núcleo
Bandeirante Cordoba
Aeroporto Int. Pres

Recanto Juscelino Kubitschek
São Rosario
das Emas Mendoza
Sebastião
0 km 10
Santiago Buenos Aires
0 miles 10
For keys to symbols see back flap

PUTTING BRAZIL ON THE MAP 17
Central & South America Atlantic

NICARAGUA
Ocean
COSTA RICA
PANAMA VENEZUELA GUYANA
FRENCH
COLOMBIA
SURINAME GUIANA
FRENCH
ECUADOR
GUIANA
SURINAME
AT L A N T I C PERU BRAZIL
Asoenangka
AMAPÁ OCEAN BOLIVIA
PARAGUAY
Serra do CHILE
Navio Macapá
Equator See pp18–19
ARGENTINA
Porteira URUGUAY
n
rá
zo
Pa
a
Óbidos Am
do
Pa c i fi c
Belém
o
Monte Alegre Ocean

Ri
Parintins São
Santarém Luís
jó s
Ta p a
Itaituba Fortaleza
PARÁ Caxias
Imperatriz Timon Teresina Mossoró
Ilha Fernando
Marabá CEARÁ de Noronha
Araras
Juàzeiro Natal
MARANHÃO
do Norte
Araguaína
PARAÍBA João
PIAUÍ Pessoa
Z I L PERNAMBUCO Recife
Cachimbo Petrolina
Palmas Juàzeiro
Alta Peixoto de Paulo
Floresta Azevedo Afonso Maceió
TOCANTINS
Sinop Barreiras Feira de Aracaju
Jacaré
Santana Alagoinhas
MATO BAHI A Salvador
GROSSO GOIÁS Jequié
Vitória da
Cuiabá Conquista
Ceilândia Ilhéus
Brasília
Várzea Rondonópolis Anápolis Gama
Grande Montes
Goiánia MINAS Claros
Rio GERAIS Teófilo
MATO GROSSO Verde Uberlândia Otôni
DO SUL Belo
ESPÍRITO AT L A N T I C
Campo Uberaba Horizonte SANTO
Grande São José do Ipatinga OCEAN
Rio Preto Vitória
Ribeirão
Preto Juiz Vila Velha
Araçatuba de Fora
Dourados Campos dos Goitacazes
SÃO PAULO
Ponta Porã Campinas São Gonçalo
Maringá Londrina
Rio de Tropic of Caprico
São Santos Janeiro rn
Cascavel PARANÁ Paulo
Foz do Guarapuava Curitiba

Iguaçu Joinville
SANTA
CATARINA
Passo Fundo Florianópolis
Lajes
RIO GRANDE Criciúma Key

Caxias do Sul
DO SUL Highway
Urugu- Porto Alegre
aiana Major road
Bagé Minor road
Pelotas
Rio Grande 0 km 400 Railroad
URUGUAY 0 miles 400 International border

State border
Itumbiara Barragem de
Southeastern Brazil Araguari

Emborcação
Patrocínio
The densely populated southeastern part of Brazil Uberlândia
Represa
Ituiutaba
contains the country’s two biggest cities. A dynamic, Nova Ponte
sprawling business center, São Paulo has more than Araxá

10 million inhabitants in the city proper. Beautiful
Rio de Janeiro, with its legendary beaches, is home Uberaba
to around 7 million people. With a well-developed Parque Nacional da
Planura Serra da Canastra
infrastructure and economy, this region has a stunning
Franca
Atlantic coastline and a wealth of historic towns. São José do Barretos
Rio Preto
Ti e t São Sebastião
é do Paraíso
Bebedouro
MATO GROSSO Andradina Catanduva Ribeirão
Araçatuba Jaboticabal
DO SUL Valparaíso Birigüi Preto
Panorama Taquaritinga
Porto
Alegre Bataguaçu Presidente SÃO Lins
Araraquara
Aroeira Epitácio PAULO Piraçununga
Rio
Brilhante Presidente Jaú
Iv
Prudente
in
Teodoro
he
Bauru Rio Claro

ima
Ivinheima ná Sampaio Pa r a Limeira

n a p a n e ma
ra
São Piracicaba
Pa
Nova Londrina Porecatu Assis Manuel

Campinas
Loanda Ourinhos Botucatu
Avaré Jundiaí
Paranavaí Cornélio
Londrina Procópio
Porto
Camargo Maringá Arapongas Sorocaba
Apucarana
B R A Z I L Buri
Ti b a
Umuarama
i Itapeva
g
va Capão Bonito
I
Cianorte
í
Goio-Erê Telêmaco Itararé Juquiá

Guaíra
PARANÁ Borba Eldorado Peruíbe
Piraí do
Sul
Castro Iguape
Toledo Pitanga
Cascavel Ponta Grossa Cananéia
Prudentópolis Campo
Largo Ilha de Superagüi
Curitiba
Ilha do Mel
Represa Guarapuava Irati çu Paranaguá
ua
Salto Osório Ig
Foz do Iguaçu São José
Chopimzinho dos Pinhais Baía de Guaratuba
Guaratuba
União da
Pato Vitória São Francisco do Sul
Branco
Jaraguá Joinville
ARGENTINA Campo
Erê Caçador
do Sul
Xanxerê Blumenau Itajaí
SANTA
Chapecó Concórdia CATARINA Rio do Sul Brusque Porto Belo
Baía de Tijucas
Uruguai
Rio s Florianópolis
Campo Erechim das C a n ı a São José
Ilha de Santa
Santa Novo Lages Catarina
Rosa Palmeira Palhoça
das Missões
Antonio
Santa Prado
Barbara Passo Fundo Imbituba
Santo do Sul
Angelo Laguna
Vacaria Tubarão
RIO GRANDE Criciúma
Cruz Alta
DO SUL Flores da Cunha
Barragem Bento Gonçalves
Passo Real Caxias do Sul
Tupanciretã
Garibaldi
Gramado Torres
Lajeado
Jaguari Santa Novo Hamburgo
Maria Santa Cruz
do Sul
Jacuí Canoas
Cachoeira Viamão
do Sul Porto Alegre

PUTTING BRAZIL ON THE MAP 19
Itaúnas
Patos Governador Conceição da
de Minas Represa de Valadares Barra
TrÍs Marias Curvelo
ESPÍRITO
Ve l h a
Canastra
Coronel
SANTO
s
Sete
Lagoas Fabriciano Ipatinga
Pará de Itabira Linhares
Colatina
Minas
Belo Horizonte Caratinga
da
Aracruz
Nova Lima
Serra
ra
Itaúna
Divinópolis
r
Se Vitória
Manhuaçu Vila Velha
Formiga Nariana
Passos Conselheiro
Campo Lafaiete Cachoeiro de Guarapari
Viçosa Itapemirim
MINAS Belo Tiradentes
Barbacena Muriaé Itapemirim
Lavras
GERAIS São João
Ubá
Itaperuna
del Rei
Alfenas Varginha Campos dos
Gr
São João da Barra

ande
Três Corações Goitacaze

Juiz
Poços de Fora RIO DE Santo Amaro
de Caldas Três Rios JANEIRO de Campos
Volta Teresópolis
Pouso Itajubá Redonda Petrópolis Macaé
Itapira Alegre
Cruzeiro Nova São Gonçalo
Lorena Iguaçu
Cabo Frio
São José dos Rio de Niterói
Campos Ilha Janeiro
Parati Grande Key
Jacareí
São Paulo Highway
Santo André
Ilhabela Major road
Santos
Railroad
São Vicente
Itanhaém International border
State border
ATLANTIC
OCEAN
Rio de Janeiro Mileage chart

326
525 Vitória
276 327 Belo Horizonte
444 526 10 = Distance in miles
10 = Distance in kilometers
720 776 460
1160 1250 741 Brasília
1307 750 864 476

1669 1207 1391 1542 Salvador
1464 1174 1289 1381 523
2357 1890 2075 2223 842 Recife
1537 1247 1363 1452 586 78
2474 2007 2195 2338 944 125 João Pessoa
1763 1491 1590 1422 872 496 427

2838 2400 2559 2290 1403 799 688 Fortaleza
1898 1626 1724 1342 1006 995 1015 665

3055 2618 2776 2161 1620 1601 1635 1070 São Luís
2016 1904 1748 1326 1284 1270 1298 949 499 Belém
3246 3065 2814 2134 2068 2044 2090 1527 803
2164 2229 1906 1610 2568 2995 3068 3108 2692 2756 Porto Velho
3483 3588 3068 2592 4133 4821 4938 5002 4333 4436
716 1042 811 1048 1670 2098 2171 2422 2248 2274 2153 Florianópolis
1153 1678 1306 1687 2689 3377 3494 3858 3618 3661 3466
533 859 628 865 1487 1915 1987 2213 2051 2039 1964 192 Curitiba
858 1383 1011 1392 2394 3082 3199 3563 3302 3282 3161 310
0 km 100 266 595 364 630 1232 1642 1732 1953 1861 1843 1949 432 253 São Paulo
429 958 586 1015 1983 2643 2788 3144 2996 2967 3137 695 408
0 miles 100
A PORTRAIT OF BRAZIL 21
A PORTRAIT OF BRAZIL
Brazil evokes iconic images of lively Carnaval celebrations, brilliant soccer
teams, bossa nova and samba performances, sensual Brazilians swaying across
the sands of Ipanema and Copacabana, and the beautiful city of Rio de Janeiro.
Beyond these popular images, however, there remains a lot to discover about
Brazil, which is fast emerging as a global economic giant.
Covering over half of South America, 190 million Brazilians, although there are
Brazil is the world’s fifth-largest nation. many commonly used words derived
The sheer size of the country helps from indigenous and African languages.
to explain the extraordinary diversity The country’s striking diversity is
of environments and cultures. The larger reflected in the major cities, each
cities are known for cosmopolitan of which has its own distinctive
sophistication and extensive character. The impressive Modernist
technological development, while architecture of the nation’s capital Brasília,
in the Amazon region there are indi- the ravishing cityscape of Rio de Janeiro,
genous peoples who still use ancient embraced by the gigantic statue of
agricultural techniques. Cristo Redentor (Christ the Redeemer),
The Portuguese colonization that the colonial buildings and Baroque
began in the 1500s, combined with gems of Minas Gerais, the historic
the influx of immigrants from a wide cities of the Northeast, and the
geographical and ethnic spectrum, has picturesque European-influenced,
lent an eclectic character to the social wine-producing towns in Southern
fabric of the country. Portuguese is Brazil, are just a few examples of this
spoken by the vast majority of the remarkable heterogeneity.
An aerial view of high-rise concrete towers in the ultra-modern city of São Paulo
Carnival parade of samba dancers at the Sambódromo, held in Rio de Janeiro
(shantytowns) coexist with

skyscrapers in the cities. The
foundations for modern economic
prosperity were laid, ironically,
during the years of the military
dictatorship from 1964 to 1984,
when Brazil’s rulers borrowed
heavily from international banks
to fund various large projects.
However, it was only during the
administration of Fernando
Caiman and butterflies in the splendid Amazonian greenery Henrique Cardoso (1995–2002)
that Brazil’s economy became
The diverse character of Brazil is reflected more market-orientated, a trend that
in its five distinct ecosystems – the was carried forward by his successor,
Amazon rainforest, the semi-arid sertão, Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva – “Lula.”
the central cerrado (savanna), the wildlife- Today, Brazil’s major exports feature
rich Pantanal wetlands, and the lush Mata both manufactured goods, including
Atlântica. The varied natural attractions of machinery and automobiles, and
the country include the spectacular falls at agricultural products, such as soya beans
Foz do Iguaçu, captivating Amazônia, the and coffee. In recent years, Brazil has
splendid beaches of Rio de Janeiro and emerged as an economic powerhouse
the Northeast, the luxuriant grasslands and a strong advocate of opening up
of Rio Grande do Sul, the pristine-white global trade to developing nations. Its
sand dunes of Lençóis Maranhenses, and vision of exploring new energy production
the abundant, breathtaking flora and methods is manifested by Petrobras,
fauna of the Pantanal. Brazil’s largest oil-producing company.
Run by the state, Petrobras is a pioneer in
The Economy the development of advanced technology
The Brazilian economy is counted from deep-water oil production.
among the world’s 10 largest, though it Alongside Brazil’s growing global signifi-
is riddled with contradictions – favelas cance, there still remain deep economic
The verdant countryside near Bento Gonçalves, a wine-producing town in the Serra Gaúcha, Rio Grande do Sul
Petrobras (Petróleo Brasileiro), Brazil’s state-run gas and oil refinery, near Rio de Janeiro
disparities and regional differences. It is When the leftist, ex-trade union leader
common to see the super-rich and the Lula was elected president in 2002,
urban poor in Brazil’s major cities, mainly Brazilians hoped for a democracy that
Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, two of favored the “majority of society,” as
the largest metropolises in the world. promised in his Workers’ Party (Partido
Inequitous growth is also visible not only dos Trabalhadores – PT) manifesto,
in the undeveloped interiors, but also but Brazil’s underprivileged majority
in the agriculture-dominated southern continued to be ruled by a wealthy
region where there is a rising number minority. In 2011, Dilma Rousseff, also
of landless peasants. of the PT, was inaugurated as the
country’s first female president.
Political Life Brazilians, for the most part, are united
Politicians have tremendous power in in their distrust and lack of respect for
Brazil, and many start and make their their politicians and political parties.
way up through municipal and
state politics. Some political
positions outside of the capital
are extremely powerful in their
own right, especially that of
mayor of one of the big cities,
or governor of a state.
Since 1985, when the military
dictatorship came to an end,
Brazil has been one of the world’s
largest democracies. However,
the country’s current political
elite have immersed Brazil in
a series of scandals, involving
corruption, misuse of public
funds, and abuse of power. Supporters waving flags of Lula during his 2002 electoral campaign
the dominant Portuguese. Their

influence is still visible in its culture
and its people. The millions of slaves
brought to Brazil from West Africa,
between the 16th and 19th centuries,
have also played an important role in the
development of Brazil as a country and as
a vibrant culture. Between the 18th and
19th centuries, the influx of immigrants
from Europe, especially Italy and Germany,
and also from Japan and Korea, have
played their part in forming the
multicultural and ethnically diverse
population of Brazil.
Although Brazil has reputedly the
world’s largest Catholic population, its
unique mix of people has given rise to
many different religions and sects. The
animistic beliefs of the indigenous
Brazilians, ritualistic Afro-Brazilian cults,
The Congresso Nacional at dusk, Brasília and spiritualist Kardecism, coexist with
other faiths including Judaism, Islam,
The average educated Brazilian resents and Buddhism. Candomblé, a syncretic
the perceived close alliance between cult practiced in Bahia, is a unique
the politicians and their ambitious amalgamation of Catholicism and
business allies. African beliefs.
Brazil upholds the ideal of racial
The People harmony. However, though not blatant,
Home to over half the population of racial discrimination does still exist.
South America, Brazil is the fifth most As well as having limited access to
populous country in the world. The education and work opportunities, black
vast majority of people live in the coastal people remain inadequately represented
parts and major cities, and the population in the higher echelons of politics,
density grows progressively scantier academia, and business.
toward the interior. Brazil has such
a varied mix of races, nationalities,
and ethnic groups that it is
difficult to define a typical Brazilian.
It is often argued that being
Brazilian is more a state of mind
than anything else.
The Portuguese, the first
Europeans to explore Brazil,
were followed by other colonial
powers laying claim to areas
along the Brazilian coast.
However brief the influence of
the French and the Dutch, and
later the British, they all made
their mark on Brazil, along with Baianas in front of the Convento de São Francisco, Salvador
Residents of Rio de Janeiro (Cariocas) playing soccer on Enseada de Botafogo
Sport & Culture Amado and Paulo Coelho, have helped

Brazil’s sporting and cultural influence has spread the word about their homeland.
made the “Brasil” brand known throughout The music of Brazil, be it samba, bossa
the world. Brazil is the world’s greatest nova, or one of the many other musical
soccer (futebol) nation, having won the styles to be found across the country, has
World Cup on five been a powerful calling card since the
occasions and having 1960s. In more recent times, talented
been the only nation filmmakers have gone on to produce
to play at every World critically acclaimed works, including
Cup. Pelé (see p172), Walter Salles with Central do Brasil (Central
hailed as a great Station, 1998) and Fernando Meirelles
national hero, is the with Cidade de Deus (City of God, 2002).
most famous soccer Brazilians celebrate life with their colorful
player of all time. festivals. Carnaval, the cultural event that
Brazil’s sporting helped put Brazil on the map, is perceived
Ayrton Senna, winner prowess has not been as the biggest and best in the world, and
of the Monaco Grand Prix restricted to soccer. In its revelry embraces the whole country.
in 1992
Ayrton Senna, Nelson
Piquet, and Emerson Fittipaldi, it has had
three Formula 1 World Champions, and
in tennis it saw success in the 1950s and
1960s with Maria Esther Bueno and, more
recently, with Gustavo Kuerten.
Culture has also played its part in
establishing how the world views Brazil.
The first musicians to make a mark
internationally were composer Heitor Villa-
Lobos and legendary performer Carmen
Miranda. In literature too, writers as A group of musicians rehearsing Brazil’s country music sertanejo,
different in their subject matter as Jorge in Cidade de Goiás
The Landscapes of Brazil Key

The Amazon rainforest
Larger than the US (excluding Alaska) and bordering
The Pantanal
10 of the 12 other South American countries, Brazil is
home to a wide variety of breathtaking landscapes, The sertão
from vast swamps to desert, and thick rainforest to The cerrado
metropolitan cityscapes. Covering over 2 million sq Mata Atlântica
miles (3.5 million sq km) and embracing over 40 percent International border
of Brazilian territory, the Amazon rainforest is the most Peak

dominant landscape in Brazil and the best known.
Although massive and spectacular, the Amazon Basin
The Northern Highlands in
is only one biome out of several in Brazil, each with its
Amazônia are impressive mount-
own distinct scenery, fascinating wildlife, and climate. ains, strung along the frontier with
Venezuela and Guyana.
co
Bran
Píco da Nehlina
9,888 ft (3,013 m)
Tiquié
Negro
Japurá
Am
azonas
í
ta
Ju
á
ru
Ju
s
u ru
P
ra
ei
Tapajós
The Amazon rainforest (see pp264–5), one of the most ad
M
complex ecosystems in the world, is characterized by vast
expanses of dense forest, with a wide range of vegetation.
Large areas, such as the buriti palm-dominated igapós, are
annually flooded by the waters of the Rio Negro.
The Pantanal (see pp324–5), an immense

wetland, is the largest seasonally flooded area
on the planet, inundating as much as two-
thirds of its total area for half the year, during
the rainy season. Dotted with small, forested
elevations, the southern Pantanal is used for
cattle grazing during the dry season.
The Wet and the Dry Season

During the wet season, which lasts from
December to March, the rising rivers
inundate the flat land. This process
creates cordilhieras (isolated islands)
amid vast lakes and flowering shrubs.
However, it is during the dry season
(May to September), that wildlife is at
its most spectacular in the Pantanal.
During this time, the ponds teem
with fish, and thousands of birds flock The Pantanal in the wet season, The Pantanal with tiny forests in the
around the water holes. near Porto Jofre dry season
The sertão (see p237) is a semi-arid

region in the interior of Brazil’s northeast
and parts of northern Minas Gerais. The
essentially barren landscape, dominated
by caatinga, is a uniquely Brazilian
habitat. The sertão receives very little
rainfall during the dry months, and is
largely strewn with cacti and thorny
shrubs. There are periods of intense
drought, which makes it a harsh
environment for wildlife and people
alike. As a result, much of the flora
and fauna have specially adapted
themselves to the lack of water.
0 kilometers 500
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The cerrado (see pp300–1) features wide

expanses of open, tropical grassland scattered
a
aib with small, closed canopy forests. Brazil’s central

an
Par
ju
de
plateau is the world’s most biologically rich

ca
an
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savanna with over 10,000 plant species.

Gr
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Ma
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de
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Lagos dos
Patos
Mata Atlântica (see p113), or the
Atlantic rainforest, is a 4,600-mile
(7,400-km) coastal band
endowed with a stunning
diversity of landscapes, from the
granite peaks and sheer cliffs of
the Great Escarpment to the
beautiful white sands and surf of
the Costa do Sol.
Brazil’s Flora & Fauna

Home to over 55,000 plant species and three of the most div-
erse ecosystems on the planet, the wealth of flora and fauna
in Brazil is unmatched. Some of the most valuable resources
of the modern world, such as rubber, originate from the
rainforests of the Amazon. As a result of the relative stability
of the rainforest compared to temperate areas, the fauna
here has had the freedom to evolve and to adapt to very
specialized local conditions. With a few of the tributaries of
the Amazon river still unexplored, there are numerous species
yet to be discovered. Brazil has five principal ecosystems,
each with its own distinct array of plant life. From forest and Aquatic plants, including the
swamp to desert and savanna, these stark contrasts in climate versatile water hyacinth, are
and landscape have resulted in an immensely vibrant and commonly found in the Pantanal,
diverse flora, much of which is unique to the country. which has the richest collection
of these plants.
Amazônia The Sertão

The Amazon rainforest (see p264–5) possesses The arid sertão (see p237), which comprises 75
a wealth of flora and fauna. It is characterized percent of the land area in the northeast, has
by vast expanses of dense forest, extensive its own unique wildlife including lizards, snakes,
savannas, and other ecosystems. Vegetation and foxes. Birdlife manages to flourish in this
and wildlife vary because of the annual flooding minimalist, unfriendly landscape, and sheep
of large areas. and goats are also reared.
Juazeiro, a shrub-
Blue and gold macaws are like tree indigenous
brilliantly colored large birds to the sertão, is used
that live on cliffs and high in wine-making and
in trees in rainforests and medicine, as a hair
swamps. They are considered tonic, and for timber.
an endangered species.
Mandacaru cactus is
Aguapé is an invasive a symbol of rebirth and
floating plant with resilience in the arid
medicinal properties. sertão. According to local
Found in the wetlands legend, this tree-like
of the Pantanal and cactus with fragrant
Amazônia, it acts as blossoms originates on
a natural water filter. the site of a massacre.
The Cerrado
The cerrado (see p300–1) is a vast open savanna dotted
with clusters of scattered woodlands. This is the world’s
most biologically rich grassland. There are over 4,000
endemic plant species. The cerrado is also home to
maned wolves and giant anteaters.
Giant anteaters are commonly spotted in

The mutum, or crested Pequi, also known as souari the cerrado. These solitary animals have a
currasow, is a large bird nut, provides sweet berries long tail and tongue, a bristly brown coat,
which is often seen in with small thorns inside. It is and five short, sharp claws on both their
the forested areas of eaten fresh, used in food, and paws. They are sometimes hunted for
the cerrado. made into a liqueur. their meat.
The Mata Atlântica The Pantanal

The Mata Atlântica (see p113), or Atlantic The largest inland wetland (see pp324–5) on the
rainforest, is formed by remnants of Brazil’s planet is constantly abuzz with bird- and wildlife.
coastal rainforest. The development of cities and Hundreds of birds can be heard screeching
intensive agriculture has severely reduced this overhead or fishing in the waters while caimans
habitat, but it remains home to monkeys and bask along the river banks. The best time to visit
exotic birds. is the dry season.
The piaçava is The anaconda is a large
a fibrous palm water boa, which can grow to
tree. Its fibers are 32 ft (10 m) in length. It kills
extensively used to its prey, sometimes many
make brooms, thatch, times its size, by constriction
mats, and cord. as well as drowning.
Woolly spider The gravatá is a

monkeys are the member of the
largest primates Bromeliaceae family.
in the Americas. Gravatá (also known
This endangered as karatas) is a kind
species eats of fruit, similar to a
mainly fruits, pineapple, that grows
leaves, and seeds. on the ground.
Peoples of Brazil
When the Portuguese arrived in 1500, the Brazilian
population consisted of over 5 million indigenous people
divided into at least 1,000 communities. When their
numbers began depleting due to the severity of slavery,
the Portuguese started shipping slaves from Africa in the
mid-16th century. Many of these slaves assimilated with
the white and local population. Over the centuries, Brazil’s
peoples were diversified further by several waves of Indigenous Brazilians
immigration from the Middle East, Asia, and Europe. After also include the Ticuna
over 500 years of immigration and integration, modern community, who are a large
group with their own language
Brazil is a true ethnic mosaic, where diverse elements and written literature.
combine to create a vibrant nation renowned for its spirit.
Some indigenous groups (see pp266–7) continue to

live as they had done before the arrival of the Portuguese,
particularly in the forested interior.
Multiracial Brazil
Brazil is unique in its assimilation of various races and ethnic
groups. A white-and-indigenous Brazilian is called a mestiço,
an Afro-Brazilian is called a cafuzo, while a mulatto is born
of white and African parentage.
European immigrants (see pp332–3) started moving

to Brazil after slavery ended in 1888. They tended to The Portuguese, the dominant ethnic
concentrate in various parts of Southern Brazil, where group in Brazil today, introduced
people of Azorean, German, Italian, Slav, Dutch, Catholicism (see p38), and have given
Austrian, and other descents still thrive. the country its official language.
Mulattoes, born of black and white

parentage, make up at least half the popu-
lation. Prominent in music, sports, and the
arts, famous Brazilian mulattoes include
pop music icon Gilberto Gil (see p36) and
professional soccer player Ronaldo. Baianas are recognizable in their lace dresses with
colorful beads that represent the various orixás, or
Afro-Brazilian deities (see p181). Baianas play an integral
role in keeping alive the Afro-Brazilian traditions that
came to Brazil, especially in the slave ships from
Angola and Nigeria.
Japanese Brazilians (see p173) are mainly descended

from immigrants who came to Brazil around 1908 as
laborers. There are numerous Buddhist and Shinto
shrines around Brazil, and the Japanese influence can
be seen in the art scene and in the popularity of its
cuisine. São Paulo City’s Liberdade district is home to
the largest Japanese community outside of Japan.
Cariocas & Paulistanos

Residents of Brazil’s two largest cities,
Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, have
successfully stereotyped themselves
and each other. The fun-loving
Cariocas of Rio are seen as too easy-
going by the Paulistanos of São
Paulo, whom the Cariocas regard
as workaholics with no zest for life.
Paulistanos see their city as the
economic force driving Brazil, while
Rio is considered to be a playground
for Carnaval (see pp68–9). The self-
Cariocas frolicking on Copacabana beach, Rio City image of Cariocas is that they have
better music and more beautiful
people. The Paulistanos, on the other hand, take pride in their diligent nature and the distinct cadence
of their spoken Portuguese. The key difference really revolves around beach life. Rio’s long stretch of
trendy beaches forms a vital part of the city’s daily life (see pp42–3). The beaches around São Paulo, on
the other hand, demand the weekend to enjoy, being at least 40 miles (65 km) away from the city.
Architecture
The first buildings in Brazil were made by the indigenous
peoples. As these structures were made from perishable
materials, little is known of them beyond early European
descriptions. Colonial churches and other buildings were
in spectacular form in the 18th century during the Baroque
era. After independence, Brazil followed European trends
until Lúcio Costa and Oscar Niemeyer developed Brazilian
Modernism, most strikingly expressed in the new capital
Brasília. Today, Brazil is dominated by high-rises punctuated
by the occasional striking building by a contemporary
Avenida Atlântica at Copacabana beach,
architect such as Ruy Ohtake. Rio de Janeiro
Indigenous Dyed tree bark

Francisco de Orellana (1511–46), the first Open entrance
European to navigate the Amazon, described Sloping
large cities created by Curucirari people thatched
extending for as much as 6 miles (10 km) and roof
cut by large roads. These large cities no longer
exist. Today, traditional indigenous villages are Kayapó malocas, or ocas, are communal
smaller and focus on a large communal maloca. longhouses, usually measuring 92 ft (28 m) in length
Less traditional ones are made up of wattle- and 59 ft (18 m) in width. Their shape and design
and-daub houses. influenced many of Oscar Niemeyer’s buildings.
Baroque
Baroque architecture began in 17th-century
Europe but reached its most exuberant in Latin Elaborately
America. Brazilian Baroque is characterized by carved stone
elaborately carved, painted interiors and ornate, tablet
florid forms set in modest, whitewash-and-raw-
stone façades. The style found its zenith in
Salvador and Recife, and in the sculptures The
of Aleijadinho (see p135) in Minas Gerais. monumental
door, offset by
the modest
façade
São Francisco de Assis, in Salvador,

is a display of wealth and splendor. São Pedro dos Clérigos, in
The interior of the church is covered Recife, is rich in ornamental
with almost 900 lb (450 kg) of gold. flourishes typical of the
Silver, gold leaf, and solid gold are Baroque. Its second tower was
coupled with stunning azulejos, that left incomplete in order to
is blue Portuguese tile work. avoid a tax on churches.
Neo-Classical Frieze in
Typical Palladian
Neo-Classicism is associated with portico bas-relief
Imperial Brazil and came to the style
country with the Portuguese
monarchy who fled Napoleon in 1807,
bringing the most fashionable
European architectural ideas with
them. The first Neo-Classical buildings
were civic edifices in Rio de Janeiro Ionic The Museu Imperial, in Petrópolis, marked the
and palaces in Petrópolis. These column advent of the most popular form of Neo-
quickly became the norm for buildings Classicism. Its architect, Julius Köhler, was
of state in the rest of the Empire. influenced by the English Palladian style.
Eclectic Teatro Amazonas’s façade is rich

Eclecticism is an architectural style with forms, motifs, and details
associated with 19th-century Mock- selected from different
Republican Brazil. Like the styles Byzantine historical periods and
decorative architectural styles.
that preceded it, it was strongly
influenced by European trends, cupola
particularly French and English.
Neo-Classical
Eclecticism is characterized by
frieze
a combination of forms, motifs,
and styles from Neo-Classical and Windows
Baroque through to Manueline, fusing the
a style that fuses together in one Palladian style
building Portuguese Late Gothic with Brazilian
with ornamentation in portals, Baroque
windows, and arcades, along with
Oriental elements.
Modernist Le Corbusier canopy style

Modernism was shaped by architects such as Le
Corbusier and Max Bill. Brazilian architects at first
adhered to the strict precepts these Europeans
laid down, but from the 1940s, architects such
as Oscar Niemeyer developed a unique form of
Brazilian Modernism, influenced by indigenous
design and employing curved forms.
Brise-soleil
façade
The Ministry of Education, built
in Rio in 1943 with a striking glass
brise-soleil façade, was the first
Parliament buildings, in Brasília, are a harmony of Modernist building in the Americas
simple lines and curves incorporating water and to combine civic architecture with
the landscape into the design. a contemporary medium.
Contemporary Brazil Open-air Skye Bar Glass set windows

Beyond Brasília and Oscar
Niemeyer’s continued output in
Rio and Curitiba, contemporary
Brazilian architecture is largely
functional and not particularly
inspiring. Cities are seas of
identical tower-block flats broken
by snaking highways. The most
daring designs tend to be private
homes hidden away behind high
walls or corporate buildings such
as Ruy Ohtake’s stunning Hotel
Unique (see p373) and Hotel
Unique Garden in São Paulo.
Concrete Pillars
Hotel Unique is a combination of bravado and functionalism.
supporting the hotel
Built by Ruy Ohtake, a leading figure in contemporary Brazilian
Landscaped Garden architecture, the inverted arc has 3-ft- (1-m-) wide windows
overlooking a stunning garden. The open-air rooftop bar has a
spectacular view over the city.
Brazilian Artists & Writers

Brazil’s first artists and writers were religious, and a tradition pastoral idylls of the Dutch
of uniquely Brazilian ecclesiastical art continued into the artist Frans Post (1612–80)
20th century. Secular art in Brazil ceased to derive from and the formal portraits of the
Frenchman Jean-Baptiste
Europe only in the 1920s after the emergence of the Debret (1768–1848).
antropofagismo movement, which appropriated western The first painting to make
themes into specifically Brazilian contexts. Brazil’s writers use of Brazil’s rich tropical light
found a voice in the work of 19th-century writers such as was Caipira Picando Fumo by
Joaquim Maria Machado de Assis and Euclides da Cunha. José Ferraz de Almeida Júnior
The explosion of Modernism in the early 20th century has (1850–99). However, a truly
Brazilian style emerged only in
left Brazil with a diverse literary output which remains the 1920s with antropofagismo,
largely unexplored by English-language publishers. a movement propagating
“cultural cannibalism,” which
adapts ideas from European
art and literature and reworks
them in Brazilian terms.
Tarsila do Amaral (1886–1973)
produced the movement’s
most representative paintings,
and was followed by Lasar
Segall (1891–1957) and
Anita Malfatti (1896–1964).
Other artists pursued
Modernism according to
their own ideas. Emiliano Di
Cavalcanti (1897–1976) turned
Ceiling painted by Dom Adelbert Gresnicht, Mosteiro São Bento, São Paulo to the masses for inspiration,
producing impressionistic,
in Rio, and José Joaquim da erotic icons of black Brazilian
Church Art Veiga Valle (1806–74) in Goiás. women. Candido Portinari
Brazil’s first great artists were In the 19th and 20th centuries, (1903–62), with a far more
European priests. Frei illusionism was largely lost but obvious social conscience,
Domingos da Conceição for the work of Benedito Calixto produced O Mestiço that
(1643–1718) was responsible (1853–1927) in Santos and showed the dignity of
for the interiors of the São São Paulo, and the Dutch artist Brazilian workers, while his
Bento monasteries in Rio and Adelbert Gresnicht, who painted Os Retirantes portrayed their
Olinda. Father Agostinho de the Beuronese interior of São misery. The sculptor Victor
Piedade (1580–1661) and Paulo’s Mosteiro São Bento. Brecheret (1894–1955) offered
18th-century Francisco Xavier a Brazilian take on Art Deco,
Brito, whose works can be while Alfredo Volpi (1896–
found in Rio de Janeiro and Secular Art 1988) brought Brazilian colors
Minas Gerais, introduced the Brazil’s first secular art was to abstract impressionism.
Baroque style, developing it European in theme and São Paulo’s large ethnic
as uniquely Brazilian. technique, best seen in the Japanese community
Brito almost certainly taught continues to produce artists,
the great artist, Aleijadinho such as Tomie Ohtake (b.1913),
(see p135), whose statuary who pay Brazilian homage
mocks the racist Portuguese to the styles and techniques
colonists, most notably at the of Japan.
basilica in Congonhas and the Brazil’s contemporary art
Igreja São Francisco in Ouro scene is lively and diverse.
Preto. The latter also preserves Most prominently, the works
the finest paintings by another of photographer Sebastião
subtle satiricist, Mestre (Manuel Salgado (b.1944) are rooted
da Costa) Athayde (1762–1830). in the ideas of Liberation
Illusionism in religious art was Theology (see p38). Artist Siron
developed by José Joaquim da Franco (b.1947) uses naive,
Rocha (1737–1807) in Salvador, Alfredo Volpi, painter known for his surreal forms to highlight social
Mestre Valentim (1750–1813) signature Brazilian palette and environmental issues.
century. After independence

Colonial Literature in 1889, Machado de Assis’s
European Jesuits are credited social criticisms were taken
with the earliest writing to a step further by a generation
come out of Brazil. José of Republican novelists, influ-
Anchieta (1534–97) chronicled enced by scientific and nascent
his work and described the socialist ideas from Europe.
evangelization of the In Triste fim de Policarpo
indigenous people. The Quaresma, the black novelist,
sermons of Antônio Vieira Afonso Lima Barreto (1881–
(1608–97) are fine examples 1922), was openly critical of the
of Portuguese prose. corruption that characterized
Gregório de Matos (1623– the Republic. Euclides da
96), who was born in Bahia, is Cunha’s Os Sertões chronicled
sometimes cited as Brazil’s first a gory and disastrous military
celebrated homegrown literary campaign against a messianic
figure. During the 18th century, rebel, Antônio Conselheiro (see Grande Sertão exhibition, Museum of
poetry academies in Minas p210), and his bandit followers Portuguese Language, São Paulo
Gerais were producing writers in the harsh landscape of the
such as Cláudio Manuel da Bahian sertão. a seminal figure in the
Costa (1729–89), José Basílio contemporary Brazilian music
da Gama (1740–95), and Tomás scene, was the first to plough
Antônio Gonzaga (1744–1810). Modernism in Literature the furrow between music and
They introduced revolutionary Modernism proper began in literature by writing the lyrics
French ideas to Brazil and Brazil with Mário and Oswald of many famous songs. He has
wrote lyric and epic poems on de Andrade, who sought to since been followed by song-
Brazilian themes, but in a lofty articulate contemporary and writer Chico Buarque (b.1944),
European classical style. uniquely Brazilian styles and who wrote the novel Budapest.
themes. Mário (1893–1945) Since 2000, writers from
traveled throughout the coun- Brazil’s manifold ethnic
try, searching for a unifying communities have risen to
traditional culture which he prominence. In Relato de um
enunciated in his comic rhap- Certo Oriente, Milton Hatoum
sody Macunaíma. Oswald (b.1952) probes the psyche
(1890–1953), together with of an Arab immigrant, while
his wife Tarsila do Amaral, Moacyr Scliar (b.1937) explores
formulated the ideas behind the Jewish-Brazilian experience
the antropofagismo cultural in his writings.
movement. The de Andrades Today, Brazilian fiction
cleared the way for the accounts for about half the
Modernist poets Carlos literary output of Latin
Drummond (1902–87) and America. Writers include Paulo
Legendary mulatto writer, Joaquim Maria Manuel Bandeira (1886–1968), Coelho (b.1947), feminist
Machado de Assis and the greatest of all Brazilian novelist and short-story writer
writers, João Guimarães Rosa Lygia Fagundes Telles (b.1923),
(1908–67), whose grand and Amazonian poet Aníbal
The Empire & the metaphysical novel, Grande Beça (b.1946).
Republic Sertão: Veredas, invented a new
Brazil began to find its own syntax based on the isolated
voice in the last days of the idioms of the interior of
Empire with the great Minas Gerais.
19th-century mulatto novelist, A string of writers, including
Joaquim Maria Machado de Gilberto Freyre (1900–87),
Assis (1839–1908). Starting out Sérgio Buarque de Holanda
with traditional sentimental (1902–82), and Darcy Ribeiro
romances, he later became (1922–97), emerged from the
celebrated for his darkly social sciences. The 20th
humorous novels with their century also produced major
subversive social criticism. Dom popular novelists, including
Casmurro is considered by Jorge Amado (1902–2001) and
some to be the greatest Latin Clarice Lispector (1920–77). Leading 20th-century novelist,
American novel of the 19th Vinícius de Moraes (1913–80), Clarice Lispector
The Music of Brazil

The vibrant music of Brazil reflects the diversity of the cultural
and ethnic backgrounds that make up the country’s resident
population. The music mirrors the influences of both the native
and immigrant population. The rhythms of Africa are as
important to the overall sound as the harmonies and melodies
that were introduced from Europe. Brazil is not about one
musical style, but a varied selection. Internationally, samba and
bossa nova are the best known of the country’s musical styles,
but regional forms, such as frevo (see p221), axé, forró (see
Heitor Villa-Lobos, one of Brazil’s
p240), and sertanejo (see p237), are just as popular within Brazil.
greatest classical composers
Samba
Derived from Angolan religious
rhythms, samba has permeated
virtually every other Brazilian musical
form that followed it. Historically
strong in Rio, São Paulo, and Bahia,
samba made a remarkable impact
throughout the country in the 1930s.
Samba comes in many forms, and
most of these have a link to dance.
Zeca Pagodinho, who
emerged in the late
1980s, is one of the most
popular and best-selling
artists of a new wave of
samba stars.
Gilberto Gil went from

Clara Nunes was one of the most political exile to Brazilian
superstar before
prolific and popular samba singers becoming Minister of
of all time. Her career was tragically Culture in 2003. He
cut short when she died at the age remains an active
of 39 in 1983. musical force.
Bossa nova
Bossa nova, a marriage of Brazilian rhythms and American jazz, has
been the most exportable form of Brazilian music since international
audiences first discovered it through an album, Getz/Gilberto, recorded
by Stan Getz and João Gilberto in 1964. The album included a number
of compositions from a young and unknown composer from Rio,
Antônio Carlos (“Tom”) Jobim. Gilberto, Jobim, and Jobim’s lyricist,
Vinícius de Moraes, were to become the “Holy Trinity” of bossa nova.
Sergio Mendes and

his group, Brasil ’66,
Antônio Carlos Jobim was helped launch bossa
responsible for many of the nova globally in the
bossa nova classics including 1960s. They have rec-
“The Girl From Ipanema,” one orded with acts such
of the most played and as Black Eyed Peas,
recorded songs in popular Erykah Badu, and
music history. Justin Timberlake.
Bebel Gilberto
has been the most
internationally
successful Brazilian
artist in recent years.
Her 2009 album All
in One was her third
to be nominated
for a Grammy.
Caetano Veloso helped launch Chico Buarque is a

the tropicalismo movement in composer, lyricist, per former,
1967, and is considered a Brazilian and author. He is as popular
musical treasure.
today as when he first
performed in 1964.
Tropicalismo & Música Popular Brasileira
Tropicalismo was a form of Brazilian music that arose in the late
1960s from a mix of bossa nova, rock and roll, Bahia folk, and
African music. Many tropicalismo artists, led by Caetano Veloso
and Gilberto Gil, were driven by political activism following the
coup of 1964. Inspired in part by tropicalismo, música popular
Brasileira (MPB), or popular Brazilian music, includes many
Brazilian musical styles and is the most popular music played
on the radio and in the clubs and bars of Brazil.
Daniela Mercury burst

on to Bahia’s axé and
reggae music scene in
the 1990s. Her explosive
live performances have
won her a growing inter-
national following.
Regional Music
Although MPB covers a multitude of
Brazilian musical genres, there are a
number of distinctive regional styles
that include axé, choro, forró, frevo,
and pagode. Bahia, one of the
powerhouses of regional Brazilian
Carlinhos Brown, a prolific music, has its own versions of jazz,
performer, composer, drummer, reggae, hip-hop, soul, funk, rock and
and dancer, is equally popular as a roll, heavy metal, electronica, and the
solo artist or when collaborating popular homegrown country and
with others. western style known as sertanejo.
The São Paulo Scene

The residents of São Paulo work hard, but they have
also learnt to play hard so that the city’s club scene
is now considered one of the world’s most exciting
and innovative, with top international DJs flying in
to exchange ideas and sounds with their Brazilian
counterparts. Break beat, drum and bass, electronica,
house, lounge, speed, garage, techno, trance, and
trip-hop all have a place in the Paulista scene. With a
huge range of nightclubs and bars to choose from,
Paulistanos can enjoy all genres of music through the
week and all year round. DJ playing in a São Paulo club
Religions of Brazil
Few countries in the world can match Brazil for religious people, or the slaves from
diversity. A typical São Paulo or Rio neighborhood will be Africa who replaced them.
home to Catholic and Evangelical Protestant churches, Churches were divided along
strict social and racial lines.
Buddhist temples, synagogues, mosques, Spiritist churches,
The poorest churches were
Afro-Brazilian ceremonial centers, as well as a range of reserved for Afro-Brazilian
smaller religious institutions. The practice of black magic slaves and were often
is not uncommon, even in business and politics, and dedicated to the black
soothsayers and witches hand out leaflets on the streets. Madonna, Nossa Senhora
Only atheists are largely absent in Brazil; those who do Rosário dos Pretos.
Latin American churches
believe in nothing are looked upon with a mixture of were instrumental in in-
incredulity and pity. fluencing Pope John XXIII and
Pope Paul VI’s groundbreaking
Church reforms of the mid-
1960s, known as Vatican II, and
promoting a more egalitarian
Catholic Church throughout
the world. Vatican II led to the
most important movement in
the Catholic Church in the 20th
century, Liberation Theology.
Churches in Brazil today
are largely apolitical and
gregarious, and are increasingly
influenced by Evangelical
preaching and musical styles.
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos in São Paulo
oppressed. One of these

Catholicism factions was the Jesuits who,
Catholicism arrived with the while treating the indigenous
Portuguese, and Catholics people as objects of pro-
remain Brazil’s dominant selytization, nonetheless
religious group. Brazil has the fought doggedly against their
largest number of Catholics enslavement and murder by
of any country in the world. the bandeirantes and the
From its earliest days, the settlers on the Amazon. The
Church in Brazil, as in most Jesuits began to be seen as
colonies, was divided into an a threat to the Portuguese Evangelical Protestants at Igreja Universal
establishment linked to the Crown and were expelled do Reino, São Paulo
Crown (and later to the from the colonies in 1757.
Emperor and the Republican The Church establishment
State) and factions who in Brazil did little to criticize the Evangelical
campaigned on behalf of the treatment of the indigenous Protestantism
The Evangelical movement
emphasizes the Protestant
Liberation Theology beliefs in the authority of the
In the 1970s, groups of Latin American Bible and of every person’s
Catholic thinkers preached what they right to interpret the Scriptures
called “a preferential option for the poor.” for themselves. Services are
In Brazil they were led by Leonardo Boff, emotive, with pastors making
Hélder Câmara, and Pedro Casaldaliga. use of fiery language, and
They campaigned against the rich often strongly encouraging
establishment and the dictatorships. Many their congregation to donate a
of the priests involved were murdered or dízima (usually 10 percent of
Leonardo Boff presiding tortured and the movement was any monthly salary) to the
over a service suppressed by the established Church. Church. The movement has
been widely criticized.
Nonetheless, Evangelicalism is Consciousness are also popular

very popular in Brazil, so much in Brazil, though often as
so that populist politicians alternative lifestyle options.
often campaign as Evangelicals
in elections.
Afro-Brazilian Religions
West African religions came
Spiritism to Brazil with slaves and
Developed by the developed into cults, such as
Frenchman Allan Kardec, Candomblé (see p181), Batuque,
Spiritism is a systematization and Umbanda. Worship
of divergent 19th-century involves the invocation of
occult practices dealing with orixás – spirits who intervene Al Iman Ali Ibn Abi Taleb mosque
communication with the spirits between humans and Olorun, in Curitiba
of the dead. Kardec called the supreme creator. The
Spiritism “a science which deals Brazilian government legalized
with the nature, origin, and their practice in the mid-19th Islam
destiny of Spirits, as well as century, but followers of these Brazil has the largest Islamic
their relationship with the religions have been persecuted community in Latin America,
corporeal world.” Brazil has the by the Church. but Islamic fundamentalism
largest number of Kardecian is almost unknown. The
Spiritists of any country in community is private, con-
the world. Indigenous Religions servative, and is generally more
Brazil is home to hundreds of concerned with preserving
different indigenous belief links to Lebanese and Syrian
systems. These can all be culture and the Arabic
loosely banded together as language than it is with
shamanism, which is not so proselytizing. The community
much a religion as a distinct has produced numerous
way of understanding reality. prolific writers and politicians.
Rather than believing that we
are made of material, indi-
genous peoples believe that Judaism
Chagdud Khadro Ling temple in Tres material, time, and space itself Brazil’s Jewish community
Coroâs, Rio Grande do Sul are mere manifestations of has about 150,000 members,
a far deeper reality. Spiritual most of whom are con-
life is organized in harmony centrated in São Paulo (which
Buddhism & Other with this inner state by a has the largest Ashkenazi
Asian Religions shaman. A number of popular synagogue on the continent),
The largest population of religious movements have Recife, and Rio de Janeiro.
ethnic Japanese in Latin grown up in Brazil from Many are descended from
America and immigrants indigenous roots. The most the Jews who fled Europe in
from many other East Asian widely practiced is Santo the 1930s. The community is
countries live in Brazil. Daime, which makes use of active in political and cultural
Consequently, there are large Amazonian psychotropic life. The writer Moacyr Scliar is
communities of Nichiren plants to achieve a state of one of the country’s successful
Daishonin Mahayana Buddhists super-consciousness. literary exports.
in the country. Their beliefs are
based on the teachings of a
13th-century Japanese monk
who stressed the need to
elevate one’s state of life from
being trapped within the limits
of desires and instincts. The
method for achieving this is
through strong ethical practice
and the chanting of the Nam-
Myoho-Renge-Kyo mantra.
The movement has proved
especially successful at
bridging Brazil’s trenchant
class divide. Yoga and Krishna Santo Daime followers in Visconde de Mauá, Rio de Janeiro
Soccer in Brazil
In the first half of the 20th century, soccer went from being
the private sport of Brazil’s white European elite to becoming
the greatest symbol of nationhood. The game united all
sections of the population and, after the national team’s first
World Cup victory in 1958, brought about unprecedented
In a favela, the main leisure
national pride. The Brazilian way of playing futebol – with
activity for children is always
more emphasis on attacking, dribbling, and acrobatic ball soccer. Rough terrain helps them
skills – has become a benchmark for excellence, and is also develop trademark ball skills
known as jogo bonito, or “the beautiful game.” such as the dribble.
Charles Miller is the father

of Brazilian soccer. In 1894,
returning to the country
after attending boarding
school in Southampton, UK,
he brought two footballs, a
pump, and a rule book. The
first reported game took
place a few months later.
The 1938 national

soccer team received
a joyous welcome on
their return home
from France. Brazil,
which came third
after defeating
Czechoslovakia, had
also won the hearts
of the Europeans.
The 1950 World Cup was

hosted in Brazil. In the final
game, favorites Brazil only
needed a draw against The National Side
Uruguay to win the tourna-
ment. However, they lost 2–1
With their iconic yellow shirts, the
in front of a record 200,000 Brazilian national team, known as the
crowd, causing the greatest Seleção, or Selection, is the most
moment of collective sport- glamorous soccer team in the world.
ing tragedy in the country’s It is the only team to have taken part in
history. The 7–1 defeat to every World Cup and have won it more
Germany in the 2014 semi- times than anyone – in 1958, 1962, 1970,
finals comes a close second. 1994, and 2002.
Brazilian Greats
Brazil has produced more soccer legends than any
other country and also the greatest player of all time:
Pelé (see p172). The first great player was Artur
Friedenreich in the 1910s. Each generation reveals new
stars and the soccer factory shows no signs of stop-
ping. Since the inauguration of FIFA’s (Fédération Inter- Leônidas da Silva, also Garrincha, the “Little
nationale de Football Association) World Player of the called “Rubber Man” for Bird,” was born with
Year award in 1991, only Brazil has won it with more his elasticity, was the bent legs and is con-
than one player: Romário (1994), Ronaldo (1996, 1997, highest scorer in the sidered to be the finest
2002), Rivaldo (1999), and Ronaldinho (2004, 2005). 1938 World Cup. dribbler of all time.
Major Teams & Stadia

There are several hundred professional clubs in
Brazil. The number is impossible to calculate,
since local leagues are constantly changing and
teams shutting down and starting up. Brazil’s
best-known stadia are the Maracanã (see p88) in
Rio, which was built for the 1950 World Cup, and
the Morumbi in São Paulo.
The Dream Team of 1970 is considered the best
soccer team of all time. Their 4–1 victory against
Italy won them the World Cup for the third time.
Estádio do Maracanã in Rio de Janeiro, one of the largest

soccer stadia in the world
Brazil’s Biggest Clubs & Stadia
Sociedade Esportiva Palmeiras (1914)
Stadium: Allianz Parque, São Paulo
Capacity: 43,600
Cruzeiro Esporte Clube (1921)
Stadium: Mineirão, Belo Horizonte,
Minas Gerais
Capacity: 58,170
Clube de Regatas do Flamengo (1895)
Stadium: Gávea/Maracanã, Rio de Janeiro
Capacity: 4,000 (Gávea)/78,838 (Maracanã)
Fluminense Football Club (1902)
Stadium: Maracanã, Rio de Janeiro
Capacity: 78,838
Grêmio Foot-Ball Porto Alegrense (1903)
Stadium: Arena do Grêmio
Capacity: 55,538
São Paulo Futebol Clube (1930)
Stadium: Morumbi, São Paulo
Capacity: 72,000
Sport Club Corinthians Paulista (1910)
The torcidas, or soccer Stadium: Parque São Jorge/Pacaembu,
fans, have adapted São Paulo.
aspects of Carnaval to Capacity: 18,386 (P. São Jorge)/40,199
futebol, playing lively (Pacaembu)
music at stadia,
Club de Regatas Vasco da Gama (1898)
dressing up in team Stadium: São Januãrio, Rio de Janeiro.
colors, and bringing Capacity: 25,000
noisemakers, colorful
banners, and flags.
Pelé was a World Cup Sócrates, the 1982 Romário, the Ronaldo, with two
champion at 17, and and 1986 World Cup “Baixinho” (Shorty), was World Cup winner’s
scored a record- captain, was famous for the star player in the medals, broke the
breaking 1,283 goals in his back heels and his 1994 World Cup, won competition’s goal-
1,367 games. political beliefs. by Brazil. scoring record in 2006.
Brazilian Beach Culture

The beach represents a big playground for Brazilians.
People living near Brazil’s extensive coastline go to the
beach daily to socialize and to eat and drink, while
vacationers can spend all day near the sand and warm
water. Brazilian music plays nonstop at the local beach
stalls and, as dusk falls, beachgoers party long into the
night. It is a Brazilian tradition to play soccer, beach
volleyball, and footvolley, or go for a walk or bike ride along
the beach or promenades. At some resorts, visitors can rent
a horse or a beach buggy, or practice surfing, kayaking,
Surfer at Praia Joaquina, Ilha de
paragliding, and skibunda (sandboarding). Santa Catarina
Urban Beaches are popular for their promenades

and cycle lanes, where people go to exercise before
or after work. Some beaches offer good facilities
with bathrooms, showers, and gym equipment,
and are illuminated at night for playing sports such
as soccer and footvolley.
Colorful Food
Stalls selling
coalho cheese,
corn-on-the-cob,
peanuts, and
shrimp sticks line
the beaches.
Popular local
drinks include Brazil’s Beaches can vary from calm bays to
fresh coconut unspoiled, wild beaches accessed only by tracks
water, cold beer, through the forest. There are also exclusive resort
and caipirinha. beaches with aquatic parks and modern facilities.
Beach sports are very popular. Besides soccer and volleyball, people
play frescobol (a kind of tennis). Some beaches also offer paragliding
and delta-wings during holidays.
Umbrellas in bright
colors are rented for
a small amount or
lent by the food
Watersports, such as surfing,
stalls to their patrons.
windsurfing, kayaking, scuba
diving, and snorkeling, are
The canga, a popular throughout the year.
Brazilian sarong, is All equipment can be easily
worn to and from rented at the beach.
the beach, and also
used as a towel
to lie on.
Beach safety is monitored

by lifeguards on buggies
during holidays and at
weekends. Flags offer
advice on currents and
deep water. Asking locals
may be useful if there is
no patrol.
Locals on the Beach

Relaxed and spontaneous by nature, Brazilians carry
only the bare essentials with them to be free to walk,
swim, play, or just lie on a canga to tan and watch
the world go by.
Beach fashion
for women
popularly
features tiny
bikinis that
ensure the
smallest tan
line. The men,
on the other
hand, can be
seen wearing Beach parties, or luaus (moon parties), are kept
swimming alive all night by typical Brazilian dance music
trunks under such as forró (see p240) or axé. Electronic music
informal shorts. and live concerts are also played at these parties.
BRAZIL THROUGH
THE YEAR
Brazilians are a fun-loving people. In this festivals related to Catholicism and a
unique land of diverse ethnic groups and combination of syncretic traditions. The
races, there is a colorful and vibrant climate varies, but on average it stays
culture, which is celebrated in the warm, making it favorable to outdoor
numerous parties, carnivals, festivals, celebrations. The seasons are not so
rallies, and parades held through the year, perceptible, except in Southern and
but particularly in summer. The most Southeastern Brazil where temperatures
significant events include the spectacular are moderate in autumn and spring and
Carnaval and a series of popular religious dip sharply in winter.
October
Spring São Paulo International Film
As flowers begin to decorate Festival (2nd fortnight), São
the landscape, Brazil prepares Paulo. Lasting two weeks, the
to display its wealth of spring festival screens around 350
flowers and gears up for critically acclaimed films from
festivities that last through the more than 50 countries.
season. The most remarkable São Paulo Art Biennial (Oct–
spring celebrations are related Dec, even years), São Paulo.
to the Catholic religion, but The Parque do Ibirapuera is
the highly charged Brazilian the site of an amazing display
Grand Prix also generates of modern visual art.
great excitement. Círio de Nazaré (2nd Sun), Paying homage at Padre Cícero’s towering
Belém. Our Lady of Nazareth statue, Juazeiro do Norte
September procession follows the Romaria
Expoflora (Sep weekends), fluvial pilgrimage a day earlier. November
Holambra (São Paulo state). More Oktoberfest (mid-Oct), Padre Cícero Pilgrimage
than 1,000 species of flora are for Blumenau (Santa Catarina). (Nov 2), Juazeiro do Norte
sale. Dutch folk dances, music, A lively street party, second only (Paraíba). On Dia de Finados
and Dutch and Brazilian food are to Munich’s, celebrates German (All Souls’ Day), thousands of
also featured, emphasizing the music, beer, and way of life. pilgrims visit patron saint Padre
town’s Dutch character. Brazilian Formula 1 Grand Prix Cícero’s statue and the church
International Fishing Festival (late Oct), São Paulo. Organized where he is buried.
(2nd fortnight, but sometimes at Interlagos Circuit, the race is National Handicraft Fair (late
held in June), Cáceres (Mato usually the final round of the Nov/early Dec), Belo Horizonte.
Grosso). Listed by the Guinness Formula 1 season. A major exhibition and sale of
World Records as the biggest Recifolia (last week), Recife. handicrafts from all over Brazil.
fishing tournament in the world, A lively carnival with crowds There are interactive work-
the angling event attracts more dancing the whole week to shops where many of the
than 1,500 competitors. Bahian bands. crafts can be learnt.
Smoke rising from the wheels of a Ferrari competing in the Brazilian Grand Prix, São Paulo
BRAZIL THROUGH THE YEAR 45
Festas dos Ticumbi & Alardo

(Jan 19 & 20), Itaúnas. People
in colorful clothes pay
homage to São Bento and
São Sebastião to the strains
of traditional music.
Pré Cajú (end Jan), Aracaju.
One of the dozens of micaretas
(out-of-season Carnaval)
before the real Carnaval in
February/March.
Festa de São Lázaro (last Sun),
Salvador. A festival in honor of
Candomblé deity Omolu, the
God of Plague.
A spectacular display of Reveillon fireworks on Copacabana beach February

Pescadores do Rio Vermelho
January (Feb 2), Salvador. A procession
Summer Processão dos Navegantes of boats carrying offerings to
Summer is the most important (Jan 1), Angra dos Reis. A samba Yemanjá, the Goddess of the
time of the year for Brazilians. It school percussion group parade Sea, accompanied by Afro-
marks the beginning of the year across the Baia de Ilha Grande Brazilian music.
and vacation time. It rains in boats of different shapes Nossa Senhora dos
heavily in most parts, but the and sizes. Navegantes (Feb 2), Porto
sun continues to shine through. Processão do Bom Jesus Alegre. A boat procession on
Besides a number of outdoor dos Navegantes (Jan 1), the Rio Guaíba carrying the
events to mark the advent of Salvador. Hundreds of fishing image of Yemanjá.
summer, there are trade fairs boats follow a galliot, a long Carnaval (Feb/Mar, about
and important religious festivals. ship, that carries the image of 40 days before Easter). The most
The culmination of the summer Our Lord of Navigators. famous Carnaval takes place
is Carnaval. Lavagem do Bonfim (2nd Thu), in the city of Rio de Janeiro.
Salvador. A colorful parade and Salvador and Olinda also have
December ceremonial washing (lavagem) fantastic celebrations.
Festa Santa Bárbara (Dec 4), of the steps of the Igreja de Festa Nacional da Uva
Salvador. A popular three-day Nossa Senhora do Bonfim. (Feb/Mar, biennial, even years),
Candomblé ceremony at Fest Verão Paraíba (early–mid- Caxias do Sul. Wine production
Fonte de Santa Bárbara. The Jan), João Pessoa. Taking place is the highlight of this festival
image of Santa Bárbara, called over three weeks, this is one that keeps alive the customs
Yansã in Candomblé, is carried of the country’s largest music and traditions of the early
through the streets of the festivals, with big Brazilian acts. Italian immigrants.
historic center.
Carnatal (early Dec), Natal.
Out-of-season Carnaval,
where famous bands test their
repertoire for the next Carnaval,
with throngs of people
singing and dancing through
the streets.
São Silvestre Race (Dec 31),
São Paulo. Amateur and
recreational runners join
professional athletes for a
9-mile (15-km) race through
the streets of São Paulo.
Reveillon at Copacabana
(Dec 31), Rio de Janeiro.
A New Year’s Eve party along
Copacabana beach with
performances by leading pop
stars and a lavish midnight
fireworks display at Forte
de Copacabana and Windsor
Atlântica Hotel. Carnaval performers in striking costumes, Rio de Janeiro City
Festa Nacional da Maçã

(Apr/May), São Joaquim (Santa
Catarina). Exhibitions, musical
shows, and German folk
performances, as well as
bestowing of the “best apple
producer” title.
Hot-Air Balloon Festival
(Easter week), Torres. A spec-
tacular annual hot-air balloon
event that ahs been held
since 1989. Other attractions
include a parachute display
and rodeo competition.
May
Hooded torchbearers at the Procissão do Fogaréu, Cidade de Goiás Festa do Bembé do Mercado
(approx May 13), Santo
Paixão de Cristo (Passion of Amaro. The festival marks the
Autumn Christ) is staged with over abolition of slavery in 1889.
In Southern Brazil and the 500 professional actors; the Traditional Bahian music and
Southeast, the autumn season audience also participates. In dance performances also
is marked by steady breezes the historic towns of Minas take place.
and comfortable temperatures. Gerais, crowds accompany Festa do Divino Espírito
Religious festivals, such as the religious processions. Santo (May/Jun, 45 days after
the Semana Santa and Festa São Paulo Fashion Week (late Easter), Pirenópolis & Alcântara.
do Divino Espírito Santo, Mar/early Apr), São Paulo. Mock battles between Moors
are celebrated with great Fashion shows featuring top and Christians are enacted.
involvement. The Hot-Air Brazilian models and fashion Forró and sertanejo parties
Balloon Festival is an designers are held (see p149). are held.
additional attraction. It also takes place in January.
March April Winter

International Book Biennial Procissão do Fogaréu (Wed With cooler climatic conditions,
(Mar/Apr), São Paulo (even before Good Friday), Cidade the southern and southeastern
years) and Rio de Janeiro (odd de Goiás. The city glows with regions are attractive to visitors.
years). A 10-day fair marked by lights and the streets blaze Across Brazil, the festivities
book launches, interactive with torches during the begin in June, paving the way
author sessions, lectures, and solemn procession of the for international music and art
cultural performances. Semana Santa, when the festivals that are a huge draw.
Semana Santa (Mar/Apr), across burial of Christ and the The GLBT (Gay, Lesbian,
Pernambuco & Minas Gerais. Resurrection are re-enacted Bisexual, and Transgender)
In Nova Jerusalém, the play to the sound of tambours. Parade is also significant.
Women in traditional dresses performing samba-da-roda at the Festa do Bembé do Mercado, Santo Amaro
Public Holidays
New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
Carnaval (Tue, 40 days
before Easter)
Good Friday (Mar/Apr)
Easter Sunday (Mar/Apr)
Tiradentes Day (Apr 21)
Labor Day (May 1)
Corpus Christi (Jun)
Independence Day
(Sept 7)
Our Lady of Aparecida
Day (Oct 12)
Elaborate headgears for the Festa do Bumba-meu-boi, São Luís
All Souls’ Day (Nov 2)
June July The Republic Proclamation
Day (Nov 15)
Festas Juninas (weekends through Festival de Inverno (Jul 1–30),
June), across Southeast Brazil. Campos do Jordão (São Paulo). Christmas Day (Dec 25)
Homage is offered to St. Antony Begun in 1990, this is the
(Jun 13), St. John (Jun 24), and St. greatest festival of classical and concerts feature on the
Peter (Jun 29). The festivities that music in Latin America. versatile program list.
take place at the arraiá (imitations Festival Internacional da Festa do Peão de Boiadeiro
of old country villas) are marked Dança (2nd fortnight), Joinville (beginning on the 3rd Thu),
by traditional feasting. (Santa Catarina). Dance Barretos (São Paulo state). The
Festa do Pinhão (early Jun), performances, workshops, and world’s largest 10-day rodeo
Lages (Santa Catarina). competitions take place at one event receiving almost one
Celebrating the edible pinhão of the world’s largest dance million visitors every year.
(seed of the Paraná pine), festivals, featuring dance forms Concerts and food fairs.
the festival includes lively ranging from jazz and folk to Pinga Festival (3rd weekend),
music performances. classical ballet. Paraty. Local cachaça samplings
GLBT Parade (early Jun), São Ilhabela Sailing Week (date (see p383), also known as pinga,
Paulo. Organized since 1997, the varies), Ilhabela. Known as the musical shows, and food stalls
parade is one of the biggest sailing capital, the island is offering regional delicacies.
events of its kind in the world. famed for competitive races International Festival of
Festa do Bumba-meu-boi (whole and regattas, organized by the Culture and Gastronomy
month), São Luís. Improvised Yacht Club de Ilhabela. (date varies), Tiradentes.
songs and dances by skilled Fortal (last week), Fortaleza. A 10-day international
performers tell the story of the The country’s biggest micareta, gastronomic event with
death and resurrection of a bull. held at Cidade Fortal, draws workshops and exhibitions in
Festa do Boi Bumbá (Jun crowds with axé music and restaurants or at public squares
28–30), Parintins. In Amazonas, small schools of samba. all over the town.
Bumba-meu-boi is known as Boi
Bumbá. Two groups, Caprichoso August
(in blue) and Garantido (in red), Festa da Nossa Senhora das
compete inside a bumbódromo Neves (Aug 5), João Pessoa.
built to hold 35,000 spectators. Street celebrations for 10 days
São João (Jun/Jul), Caruaru to mark the day of the city’s
& Campina Grande. Forró patroness, Our Lady of the
is the predominant rhythm Snow. The rhythm of frevo
at the dance festival, which defines the mood.
draws many leading performers. Festival de Gramado (2nd
International Puppet Theater week), Gramado. The most
Festival (Jun/Oct), Canela. important film awards event
Puppeteers perform in in Brazil offers viewers the
theaters, schools, and streets best in Brazilian and Latin
over four days. American cinema.
Rally dos Sertões (late Jun), Festa Literária Internacional
across Brazil. A 10-day event, de Paraty (FLIP) (early Aug),
when cars, truck pilots, and Paraty. An acclaimed literary
motorcycles drive 2,796 miles gathering of Brazilian and
(4,500 km) through Brazil’s international writers. Literary Taking the bull by the horns, Festa do
rough interior. reunions, plays, lectures, Peão de Boiadeiro, Barretos
The Climate of Brazil

Brazil’s climate, divided into four broad zones, varies greatly
from region to region. Amazônia is hot and humid all year Manaus and central
round, though parts experience a distinct dry season from Amazônia are
constantly humid, but
July to October. The central band of the country is also humid, experience a distinct
with a marked dry season, while the coastal areas enjoy dry season from July
to October.
pleasant tropical breezes and short seasonal downpours. High
temperatures and infrequent rainfall characterize the semi-
arid desert in the Northeast. In Southern Brazil, cool, wet
winters contrast with humid summers. Most of Brazil can
be visited at any time of the year, with the exception of
Boa Vista
the wetlands of the Pantanal during the rainy
season, and the extreme south of the country Macapá
during winter, when it can get very cold. Novo
Airāo
Parintins
Santarém
MANAUS Manaus
Tefé
° C/F 33/91 31/88
30/85 32/89
23/73 23/73 24/75 24/75
Porto
Velho
Rio Branco Alta Floresta
4 8 7 4
hrs hrs hrs hrs
8/203 2/51 4/102 10/254

in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm
Southwest Amazônia,
month Apr Jul Oct Jan
lying near the Andes,
sees even more rain than Cuiabá
the northern parts.
RIO BRANCO The wetlands of the Campo

Pantanal are deluged by rain Grande
° C/F 33/91 33/91 34/93 33/91 Average monthly for most of the year, and
seasonal flooding is common
maximum temperature
21/70 21/70 from October to April.
20/68
17/62
Average monthly
Foz Do
minimum temperature The central highlands of Iguaçu
7 8 3
Santa Catarina occasionally
7 Average daily hours receive snow in winter.
hrs hrs hrs hrs
of sunshine
9/229 1/25 4/102 11/279
Average monthly Porto
Alegre
month Apr Jul Oct Jan rainfall
PORTO ALEGRE
Climate Zones
Humid: Heavy rainfall, ° C/F 31/88
high humidity.
25/77 24/75
Tropical: Distinct hot humid 20/68 21/70
and cold dry seasons. 16/61 15/59 The lowest
10/50 temperatures are in
Semi-arid: Hot weather
conditions, scanty rainfall. the far south of the
6 5 8
country, where
7
Humid subtropical: Cold winters are cold,
winter, year-round rainfall. hrs hrs hrs hrs
windy, and rainy.
4/102 4/102 3/76 11/279
0 kilometers 500 month Apr Jul Oct Jan
0 miles 500
Trade winds from

the Atlantic bring BELÉM RECIFE
moist air to
Amazônia, where
° C/F 31/88 32/90 32/90 31/88 ° C/F
there is heavy 31/88 30/86
27/81 29/84
precipitation all 23/73 22/71 22/71 23/73 23/73 21/70 23/73 25/77
year round.
4 9 8 5 8 6 9 7
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
12/304 6/152 3/76 12/304 8/203 10/254 1/25 2/51

in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
The semi-arid interior is

so hot and dry that there SALVADOR
is often no winter here.
Belém
São Luís ° C/F
31/88 29/84
Fortaleza 26/79 28/82
23/73 21/70 22/72 23/73
Teresina
Natal The coastal region

in the northeast of
Joāo Pessoa the country receives 6 5 6 7
Recife almost year-round hrs hrs hrs hrs

sunshine and
Palmas 7/178 5/127 3/76 2/51
Maceió seasonal downpours.
Salvador
Brasília The high-altitude plateau

on which Brasília sits can BRASÍLIA
Goiânia Porto Seguro
become quite cool, with
temperatures as low as 50° F
Diamantina ° C/F
(10° C ) in winter. 28/82 29/84 27/81
26/79
Belo Horizonte
17/63 18/64 18/64
Vitória 13/55
Campinas Rio de
Janeiro
São Paulo 9 10 5 6
hrs hrs hrs hrs
Curítiba 3/76 0.4/10 3/76 5/127

Florianópolis
SÃO PAULO RIO DE JANEIRO BELO HORIZONTE
° C/F ° C/F ° C/F

28/82 27/81 29/84 27/81 27/81 27/81
25/77 25/77 24/75 25/77 23/73 24/75
21/70 21/70 19/66
18/64 17/63 16/61 16/60 18/64
15/59 14/57
10/50 10/50
5 6 7 6 6 7 5 7 6 9 5 6
hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs hrs
2/51 1/25 6/152 9/229 4/102 1/25 3/76 5/127 2/51 0.2/6 3/76 8/203
in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm in/mm
month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan month Apr Jul Oct Jan
INTRODUCING BRAZIL 51
THE HISTORY
OF BRAZIL
Very little is known about the history of Brazil before 1500, when Europeans
first traveled there. Archaeological remains, which consist mainly of pottery,
suggest a complex society that was in existence long before the colonialists
arrived. After more than 300 years of Portuguese colonization, Brazil became
a republic in 1889. Long periods of totalitarian rule finally led to the return
of democracy in 1989.
For over a millennium, before the European conquest were the Tupi-Guaraní
Europeans arrived in Brazil, Amazônia Indians. While they lived off slash-and-burn
had a vast network of sophisticated farming, the Tupinambá, another large
societies with populations of up to 100,000. group, cultivated crops, primarily maize.
The abundance of fish in the Amazon river
and its tributaries was almost certainly European Discovery
one of the main reasons for the wealth and The coastline was widely inhabited when
rapid growth of cultures in Amazônia. Spanish explorer Vicente Yáñez Pinzón
Up until the beginning of the 16th disembarked on the northeastern shore
century, the middle Amazon region in Pernambuco, on January 26, 1500.
around Santarém was an important He could not claim the newfound land
center for ceramic art and trading. for Spain, as he was officially limited by
It was home to thousands of semi-settled the Tordesillas meridian. The Treaty of
indigenous people who grew maize Tordesillas, signed in 1494 between
and had access to plentiful fish. Living on Spain and Portugal, determined that
higher land, up above the flood plain, as all lands discovered west of a meridian
well as in longhouses along riverbanks, located 3 miles (5 km) west of the Cape
they left important ceramic remains. Verde Islands would belong to Spain, and
Archaeological evidence from the earth those to the east of this line could be
mounds near Santarém and also on the claimed by Portugal. On April 23, 1500,
Ilha de Marajó (see p274) suggests that Pedro Álvares Cabral landed in southern
some of the shell mounds were part Bahia, marking the Portuguese arrival in
of these complex fishing societies. Brazil. Portugal, which already controlled
The most widespread of the 1,000 the Indian Ocean and the spice trade,
semi-nomadic indigenous peoples that bolstered its position as a mercantile
inhabited the territory at the time of the power rivaled only by Spain.
13,000 BC One of 1000 BC–AD 1000 Amazonian

the early hunting civilization, currently referred to AD 1000
communities Detail of rock as Patiti or Enin by archaeologists, Hierarchical
flourishes near Pedra painting, dating develops a crop irrigation system societies settled
Furada, in Piauí state from 2800 BC along the Amazon
20,000 BC 2000 BC 1000 BC AD 1 AD 1000
9500 BC Migration 2000 BC Shell-mound sediment in Rio de Janeiro AD 1500 Pedro Álvares Cabral
across the Pacific dated to this time is evidence of human activity of Portugal lands in Bahia
Ocean to mid-
Amazon region 3000 BC Prehistoric cultural developments AD 500–1300 Period of major
in Marajoara and Santarém have been dated growth and expansion of
to this time Marajoara culture
Detail of a meeting of Portuguese sailors and natives of Brazil, a 1592 line engraving by Theodor de Bry
The Portuguese Conquest

When the Portuguese reached Brazil in 1500, their period of
maritime expansion was at its peak. In 1501, Emperor Manuel I
ordered Amerigo Vespucci to explore the new territory further,
leading to the settlement of Guanabara Bay (Rio de Janeiro). In
1530, an expedition led by Martim Alfonso de Sousa resulted in the
first colonial towns – São Vicente and São Paulo. Preoccupied with
Africa and the Far East, Portugal neglected Brazil until 1532, when
João III divided the land into 15 captaincies. The early settlers mainly
comprised impoverished Portuguese peasants and nobles, who Armillary sphere, a globe used
were expected to explore and govern these captaincies. by early navigators
Manuel I (1469–1521)
An illuminated Portuguese
manuscript features the
royal coat of arms, as well
as armillary spheres
symbolizing Emperor
Manuel’s reign as a golden
age of exploration.
Priests also joined the

expedition, hoping to
spread Christianity in
the New World.
Cabral erected a cross

and held a Catholic
service to signify the
ownership of Brazil.
Pedro Álvares Cabral

The commander of the fleet sent to India by
Emperor Manuel I, Cabral landed at Porto Seguro
in southern Bahia on April 23, 1500. The
Portuguese navigator baptized the bay, where
they anchored for 10 days, Terra de Vera Cruz, or
“Land of the True Cross.” His onward voyage to
India was beset with calamities, and Cabral finally
drowned in a shipwreck a few months later.
Indigenous People meeting

the Portuguese
Initial Portuguese fleets were received
by friendly indigenous people. Gradually,
these confrontations and meetings
became more hostile in nature.
THE HISTORY OF BRAZIL 53
The Naming of Brazil

Officially, the land was named for pau-brasil,
or brazil wood, a tree yielding a valuable red
dye. However, the name “Brazil” appeared in
the Irish legend of St. Brendan as Hy Brazil
(“Blessed Land” in Gaelic). It became part of
European maritime folklore, designating a
hypothetical land located somewhere in the
Atlantic. When Cabral found a new land in
that general area, he may have identified it
with Brendan’s Brazil. The tree might have
Early Brazil map, showing a been named after the land, rather than the
couple under brazil wood other way around. Botocudos Man
Still surviving in some
parts of Brazil, the
Botocudos were
hunter-gatherers.
Woodcut Showing
Tupinambá People
Ritually practicing
cannibalism, the Tupinambá
were some of the first
Brazilians to make contact
with the Portuguese. They
soon died from diseases car-
ried by the Europeans, and
from the conditions of their
capture and enslavement.
João III (1502–57)

King João III ascended to the
throne while the Portuguese
Empire was at the height of its
mercantile and colonial power.
Unable to directly govern Brazil,
King João III divided the land into
15 capitanias, or captaincies.
Settlement was focused mainly
on the long coastline. Only São
Vicente and Pernambuco
immediately prospered. In 1548,
the king repossessed the
captaincies and brought Brazil
under his direct control.
A Jesuit Admonishing
Indigenous People
The influence of the Jesuits
accompanied this early period of
colonization. The first missionaries
had arrived in 1549 and acquired
great power in Brazil through their
Skilled captains
accompanied influence on the Portuguese
Cabral in his explor- court. A zealous missionary
ations to discover movement began, aimed at
new territories. converting the local people.
engenhos (plantations) along the

northeastern coast soon became the
base of the Brazilian economy. Salvador
and Olinda emerged as key centers for
the sugar trade.
The hunting-gathering indigenous
people, however, were found to be
unsuitable slaves for the plantations.
They were better suited for the brazil
wood trade, and were made to log and
transport timber instead. From the 1550s,
Painting showing a group of indigenous Brazilian slaves at work the landowners turned to Africa, importing
in a sugar plantation millions of slaves.
Colonization & Expansion Colonial Wars

King João III conferred special colonial While the Portuguese Crown was still
privileges to the donatários, the aristocrats struggling to consolidate its hold on Brazil,
and minor gentry, who were expected to the Dutch and French forces continued to
develop and govern the capitanias on behalf encroach on its territories. In 1555, the
of the Crown. The donatários, however, met French had made inroads into the bay of
with adverse climatic conditions and hostile Guanabara, establishing their own colony,
indigenous people. Some of the capitanias French Antarctic. Portuguese forces seized
were attacked by the indigenous Brazilians. the colony in 1565, and founded a new city,
In 1549, the Crown was forced to send Tomé Rio de Janeiro.
de Sousa as the first governor, who was Throughout the first half of the 17th
assigned the task of protecting the few century, French and Dutch privateers
remaining captaincies. continued to plunder the coastal cities.
With a powerful fleet, the Dutch offered
Sugar & the Slave Trade
Introduced to Brazil in 1532, sugar replaced
the country’s first major export, brazil wood,
which was nearly wiped out as a result of
over-exploitation. Setting up his capital in
Salvador, Tomé de Sousa enlisted the
support of the Jesuits. The indigenous
people who did not convert to Christianity
were enslaved and sent to work in sugar
plantations. As a result of the high demand African slaves in a sugar mill, using an early form of grinder for
for sugar in Europe, sugar cane grown in refining sugar
1550 African
1532 King João III slaves shipped to 1572 Construction of
divides the land into Brazil to work Salvador’s Catholic 1630 The Dutch
15 capitanias sugar plantations cathedral completed Slave ship occupy Olinda
1500 1550 1600 1650
1624 The Dutch

1554 Jesuits 1565 French capture Salvador,
1532 Sugar cane is 1549 Salvador found São Paulo Antarctic destroyed laying the city to
introduced to Brazil founded by and Rio de siege for the next
Tomé de Sousa Janeiro founded nine months
An engraving depicting naval combat between French and Portuguese ships off the coast of Brazil
a greater challenge. In 1624, the Dutch further development and expansion of the
captured Salvador and laid siege to the city, country’s interior. Traffic to São Paulo and
until the combined fleet of the Portuguese Rio de Janeiro rapidly increased and new
and Spanish expelled them. The Dutch communities drew people away from the
occupied Olinda in 1630 and, by 1641, Northeast coast. The focus of power in
controlled a vast stretch of coastline, ending Brazil moved from the Northeast to the
Portugal’s monopoly of the sugar trade. Southeast, and Rio de Janeiro was made
During 1648 and 1649, two battles were the new capital in 1763.
fought at Guararapes, in Pernambuco, where
the Dutch were routed and their territory Struggle for Independence
reduced to an enclave around Recife. The gold rush lasted not more than 70
Following several years of open warfare, years. The decline of gold in the 18th
the Dutch formally withdrew in 1661. century led to high taxes, as Brazil was
forced to meet the quota set by the Crown
The Discovery of Gold for the minimum annual gold production.
The decline of the sugar industry coincided This, coupled with the Brazilian resentment
with the discovery of gold. In 1695, gold at their exclusion from administration and
was first discovered in Sabara, Minas Gerais, the Portuguese dominance of foreign trade,
by the bandeirantes (paramilitary adven- culminated in the 1789 Inconfidência
turers), who faced grueling conditions as Mineira rebellion. Led by Tiradentes (see
they pressed inland toward the Andean pp130–31), who was eventually executed,
foothills. Gold was also found in Cuiabá, the uprising was aimed at Brazilian
Mato Grosso, in 1719. Both events led to independence from Portuguese rule.
1789 Inconfidência
1661 The Dutch formally 1763 Rio de Janeiro Mineira uprising is
withdraw from 1719 Gold discovered made the new quelled, and the leader,
Portuguese territories in Cuiabá, Mato Grosso capital city of Brazil Tiradentes, is hanged
1700 1750 1800
1695 Gold discovered

in Sabará, Minas Gerais
Portrait of Tiradentes
Provincial Unrest
Dom Pedro I was forced to abdicate in favor
of his five-year-old son, Dom Pedro II. From
1831 to 1840, three appointed regents
ruled the country in the young Emperor’s
name, during a period of turmoil in which
local factions struggled to gain control of
their provinces and to keep the masses in
line. The regency in Rio de Janeiro gave
Dom Pedro proclaiming “Independéncia ou Morte!” at the Rio considerable power to the provinces in
Ipiranga, on September 7, 1822 1834, when Brazil became a federation of
locally autonomous regional powers, with
The First Emperor of Brazil loose allegiance to the center. The rebel-
The advance of French Emperor Napoleon, lions, riots, and popular movements that
in 1808, forced King Dom João VI, who marked these years did not spring from
was ruling from Lisbon, to relocate his economic misery, but from attempts to
government to Brazil. In 1821, the royal family share in the prosperity stemming from the
were forced to return to deal with rebels back North Atlantic demand for Brazil’s exports.
home. Dom João’s son, the Prince Regent,
who had stayed back in Brazil, proclaimed The Coffee Industry
independence from Portugal on September Coffee, which was introduced to Brazil in
7, 1822. In a famous scene at the Rio Ipiranga, the early 1800s, filled the void left by the
he tore the Portuguese insignia from his collapse of the sugar industry and the
uniform, drew his sword, and declared, waning gold rush. An army officer,
“Independência ou Morte!” (Independence
or Death). Three months later, he crowned
himself Emperor Dom Pedro I.
Although the assumption of
independence had been easy, Dom Pedro
soon realized that organizing the new
government was riddled with challenges.
His own autocratic nature proved to be the
biggest hurdle in winning the confidence
of his subjects. The new consitution he
proposed, based on his own unlimited
power, was strongly opposed by the
assembly. When Dom Pedro dismissed
his assembly in 1831, demonstrators A formal portrait of Brazil’s Emperor Dom Pedro II (1825–91),
demanded its reinstatement. depicting him in full regalia
Dom Pedro I
1808 Napoleon’s 1842
advance forces Dom 1825 Britain and Portugal 1837–38 The Rebellions in
João to flee Portugal, sign a treaty recognizing Sabinada Rebellion Minas Gerais
and relocate to Brazil Brazilian independence in Salvador and São Paulo
1810 1820 1830 1840
1834 Brazil
1822 The Prince Regent 1831 Pedro dismisses the becomes a 1838–41 The
proclaims independence from Constituent Assembly federation of Balaiada Rebellion
Portugal, crowning himself after a draft constitution autonomous in Maranhão
Emperor Dom Pedro I is proposed regional powers
Francisco de Mello, was believed to

have brought the first coffee beans
into Brazil, from his journey to
French Guiana. The coffee industry
began to flourish, mainly in Minas
Gerais and São Paulo. Expanding
coffee production in the 1850s and
1860s attracted British investment in
railroads to speed transport of the
beans to the coast. The coastal The Surrender of Uruguaiana, painted during the war
Santos–São Paulo railroad (1868) The War of the Triple Alliance
was followed by a series of railroads From 1864 to 1870, Paraguay and the allied countries of
that linked the northeastern coast Argentina, Brazil, and Uruguay fought one of the bloodiest
to the interior. conflicts on the American continent. Also known as the
Paraguayan War, it has been widely attributed to the
expansionist ambitions of Paraguayan dictator Francisco
Slavery Abolished Solano Lopez, and the Brazilian and Argentinian meddling
As coffee exports rose steadily, so in internal Uruguayan politics. The outcome of the war was
the devastating defeat of Paraguay by the Triple Alliance,
did the numbers of imported slaves. but at the cost of over 100,000 casualties.
In Rio de Janeiro alone, they soared
from around 26,000 in 1825 to
44,000 in 1828. While slave owners argued government to outlaw the African slave
that slavery was not demoralizing, others trade. Over the next five years, even
were in favor of replacing slavery with free clandestine landings stopped, ending
European immigrant labor. the transatlantic trade. In 1871,
Eventually, a contract the cabinet in Rio Branco
system that was little approved a law freeing
better than slavery newborn slaves and
was established by requiring masters to
the parliament. New care for them until they
laws and decrees, were eight years old.
unacceptable to slave Between 1875 and
owners, were simply not 1887, 156,000 immigrants
enforced, such as the 1829 arrived in São Paulo to work
order forbidding slave ships An 1857 portrayal of black slaves as free laborers and fill the void
to sail for Africa. The failure to on a plantation created by the gradual decline
enforce these orders caused in the slave population. By the
regional slave rebellions throughout the 1880s, the slave population was reduced
19th century. In 1850, British and domestic to half its size. In 1888, the Golden Law
pressure finally forced the Brazilian was passed, finally abolishing slavery.
Lady being served and fanned by a black slave

1850 British and domestic
pressure force the Brazilian 1875–87 Approximately 1888 The Golden
government to outlaw 156,000 immigrants Law passed, ending
slave trade arrive in São Paulo slavery in Brazil
1850 1860 1870 1880
1864–70 The War of the 1871 The Rio Branco

Triple Alliance cabinet enacts a law, 1884 Slaves over
ensuring the well- 60 years old
1868 Completion of the being of children emancipated
Santos–São Paulo railroad born to slaves
The First Republic only through the local

In 1889, the monarchy was oligarchies, or patrias. The
overthrown by a military coup, constitutional system was
which was led by Marechal offset by the coronelismo,
Deodoro da Fonseca and or the real system of
supported by Brazil’s coffee unwritten agreements
barons. Dom Pedro II was exiled in among these local bosses,
Paris, where he died two years by which local oligarchies
later. A republic was born, with chose the state governors,
Deodoro as the first president. The who in turn selected
Constituent Assembly that drew the president.
up the 1891 constitution was a The informal
confrontation between the São The funeral of King Dom Pedro II in Paris, distribution of power
Paulo coffee oligarchy that reported in a French journal emerged as the result
sought to limit executive power of armed struggles and
and the radical authoritarians who wanted bargaining. In order to check the
to expand presidential authority. The nationalizing tendencies of the army, the
growing opposition culminated in a navy oligarchic republic strengthened the navy
revolt, forcing Deodoro to step down only a and police, turning them into small armies
few months later. It was recognized that the in the larger states.
central government could exercise control
The Struggle For Modernization
At the turn of the 19th century, Brazil
lacked an integrated economy. Domestic
consumption was largely neglected, and the
middle class was not yet active in political
life. The economy was organized around
large agricultural estates, or latifundia. Brazil
had lost its sugar market to Caribbean
Scooping coffee beans for shipment after drying, on a São producers, while the rubber boom in
Paulo plantation Amazônia was beginning to lose its
“Café Com Leite” Republic primacy to more efficient Southeast Asian
The early years of the republic were called plantations. The outbreak of World War I was
café com leite (coffee and milk) by its opponents. the turning point for the dynamic urban
Brazilian politics was dominated by an oligarchy sectors. Industrial production doubled, and
that comprised São Paulo coffee barons and
Minas Gerais cattle ranchers. These groups agricultural diversity received an impetus, as
controlled electoral politics, and the presidency the growing demand by the Allies for staple
alternated between the two wealthy states of
coffee and milk.
products sparked a new boom for goods
other than sugar and coffee. The old order
1889 Military officers 1897 Belo 1916 A civil statute

rebel against Dom Horizonte founded formally enshrines
Pedro II, establishing in Minas Gerais, as hierarchical and patri-
a republic Brazil’s first modern archal view of family
planned city Train station, and sexual relations
Belo Horizonte
1890 1900 1910 1920
1891 The first

president of 1896 Teatro 1902 Euclides da 1908 The first 1915 Southeast Asian
Brazil, Deodoro Amazonas (see Cunha writes Os Japanese immigrants rubber elbows out Brazil
Fonseca, ousted pp286–7) opens Sertões (see p210) arrive in Santarém from the market
by a navy revolt in Manaus
gave way to the political former had once enjoyed

aspirations of the Vargas’s support, but later
new urban groups – turned against him when
government, white-collar they realized that creating a
workers, professionals, strictly fascist state was not
bankers, merchants, and on his agenda. They were
industrialists. Increasing bidding to seize power in
support for industrial the 1938 election, which the
protectionism marked Brazilian army confronts rebels during the Constitution barred Vargas
Brazilian politics in the 1930 coup from contesting. Months
1920s. Disparate social before the election, Vargas
reform movements cropped up during this declared a state of emergency to avert an
period. Between 1922 and 1926, junior alleged communist plot. He dissolved the
military officers staged a revolt against the Constitution and established the Estado
landed elite, demanding socio-economic Novo (New State), which used repressive
modernization. political tactics and rejected free-market
liberal capitalism. Vargas’s promise of a
The New State “postwar era of liberty” could not save the
A bloodless coup by the military installed fall of the Estado Novo in 1945, when he
Getúlio Vargas as provisional president in was ousted by General Eurico Dutra. His
1930. Between the World Wars, he built a return to the presidency in 1951 was
corporatist, centralized state along fascist marred by inflation, corruption, and a
lines, although he did advocate some liberal political scandal involving an attack on a
reforms. The collapse of the old order had journalist by the president’s bodyguard.
created a vacuum, which was filled by the Faced with the ultimatum to resign, Vargas
fascist Integralistas and communists. The ended his life in 1954 by shooting himself.
Citizens of Rio de Janeiro welcoming rebel troops upon the success of the 1930 coup
Poster, World Cup, 1950

1932 Young army 1938 Vargas
officers lead their units establishes the 1950 World Cup 1954 Vargas commits
against the old order in Estado Novo, or soccer held in suicide with a bullet to
Minas Gerais and Rio the “New State” Brazil the heart
1930 1940 1950
1937 Vargas assumes

1930 A military coup dictatorial powers 1945 The Estado 1950 Vargas
installs Getúlio Vargas as under a new Novo collapses, re-elected president
provisional president constitution Eurico Dutra
comes to power
The Vargas Era (1930–54)

Spanning the creation of Brazil as a modern nation-state,
the long political career of Getúlio Vargas exemplifies the
various contradictions at the heart of the Brazilian national
character. His rise to power in 1930 marked the resurgence
of a generation of young, dynamic administrators, but also
marked the beginning of an authoritarian rule. During his
first term, he assumed absolute power to overthrow the old Getúlio Dornelles Vargas
order, and established the Estado Novo. Forced to step A pro-industry nationalist and
virulent anti-communist, Vargas
down after World War II, he remained popular and was
possessed an authoritarian streak.
re-elected in 1950. The hero of the newly emerged
urban working class, he favored
capitalism and liberal reforms to
some extent.
Crowd Cheering Vargas’s Victory

A bloodless coup in 1930 ended the reign of
President Washington Luis, and brought Vargas
into power.
Nationalized Fascism
Exploiting communist paranoia, Vargas assumed
dictatorship in 1937, abolishing opposition parties
and imposing censorship. He tolerated anti-
Semitism, initially encouraging the fascist
Integralistas (see p59) until they decided to contest
the elections against him in 1938.
Vargas,
diminutive in
stature, emu-
lated Hitler
and Mussolini
in some ways.
Ties with Mussolini Integralistas in Rio de Janeiro, 1938

In January 1931, 11 Italian aircraft, A group of Integralistas led a short-lived revolt against the
one of them piloted by Mussolini’s corrupt Vargas regime. They attacked the Palácio Guanabara,
son, were received in Brazil with and made a bid for Vargas’s life, but government forces
great applause. promptly suppressed the uprising.
Carmen Miranda 1950 World Cup

(1909–55) Brazil was confident of winning the World Cup in the first tournament
During the Vargas era, the to be held after World War II. The final was played on home ground
Portuguese-Brazilian singer- at Rio’s Estádio Maracanã. However, in a surprise victory, Uruguay
actress charmed post-World defeated Brazil 2–1. With slighted pride, the humiliated nation
War USA and the world. plunged into mourning.
New Ministry of Education

Vargas was responsible for the erection of a
sky-scraping new Ministry of Education, whose
cutting-edge design was emphasized by its
incongruous location behind a colonial church
in Rio de Janeiro.
Toward the Future Daily Life

Vargas recognized that Brazil’s strength lay in its Under Vargas’s rule, modern tramways were
vast natural resources. He created Petrobras, constructed to carry white-collar employees
the state oil company, and invested in road and to their various offices in the capital city of
air transport. Rio de Janeiro.
manifestation of Kubitschek’s nationalistic

aspirations was the creation of Brasília
(see pp298–9) as the new capital of Brazil.
Despite instilling national confidence,
Kubitschek’s era was also beset with
massive inflation. Also, the influx of foreign
capital rapidly captured domestic industry,
and the urban bourgeoisie found state
control threatening rather than protective.
Mild structural reforms took place under
President João Goulart (1961–64), but
the increasing political infighting between
left and right culminated in the 1964
military junta.
The Era of Military Rule

A period of right-wing military
dictatorship followed. In a bid to appease
President Juscelino Kubitschek on the cover of Time magazine the hard-liners, the new president, Marshal
dated January 13, 1970 Humberto Castelo Branco, recessed and
purged Congress, and decreed the
Into Modernity expansion of the president’s powers at
The reign of Juscelino Kubitschek, Vargas’s the expense of the legislature and the
successor, lasted from 1956 to 1961, judiciary. His gamble curbed the populist
ushering Brazil into modernity. left, but gave his successor, Artur da Costa
Campaigning on a platform of “Fifty years e Silva (1967–69), a basis for authoritarian
of progress in five,” Kubitschek tried to rule. Despite their victory, the hard-liners
achieve this progress with were still unable to
generous incentives for institutionalize their
foreign investors, such as agenda politically. They
low taxes, privileges for did not give up their
the importation of liberal constitutionalism
machinery, and donations as they feared damage
of land. All this gave to their alliance with the
impetus to the economic US, the citadel of anti-
growth rate, which paved communism. In 1969,
the way for the economic the democratic mask fell
boom in the next decade. Trans-Amazon Highway construction near Altamira off when General Médici
The most notable Brazil, July 1971 came to power and
1977 Dona Flor and Her 1985 Civilian

1960 Brasília 1970 Brazil wins Two Husbands brings 1979 General Tancredo Neves
inaugurated as the the soccer World international fame to Figueiredo is sworn is elected to
new capital of Brazil Cup in Mexico Brazilian cinema in as president presidency
1960 1965 1970 1975 1980 1985
1961 Janio Quadros 1974 Ernesto 1980 Film Bye Bye 1984 Benedita da
elected president, Geisel’s rule Brasil brings more Silva becomes the
replaced by João begins, marking a recognition to first black woman
Goulart in the same year slow return to Brazilian cinema in Congress
democracy
Jules Rimet trophy
continued to rule an ment in 1989, when Fernando

authoritarian regime without Collor de Mello won 53 percent
popular support. An extremely of the vote. The democra-
oppressive government tization of the government was
apparatus hounded political visible in the impeachment of
opponents. Yet the Médici the corrupt de Mello regime,
administration cloaked itself in forcing him to resign in 1992.
the green and gold flag when The 1994 elections brought to
Brazil won the Jules Rimet Former President Luiz Inácio Lula da power Fernando Henrique
trophy for its third consecutive Silva, victorious after his re-election Cardoso, who served two
victory in the soccer World terms but failed to match the
Cup in 1970. From 1968 to 1974, during the growth of the country’s wealth and power
darkest days of dictatorship, the military- with better living conditions. Socio-
civil alliance took shape as the economy economic contradictions helped usher in
boomed, reaching annual GDP growth Lula da Silva in 2002 as Brazil’s first elected
rates of 12 percent. During this period, left-wing president. His Workers’ Party
the Trans-Amazon Highway was built, (Partido dos Trabalhadores – PT) government
and the Rio Paraná was dammed. declined to nationalize private companies
Geisel’s accession in 1974 signaled a or collectivize land. This restored investor
move toward democratic rule. He confidence in the country that underwrote
attempted to restrain the growing strength strong economic growth and employment
of the opposition parties by creating an expansion. Despite an unfulfilled promise of
electoral college that would approve his economic and social revolution, Lula was
selected replacement. He allowed the re-elected to power in October 2006. Dilma
return of exiles, restored habeas corpus, Rousseff, also of the PT, was elected
and installed General João Figueiredo as president in 2011 at the end of Lula’s two
his successor in 1979. A 1981 bombing terms in office, and re-elected in 2015.
incident at Rio City’s RioCentro confirmed
direct military involvement in terrorism. The
Figueiredo regime’s inaction in punishing
the guilty strengthened the public’s resolve
to end military rule, as Brazil faced inflation
and mounting foreign debt.
The Return to Democracy

In 1985, civilian Tancredo Neves was voted
into office as president. However, he died
before taking office. Brazil completed its A 1997 demonstration by landless farm workers, demanding jobs,
transition to a popularly elected govern- justice, and land reform
Brazilian President Fernando

Collor de Mello 2008 Brazil appointed as host 2016 Rio de Janeiro due to
2001 Congress approves a civil country for the 2014 World Cup host the 2016 Olympics
1995 Fernando
code, giving equal rights to 2009 Rio announced as host
Cardoso takes office as men and women
president city for the 2016 Olympics
1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015 2020
1994 Brazil 2000 UNESCO 2002 Brazil wins 2006 Lula da Silva 2011 Dilma 2015 Dilma Rousseff begins
defeats Italy to declares the Atlantic its fifth World Cup is re-elected in a Rousseff second term as president
win the World rainforest a World title defeating landslide victory, elected first
Cup title Heritage Site Germany returning as Brazil’s female 2014 Brazil hosted the
president president 2014 FIFA World Cup
SOUTHEAST
BRAZIL
Introducing Southeast Brazil 66–69

Rio de Janeiro City 70–105
Rio de Janeiro &
Espírito Santo 106–123
Minas Gerais 124–137
São Paulo City 138–163
São Paulo State 164–175
66 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
Introducing Southeast Brazil

The four states of Rio de Janeiro, Espírito Santo, Minas Gerais, and
São Paulo constitute Brazil’s economic heartland. The giant
metropolises – Rio de Janeiro, Belo Horizonte, and São Paulo –
BRAZIL
burst with energetic cultural life. Rio de Janeiro holds the greatest
attractions, with its Carnaval and breathtaking mountains and
SOUTHEAST
beaches. Beyond the urban hubs, nature and rural life exist BRAZIL
undisturbed. Wild islands lie a short boat ride away. Inland, in the
folds of the rugged Minas hills, are colonial towns whose cobbled
streets, colorful Portuguese town houses, and ornate Baroque
churches remain little changed since colonial times.
Parque Nacional Serra

da Canastra (see p137),
one of the protected
areas dotting the region,
preserves pristine
rainforest and cerrado, as
well as rich fauna.
Uberlândia
Uberaba
São José Ribeirão

de Rio Preto Preto
SÃO PAULO STATE

(See pp164–75)
Presidente
Prudente
São Paulo City (see pp138–63), the
capital of São Paulo state, is relentlessly Campinas
urban and frenetic, but has Brazil’s best
restaurants, shops, and nightlife.
Jacareí
SÃO PAULO CITY

(See pp138–63)
São Paulo’s coast (see pp168–75),

stretching across 250 miles (400 km),
features beaches and islands that serve
as the weekend playground for the city.
The pretty colonial city of Diamantina, Minas Gerais
INTRODUCING SOUTHEAST BRAZIL 67
0 km 100
0 miles 100
Diamantina (see p128), once a diamond-mining town,

set in a scenic landscape, is reputedly the finest of
colonial towns in Minas Gerais. It was designated a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.
Montes
Claros
Teófilo Otoni
RIO DE JANEIRO &

MINAS GERAIS ESPÍRITO SANTO
(See pp124–37) (See pp106–23)
Ipatinga
Linhares
Belo Horizonte
Congonhas Vitória
Petrópolis (see pp116–19), once the

summer retreat of the Brazilian royal
Juiz de Fora family, is still the home of Dom Pedro
Campos dos Goitacazes II’s heir. The lovely mountain setting
gives it a distinct character.
Petrópolis
Macaé
RIO DE
JANEIRO CITY
(See pp70–105)
São
Sebastião
Rio de Janeiro
(see pp70–105) is a city of
neighborhoods, each with
its own unique character
and most endowed with a
great view. The panorama
of Sugar Loaf and Botafogo
from Mirante Dona Marta is
simply unparalleled.
68 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
Carnaval in Rio Carnaval Dates

One of the world’s most spectacular festivals, Carnaval 2016 Feb 5–10
2017 Feb 24–Mar 1
is celebrated all over Brazil, but the celebrations in Rio 2018 Feb 9–14
are justly famous. They remain unmatched for their 2019 Mar 1–6
sheer scale and splendor. Falling in February or early 2020 Feb 21–26
March, Carnaval is linked to the calendar of the Catholic 2021 Feb 12–17
2022 Feb 25–Mar 2
Church. Traditionally, Carnaval is the last celebration of 2023 Feb 17–22
excess and joy before the austerity and fasting of the
Lenten period. Its key elements include street celebrations,
carnival balls, and the world-famous parade of top samba
schools, which traditionally takes place at the Sambódromo
in downtown Rio.
Samba Schools are large social clubs found in Rio’s poorer

communities and neighborhoods, often linked to the local favelas.
Mangueira, one of the most prominent schools, was founded in
1928, and Portela, which began in 1923, has won the most Carnaval
titles. Many top schools date from the 1940s and 1950s, while
Grande Rio formed as late as 1988.
Giant Puppets are put

together to decorate the
floats and fascinating
costumes are created for
the participants.
Craftspeople work
throughout the year, as
Carnaval is a year-round
industry. Much of the
work can now be seen at
close quarters in the
Cidade de Samba in
downtown Rio.
Porta bandeira is the school’s

standard bearer, dressed in lavish
18th-century formal wear, regardless
of the school’s theme.
Street Carnivals take place wherever there

is a band that can strike up a samba and
move around the streets. Bands attract a
large following who dance and sing
through the neighborhoods.
INTRODUCING SOUTHEAST BRAZIL 69
Party-loving Cariocas consider

Carnaval more important than any Tips for Visitors
other event in the calendar, and that
Transport: Take the metro. Use
includes both Christmas and New
Central Station if your ticket is for an
Year. It is a week-long holiday for
uneven-numbered sector and Praça
partying around the clock and a
Onze for an even one.
sign that summer is finally coming
Winner’s Parade: Those who
to a close.
missed the event can see part of
the parade by winning schools on
the Saturday after Carnaval.
Tickets: Book your tickets in
advance (Maracanã stadium box
office, (21) 2568 9962).
A different theme is chosen by every school, and conceptualized

by the carnavalesco (director). The history of Espírito Santo,
represented by the state colors, pink, blue, and white, was the
theme of the Caprichosos de Pilares school in 2006. This float
shows antropofagismo, the concept of “cultural cannibalism,”
putting foreign art, music, and literature in a Brazilian context.
The central display is the focal point of the

float, and is often the most elaborately
designed aspect, with the most creative
costumes on display.
Passistas, or participants, numbering a

minimum of 2,500, join each float with at least
200 in the bateria (percussion section).
The Parade
Each of the 12 main samba schools will have around 4,000
participants who must cover the Passarela do Samba in not less
than 65 minutes and not more than 80 minutes. In that time,
they will put on a performance every bit as complex and visually
exciting as any musical showing on Broadway or in London’s
West End. Six schools parade each night.
Mestre sala is the school’s dance master

who, along with the porta bandeira,
performs a complex series of dance
steps as they move along the route.
Sambódromo, or Passarela do
Samba, was inaugurated in 1984.
Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, it can
accommodate over 60,000
spectators at any one time. The end
square is used for Carnaval, outdoor
concerts, and festivals.
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY

Rio de Janeiro is quite simply one of the world’s most beautiful
and vibrant cities, and is the number-one destination for visitors
coming to Brazil. Its unique setting, with dramatic mountains
and beaches at its very center, sets it apart from the other great
cities of the world. In addition, Rio’s flamboyant Carnaval, samba,
and bossa nova make for a heady mix that is impossible to ignore.
Rio de Janeiro was first discovered Today, Rio is an international metropolis

by European explorers on January 1, and a spectacular tropical resort. It has
1502. They mistook the huge Guanabara several iconic sights, including the
Bay for the mouth of a river (rio) and enormous statue of Christ that looms
called the site “River of January,” thus protectively over the city from Corcovado
giving the city its name. Evidence of mountain, the easily recognizable Sugar
the city’s colonial past can still be seen Loaf Mountain at one end of Urca Bay,
in downtown Rio, with buildings and and the famous stadium, Estádio Maracanã,
artifacts dating from the 16th to the which opened for the 1950 World Cup and
19th centuries, including the imposing has hosted crowds of up to 200,000 people.
Paço Imperial and Palácio Tiradentes. Rio’s residents, affectionately called
In 1763, the city became the capital of “Cariocas,” are a laid-back, friendly people
Brazil’s Vice-Royalty and in 1808, the who love to go out. Visitors will be spoiled
Portuguese royal family and court for choice in this hedonistic city, and can
abandoned Lisbon for Rio, making it the visit Lapa for its extravagant clubs, Gávea
capital of both Brazil and the Portuguese for its bars, and Ipanema and Leblon for
Empire. It remained home to the Brazilian their boutiques and restaurants. Rio’s
monarchy until 1889 and the capital of beaches provide ample opportunity for all
the Brazilian Republic until 1960, when manner of water sports and are a great
the title was awarded to the newly built meeting place for the city’s residents,
Bauhaus-style Brasília. both rich and poor.
The colorful Copacabana beach, lined with palm trees

Sunset over Botofogo Bay and the Sugar Loaf Mountain, Rio de Janeiro
72 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
Exploring Rio de Janeiro City

Baía de
Rio de Janeiro covers a vast area of 473 Guanabara
sq miles (1,225 sq km) and is home to 6 IDA

O EN
million people, making it Brazil’s second- VÃ AV
RU
AV F R A N C I S C O B I C ALH O
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after São Paulo. It has two main zones – CRISTÓVÃO
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A
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A
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museums, and churches. R S AT
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São Francisco RU DO
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Xavier H AD
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RU A
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Sights at a Glance R CON IM
O
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BI
Historic Buildings, Streets, D E BO
SP
O
Neighborhoods & Townships
D E TURAN O
1 Praça XV & Centro pp74–5 RRO
r Museu da República MO
3 Docks & Avenida Rio Branco t Museu Carmen Miranda
MORRO DO
5 Confeitaria Colombo y Oi Futuro Ipanema SAL
GU
EID
f Museu do Índio
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6 Theatro Municipal &
E
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AN
Cinelândia g Museu Villa-Lobos M
IR
DO TE
8 Santa Teresa h Museu Casa de MORRO AN
MIR
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9 Lapa Rui Barbosa RUA
j Morro do Corcovado & Cristo

National Parks
Redentor pp86–7
v Parque Nacional da Tijuca
ÇAS
l Quinta da Boa Vista DA
FORMIGA
O
RR
OU
z Sambódromo & Cidade
O
Soccer Clubs & Stadiums

M
do Samba IO REB
s Jóquei Clube Brasileiro
x Centro Cultural do Banco
k Estádio do Maracanã
ANTÔN
do Brasil CORCOVADO
c Barra pp90–91 Areas of Natural Beauty

TÚNEL
n Niterói u Sugar Loaf Mountain PA R

QUE NA UCA
CIONAL DA TIJ
pp80–81
Churches & Monasteries
LAGOA
2 Mosteiro de São Bento
4 Igreja de São Francisco da
ÂNICO
Penitência BO T
IM
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7 Catedral Metropolitana IR
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A
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Parks & Gardens
Rodrigo
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A B
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AVE N I D
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Beaches & Lagoons

0 meters 1000
i Copacabana p82 IO RI BE IR
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q Museu Histórico Nacional Atlantic Ocean

w Museu de Arte Moderna
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY 73
S A LV E S
IG UE MORRO
DR AV Practical Information
RO DA SAÚDE VE
NE
TO
ZU
ELA
Ilha das
Cobras
* 6,000,000. n Riotur Centro,
IS
CR
O Ilha
Fiscal
Praça Pio X 119, Centro, (21) 2271
T
7000. _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar),

S AN
AV
R MO. DA
RU
CONCEIÇÃO
A Reveillon at Copacabana (Dec
DA
RIO
Niterói
Uruguaiana 31). ∑ rio.rj.gov.br
AM
Central
BRA
ER I C
PRAÇA
Presidente
XV DE Transport
Vargas
NCO
GA S NOVEMBRE
k 9 miles (15 km) N of center,
A
VA R CENTRO
AV GENERAL
E NTE then taxi. ~ a short distance
SID Carioca
JUSTO
PRE (1 km) E of Cinelândia metro
Praça station. @
Onze AV E Cinelândia
NIDA
MEM
RF DE S
R E I C AN E CA Ã LAPA Aeroporto
R
A
U
R I A C H U E LO
Santos Dumont
RIO Greater Rio de

RU A DO C ATE T E
COMPRIDO SANTA Janeiro City Aeroporto Internacional

TERESA
I RU
do Rio de Janeiro
Glória
101
TÚ
AP
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São
IT
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TRA Gonçalo
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OR
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JANEIRO
RU
GUINLE PARQUE DO
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PRAIA DO
MORRO S E U LARLargo do
RI
71
IN
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A
Machado 0 km 5
DA
H EI
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R
RU
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MO
FLAMENGO
MAC
RR
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Key
ID A
M
Flamengo
HAD
UN
Area of the main map

TA
DO N
EN
AR
Highway
M
A
OVO
A
N
O
O
D Main road
RR
URCA
ALVE Praia
MO
IS
Other road
LU
Enseada de de
ÃO
Botafogo Fora
JO
Praia de Urca Railroad

AV
AL
C L EME N T E AV E UG
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SÃO NI RT
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Botafogo DA O
A
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PA S
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DADE J O ÃO OR
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Campos OR M
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Getting to & Around Rio
CL
M
A
AR
A
ID
SS
Rio is well connected and its international airport has daily

A
O
N
N
AV
COPACABANA flights to most major South and North American and European
V
A
Cantagalo
Praia do
Copacabana
cities, as well as to several cities in Brazil. The city is also linked
by Brazil’s long-distance bus network, while a growing number
MORRO DO
CANTAGALO
of people also arrive here by cruise ship. Getting around Rio is
EIRA fairly simple. Taxis are plentiful and cheap, and are the best
FE R R
R SÁ
option for visitors. The city’s extensive bus network can
General
Osório sometimes be daunting, as it isn’t always easy to decide
CO
A QU IM
NABU which bus to take. Although limited, the metro is efficient and
R JO
is the most convenient mode of traveling from Copacabana
Praia do PARQUE Praia do to the city center. From 2016, there will be a small light-rail
Arpoador GAROTA Diablo
DE IPANEMA
network linking the port area to Centro. It is possible to rent a
car, but first-time visitors may find driving here a little difficult.
74 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
1Street-by-Street: Praça XV
de Novembro & Centro
Originally called the Largo do Paço, Praça XV de Novembro is
the historic heart of Rio, even if it was only so named after the
declaration of the republic on November 15, 1889. The Praça
witnessed the arrival of Dom João VI of Portugal in 1808 as he
fled with his court from Napoleon. The House of the Viceroy
became the Paço Imperial, and for a time the square was the
center of Brazil’s political and commercial power. Today, Praça
XV and the surrounding area is packed with historic buildings Statue of General Osório
and streets. The square was given a new lease of life in the late General Manuel Luís Osório
1980s with the restoration of the palace, which has acted as a defended the Empire in the War
of the Triple Alliance between
catalyst in bringing culture and life back to the city center.
1864 and 1870 (see p57).
Nossa Senhora do
Monte do Carmo once
served as the royal chapel.
. Arco do Telles
Today a pedestrian exit, Arco de Telles dates IO
from 1757 and is all that remains of the old AR
ID O
V EN ANC
Senate House that was destroyed by a fire in A BR
1790. It is Rio’s only surviving colonial arch.
PR
AÇ
Statue of
A
XV
General Osório
DE
NO
VE
MB
. Paço Imperial
RO
The Paço Imperial has been the backdrop for

many key events in Brazilian history, including the
signing of the Lei Aurea in 1888, abolishing
slavery in Brazil.
0 meters 25
Chafariz da Piramide
0 yards 25 was built in 1789 to
distribute fresh water to the Barcas Metro
city and to visiting ships.
Station
Key
Practical Information
Suggested route
Rio de Janeiro.
Paço Imperial: Praça XV de
Novembro 48. Map 5 E3.
Tel (21) 2215 2431.
Open noon–6pm Tue–Sun.
Nossa Senhora da Candelária:
Locator Map Praça Pio X, Centro. Map 5 D2.
See Street Finder, map 5 Open 7:30am–4pm Mon–Fri,
8am–noon Sat, 9am–1pm Sun.
Espaço Cultural da Marinha: Av
Alfred Agache, Centro. Map 5 E2.
Tel (21) 2233 9165. Open noon–
5pm Tue–Sun.
AV
Transport
PRE
q Uruguaiana.
SV
4 Estação de Barcas.
A
RG
AS
. Nossa Senhora da
Candelária
One of Rio’s earliest
RU
AD
churches was built on this

site in 1630. The current
OR
impressive structure dates

OSA
from 1775.
RIO
O
Rç
E MA
ID
R UA
Espaço Cultural da Marinha,
the Navy’s cultural center, was
inaugurated in 1996. Located in
the old docks, the center is the
RU
starting point for tours of Baía

AD
de Guanabara.
O
OU
VID
OR
Casa França-Brasil (Franco-

Brazil Center) was opened in
1990. It is located in an 1820
O customs house.
AD
RC
ME
O
AD
RU
EK
CH
I TS
K UB
ES
PR
AV
Travessa do Comércio
This photogenic pedestrian
street beyond Arco do Telles is
lined with bars and restaurants.
Carmen Miranda lived at No. 13 as a
small girl. The street is lively at lunch
and in the evening when the bars fill up.
76 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
Two museums at the top of

Avenida Rio Branco are worth
visiting. The Museu de Arte do
Rio has exhibitions that change
regularly to show both classic
and contemporary art. The
Museu do Amanhã (Museum of
Tomorrow) is a science museum
that also encourages visitors to
consider the Earth of the future.
4 Igreja de São
Francisco da
Penitência
Detail of the gilded Baroque interior of Mosteiro de São Bento
Largo de Carioca 5, Centro. Map 5 D4.
q Carioca. Tel (21) 2262 0197. Open
2 Mosteiro de São 3 Docks & Avenida 9am–noon, 1–4pm Tue–Fri. & 8
Bento Rio Branco
Restored to its former glory, the
Rua Dom Gerardo 68 (entrance by Praça Mauá, Centro. Map 5 D2. church of São Francisco da
elevator at No. 40), Centro. Map 5 D2. q Carioca, Uruguaiana. 7
Penitência is considered one of
Tel (21) 2206 8100. q Uruguaiana. Museu de Arte do Rio: Tel (21) 3031
the richest and most beautiful
Open 7am–6pm daily. 8 7 2741. Open Tue–Sun. & 7
5 7:30am Mon–Sat, 10am & 6pm Sun. ∑ museudeartedorio.org.br
examples of Baroque art in
∑ osb.org.br Museu do Amanhã: Open Tue–Sun.
Brazil. Built between 1657 and
& 7 ∑ museudoamanha.org.br 1772, the church exhibits
Benedictine monks from various works of the Portuguese
Bahia founded the São Bento Though not as thriving as they artist Francisco Xavier de Brito.
Monastery in 1590 and much of once were, Rio’s docks remain His art heavily influenced the
the historic building, located on one of the most important in Brazilian artist Aleijadinho (see
the hills of São Bento, has been South America. The terminal in p135), whose own work
structurally untouched since it the old Touring Club do Brasil in spectacularly adorns many of
was built between 1617 and Praça Mauá is the first port of the Baroque churches of Minas
1641. The exterior of the main call for visitors who arrive in Rio Gerais. One of the church’s
building reflects the simplicity of by ship. The docks are situated highlights is the 1738 painting
the time of its construction and at the top end of Avenida Rio of the glorification of St. Francis
gives no hint of the opulence of Branco, one of Brazil’s important by Caetano da Costa Coelho,
the gilded Baroque interior. business streets. The street dates the first Brazilian painting to be
A number of the works on from 1904, when 590 buildings done in perspective.
display were carved by one of were demolished to make way The neighboring Convento
the monks, Frei Domingos da for a modern central avenue, the de Santo Antônio, dating back
Conceição (1643–1718). They spine of Rio’s financial district. A to 1615, is one of Rio’s oldest
include the main altar of the handful of early 20th-century structures. Its Baroque interiors
monastery’s church. The buildings survive, among them contain priceless colonial art
painting displayed on it, which the glorious Theatro Municipal. and azulejos (Portuguese tiles).
was created around 1676, is
dedicated to Nossa Senhora de
5 Confeitaria
Montserrat (Black Virgin).
São Bento is still very much Colombo
a working monastery. The Rua Goçalves Dias 32, Centro.
Benedictine monks are Map 5 D3. Tel (21) 2505 1500.
protective of the monastery and q Carioca. Open 9am–8pm Mon–
their work and have tried hard to Fri, 9am–5pm Sat. 7 limited.
keep the church from becoming ∑ confeitariacolombo.com.br
simply a tourist attraction. Many
areas, such as the beautiful The Colombo Tearoom dates
cloisters, remain out-of-bounds from 1894 and remains a
except on special occasions. wonderful mix of Art Nouveau
Mass for the public is said daily, and belle époque. Located in
with a full Gregorian chant at what was then the very heart of
10am on Sundays. Visitors should Rio, it was a meeting point for
remember to dress appropriately intellectuals, artists, and
if they wish to view the interior Lavish interior of the historic Confeitaria politicians. Regulars included
of the monastery. Colombo politician Ruy Barbosa, President
Getúlio Vargas, and composer ualized by Ivo Calliari (1918–

Heitor Villa-Lobos. 2005), a Catholic priest.
The mirrors were shipped in The cathedral’s first stone was
from Belgium and the marble laid on January 20, 1964, and
from Italy, while much of the the inauguration of the still
original furniture is made of unfinished building was held
Brazilian jacaranda wood. 12 years later, in 1976, marking
Visitors can savor the the 300th anniversary of the
atmosphere of Rio’s past by eat- Diocese of Rio. Standing 248 ft
ing a snack in the Bar Jardim, or (75 m) high with no interior
a meal at the restaurant. columns, this huge cathedral
has a seating capacity of 5,000
6 Theatro
and can accommodate up to
20,000 people standing. The
Municipal & interior is dominated by four
Cinelândia magnificent stained-glass win-
dows that stretch 197 ft (60 m)
Av Rio Branco, Centro. Map 5 D4.
Tel (21) 2332 9191.
Stained-glass window at the Catedral to the ceiling. They represent
q Cinelândia. 8 7 Metropolitana the apostolic (yellow), Catholic
∑ theatromunicipal.rj.gov.br (blue), ecclesiastical (green),
reopened a year later as the and saintly (red) traditions.
Rio’s Municipal Theater, built headquarters of the Rio Film The Museu Arquidiocesano
between 1905 and 1909, is Festival. Other buildings in de Arte Sacra (Sacred Art
the main venue for the city’s the area include the Museu Museum) in the basement
ballet, opera, and orchestra Nacional de Belas Artes (see includes historical items in its
(including the Brazilian p78), Biblioteca Nacional, and collection, such as the
Symphony Orchestra), and Palácio Pedro Ernesto. baptismal fonts used for
continues to attract the very christening the Brazilian royal
best talent from both Brazil family, the golden rose gifted to
and abroad. Illustrious names 7 Catedral Princess Isabel by Pope Leo XIII
include Nijinsky, Sarah Bernhard, Metropolitana to celebrate her signing the
Anna Pavlova, and Luciano abolition of slavery, and the
Av República do Chile 245, Centro.
Pavarotti, to name just a few. throne of Dom Pedro II.
Map 5 D4. Tel (21) 2240 2669.
Farther south along Avenida q Cinelândia. Open 7:30am–6pm
Rio Branco is the heart of daily. 7 5 11am Mon–Fri, 10am Sat
Cinelândia or “cinema land,” & Sun. Museu Arquidiocesano de Arte 8 Santa Teresa
the area around which the Sacra: Open 10am–4pm Wed, 9am– Santa Teresa, Centro.
city’s movie houses sprang noon, 1–4pm Sat, 9am–noon Sun. 7 q Cruz Vermelha.
up in the 1920s. Many are ∑ catedral.com.br
still in operation, most notably At the top of the Santa Teresa
the Cine Odeon BR which Rio’s striking Metropolitan hill, the neigborhood of Santa
opened in 1926 and closed Cathedral, with its truncated Teresa offers a magnificent view
in 1999 to be renovated. It conical shape, was concept- of the city, particularly from
Parque das Ruínas. Its colonial
charm has been retained
through a resistance to devel-
opment, and it is famed for its
winding cobbled streets, old
mansions, and for being an
artistic hot spot. The construc-
tion of the Santa Teresa convent
in the 18th century marked the
beginning of the development
of this area, and it is a popular
tourist site, with restaurants,
live music, cultural centers, and
other attractions. A ride on the
distinctive yellow streetcar, the
Bondinho de Santa Teresa, is an
experience not to be missed. This
is the last of the many streetcars
that used to crisscross the city,
and it connects the neighbor-
Opulent façade of the Theatro Municipal hood with downtown Rio.
78 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
used by Princess Isabel to sign

the decree abolishing slavery.
Apart from displaying period
furniture, 19th-century firearms,
and locomotives, the museum
also traces Brazil’s colonial past
in its charts and written
declarations. The building is one
of the oldest in Rio, with a
portion belonging to Santiago
Fort, dating from 1603.
A Batalha do Avaí (1877) by Pedro Américo, Museu Nacional de Belas Artes

w Museu de Arte
9 Lapa permanent art collections in Latin Moderna
Lapa, Centro. q Carioca. America. The building in which
Av Infante Dom Henrique 85, Centro.
it is housed dates from 1908. Map 5 F5. Tel (21) 2240 4944.
The most famous image of The collection, which has over q Cinelândia. Open noon–6pm
the area known as Lapa is the 16,000 pieces in its archive, Tue–Fri, noon–7pm Sat, Sun & public
Arcos da Lapa, an aqueduct features Brazilian artists from the hols (last adm half hour before closing).
built in 1724 to bring water colonial period as well as from & 8 7 ∑ mamrio.com.br
down from the Santa Teresa the 19th and 20th centuries.
forest to the public fountain in Artists include Frans Post, who Rio’s Modern Art Museum (MAM)
Largo da Carioca. In 1896, it painted Brazilian landscapes in has one of the best collections
became the base for the viaduct classical Dutch style, the of 20th-century art in Brazil,
that carries streetcars to and Frenchman Jean Baptiste Debret, surpassed only by MASP in São
from the city center. who painted the immortal Battle Paulo (see p147). The museum
Lapa has always had a slightly of Guararapes (1879), Vitor also houses one of the largest
bohemian feel and during the Meireles, and Pedro Américo, archives of Brazilian films.
first half of the 1900s was the whose A Batalha do Avaí (1877) is The strikingly modern
center of Rio’s alternative one of the largest paintings in building that houses the MAM
nightlife. The area still boasts a the world painted on an easel. was far ahead of its time in its
vibrant nightlife, attracting There is also a gallery for design and architecture when
people from all over the city contemporary exhibits. it was built in 1958. In 1978, a
who come looking for the best The gallery has an extensive major fire destroyed many of its
of Brazilian music. Key hot spots collection of non-Brazilian works irreplaceable exhibits, including
include Rio Scenarium, Carioca and a particularly fine selection the works of Miró, Picasso,
de Gema, and Dama da Noite. In of Baroque Italian art dating Salvador Dalí, Max Ernst, and
2004, the area saw the return of from the 17th and 18th René Magritte. It has taken time
the Circo Voador (Flying Circus), centuries. The museum was and the generosity of collectors
now held in a purpose-built created on the basis of a prized in Brazil and abroad to rebuild
music venue that replaced the art collection, brought to Brazil the collection. Today, the MAM
earlier tent of the 1980s and from Europe by Portugal’s King is once more a highly regarded
early 1990s. Many of the leading Dom João VI and his court institution, not only for its own
names in contemporary when they fled Napoleon in archive but also for the visiting
Brazilian music – including Seu 1808 (see p56). exhibitions from around the
Jorge – got their first break at world that it stages through
the Circo Voador. the year.
q Museu Histórico
F Circo Voador Nacional
Rua dos Arcos, Lapa. Tel (21) 2533
Praça Marechal Âncora.
0354. Open for shows only. & 7
Map 5 F4. Tel (21) 2550 9224.
q Cinelândia. Open 10am–6pm
Tue–Fri, 2–6pm Sat, Sun & public
0 Museu Nacional
hols. & 7 restricted.
de Belas Artes ∑ museuhistoriconacional.com.br
Av Rio Branco 199, Centro. Map 5 E4.
Tel (21) 2240 0068. q Cinelândia.
Founded in 1922, the country’s
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, noon–5pm leading history museum
Sat, Sun & public hols. & free on Sun. recounts the history of Brazil up
8 by appt. 7 ∑ mnba.gov.br to 1889. Its collection of 287,000
pieces includes everything from
The National Museum of Fine paintings and coins to carriages Entrance to the Museu de Arte Moderna
Arts is one of the most important and rarities such as the pen (MAM)
Located close to its gardens is a Portugal in 1808. Known for its all of whom feature in the
monument to the victims of hand-painted tiles dating from museum’s various exhibits.
World War II. Inaugurated in the 1730s, it was declared a Apart from the museum and
1960, it represents two arms national monument by palace, there is also an attractive
raised with hands outstretched President Vargas in 1937. garden on the grounds.
in prayer. In 1980, Pope John The church can be reached by
Paul II said mass from the steps car, or by foot up the steps
of the monument to a crowd known as Ladeira de Nossa t Museu Carmen
of more than 2 million people. Senhora. It is also possible to Miranda
Below the monument is a take a small cable car from Rua
Av Rui Barbosa, Flamengo.
museum describing Brazil’s do Russel 312. There are views Tel (21) 2334 4293. q Flamengo.
participation in the Allied across the bay and there is also Open 11am–5pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat,
operations, known as the Italian a small sacred art museum. Sun & public hols.
Campaign, in and around Italy
between 1944 and 1945. Fans of Carmen Miranda will not
r Museu da want to miss this small museum
República in Flamengo Park. One of the
most famous Brazilians of all
Rua do Catete 153, Catete. Tel (21)
time, Maria do Carmo Miranda
3235 3693. q Catete. Open 8am–
da Cunha was born in Portugal in
6pm daily (to 7pm in summer). & 8
∑ museudarepublica.org.br 1909, but moved to Rio with her
family as a baby. Carmen cut her
The story of Brazil’s history, as told first record in 1929, but it was the
by the Museum of the Republic, big screen that would make her
picks up where the Museu a global star. Her first film in 1932
Histórico Nacional left off. It shot her to international star-
begins with the Proclamation of dom, and in 1941, she became
the Republic in 1889, and covers the first South American with a
events until 1960, when the star on the Hollywood Walk of
capital and the then president, Fame. After her death on August
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do Outeiro Kubitschek, moved from Rio de 5, 1955, her body was returned
rising above tree tops Janeiro to Brasília. What makes to Rio where a crowd of almost
the museum particularly special 500,000 watched her burial.
e Igreja Nossa is that its building, constructed The museum exhibits icono-
Senhora da Glória between 1858 and 1866, was the graphic costumes, including
presidential residence from 1897 her tall fruit hats and platform-
do Outeiro until 1954. In that year, President heeled shoes, and artifacts
Praça Nossa Senhora da Glória 135, Getúlio Vargas (see pp60–61), belonging to Carmen, as well as
Glória. Tel (21) 2557 4600. q Glória. Brazil’s most influential statesman many of her records and films.
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Fri, 8am–noon who was president for 24 years, This collection will be moved
Sat & Sun. 5 9am–noon, 1–5pm committed suicide in his to the Museu da Imagem e do
Mon–Fri, 9–11am Sun. bedroom. The third floor is Som (see p82) in Copacabana in
∑ outeirodagloria.org.br
dedicated to an exhibition about late 2015/early 2016.
Most visitors to downtown Rio the life and work of Vargas. His
cannot help but notice the bedroom has been preserved
beautiful octagonal church of exactly as it used to be when he y Oi Futuro
Our Lady of Gloria, as it sits lived here. In total, the palace was Ipanema
majestically on top of a hill home to 18 Brazilian presidents,
Rua Visconde de Piraja 53 (Third Floor).
beside the freeways cutting
Tel (21) 3201 3010. Open 1–9pm Tue–
through Flamengo Park.
Sun. ∑ oifuturo.org.br
The spot where the church
was built, in 1714, was first used A renovated 1918 building near
as a place of worship in 1608, Ipanema beach houses Oi Futuro,
when the image of Our Lady of a hypermodern cultural center
Gloria was placed in a grotto. The for art and technology. It hosts
land was donated to the church innovative exhibitions of avant-
in 1699 by the nobleman garde visual arts with multimedia
Cláudio Gurgel do Amaral. installations that blend art forms
The church, which was such as painting, photography,
completed in 1739, came to film, music, and poetry. There are
national attention when it also film screenings, dance
became the favorite place of performances, and concerts of
worship for Dom Pedro VI and Attractive garden outside the Museu experimental musical styles from
his family after their arrival from da República all over the world.
80 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
u Sugar Loaf Mountain

Guarding the entrance to Guanabara Bay, the monolithic
granite and quartz Sugar Loaf rises 1,300 ft (396 m) above the
waters of the southern Atlantic Ocean. From the summit, it is
easy to understand why the early explorers believed that they
had sailed into the mouth of a great river they christened Rio
de Janeiro. The Sugar Loaf experience takes in two mountains,
Morro do Urca and Pão de Açúcar (Sugar Loaf). It is possible
to scale both these mountains via organized climbs on most
weekends. Demanding less effort, the cable car, originally
opened in 1912, stops at the 705-ft- (224-m-) high Morro da The original 1912 cable car, a remarkable
Urca before ascending to the summit. feat of its times
Pão de Açúcar
The name of Sugar Loaf, adopted in the 19th century,
is assumed to have been derived from the mountain’s
shape, which resembles conical clay molds used earlier
to refine sugar. The Tupi Indians, however, called it “Pau-
nh-Açuquã” (high, pointed, or isolated hill).
KEY
1 The summit provides

unforgettable views out over
Copacabana, Ipanema, and the
scenic Corcovado and Tijuca.
2 Helisight, with a heliport base at
Morro da Urca, offers flights around
Sugar Loaf and Corcovado (see
pp86–7).
3 Morro da Urca The flat summit
of Morro da Urca has restaurants,
bars, and a theater that hosts
popular shows, concerts, and even
Carnaval balls.
4 Wooded Trails A series of trails
that lead to a number of good
climbing locations wind their way up
to the summit. The trails are also an Rock Climbing
ideal place to spot marmosets. Since British nanny
Henrietta Carstairs made
5 Cable car station at Praia the first recorded solo
Vermelha ascent in 1817, climbing
6 Boats can be hired at many key the smooth Sugar Loaf
locations for an enjoyable ride in has become a popular
the calm waters to the base of sport, with over 60
Sugar Loaf. known routes to the
towering summit.
Av Pasteur 520, Praia Vermelha,
Urca. Tel (21) 2546 8400. & 0
= ∑ bondinho.com.br
Helisight: Tel (21) 2511 2141.
Cable Car: Praia Vermelha.
Open 8am–9pm (ticket booth
closes at 7:50pm).
Transport
@ 107, 511, 512 & 2011.
Cable Car Ride
The current Italian cable system carries as many as 1,360 passengers
every hour. The glass walls of the cable car allow sweeping views of
the city.
Rio City at Night

The city of Rio de Janeiro boasts a
stunning nightscape. The magnificent
Sugar Loaf remains illuminated, even in
the dead of the night, by powerful 1,000-
watt projectors.
James Bond’s Moonraker

In 1979, Sugar Loaf and the cable car
formed the backdrop for a main action
sequence in Moonraker, with Roger
Moore playing James Bond. In real life,
the Great Train Robber, Ronald Biggs,
was kidnapped in 1981 by a group of
British mercenaries from a restaurant,
which was then located next to the
cable car station. Ironically, during a
first kidnap bid in 1979, the kidnappers
had claimed to be part of the
Moonraker crew.
A scene from the film Moonraker
82 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
Palace hotel (see p370), a part

of the fabric of Rio life since its
opening in 1923. It has hosted
both authentic royalty and the
royalty of the entertainment
world, including Queen
Elizabeth II and Marlene
Dietrich. The hotel continues
to draw celebrities, as well as
gays and transvestites.
The Museu da Imagem e
Bustling Copacabana beach, popular with locals and vacationers do Som (Museum of Image
and Sound) places an emphasis
i Copacabana Built in 1914, on the on the history of Brazilian music.
q Siqueira Campos. n Av Princesa promontory of the chapel as It will soon also house the
Isabel 183, (21) 2541 7522, Rio’s defense against attack, Carmen Miranda collection
2542 8084. the Forte de Copacabana that is currently on display in
offers scenic views of the entire Flamengo (see p79).
One of the world’s most sweep of Copacabana. The beachfront kiosk bars
celebrated beaches, The main attraction of lining Avenue Atlântica – the
Copacabana is the center of Copacabana is the beach road that runs the length of
Rio’s tourist trade. On New Year’s which, along with Leme, the beach – are popular. The
eve, the neighborhood constitutes a magnificent entire length of Copacabana is
becomes Rio’s spiritual and 3-mile (5-km) stretch from divided into stations (postos).
festive heart, as millions of Le Meridien hotel in the north Postos 5 and 6 attract older
Cariocas and visitors take to the on the corner of Avenida residents and favela youngsters.
beach to party, and honor Princesa Isabel, to the Forte The fresh catch of the day
Yemanjá, Goddess of the Sea. de Copacabana and Sofitel can be bought at Posto 7 –
The name Copacabana, or Rio in the south. Until 1892, at the southern end – known
“Copa Caguana” (Luminous it had been a leading trek for as the posto de pescadores
Place) in Quechua, an ancient those from the city to reach (fisherman’s post).
language still spoken in Peru, Copacabana. In that year, a
was given by the Incas to a tunnel was cut through from P Forte de Copacabana
lovely site by the Lagoa Titicaca, Botafogo to Copacabana, Av Atlântica Posto 6. Tel (21) 2521
where they built a temple. In followed by a second tunnel 1032. Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun.
the 17th century, the captain in 1904 that allowed the &87
of a Spanish galleon erected a trams to reach the beach. E Museu da Imagem e do Som
chapel in honor of Our Lady of The real turning point, Av Atlântica 3432. Tel (21) 2146 1579.
Copacabana, who came to his however, was the creation of Open see website for times.
aid during a shipwreck. the Neo-Classical Copacabana ∑ mis.rj.gov.br & 8 7
Map of Copacabana, Ipanema & Leblon

S
DO
O
R R ITOS
O BR
CA
M
AV ATA LEBLON L agoa

UL FO D Rodr igo Túnel Major
E PA Clube de Regatas AV Rubens Vaz
VIA EP de F r eit as
Flamengo I TÁ
CI
AV D la O
PE
ELFI A SS
M M
O REI de OA
RA Cantagalo
im
d
Garcia
Jar
Praia do Leblon D’Ávila RU

A
VI
IPANEMA MORRO DOS
SC Museu da
AV ON CABRITOS
AT EN DE Imagem e
LA ID
A
DE Túnel Pref. do Som
A
PIR
NT VI
AN
EIR AJ Sá Freire Alvin

IC Á
AB
Praia de A
SO
AC
Ipanema UT
General
IC
O
OP
NT
OC
AC
Osório
LÂ
SE H O R
EA
AT
Feira Hippie
IDA
N
A
AV E N
AV NOSS
0 meters 500 Praia do

Arpoador Forte de
0 yards 500 Casssino Copacabana
Shopping Centre
Praia do
For keys to symbols see back flap Diablo
The Girl from Ipanema

One of the most played and recorded
songs in popular music history, “The Girl
from Ipanema,” or “A Garota de Ipanema,”
was written in 1962 by Antônio Carlos
Jobim and Vinícius de Moraes. The duo
are said to have been inspired by a
sensual girl from Ipanema, Helô Pinheiro.
A year later, the recording of the song’s
most famous version took place in New
York’s A&R Studio, featuring João and
Astrud Gilberto
Astrud Gilberto, in the Portuguese and
English versions, respectively. In 1964,
Stan Getz, Jobim, and the Gilbertos took bossa nova to a global
Exterior of an upmarket jewelry store audience with the release of Getz/Gilberto. With “The Girl from
in Ipanema Ipanema” as the opening track, the album stayed in the US charts
for 96 weeks and won four Grammys.
o Ipanema
q General Osório. Feira Hippie de
Leblon are considered the Ferreira, at the most westerly
Ipanema: Praça General de Osório.
Open 7am–7pm daily. most desirable places to live point, boasts a particularly
in Rio. More residential than eclectic mix. Like Ipanema,
Almost as famous as Copacabana, Ipanema is also there are only a few hotels
Copacabana, Ipanema shot into more stylish, with its back along the beachfront Avenida
the limelight in the 1960s with streets dotted with chic Delfim Moreira.
the globally famous song boutiques, bars, restaurants, While the beaches of
written by Antônio Jobim and and nightclubs. Copacabana and Leme flow
Vinícius de Moraes, “The Girl The most prestigious address seamlessly into each other,
from Ipanema” (see p36). in Rio is Avenida Vieira Souto, Leblon and Ipanema are
The actual name of this while running parallel, two separated by Jardim de Alá and
fashionable area is credited to streets back, is Rua Visconde de the canal that links the Lagoa
the native Tupi-Guaraní who Pirajá, the backbone to the Rodrigo de Freitas with the sea.
called the area Y-panema, or Ipanema shopping experience. The 1-mile- (2-km-) long Leblon
“rough water.” The first non- At the Copacabana end is Praça is said to have been given its
native residents moved into the General Osório, the public square name in honor of a blond
area around 1884, and today that plays host to Rio’s popular foreigner, one of the first
Ipanema and neighboring Feira Hippie de Ipanema residents in the area. The
(Hippie Fair), every Sunday. nationality of “Le Blond” is
The fair has been a part debatable. Some scholars say
of life in Ipanema and that he was French, while others
MORRO DE surmise he was Dutch.
Rio since opening
S ÃO J O Ã O
R F IG
in 1968. Leblon is the headquarters of

RUA
U
REIR
The mile-long Clube de Regatas Flamengo, of

SAN
AV PRIN CES A ISAB
Siqueira Arcoverde
EDO
stretch of Ipanema which the most famous is the

Campos
TA C
beach runs from Flamengo Football Club, the

DE M
Leblon in the west, World Club Champions in 1981.

LA
AG
RA
COPACABANA up to Arpoador in
ALHÃ
Copacabana the east. Arpoador

ES
EL
Palace Hotel extends the beach

A
TIC by another half-mile,
LÂN
AT
DA and is popular with
E NI
AV
Praia de
Copacabana the surf set.
p Leblon
@ Copacabana.
For many years, Leblon sat

in the shadow of Ipanema.
But today it is considered as
fashionable and desirable as its
neighbor, with perhaps an even
greater density and mix of bars, The exclusive Leblon neighborhood and its
clubs, and restaurants. Rua Dias fashionable beach
84 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
year round, so it is easy to catch

the action. The club will allow
even non-members and visitors
into the members’ stand to
enjoy the race.
The track first opened in
1926, with the main stand
designed in a Louis XV style.
In total, there are five stands,
a paddock, a turf track, two
sand tracks, and an equestrian
village. The biggest race of the
year – and one of South
America’s most important –
View of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas and Jóquei Clube Brasileiro from Corcovado is the Grande Prêmio Brasil
do Turfe, that was first run in
a Lagoa Rodrigo center. Several international 1933. It traditionally takes
de Freitas regattas have been held here. place every August.
Visitors can go boating, as
Lagoa. Map 2 A3. @ 7 pedallos and other craft are
∑ lagoarodrigodefreitas.com.br
available for rent. It is also d Jardim Botânico
The picturesque Lagoa Rodrigo possible to rent bicycles.
Rua Jardim Botânico 920 & 1008,
de Freitas, or Lagoa (lagoon) The Fundação Eva Klabin is
Gávea. Map 1 A1. Tel (21) 3874 1808.
as it is often called, sits at the one of Rio’s prolific cultural @ Open 8am–5pm daily (Mon: from
foot of Corcovado peak and centers and museums. Its noon). Closed Jan 1 & Dec 25. & 8
separates the Serra da Carioca exhibits are part of the private 7 restricted. ∑ jbrj.gov.br
from Ipanema and Leblon. A full collection of Eva Klabin, whose
circuit of the lagoon is about family made a fortune in paper Rio’s fascinating Jardim
5 miles (8 km) and is popular in the mid-20th century. Botânico was founded in 1808
with joggers, cyclists, and The scenic Parque da by the Prince Regent, Dom
parents with children in prams. Catacumba around Lagoa is João VI. Originally meant to
There are plenty of halts en interspersed with sculptures by acclimatize plants and spices
route, with kiosks selling artists Roberto Moriconi, Bruno coming from the Orient and
everything from coconut water Giorgi, and Caribé. Monkeys roam the East Indies, it later became
to full meals. Some kiosks even the park, which offers views over the Royal Garden and opened
offer live music in the evenings. the Lagoa and toward Ipanema. to the public in 1822. Among its
The Lagoa is also bordered by many illustrious visitors were
more conventional restaurants E Fundação Eva Klabin Charles Darwin in 1832 and
and bars, especially along the Av Epitácio Pessoa 2480. Tel (21) 3282 Albert Einstein in 1925.
Ipanema stretch. One of Rio’s 8558. Open 2:30–4pm Tue–Fri, hours Today, Jardim Botânico
most traditional places, Bar vary according to exhibition. includes an area of natural
Lagoa (see p387) opened here Y Parque da Catacumba rainforest, and is home to many
in 1934. Along the northern Av Epitácio Pessoa 3000. Tel (21) 2521 species of plants, as well as
shore, highlights include Claude 5540. Open 8am–5pm daily. innumerable types of birds
Troisgros’ Olympe (see p388), E Sociedade Hípica Brasileira and animals. However, the
which, despite a change in Av Borges de Medeiros 2448.
name since it opened in 1983, is Tel (21) 2156 0191. Open only
still one of Rio’s best restaurants. for events. & 7
Several sports clubs are also
located here. Among the most
famous are the Jockey Club s Jóquei Clube
Brasileiro, the Sociedade Hípica Brasileiro
Brasileira, the city’s main Rua Jardim Botânico 1003, Gávea.
equestrian center, and the Map 1 A2. Tel (21) 3534 9000.
headquarters of the Clube q Botafogo. @ Open from 6:30pm
Regatas do Flamengo. Mon, from 3:30pm Fri, from 7am Sat &
Flamengo, along with Vasco Sun. & 7 ∑ jcb.com.br
da Gama, Fluminense, and
Botafogo, is one of Brazil’s top With a great view of the Lagoa
soccer teams and has won the and the Corcovado mountain,
National and South American the Jockey Club has one of the
titles on many occasions. All most spectacular settings of any
clubs have rowing divisions as racecourse in the world. Races A track lined with palm trees in Jardim
the Lagoa is Brazil’s main rowing are held four days a week, all Botânico
garden’s signature are the g Museu Villa-

200 imperial palms that line Lobos
its main avenues.
Jardim Botânico has other Rua Sorocaba 200, Botafogo.
attractions within its grounds. Tel (21) 2226 9818. q Botafogo.
These include Rio’s original Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri. 8
∑ museuvillalobos.org.br
gunpowder factory dating from
1808, the old gates of the Fine With over 1,000 compositions
Arts Academy, and the to his credit, Heitor Villa-Lobos
Empress’s Mansion, which (1897–1959) is considered one
became the headquarters of of the greatest composers in
the National School of Tropical Latin America (see p36). It is
Botany in 2001. believed that it was through
his work that Brazilian music
first became popular abroad,
f Museu do Índio eventually gaining universal
Rua das Palmeiras 55, Botafogo. appeal with the advent of Stately building housing the Museu Casa de
Tel (21) 3214 8702. q Botafogo. bossa nova. Rui Barbosa
Open 9am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 1–5pm The Villa-Lobos Museum,
Sat, Sun & public hols. & 8 which moved to a stately 19th- h Museu Casa de
∑ museudoindio.org.br century mansion in Botafogo in
1986, helps organize the Villa-
Rui Barbosa
Founded in 1953, the Museum Lobos Festival that begins on Rua São Clemente 134, Botafogo.
of the Indian is run by the the anniversary of his death, Tel (21) 3289 4600. q Botafogo.
National Indian Foundation November 17, each year. His Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Fri, 2–6pm
second wife, Arminda Neves Sat & Sun. & free on Sun. 8
(Funai) with the aim of giving
∑ casaruibarbosa.gov.br
an insight into the lives of d’Almeida, set up the museum
Brazil’s Indian and indigenous in 1960, one year after his death.
groups. Housed in a 19th- Its aim is to preserve the A renowned politician,
century mansion, this dynamic composer’s personal collection diplomat, and jurist, Rui Barbosa
institution has more than 14,000 of artifacts and keep his work de Oliveira (1849–1923) helped
indigenous artifacts, 50,000 alive. Exhibits include his books, shape several important
photographs, and over 200 music scores, photographs, Brazilian policies, including
films. With 16,000 books and and instruments. those pertaining to direct
magazines, it also has one of Villa-Lobos’s best-known work elections and the abolition of
the most complete libraries is his cycle of the nine Bachianas slavery. He made his mark inter-
covering topics related to Brasileiras, which pays homage nationally during the 1907
indigenous peoples. to both Bach and Brazilian folk Peace Conference at the Hague,
There are several permanent music. Such was his versatility where he argued that all
exhibits in the gardens, includ- that he wrote a variety of music countries should be treated
ing a Guaraní house and farm from choros (an upbeat waltz or equally. Barbosa contested
field, a Xingu kitchen and house, polka), concertos, symphonies, twice for the Brazilian
and Kuarup ritual tree trunks. and orchestral works, to presidency – in 1910 and 1919 –
There is also a well-stocked chamber music, operas, and but lost on both occasions.
store that sells genuine ballets, as well as guitar and Barbosa was also a great
indigenous artifacts. solo piano pieces. essayist and was one of the
founders (and later president) of
the Brazilian Academy of Letters.
He was eventually elected as a
judge to the International Court
of Justice at the Hague.
The 1850 building that houses
the Rui Barbosa Museum was
the statesman’s home from
1895 until his death in 1923.
When it opened to the public
in 1930, it was the first private
residence in Brazil to be turned
into a museum. The museum
showcases a collection of
Barbosa’s personal possessions,
such as furniture and art, and
a library containing 200 of his
Indigenous roundhouse on the grounds of Museu do Índio own works.
86 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
jMorro do Corcovado &

Cristo Redentor
The 2,316-ft (706-m) Corcovado mountain derives its
name from corcova (hunchback), which describes the
physical appearance of the mountain itself. On the
summit, the iconic Cristo Redentor statue towers over
Rio, and is Brazil’s most recognizable landmark. It was
officially inaugurated in 1931 to mark the centenary of
Brazil’s independence. The enormous statue sits in the
center of the gorgeous tropical jungle of Parque Making the Head
Nacional da Tijuca. Work on the statue began in Paris in
1926, with French sculptor Paul
Landowski working on the head and
hands. The head alone weighs 30 tons.
The Statue
Having been shipped from France to Brazil,
the 98-ft (30-m) statue was faced in
limestone and hauled up the mountain by
rail to be assembled and attached to
Wide Open Arms supporting pillars.
The entire Rio City is
embraced by Christ,
and the statue’s open Morro d
a
Formiga
arms are seen as a
testament to the warmth of
the Brazilians.
E
STR DO C
Alto da
Boa Vista OR
COVADO
Mo rro d a
C o rco va d o
J
Cristo
Redentor
0 km 2
Famous Visitors 0 miles 2
Pope John Paul II, Pope Pius XII, and Albert

Einstein are some of the famous people to
have visited Corcovado.
Morro do Corcovado. h at
the base of Cristo Redentor.
n Corcovado, (21) 2558 1329.
Open 8:30am–6:30pm daily
(entrance at Parque Nacional
da Tijuca).
∑ corcovado.com.br
Transport
£ Cosme Velhostation, Rua
. Museu Internacional de Arte Naïf Cosme Velho 513, 8:30am–7pm
The museum has one of the largest collections of naive art in the daily. @ 180, 184, 583 & 584.
world, featuring more than 6,000 works, dating from the 15th century
to the present.
Centro Rio
de Janeiro
Largo do
COSME Boticário
VELHO Parque Nacional Da Tijuca
Estação da Estrada The statue of Christ sits in this scenic national
Centro Rio de Ferro Corcovado Museu
Internacional park, which contains the world’s largest
de Janeiro
de Arte Naïf urban forest – Floresta da Tijuca. Dotted
with natural springs, the park is home to
more than 200 species of birds and
ta
several small mammals. It draws regular
NTE
ar J crowds of resident Cariocas, especially
IRA
M
M na on the weekend (see p92).
TA
R AL Do
AR
ro
M
or
A
ON
M D
SILVESTRE IRANT
E
RM
EST
DAS PAINEIRA
EST R S
P a r q ue
Nac ion a l d a T ij u c a
UÇAS
AS
REBOUÇ
IO REBO
Key
TÚNEL ANDRÉ
TÚNEL ANTÔN
Major road
Cog Train
Other road Passing through the dense
Minor road Atlantic rainforest, the train ride
Cog train route up the summit is a plus. The line
was originally built in 1882 by
Tunnels
Dom Pedro II; the current Swiss
Park boundary train dates from 1979.
KEY
1 Escalators link the base to the

train station and car park.
2 The pedestal, on which the
statue stands, is 26 ft (8 m) high.
3 The chapel at the base of
the statue can accommodate
150 people.
4 Largo do Boticário is a lovely
square surrounded by seven private
houses. Colonial in appearance, the
houses date from around 1920. . Stunning Views
5 Mirante Dona Marta offers Corcovado is located right in the center of Rio and can be seen
splendid views of Rio City. from most areas of the city. The views over and across Rio from
the summit offer a sweeping aerial panorama.

88 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
k Estádio do the Empress Teresa Cristina,

Maracanã who was an archaeologist.
The museum’s gardens and
Rua Prof. Eurico Rabelo (gate 18), the former royal palace are
Maracanã. Tel (21) 8871 3950. an attraction in their own right,
q Maracanã. Open 9am–10pm
and their lakes and grottos are
for tours. & 8 7
a big draw on the weekends.
Rio’s Maracanã Stadium is They were landscaped by the
one of the most famous French architect Auguste
soccer grounds in the world. Glaziou in 1869.
It is also the largest, having The Jardim Zoológico is
hosted crowds of up to considered one of the best in the
200,000 people. world and is Brazil’s oldest zoo,
The stadium, which was having been founded in 1888.
refurbished for the 2007 Pan- It is home to approximately 350
American Games, was built Rio Zoo’s main gate, gifted to Dom Pedro I species and more than 2,100
for the 1950 World Cup and by an English aristocrat animals, including one of the
inaugurated on June 16 the most complete collections of
same year, with a game l Quinta da Boa Brazilian mammals and butter-
between Rio and São Paulo. Vista flies. Particular highlights are the
The first game played by the Av Pedro II (between Rua Almirante
Brazilian monkeys and birds.
Brazilian team took place on Baltazar & Rua Dom Meinrdo, São The zoo also boasts an excellent
June 24, 1950, with Brazil Cristóvão). q São Cristóvão. aviary and an aquarium that
beating Mexico 4–0. A month Museu Nacional: Tel (21) 2562 6900. houses a variety of fascinating
later, a crowd of almost 200,000 Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. Brazilian river species.
tested the stadium’s capacity to Closed Jan 1, Dec 25, Carnaval & The zoo’s beautiful main
see Brazil play Uruguay in the Good Friday. & Jardim Zoológico: entrance was a wedding gift,
final game. Brazil lost 2–1, and Tel (21) 2567 9504. Open 9am– presented to Dom Pedro I and
thus began its eternal rivalry 4:30pm Tue–Sun. the Empress Leopoldina by an
with Uruguay. English aristocrat in the early
It is not only soccer that has The Quinta da Boa Vista, the 19th century.
set stadium records. Big artists landscaped grounds of a former
have attracted massive crowds royal estate, includes the Museu
to the Maracanã, including Nacional and the Jardim z Sambódromo &
Frank Sinatra, Paul McCartney, Zoológico (Rio Zoo). Founded Cidade do Samba
Kiss, Madonna, the Rolling by Dom João VI in 1818, the Av Marquês de Sapucaí, Centro.
Stones, Sting, Tina Turner, and Museu Nacional is the country’s Map 4 A4. Tel (21) 2563 9000.
the second “Rock in Rio” oldest scientific institution, q Praça XI. Open 9am–4pm daily.
Festival. Pope John Paul II’s which started out as the House 7 Cidade do Samba: Rua Rivadávia
public appearances in 1980 of Birds before becoming the Correa 60, Gamboa. Tel (21) 2213
and 1997 were also attended Royal Museum, the Imperial 2503. Open 9am–5pm Wed–Mon;
by thousands. Museum, and, finally, the shows: 9am–11pm Thu. 7
The Maracanã Stadium National Museum. ∑ cidadedosambarj.com.br
can be visited on the days of Its permanent exhibits cover
soccer matches and concerts a variety of fields from The Sambódromo, or
(see p98), or as part of a daily archaeology, biodiversity, and Passarela do Samba, is where
guided tour that takes visitors botany to ethnology, geology, Rio’s famous samba schools
behind the scenes and onto and palaeontology. A part of the parade each February during
the pitch. In 2014, it hosted the collection belonged to Emperor Carnaval (see pp68–9).
World Cup final. Pedro II, a botanist, and his wife, Before Carnaval was as
popular as it is today, the
schools simply paraded on the
streets and people stood on the
sidewalk, and later, on specially
built stands. As the crowds got
bigger, the disruption caused by
the building of the stands each
year meant another solution
had to be found.
The renowned Brazilian
architect, Oscar Niemeyer (see
p299), came up with a perman-
ent solution. He built what is
Aerial view of the spectacular Estádio do Maracanã today the Sambódromo, which
the headquarters for the Trade

Association and the Bank of
Brazil. In 1989 the building was
converted into a major cultural
center consisting of three
theaters, four exhibition rooms,
a cinema, and a bookstore.
The gallery spaces offer a
wide selection of changing
exhibitions, ranging from
paintings and sculpture to
photography. There is one
permanent exhibition on the
evolution of Brazil’s currency.
The Sambódromo, venue of Rio’s annual Carnaval The cinema screens art films
and hosts experimental film
was inaugurated in time for the x Centro Cultural festivals, while the theaters
1984 Carnaval. In order to do Banco do Brasil stage dance performances,
complement the Sambódromo, lunchtime and evening
a large complex, known as the Rua Primeiro de Março 66, Centro. concerts of both classical and
Cidade do Samba (City of Map 5 E3. Tel (21) 3808 2020. modern music, as well as plays.
q Carioca. Open 9am–9pm Tue–
Samba), was established in Many of the cultural center’s
Sun. 0 - ∑ bb.com.br/cultura
2005. This space is used by the events are free of charge (see
main samba schools to build Located in what used to be also pp98–9).
their floats and make their the financial quarter of Rio de The building itself is worth
vibrant costumes. Janeiro’s Centro district and a visit; it consists of imposing
Throughout the year, visitors housed in an impressive columns and a rotunda
are allowed in to watch the building dating from 1880, the (the old trading floor stock
preparations and see how a Centro Cultural do Banco do exchange), a marbled lobby,
samba school puts on its parade. Brasil (CCBB) was originally and grand staircases.
Rio’s Favelas
As much a part of the city’s landscape as Corcovado and Sugar Loaf, Rio’s favelas are famous, lately
due to their prominence in Fernando Meirelles’ 2002 film, Cidade de Deus (City of God). They are
often erroneously referred to as slums, and while some are, the majority are simply Rio’s main
areas of poor housing. What started as one or two shacks on a hillside has slowly grown into cities
in their own right. Estimates suggest that there are now as many as 800 favelas in Rio, and up to
20 percent of the city’s population may now
live in these areas. Some favelas have grown
into giant communities, such as Rocinha in São
Conrado, with over 150,000 residents. Others,
such as Pavão, Cantagalo, Vidigal, and Chapéu
Mangueira, are strategically located in hilly
Zona Sul areas offering breathtaking views.
Favelas are complex and vibrant communities,
deriving their name from the hardy favela plant.
Many still have drug lords who run boca de
fumos, where narcotics are openly sold and
violence is not uncommon. However, the idea
that these ghettos are dangerous warrens full of
criminals is simply misplaced, as the majority
of people who live here are law-abiding citizens
work ing in low-paying jobs. That said, it is still
advisable only to visit these areas as part of
a guided tour. There are now several good
tours on offer. The most traditional tour is
organized by Marcelo Armstrong, who was
brought up in an apartment block adjoining
the Vila Canoas favela. He and his team have
been escorting visitors around Vila Canoas
and Rocinha since 1992. The tours offer valuable
insights into the lives of thousands of Rio’s Rocinha, located in São Conrado, one of Rio’s largest and most
less privileged citizens. complex favelas
90 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
c Barra
The fastest growing suburb of Rio, Barra da Tijuca houses the
Riocentro, Latin America’s largest convention and exhibition
center, and the Sítio Roberto Burle Marx, one of the best
collections of tropical plants around the world. Besides Barra
Shopping Center, the largest shopping mall in South America,
Barra boasts many other modern malls and supermarkets.
There are also Rio City’s most modern multiplex cinemas
and an ever-growing number of restaurants, bars, clubs,
and hotels. Barra is bordered by the city’s longest beach,
Barra Shopping Center, the largest
Praia da Barra da Tijuca. shopping mall in Latin America
Map of Barra da Tijuca
A SE
EIR R
OGU TR RA
R A DO N Projac-TV ES D
SER Globo JACAREPAGUÁ RI OS
O
Autódromo Internacional S
Rio Water Centro de
Planet Conveções Nelson Piquet ITANHANGÁ
Sítio Roberto Riocentro Lagoa de Museu Seleção
Burle Marx (2km) Jacarepaguá Brasileira
BARRA DA TIJUCA Barra Shopping
Las Palmas Center
RECREIO DOS Cidade
di Downtown
BANDEIRANTES e Marapen das Artes
Lagoa d
Casa do Lagoina
Praia da Barra
Pontal
Praia dos da Tijuca
Bandeirantes N
Praia do TIC OCEA
Praia Prainha Pontal ATLAN
0 km 3
& Grumari
0 miles 3
1 L Praia da Barra da Tijuca that has been a favorite with 2 = Barra Shopping Center
Av Sernambetiba. the surfing and hang-gliding Av das Américas 4666.
Stretching for over 11 miles crowd, with a kiosk that served Tel (21) 4003 4131.
(18 km), Praia da Barra da Tijuca organic food long before This massive and popular
is Rio’s longest beach. The first people had heard of it. shopping center has an impres-
4 miles (6 km) are the most built- Crowds from all over Rio sive range of shops. There are
up, a modern-day Copacabana, are drawn to this beach at also eight movie theaters, a
with large condominiums. weekends, but farther along it medical center, a bowling alley,
There are different hot becomes less crowded and and many coffee shops.
spots along the length of the unspoilt. During the week,
beach, the most famous of when schools are in session, 3 E Cidade das Artes
which is Barraca do Pepê, a it is even possible to find large Trevo das Palmeiras. &
tremendously busy food outlet isolated stretches. This cultural center houses one
of the largest concert halls in
Latin America and is home to the
Brazilian Symphony Orchestra.
With the main building sus-
pended 33 ft (10 m) above
the ground, the center has a
1,800-seater main hall, smaller
halls, four movie theaters, and
shops, bars, and restaurants.
4 E Museu Seleção Brasileira

Av Luís Carlos Prestes 130.
Tel (21) 3572 2006. &
Soccer arrived in Brazil in 1894.
Twenty years later, the Brazil
The long stretch of Praia da Barra da Tijuca squad played its first official
Rio de Janeiro. * 30,000.
n Praça Pio X 119, (21)
2271 7000.
∑ rio.rj.gov.br/riotur
Transport
q Botafogo.
@ from Copacabana (No. 523).
Fascinating collection of tropical plants at Sítio Roberto Burle Marx

on the private collection by the
match and won its first trophy, produces most of its own prime- Frenchman, Jacques Van de
the Copa Roca. So began a time programming, including Beuque. Around 200 artists from
legend. Trophies, photos, and its famous soap operas, called every region of Brazil have had
more are on display at this the novelas, three of which are their works represented here.
shrine to the national team. screened daily. A complete The superb collection at the
entertainment factory, Projac Casa do Pontal consists of more
5 Autódromo Internacional includes four studios, two audi- than 8,000 works of Brazilian folk
Nelson Piquet toriums, scenery and costume art including sculptures, wood
Av Embaixador Abelardo Bueno, workshops, a restaurant, and the carvings, models, and
Jacarepaguá. Tel (21) 3410 6850. production offices. mechanized sets. These are
Open race days only. & made from a variety of materials
Named for Nelson Piquet, the 8 Y Sítio Roberto Burle including clay, wood, cloth,
only Brazilian to win a Grand Prix Marx sand, iron, aluminium, straw,
in Rio, this circuit opened in 1978 Estrada Burle Marx 2019. Tel (21) 2410 wire, and even bread dough.
and held the Brazilian Formula 1412. Open 9:30am–1:30pm by
One Grand Prix that year. There- appointment only. & 0 L Praia Prainha & Grumari
after, the race returned to São This private garden belonged to Av Estado da Guanabara.
Paulo before coming back to Rio Roberto Burle Marx (see p299), Prainha and Grumari are the
from 1981 until 1990. A favorite one of the most important city’s most unspoilt beaches,
with the drivers, it became one landscape architects of the 20th and are deserted during the
of the most glamorous motor- century. In 1949, Burle Marx week as they are only accessible
racing events. In 1991, Rio lost bought a plantation and started by car. Prainha, just 164 yards
out to São Paulo and it has not to organize his private col- (150 m) long, is particularly
held a Grand Prix since. lection of amazing plants. He popular with the surf crowd,
moved here in 1973 and stayed while Grumari is larger and
6 E Centro de Conveções there until his death. In 1985, he attracts couples and families.
Riocentro donated the entire estate to the Some scenes from the 1984
Av Salvador Allende 6555. National Institute for Cultural Hollywood comedy Blame It
Tel (21) 3055 9100. & 7 Heritage (IPHAN). on Rio were filmed along the
∑ riocentro.com.br With around 3,500 plant road to Grumari.
Latin America’s largest exhibition species, the garden is The restaurant and bar,
and convention center, Riocentro considered one of the most Point de Grumari, on the top
received tremendous global important collections of tropical of the hill to the west, offers
attention when it hosted the and semitropical plants in the spectacular views along the
1992 United Nations Conference world. This horticultural paradise coast to the west.
on Environment and Develop- also displays the works of Burle
ment. The event, better known Marx, from the designs for
as the Earth Summit, was his landscape projects to his
unprecedented for its magnitude paintings and sculptures.
and the scope of its concerns. The garden also has a small
The large complex has five Benedictine chapel dating from
pavilions, and includes a heli- the 17th century, dedicated to
port, lawns, gardens, a natural St. Anthony.
lake, and parking facilities.
9 E Casa do Pontal
7 Projac-TV Globo Estrada do Pontal 3295. Tel (21) 2490
Estrada dos Bandeirantes 6700, 3278. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
Jacarepaguá. Tel (21) 2540 2000. 7 ∑ museucasadopontal.com.br
Globo is one of the world’s Almost the entire collection in A surfer at the picturesque and secluded
largest television networks and this charming museum is based Prainha beach
92 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
b Baía de
Guanabara
Without Baía de Guanabara,
Rio de Janeiro would probably
have been known by a
different name. On January 1,
1502, the navigators Andre
Gonçalves and Amerigo
Vespucci became the first
Europeans ever to sail into
the bay. Assuming it was the
mouth of a great river, they
called it Rio de Janeiro or
The lush setting of the Mayrink Chapel, Parque Nacional da Tijuca “River of January.” Guanabara,
meaning “Lagoon of the
v Parque Nacional (1755–1830); the 19th-century Sea,” was the name given
da Tijuca Mayrink Chapel, featuring the to the dominant bay by
work of Candido Portinari indigenous Brazilians and is
Tel (21) 2492 2253. @ Open 8am– (1903–62), one of the most rather more accurate.
6pm daily. 7 n Estrada da important Brazilian painters; the The bay is flanked by Rio to
Cascatinha 850, Terra Brasil,
lovely Os Esquilos restaurant; its west and Niterói to its east,
(21) 2492 2252.
and the hundreds of species and encompasses countless
Covering 15 sq miles (39 sq km), of plants, birds, and mammals islands. As well as the ferry
the Tijuca National Park that live here. services that begin at Praça XV,
encompasses the last remaining Many of the park’s 150-odd boats can be hired from the
tracts of Atlantic rainforest that trails, originally made by Brazil’s Marina da Glória in Flamengo
once surrounded Rio de Janeiro. indigenous people, exist even Park, the center of all nautical
It includes the Floresta da Tijuca today. One of them, dating activities in Rio. One of the
(Tijuca Forest), Serra da Carioca from the 19th more pleasant
(Carioca Mountains), and the century, takes ways to enjoy
monoliths of Pedra da Gávea and walkers up from the bay is by
Pedra Bonita. The park’s most Largo do Bom taking the
famous landmark is the towering Retiro, a picnic special cruise
statue of Cristo Redentor atop spot in the that starts from
Corcovado peak (see pp86–7). Floresta da the Espaço
Other well-known viewpoints are Tijuca, to Tiled map of park routes in Alto da Cultural da
the Dona Marta, the Vista Chinesa the 3,940-ft- Boa Vista Marinha (Navy
(with a Chinese-style pavilion), (1,201-m-) high Cultural Center)
and the Mesa do Imperador Tijuca Peak. It is easy to get lost in Centro. Centro has a number
(Emperor’s Table), all of which in the dense foliage, so stick to of fine nautical exhibits,
offer spectacular city views. the main trails and do not go including an Imperial Barge
Sights within the Floresta da without a guide if planning on built in Salvador in 1808, and
Tijuca include Cascatinha do trekking. Book in advance if a also offers a cruise on the
Taunay, a waterfall near the guide is required. historic tugboat, Laurindo Pitta,
main gate named after the Another attraction near the which was built in England in
French painter Nicolau Taunay Floresta da Tijuca is the Museu 1910 and took part in World
do Açude, a museum housed in War I. The cruise lasts an
the Neo-Colonial building that hour and a half and passes
once served as the residence of several interesting sights
the successful businessman, along the way.
Raymundo Ottoni de Castro The Tom Jobim International
Maya (1894–1968). The museum Airport is located on the largest
is known for its French, Dutch, of the islands in the bay, Ilha do
Spanish, and Portuguese tiles Governador, while the tiny Ilha
from the 17th and 18th centuries, Fiscal houses a palace built in
and for Castro Maya’s personal 1889 at the request of Emperor
collection of Oriental art. Dom Pedro II in the style of a
14th-century French castle. The
E Museu do Açude castle’s highlights include its
Estrada do Açude 764, Alto da Boa exceptional carved stonework
Vista. Tel (21) 2492 5443. Open and cast-iron work, and the
Cascatinha do Taunay, one of Parque 11am–5pm Wed–Mon. & free on turret’s mosaic floor, which is
Nacional da Tijuca’s many waterfalls Thu. 8 7 made from different species of
Museu de Art Contemporârnea (MAC-Niterói), hovering like a flying saucer above Boa Viagem
hardwood. Also noteworthy n Niterói Contemporârnea (MAC-

are the wall paintings by * 475,000. @ g
Niterói). The Fortaleza de
19th-century Dutch artist ∑ niteroiturismo.com.br Santa Cruz (Santa Cruz Fort)
Frederico Steckel, and the sits on a rocky outcrop just
tower clock and stained- Cariocas like to joke that the outside the city and guards
glass windows, which were best thing about Niterói is its the entrance to Guanabara
imported from England. view across the bay to Rio de Bay. Parts of the fort date from
Ilha Paquetá, north of the Janeiro, and it is true that the the 16th century, when the
bay, is an oasis of calm where city’s popularity has shown a French built an improvised
no cars are allowed. Ferries and decline due to its proximity to fortification to protect the city.
hydrofoils cruise up the bay to Brazil’s first city. Both cities, The structure grew until it
the island from the Estação das however, developed simultan- became the most important
Barcas in front of the historic eously, and as the ferries got fortress in Brazil. It helped
Praça XV. Crossing the bay is the faster and more reliable, Niterói protect Niterói from two
Rio-Niterói Bridge (officially the became a popular residential invasions, the first of which
Presidente Costa e Silva Bridge), option for people working in came from the Dutch in 1599,
which is one of the longest in downtown Rio. and the second from the
the world at 9 miles (13 km). The The British preferred Niterói French in 1710.
project was financed by Britain, to Rio, and in 1872, founded The stunning Museu
and construction began in 1968 the Rio Cricket and Athletic de Art Contemporârnea
in the presence of Queen Club that is still active there (Contemporary Art Museum)
Elizabeth II. today. Praia de São Francisco appears to hover above the
in Guanabara Bay is the city’s neighborhood of Boa Viagem.
E Espaço Cultural da Marinha answer to Copacabana beach, The illusion comes from its
Av Alfred Agache, Centro. Tel (21) but for the most part is not ideal slender base pillar, which is
2104 6025. Open noon–5pm Tue– for swimming. Niterói’s better only 30 ft (9 m) in diameter.
Sun. 8 7 beaches – Camboinhas, Itaipu, Inaugurated in 1996, it was
P Ilha Fiscal and Itacoatiara – lie on the the brainchild of the acclaimed
Baía de Guanabara. Tel (21) 2233 9165. Atlantic coast, and are very Brazilian architect, Oscar
Open only for tours at 1pm, 2:30pm & popular on weekends. Niemeyer (see p299). Its exhibits
4pm Thu–Sun. & 8 The two most popular are based on the 1,000 pieces
 Marina da Glória sights in the city are the of Brazilian art donated by
Av Infante Dom Henrique, Glória. imposing Fortaleza de Santa the eminent art collector,
Tel (21) 2255 2200. 7 Cruz and the Museu de Art João Sattamini. The most
enchanting spectacle,
however, is the view from
inside the museum at dusk,
when Rio’s lights twinkle
from across the bay.
P Fortaleza de Santa Cruz

Estrada Gaspar Dutra, Jurujuba.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
E Museu de Arte
Contemporânea
Mirante da Boa Viagem, Niterói.
Tel (21) 2620 2400. Open 10am– 6pm
A panoramic view of the Marina da Glória, Baía de Guanabara Tue–Sun. & 8 book in advance. 7
94 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
SHOPPING IN RIO
Resident Cariocas have turned shopping into the hippest boutiques, Rio’s residents
something of an art form and use it as an have fallen in love with the experience of
alternative form of entertainment when shopping in the larger malls, such as Rio Sul
they are bored with the beach. Visitors will and Barra Shopping Center, the largest
be pleased to find out just how far their shopping and entertainment complex in
money goes in Rio’s stores, especially when Latin America. The historic districts of Centro
it comes to buying items that have been and Copacabana (mainly the area along
manufactured in Brazil. This includes top Avenida Nossa Senhora de Copacabana)
fashion clothing, beach and sportswear, cannot be overlooked, as it is here that most
leather goods, jewelry, and numerous other of Rio’s quirky, special interest shops are
items. Until the 1980s, the best place to shop found. The Hippie Fair is the best place to
was along Visconde de Pirajá in Ipanema. buy arts and crafts items, trinkets, curios, and
Although the area is still considered to have souvenirs to take home as gifts.
branches of virtually all the

top Brazilian retailers as well
as some familiar international
names. The two giant malls are
not the only shows in town,
and malls in every shape and
size can be found all over Rio,
including the popular Fashion
Mall in São Conrado.
Jewelry
Brazil has huge deposits of
precious and semi-precious
Rio Sul, one of the two giant malls dominating Rio’s shopping scene gemstones, and, in some cases,
holds more than 90 percent of
Opening Hours the Rio Sul mall, which is the world’s total supply. This has
Most stores in Rio open from located on the main artery turned Brazil into one of the
9 or 10am in the morning until linking the Sugar Loaf end most important manufacturers
6 or 7pm in the evening Mon- of Copacabana to Botafogo of jewelry, both traditional and
day to Friday, and between 9 and the city. Rio Sul has more modern, and has made Rio de
or 10am until 1pm on Saturday. than 400 stores, plus restaurants Janeiro into one of the jewel
The big shopping malls, such and cinemas. It also runs a capitals of the world.
as Barra Shopping and Rio Sul, free bus service that picks The two market leaders,
stay open from 10am to 10pm up shoppers from all the main H. Stern and Amsterdam Sauer,
Monday through Saturday and hotels along the beachfront have stores in most of the city’s
from 3 to 9pm on Sunday. and drops them back with major hotels, and at the airport.
Most supermarkets are open their purchases. Of course, They also organize special
from 8am to 10pm Monday there are always plenty of jewelry tours at the Ipanema
to Saturday, with a limited taxis at Rio Sul. headquarters.
selection remaining open on Barra Shopping Center
Sunday. There are also several (see p90), the largest shopping
24-hour supermarkets scattered and entertainment complex
throughout the city. in Latin America, can almost
be treated as a tourist
attraction in its own right.
Shopping Malls It has about 600 stores, as
Two giant malls have well as a good selection
dominated Rio’s shopping of bars and restaurants, and
scene since the 1980s and entertainment that includes
offer just about anything a modern bowling alley, an
people could want under one 18-screen multiplex cinema,
roof. The closest and most and a gaming area known as
convenient for visitors staying Hot Zone. Both Rio Sul and H. Stern, offering a wide range of
in Copacabana and Ipanema is Barra Shopping Center have traditional and modern jewelry
SHOPPING IN RIO 95
what is available. Items on dis- Arts & Crafts Markets

play are usually of high quality The best and most famous arts
and are also well priced. and crafts market in Rio is the
Hippie Fair, taking place every
Sunday in and around Praça
Shoes General Osório in Ipanema. The
Brazil is one of the largest fair, which first began in 1968,
manufacturers of shoes and runs from 8am to 6pm and is
footwear in the world. Even the perfect place to pick up
the local supermarket is likely souvenir paintings or Brazilian
The famous Blue Man line of beachwear to stock fashionable flip-flops, arts and craft works.
and the two most famous There are a number of
Bikinis & Beachwear brands are Havaianas specialized arts and crafts
The girls from Ipanema, and Grendha. The stores throughout the
Copacabana, and Barra have most popular stores, city, including those
helped make the bikini a sym- that sell well-made found in the Rio Sul
bol of the city’s lifestyle. Shops and reasonably priced and Barra Shopping
specializing in bikinis, swim, leather shoes, are part Center malls. There is
surf, and beachwear can be of the Mr. Cat chain. also a good selection
found all over Rio, especially in Other stores worth in Copacabana, mostly
Copacabana, Ipanema, and all checking include along the historic Avenida
the big malls. Famous names in Andarella and Datelli. Flip-flops Nossa Senhora de
bikiniwear include Blue Man, Copacabana, situated
Bum-Bum, and Kitanga. behind Copacabana Palace
What you wear to the beach Music Hotel. In Ipanema, the H. Stern
is a fashion statement in Rio, While no one music chain store has a good selection, as
so designs, shapes, and colors dominates in Rio, some music does Brasil & Cia.
change with every season. stores are better than others.
Many stores offer a special line FNAC megastore in Barra
for visitors who find Brazilian Shopping Center has a very
fashions a bit daring. good selection. Biscoito Fino,
a music company that special-
izes in Brazilian music, especially
Fashion Wear bossa nova, has stands in
Brazil features prominently in Shopping da Gávea mall.
the international fashion scene, Another top name is Saraiva,
and Brazilians like to keep up which has a large store in Rio
with the latest trends. Walk Sul. Leading supermarkets,
around Ipanema or any of the especially Lojas Americanas, Ipanema’s Hippie Fair, a great place for
large malls to get an idea of sell cheap CDs. souvenir shopping
DIRECTORY
Shopping Malls Jewelry Kitanga Music
Rua Santa Clara 70 Ioja
Barra Shopping Amsterdam Sauer 204, Copacabana. Biscoito Fino
Center Rua Garcia d’Ávila 105, Map 3 D2. Shopping da Gávea,
Av das Américas 4666, Ipanema. Map 2 A4. Tel (21) 2293 5053. Rua Marques de São
Barra da Tijuca. Tel (21) 2512 1132. One of several branches. Vicente 52.
Tel (21) 4003 4131. Tel (21) 2540 7508.
H. Stern
∑ barrashopping. Rua Garcia d’Ávila 113, Shoes FNAC
com.br Ipanema. Map 2 A4. Barra Shopping Center.
Andarella
Fashion Mall Tel (21) 2106 0000. Tel (21) 2109 2000.
Av Nossa Senhora de
Estrada da Gávea 899, Copacabana 706, Saraiva
São Conrado. Bikinis & Rio Sul, Botafogo.
Copacabana. Map 3 D3.
Tel (21) 2111 4444. Beachwear Tel (21) 2543 7002.
Tel (21) 2236 2402.
∑ scfashionmall. Blue Man ∑ andarella.com.br
com.br Rio Sul, Botafogo. One of several branches. Arts & Crafts
Tel (21) 2541 6896. Markets
Rio Sul Mr. Cat
Rua Lauro Müller 116, Bum-Bum Rua Visconde de Pirajá Brasil & Cia
Botafogo. Rua Visconde Pirája 351, 414, Ipanema. Map 2 B4. Rua Maria Quitéria 27,
Tel (21) 3527 7257. Ipanema. Map 2 B4. Tel (21) 2227 6521. Ipanema. Map 2 A4.
∑ riosul.com.br Tel (21) 2287 9951. One of several branches. Tel (21) 2267 4603.
96 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
ENTERTAINMENT IN RIO
As a major world city, Rio offers a wide take on Brazilian culture, on the
variety of high-quality entertainment. whole, visitors can enjoy a scintillating
However, these are targeted more toward nightlife. The trendiest and most
local residents than casual tourists. The fashionable choices are found in
big local and international acts perform Ipanema and Leblon, and around the
mainly for the Brazilians, and the same is Lagoa. Downtown Rio is also back in
true of what is presented at the theater, fashion, with Lapa being particularly
in the movie houses, clubs, and bars. popular when it comes to clubs and
Though some clubs offer a watered-down bars that play upbeat Brazilian music.
Information Major Venues Voador in Lapa and other

For details of entertainment Rio is an important venue and smaller venues such as the
in Rio, check with the daily tour stop not only for the top Teatro João Caetano in
newspapers or their websites, names in Brazilian music, but Centro, the beautiful Sala
most notably O Globo and Jornal also for all the leading inter- Baden Powell in Copacabana,
do Brasil. For an update on national acts. The major Brazilian and even Morro da Urca on
on-going events, check Veja Rio, acts tend to prefer to play in one the halfway stage of Sugar
the special Rio supplement in of two big show houses in Rio, Loaf (see pp80–81).
Brazil’s leading weekly news- HSBC Arena and the Citibank The open-air venues of
magazine, Veja. It normally offers Hall in Barra da Tijuca. Opened Praça de Apoteose and
an accurate guide to the current in 1967, Canecão has hosted Cidade do Rock stage large
scene. The concierge at any big many major concerts and a acts. Even the Copacabana and
hotel would also be of help. number of classic live Brazilian Flamengo beaches sometimes
albums have been recorded hold free concerts.
here. Claro Hall, a purpose-built Rio also hosts a number of
Booking Tickets state-of-the-art facility, opened festivals during the year that
Brazilians traditionally only buy for business in 1994, with a cover all genres. The largest
their tickets at the very last show by Diana Ross. and most famous festival is
moment. Even for the biggest Vivo Rio, located in the Rock in Rio, though this is not
events, tickets may go on sale Modern Art Museum in an annual event.
only a few days ahead. In many Flamengo, puts on various Over the years, Rio has
cases, the tickets will be sold at shows. The Cidade das Artes offered a number of shows
the venue itself, or through an in Barra is one of South that primarily target the visitor
agency. Large ticket agencies, America’s largest concert halls who might want a quick,
such as Ticketmaster, and is home to the Brazilian though somewhat over-
Ticketronics, and Ingresso, Symphony Orchestra.. simplified, version of the vast
operate countrywide, and offer Smaller bands, or big names range of Brazilian culture.
tickets to both events and looking for a more intimate The glitziest show to outlast
particular venues. setting, also use the Circo them all takes place daily at
Colorfully costumed samba performers in the floor show at Plataforma 1

E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N R I O 97
Leblon’s Plataforma 1. The

kitschy variety show features
samba, bossa nova, and other
Brazilian sounds.
Samba, Bossa Nova &

Gafieira
Most visitors to Rio will hope
to catch a little live music and
dance action when they are in
town. While the big Brazilian
acts will be found at Canecão
and Claro Hall, there will also
be a lot of artistes performing
in smaller, more intimate The Pé de Moleque group playing at the Carioca da Gema bar in Lapa
venues, many of which are
also bars and clubs. wish to learn the basics of Bars & Clubs
Fans of bossa nova flock to dance there are a number of Rio enchants visitors with its
Vinícius in Ipanema and Bar schools in Rio. The Centro unique range of bars and clubs.
do Tom in Leblon. Celebrated Cultural Carioca offers beginner Bars go through every degree of
for its outstanding music and classes for individuals or groups sophistication, from periodically
a lively bar, the tiny Bip Bip for samba, forró, and gafieira. changing hot spots to those
in Copacabana is a well- specializing in cachaça and
frequented haven for MPB. caipirinhas, such as the popular
Arab is a restaurant and bar Samba Schools Academia da Cachaça in
in Lagoa that often hosts The number of shows and Leblon and Barra. Enhancing
live music, including jazz, opportunities increase the the variety are several pub-like
instrumental, and MBP. closer it gets to Carnaval (see venues, the most famous of
Since the end of the 1990s, pp68–9), with the “high season” which is Lord Jim in Ipanema,
the reinvigorated nightlife in for samba from December while sophisticated bars in the
the city center has given a through February. However, top hotels offer a more formal
special boost to samba and those who are not visiting the elegance. Then there are the
choro (an upbeat waltz or city during this time can watch traditional botequins, or the
polka). Lapa remains the main the samba schools in action. corner bars, with plenty to eat
hub, with places such as The samba schools are also and drink, well into the early
Carioca da Gema, Dama da known to host programs hours. Culinária Alemá in
Noite, and Rio Scenarium. featuring performances and Centro, Lamas in Flamengo,
Clube dos Democráticos is other events at the Cidade Cervantes in Copacabana,
a spacious club in Lapa do Samba, which opened Hipódromo in Gavea, and
particularly renowned for its in Centro in early 2006. Any Bar Lagoa on the Lagoa, have
samba and popular with a good hotel will be able to been drawing a steady clientele.
young crowd. Close by, in Praça organize a visit to the technical Favored by visitors, Garota de
Tiradentes, the Centro Cultural rehearsals or a guided tour of Ipanema was where Tom Jobim
Carioca is known to host the Cidade do Samba. and Vinícius de Moraes are
Brazilian music. Praça Mauá is said to have seen the girl who
also establishing itself on the inspired them to write the
nightlife scene. Head to Pedra song “A Garota de Ipanema.”
do Sal, a small outdoor square Trendy Barril 1800, an Ipanema
where live samba and choro landmark, attracts local celebs
music are played on Friday, and tourists alike with its great
Saturday, and Monday evenings. atmosphere.
Drinks and food are sold from The line between bars,
street stalls around the square. DJ bars, and clubs can get
Even when the center of blurred in Rio, with a surfeit
Rio was not in fashion, two of bars offering dancing and
clubs prospered there and music as the night goes on.
still hold sway as the city’s The “in” venues change
authentic ballrooms, or extremely quickly in terms of
gafieiras. Estudantina, in Praça popularity and name. Therefore,
Tiradentes, dates from 1928, it is always a good idea to ask
while the 1918 Cordão da Bola a resident or the concierge at
Preta in Lapa is the oldest People dancing to a live gafieira show in the hotel about the places that
carnival bloco. For those who Rio Scenarium may be currently in vogue.
98 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
Gay & Lesbian

Rio has a very active gay and
lesbian scene, much of which
simply blends into the everyday
life of the city. Among the most
traditional gay and lesbian clubs
are the upbeat Le Boy and La
Girl, at the Ipanema end of
Copacabana. Dama de Ferro
is as popular.
A good starting point is
Ipanema beach. The block
running back from the beach
also has a number of gay- and A soccer game in progress at the Estádio do Maracanã
lesbian-friendly bars.
operations all tend to be in Helicopter Tours
Barra, such as the 18-screen One of the most popular tours
Eating Out Cinemark. Smaller and older with visitors to Rio, a helicopter
For many Cariocas, eating out theaters can be found in ride takes people over the city
(see p382–3) is an entertainment Copacabana and Ipanema. and beaches, or around Sugar
in its own right. Foreign visitors International films quickly Loaf and Corcovado mountains.
get the best value from dining make their way into Brazil, Since 1991, Helisight has
at the churrascaria rodizios, the and, unless they are aimed at been offering eight different
large barbecue houses with a children, will be left in their tours that vary from eight
fixed-price menu. original language with subtitles minutes to an hour. The most
In Rio, trying traditional added. At least one new popular tours are those that
Brazilian cuisine normally means Brazilian film is released each circle Corcovado and the statue
a feijoada (see p384), a sumptuous week, a few of which will go of Christ the Redeemer.
feast usually served for lunch on on to international acclaim. Helisight has modern heliports
Wednesday or Saturday. Independent world cinema at Dona Marta, Morro da Urca,
takes over the city each Septem- and the Lagoa. It also operates
ber and October, when the city’s from Pier Maua when the cruise
Theater main film festival, Festival do Rio, ships are in. Prices are much less
Theater in Rio de Janeiro is of holds public screenings. than most people imagine.
a high quality, but a majority
of the productions will be in
Portuguese. The main theaters, Classical Music, Opera Soccer
generally small and intimate, are & Dance The mecca of soccer lovers, Rio
found in Copacabana, Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro has a healthy and is world-renowned for its
and Leblon. In Centro, the Centro vibrant music, opera, and dance abiding passion for the game.
Cultural Banco do Brasil is a scene that is focused in the Matches take place all through
major venue. For listings, check Theatro Municipal and the the year, and are usually held on
O Globo and Jornal do Brasil. Cidade das Artes in Barra. Small Wednesday evenings or Sunday
concerts and recitals also use the afternoons. The city’s four big
Sala Cecília Meireles in Lapa. clubs are Flamengo, Fluminense,
Cinema Rio has its own music, opera, Vasco da Gama, and Botafogo.
Brazil is one of the world’s and dance companies, but also Almost synonymous with
biggest cinema-going markets. attracts the very best from the Brazil’s legendary sport, the
However, the latest multiplex rest of Brazil and the world. Estádio do Maracanã is widely
acclaimed for hosting some
of the best soccer matches.
Horse Racing
Unusual as it may seem to list
it among the entertainment
options, horse racing at the
Jóquei Club Brasileiro on the
Lagoa takes place four times a
week. On Monday and Friday
evenings, one can enjoy drinks
or dinner in the members’ stand,
and watch the racing go on
An aerial view of the Helisight heliport at Morro da Urca under the floodlights.
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N R I O 99
DIRECTORY
Information Vivo Rio Samba Schools La Girl
Av Infante Dom Henrique Rua Raul Pompéia 102,
Jornal do Brasil 85, Flamengo. Cidade do Samba Copacabana.
∑ jbonline.terra. Tel (21) 2272 2901. Rua Rivadávia Correa 60, Map 2 C4.
com.br Gamboa. Tel (21) 2247 8342.
O Globo Samba, Bossa Tel (21) 2213 2503.
∑ oglobo.globo.com Nova & Gafieira Le Boy
Bars & Clubs Rua Raul Pompéia 102,
Arab
Booking Tickets Copacabana.
Av Borges de Medeiros, Academia da Cachaça Map 2 C4.
Ingresso Parque dos Patins, Kiosk 7.
Rua Conde Bernadotte 26, Tel (21) 2513 4993.
∑ ingresso.com.br Map 1 B2.
Tel (21) 2540 0742. Leblon.
Ticketmaster Tel (21) 2239 1542. Theater
∑ ticketmaster.com.br Bar do Tom Av Armando Lombardi
Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Centro Cultural
Ticketronics 800, Barra. Banco do Brasil
Leblon. Map 1 A4.
∑ ticketronics.com.br Tel (21) 2492 1159. Rua Primeiro de Março 66,
Tel (21) 2274 4022.
Bar Lagoa Centro. Map 5 E3.
Major Venues Bip Bip Tel (21) 3808 2020.
Rua Almirante Gonçalves Av Epitácio Pessoa 1674,
Cidade das Artes 50, Copacabana. Lagoa. Map 2 A4.
Trevo das Palmeiras, Barra. Cinema
Map 2 C4. Tel (21) 2523 1135.
Cidade do Rock Tel (21) 2267 9696. Cinemark
Barril 1800
Av Salvador Allende, Barra Carioca da Gema Av das Américas,
da Tijuca. Av Vieira Souto 110,
Av Mem de Sá 79, Lapa. Barra da Tijuca.
Ipanema. Map 2 B5.
Circo Voador Map 5 D5. Tel (21) 2494 5007.
Tel (21) 2523 0085.
Rua dos Arcos, Lapa. Tel (21) 2221 0043.
Map 5 D5. Cervantes Classical Music,
Centro Cultural Opera & Dance
Tel (21) 2533 0354. Carioca Av Prado Júnior 335,
Citibank Hall Rua do Teatro 37, Praça Copacabana. Map 3 F1. Sala Cecília Meireles
Av Ayrton Senna 3000, Tiradentes, Centro. Tel (21) 2275 6147. Largo da Lapa 47.
Barra da Tijuca. Map 4 C4. Map 5 D5.
Tel (21) 2252 6468.
Culinária Alemà
HSBC Arena Tel (21) 2332 9176.
Rua da Carioca 39, Centro.
Av Embaixador Abelardo Clube dos Map 5 D4. Theatro Municipal
Bueno 3401, Barra da Democráticos Av Rio Branco.
Tel (21) 2262 6900.
Tijuca. Rua Riachuelo 91, Lapa.
Map 5 E4.
Tel (21) 3035 5200. Map 4 C5. Garota de Ipanema
Tel (21) 2332 9195.
Tel (21) 2252 4611. Rua Vinícius de Moraes
Morro da Urca
Av Pasteur 520, Praia Cordão da Bola Preta 49, Ipanema. Map 2 A5. Helicopter tours
Vermelha, Urca. Rua da Relação 3, Lapa. Tel (21) 2523 3787.
Tel (21) 2546 8400. Map 4 C4. Helisight
Hipódromo Rua Conde de Bernadotte
Tel (21) 2240 8049.
Plataforma 1 Praça Santos Dumont 26, sl. 119. Map 1 A4.
Rua Adalberto Ferreira 32, Dama da Noite 108, Gávea. Tel (21) 2511 2141 (week-
Leblon. Ave Gomes Freire 773, Tel (21) 2274 9720. days), (21) 2542 7895 (Sat,
Tel (21) 2274 4022. Lapa. Map 4 C5.
Sun & public hols).
Tel (21) 2509 4237. Lamas
Praça da Apoteose
Rua Marquês de Abrantes
Rua Marquês de Sapucaí, Estudantina Soccer
Cidade Nova. Praça Tiradentes 79, 18, Flamengo.
Map 4 A5. Centro. Tel (21) 2556-0799. Estádio do Maracanã
Tel (21) 2563 9000. Map 4 C4. Rua Eurico Rabelo, São
Lord Jim
Tel (21) 2232 1149. Cristóvão.
Sala Baden Powell Rua Paul Redfern 63, Tel (21) 2334 1705.
Av Nossa Senhora de Rio Scenarium Ipanema. Map 1 C4.
Copacabana 360, Rua do Lavradio 20, Lapa. Tel (21) 2259 3047. Horse Racing
Copacabana. Map 4 C4.
Map 3 D3. Tel (21) 3147 9000. Gay & Lesbian Jóquei Clube
Tel (21) 2548 0421. Brasileiro
Vinícius
Teatro João Caetano Rua Vinícius de Moraes Dama de Ferro Rua Jardim Botânico
Praça Tiradentes, Centro. 39, Ipanema. Rua Vinícius de Moraes 1003. Map 1 A2, A3,
Map 4 C4. Map 2 B4. 288, Ipanema. Map 2 B4. B2, B3.
Tel (21) 2332 9257. Tel (21) 2287 1497. Tel (21) 2247 2330. Tel (21) 3534 9000.
100 R I O D E J A N E I R O
RIO DE JANEIRO CITY

STREET FINDER
Map references given in this guide for enter- which follow refer to the grid reference on that
tainment venues and other attractions in Rio map. The map below shows the different areas
City refer to the Street Finder maps on the of Rio City – Leblon, Copacabana, Ipanema,
following pages. Map references are also and Centro – covered by the five Street Finder
provided for Rio City restaurants (see pp386–8) maps. Symbols used for sights and useful
and hotels (see pp370–71). The first figure in the information are displayed in the key below.
map reference indicates which Street Finder A list of important places of interest marked
map to turn to, and the letter and number on the maps can be found on page 72.
Key
Place of interest 0 km 2
Other building 0 miles 2
Train station
Ferry terminal RODRIGU E S
AV A LV
ES
AV
3
Metro station S
1D
R GA
VA
E
Metro station under construction TE

EN
MA
ID
(opens 2016) P RES
RÇ
AV
O
Visitor information
A V PA U LO F R O N T I M
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Hospital
NR
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Church Baía de
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Scale of Maps 1 & 2–3
0 meters 400 CA
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0 yards 400 S A
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Scale of Map 4–5 A V V I E IRA S O UTO
0 meters 200
0 yards 200
Streetwise in Rio It is advisable not to wander Make sure the driver turns
Though street crime is unaccompanied around the on the meter and ask for an
prevalent in Rio, a few darker corners of the Parque estimate of the average fare
precautions could help to do Flamengo, or to walk to your destination.
prevent it from happening. between Cosmo Velho and Various instances of
Contrary to general belief, Corcovado late at night. bag-snatching are common
it is probably best to avoid Robbery and assault in these on the crowded beaches
taking a stroll on the deserted areas are common. of Copacabana and Ipanema,
streets of Centro on Sundays. Passengers taking a bus are especially during the weekends,
Praça Mauá, just to the north of easy targets for thieves, and so visitors must keep a keen
Centro, is best avoided after need to be vigilant. Taxis are eye on their belongings.
nightfall. Lapa, a popular plentiful and inexpensive, Again, do not go down
nightspot in Rio, must be so avoid walking along to the water after dark. Stay
explored with great caution. empty and unfamiliar streets. on the well-lit, busy sidewalks.
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ESPÍRITO SANTO
Beyond the capital cities of Rio and Vitória, the magnificent
scenery dominating the areas continues unchecked by rapid
modernization. Along the coast are giant boulder-strewn mountains,
while farther inland are the steep, lushly forested ridges of the Mata
Atlântica. Spectacular beaches, picturesque islands, and several resort
towns are among the area’s other attractions.
Stretching north and south of Rio City are area, considered one of the world’s
long strands of beaches and half-moon biodiversity hot spots, has an astounding
coves lapped or pounded by a bottle- 950 species of birds and 40 percent of
green Atlantic and visited by troops of the plants here are unique, including
sea turtles. Some surround the popular the cattleya orchid, referred to as the
resort towns of Búzios, “discovered” by “Queen of Flowers.” The largest among
Brigitte Bardot in the 1960s, and Cabo the islands, Ilha Grande has no roads.
Frio, while others lie close to the colonial Steep walking trails leave its only town
port of Paraty, which once lay at the end Abraão, to cut through the forest to
of the mule route from the gold mines still more beaches deserted but for
of Minas Gerais. Its cobbled streets are surfboards and fishing shacks.
better preserved than others on the The Espírito Santo coast is equally
southeastern coast. beautiful with its mountains, beaches,
Inland, the steep ridges of the and small towns. One of them, Itaúnas,
Mata Atlântica begin to rise vertiginously is backed by sand dunes large enough to
towards Minas Gerais and São Paulo, swallow it. A stunning sight here is Pedra
protecting a string of national and Azul, a granite monolith which changes
state parks, including Itatiaia and the from slate gray to fiery orange with the
Serra dos Órgãos, in their folds. This passage of the sun.
Pedra Azul, a spectacular granite monolith in Espírito Santo

Colorful fishing boats lined up along the coast of Paraty, Rio de Janeiro state
108 SOUTHEAST BRAZIL
Exploring Rio de Janeiro

& Espírito Santo
Several towns pepper the coast of Rio de Janeiro
state. Among these, Búzios draws the most visitors
and has the best hotels and restaurants, while the
colonial town of Paraty, nestled between the coastal
mountains and an island-strewn sea, is emerging as
a center for the arts. North of Rio is the imperial city
of Petrópolis. Brazil’s oldest national park, Itatiaia,
lies just off the interstate between Rio and São
Paulo. Ilha Grande, off the coast of Rio, and the
resorts of northern Espírito Santo are relatively
untouched. Vitória, the state’s capital, dates to the
1550s. To its south is the beach town of Guarapari, Statue of King Dom Pedro II, the founder of the
while inland is the dramatic peak of Pedra Azul. magnificent city of Petrópolis
Lush Mata Atlântica in Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, Rio de Janeiro
Sights at a Glance
Belo
Horizonte
Towns & Cities
Preto
1 Paraty pp110–12 Três Rios
2 Angra dos Reis PARQUE NACIONAL Marquês de
DO ITATIAIA Valença
5 Petrópolis pp116–19 TERESÓPOLIS
Agulhas Negras
6 Teresópolis 9,100 ft SERRA DOS ÓRGÃOS
(2,787 m)
9 Guarapari Resende Volta
0 Vitória Barra Mansa Redonda PETRÓPOLIS
São Paulo Duque de
w Itaúnas Caxias Mage
Rio Claro
Nova Iguaçu
São
National Parks & Areas of Natural Gonçalo
Beauty Itaguaí
ANGRA DOS REIS Rio de Niterói
3 Ilha Grande Baía da Janeiro
4 Parque Nacional do Itatiaia llha Grande ILHA GRANDE
7 Parque Nacional da Serra dos PARATY
Órgãos Trindade Punta de Juatinga
8 Búzios pp120–21
q Pedra Azul
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp372–3 and p388
RIO DE JANEIRO & ESPÍRITO SANTO 109
Getting Around
The Rio and Espírito Santo
coasts are served by the well és
signposted BR-101 interstate or
i m
Mucurici A Salvador
highway. Rio de Janeiro state s Montanha
has a good interstate bus do
ra
service to all the beach towns. Ser
Ecoporanga ITAÚNAS
The Mata Atlântica, however, Pinheiros
Co
is best visited on a tour or with
ta
Agua Doce xé
a hired car, as are the national do Norte
Conceição
parks of Itatiaia and Serra dos Nova Venécia da Barra
Órgãos. To visit northern and São Mateus
central Espírito Santo, visitors
will need their own transport. São Gabriel
Ilha Grande can be reached by da Palha
passenger ferry twice a day.

Rio
Pancas Bananal Lagoa
Juparanã
Key Linhares
e
Highway D oc
Major road Jacupemba
Colatina Povoação
Minor road Regência
Itaguaçu
Railroad Ibiraçu Aracruz
Itarana
State border
Afonso ESPÍRITO Santa Cruz
Peak Cláudio
Belo
SANTO Nova Almeida
Horizonte Serra
PEDRA
Iúna
Venda AZUL VITÓRIA
Nova Vila Velha
Pico de
Bandeiras Alfredo
9,500 ft (2,890 m) Chaves
Vargem Alta
GUARAPARI
Ita
b Cachoeiro de Iconha
Itapemirim
ap
Anchieta
oana
Muqui
Bom Jesus do Itapemirim
Mimoso do Sul
Itabapoana
Itaperuna
Itabapoana
Miracema Mu Morro do Coco
ri
aé
São Fidélis Travessão

Sul
a do Itaocara São João da Barra
aíb
Par
RIO DE JANEIRO Campos dos Goitacazes
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Santo Amaro
Cordeiro Conceição
a
Lagoa de Campos
de Macabu
Trajano de
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M Feia
o
Serra d Quissamã
Nova Friburgo
Macaé
Silva Barra de São João

Jardim
São Pedro da Aldeia
Araruama
Saquarema
BÚZIOS
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Colorful boats anchored on the Paraty shore
1 Paraty
One of the most photographed colonial towns on the
Brazilian coast, Paraty has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site
since 1958. Though settled by the Portuguese in the 16th
century, it was developed a century later as an important port
from where gold was shipped to Europe. Extremely charming,
the whitewashed churches and terra-cotta roofs offset the
lush green of the rainforest-clad mountains, and the placid
bay whose emerald waters lap at the town’s quay. Paraty has
an impressive literary tradition; the annual Festa Literária
Internacional de Paraty (FLIP) is a big draw. It is also an ideal
base for exploring the dazzling Brazilian coastline, and boasts
lovely pousadas (exclusive hotels).
Statue of St. Benedict, Nossa Senhora do

E Santa Rita dos Pardos Rosário e São Benedito
Libertos
Largo da Santa Rita. Open 9am–noon, R Nossa Senhora do Rosário
2–5pm Wed–Sun. & ^ e São Benedito
The façade of Paraty’s oldest Rua Tenente Francisco Antônio. Open
church now graces travel 9am–noon, 2–5pm Tue–Sun. & ^
brochures of the city. It was Slaves worshipped at Nossa
built in 1722 by, and for, all Senhora do Rosário e São
those considered not white Benedito, which was built in
enough to attend the church 1725. The interior of this humble
of the ruling elite. These would church is almost entirely free of
have included the illegitimate embellishment, except for heavy
offspring of the aristocracy, gilt on the altarpiece. However,
their children in turn, indigenous it retains a simple dignity and
Sturdy iron bars of the Casa de Cadeia, people, and freed slaves. In a sacred atmosphere. Its design
a former prison design the church is typically resembles the Minas Gerais
Jesuit, with three windows in the chapels of the same period.
E Casa de Cadeia upper chancel and a curvilinear Every November, locals
Rua Travessa Santa Rita. Tel (24) door. Except for the beautifully celebrate A Festa dos Santos
3371 1056. Open 9am–5pm daily. worked altarpiece in the (Feast of All Saints) here, where
&8^ sanctuary and fine woodwork they remember some of the
The 18th-century Casa de Cadeia on the doorways its interior is building’s historical past. Mass
served as the town’s prison until plain. Deconsecrated in the is followed by a procession
1890. Retaining its original iron 20th century, the church now where churchgoers carry
prison bars, this building now serves as the sparse Museu de figures of a king and queen,
serves as the public library, Arte Sacra. Displayed religious recalling the Maracatú monarchs
besides housing the Casa do artifacts include gold and of Pernambuco, and icons of
Artesão (Artisan’s House). silver remonstrances. the various saints.
Paraty’s whitewashed buildings reflected in the placid waters at the quay

R Matriz Nossa Senhora R Nossa Senhora das VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

dos Remédios Dores
Praça Monsenhor Helio Pires. Rua Fresca. Open 9am–noon, 2–5pm Practical Information
Open 8am–noon Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat, Tue–Sun. ^ Rio de Janeiro. * 30,000. n Av
8am–noon, 2–5pm Sun. & ^ The colonial aristocracy also Roberto Silveira 36, (24) 3371
Originally meant for the white attended the graceful chapel of 1222. _ Carnaval (Feb), Festa de
elite, this stately church took Nossa Senhora das Dores. Built Divino Espírito Santo (May), Festas
100 years to build, owing to in 1800, it was renovated in Juninas (Jun), Festa Literária
Internacional de Paraty (Aug),
financial constraints. When it 1901 and administered by the
Festival da Pinga (Aug), Festa da
was near completion in 1873, nuns of the convent of Our Lady
Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
the architects discovered that of Sorrows. Just as the rest of (Sep). ∑ paratyvirtual.com.br
Paraty’s soil was too muddy Paraty’s churches, it has an
to support the planned twin unembellished interior, Transport
towers. It was left in its current although there is some fine ~ @ Rua Jango Pádua.
squat state, slowly subsiding to carving on the balustrades in
the left. Today, it serves as a the upper chancel. A catacomb-
parish church. like cemetery adjoins the chapel. P Forte Defensor Perpétuo
Morro do Forte. Open 9am–noon,
2–5pm Wed–Sun. & Centro de Artes
e Tradições Populares: Open 10am–
5pm Tue–Sun. ^
Located on the northern head-
land, just outside town, this
19th-century fort looks more like
an elongated squat town house.
Rusted cannons and remnants
of a wall sit in front of it. The
Centro de Artes e Tradições
Populares (Center for Popular
Art) occupies its principal room,
displaying local handicrafts and
items related to the traditional
Cannons resting outside Forte Defensor Perpétuo way of life of the local people.
Paraty Forte Defensor

Perpétuo
500 yards (450 m)
1 Casa de Cadeia ÉDIO
S
M
N S RE
2 Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos AV
3 Nossa Senhora do Rosário e

São Benedito ué -Açu
Rio Pereq
4 Matriz Nossa Senhora dos
IRA-RIO
RUA BE
Remédios
5 Nossa Senhora das Dores CAPELA
RUA DA
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Nossa Senhora
6 Forte Defensor Perpétuo Matriz Nossa Senhora PRAÇA das Dores
G . DE AB
dos Remédios DA
MATRIZ
RUA DA CA DEIA
R UA
M IN GO
R U A D A P RA
Nossa Senhora do
FRESC
Rosário e São Benedito R A S A M U E L C O S TA

U
RU E D O
RUA D
RUA DONA GERAL

R U A D A M AT R I Z
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Rodoviária R DA FERRARIA
O CO
550 yards (500 m)

MÉ
R U A D A L A PA
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RUA DA LA
PA
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Santa Rita
AU RO R A dos Pardos Libertos
Casa da Cadeia
0 meters 150 Baía de Paraty

0 yards 150

Beaches Around Paraty VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Paraty, with its forest-swathed spurs of the coastal mountains, Practical Information
lies at the heart of a beautiful stretch of coastline. A short Rio de Janeiro state. n Paraty
Tours, Av Roberto Silveira 11,
way offshore are a string of islands. Until only a few decades Tel (24) 3371 1327.
ago, this area was little-known even to Brazilian holiday ∑ paratytours.com.br
makers. Much of the area, surrounded by a wealth of exotic  Praia do Jabaquara, Praia do
flora and fauna, is protected by national and state parks. Pontal, Paraty-Mirim, Trindade.
The islands can be reached by boat from Paraty town, or Transport
the nearby Paraty-Mirim. g to islands from Paraty pier.
@ from Paraty (every 45 minutes
for Paraty-Mirim & Trindade).
Beaches & Islands Around Paraty
0 km 6
The small town of Trindade,
Ilha do 0 miles 4
13 miles (21 km) south of Paraty,
Breu
Ilha do is popular with surfers from
Praia do Araújo
Araújo Ilha Rapada São Paulo. It offers a choice of
Ilha
Comprida Ilha do simply appointed pousadas and
Mantimento Ilha dos some pretty beaches connected
Praia do Meros
Jabaquara Praia das by footpaths. The scenic beach
Lulas Ilha dos
Praia Cocos running south of Trindade, Praia
165 Paraty Praia do Vermelha
Pontal Ilha do de Fora, is backed by forest-
Algodão Ponta de
Poço das Praia Boa Cajaiba covered hills. Praia do Meio is
Andorinhas Vista Paraty- a long stretch of fine sand,
Mirim Praia da Venda
s washed by waves perfect for
ero Praia
sM S A CO D E
bodysurfing. Laranjeiras, a
do Deserta
Rio M A M A NGU Á small distance downhill, is the
m hideaway for Rio’s super-rich
iri
101
M
a who flock to its private condo-

Pa
r
miniums. Trails lead from here

N
Patrimônio
o
Ri
101 Praia de Sá through the forest to a string of

CE
Praia
Praia do pristine beaches to the south.
O
Laranjeiras
Trindade Sono Praia do Cepilho is one of the
C
TI
best surfing spots along this

N
Praia do
A
Praia Praia do stretch of coast.

TL
Meio Praia da
de Fora Cepilho
A
Ponta Negra Located 21 miles (34 km) from

Paraty, Ilha do Breu is a tiny
private island dominated by a
single pousada. The owner
Exploring Around Paraty plush holiday homes. A deep breeds rare golden lion
The bays and islands off Paraty sleeve of water, it is good for tamarins, which he lets run free
are a favorite playground for snorkeling. Ilha dos Meros, on his island. He also maintains
Brazil’s rich elite, who moor their 9 miles (14 km) northeast of a small aviary, and has planted
expensive yachts in the Paraty Paraty, is another snorkeling trees to attract Atlantic
Marina and fly in to the adjacent spot, though marine life is rainforest birds. Poço das
airport in their private jets for limited to large shoals of Andorinhas, one of the many
a weekend cruise. sheepshead bream and the waterfalls in the region, is a
Paraty’s city beach, close to occasional turtle. popular spot for bathing.
the historic center, is Praia do
Pontal and it lies across the Rio
Perequê-Açu. The water is not
very clean, but the barracas
(restaurants) are pleasant. A
shallow and spacious beach,
Praia do Jabaquara, is within
walking distance of Paraty town.
A glorious long beach, Paraty-
Mirim, lies 17 miles (27 km) east
of town, and can be reached by
a bumpy dirt road. Just south,
Saco de Mamanguá is lined
with old fishing villages and Secluded scenic Praia de Fora near Trindade
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp372–3 and p388 For keys to symbols see back flap
Mata Atlântica
The Atlantic coastal forest, or Mata Atlântica, is one of the best bird-watching sites in
the world, with 950 resident species, almost 200 of which are endemic. It once covered
the lowlands and coastal mountains from Rio Grande do Norte to Rio Grande do Sul.
Today, less than 5 percent remains, concentrated mainly in Rio de Janeiro, Minas Gerais,
São Paulo, and Paraná. Its proximity to the Atlantic blesses it with heavy rainfall. The
vegetation is thick with epiphytic plants, and the forest is particularly rich in breathtaking
orchid species. There are many rare mammals too, including the most endangered
primate in the world, the woolly spider monkey, as well as several striking species of
uniquely colored marmosets and tamarins.
Epiphytes are
plants encrusting Vegetation at
the water’s edge B R A Z I L
every available Clearwater tends to consist
nook and cranny streams cut of fast-growing
of the larger across the thick species that
trees, drawing forest, which quickly replenish
moisture directly receives heavy their numbers
from air. rainfall, especially after floods. Locator Map
in the Southeast. Mata Atlântica
Biodiversity
Mata Atlântica is one of the world’s most biodiverse regions, with some 20,000
plant species, 40 percent of which are endemic, and one of the highest
numbers of threatened or endangered vertebrates in the world.
The seven-colored tanager The cattleya orchid,

is one of the local the world’s most
species listed as famous orchid genus,
endangered or was discovered by
threatened Englishman William
by CITES. Cattley in 1818.
The golden
lion tamarin,
The woolly one of the three
monkey, among lion tamarin
South America’s species, lives on
largest primates, a few islands Ocelots, the third-largest of Brazil’s
can weigh more and in the eight indigenous big cats, are most
than 13 lb (6 kg). Atlantic forest. abundant in southern São Paulo.
The Costa Verde heavy tourism. The only

settlement of any size is the
The Costa Verde (Green Coast) stretching south of Rio, past two-street Vila do Abraão,
Paraty and Trindade (see pp110–12), deserves its name. the port town and main
Rainforests swathe the coastal mountains, which reach almost village on the island. Tour
operators and hotels in Abraão
9,143 ft (2,787 m) in the alpine meadows and the forests of offer a range of trips around
Parque Nacional do Itatiaia. From here, they plunge down the island, many of them on
into steep ridges to meet an emerald ocean, tinged with pretty, painted wooden fishing
turquoise at numerous long sandy beaches. Beyond are a boats. The most popular trip
scattering of breathtaking islands set in aquamarine and is to the sheltered cove at
Palmas, to the east of the
sitting in the deep, bottle-green Atlantic. The largest, Ilha
village, from where a trail
Grande, is particularly lush, with trees covering its rocky leads to Lopes Mendes to the
mountains and sheltering its spectacular strands of fine east, one of Ilha Grande’s
white sand. The island is also the playground for the rich, longest beaches, washed by
who host extravagant parties in the summer. powerful surf. Other trips
include snorkeling in the clear
waters of the Saco do Céu or
2 Angra dos Reis visits to the 18th-century
Igreja de Santana at Freguesia
Rio de Janeiro. * 180,000. @ from
Rio. n Av Ayrton Senna 580, (24) de Santana.
3367 7826. ∑ angra-dos-reis.com Self-guided trails from Abraão
lead throughout the island.
This unprepossessing port is Many of them are steep and
today mainly a jumping-off point rocky, but offer wonderful
for the islands of Ilha Grande views out over the Atlantic.
and Ilha da Gipóia. It was once The most challenging is to
a charming colonial town and the 3,248-ft- (990-m-) high
vestiges of its once dignified peak of Pico do Papagaio.
past are hidden among the ever- Although most of the 75-sq-
expanding favelas. Angra dos mile (193-sq-km) island now
Reis was once as pretty a town Town church in Vila do Abraão, Ilha Grande, forms part of the Parque
as Paraty. The main church, against a lush backdrop Estadual da Ilha Grande, Ilha
Nossa Senhora da Conceição, Grande’s pristine state owes
was built in 1626 in front of the 3 Ilha Grande more to its long isolation than
docks, while the nearby Nossa Rio de Janeiro. * 6,000. g from
to efforts at conservation. From
Senhora do Carmo dates from Angra dos Reis. n Parque Estadual the earliest colonial days the
1593. The colonial naval complex Peig, Av Beira Mar, Vila do Abraão, (24) island was a notorious pirate lair.
lies some 2 miles (3 km) north of 9922 9614. ® Vila do Abraão. It then became a landing port
the town center towards the ∑ ilhagrande.com.br for slaves destined for Rio and
Praia do Bonfim. in the late 20th century an
The most romantic and pretty infamous prison for political
Environs of southeastern Brazil’s many prisoners. Ruins of the prison
Ilha da Gipóia, an hour’s boat islands, Ilha Grande remains buildings remain, covered in
ride off the port of Angra dos unspoilt by development and thick vegetation.
Reis, is the second-largest island
in the bay after Ilha Grande, and
is known for its stunning white-
sand beaches such as Jurubaíba,
Praia do Dentista, and Norte.
Most of the beaches here are
bustling with bars floating
offshore, which can be reached
by the yachts and boats that ply
the waters of the bay.
The forested Serra do Mar
lies 25 miles (40 km) inland
from Angra. On weekends and
holidays, visitors can take a
picturesque train journey there.
Train tickets should be booked
a day in advance from the
tourist office. Pristine beach alcove surrounded by lush green forest, Ilha Grande
Steep mountain ridges in Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, Brazil’s oldest national park
4 Parque Nacional Birdlife, too, is prolific in the The park can be crowded
do Itatiaia park, which is home to 350 on weekends when Brazilian
species, many of which are families romp in the numerous
Rio de Janeiro. @ from Resende. endangered. The park plays a waterfalls and wildlife makes
n Centro Excursionista Brasileiro,
crucial role in their conservation. itself scarce. But during the
Av Almirante Barroso 2, 8th floor, Rio,
Dusky-legged guans wander week the various trails are
(21) 2252 9844. ∑ ecoralph.com 8
along the park’s few paved deserted and quiet. The ranger
Ralph Salgueiro, (24) 3351 1823. &
® Hotel Donati, (24) 3352 1110. roads, brilliant seven-colored station provides rather poor
∑ hoteldonati.com.br and black and gold cotingas flit walking maps but the trails are
about with toucans, and the fairly clear. Hotel Donati, which
Brazil’s oldest national park, early morning air buzzes with is the best hotel in the park, can
Parque Nacional do Itatiaia, the sound of dozens of different organize walking tours and, with
was founded in 1937. It was hummingbirds. advance notice, wildlife guides.
established to protect the high
alpine meadows and the
gradations of thick Atlantic
rainforests that cover its steep
mountain ridges. It is the only
part of Rio de Janeiro state ever
to see snow, albeit rarely.
The scenery here is
magnificent. The highest
regions of the park are capped
with giant boulders, eroded into
strange organic shapes by
millions of years of rain and
wind. They sit on expansive
grassland coursed by babbling
brooks, which become fast-
flowing, clear-water rivers once
they reach the warmer forested
areas below. Here they tumble,
roar, and fall over waterfalls
and rapids.
The trees around them are
busy with primates. Curious
brown capuchin monkeys are
a common sight on the
numerous trails. Scarcer are the
beautiful and shy black-faced titi
monkeys, a threatened species. Trail through the verdant rainforests of Parque Nacional do Itatiaia
5 Petrópolis P Palácio de Cristal

Rua Alfredo Pachá, Centro.
Located in the mountains near Rio, Petrópolis owes its Tel (24) 2247 3721. Open 9am–
creation to the Brazilian royal family. Dom Pedro I’s dream 6pm Tue–Sun. 7
of building a summer residence here was fulfilled by his son, The metal structure and glass
enclosure of the Palácio de
Dom Pedro II, who was equally taken by the charms of the Cristal (Crystal Palace) were
region. In 1843, before construction of the palace began, he made in France in 1879 and
decreed the creation of Petrópolis as the summer seat of his shipped to Brazil. Inaugurated on
government. The city soon rose in importance, as trappings February 2, 1884, the palace is a
of royalty made their mark. Today, Petrópolis is popular for its fine example of the architectural
style that emerged during the
royal attractions, as well as for its mountain scenery and the
French industrial revolution.
national park of Serra dos Órgãos (see p119). Although it was originally
planned as a greenhouse for
growing orchids, the Palácio de
E Palácio Imperial Cristal was later meant to be an
See pp118–19. exhibition hall for hosting regular
displays of local products.
P Palácio Rio Negro However, it ended up as the
Av Koeller 255, Centro. Tel (24) 2426 imperial ballroom, and has been
2423. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat. the sight of many spectacular
8&
Built in 1889 by Barão do Rio Casa do Barão
Negro, a wealthy coffee baron, de Mauá
R
the palace acted as the seat io
AV P i
of the state government EN a b
ID a n
A h
between 1894 and 1902, when PI a
o
A
BA
Ri
Petrópolis was the capital of N
PRAÇA DA H A
Rio de Janeiro state. CONFLUÊNCIA
Between 1903 and 1960, Á Palácio

de Cristal
H
C
the palace served as the PA

O
RD E SIQUE
summer residence of the DR I R A
FE PA
AL
presidents of the Republic. Exterior of French-Gothic Catedral de São A U
A
RU R
While Vargas converted a Pedro de Alcântara
wine cellar into a Roman-
R Catedral de São Pedro
AV R i o
style bathhouse, Kubitschek

EN Q u
ID i t a
added built-in closets. All de Alcântara

A
R ndi
the original rooms are in Rua São Pedro de Alcântara 60,

SI nh
LV
EI a
excellent condition. Centro. Tel (24) 2242 4300.

RA
Open 9am–6pm daily. 7

Though the cathedral’s first
stone was laid in 1884 by
PR A Ç A R U I
Dom Pedro II, much of its Casa de
Santos B A R B O SA
current structure dates from Dumont
O
RÃ
1925. Built in French-Gothic R DO E
N BA
A DO NA
S
C
ANT R U Z O
style with a beautiful rose O A
AM
R
JO
window, it has a striking

ÁO
PE
interior decorated in Carrara

SS
OA
marble. The walls here depict Quitandinha

detailed scenes from the 4 miles (6 km)
Crucifixion.
The Imperial Chapel, to the parties. Most momentous were
right of the main entrance, the extravagant balls hosted by
contains the mortal remains of Princess Isabel and Count d’Eu,
King Dom Pedro II, Princess who is believed to have
Regent Dona Teresa Cristina, conceived the palace’s basic
their daughter Isabel, her design. It was during one such
husband Count d’Eu, and event in 1888 that Isabel signed
several other members of the an order liberating 103 slaves. On
royal family. Statues of the royal May 13 of the same year, Isabel
family are also featured inside went on to sign the Lei Aurea
Detail on the façade of Palácio the chapel. The 1848 baptismal (Golden Law), the decree that, in
Rio Negro font is the original. theory, abolished slavery in Brazil.
PETRÓPOLIS 117
Rio de Janeiro. * 287,000.
n Petrotur, Praça Visconde
de Mauá 305, (0800) 024 1516,
(24) 2233 1238.
Transport
@ Rua Porciúcula.
contain a workroom, a lounge-

cum-dining room, a bedroom,
and an office. The alcohol-heated
The metal-and-glass exhibition hall at the Palácio de Cristal shower in the bathroom was the
first of its kind in Brazil. There is
Although most of its former P Casa de Santos Dumont no kitchen because Dumont had
glory is lost, the palace today Rua do Encanto 22, Centro. Tel (24) all his meals sent in by the then
serves as an exhibition hall. It 2247 3158. Open 9:30am–5pm Tue– Palace Hotel.
occasionally hosts art shows Sun. & The fascinating personal
and cultural events. In 1918, the great Brazilian aviator collection of this delightful
and inventor of the wristwatch, inventor includes everyday
Alberto Santos Dumont (1873– objects, such as furniture,
B R ÃO D n h a
1932), designed and built his photographs, and various

O
RIO BAR a b a
CO
summerhouse in the style of a artifacts, including beautiful

AN
Pi
French alpine chalet and named vases and lamps.

AV
it “A Encantada,” or enchanted.
The three floors P Quitandinha
Av Joaquim Rolla 2. Tel (24) 2245
RU
2020. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,

A
Casa de
13
Rui Barbosa
10am–4pm Sun & public hols. & 7
DE
A
IPIRANG
Catedral de AVENIDA
M
An imposing palace built in

AI
São Pedro A
O
de Alcântara AR
PRAÇA CÂ
NT Norman style, Quitandinha is
Palácio de PRINCESA AL
Princesa Isabel ISABEL DE located southwest of the town
RUA
R
ÃO RO
RÉ
S
D
P E A center. Entrepreneur Joaquim
D
R DE
AN
TA M Rolla built it in 1944 to be the
AV
R UA
EN
LEON
ID A
ha T IR
AD
largest casino complex in South
in R
n d LE EN
TES America. For the exterior, Rolla
t a OE
ui K Palácio de
Q A
o
R i ENI
D Cultura copied the large casinos that
AV were popular at the time along
Palácio
Rio Negro the Normandy coast, while the
Salão das
Viaturas interior was by Dorothy Drape, a
RUA
I
Palácio PRAÇA
D RO famous Hollywood set designer.
VISCONDE D PE
D A IM
Amarelo
DE MAUA RUA Quitandinha’s glory ended in
PERA
1946, when President Dutra

RUA
I Palácio
TZ banned gambling. Remarkably
T R IZ
DE Imperial
D ÂN
M
R UA well preserved, today it is mainly
G
E LO
PRAÇA used for conventions and other

DOM
PEDRO II events. Its interior still recalls the
AR ÇO glamorous days of the 1940s
E M 0 meters 500
16 D
RUA when the guests were kings,
0 yards 500 queens, and Hollywood stars.
Petrópolis
1 Palácio Imperial
2 Palácio Rio Negro
3 Catedral de São Pedro
de Alcântara
4 Palácio de Cristal
5 Casa de Santos Dumont
6 Quitandinha The Norman-style architecture of the Quitandinha palace complex
Petrópolis: Palácio Imperial

Built by Dom Pedro II between 1845 and 1864, the Neo-
Classical Imperial Palace was used by the Emperor as his
summer residence every year from 1848 until the end of the
monarchy and declaration of independence in 1889. In that
year, the palace was leased out as a college, and continued
to function as such until President Vargas passed a decree in
1943 creating the Imperial Museum. Among the highlights
of the museum, which faithfully reflect the daily life of the
Brazilian royal family, are the Imperial Crown Jewels, as well
as other artifacts, paintings, and furniture that belonged to
the Emperor and his family. . Crown Jewels
The Imperial Crown of Dom Pedro
II is the most valuable piece in the
collection and was made for his
coronation on July 18, 1841, when
he was just 15 years old.
Sala do Primeiro
Reinado
This room features the last
painting of Dom Pedro I in
Brazil prior to his abdication
on April 7, 1831.
. Cetro
The Imperial Scepter, depicting Entrance
an open-mouthed dragon
with outstretched wings, was
made in 1822 for the coronation Ground floor
of Dom Pedro I.
Museum Guide
The ground floor displays royal
exhibits, and prominently features
the Crown Jewels. The first floor
houses the State Room, as well as
the royal bedrooms. The museum is
set in a pretty garden designed by
Jean Baptiste Binot, a French
landscape artist. Elegant Neo-Classical façade of the Palácio Imperial
Gabinete VISITORS’ CHECKLIST 6 Teresópolis

The study features
Rio de Janeiro. * 140,000. @ from
Brazil’s first Practical Information
Rio de Janeiro City. n Centro
telephone, Rua da Imperatriz 220, Petrópolis.
Turistico, (21) 2644 4095.
presented to Dom Tel (24) 2237 8000.
Pedro II in 1876 by Open museum: 11am–6pm Tue– Set amid pretty countryside,
Alexander Sun; sound & light show: 8pm Teresópolis is known for its
Graham Bell. Thu, Fri & Sat. & free entry to the artisan fair in Praça Higino da
garden from 8am–5pm on Sun.
Silveira, which is lined with
-0
∑ museuimperial.gov.br
more than 700 stands at week-
ends. Just 3 miles (5 km) south
of the town center, the
Orquidário Aranda is one of
Brazil’s best orchid farms, with
over 3,000 varieties on display.
Y Orquidário Aranda
Rua João Daudt de Oliveira s/n.
Tel (21) 2742 0628. 8 9am–4:30pm
Mon–Fri.
7 Parque Nacional
da Serra dos Órgãos
Rio de Janeiro.@ from Rio de Janeiro.
n (21) 2152 1100. Open 8am–5pm
. Sala de Estado daily. & 8 
The throne on show in the State
Room came from the palace in Created in 1939, this national
First floor São Cristovão. park covers an area of approxi-
mately 46 sq miles (105 sq km)
that stretches from Teresópolis
Sala de Música across to Petrópolis. The park
Besides a rare triangular
offers good climbing and treks,
spinet built by Mathias
including a spectacular three-
Bosten in 1788, the
music room also has a day guided trek of 26 miles
beautiful harp. (42 km) between the two
towns. Among the park’s most
notable peaks are the 7,425-ft
(2,263-m) Pedra do Sino, the
highest in the mountain range,
and the more famous Dedo
de Deus (God’s Finger), which
stands 5,512 ft (1,680 m) high.
Of the many entrance
points to the park, the most
popular and best equipped
is located 3 miles (5 km) south
Sala do Senado features the of Teresópolis.
1872 Fala do Trono (Speech
from the Throne), a portrait
of Dom Pedro II in full regalia.
Key Room of His Majesty

The Dining Room Princesa Isabel’s Room
The Music Room Lobby
The Royal Costumes & Scepter The Empress’s Sewing Room
The Imperial Throne The Empress’s Piano Room
Dom Pedro II’s Study Saleta
The Princesses’ Room Senate Room
Imperial Brazilian Jewelry Other Exhibition Space Dedo de Deus (God’s Finger), Parque Nacional
Dom Pedro I’s Room Non-Exhibition Space da Serra dos Órgãos
8 Búzios Yachts bob in the bay in front of

Rio de Janeiro. @ from Cabo Frio.
Búzios town, which is little more
n Praça Santos Dumont, (22) 2623 than a cluster of cobblestoned
2099. ® ∑ buziosturismo.com streets lined with smart
boutiques and restaurants.
Since Brigitte Bardot’s visit to During high season, the resort
Búzios in 1964 with her then buzzes with cruiseship
boyfriend, Brazilian actor Bob passengers and middle-class
Zagury, this peninsula has Brazilian tourists who shop by
developed from a quiet string day on Rua das Pedras, the
of isolated fishing villages town’s main thoroughfare,
lost in semitropical maquis, sip cocktails in the evening
into one of the country’s at one of the oceanfront
most stylish low-key pousadas, and then dance
resorts. Private homes, the night away in the
designer boutiques, Ibiza-style clubs and One of the souvenir shops lining Rua das
and little pousadas beachside bars. Pedras in Búzios
cling to its hills or Búzios’s raison d’être
watch over the is its beaches, which way to see them is to rent a
numerous beaches. range from half- beach buggy and explore,
Beach buggies driven Statue of Brigitte moon bays to long armed with one of the
by vacationers buzz Bardot on the Orla stretches of fine ubiquitous free maps of the
along the scruffy roads. Bardot white sand. The best peninsula available from every
Beaches of Costa do Sul

SOUTHEAST
The southern coast, extending between Niterói and Búzios, BRAZIL
RIO DE
is best known for its landscape, outstanding beaches, and JANEIRO
&
upmarket resorts. Attractive beaches and sparkling waters ESPÍRITO
Rio de SANTO
make it ideal for a lazy stretch on the sand, or a dip in the Janeiro
clean waters. With its crashing waves and a steady breeze,
this stretch is popular for windsurfing. It is easy to find Locator Map
accommodation here, both in busy resorts and isolated Costa do Sul
fishing villages.
Maricá, a quiet resort town, sits at the foot of

forest-covered hills and looks over its own lagoon.
Of its many beaches, the best is 11-mile (17-km)
Praia de Itaipuaçu, which is watched over by the
Pedra do Elefante, a miniature Sugar Loaf.
124
R
MA
DO
128
RA
SER Sampaio
Bacaxa
114 Correia
Tribobó Manoel 106 Saquarema
106
Ribeiro Lagoa de Jacone
RIO DE 104
Barra Nova
JANEIRO
Jacone Praia
Rio do Ouro Maricá Lagoa de Ponta Itaúna
Niterói Guarapina Negra Praia
108
Inoã Restinga
Praia Jacone
Praia de Marica
Itaipuaçu Ponta
Boa Viagem Negra
E A N
Praia
Praia Praia de da Barra
Piratininga Itaipu Itaipuaçu O C
Praia
I C
Itacoatiara
A N T
L Saquarema is best known for surfing.
A T All the beaches have powerful
waves and surfing championships
0 km 100
are held on Itaúna, 2 miles (3 km)
0 miles 100 east of town.
other hotel reception. The the fiercest waves and is a sides, and is an unofficial nudist
peninsula is extremely well popular surf beach. Olho de beach. Ferradurinha, at the
signposted, and since it is only Boi, which can be reached only peninsula’s southern extreme,
4 miles (6 km) long and 2 miles via a rocky trail that runs from has clear, calm waters and
(4 km) wide, it is difficult to get Brava’s southern end, is natural swimming pools,
lost here. surrounded by rocky hills on all good for a dip.
Many of the beaches,
including the two sets of twin
sheltered coves – at Praia João
Fernandes, Praia João
Fernandinho, Praia Azeda, and
Praia Azedinha – are within half
an hour’s walk of town. Others
are a beach buggy ride away.
Praia da Ferradura, on the
opposite side from Búzios, is
one of the most beautiful
beaches near town, and one of
the least spoilt by hotel devel-
opment. Fishermen still work
from here at dawn and dusk.
Praia Brava, at the peninsula’s
eastern extreme, is washed by The small, isolated Praia Azeda, known for its tranquil waters
Cabo Frio is a triumph of

concrete over natural beauty.
The region’s busiest resort,
it overflows with locals at
Rio de Janeiro. Cabo Frio: n Av
weekends. There is good surf
Américo Vespúcio 200, (22) 2647
on the numerous beaches and
1689. Arraial do Cabo: n Av do
dune-boarding at Praia do Peró,
Liberdade 50, (24) 2622 1650.
5 miles (8 km) north.
Araruama: n Av Brasil 655
(22) 2665 5700. Saquarema:
n Secretaria de Turismo, Rua
Coronel Madureira 77, (22)
2651 2123. Maricá: n Av Ver
Praia da Francisco Sabino da Costa 945,
Tartaruga Armacão
de Búzios (21) 3731 5094.
106
178 Praia de Transport
Tucuns
@ from Rio.
104
Praia do
136 Sáo Pedro Peró
138
Iguaba da Aldeia
Grande Praia das
Iguaba Porto do Conchas
Pequena Carro
Cabo Frio
Lagoa de
Araruama Araruama
Praia Seca Figueira 132
Lagoa Praia Arraial do Cabo
Vermelha Praia Grande
Massambaba Praia do ILHA DO
Cabo Frio CABO FRIO
Praia
Vilatur
Araruama, one of the

largest lakes in Brazil,
is ringed by myriad
long white-sand Arraial do Cabo town itself is
beaches. A constant uninspiring but the confluence
breeze makes for good of currents around the cape
windsurfing. It is also provides the best diving in
famous for its medicinal southeastern Brazil and a wealth
mud and high salinity. of magnificent beaches.

Terceira Ponte Bridge connecting Vila Velha to Vitória
9 Guarapari 0 Vitória Ponte. Although few colonial

Espírito Santo. * 2,000. @ from Espírito Santo. * 292,000. ~ @
buildings remain, it is home to
Vitória. n Rua Paulo de Aguiar 68, from Rio. n Secretaria Municipal de the architectural symbol of the
Centro, (27) 3262 8759. Turismo, Rua Hélio Marconi 150, Bento city, Convento da Nossa
Ferreira, (27) 3315 5540. _ Carnaval Senhora da Penha. Sitting high
Espírito Santo’s busiest beach (Feb/Mar). on a lush palm-covered hill
resort is fringed by dozens of overlooking Vitória Bay, its thick
long, white beaches. People The capital city of Espírito Santo fortified walls beautifully reflect
from Minas Gerais rush down is dominated by an expansive both the sunrise and sunset. The
on weekends to bask on the bay with sheltered crescent monastery was founded in 1558
sandy beaches of Guarapari, coves, and surrounded by a and preserves fine 16th-century
said to have mildy radioactive bottle-green open ocean. wood carvings and one of
healing properties. The best Vitória was originally made up Brazil’s first paintings, Nossa
beach, Praia do Morro, lies to of 36 distinct islands, but Senhora das Alegrias, by an
the north of the city and has a landfills have now reduced unknown early 16th-century
nature reserve. Praia do Meio, these to just a handful, con- Iberian artist. At the base of
also to the north, has rock pools nected by five bridges. Praia do the hill is the simple Igreja
filled with clear water, and is Camburí, the main beach south Nossa Senhora do Rosário, the
good for snorkeling. of the city is a busy 4-mile oldest church in the state,
Guarapari offers light (6-km) stretch, dotted with dating from 1551.
adventure activities, such as restaurants and hotels. South of Vilha Velha, Praia da
rappeling, rafting, and some of Across the river, Vila Velha Costa is not as busy a beach as
the best diving in the Southeast. (Old Town), the most interesting Camburí, but is a good place
The town also has a lively part of the city, is reached by to go bodysurfing.
nightlife scene. the majestic bridge, Terceira Manguezal de Vitória, situated
northwest of Vitória, is the largest
stretch of urban mangroves in
South America. The mangroves
are an important nursery for
marine life and can be visited
by boat alongside a number
of the bay’s wilder islands.
R Convento da Nossa Senhora

da Penha
Rua Vasco Coutinho, Prainha, Vila
Velha, Vitória. Tel (27) 3329 0420.
Open 5:30am–4:45pm Mon–Sat,
4:30am–4:45pm Sun.
} Manguezal de Vitória
Santuário de Santo Antônio. 8 boat
tours to Manguezal, Av Dario
Sunbathers on Praia do Morro in Guarapari Lourenço de Souza, (27) 3345 6605.
q Pedra Azul
Espírito Santo. @ from Vitória.
n Parque Estadual da Pedra Azul, (27)
3248 1156. Open 8am–5pm daily. &
8 from 9am & 1:30pm daily (book in
advance). ∑ pedraazul.com.br
Sitting in a tiny island of

remnant Mata Atlântica forest,
the 500-m- (1,640-ft-) high
Pedra Azul (Blue Stone) rises
in the middle of the Parque
Estadual da Pedra Azul, forming
a stunning centerpiece. Its
natural color is an almost
polished blue-grey, but shifts
in hue and shade depending
on the light: coal-black and
brooding under a dark cloud,
burning orange with the setting
sun, or silvery white under a Dramatic Pedra Azul, a granite monolith
full moon.
The small visitors’ center at w Itaúnas sea. Ocelots, caimans, and
the foot of the stone is a good Espírito Santo. * 2,500. @ from
capybaras live here, along with
place to collect a detailed map Vitória. _ Festa de Forró (Jul). an impressive variety of rare
of the park. A ranger will also waterbirds and small mammals.
point out the trail leading up This sleepy little fishing town The smattering of hotels in
to the stone – a fairly easy but lies tucked away in the far north town offer dune buggy tours,
long walk punctuated by nine of Espírito Santo on the border during which you cross dozens
natural pools where visitors with Bahia. Long strands of of towering dunes and empty
can take a refreshing dip. The beaches stretch to the north turtle-nesting beaches, event-
trail is closed during and after and south of the town. These ually reaching the sandy cliffs
heavy rains. Serious climbers have drifted into dunes so large on the state border with Bahia.
are permitted to camp in the that the first settlement here lies Itaúnas itself is surprisingly
park for free. submerged, the remains of lively for a town so small. It is
The forest surrounding Pedra the original church tower famous, particularly among
Azul is small but it is the nesting occasionally appearing from the students, for its exuberant
ground for a diverse variety sand after a strong wind. The samba and axé parties, which
of wildlife. Hummingbirds, town lies next to the Rio Itaúnas continue from December to
tanagers, and tiny tufted-eared which spreads into broad March, and its exciting forró
marmosets are a common sight. marshy meadows behind the dance festival in July.
Sand dunes flanking the sleepy fishing town of Itaúnas along the Rio Itaúnas
MINAS GERAIS
The state of Minas Gerais is dotted with pretty colonial towns,
set in a stunning landscape of rugged hills. Of these, Ouro
Preto, Congonhas, and Diamantina are UNESCO World
Heritage Sites. Beyond the towns is pastoral country broken
by wilderness, much of which has been protected by a series of
national and state parks, where several rare species of animals,
birds, and plants can be seen.
Minas’s old mining towns are laid out the tablelands of the Brazilian shield. Their
along the Estrada Real, once Brazil’s first cerrado forests are cut by several rivers that
great wagon trail and now one of its major plunge dramatically over the edges of the
tourist routes. The most famous is Ouro mesetas (tabletop mountains), forming
Preto, named after the black gold that was some of the world’s highest waterfalls.
discovered here in the late 17th century The mountains of the Serra do Caparaó
by an itinerant adventurer (bandeirante), protect a swathe of the Mata Atlântica,
who came through the vast interior in dripping with orchids and the habitat of
search of slaves. Gold brought a rush of one of the few remaining populations of
speculators and new discoveries and by woolly spider monkey – the Americas’
the mid-18th century ramshackle mining largest and rarest primate.
camps had grown into prosperous towns. The state capital, Belo Horizonte, is a
Today, Ouro Preto, Tiradentes, Mariana, modern industrial city with a lively café
São João del Rei, Congonhas, and life. President Juscelino Kubitschek’s
Diamantina preserve some of the finest favorite architect, Oscar Niemeyer,
ecclesiastical buildings and Baroque adorned the city’s Pampulha
carvings in the Americas. neighborhood with several structures
The state’s spectacular parks are home before building the nation’s capital,
to the maned wolf, as well as a plethora Brasília. Minas is also well known for its
of endemic birds and plants. The Serra distinct cuisine and its rich literary and
do Cipó and the Serra da Canastra lie on musical heritage.
A breathtaking view of mauve ipê flowers in full bloom outside Diamantina

The cross at the top of the Igreja de São Francisco de Assis, Ouro Preto
Exploring Minas Gerais

Belo Horizonte, the capital of Minas Gerais, is the focus of
life here. Most colonial mining towns, including Ouro Preto
and Congonhas, lie immediately to its south. Mariana,
another colonial city south of Belo Horizonte, is still a
working mining center. Farther south, and a day’s drive
from the capital, is the hilly Serra da Canastra National Park.
Northern Minas is much wilder, with large tracts of cerrado
forest in the Serra do Cipó and around Diamantina. The
extreme north is arid, dominated by the sertão, a region of Painting inside Igreja Nossa Senhora do
scrub and grassland, whose distinct culture and language Carmo, Diamantina
was mythologized in the most famous of all Brazilian novels,
Formoso
Grande Sertão: Veredas, by João Guimarães Rosa (see p35). Serra
Piratinga
Bonita
Buritis
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities Ur
Garapuava uc
u ia
1 Diamantina
3 Belo Horizonte Unaí
Bonfinópolis
4 Ouro Preto pp130–32 de Minas
5 Mariana
Pr
et
o
7 Tiradentes
8 São João del Rei Paracatu
National Parks & Areas of João

Pinheiro
uat
Natural Beauty
rac
2 Parque Nacional Serra
Pa
do Cipó
9 Parque Nacional Serra
Presidente
da Canastra Tupaciguara Olegário
Araguari
Historic Buildings Santa Vitória Uberlândia
Tiros
6 Basílica do Senhor Bom Ituiutaba Patrocínio
Jesus de Matosinhos,
íba
Pr
ata Tij
Ara u co Ibiá
Congonhas
a
ntes
Paran
pp134–5 Campina
Iturama Uberaba Araxá
Verde
Grande Itapajipe PARQUE NACIONAL

SERRA DA CANASTRA
Planura
Gr
an
dePiumhí
Cássia
São Sebastião
do Paraíso
Alfenas
Poços
de Caldas
Pouso
Alegre
Ouro Preto, the architecturally stunning colonial city in Minas Gerais

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p373 and pp388–9
MINAS GERAIS 127
0 kilometers 100
0 miles 100
Matias Sunset in the cerrado landscape of Serra da Canastra

Cardoso
Espinosa
Itacarambi
Monte Azul
Pan
de
ir
Planalto São João
do Paraíso
Januária
os
do Brazil Pardo
São Taiobeiras
Janaúba Pedra Azul
e
Francisco nha
e Grand
Sã rancisco
Jequitin ho
Salinas Almenara
Medina Jacinto
Verd
oF
Montes Jequitinhonha
ha
on
Claros nh
ti
Santa Fé
ui
de Minas Araçuaí
Jeq
Águas
Bocaiúva Formosas
Turmalina
Pirapora
Várzea Pavão
Mucuri
da Palma Pico de Carbonita Carlos Chagas
Itambé
6,670 ft Poté
Canoeiros (2,033 m) Itamarandiba Teófilo Otôni
mbacuri
Corinto DIAMANTINA
M I N A S G E R A I S
I ta
Represa de
TrÍs Marias Sêrro Guanhães Governador
Felixlândia Curvelo Valadares
Virginópolis
Pompéu
Conselheiro
Pena
Paraopeba PARQUE NACIONAL
SERRA DO CIPÓ Ipatinga Aimorés
Pará de
Minas Caratinga Key
BELO HORIZONTE
Highway
Divinópolis Manhuaçu Major road
Formiga
OURO PRETO MARIANA Minor road
CONGONHAS Railroad
Viçosa
State border
SÃO JOÃO Muriaé Peak
TIRADENTES
DEL REI
Varginha
Juiz Além
de Fora Paraíba
Agulhas Negras
9,143 ft (2,787 m)
Itajubá Getting Around
Belo Horizonte has two airports and is connected several
times a day with all the Brazilian state capitals. There are
few other airports in the state and transport beyond the
capital is limited to buses, which are generally comfortable
and frequent. Another option is to rent a car. Driving is
possible during the day, even though many of the smaller
roads are blighted with enormous potholes.
the 18th century, Francisca

(Chica) da Silva was a mulatta
slave who became one of the
few black people to become
accepted by high colonial
society through sheer force
of personality.
Environs
A string of stunning natural
locations lies within easy reach
of Diamantina, the most
impressive of which is Biribiri,
located 7 miles (12 km) north of
town. A historical village, Biribiri
is home to many fazendas and is
surrounded by waterfalls and
mountains. Next to Biribiri is a
Old fazenda in the beautiful village of Biribiri near Diamantina winding blackwater river and
the Parque Rio Preto, a good
1 Diamantina on opposite sides connected location for bird-watching.
* 48,000. @ Largo Dom João 134, by an enclosed, brilliant blue,
second-story passageway. The E Casa de Chica da Silva
(38) 3531 1471. n Praça Juscelino
Kubitschek 25, (38) 3531 8060. building is not open to the public. Praça Lobo Mesquita 266. Tel (38)
∑ diamantina.com.br There are several churches in 3531 2491. Open noon–5pm Tue–Sat,
Diamantina. The oldest is the 9am–1pm Sun.
Nestled in rugged hills and Nossa Senhora do Rosário, in E Museu Casa do Diamante
shrouded with cerrado forest, the square of the same name, a Rua Direita 14. Tel (38) 3531 1382.
Diamantina is the prettiest and short distance to the northeast of Open noon–5:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–
best preserved of all the colonial the Praça Guerra. It was built and noon Sun. &
cities in the state, and also a used by the enslaved black com-
E Museu de Juscelino
UNESCO World Heritage Site. munity and the city’s poor. Next
Kubitschek
Diamonds were discovered here to it is an original 18th-century
Rua São Francisco 241. Tel (38) 3531
in 1728, when the city was a fountain whose waterspouts are 3607. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sat,
small settlement called Arraial bas-reliefs of African heads. 8am–1pm Sun. &
do Tijuco. Within a few decades A block south is the
the mud huts and encamp- spectacular Nossa Senhora do R Nossa Senhora do Carmo
ments transformed into one of Carmo. Built between 1760 and Rua do Carmo. Open 8am–noon,
the wealthiest towns in Brazil. 1784, it was the town’s richest 2–6pm Tue–Sun, 8am–noon Sun.
The city is tiny and most of its church and attended by the R Nossa Senhora do Rosário
historic buildings and churches elite white community. It is Largo do Rosário. Open 1–5pm Mon–
lie within easy walking distance remarkable chiefly for the Fri, 9am–noon, 2–5pm Sat & Sun.
of the main square, Praça interior paintings by
Guerra. This is an obvious point José Soares de Araujo,
of orientation as it is dominated from Braga, Portugal.
by the twin towers of the largest Araujo’s works lie in
building in the city – the many of the town’s
Catedral Metropolitana de Santo churches but those here
Antônio, built in the 1930s. Just are his finest. The ceiling
south of this in the adjacent paintings are very
Praça Juscelino Kubitschek is a striking. Near the back of
small Museu Casa do Diamante, the church is a portrait
which houses a handful of the of the Prophet Elijah
stones, together with iron collars ascending to heaven
once fitted onto slaves. in a chariot of fire.
South again is the Museu de The Casa de Chica
Juscelino Kubitschek, the da Silva, a smart town
modest former home of the house one block south
Brazilian president, Juscelino of the Nossa Senhora
Kubitschek (1902–76), who built do Carmo, is famous far
Brasília (see pp306–7). Two more for its former
blocks west is the city’s most owner than it is for its
beautiful landmark, the Casa da small collection of
Gloria, consisting of two houses period furniture. During Nave, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo
MINAS GERAIS 129
3 Belo Horizonte Baile, with its sweeping curved

* 3,000,000. k ~ @ £ walkway that functioned as a
n Aloturismo (Belotur’s hotline), (31) ballroom till 1946, and the twin
3277 9777. _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar). sports stadia, which are a clear
∑ pbh.gov.br precursor to the gymnasium
Niemeyer designed for Brasília.
The capital city of Minas Gerais In the inner city, the Museu
was laid out in the 1890s and Mineiro preserves some fine
resembles a mini São Paulo. colonial-era religious art,
Clusters of seemingly endless including a number of
skyscraper apartment blocks sit paintings attributed to Mestre
in a broad valley under lush hills. Athayde (1762–1830). Beyond
Belo Horizonte is known this, Belo Horizonte’s main
worldwide for its visionary attractions are the lively
architecture. Its architectural restaurant and nightlife
highlights lie in the suburb of scene around the inner-city
Magnificent waterfall at Parque Nacional Pampulha, often regarded as neighborhoods of Lourdes and
Serra do Cipó the blueprint for Brasília. The Savassi. These areas have many
buildings are set in expansive chic restaurants, which often
2 Parque Nacional gardens designed by Roberto have live music playing during
Serra do Cipó Burle Marx (1909–94), gathered the weekends (see pp388–9). The
around a large, Lourdes and Savassi
@ from Belo Horizonte to
beautiful artificial neighborhoods are
Jaboticatubas, or Santana do lake. All were com- easily explored on
Riacho. n Secretaria de Turismo,
missioned by the foot and make a
(31) 3718 7017. Tel (31) 3486 6771.
then mayor of Belo pleasant walk.
Open 8am–5pm daily. 8 ® Cipó
Veraneio Hotel, Rodovia MG-10,
Horizonte, Juscelino
Serra do Cipó, (31) 3718 7000. Kubitschek, and Environs
∑ cipoveraneiohotel.com.br designed by the The colonial towns
renowned architect of Sabará, Caeté,
Just northeast of Belo Oscar Niemeyer in and Santa Luiza,
Horizonte, the state capital, the 1940s. to the east of Belo
this 131-sq-mile (338-sq-km) The most impressive Azulejos on the Horizonte, lie less
national park lies in high of all the buildings is outside walls of São than half an hour’s
rugged country in the Serra the Igreja de São Francisco de Assis drive away. All
do Espinhaço mountains, Francisco de Assis, preserve fine Baroque
which run through the middle which was built in 1943 as a churches and streets of
of northern Minas Gerais. series of parabolic arches in 18th-century town houses.
Cipó protects some pristine concrete, and has a wonderful
areas of cerrado as well as sense of light and space. On the R Igreja de São Francisco
the watersheds of many of the outside walls are a series of de Assis
tributaries of the São Francisco azulejos, or Portuguese blue Av Otacilio Negrão de Lima 3000,
and the Doce rivers. Waterfalls, tiles, depicting scenes from the Pampulha. Tel (31) 3427 1644.
plants, rare animals, and life of St. Francis and painted by Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, noon–5pm
birds are abundant, making Brazil’s foremost Modernist Sun. & 7 ^
this one of the most beautiful artist, Candido Portinari (1903– E Museu Mineiro
national parks in Minas Gerais. 62). Other important buildings Av João Pinheiro 342. Tel (31) 3269
It is particularly lovely in in the Pampulha complex 1168. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri,
May and June when the include the dance hall Casa do 10am–4pm Sat & Sun. &
skies are invariably blue, the
rivers full, and many of the
numerous wildflowers in
bloom. This is also a good
time to go on a guided tour,
at dawn or dusk, to spot
pumas, giant anteaters,
ocelots, maned wolves,
and howling monkeys on
the quieter trails.
The park is a popular
location for ecotourism –
particularly rock climbing,
with excellent facilities and
accommodation options. Igreja de São Francisco de Assis in Pampulha, Belo Horizonte
4 Street-by-Street: Ouro Preto

Ouro Preto, or “Black Gold,” earned its name shortly after its
founding in 1698 from tarnished gold nuggets mined in the
surrounding areas. It still resembled a boom town when it
was given city status in 1711. By the mid-18th century,
however, the gold rush had turned Ouro Preto into a wealthy
town with fine buildings. It nurtured a generation of some
of Latin America’s finest artists and craftsmen, including the
ecclesiastical painter Mestre Athayde and the great sculptor
Aleijadinho among others. Ouro Preto became the base of
the Inconfidência rebellion led by Tiradentes against Casa dos Contos
Once the gold exchange,
Portuguese colonists. then a prison, the building
is now a small
museum
dedicated to
money and
finance.
A
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A cluster of colonial buildings in hilly Ouro Preto LA
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. Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar
Exquisite artwork is showcased in this
R
PILA
opulent Brazilian Baroque church,

resplendent in gold. The carvings in
DO
the chancel are breathtaking.

UA
R Museu do
Oratório
0 meters 100
0 yards 100
OURO PRETO 131
. Matriz de Nossa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Senhora da Conceição
Manuel Francisco Libsoa
transformed this once-rustic
Minas Gerais. * 65,000.
church into one of the city’s n Praça Tiradentes 41, (31) 3559
most magnificently
3269. _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar).
decorated cathedrals.
Casa dos Contos: Rua São José 12.
Tel (31) 3551 1444. Igreja de
Nossa Senhora de Carmo: Rua B.
Musqueira. Tel (31) 3551 2601.
Transport
@ from Belo Horizonte.
Statue of Tiradentes
The leader of the Inconfidentes was
the only rebel against the Portuguese
colonizers to be executed. He is a cult
figure in Brazil, mainly for the poor.
DO DE
AR VA S C O N C E LO S
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Aleijadinho. The museum

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preserves a small collection of

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Aleijadinho’s works.
I TA
Key
Suggested route
NA
S TA S E
CO
R UA
Museu da
Inconfidência features
relics related to the
Inconfidentes, as well as
drawings by Aleijadinho.
Igreja de Nossa
Senhora do Carmo
The Rococo font (in
the sacristy), door- . Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
case, the altars, and One of Latin America’s most important
the statue of Santa Helena in Rococo buildings, the church combines
this church are all attributed the finest work of Aleijadinho and
to Aleijadinho. Mestre Athayde.
Exploring Ouro Preto mounted by knights in

diamond-studded robes.
One of the first gold towns in Minas Gerais and a former state Nearly half a ton each of gold
capital, Ouro Preto is built on a series of hills. Steep, curving and silver were used to gild its
streets lined with 18th-century residences, many of which interior, which is largely the
work of 18th-century sculptor
have now been converted into restaurants, bars, and shops, Francisco Xavier de Brito, an
link the hills. Within the town, the streets lead to pretty little expatriate Portuguese. The gilt
squares dominated by Baroque churches and stately town carving of Christ on the Cross
houses. These include the churches of São Francisco de Assis on the door-case to the capela-
and Nossa Senhora do Pilar, whose interiors bear the stamp of mor (apsidal chapel) and the
Resurrection scene on the
some of Latin America’s finest artists and craftsmen.
tabernacle are regarded as de
Brito’s finest work.
R Igreja de São Francisco is believed to have been
de Assis Aleijadinho’s first great carving.
Largo de Coimbra. Tel (31) 3551 4661. It was followed by others,
Open 8:30am–noon, 1:30–5pm Tue– including the ornately carved
Sun. & door-case and the front of the
This understated, elegant little sacristy at the rear of the church.
church was constructed
between 1766 and 1802 and R Matriz de Nossa Senhora
seems modest next to many of do Pilar
Latin America’s grand Baroque Praça Mons Castilho Barbosa. Tel (31)
churches. It is characterized by 3551 4736. Open 9–10:45am, noon–
gentle curves, from the elegant 4:45pm Tue–Sun. 5 7am Mon–Fri,
S-shaped balustrades of its 7am & 7pm Sat & Sun, 7pm 1st Fri of
façade to the exquisitely unified, the month. & ^
undulating lines of its interior. Commissioned by two of the
The quality of the church’s wealthiest ecclesiastical orders
beauty lies in the mastery of its in Ouro Preto, this church was
art, created by two of Brazil’s intended as a showpiece of
greatest artists, Aleijadinho (see their influence. Pomp and Façade of Matriz de Nossa Senhora
p135) and his long-term partner circumstance surrounded its da Conceição
Manuel da Costa Athayde inauguration in 1731, which
(1762–1830). The tablet on the witnessed grand processions R Matriz de Nossa Senhora
church’s façade showing St. of clergy in opulent vestments da Conceição
Francis receiving the stigmata and horses in velvet mantles Praça Antônio Dias. Tel (31) 3551 4661.
Open 8:30am–noon Tue–Sat, noon–
5pm Sun. &
Built by Manuel Francisco
Lisboa, this church was
constructed between 1727
and 1770. It is most celebrated
for its harmonious proportions –
the unity of curves and
straight lines on the façade
and the sense of space
generated by what is in
reality a modest nave and
chancel. Manuel Francisco
only added the finishing
touches to the heavily gilt
interior, and the sculptors of
the elaborate interior, with its
eight splendid altars, remain
largely unknown. Both Lisboa
and his son Aleijadinho are
buried in the church.
There is a small museum
devoted to the life and times of
Aleijadinho in the basement of
the church, containing only very
Ceiling painting by Athayde in Igreja de São Francisco de Assis few of his pieces.
MINAS GERAIS 133
dates from 1760 and is also

referred to as the Basílica da Sé.
Its exterior is modest, but the
interior has some of the finest
ceiling paintings by the
16th-century Portuguese artist,
Manuel Rabello de Sousa. It also
contains an exquisite 18th-
century German organ and
altarpieces by Francisco Xavier
de Brito, and a portal and lavebo
attributed to Aleijadinho. The
organ was a gift to the diocese
Praça Gomes Freire in Mariana, lined by fine 18th-century houses when Mariana was the foremost
city in inland Brazil. Restored in
5 Mariana from the late 18th century and 1984, it can be heard during
* 47,000. @ n Praça Tancredo sit next to each other in front regular weekend organ recitals.
Neves, (31) 3557 1158. of the colonial building, the Just around the corner to the
Casa de Camara. south of the basilica is the most
The oldest colonial town in The church of São Francisco interesting of the civic buildings,
Minas Gerais, Mariana, which de Assis is decorated with the Museu Arquidiocesano
was also a significant mining ceiling paintings by Manuel da de Arte Sacra. This preserves
town, was the capital of the Costa Athayde, who was buried paintings by Athayde, objets
state in the first half of the in the church. Especially worth d’art by Aleijadinho, and
18th century and far seeing are the evocative antique liturgical objects. Its
more important than its scenes of the death of St. façade is crowned with a
immediate neighbor, Francis, showing the saint medal by Aleijadinho.
Ouro Preto. in serene contemplation in
The simple 18th- an Italian pastoral land- R Basílica de Nossa Senhora
century Basílica de scape, combined with the da Assunção
São Pedro dos Clérigos Brazilian landscape. Rua Padre Gonçalves Lopes. Tel (31)
stands on top of the The Nossa Senhora do 3557 1216. Open 6am–8pm Tue–Sun.
city’s only hill. From here, Unique Carmo also has striking E Museu Arquidiocesano de
there are spectacular window in paintings by Athayde. Arte Sacra
views of Mariana’s small Mariana Although damaged by fire Rua Frei Durão. Tel (31) 3557 2581.
colonial center. in 1999, the church is still Open 8:30am–noon, 1:30–5pm
The main focus of the old remarkable for its delicately Tue–Fri, 8:30am–2pm Sat, Sun &
town is the Praça Gomes balanced and very Portuguese public hols. &
Freire, a lovely garden square exterior. Known for its gentle
R Nossa Senhora do Carmo
surrounded by 18th-century curves and round towers, it also
town houses. A short distance has exquisite lozenge-shaped Praça Minas Gerais.
west of Praça Gomes Freire are key windows. Open 9am–4pm daily.
the twin churches of São The city’s other famous R São Francisco de Assis
Francisco de Assis and Nossa church is the Basílica de Nossa Praça Minas Gerais.
Senhora do Carmo. Both date Senhora da Assunção, which Open 9am–5pm daily.
View of Mariana and the twin churches from Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos
6Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus

de Matosinhos, Congonhas
Completed in 1771, the Baroque church of Bom Jesus de
Matosinhos was built by the diamond miner Feliciano Mendes,
who, after recovering from the brink of death, vowed to build a
church in homage to “Bom Jesus.” At the entrance of the church,
12 soapstone statues of prophets from the Old Testament overlook
a gently sloping garden, where six chapels containing life-size
Painted Ceiling
figures commemorate episodes from the Passion of Christ. The Painted by Bernardo Pires da
church is famous for preserving the most impressive Silva in 1776, the artwork on
ensemble of statues in Latin America, carved by the ceiling is regarded as the
Aleijadinho between 1780 and 1814. finest Rococo church
painting in Brazil.
Carved Altar
Designed by sculptor Aleijadinho, the
altar was beautifully carved by his
disciple, João Antunes de Carvalho.
KEY
1 The Crucifixion is particularly

grisly, depicting smiling soldiers
hammering nails into a spread-
eagled Christ, his face contorted
in agony.
2 Amos
3 Jonah
4 Obadiah
5 Baruch
Isaiah
6 Daniel
The sculpture of Isaiah has
7 Hosea narrow shoulders and
8 Ezekiel disproportionately short
arms, and is thought to
9 Jeremiah
have been carved by
0 Joel Aleijadinho’s students.
q Nahum
w Christ carrying the cross,
a sculpture portraying one of the
stations in the Passion of Christ. . The Prophet Habakukk
e The Flagellation of Christ and Aleijadinho’s sculptures are celebrated
the Coronation with Thorns for having an air of theatricality and
depicts a prelude to the Crucifixion. accentuated characteristics, both
striking in his statue of Habakukk.
MINAS GERAIS 135
Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de
Matosinhos, Congonhas.
n FUMCULT, Praça Presidente
Juscelino Kubitschek 135,
Tel (31) 3731 7394.
∑ cidadeshistoricas.art.br/
congonhas
Open 7am–6pm Mon–Fri,
8am–5pm Sat & Sun.
5 9am–1pm Sun.
_ Jubileu do Senhor Bom
Jesus do Matosinhos (Sep).
Façade of the church inspired by and modeled on the Santuário do Bom Jesus in Braga, Transport
@ Basílica from Av Júlia
Portugal, with the prophets at the entrance
Kubitschek 1892.
Aleijadinho
Aleijadinho (1738–1815)
meaning “Little Cripple,” was
nicknamed due to the
disfigurement he suffered from
leprosy. When he carved the
statues at Bom Jesus de
Matosinhos, he could no longer
. The Capture of Christ walk and had completely lost
Jesus is captured by Herod’s soldiers, led to the use of his hands. His
him by his disciple, Judas Iscariot, in the students carried him up the
Garden of Gethsemane. hill each day and strapped
hammers and chisels to his
arms. The figure watching the
Crucifixion and hiding his
hands is reputed to be a self-
portrait by Aleijadinho. The
statues are, without doubt, his
masterpieces, and his final
works of art.
Statue of Aleijadinho (standing, right)

witnessing the Crucifixion
The Angel
The figure of an angel . The Last Supper
carrying a cup filled with Faith The figures are so life-like that when they
for Christ is in the chapel of the were completed, some pilgrims are said to
Mount of Olives. have greeted them as if they were real people.
A highlight of Tiradentes is
the magnificent blue soapstone
public fountain dating from
the 18th century, the Chafariz
de São José, just across from
Rua da Camara. It features an
oratory with an image of São
Jose de Botas and three faces
representing love, good
fortune, and health. The water
comes from a spring in the
São José hills overlooking
the town, an area that offers
excellent hiking.
Colonial Portuguese houses lining the cobbled streets of Tiradentes E Centro Cultural Yves Alves
Rua Direita 168. Tel (32) 3355 1503.
7 Tiradentes smaller streets cross the two. R Matriz de Santo Antônio
* 6,000. @ n Largo dos Forros,
The most important of these is Rua da Camara. Open 9am–4:40pm
Rua Resende Costa 71, (32) 3355 1212. Rua da Câmara, whose steep daily. & ^ 8 Dec–Mar: 8pm Fri &
_ Festival de Cinema (Jan), Carnaval cobbles rise to the town’s most Sun, 8:30pm Sat (sound & light show),
Mardi Gras (Feb/Mar). imposing church, the Matriz call (32) 3355 1238 to book.
de Santo Antônio, built
Like Ouro Preto and Mariana, between 1710 and 1752. This
Tiradentes became rich on is one of the finest Baroque
gold, producing some of churches in Brazil, with won-
the most lavish Baroque derful wood carvings and gilt
church interiors and façades interiors. Parts of the façade are
in all of Brazil. The town takes attributed to the architect and
its name from the nickname sculptor Aleijadinho (see p135).
“Tiradentes” (Tooth-puller) There are various other small
of José da Silva Xavier (1746– churches scattered throughout
92), an erstwhile resident the town and these are all
who became a martyr of worth a visit. The best of these
the Inconfidência Mineria, churches is Igreja Nossa
the first movement in Senhora do Rosário dos
Brazil towards independence Prestos, on Rua Direita, which
from Portugal. features some elegant statues
Tiradentes is a delightful and painted panels.
colonial town. Its multicolored Also on Rua Direita is a Chafariz de São José, an 18th-century
Portuguese cottages and cultural center, Centro fountain in Tiradentes
miniature Baroque churches Cultural Yves Alves, which
flank the cobbled roads on the hosts concerts, theatrical 8 São João del Rei
steep, low São José hills around performances, films, and * 79,000. £ Maria Fumaça (only
the Rio Santo Antônio. There is art exhibitions. between São João del Rei &
a craft shop, an arty little café, Tiradentes), Fri–Sun & public hols,
or a gourmet restaurant on (32) 3371 8485. @ from Tiradentes.
every other corner. Pretty n Rua Padre José Maria, Praça Frei
horse-drawn carriages gather Orlando, (32) 3372 7338.
in Largo das Forras, the town’s _ Carnaval Mardi Gras (Feb),
main plaza, and a narrow Semana de Inconfidência (Apr).
gauge steam train, Maria ∑ saojoaodelreisite.com.br
Fumaça (see p424), with
wooden Pullman coaches, The largest of the historic
puffs and heaves its way to towns of Minas Gerais, São
and from neighboring São João del Rei did not suffer
João del Rei on weekends from the decline of the gold
and public holidays. boom in the 1800s. Today, it
The center of Tiradentes is tiny remains a bustling town, less
and best seen on foot. Rua da than 19 miles (30 km) from
Praia runs west from Largo das Tiradentes, and boasts some
Forras following the course of beautiful churches, old
the Rio das Mortes. Rua Direita Gilt altar and interior of Matriz de Santo mansions, and an attractive
runs parallel to it and a series of Antônio, Tiradentes colonial center.
MINAS GERAIS 137
Philadelphia-built, narrow gauge

steam train. It sits alongside the
Pullman carriages used by
Emperor Dom Pedro II when he
traveled to Minas Gerais from
Rio by train in the 19th century.
R Igreja de São Francisco de

Assis
Praça Frei Orlando.
7am–4pm Sun. ^
E Museu Ferroviário Giant anteater in the Parque Nacional Serra
Estacão Ferroviária, Av Hermílio Alves da Canastra
366. Tel (32) 3371 8485. Open
Façade, Igreja de São Francisco de Assis, 8–11am, 1–4pm Wed–Sat, 9am–2pm terrain. Bare granite peaks rise to
São João del Rei Sun. & almost 4,920 ft (1,500 m). Sparse
E Museu Regional de São João cerrado forest sprinkled with
The principal reason for visiting del Rei boulders gathers at their feet.
São João is to see the Igreja de Rua Marechal Deodoro 12. Tel (32) Around the numerous waterfalls
São Francisco de Assis, whose 3371 7663. Open 12:30–5:30pm and along the wild rivers are
unusual curved façade, turtle- Tue–Sun. & stretches of lush, gallery forest.
back roof and intricately carved The most famed of the falls is
medal overlook a square lined the Cachoeira d’Anta. Here the
with towering palms. The square 9 Parque Nacional river’s ice-cold waters form a
is in the shape of a lyre and at Serra da Canastra series of pools before plunging
sundown the shadows of the @ from Belo Horizonte. n IBAMA, 186 m (610 ft) off an
palms form the instrument’s Av Mal Floriano Peixoto 465, São escarpment. The park’s most
strings. Together with the Roque de Minas, (37) 3433 1195. famous trail, the Trilha Casca
Santuário do Bom Jesus do Open 8am–6pm daily. & d’Anta, begins in front of
Monte Sítio in Braga, Portugal, the water fall and offers a
and the church of São Francisco The extensive Parque Nacional spectacular view out over the
in Ouro Preto (see p130–32), this Serra da Canastra, tucked away park to the denuded pasture
church is one of the jewels in the in the far southwest of Minas land beyond.
crown of Baroque architecture. Gerais, protects the head waters There is plenty of wildlife in
The town has a handful of of one of South America’s the Serra da Canastra, though
other interesting sights. The largest rivers – the Rio São it can be hard to see. Maned
Museu Regional de São João Francisco. This great waterway wolves and giant anteaters are
del Rei, a colonial mansion, is flows 1,963 miles (3,160 km) relatively common here, as are
full of antique furniture and through the rippling hills of the pig-sized giant armadillos.
sacred art and is one of the Minas, and the bone-dry deserts The park is especially rich in
best in Minas Gerais. The Museu of the northeastern interior. But birdlife, and is one of the few
Ferroviário, at the Maria Fumaça in the Serra da Canastra it is little places in the world where it is
railway station, is a tiny loco- more than a large mountain possible to see the endangered
motive museum housing an old, stream cutting through rugged Brazilian Merganser duck.
Granite peaks looming over the cerrado and pasture land beyond, Parque Nacional Serra da Canastra
SÃO PAULO CITY

Bristling concrete towers extend interminably over São Paulo,
an expansive, vibrant city located on a high plateau. The
impressive number of immigrants settled in its many districts
makes it one of the world’s largest metropolises. Its immense
cultural diversity has blessed it with the liveliest and most creative
artistic, musical, and gastronomic scene in the country.
São Paulo was founded in 1554 by a wave of public support went on to

Manuel da Nóbrega and José de become Brazil’s president in 2002, and
Anchieta, and established as a Jesuit again in 2006. Regional festivals from
missionary outpost. The 17th century saw all over the country are celebrated with
the town become the headquarters for great enthusiasm in the city’s enormous
bandeirantes, or slave-trading pioneers. favelas (shantytowns).
São Paulo became a major stopover point São Paulo’s vastness and complex
for explorers and pioneers, lured by the character can be intimidating to an
prospect of gold mines and slave trading outsider. The greatest pleasures of this
in the interiors. The expansion of the magnificent city are to be found behind
sugar and coffee industries in the late closed doors – in museums, galleries,
18th and 19th centuries attracted concert halls, and in a wealth of restaurants
immigrants from the Middle East, Spanish and shops. A true haven for gourmets,
America, the Russian republics, Central São Paulo is known to serve the best food
Asia, Europe – including Spain and in South America. The city center offers
Portugal – and Japan. a host of attractions, such as the 17th-
Internal migrants from every corner century Igreja de São Francisco and the
of the nation came to São Paulo in the 20th-century Mosteiro São Bento. The city’s
mid-20th century. Among them was an finest museum, Museu de Arte de São
impoverished metal-worker from Paulo (MASP), is one of the highlights of
Pernambuco, Luíz Inácio da Silva, who by the famed Avenida Paulista.
Carnaval dancers participate in the final night of the São Paulo parade
View from the top of Banespa Tower, including the Palace of Justice and Metropolitan Cathedral of São Paulo
Exploring São Paulo City
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Getting Around
São Paulo is well connected, with daily international flights to
most major European, and North and South American cities.
Most of these depart from Cumbica airport in Guarulhos, 19
miles (30 km) northeast of the city. Domestic flights leave from
Congonhas Airport, just south of Ibirapuera Park in the main
urban center. There are buses to every corner of Brazil and
beyond to Bolivia, Argentina, Paraguay, and Uruguay. There is an
extensive network of taxis and buses within the city. The metro
and urban railway are clean, fast, and efficient. Cars can be rented
at both the airports, although the city’s numerous one-way
systems and choking traffic make driving a little daunting.
1 Catedral daub shack, built for them by

Metropolitana their Guaraní cohorts, eventually
became a school. That school
Praça da Sé, Centro. Map 1 C3. became a church, and around
Tel (11) 3107 6832. q Sé. the church arose the buildings
Open 8am–1pm, 3–5pm daily.
that formed the core of the
Closed last Sun of each month. 8
5 8:30am, 2pm, 6pm Mon, noon
original city of São Paulo.
Tue–Sat, 9am, 11am, 5pm Sun.
In 1760, the Jesuits were
expelled from the city, but
At the heart of old downtown the college and chapel
São Paulo, the Catedral they founded remained and
Metropolitana (also known as came to be known as the
Catedral da Sé) watches over Pátio do Colégio. In 1886, the
the large pebbled Praça da Sé, tower of the original church
shaded by tropical fig and palm collapsed and the whole
trees. Built between 1912 and building was demolished.
1954, the cathedral finally Upon their return in 1954, the
gained its full complement of Carved altar in the interior of Igreja de São Jesuits immediately set about
14 turrets in 2002. Francisco de Assis building an exact replica of their
Built by Maximiliano Hell, original church and college,
the exterior is a fusion of Neo- 2 Igreja de São which is what stands today as
Gothic and Renaissance, with an Francisco de Assis Pátio do Colégio.
overly narrow nave squeezed Most of the buildings are
between two enormous Largo de São Francisco 133. occupied by the Museu Padre
318-ft- (97-m-) high spires and Map 1 A3. Tel (11) 3291 2400. q Sé. Anchieta, named after the
Open 7am–7pm Tue–Sat, 7am–noon,
a bulbous copper cupola. The Jesuit captain who led the first
5:30–7pm Sun. ^
cavernous interior, said to seat mission. The collection features
up to 8,000 people, looks starkly Immediately to the west of a Modernist portrait of the
European. The only obvious Catedral Metropolitana is priest, by the Italian artist
local influences are visible in the the Igreja de São Francisco de Menghini, some of the priest’s
capitals, delicately carved with Assis, one of the city’s remains, a 17th-
distinctly Brazilian flora and oldest churches. Parts century font used to
fauna. The stained-glass of the modest Baroque baptize indigenous
windows were designed in interior, featuring an people, as well as a
Germany and Brazil. intricately carved altar collection of Guaraní
The cathedral’s façade has and ornaments, date artifacts from the
watched over the country’s from the mid-1600s. colonial era. A model
largest public protests, when The church is often reproduction
crowds gathered in the square referred to as O of São Paulo in the
outside the cathedral in the late Convento São Visão de Anchieta by 16th century is also
1980s to demand the end of Francisco after the Menghini on display.
military rule. exquisite Baroque
convent that stood here until
the 1930s, when it was demol- 4 Mosteiro São
ished along with parts of the Bento
colonial center.
Largo de São Bento. Map 1 C2.
Tel (11) 3328 8799. q São Bento.
Open 7am–6pm Mon–Fri, 7am–noon
3 Pátio do Colégio Sat & Sun. 5 7am, 1pm & 6pm Mon–
Praça Pátio do Colégio 2. Map 2 D3. Fri, 6am, 7am Sat, 8:30am, 10am &
q Sé. Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. 6:30pm (masses in Latin) Sun.
5 noon Tue–Fri, 10am–noon Sun. ∑ mosteiro.org.br
Museu Padre Anchieta: Tel (11) 3105
6899. & ^ Brazil is the only South
American country where the
Located within easy walking Benedictine order gained a
distance from the Praça da Sé, foothold, arriving in São Paulo
the Pátio do Colégio has an on this site in 1598. The current
interesting history behind it. building, however, dates from
On January 25, 1554, the Jesuits the 1920s and was designed
inaugurated the Colégio de São by Munich-based architect
Paulo de Piratinga on a small Richard Bernl.
Exterior of São Paulo Catedral bluff overlooking an extensive The monastery has a
Metropolitana, Praça da Sé forest. The original wattle-and- beautifully painted Beuronese
interior. This style is named

after techniques developed in
the late 19th and early 20th
centuries by Benedictines in
the monastery of Beuron in
southwest Germany. It is
characterized by a compressed
perspective and vivid colors.
The finest representation of
Beuronese art in Latin America
is visible inside this beautiful
Blessed Sacrament chapel.
Scenes from the life of St.
Benedict are depicted on the View of the exterior of Theatro Municipal
stained-glass windows and the
ceiling. The church has a large and the city waited in fevered 8 Edifício Itália
organ, which is the centerpiece anticipation for its inaugural Av Ipiranga 344. Map 1 B2 & B3.
of a festival held in November night. It opened on September Tel (11) 3257 3953. Open 8am–10pm
and December every year. There 12, 1911, with a production of daily. q República.
is also a shop selling sweets and Hamlet, starring the Italian
cakes made by the monks. baritone Titta Ruffo. Nijinski, The Edifíco Itália, one of
Caruso, and Toscanini have all São Paulo’s tallest buildings,
performed here. was built in 1965 to honor
the thousands of Italian immi-
grants to the city. The famous
6 Igreja da postcard shot of Oscar
Consolação Niemeyer’s Edífico Copan with
Rua da Consolação 585. Map 1 C3.
the vast environs of São Paulo
Tel (11) 3256 5356. q Anhangabaú. behind was taken from the
Open 7am–8pm. ^ Terraço Itália restaurant (see
p389) and viewing deck on
Designed by Maximiliano Hell, the 45th floor of the building.
the architect of the Catedral People do not usually come
Metropolitana, the Igreja da for the food – most come for
Consolação is a similar fusion the unbeatable view of this
of European styles. Some of the incredible city, a view that is
19th-century master Benedito second only to that from the
Calixto’s (see p34) best religious Edifício Banespa.
paintings adorn the Blessed
Sacrament chapel.
The 1920s interior of Mosteiro São Bento, 9 Edifício Banespa
with its painted ceiling
7 Centro Cultural Rua João Bricola 24. Map 1 C3.
Tel (11) 3249 7466. q São Bento.
Banco do Brasil Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri.
5 Theatro
Rua Álvares Penteado 112. Map 1 C3.
Municipal Tel (11) 3113 3649. q São Bento/ The best panoramic view of São
Anhangabaú. Open 10am–9pm Tue– Paulo is from the observation
Praça Ramos de Azevedo.
Map 1 C2. Tel (11) 3397 0300. Sat, 10am–8pm Sun.^ ∑ bb.com. deck on the 36th floor of the
q Anhangabaú. ^ br/cultura Edifício Banespa – a miniature
version of New York’s Empire
Located near the Parque This early 20th-century building State Building. Built in 1939,
Anhangabaú, São Paulo’s with a lovely Art Deco glass the building was inaugurated
largest central park with some ceiling was once the Bank of in 1947.
pretty fountains, the Theatro Brazil. It now houses the Centro Every morning, a helicopter
Municipal overlooks the Praça Cultural Banco do Brasil. Inside, hovers through the thick smog
Ramos. The theater is one of there are a series of spaces to report on traffic conditions
the continent’s most important devoted to showing from here. Blocks of high-rise
venues, hosting a busy contemporary arts – from concrete towers crowd together
program of events. Opera and photography, installation works, as far as the eye can see, but the
theater were very popular and fine art to cinema and wonder of São Paulo is captured
among the elite in turn-of-the- theater. The exhibition spaces around late afternoon, when
19th-century São Paulo and Rio are contained within the bank’s the lights start coming on in all
de Janeiro. The theater was original vaults, some of which the high-rises and the city takes
modeled on the Paris Opera retain their massive iron doors. on a different life.
0 Pinacoteca do Estado
The Pinacoteca is a significant repository of Brazilian art,
with an archive of over 5,000 paintings and sculptures
representing all major Brazilian artists and artistic
movements. The galleries trace the evolution of Brazilian
styles, which began as mock-European naturalism and
gradually diversified into social realist, naive, and abstract
forms. In the mid-1990s, the Pinacoteca was magnificently . Composição
renovated by the noted architect Paulo Mendes de Rocha, This Brazilian Constructivist
who filled the original Neo-Classical building with carefully composition by Alfredo Volpi (1896–
positioned partitions and capped it with a translucent 1988) fuses European style with
tropical colors.
roof. The magical sense of space and light perfectly
complements the intensity of color and tone which
characterizes Brazilian art.
Serie Bahia Musa da Paz

Belonging to an infuential
group of Paulista artists,
José Pancetti (1902–58)
rejected a European
academic approach to
art and strove to return
to a more naive style.
Entrance
Octagonal
Exhibition Hall
Façade The photography

The Pinacoteca was tastefully refurbished exhibition features
in the 1990s, leaving only the shell of the Brazil’s celebrated
original building. social documentary
photographers.
Auditorium
Gallery Guide
The Pinacoteca’s permanent collection is on the third floor, with galleries First floor
housing the Modernist collection, just above the main entrance. Brazilian
19th-century paintings and the more recent works flank this gallery, while
sculptures by French artists, such as Aristide Maillol, occupy a prominent
display. The second floor is devoted to temporary exhibitions and the first
floor has the photography exhibition and also a bookshop and a café.
. Tropical VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Portraying a caboclo
woman in a tropical Practical Information
setting, this painting Praça da Luz 2, Jardim da Luz.
by Anita Malfatti Map 1 C1.
(1889–1964) is a fine Tel (11) 3324 1007.
example of Brazilian Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
Modernism. 7-
∑ pinacoteca.org.br
Transport
q Luz. @
Third floor
Formal
portraits of
Portuguese
colonial dig-
nitaries are the
most European
of the Brazilian
paintings.
. Caipira Picando Fumo

Almeida Júnior (1850–99)
was one of the first to paint
Brazil’s rich tropical light and
everyday Brazilians.
Génio do Repouso
Eterno
This statue is regarded
by many to be one of
the most beautiful
works of legendary
French sculptor,
Auguste Rodin
Second floor (1840–1917).
Pintura (1969)
Brazilian artist Tomie Ohtake (1913–
2015), mother of the famous
architect Ruy Ohtake, introduced
Japanese elements into Brazilian art.
Key
Brazilian Painting Brazilian Sculpture
Landscapes (1850–1930) Art by European Visitors
French Sculpture Yard Temporary Exhibition Gallery
Second floor, with a temporary Brazilian Contemporary Art Photography Exhibition
exhibition area Brazilian Constructivism Non-Exhibition Space
e Estação
Pinacoteca
Largo General Osório 66. Map 1 C1.
Tel (11) 3335 4990. q Luz. @
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& free admission on Sat.
Located in an attractive early

20th-century Neo-Classical
building, the annex of the
Pinacoteca do Estado
(see pp144–5) is one of the
Elegant façade of the Mosteiro da Luz, housing the Museu Arte Sacra city’s best contemporary
exhibition spaces. Some of
q Museu Arte Sacra 18th-century masters such as Brazil’s finest Modernist
Av Tiradentes 676. Tel (11) 3326
Benedito Calixto and Mestre paintings, taken from the
1373. q Tiradentes. @ Athayde. archive of the Fundação
Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sun. & Of special significance is José e Paulina Nemirovsky,
the one that depicts Padre are displayed here.
Often overlooked by visitors, Anchieta taming a wild ocelot An important milestone
this small museum boasts with the cross, a symbol of in Brazilian Modernism is
one of the finest collections the Jesuit founder of São Antropofagia by Tarsila do
of religious artifacts in the Paulo’s mission to the indig- Amaral (1886–1973), the
Americas. The exhibits are enous Brazilians. founder of the vital
housed in a large wing of antropofagismo movement
a distinguished colonial (see pp34–5). There are also
building, the early 19th-century w Estação da Luz key pieces by Candido
Mosteiro da Luz. Restful and Praça da Luz 1. Map 1 C1. Tel (0800)
Portinari, Anita Malfatti,
serene, the entire complex is 550 121. q Luz. @ and Lasar Segall. International
a peaceful haven from the art is represented by Marc
frenetic chaos of São Paulo. One of modern Brazil’s Chagall, Pablo Picasso, and
The museum’s priceless prominent symbols of industrial Georges Braque, among others.
objects and artifacts include progress, São Paulo’s railway
lavish monstrances (ceremonial station was built in 1901. The
vessels), ecclesiastical jewelry, design of the Estação da Luz is a r Sala São Paulo
and church altarpieces. Of homage to the English railroad, Praça Júlio Prestes 16. Map 1 B1.
particular note is the statuary, and imitates the Victorian Tel (11) 3367 9500. q Luz. @
with pieces by many of the eclectic style. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri. 8 by
most important Brazilian Just like all of São Paulo’s appointment a day in advance,
Baroque masters such as railways, Estação da Luz was 1–4:30pm Mon–Fri, 2pm Sat. ^
Aleijadinho, Mestre Valentim, the creation of Brazil’s first ∑ salasaopaulo.art.br
and Frei Agostinho da Piedade. industrialist, the Visconde de
One of the gems is the Mauá. After a visit to London Known for the finest acoustics
18th-century Mary Magdalene in the 1840s, Mauá was in Latin America, this concert
by Francisco Xavier de Brito, convinced that Brazil’s future hall was inaugurated in 1997.
which displays an effortless lay in rapid industrialization. It is the city’s premier classical
unity of motion and melancholy He founded an ironworks, music venue for symphonic and
contemplation. Among the employing some 300 workers chamber music and the home
sculptures, mostly by anon- from England and Scotland. of Brazil’s top orchestra, the
ymous Brazilian indigenous In 1854, Mauá opened his first Orquestra Sinfônica do Estado
artists, two pieces railway, which was designed de São Paulo (OSESP).
stand out – a majestic and run by the British. The orchestra’s artistic
African-Brazilian São It linked Jundiaí, in the director Arthur Nestrovski
Bento (with blue eyes) heart of São Paulo’s coffee is a composer and classical
and an exquisitely region, with Santos on guitarist specializing in
detailed 18th-century the coast. Today, the Brazilian music.
Neapolitan nativity Estação da Luz serves only The grand railway building,
crib comprising the São Paulo city area. the Estação Júlio Prestes, in
around 2,000 pieces, Romanesque red-brick which the hall is housed, was
which is the most arches and stately cast- designed in 1938 by Brazilian
important of its iron pillars support a architect Cristiano Stockler.
kind outside Naples. single vault that Largely inspired by New York,
The collection also São Bento with baby, covers four tracks it contrasts strongly with the
features works by Museu Arte Sacra and platforms. English Estação da Luz.
t Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
One of Brazil’s finest museums, MASP preserves a vast collection Practical Information
of European old masters and early Modernist paintings. Pietro Av Paulista 1578. Map 4 F2.
Tel (11) 3251 5644.
Maria Bardi, a Brazilian of Italian origin, scouted around Europe Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun.
between 1947 and 1953. He bought the now priceless works of & free admission on Tue. 8 0
Degas, van Gogh, Velázquez, Rembrandt, Turner, Titian, Bellini, Transport
and Raphael at absurdly low prices. By the 1960s, the works had q Trianon–Masp.
become so important that Bardi persuaded the São Paulo
authorities to build a gallery to house them.
The extensive collection is constantly rotating, as paintings
are taken in and out of the archive. The works are loosely
grouped by country.
covering the 150 years of

Venetian Renaissance and
Baroque painting, from Bellini
to Saraceni. A Titian and a
Tintoretto are prominently
featured, besides Bellini’s
beautiful Madonna and Child.
The Schoolboy by van Gogh (1888),
Northern European Collection
French Art and
Parisian School
With more than 300 paintings, Art from the Iberian
from the 18th to early 20th Peninsula and
century, France dominates Northern Europe
the museum. The collection The rest of Europe is
Resurrection of Christ (1501/1502) by has a wonderful chronological represented as a chronological
Raphael, Italian collection consistency. A few notable mishmash of glorious paintings.
exceptions apart, including Of particular note are very fine
David, Millet, Seurat, and Spanish pieces by Velázquez,
Italian Art Braque, all the major artists El Greco, and a magnificent
Of the museum’s three dozen are represented. Also show- series of etchings and portraits
pre-19th-century Italian cased here are those who by Goya, the best of which is
paintings, 17 date from the early drew influence from late that of Cardinal Luís María de
Renaissance, prior to 1510. 19th- to early 20th-century Borbón y Vallabriga (1800).
These include a series of Paris, such as Van Gogh, Central Europe has some fine
iconogaphic religious works Chagall, and Picasso. Many works by Bosch, Holbein,
from Florence and Modena, a of the works are among the Memling, Rembrandt, Rubens,
particularly haunting painting of artists’ greatest masterpieces, and Franz Hals. There are also
a penitent St. Jerome in the especially those by Manet and a few paintings by Frans Post,
desert by Andrea Mantegna, Cézanne. Another gem is depicting Dutch colonial
and Resurrection of Christ by Toulouse-Lautrec’s Paul Viaud Pernambuco. England is
Raphael. There are also 10 Dressed as an 18th-century represented by a group
paintings of impeccable quality, Admiral (1901). of respectable works by
Constable, Gainsborough,
Joshua Reynolds, and Turner.
Brazilian Art
Though not as vast as Rio
de Janeiro’s Museu Nacional
de Belas Artes (see p78), or
the Pinacoteca do Estado
(see pp144–5), MASP contains
works by Almeida Júnior,
Brecheret, Di Cavalcanti,
Tomie Ohtake, and Candido
The room displaying works from MASP’s French collection Portinari, among others.
demolition after There are plenty of cinemas in

World War II, the and around Paulista, along the
avenue had lost its avenue itself, in the Shopping
splendid character Paulista Mall, near Brigadeiro
by the 1960s. Today, metro, and dotted along Rua da
only one mansion Consolação, near Paulista’s
remains, the French- northern end.
style Casa das Rosas, Together with the Praça da
which is now a Sé (see p142), Paulista is one of
cultural center the city’s most important venues
managed and run for protests and celebrations.
by São Paulo state. For a taste of Avenida Paulista
Interesting art shows as it once was, head a few
are occasionally held blocks south, across the chic
here, but the 1935 shopping streets of the Jardins
mansion itself is and into Jardim Europa. Here,
well worth visiting along Avenida Brasil and
for its pretty rose Avenida Groenlandia, the stately
garden and Art homes of the city’s current rich
Nouveau stained- can be seen.
glass window.
There are a few P Casa das Rosas
other sights of Av Paulista 37. Tel (11) 3285 6986.
Aerial view of the exclusive Avenida Paulista interest along the Open 10am–10pm Tue–Sat,
street. The Instituto 10am–6pm Sun & public hols.
y Avenida Paulista Itaú Cultural, near Brigadeiro
E Centro Cultural FIESP
metro station, hosts a range of
Map 4 E2, F2 & F3. q Brigadeiro/ Av Paulista 1313. Tel (11) 3146 7406.
Trianon-Masp/Consolação. _ Gay concerts and exhibitions, all of
which are free of charge. It also E Instituto Itaú Cultural
Pride (Jun).
houses the largest currency Av Paulista 149. Tel (11) 2168 1777.
Modern São Paulo’s first symbol museum in the country, the Itaú Open 9am–8pm Tue–Fri, 11am–8pm
of prosperity, Avenida Paulista Numismática. The Centro Sat & Sun. ^
and its crowded skyscrapers Cultural FIESP, at Trianon-Masp, Y Parque Trianon
continue to attest to Brazil’s is a business headquarters with Rua Peixoto Gomide 949.
status as South America’s major a small Centro Cultural that Open 6am–6pm daily.
economic power. Though often presents free live theater and
compared to New York’s Fifth hosts occasional art shows.
Avenue, it is actually a Immediately to its north and u Museu do
corporate valley, business-like opposite MASP is the Parque Futebol
and functional. Trianon, the only green respite Estádio do Pacaembu, Praça
In the 19th century, when a from the concrete. It was named Charles Miller s/n. q Paulista.
Uruguayan named Joaquin in homage to the gardens of Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun (hours
Eugenio de Lima first set up the Palace of Versailles, to which may change on match days).
house here, Paulista was a hill it bears no resemblance. ∑ museudofutebol.org.br
on the outskirts of a small However, in the quiet of the
colonial town surrounded by early morning, small mammals, The Museum of Football is
pastoral land and forest. including agouti and marmo- not to be missed by any fan
Around this time, São Paulo sets, can be seen foraging here, of “the beautiful game.”
was growing rich on trains and in the heat of the day, the Explore the history of soccer
and coffee. Others followed trees provide welcome shade. in Brazil and its impact on both
de Lima and began to build
large houses here.
By the turn of the 19th
century, the avenue had
become São Paulo’s most
desirable address, and was lined
with large, opulent mansions
owned by extremely wealthy
Brazilian moguls, or the coffee
barons. Each mansion reflected
the architectural predilections
of the owner, be it Neo-Classical,
Rhineland, or even mock-Tudor.
Having suffered large-scale Parque Trianon, with its lush greenery, on Avenida Paulista
local society and the global

community. The focus here is
as much on Brazilian people as
it is on the sport itself, allowing
visitors to get a sense of how
habits and behaviors changed
in this country throughout the
20th century.
The temporary exhibits at the
museum are complemented
by a 16-stage “fan path,” which
visitors may walk through. Each
room along the route offers a
mixture of some of the history
and excitement of soccer.
Shrine Gate at Oriental Quarter Japanese Town, Liberdade
i Liberdade community, their origins, and roof. Visitors are welcome to

Praça da Sé, via Av da Liberdade.
their lives in early 20th-century attend the various ceremonies,
q Praça de Sé/Liberdade. Brazil. These include a replica of the most impressive of which
@ Liberdade Rodoviária. the Kasato-Maru – the ship is the Cerimônia de Kannon,
which brought the first immi- which takes place each month.
São Paulo is home to more grants in 1908 (see p173) and The rituals, paying homage to
ethnic Japanese people than a complete early Japanese- the Buddha’s compassionate
any other city outside Japan. Brazilian agricultural cottage. nature, are accompanied by
Liberdade, located just south of The building also features a traditional Japanese instruments.
the city center, is the hub of the lovely rooftop garden.
Japanese community. The One of São Paulo’s many E Museu da Imigração
neighborhood, small and easily Buddhist temples, built in 1995, Japonesa
manageable on foot, is best the Templo Busshinji lies west Rua São Joaquim 381. Tel (11) 3209
explored during the afternoon. of the Museu da Imigração 5465. Open 1:30–5:30pm Tue–Sun. &
Streets are lined with shops and Japonesa on the same street.  Templo Busshinji
restaurants selling everything, Its traditional Japanese-style Rua São Joaquim 285. Tel (11) 3208
from woks and manga comics architecture comprising wood is 4515. Open 9am–5pm daily. 8 by
to sushi and sashimi. On topped with a pyramid-shaped prior appointment. &
Sundays, there is a lively market
in the Praça de Liberdade,
where stalls serve up steaming São Paulo Fashion Week
lacquer bowls of miso soup Established in 1996, São Paulo’s fashion week is Latin America’s
and yakisoba noodles. most important fashion event. All of the top Brazilian names and
Liberdade’s main thorough- faces, including Amir Slama and Havaianas, are showcased here,
fare, Rua Galvão Bueno, runs together with supermodels from around the world. The fashion
south from this square, lined fraternity can be seen in hip bars and boutiques in the wealthy
with the bulk of the shops and corners of the city. Over 100,000 people visit the show itself,
decorated with red Japanese which takes place twice a year – usually in January and March or
arches, or torii. Many of April – in Oscar Niemeyer’s Bienal building in Parque do Ibirapuera
Liberdade’s most traditional (see pp150–51). More column inches are devoted to the event
than to any other activity in Brazil, except for soccer and political
Japanese restaurants are
scandals. The event generates an estimated $45 million through
located on, and around, the media alone, with more than 2,500 newspaper and magazine
Rua Tomaz Gonzaga, which pages and almost 200 hours of television coverage.
cuts across Galvão Bueno,
south of the square.
At the corner of Galvão
Bueno and Rua São Joaquim,
an undistinguished block
houses the Museu da
Imigração Japonesa (Japanese
Immigration Museum). The
museum was opened in 1978
by the erstwhile prince, now
Emperor Akihito of Japan. It
has two floors of artifacts and
displays devoted to telling the A fashion show in full swing, with models displaying a collection
story of the Japanese immigrant
o Parque do Ibirapuera
Parque do Ibirapuera is the largest green space in central
São Paulo, and its native Brazilian woodlands and lakes are
a welcome respite from the city’s urban sprawl. Opened in
1954, it houses several museums and exhibition spaces, as
well as a complex of buildings by the country’s celebrated
architect, Oscar Niemeyer (1907–2012). These stage major
exhibitions such as the Terracotta Warrior exhibition from
China and the Rodin retrospective.
Monumento às Bandeiras
. Hotel Unique Completed in 1950, this tribute to
Hotel Unique (see p373), explorers or bandeirantes, who
the intriguing, half- opened up Brazil’s interior, is one
melon structure on stilts, of the more severe works by Brazil’s
is the most famous work foremost sculptor, Victor Brecheret.
of Brazil’s leading
contemporary architect,
Ruy Ohtake, son of the
artist Tomie Ohtake.
KEY
1 The Bosque da Leitura or

“reading wood” is the place to head
for on Sundays. Visitors can borrow
a book and read in the shade of
the trees.
2 The small vivarium houses a few
species of native subtropical trees.
3 The restored, state-of-the-art
planetarium is one of the most
impressive in Latin America and is
very popular with children. All shows
are in Portuguese.
4 A son et lumière fountain show
is held here on weekends.
5 The Monumento do Pedro
Álvares Cabral honors the
Portuguese explorer who first set
foot on Brazilian soil in 1500.
6 Museu Afro Brasil is devoted
to celebrating Afro-Brazilian culture.
It hosts films, exhibitions, dance, Pavilhão Japonês
music, and theater events. This pavilion and its
gardens were built in
7 Auditório Ibirapuera
strict accordance with
8 The Bienal Building, also by traditional Japanese
Niemeyer, stages the city’s flagship design, using only
fashion, art, and other premier Japanese materials.
events – São Paulo fashion week There is also an
and the Art Bienal, among others. exhibition space and a
Japanese tearoom.
Av Pedro Álvares Cabral.
Map 4 E5.
Open 5am–midnight daily.
Museu de Arte Moderna, Gate 3:
Tel (11) 5085 1300. Open 10am–
6pm Tue–Sun. & free on Sun.
Museu Afro Brasil, Gate 10:
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Bosque da Leitura, Gate 7: Av
República do Líbano 1551.
Open 9:30am–4pm Sun.
The lush expanse of Lago do Ibirapuera (Ibirapuera Lake) in the park
. O Obelisco aos
Heroís de 32
0 meters 300 This giant Cleopatra’s
needle was built to
0 yards 300
honor the Paulistano
rebels who died in 1932
when President Vargas
crushed resistance to his
Estado Novo regime
(see p59).
Oca do Ibirapuera
Designed by Oscar Niemeyer,
this dome pays homage to the
indigenous Brazilian
roundhouse. It hosts major
international art exhibitions and
cultural events.
. Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM)

The best of Brazilian contemporary art is showcased
here. This work, Cristo de Rapadura by Caetano Dias, is a
sculpture of Christ made from raw cane sugar. The idea
is that it will gradually be consumed by visitors, thus
symbolizing the lives of African slaves who died
working in Brazil’s sugar industry.
Façade of the imposing Museu Paulista do Ipiranga in the Parque de Independência, Ipiranga
p Museu Paulista tomb contains the remains some 8,000 works of art.
do Ipiranga of Dom Pedro I and Empress Prominent among these are
Leopoldina. Also in the grounds important, little-seen European
Parque da Independência s/n, is the Casa do Grito, a replica works by Amadeo Modigliani,
Ipiranga. Tel (11) 2065 8000. @ of the simple adobe house Pablo Picasso, Max Ernst,
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & ^
depicted by Pedro Américo and Henri Matisse, which
∑ mp.usp.br
in his painting. sit alongside the cream of
In 1822, Dom Pedro I declared Brazil’s artists. Brazilian
the famous “Grito de Ipiranga,” Modernists, such as Anita
or call for independence from a Museu de Arte Malfatti, Vitor Brecheret,
Portugal (Independência ou Contemporânea and Candido Portanari, are
Morte, or Independence or Rua da Reitora 160, Cidade
well represented. MAC also
Death), on the banks of the Universitária. Tel (11) 3091 3039. @ holds three of the most
Rio Ipiranga (see p56). This large Open 10am–6pm Wed, Fri–Sun & celebrated works by Tarsila
palace, built in 1890, was one public hols, 10am–8pm Tue & Thu. 8 do Amaral – A Negra, Estrada
of the earliest monuments by appointment. 7 ^ de Ferro Central do Brasil, and
of independent Brazil. ∑ macvirtual.usp.br/mac A Floresta. Tarsila was the
The Museu Paulista is founder of antropofagismo
housed in the palace at the A treasure trove of modern (see pp34–5) – a movement
top of extensive formal and Post-Modern European and that paved the way for many
gardens in the Parque da Brazilian art lies tucked away important artistic trends within
Independência. The museum in the campus of São Paulo’s postwar Brazil.
is devoted to the nation’s most distinguished university.
history, containing a collection The collection at the Museu
of exhibits which includes de Arte Contemporânea s Instituto Butantã
old maps, traditional colonial (MAC) is an amalgamation Av Vital Brazil 1500, Cidade
furniture, carriages, rare of donations given by wealthy Universitária. Tel (11) 3726 7222.
documents, old coins, clothing, individuals since the early @ Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Sun.
and paintings. The artist 20th century and prizes & 8 by appointment.
Pedro Américo’s monumental from São Paulo’s Art Biennials. ∑ butantan.gov.br
canvas Independência ou Morte The collection comprises
(1888), depicting the young The Instituto Butantã is a
prince shouting his grito biomedical research center
(cry), sits in the building’s affiliated to the Cidade
most handsome room, the Universitária, the University
Salão Nobre. of São Paulo. Founded in
The mock French Renaissance 1901 by Vital Brasil to conduct
gardens are dotted with research into venomous
sculptures and monuments. animals, the institute is
These include an enormous now one of the leading
bronze sculpture to the nation’s producers of anti-venoms
independence, Monumento a and sera in the world. It is
Independência, made by the also one of the city’s principal
Italian sculptor Ettore Ximenes tourist attractions, as it is
in 1921. In the chapel at the Estrada de Ferro Central do Brasil by Tarsila located in a pretty forested
base of the monument a de Amaral at MAC garden full of hummingbirds.
Pits alongside the center and an Germany, and his early work
adjacent museum house many with the architect Lucio Costa
of South America’s more exotic who had worked with Le
snakes and arachnids. Smaller Corbusier. Burle Marx was one
but even deadlier creatures can of the first architects to
be seen through microscopes combine sculptural and
in the institute’s Museu de painting techniques with
Microbiologia. This bright, landscape design.
modern space also includes His gardens in the Parque
excellent interactive displays Burle Marx have been com-
which are particularly popular pared to abstract paintings,
with children. utilizing simple shapes, and
some curvilinear and recti-
linear patterns to create blocks
d Jardim Botânico of color and texture, broken by
Av Miguel Stéfano 3031. Tel (11)
paths and areas of woodland.
5067 6000. @ Open 9am–5pm Marx was a keen ecologist and
Tue–Sun. & 7 promoted the use of Brazilian
native species, and the park is
Other than the Serra da Pond with a tropical forest glade at the surrounded by a small area of
Cantareira mountains on the Jardim Botânico forest, comprising various
city’s western fringe, the Jardim Mata Atlântica species.
Botânico is the largest area with tropical forest cut by Although Marx contributed
of green in São Paulo’s short trails and little running to Parque do Ibirapuera (see
metropolitan area. It combines streams. Walkers should be pp150–51), this park is the only
formal gardens, laid out around wary of snakes. exclusive example of his work
a series of lakes with areas of in his home city. The gardens
forest large enough to support were originally private, com-
several resident troops of red f Parque Burle missioned for the millionaire
howler monkeys. Their guttural Marx industrialist “Baby” Pignatari
calls can be heard here at dawn Av Dona Helena Pereira de Morais 200.
in the 1940s.
and dusk and sometimes the Tel (11) 3746 7631. @ As well as landscaping,
monkeys themselves can be Open 7am–7pm daily. & Burle Marx was allowed to
seen in the trees. There is plenty experiment and place abstract
of other wildlife too, including Roberto Burle Marx (1909–94) structures in the gardens.
agoutis, pacas, and tufted-eared was South America’s greatest These include mirrors of
marmosets. The latter often loiter landscape architect and one of water and rectangular blocks
about in the trees around the the three core designers of reminiscent of the low Mixtec
lawns of the sculpture garden Brasília (see pp298–9). His buildings in Mitla, Mexico. The
hoping to grab a fruity morsel. designs were strongly influ- constructions near the avenue
The entrance to the park enced by Modernist ideas of palms at the park’s entrance
is through an avenue of inspired by his studies in are by Oscar Niemeyer.
magnificent royal palms,
surrounded by tropical and
subtropical trees. Most are
labeled with their common
and scientific names (the
former in Portuguese only).
The avenue leads to the Jardim
Lineu, inspired by the gardens
in Uppsala, Sweden, and, like
them, are laid out in homage
to 18th-century biologist Carl
Linnaeus. Glass houses here
contain a number of Atlantic
rainforest plants and a
botanical museum preserves
a bank of Brazilian seeds from
flowering plants and important
fruit species.
Beyond the Jardim Lineu are
areas of ponds and lawns
popular with picnickers on the
weekends. These are fringed Abstract rectangular structures, Parque Burle Marx
SHOPPING IN SÃO PAULO

Shopping in São Paulo is like shopping in a of Jardins, Pacaembu, and Vila Madalena are
large North American city. It is largely mall- bursting with smart little fancy boutiques.
and boutique-based and geared toward Many others can be found in the city’s
high-end luxury goods. However, more numerous opulent malls, which are large,
interesting are markets and fairs that take air-conditioned, and filled with restaurants,
place around town on weekends, selling entertainment areas, and shops housing
traditional goods. Unlike many big cities international brands and leading Brazilian
in South America, São Paulo has no designers. The city’s other good buys,
exclusive crafts markets or traditional artisan including CDs, books, coffee, and cachaça
ware of note, but there are a few arts and can also be bought from malls. High-quality
crafts specialist shops. São Paulo is Latin household items can be found on Rua
America’s fashion capital and the districts Gabriel Monteiro Silva in Jardins.
to CDs before buying. Such

shops are to be found in
many of the larger malls but
the best in the city is probably
FNAC, which also stocks an
excellent selection of Brazilian
DVDs. Its selections of Latin
American art-house films are
particularly strong.
Grandes Galerias, or the
Galeria do Rock, has a large
choice of rock CDs and DVDs.
This arcade has around 100
different small shops selling
Designer shops lining Rua Oscar Freire every manner of CD and DVD.
However, only a few stores
Shopping hours particularly strong on dresses offer the desirable option of
Shops in São Paulo are open and evening wear. More listening before buying.
from 8am to 6pm. Street shops established names can be
tend to open from 8 or 10am found here too. Amir Slama
to 6pm. They are closed on opened his own store here and Beverages
Brazilian public holidays. Most now stocks the world’s sexiest The raw ingredient for the
shopping centers and malls are and most fashionable bikinis. caipirinha cocktail, Brazilian
open from 10am to 10pm and Other designers, such as cachaça or sugar-cane rum is
on weekends (including rising star Santa Paciência, sometimes difficult to find
Sunday) from 10am to 8pm. celebrated for her elegant and outside of Brazil. But in São
They often do not close on original use of light, flowing Paulo, bottles are on sale in any
public holidays. fabrics, are based in Pacaembu, corner shop at a reasonable
a short taxi drive away from price. The Cachaçaria Paulista,
central São Paulo. however, is a bar and shop
Fashion for connoisseurs, selling more
The domestic fashion market than 300 different cachaças,
in Brazil is flourishing, with Music & Film the best of which are said
almost all Brazilian labels Bossa nova, samba, frevo, forró, to be from Minas Gerais.
coming from São Paulo. axé, choro – it is difficult to think Very fine coffee beans and
The market is strongest for of a country with as many grounds can be bought here.
women’s clothing and the best homegrown musical genres Santo Grão in Jardins and
place to begin a browse is in as Brazil. São Paulo is the boutiques in the various
Jardins. Here, hundreds of best place in the malls have shops
tasteful little shops sell colorful, country either to selling gourmet and
beautifully cut clothes. Many of begin an acquaintance quality blends. Some
the latest generation of young with this diversity or to of the very best are
Paulistana designers, such as explore its variety. to be found in the
Adriana Barra and Cris Barros, Many of the larger shop of the Museu
have their showrooms in stores give customers do Café in Santos
Jardins. These labels are the chance to listen Brazilian music CDs (see p172).
S H O P P I N G I N S Ã O PA U LO 155
Books & Magazines Paulistanos adore decor.

Large bookshops can Etel Interiores has exquisite
be found in the malls and top-end home furnishings from
are usually well-stocked with furniture to small decorative
English-language novels. The items. The most interesting
greatest variety is to be found pieces are made from sustain-
in FNAC, Saraiva, and Livraria able materials in Acre in the
Cultura. The bookshops Brazilian Amazon. Firma Casa
attached to the MASP and stocks the best of Brazil’s
MAM galleries are well worth furniture makers.
a browse. Brazilian art books
are of a very high international
standard and much of Shopping Malls
the material, including There are shopping malls
reproductions of European throughout the city, many of
art kept in Brazil, can only be which stock similar items and
found here. Particularly brands, making it difficult to
interesting are the gorgeous Household knick-knacks on display at choose between them. The
photographic books. Brazilian Jacaré do Brasil best design names are to be
art and social photography is found in South America’s oldest
excellent and well represented Arts, Crafts & Design mall, Iguatemi, which still looks
in the gallery souvenir shops. Although arts and crafts are as if it was built yesterday.
Overpriced international best bought regionally, Shopping Ibirapuera has the
papers and magazines can particularly in centers such as most shops and perhaps the
also be bought at the larger Manaus, Palmas, or Caruaru, greatest middle-brow choice.
bookshops. There are no there are a few specialist shops São Paulo has only one
English-language publications in São Paulo. The Casa das department store, Daslu, but
in Brazil. Portuguese readers Culturas Indígenas sells it is internationally famous and
will find newsstands or bancas indigenous jewelry and attracts élite and wealthy clients
dotted throughout the city, household goods. Jacaré do from around the continent.
with a bewildering variety Brasil stocks indigenous and Many international and Brazilian
of glossy reading material regional items from household big design names are sold here,
to choose from. decoration to textiles. together with Daslu’s own brand.
DIRECTORY
Fashion Galeria do Rock MASP Firma Casa
Rua 24 de Maio 62 & Av Av Paulista 1578. Al Gabriel Monteiro da
Adriana Barra São João 439. Map 1 B2. Map 4 F2. Silva 1487.
Alameda Franca 1243. Tel (11) 3251 5644. Map 3 B4.
Map 4 F3. Beverages ∑ masp.art.br Tel (11) 3068 0377.
Tel (11) 2925 2300. ∑ firmacasa.com.br
∑ adrianabarra.com.br Cachaçaria Paulista Saraiva
Rua Mourato Coelho 593, Morumbi Shopping, Av Jacaré do Brasil
Amir Slama Pinheiro. Map 3 A3. Roque Petroni Jr. 1089, Rua Melo Alves 555.
Rua Oscar Freire 977. Tel (11) 3815 4756. Morumbi. Map 4 D2.
Map 4 D2. Tel (11) 5181 7574. Tel (11) 3081 6109.
Tel (11) 3061 0450. Santo Grão
∑ jacaredobrasil.
Rua Oscar Freire 413.
Cris Barros Map 4 D3.
Arts, Crafts & com.br
Rua Vitório Fasano 85. Tel (11) 3082 4892.
Design
Map 4 D3.
Shopping Malls
Casa das Culturas
Tel (11) 3082 3621. Books & Indígenas Daslu
Santa Paciência Magazines Rua Augusta 1371, Av Juscelino Kubitschek
Rua Girassol 223, Vila loja 107. 2041, Vila Olímpia.
Livraria Cultura
Madalena. Map 4 E1. Tel (11) 3841 4000.
Av Paulista 2073.
Map 3 A1. Tel (11) 3283 4924. ∑ daslu.com.br
Map 4 E2.
Tel (11) 3814 9188. Tel (11) 3170 4033. Iguatemi
Etel Interiores
Av Brig. Faria Lima 2232.
Music & Film MAM Al Gabriel Monteiro da
Map 3 A5.
Parque do Ibirapuera, Silva, 1834.
Tel (11) 3816 6116.
FNAC Portão 3. Map 3 A4.
Av Paulista 901. Map 4 E5. Tel (11) 3064 1266. Shopping Ibirapuera
Map 4 F3. Tel (11) 5085 1300. ∑ etelinteriores. Av Ibirapuera 3103.
Tel (11) 2123 2000. ∑ mam.org.br com.br Tel (11) 5095 2300.
ENTERTAINMENT IN
SÃO PAULO
São Paulo has an incredible nightlife with range of films can be viewed as well, with
a bewildering choice of activities on offer. state-of-the-art multiplexes showing the
Live music, in diverse styles, is performed latest blockbusters from Europe, Latin
every night by the most distinguished America, or Asia and art-house theaters
artists in the country. Brazil’s finest offering popular national cinema. A
orchestra, theater, and concert halls are progressive city, São Paulo has the largest
also located in São Paulo. The city boasts Gay Pride parade in the world, which takes
myriad dance clubs offering samba, forró, place in June. Children are welcome
and a dozen other traditional styles, everywhere – even in bars and restaurants,
alongside ubiquitous international club and the largest theme park in South America,
music, often with a Brazilian twist. A wide Playcenter, lies on the city’s doorstep.
Guides & listings home in Latin America’s best

The Tourist Information Desk 1,500-seat concert hall, the
at Guarulhos International Sala São Paulo. The acoustics
Airport offers information in here are almost perfect.
English about what’s on in the The Sala São Paulo regularly
city. The Friday edition of the advertises its upcoming
Folha de São Paulo and Estado programs on its website. The
do São Paulo newspapers and city’s other key music venue
Veja magazine’s cultural insert, for opera and classical concerts
Veijinha, have comprehensive is the distinguished Theatro
listings in Portuguese. Municipal. The Teatro Alfa
The central ticket-selling specializes in ballet.
office in São Paulo is
Ticketmaster, which sells
tickets through the Saraiva and Dance Bars & Clubs
FNAC bookshops (see p155). Sergio Dias, Ceumar, and Rebecca Matta Dance bars and clubs are
performing at SESC Pompéia concentrated in two areas of
the city – Vila Madalena and
Live Music ous concert halls such as Pinheiros, southwest of the
A plethora of small venues in the Via Funchal. The most center, and the contiguous
the bairros of Vila Madalena, popular national and inter- bairros of Vila Olímpia, Itaim,
Pinheiros, and Vila Olímpia national groups, such as Ivete and Moema in the south. The
play host to all manner of live Sangalo and U2, play in the former is more lively, with live
acts. Almost all have a small Pacaembu stadium. forró and samba bands playing
restaurant area, a dance floor, to bars filled with university
and a sitting area. All have bars students. The Bambú and the
and serve beer and excellent Classical Music & Dance Canto da Ema are always
cocktails. Musical performances Brazil’s most reputable packed at weekends. Vila
may vary from week to week – orchestra, the São Paulo State Olímpia, Itaim, and Moema
from samba to Brazilian funk, Symphony Orchestra, has its are generally livelier
bossa nova, or the latest post-
mangue beat sounds from
the state of Pernambuco.
The best venues include
A Marcenaria and the Bourbon
Street Music Club, featuring
jazz and Dixieland.
More popular performers,
such as João Bosco or Otto, play
in the SESCs – cultural centers
with excellent concert halls.
The best are in Vila Mariana and
Pompéia. Legendary singers
such as Milton Nascimento and
Caetano Veloso play in numer- Popular Vila Madalena Club in São Paulo
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N S Ã O PA U LO 157
neighborhoods and are

home to the bulk of clubs
which play host to big-name
DJs, such as Marky and Patiffe,
and play techno and trance
music. The Consolação area is
very popular for nightlife and
has numerous trendy venues,
including Sonique, Volt, and
Z Carniceria.
Cinema & Theater

The city has some 250 cinema
houses and hosts several
important film festivals. Almost Fans cheer during a championship match at the Estádio Morumbi
all the shopping malls have
large multiplexes showing not Children Soccer
only the latest films from São Paulo’s urban environment Soccer is an obsession in São
Hollywood but also national makes outdoor attractions for Paulo, as it is throughout the
releases. There are more than 20 children few and far between, country, and the city has the
art-house cinemas, including although there are some most prestigious soccer teams
the Cine SESC and the Reserva popular amusement and in Brazil. There are three First
Cultural off Avenida Paulista. theme parks scattered across Division teams based in São
Non-Portuguese films are the city. However, the biggest Paulo who play in the impres-
subtitled rather than dubbed. attraction, the largest theme sive Morumbi and Pacaembu
São Paulo has more than 100 park in Latin America, the stadiums. Estádio Morumbi is
theaters with shows almost Playcenter, is 50 miles (80 km) the home ground of São Paulo
exclusively in Portuguese. Most from São Paulo. The city also Futebol Clube. Matches are
of the theaters are found in Bela boasts the Fundação Parque generally held on Wednesday
Vista and Bixiga. The Cultura Zoológico de São Paulo (São and at the weekend. To watch a
Inglesa features English- Paulo Zoo), set in a state game check the schedules in
language films and TV shows. preserve of coastal rainforest. ticket offices.
DIRECTORY
Guides & Listings Sonique Dance Bars & Cultura Inglesa
Rua Bela Cintra 416. Clubs Rua Deputado Lacerda
Ticketmaster Franco 333.
Map 4 F1.
∑ ticketmaster.com.br Bambú Tel (11) 3032 4888.
Tel (11) 2628 8707. Rua Purpurina 272. Map 3
Tourist Information Reserva Cultural
Via Funchal A1. Tel (11) 3031 2331.
Desk Av Paulista 900, São Paulo.
Guarulhos International Rua Funchal 65, Vila Canto da Ema Map 4 E2.
Airport. Olímpia. Av Brig. Faria Lima 364, Tel (11) 3287 3529.
Tel (11) 6445 4029. Tel (11) 3044 2727. Pinheiros.
Tel (11) 3813 4708. Children
Live Music Classical Music & Sonique
Dance Fundação Parque
A Marcenaria Rua Bela Cintra 461. Map 4
Zoológico de São
Rua Fradique Coutinho F1. Tel (11) 2628 8707.
Sala São Paulo Paulo
1378, Vila Madalena. Praça Julio Prestes 16. Volt Av Miguel Stéfano 4241.
Map 3 A2. Map 1 B1. Rua Haddock Lobo 40. Tel (11) 5073 0811.
Tel (11) 3032 9006. Tel (11) 3367 9500. Map 4 F1.
Playcenter
Tel (11) 2936 4041.
Bourbon Street Teatro Alfa Rua José Gomes Falcão
Music Club Z Carniceria 20, Barra Funda.
Rua Bento Branco de
Rua dos Chanés 127, Rua Augusta 934. Map 4 Tel (11) 2244 7529.
Andrade Filho 722, Santo
Moema. F1. Tel (11) 2936 0934. ∑ playcenter.com.br
Tel (11) 5095 6100. Amaro.
Tel (11) 5693 4000. Cinema & Theater Soccer
SESC
SESC Vila Mariana, Rua Theatro Municipal Cine SESC Estádio Morumbi
Pelotas 141. Praça Ramos de Azevedo. Rua Augusta 2075. Praça Roberto Gomes
Tel (11) 5080 3000. Map 1 C2 & C3. Map 4 E2. Pedrosa 1, São Paulo.
∑ sescsp.org.br Tel (11) 3397 0300. Tel (11) 3087 0500. Tel (11) 3749 8000.
158 S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y
SÃO PAULO STREET FINDER

Map references given in this guide that follow refer to the grid reference
for entertainment venues, shopping on that map. The map below shows the
areas, and other attractions in São Paulo different areas of São Paulo City – Centro,
City refer to the Street Finder maps on Bela Vista, Jardins, and Jardim Paulista –
the following pages. Map references covered by the five Street Finder maps.
are also provided for São Paulo City Symbols used for sights and useful
restaurants (see pp389–90) and hotels information are displayed in the key
(see p373–4). The first figure in the map below. A list of important places of
reference indicates which Street Finder interest marked on the maps can be
map to turn to, and the letter and number found on page 140.
AV MA RG
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Scale of Maps 1–2 & 3–4
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S Ã O PA U LO C I T Y S T R E E T F I N D E R 159
Streetwise in São Paulo areas around the city’s main

São Paulo has one of the train station, Praça da Sé,
highest crime rates of any city Praça da República, and
in the world. However, most of Praça Roosevelt. Be careful in
the violence is restricted to the the city center late at night,
isolated areas dominated by the as well as in the cheap
favelas (shantytowns), which lie accommodation area around
on the periphery of the city far Rua Santa Efigênia.
from the upmarket areas more Cameras, credit cards, and
frequented by visitors. Though cash should be kept out of
you are unlikely to meet with sight, preferably in a money
serious trouble in São Paulo, it belt, with a few notes left in
is important nonetheless to a pocket or handbag. It is wise
take all adequate precautions. to withdraw cash only during
Visitors are required to carry the day and use ATMs that
their identification documents are within the bank premises
at all times. rather than in a crowded street.
Visitors must exercise greater The metro is safe for
caution while traveling in commuting during the day,
certain parts of the city, but it is recommended to Brigadeiro metro station entrance in
including the district of Luz, use taxis after dark. These can Paulista Avenue, São Paulo
be booked through a hotel
or rented at one of the many If held up or driven at gunpoint
taxi stands. to an ATM machine, avoid
AV
Driving and navigation in any provocation that could

DO
São Paulo are difficult. Carjacking prove fatal.

EST
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and red-light robberies are There have been many

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the traffic law allows drivers to by the PCC (Primeiro Comando
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SÃO PAULO STATE

São Paulo is famous for its beaches, pristine island resorts,
spectacular surf, and majestic rainforests. Divided into
Litoral Norte and Litoral Sul, the state’s coastline is one
of the most incredible in the southern half of Brazil. São
Paulo’s agricultural hinterland is the reason it is Brazil’s
economic powerhouse. It is also home to a diverse range
of immigrant communities.
The colony of Brazil was officially City, with similar numbers of high-rise
established in São Vicente (present- buildings facing the ocean, are the most
day Santos) in 1532 by Martim Afonso popular destinations. All three have
de Souza. The handful of sailors that beaches that have consistently been rated
remained formally named the beach among the nation’s top ten by the
São Vicente, and, as pioneers, had to country’s tourist magazines. Puma and
fend for themselves in a new land, coping ocelot still hunt in the wild Atlantic moun-
with assaults launched by the local tain forests which lie only a short distance
Tamoio Indians. Settlements followed behind them.
shortly after in nearby Santos and in The full majesty of the Atlantic
São Sebastião, opposite the island of coastal forest, the Mata Atlântica, unfolds
Ilhabela, now a beautiful resort. All towns around Estação Ecológico Juréia-Itatins,
in the region preserve interesting sights and Cananéia in the Litoral Sul. Lush
and legacies dating from their early ridges, waterfalls, and abundant plant
colonial days. life are its main attractions. The forest is
Most visitors, however, come to the São also home to a wide array of animals,
Paulo coast not for history but for sand, birds, and brilliantly colored butterflies.
surf, and rainforest. Ilhabela, Brazil’s largest One of the loveliest spots is Ilha do
tropical island, Ubatuba, whose 70 Cardoso, a boat ride from Cananéia,
beaches stretch to the state’s far north, where caimans can be seen basking
and Guarujá, similar to Copacabana in Rio in the sun on the beaches.
Stream flowing through the lush Mata Atlântica near Ubatuba

Ilha Urubuqueçaba, Santos, as seen from Morro Voturuá
Exploring São Paulo State

The São Paulo coast is divided into the Litoral Norte, which
stretches towards Rio in the northeast from the port city
of Santos, and the Litoral Sul, which stretches from Santos
towards Paraná state. The Litoral Norte is one of the most
heavily visited coastlines in southeastern Brazil. Beaches S ÃO
on the Ilhabela, Brazil’s largest tropical island, and the P A U LO
S TAT E
resort of Ubatuba, are magnificently backed by towering
spurs swathed in tropical rainforest. The sands of the
Litoral Sul are darker and siltier than those of the Litoral
Norte. Around Cananéia and Juréia, and stretching into Key
Paraná, are the largest tracts of lowland coastal forest Area illustrated
outside the Amazon. The beautiful beaches of the Ilha
do Cardoso are just a boat ride away from Cananéia.
Sights at a Glance São José do

Rio Preto Limeira
Towns & Cities
1 Ubatuba
Piracicaba
2 São Sebastião Americana
5 Guarujá
Campinas
6 Santos
7 São Vicente Valinhos
Conchas
Indaiatuba
9 Iguape Laranjal Tietê
0 Cananéia Paulista
Salto
State Parks & Areas of Boituva
Tatuí Itu
Natural Beauty
8 Estação Ecológica Angatuba
Sorocaba
Juréia-Itatins São
Votorantim Roque
Islands Itapetininga
Ibiúna
3 Ilhabela
Buri
SÃO PAULO Piedade
q Ilha do Cardoso São Miguel
Arcanjo Pilar do Sul
Beaches Juquitiba
Itapeva Tapiraí
4 Maresias Capão Bonito
Capuava
Itararé Guapiara
Pedro Pedro
Ribeirão
Branco ba Barros Toledo
ca
pia Juquiá
na Dedo de Deus
Serra Para ESTAÇÃO ECOLÓGICO 4,429 ft
(1,350 m)
JURÉIA-ITATINS
Apiaí Rib Barra do
Eldorado eira Una
de
I gu
Iporanga Jacupiranga ape
Ribeira
IGUAPE
Barra do
Turvo
Curitiba
CANANÉIA
Key
Highway Ariri
ILHA DO CARDOSO
Major road
0 km 25
Minor road
0 miles 25
Railroad
State border
Peak
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p374 and p391
S Ã O PA U LO S TAT E 167
The beautiful Praia das Toninhas in Ubatuba
Rio de
Janeiro
Lindoia Socorro Piquete Bananal

Belo Campos Areias
Horizonte do Jordão
Amparo Lorena
Guaratinguetá Bairro dos
Macacos
Serão da
Bragança Bocaina
Paulista Pindamonhangaba
Piracaia Taubaté a
Lagoinha ti ng
Itatiba Cacapava i Cunha
ra
Jundiaí
Atibaia São José dos Pa
Campos
São Luís do
Paraitinga
Franco da Rocha Jacareí
Paraibuna
Guarulhos Itaquaquecetuba UBATUBA
Santo Moji Salesópolis
Embu São André das Cruzes
Paulo Caraguatatuba
São Bernardo MARESIAS
do Campo
ILHABELA
Cubatão
SÃO SEBASTIÃO Ilha do São Sebastião
SÃO VICENTE SANTOS Ponta do Boi
Praia Grande GUARUJA
Ilha de
Alcatrazes
Itanhaém
Getting Around
There are two large airports – international
and domestic – in São Paulo City. Regular
bus services ply between São Paulo City
and the major towns on the coast, but
reaching the best of the beaches requires
a car. The main routes to the coast are
the Anchieta and Imigrantes highways
between São Paulo City and Santos. From
Santos, the route north follows the Rio–
Santos (SP-055), which passes through all
the major beach towns and heads into
Rio de Janeiro state. The Litoral Sul can
be reached by SP-055, which reaches only
as far as the northern part of Juréia State
Park. Towns farther to the south can be
reached off highway BR-116. Verdant Mata Atlântica (Atlantic rainforest) in São Paulo
coastline was cloaked in a forest

larger than the Amazon. North of
Guanabara Bay was Tamoio
indigenous country, and São
Sebastião became the
northernmost Portuguese outpost
for the indigenous slave trade.
As it grew, the city became one of
the country’s first sugar-growing
centers and the thirst for slave
labor became unquenchable. The
city was also among the first to
receive Africans in the slave trade.
Although most people who
Picinguaba beach in Ubatuba with Serra do Mar mountains in the distance come to São Sebastião do so
merely to pass through on their
1 Ubatuba  Aquário de Ubatuba way to Ilhabela, the town has a
Rua Guaraní 859. Tel (12) 3834 1382. colonial center of historical
* 65,000. ~ @ n Av Iperoigi 214,
Open 10am–8pm Sun–Tue & Thu, importance which merits at
(12) 3833 9123. 10am–10pm Fri & Sat. & least a couple of hours’ leisurely
Lying at the northern extreme O Projeto Tamar stroll before departing.
of São Paulo state and sitting Rua A. Atanázio 273. Tel (12) 3832 São Sebastião’s colonial
at the feet of the Serra do Mar 6202. Open 10am–6pm Mon, Tue, Thu streets lie in the few blocks
mountain range, Ubatuba is a & Sun, 10am–8pm Fri & Sat. between the shoreline and the
little beach resort with a small Praça Major João Fernandes at
colonial center lined with Environs the heart of the city, easily
terraced houses. Glorious The twin beaches of Domingas recognizable by the imposing
beaches surround the resort. Dias and Lázaro, whose white 17th-century church, the Igreja
The most popular beaches, sands curve gently on either side Matriz, which watches over it.
especially those south of the of a forest-clad promontory, are This is largely a 19th-century
town center such as Praia located 11 miles (18 km) south reconstruction devoid of much
Grande, have an excellent infra- of Ubatuba. The Peninsula da of its original church art.
structure, including play areas Ponta da Fortaleza lies just However, the refurbished
for children. Buses running south of Domingas Dias and is Museu de Arte Sacra, housed in
along the coastal road pass fringed with manyquiet beaches, the 17th-century chapel of São
other nearby beaches, such including Praia Vermelha do Sul. Gonçalo, a block to the south of
as Enseada, Picinguaba, and Surfers head north of Ubatuba to the church, preserves a number
Flamengo. Even in high season Praia Vermelha do Norte for the of beautiful, delicate images of
it is easy to find a quiet stretch best waves on the Litoral Norte. Christ. Dating from the 16th
of sand or lonely cove tucked century, these images were
away along the coast to the found within cavities in the wall
south of Ubatuba. 2 São Sebastião of the Igreja Matriz during its
The Aquário de Ubatuba in * 58,000. @ n Av Doutor Altino restoration in 2003.
the center of the town contains Arantes 174, (12) 3892 2620. There are also a few streets
some of the largest tanks and _ Festas do 20 de Janeiro (Jan). lined with Portuguese houses
most diverse range of tropical ∑ saosebastiao.com.br and a number of civic buildings,
marine life in all of Brazil. The the most impressive of which
office of the Projeto Tamar, a São Sebastião was founded in the is the Casa Esperança on the
Brazil-wide organization that early 17th century, when Brazil’s waterfront. Built from stone
monitors and preserves turtle
nesting beaches, is also located
in town. Visitors are permitted
to witness turtle hatchings
under supervision.
The Serra do Mar rises in a
vertiginous green wall only
a short distance north of
Ubatuba and an easy drive
away from the town. Carpeted
in thick primary forest, the Serra
is home to many endangered
endemic species. Birdlife, too,
is prolific in this picturesque
mountainous area. Façade of Igreja Matriz, São Sebastião
and wattle and daub congealed

with whale oil, the exterior is
whitewashed with lime made
from thousands of crushed
shells. The Casa contains some
faded but original 17th-century
ceiling paintings and statuary.
P Casa Esperança
Av Altino Arantes 144.
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 7–10am
Sat & Sun.
R Igreja Matriz
Praça Major João Fernandes.
Tel (12) 3892 1110. Open 9am– Waterfront at Vila Ilhabela with 18th-century cannon
noon, 1–7pm daily.
E Museu de Arte Sacra cannons adorn its waterfront 4 Maresias
Rua Sebastião Silvestré Neves 90. and there is a little avenue of * 3,000. n Praça Pôr-do-Sol, in
Tel (12) 3892 4286. Open 9am–noon, Portuguese buildings, including Boiçucanga, 4 miles (7 km) W of
2–6pm Tue–Sat. 7 ^ a 16th-century church, the Maresias, (12) 3865 4335.
Matriz de Nossa Senhora d’Ajuda.
The island’s other road is a dirt South of São Sebastião lie a
3 Ilhabela track, usable only by four-wheel number of beautiful beach
* 28,000. g from São Sebastião to drives, which cuts across the resorts. Maresias, the liveliest of
Perequê. n Praça Vereador José Leite interior from Perequê into the the lot, is busy with young, hip
dos Passos 14, Barra Velha, (12) 3895 park and to the windward Paulistanos at weekends and
7220. _ Festa do Camarão (Aug). beaches. The most spectacular holidays. Praia de Maresias is
∑ ilhabela.com.br of these is the Baía de famous for its powerful surf,
Castelhanos, a perfect half- which has been the site for
One of Brazil’s largest islands, moon of sand backed by many international surfing
Ilhabela rises steeply out of the rainforest-covered slopes. competitions. Toque Toque
Atlantic, a short distance offshore The island’s longest beach, and Grande and Toque Toque
from São Sebastião. the best for surfing, is Bonete, Pequeno, 6 miles (9 km) south-
With a coastline which is 9 miles (15 km) south east, are smaller, quieter beaches,
sculpted by dozens of from Borrifos village, sheltered by rainforest-covered
bays and beaches, it is along a rough forest spurs. There are plenty of
covered in rainforest, trail. pousadas and restaurants on, or
much of it cut by fast-flowing Ilhabela’s forests just off, the São Sebastião road,
mountain streams. Visitors are dripping with which runs along the coast.
from São Paulo throng waterfalls, but many
here during weekends, are either completely
but during the week inaccessible or 5 Guarujá
(outside of holiday reachable only by * 310,000. n Av Marechal Deodoro
season) the island is all Blue dacnis, trail. A short distance da Fonseca 723, (13) 3344 4600.
but deserted. Much of Ilhabela inland from Perequê ∑ portal.guaruja.sp.gov.br
the forest is protected as beach, Cachoeira da Toca
part of the Parque Estadual de waterfalls plunge in a series of Situated close to São Paulo
Ilhabela and there is plenty of little cascades into swimming and on the way to Santos,
wildlife, including ocelots and pools, replete with waterslides. this beachtown is a popular
several species of primates. Cachoeira da Água Branca is weekend and day-trip destin-
The presence of biting flies, or larger, with more swimming ation for São Paulo residents.
borrachudos, on the island make pools. It is an hour’s walk along It is known as the “Pearl of the
insect repellent essential. a trail which begins at the Atlantic” and has about 14 miles
Ilhabela has just two roads. entrance to the state park, a (23 km) of white beaches that
One is paved and runs the short distance beyond the turn- stretch along the coast. The
entire length of the western, off to Cachoeira da Toca. longest of these, Enseada Beach,
leeward coast. Most of the Numerous shipwrecks off is popular with surfers, and its
numerous pousadas and Ilhabela also make it a popular shores are lined with hotels and
guesthouses lie here, as do scuba-diving destination, kiosks. For those who don’t only
the villages of Perequê (where despite the murky water. want to soak up the sun, other
the ferry arrives), Borrifos, São activities include artisan fishing
Pedro, and Vila Ilhabela. The } Cachoeira da Toca and looking at the town’s
latter has a few colonial rem- Estrada Baía de Castelhanos. historical buildings. The town
ains. Rusting 18th-century Open 24 hrs daily. & also has an aquarium.
A fishing village on the coastal outskirts of the city of Santos, São Paulo State
Stained-glass skylight, depicting a representation of Brazil, the Mãe Douro, Bolsa e Museu do Café, Santos
6 Santos undergoing a spruce-up and is The auction room is crowned

* 418,000. @ n Setur, Largo
now very attractive. Scottish by a magnificent stained-glass
Marquês de Monte Alegre, (13) 3201 trams in British racing green skylight, with an arresting
8000. ∑ santos.sp.gov.br run through its streets, taking representation of Brazil, the Mãe
visitors on a whistle-stop tour of Douro; crowned with a star, she
When Santos was founded in the various attractions. The city rises from flames in a landscape
1535, it was one of Portugal’s center is also small enough to thick with tropical animals and
first New World settlements. stroll around and have a closer startled-looking indigenous
Since the mid-16th century, look at these sights on foot. people. The skylight and the
when neighboring São Vicente The jewel in the city’s crown is beautiful Neo-Renaissance
was established, Santos had the Art Nouveau Bolsa e Museu painting of Santos that adorns
been a port. First it do Café. Its modest the walls of the stock exchange
dealt with sugar, and Victorian exterior are by Brazil’s most celebrated
then with African hides an opulent mid-19th-century artist,
slaves. However, it marble-floored Benedito Calixto (see p34).
grew rich on coffee, turn-of-the-19th- A number of Calixto’s paintings
which was brought century stock are displayed in the Fundação
out of the mountains exchange and Pinacoteca Benedito Calixto,
on Brazil’s first trains, museum, together which is housed in one of the
built by the British in with a café shop few remaining coffee baron
the late 19th century. Scottish tram serving excellent mansions. The landscapes shown
Unlike São Vicente, coffee and desserts. here give an idea of the city’s
Santos has preserved vestiges of The Bolsa was once open only once breathtaking natural beauty.
its historical legacy, and, under to wealthy (and exclusively Santos has a handful of
recent enlightened municipal male) coffee barons who traded interesting churches, but the
governance, is reinventing and here. When it was built, coffee only one open to the public is
refurbishing itself. Once was the most important and the Santuário Santo Antônio
decrepit, the city center is coveted commodity in Brazil. do Valongo. The church’s mock-
Baroque interior dates from
the 1930s. The fine original
Football Legend Pelé 17th-century altarpiece remains
Regarded as the world’s preserved in the Franciscan chapel
most famous sportsman, Pelé to the left of the main entrance;
was born in Tres Corações, the statue of Christ is particularly
Minas Gerais. He started his striking. Next door to the church
career in Santos when, in 1956, is the British-built terminus of
the Santos Futebol Clube the now defunct Santos–São
signed him. Soon, he was Paulo railway. Built between 1860
Pelé during Champions World Series offered a place in the Brazilian and 1867, the station is vaguely
national team, and went on
2003, New York reminiscent of London’s Victoria.
to play in three of Brazil’s
five World Cup-winning teams. Since his retirement in 1977, The once-filthy city beaches
Pelé has worked as a charity patron Goodwill Ambassador are now much cleaner and are
for UNICEF. In 1992, he became the UN Ambassador for lively with bustling bazaars,
Ecology and Environment. In 1995, he was appointed and people playing volleyball
Minister of Sports, a post he resigned after becoming caught and football, every evening
up in one of the rumored, or real, corruption scandals that and weekend.
blight Brazilian politics. A monument to the thousands
of Japanese-Brazilians who
arrived in São Paulo state in

the early 20th century sits here, Japanese Immigration
together with the small but Brazil is home to the largest number of
popular Aquário de Santos. ethnic Japanese people outside Japan, and
In addition to a stunning range almost all their ancestors arrived at Santos.
of tropical marine life, it displays Immigration began in earnest after the Russo-
three of the five species of Japanese War (1904–5). Although Japan
sea turtles found in Brazil. emerged victorious, the penalty was high,
The beaches lying farther out leaving the poorer Japanese population with
in the Baía de Santos (Bay of a bleak future. São Paulo seemed to offer
All Saints) bustle with activity hope, as the state was rich in coffee and
at the weekends. workers were in short supply.
For all its history, it is for The first Japanese ship to land was the Kasato
football that Santos is most Maru, which brought 165 families to Santos on
famous outside Brazil. Pelé June 18, 1908. They left for the coffee plantations
played here for almost all his in the Mogiana region. By the beginning of World
professional life. The Santos War II, almost 150,000 Japanese had arrived. After
Football Club has an excellent freeing themselves from their labor contracts,
museum, the Memorial das communities began to grow in metropolitan Japanese Immigration
Conquistas, devoted to the São Paulo (see p149) and other parts of Brazil. Monument, Santos
club’s illustrious history.
 Aquário de Santos 7 São Vicente First capital of the Captaincy

Av Bartolomeu de Gusmão, Ponta * 418,000. @ ∑ saovicente.
of São Vicente, as São Paulo
da Praia. Tel (13) 3236 9996. sp.gov.br state was formerly known,
Open 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–8pm São Vicente won the epithet
Sat & Sun. & The pleasant, laid-back port of “Cellula Mater” (Mother
- Bolsa e Museu do Café town of São Vicente is known Cell) for being Brazil’s first
Rua 15 de Novembro 95. Tel (13) 3213 more for its historical organized town. The
1750. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, significance than the usual 18th-century Baroque parish
10am–5pm Sun. & ^ tourist attractions. church, the Igreja Matriz de
In 1532, Martim Afonso de São Vicente Mártir, is one
E Fundação Pinacoteca
Sousa established a small of the very few historical
Benedito Calixto
settlement on the eastern buildings in the city to have
Av Bartolomeu de Gusmão 15.
shores of South America. Thus survived the ravages of time.
Tel (13) 3288 2260. Open 2–7pm Tue–
Brazil was born, in the words of A tidal wave destroyed the
Sun. ^
Afonso’s brother, with “each man first church, built close to this
E Memorial das Conquistas as lord of his own property, and site by Martim Afonso shortly
Rua Princesa Isabel 77, Vila Belmiro. private injuries redressed, and after his arrival. The second
Tel (13) 3225 7989. Open 1–7pm all the other benefits of a secure parish church was built inland
Mon, 9am–7pm Tue–Sun. & 8 and sociable life.” São Vicente is on this present site. However,
prior booking required. ^ the scene of that noble it fared no better, and was
R Santuário Santo Antônio beginning, though only a ransacked by pirates. The
do Valongo handful of relics belonging to current building, standing on
Marquez de Monte Alegre 13. that distinguished past can be its ruins, is named in honor
Open 8am–6pm Tue–Sun. ^ found today. of the Spanish saint who is
patron of the city.
Also in the city center are the
remains of Martim Afonso’s
former home, and the first brick
building in Brazil. These are
housed inside the impressive
late 19th-century Casa Martim
Afonso, along with a few other
interesting pieces of colonial
bric-a-brac.
E Casa Martim Afonso

Praça 22 de Janeiro 469, Centro. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun & public hols.
R Igreja Matriz de São Vicente
Mártir
Praça João Pessoa s/n, Centro.
Proud display of trophies at the Memorial das Conquistas, Santos Open irregular timings.
9 Iguape
* 28,000. @ n Preifetura Rua 15
de Novembro 272, (13) 3841 3358.
∑ guiadeiguape.com.br
This pretty little colonial town

sits in a pocket of the Brazilian
coastal rainforest, the Complexo
Estuarino Lagunar de Iguape-
Cananéia-Paranaguá, in the
midst of breathtaking scenery.
The verdant Serra do Mar
mountains rise up behind the
Striking hills in the Estação Ecológica Juréia-Itatins town which is surrounded by
pristine mangrove wetlands and
8 Estação Ecológica This is one of the most lowland subtropical forest on all
Juréia-Itatins important breeding grounds for sides including the wilds of the
marine species in the southern Estação Ecológico Juréia-Itatins
@ to Iguape, then taxi. n Av São Atlantic and the myriad forest to the north. The Mirante do
Pedro 189, Barra do Ribiera, Iguape, types growing here protect one Morro do Espio is a lookout
(13) 3849 1293. & 8
of the world’s greatest diversities point with a fabulous view of
Brazil’s coastal rainforest of vascular plant, vertebrate, the port and surrounding area.
stretches in a series of rippling and invertebrate species. Iguape was founded in 1538
mountains and lowland forests There is a unique range of birds, by the Portuguese. No buildings
cut by broad rivers, mangrove butterflies, and mammals. Many remain from that time but the
wetlands, and pristine beaches larger animals, such as jaguars city center preserves the largest
all the way through from and tapirs, which have all but collection of post-17th-century
Peruíbe in southern São Paulo disappeared from coastal Brazil, colonial architecture in the
state to Paranaguá in Paraná. live in healthy numbers here. state. Most are civic buildings
The Estação Ecológica Juréia- Juréia itself protects a wide and town houses painted in
Itatins sits at the northern end variety of habitats; as a result thick primary colors and
of this rainforest, protecting the scenery is magnificent. Lush clustered around Praça São
316 sq miles (820 sq km) of green forest swathes the high Benedito, a sleepy central
Mata Atlântica. slopes of the Serra do Itatins in square watched over by a
Access to the ecological the eastern extremity of the towering 18th-century basilica.
station is restricted to park and continues all the way There are also two small
daytime visits only, and through to the lowland coastal museums in the city center.
must be arranged through areas, mixing with mangrove The Museu Histórico e
the park authorities in Iguape, wetlands and perfuming the Arqueológico is housed in a
just south of Juréia-Itatins. park’s extensive beaches. These 17th-century building which
Only certain areas are open to beautiful stretches of fine sand, was once the first gold foundry
the public, and most of these many of which are cut by clear in Brazil. It showcases a mixed
areas require prior permission rivers or washed by waterfalls, bag of historical material, from
before entering. Iguape is a are so deserted that caimans pre-Columbian remains found
good base for information on can occasionally be seen in nearby middens to artifacts
organized tours. basking in the sun at dawn. from the slaving era, and early
Rio Ribeira do Iguape estuary and Igreja do Rosário rising over Iguape town
photographs. The Museu de q Ilha do Cardoso

Arte Sacra in the 18th-century g from Cananéia. n Núcleo
Igreja do Rosário houses some Perequê, Cananéia, (13) 3851 1163.
100 ecclesiastical objects, most ∑ cananeia.net
of which date from the 18th
and 19th centuries. Just a 2-hour boat ride south
of Cananéia, Ilha do Cardoso, a
E Museu de Arte Sacra rugged 58 sq-mile- (150 sq-km-)
Igreja do Rosário, Rua Papa XXIII s/n. island, rises dramatically out of
Open 9–11:30am, 1–5:30pm Mon– the Atlantic Ocean. The island is
Sat. & primarily an ecological preserve
E Museu Histórico e which also has beautiful
Arqueológico deserted beaches and walking
Rua das Neves 45. Tel (13) 3841 3358. Stuffed great white shark, Museu trails. Together with Juréia-
Open 8am–noon, 1:30–5pm Tue–Sat, Municipal, Cananéia Itatins and Superagüi (see p343)
8am–noon Sun. & ^ across the border in Paraná, it
Cananéia to Ilha do Cardoso forms the core protected area of
Environs that lies in the Lagomar bay. the Brazilian coastal rainforest.
Just across the Rio Ribeira do Car and passenger rafts take Wetlands, mangroves, extensive
Iguape estuary, east of the town 10 minutes to ferry across the beaches, coastal dunes, and all
center, are extensive stretches of estuary in front of the town to of the numerous forest types
fine white-sand beaches which the southern reaches of the Ilha associated with the Mata
make up the island of Ilha Comprida, east of Iguape, and Atlântica are found here. Several
Comprida. They are accessible do so several times per day. species of turtle nest on the
by road, or a 5-mile (8-km) walk The beaches here lie a short island, caimans live in the rivers
across the estuary and sand flats distance beyond the island’s and estuaries, and jaguars and
via the pedestrian bridge. ferry port along a sandy road, pumas still hunt in the forests
Boqueirão Norte, located which is lined with a handful that cover the upper reaches.
immediately across the town, of tumble-down pousadas. The island is also rich in birdlife.
and Praia do Viareggio, 6 miles While in Cananéia, it is worth Pre-Columbian shell middens,
(10 km) south, are popular in visiting the tiny town museum, or sambaquis, dot the park’s
high season and lined with Museu Municipal, which beaches and six traditional
holiday homes. Farther south preserves bits of nautical caiçara fishing communities live
still and reachable by dune miscellany. Pride of place within the park, preserving a
buggy or by car is the far quieter among the exhibits goes to semi-indigenous way of life
Praia das Pedrinhas. what is reputed to be the which has so far largely resisted
largest great white shark ever, the pressures of urbanization.
weighing a hefty 7,716 lb Caiçara tidal fish traps can be
0 Cananéia (3,500 kg), now stuffed, painted, seen in the shallows of the
* 14,000. @ n Av Beira Mar 287, and hanging safely from the various little rivers and bays,
(13) 3851 1931. ∑ cananeia.net museum ceiling. attesting to the strong
indigenous heritage the com-
Cananéia is the farthest south E Museu Municipal munities preserve to this day.
of São Paulo’s small colonial Rua Tristão Lobo 78. Tel (13) 3851 Many of the caiçaras act as
seaside towns, and like the 1753. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. & guides and boatmen.
others it lies nestled at the
feet of the Serra do Mar
mountains overlooking
stretches of mangrove and
an open ocean dotted with
forest-covered islands. Outside
of the high season few visitors
ever make it here and the
town’s crumbling colonial
streets and fig-tree-filled
central square often have a
sleepy feel to them.
The most compelling reason
to come to Cananéia is to take a
boat trip out to the beaches
and islands, preferably with
plenty of time to spare. Fishing
boats and launches can be
chartered from the docks in Virgin beach on Ilha do Cardoso, near Cananéia
NORTHEAST
BRAZIL
Introducing Northeast Brazil 178–183

Bahia 184–211
Sergipe, Alagoas
& Pernambuco 212–229
Paraíba, Rio Grande
do Norte & Ceará 230–247
Piauí & Maranhão 248–259
178 NORTHEAST BRAZIL
Northeast Brazil at a Glance

Comprising the nine states of Bahia, Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco, Fernando
de Noronha
Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, Ceará, Piauí, and Maranhão, the
Northeast is truly a tropical paradise. Most of the states have three BRAZIL NORTHEAST
distinct areas – the fertile coastal strips with idyllic sand beaches BRAZIL
giving way to the intermediate hilly areas with lush Atlantic

rainforests, also home to a variety of fauna, and finally the vast
semi-arid interiors. The beaches here range from the fascinating
Canoa Quebrada beach in Ceará, to Genipabu and its sand dunes
in Rio Grande do Norte, Porto de Galinhas in Pernambuco, and
the Fernando de Noronha archipelago, among many others.
The legacy of the Northeast’s colonial history can still be
seen in numerous, impressive historic monuments
in Salvador, Olinda, and São Luís.
São Luís
Parnaíba
Santa Inês
Teresina
Imperatriz
PIAUÍ &
MARANHÃO
(See pp248–59)
Floriano
Balsas
São Luís (see pp256–8), capital of Maranhão, was

founded by the French. It is a town with a beautiful
historic core, Centro Histórico, with cobbled streets
and 3,500 pastel-colored colonial buildings, which Teresina
have been renovated. A UNESCO World Heritage (see p252)
Site, it is one of Brazil’s finest examples of
Portuguese architecture.
BAHIA
(See pp184–211)
Barreiras
Lençóis
0 km 200
Lençóis (see p208), in Bahia, is the perfect starting point to explore the
Chapada’s caves and waterfalls, or to hike up the 3,937-ft (1,200-m) 0 miles 200
surrounding peaks. Miners flocked to this area during the gold and
diamond rush.
Dazzling white sand surrounds a lagoon at Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses, Maranhão
INTRODUCING NORTHEAST BRAZIL 179
Fernando de Noronha
Fernando de Noronha (see pp228–9), part of

Pernambuco, comprises 21 islands. The warm, clear
0 km 3
waters here offer Brazil’s best scuba diving and
0 miles 3 snorkeling experience.
Sobral
Fortaleza
Mossoró
PARAÍBA,
RIO GRANDE DO Natal
NORTE & CEARÁ
Picos (See pp230–47)
João
Pessoa
Salgueiro
Recife
SERGIPE, ALAGOAS
& PERNAMBUCO
Petrolina (See pp212–29)
Maceió Natal (see p240), capital of Rio Grande do
Norte, is a popular sunshine destination.
Recife The beaches around Natal, with their huge
Aracaju (see pp220–23) moving dunes shaped by the shifting
wind, create fascinating landscapes of
snowy white sand.
Feira de
Santana Alagoinhas
Salvador
Jequié
Itabuna
Teixera
de Freitas Salvador (see pp188–99), capital of Bahia, has beautifully restored complexes of
Baroque churches and palaces, built during the 18th-century sugar boom. Its
historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offers a unique glimpse into
Brazil’s history and is the crown jewel of Portuguese architecture.
Afro-Brazilian Culture
A direct legacy of three centuries of slavery, the presence of
African culture in the Northeast makes the region distinctly
different from the rest of Brazil. Throughout the slavery
period in colonial Brazil, there was little or no sanction on
miscegenation. Over the years, masters, slaves, former
slaves, and their descendants integrated into the new
society of Brazil, creating an interesting blend of cultures
and bloodlines with Portuguese, Dutch, West African, and
Indian elements. This has uniquely resulted in what is now
called Afro-Brazilian culture, visible in the people, clothing, Colorful ribbons, bringing luck if tied
food (see pp182–3), religion, and music of the Northeast. around the wrist
Music
Africans brought along their fine command of
percussion. Bahia’s characteristic brand of Afro-
Brazilian music grew in many forms, with axé
becoming the signature sound of Salvador’s
Carnaval. In Pernambuco, as many as 13 distinct
rhythms developed, including Recife’s signature
beat, frevó (see p221). During the 20th century,
African music became part of the mainstream.
Samba won acceptance in the 1930s.
Pop star Carlinhos

Brown is one of the
traditional singers
who have become
world-famous with
their percussion-heavy
rhythms. This noted
advocate of Afro-
Brazilian culture hails
from Bahia.
Capoeira
A rhythmic, dance-like form of martial arts, capoeira was once
practised only by slaves and former slaves. Over the years, it came
to put less emphasis on fighting and more on the cooperative
elements of dance and display, with rhythmic, graceful
moves (see p203). Capoeira was a
way for the slaves to
continue practicing
Traditional instruments martial arts, with kicks
used in capoeira mainly disguised as fluid
constitute berimbau, a body movements.
single-stringed percussion Increasingly popu-
instrument featuring a steel lar, today it is
string and a hollowed-out taught and
gourd; atabaque, a large performed all
drum, and the pandeiro, over the region,
which resembles a and indeed
tambourine. the world.
Religion
Of West African origin, most of Brazil’s
original slave population believed in
a pantheon of deities, or orixás (see
p198). Each orixá was endowed with
its own personality and unique
powers, and was associated with a
particular set of natural elements.
The Portuguese, however, insisted
that all new arrivals be forcibly
converted to Catholicism. The Festive celebrations, such as the Lavagem do Bonfim (see
struggle gave rise to Candomblé, p199), can be experienced in and around Salvador. The day is
a blending of Catholicism and the meant to honor Yemanjá, the Goddess of the Sea. The
African beliefs (see p39). ceremonies blend Catholic-style processions with African
beats and music.
Arts & Crafts

Many of the Bahian arts and crafts are strongly
influenced by Afro-Brazilian traditions. The Mercado
Modelo (see p196) in Salvador is a good place for
souvenirs. Look for berimbaus and percussion
instruments, sometimes painted in bright colors, as
well as masks and pottery.
Wooden Masks are

intricately carved and
decorated with stones,
shells, and beads. The
northeastern masks are
allegoric representations of
the orixás.
Colorful figurines are produced by local

artisans as part of the rich pottery tradition
in the Northeast. Drawn from popular
folklore, these figurines are sold throughout
the region.
Dress
The most striking sartorial examples of African influence are the Baianas, the
women in turbans and long white dresses, often seen on the streets of
Salvador selling acarajé (see p183). The ensemble is believed to be derived
from the traditional dress of women in Nigeria. While their dresses are often
similar, each Baiana wears a different set of jewelry to pay homage to her
particular orixá (deity).
Colorful beads A young Baiana

and trinkets can in traditional
be bought from the dress of layers of
Baianas. Every color starched lace
is known to denote skirts, a shoulder
a specific orixá; cloth, high turban,
the blue is for and yellow and
Oshun, while red white beads and
represents Yansã. accessories.
The Flavors of Northeast Brazil

Northeast Brazil has two distinct regional cuisines, a reflection of
both culture and climate. The narrow, densely populated coast,
rich in fresh fruit and sugar cane and bordered by a generous
sea, is home to an African-descended population who
flavor their food with coconut milk and red dendê (palm)
oil. The interior, or sertão, is arid semi-desert, largely given
over to cattle tended by the cowboy descendents of
Portuguese immigrants. The interior cuisine consists of
sober, simple dishes, whose staples include sun-dried meat, Spicy cayenne pepper
manioc (cassava) root, rice, and black beans.
as often, goat – in the root is known as macaxeira.

Northeast is usually either sun- Plain ground manioc flour
dried (carne de sol) or air-dried (farinha) is often served as a
and heavily salted (carne seca). side dish; locals put it in their
Both are served in small morning coffee. Pan-fried
portions, often shredded, and with a little oil, the manioc
mixed in with either beans, flour becomes another
rice, or manioc. Manioc, common side dish, farofa.
indeed, is a centerpiece of Finally, the lighter parts of the
northeastern cooking. Sliced manioc root are made into
into strips and fried, the tapioca, the base ingredient
sweeter version of this versatile of desserts and breakfast
Distinctive caju fruit of the cashew tree,
showing the nut Clam Lobster Octopus
Giant shrimp
Cozinha Nordestina Squid Red mullet
When Brazilians refer to
cozinha nordestina (north-
eastern food) they usually
mean the dishes of the hot, dry
hinterland. Fresh ingredients
are few here, and refrigeration
virtually nonexistent.
Ingredients include the more
resilient vegetables such as
beans, corn and, especially,
manioc. Meat – beef or, just Some of the fish and seafood of Brazil’s Atlantic coastline
Regional Dishes & Specialties

Bahian cuisine is the most popular and
sophisticated in all of the Northeast.
The cooking is characterized by the
use of coconut milk, hot peppers,
and, importantly, dendê oil, which
gives the dishes their deep orange color.
Dendê oil This oil is extracted from a palm tree that
was brought to Brazil by African slaves.
Signature Bahian dishes include moqueca,
vatapá, and bobó de camarão. All are variations on a tasty
seafood stew. Traditionally, a moqueca is cooked in a large clay
pot and served with white rice and a serving of pirão, a manioc
paste. Both bobó de camarão and camarão na moranga (see p385)
feature large, juicy prawns cooked in coconut milk. The camarão na Bolinho de bacalhau is a
moranga comes served in a hollowed-out pumpkin shell, Portuguese snack made from
its broth thickened with the addition of fresh, sweet pumpkin, mashed potatoes and shredded
locally called jerimum. salt cod.
Acarajé
Acarajé is one of the most
popular snacks, especially in
Bahia. Cooked only by Baianas,
it was originally served as an
offering to Yansã, the Goddess
of Tempests. Balls of mashed
black-eyed beans are fried in
dendê oil, then cut open and
served with dried shrimp,
vatapá (shrimp paste), caruru
(okra stew), and hot sauce.
Baiana woman in traditional all-white costume, selling acarajé Abará is another kind of acarajé,
steamed and served on a ban-
pancakes. Desserts in the is the cavaquinha, a small ana leaf with the same toppings.
Northeast are usually simple lobster known for its sweet
mixtures of sugar and tapioca and tender meat, but the full- ON THE MENU
or cornflour, often covered in size south Atlantic lobster
condensed milk. Also popular is also found to the north, Baião de dois Made with rice,
are small and intensely sweet around Ceará. Large and beans, cheese, and garlic, this
succulent shrimp are another dish is often served with sun-
portions of dried and
or air-dried meat.
concentrated fruits, such as regular menu item. However,
caju (cashew), jaca (jackfruit), the tastiest northeastern Caldo de sururu A rich broth
goiaba (guava), and banana, shrimp, the pitu, is a freshwater made from tiny clams with
usually consumed together variety. Spicy pitu moqueca coconut milk, dendê oil,
with a small, very sweet cup is among the best featured coriander, and spices.
of coffee. on any menu. Carne de sol Goat meat or beef
is sun-dried to seal in moisture. It
may be served grilled or sautéed.
Fish & Seafood Casquinha de siri A savory
The long Atlantic coastline appetizer of shredded crab-
from Bahia to Maranhão yields meat flavored with coriander,
a wealth of fish, shellfish, and coconut milk, and spices.
crustaceans. Everywhere on Tapioca Small pancakes made
the coast, the guaiamu, a small, with tapioca, served stuffed with
blue-shelled crab with tasty sweet or savory fillings.
meat, is usually steamed and Xinxim de galinha Chicken
served up as an appetizer. sautéed in dendê oil with ginger,
Larger, soft-shelled crabs are dried shrimp, and cashew nuts.
also popular, served steamed Served with white rice and
and eaten whole, including Grated manioc root ready to be processed manioc flour.
the shell. Another crustacean into tapioca
Moqueca is a rich fish dish Ensopado is a seafood and Cocada is a sweet made with
made with coconut milk, dendê coconut milk stew made sugar and coconut. The darker
oil, cayenne pepper, and without dendê oil, making it variety is sweetened with dried
coriander (cilantro). lighter in flavor. sugar-cane juice.
BAHIA
The largest state in the Northeast, Bahia is known for its endless
stretches of stunning beach along the Atlantic coast. The idyllic
white-sand coast is dotted with laid-back resorts along its
length. Beyond the gorgeous beaches and plains, where most of
Bahia’s population lives today, lies the sertão, an arid semi-desert
partially covered in caatinga, a dry scrub forrest rich in plant and bird life.
When the Portuguese first arrived in Bahia was also the key point of entry for
Bahia in 1500, the entire 621-mile the thousands of slaves brought to Brazil
(1,000-km) coastline was covered in a from ports in Africa. The legacy of that
swathe of lush green Atlantic rainforest. transatlantic trade can be seen in Bahia’s
Today, only a few pockets of the cultural diversity. The state has Brazil’s
rainforest remain along the coast in highest percentage of Afro-Brazilian
isolated patches. Inland from the coast, residents. Bahia’s percussion-driven music,
the Portuguese successfully established the fast fight-dance known as capoeira,
the cultivation of sugar cane, and later and the spiritualist Yoruban Candomblé
cotton and cocoa in the Recôncavo, a religion all have their roots in Africa.
narrow, flat, well-watered plain, which In addition to these legacies, visitors
they called the agreste. to Bahia can experience one of Brazil’s
Bahia played a key role in the history of longest and most beautiful coastlines.
Brazil. Salvador, its capital, was founded in Fine beach resorts such as Praia do Forte
1549, and served for over two centuries as and Costa do Sauípe lie to the north of
the administrative and political center of Salvador. To the capital’s south, there are
colonial Brazil. The legacy of that period small villages such as Morro de São Paulo
is on display in Salvador’s colonial core, and Itacaré. Inland, Bahia provides unique
Pelourinho, a jewel of colonial Baroque hiking amid the mesas and valleys of
churches, cathedrals, and palaces. the Chapada Diamantina.
A view of the Parque Nacional Marinho dos Abrolhos, comprising an archipelago of five islands
The bright colors of Pelourinho’s Old Town
Exploring Bahia
Living up to its official motto, Sorria, você está na Bahia
(Smile, you’re in Bahia), Bahia offers a diverse range of
sights. The extensive coastline varies from fine Linha Verde
resorts to sleepy villages with stunning unspoilt beaches
Paçarrão
such as Trancoso. Salvador and the historic towns of the Sento Sé
Recôncavo provide fascinating glimpses into Brazil’s history.
The Chapada Diamantina is a highland region that
Barragem de
resembles the mesas of Arizona and New Mexico in Sobradinho Delfino
Southwest USA. Lençois, founded during the area’s
Ja
c
itre
ar
19th-century gold and diamond rush, boasts caverns,
Sal
Umburanas
waterfalls, and some of Brazil’s best hiking. Xique-Xique
Sights at a Glance Central

Capixaba
Irecê Morro do
Towns & Cities
Chapéu
1 Salvador pp188–99 Morpara
3 Santo Amaro
Ipupiara B A H I A
n t i na
4 Cachoeira Brotas de
Utinga
Ibotirama Macaúbas
5 São Félix
Wagner
ma
8 Itacaré Brasília
9 Ilhéus
Dia
LENÇÓIS
0 Porto Seguro
Paratinga PARQUE NACIONAL DE
q Trancoso
CHAPADA DIAMANTINA Iaetê
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Macaúbas
a
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ap
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Ch
National Parks Br
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w Parque Nacional Marinho de o
Fran
Riacho de
Abrolhos Santana
Ituaçu
r Parque Nacional de Chapada
São
Caetité
Diamantina pp208–9 Brumado
Carinhanha Guanambi
Areas of Natural Beauty Aracatu
Anagé
2 Ilha de Itaparica Pequen Caculé
rde
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6 Morro de São Paulo Ve vi
Ga
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7 Peninsula de Maraú
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Beaches & Resorts 0 kilometers 100
y Linha Verde p211
0 miles 100
Belo Horizonte,
Rio de Janeiro
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
State border
Peak
A white-sand beach resort near Itacaré, with palm trees lining the shore
BAHIA 187
Fortaleza
sco
nci
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Sã
Curaçá
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Macururé Glória BAHIA
Varg
Petrolina Paulo
Juàzeiro Afonso Recife
Formosa
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Uauá CANUDOS
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SÃO FÉLIX
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ILHA DE SALVADOR
Amargosa ITAPARICA
Maracás MORRO DE SÃO

PAULO
Jequié
Camamu PENINSULA
Manuel DE MARAÚ
Vitorino Marau
Ipiaú
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A Baiana under Mario Cravo’s towering
Poções gi A Cruz Caida
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Itambé Itapetinga
Par
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Itapebi Belmonte
Santa Cruz Cabrália Getting Around

Bahia is large, and the roads are mostly precarious.
PORTO SEGURO However, the Linha Verde (BA-099), which runs north
Guaratinga
TRANCOSO along the coast from Salvador to the border with
Jucur
uçu
Sergipe, provides easy, quick access to the beach
Itamaraju Monte Pascoal
Itanhém 1,758 ft (536 m) towns. South from Salvador, the BR-101 runs parallel
to the coast, about 37 miles (60 km) inland. Access
Prado to beach towns on the southern coast is via
Itanhém
Alcobaça secondary roads. The best way to get around
Ibiranhém is to fly to one of the major destinations, such as
Caravelas
Helvécia Salvador, Ilhéus, or Porto Seguro, and proceed by
bus to explore the surrounding regions. The main
Vitória, Mucuri
Rio de PARQUE NACIONAL
destination inland, the Chapada Diamantina, is a
Janeiro MARINHO DE ABROLHOS drive from Salvador on the BR-324, BR-116, and
BR-242 highways. Lençóis in the Chapada
Diamantina can be reached by road and plane.
1 Salvador
Founded by the Portuguese in 1549 on the protective shores
of the Baía de Todos os Santos (Bay of All Saints), Salvador is
Brazil’s fourth-largest city, after São Paulo, Rio de Janeiro, and
Belo Horizonte. Modern Salvador offers a fascinating blend
of old and new. In the colonial heart, Pelourinho, the
cobblestoned streets are lined with the restored 17th- and
18th-century palaces and Baroque churches. The city’s recent
growth has been eastwards along the beaches that face the
Atlantic. The city’s vibrant community of musicians draws
from the region’s African and Portuguese heritage, blending Azulejos in the cloisters of Igreja e
Convento de São Francisco
these into a unique Bahian sound.
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Sights at a Glance BEL

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Historic Buildings, Streets, Å

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1 Pelourinho pp190–91 Turístico ER
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7 Praça da Sé
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9 Elevador Lacerda
PREG
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0 Mercado Modelo
CON TORN
ON
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t Forte de Santo Antônio

DA C
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Churches, Cathedrals & ALTA

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Monasteries
LAD
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6 Igreja e Convento de São

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y Nosso Senhor do Bonfim
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Museums
D PA U DA
3 Museu Tempostal
4 Museu Afro-Brasileiro
PRAÇA
LA
q Museu de Arte Sacra CASTRO

ALVES
w Solar do Unhão
e Museu de Arte da Bahia
r Museu Rodin-Bahia
SALVADOR 189
Getting Around VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Most of the attractions in Salvador are concentrated in
Cidade Alta (Upper City), linked to the Cidade Baixa (Lower Practical Information
City) by a funicular railway and the Carlos Lacerda elevator. * 2,900,000. n Rua Francisco
The historic neighborhood of Pelourinho is located Muniz Barreto, Pelourinho, (71)
downtown, on top of a bluff overlooking the harbor. The 3321 2463. ( daily market at
main sights outside Pelourinho are within walking distance Mercado Modelo, Praça Cayru,
of the bustling waterfront. Bus services easily connect to (71) 3241 2893. _ Lavagem do
Bonfim (Jan), Carnaval (Feb/Mar).
every part of the city. Travelers coming from the south
∑ bahiatursa.ba.gov.br
can take BR-101 around the Baía de Todos os Santos and
connect to the BR-324. Those arriving from the north Transport
can follow the BR-009, called the Linha Verde. k ~ 22 miles (35 km) from city
center. @ Av Antônio Carlos
Magalhães 4362, Pernambués,
(71) 3450 3871. g Av Oscar
Pontes 1051, (71) 3254 1020.
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INHA Highway
DA B A R R O Q U
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Major road
Minor road
Railroad

1 Street-by-Street: Pelourinho
The crown jewel of Salvador is the restored historic center,
Pelourinho, which means whipping post. This originally
described only the small triangular plaza in the heart of the
city where slaves were publicly flogged. Located on a high
bluff overlooking the commercial city below, Pelourinho was
built by the Portuguese in the boom years of the 18th and
19th centuries as a residential and administrative center.
Abandoned for a greater part of the 20th century, Pelourinho
was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Today, 4 . Museu Afro-Brasileiro
visitors can explore its magnificent colonial houses, Baroque The large wood carvings of
the Candomblé deities by
churches, and museums. renowned artist Carybé are the
highlights of this museum of Afro-
Brazilian culture.
5 Catedral Basílica
Built in 1657, the renovated cathedral has a
cedar-wood altar, and two smaller side altars,
both covered in thin layers of gold
LA
R
G
O
D
7 Praça da Sé offers views
O
across the Baía de Todos

C
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os Santos
ZI
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Terreiro de Jesus, V
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one of the most beautiful E

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squares in Pelourinho, was

N
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laid out in 1549 by

O
governor Tome de Souza.
Pastel-hued buildings along the slope of Pelourinho
6 . Igreja e Convento de
Key São Francisco
Suggested route A silver chandelier weighing
176 lb (80 kg) hangs over
the ornate carvings
of this richly embellished church
SALVADOR 191
Bahia. n Rua Laranjeiras 12, (71)
3321 2133. Open 8:30am–9pm
daily. _ Terça da Benção (every
Tue). Igreja Nossa Senhora do
Rosário dos Pretos: Praça José de
Alencar s/n. Open 8am–5pm
Locator Map daily (Sat & Sun: to noon). 5
See Salvador map pp188–9 6pm Tue, 10am Sun. Igreja da
Ordem Terceira de São Francisco:
Igreja Nossa Senhora Rua Inácio Accioli. Tel (71) 3321
do Rosário dos Pretos 6968. Open 8:30am–5pm daily.
Built by slaves in the 5 8:30am Wed & Sun. &
18th century, the church
remains the center of Transport
@ Barra from Praça da Sé.
O
Afro-Brazilian traditions
IT
in Pelourinho.
BR
E
D
O
D
E
R
F
L
A
A
U
R
2 . Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado

S
AT TOS
U
The lovely café inside Foundation House, which is

E
D
dedicated to the life of one of Brazil’s most famous

E
authors, is decorated with hundreds of book jackets

D
DE M
from Amado’s novels published around the world.

O
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Museu Abelardo Rodrigues

A
S
Solar do Ferrão
One of Brazil’s largest private
collections of sacred art is
housed here.
Igreja da Ordem Terceira

de São Francisco
The fine 18th-century
sandstone façade of
this church was
rediscovered only in the
1930s. Craftsmen chipped
away at plaster for nine
years to reveal this
marvelous building.
2 Fundação Casa
de Jorge Amado
Largo do Pelourinho s/n. Tel (71)
3321 0070. Open 10am–6pm Mon–
Fri, 10am–4pm Sat. ∑ jorgeamado.
org.br
Although Brazilian author Jorge
Amado (1912–2001) never lived
in Pelourinho, many of his
beloved novels were set in this
neighborhood (see p204).
Opened in 1987, the Casa de
Jorge Amado is a small museum
housed in a pretty blue colonial Antique postcard displayed at the Museu Tempostal
building located at the top end
of Largo do Pelourinho. It is one has developed and grown. 5 Catedral Basílica
of the main monuments dedi- Some cards are enlarged to Praça XV de Novembro, Terreiro de
cated to Bahia’s most famous give visitors a better view of Jesus s/n. Tel (71) 3321 4573.
author. Its four floors comprise the photographic details. A Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm
the entire archive of his work smaller exhibit of belle époque Sun. 5 11am–noon Sun; Baroque
and include a research center. postcards showcases some concert held every Sun at 11am. &
The collection on display elaborate samples of postcard
consists mostly of covers of his “art,” some adorned with Salvador’s main cathedral, built
books and personal belongings embroidery, others painted between 1657 and 1672, is
that tell the story of his life. like aquarelles. considered to be one of the
A mural on the ground floor richest examples of Portuguese
shows the languages into which Baroque architecture. The
his works have been translated – 4 Museu Afro- cathedral’s façade is made of
over 49 in total. Brasileiro Portuguese lioz, a type of
limestone. The interior walls and
Praça XV de Novembro, Terreiro de
Jesus s/n. Tel (71) 3283 5540. tall pillars are also covered with
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. & the pale-colored stone, giving
the church a bright and
This small museum in the spacious feel.
former Faculty of Medicine The vaulted ceiling of the
building houses a collection main nave is made from wood.
of photographs, artwork, and The decorations are carved in
artifacts all related to the African relief and stand out from the
diaspora in Brazil. The main ceiling with an almost three-
exhibit displays objects and dimensional effect. The main
crafts from the original African altar and two smaller side altars
cultures of regions such as are also carved out of wood
Covers of Amado’s books exhibited at Angola and Nigeria where and covered in gold leaf.
Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado Brazil-bound slaves were Dedicated to St. Francis, the
captured. The highlight of the altar contains a silver-plated
collection is the 27 life-sized statue of Nossa Senhora das
3 Museu Tempostal wood carvings of the orixás Maravilhas (Our Lady of
Rua Gregorio de Matos 33,
(see p181) by Bahian Miracles), which is said
Pelourinho. Tel (71) 3117 6383. artist Carybé (1911– to have inspired Father
Open noon–6pm Tue–Fri, 97), depicting their Antônio Vieira, a
noon–5pm Sat & Sun. & weapons and regalia, 17th-century Jesuit
together with the animals priest who fought
Housed in a beautiful colonial or domain over which against the enslavement
building in the heart of they are thought to rule. of indigenous people.
Pelourinho, this museum Yemanjá, Goddess of His fiery, anti-slavery
displays only a fraction of the Sea, is shown with sermons did not sit well
founder Antônio Marcelino’s a fish and seashells with the Inquisition, who
collection of 30,000 postcards and the mirrors and subsequently ordered his
and photographs. Most date trinkets offered to her arrest. The former Jesuit
from the 19th and 20th by supplicants; the library now holds a
centuries. Antique postcards warrior Ogun is Yansã, Candomblé Goddess of small museum of
comprising the main display shown with his Tempests, at Museu religious art. The
tell the history of Salvador as it sword and armor. Afro-Brasileiro collection includes
SALVADOR 193
silver and gold religious artifacts so people can linger and enjoy the Palácio Rio Branco was
such as chalices and candle- the capoeira presentations or rededicated in 1986 as a cultural
holders. The most modern other cultural events often held foundation, the Centro Memoria
piece in the cathedral is the in the square. da Bahia. The former reception
powerful German organ with There is a lookout point, the hall on the ground floor now
more than 500 pipes, 18 Belvedere, on the north side of tells the history of Bahia’s 40
registers, and two keyboards. the square which provides a governors through paintings,
beautiful view of the Lower City historic documents, and their
and the Baía de Todos os Santos personal belongings.
(Bay of All Saints). The fine interior is a blend
of Rococo plasterwork and
frescoes. Of particular note
8 Palácio Rio are the big dome and the
Branco magnificent views from the
Praça Tomé de Sousa s/n. Tel (71)
belvedere in the wing looking
3116 6928. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, onto the sea, as well as the iron
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. and crystal stairway and a
sculpture representing Tomé
The original Palácio Rio Branco de Souza.
has nothing in common with
the building that currently goes
by that name. The first palace
was built on this site in 1549 to
Altar of Catedral Basílica, the main house Bahia’s first governor,
cathedral of Salvador Tomé de Sousa. The Portuguese
queen and later the prince
regent resided in this palace
6 Igreja e Convento temporarily in 1808, when the
de São Francisco entire Portuguese court
See pp194–5.
relocated to Rio de Janeiro in
order to escape Napoleon’s
invasion of Portugal (see p56).
The building survived until 1900,
7 Praça da Sé when the whole structure was
leveled and then rebuilt from
Pelourinho’s Praça da Sé blends scratch in Renaissance style.
the modern with the historic. A fire in 1912 forced another
The square is a transition point major overhaul by the Italian
between the Terreiro de Jesus architect Júlio Conti, giving the
and the Praça Tomé de Sousa. building the eclectic look it still Art Deco Elevador Lacerda with market
Extensive renovations have has today. Used as an official stalls below
added fountains and benches, government building until 1979,
9 Elevador Lacerda
Praça Tomé de Sousa s/n (Upper City);
Praça Visconde Cairu (Lower City).
Open 6am–11pm. & 7
Built by merchant Antônio

Francisco de Lacerda in
1873 from the original Jesuit-
installed manual pulley, the
famous Elevador Lacerda
connects Salvador’s Upper
and Lower cities.
The Elevador Lacerda is a
popular site in Salvador, used by
more than 30,000 people daily.
The elevator’s current Art Deco
look dates from a 1930s
restoration. Four elevators make
the 236-ft (72-m) trip up vertical
shafts in just 30 seconds, where
the view across the bay on a
Preparations for a cultural show outside Palácio Rio Branco clear day is simply stunning.
6 Igreja e Convento de São Francisco

The complex of the Church and Convent of St. Francis, which
was constructed between 1708 and 1750, is one of Brazil’s
most impressive Baroque monuments. The convent’s church
stands out for its rich and opulent interior. The inner walls and
the ceiling are largely covered in gold leaf. The main altar and
the large side altars are magnificently carved out of wood and
in typical Baroque style, ornately decorated with angels, birds,
mermaids, fruits, and leaves. An enormous silver chandelier
hangs above intricate wooden carvings, and hand-painted
blue-and-white Portuguese tiles.
. Franciscan Shield
Featuring the crossed forearms
of Jesus and St. Francis, the shield
represents the bond between
the two.
São Pedro de Alcântara

The altar of São Pedro de
Alcântara, carved by Brazilian
artist Manuel Inácio da Costa,
is a particularly fine example
of Brazilian Baroque.
Façade
The church façade dominates
the Largo de São Francisco with
imposing twin bell towers.
Oil Painting of
KEY St. Francis
The oil painting
1 Doors and windows in bright depicting an event in
tones adorn the outer walls of the life of St. Francis in
the church. the church entryway
2 Detailing of pure gold leaf is one of the classic
decorates the church interior. examples of Brazilian
Baroque Illusionism.
SALVADOR 195
. Main Altar VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

A statue of Jesus on the cross
with St. Francis by his side
graces the main altar. The blue-
Largo Cruzeiro de São Francisco,
and-white tiles behind the main
Praça Anchieta, Pelourinho.
altar tell the life story of the
Tel (71) 3322 6430.
saint. The gold-and-white motif
is offset by dark jacaranda
10am–3pm Sun. & 8 7
wood hand railings.
Igreja Terceira Ordem de São
Francisco: Rua Inácio Accioli.
Cloisters
These secluded interior arcades are where
the monks of St. Francis would gather for
prayer or quiet contemplation.
Black Saint, Saint

Benedict
Two of the side
altars are dedicated
to black saints such
as Santa Efigênia, an
Ethiopian princess,
and São Bento, the
son of African slaves.
Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Francisco

The ornately carved and
detailed sandstone façade of
the church of the Third Order
of St. Francis next door is the
only one of its kind in Brazil.
. Azulejos The façade remained hidden
Brought over from for many years behind a layer
Portugal in 1743, of plaster, only to be
the decorative tiles uncovered accidentally when
are based on the wiring was being installed in
etchings by Flemish the 1930s. The church also
painter Otto van has a museum and a room Soapstone exterior of
Veen in his book of Franciscan tombs. the church
of moral emblems.
Pretty lace hammocks displayed in the stalls outside the Mercado Modelo
0 Mercado Modelo candlesticks, chalices, censors, of the 17th century – a chapel,

Praça Visconde de Cairu, Comércio,
and other artifacts from the a big house with slave quarters
Cidade Baixa. Tel (71) 3241 2893. 16th to 19th centuries. on the lower floor, and a large
Open 9am–7pm Mon–Sat, mill where cane was
9am–2pm Sun. transformed into sugar.
During the sugar boom of
The Mercado Modelo was built the 18th century, the owners
in 1861 as a customs building. added a courtyard fountain
The square behind the market, and a full-size church, Nossa
now used by capoeiristas Senhora da Coneição. After the
(see p203), was where boats sugar trade collapsed in the
would dock to unload their 19th century, the Solar was
merchandise for inspection. used variously as a factory, a
The building was transformed warehouse, and naval barracks.
into an indoor craft market in Finally, in the 1940s it was
1971, and renovated after a designated a National Historic
major fire in 1984. Nowadays, Monument and chosen as the
the Mercado’s two floors house site for the Museu de Arte
259 stalls that offer a variety of Moderna. A series of
northeastern arts and crafts. The Museu de Arte Sacra, housed in a renovations restored the
Popular items include naive 17th-century convent buildings to their former glory,
art paintings of Pelourinho, while upgrading the facilities
berimbaus (a stringed to include eight exhibit rooms,
instrument), embroidered w Solar do Unhão a theater, and a library.
lace tablecloths, hammocks, Av do Contorno s/n. Tel (71) 3117
The complex also houses an
colorful hats, spices, and sweets. 6132. Museu de Arte Moderna: excellent restaurant, besides
Open 1–7pm Tue–Fri, 2–7pm Sat & displaying paintings, etchings,
Sun. Tel (71) 3117 6132. and sculptures by some of
q Museu de Arte Brazil’s best-known modern
Sacra A renovated colonial sugar mill, artists. In the evenings, it hosts
Rua do Sodré 276. Cidade Alta.
the Solar do Unhão beautifully a presentation of traditional
Tel (71) 3283 5600. blends the old and the new. Bahian dance and folklore, held
Open 11:30am–5:30pm Mon–Fri. & The original design is typical in the former slave quarters.
One of Brazil’s best collections

of religious art can be found
in this museum, which is
housed in a former Carmelite
convent. The serene and
beautiful structure was built
between 1667 and 1697, and
serves as the perfect backdrop
for the varied exhibits, which
include statues, icons,
paintings, oratorios (portable
altars), and numerous finely
wrought silver crosses, Exterior of the Solar do Unhão, once a colonial sugar mill
SALVADOR 197
e Museu de Arte
da Bahia
Av 7 de Setembro 2340, Vitória.
Tel (71) 3117 6903. Open 2–7pm Tue–
Sun. &
The Museu de Arte da Bahia
offers a glimpse of the opulent
lifestyle of Salvador’s colonial
elite. The collection includes
paintings, azulejos, furniture,
silver ware, glass, china, and
crystal used by the local ruling
families during the 18th, 19th,
and early 20th centuries.
The south wing holds land- The Forte de Santo Antônio, topped by the lighthouse
scape paintings by such artists
as José Joaquim da Rocha. tForte de Santo originally built in 1698, and is
Antônio still used by boats navigating
the entrance to the bay.
r Museu Rodin- Praça Almirante Tamandaré, Largo do Inside the fort, the Museu
Farol s/n, Barra. Tel (71) 3264 3296.
Bahia Open 8:30am–7pm Tue–Sun. &
Hidrográfico (Museum of
Rua Graca 284. Tel (71) 3117
Hydrography) shows historic
6910. Open 1–7pm Tue–Fri, One of Salvador’s best-known navigation instruments and a
2–7pm Sat & Sun. landmarks, the Forte Santo variety of charts. There is also a
Antônio was erected in 1535. notable collection of coins and
This small museum, in a 19th- The fort was strengthened in China from a Portuguese
century mansion near Barra, the early 17th century, in galleon that foundered in 1668,
holds four original Rodin sculp- response to Dutch attacks on off Rio Vermelho beach.
tures and 62 models made by the coast, and upgraded to its The fort also boasts a café
Rodin prior to construction of present star shape at the with an outdoor terrace
the final pieces. Among them beginning of the 18th century. offering sweeping views of
are The Kiss and The Thinker. A lighthouse atop the fort was Salvador’s skyline.
Carnaval in Salvador
Salvador’s signature event, the Carnaval, is celebrated during February or March. The centerpiece is
the trio elétrico, a giant flatbed truck carrying a massive array of speakers, topped by a rectangular
stage. The tradition was started in the 1950s with Dodó and Osmar, two local musicians who took
their music to the street on top of a 1929 Ford. Running out from behind the trio elétrico truck, a
large roped-off area serves as a movable dance floor. Access to this area is restricted to those in an
abadá, or uniform-style tank top. Revelers outside the roped-off area are called pipoca, or popcorn,
as they pop up everywhere.
Blocos (neighborhood groups) parade along one of three routes – Pelourinho, mostly for smaller and
more traditional groups; Campo Grande, which runs through the narrow streets of downtown Salvador;
and Ondina, which goes through the beachside neighborhoods of Barra and Ondina. Performers at the
Carnaval include major Brazilian artists
such as Daniela Mercury, Caetano Veloso,
Gilberto Gil, Carlinhos Brown, and popular
groups such as Olodum, Ara Ketu, and
Chiclete com Banana. In addition to these
name-brand performers, there are Afro-
Brazilian blocos such as Ilê Aye, which
only allows people of black heritage in
their parade. The queen of the Carnaval is
Ivete Sangalo, a noted exponent of axé,
Bahia’s unique rhythm that combines
pop with samba and Afro-Brazilian beats.
The grand finale occurs in the wee
hours of Ash Wednesday. All the various
blocos make their way to Praça Castro
Alves for the Encontro dos Trios, a last
late-night jam that marks the closure
Costumed dancers at the Salvador Carnaval of the Carnaval.
Candomblé religion (see p181).

On Fridays, worshippers dress
in white and dedicate their
prayers to Oxalá. On other days,
in a small chapel just to the
right of the main altar, one
can visit the Sala dos Milagres
(Chamber of Miracles). Believers
come here to offer items made
of wax, wood, or even gold.
The item represents a miracle
that has been bestowed upon
Exquisite Portuguese azulejo (tile work) at Nosso Senhor do Bonfim them. The room is packed with
replicas of hearts, lungs, livers,
y Nosso Senhor north of Pelourinho. The church and breasts, as well as babies,
do Bonfim was built between 1746 and houses, and even cars.
1754 by Captain Rodrigues de Outside, visitors are besieged
Largo do Bonfim s/n. Tel (71) 3316 Faria in fulfilment of a pledge with offers of fitas, little colored
2196. Open 7am–6pm daily (Mon: he made in the midst of a fierce ribbons purchased as a good
from 9am; Fri & Sun: from 6am).
Atlantic storm. While the hilltop luck charm. The ribbon is meant
5 7am, 8am, 5pm Tue–Sun.
setting is picturesque, what sets to be tied around the wrist with
Nosso Senhor do Bonfim (Our the church apart is not its three knots, and a wish is made
Lord of Good Success) stands architecture but the role it plays for each knot. The ribbon is then
atop a small hill on the Bonfim in Bahia’s Afro-Brazilian religion. worn until it falls off in order for
Peninsula, a strip of land jutting The church is dedicated to God the wishes to be granted.
out into the Baía de Todos os the Father, but it also honors The impressive 16th-century
Santos about 6 miles (10 km) Oxalá, the supreme deity in the Forte de São Felipe is located
Salvador’s Atlantic Coast

The tip of Porto da Barra is the beginning of a string of
ocean beaches. The best beaches for swimming and
sunbathing are close to the southern edge of the city. The
best beach close to the city center is Porto do Barra. Farther
out, Amaralina’s acarajé (see p183) kiosks are popular on
weekends. Itapoã is known for its calm waters and reefs
that form natural pools at low tide.
Ondina’s beautiful beach is lined

with many of Salvador’s biggest
and best hotels that look out over
the foamy waves.
Rio Vermelho is the starting

point of a procession
honoring Yemanjá (see p45).
Porto da Barra is the

Historic Center
ALDI
closest swimming
beach to Salvador’s
RIB
Porto da BARRA R
historic center. The V
A
Barra IO
A
A.
A. G
AV O C E Â JUN CA
lighthouse here is a NI ES R IO
CA
PARQUE S MAG
Ã
AV
great place from LH

Praia do Ondina Rio DA CIDADE
A
G
AL
A
which to watch a Farol da Barra Vermelho M
HÃ
Praia de J. JOVENTINO
ES
spectacular sunset Ondina SANTA SILVA

AV
over calm waters. Praia do CRUZ

Rio Vermelho PITUBA
Amaralina
Praia de Praia da
Amaralina Pituba
SALVADOR 199
close to the church, in the

neighborhood of Boa Viagem.
Just below the fort is the
popular beach, Praia de Boa
Viagem, which is usually
bustling with locals and lined
with busy stalls selling a
variety of trinkets and snacks
on weekends.
P Forte de São Felipe

Rua Rita Durão s/n, Monte Serrat,
Boa Viagem. Tel (71) 3313 7339. A group of colorfully dressed women during Lavagem do Bonfim
Open 8am–noon daily. &
Lavagem do Bonfim
Salvador is home to some of the largest celebrations of the
Candomblé religion. One event that occurs each year at the Nosso
Senhor do Bonfim is the Lavagem do Bonfim (Washing Ceremony),
which takes place on the third Thursday of January. A procession of
thousands of devotees makes its way from Salvador city center to
the church. Once the procession has reached the church, women in
traditional white lace dresses wash the church steps with perfumed
water in honor of Oxalá. The tradition is said to stem from the days
when the slaves were not allowed inside the church and had to
worship outside. The Catholic church does not entirely approve of
Colorful ribbons on the railing outside the ceremony, and keeps its doors shut throughout the festival.
Nosso Senhor do Bonfim
Bahia. n on the corner of Rua
João de Deus & Laranjeiras,
Pelourinho.
Tel (71) 3321 2463.
∑ bahiatursa.ba.gov.br
_ Festa de Yemanjá (Feb).
0 km 1
Transport
0 miles 1
@ Barra from Praça da Sé.
Amaralina, subject to large waves and
strong winds, is an excellent beach for
surfing and boardsailing. Baianas dressed in
traditional garb sell acarajé at the numerous
kiosks lining the shore.
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de Alá Itapuã features turquoise

Jardim de Alá, a seaside park waters and reefs teeming
with grassy slopes descending
with marine life. Poet and
Praia Jardim to the sea, has a coconut
de Alá tree plantation. lyricist Vinícius de Moraes
(see p35) immortalized the
place in a popular song.

Ilha de Itaparica, one of the tropical islands in the Baía de Todos os Santos
2 Ilha de Itaparica tobacco and, more signicantly, of the Bembé do Mercado.

* 18,000. g from Salvador. ® sugar cane. Until the crash of During this time, offerings are
Zimbo Tropical, (71) 3638 1148. the sugar economy in the 19th made to Yemanjá, Goddess of
century, Santo Amaro remained the Sea, to celebrate freedom
The largest island in the Baía the focus of Recôncavo’s sugar of religion. In the main square in
de Todos os Santos (Bay of All industry. Dilapidated mansions front of the town market, local
Saints), with summerhouses of the erstwhile sugar barons groups put on capoeira perform-
lining its shore, Itaparica is a can still be seen along the old ances. Theater per formances of
popular weekend refuge for streets. Nowadays, this pieces, such as Nego Fugido
the residents of Salvador. unpretentious town is known (Runaway Slave), recount the
Located on the northern tip for its paper industry. It is also story of slaves fleeing their
of the island, the main city is famous as the hometown of masters to join quilombos,
guarded by the Forte de São Caetano Veloso and Maria independent communities
Lourenço, which was built by Bethânia, two of Brazil’s most set up by runaway slaves.
the Dutch in 1711. Among the popular singers. In an effort to keep folkloric
island’s main attractions are Many of the slaves, who were traditions alive, the Afro-
some historic buildings, brought from Africa to work on Brazilian community also
including the 1622 Nossa plantations, remained in the organizes presentations of the
Senhora da Piedade (Chapel Recôncavo after slavery was lesser-known maculelê sword
of Our Lady of Piety) and the abolished in 1888. The region dance, an African fight-dance,
1610 Igreja de São Lourenço. still has a very high percentage and samba de roda dances
The island is connected to of Afro-Brazilian residents, and performed by women.
the mainland by a bridge at its Santo Amaro plays a key role
narrow southern tip. The Praia in preserving their distinct
da Penha, 10 miles (6 km) traditions. Every year, the city 4 Cachoeira
south, is a lovely beach with commemorates the abolition * 30,000. @ n Praça da
views of Salvador. The region’s of slavery with a five-day festival Aclamação 4. _ Festa da Boa Morte
biggest resort, Club Med, lies on (Aug 13–15).
the Praia da Conceição, 12 miles
(19 km) south of town. Historically more powerful than
the other two main towns in
the Recôncavo – Santo Amaro
3 Santo Amaro and São Félix – Cachoeira was
* 60,000. @ from Salvador.
also the most prominent. Its
_ Bembé do Mercado (May 13–18). strategic location, between the
Baía de Todos os Santos and
The laid-back town of Santo the roads leading inland, made
Amaro lies in the Recôncavo, it an important crossroads
the fertile zone at the top end between Salvador and the
of the Baía de Todos os Santos, rest of the state.
which has formed the The city once had a busy river
backbone of Salvador’s colonial port on the Paraguaçu. Boats
economy for almost 300 years. sailed upstream from Salvador
The region’s high humidity, to load up with sugar and
abundant rainfall, and rich soils Lush hillsides in the Recôncavo, covered tobacco produced in the
were conducive to growing with sugar cane Recôncavo region. The town’s
BAHIA 201
cigar factory, founded in

1873 by German cigar-maker
Gerhard Dannemann. Blessed
by optimum conditions for
growing and processing
tobacco, the Dannemann
factory quickly became one
of the region’s finest cigar
producers. The region still
produces Dannemann cigars,
but the original factory has
now been converted into a
Cobblestoned streets lined with colorful houses in Cachoeira cultural center, known as the
Centro Cultural Dannemann.
privileged position as a 5 São Félix A small exhibit of old
commercial center is reflected @ from Cachoeira. machinery tells the story of
in its imposing colonial the early factory days. On
architecture. However, with Regarded as the twin of weekdays, it is possible to
the creation of road access to Cachoeira, São Félix lies watch the factory workers
Salvador, Cachoeira lost its key just across the Rio Paraguaçu, rolling cigars.
position and its port gradually on a hillside overlooking the
faded away. river. The railway bridge P Centro Cultural Dannemann
In the old city center, many of connecting the two towns Av Salvador Pinto 29. Tel (75) 3438 3716.
the city’s churches and wealthy was commissioned by Dom Open 8am–noon & 1–5pm Tue–Sat.
merchants’ houses are still Pedro II, and built by British
standing, although in a engineers in 1895. Cars,
dilapidated condition. trains, and foot traffic
The city has, however, all share the rickety
begun to renovate and railway bridge.
preserve its historic Several times a day,
center. As a cultural hub São Félix comes to a
of the Recôncavo region standstill as freight trains
Cachoeira celebrates the roll right through the
Festa da Boa Morte, one town center.
of the most important Larger in size, though
features of the not as impressive as
Candomblé religion. Coronas cigar Cachoeira, São Félix used
Today, the city is as much box, São Félix to earn a living
celebrated for its robust in its own right as a
wood-sculpting tradition as producer of fine charutos
for its production of the best (cigars). The heart of this Market scene in São Félix, with a vendor
tobacco in Brazil. industry was the Dannemann selling fruit
Festa da Boa Morte

Celebrated from August 13 to 15, the Festa da Boa Morte
(Festival of the Good Death) is one of the most important
events of Candomblé (see p39), a blend of African spirituality
and Catholicism. The ceremonies are held by members of
the Sisterhood of the Good Death, a religious and self-help
organization composed entirely of women of African descent.
The festival honors both the iyás (female spirits of the dead) and
the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. A Catholic mass is followed
by a large procession through the historic streets of Cachoeira.
The women come dressed in multilayered lace skirts and
blouses, white turbans, and traditional accessories in honor of
various orixás (deities). At the head of the procession, they carry
a statue of the Virgin Mary. At the end, the women prepare an
all-white meal of rice, fish, potatoes, onions, and other white-
colored foods. Samba de roda, a dance based on the African
circle dances, marks the end of the ceremonies. Women take
Members of the Sisterhood of the Good Death turns dancing in the circle to the pounding rhythm of the drums.
in festive regalia Onlookers may also be called on to dance.
7 Peninsula de
Maraú
g from Itacaré or Camamu to Barra
Grande. n Barra Grande, (75) 3258
9051. ∑ barragrande.net
The main destination at the
northern tip of the Peninsula
de Maraú is Barra Grande,
a delightful, remote fishing
village. Beautiful beaches are
scattered along the entire
length of the peninsula, but
it is difficult to get around
without a car. Four-wheel
The ruins of Fortaleza do Tapirando in Morro de São Paulo drives ferry passengers from
pousadas to various beaches
6 Morro de São season, there are parties every around the peninsula.
Paulo night and the beaches are Alternatively, the 31-mile
packed. Most nights start (50-km) walk across various
* 50,000. ~ from Salvador. g from around midnight, when palm-fringed beaches along
Salvador. n (75) 3652 1104. Primeira beach fills with locals the coastline is spectacular.
∑ morrodesaopaulo.com.br
and visitors, who dance axé and Most of the peninsula is
Although within easy reach of drink fruity cocktails. As you covered in native Mata Atlântica
Salvador, the coast immediately move away from the village, rainforest, which has been
south of the state capital does the beaches get wider and relatively well preserved. The
not have many large, developed less developed. Segunda Baía de Camamu, one of Brazil’s
tourist areas, apart from and Terceira beaches feature largest bays, separates the
Morro de São Paulo. Now a progressively more scattered peninsula from the mainland.
picturesque beach destination, pousadas. From Quarta beach The long dirt road heading
Morro de São Paulo, on the onwards, the coast remains down the peninsula (often
northern tip of Ilha da Tinharé, blissfully undeveloped, offering impassable after rains) leads to
once played a key role in the long stretches of white sand some of the best beaches facing
coastal defences of Bahia. In backed by waving groves of the open ocean. Praia Taipús
1630, Governor General Diego coconut palms. de Fora, 4 miles (7 km) south
Luiz de Oliveira ordered of Barra Grande, is considered
Fortaleza do Tapirando to be Environs one of Brazil’s most beautiful
strategically built here where Just south of Morro, Ilha de beaches. At low tide, the
it could control the Itaparica Boipeba offers a quiet, idyllic coral reefs form a clear, natural
channel, one of the main island getaway, with pristine, pool, perfect for snorkeling
approaches to Salvador. The deserted beaches. Ponta de and swimming.
ruins of the fort have been Castelhanos is especially There are also a handful of
designated a National Heritage known for diving. Travelers small fishing villages scattered
Site. The view of the sunset from can get here via boat from along the coast. Local fisher-
the fort’s crumbling walls is Morro de São Paulo. Visitors men offer excursions to Lagoa
spectacular, and dolphin coming from Salvador can drive Azul (Blue Lagoon), scenic view
sightings are quite common. to Valença, then take a boat points, bay islands, and down
Still accessible only by boat (see www.ilhaboipeba.org.br). the Rio Maraú.
or plane, Morro maintains
much of its original charm.
No cars are allowed in the
village. Lined with pousadas,
boutiques, and restaurants, the
“streets” are made of sand, and
wheelbarrows and bicycles
are the primary means of
transportation. In the evenings,
the village square transforms
into a craft market, the small
stands often lit only by
candlelight, making for a very
cozy atmosphere. Morro’s
beaches are famous in Brazil
for their parties. During high Peninsula de Maraú, overlooking the Baía de Camamu
BAHIA 203
Capoeira
Bahia, the birthplace of capoeira, offers visitors plenty of opportunities to see this
dazzling and mesmerizing mixture of dance, gymnastics, and martial arts. Capoeira was
developed by African slaves within Brazil as a form of self-defense against their brutal
slave masters. The music was added as a disguise. Many slaves successfully escaped and
formed communities in the interior called quilombos (see p219). Outlawed in 1890 and
forced underground, the sport made a slow comeback over the next few decades as
white Brazilians began to accept and celebrate the African aspects of Brazil’s culture.
Capoeira was fully rehabilitated in the 1930s, when President Vargas, calling it “the only
true Brazilian sport,” invited one of the most renowned capoeiristas of the day, Mestre
Bimba, to perform in the presidential palace. Today, Mestre Bimba’s school in Pelourinho
is run by his son, Mestre Nenel.
Berimbau, a single-string instrument that produces African drums are the additional
a metallic droning sound, sets the capoeira beat. instruments used in capoeira.
The roda, or the circle in which capoeria is always performed, is created by participants who sit or
stand and clap to the beat of a single-stringed berimbau. The people who form the roda will take turns,
usually with no predefined order, to go inside the circle and participate.
Capoeira Moves
Capoeiristas exhibit incredible muscle control, strength, and
flexibility as they carry out acrobatic moves, while keeping their
opponent at bay. The capoeira moves are carried out at lightning
speed, but with a dance-like fluidity, where each move is a
combination of skill, balance, and beauty.
Escorpião, or the scorpion Au malandro starts like a The esquiva (escape), a low
move, is a combination of back cartwheel, but only one hand ducking move, is a very
flips and cartwheels. Both goes down while the opposite common one since
participants try to create a leg kicks up in the air in a swift, capoeiristas primarily attack
beautiful performance. fluid move. with kicks and sweeps.
books, Gabriela, Clove and

Cinnamon, takes place in the
city’s historic core at the height
of the 1920s cocoa boom.
Today, visitors can stroll along
the promenades and see the
famous Bar Vesúvio and Bataclã
Cabaret that feature in his
novel. The author’s childhood
home has been opened to
visitors as the Casa de Cultura
Jorge Amado.
Among the city’s other sights
The beautiful and unspoiled Prainha beach in Itacaré is the 16th-century Igreja de
São Jorge. There are several fine
8 Itacaré follows the coastline and allows beaches to the north and south
* 24,000. ~ Ilhéus. @ n Rua access to a string of beautiful, of town and Cururupe, near the
João de Souza, Centro, (73) 3251 2329. secluded beaches, many of village of Olivença, is a favorite.
∑ itacare.com which have little or no facilities.
E Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado
The small fishing town of Itacaré Rua Jorge Amado 21. Tel (73) 3231
is part of Brazil’s famous 9 Ilhéus 7531. Open 9am–noon, 2–6pm Mon–
Discovery Coast. Portuguese Fri, 9am–1pm Sat. &
* 220,000. ~ @ n Setur, (73)
explorer Pedro Álvares Cabral E Igreja de São Jorge
3634 6008. ∑ brasilheus.com.br
(see p52), who was the first Praça Rui Barbosa. Open irregular hrs.
European to officially “discover” When farmers began growing
Brazil, landed in Porto Seguro, cocoa trees imported from the
close to Itacaré, in 1500. upper Amazon basin in the
Large areas of protected early 20th century, Ilhéus, the
Atlantic rainforest, which were largest city on Bahia’s southern
given World Heritage status by coast, established itself as a
UNESCO in 1999, meet the sea major cocoa-growing region.
along the coast of Itacaré. A disaster of epic proportions
Relatively isolated, the town is struck in 1989, when a parasite
favored by nature lovers. Itacaré infected most of the plantations
is also known for its relaxed and destroyed the entire crop.
lifestyle and typical Afro- The industry has yet to recover,
Brazilian culture. but several of the old planta-
The beaches have enormous tions have been converted
waves, making it a popular into museums.
surfing destination. Most are Ilhéus is best known as the
surrounded by lush forest and setting for several novels by
can only be accessed on foot. Bahia’s most beloved author, Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado, childhood
Prainha, Itacaré’s main attraction, Jorge Amado. One of his best home of the famed author
is considered to be one of Brazil’s
most beautiful beaches, and is
accessible only by a trail through Jorge Amado (1912–2001)
the rainforest from Ribeira beach, The son of a cocoa plantation owner, Jorge Amado was
just south of town. born near Ilhéus in 1912. In 1931, Amado moved to Rio to
study law, but his heart was already given
Environs to literature. That very year, he published
Known as the Estrada Parque his first novel, O País do Carnaval. He based
(the Park Drive), the road that his 1958 novel, Gabriela, Clove and
connects Itacaré to Ilhéus Cinnamon, on the warring cocoa barons
traverses a well-preserved of his native Ilhéus, but infused it with a
strand of Atlantic rainforest. sense of humor that won him acclaim in
Care has been taken not to Brazil and around the world. Dona Flor and
disrupt the ecosystem and to her Two Husbands (1966), Tieta do Agreste
protect animals crossing the (1977), and Gabriela, Clove and Cinnamon
highway. In places, nets have were later turned into popular and
been strung from tree to tree successful films. Armado published 21
to provide safe passage for Life-like statue of Jorge novels, which were translated into 49
monkeys crossing the road. Amado, Ilhéus languages. He died in 2001.
The 49-mile (80-km) drive
BAHIA 205
w Parque Nacional
Marinho de
Abrolhos
g n Ibama, Praia do Kitongo,
Caravelas, (73) 3297 1111.
∑ abrolhos.net
Remote and uninhabited,

the archipelago of Abrolhos,
discovered by Amerigo
Vespucci in 1503, offers
excellent opportunities for
viewing wildlife. The five islands
are located off the coast of
Main square and the Matriz Nossa Senhora da Pena, Porto Seguro southern Bahia. In 1983, the
islands, together with 351 sq
0 Porto Seguro as distances are long and the miles (909 sq km) of
* 140,000. ~ @ n Av Portugal,
coastal highways are in a state surrounding ocean, were
Passarela do Alcool, Centro, (73) 3288 of disrepair. declared a National Marine Park,
3708. ∑ portosegurotur.com the first such park in Brazil.
E Museu de Porto Seguro Known for its rare formations of
Porto Seguro (Safe Port) is Praça Pero Campos Tourinho s/n. south Atlantic coral, the park
officially recognized as the site Tel (73) 3288 5182. teems with sea turtles, squid,
of the first Portuguese landing Open 9am–5pm daily. and a rich assortment of fish. A
in 1500, where Pedro Cabral variety of bird species come to
and his fleet arrived and said feed and lay eggs on the islands,
mass on Brazilian soil. The city’s q Trancoso which are otherwise dry and
small historic center (Cidade ~ Porto Seguro, then bus. @
covered in grasslands. The best
Histórica) has several stately ∑ trancosobahia.com.br time for spotting humpback
old buildings, including the whales is between July and
Matriz Nossa Senhora da Though just a short drive from November, when the
Pena, built in 1535. Its altar Porto Seguro, Trancoso has a archipelago becomes a calving
has an image of Saint Francis sense of tranquility that sets it ground for them.
of Assisi, the first religious apart from the nearby party Only one of the five islands,
statue to be brought to Brazil town. Set on a high bluff over- Siriba, can actually be visited.
in 1503. On the same square, looking the ocean, the town Guided tours to the marine park
the former jail built in 1772 is center, or quadrado, is a long, should only be made with an
home to the Museu de Porto grassy space, anchored by a operator accredited by Brazil’s
Seguro, which holds a small church and framed by environmental agency, IBAMA.
collection describing the early houses, many of which have Visitors can also book a day or
colonization of the region. turned their gardens into taste- overnight excursion to the
Today, Porto Seguro is best ful little cafés. Trancoso offers islands and surrounding coral
known for its buzzing nightlife, sophisticated services focusing reefs from the town of
beach parties, music festivals, on high-end travelers – upscale Caravelas on the mainland.
and the notorious “Passarela do B&Bs, fine dining, and music. For snorkeling and diving
Alcool” (alcohol boardwalk), the The beaches are backed by red enthusiasts, underwater
nickname for the city’s main sandstone cliffs, and remain visibility is best between
street where vendors set up largely secluded and unspoiled. January and March.
kiosks selling fresh fruit cocktails
with a heavy alcoholic kick.
Visitors looking for a more
tranquil holiday experience
usually head farther south to
the lovely neighboring villages
of Arraial d’Ajuda and Trancoso.
South of town are a few
beaches that mainly attract
backpackers. Less developed,
but serene, these beaches can
be accessed from Porto Seguro
airport, which receives daily
flights from all over Brazil. Road
access can often be challenging, Birds nesting on Siriba island, Parque Nacional Marinho de Abrolhos
Vacationers and locals relaxing at Praia do Forte, Bahia
rParque Nacional de
Chapada Diamantina
Towering red rock formations, Rio Santo António
interspersed with lush vegetation,
Morro do Pai Inácio Salvador
characterize this 587-sq-mile 3,675 ft (1,120 m)
inho
(1,520-sq-km) park in the c ugêz
Mu
Rio
hinterland of Salvador, estab-
lished in 1985. Numerous small Gruta do
Lapão
rivers crisscross the highlands,
Rio
cascading over waterfalls, Len
çói
s
carving through canyons, and Lençóis
Ri
tumbling down waterslides.
o
São
Countless trails lead to caves and Cachoeira
Jos
A view of the old diamond-mining town da Fumaça
é
of Lençóis caverns. These undefined paths
are best navigated with a guide. ra
Caeté- iva
Cap
e Lençóis Açú Rio
ão
ir
* 9,000. ~ 16 miles (25 km) E of al de
Rio C
town. @ n Sectur, (75) 3334 1380. or
ad
_ Festa de Senhor dos Passos (Jan), nc
SE Rio Ro ra
pa
Ga
Festa de São João (Jun). RR
A
Rio
∑ guialencois.com D A Vale do
G A Paty
Located in the foothills of RA
PA
the Chapada Diamantina
mountains in central Bahia, the
town of Lençóis sprang up
Rio
almost overnight, as diamond Pr
eto
fever struck in these interior
highlands in the late 19th . Morro do Pai Inácio
century. The name of the town, The striking mesa is the park’s signature
Rio
meaning “sheets,” derives from mountain formation. The 3,675-ft (1,120-m)

Ca
pã
the camp that grew up here plateau offers breathtaking views of the
zin
northern half of the park.

ho
during the diamond strike. The

miners, too poor to afford tents,
made do with sheets draped
over branches. Cachoeira da Fumaça, or the Waterfall of
Unlike many other mining Smoke, wears a veil of mist as the water
boomtowns, however, Lençóis plunges down the 1,150-ft (340-m) precipice.
has a colonial air, with small
Baroque churches, and tiny
houses and shops painted in
pastel colors. The town’s distin-
guished main square, Praça
Horácio de Matos, consists of
19th-century houses, character-
ized by high, arched windows.
Another town landmark, Praça
Otaviano Alves, lined with
gracious colonial homes, is
farther south of the main square.
Lençóis has reinvented itself
as the base camp for ecotourists
venturing out to explore the
caves, waterfalls, and isolated
mountaintops of the . Vale do Paty
surrounding highlands. The The multiday hike up this scenic valley offers extraordinary views
town’s pretty colonial homes of the highlands from Morro do Castelo. Other attractions include
now house trekking equipment abandoned miners’ settlements and waterfalls with natural
stores, Internet cafés, and swimming pools at Cachoeira dos Funis, as well as the sound
tasteful photo galleries. of Barbado monkeys that inhabit this vast wilderness.
BAHIA 209
Bahia. n Fundação Chapada
Diamantina, Rua Pe de Ladeira
212, (75) 3334 1305. 8 Nas
Alturas, (75) 3334 1054.
∑ nasalturas.net; Chapada
Adventure, (75) 3334 2037.
∑ chapadaadventure.com
 in Chapada Diamantina (free,
no permit required for camping
and sleeping in the park’s
Rappeling in the Chapada Diamantina abundant caves).
The Chapada’s main adventure sport is rappeling down a cliff face
or into a cavern. Tour companies in Lençóis offer thrilling rappeling Transport
alongside amazing waterfalls. ~@
Poço Encantado
Remanso At the bottom of a deep cavern, the
cobalt-blue Enchanted Pool is
accessible by a steep trail. Between
April and September, sunlight
Rio Santo streaming through an aperture
makes the pool and cavern glow.
An
tó
io
n
Andaraí
Xique-Xique
Igatu
0 km 25
Rio Parag
0 miles 15
uaçu
Poço
Encantado
Mucugé
SE Rio
RR Mu
cug
A é
D
O
SI
N
C
O
R
A
Ri
Pa
o
rag
ua
çu
Cachoeira do
Key
Buração . Cachoeira do Buracão
Near the park’s southern edge,
Major road this waterfall plunges 394 ft (120 m)
Minor road into a vast pool. The river then carves
Trail
its way through a deep gorge
of sedimentary rock. Strong
Park boundary swimmers can swim downstream
Peak towards the trailhead.
Church and colorful houses in the small town of Canudos
t Canudos site of the 19th-century thorn-covered shrub very

* 59,000. @ Canudos War into a state park, common in the dry interior in
Parque Estadual de Canudos. Bahia. After the April rains, the
Traveling through the sleepy To access the park, visitors landscape briefly turns lush and
town of Canudos, it is hard to should get permission from the animals such as deer, hyacinth
imagine that this was once the Memorial de Canudos. macaws, and armadillos can
staging ground for a year-long The original settlement of be spotted frequently.
rebellion in 1897. Led by Canudos now lies at the bottom In the Canudos region during
Antônio Conselheiro, the war of the Lagoa Cocorobó, which the war, Republican soldiers
wound up costing the lives of flooded the area in 1970. were camped in the hills that
more than 20,000 people and However, many of the original were covered by favela trees.
almost destroyed the future of battlefields escaped the deluge Upon their return to Rio, the
the Brazilian Republic. and have been made into an soldiers never received the land
An eyewitness account at the open-air museum which is part which they had been promised.
end of the Canudos War was of the park, just on the outskirts They ended up squatting on the
written by journalist Euclides da of the town. The principal hills, naming their new-found
Cunha, who was on the scene museum sites include Morro do community favela after the trees
to cover the events for a São Conselheiro (Counsellor Hill), in the sertão. Hence the name
Paulo newspaper. He went on Vale da Morte (Valley of Death), favela (see p89), now used to
to write a book based on his the Estrada Sagrada (Holy Road), refer to the urban ghettos traces,
coverage of the war. Published and the Vale da Degola (Valley its origins to the Canudos War.
in 1902, Os Sertões (Rebellion in of Beheadings). The dry sertão
the Backlands) is one of the landscape is quite striking – Y Parque Estadual de
most important works of vegetation consists of caatinga Canudos
Brazilian literature. In 1997, the bushes, cacti, bromeliads, Tel (75) 3494 2000. & 8 tours
University of Bahia turned the umbu trees, and favelas, a small arranged by Memorial de Canudos.
Antônio Conselheiro
Part Robin Hood, part religious fanatic, Antônio Conselheiro,
the leader of Brazil’s 1897 Canudos War, was born Antônio
Vicente Mendes Maciel in 1830 in Ceará. Conselheiro traveled
the dry sertão for decades, first as a salesman and legal
conselheiro (counselor), then as a preacher and reformer,
raging against the plight of the peasants. In 1893, Conselheiro,
outraged at the newly imposed taxes on an already starving
population, settled in the tiny upland town of Canudos and
began creating what was, in effect, an independent state.
Conselheiro began implementing an early form of socialism,
heavily tinged with religious values. The poor of the region
flocked to Conselheiro and Canudos quickly grew to a
community of more than 8,000 people. With the prestige of
the new Republican government at stake, the army sent three
large forces against Canudos. All were destroyed. Finally, in
November of 1897, the army mounted a full-scale invasion.
Conselheiro died during the battle and all the residents of
Statue of Antônio Conselheiro Canudos were slaughtered.
BAHIA 211
y Linha Verde VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The Linha Verde (Green Line) is the 152-mile (252-km) Practical Information
stretch of coast that runs north from Salvador all the way Bahia. 8 Odara, Av ACM s/n, Praia
do Forte. Tel (71) 3676 1080.
to Mangue Seco on the Sergipe border. It is often referred ∑ praiadoforte.org.br
to as the Estrada do Côco, or Coconut Highway, because ∑ odaratours.com.br;
of the thick stands of palm trees that line the beaches. Centrotour, Av ACM s/n, Praia do
This part of the coast offers several popular holiday Forte. Tel (71) 3676 1091.
Projeto Tamar: Av ACM s/n, Praia
destinations and well-developed resorts. The most favored do Forte. Tel (71) 3676 1045.
destinations are Praia do Forte and Costa do Sauípe. Open 9am–6pm daily. 8 &
Farther north, the beaches are pristine and beautiful. ∑ tamar.org.br
Transport
SERGIPE @ from Salvador.
Mangue
Seco
Praia Sítio do Praia do Coquiro
Conde, a popular Praia Costa Azul
beach, is visited by
Praia Barra
locals on week- do Itapicuru
ends. Small reefs Barra do Itapicuru
form natural pools
at low tide.
99 Praia de Poças
Sítio do Conde
Conde Praia
233
Sítio do
Barra do Itariri
ES
Conde
TR
In a lovely setting with green

AD
palm trees, white sand dunes,

A
Barra do and mangroves, Barra do Itariri is

DO
Itariri an ideal beach destination.

CÔC
BAHIA
O
Praia Baixio
Sapiranga Reserve Cardeal

This eco-preserve da Silva 400 Baixio
protects some of the 99
Costa do Sauípe
last remaining Atlantic Subaúma The custom-built
rainforest in Brazil.
Praia village at Costa do
Massarandupió Sauípe offers high-
93
0 km 15 Porto do end recreation
Sauípe including spas,
0 miles 15 Costa do
Sauípe sailing, and golf.
Itanagra
Key
Main Road Açu da Imbassaí
Torre
Minor Road
505
Praia do Forte
Itacimirim
Guarajuba
Pajuca
Praia da Barra
do Jacúpe
Mata da
São João Arembepe
93
Praia do
Dias Arembepe
d’Avila
Camaçari 522
Praia do Forte
Projeto Tamar Natural pools at the north
99
As part of a conservation plan, Lauro de end of Praia do Forte
four turtle species are reared at Freitas provide snorkeling and
324
Praia do Forte. swimming areas.
SALVADOR

SERGIPE, ALAGOAS &

PERNAMBUCO
Long stretches of white beach bathed by a warm, blue-green
ocean comprise the magnificent coastline of Sergipe, Alagoas, and
Pernambuco. In contrast, much of the interior of this region is dry
sertão, where the landscape is barren and harsh. Despite, or perhaps
because of their material poverty, these northeastern states are
culturally rich in music and folklore.
The states of Sergipe, Alagoas, and and a penchant for lively festivals. Popular
Pernambuco in the Northeast were musical styles such as forró and frevo
among the first parts of Brazil to be began or culminated in the Northeast.
colonized by Portugal, and for centuries All three states have pretty, historic
after ward they were the richest region towns, stunning coastlines, and picture-
of colonial Brazil. The wealth of the region perfect beaches. Reefs of stone and coral
came from sugar. With slave labor, sugar provide natural habitats for fish, sea turtles,
cane could be cultivated in abundance, sharks, and other tropical marine life.
and sugar sold in the burgeoning markets The island archipelago of Fernando de
of Europe. In 1654, the Portuguese Noronha, a municipality of Pernambuco,
reclaimed Pernambuco after a brief Dutch is one of Brazil’s prime marine habitats and
takeover, but opted to keep the new city, a preferred destination of scuba divers.
Recife, as the capital instead of Olinda. The Rio São Francisco, the longest river
Sugar still dominates the economy, but in Brazil, passes through the beautiful
the beaches make this region one of scenery of Sergipe and Alagoas in the last
Brazil’s hottest tourist destinations. These leg of its journey before finally meeting
states have also developed a rich culture the Atlantic Ocean.
Dois Irmãos (Mount of the Two Brothers), Parque Nacional Marinho de Fernando de Noronha
View from Igreja de São Salvador do Mundo over the rooftops of Olinda
Exploring Sergipe,
Alagoas & Pernambuco
Year-round warm weather makes this region a
popular sunshine destination. The island archipelago
of Fernando de Noronha in Pernambuco is Brazil’s
top scuba-diving destination, and it also offers a
fascinating ecosystem rich in marine life. Recife and
Olinda provide a captivating impression of 17th- and
18th-century Brazil, a legacy of Dutch and Portuguese
colonization. São Cristóvão and Penedo, located on
the border between the two states, are both
charming Baroque colonial towns. Penedo has the
added advantage of offering a spectacular view of
the Rio São Francisco. Rio São Francisco, the largest river in Northeast Brazil
Teresina
Serrolândia Exu
Juazeiro
Ri
Araripina
o
Moreilândia do Norte
da
Br
Trindade ú
Bodocó Paje
ígi
d
Flores
a
Ouricurí Serrita
Mirandiba Serra
Santa Filomena Parnamirim Talhada
ito
Salgueiro
S ão
qu
Santa Cruz rí
Pedr
Dormentes PERNAMBUCO Pe
Cabrobó
da
o
Ibimirim
Afrânio Floresta
Lagoa a
Orocó rr
Se
Pont
al Santa Maria São
da Boa Vista Fra Represa Inajá
nci de Itaparica
Rajada sc o
to
xo Mata
Mo
Grande
Petrolina
CANION XINGÓ
Piranhas
Pão de Açúcar
Sights at a Glance Juazeiro
Towns & Cities

Carira
1 Aracaju
2 São Cristóvão
3 Penedo
Simão Dias
6 Marechal Deodoro
7 Maceió Lagarto
9 Recife pp220–23 Salgado
0 Olinda pp224–6
Estância
w Caruaru Itabaianinha
Beaches, Islands & Areas Mangue Seco

of Natural Beauty
Salvador
4 Rio São Francisco
5 Cânion Xingó
8 Porto de Galinhas
q Ilha de Itamaracá
Stunning blue sky and pastel-colored colonial houses in the e Fernando de Noronha
picturesque town of Olinda pp228–9
SERGIPE, ALAGOAS & PERNAMBUCO 215
Getting Around
Fortaleza FERNANDO DE
Recife, Aracaju, Maceió, and Fernando de NORONHA
Noronha have good flight connections to
the rest of Brazil. However, only Recife has
an international airport. Cities on the coast Mossoró
are easily accessible by bus or car. Bus Natal
connections are fast and convenient
throughout the region. Highway BR-101 Campina
connects Aracaju, Maceió, and Recife, while Grande João Pessoa
smaller coastal destinations are only a short 0 km 200
drive east on secondary roads off the main Caruaru Recife
0 miles 100
highway. However, roads in the interior
require a bit more patience as they are often
in poor condition, making night driving
hazardous. Gas stations and services become
scarce in the sparsely populated interior;
drivers should be prepared with a full tank
of gas, snacks, and plenty of water.
João Pessoa
São José
do Egito Timbaúba Goiana
ILHA DE ITAMARACÁ
Carpina Paulista
Limoeiro
Campina
Grande Sta. Cruz do OLINDA
Capibaribe Vitória de
Sertânia Sto. Antão RECIFE
Nova Jerusalém
Pesqueira
Jaboatão
CARUARU Escada Cabo de Santo Agostinho
Arcoverde
PORTO DE GALINHAS
a
Lajedo Palmares
m
Rio Formoso
ne
Key
Ipa
Quipapá Una
Barreiros
Garanhuns Highway
Porto Cavlo
Maragogi Major road
Águas Belas
União dos Saõ Luis Minor road
Palmares do Quitunde
Railroad
Palmeira dos Rio Largo
Índios State border
Atalaia
A LArapiraca
AGOAS MACEIÓ
MARECHAL
DEODORO
Traipu RIO SÃO
FRANCISCO
Coruripe
Propriá
PENEDO
S E R G I P E Piassabussu
Maruim
Laranjeiras
ARACAJU
SÃO CRISTÓVÃO
0 km 50
0 miles 50
Sailboats near Fernando de Noronha with Morro do Pico at a distance

2 São Cristóvão
Sergipe. * 73,000. @ from Aracaju.
n Centro de Turismo, (79) 3214 8848.
_ Festival de Arte de São Cristóvão
(Oct). ∑ turismo.se.gov.br
A designated National Historic

Heritage Site, São Cristóvão
was founded in 1590, and is
considered one of the oldest
cities in Brazil. It served as the
capital of Sergipe in the 17th
and 18th centuries, but when
the capital shifted to Aracaju
it soon dwindled to the sleepy
The wide boulevards of Sergipe’s capital, Aracaju interior town it is today.
The town’s charming historic
1 Aracaju attractions is the Museu da center is a panoply of colonial
Sergipe. * 570,000. ~ n Centro
Gente Sergipana, a state-of- squares and buildings, and is
de Turismo, (79) 3179 7553. _ Festa the-art museum exploring the also a hub of commerce. The
de São João (Jan), Forró Caju Music history, culture, and traditions most beautifully preserved
Festival (Jun), Festa de Yemanjá (Dec). of the Sergipe region with inter- square, Praça de São Francisco,
∑ aracaju.se.gov.br active exhibits. is easily identified by the large
Franciscan cross at its center.
Sergipe’s original capital was São E Museu da Gente Sergipana Flanking the square are
Cristóvão, located inland from Av Ivo do Prado 398. Tel (79) 3218 the Santa Casa Hospital, the
the Atlantic Ocean. A burgeon- 1551. Open Tue–Sun. & former Governor’s Palace, and
ing trade in sugar, however,  Oceanário the Convento de São Francisco,
made a sizable port necessary, Av Santos Dumont. Tel (79) 3243 3214. which now houses the Museu
and in 1855, the capital trans- Open 9am–9pm daily. & de Arte Sacra (Museum of
ferred to Aracaju, situated at the Sacred Art). The museum has a
mouth of the Rio Sergipe. By Environs fine collection of silver chalices
1901, the sleepy fishing village Aracaju’s lively beach neighbor- and crosses, and a few beauti-
soon transformed into a stately hoods lie 6 to 12 miles (10 to fully sculpted statues of saints.
capital, with a horse-drawn 20 km) south of the city center. The ceiling of the convent
streetcar and a movie theater. The most popular suburban chapel was painted by the
Today, Aracaju is a small city beach is Atalaia, with its sports Bahian artist, José Teófilo de
with a commercial downtown and recreation facilities, stages Jesus (1758–1847). In October,
area along the south riverbank. for cultural events, and good the annual Festival de Arte de
Sea-life enthusiasts should visit seafood joints. The other favorite São Cristóvão hosts popular
Oceanário, which has models of is Praia Atalaia Nova, on the art and music.
various marine habitats. The Ilha de Santa Luzia, an island
main highlights here include just off the coast, accessible by E Museu de Arte Sacra
the sea turtles and the shark boat from the ferry station in Praça de São Francisco. Tel (79) 3261
tank. Another of the city’s top the city center. 1385. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
Franciscan cross in front of Convento de São Francisco in São Cristóvão

Streets and historic buildings by the Penedo waterfront
3 Penedo Environs irrigation lifeline for the people

Alagoas. * 60,000. @ from Maceió.
The Rio São Francisco Delta is in the small towns of the arid
n Teatro 7 de Setembro, Centro easily accessed from the town of northeastern interior to the
Historico, (82) 3551 2727. _ Bom Piaçabuçu, 9 miles (15 km) east bigger cities along the coast.
Jesus dos Navegantes (2nd Sun in of Penedo. The delta, situated on Considered a symbol of
Jan). ∑ canalpenedo.com.br the Sergipe side of the river, is national unity, Brazilians revere
rich in lagoons and mangrove the São Francisco, and it is the
The oldest settlement in forests, and is home to turtles subject of many myths and
Alagoas, Penedo was founded and migrating seabirds. The fables. Nicknamed Velho Chico
in 1565 by Duarte Coelho riverbank in Alagoas features (Old Chico), the 1,963-mile
Pereira on a strategic bluff low-rolling sand dunes. (3,160-km) river meanders
overlooking the Rio São through five states. Originating
Francisco, about 19 miles in the Serra da Canastra
(30 km) upstream of the delta. 4 Rio São Francisco mountains in Minas Gerais,
Invading Dutch forces Sergipe, Alagoas, Pernambuco &
it flows north through Bahia,
conquered the town in 1637, Minas Gerais. and crosses briefly into
and after eight years, the Pernambuco before continuing
Portuguese managed to regain The largest and most important east, toward the Atlantic,
control. Today, Penedo’s historic river in the region, the Rio São marking the border between
center has been designated a Francisco has long served as Sergipe and Alagoas in its final
National Historic Monument. the main transport and run to the sea.
Particularly noteworthy is the
complex housing the Convento
de São Francisco and Igreja de Lampião & Maria Bonita
Santa Maria dos Anjos, built In the 1920s and 1930s, bandit leader Lampião and his
over a period of 100 years. wife Maria Bonita led a band of 40 outlaws, nicknamed
The Igreja Nossa Senhora da cangaceiros (cangaço means badlands), on a 15-year
Corrente (Church of Our Lady spree of robberies, hold-ups, rapes, and
of Chains), built in 1765 by the shoot-outs across the Northeast. As
Lemos de Gonzaga family, was their raids continued, Lampião and
used as a refuge for runaway Maria Bonita became notorious figures
slaves, who the family often throughout Brazil.
provided with forged certifi- The duo even introduced their own
cates of freedom. It has a fine style of clothing, with the round leather
Rococo-style main altar. cangaceiro hat, the front brim turned
upward and decorated with stars or
R Convento de São Francisco & coins. The police and militia searched
Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos for them endlessly but were unable to
Rua 7 de Setembro 218. Open capture them. Finally, in 1938, Lampião,
8–11:30am, 2–5pm Tue–Fri, Maria Bonita, and nine cangaceiros were
8am–11pm Sat & Sun. ambushed and killed by the police in
R Igreja Nossa Senhora da Sergipe. Their story has inspired
Corrente numerous songs, plays, and different Lampião and Maria Bonita
Praça 12 de Abril. Open 8am–4pm versions on film and TV. clay statues
Tue–Sun. 8
5 Cânion Xingó is protected by a large reef.

Sergipe. @ from Aracaju.
The authorities are working
n Reservatório de Xingó, (79) 9972 toward removing the
1320. 8 trips to the dam at 11:30am restaurants that have been
Tue–Sun, call (79) 3346 1184 for built right on the sand.
further departure details. &
R Convento do São Francisco
Standing on the Rio São Praça Pedro Paulinho. Tel (82) 3551
Francisco, the Xingó Dam in 2279. Open 8–11:30am, 2–5pm Mon–
Sergipe is one of the largest in Fri, 8–11am Sat & Sun.
Brazil. When it was completed R Igreja de Santa Maria
in 1994, the dam blocked off the Madalena
São Francisco canyon at a point Praça João 23. Tel (82) 3263 1623.
about 155 miles (250 km) from Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sun.
the ocean, causing the river to Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena in Marechal
rise and create the Xingó Deodoro’s historic center
Reservoir. This artificial lake is 7 Maceió
now a popular destination. 6Marechal Alagoas. * 930,000. ~ @ (82) 221
Catamarans and schooners Deodoro 4615. n Rua Boa Vista 453, Centro,
depart from the dam and travel (82) 3315 5700. _ Maceió Fest (Nov).
upstream, crossing the reservoir Alagoas. * 30,000. @ from Maceió.
n (82) 8856 9091 ∑ turismo.
and re-entering the main part The capital of Alagoas, Maceió is
maceio.com.br
of the river. Several rock known for its many beautiful
passageways that previously lay urban beaches. The best known,
at the top of the canyon are now The capital of Alagoas until 1839, from north to south, are Jatiúca,
open to exploration by boat. Marechal Deodoro was founded Ponta Verde, Sete Coqueiros,
Situated 2 miles (3 km) from in 1611 as Vila Madalena. The city and Pajuçara. Protected by
the dam, the Museu de was renamed in honor of its reefs, the beaches have little or
Arqueológia de Xingó displays native son, Marshall Manuel no surf, warm water, and a
numerous archaeological Deodoro da Fonseca (1827–92), Caribbean turquoise-green
objects from nearby sites that elected as Brazil’s first president color. The shores are lined with
were flooded when the dam in 1891. Fonseca’s childhood thick groves of coconut palms,
was created. Artifacts from home is now a small museum, especially dense at Ponta Verde.
the earliest sites, dating from displaying much of the original About 1 mile (2 km) offshore
around 5000 BC, include furniture and family memorabilia. from Pajuçara, a series of large
arrows, rock paintings, primitive The city’s small, 18th-century coral reefs are partially exposed
stone mortars, and fish- colonial center features the at low tide, forming sizable
cleaning tools. Later sites reveal Rococo Igreja de Santa Maria natural pools that can be
a variety of items including Madalena. Adjoining the explored with a mask and
bone jewelry, decorative church, the Convento do São snorkel. Small single-sail rafts
ceramics, and clay containers. Francisco houses a museum. known as jangadas depart daily
Just a 15-minute bus ride at low tide from Ponta Verde
E Museu de Arqueológia from the city is the Praia do and take about 20 minutes to
de Xingó Francês, with powdery sand reach the pools.
2 miles (3 km) from Xingó dam at and deep-blue water. It has In addition to the beaches,
Rodoviaria Canindé-Piranhas. Open enormous waves for surfing at Maceió has a small historic
9am–4pm Wed–Sun. & 8 7 one end, while the other end core. The neighborhoods of
Jaraguá and Centro, just inland
from the port, have a large
number of well-preserved
historic buildings which convey
some of the atmosphere of the
city’s 19th-century sugar boom.
One of the loveliest mansions
on the waterfront has been
beautifully restored and now
houses the Museu Théo
Brandão. Named after a local
writer who wrote about
Alagoan folk art and
anthropology, the small
museum has a good collection
of native art. It also has some
View of Praia de Francês, one of the popular beaches of Marechal Deodoro wonderfully creative displays
8 Porto de Galinhas
Pernambuco. * 10,000. k Recife
Guararapes International Airport, 38
miles (60 km) N of town, then bus. n
(81) 3552 1728.
Porto de Galinhas is one

of the most popular tourist
destinations in Northeast
Brazil, and deservedly so.
There are no high-rises
dwarfing the beach here,
just low-scale pousadas and
bungalows. The star attraction
of the area, in additions to
Jangadas, small sailboats, on the beach at Ponta Verde in Maceió the beach, are the natural
tide pools that form in the
that use local crafts to depict neighborhood is known as reefs just a short distance
the region’s religious festivals, filé, a loose weave that is often offshore. Colorful jangada
typical foods, the sugar-cane brightly colored. rafts take swimmers and
industry, and folklore. snorkelers out to swim in
The southern end of the city E Museu Théo Brandão the clear shallow waters that
borders the Lagoa Mundaú, Av da Paz 1490, Centro. Tel (82) 3214 teems with tropical fish.
one of the many lagoons that 1713. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Porto de Galinhas also
have given Alagoas its name. 2–5pm Sat. 8 & offers a lively atmosphere
The lagoon encompasses with excellent restaurants
several mangrove islands Environs and shopping, and, better
teeming with crustaceans and Praia do Gunga is a pretty, still, it does not take much
other marine life. Boats make palm-fringed beach located effort to get away from the
excursions into the lagoon’s 9 miles (15 km) south of bustle. The main mode of
channels. Maceió. Access to the beach is transportation is the dune
The Pontal da Barra gained via a private road cut- buggy, which allows for easy
neighborhood on the lagoon’s ting across one of the region’s transit along the dirt and
shore is a small fishing village. largest coconut plantations. sand roads that lead to local
There are several rustic Permission to enter must be beaches. A short distance
restaurants overlooking the obtained at the gate, but south along the beach leads
water, which serve the catch of beaches in Brazil are public to Ponta de Maracaípe, a
the day. Dishes with sururu (a property and access cannot be beautiful spot with a large
small type of clam) and crab are denied. One side of the beach white sandbar, where the
especially popular. In Pontal da faces the lagoon, while the Rio Maracaípe runs into the
Barra, visitors will find highly other side looks toward the ocean. The mangroves in the
skilled rendeiras, or lace-makers, ocean, offering the option of estuary are home to several
working on a variety of laces. fresh- or salt-water swimming, species of seahorse that live
The one most typical of the as well as kayaking. amid the roots of the tree.
Quilombos
In the African Yorubá language, quilombo
means dwelling place. In Brazil, the term
was used to describe a community of
runaway slaves. Brazil’s most famous
quilombo, Quilombo dos Palmares in
Alagoas, grew to the size of a small city,
Portrait of with 30,000 residents. In the late 1600s,
Zumbi Zumbi, the quilombo’s second leader,
successfully defended it from repeated
Portuguese attacks. However, the Portuguese were relentless,
and finally, in 1694, Palmares fell. Zumbi was beheaded and
the community destroyed. A number of such places escaped
Palmares’ fate and survive even today. There are now 1,000
quilombos registered in Brazil. Zumbi’s legacy is remembered
every year on November 20, when Zumbi dos Palmares
Day, or Black Awareness Day, is celebrated. Clear-water rock pools offshore from Porto
de Galinhas
9 Recife E Kahal Zur Israel

Synagogue
The Portuguese, who had built Olinda on a hillside, ignored Rua do Bom Jesus 197. Tel (81) 3224
the swampy islands below. The site of present-day Recife was 2128. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri,
2–5:30pm Sun. &
only a fishing village when the Dutch took over Pernambuco
Built in 1637, during the city’s brief
in 1630. Count Maurice of Nassau commanded the draining period of Dutch rule, this
and dyking of the flat islands at the mouth of the Rio synagogue recounts the history of
Capibaribe. The islands of Santo Antônio, Boa Vista, and the Jewish community in Recife. It
Recife Antigo (Old Recife) were connected to each other was the first synagogue anywhere
and the mainland with an ingenious system of bridges. Boa in the Americas. Many of the Jews,
who immigrated to Dutch-
Viagem, south of Recife, has a popular beach, many
hotels, and excellent nightlife.
M I L I TA R
AV AV
ALF Museu Cais
RED
Forte do Brum O do Sertão
Exploring Recife Antigo of the city. PRAÇÅ R B V
IE J R A
RU
A D L IS B
COMUNIDADE DO M
O B
OM OA Torre de
In the heart of downtown Old Overlooking the LUSO-BRASILEIRA
RUA
EL O JES
US Malakoff
DO
Recife is the Marco Zero and Rio Capibaribe, RUA
BRU
M RECIFE Paço do MARCO
the surrounding square, which the former CAI ZERO
S D Frevo
O A P O ANTIGO
A
marks the official point where customs building LO
LIM
Kahal Zur
A
Israel Synagogue
the city was founded. The site dates back to
OS
RB
BA
of the original pier, it controlled 1826, when
AV
CO
Rio
all arrivals and departures Recife was one Bebe
ribe
AN
taking place in the bay. This of Brazil’s major
BR
bustling district of the city ports. The renovated building Ponte Buarque
RIO
de Macedo
makes for a pleasant walk houses restaurants, an art
AV
during the day. It is possible gallery, and a shopping and
Rio
to take a boat from the square entertainment center.
across to the Parque das Catedral de São
Esculturas, which features Praça da
Pedro dos Clérigos
Republica
an imposing collection of tall,
exotic sculptures made by Recife City Center Igreja São Francisco &
Capela Dourada
one of Brazil’s leading ceramic 1 Paço da Alfândega Ponte Sta
RU Isabel
artists Francisco Brennand A
RU
2 Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue A

DA
ES
D
(see p223). AU O AP
3 Paço do Frevo SU
AR
RO
The most interesting street RA L
AR
4 Torre de Malakoff
GU
Ponte Duarte
in the historic quarter is Rua
5 Museu Cais do Sertão Coelho
AV
do Bom Jesus. During the Instituto Ricardo Brennand

6 Forte do Brum 7 miles (11 km)
Ponte da
brief period of Dutch rule the Oficina Cerâmica
Francisco Brennand Vista Boa
7 Forte das Cinco Pontas
street was known as Rua dos 10 miles (16 km)
8 Praça da Republic BOA
Judeus (Street of the Jews).
The Jewish community thrived 9 Igreja São Francisco &
VISTA
under Dutch rule, but once Capela Dourada
the Catholic Portuguese 0 Catedral de São Pedro dos
Clérigos 0 meters 500
re-established their control,
most fled, converted, or went q Casa da Cultura 0 yards 500
underground. A large number w Instituto Ricardo Brennand
of the buildings on this street e Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco Brennard
have been restored to their
original 17th-century condition.
Every Sunday, the street comes
alive, as an art and crafts fair, live
music, and outdoor festivities
take place.
P Paço da Alfândega
Rua da Alfândega 35. Tel (81) 3194
2100. Open 10am–10pm Mon–Sat,
noon–8pm Sun & public hols. 7
∑ pacoalfandega.com.br
Just on the edge of the
historical quarter, the Paço da
Alfândega brings together
the old and the new elements The well-preserved old buildings on Rua do Bom Jesus
RECIFE 221
controlled Recife, had originally E Paço do Frevo VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

come from Portugal, fleeing the Praça do Arsenal da Marinha s/n.
Inquisition. At the height of Dutch Tel (81) 3355 9500. Open 9am–6pm Practical Information
rule, about half of Recife’s white Tue–Fri (to 9pm Thu), noon–7pm Pernambuco. * 1,500,000.
population was Jewish. Sat & Sun. & 8 ∑ pacodofrevo. n Empetur, (81) 3427 8000.
Unfortunately, the period of org.br _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar).
religious tolerance was short- Come to this culture center to ∑ recife.pe.gov.br
lived, and when the Dutch learn and experience all about Transport
surrendered to the Portuguese in Recife’s unique musical rhythm. k Aeroporto dos Guararapes, 7
1654 the Jews were given three It includes a Documentation miles (11 km) S of city center. @
months to liquidate their assets Center, Music School, School of 9 miles (14 km) SW of city center.
and leave. Many members of Dance, and various temporary
the Recife community set sail to and permanent exhibitions.
New Amsterdam and helped P Forte do Brum
found New York. P Torre de Malakoff Praça Comunidade Luso-Brasileira.
The synagogue was Praça do Arsenal da Marinha, Rua do Tel (81) 3224 4620. Open 9am–4pm
dismantled, and its role as a Bom Jesus. Tel (81) 3184 3180. Open Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat & Sun.
temple and meeting place of 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 3–7pm Sun. One of the few constructions to
RU the Jewish community was A relative newcomer to the pre-date the Dutch, Forte Brum is
A
AR
RE completely forgotten. Rua do Bom Jesus, the Malakoff located at the far end of Avenida
CI
FE Tower was built in 1845 as South Militar. Built by the Portuguese
S
R MADRE DE DEUS
America’s first astronomical in 1629, it was taken over by the
observatory, and is still functional Dutch in 1630, and strengthened
Paço da
Alfãndega A Ba today. Visitors can climb to the and expanded. Today it is a
G
ND E ci
OL INDA
R U A D A A L FA a top terrace for a splendid view military museum.

do
Ponte Mauricio Ponte 12 de Pi of the city courtesy of the
A V MQ . DE
de Nassau Setembro na
LX 200 telescopes. E Forte das Cinco Pontas
Ca piba rib e
Praça das Cinco Pontas. Tel (81)
A
AVENIDA MARTINS DE
B ARROS
V E Museu Cais do Sertão 3355 3107. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat.
M
&8
O
ARIO
RUA A
SANTO Av Alfredo Lisboa. Tel (81) 3089
R D E MA R C
DE
PRA
ARMO
R U A EST DO ROS
IA 2974. Open daily. & Somewhat deceptively, the Forte

T
RUA
ANTÔNIO
IN
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ANG R
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AV RU RE RI
A NH
AV N
ENI MU TA
BA
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O VA
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TA A the history and 1630 to protect the new Dutch-

IR
A
FLOR
DA SÃ
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ES DO HER VAL
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SÉ
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FREI
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RUA
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RUA
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A NE Cinco Pontas
RU PAL G Recife carnival, leveled the unique shape and
RUA MA RQU
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TR
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the lifestyle here. pointer. Wonderfully restored,

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In one section, the fort now houses the city

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may even play impressive collection of maps,
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with musical paintings, and artifacts that tell
RU
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O Guararapes
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IX 7 miles (11 km) instruments. the history of Dutch rule.
O
Velha TO
Frevo
Recife’s signature beat is frevo. Fast, upbeat, almost polka-like,
The building was eventually torn the rhythm is particularly popular during Carnaval (see p45).
down at the beginning of the This distinct musical genre is
20th century. reputed to have derived its name
Archaeologists have confirmed from the verb ferver (to boil),
the exact location of the original which refers to the frenetic beat of
synagogue after digging up part the brass bands. One of the
of a mikveh (ritual bath). The accessories of a frevo dancer is the
current synagogue has been brightly colored hand-held parasol
rebuilt from the ground up, based that is used in the choreography.
on these findings, historical data, First recorded in the 1930s, the
and other sources. The museum rhythm made its way into the
presents an excellent docu- repertoire of mainstream Brazilian A dancer performing frevo with
mentary and display on the history musicians by the 1950s and 1960s. a colorful parasol
of the Jews in Recife.
Exploring Modern Recife white Portuguese tiles (azulejos)

were used to decorate the main
Though modern Recife stretches onto the mainland, its center altar and the walls of the small,
comprises the islands of Santo Antônio, Boa Vista, and Recife charming cloister.
Antigua. Skyscrapers exist alongside a handful of old colonial However, the pièce de
résistance is the Capela
buildings and crowded markets, lending the city a striking Dourada (Golden Chapel),
character. The area north of the center is as appealing, with leafy added in 1695, in an annex of
suburbs and a few museums and parks. The squares, dotted the main church. All of the
with impressive churches, retain much of their old-world charm. wood in the chapel is jacaranda
and cedar and is covered in
gold leaf or paint. The intricately
carved altars, arches, and beams
showcase some outstanding
Portuguese Baroque art. Each
altar consists of various arches,
adding a depth of field to the
statues on display. One of the
walls in the church is adorned
with a painting that depicts the
Crucifixion of a group of
Franciscan saints.
R Catedral de São Pedro

dos Clérigos
Rua São Pedro s/n, Santo Antônio.
Tel (81) 3224 2954. Open 8am–noon,
2–4pm Mon–Fri.
Dating back to 1728, Catedral
de São Pedro dos Clérigos is
one of the most impressive
The courtyard of Igreja São Francisco, with a graceful, colonnaded arcade churches in Pernambuco. Its
striking façade is dominated
P Praça da República elegant example of classic by a statue of St. Peter, which
Palácio do Campo das Princesas: imperial architecture, marked by was added in 1980. While from
Tel (81) 3425 2124. Open 9am–5pm its symmetric forms and French the outside the walls of the
Mon–Fri, 10am–noon, 2–4pm Sun. and Italian decorative styles. church look perfectly square
Teatro Princesa Isabel: Tel (81) 3355 The Palácio da Justiça, with and straight, on the inside the
3323. Open check for performance its dome-shaped cupola, was church nave is octagonal.
timings. Palácio da Justiça: Tel (81) constructed in 1930 to mark the The best features of the
3419 3222.
presidency of Getúlio Vargas church are its stunning wood
Modern Recife’s main civic square, (see pp60–61). carving and the illusionistic
Praça da República, is located at ceiling. The main altar,
the tip of Santo Antônio island. R Igreja São Francisco & balconies, and most of the
Some of the city’s finest public Capela Dourada remaining interior elements
buildings can be found here. Rua do Imperador, Santo Antônio. Tel were renovated in the 19th
The Palácio do Campo das (81) 3224 0530. Open 8–11:30am, century in the Rococo style.
Princesas (Governors’ Palace) 2–5pm Mon–Fri, 8–11am Sat. & The only original pieces that
building was built in the 1840s. One of the major attractions in remain are the two gold-
Over the years, renovations and Recife, Igreja São Francisco painted wooden pulpits.
additions have somewhat served as the convent of the The square in front of the
altered the original Neo-Classical Third Franciscan Order. It was church, Pátio de São Pedro,
design and made the building built in 1606, when the island of is one of Recife’s most popular
more eclectic. The lovely interior Santo Antônio only had 200 public squares. The beautifully
garden was designed by Brazil’s inhabitants. The initial convent restored area hosts a number
premier landscape artist, Roberto was small and rather plain. of cultural events. The most
Burle Marx. Unfortunately, the During the Dutch occupation of important, Terça Negra (Black
only view available to the public Recife (1630–54) it was used as Tuesday), takes place every
is the one through the wrought- army barracks. Renovations Tuesday night. It is widely
iron fence posts. began after the return of the known for showcasing typical
The Teatro Princesa Isabel, a Franciscans. The courtyard was regional Afro-Brazilian musical
renovated pink theater, hosts added with a surrounding styles, such as afoxé, maculelê,
many of Recife’s prime cultural arcade of delicate and ornate and coco. The area also has
productions. The building is an Tuscan columns. Blue-and- many fine restaurants.
RECIFE 223
E Instituto Ricardo E Oficina de Cerâmica

Brennand Francisco Brennand
Av Antônio Brennand, Várzea. Tel (81) Access via Av Caxangá, Várzea.
2121 0352. Open 1–5pm Tue–Sun. 7 Tel (81) 3271 2466. Open 8am–5pm
Founded by the cousin of ceram- Mon–Thu, 8am–4pm Fri.
ic artist Francisco Brennand, the Acclaimed as the most unusual
Instituto Ricardo Brennand cultural attraction in Recife, the
includes a small castle, the Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco
Castelo São João, which houses Brennand is the famed artist’s
a large collection of European personal gallery. Brennand
art, an impressive (b.1927) is best known
collection of medieval for his large collection
armory and weapons, of phallic-shaped
Eye-catching ceramic figures and souvenirs and an extensive ceramic sculptures,
on sale, Casa da Cultura archive of paintings nearly all of which are
and documents from striking, potent, and
P Casa da Cultura the years of the Dutch larger than life. His
Rua Floriano Peixoto s/n, São José. conquest of Brazil. collection is creatively
Tel (81) 3184 3151. Open 9am–7pm Also worth seeing displayed inside a
Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm Sat, 9am–2pm Sun. is the Pinacoteca ceramic-covered
Used as a jail until 1973, the gallery that features brick factory and its
former penitentiary now a large collection of surrounding gardens,
houses the Casa da Cultura, 17th-century paint- beautifully landscaped
the city’s largest arts and craft ings and drawings by Burle Marx, a
market. Each of the old jail by landscape artists renowned landscape
cells holds a shop showcasing Frans Post and Albert Ceramic tiles by architect of the
some of the finest leather, Eckhout, both of Francisco Brennand 20th century.
lace, and ceramic crafts of this whom were hired by In addition to
region. Built in 1850, the jail Dutch count Maurice of Nassau Brennand’s superb ceramic art,
was modeled after US prisons to portray Brazil’s fauna and the collection also showcases
in New Jersey and Pennsylvania. flora, as well as scenes from thousands of playfully designed
The four wings are in a cross everyday life. Over the years, ceramic tiles, as well as some of
shape, allowing a view of Brennand has amassed the his paintings and drawings. The
all four corridors from one world’s largest collection of bold mix of stylized imagery,
vantage position in the center Post’s work. The exhibit also embellishment, and erotic
of the cross. The center brings includes many antique maps motifs, visible in all his works,
out the monthly Agenda and documents that recount led one critic to define
Cultural, an excellent listing the brief, but eventful, history Brennand’s art as “tropical
of cultural events. of the Dutch in Brazil. sensual Baroque.”
Gardens in Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco Brennand, adorned with ceramic sculptures

0 Olinda
One of the best-preserved colonial cities in Brazil, Olinda
was founded in 1535 by the Portuguese. Much of it was
burned down during the Dutch occupation in 1631, and later
beautifully restored to its former glory. Magnificent colonial
buildings, gardens, Baroque churches, and numerous small
chapels mark Olinda, which was designated a UNESCO World
Heritage Site in 1982. Although much of this historic city lies
on a steep hillside, it is only a short walk up, and the views
of the Atlantic Ocean are splendid. Its narrow cobblestone
streets are perfect for exploring on foot. The highlight of the
walk suggested here is the Praça da Sé, which features historic
churches and sweeping views of Recife (see pp220–23), only The view of Olinda from Alto da Sé, with
6 miles (10 km) to the south. the sea in the background
1 Praça do Carmo, IC
the prominent city NT
LA
square, faces the AT
splendid Igreja Nossa
Senhora do Carmo,
resting on a
small hill above.
S F
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Brazil’s oldest Franciscan convent O EN
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was built in 1585. When the Dutch LIB
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rebuilt in the 18th century. The O S ÃO

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cloister walls, decorated with RU
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life of St. Francis. ALFR
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in 1535, is the oldest parish BIS RA

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church in Northeast Brazil. The UNT
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renovations over the centuries.

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The last, in 1984, restored the Walk route

BI INH
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A
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building almost to its original

O
16th-century state.
Tips for Walkers

Starting point: Secretaria de
Turismo, Praça do Carmo.
Walking time: 2–3 hours. Flat,
non-slippery footwear is best.
Best days: Tue–Sat. Museums are
only open in the morning.
Places to eat: Oficina do Sabor, 4 Alto da Sé
Rua do Amparo 335; Olinda The Alto da Sé is one of the highest points in Olinda and offers a
Sorvetes e Sucos, Rua São magnificent view of Recife in the distance. In the evenings, locals
Bento 358. gather here to browse the crafts market, and eat tapioca and
pancakes made from manioc.
OLINDA 225
5 Mercado Ribeira
Originally the building
where slaves were bought Practical Information
and sold, this 18th-century Pernambuco. * 397,000.
structure is now one of n Rua Prudente de Moraes 472,
Olinda’s busiest crafts (81) 3305 1060. _ Torneio dos
markets. Especially popular Repentistas (late Jan); Carnaval
are naive art ceramics, (Feb/Mar); Olinda Arte em Toda
carnival masks, and frevo Parte, open house event of artists’
umbrellas (see p221). studios (late Nov–early Dec).
Transport
k Recife International Airport.
@
6 Igreja e Mosteiro
AN São Bento
E
OC R Founded in 1582, this
A MA
B EIR church holds a
IDA
EN
AV
BO
RB
A
magnificient gold altar.
EL
NO
A MA It took more than a year
E NID G O N Ç A LV E S
AV
SIGIM
UNDO and 30 professionals to
NIDA fully restore the altar in
AV E
2001. Gregorian
PRAÇA DO
SITIO DOS
REIS
6 chanters add a special
touch to the Sunday
morning mass.
AV 10
DE SE
NOV
EM
BR
RUA
O
JU S
R 15 DE NO V EMB RO
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O G
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PRAÇA JOÃO 7 Museu de Arte

BE
ALFREDO
RUA SETE
Contemporânea is
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a fine 18th-century
RUA
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building and a former

RUA
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jail. This building now

POR
houses an interesting 8 Museu do Mamulengo displays

PRU
TO
collection of artwork a large collection of puppets from

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all over the Northeast. Unique to

SEG
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by contemporary
N
Olinda’s Carnaval, the giant puppets,

TE D
TO
Pernambucan artists.
UIR
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5 7 carried by revelers along the parade

E M
O
E. G
A
ES M route, are true works of art.
AV F I
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9 Rua do Amparo
0 meters 300 More than a dozen artists have set up their studios in the historic
buildings along Rua do Amparo. The street also boasts several
0 yards 300
excellent restaurants, cafés, and B&Bs.
For key to symbols see back flap
Exploring Olinda E Museu de Arte

Contemporânea
A calm, colonial city, Olinda grew to be the capital of the rich Rua 13 de Maio 149, Carmo.
sugar-growing region of Pernambuco. Reconstruction started Tel (81) 3184 3153. Open 9am–1pm
Tue–Sun.
in earnest only after Dutch forces were expelled in 1654.
Housed in a fine 18th-century
The city has maintained its 17th-century architectural fabric building that originally served
intact. Olinda is also home to a vibrant community of artists, as an ajube, or jail working in
musicians, and liberal professionals. The scenic city, though, conjunction with the Catholic
is most renowned for its lively Carnaval. church, the Museum of
Contemporary Art displays
both permanent and tem-
porary exhibits. During the
Inquisition, religious prisoners
were brought here to pray and
confess their sins. Today, the
place holds some interest for
those looking for serious
modern art. Works by local
contemporary artists are
regularly displayed in front
of the stairs.
E Museu do Mamulengo
The exterior of Igreja e Mosteiro de São Bento in Olinda Rua do Sao Bento 344. Tel (81) 3493
2753. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat.
R Convento de São R Igreja e Mosteiro de One of the region’s unique
Francisco São Bento gifts to the cultural scene in
Rua de São Francisco 280. Tel (81) 3429 Rua São Bento. Tel (81) 3316 3290. Brazil, mamulengo, or puppetry,
0517. Open 8am–noon & 2–5pm Mon– Open 8am–noon & 2–6:30pm daily. is showcased in this fascinating
Fri, 9am–noon & 2–4:30pm Sat. & 5 6:30am Mon–Sat, 10am & 6pm museum. Nearly 1,000 puppets
The Convento de São Francisco Sun (with Gregorian chants). are featured here, with a
was the first convent built by Built in 1582, this monastery portion of the collection
the Franciscan order in Brazil. was destroyed by the Dutch dating from the 1800s.
The complex includes a 1585 along with most of the city, Having performed before
church, Nossa Senhora das and rebuilt in the late 18th political figures, royalty,
Neves (Our Lady of the Snow), century. It is acclaimed for its and luminaries through the
and the adjacent chapels of Baroque altar in the chapel ages, these puppets are
St. Anne and St. Roque, built and intricate wood carving, today used as popular
in 1754 and 1811, respectively. which features the image of enter tainment. During folk
The highlight of the convent São Bento (St. Benedict) festivals, the puppets can be
is the beautiful arcade himself. In 2001, the original seen enacting comedies, skits,
surrounding the cloister. wood altar was repainted with and Pernambucan folk legends.
The tiled walls tell the story of gold leaf. The sacristy’s three For those interested in the
St. Francis of Assisi. The sacristy’s large paintings, by 18th-century puppets’ historical background,
beautiful Baroque furniture, artist José Eloy da Conceição, there is a curator who can
carved from dark jacaranda portray scenes from the life explain it by asking the
wood, is as impressive. of the saint. puppets themselves.
The Olinda Carnaval

Every year during Carnaval, the cobblestoned streets of Olinda
become the stage for a week-long street party. The meeting
place is the square, known as quarto cantos (four corners), on
the corner of Rua do Amparo and Rua Prudente de Moraes.
Here, blocos (neighborhood groups) begin their parades
through the streets, playing music, singing, and dancing as
they go. The blocos often have themes or names such as
“Virgins,” “Elephant,” or “Midnight Man.” Dominating the
festivities are enormous papier-mâché puppets that bloco
members proudly carry along the parade route. The music
Revelers filling a street in Olinda, with varies from frevo, an upbeat, almost frenetic beat unique to
larger-than-life papier-mâché puppets Pernambuco, to maracatu, a much more African beat.
q Ilha de Itamaracá
Pernambuco. * 16,000.
@ from Recife.
The island of Itamaracá played

an important strategic role
during the Dutch interregnum
in Brazil. In 1631, the Dutch built
the Forte Orange here, to
protect their new domain from
invading forces. The Portuguese
destroyed the Dutch-built adobe
when they took over in 1654.
However, the location was so
unique that the Portuguese Pottery on display at a craft shop in Caruaru
created a new fort in stone on
the site. During past renovations, The eastern part of Itamaracá, west of Caruaru, still specializes
artifacts dating back to the with its lovely ocean beaches, in producing figurines. Casa
Dutch period were found. Just is also a popular weekend Museu Mestre Vitalino in Alto
across from the fort is a small destination. do Moura is dedicated to this
island, Coroa do Avião, which has great artist, and displays his tools
natural reef pools. Boat tours to P Forte Orange and some personal possessions.
the island leave from the beach Estrada do Forte. Open 9am–5pm Caruaru’s open market is the
in front of the fort. Mon–Sat, 8am–5pm Sun. & largest in the Northeast, and is a
Itamaracá is also home to the O Projeto Peixe Boi very popular tourist attraction.
Projeto Peixe Boi, a manatee Estrada do Forte Orange. Tel (81) 3544 Besides figurines, leather bags,
research and rehabilitation 1056. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. straw baskets, and ceramic pots
center. Manatees live along the &7 are also sold at some of
Brazilian coast from Alagoas to the best prices in
Amapá, but are threatened by Brazil. Apart from a
loss of habitat, as well as by w Caruaru bustling market
speedboats and their often- Pernambuco. * 300,000. @ from scene, Caruaru,
lethal outboard propellers. Recife. _ Festa do Forró (Jun–Jul). known as the
Scientists estimate that there ∑ caruaru.pe.gov.br capital of forró (see
are only around 400 animals in p240), hosts Brazil’s
the wild along this coast. The Located 100 miles (160 km) largest month-long
center works to rehabilitate on the mainland southwest of forró festival. The
injured manatees, and to study Itamaracá, Caruaru is a market Museu do Barro
those that cannot be released. town whose fame rests on its pays tribute to
A natural history exhibit on the marvelous ceramic figurinhas Luis Gonzaga, Figurine, Casa
manatee is offered along with (figurines). Artist Vitalino Perreira the father of Museu Mestre
a host of interactive learning dos Santos (1909–63) made forró music. Vitalino
activities for children. Visitors are many of these brightly painted
only allowed to observe those sculptures, and his hometown, Environs
animals that cannot be released Alto de Moura, a community of Situated 17 miles (30 km)
into the wild. potters located 4 miles (6 km) northwest of Caruaru, Nova
Jerusalém is an intriguing
re-creation of Jerusalem. In the
week before Easter, thousands
of people flock to watch an epic
performance of the Paixão de
Cristo (Passion of Christ). Local
tour operators offer all-inclusive
packages to the town and its
annual play.
E Casa Museu Mestre Vitalino

Rua Mestre Vitalino 281. Tel (81) 3725
0805. Open 8am–5:30pm Mon–Sat,
8am–noon Sun.
E Museu do Barro
Praça José de Vasconcelos. Tel (81)
3721 2545. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sat,
Rehabilitated manatees at the Projeto Peixe Boi, Ilha de Itamaracá 9am–1pm Sun.
e Fernando de Noronha ATL ANT I C

OC E AN
Discovered in 1503 by Amerigo Vespucci, the 21-island
archipelago of Fernando de Noronha was fought over for the
next two centuries by the French, Dutch, and Portuguese,
who built forts on strategic lookout points. The island, located
220 miles (354 km) off the coast, was used in a variety of ways,
including as a political prison during World War II. In 1988, the Key
Parque Nacional Marinho de Fernando de Noronha was Park boundary
created in order to protect the fragile marine and island
ecology of the archipelago. Today, a combination of crystal-
clear water, fascinating wildlife, diverse marine life which
includes multicolored fish, turtles, sharks, and whales, and
stunning beaches make Fernando de Noronha one of the
most beautiful destinations in Brazil. One of the best ways to
explore the island is to rent a buggy.
Surfing on Praia
do Boldró
Fernando de
Noronha offers
some of Brazil’s best
surfing, but only
between December
and March.
Praia do
Boldró
. Baía do Sancho Praia Cacimba RRO

The most beautiful and isolated beach on do Padre MO
Noronha, Baía do Sancho is also a snorkelers’
paradise with its clear, turquoise waters and Praia da Baía
myriad tropical fish. Praia da Baía do do Porcos
Sancho
B A ÍA D OS N DO
GOL F IN H OS
R NA
FE
O
RR
M OA N C O
B R
Praia
DA do Leão
RRO HA
MO ABIN I LHA MO R R O
IX
QU DO LEÃO
. Spinner Dolphins
Hundreds of dolphins gather at Ponta Capim
sunrise to leap and spin at Dolphin Açu
Cove in the Baía dos Golfinhos.
KEY
. Turtle Hatchlings
1 Praia do Meio is located Ilha Morro do Leão is a prime
close to the ruins of Forte Nossa hatchery for green sea
Senhora Conceição. turtles. Between December
and May, around sunset,
2 Baía do Sueste is the site for the scores of tiny turtle
Projecto Tamar (see p211), and it is hatchlings break out of
possible to swim with the turtles. their shells and make a
dash for the sea.
Morro do Pico VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The sharp basalt finger of Morro
do Pico, a testament to the island’s Practical Information
volcanic heritage, stands 1,053 ft Pernambuco. * 2,500.
(321 m) above sea level. n Divisão de Turismo, Palácio
São Miguel, Vila dos Remédios
(81) 3619 1352, or Projecto Tamar,
Alameda do Boldró (81) 3619
1171. & environmental tax
assessed on all visitors to the
island; to be paid on arrival at the
airport. License required for scuba
ILHA DO diving in national parks.
RATA ∑ noronha.pe.gov.br
Transport
~ from Recife or Natal
ILHA DO
MEIO
ILHA
RASA
Ponta de
Santo Antônio
Praia de
Santo Antônio
Forte dos Buraco da
Remédios Raquel
Praia do
Meio Vila dos
O Remédios
PIC
DO
Vila do
Trinta . Praia da Atalaia
A
CÉ DO
H A shelf of volcanic rock extends out into the

ON
S
AN O
R surf line. At low tide, tropical fish take refuge

FR RR
NO
O
in the natural pools.

M
DE
DO Praia da
R R O I S TA Atalaia
V
M OAO Diving & Marine Life
B
Protected as a marine national park, Fernando de Noronha offers
BAÍA the best scuba diving in Brazil. Greatly suited for diving, its water
DO temperature is a constant 28º C (82º F), and the depth of underwater
SUESTE
visibility is almost 98 ft (30 m). Underwater there is an astounding
variety of marine life – rays of all types, green sea turtles, and the even
rarer hawksbill turtle, monkfish, lemon sharks and reef sharks,
clownfish hiding in anemones, surgeon fish, and parrotfish are just
0 km 1 some varieties. As a result of the island’s volcanic heritage there are
also numerous swim-throughs.
0 miles 1
Key
Major road
Minor road
Trail
Park boundary A school of surgeon fish in the coral reefs of Fernando de Noronha

PARAÍBA, RIO GRANDE DO

NORTE & CEARÁ
Pristine beaches, lively beach towns, and massive shifting
sand dunes are the main attractions of these three states. Natal, the
capital of Rio Grande do Norte, and João Pessoa are pleasant, historic
cities with good urban beaches. However, this part
of Northeast Brazil is best experienced along its coast, and in its quiet,
relaxed fishing villages and beautiful, isolated beaches.
In 1532, Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and west of Fortaleza. Parque Nacional
and Ceará were among the first states de Ubajara lies in western Ceará and
in the Northeast to be colonized by the comprises caves, eco trails, and
Portuguese. These states never grew as magnificent waterfalls.
rich or settled as their more southerly Rio Grande do Norte lies in the extreme
neighbors because sugar cane did not northeast corner of Brazil. The real growth
thrive here. However, the three states industry here is tourism. Natal, the capital
have taken advantage of the constant city, has become one the Northeast’s
sunshine and beautiful beaches and main points of entry for tourists from
have developed tourism as the mainstay Western Europe. Nearly all come here
of the economy. for the sunshine and beaches.
Ceará is famous for its beaches, Wedged in between Pernambuco and
with their warm, turquoise waters, set Rio Grande do Norte, Paraíba boasts some
against a backdrop of red sandstone of Brazil’s least spoilt beaches. Agriculture
cliffs. The most popular include Morro plays an important role in the state
Branco and the lively beach town of economy. The capital, João Pessoa, is a
Canoa Quebrada, both located to pleasant city with a small historic center.
the southeast of Fortaleza, and the The city of Campina Grande is famous for
isolated beach of Jericoacoara, north its June festival, the Festas Juninas.
View of the Rio Branco and João Pessoa, Paraíba

Traditional wickerwork for sale at Mercado Central, Fortaleza
Exploring Paraíba, Rio Grande do

Norte & Ceará
Most visitors to the states of Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte, and
Ceará focus on the natural beauty of the beaches and the coastline.
The most popular gateway destinations are Natal in Rio Grande
and Fortaleza in Ceará, which offer easy access to most of the
region’s attractions. Paraíba’s capital, João Pessoa, with its colonial
buildings, parks, and beaches, is a pleasant place to visit. In the
interior of Paraíba, the monster rock formations in Cariri offer
an almost other-worldly experience. Dinosaur fossils, discovered
in Souza, have made the place archaeologically
important. The harsh, arid interior landscape
of these states has a unique, stark beauty.
Camocim JERICOACOARA
Barroquinha Acaraú
Icaraí
Granja Morrinhos
Trairi
Amontada
Sights at a Glance
raú
Santana
Aca
Towns & Cities Coreaú C
do Acarau Umirim
1 João Pessoa pp234–5 Tianguá Sobral
2 Campina Grande
ba
4 Souza PARQUE NACIONAL Pentecostes

DE UBAJARA
5 Natal
pa
São Benedito
7 Genipabu São Luis Paramoti
Reriutaba
Ibia
0 Mossoró
Ipu Açude
w Fortaleza pp246–7 Araras Santa Canindé
Quitéria
National Parks Ipueiras Nova
r Parque Nacional de Ubajara Russas Madalena
Tamboril
Serra da
Areas of Natural Beauty Quixadá

C E A R Á
3 Cariri Boa Viagem
Crateús
8 Maracajaú Quixeramobim
9 Costa Branca Senador
q Canoa Quebrada Pompeu
e Jericoacoara
ibe
Novo
Oriente
uar
Mombaça
Beaches & Resort
Jag
iu
bu
6 Rota do Sol Beaches p241 a na
Taua B Acopiara
Parambu
Catarina Açude
Orós
Iguatu
Saboeiro
Brasília
Antonina
do Norte
Campos
Sales Potengi Juàzeiro
do Norte
Araripe
Crato
Jardim
Downtown João Pessoa from across the lagoon

PA R A Í B A , R I O G R A N D E D O N O R T E & C E A R Á 233
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
State border
Colorful old buildings in the historic center of Fortaleza
Getting Around
All major cities and some smaller destinations, such as Campina
Grande in Paraíba, can be reached by domestic flights. There are
regular buses between all towns and cities. However, roads in this
part of Brazil are in poor condition and are very badly maintained.
Cumbuco
The BR-101 connects João Pessoa to Natal. From Natal, travelers
Caucaia continuing north to Fortaleza take the BR-304, which veers west
FORTALEZA and cuts inland across Rio Grande do Norte to Ceará. The stretch
of the BR-230 towards Souza is in rough shape. Ensure that the
Pacatuba vehicle, preferably a 4WD, is in good condition. Be sure to carry
Cascavel
extra gas, water, and supplies.
Pacajus
Baturité
Aracati
CANOA QUEBRADA
Jaguaruana
COSTA BRANCA
Russas Areia Branca São Bento do Norte
Macau
Morada
Nova Limeoeiro MOSSORÓ Touros
do Norte
i
João
od
Câmara
Ap
Taipu MARACAJAÚ
Assu
Jaguaretama Apodi RIO GRANDE GENIPABU
Ceará Mirim
Caraúbas Macaíba NATAL
has
Pereiro DO NORTE Ponta Negra

an
Pau dos Patu

P ir
Ferros Currais Novos Tangará

ROTA DO SOL
Orós Goianinha BEACHES
rí Praia da Pipa
Icó Luís Acarí ai
Gomes
São Bento
Caicó Picuí Tr Canguaretama
Nova Cruz
SOUZA
Pombal Santa Rio Tinto
Guarabira
Luzia
Cajazeiras Cabedelo
Patos Esperança
P A R A Í B A Alagoa Santa Rita
CAMPINA JOÃO
Teixeira GRANDE Grande
Itaporanga PESSOA
Milagres CARIRI
Conceição Pitimbu
Sumé Recife
Alcantil
Monteiro
Sáo João
0 km 50
do Tiger
0 miles 50

1 João Pessoa
Founded in 1585 as Nossa Senhora das Neves, the city derives
its present name from a former governor of Paraíba. Brazil’s
third-oldest city, João Pessoa maintains an air of old-world
charm, with a host of well-restored colonial churches,
convents, and monasteries. Local visitors, however, flock here
mainly for the easy atmosphere of its great white sandy
beaches along the coastline. The dense tropical forest that
once covered the coastal strip of Paraíba now thrives only in
patches, one of which lies within João Pessoa, forming one of
the largest areas of natural wilderness in any city in the world.
Rococo-style painting on Igreja de São

Francisco’s ceiling
the ceiling of the church depicts

various images of St. Francis. Even
older than the church by a few
decades is a stone cross across the
courtyard. The church is part of
the larger Centro Cultural de Sao
Francisco complex, which also
includes the Convento de Santo
Antônio, chapels, and a museum
of popular and sacred art, the
result of grand-scale reforms
Majestic colonial buildings, Centro Histórico carried out in 1718 and 1788.
Exploring João Pessoa R Igreja de São Francisco P Mosteiro de São Bento

One of the oldest and less Praça São Francisco, Centro Histórico. Rua General Osório, Centro Histórico.
developed cities in Brazil, João Tel (83) 3218 4505. Open 9am–5pm Tel (83) 3241 1093. Open 8:30am–
Pessoa has a small historic core, Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat & Sun. & 8 4pm Mon–Fri. 5 7am.
which remains little changed One of the most spectacular Built in the 17th century, this
despite the modernization churches in the city sits majes- working monastery is a shining
drive. It is located a bit inland, tically atop a hill that bears the example of simplicity. Its
on a small hill overlooking the same name. The most striking unembellished, well-restored
Rio Sanhauá and Rio Paraíba. feature of this impressive 18th- interior features a curved
Modern João Pessoa, with fast century church is the tower wooden ceiling.
emerging skyscrapers, gravitates topped with an oriental dome.
towards the beaches. Due to a The altar contains an 18th- L Praia de Tambaú
state law restricting the height century statue of St. Benedict, 4 miles (7 km) E of city center.
of buildings within 490 ft (150 m) one of the few black saints. The João Pessoa’s most popular
of the shoreline to four stories beautiful Rococo-style painting on urban beach is Praia de Tambaú,
or less, the waterfront is free a 4-mile- (7-km-) long stretch of
of the curtain wall of concrete sand lined with restaurants,
high-rises that afflict some cafés, and interesting food and
other Brazilian beachfronts. craft stalls. In the evenings,
locals stroll the seawall, enjoying
R Catedral Basílica de Nossa the cool breeze.
Senhora das Neves
Rua General Osório, Centro. Tel (83) L Praia do Cabo Branco
3221 2503. Open 2–5pm Mon–Fri, S of Praia do Tambaú.
5–7pm Sat. 5 5pm Mon–Fri, 7:30pm Better suited for swimming
Sat, 6am, 9am, 7:30pm Sun. & than Tambaú, Cabo Branco is a
After four major renovations residential beach area looking
little remains of the original out over the easternmost point
cathedral built in 1586. The in the Americas, Ponta do Seixas
interior maintains a striking (Seixas Point). The point juts out
harmony, unlike many of the into the ocean, and is topped by
elaborate Rococo-style Façade of Igreja de São Francisco, João a small lighthouse, with a
churches in Brazil. Pessoa’s celebrated church monument marking the spot.
JOÃO PESSOA 235
} Ilha de Picãozinho north of Tambaú. Trips to this VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

N of Praia de Tambaú. 8 island can be arranged by
Actually a large coral reef, Ilha travel agencies. Practical Information
de Picãozinho is a popular spot. Paraíba. * 723,000. n Sectur,
At low tide, boats depart from L Praia Tambaba Parque Solonde Lucena 216, (83)
Praia do Tambaú, and take 19 miles (30 km) S of town. 3218 9852.
visitors over to swim and Tambaba is a beautiful, secluded Transport
snorkel in the natural tide pools. nude beach with lush vege- ~ 7 miles (11 km) W of city
Fish and starfish can be easily tation, small reefs, and tide pools. center. @ Rodoviária at Rua
observed in the crystal-clear Two coves make up this splendid Francisco Londres, Varadouro.
water. Check the tide table for beach. Clothing is optional on
specific times daily before one of the coves. The other
taking a dip. For a few days cove, which is exclusively a gate and allows men only if
every month, the tide is too nudist beach, is closed off by a accompanied by women.
high for the reef to be visited.
} Ilha de Areia Vermelha

12 miles (20 km) N of town. 8
Another low-tide attraction is
Ilha de Areia Vermelha (Island
of Red Sand). For approximately
25 days every month, low tide
exposes a beautiful beach of
striking red-orange sand, a short
distance off the coast of Joāo
Pessoa. With a choice of floating
bars, it makes a perfect spot for
swimming, snorkeling, or
sunbathing. The temporary
island is accessible from Praia
da Camboinhas, 8 miles (13 km) Low tide at the expansive Ilha de Areia Vermelha
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0 km 4
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0 miles 2 Intermares
João Pessoa City Center
ATLANTIC
1 Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora Bessa
OCEAN
das Neves 230
a
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2 Igreja de São Francisco Ilha de

ra
Picãozinho
Pa
3 Mosteiro de São Bento Manaira

4 Praia de Tambaú
0 meters 500 Area of João Pessoa Praia de
5 Praia do Cabo Branco town map Tambaú
Praia
Tambaba
6 Ilha de Picãozinho 0 yards 500
19 miles
Praia do (30 km)
7 Ilha de Areia Vermelha Cabo Branco
8 Praia Tambaba

2 Campina Grande
Paraíba. * 400,000. ~ @ from João
Pessoa. n Rua 13 de Maio 329, (83)
3310 6100. _ Micarande (late Apr),
Festas Juninas (Jun).
Ideal for experiencing the

unique sertão culture, Campina
Grande is a large market
town with some degree of
industrial growth.
The autumn harvest festival,
Festas Juninas, although
celebrated everywhere in the
Northeast, is biggest in Campina
Grande. The vast, purpose-built The Lajedo do Pai Mateus rock formation, Cariri
fairground, Parque do Povo,
includes several smaller theme 3 Cariri the local epithet, “Devil’s Marbles.”
parks such as the Sítio São João, Paraíba. @ from Campina Grande. 8
The most remarkable of these
a reproduction of a traditional Cariri Ecotours, (84) 9660 1818. granite monsters is the Pedra
ranch where visitors can ∑ caririecotours.com.br do Capacete (Helmet Stone), a
observe the rural nordeste 20-ft- (6-m-) high boulder that is
lifestyle, and the Arraial Hilton Situated in the Cariri Paraíbano, open in the front and hollow
Motta, a replica of a small a large plateau in the Serra da underneath, resembling a huge
interior town. Borborema, Cariri is the point at war helmet.
The Museu de Arte Assis which the sertão proper begins. From the plateau, there are
Chateaubriand has a striking Tours in this area of aboriginal breathtaking views of the
collection of modern works, rock carvings and huge rock Borborema valley. The diverse
with a focus on the work of formations can be organized by landscape consists of small trees,
artists from the Northeast. Cariri Ecotours, based in Ponta bushes, cacti, and bromeliads.
Negra, Natal. Sightings of emu birds, an
E Museu de Arte Assis One of the formations, the ostrich-like avian, are common
Chateaubriand Lajedo do Pai Mateus, sits on in this area.
Av Floriano Peixoto 718. Open 9am– the private grounds of a fazenda.
noon, 2–10pm Mon–Fri. A vast slab of bare granite, it is
Parque do Povo littered with boulders bigger than 4 Souza
Tel (83) 3310 6100. Open only during houses, as if a giant had scattered Paraíba. * 60,000. @ from Campina
Festas Juninas. & 7 his collection of pebbles – hence Grande. 8 Cariri Ecotours, (84) 9660
1818. ∑ caririecotours.com.br
Brazil’s most important

prehistoric site, Souza is located
deep in the Paraíba interior,
almost on the border with
Ceará. It was a large shallow lake
where hundreds of dinosaur
species roamed, 130 million
years ago. Today, the dry
riverbed of the Rio de Peixe,
also known as the Vale dos
A night scene of Campina Grande, lit up during the Festas Juninas Dinossauros, contains one of
the world’s best collections of
Festas Juninas dinosaur tracks. The largest and
One of the most popular folklore traditions of the Northeast, best track forms a perfect 164-
the Festas Juninas began as a peasant celebration of the corn ft- (50-m-) long trail across the
harvest and the June solstice, the longest night of the year in meandering riverbed.
the Southern Hemisphere. June also coincided with the feasts Scattered throughout the
of St. Anthony, St. John, and St. Peter. Over the years, the pagan valley are numerous other
rituals and Catholic events were melded together. The atmos- tracks, most of which have
phere is burlesque, as partygoers dress up in peasant outfits and not yet been catalogued or
perform square dances to the sounds of forró (see p240). Bonfires protected. Some, indeed, have
are lit and fireworks sent aloft to safeguard the harvest and ward yet to be discovered. Manary
off evil spirits, as well as to bring light to the long night. Ecotours can combine trips in
this area with visits to Cariri.
The Sertão
The sertão is a geographic region that encompasses almost half the territory of the
Northeast. Aridity is its single most important characteristic. Rainfall is sparse, and the
vegetation is primarily caatinga, which consists of small trees and bushes. Agriculture
is difficult in the sertão, which makes it one of Brazil’s poorest regions.
Traditionally, sertanejos have made a living herding goats or cattle. One of the
country’s original cowboy regions, the sertão has also seen the largest outflow of
people in Brazil. Hard climatic conditions forced en masse migrations either to the
coast, or to the big cities such as São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Not just the dislocated
northeasterners, or nordestinos, but all Brazilians have an affinity for the sertão way
of life: forró music is loved throughout the country, and Brazil’s popular culture
abounds with sertanejo stories and images.
After a sudden rain, the dry

land will turn green and lush
for a short period.
Palma cactus is often the only

food available to livestock. The
tough, chewy leaves are ground
into a paste and used as cattle feed.
Caatinga, the vegetation growing in this arid landscape, consists of

cacti, bromeliads, and scrubby trees and bushes. These plant species
are suitable to the challenging conditions of the sertão.
Goats are the most

Rio São Francisco is one of
important livestock in
the main water sources in the
the sertão. More
sertão. Large irrigation projects
adaptable than other
are using the water to make
animals, the goat
agriculture possible. Many
thrives in the dry and
areas in Pernambuco grow
hot conditions. It is an
fruits and vegetables.
important source of
meat, milk, and leather.
Luiz Gonzaga (1912–89), Brazil’s

Nordestino markets are where homesick communities of most famous “Son of the Sertão,”
migrants from the Northeast meet, listen to forró, and eat was a forró musician. Most of his
some of their favorite foods. São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro songs celebrated or lamented the
have the largest sertanejo immigrant communities. life of those living in the sertão.
A palm-lined beach in Fortaleza

View of the small chapel in the central courtyard of the Forte dos Reis Magos
5 Natal five-pointed formation before offer some regional dishes.

Rio Grande do Norte. * 800,000. k
turning it back over to the On Thursday evenings, the
@ n Centro de Turismo, (84) 3211 Portuguese in 1654. Access courtyard of the old prison
6149. _ Carnatal (Dec). to the fort is via a narrow becomes an outdoor dance
pedestrian walkway. At high hall, as the center plays host
Natal is a pleasant, modern, and tide, the fort is cut off from to forró com o turista, an
safe city, increasingly sought out land by the waves. Visitors evening of forró dancing,
as a sunshine destination for have the full run of the fort, with live music and
winter-weary Europeans. Natal from the garrisons and the instructors on hand to
has several attractions, including mess hall to the high help shy and left-footed
beautiful beaches, dune buggy ramparts, which offer terrific foreigners with the
rides, unusual sand art, and an views of the city skyline. dance steps.
incredible nightlife. The city and Natal was never a large Most visitors to Natal
its most famous landmark, Forte trading center, and there stay in Ponta Negra, a
dos Reis Magos, date back to are few historic buildings. waterfront neighborhood
December 25, 1598, when the The city’s 19th-century in a modern part of the city
Portuguese established a fort penitentiary has been featuring a lovely long
and settlement at the mouth converted into the Centro Sand art in beach with good waves
of the Rio Potengi. In honor of de Turismo, a showcase bottle for surfing. At the far end
the season, the city was named for regional arts and crafts. of the beach the Morro
Natal, the Portuguese word for Each of the dozens of prison do Careca, a towering 390-ft
Christmas. The fort was named cells along four corridors has (120-m) sand dune, is now off-
after the three wise kings of been transformed into a shop limits to climbers because of
the east who had traveled to selling leatherwork, lace, the danger of erosion.
Bethlehem bearing gifts. The hammocks, and figurines from On the coast between the old
Dutch occupied the fort in 1633, northeastern folk festivals. downtown and the modern
upgrading it into its current A restaurant and a cafeteria parts of Natal there stands the
Parque das Dunas, a 12-sq-mile
(6-sq-km) reserve of coastal
Forró dunes. The park has several
According to local legend, the trails, but can only be visited
musical style known as forró is said with a guide.
to have been inspired by visiting
foreigners. In the early days of ( Centro de Turismo
World War II, the Americans Rua Aderbal de Figueiredo 980.
created a massive air base near the Tel (84) 3211 6149. Open 9am–7pm
city. Locals invited the American daily. 7
airmen to their parties, and to
make sure they felt welcome they P Forte dos Reis Magos
put up signs proclaiming that Praia do Forte. Tel (84) 3211 3820.
simplified dances with a two-step Open 8am–4:30pm daily. &
rhythm, were “for all.” The label
Y Parque das Dunas
stuck to the musical style, though
Couples dancing to the lively music in common speech “for all” Av Alexandrino de Alencar s/n.
of forró became forró. Tel (84) 3201 3985. Open 8am–6pm
Tue–Sun. & 8
6 Rota do Sol Beaches

Head south from Natal on the Rota do Sol (Route of the Sun),
for beaches and more beaches, stretching from the edge of the
city to the far southern border of the state. Variety is the key
feature of this golden stretch of coast. There are beaches with
small reefs and little surf, and others with strong and steady
waves, much loved by avid surfers. There are deserted beaches
surrounded by tall dunes, accessible only by dune buggy or
4WD, far from the hustle and bustle of even the smallest
fishing village. Other beaches, particularly Pipa, are full to
Mãe Luiza lighthouse north of
bursting with energetic young Brazilians. Ponta Negra
Praia do Pinto
NATAL
Praia Mãe
Luiza
Parque das
Dunas
304 Ponta Negra
Paramirim Pium Praia Pium
Praia do 1 Ponta Negra

63 Cotovelo Located within the city limits,
Praia de
2 Búzios Pirangi do Norte Pirangi Ponta Negra is the favorite and
101
Búzios offers high do Norte best-known beach in Natal, lively
dunes and excellent Búzios during the day and night.
opportunities for
snorkeling. Lagoa
do Bonfim
São José de Praia da
Tabatinga
Mipibu
3 Praia da Tabatinga
Nísia Praia
Barra de Tabatinga has Floresta Camurupim
scenic high cliffs and Lagoa
Nísia Floresta
great surfing waves. Barreta
Dolphins can be spotted Senador Georgino
at high tide. Avelino
Lagoa Tibaú
Guaraíras do Sul
Arês
Praia do Madeiro
4 Barreta 101
5 Tibaú do Sul
Deserted and circled by Praia da Pipa This small fishing
dunes, Barreta is best 2
Praia do Amor
village offers high-
explored by buggy. end accom-
Goianinha Praia das Minas modations and a
Barra do Cunhaú deserted beach.
Vila Flor
Praia da Barra
do Cunhaú
269 Baía Formosa
62 Praia Baía
Formosa
Canguaretama
6 Praia da Pipa
The most popular spot on the coast, Praia do Cotia
the village of Pipa is known for its
nightlife and restaurants. 101
Praia do Sagi
7 Praia do Sagi
The wild beaches, located at the 0 km 6
southernmost point of Rio Grande do Sul,
0 miles 6
are all but deserted.

8 Maracajaú
Rio Grande do Norte. @ Open at low
tide only.
Maracajaú’s coral reefs offer

one of the best spots for
snorkeling along the whole of
Brazil’s north coast. The reefs lie
approximately 4 miles (7 km)
offshore. At low tide, the
receding ocean leaves the reefs
from just 3 to 9 ft (1 to 3 m)
underwater, and forms natural
pools, called parrachos, which
combine the beauty of the
tranquil water with a spec-
tacular array of marine life.
They are shallow enough for
Snorkeling in the coral reefs, Maracajaú snorkelers and swimmers to
observe dozens of species of
7 Genipabu is the perfect place to start. This colorful, tropical fish trapped
Rio Grande do Norte. * 5,000. k
area of 164-ft (50-m) tall shifting inside the reefs. The water is
Natal Airport. @ n Associação dos dunes is off-limits to all but crystal clear and warm round
Bugueiros do Rio Grande do Norte, licensed buggy drivers who the year, making it a popular
(84) 3225 2077. know their way around every destination for scuba divers and
hump and dip. Passengers have swimmers alike. Tour operators
The main reason to visit the option of requesting a ride offer scuba-diving trips, but the
Genipabu is to experience the “com ou sem emoção” (with or water is so shallow, it is hardly
magnificent dunes. This small without the thrills and heart worth the effort or expense.
town is located north of Natal, palpitations). Well worth The best way to reach
close to the edge of an requesting, the thrill-ride is Maracajaú is by a dune buggy,
impressive landscape of shifting an amazing roller coaster of departing from Natal (or
sands that pile up into high maneuvers up and down along Genipabu) and traveling north
dunes and plunge down to the the slippery front faces of the along the white, sandy beaches.
edge of the Atlantic Ocean. dunes, descending at almost Check the tide tables to time
Though it is possible to ride a 90-degree angles before the journey in order to arrive in
camel through the dunes or zooming straight up another Maracajaú at, or a few hours
sandboard down them, the best dune on the far side. before, low tide. The large
way to enjoy these enormous The best time of day to visit Manoa Water Park, replete
ridges of sand is behind the roll the Parque das Dunas is in the with slides and swimming
bar of a dune buggy with an afternoon, to enjoy the lovely pools, en route to the coral reefs
experienced driver at the wheel. golden sunset over the dunes in Maracajaú, is an enjoyable
The Parque Dunas de Genipabu after the ride. stop for children.
Tourists enjoying a buggy ride on the white sand dunes in Genipabu

Sailboats, known as jangadas, on Tibaú beach, one of the beach-villages along Costa Branca
9 Costa Branca The largest village on this coast, interior. The main places of
Rio Grande do Norte. @ n
Areia Branca has around 20,000 interest in Mossoró are
Catavento Turismo, (85) 3433 6999. residents and offers the best connected to a glorious
tourist facilities for those moment in history in 1924,
The Costa Branca lies in the wanting to spend a few days when the townspeople
extreme northwest of Rio exploring the region. Tibaú is fought off an attack by the
Grande do Norte. Starting at the last village in Rio Grande legendary bandit leader
Porto do Mangue, it do Norte, right on the Lampião and his gang of
stretches across the villages border with Ceará. Its outlaws. The event is still
of Areia Branca and beach is mostly used by commemorated every June 13
Grossos and ends at residents of the inland city with great ceremony.
Tibaú. The name “Costa of Mossoró. Local artisans Mossoró is an ideal jumping-
Branca” refers to both the use sand from the off point for visiting the Lajedo
white dunes and the salt colored dunes to make de Soledade, an archaeological
works found along this artistic and pretty site. Its limestone rocks were
coast. The region has not Sand design in designs inside small formed more than 90 million
yet been discovered by glass bottle glass bottles. years ago. Tours begin at the
mass tourism, and its visitors’ center, at the Museu de
beaches, mangroves, dunes, Soledade. From here, visitors
and lagoons are blissfully 0 Mossoró can depart on a guided walk
devoid of crowds. Praia do Rio Grande do Norte. * 225,000.
featuring 10,000-year-old rock
Rosado, just west of Porto do ~ @ n Rua Ruy Barbosa 282 paintings, and impressive fossils
Mangue, is famous for its (84) 3315 4814. _ Batalha do containing the remains of
pinkish sand dunes. The red soil Mossoró (Jun). extinct animals, including saber-
underneath the shifting dunes toothed tigers.
mixes with the white sand of Located 34 miles (55 km) inland
the beach giving the dunes an from the coast, Mossoró is, in T Lajedo de Soledade
unusual and distinctly soft, many ways, the archetypal Tel (84) 3333 1017. Open 7am–noon
pink hue. sertão town of the northeastern & 1–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8
Repentistas
Repentista is a popular form of entertainment in the interior of the Northeast. Its singers engage
in a two-man musical duel, making their rhymes up on the spot, trying to score points off their
opponent. Singers sometimes accompany themselves with a tambourine or the melodious viola
nordestina, developed from the Portuguese seven-string
guitar. The singing duelists take turns singing out a stanza,
trying to win the favor of the audience by making fun of
their opponent, preferably with a clever bit of rhyme.
The adversary’s manhood, sexual prowess, and ancestry
are common topics, but politics and day-to-day events also
play into the mix. In big cities with significant nordestino
populations, such as São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro, repentistas
make money on the downtown streets by creating
impromptu songs to entertain homesick migrants. Repentistas performing
q Canoa Quebrada
Ceará. * 65,300. @ from Fortaleza.
n Secretaría de Turismo, (88) 3446
2451. ∑ canoaviagens.com.br
In just over four decades,

Canoa Quebrada has trans-
formed from a sleepy fishing
village to a popular hippy
hangout in the 1970s, and now
a mainstream beach resort.
According to a legend, the
name Canoa Quebrada,
meaning “Broken Canoe,”
originated with a Portuguese
skipper who wrecked his ship
close to shore and donated
the useless craft to local fisher-
men. Never having seen such
a craft before, locals named it
a broken canoe.
The beaches of Canoa
Quebrada, featuring red cliffs,
fine sand, and offshore reefs,
attract many visitors today. The
village itself is a bustling place,
known for its cafés and Beach along the fishing village of Jericoacoara
restaurants, and for the bars
and clubs lining the main About 6 miles (10 km) e Jericoacoara
cobblestone street. It is also northwest is the small town Ceará. * 2,000. @ from Fortaleza.
famous for its lacework. Even at of Aracati. It is one of the few ∑ jericoacoara.com
the busiest times, however, it is historic towns in this part of
not difficult to get away from Northeast Brazil. An important The isolated village of
the crowds and find a spot on center for the 18th-century Jericoacoara is a beach lover’s
one of the more deserted cattle industry, Aracati has paradise. Although no longer
beaches or high sand dunes several buildings dating back to the sleepy fishing community
surrounding Canoa Quebrada. this time. Most noteworthy is it once was, it preserves
Buggy tours are a popular way the Mercado Central (Central much of its original charm.
to get out of town. The tour to Market), dating back to the The village consists of five
Ponta Grossa, 18 miles (30 km) 1700s, still used as the town’s streets made of sand, and
southeast, travels along miles daily open-air market on houses and apartments are
of empty beaches framed by Rua Pompeu. simple, even rustic. In 2002, the
high red sandstone cliffs. entire region was declared a
Other activities include kite- national park, putting a com-
surfing, riding, and sailing on
w Fortaleza plete halt to the construction
a jangada (sailboat). See pp246–7. of new buildings.
Red sandstone cliffs in and around the beaches of Canoa Quebrada

The spectacular Ubajara Cave in Parque Nacional de Ubajara
Surrounded by dunes and features the Ubajara Cave. inside are Pedra do Sino (Bell
lagoons, Jeri (as locals call it) is a The entrance to the cave can Stone), Salas da Rosa (Rose
place for those who like water, be reached either by cable car Rooms), Sala do Cavalo (Horse
waves, and wind. From June to (9am–3pm Fri–Sun) or via a Room), and Sala dos Retratos
January, the winds pick up and steep, marked trail through the (Portrait Room). The cave is also
kitesurfers, windsurfers, and forest. The 3,937-ft- (1,200-m-) home to 14 different types of bat.
sailors from around the world long cave is filled with The elevation gain is just over
flock to Jeri. stalactites and stalagmites, the 1,640 ft (500 m), and the trail
Dune buggies are used to work of several patient centuries leading up to the cave, though
explore the surrounding of erosion and calcium rather strenuous, offers some
beaches and dunes and visit deposition. spectacular views of the Serra
the various lagoons. The most Fifteen chambers totaling da Ipiapaba and several
beautiful are Lagoa Azul and 3,674 ft (1,120 m) have been waterfalls and beautiful natural
Lagoa do Paraíso, located mapped, of which 1,182 ft pools. The hike takes about two
about 12 miles (20 km) east of (360 m) are open to visitors. hours, one-way. There are also
the village. Jeri’s postcard view Eight galleries are lit up to display many local guides available
is that of Pedra Furada, a basalt some of the amazing formations here to show visitors around
outcrop, on the edge of the sea that have taken shape inside the the park’s eco trails, caves,
with a 13-ft (4-m) hole in the cave. The main formations seen and waterfalls.
middle. It sits on the beach at
Praia Malhada, about 2 miles
(3 km) east, a 15-minute walk Buggies
from the village. The red rock Dune buggies are found everywhere on Brazil’s northeastern coast.
glows in the late afternoon light Essentially a Volkswagen Beetle chassis with a fiberglass body and
and from June to September, soft, fat tires, the Brazilian dune buggy is the perfect vehicle for
the aperture lines up perfectly exploring the endless beaches and towering sand dunes that
with the tropical setting sun. characterize Northeast Brazil.
Another beautiful spot is Duna Popular places to buggy here are Genipabu (see p242),
do Pôr do Sol (Sunset Dune). just north of Natal, and Cumbuco and Canoa Quebrada,
respectively north and south of Fortaleza. They all feature
towering mountains of sand, and dune-buggy drivers are
r Parque Nacional trained to make the most of them.
de Ubajara High-speed runs up, down, and
along the sheer, steep face of
Ceará. @ from Fortaleza. n sand dunes are among the
Secretaría de Turismo, (88) 3634 2365; most hair-raising maneuvers
Park Headquarters, (88) 3634 1388. one can expect from
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. & 8 such a tour.
Multiday buggy
Located almost exactly halfway expeditions include
between Fortaleza and Teresina, tours from Natal to
the Parque Nacional de Ubajara Fortaleza – nearly
is the smallest national park 311 miles (500 km)
in Brazil. Situated close to the of untouched sand. Dune buggy in Canoa Quebrada
small town of Ubajara, the park
w Fortaleza E Museu do Ceará

Rua São Paulo 51. Tel (85) 3101 2609.
With pretty urban beaches, a pleasant year-round climate, Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat. & 8
and a constant cooling breeze coming off the ocean, The museum possesses a vast
Fortaleza has an appealing resort-like atmosphere. Founded archive of things relating to the
history of Ceará – coins, medals,
in the early 1500s, Fortaleza remained a small town until paintings, furniture, indigenous
after Brazilian independence in 1822, then rapidly developed artifacts, folk art, and more.
into one of Brazil’s largest ports, exporting vast amounts Its most prized exhibit is the
of cotton to England in particular. There is a small historic dagger belonging to notorious
section with a 17th-century fort near the old port, now outlaw Lampião (see p217).
renovated as a nightlife area called Praia de Iracema, but
E Centro Cultural Dragão
beyond that Fortaleza has a modern feel, with apartment do Mar
high-rises, beach boulevards, and outdoor cafés. Rua Dragão do Mar 81, Iracema.
Tel (85) 3488 8600. Open 8:30am–
9:30pm Tue–Fri, 2:30–9:30pm Sat &
Sun. & for movies & plays.
∑ dragaodomar.org.br
Fortaleza’s cultural center is a
striking white building with a
circular design. It houses the
Museum of Contemporary Art,
a history and anthropology
museum, a planetarium, and
a cinema and theater venue.
( Mercado Central
Brightly painted colonial buildings lining the streets Rua Maestro Alberto Nepomuceno
199. Tel (85) 3454 8586. Open
F Teatro José de Alencar ( Centro de Turismo 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8am–4pm Sat,
Praça José de Alencar s/n. Tel (85) Rua Senador Pompeu 350. Tel (85) 8am–2pm Sun. 7
3101 2583. Open 9am–10pm Mon– 3101 5508. Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri, Fortaleza’s central market is the
Fri; 2–5pm Sat, Sun & hols. & 8 7 8am–4pm Sat, 8am–noon Sun. 7 cheapest place in town for fine
Named after one of Brazil’s This formerly grim Victorian leatherwork, lace, or textiles. The
famous novelists, prison has been market is also an excellent place
the Teatro José de transformed into a to sample local ice cream made
Alencar was built in bustling market, from regional fruits.
1908. The theater’s with a different
high-Victorian cast- shop in each of the Fortaleza
iron structure was old jail cells. The
1 Teatro José de Alencar
imported straight market specializes
2 Centro de Turismo
from Glasgow. Ironwork, Teatro José de in local handicrafts,
Additional elements, Alencar including fine lace, 3 Museu do Ceará
such as the stained- leather, and figurines. 4 Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar
glass windows and interior The market is a good place 5 Mercado Central
furnishings, were done in the to stock up on top-quality 6 Praia de Iracema
Art Nouveau style. cashew nuts. 7 Praia de Meireles
8 Praia do Futuro
RU A D OS 9 Praia de Cumbuco
TA BA JA
Praia de Cumbuco RA S
Praia de
21 miles (33 km) Iracema
AV A L M I R A N T E B A RROS O
Centro de Turismo
Estação Centro Cultural
Ferroviária Dragão do Mar
PRAÇA
CASTRO AV M O N S E N H O R TA B O S AV Praia de
A PRE
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CARRIERO Mercado Central H N K Meireles
ENN
CENTRO PRAÇA
RUA
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MUNICIPAL RU E N T E B E N É V O LO
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PRAÇA A
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D EP UT AD
TÁV O
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JOSÉ DE Teatro José de Alencar O MO RE

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ALENCAR
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Museu do Ceará BA
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F O R TA L E Z A 247
The Story of Iracema
Written by José de Alencar in 1865, Practical Information
the story of Iracema tells of the love that Ceará. * 2,400,000. n Casa do
a Tabajara princess bore for Martim, a Turista, Av Beira Mar at Rua Frei
white Portuguese settler. Iracema uses Mansueto, (85) 3105 2670.
magic to make Martim fall in love with ( daily craft market at Meireles
her, and is ostracized by her community. beach. _ Fortal (Jul), Regata
de Jangadas (Jul), Semana do
Away from her people, she loses her
Folclore (Aug).
magical powers and her lover. A statue
∑ fortaleza.ce.gov.br/turismo
of Iracema on Meireles beach is located
Statue of Iracema waiting for where, according to legend, she stood Transport
her lover awaiting the return of her beloved. k 4 miles (6 km) S of town.
@ (85) 3235 0688.
L Praia de Iracema L Praia de Meireles

Just east of the city center lies The city’s prettiest urban beach sipping on fresh cashew juice.
the Praia de Iracema. Though is lined with thick groves of Home to what has become
called a beach, it is actually the coconut palms and waterside the city’s prime residential
very urban former port, now cafés, although the water is not and hotel neighborhood in
renovated and transformed considered good for swimming. Fortaleza, Meireles’ pedestrian
into the city’s most popular Meireles is a great place for boulevard, running beside the
nightlife and restaurant area. strolling, shopping, sunbathing, beach, becomes a night market
The centerpiece of the area is or people-watching while every evening.
a long ocean pier called Ponte
dos Ingleses (Englishman’s Pier), L Praia do Futuro
first built in 1920, and modeled Praia do Futuro is one
on the piers of Brighton. Many of the best beaches
restaurants occupy other in the city for
original turn-of-the-19th- swimming, and a
century buildings in the area. bustling nightlife
Locally famous nightlife spots destination in its
include Piratas (open Mondays), own right. The 7-mile-
and Lupus Bier, known for its (11-km-) long beach
Wednesday evening folklore southeast of the
and variety show. Visitors at a waterside café, Praia de Meireles center is lined with
restaurants and
0 meters 500
beach shacks that serve local
cuisine. There are several discos
0 yards 500
on the beach that are popular on
R
weekends. On Thursday nights,
RU A J
Fortalezans head to Barraca
A
BR
O
RUA
IZ M
STR
Chico do Caranguejo to feast on

AR
B
CA
fresh crab and listen to popular

A
RUA
OS
RB
live forró (see p240) music.

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L Praia de Cumbuco
EN
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AV
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SÉ 21 miles (33 km) W of town.

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DI
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Banana offers a wide variety of

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O
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LI
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AV D A
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of Cumbuco, is surrounded by
AJ
SA
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tall dunes, making it perfect for

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“ski-bunda” (bum-skiing), where

ME
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skiers slide on wooden boards

BA
IRO
JR
BO
RR
A
down a dune into the lagoon.

S
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HE
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UA horseback riding and sailing on

EN
S
R
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jangadas, or single-sail rafts.

AV
AL
RV

PIAUÍ & MARANHÃO

Although part of the Northeast, Piauí and Maranhão
are different from the rest of the region culturally and
geographically. Both states have violent histories. Piauí was
the site of many skirmishes between the indigenous population
and cattle herders, and Maranhão was forcibly settled in 1612 by
the French. Today, the area is abundant in natural and cultural riches.
Unlike its southern neighbors, Piauí was neglect of the Maranhão coast, the
settled by ranchers on horseback pushing French, in 1612, landed a sizable force
northwards from the sugar plantations and founded São Luís, named in honor
of Bahia in the late 1700s. of King Louis XIII. Portuguese forces laid
Largely visited in transit, Piauí is sparsely siege for four years to drive the new
populated and possibly the poorest state French colony out.
in Brazil. The economy here is greatly Maranhão’s golden age came in the
dependent on agriculture and livestock. 19th century, with a rich agricultural
The only significant industry revolves export economy based on cotton
around the carnaúba palm, which yields and sugar. Ports such as São Luís and
a wax that is an important ingredient of Alcântara grew wealthy. When slavery
shellac. However, Piauí boasts a few was abolished in 1888, Maranhão’s sugar
fascinating natural attractions. The state and cotton industries collapsed, causing
capital, Teresina, located more than 186 an economic slump that lasted for most
miles (300 km) inland, is the only capital in of the 20th century.
Northeast Brazil which is not on the ocean, Maranhão is today an exciting
and has some interesting sights. destination, both in terms of natural
For many years after they first came to and cultural treasures. The state’s main
Brazil, the Portuguese showed little interest festival, Bumba-meu-boi, celebrates
in the area that now forms Maranhão. the indigenous, Portuguese, and
Taking advantage of the Portuguese African cultures.
Mesmerizing sand dunes of Lençóis Maranhenses in Maranhão

Beautifully decorated ceiling of the Igreja da Sé, São Luis
Exploring Piauí & Maranhão

Most of Piauí’s attractions are a long way from the coast. The Serra
da Capivara is one of the largest archaeological sites in the world,
containing more than 30,000 prehistoric rock paintings. The only
important destination on Piauí’s tiny 41-mile (66-km) coastline is
the town of Parnaíba. It sits at the edge of the Delta do Parnaíba,
one of the largest deep-water river deltas in the world, and now an
ecotourism destination. Most of the delta itself lies in Maranhão.
Its capital, São Luís, rivals Salvador for its collection of
Carutapera
restored colonial homes and heritage buildings. Outside
of São Luís, the biggest draw is a spectacular region of Turiaçu
Belém
stark beauty in the form of coastal sand dunes known Cururupu
Camiranga
as Lençóis Maranhenses.
Santa ALCÂNTARA
Helena
REENTRÂNCIAS Pinheiro SÃO
MARANHENSES
Sights at a Glance LUÍS
São Bento
u
pi
mb
Towns & Cities Rosário
ru
Gu
1 Teresina Viana
ca
Arari Itapicuru
ra
5 São Luís pp256–8 Mirim

Ti
6 Alcântara Santa Inês Pirapemas

do
Belém Lago
Santa Luzia Açu I
National Parks & Areas of
ta
ré
r ra
Coroatá
pi
da
cu
Natural Beauty Pin
ru
Se
Lago da Pedra Bacabal

2 Parque Nacional de Sete Codó
Arame
Cidades Pedreiras
ú
3 Parque Nacional de Serra da a
a
aj
Açailândia
tiu
Presidente
Gr
Zi
Capivara pp252–3 Dutra

4 Delta do Parnaíba & Parque
M A R A N H Ã O
Imperatriz Amarante do
Nacional dos Lençóis
im
Maranhão r Barra Buriti

Me a do Corda Bravo
Tocan
Maranhenses pp254–5 Grajaú

Montes Colinas
7 Reentrâncias Maranhenses Altos
tins
as
rcat
Porto Franco Alpe
Pastos Bons
Goiãnia Santo
Antônio Açude Boa
Esperança
Key BeneditoLeite
Uruçuí
Major road
Carolina Riachão Balsas
Minor road Bertolinía
Rio das Balsas
ba
Railroad
naí
State border Eliseu Martins

eto
Par
ei a
Uruçui Pr
Brejo da
rg
Gu
Porta
Cristino
Castro
Alto Santa
Parnaíba Filomena Bom
Jesus
Parnaibinha
Redenção
Gilbués
Curimata
Corrente
Brasília
Pedra do Elefante at the Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades

PIAUÍ & MARANHÃO 251
Pristine Caburé beach at Lençóis Maranhenses
Primeira DELTA DO PARNAÍBA & Getting Around

Cruz
PARQUE NACIONAL DOS The São Luís airport in Maranhão has
LENÇÓIS MARANHENSES international flights, and Piauí’s capital city
Barreirinhas
Araiosos Parnaíba Teresina can be reached by flights en route to
ba
Urbano
aí
Santos n São Luís. There are buses linking almost every

a r
São Bernardo P Cocal town in this region, but roads are in very poor
Luzilândia Fortaleza condition. It is also possible to rent a car. The
Chapadinha Piracuruca inland attractions of Piauí are far from Teresina,
Batalha PARQUE NACIONAL and from each other, so travel well equipped
Coelho DE SETE CIDADES with plenty of gas, water, and supplies.
Neto Miguel Piripiri
Alves Pedroll Most of Maranhão’s highlights are on the
José de coast. The Lençóis Maranhenses are best
Caxias Freitas
Campo Maior accessed from Barreirinhas, located just on the
edge of the Lençóis Maranhenses National Park.
Timon TERESINA Castelo From São Luís, it is a 45-minute flight in a single-
do Piaui
engine plane, or a four-hour drive. Once there,
Parnarama São Miguel most excursions are by boat or in a 4WD, as
do Tapuio
Palmeirais
there are no paved roads in the region.
Sa m
Amarante b it o
Barão de Fortaleza
Grajaú Ca Valença
nin do Piauí
Floriano dé
Jerumenha Fronteiras
Oeiras Picos
Itaueira
Canind
Ita
São José
do Peixe Jaicós
im
Recife
é
Fi d
Flores Costa
a lg
Simplício
o
P I A U Í Mendes
Paulistana
Canto do São João
Buriti do Piauí
PARQUE NACIONAL DE
SERRA DA CAPIVARA
São Raimundo
Nonato
Brasília
0 kilometers 100
0 miles 100
Colonial-style houses and Ponte José Sarney, São Luís

Emperor Dom was modeled on an ancient

Pedro II. Teresina Egyptian temple. The former
has the dubious state legislature is now home to
honor of being the Museu do Piauí. Its small
one of Brazil’s collection provides a good
hottest cities, overview of regional history,
although Rio including both pre-historic
Parnaíba and Rio artifacts and folk art.
Poty, as well as
several large, E Museu do Piauí
tree-shaded Praça Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca,
squares scattered Centro. Tel (86) 3221 6027.
throughout Open 8am–5pm Tue–Fri, 8am–noon
Teresina, Sat & Sun.
moderate the
E Nossa Senhora do Amparo
worst of the city’s
Praça Marechal Deodoro da Fonseca
scorching heat.
s/n, Centro. Open daily.
Most historic
buildings date
back only to the Environs
end of the 19th Easily reached by bus, the
Church exterior, Nossa Senhora do Amparo century. One Parque Ambiental Encontro
of the oldest dos Rios is located just north
1 Teresina buildings is the cathedral, of Teresina, where the Poty
Nossa Senhora do Amparo. and Parnaíba rivers join up. This
Piauí. * 815,000. ~ @
n Piemtur, (86) 3215 9426 or 3215 Construction was started in pleasant park offers walking
7476. ∑ turismoteresina.com 1851 but completed only trails, fishing spots, gardens, two
in 1952. More modern, but also lookouts, a floating restaurant,
Founded in 1852, Teresina was interesting, is the Palácio Karnak, a store with regionally made
named in honor of the Empress Piauí’s new state legislature. crafts and a statue of Crispim,
Teresa Cristina, wife of Brazilian Built in 1926, the palace’s façade the Bowl Head.
3Parque Nacional de Serra

da Capivara
Piauí’s most compelling park is the Serra da
Capivara, located in the far south of the state.
GURGUIE
Teresina
The park’s impressive canyons, plateaux, and
rock formations also form one of Brazil’s most
da
lin
important prehistoric sites, one that was

aO
M JESUS DA
Nov
designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Andorinhas

Riacho
1991. Over 30,000 rock paintings have been Every evening, thousands of
discovered within the park. The paintings swifts (andorinhas) perform
amazing aerial acrobatics
portray aspects of prehistoric life such as before retiring to a nearby
SERRA BO
the hunt, dances, and other rituals. cave to spend the night.
DO
A
RR
SE
Key
Major road
Other road
Portaria
Minor road Terra
Vermelha
Rock Painting Trail Baixão das
Andorinhas
Scientists estimate that many of these rock Park boundary
paintings were created between 6,000 and 12,000
Petrolina
years ago. The oldest drawings may date as far back
as 29,000 years.
heat, and erosion, the rocks some 6,000 years old. The most
resemble animals, people, impressive painting, Pedra de
mythological beings, and Inscrição (Inscribed Rock), said
even man-made structures. to be marked with cryptic
Among the shapes are Mapa Indian runes, can be seen at
do Brasil, a backward-facing Quinta Cidade (Fifth City). Other
map of Brazil, and Biblioteca formations include Pedra do
(Library), both in Quarta Cidade Elefante (Elephant Rock) at
(Fourth City). Segundo Cidade, Sexta Cidade (Sixth City), and
the second of the seven “cities”, lookout points such as the
has a 147-ft- (45-m-) tall look- Arco de Triunfo (Triumphal
out with views out over five Arch), a 59-ft- (18-m-) tall
of the cities of stone. There arch-shaped rock, lying
Trails leading up to rock formations at are also more than 2,000 between Quarta Cidade
Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades prehistoric rock paintings, and Quinta Cidade.
2 Parque Nacional
Crispim, the Bowl Head
de Sete Cidades
A popular Piauí legend tells the story
Maranhão. @ from Teresina. of Crispim, a fisherman who lived by
n Ibama Office, Centro de Visitantes, the banks of the Rio Parnaíba. He came
(86) 3343 1342. Open 8am–5pm daily. home one day frustrated after not
& ® Parque Hotel Sete Cidades, having caught any fish. Outraged with
(86) 3276 2222. the meager lunch of beef-bone soup,
The name Sete Cidades (Seven Crispim took up a large bone and
Cities) refers to seven distinct beat his mother. As she lay dying, she Rio Parnaíba, reputedly haunted
cursed him, condemning him to live
and unusual rock formations, by Crispim
in the river as a bowl-headed monster.
spread out in the park along
The curse would be lifted when he devoured seven virgins named
7 miles (12 km) of trails. Only Maria. Locals still tell of spotting Crispim in the river, looking for
the first six are accessible to the virgins to eat.
public. Sculpted by rain, wind,
0 km 10 Caldeirão dos VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Rodrigues, a walk
0 miles 6
through Baixão da Practical Information
Pedra Furada, leads to Coronel José Dias, Piauí.
archaeological sites n Museu de Homem Americano,
with rock paintings. Bairro Campestre, São Raimundo
Nonato, (89) 3582 1612. Open
de 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Best time to
an visit is Mar–Jun. & valid for three
Gr Desfiladeiro da
rra days. 8 tour groups up to a
Se Capivara is a
São João 2-mile- (4-km-) maximum of 10 people. ® Hotel
Serra da Capivara, Santa Luiza,
O
do Piauí long trail, leading

NG
to many rock- (89) 3582 1389.

CO
painting sites. Transport

@ from Teresina to São
Raimundo Nonato, then taxi.
Caldeirão dos
Rodrigues
Baixão da
Pedra Furada
Coronel
Baixão José Dias Baixão do Sítio Meio
do Sítio is the site where a
Meio
pottery shard nearly Baixão da Pedra Furada
São Raimundo 9,000 years old was The trail leading to the large unusual-shaped rock,
Nonato found. It is the oldest known as Pedra Furada (Pierced Rock), leads to 10
in the Americas. different archaeological sites.

4Delta do Parnaíba & Parque Nacional

dos Lençóis Maranhenses
The Delta do Parnaíba stretches roughly from the Piauí border
some 56 miles (90 km) farther up the coast in Maranhão,
where the Rio Parnaíba runs into the sea. Shaped like a hand,
the river breaks into five fingers, meandering through some
83 islands. Small villages thrive on sea salt, cashews, and
crabs. Tourism is still in its infancy. Straddling Piauí and
Maranhão, the Parque Nacional Lençóis Maranhenses offers
over 600 sq miles (1,555 sq km) of spectacular white sand
dunes created by strong coastal winds. From May to August,
rain collects in the basins between dunes, forming countless
. Queimada dos Britos
crystal-clear freshwater lagoons. In June, when the water Deep inside the park is an oasis,
levels are at their highest, the Lençóis dunes look like an array surrounded by sand dunes. It can
of white stripes, interspersed with sparkling ribbons of blue, be visited by 4WD from Sucuruju.
turquoise, and green.
Atla
ntic
Ocea
n
Lagoa
Travosa
Lagoa de
Queimada
. Scarlet Ibis Santo Amaro
dos Britos
Born gray, these birds obtain their
distinct red color from eating tiny
crustaceans found in tide flats in the Santo Amaro
estuary of the Rio Preguiças. do Maranhão
Provoado de
Primeira Sucuruju
A le g re
Cruz
Lagoa de Santo Amaro

This beautiful clear-water lake
near the tiny village of Santa
Amaro do Maranhão sits isolated
amid sand dunes.
Key
Major road
Minor road
Trail
Park boundary
KEY
1 Baixa Grande oasis can be . Lençóis

reached by hiking across the dunes. On foot, visitors can only access a small portion of the park.
2 Barreirinhas is a small town, and To appreciate the size and scale of the dunes, it is worth taking
the main access point to the park. a sightseeing flight from São Luís. The views of the large dunes
and lagoons are breathtaking.
The Versatile Buriti Palm Tree
The delta area’s dense vegetation is dominated Practical Information
by the multipurpose buriti palm tree. The fruit Piauí/Maranhão. n Casa do
can be eaten or used for wine, the trunk is Turismo, Porto das Barcas,
used for house poles, while the fronds make Parnaíba, (86) 9970 5643;
thatch roofs and baskets. Buriti fiber is crucial Ecodunas, Rua Inácio Lins 164,
for the strong but limber pouch used to Barreirinhas, (98) 3349 0545. 8
squeeze the poison from manioc root. The Giltur: Rua Montanha Russa 22,
twigs make good placemats, the seeds can São Luís. Tel (98) 3231 7065
be fashioned into jewelry, and the bark Buriti palm tree with its ® Barreirinhas.
can be spun into twine. hanging fruit ∑ parquelencois.com.br
Transport
~ @ from Teresina to Delta do
Parnaíba & Lençóis Maranhenses.
g from Lençóis Maranhenses to
Barreirinhas, then to Caburé.
Caburé
Sitting on a sandpit a short distance
from the Atlantic Ocean, this tiny
settlement is a good starting point for
reaching the northeastern part of the
Lençóis Maranhenses by ferry.
0 km 5
0 miles 5
Caburé
Atins
Mandacaru Praia
Pequenos Baía Delta do
Lençóis Tutóia Parnaíba
Tutóia
Paulino
Neves
s
ça
ui
eg
Pr
São Luís
Pequenos Lençóis
This small desert of
dunes rises out of Rio
Preguiças. Ropes assist
in hiking to the Boi hill.
Delta do Parnaíba
Formed where the Rio Parnaíba meets
the Atlantic Ocean, the Parnaíba delta,
comprising 83 islands with immense
beaches, is one of the richest habitats
for birdlife in the Northeast.
5 Street-by-Street: São Luís

One of Brazil’s finest examples of Portuguese colonial
architecture, São Luís was, ironically, founded by the French
in 1612, and later taken over by Dutch invaders. In 1644, the
city was finally settled under Portuguese rule, serving as
the export point for sugar and cotton. Expensive houses and
buildings covered with brightly colored Portuguese tiles were
built in the city’s urban center. By the late 1800s, with slavery
at an end, São Luís went into a decline. At the end of the
1970s, the state government began to invest in preserving
the city’s historic center, and in 1997, the historical core of São A row of colorful houses along one of the
Luís was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. streets in São Luís
BE
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DA
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II
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. Palácio dos Leões

RAM
Built in 1766 on the site of the original E

D
French Fort St. Louis, the Palácio dos A
RU
AR
Leões is now home to the Maranhão

state government.
Museu de Arte
Visuais is covered
in elaborate
Beco Catarina Mina
Portuguese tiles.
This picturesque 18th-century alley
connects the lower-lying streets of the
historic center with Avenida Dom Pedro II.
Casa do Maranhão
The former 19th-century customs building
now houses a fine collection of Bumba-
meu-boi folklore. Guides walk visitors
through the colorful exhibits.
SÃO LUÍS 257
Igreja da Sé VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The cathedral little resembles the
original 1699 structure. Extensive Practical Information
renovations were carried out in Maranhão. n Central de
1922, including the addition of a Serviços Turisticos.
Neo-Classical façade, giving the ∑ cultura.ma.gov.br/en
cathedral its imposing look. Casa das Tulhas: Rua da Estrela
401. Tel (98) 3231 7431
Open 8am–6pm daily.
Palácio dos Leões: Av Dom
Pedro II. Open 2–5:30pm Wed–
0 meters
Fri, 3–5:30pm Sat & Sun & 8
100
0 yards 100
Praça Benedito Lete is

framed by historic, beautifully
tiled houses. The statue in the
center of the square is of
former senator and state
governor, Benedito Leite.
AR
É . Casa das Tulhas
AZ Regional delicacies, such as cashew nuts and
N
dried shrimp, are on sale in the food stalls of
this 19th-century market building.
RU
Rua de Estrela is one

A
28
of the liveliest streets in

the historic center of
D
E
São Luís.
JU
RU
LH
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TR
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TR
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SA
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A
PR . Centro de Cultura Popular

A This center exhibits costumes,
D
CO artifacts, and photographs of the
Key BE Festa do Divino, one of
Maranhão’s most popular
Suggested route
religious festivals.
Marcos, Praia do Calhau, Calhau,

and Olho d’Agua. Calhau,
located 6 miles (10 km) from
São Luís, is considered by many
to be one of the nicest beaches
around the city. Many busy
kiosks and restaurants line the
beachside boulevard. The quiet
far end of the beach, where the
water is calm and restaurants
fewer, is known as Caolho.
E Cafua das Mercês

Jacinto Maia 54. Open 9am–6pm
Mon–Fri.
José Sarney Bridge connecting the historic district to São Francisco, São Luís E Casa do Maranhão
Rua do Trapiche s/n. Tel (98) 3218
Exploring São Luís The José Sarney Bridge leads 9954. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat,
The rich and diverse historical from the Centro Histórico into 9am–1pm Sun. 8
center of São Luís makes it the newer parts of the city. E Centro de Cultura Popular
ideal for touring on foot. This Across the bridge lies São Rua do Giz 221. Tel (98) 3218 9926.
is the oldest part of the city, Francisco, the city’s small central Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm
known interchangeably as business district. Just beyond Sun. 8
the Praia Grande, the São Francisco, there is a large
Reviver, and the Centro freshwater lake, the Lagoa
Histórico. All the city’s de Jansen, circled by a 6 Alcântara
museums and beautifully boardwalk with a number of Maranhão. * 21,000. g from São
preserved historic sites bars and restaurants. Much Luís. n Casa Municipal de Turismo,
are located here. calmer than the Centro (98) 3231 4696. _ Festa do Divino
The Casa do Histórico, it is a very Espírito Santo (May).
Maranhão is one of the popular place to stroll in
city’s most interesting the evenings. São Luís is Just across from São Luís,
museums, offering two blessed with a string of Alcântara lies on the other side
floors of colorful excellent beaches, all of the Baía de São Marcos.
exhibits that elaborately Cazumba figure, Casa of which can be easily The city was founded by the
explain the Festa do do Maranhão accessed by bus from Portuguese in the 1640s, and
Bumba-meu-boi. the Terminal de used as a temporary capital and
The Centro de Cultura Popular Integração in the city center. base during the campaign to
(also known as the Casa da Festa) Farther south, beyond the drive the Dutch away from São
is dedicated to showcasing the Lagoa de Jansen, the popular Luís. Alcântara reached its zenith
traditions and customs of the beaches are Ponta d’Areia, São in the 19th century as the
Festa do Divino Espírito Santo.
The highlights of the museum
are the poster-size photographs Bumba-meu-boi
of the actual celebrations, A unique folklore event endemic to Northeast Brazil, the Festa
including some compelling do Bumba-meu-boi revolves around a legendary folktale about
black-and-white images of the the life, death, and resurrection of a magical Brazilian bull. Over the
elderly women who once served centuries, the celebration has grown
as festival queens. into a huge carnivalesque festival,
The building that once housed with different neighborhood groups
the city slave market is now competing to put on the best
home to the Cafua das Mercês, re-enactment of the story. In São Luís
also known as the Museu do alone, more than 100 groups take to
Negro. This small museum the streets. A papier-mâché bull is
contains numerous artifacts created each year and displayed in
from the slave era, including raucous parades, where participants
musical instruments and tribal take on the roles of medicine men,
artwork, and sinister tools of the Indians, peasants, and cowboys.
slave trade, such as shackles and The largest celebrations take place
instruments of torture. One of in the second half of June. The
the more poignant monuments music is upbeat and lively, with
is the Pelourinho, or the different groups using different A colorful celebration of the
whipping post, on display in the rhythms and instruments. Bumba-meu-boi festival
museum’s central courtyard.
Pillory, restored mansions, and ruin of a church in Alcântara
regional center for the 7 Reentrâncias an array of marine life, including

surrounding sugar and cotton Maranhenses sea turtles and manatees. Many
plantations. It was the place species of fish and crustaceans
where wealthy slave-owning Maranhão. @ from São Luís to are also found in the Reentrâncias.
aristocrats built their splendid Cururupu. g from Cururupu. The region is geographically
n Sematur, Praça Joao Lisboa 328,
city mansions. When slavery diverse and consists of a
São Luís, (98) 3232 2098. 8
was abolished in 1888, the complex riverine system of
Maramazon, (98) 3235 3994.
local economy crashed, the ∑ maramazon.com extensive bays, coves, and
white upper class departed, rugged coastline covered mainly
and many of the fine mansions One of the world’s largest by mangrove forest. Many low-
stood abandoned. wetlands, the Reentrâncias lying islands are also found here.
Appreciation of Alcântara’s Maranhenses is also one of In order to protect the flora
heritage value began as early as Maranhão’s more off-the- and fauna of this region, the
the 1950s, but restoration has beaten-track natural attractions. Reentrâncias Maranhenses was
been slow and quite a few of its The small town of Cururupu to designated an Area de Proteção
churches and mansions remain the north of São Luís offers the Ambiental (Area of Environmental
as ruins, giving the city its own best access to the Reentrâncias Protection) and was also made a
charm. These ruins are now the Maranhenses, with boats Ramsar site (a wetland site listed
town’s main tourist attractions. departing regularly. under the Convention on
Day-trippers from São Luís come Spread over an area of Wetlands of International
here to stroll the quiet 10,350 sq miles (26,800 sq km), Importance) in 1993.
cobblestoned streets, peer the Reentrâncias Maranhenses One of the more popular
among the ruins, and admire the forms an important habitat for destinations here is the Ilha
often brightly tiled mansions of shorebirds such as scarlet ibis, dos Lençóis, to the northeast
this former colonial capital. spoonbills, whimbrels, egrets, of Cururupu. The island’s
The Brazilian Heritage willets, ruddy turnstones, and geography somewhat
Institute, Iphan, has restored black-bellied plovers, as well as resembles the Lençóis
several of the old mansions Maranhenses (see pp254–5),
as museums. The best is the with its endless landscapes of
Casa Histórica do Iphan, dunes and lagoons.
featuring period furniture and A small community of 300
glassware. Informative wall people live here and still
plaques and well-trained practice subsistence fishing.
guides make getting around Some of them are descendants
easy in the museum. of the Filhos da Lua (Sons of the
Another attraction to Moon), an albino community
Alcântara is the Festa do Divino that settled here in the
Espírito Santo, a vibrant religious beginning of the 20th century.
festival held in May every year. The isolation and flooding was
harsh on the residents and not
E Casa Histórica do Iphan many survived. Some of the
Praça de Matriz s/n. Open 9am–5pm Scarlet ibis, one of the shorebirds found in fishermen work as local tour
Tue–Sun. & Reentrâncias Maranhenses guides for a small fee.
NORTHERN
BRAZIL
Introducing Northern Brazil 262–267

Pará & Amapá 268–279
Amazonas, Roraima,
Acre & Rondônia 280–293
262 NORTHERN BRAZIL
Introducing Northern Brazil

The six states of Pará, Amapá, Amazonas, Roraima,
Acre, and Rondônia cover almost half of Brazil. Northern Brazil NORTHERN
BRAZIL
was relatively quiet until the rubber boom in the late 19th
century. With expansive savannas to the north, and a rich
diversity of flora and fauna in the east, today the region’s BRAZIL
economy is sustained by traditional forest products. Belém,

Manaus, Santarém, Rio Branco, and Porto Velho, cities created
by the rubber industry, are growing fast, connecting Amazônia
to the outside world.
Boa Vista’s Monte

Roraima (see p292),
with its massive uplifted
plateau, inspired Sir
Arthur Conan Doyle’s
book The Lost World.
Boa Vista
Rio Branco
(see p292) was
founded during
the rubber boom.
Today, it is better
known for its
sustainable
rubber-tapping azon
Am
forest reserves.
AMAZONAS, RORAIMA,
ACRE & RONDÔNIA
(See pp281–93)
Tabatinga
Humaitá
Cruzeiro
do Sul
Porto Velho
Rio Branco
Ji-Paraná
Madeira-Mamoré Museu
Ferroviário (see p293), in Porto
Velho, houses several impressive
0 km 200
locomotive steam engines,
antique carriages, and other 0 miles 200
railway paraphernalia.
Ribeirinhos (“river people”) boating down the Picanco River, Amazonian Estuary
INTRODUCING NORTHERN BRAZIL 263
The river scenery of Santarém (see p278), known for its

serene beauty, is the primary reason for visiting this popular
Amazon port town.
Ilha de Marajó (see p274) is

the world’s largest inland river
island. Its eastern half is
savanna dotted with small
woodland copses.
The old port of Belém
(see pp272–3) possesses more character
than any other sector of the city.
Attractive fishing boats bob up and
down in the harbor, with the large old
white fort on one side and the colorful
Ver o Peso market on the other.
Macapá
Salinópolis
zon
Óbidos Ama Belém
Santarém
Manaus
PARÁ & AMAPÁ

(See pp268–79)
Marabá The Amazon river
São Martinho
(see pp288–91), known as Rio
Solimões in its upper reaches,
was first identified by Vicente
Yáñez Pinzón. Its lower reaches
are called Rio Negro.
Teatro Amazonas (see pp286–7), in

Manaus, exudes the opulence of its
rubber-boom architects. It took the finest
of materials and the most skilled of
craftsmen to re-create an Italian
Renaissance-style edifice, with a steel
structure from Scotland and marble
imported from Italy.
264 NORTHERN BRAZIL
The Amazon Ecosystem Ecological Concern

Brazil has over 1.3 million sq miles (3.5 million sq km) of An estimated 208,495 sq
rainforest, the largest in the world. This massive river miles (540,000 sq km) of
system contains a fifth of the world’s fresh running water the rainforest is reported to
have been destroyed by
at any moment. The Amazon is home to an incredible indiscriminate felling. Stringent
variety of plant, bird, fish and insect species. From the air, measures being taken to save
its magnificent canopy hides a variety of ecosystems, many this ecological treasure include
with dramatic seasonal changes. Between December and expansion of protected
areas and sustainable use
April, visitors explore the flooded forest swamps and of forest resources.
creeks that offer access to the fascinating flora and fauna.
Rubber trees (Hevea brasiliensis) growing on

riverbanks are the source of valuable latex, which
is later transformed into rubber.
The ceiba tree (Ceiba pentandra), with elegant

buttress roots that surround the trunk’s base,
is the biggest tree in the Amazon, with an
average height of 120 ft (37 m).
Walking palms appear to migrate

across the forest floor due to their
characteristic stilt roots loosely
attached to the ground.
Flowering Bromeliads are

epiphytes that gather water and
nutrients from raindrops on
leaves as well as from dew.
Fauna
One of the world’s most diverse ecosystems, the
Amazon harbors an infinite variety of animal life.
There are plenty of remote areas that provide
habitats for jaguars, tapirs, and wild pigs.
However, spotting these elusive creatures is
difficult. Monkeys, sloths, and alligators are
more commonly sighted.
The emerald tree boa is

Amazon river winding through dense rainforest not venomous, but feeds
on rodents and small
animals of the forest.
Hoatzins, one of the

most primitive of birds,
live in flocks and build
their nests in low
canopy trees.
The upper canopy, about The three-toed

131 ft (40 m) above the sloth inhabits the
ground, is active with forest canopy,
Buriti Palm reptiles, mammals, tropical moving incredibly
birds, and other wildlife. slowly in search of
its vegetarian diet of
fruits, leaves, and
sprouting plants.
The guamo tree, found all
across the Amazon, grows
very fast to an average
height of 30 ft (10 m).
Pau-d’arco-
amarelo bears
bright yellow
flowers from
August to
November,
while shedding
Tapirs, the largest of all Amazon mammals, can
all its leaves. weigh up to 661 lb (300 kg). These vegetarians take
refuge in water to escape danger.
Freshwater river
dolphins, both gray and
The black water
pink, live in the main
owes its color rivers and lakes of the
to its source Amazon basin.
in low-lying
forests
where rotting
vegetation is
absorbed into
the river
system.
Piranhas are known for

their razor-sharp teeth.
Only a few species pose
a threat to larger animals.
266 NORTHERN BRAZIL
The People of Amazônia

Approximately 345,000 indigenous people, distributed
among 215 groups, live in Brazil. Each group has its own
unique dialect, mythology, arts, and culture. A majority of
them are semi-nomadic, and live by hunting, gathering,
fishing, and migratory farming. These indigenous people
live in close harmony with the rhythms of the rainforest, and
conservation and sustainability are an integral part of their
life. The degree of exposure to western society varies
greatly. Some people, such as the nomadic Maku, are
incredibly isolated, while others, such as the literate Ticuna
Man peering through a cokar (headgear)
(see p30), are heavily reliant on modern Brazilian society. of blue macaw feathers
Yanomami people
The Yanomami live in the rainforests of southern
Venezuela and Northern Brazil. One of the most The
recently contacted tribes in Amazônia, they patterns
number around 20,000 today. Considered fierce painted on a
warriors, the tribe consists of four subdivisions, Yanomami adult
each with its distinct language. have an aesthetic, as
well as magical and
religious significance.
Hammocks,
slung under
palm leaf roofs
along the inside
perimeter of the
During Rehao, a yearly ceremony of paying circular hut, are
obeisance to the dead, the Yanomami commonly used
decorate their arms and shoulders with by old and
colorful feathers. young alike.
Tukano People Tukano

handicrafts are
The name Tukano is used for a number of sold in local
ethnolinguistic subgroups living in northwestern markets, or
Brazil along the Rio Uapés. The individual groups used as trade
live in communal houses, which are spaced out items favored
along the river at a distance of several hours by non-
by canoe. The Tukano grow bitter manioc and indigenous
cultivate sweet potato, peanut, and plantain. people in the
area.
The traditional
flute, played by
male initiates, is
characterized
by a piercing
echo. The flute is
believed to be the
earthly manifest-
ation of spirits
which dominate
the magical and
religious world The maloca, a hut made from wood and palm
of the Tukano. leaves, provides shelter to the whole village.
Impact of Globalization
The need for national development, fueled by globalization, is
prompting the government of Brazil to enforce economic policies
that are inimical to the tribal way of life. Pipelines to expand fuel
production, and highway projects for transporting goods for global
enterprises, are opening up indigenous lands to loggers, miners,
ranchers, and colonists. The positive impact of globalization may
involve easier access to the modern world, including medicines,
Women gaining access to modern tools education, and tools.
Kayapó People
A large lip disc
Around 7,000 Kayapós live in the Amazon River Basin
is worn by older
in an area the size of Austria, with villages along the
Kayapó men. Its
Rio Xingú. Circles are one of the tribe’s main symbols, size increases
representing the course of the sun and moon. Body with the age
paint, which is worn at all times, is equally symbolic. and importance
The Kayapó also wear ear plugs and lip discs, according of the person
to which their social status can be determined, within the
particularly their right to speak and be heard. community.
Children and
women usually
wear ear discs.
Beautiful Bead
Bracelets, created by
Kayapó women,
bear geometric
designs with
symbolic mean-
ings. These are
Ritual communal dancing constitutes a crucial part of the similar to the
Kayapó celebration of important events in the year. This is brightly colored
the time when Kayapó men and women show off their patterns painted
interesting headdresses – usually made from macaw and on their bodies with
parrot feathers – and other ritual adornments. vegetable dyes.
Ashaninka People
Originally from Peru, the Ashaninka fled to parts of Brazil Small dugout
canoes or
to escape the rubber boom from 1839 to 1913. Still
balsawood rafts
possessing a fairly traditional material culture, the
are regularly used
Ashaninka wear long cushmas that the women weave by the riverine
from cotton grown in small forest gardens. They make a Ashaninka for
living from hunting, fishing, and small-scale gardening. traveling on the
Rice, coffee, and chocolate supplement their way of life rivers along
with bought-in goods including metal tools and soaps. with their
families.
Red face paint

is traditionally
applied by Ashaninka
most of the women weave
Ashaninka cotton cloth
people. The on primitive
strong color back-strap
comes from looms, almost
seeds of the every day, to
garden-grown make the men’s
annatto bush. pretty robes.
PARÁ & AMAPÁ

The states of Pará and Amapá in the eastern Amazon are the
gateway to the world’s largest river basin. In many ways, they
are different from one another. Pará covers an enormous area,
and has benefited from the natural wealth of the Amazon
rainforest. Much smaller than Pará, Amapá is relatively poor.
Both states rely on the mineral extraction industry.
It is the Amazon river itself that brings mangrove swamps, some splendid
most visitors to this part of Brazil. Pará beaches, and a scattering of resorts,
stretches west as far as the straits of is located in the heart of the Amazon
Óbidos, where the river suddenly river delta.
becomes narrow. This happens due to Pará is also known for large modern iron
a geological meeting of the Guyana ore mines, such as Grande Carajás and
Shield from the north and the Brazilian the older gold mine of Serra Pelada, once
Shield from the south. North of the infamous for the vast scale of human
Amazon, Amapá occupies an isolated labor used for extraction. In southern
region, stretching from the Amazon delta Pará, the rainforest transforms into
all the way to the borders of French caatinga, a scrubby savanna landscape.
Guyana and Suriname. Once exploited for its natural resources,
Pará has many places of cultural and Amapá is now making concerted
ecological interest. The capital city, efforts towards sustainable development.
Belém, has been a vital Atlantic port since More than half of the state is under
the colonial era, and still boasts many environmental protection. Macapá,
extravagant period buildings. Santarém, the state capital of Amapá, lies on the
another sizable city, is a busy and equator. The English, Dutch, and French
attractive river port replete with clamored for a base in this part of
fascinating beaches. The massive island, Amazon, before the Portuguese settled
Ilha de Marajó, which has vast areas of at Macapá in 1738.
Fishing boats moored at the old harbor near Ver o Peso market, Belém
Aerial view over the city of Belém, with the Basílica de Nossa Senhora do Nazaré in the foreground
270 NORTHERN BRAZIL
Exploring Pará & Amapá

Even with their widespread rainforest canopy, which can
only be seen clearly from the air, it is ocean and river travel
that have long been the hallmark of Pará and Amapá states.
Their highlights include the tasteful, restored historic
buildings of Belém in Pará, along with the Amazon river
itself, as well as splendid riverine beaches such as Alter do
Chão, close to Santarém, and those found on the Ilha de
Marajó. Macapá, the capital of Amapá, with its refreshing
sea breeze, was founded around the Forte de São José. It
lies on the equator in a strategic position on the north side
of the Amazon river estuary. More than half of the state is
under environmental protection. Corner tower, Fortaleza de São José de
Macapá, Macapá
Sights at a Glance
Towns & Cities
1 Belém pp272–3 Kapiting
ue
2 Salinópolis umaq
Tu m u v
4 Macapá
Asoenangka S e r ra d o
5 Santarém
Ja
Merirumã ri
6 Óbidos
Maloca
7 Monte Alegre
Mapireme
C umi
Manaus
Maicuru
Jari
Areas of Natural Beauty
Imab
Tauin
Trombetas
nap
3 Ilha de Marajó Pa
ane
v
Arere ru
i
ma
Porteira
ha
N
mu Cuminá
ndá
Arapari
0 km 100 ÓBIDOS MONTE
Juruti Curuaí ALEGRE
0 miles 100
Alter do Chão SANTARÉM
Boim
Boa Vista
PARÁ
Iriri
Vila Braga
Porto Alegre
Itaituba
Lua Nova Sem Tripa Forte
Veneza
Tucuparé
Bacabal
Entre Rios Sobrado
São Martinho
Jacareacanga Araras
Uari
Riozin
Se
Porto
r r eles Pire
Velho
Manuelzinho
h
a
o
T
Usina
d
o
Iriri
C
ach
s
imbo
Cachimbo
Ferries moored on the shore of Rio Tapajós,

Santarém, Pará
PA R Á & A M A PÁ 271
Ponta dos
Índios
Mountains of fresh fruit at Ver o Peso market, Belém
Oiapoque
ock
Getting Around
ap
Oy
Vila Velha
Rivers are the transport arteries of Pará, where virtually every
Lourenço village has some form of riverboat service. There are regular
Calçoene riverboat services connecting Belém, Macapá, and Santarém.
Amapá While there are very few bus routes in Pará, most access is by
road in Amapá. However, the roads are mainly unsurfaced, and
AMAPÁ bus travel during the rainy season can be treacherous in both
Serra do states. Air services are widespread. Belém and Macapá can be
Navio Nazaré
reached from most cities in Brazil by air, and there are daily
Porto Estuário do flights from Belém to most larger towns in the Amazon.
Grande Amazonas
I ratapur u
MACAPÁ
Mazagão
AJ Ó Cajuuna
Itatupã
AR
Monte M Soure SALINÓPOLIS
Dourado s E Algodoal Key
na
D
zo Castanhal
ma
A
Curumu Major road

A
ILH
Abaetetuba BELÉM Minor road

Porto de Breves
Moz Pa ra Railroad
Cameta Moju São Luís
Carvalho International border
ins
Barbacena
State border
Badajós Canindé
Tocant
Belo Monte Paragominas

Altamira Joana Peres
Pindobal
i
Bacajá
up
Tucuruí Surubi
ú
r
Gu
Represa
Tucuruí
Lontra Jacunda
Porto do Barka
Itupiranga
Marabá São João do

São Sebastião s
ba Araguaia
ape
Carajás
rau
Nazaré
Pa
São Félix aia

do Xingu
gu
Ara
Xinguara
Gradaús Redenção
Aldeia Velha
Fr Conceição
Xi
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es
ng
co
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Santana do
Araguaia
A creek near Araruna beach, Ilha de Marajó

272 NORTHERN BRAZIL
1 Belém
The attractive city of Belém was founded by the Portuguese
in 1616 to guard the mouth of the Amazon river against other
European powers. As the Amazon region’s resources, mainly
spices, were exploited, the city soon became a major trading
port. It was ravaged during the 1835 Cabanagem Rebellion,
when poor settlers attacked the wealthy local elite. By the
end of the 19th century, Belém had more than recovered
its economic position, largely due to the rubber boom.
It is still the most important port in Northern Brazil, and a
fascinating place in which to explore the wealth of colonial Cannon on display at the 17th-century
Forte do Castelo
and republican architecture.
this fort was first built of wood
and mud plaster by the
Portuguese colonists in 1616. It
was rebuilt six years later, and
again in 1878. It now houses the
Museu do Encontro, a small
historical museum presenting
the city’s history and the early
conquest of the Amazon.
P Palácio Antônio Lemos

Praça Dom Pedro II. Tel (91) 3114
1028. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. &
This splendid palace housed the
Ships docked on the waterfront at the Ver o Peso market municipal authorities between
1868 and 1883. It still has offices
= Estaçáo das Docas and farinha (manioc, or cassava- for the Prefeitura, but much of
Blvd Castilho França, Campina. root, flour) to medicinal herbs the building is open to the
Tel (91) 3212 5525. and aromatic oils. The market public, with some furnished
Open noon–midnight daily. extends along the promenade period rooms upstairs. The
∑ estacaodasdocas.com.br where there are further stalls palace is home to the Museu
Three former warehouses and kiosks selling craft goods de Arte de Belém, which houses
overlooking the river have been and local food specialties. a fine collection of Brazilian
converted into a stylish, air- 20th-century paintings.
conditioned shopping, dining, P Forte do Presépio
and entertainment space. Praça Frei Caetano Brandão 117, P Teatro da Paz
Visitors enjoy the lively Cidade Velha. Tel (91) 4009 8828. Praça da República. Tel (91) 4009 8750.
atmosphere until late at night. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–noon
Sat & Sun & Sat, 10–11am Sun. 8 on the hour.
( Ver o Peso Sitting at the confluence of Rio This grand Neo-Classical opera
Av Castilhos França. Open 6am– Guamá and the Baía do Guajará, house was built in 1878, along
2pm daily.
Incredibly hectic early in the
morning, Ver o Peso, or “See the Transamazônica
Weight,” was originally a colonial Until the middle of the 20th century,
customs point (Posto Fiscal), riverboat or mule trail were the only
where goods were assessed for viable forms of travel across Amazônia
taxation purposes. These days, and Northern Brazil. With the ambitious
its most obvious feature is the construction of Highway BR-230 during
iron-built fish market, the the late 1960s, the Atlantic port of Belém
was effectively connected all the way
Mercado de Ferro, which was
to the Peruvian border. Known as the
designed and made in England
Transamazônica, this road is in a poor
and assembled here in the late state of repair along much of its length.
19th century. The variety of In 2005, a river bridge to Peru was
seafood inside is staggering. opened in the remote jungle state of
Outside, the main market Acre, completing the Brazilian end Unpaved section of the
expands into stalls that sell of the Transamazônica. Transamazônica
everything from jungle fruits
BELÉM 273
on 16 major arches, each VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

ornately covered in stone
mosaics and supporting a Practical Information
breathtaking red cedar roof. Pará. * 1,385,000. n Belémtur,
It was completed in 1909, to Av G. José Malcher, (91) 3230
house the miraculous Virgin 3920; Paratur, Praça Waldemar
image of Nossa Senhora de Henrique, (91) 3212 0669.
_ Círio de Nazaré (Oct, 2nd Sun).
Nazaré, which is traced back
to early Christian Nazareth.
Transport
Linked to the icon, the Círio k 7 miles (12 km) N of town.
de Nazaré, or the Festival of @ Av G. José Malcher, (91) 3266
Candles, attracts over a million 2625. g from Macapá, Manaus &
visitors to the city every October. Santarém. Taxi: Radiotaxi Aguia,
In one of the main symbolic (91) 3276 4000
Elegant interior of the Neo-Classical acts, hundreds of local people
Teatro da Paz work together, dragging an
enormous rope from the mud
the very Parisian Avenida and water of the port, through the year are granted. The basilica
Presidente Vargas. Inspired the streets of the city to the also houses the Museu Círio de
by La Scala in Milan, the Basílica de Nossa Senhora de Nazaré, which is devoted to the
furnishings are still largely Nazaré. For those who cult of the Círio and exhibits
original. Legendary Russian participate, their sins are purged, over 500 pieces relating to the
ballerina Anna Pavlova was and their hopes and wishes for religious festival.
one of the great artists to have
performed here.
R Basílica de Nossa Senhora

de Nazaré
Praça Justo Chermont. Tel (91) 4009
8400. Open 7am–8pm Mon–Sat,
7am–noon & 3–9pm Sun. Museu Círio
de Nazaré: Open 9am–6pm Tue–Fri.
The basilica’s spectacular
interior makes it one of the
most stunning churches in
Brazil. Partially modeled on
St. Peter’s in Rome, it stands Nave of the Basílica de Nossa Senhora de Nazaré
Belém City Center 0 meters 400

1 Estaçáo das Docas 0 yards 400
2 Ver o Peso
3 Forte do Presépio Val-de-Cans
7 miles (12 km)
4 Palácio Antônio Lemos
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4 miles (7 km)

274 NORTHERN BRAZIL
2 Salinópolis
Pará. * 40,000. k Belém Val de Caes
Airport, 110 miles (180 km) SE of town,
then bus. @ Av Miguel Santa Brigada.
n Paratur (91) 3423 2203.
The town of Salinópolis, locally

known as Salinas, is just about
as far east as the Amazon river
delta reaches. Very much the
traditional summer resort for
city folk, Salinas has plenty of
beaches fringed with beach
huts and second homes. The
busiest beach is the central
Praia do Maçarico, which has A secluded beach near Souré, Ilha de Marajó
several bars and restaurants.
More pleasant still, there is the village or on Maiandeua island, 3 Ilha de Marajó
Praia do Atalaia, not far from adding to the remote and idyllic Pará. * 250,000. g from Belém to
the center of town, backed by feel. Electricity only reached Porto Camará. n Trapiche Municipal,
sand dunes and well provided the island in 2004, so facilities Rua 1, Souré, (91) 3741 1326.
with barracas (tents) for food are improving.
and drink. A continuation of this The main beach for the The world’s largest river island,
beach, the Praia do Farol Velho, village is the Praia da Vila do Ilha de Marajó covers over
is thickly lined with beach Algodoal. More popular, 18,533 sq miles (48,000 sq km),
houses, and is most popular however, is the palm-fringed mostly dedicated to cattle
during July, when it can often Praia da Princesa do Farol, a ranches, or fazendas. The island
get rather crowded. superb stretch of sand is famous for having the biggest
secluded from the main beach and finest buffaloes in Brazil.
Environs by a short walk at low tide or Their meat, leather, and dairy
About 19 miles (30 km) west a canoe ride. There are trails products are widely available
of Salinópolis is the relatively on the island, offering the to purchase. Ilha de Marajó was
sleepy fishing settlement and opportunity to spot wildlife also the ancient home to the
beach resort of Algodoal. The and explore the area around an indigenous culture of the
resort lies on the western edge inland freshwater lake. It is Marajoaras, notable for their
of Ilha de Maiandeua, just a advisable to carry adequate exquisite ceramic burial and
40-minute boat ride away. There cash to visit the island, since ceremonial urns.
are no motorized vehicles in the there are no banks or ATMs. The unofficial capital of the
island is Souré, which has the
most shops, restaurants, and
Pottery on Ilha De Marajó other facilities, but the ferry port
In 1948, anthropologists Betty Meggers is Porto Camará, some 16 miles
and Clifford Evans discovered a large, (27 km) south of Souré. Located
painted anthropomorphic vessel between Porto Camará and
on Ilha de Marajó. The ancient Souré, the best and most
inhabitants, the Marajoaras, left behind secluded beach is at the small
not only burial mounds, some almost town of Joanes, some 3 miles
3,000 years old, but also some very fine (5 km) off the main road. There
ceramics, leading archaeologists to are good beaches at the other
believe that between the 5th and 13th town on the island, Salvaterra,
centuries, there were sophisticated where there are also several
societies living along the banks of the hotels and pousadas. The Praia
Amazon river. Excavations reveal that
Grande beach in Salvaterra is well
the dead were buried in line according
Marajó pottery displayed in served with beach chairs, snack
to their social ranking, with larger urns
Museu Goeldi, Belém
indicating higher status. Most of these
barracas, and refreshment stands.
ceramics, representing abstract During the peak rainy season
feminine figures, demonstrate the matrilineal nature of this early (February–May) many of the
Amazonian society. As well as funerary ceramics, there were also roads are inaccessible for long
bowls, vases, spindle whorls, and stools. The larger urns generally periods; this includes the road
took three main forms: humanoid, cyclindrical, and round; and to Joanes and Salvaterra at
around 15 different finishing techniques are known to have been times. Boats for moving around
utilized. Some excellent examples of the urns can be found in the the island can be found easily
Museu Goeldi in Belém. at Souré, Salvaterra, and
Porto Camará.
4 Macapá
Amapá. * 395,000. k g from
Belém. @ Bairro São Lázaro, (96) 3251
2009. n Setur, Rua Independência
29, Centro, (96) 3212 5335.
_ O Marabaixo (May).
Split in two by the equator,

Macapá is hot and humid all
year round. The city occupies
its position as Amapá’s capital
sitting on the northern bank of
the Amazon river, very close to
the giant river’s mouth. It is
rather isolated, with mostly air A replica of a typical indigenous home, Museu SACACA, Macapá
and boat transportation, rather
than road connections. These days, Macapá is the goods, carved wooden statues,
The history of the city is rich capital of a progressive state. and all-natural medicines.
and varied. Several European Following the election of the The Marco Zero monument,
countries, including England environmentalist João a large obelisk-cum-sundial,
and France, attempted to take it Capiberibe as state governor 4 miles (6 km) southwest of
over from the Portuguese, but in 1995, successive governors the city center, marks the
the Portuguese established have kept the spirit equatorial line on
their hold here by completing of environ- Avenida
the grand Fortaleza de São mentalism alive. Equatorial.
José de Macapá in 1782, after One present A sports stadium
almost 20 years of construction project is to and sambódromo
by black and Indian slave labor. connect all the Wooden artifact, also form part of the
The bricks used were brought state’s protected areas Museu SACACA same complex.
over from Portugal as ballast with wildlife or bio-
on the ships. diversity corridors. The Museu P Fortaleza de São José
Just to the north of the fort SACACA, or the Museum of de Macapá
there is an attractive pier, the Sustainable Development, just a Av Candido Mendes. Tel (96) 3212
Trapiche Eliezer Levy, which short distance south of the 5118. Open 9am–6pm Tue–Sun. 8
dates back to the 1930s. The town center, offers fascinating
( Mercado dos Produtos
pier stretches far out into the guided tours of replica ribeirinho
da Floresta
water and it is an enjoyable (river-dweller) houses.
Rua São José 1500. Tel (96) 9 9961
stroll to the end of it, especially The Mercado dos Produtos
0913. Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri.
on a breezy evening. The da Floresta offers a wide range
charming Trapiche Restaurante, of local art and craft goods, E Museu SACACA
also located at the end of the ranging from balata (ceramics) Av Feliciano Coelho, 1509.
pier, has a breathtaking view dusted with manganese ore to Tel (96) 3212 5361. Open 9am–6pm
overlooking the river. indigenous crafts, leather Tue–Sun. 8
Buildings inside the Fortaleza de São José de Macapá

Wooden house on stilts on the Amazon River, with the rainforest behind
278 NORTHERN BRAZIL
5 Santarém
Pará. * 295,000. k ~
g from Docas do Pará (W of center).
n Santarém Tour, (93) 3522 4847.
∑ santaremtur.com.br
Amazônia’s fourth-largest city,

Santarém sits at the mouth of
the Rio Tapajós, surrounded by
brilliant white sandy beaches.
Modern Santarém began in 1661
as a Jesuit mission, following 30
years of military action in the
area to subdue the fierce,
indigenous Tapuiçu Indians.
In 1867, there was an influx of
ex-Confederates from the USA, a
handful of whose descendants
still survive. However, it was the
rubber boom and Santarem’s
strategic position as a pit stop
en route along the Amazon river
that turned the town into a Ferries moored on the shore of the Amazon river at Santarém
buzzing commercial center.
In the late 19th century, Henry An ancient center for the Santarém, which has a decent
Wickam, an English settler in production of fine ceramics, the collection of religious art.
Santarém, smuggled rubber town showcases its distinct
tree seeds out to establish Santarém Phase Pottery in a Environs
rubber plantations in striking museum, the Located 20 miles (33 km) west of
Asia. Within 40 years, Museu de Santarém. Santarém, the river-beach town
and just in time for The exhibits promi- of Alter do Chão has fine sandy
World War I, Asian nently feature burial beaches set against a calm bay
rubber plantations urns, reputed to be on the Rio Tapajós. Canoes ferry
greatly outproduced the among the oldest in visitors across the bay in order to
Brazilian Amazon. Burial urn, Museu de South America. Also climb the low-lying hills that
The local economy is Santarém known as Centro offer breathtaking views. Closer
today based on rubber, Cultural João Foua, the to the main beach is another
logging, soya, brazil nuts, and museum has a striking interior, prominently shaped hill that
tourism. Colorful boats and painted by João Foua, an artist resembles a church altar.
frantic movement of produce at from Pará. Fordlândia, 62 miles (100 km)
the port and along the attractive Another attraction is the south of town, was Henry Ford’s
riverfront are typical today. Museu de Arte Sacra de first rubber plantation, founded
The Rubber Story in Brazil

In the mid-1700s, Charles-Marie de la Condamine was
presented with latex syringes from the Hevea brasiliensis tree
by the Omagua people living in Amazônia. He returned to
France with samples, and rubber became known to the world.
Soon it was being used for everything from insulation to tyres,
and Hevea brasiliensis had become the oil of its day. In
Amazônia, where the rubber tree grew in abundance, foreign
banks and companies began to set up plantations. The rubber
boom ushered Manaus and Belém into the belle époque era,
with electric lights, lavish opera houses, and mansions for the
rubber barons. Brazil emerged as the world’s largest producer
of natural rubber. The euphoria lasted until 1910, when the
British colonies in Asia – Malaya, Ceylon, and Singapore –
outproduced the Brazilian rubber. Unprepared for
competition, Brazil was elbowed out of the rubber market by
1914. The indigenous Brazilians, who had been rounded up
and forcibly settled to work on the plantations, returned to
Belterra, a rubber plantation set up by John relative freedom. Today, much of Brazil’s rubber is imported
Ford in the 1930s from Asia.
in the 1920s to produce rubber

for the Ford Motor Company. In
the 1930s, he also established
Belterra, 12 miles (20 km) south.
Both ventures failed, and Ford
had to sell them to the Brazilian
government in 1945. These
towns are accessible by boat
from Alter do Chão.
E Museu de Arte Sacra de

Santarém
Rua Siqueira Campos 439, Centro. A surfer catching the “Pororoca” tidal wave
Tel (93) 3523 0658. Open 8–11:30am
Tue–Sat. Pororoca Wave
E Museu de Santarém Revered by surfers, the Pororoca is a legendary wave, over 16 ft (5 m)
Rua do Imperador, Praça de Santarém. tall, that regularly rolls up the Amazon river. The name Pororoca
Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri. & comes from a local Tupi Indian phrase which means “great destructive
donation expected. noise.” Predicted to happen twice daily during full moons between
January and April every year, the wave comes in from the Atlantic
causing some devastation along the riverbanks. Following a low
6 Óbidos tide in the rainy season, the force of the mighty river against the
turning tide creates the large and powerful wave that rolls, literally
Pará. * 47,000. g from Santarém. unstoppable, up the Amazon. The surfing record so far is 27 minutes
n Rua Rui Barbosa, Centro,
in time and 7 miles (12 km) in distance, while the tidal waves are
(93) 3547 3244. known to travel over 12 miles (20 km) per hour at times.
The real gateway to the deeper
Amazon, Óbidos marks the
narrowest section of the 7 Monte Alegre the rubber industry. It is best
Amazon river valley. It was Pará. * 23,500. g 8 Rua do
known for the rock paintings of
created 40 million years ago, Jaquara 320. Serra Paytuna and Serra Ererê,
when a massive inland lake located 19 miles (30 km) out of
burst through to the Atlantic Located impressively on top of town. Estimated to be 10,000
at this point, where the a small hill beside the Amazon years old, the paintings feature
Guyanan Shield meets the river, the town of Monte Alegre abstract patterns, mostly
Brazilian Shield. was one of the first places on geometric in form, and some
The pretty waterfront has the river to be colonized by stylized representations of
some beautifully tiled buildings Europeans. A band of English human and animal figures. It is
and the 17th-century Forte and Irish sailors were the earliest obligatory to hire a guide and
Pauxias. There is also a free to settle here in the 1570s, a vehicle to visit them. Monte
museum featuring, among soon to be expelled by the Alegre is also renowned for
other exhibits, luxury items Portuguese. Over the last 200 scenic waterfalls and its wealth
from the rubber-boom days. years, Monte Alegre has of birdlife, for which a local guide
The museum opens on request. benefited from ranching and and a canoe will be required.
Boats moored along the waterfront in Óbidos, with rows of houses in the background
AMAZONAS, RORAIMA,
ACRE & RONDÔNIA
The states of Amazonas, Roraima, Acre, and Rondônia form
the heartland of the vast Amazon rainforest region, which is
drained by the world’s largest network of freshwater lakes and
rivers. Despite hundreds of years of European presence and the
ravages of 20th century deforestation, the region is still home to
some of the world’s most isolated indigenous peoples.
Amazonas is larger than the other Acre and Rondônia, in the very southwest
three states put together. Manaus, its corner of the Brazilian Amazon, possess
capital, is the most popular place from some fantastic protected areas of
which to explore the jungle. The city sits biodiversity, home to many indigenous
at the confluence of two of the world’s communities. Acre, the rubber-tapping
largest rivers – the Solimões (as the center of the Amazon, is known for its
Amazon river is called in this section) lush beauty. Environmental destruction
and the Rio Negro. The vast Rio Madeira has been met with equally forceful
lies downstream of Manaus. conservation movements here. The state
Roraima, which literally juts up into capital, Rio Branco, was where activist
Venezuela and Guyana, is best known Chico Mendes fought to defend the
for its superb plateau-topped mountains, forest in the late 1980s.
lakes, and substantial rainforest. A host of Rondônia, an area which has developed
indigenous groups live here, tenaciously beyond recognition, still retains some
holding on to their land and culture. of Brazil’s best flora and fauna. It also
Roraima also boasts open savannas that offers fascinating gems in terms of
have been transformed into cattle ranches. heritage, such as the Madeira-Mamoré
The state capital, Boa Vista, is a well-planned railway museum in the state capital,
city on the banks of the Rio Branco. Porto Velho.
Village huts surrounded by tall palm tree plantations in Acre

A wooden canopy walkway through Brazilian nut trees, Rio Branco, Acre
282 NORTHERN BRAZIL
Exploring Amazonas, Roraima,

Acre & Rondônia
This region offers the ultimate rainforest experience. Most
people travel here to explore the dense forests, picturesque
river islands, and tranquil waterways. The sights include
Manaus, the legendary capital city of Amazonas, which offers
much architectural and cultural interest. Also located in
Amazonas is the Mamirauá Reserve, Brazil’s first sustainable
development reserve. The secluded and beautiful mountains
of Roraima are worth a visit, as is Acre, with its natural beauty,
history, and seringueiro (rubber-tapping) culture. Porto Velho, Spectacled caimans can be found
the capital of Rondônia, overlooking the Amazon’s longest near Manaus
tributary, the mighty Rio Madeira, is a lively place to visit.
Riverboat excursions on the Rio Madeira are a good way to
idle away a few hours and spot a few pink dolphins. Altamira
Camarão
Marabitanas
Pico da Neblina
9,888 ft (3,014 m)
Uaruma
Uaupés Castanheiro
iari
ieur
Cur São João xi
M ar i
é eiu
Un
Novo
Julia Japu Marapi
rá
Capana Estação Ecológica
Mamiraua
Tonantins Fonte Boa
Içá
aí
Jut
Amazonas
u
Jur
São Paulo Amataurá

de Olivença
Boats anchored on the Rio Madeira outside Porto Velho Tabatinga

Caxias
ba
Carauari
tu
Jutaí
ia
Sights at a Glance Boa Vista

nd
í
a
Ja
Jut
í
Itu
Towns & Cities

Foz de u á
1 Manaus pp284–7 Rodrigues Tapa
Gregório Itamarati
2 Parintins u á uá
Jur X ir
3 Boa Vista
Mamoriá
4 Rio Branco
5 Porto Velho Pucallpa Feijó
Cruzeiro
do Sul Tarauacá
ACRE Floriano
Peixoto
Boca do Acre
co
Sena Madureira
Ia
Taumaturgo
Progresso
RIO BRANCO
Guanabara
Getting Around Xapuri
Joining an organized tour with one of the companies in Manaus, Boa

Vista, Porto Velho, or Rio Branco is the best way to see the Amazon
jungle. Most companies offer accommodation in tourist lodges and
travel by a combination of road and riverboat or canoe. For those 0 km 200
who want to travel independently, it is possible to move around the
0 miles 200
jungle on local riverboats. Road travel is also possible from all cities.
Manaus, for instance, is only 6 hours by bus from Novo Airão, on the
Rio Negro, where it is possible to bathe in jungle rivers and swim
with pink dolphins.
Monte Caburaí
4,777 ft (1,456 m)
Mataruca
C o tt i n ga
Serra Merari Normandia

4,068 ft (1,240 m)
Se r r a Pa r i
Ur Uraricoera
ari Bonfim
coer
a
m BOA VISTA Serra Grande
a 3,773 ft (1,150 m)
RORAIMA The Rio Branco snaking through Roraima

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u
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Figuerido
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RONDÔNIA
Pimenta Bueno
Rolim de
Costa Marques Moura
Vilhena
Pimenteiras Cuiabá
do Oeste
Visitors exploring the forest near Manaus

284 NORTHERN BRAZIL
1 Manaus graphers, and installation

artists. The exuberant paintings
Manaus is a legendary city, located at the heart of the Amazon of local flora and fauna by
forest on the banks of the Rio Negro, close to where this massive Manaus painter Rita Loureiro
river blends with the even larger Amazon river, or Rio Solimões are especially noteworthy.
as it is known along this section of its course. Manaus is a busy E Homem do Norte
city bringing together the hectic pace of a modern port with Centro Cultural dos Povos da
the hot, laid-back feel of a jungle town. The brief period of Amazônia, Praça Francisco Pereira da
economic boom between 1888 and 1912, due to the export Silva. Tel (92) 2125 5300. Open 8am–
noon, 1–5pm Tue–Fri, 4–9pm Sun. &
of rubber, catapulted Manaus into wealthy city status. The only
An anthropology and ethnology
signs that remain of this time are the fancy European buildings
museum, the fascinating Museu
of the port and the even more splendid Teatro Amazonas. do Homem do Norte (Museum
of Northern Man) has exhibits on
( Mercado Municipal brought from Scotland. The the way of life of the people of
Adolfo Lisboa tower used to be a lighthouse. Northern Brazil. It is particularly
Rua dos Bares 46. Open 8am–5pm Much of this refined building’s dedicated to the caboclos
Mon–Sat, 6am–noon Sun. glory can be seen from the (copper-colored) mixed
The municipal market was built Praça Adalberto Valle opposite. descendants of the indigenous
in 1902, very close to the port, people and Portuguese who live
and is an amazing building. P Teatro Amazonas along the riverbanks. Cultural,
Looking up to its elegant ceiling See pp286–7. social, and economic aspects of
and Art Nouveau ironwork life in Northern Brazil are detailed
structure, it is not difficult to see E Palacete Provincial with photographs, documents,
that Gustave Eiffel himself had a Praça da Policia, Centro. Tel (92) 3631 artifacts, and everyday objects,
hand in its design, which is said 6047. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Wed, such as historic cooking utensils,
to be inspired by the Les Halles 9am–7pm Thu–Sat, 4–8pm Sun. costumes, and an interesting
market in Paris. Built in 1874 originally to house collection of indigenous
the police headquarters, the weapons, including the
P Alfândega Palacete Provincial is now a infamous furador de olhos (eye
Rua Marquês de Santa Cruz. Tel (92) cultural center, which is home piercer). There are also
3622 3025. Open 8am–4pm Mon–Fri, to several interesting small exhibitions on guaraná and
8am–noon Sat. museums and collections, rubber production.
Constructed in 1906 at the including the Museum of
height of the rubber boom, the Image and Sound, the Military P Palácio Rio Negro
Alfândega (Customs House), like Police Museum, and the Av 7 de Setembro 1546. Tel (92) 3232
many of the well-engineered Numismatic Museum. The 4450. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Fri,
features of Manaus from this Palacete’s highlight is the art 5–8pm Sun.
period, was entirely pre- gallery, which features modern A remarkably well-preserved
fabricated in England. The stone and contemporary art by colonial-period mansion, the
used for the building was regional painters, photo- almost garish Palácio Rio Negro
The Rio Negro with the Porto Flutante (Floating Port) and the Catedral Metropolitana in the background
MANAUS 285
was built in 1913 during the Índio was established by VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
rubber boom. It was originally Salesian nuns and is based
home to an eccentric German on their work as missionaries Practical Information
rubber baron, Waldermar in the Rio Negro area. There Amazonas. * 1,800,000.
Scholz. In later years, it housed are many feather-work exhibits n AmazonasTur, Manaus
the local government. These and some weapons and tools, Airport, (92) 3182 9850.
days, much of it has been as well as household and _ Manaus Opera Festival (Apr/
opened to the public as a sacred objects on display, May), Festival Folclórico do
Amazonas (Jun).
cultural center. The palace hosts along with musical instruments
∑ manausonline.com
art exhibitions and events, as and artworks. The Tukano
well as film screenings. people (see p266) are Transport
particularly well represented k ~ @ Rua Recife 2784, (92)
E Museu do Índio here. Explanations of the 642 5805. g Porto Flutuante.
Rua Duque de Caxias 296. Tel (92) displays are in Portuguese,
3635 1922. Open 8:30–11:30am & English, and German. The
3–4:30pm Mon–Sat (Sat: am only). & museum has a good craft O Zoológico do CIGS
An excellent ethnographic shop, with a wide range of Estrada Ponta Negra 750.
museum, the Museu do handicrafts on sale. Tel (92) 2125 6402. Open 9am–5pm
Tue–Sun. &
One of the few places around
Manaus where you might see
a jaguar at close quarters, the
Zoológico do CIGS is a great
place to take children. Located
8 miles (13 km) from Manaus
toward Ponta Negra in the
army jungle training center,
this small zoo is home to over
300 animals including many
caimans, monkeys, exotic birds,
and an unforgettable large pit
Traditional indigenous longhouse at the Museu do Índio full of anacondas.
Manaus City Center Zoológico do CIGS

RUA 10 DE J
ULHO
J O AQ U I M N A B U CO
8 miles (13 km)

A V E D U A R D O R I B EI RO
PRAÇA SÃO
1 Mercado Municipal Aeroporto de Teatro SEBASTIÃO
Eduardo Gomes Amazonas
VARGAS
Adolfo Lisboa RUA MARÇAL

GABRIEL
10 miles (17 km)

RUA BARROSO
2 Alfândega
MANAUS
AVENIDA EPAMINONDAS
RUA 24 DE MAIO
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3 Teatro Amazonas
RUA LOBO D'ALMADA
MAJOR
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5 Homem do Norte Shopping

ARINHO
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6 Palácio Rio Negro

RUA RUI
Homem do Norte
3 miles (5 km)
RUA DA INSTALAÇÃO
AVENIDA
7 Museu do Índio
IGA
RUA LAURO CAVALCAN TE

BARBOSA
RUA
8 Zoológico do CIGS RUA HENRIQUE MARTINS

RUA
Cortez
Câmbio Museu do Índio
450 yards (500 m)
AVENIDA 7 DE SETEMBRO
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286 NORTHERN BRAZIL
Manaus: Teatro Amazonas

Built at the end of the 19th century during the belle
époque, when fortunes were made from the extraction
of rubber in Manaus, the Teatro Amazonas remains one
of the jewels of the Amazon region. This grand state-of-
the-art, Renaissance-style opera house was designed by
Gabinete Português de Engenharia de Lisbon (Portuguese
Engineering Academy of Lisbon). Inaugurated on
December 31, 1896, it was two more years before
construction was completed and the prominent landmark
with a glistening dome appeared above the port.
The Teatro façade, restored to pink at the close

of the 20th century
. The Painted Curtain

The main stage curtain was created by Manaus-
based artist Crispim do Amaral (1845–1911) to
depict the Meeting of the Waters (see p289), and
also a local river goddess, Iara. The curtain is
pulled up into the specially designed cupola
at the start of each performance.
The Wooden Floor

The opera-house floor, laid with
thousands of pieces of Amazon
timber, is a masterpiece of
craftsmanship. The light and dark
patterns represent the meeting of the
Negro and Amazon rivers (see p289).
KEY
Events
1 The roof is made of red tiles that
Regular musical
were imported from Alsace in France. events and operas
include those of
2 The columns are made from the Companhia
Italian Carrara marble. de Dança and the
3 Outside balconies are built resident Orquestra
in finely cut Portuguese stone. Filarmônica do
Amazonas.
MANAUS 287
. The Cupola VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The impressive
cupola was Practical Information
created using Praça São Sebastião, Manaus.
36,000 colorful Tel (92) 3232 1768.
ceramic tiles, Open 9am–5pm Mon–Sat. &
imported from 8 Shows: opera, theater &
Alsace on the dance performances through
Franco-German the year.
border.
. The Four Painted Pillars

A key feature of the main
auditorium is a ceiling rosette
whose four pillars were painted
in Paris and reassembled in
Manaus. The pillars create the
impression of gazing up from
underneath the Eiffel Tower.
Lobby
The lobby is furnished with Murano
chandeliers made with Venetian glass
and French bronzework.
Main Auditorium
Designed in the shape of a harp, the theater can
seat almost 700 people. Like the main columns
and the three curving balconies, the seats are
made from English cast iron. The polished
wooden armchairs are made from local
jacaranda. The lower columns bear the names
of many classical composers.
288 NORTHERN BRAZIL
Amazon Excursions from Manaus the rocks. The waterfalls

Cachoeira Iracema, Pedra da
Manaus is well located as a base from which to explore the Lua Branca, and Natal are on
rainforest. The main destinations include the Rio Negro, the Rio Urubuí and only
Lago Mamori, Rio Juma, Lago Manaquiri, Presidente accessible by boat. The Caverna
Araras is on a trail bordering the
Figueiredo, and, farther west, the splendid reserve at
Rio Urubuí. Another attractive
Mamirauá. Operators run tours, offering everything from cave is Caverna Maruaga,
basic accommodation to four- or five-star luxury lodges which has shallow river running
and boats. It is good to have at least half a day out of over its floor. Permission to visit
Manaus in order to have a reasonable chance of seeing a the caves has to be obtained
wide range of tropical birds and mammal wildlife such as from the tourist information
office in Manaus.
agoutis, monkeys, deer, or wild boar.
} Rio Negro & Ilhas de
Anavilhanas
60 miles (90 km) NW of Manaus. @
n Amazonastur, Av Ajuricaba s/n,
Novo Airão, (92) 3365 1391.
One of the least visited regions
of South America, the Rio
Negro area possesses distinctive
flora created by its acidic waters
and soil type. There is a lower
density of wildlife here than
any other area along the Rio
Negro. There are few towns
and even fewer tourist facilities
The Rio Urubuí and Cachoeira Iracema near Presidente Figueireido along the river, which stretches
right up to the Colombian and
Presidente Figueiredo some caves. Tours in and around Venezuelan borders.
62 miles (100 km) N of Manaus. @ the area can be booked from Ilhas de Anavilhanas is a
n Centro Turistico, (92) 3324 1308. Manaus or directly with local biological reserve and the
Presidente Figueiredo is a small guides through the tourist infor- largest group of freshwater
town linked to Manaus by a mation office located at the bus islands in the world. Tours to
relatively good road. There are stop. One of the best water falls visit these islands are offered
more than 100 waterfalls dotted is the Pedra Furada, where the from Manaus or from Novo
around the town, as well as water gushes out of a hole in Airão. There are over 250
Parque Nacional Jaúi Presidente Balbina

50 miles (80 km) Figueiredo Sights at a Glance
240
N Ua 1 Presidente Figueiredo
tu
eg
Repartimento m 2 Rio Negro & Ilhas de

Araju a
r
o
174 Ur Anavilhanas
Mirapinima ub
Codeagro 3 Novo Airão
uí
Santo Antônio 4 Encontro das Aguas

Rio Negro & Ilha
Branquinho
de Anavilhanas 5 Lago Manaquiri

Novo Airão Rio Preto
Maravilha da Eva 6 Lago Mamori
Tauapeçaçu 7 Instituto de Desenvolvimento
Ne
10 Sustentável Mamirauá
gr
Santa
o
352
Maria
M an
aca Amaz
p uru onas
Manaus
Conceição 70 Encontro das Careiro 0 kilometers 60
Aguas
Manacapuru Salgada 0 miles 60
Lago 254
Manaquiri Manaquiri
Anamã
Solimões
354 Lago Mamori Key
Instituto de Desenvolvimento
Sustentável Mamirauá Main road
265 miles (425 km)
Careiro Other road
Beruri 319

The Rio Negro winding through the rainforest
uninhabited islands stretching Novo Airão } Encontro das Aguas

for more than 187 miles (300 71 miles (115 km) W of Manaus. @ g from Manaus.
km). Depending on the season from Manaus. g from Manaus. One of the main tours offered
and time of day, it is possible Ibama: Rua Ministro João Gonçalves from Manaus, the Encontro das
to see caimans, sloths, snakes, de Souza s/n, Manaus. Tel (92) 3878 Aguas (Meeting of the Waters) is
frogs, and a wide range of 7100. Parque Nacional Jaú: Tel (92) where the Rio Solimões joins
bird species. Sprawled across an 3365 1345. the Rio Negro. The relatively
area of 1,350 sq miles (3,500 sq The small town of Novo Airão is creamy and alkaline light brown
km) of protected rainforest on located on the western side of or “white” water of the Solimões
the left bank of the Rio Negro, the Rio Negro, opposite the (Amazon) river takes several
the Estação Archipelago dos Anavilhanas. miles to absorb the dark, acid
Ecológica de Pleasant, yet laid-back, with water coming in from the Rio
Anavilhanas only a handful of attractions, Negro. The Solimões is light
(Ecological Station the town draws tourists because it starts mainly in the
of Anavilhanas) is part of mainly for the pink Andes and brings plenty of silt
the Anavilhanas islands. dolphins that come to with it. The Rio Negro wells up
Created in 1998 and named a platform behind the primarily in the swamplands
after the Archipelago dos El Delfin restaurant at and smaller hills of the
Anavilhanas, it boasts Novo Airão’s small northeastern Amazon and
several species in great Toco toucan in port. The restaurant contains much more
danger of extinction, Amazonas owner has been decomposed plant life than
including jaguars and feeding dolphins it does soil or silt.
night monkeys. from the restaurant for several Small boats go out from
A day-and-a-half’s journey years. Along with its standard Manaus allowing tourists to take
from Ilhas de Anavilhanas, fare, the restaurant also sells raw photographs and see the clear
Barcelos, the only town of any fish to offer the dolphins from line between light brown and
size along the river, is an inter- the wooden platform, giving black running down the middle
esting place to start a jungle visitors the opportunity of of the river. It is a two-hour
expedition. Another two days coming into close contact with return trip from Manaus, and
upriver is the town of São these friendly creatures. the best time to visit is between
Gabriel Da Cachoeira, a The area neighboring Novo 7 and 10am.
beautiful place deep in the Airão is home to a number of
Amazon with stunning jungle interesting sights, such as Airão
scenery and wildlife. Velho, the overgrown ruins of
the old town center, with
prehistoric spiral and figure-like
petroglyphs. The beautiful and
peaceful Igarapé do Mato
Grosso, a forested section of a
tributary river nearby, makes a
great place for a walk or a swim
in fresh water. The Parque
Nacional Jaú is a two-day trip
from Novo Airão, and is a
wonder ful opportunity to visit
virgin Amazon rainforest. A
Visitor feeding fish to pink dolphins at El permit is required from the Meeting of the Rio Solimões and Rio Negro
Delfin in Novo Airão Ibama office in Manaus. at Encontro das Aguas
290 NORTHERN BRAZIL
rainforest setting. Much of it is

surrounded by narrow creeks,
hidden among forests full of
sloths, monkeys, and colorful,
noisy tropical birds. The river
and lake offer the opportunity
to see both pink and gray river
dolphins, as well as to go
piranha fishing. Nearby, the
Lago Arara is great for fishing,
and home to a pink dolphin
Limpid blue sky mirrored in the clear waters of Lago Mamori feeding ground. The local
people, known as caboclos, have
} Lago Manaquiri the area. Nonetheless, fishing been here for generations and
40 miles (64 km) SW of Manaus. remains the main activity, and live in scattered riverside
∑ visitamazonastour.com/site2/en there are many tour operators communities, occasionally
A 5-hour boat ride from based in Manaus, offering coming together for celebra-
Manaus, the backwater lake of budget fishing packages. tions. They earn their living by
Manaquiri is best entered first It is always best to book your making farinha (manioc flour),
via the Rio Solimões, then trip through a travel company rearing cattle, and fishing. Visits
upstream to a tributary that registered with the Brazilian to the caboclo homes can be
leads to the lake. Its waters rise Tourism Bureau (Embratur) organized by Gero’s Tours. Run
and fall with the seasons. (see p409). Some of the tour independently by English-
Relatively isolated, the Lago agencies provide typical speaking Gero Mesquita, it can
Manaquiri is usually a good spot Amazon riverboats, which may book hotels, arrange transport,
for seeing waterbirds, including come fully equipped with and meticulously plan tours.
the great egret (Casmerodius kitchen, dining area, canopied Farther upstream and deeper
albus) and fish eagles. It is not sundeck, bathroom, and into the forest from here, the Rio
unusual to see caimans and shower. Fishing is best in the dry Juma region offers better access
large Amazonian alligators on season, which usually lasts from to wildlife, but requires
the sandy shore. August to December or January. expedition-type preparation
The lake provides sustenance and several days.
to the small fishing town of } Lago Mamori Nature Safaris, a tour
Manaquiri. Local economy 60 miles (96 km) SE of Manaus. company based in Manaus,
depends more on fishing than Gero’s Tours: Rua 10 de Julho 679, can arrange expeditions in
on tourism. In 1995 and 2005, Manaus. Tel (92) 9983 6273. Amazônia, offering short
however, both were hit by the ∑ amazongero.com Nature Safaris: package tours, as well as longer
worst drought in over 40 years, Rua Flavio Espiritu 1, Manaus. Tel (92) safaris. It is possible to stay either
when the lagoons evaporated, 3656 3357. ∑ naturesafaris.com.br in a floating lodge, or one of the
and thousands of dead fish lay Easily accessible by road and many jungle lodges along the
on the bed of the dried-up lake. boat from Manaus, the elongat- Rio Juma. Most of them offer
The changed climatic condi- ed and breathtaking Lago jungle hikes, piranha fishing,
tions continue to deplete fish in Mamori is located in a lush and caiman spotting at night.
Caimans luxuriating on the sandy riverbank of Manaquiri, with a great egret in the foreground
2 Parintins
Amazonas. * 105,000.
g from Manaus. _ Festa do
Boi Bumbá (Jun); Festa das Pastorinhas
(Dec–Jan).
A large jungle town, Parintins

was originally the refuge of a
community of indigenous
riverine people, known as
caboclos, who were escaping
Portuguese slave traders. Today,
Parintins is best known for its
popular Festa do Boi Bumbá.
The festival is celebrated in
Cormorants and great egrets in the Mamirauá Reserve June, when the town gets so
packed that visitors often stay
O Instituto de expeditions in the lakes and on boats.
Desenvolvimento trails in the forest. Though there is little else to
Sustentável Mamirauá The preserve also offers see, besides the well-preserved
280 miles (450 km) W of Manaus. comfortable and ecologically colonial architecture, Parintins is
∑ uakarilodge.com.br Programa de sound accommodation at the known for its rich indigenous
Ecoturismo: Tel (97) 3343 4160. floating Uakari Lodge (see p378) culture, and the local handicrafts
Located at the confluence of close to forest trails, pretty make unique souvenirs. The flea
two rivers, the Rio Solimões jungle lakes, and caboclo markets sell everything from
and Rio Japurá, the Mamirauá communities. Book through a trinkets, lace, and bead-work to
Sustainable Development Manaus tour company, or masks and mahogany carvings.
Reserve covers an area of directly with the Programa de During the dry season, boat
5703 sq miles (14,770 sq km). Ecoturismo in Tefé, 16 miles trips can be taken to nearby
Since 1990, when it was (25 km) south. lakes and river beaches.
declared an ecological station,
the Mamirauá Reserve has been
one of Brazil’s most prized Festa do Boi Bumbá
ecotourism spots. The vibrant festival, Festa do Boi Bumbá, is centered around a
Splendid and luxuriant, its ritualistic dance recounting the death and rebirth of a legendary
várzea (seasonally flooded) boi (ox). Originating on the 18th-century Northeast plantations, the
vegetation offers plenty of festival arrived in Parintins almost 100 years ago with the Cid brothers
opportunity for spotting from Maranhão. They brought with them the Bumba-meu-boi
abundant wildlife, including (see p47) musical influence, steeped in the vibrant rhythms of the
endemic species such as the Northeast. The last few decades saw the festival gaining in prominence.
white uakari monkey and black- Every June, at least 35,000 people crowd into Bumbódromo, a purpose-
headed squirrel monkey. The built stadium in the town center, to join in the revelries. The fantastic
annual flood transforms the life procession incorporates dazzlingly dressed participants, including
of the whole region. During the mythological beasts. The rivalry between the two competing camps,
the red Garantido and the blue Caprichoso groups, is expressed in
high-water season, fish invade
traditional songs. Over the years, this competitive spirit, which goes
the flooded forest and disperse
right down to who wears the most outlandish costume, has brought
seeds as they move about. More forth some radical and electrifying spectacles.
than 300 species of fish have
already been catalogued in the
reserve. Mamirauá is also home
to pink river dolphin, great egret,
and the rare scarlet macaw. The
Neotropic cormorant, whose
diet consists mainly of fish, can
be spotted swimming and
feeding in large, noisy flocks.
In the dry season, which lasts
from September to December,
one can walk on trails, or paddle
almost silently through them on
canoes. The preserve’s eco-
tourism program features a
range of activities, which Garantido in bright red headgear, gearing up for the contest
includes guided nature
292 NORTHERN BRAZIL
Tranquil waters of the Rio Branco, flowing past Roraima’s capital Boa Vista
3 Boa Vista route from Boa Vista to Santa 4 Rio Branco

Roraima. * 285,000. k ~ @
Elena is dotted with some Acre. * 335,000. k ~ @ n Av
n Centro Turismo, (95) 2121 2561. interesting sights. The Getúlio Vargas 91, (68) 3901 3019.
∑ turismo.rr.gov.br 8 Roraima ecological island preserve of
Adventures, (95) 3624 9611. Ilha do Maracá, 62 miles (100 Another relatively new state,
∑ roraima-brasil.com.br km) north of Boa Vista, is known Acre was annexed from Bolivia
for its species preservation and in the early 20th century by a
Created in 1991, Roraima is one biodiversity. Fringed with groves pioneering army of Brazilian
of Brazil’s newest states, and Boa of cashew trees, the enchanting rubber-tappers. It was founded
Vista is its capital city. While the Lago Caracaranã is located 112 in 1904, under the name of a
savannas surrounding it are an miles (180 km) north. rubber company, Seringal
important cattle-ranching Santa Elena de Uairén offers Empressa, by Newtel Maia
territory, the gold rush of the the best access to the Parque from Ceará.
1980s still drives development Nacional de Monte Roraima. The Parque de Maternidade
in the region. The park is ideal for trekking has magically transformed a
The Praça Civica forms the through a variety of eco-niches small town water canal into a
heart of the town’s arch-shaped with changing vegetation to long, green city walk. In the
street layout. The modern climb Monte Roraima, a point town center, just a couple of
Paláçio Municipal is here beside where Brazil, Guyana, and blocks north from the Rio Acre,
the Monumento ao Garimpeiro, Venezuela meet. At 8,970 ft which cuts the town in half,
a local monument honoring the (2,734 m) above sea level, good stands the Palácio Rio Branco.
gold miners who have brought camping equipment and Though restored, the building
significant wealth to this state. preparation is essential. maintains its original Neo-
There are good swimming Several Boa Vista-based Classical façade with four
beaches on the Rio Branco, only companies offer excellent week- columns at the entrance.
15 minutes by bus from Boa long packages. International It was built in the 1930s as
Vista. The sandy beaches right in visitors require a Venezuelan headquarters for the state
the town center, opposite the tourist card, which can be government, and retains a good
Orla Taumanam, offer excellent obtained at the Venezuelan collection of period furniture
swimming when the river is low. consulate in Boa Vista. from the 1940s and 1950s.
Environs
Boa Vista is blessed with lush
tropical rainforest, endless
stretches of savanna plains, and
pretty river beaches, which
make the surrounding region
well worth exploring. Though
ecotourism is still in its initial
stages, organized tours are
fairly developed.
A significant staging port en
route south to Manaus or north
to Guyana and Venezuela, Boa
Vista is easily connected by bus
to the Venezuelan town of
Santa Elena de Uairén, located
147 miles (237 km) north. The Rio Branco city on the banks of Rio Acre
A main feature of the palace, the

largest painting in Brazil, depicts
a scene in homage to the
revolutionary heroes who
liberated Acre from Bolivia. The
palace also contains several large
rooms dedicated to the
prehistory and history of the
region. The main focus is on the
20th-century history of Acre, and
there is a superb room dedicated
to indigenous culture, displaying
some stupendous feather
headdresses. Artifacts relating to
local history and tribes are also
displayed in the palace.
A few blocks north, the Museu Visitors walking through the ruined Forte Príncipe da Beira, Guajará-Mirim
da Borrachá (Rubber Museum)
focuses on the fascinating local 5 Porto Velho in 1912 was just in time to
ethnic culture, rubber-tappers, Rondônia. * 425,000. ~ @ g
witness the collapse of Brazil’s
and ayahuasca churches, known n Departamento do Turismo, rubber industry.
for their ceremonial use of (69) 3901 3186.
hallucinogenic herbs. Environs
Rio Branco is transforming the A very fast growing jungle Guajará-Mirim is on the Bolivian
city’s south bank of the Rio Acre, city, Rondônia’s capital, Porto border. From here, it is possible
which was the focal point Velho, has grown out of a few to visit the lonely jungle fort, the
during the rubber boom and streets beside the giant Rio Forte Príncipe da Beira, built by
until the new north-based Madeira in the last 100 years. the Portuguese in 1773.
commercial center emerged in River trips to the nearby beach The Reserva Biologica do
the mid-20th century. The of Santo Antônio are popular Guaporé near Costa Marques
municipality is restoring many for freshly cooked fish at a town, which is located 12 miles
of the buildings, which once waterside restaurant. (20 km) east of Principe de Beira
served the river port as hotels, The star attraction, however, town, is known for its diverse bird
bars, and a splendid movie is the Madeira-Mamoré Museu species. The Ibama in Porto Velho
theater, as well as merchants’ Ferroviário, where several arranges trips for researchers.
stores, making for a lively steam locomotives, some under
atmosphere. The promenade, cover, still defiantly symbolize a E Madeira-Mamoré Museu
La Gameleira, makes a perfect rusting industrial vision in the Ferroviário
location for a riverside walk. middle of the Amazon jungle. In Praça Madeira-Mamoré. Open 8am–
The Parque Ambiental Chico the main museum shed, there noon, 2–6pm Mon–Fri. & 7
Mendes (Chico Mendes are interesting exhibits from the Tel (69) 3901 3651.
Environmental Park) is located in turn of the 19th century, when O Reserva Biologica do Guaporé
the former rubber plantation at the railway was being built. Av Cabixi com Limoeiro 1942.
Itucumã near Vila Acre, 6 miles Unfortunately, its inauguration Tel (69) 3651 2315.
(10 km) south of Rio Branco. It
contains virgin forest areas, some
replica malocas (indigenous Chico Mendes (1944–88)
longhouses) and rubber-tapper A rubber-tapper union leader and environmental
dwellings, as well as a zoo and activist, Chico Mendes helped establish
the Chico Mendes memorial. the National Council of Rubber Tappers. His
design for extractive rainforest preserves won
E Museu da Borrachá him recognition by the UN in 1987, with a
Av Ceará 1441. Tel (68) 3223 1202. Global 500 award. He received another award
Open 8am–5pm Mon–Fri. from the Better World Society, before his
Environmentalist assassination by hired men employed by
E Palácio Rio Branco
the ranchers on December 22, 1988. His
Praça E. Gaspar Dutra s/n. Tel (68) Chico Mendes
untimely death brought international attention,
3223 9241. Open 8am–6pm Tue–Fri, for the first time, both to the plight of the rainforest and the
4–9pm Sat & Sun. 8 7 ^ positive solution offered simply by harvesting the rainforest’s
O Parque Ambiental Chico fruits and sustainable products. Many leading Brazilian human
Mendes rights activists, environmental campaigners, and church
Rodovia AC-40 Km 7, Vila Acre. organizations came together to establish the Chico Mendes
Tel (68) 3221 1933. Open 7am–5pm Committee, which successfully dedicated itself to seeing his
Tue–Sun. murderers brought to justice.
CENTRAL WEST
BRAZIL
Introducing Central
West Brazil 296–301
Brasília, Goiás &
Tocantins 302–317
Mato Grosso &
Mato Grosso do Sul 318–327
296 CENTRAL WEST BRAZIL
Introducing Central West Brazil

The Federal District of Brasília and four other states make up
Brazil’s Central West. Goiás and Tocantins in the east of the region BRAZIL
and Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul in the west, are areas
where the expansive wilderness of craggy cerrado-covered CENTRAL
WEST
plateaus, vast wetlands, rainforests, and deserts are beginning to BRAZIL
give way to industrialization. The slow pace of life in colonial

mining towns such as Cidade de Goiás and Pirenópolis is being
eclipsed by the urban attractions of cities such as Campo Grande
and Brasília. However, the Central West remains one of the best
regions in which to savor Brazil’s traditional rural way of life as
well as spot amazing wildlife.
Sinop
Comodoro
MATO GROSSO &
MATO GROSSO DO SUL
(See pp318–27)
Cristalino Jungle Lodge (see p323) is
situated on the banks of the Rio Cristalino, Cuiabá
in Alta Floresta. This region is rich in the
Amazon flora and fauna, and has a number
of splendid birding trails. Guided hiking
tours are also on offer. Rondonópolis
Corumbá
Campo
Grande
Bonito
Dourados
Bonito (see p327), a small, quiet town located at the southern edge
of the Pantanal, offers visitors light adventure activities such as
snorkeling in clear-water rivers, visiting caves, and hiking along short
wildlife trails.
Cattle roaming the Pantanal
INTRODUCING CENTRAL WEST BRAZIL 297
Ilha do Bananal (see p315), one of

the world’s largest river islands,
contains rivers that extend up to
155 miles (250 km), and is home to
several indigenous peoples. A bird-
watcher’s paradise, the island’s wild
interior is not easily accessible.
Paraíso do
Norte
Gurupi
BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS
& TOCANTINS
(See pp302–17)
Uruaçu
Brasília (see pp306–9), the country’s

capital, is renowned for its Modernist
buildings, many of which were designed
Pirenópolis
Brasília by the noted architect Oscar Niemeyer.
Goiânia
Rio Verde
Três 0 km 150
Lagoas 0 miles 150
Pirenópolis (see pp312–13), a

picturesque former mining town
with colonial buildings and
impressive restaurants, is a popular
weekend retreat. It is also a base
for exploring the cerrado and the
region’s numerous waterfalls.
Creation of a Capital
President Juscelino Kubitschek and his team of designers,
planners, and architects, led by Oscar Niemeyer, envisaged
Brasília not only as a city, but also as a monument to the
national motto – Order and Progress. In creating this, they
turned to European Modernism, following the doctrine of
Charles-Edouard Jeanneret (1887–1965), or “Le Corbusier,”
for their inspiration. The concept stated that modern cities
should be zoned functionally with separate areas for
housing (in high-rise blocks), recreation, and administration,
broken by green belts and roads. Juscelino Kubitschek was the
president of Brazil between
1956 and 1961. He was
responsible for the creation
of Brasília as the new, modern
capital of the country.
The Missão Cruls was commissioned by President Floriano

Peixoto in 1892 and led by the Belgian scientist Luiz Cruls. It
sought to find a possible site for a new capital in the Brazilian
interior to make a more regionally neutral federal capital
where resources could be equally divided.
Superquadra 309, a
residential neighborhood,
was built in one of the
“wings” of Brasília.
The candangos were

workers from the Northeast
brought to Brasília in vast
numbers to build the city. Brasília
Homes for their descendants
were not included in the
Located at the heart of the country,
grand plan and today Brasília Brazil’s capital city is today on UNESCO’s
is ringed with the slum cities list of World Heritage Sites, and is famous
of their children. for its innovative urban planning and
daring architecture.
1934 Possibility of a 1960 Brasília inaugurated,

1892 Luiz Eisenhower visits
Cruls sent new capital formally 1961–64 Work
to explore discussed 1946 Land on remaining
the area demarcated for buildings
Dom Bosco (1815–88) a capital continued
1880 1900 1920 1940 1960
Catedral
1883 Dom Bosco predicts Metropolitana 1956 Juscelino
a new civilization arising Kubitschek elected
between the15th and 1922 Foundation as president; Project
20th parallels of latitude stone for a future Brasília begins
city laid
Oscar Niemeyer
Born in Rio de Janeiro in 1907, Niemeyer went on
to become one of the most important names in
modern architecture. His first job was with
Le Corbusier and Lúcio Costa on Rio’s Ministry
of Education in 1936. After this he went on to
design a series of landmark buildings such as the
Contemporary Museum of Art in Niterói (see p93).
Niemeyer’s socialist beliefs led to his exile under
Lúcio Costa and Roberto Burle Marx, the urban the coup of 1964. He returned to Rio in the 1980s
planner and the landscape designer behind Brasília, and continued to work. He died in 2012.
intended that every element, from the layout of
the residential and administrative districts to the
symmetry of the buildings, should be in harmony
with the city’s overall design.
Ministerial buildings were built to

flank Praça dos Três Poderes and Eixo
Monumental (see pp306–7).
Oscar Niemeyer at his office in Rio de Janeiro
Original pen and ink drawings submitted by

Lúcio Costa in 1956 in the competition for a new
capital city show Brasília’s distinctive shape, which
has been variously interpreted as an airplane, a bird
in flight, and a bow and arrow.
American President Dwight

Eixo Rodoviária Sul is D. Eisenhower, on an official
one of the main roads visit to Brazil, inaugurated the
in the “wings” connect- new capital city of Brasília with
ing Brasília from one great fanfare on February 23,
end to the other.
1960. He also visited Rio de
Janeiro and São Paulo.
The inauguration of Brasília by President

Juscelino Kubitschek and President
Eisenhower was attended by thousands of
people. The new capital saw the installation of
the three powers of the republic – parliament,
judiciary, and presidency.
Flora & Fauna in the Cerrado

The Brazilian cerrado (meaning inaccessible in Portuguese) is
a biome unique to South America and is the tropical world’s B R A Z I L
largest woodland savanna. The cerrado landscape is made
up of scattered woods and vast swathes of grassland along
riverbanks and in small valleys. One of the richest
ecosystems in the world, the cerrado is home to almost
every species of large mammal found in South America,
Key
together with an enormously prolific birdlife. The cerrado The cerrado
landscape is home to some 10,000 plant species, of which The Pantanal
4,400 are endemic to the region.
Hyacinth macaws are an

endangered species due
to overcollection for the
caged-bird trade. They are
also hunted by the Kayapó
people (see p266), who use
their bright blue feathers in
their headdresses.
The cerrado, a sprawling
1.2-million-sq-mile
(3-million-sq-km) mix of
forest and savanna, covers
75 percent of Brazil.
Capybaras, abundant in the cerrado, are semi-

aquatic, herbivorous rodents. They live in herds The marsh
and spend most of their time feeding on river- deer is
banks, where they are easily spotted during generally a
mornings and evenings. solitary animal,
or lives in herds
of fewer than
six. It has
webbed feet
The rhea is a large, which help
flightless bird native it walk on
to South America. flooded land.
Because rheas will
eat almost any
crop plant,
farmers
sometimes kill The maned wolf is the
the birds. This, only large canid in the
along with egg world that does not form
gathering and packs. The animal, now
habitat loss, has led endangered, was hunted
to a significant drop in their by poachers for its body
numbers. The species is parts, notably the eyes,
listed among the wildlife which were believed to
of “special concern.” be good-luck charms.
Buriti Palms often

grow over subter- Conservation of the Cerrado
ranean water. They are
an important source of Central Brazil’s ancient cerrado forests are
food for many large rapidly being cleared for soya plantations
parrots and primates. and cattle ranches. Since the late 1990s,
steps have been taken to identify
conservation-priority areas and better
Savanna manage protected areas. Recently, private
formations in the reserves, established under the Private
cerrado are not Natural Heritage Reserve system, have
homogenous. Hilly
areas have denser,
become an important component of
more varied flora biodiversity protection in the cerrado. There
than the grasslands. Tractors paving the way for a new have also been more intensive faunal and
farm in the cerrado floral surveys of the region.
Ipê Tree is a large canopy tree. Its vibrant trumpet-

shaped flowers bloom in spectacular yellow, pink,
and mauve throughout the cerrado.
Flora in the Cerrado

The cerrado is characterized by its vast expanses
of grassland, scattered forests, and palm groves.
The landscape varies between the “open
cerrado,” predominantly grassland, without
trees and shrubs, and “closed cerrado,” the more
forested areas.
Flora & Fauna of Pantanal

Although the world’s largest wetland forms part of
the southern extreme of the cerrado, the Pantanal
The white-necked heron
(see pp324–5) comprises habitats most associated
is a common sight in the
with the Amazon. Many cerrado species live here, as Pantanal, especially
well as marsh deer, capybara, caimans, waterbirds, along riverbanks,
and monkeys. where it feeds.
This graceful bird builds
its nest on a platform on
trees close to the river.
Guira cuckoos
are slightly
scruffy-looking
birds that nest,
roost, and feed
Caiman numbers in the Pantanal have in groups, eat-
increased after a ban on hunting them for ing insects,
their skin and teeth (considered charms frogs, and eggs
against witchcraft) took effect. off the ground.
BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS &

TOCANTINS
The capital of Brazil since 1960, Brasília is the region’s only
metropolis. Its striking city plan and futuristic architecture make it
vastly different from any other city in the country. Goiás and Tocantins
make up Brazil’s heartland. Northern Goiás and Tocantins are mainly
wilderness areas of mountains and dry savanna, while in the south lie
the colonial towns of Pirenópolis and Goiás Velho.
Until the mid-20th century, only and a favorite watering hole for nearby
bandeirante slavers and gold hunters Brasília’s middle class. The Utopian, but
had ventured into the wilderness of impersonal, capital city sits on an exposed
central Brazil, a land of cerrado (savanna) plain under an expansive sky. Its brave
woodland, mesetas (tabletop mountains), new domes, churches, and steel-
and giant winding rivers, peopled by reinforced monoliths, now ringed with
indigenous groups such as the Xavante. favelas, should not be missed.
Some gold prospectors stayed on, Northern Goiás and Tocantins remain
building a handful of colonial towns frontier lands, where fields of soya are
near their mines. Cidade Goiás and fast encroaching upon the foothills of
Pirenópolis in central Goiás are very well the mesetas in Chapada dos Veadeiros
preserved, so much so that the former National Park, the dune-filled expanses
is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. of the Jalapão cerrado, and indigenous
Pirenópolis is famous for its festivals, the lands on the world’s largest river island,
liveliest of which, the Festa do Divino Ilha do Bananal. The scenery here is
Espírito Santo, re-enacts the battles spectacular, and adventure activities,
between the Christians and the Moors. such as canyoning and rappeling, are
The city is also a center for ecotourism, well developed.
The Palácio do Itamaraty (Palace of Arches), one of the most impressive modern buildings in Brasília
Tribute to Northeast Brazil’s migrant workers, Bruno Giorgio’s sculpture Os Candangos, in Brasília, the city they helped build
Exploring Brasília, Goiás & Tocantins

Cidade de Goiás and Pirenópolis in Goiás remain pleasant
colonial towns, while the spectacular Chapada dos Veadeiros
National Park in northern Goiás showcases the unique flora and Pontão
fauna of high-altitude cerrado. Brasília, the capital city of Brazil

from 1960 onward, was built from the dust and scrub of the
Garimpinho
central western cerrado, and is a Modernist marvel. In Tocantins
state, the Ilha do Bananal, one of the largest islands in Brazil, is
also the point at which three ecosystems converge – rainforest,
cerrado, and wetland. The dune deserts of Jalapão in Tocantins
are fringed by dry sertão, vast horizons of soya farms, waterfalls,
Araguacema
crystalline rivers, and forests inhabited by the Xavante and
Xingú indigenous groups.
Caseara
ia
gua
Paraíso do
Coco Norte
Ara
Pium
ia
DO BANANAL
ço enor do Rio Aragua

Cristalândia
Form
Dueré
oso
Gurupi
M
ILHA
Bra
Alvovorada
ta Teresa
São Miguel San
do Araguaia
Bandeirante Porangatu
Mara Rosa
Rio Preto waterfall at Chapada dos Veadeiros
Crixás Uruaçu
çu
Mozarlândia
sA
0 km 100
ixá
Barro
Cr
0 miles 100 Aruanã

Alto
Araguapaz Rialma
Goianésia
Cuiabá
CIDADE
Aragarças DE GOIÁS
Sights at a Glance PIRENÓPOLIS
São Luís de Anápolis
Towns & Cities Piranhas Montes Belos
a
Turvo
ai
Goiânia
gu
1 Brasília pp306–9 a
Ar Caiapônia Hidrolândia
2 Pirenópolis pp312–13 GOIÁS
3 Cidade de Goiás e
Verd Edéia
5 Palmas Mineiros
Cl
ar
Jataí Rio Verde

o

Natural Beauty Goiatuba
PARQUE NACIONAL
4 Parque Nacional Chapada DAS EMAS V erd
Quirinópolis
e Itumbiara
dos Veadeiros pp316–17
São Paulo
6 Jalapão
Itarumã
7 Ilha do Bananal
8 Parque Nacional das Emas
BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS & TOCANTINS 305
Araguatins
Sitio Novo
do Tocantins Teresina
Xambioa Tocantinópolis
Araguana
ns
anti
Wanderlândia
Toc
Araguaína
Piaca
Craolândia
Se
Verme
rr Itacajá
a
do
lh
s
o
Pa
re Ministry buildings, Catedral Metropolitana, and Museu Nacional, in Brasília
ns
Pedro Afonso ci
nti
s
Perdid
Toca
a
Miracema do Lizarda
Tocantins Getting Around
T O C A N T I NS Travel inevitably begins in Brasília. There is an international
Sono airport, and flights connecting with most larger Brazilian cities,
PALMAS including frequent flights to Goiânia in Goiás and Palmas in
L A P ÃO Tocantins. Roads radiate out from these cities to other towns and
JA
states cutting through the harvest land and the stunning
Porto
Nacional Ponte Alta La TrÍs scenery. Pirenópolis, a weekend getaway from Goiânia, is reached
do Norte Rios from Brasília via a filigree of small roads and regular buses. There
are daily buses to Cidade de Goiás from Goiânia via the BR-070.
Natividade Dianópolis The Chapada dos Veadeiros, which, together with Pirenópolis,
Man
u el A Salvador
boasts the best ecotourism infrastructure, is reached from the
lves
Peixe a
little towns of São Jorge or Alto Paraíso in northern Goiás. These
lm are connected to Brasília via the GO-118. Apart from the main
Tagu
Pa
atinga north–south artery, the BR-153, transportation in Tocantins is

Tocan
Paranã
difficult. Ilha do Bananal in the west and Jalapão in the east are
Paran
tins
remote and best visited on tours.

á
Campos Belos
Monte Alegre
de Goiás São
PARQUE NACIONAL Domingos
CHAPADA DOS VEADEIROS
Alta Paraiso Iaciara

de Goiás
Niquelândia Mambai
São João
da Aliança
Formosa
BRASÍLIA
Gama
Luziânia
Cristalina
Vianópolis
Pires
do Rio Belo
Horizonte
Verde
Catalão
Key
Represa de
Emborcação Major road
São Paulo
Minor road
State border
Sweeping sand dunes in Jalapão
1 Brasília
Brasília is the embodiment in concrete of President Juscelino
Kubitschek’s promise of “fifty years of economic and social
development in five,” and of the national motto – Order and
Progress. The city was built by vast teams of candangos,
workers from the Northeast, who carved it from the cerrado
at breakneck speed. They were led by urban planner Lúcio
Costa, architect Oscar Niemeyer, and landscape engineer
Roberto Burle Marx (see p299). The capital of Brazil shifted
from Rio de Janeiro to Brasília on April 21, 1960. Brasília was
added to UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1987 as an
example of daring urban planning and modern architecture.
Today, Brasília is a stately, organized city, albeit a little quiet. View of the Eixo Monumental from atop
the TV Tower at dusk
Memorial dos Povos TV Tower is the best place

Indígenas is fashioned like to get a bird’s-eye view of
Quartel General a maloca, a traditional the city. The observation
do Exército
longhouse. It is a tribute to deck is on top of the 426-ft-
Brazil’s indigenous peoples. (75-m-) high building.
VIA
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Eixo Monumental
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The Eixo Monumental, Brasília’s main thoroughfare, forms the

centerpiece of the city. Kubitschek stands at one end of the Eixo,
waving from his towering Modernist column to the seat of govern-
ment, the Congresso Nacional and Palácio do Planalto, which sit
around the Praça dos Três Poderes. Many of Brazil’s most famous
architects and sculptors were involved in its construction.
Memorial Juscelino Kubitschek

Built in honor of the president
responsible for the construction of
Brasília, this monument contains Quartel General do Exército
his mausoleum, with photographs This fusion of curves, straight lines, and jagged waves echoes the
of, and documents about, the Congress complex and is the headquarters of the Brazilian army –
construction of the city. at times the key player in affairs of state.
BRASÍLIA 307
Esplanada dos
Ministérios
Tall ministry buildings,
19 in all, are lined up
Brasília Distrito Federal.
in disciplined rows
* 2,200,000.n Tourist Office,
along Esplanada
Presidente Juscelino Kubitschek
dos Ministérios.
International Airport, (61) 3364
9102. ∑ wbrasilia.com/cat.htm
Transport
k Presidente Juscelino
Kubitschek International Airport,
(61) 3033 9000.
Os Candangos
Artist Bruno
Giorgio’s Os
Candangos was
built in homage to
the thousands of
Congresso Nacional e Anexos migrant workers from
Oscar Niemeyer’s most famous and celebrated group of Northeast Brazil who
Modernist buildings at the heart of Brasília is also Brazil’s went by this nick-
seat of government. name and who
helped build Brasília.
Teatro Nacional,
a set of four theaters,
is the most important
in the city.
Esplanada dos
RTE
Ministérios
Palácio do Planalto,
O
L2 N
Estação
Central or the President’s Office, is
one of Niemeyer’s best
V IA
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VIA
Fundaçās S-1
EIX
UL
OE
STE
L2 S
Biblioteca
Nacional VIA
VIA
Estação S-2
Galeria
Museu Nacional Palácio de Justiça,
Honestino Guimarães, the building of the
a perfect white dome, is Ministry of Justice,
another of Niemeyer’s has a beautiful
buildings. internal garden.
Catedral Metropolitana
Nossa Senhora
Aparecida
Niemeyer’s iconic
cathedral with its curved
columns and stained-glass Supremo Tribunal Federal
interior is flanked by The highest court in the country, the
haunting sculptures of Supremo Tribunal Federal is the seat of
the four apostles. Brazil’s judicial power.
Exploring Brasília
The capital of Brazil, Brasília,
is shaped like an airplane in
homage to what was then
the incipient jet age. While
to its north and south lie the
residential wings, the Eixo
Monumental (see pp306–7)
forms the body of the jet, with
the city’s major attractions.
Praça dos Três Poderes

Eixo Monumental. The interior of Santuário Dom Bosco, bathed in blue light
Congresso Nacional e Anexos:
Tel (61) 3216 1771. Open 9:30am– The latter’s Modernist columns R Santuário Dom Bosco
5pm daily. 7 Palácio do Planalto: seem to rise gently from the lily Av W3 Sul, Quadra 702. Tel (61) 3223
Tel (61) 3411 2042. Open 9:30am– pond lying at its feet to form 6542. Open 7am–7pm daily. ^
2:30pm Sun. Palácio Itamaraty: smooth arches. Inside is a The city’s finest church honors
Tel (61) 3411 6155. Open 2–4:30pm
vast hall decorated with fine the 19th-century Italian
Mon–Fri, 10–11:30am, 1–3:30pm Sat,
sculpture and paintings. The visionary saint and founder
Sun & public hols. Palácio da Justiça:
Tel (61) 2025 3216. Open 9–11am,
highlight is 19th-century artist of the Salesian order. His
3–5pm Mon–Fri. Pedro Américo’s O Grito de proclamation that a new
Ipiranga, depicting the moment civilization would arise in the
This vast square is flanked by when Dom Pedro I proclaimed third millennium between the
buildings that form the locus of Brazilian Independence (see p56). 15th and 16th parallels of
the Brazilian government. The latitudes, inspired Kubitschek to
axis of the federal state, the R Catedral Militar de Nossa build Brasília on the edge of an
Congresso Nacional e Anexos is Senhora da Paz artificial lake. The stunning
a harmonious fusion of lines and Canteiro Central do Eixo Monumental interior features an almost
curves, creating the most Oeste. Tel (61) 3323 3858. seemless panoply of glass,
monumental and timeless Open 7am–10pm daily. which ranges from light to dark
architecture in the city. On the This brilliant white triangular blue and indigo, as it ascends. In
other side of the square are the church, with its jagged windows the late afternoon, shafts of
seats of two other branches of and vast gable, echoes the light penetrate the building,
power – the Palácio do Planalto, French Notre Dame du Haut, illuminating the marble statue
the executive office of the presi- designed by Niemeyer’s mentor, of the Virgin and the vast cross
dency, and opposite it, the Le Corbusier. It was completed in whose vertical was carved from
Supremo Tribunal Federal, the 1991, and was built to house the a single piece of tropical cedar.
Supreme Court headquarters, papal altar used by John Paul II The church was blessed by John
which is closed to the public. on his visit to Brasília in 1980. Paul II on his 1980 visit.
Immediately below this group
of buildings are the Palácio Quartel General do Exército Templo da Boa Vontade
Itamaraty and the Palácio da Setor Militar Urbano. Setor Garagem Sul 915. Tel (61) 3114
Justiça, two of Brasília’s few At the northeastern end of the 1070. Open 24 hrs daily.
buildings that are more Eixo Monumental, this vast Many religions, some orthodox,
aesthetic than monumental. complex of imposing buildings some decidedly alternative,
is set in a sea of lawns and thrive in and around Brasília.
watched over by a towering This marble pyramid with open
obelisk. It was built during the sides was built to reflect the
military dictatorship and was ecumenical attitude towards
intended to show the presence spirituality which characterizes
of military power in the gov- the city. The building’s
ernment, which was notably geometry is based on multiples
absent from the Praça dos Três of seven in accordance with
Poderes. The intimidating sacred numerology. The sides
stature of the buildings conveys rise to 69 ft (21 m), the
Niemeyer’s objective of cavernous nave spans 92 ft
constructing something grand (28 m), and spiral steps wind
for the generals. He was around the interior. The central
determined that the monu- portion of the temple is
mentalism of these generals illuminated by light, filtering
should not be eclipsed by through an enormous and
Palácio da Justiça with lily pond in that of President Juscelino priceless rock crystal found at
the foreground Kubitschek (see p62). Cristalino in Goiás.
BRASÍLIA 309
Catedral Metropolitana Nossa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Senhora Aparecida Practical Information

Esplanada dos Ministérios.
Designed by Oscar Niemeyer to resemble a crown of thorns, Tel (61) 3224 4073.
this cathedral features 16 soaring curved pillars spread like Open 8am–6pm Tue–Sun.
Closed during masses: 12:15pm,
an open hand. Between them, a filigree of glass windows
6:15pm Tue–Fri, 5pm Sat, 8:30am,
is united by a fluid series of colors. The main altar and 10:30am, 6pm Sun
the altarpiece was given by Pope Paul VI in 1967, who ∑ catedral.org.br
also blessed the metal cross sitting atop the building.
The statues of the evangelists outside the cathedral are by
the Mineiro sculptor Alfredo Ceschiatti, who also sculpted
the archangels suspended from the ceiling inside.
The Catedral Metropolitana, etched against

a cloudy Brasília sky
Subterranean Entrance São Mateus

The remarkable entrance was intended to recall the catacombs Designed by
where Christ was interred, with visitors emerging out of darkness sculptor Alfredo
into the cathedral’s light. Ceschiatti (1918–
89), this 10-ft-
(3-m-) high
Curved Concrete Pillars, bronze figure of
all 16 of them, are held St. Matthew is
together at their apex by one of the four
a high-tensile steel ring. sculptures that
stand in front of
the cathedral.
Stunning Interior
Archangels hover over
the central altar, while the
light marble and ample
daylight infuse the entire
building with a
transcendent glow. The
glass panels in the interior
reflect sunlight from the
rippling water outside.
The breathtaking cachoeira (waterfall) that crashes into the Cânion do Rio Preto in the Parque Nacional Chapada dos Veadeiros, Goías
2 Pirenópolis
The picturesque town of Pirenópolis is gathered around the
Rio das Almas, surrounded by verdant cerrado woodlands,
and tucked away at the feet of low ragged hills. Pirenópolis
skillfully balances the old and the new, the traditional and the
contemporary. Crowned by Portuguese Baroque churches,
the cobbled streets clatter to the sound of cowboys on
horseback. The streets are lined with chic little restaurants,
housed in rustic 18th-century bungalows, or designed in low-
key 20th-century Art Deco style. The entire historical center
can be walked around in less than two hours. There are only a
few streets – the principal ones being Rua Direita, Rua da
Aurora, Rua do Bonfim, and Rua do Rosário, which has the Display of costumes from the Festa do
bulk of the restaurants. At weekends, a bustling crowd from Divino, Museu das Cavalhadas
Brasília fills up the streets.
E Museu das Cavalhadas
Rua Direita 39. Tel (62) 3331 1166.
This small museum contains an
incredible display of Carnaval
masks, ornate metal armor cos-
tumes, photographs, and folklore
relating to the hugely popular
Festa do Divino Espírito Santo. The
festival was originally Portuguese
but the court costumes and the
animal masks are uniquely
Brazilian, originating from Afro-
Souvenir shops selling traditional handicrafts on Rua Rui Barbosa Brazilian and indigenous customs.
The collection occupies the
R Igreja Nosso Senhor image of Nosso Senhor do ground floor of a home belonging
do Bonfim Bonfim, in the main altarpiece, to a family which has for gener-
Praça do Bonfim. Open check with was brought here from Salvador ations played a central role in
tourist office before visiting. by a convoy of 250 slaves. performances at the festival.
This simple but elegant little
church on Rua do Bonfim was R Igreja Matriz de Nossa E Museu da Família
built between 1750 and 1754. Senhora do Rosário Pompeu
One of the best-preserved Praça da Matriz. Open check with Rua Nova 33. Tel (62) 3331 1299.
churches in Goiás, this modest tourist office before visiting. Open 1–5pm Tue–Fri, 1–3pm Sat.
Baroque building is archi- This parish church, founded Set up in a corridor inside a large
tecturally similar to Matriz de in 1728, is the largest and the 18th-century house, this tiny
Nossa Senhora do Rosário and oldest ecclesiastical building museum displays regional
has a plain white façade. The in Goiás. Until 2002, when historical items, including an
the entire attractive odd collection of colonial
colonial edifice was bric-a-brac, furniture,
gutted in a fierce fire, Dickensian shelves of
it also had one of the old documents, municipal
finest Baroque interiors newsletters, an old printing
in the state. The church press, and silver jewelry.
boasted an altarpiece The museum preserves
decorated with motifs the most comprehensive
taken from the flora and well-maintained
of the surrounding Museu da Família records of the early years
cerrado, and an Pompeu of the colonial town of
impressive ceiling Pirenópolis, including
painted by the Brazilian artist, pictures and documents from
Inácio Pereira Leal, in 1864. its gold-mining days. The
The church was restored and Pompeu family does not reside
opened anew in 2006, but a here. There is a proposal to turn
The well-maintained Igreja Nosso Senhor shortage of funds has left it this treasure-house into a public
do Bonfim with a plain interior. municipal museum.
PIRENÓPOLIS 313
Festa do Divino Espírito Santo
Also known as Cavalhadas, the festival is based on Practical Information
Iberian lore dating from the Crusades and Catholic Goiás. * 23,000.
n Central de Atendimento
Whitsuntide celebrations. The festival begins 15 days
before Pentecost Sunday, with a gathering of ão Turista, (62) 3331 2633.
_ Festa do Divino Espírito
riders, known as the Folia do Divino, at the Matriz.
Cavalhadas parade Santo (May/Jun).
They then proceed out of Pirenópolis into the
∑ pirenopolis.com.br
surrounding countryside. Masked dancers, parades costume
of horsemen dressed as Crusaders, Moors, or Transport
Cavalhadas, and many cultural and musical events follow. The festival k @ Rodoviária, Rua Neco
culminates on Pentecost Sunday in the stadium, the Cavalhadodrómo. Mendonça, (62) 3331 1080.
F Teatro de Pirenópolis Art Deco Cine Pireneus Art } Santuário de Vida

Praça da Matriz s/n. Tel (62) 3331 2029 Cinema, which has an Silvestre Fazenda Vagafogo
(box office). Open box office open all impressive eclectic program. 4 miles (6 km) NW of Pirenopólis.
day on show days. Tel (62) 3335 8515. Open 9am–5pm
This delightful, restored daily. &
miniature 19th-century theater A beautifully preserved patch
is one of the town’s hidden of forest lined with streams
treasures and commemorates and exquisite trails, Santuário
the centenary of its foundation. Vagafogo makes for a good
The Teatro de Pirenópolis is best excursion. This stunning nature
visited during one of the regular preserve of cerrado and gallery
plays, performances, and shows. forests (forests along a river or
One of the most interesting stream) is home to a number
small acts in the past has of bird and animal species
featured the popular Mato such as brown capuchins and
Grosso do Sul-born guitarist armadillos. On weekends and on
Almir Sater. The Goiás singer- holidays, a small restaurant at the
songwriter, Maria Eugenia, and visitors’ center serves fantastic
the Tocantins forró singer, fare. Visitors can hire a motorbike
Dorivã, regularly play here. taxi from pick-up points in town –
Just around the corner, on The Art Deco façade of Cine Pireneus an inexpensive way to get to the
the Rua do Direita, is the little Art Cinema sanctuary – or hire a cab.
Pirenópolis
1 Igreja Nosso Senhor do
Santuário de Vida Silvestre
Bonfim Fazenda Vagafogo
4 miles (6 km)
2 Igreja Matriz de Nossa
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5 Palmas
Tocantins. * 265,000. ~ @ (63)
3228 5600. n CATUR (Centro de
Atendimento ao Turista), (63) 2111
0213. _ Carnaval (Feb/Mar).
Built in 1989, Brazil’s newest

state capital sits at the base
of a range of forested low
hills. It is a pleasant, but
sprawling, modern city. Most
visitors come to Palmas as
it is a good jumping-off point
for the numerous attractions
A cobbled street lined with town houses in Cidade de Goías that lie within the interior
of Tocantins state, most
3 Cidade de Goiás monuments here. These include notably Jalapão and the Ilha
Goiás. * 29,000. ~ @ n
the Museu das Bandeiras, the do Bananal.
Secretaría de Turismo, (62) 3371 former seat of government, Aside from the vast Palmas
7714. _ Semana Santa (Apr), which preserves a forbidding lake formed by the dam on the
Festival Internacional de Cinema dungeon and a set of rooms Rio Tocantins, Palmas’ most
Ambiental (Jun). ∑ cidades with period furniture, a interesting area is its vast,
historicas.art.br/goias magnificent Baroque public grassy main square, Praça
fountain, Chafariz de Cauda, and Giróssois, which is lined by
Like most colonial towns in the Quartel do Vinte, an grandiose public buildings and
Brazil’s interior, Cidade de Goiás 18th-century barracks, which various monuments to its
grew rich on gold. Until the now houses the tourist office. founder, José Wilson Siqueira
middle of the 20th century, it Immediately north of Praça Campos, and his legacy.
was the capital of what was Brasil Caiado and capped with
once the largest Brazilian state an attractive, though modest,
apart from Amazonas. Also Baroque church is another
known as Goiás Velho, or just square, Praça do Coreto. The
Goiás, Cidade de Goiás is a most interesting of all the city’s
magical little city nestled at the museums, Museu de Arte Sacra
foot of the rugged Serra in the Igreja de Boa Morte, is
Dourado hills. Winding cobbled located here, preserving a series
streets lined with 18th-century of hauntingly lifelike religious
town houses lead to hills effigies by José Joaquim da
capped with churches, leafy Veiga Valle (1806–74), a self-
squares and little markets. Life taught sculptor. Opposite this
here seems to trot along as it museum is the Palácio Conde
has done for centuries. dos Arcos, complete with
While historic, Goiás is far 18th-century furniture and
from being lost in a bygone age. still used by the governor on The sparkling Rio Tocantins in Palmas
The city’s busy social calendar is city visits. at sunset
a testament to its successful
fusion of the old with the new. E Museu de Arte Sacra
There is something happening Praça do Coreto. Tel (62) 3371 1207. 6 Jalapão
almost every weekend through Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–1pm
Sun. & Tocantins. 8 Korubo, (11) 9 8222
the year in Goiás, from 5028, ∑ jalapao.com; or Bananal
thoroughly traditional hooded E Museu das Bandeiras Ecotour (63) 3028 4200.
parades in Semana Santa (Holy Praça Brasil Caiado. Tel (62) 3371 1087.
Week) to some of the best Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, 9am–2pm A journey through Brazil’s
world-cinema festivals and Sun. & interior would be incomplete
classical music concerts in Brazil. E Palácio Conde dos Arcos
without a visit to Jalapão.
Many buildings and museums Praça Dr. Tasso de Camargo. Tel (62) Located deep within eastern
testify to the city’s illustrious 3371 1200. Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sat, Tocantins, this breathtaking area
past, and Goiás is small enough 8am–noon Sun. & is one of South America’s great
to see them all leisurely on foot. wilderness destinations. Jalapão,
The best place to begin a tour is stretching across 13,130 sq miles
at Praça Brasil Caiado, the large 4 Chapada dos (34,000 sq km), is made up of
square which graces the town’s a state park, three private
southern end. There are a Veadeiros protected areas, and an
number of museums and See pp316–17. ecological station, Estação
BRASÍLIA, GOIÁS & TOCANTINS 315
Ecológica. The best time to visit a guide. Indigenous

is the dry season between June communities, including the
and September. Javaés and the Karajás, inhabit
Beyond the inaccessible the island, some of whom
reaches of southern Piauí, the produce carved wooden
arid cerrado forests and incipient animals and pottery figurines.
caatinga thornlands are more The southern part of the island
pristine here than anywhere also comprises seasonally
else. Many fast-flowing rivers cut flooded forests, lakes, and
through spectacular canyons swamps filled with wildlife. This
and thunder over myriad water- is a wonderful area for bird-
falls throughout Jalapão. A watching, particularly
number of rivers are born in waterbirds. There are also black
limpid glassy springs that caimans, which grow to an
bubble forth from the sands of immense size in the dark, fish-
Jalapão. Others wind their way filled waters.
through groves of buriti palms Dark waters of the Rio Javaés, one of Ilha
called veredas. These are visited do Bananal’s rivers
by Spix’s macaws and Brazilian 8 Parque Nacional
Merganser ducks, two of the 7 Ilha do Bananal das Emas
extremely rare birds lost to the Tocantins. * 3,500. 8 Bananal Goiás. n Rua do Bonfim, Centro
rest of the continent but still Ecotour Quadra 103-S, Loja 28, Palmas, Historico, (62) 3331 2633.
found in Jalapão. (63) 3028 4200. 8 Drena, Rua Aurora 21, Centro
Towering over Jalapão’s Histórico Pirenópolis, (62) 3331 3336.
seemingly interminable plains The Rio Araguaia runs from ® Fazenda Santa Amélia, (64)
and striding out to the endless southern Goiás across Tocantins 3634 1380.
horizons are stands of state to join the Rio Tocantins
monolithic tabletop mountains, before draining into the Tucked far away in the
winding yellow sand dunes, and Amazon. In the middle of this southwest corner of Goiás and
craggy rock pinnacles. The air river sits the Ilha do Bananal, an surrounded by a sea of soya,
is so clear that even when island so vast that it has its own Emas National Park is a
these are far in the distance, rivers running through it and 500-sq-mile (1,300-sq-km) island
they appear close enough to contends with Ilha de Marajó of grassland and sparse cerrado,
touch. Trails running across (see p274) for the title of the dotted with millions of termite
the mountain summits range world’s largest river island. hills and cut by blackwater
from moderate to difficult, Access to the island’s wild rivers. The park is considered the
depending on the experience interior is not easy. Visits here best preserved cerrado in the
of the hiker. are only possible with a licensed country. In 2001, it was
The views from the top of tour operator. designated a UNESCO World
the mountains and dunes are Three ecosystems converge Heritage Site.
mesmerizing. But for the on the island – rainforest, Populations of larger
whistling breeze, it is so silent wetland, and cerrado. Bananal’s mammals, particularly the
that the infrequent pick-ups southern extremes are mostly armadillo, maned wolf, and
running across the very few dirt Terras Indígenas (indigenous puma, are so healthy here that
roads can be heard clearly even territories), where tourists are the park is a favorite location for
when they are quite a long not welcome. Its center and film crews from the BBC Natural
distance away. north are impenetrable without History Unit. It is also an
important destination for bird-
watchers, with the greatest
concentration of blue-and-yellow
macaws outside Amazônia.
Although there is no
compulsion to go on a guided
tour, it is a good idea to
organize a trip through a tour
operator in Pirenópolis, or
through the tourist office in the
nearby town of Chapadão do
Céu, east of the park. Facilities
at the park are minimal.
Accommodation is limited to
very rustic, simply appointed
Fazenda Santa Amélia in
A breathtaking view of Tocantins landscape from a dune, Jalapão Chapadão do Céu.
4Parque Nacional Chapada

dos Veadeiros
Named for the marsh deer that inhabit the area, this
national park sits on the edge of the cerrado, one of the
largest areas of wild country in the interior of Brazil. Most
easily accessed from the small town of Alto Paraíso, the
park is set in a stunning landscape. The surrounding area
is just as magical; sprawling forest is broken up by rushing
waterfalls and meadows, and dotted with stands of buriti
palms. This remarkably isolated destination offers
spectacular walks and pretty trails for nature lovers as well
as exciting outdoor adventure activities, such as rappeling Buriti palm groves, widely scattered in
the Chapada
and canyoning.
Ri o Ro nc
ad or
. Cânion Rio Preto Morro da Chapéu

3,300 ft (1,000 m)
The narrow gorges of the Rio Preto, which runs
Colinas
through the middle of the park, cut into the
sandstone cliffs. The most stunning precipice has A
N
waterfalls gushing down the cliffs. TA
N
SA
E reto
D oP
Ri O
R RA ET
SE PR
O
RI
A
RR
SE
Cachoeira
Cânion I
Cariocas
Cânion II el
Cachoeira do gu
i
Rio Preto
oM
Sã
Salto do Rio Preto Rio
São Jorge UA
DA L
VALE
Giant Anteater
One of the larger mammals in the
Chapada, the giant anteater is a
common sight.
Vale da Lua The light in
this shallow canyon is
0 km
particularly beautiful at
10
sunset. The rocks have
0 miles 6 been sculpted into
strange Daliesque shapes
by the Rio São Miguel.
BRASÍLIA, GOÍAS & TOCANTINS 317
Chuveirinho Flower
The cerrado has thousands of
endemic plants and one of the
highest numbers of species
Goías. n Av Ari Valadão, Alto
found in a single area. One such
Paraíso, (62) 3446 1159; São Jorge,
indigenous plant is this unusual
(62) 3455 1090. ® in Alto Paraíso.
meadow flower.
Open 8am–5pm Tue–Sun. Best
time to visit is April–October. &
8 visits are permitted only with
a guide, available at the park
entry station. Only 450 visitors
may enter the park at any one
s
go time and for day trips only.
São Domin Palmas
Rio
a Transport
an
@ from Brasília to Alto Paraíso,
nt
S a
Morro do Mresto
Rio then bus.
3,775 ft (1,150 m)
A
N
TA
Key
N
SA
os
Highway
E
lar
D
sC
Minor road
te
R
on
Trail
SE
oM
SERRA POUSO A
Ri
L TO Park boundary
Peak
Morro Capäo Grosso

5,050 ft (1,540 m)
Morro Peito de Moça

5,000 ft (1,525 m)
o
ret Cachoeira
oP
AS
Ri
s
Aqua Fria
Cobra
BR
s Cachoeira
o
ur
O
Rio Cristal
das
Rio do Co
S C
Rio
Morro da Baleia
DA
4,900 ft (1,495 m)
A
RR
Alto Paraíso
SE
Adventure Sports
de Goiás The Chapada is one of the most
popular places in Brazil for outdoor
adventure sports such as abseiling
Morro daBuracão Fazenda Brasília and canyoning.
5,500 ft (1,675 m) São Bento
ga
s
çe
mé
Rio Al
Trekking . Cachoeira Almeçegas

The Chapada is home to several forest A picturesque many-tiered waterfall drops over
trails, which are perfect for avid hikers and 260 ft (80 m) into deep pools, which are good for
nature lovers. swimming. Access is along a rather tortuous trail.
MATO GROSSO & MATO

GROSSO DO SUL
Once a destination for explorers and gold hunters, today Mato
Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul attract avid nature lovers. The
world’s largest wetland and a vital ecosystem, the Pantanal straddles
both states. Blessed with crystalline rivers and spectacular national
parks, and dotted with ranches and farms, this vast region is still home
to a large population of indigenous groups.
Explorations of Mato Grosso were limited to difficult to see in the closed forests of
nature expeditions and Jesuit missionaries the Amazon, it is visible in abundance
until the discovery of gold in the 18th here. In July and August, storks, ibis,
century. The gold rush led to clashes herons, and huge, colorful parrots
between Europeans and indigenous swarm the Pantanal, and can even be
groups. Many of these groups, such as the seen while driving along dirt roads. The
Bororo and Kayapó, still live in this state. wetlands are home to a diverse range of
The building of Brasília as the new wildlife, including the anaconda, the
capital of Brazil brought waves of migrant elusive jaguar, and giant otter.
workers to the Central West in the mid- Outside the Pantanal, large tracts of
20th century. In 1979, the state was split farmland are broken by low mountains and
into Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul, giant, sluggish rivers. Amazon forests cling
divided by the star attraction of the region, on in places such as Alta Floresta, Chapada
the wetlands of the Pantanal. dos Guimarães, and Bonito despite the
Very few places in the world can boast expansion of the soya industry. The entire
such enormous numbers of large birds region offers prime opportunities for bird-
as the Pantanal. While wildlife can be watching, angling, and snorkeling.
Capybara, the largest rodent in the world, frequently spotted in water ponds of the Pantanal
Snorkelers in the Lagoa Misteriosa, Mato Grosso do Sul
Exploring Mato Grosso &

Mato Grosso do Sul
Recreio
Both Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Sul are
regions of enormous plains with a handful of
mountain ranges. The main attraction of this
Barracão
region is the Pantanal, the world’s largest Panelas do Barreto
Jur
wetland. This harbors an important
T h e o d o re
uen
ecosystem with varied fauna such as
a
ALTA FLORESTA
nco
caimans, jaguars, and a profuse variety of
Bra
Aripuanã Juruena
birds. Cuiabá, Corumbá, and Campo Grande
Roo
Api Itapulúna
Morerú
seve
acá
are good springboards for ecotourists who
lt
Pe
wish to travel into or through the Pantanal. Alta ixe
s
Juara
Floresta, in the extreme north of Mato Grosso, is Juína
considered one of the best places for spotting rare Porto dos
Brasnorte Gaúchos Óbidos
birds and mammals. Bonito, in Mato Grosso do Sul, is
Porto
Ar i
an area of plunging waterfalls, caves, and crystal-clear
S an
Velho
nos
é
rivers – ideal for walks through mountains and forests, ar
gu
ar Juruena
e
and rafting and snorkeling. Flowing from central Mato C am
Grosso, the Rio Xingú has indigenous peoples from Comodoro
Utiariti MATO
GROSSO
S e r ra d e S
nine distinct ethnic groups living along its banks.

Juruena
Verde
Parecis
Sights at a Glance Nobres
Faz. Itanorte
ant
Towns & Cities

Pontes-e-
a.B
1 Cuiabá Lacerda Barra do

Bugres
ár
6 Corumbá ar CUIABÁ
b
7 Miranda a
Várzea Grande
8 Campo Grande Porto Esperidião
es
Cáceres
9 Bonito
Gom
Poconé
Cori x a
A L
nto

Be
Natural Beauty
Porto Jofre
Gr
A N
2 Chapada dos Guimarães

an
de
3 Xingú
P A N T
4 Alta Floresta Amolar

5 Pantanal pp324–5 rí
Paiaguás qua
Ta
CORUMBÁ
Barra Mansa
Porto
Esperança
MIRANDA
BONITO
Porto Jardim
Murtinho
Bela Vista
Jabiru storks, also known as tuiuiú, gather to feed in the Pantanal

M ATO G R O S S O & M ATO G R O S S O D O S U L 321
Santarém
Liberda d e
Villa Rica
u
Peixoto de
Xing
Azevedo
Peixoto
de
ze S. José
A
vedo do Xingu
u Tapirapé
Miss
uá
ssa XINGÚ Porto Alegre
ni
do Norte
Ma
Suiá
Mis
Sinop s sur
aia
rr C
A
ul
Querência
ue
ne
Jatobá Gaúcha do
tes
Norte Garapu
or
ua ero
sM
b
ia
Pl an a l t o do Canarana
em
da
Clear water of the Rio Sucuri at Bonito

a ri
Rio
Arag
Ver
M at o Gro sso
ed
Areões Cocalinho
Mazargão Paranatinga
Nova Getting Around
Xavantino
CHAPADA DOS Distances are huge in these states and there are few
GUIMARÃES General paved roads. However, the capital cities – Campo
Carneiro Goiânia
Grande in Mato Grosso do Sul and Cuiabá in Mato
Poxoréu Grosso have airports with good connections to the
Jaciara Barra do
Guiratinga Garças rest of Brazil. Alta Floresta also has an airport.
Corumbá, Bonito, and Miranda in Mato Grosso do
Rondonópolis
Sul are connected to Campo Grande by fast,
comfortable buses. Tour operators are based in the
capital cities and in Corumbá and Bonito. Most can
s
te
en Goiânia organize bookings through their websites. Tours to

rr
Co the Pantanal are also organized, and usually enter
Promissão
Pedro Gomes the Pantanal by road and spend a couple of days
exploring in canoes, motorboats, or on horseback
Coxim
from a land base. Rented 4WD are also a possibility,
Paraíso though visitors would be limited to only a few tracks
Cassilândia
along the fringes that is suitable for such vehicles.
Camapuã MATO
Inocência
Rochedo GROSSO
Cox
Aparecida
DO SUL
im
do Tabuado
CAMPO Água Clara
GRANDE
Três Lagoas
Sidrolândia
São Paulo
Bataguaçu
Maracaju Rio Brilhante Key
Dourados São Paulo Highway
Ivinheima Major road
ná
Ponta Porã
ra
Minor road
Pa
Naviraí 0 km 100
Amambaí Railroad
0 miles 100
International border
Iguatemi State border

The spectacular vista of the Chapada dos Guimarães plateau, Mato Grosso
1 Cuiabá The most interesting of the geodesic center, the tablelands

Mato Grosso. * 485,000. ~ @
city’s sights is the small of the Chapada dos Guimarães
n Sedtur, (65) 3613 9300. university-run Museu do ĺndio are reputedly imbued with
_ Festa de São Benedito (Jul). Marechal Rondon, in which energizing powers strong
some exquisite and priceless enough to reduce the speed of
Mato Grosso’s capital and the pieces of indigenous art are a car and said to be attractive to
warmest city in Brazil sits on kept. These include exhibits UFOs. While the residents of the
a low, languid plain at the of the Xavante, Bororo, and Chapada claim that this effect
foot of the Chapada dos Karajá peoples. The has been documented, skeptics
Guimarães hills. museum houses believe otherwise.
Situated on the banks some beautiful The little town has numerous
of the Rio Cuiabá, a Bororo and Rikbaktsa shops and cafés, and a daily fair
tributary of the Rio headdresses and superb selling local arts and crafts.
Paraguai, the city has pieces of Kadiwéu There are also several spiritual
some leafy squares Kadiwéu pottery, ceramics from Mato centers devoted to the New
and is known as the Museu Rondon Grosso do Sul. Age movement, which is
Cidade Verde or the growing in Brazil. Nature lovers
Green City. Cuiabá is also E Museu do ĺndio Marechal come here to admire the
a good starting point for Rondon scenery. The edge of the
excursions into the Pantanal, Av Fernando Correia da Costa. Chapada offers sweeping vistas
a vast wetland area Tel (65) 3615 8489. Open 8–11:30am, out over the patchy, remnant
(see pp324–5). 1:30–5:30pm Tue–Fri; 1–5pm Sat, Sun
Like Cidade de Goiás (see & hols. & ^
p314) and Ouro Preto (see
pp130–31), Cuiabá was originally
a flourishing gold-mining town, 2 Chapada dos
full of handsome buildings and Guimarães
fine churches. Almost all were
Mato Grosso. * 13,500. @ from
demolished in a spate of hasty Cuiabá. 8 Eco Turismo, Av Cipriano
modernization in the late 1960s. Curvo 655, Centro, (65) 3301 1393.
The town has lost most of the _ Festival de Inverno (Jul).
splendid works of José Joaquim ∑ chapadadosguimaraes.com.br
da Veiga Valle (1806–74), one
of the country’s great geniuses The town of Chapada dos
of the Baroque. Fortunately, Guimarães is set on a plateau
some of his exquisite crafts- of the same name. Said to be
manship can still be seen in about 500 million years old,
the well-preserved, vast, the majestic honey-colored
rectangular interiors of the tablelands and escarpments of
new concrete Catedral do Bom the plateau are among the
Jesus, which has an unusual oldest rock formations in the Véu de Noiva, the highest waterfall in
square, Moorish façade. world. As the continent’s Chapada dos Guimarães
cerrado forests of the Mato 4 Alta Floresta

Grosso plains. There are several Mato Grosso. * 43,000.
waterfalls in the area, the most ~ to Cuiabá, then bus.
famous and tallest of which is n Anaconda Pantanal Operators,
the Véu de Noiva, or the Bridal (65) 3028 5990. 8 Cristalino Jungle
Veil Falls. Lodge, (66) 3512 7100.
Although the Chapada has ∑ cristalinolodge.com.br
seen far more aggressive
agricultural development than Situated in the extreme north of
its counterparts in Goiás and Mato Grosso, Alta Floresta sits
Tocantins, many upland bird on the edge of the pristine
species that are not found either southern Amazon rainforest,
in the Pantanal or the Amazonian and is a rapidly growing frontier
forests can be seen here. The town. This remote town is also a
high cerrado forests, savannas, thriving agricultural settlement.
and pasturelands of the Chapada Its surrounding areas are
hold a special attraction for bird- considered some of the best in A view out over the forests of the Rio
watchers, who come the Brazilian Amazon Cristalino preserve
here in droves to for spotting rare
catalog the variety birds and mammals. large Neotropical rainforest
of birds, and perhaps One of the highlights of mammals, including the
to catch a lucky glimpse Alta Floresta is the four- endangered white-nosed
of mammals, such star hotel, Floresta bearded saki monkey, brown
as maned wolves, Red-capped Amazônica, which titi monkey, giant river otter, and
ocelots, and black- cardinal, Alta serves as a base for the three-toed sloth, as well as
tailed marmosets. Floresta Cristalino Jungle Lodge jaguar, puma, and tapir are
(see p379). present and can often be
The Cristalino Jungle Lodge spotted here. Facilities for jungle
3 Xingú sits in the Cristalino Forest walks and viewing wildlife are
Mato Grosso. @ n Fundação
Reserve deep in the forest, excellent and include English-
Nacional do Índio (Funai), Rua 8, north of Alta Floresta. The speaking, specialist guides, a
Qd. 15, (65) 3644 1245, Cuiabá. lodge is situated on the banks 164-ft- (50-m-) high canopy
∑ funai.gov.br of the Rio Cristalino, which is tower, and a very good library
the blackwater tributary of the of decent field guides.
By the end of the 19th Rio Tapajós, whose blue waters Other more challenging
century all of the great Amazon flow into the Amazon at outdoor adventure activities,
tributaries had been explored Santarém (see p278). The lodge such as camping in the
and colonized, and their is most famous for the profuse forest, trekking, survival
indigenous peoples enslaved or birdlife surrounding it, as well as techniques, rappeling,
completely wiped out. The an enormous variety of canyoning, and canoeing, can
remote region of Xingú, in the butterflies and other insects, also be arranged through the
extreme northeast of Mato reptiles, and mammals. All the Cristalino Jungle Lodge.
Grosso, was the only indigenous
settlement to survive the
onslaught and be established
as a preserve.
Home to one of the largest
areas of tribal lands in the
country, it sits as a huge island
of forest in a vast ocean of soya
plantations. These tracts of land
are concentrated around the
beautiful clear-water Rio Xingú.
Known to be sophisticated, the
indigenous peoples flourishing
in the Xingú specialize in
furniture-making and basket-
weaving, among other things.
Tourism is extremely
limited here and visits to
indigenous villages can only
be undertaken with prior
permission from Fundação
Nacional do Índio (Funai). Cristalino Jungle Lodge, in the Rio Cristalino Forest Reserve, Alta Floresta
5 Pantanal
The world’s largest wetland, the Pantanal provides a habitat
for the greatest concentration of animals in the Western
Hemisphere. Innumerable waterbirds gather toward the
end of the dry season. There are plenty of reptiles and large
mammals, including caimans, tapirs, giant anteaters, and
all of Brazil’s eight feline species. The secret to the vast
Green Kingfisher
numbers of animals lies in the diversity of vegetation and The green kingfisher is one of five
the geography of the Pantanal, a gently sloping bowl which types of kingfisher to inhabit the
floods when nutrient-rich tributaries drain from the ancient Pantanal. It is seen on the banks
sedimentary rocks of the Brazilian Shield and get trapped. of small, undisturbed rivers and
makes its nest in a tunnel.
Aquatic plants breed profusely and these provide ample food
for fish and birds, who, in turn, feed the rest of the food chain.
Barra do
Bugres
Sepotuba
ai
gu
Porto
ra
Estrela
Pa
Santa
Bárbara
Ba
rb
ad
o Porto Ja
uru
Cáceres
Esperidião
Aguapeí
es
om
oG
San Matías
nt
Be
Pixaim
Anhinga
Corixa
The anhinga is a relative of the cormorant and is
Parag
Gra
a common sight in the Pantanal. As it has no wax
uai
nd
in its feathers, it must dry its wings in the sun e

after diving for fish.
P N d o P a nt a na l
Ma t o g ro s s ens e
Amolar
0 km 50
Paiaguás
0 miles 50
ai
gu
ra
Pa
Corumbá
Urucum
Brahmin Cattle Piraputangas
The most common
animals in the Pantanal are Puga
Brahmin cattle who are Carandazal
herded by local cowboys, Bodoquena
or pantaneiros.
São Simão
KEY
1 The Estrada Parque dirt road

cuts through the southern Pantanal
and leads to the wildlife-rich
region of Nhecolândia. Like the Key
Transpantaneira, it is lined with
Major road
fazendas (farms). Porto
Minor road Murtinho
2 The Parque Nacional do
Pantanal Matogrossense formally Railroad
protects a small percentage of International border Caracol
the Pantanal UNESCO World San
San
Heritage Site. Lázaro
Carlos
. Estrada Transpantaneira VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The dirt road of Estrada
Transpantaneira is lined with Practical Information
fazendas, many of which Mato Grosso & Mato Grosso do
have accommodation for Sul. n Av Afonso Pena 3297,
tourists. Wildlife viewing is Campo Grande.
excellent and the road is Tel (67) 3314 3588.
navigable in a normal car. 8 organized tours available in
Campo Grande & Cuiabá. The dry
season (Apr–May & Sep–Oct) is
the best time to visit. Bird-
watching ideal in Jul–Sep. Fishing
best in Apr, but requires a permit
from Ibama, (67) 3317 2966.
Transport
k Campo Grande & Corumbá.
~ Caceres & Cuiabá.
Chapada dos
Guimarães
Cuiabá
Brasília
Várzea Grande
ui
C
ab Jaciara
á
Barão de Melgaço
Poconé
Rondonópolis
Planalto do o Brasília
re nç
ou
Mato Grosso oL
Sã
Rio Alegre
. Fazendas
Anhumas
Originally built as cattle ranches, many fazendas have been
Itiq
uira converted into ranch-style hotels. The fazendas are connected
Itiquira by excellent bird-watching walkways throughout the Pantanal.
Pant a n a l Correntes
M at og r o s s en s e
quar í
do Ta
n al
n ta
Pa arí
Taqu Igapó Forest
u arí Among the most
Taq Coxim Jauru diverse of the
Pantanal’s eco-
Rio Verde de
systems, the igapó is a
Co
Mato Grosso
xi
m
seasonally flooded
forest on blackwater
rivers. It is a wonderful
Ne gr o
place for wildlife-
viewing by canoe.
Maracaju
Corguinho
Rochedo
Guaicuras
a
an
Taunay au São Paulo
Miranda uid
Aq
Aquidauana
Campo
de
Bodoquena
Grande
Sidrolândia
Bonito
Serra
hante
Nioaque
Bril
Jardim
Aroeira
Maracaju
Rio Brilhante
Bela Vista
River Excursions
Dourados
Ponta Fazendas near Miranda (see p326) offer boat trips on the
Porã various Pantanal rivers. Binoculars are essential for bird and
caiman spotting.
Fazenda Meia Lua lies just on

the edge of town and is an
ideal soft adventure option.
Environs
Known for their distinctive
painted terra-cotta ceramics,
the Terena indigenous villages
surround Miranda. Tour oper-
ators in Miranda can arrange
trips to a Terena village, as well
as to the Rio Salobrinho, a
beautiful clear-water river lined
with gallery forest. Expect to
find rare bird species, including
Boats moored on the Rio Paraguai, Corumbá kingfishers and black-crowned
night herons.
6 Corumbá 7 Miranda
Mato Grosso do Sul. * 95,000. Mato Grosso do Sul. * 23,000.
~ £ @ g along Rio Paraguai. £ @ n Setur, (67) 3242 3051.
8 Campo Grande
n Secretaría de Turismo, (67) 3231 _ Festa do Homem Pantaneiro (Oct). Mato Grosso do Sul. * 665,000. k
2886. _ Festa de Nossa Senhora de ~ £ @ n Centro Informação
Candelária (Feb). The tiny town of Miranda, in the Turistica e Cultural, (67) 3314 3142.
heart of the Pantanal, hosts the
Corumbá , on the banks of the region’s liveliest festival, the Mato Grosso do Sul’s capital,
Rio Paraguai, is a small town Festa do Homem Pantaneiro. Campo Grande is also known as
surrounded by the Pantanal This grand celebration of the Cidade Morena because of its
region’s unspoilt beauty. Boat ranching and cowboy way of red earth. It is a prosperous,
rides along the river as well life features lasso contests (in modern city devoted far more
as wetland excursions form the mornings for women, at to agro-business than tourism.
Corumbá’s major attractions. night for men), and rodeos. Live Yet most visitors to the southern
Sportfishing, one of the main sertanejo bands and dancing Pantanal arrive here because
highlights, is provided at the carry on all night. the tourist infrastructure is
nature lodges, floating hotels, Miranda is an ideal base for excellent. Commerce,
and charming fazendas in visiting the southern Pantanal’s education, and tourism are
this area. various fazenda ranches (see fast-growing industries here.
Corumbá was first explored pp379–80), many of which lie The city itself has few major
by Portuguese and Spanish on the outskirts of town. The attractions, though there are
adventurers in search of gold. By Fazenda San Francisco is one many good restaurants, hotels,
the 18th century, the growing of the best locations in inland and bars, particularly along and
strategic importance of the Rio Brazil for big cats, especially around Rua Barão do Rio
Paraguai led to the construction ocelot and jaguar. The Fazenda Branco. For those who do not
of forts. The Forte Junqueira, Baía Grande preserves a diverse want to rough it out with a
built during the Paraguayan War range of Pantanal habitats, Pantanal camping tour, travel
(see p57), is the only fort still including a large caiman-filled agencies sell packages to
standing intact. lake and extensive forest. The comfortable farm hotels.
Another place worth a visit is
the Casa do Artesão, a former
prison housing an interesting
museum of indigenous and
local objets d’art. The Museu do
Pantanal also has a small
collection of indigenous art.
E Casa do Artesão
Rua Dom Corrêa 405. Open 8am–
noon Mon–Sat.
P Forte Junqueira
Rua Cáceres 425. Tel (67) 3231 5828.
Open 8am–5pm daily.
E Museu do Pantanal
Praça da República. Tel (67) 3231
5757. Open 7:30am–5pm. Rodeo at the Festa de Homem Pantaneiro
} Estância Mimosa
15 miles (24 km) NW of Bonito.
Tel (67) 8403 5213. Open 8am–3pm
daily. & 8 www.estanciamimosa.
com.br
Some of the best hiking
opportunities are offered in the
Estância Mimosa trail, which
features rivers, natural pools,
and as many as eight waterfalls.
There are various bathing spots
located in and around these
natural features. The trail goes
past the gorgeous riverside
forest of the Rio Mimoso, with
caves and a rich array of wildlife.
The fauna includes a variety of
birds and mammals, while
various kinds of fern, orchid, and
bromeliad are part of the lush
Rio Sucuri flowing near Bonito, reflecting the lush greenery around vegetation found in this area.
An optional horseback
9 Bonito } Rio Sucuri excursion is also available.
12 miles (20 km) SW of Bonito.
Mato Grosso do Sul. * 17,000. @
n Comtur. 8 Taika Tour, R. Coronel This glassy river is broken by
Pilad Rebuá 2111, (67) 3255 1354; waterfalls and large pools filled
Ygarapé Tours, Pilad Rebuá 1853, (67) with 3-ft- (1-m-) long piraputanga
3255 1733. (ray-finned fish, typical of the
Rio Paraguai basin) and silver
A one-street town, Bonito is dourado fish. Many pools are set
lined with pousadas, in woodland cut with
restaurants, shops, and wildlife trails. The gentle
tour operators whose flow of the Rio Sucuri
lifeline is tourism. It lies and the excellent
just beyond the facilities draws a plethora
Pantanal’s southern of snorkelers and rafters,
extremities, in the Serra from morning to
do Bodoquena, a low, afternoon, mainly in
cerrado-covered range the high season.
of rugged hills busy Black-collared hawk Particularly popular are
with primates and birds, the flotation points
including the black-collared where visitors begin a pleasant Lake and stalactites at the Abismo
hawk. There are numerous sights 1-mile (1.6-km) float downstream. Anhumas cavern
around Bonito, all protected by Tour agencies provide meals
regulations. Only Bonito-based and equipment. } Abismo Anhumas
tour agencies can organize trips 16 miles (25 km) W of Bonito.
and arrange permits. } Gruta do Lago Azul Open 7:30am–noon daily. &
12 miles (20 km) W of Bonito. A pothole that descends a vertical
 Aquário Natural Baía Open 7am–2pm daily. & 240-ft (73-m) deep, the Abismo
Bonita The Serra do Bodoquena is Anhumas is a cavern filled with a
4 miles (7 km) SE of Bonito. Tel (67) dotted with caves, the most large, clear, blue lake featuring
255 1193. Open 7:30am–3:30pm daily. spectacular of which is the vast stalagmites, stalactites, and
& ∑ aquarionatural.com.br Gruta do Lago Azul. The main many other cave deposits. It is
One of the natural springs in highlight is a radiant under- possible to snorkel in the lake.
the area, the Baía Bonita features ground lake that shines as The entrance to the cave is by
a pristine aquarium, which blue as a sapphire in the rappel. The growing number of
contains 30 different varieties of morning light. From the adventure activities include cave
fish. Facilities within the complex cave’s spectacular mouth, a diving and canopy tours using
include a warm swimming pool narrow path leads deep down rope bridges and zip lines.
and relaxation cabin. Snorkeling through striking stalactite A group of 16 people are
trips to the Rio Sucuri and Rio formations. At the bottom lies permitted in the cave on any
da Prata are offered by tour the lake, illuminated by ambient given day. Book with Bonito
companies. Wetsuits and light that streams through the tour agencies in advance as
snorkels are also provided. cave’s opening. training is required.
SOUTHERN
BRAZIL
Introducing Southern
Brazil 330–335
Santa Catarina & Paraná 336–351
Rio Grande do Sul 352–363
330 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
Introducing Southern Brazil

The states of Paraná, Santa Catarina, and Rio Grande do Sul form
Southern Brazil – the only Brazilian region that lies entirely outside
the tropics. Often dismissed as somehow not being truly Brazilian,
BRAZIL
this region is distinctive due to more than its temperate climate.
Although there are vital indigenous, African, and Portuguese
elements to the population, the region is largely associated with
SOUTHERN
descendants of European immigrants. The landscape features BRAZIL
tremendous contrasts – the pampas grasslands, mountains,

and the highland plateau. The distinctive cultures that have
emerged there, as along the equally varied coast, are a reflection
of Brazil’s diversity.
Cascavel
Foz do Iguaçu
Foz do Iguaçu (see pp344–7) is one of South America’s most Chapecó

impressive natural features. These spectacular waterfalls are shared by
Brazil and Argentina, with each side offering unique perspectives.
From Brazil, visitors enjoy a complete panorama, while the trails in
Argentina allow visitors to see the falls close-up.
Passo
Ijuí Fundo
0 km 150
0 miles 150
Santa Maria
Uruguaiana
Rosário
RIO GRANDE
do Sul DO SUL
(See pp352–63)
Bagé
Pelotas
São Miguel das Missões (see

p363) is Rio Grande do Sul’s
best-preserved Jesuit ruin. This
haunting place offers ample
evidence of the sophistication
of native Guaraní Baroque
architecture that emerged in
this remote region in the mid-
17th century.
Foz do Iguaçu (Iguaçu Falls), Paraná
INTRODUCING SOUTHERN BRAZIL 331
Curitiba (see p340), the capital of

Paraná, is a pretty, well-planned
town. Built during the city’s cattle
and coffee boom, today Curitiba has
well-preserved historic buildings, less
pollution and traffic than other
Brazilian cities, plenty of green
spaces, a great music scene, and
several interesting sights.
Londrina
Maringá
Ponta Grossa
Curitiba
Paranaguá
SANTA CATARINA
& PARANÁ
(See pp336–51) Joinville
Florianópolis (see pp350–51), the vibrant capital
city of Santa Catarina on Ilha de Santa Catarina, is
Itajai surrounded by quiet fishing communities and
excellent beaches. The sheltered north shore has
the most developed beaches, while the east coast
Lajes Florianópolis lures surfers attracted by giant Atlantic rollers.
Caxias do Sul
Novo Hamburgo
Porto
Alegre
Rio Grande
Porto Alegre (see pp356–7), the capital of Rio

Grande do Sul, has a host of Neo-Classical
buildings dating from the 19th and early
20th centuries. The Palácio Municipal is one
such expression of civic pride, built in 1898,
when Porto Alegre was developing into a
significant city.
332 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
Multicultural Southern Brazil

More than anywhere else in the country, Southern
Brazil has been shaped culturally and economically
by immigrants. Unlike tropical Brazil to the north,
this part was considered unsuitable for plantation
agriculture, and instead immigrants were recruited
for land colonization schemes. The legacy of its
physical isolation from “mainstream” Brazilian society
is reflected in the languages and cultures of the
immigrants. The architectural heritage is highly
valued, festivals showcase traditional music and
dance, while handicrafts and local products are sold An illustration of European immigrants aboard
in villages and on farms. a ship bound for Brazil
Azoreans
In the 18th century, Azoreans settled along
the coast of Southern Brazil, bringing with
them fishing, farming, and lace-making skills.
Villages were created, in particular on the
island of Santa Catarina, whose white-and-
blue buildings resemble those of the
Portuguese mid-Atlantic islands.
Azorean lace-making is one of the

important traditions that have been
maintained by women in villages on Fishing, the main economic activity of the Azorean community in
the island of Santa Catarina. Santa Catarina
Germans
Germans were the first non-Portuguese immigrants to settle
in Southern Brazil, in the 1850s. They were drawn to the
highlands of Rio Grande do Sul and the river valleys of north-
eastern Santa Catarina. Their dialects and traditions continue
in many rural areas, while German architectural styles are
apparent in cities such as Blumenau and Nova Hamburgo.
Old-world architecture
still dominates in the
areas of Southern Brazil
settled by German
immigrants. Many
buildings are exact
replicas of ones found
in towns in southern
Germany. In the
countryside, distinctive
half-timbered farm-
houses, built by pioneer
immigrants, remain a
common sight. German-Brazilian celebration of Oktoberfest
Italians
The first Italian immigrants
settled in Rio Grande do Sul in
1875, with tens of thousands
arriving there, and in Santa
Catarina and Paraná, over the
next 50 years. The vast majority
came from the northern Italian
provinces of Veneto and Trento,
introducing rich culinary Vineyards in the Serra Gaúcha (see p359) have become as much
traditions and the ability to a part of the landscape as they are in Italy. These endless stretches
cultivate lucrative grape vines of lush greenery form the center stage for the region’s wine
on the steepest of hillsides. production, known both in and outside Brazil.
Slavs
Paraná is the state most closely associated with Slavic immigrants
from Central and Eastern Europe, with Poles settling in and
around Curitiba from 1869, Ukrainians in the south-center of the
state from 1895, and Russians around Ponta Grossa in the early
1960s. The Ukrainians have been especially successful in
maintaining their ethnic identity.
São Josafat, a
typical Byzantine-
style church in
Prudentópolis, is
easily recognizable
by its onion dome
features. The
Ukrainian Catholic
church is pivotal in A log cabin, housed in the Museu da
maintaining Imigração Polonesa in Curitiba, is one of
Ukrainian identity the structures that were built by Polish
in Brazil. immigrants in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Other Communities
At the beginning of the 20th century, Jews from Eastern
Europe founded agricultural communities in Rio Grande do
Sul. They later moved to Porto Alegre, establishing Brazil’s
third-largest Jewish community. In the 1920s and 1930s,
many Japanese immigrants relocated to Paraná from São
Paulo, setting up coffee and soya farms. Immigrants from
other ethnic backgrounds were too few to leave legacies.
Some exceptions are the Austrians who settled in central
Santa Catarina in the 1930s, and the Dutch who came to
Paraná after World War II.
Praça Ministro Andreas Thaler,

in Treze Tílias, is named for the then
Castrolanda, a Dutch settlement thriving on dairy and Austrian Minister of Agriculture,
agricultural products, mainly soya, continues to celebrate who founded the city in 1933 for
its past in the traditional folk dances of the Netherlands. Austrian immigrants.
334 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
The Gaúcho Life

The gaúcho culture developed in colonial times in what is
now northeastern Argentina, Uruguay, and Southern Brazil.
In Rio Grande do Sul, the natives of the state – whether urban
or rural, and regardless of their ethnic origin – are called
gaúchos. Traditionally, gaúchos were semi-nomadic people
who lived by hunting wild cattle. With the introduction of
fencing and border agreements, they were reduced to being
ranch hands. Nonetheless, their legacy continues to be
strongly visible in the distinct gaúcho culture of today. In the
interior of the state, in the grasslands of both the pampas
and serra, the heirs of the traditional gaúcho employ their Old estancia Sobrado, a traditional ranch,
skills as tough horsemen on cattle estancias (ranches). Rio Grande do Sul
Clothing
Traditional gaúcho attire remains commonplace
among the rural population of the pampas and
highlands of Southern Brazil. On special occasions, city
dwellers also don gaúcho clothing, an outward sign of
the distinctiveness of Rio Grande do Sul society.
Gaúcho Dress is worn with immense

pride. “Gaúcho pants” (bombachas), a
linen shirt, kerchief, poncho, rimmed
felt-hat, and pleated boots with
fancy spurs are essential
components of traditional
gaúcho clothing.
A Silver Knife, delicately

carved, is an important
gaúcho tool, handy
weapon, and eating
implement.
Centro de Tradições Gaúchas

The worldwide Brazilian-gaúcho organization,
Centro de Tradições Gaúchas, (Center for Gaúcho
Traditions) was founded by eight Porto Alegre
students in 1948, to preserve and promote
gaúcho traditions. Today, it has more than 4,500
affiliate clubs that stage rodeos, gaúcho dances,
parades, barbecues, and other social events. A
centro can now be found wherever gaúchos live,
both within Rio Grande do Sul and as far afield as
Bolivia, Japan, and Portugal. The centros are
perhaps the most convenient way for an outsider
to observe gaúcho traditions, which are
emerging as a part of popular culture even in
non-gaúcho areas. Local tourist offices and
hotels will be able to provide information on
Parade celebrating gaúcho culture in Argentina upcoming events.
Way of Life Rodeos, often lasting

The gaúcho way of life was originally a several days, test the
nomadic one, with the horsemen wandering skills of cattlemen,
serve as social events
the pampas, hunting wild cattle for their hides.
for local townsfolk,
Working as cattle hands today, gaúchos still
and help break the
cling to many of the traditions. isolation of rural
inhabitants.
Cattle drives by gaúchos

on horseback are com-
mon sights en route to
Rio Grande
do Sul’s extensive
grassland regions.
Dance & Music

Dance performances are integral to social gatherings.
The music originates from a mixing of Portuguese,
Spanish, Basque, African, German, and Italian cultures,
with lyrics typically about local tales. Polkas and
marches form the basis of traditional gaúcho dance.
A colorful kerchief
is part of a gaúcho’s
typical dress.
Bombachas, or loose-
fitting trousers belted
with a tirador (sash), are
traditionally worn by
the gaúchos.
Accordion music first

came to Southern Brazil
with Portuguese
colonists, but was trans-
formed by exposure to
other influences. The
accordion and acoustic
guitar are the most com-
mon folk instruments.
Food & Drink Chimarrão, a sugarless

Meat, especially beef, is central to the chá mate tea, is the
characteristic and most
traditional gaúcho diet. While the gaúcho
popular drink of Rio
grill is legendary, rice, usually cooked with
Grande do Sul. The
charque (jerked beef ), is also a staple. caffeinated herbal tea is
Pumpkin and other varieties of squash are sipped through a bomba
often incorporated into stews. (a silver straw) from a
cuia (gourd). The same
cuia is generally used by
a group of chimarrão
drinkers.
Churrasco, barbecued beef popular throughout Brazil, is

cooked on metal or wood skewers rested on a support
or stuck into the ground, and roasted over a charcoal or
firewood flame.
SANTA CATARINA &

PA R A N Á
Brazil’s southern states are a delight for nature lovers, with
Paraná’s spectacular Iguaçu Falls surrounded by lush rainforest and
lovely beaches fringing the coast of tiny Santa Catarina. The region’s
long history of immigration from Europe has created a unique,
multi-layered cultural identity.
During the 17th and 18th centuries, Valley, and Italians in the southern part of
military garrisons were established all the state. The physical and cultural isolation
along the coast of Southern Brazil to guard of ethnic groups has resulted in distinct
against possible Spanish encroachment, identities being maintained in rural areas to
and immigrants from the Portuguese this day. The towns of Paranaguá, Antonina,
mid-Atlantic islands of the Azores were and Morretes in Paraná, and Laguna,
brought in to establish farming and fishing Florianópolis, and São Francisco do Sul in
settlements. Over time, these settlements Santa Catarina also retain visible
grew into important towns, and Curitiba – characteristics of their European origins.
on the trade route between Rio Grande do The main destinations for visitors to
Sul and Minas Gerais – transformed into Paraná are the Iguaçu Falls and the
one of Brazil’s most dynamic cities. surrounding rainforest. The state’s coast
From 1840 to the mid-1900s, the has escaped the excesses of development
interiors of Paraná and Santa Catarina were despite the natural beauty of Ilha do Mel,
opened to immigration, with waves of Guaraqueçaba, and Superaguï Island.
European and other settlers staking out Visitors to Santa Catarina make straight
small farms. The newcomers settled along for the beaches of Florianópolis. The
ethnic lines, with the Polish concentrated mountainous interior around São Joaquim
around Curitiba, Ukrainians in southern and Lages is worth visiting for its
Paraná, Germans in Santa Catarina’s Itajaí spectacular scenery.
Turquoise waves hitting Florianópolis beach, Santa Catarina

Catedral Metropolitana de Florianópolis, on the Ilha de Santa Catarina
338 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
Exploring Santa Catarina & Paraná

Although the uncontested highlights of this region are
Paraná’s magnificent Iguaçu Falls and Santa Catarina’s island
resort of Florianópolis, these two states have much more Paranapanema
Porto Nova
to offer. Santa Catarina’s 310-mile (500-km) coast features São Jose Londrina Colorado
sheltered coves and long expanses of beach, while in Paraná,
ná
the Atlantic forest preserves of the Parque Nacional Ilha de
Pira
Para
Paranavaí
Superagüi encompass dense virgin forest. Ilha do Mel, at Ivaí
pó
Nova
Esperança
the mouth of Paranaguá Bay, is a popular beach resort, Rondon
Porto Maringá
and just across the bay on the mainland is the scenic Camargo
port of Paranaguá. Inland, both states have a robust Umuarama
Cianorte
agricultural industry. Vast soya farms dominate large
Cruzeiro
parts of Paraná, while small family holdings are d’Oeste
characteristic of Santa Catarina. Descendants of Guaíra
Campo Mourão
European immigrants continue their traditions in Piqu
i
iri Goio-Erê
ir
these states, such as the Austrians in Treze Tílias. Palotina
qu
ná
Nova
Para
Pi
Aurora
Toledo
Campina
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Cascavel
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Sights at a Glance
rr
Guaraniaçu
Piquiri
Se
Towns & Cities
1 Curitiba Medianeira
3 Paranaguá Laranjeiras
do Sul
7 Florianópolis & Ilha de Santa FOZ DO Represa
IGUAÇU Iguaçu Salto Paz
Catarina pp350–51
Chopimzinho
National Parks, Islands & Areas Mangueirinha
of Natural Beauty Pato Ch
Branco op
im
2 Serra da Graciosa p341
4 Ilha do Mel Palmas
Campo Erê
5 Ilha de Superagüi có
pe
6 Foz do Iguaçu pp344–7
a
Ch
Xanxerê
Chapecó
S A N TA
Concórdia
Urugua
i
Façade of the Mercado Público in Florianópolis, Santa Catarina

S A N TA C ATA R I N A & PA R A N Á 339
Porecatu Represa
Capivara
Bandeirantes
Londrina Jacarezinho
Cornélio
Procópio Represa de
Arapongas Xavantes
Apucarana
Marlândia
do Sul Ibaiti
Venceslau
Ti
Bráz
bag
Low-lying islands covered with thick vegetation, Paraná

Ortigueira Telêmaco
i
Borba
Cândiddo Jaguariaíva
Ventania
de Abreu
Reserva Piraí do Sul
Iva
Ribeira
í
Castro
São Paulo
PARANÁ Cerro Azul
Ivaí
Ponta Grossa
SERRA DA ILHA DE
Palmeira GRACIOSA SUPERAGÜI
Irati
Guarapuava
CURITIBA ILHA DO MEL
a çu
São Mateus Igu
Lapa PARANAGUÁ
do Sul
ar
Mallét Guaratuba
Key
Baía de
M
União da Rio Guaratuba Highway

Negro
do
Vitória Canoinhas
São Francisco Major road
Porto União
Joinville do Sul
a
Minor road
rr
Itaiópolis
Jaraguá
Se
Bara Velha Railroad

do Sul
Caçador
International border
Blumenau Itajaí State border
C ATA R I N A
Se
Rio Brusque
Joaçaba Curitibanos do Sul Porto Belo
rr
Tijucas Baía de Tijucas

a
Campos João Ituporanga

Novos Pa
FLORIANÓPOLIS &
ul
Ri São José
o
o ILHA DE SANTA CATARINA

Ge
Lajes Palhoça
da
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sP
do Sul
el o
ra
ta
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São Imbituba
Joaquim Lagoa do
Orleaes Mirim Laguna
Tubarão
Criciúma
Getting Around
Both Paraná and Santa Catarina have excellent
Araranguá transportation facilities. Curitiba and Florianópolis have
Lagoa do international airports. Foz do Iguaçu’s international
Sombrio airport also serves many regional destinations. The road
Porto Torres network is good, with only a few towns connected with
Alegre
gravel or dirt roads. The main north–south highway (BR-
101) that hugs the coast of Santa Catarina is well
maintained but is often extremely congested in the
0 km 50 summer. Bus travel is excellent between the region’s
main centers as well as the smaller towns. There is only
0 miles 50
one passenger railroad network – the spectacular
68-mile (110-km) route linking Curitiba with Paranaguá.
340 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
its displays concentrating

on Paraná’s archaeology,
anthropology, and history.
The city’s commercial center
extends along Rua XV de
Novembro. Rua das Flores is the
pedestrianized section lined with
early 20th-century pastel-colored
shops. This area’s one truly
distinctive building is the
magnificent former city hall at
Praça José Borges, just across
from the flower market. Built
in 1916, the French-style Art
Nouveau structure was later used
Colorful shops and restaurants around Praça Garibaldi as the Museu Paranaense until
the opening of the new site.
1 Curitiba Across the square is the early To celebrate the
Paraná. * 1,730,000. k 18th-century Casa Romário contributions of European
£ from Paranaguá. n Rua da Martins, Curitiba’s oldest immigrants to the city’s
Glória 362, (41) 3352 8000. surviving house and now a development, parks have been
∑ viaje.curitiba.pr.gov.br cultural center featuring built in their honor. The best
exhibitions on the history example of these is the
Founded in 1693 as a gold- of the city. Bosque Papa João Paulo
mining encampment, Curitiba Up the hill from here, II Memorial Polonês,
developed to become the virtually adjoining the where log cabins built
largest city in Southern Brazil. Largo da Ordem, are in the 1880s by Polish
It emerged from being a minor Garibaldi and João immigrants have been
administrative, commercial, and Cândido squares. The re-erected. The buildings –
agro-processing center to grow squares are surrounded including a farmhouse,
into one of Brazil’s most by brightly painted chapel, and barns, are set
dynamic cities. Since the early late 19th- and early amid a small araucaria
1990s, Curitiba has rivalled São 20th-century houses, preserve, pine trees that
Paulo as a location for corporate now used as art galleries, originally dominated the
investment, in large measure antique shops, and landscape. Bordering the
attracted by the city’s quality of restaurants. The grandest Bosque Papa João Paulo II
life and public services, which building, however, is the and representing modern
are an example to the rest of Palácio São Francisco, Curitiba is the Museu
the country. built in 1929 and later Detail outside Museu Oscar Niemeyer.
The Largo da Ordem marks serving as the state Paranaense Popularly referred to
the heart of Curitiba’s oldest governor’s official as “The Eye” after the
quarter and features many well- residence. Renovated and construction’s central feature,
preserved historic buildings. extended, the building now the building is considered one
Dating from 1737, the Igreja da houses the Museu Paranaense, of Oscar Niemeyer’s greatest
Ordem is the city’s oldest architectural achievements.
church and the finest example
of Portuguese ecclesiastical Y Bosque Papa João Paulo II
architecture in the state. The Memorial Polonês
plain, whitewashed structure is Av Mateus Leme/ Rua Euclides
decorated inside with typically Bandeira 1200 (Portal Polonês).
Tel (41) 3313 7194. Open 9am–6pm
Portuguese blue-and-white tiles
Tue–Sun. 7
and Baroque altars. Alongside
the church is the Museu de E Museu de Arte Sacra
Arte Sacra with its small but Largo da Ordem s/n. Tel (41) 3321
well-presented collection of 3265. Open 9am–noon, 1–6pm Tue–
relics gathered from churches in Sun. 7 ^
Curitiba. On the same side of E Museu Oscar Niemeyer
the square is the Igreja do Rua Marechal Hermes 999 (Centro
Rosário, originally serving Civico). Tel (41) 3350 4400.
Curitiba’s slave population. First Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7
built in 1737, the church was E Museu Paranaense
completely reconstructed in the Rua Kellers 289. Tel (41) 3304 3300.
1930s but retains its original Façade of Igreja do Rosário on Largo Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–4pm
Portuguese colonial style. do Ordem Sat & Sun. & 7
2 Serra da Graciosa VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The mountain range that separates Paraná state’s coast Practical Information
from its interior is known as the Serra do Mar. Its southern Paraná. n Largo Dr. José Pereira
43, Morretes, (41) 3352 8000.
extension, Serra da Graciosa, is one of the largest remaining ® in Morretes. Parque Estadual
areas of Mata Atlântica (Atlantic forest) in Southern Brazil. de Morumbi: Tel (41) 3462 3598.
The Serra is rich in flora and fauna, ranging from lowland Open 24 hours daily.
subtropical to cloud forest varieties. The road and railroad Litorina: Tel (41) 3888 3488;
advance booking required.
linking Morretes and Curitiba are amazing feats of ∑ serraverdeexpress.com.br
19th-century engineering, zigzagging through some of the
Transport
most spectacular terrain in the country. The area is often £ @ from Curitiba.
shrouded with mist or fog, the result of cool air from the
highlands colliding with the warm air of the subtropical
coast. The forest thrives on such precipitation.
Parque Estadual de Marumbi

Usually shrouded with mist, trails with The Estrada Graciosa
stunning vistas crisscross this vast expanse Completed in 1873, the Estrada Graciosa winds
of Mata Atlântica. its way through the forbidding terrain of the
Taquari Serra do Mar.
Campina
ES
Grande
TR
AD
do Sul
A
GR
AC
IO
S
A
AR
Piraquara Antonina
Curitiba
M
O
D
Morretes Baía de
Paranaguá
A
Paranaguá
RR
SE
Alexandra
Barro Preto
Serra do Mar, with its forest- Morretes makes an

covered mountain range, excellent base to explore
separates Paraná’s coastal plain the surrounding region.
and highland plateau.
Key
The Litorina Major road
The remarkable Curitiba–Paranaguá Minor road
railroad line passes through 13 tunnels and
Railroad
across 30 bridges. For much of the route,
the line clings to a seemingly sheer
mountainside from which, on clear days, 0 km 10
there are wonderful views across
untouched forest toward the coast. 0 miles 10
342 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
4 Ilha do Mel
Paraná. * 1,200. g from Paranaguá.
∑ ilhadomelonline.com.br
The most beautiful of

Paraná’s islands, Ilha do Mel
offers a combination of almost
entirely undeveloped beaches,
isolated coves, and sandy
trails. The island guards the
entrance to Paranaguá Bay and
there are well-preserved ruins
of the mid-18th-century fort,
Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora
dos Prazeres, that was
constructed to ward off English,
French, and Spanish attacks.
The Farol das Conchas
(Conchas Lighthouse),
imported from Glasgow and
placed on the island’s most
easterly point in 1872, is the
best place for a stunning
Colonial buildings along the waterfront in Paranaguá panoramic view of the island,
bay, and mountains.
3 Paranaguá whitewashed building has Tourist development is
Paraná. * 142,000. £ from Curitiba.
undergone renovation and low-key. Visitor numbers are
@ n Rua Padre Albino 45, (41) 3420 contains a small collection controlled, and there are no
2940. ∑ paranagua.pr.gov.br of sacred art. roads or motor vehicles on the
island. Building work is also
Founded in 1585, Paranaguá is E Museu de Arqueologia strictly regulated. Pousadas
the oldest city in Paraná and is e Etnologia are all small and very simple,
one of Brazil’s most important Rua 15 de Novembro 575. but most are all the more
ports today. Paranaguá’s historic Tel (41) 3423 2511. Open 9am–noon, charming for this. The Ilha do
center is small enough to 1–6pm Tue–Fri, noon–6pm Sat, Sun & Mel attracts predominantly
explore on foot. The oldest public hols. & young visitors and in the
buildings are located in the
compact historic core on the
shore of Paranaguá Bay. Most of
these dilapidated, but distin-
guished-looking, 19th-century
merchants’ houses now serve as
shops or inexpensive hotels.
Also along the shore is the
former Colégio dos Jesuítas, an
imposing building that now
houses the Museu de
Arqueologia e Etnologia,
whose rich collection relates to
the region’s indigenous inhab-
itants and popular culture.
Two churches in the historic
center are worth seeking out.
The Igreja de Nossa Senhora
do Rosário, built between
1575 and 1578, has suffered
considerable changes over
the centuries but the main
structure retains a Portuguese
colonial appearance. Built in
1784 for slaves, the Igreja de
São Benedito is an excellent
example of popular colonial
architecture. The simple, Farol das Conchas lighthouse on the eastern tip of Ilha do Mel
A flock of migratory birds in the Parque Nacional de Superagüi, Ilha de Superagüi
summer it transforms into a from Ilha do Mel. Most of the sand. The island attracts
party island, with beachside low-lying island is covered with various migrating birds, but
bars open through the night. shrub forest and mangrove. the flocks of rare, red-faced
In spite of this, there can be Very basic accommodation is parrot (Amazona brasiliensis) are
few more peaceful spots available at Barra de Superagüi, endemic. Visitors can observe
on the southern Brazilian a village located on the them during the early hours
coast than on this island. The southeast of the island. The only of the evening.
beaches, some with waves other part of the island that is
suitable for skilled surfers, accessible to visitors is Praia O Parque Nacional de Superagüi
others with warm, calm water Deserta, a glorious 24-mile- Barra de Superagüi. Open 24 hrs. 8
ideal for swimming, are never (38-km-) long expanse of white arranged at Pousada Superagüi.
overcrowded. Some of the
best beaches, such as Praia
Grande and Praia de Fora, are
located on the eastern part
of the island.
5 Ilha de Superagüi
Paraná. g from Paranaguá. ®
Pousada Superagui, (41) 3482 7149.
∑ pousadasuperagui.com.br
Just a few dozen people who

make a living from fishing and
tourism inhabit the island of
Superagüi. The island is part Barreado, a regional specialty of Paraná
of the Parque Nacional de
Superagüi, the largest stretch Barreado
of intact Atlantic rainforest, or
In Paraná’s coastal towns, barreado is listed on the menu of
Mata Atlântica (see p113). The most restaurants. Now available throughout the year, barreado,
park is home to jaguars and considered a poor man’s meal, used to be eaten during Carnaval.
parrots, and is known for its Barreado is a dish that can provide food for several days and
mangroves and salt marshes, requires little attention while cooking. The dish is made of beef,
where an amazing variety of bacon, tomatoes, onion, cumin, and other spices. Traditionally
orchids grow. The park is also these ingredients are placed in layers in a large clay urn, covered,
part of the Atlantic forest and then sealed with a paste of ash and farinha (manioc flour),
reserves that were given before being cooked in a wood-fired oven for up to 15 hours.
UNESCO World Heritage Today, pressure cookers are sometimes used, and gas or electric
listing in 1999. The island is ovens are substituted for wood-fired ones. Barreado is served with
reached by boat, most easily farinha, which is spread on a plate; the meat and gravy is placed
from Paranaguá, although on top, and the dish is eaten with banana and orange slices.
arrangements can also be made
344 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
6 Foz do Iguaçu
Iguaçu Falls rate as one of South America’s great natural sights. The falls
are formed by a succession of 275 interlinking cataracts up to 246 ft (75 m)
in height cascading over a 1.8-mile- (3-km-) wide precipice. The falls owe
their origins to several successive volcanic layers of rock built up over
110 million years. Shared between Brazil and Argentina, the falls are
completely surrounded by nature preserves. The two preserves
of Brazil’s Parque Nacional do Iguaçu and Argentina’s Parque
Nacional Iguazú contain one of the largest surviving tracts
of Atlantic forest in South America.
. Garganta do Diabo
At the Garganta do Diabo (Devil’s Throat),
the river falls into the depths below with
immense power, producing a thick cloud
of misty spray.
Walkway
The walkway snaking
along one tier of the falls
is where visitors can peer
into the depths of the
magnificent, multiple
cascading cataracts.
KEY
0 meters 50
1 Estrada Velha de Guarapuava 0 yards 50
2 Porto Canoas Restaurant, with

its outdoor deck, has a wonderful
view of the upper falls.
3 Estación Cataratas is the starting
point of most of the trails. The station
also has a rest area and a food court.
4 The railroad track runs
through vast expanses of lush . Hotel das Cataratas
forest where wildlife and bird sight- This majestic 1958 hotel
ings are common. (see p381) is the only
5 Pasarelas de la Isla San Martín one that lies in the
Brazilian national park.
Paraná. n inside bus station, Foz;
(45) 3522 1027. Parque Nacional
do Iguaçu Tel (45) 3521 4400.
Open 9am–5pm daily. & 8
Note: the best time to visit is
during the rainy season between
April and July.
Tren Ecológico
Access to the trails leading to the falls in the Argentinian park is by a Transport
k Aeroporto Internacional do
miniature train which runs on natural gas. The train stops at three
stations along the way. Foz do Iguaçu, (45) 3521 4200. @
Rodoviária Internacional, 4 miles
(6 km) NE from town.
Isla San Martín Surroundings

Walkways lead up to views of seven
cascading waterfalls, including the
powerful Salto San Martín.
Powerboat Trips
The falls can be experienced from close up in
hired powerboats that skim the rapids to the
very foot of the falls.
The Argentina Falls

Although the Brazilian side is
the best place for panoramic
views of the falls, it is easier to
get closer to both the main
cataracts as well as a series of
smaller ones from the network
of trails on the Argentinian side.
The Argentinian forest preserve
is larger than the Brazilian one,
with good walkable trails,
. Wildlife requiring more time to explore.
The forests around Foz do There is also a greater likelihood
Iguaçu host many rare wildlife of being able to spot wildlife The Sheraton Internacional Iguazú, close
species, including jaguar, ocelot, on the Argentinian side. to the falls
and harpy eagle.
346 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
Exploring Iguaçu
The spectacular falls are located near the Brazilian city of Foz
do Iguaçu and the sleepy Argentinian town of Puerto Iguazú.
Thanks to excellent roads and tourist facilities, the huge
numbers of visitors do little to detract from this majestic sight.
Both sides are flanked by lush national parks, abundant with
wildlife, and offering sweeping views of the falls, as well as
options to go closer to the cascades by boat. The region of
Iguaçu, meaning “Great Waters” in Tupi-Guaraní (see p51), was
declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986. The ground-dwelling red-winged tinamou
at Parque das Aves
Key Medianeira park has large aviaries housing

some 180 species of birds from
Major road São Miguel different Brazilian ecosystems
Minor road do Iguaçu and include macaws, parrots,
International border toucans, red-winged tinamous,
Park boundary BRAZIL and flamingos. Apart from a
277 butterfly habitat and a reptile
Santa Terezinha exhibit, the park also has a
do Itaipu successful breeding program
açu that concentrates on Brazilian
Ig u
Parque endangered species.
Foz do Iguaçu Nacional
do Iguaçu
PARAGUAY Parque O Parque Nacional do
das Aves Iguaçu
Puerto Parque
Iguazú Nacional Iguazú Tel (45) 3521 4400. Open 9am–5pm
Macuco Safari Deseado daily. & 8 7
Tropical ∑ cataratasdoiguacu.com.br
das Cataratas Created in 1939, Brazil’s first
0 km 15 ARGENTINA national park is today one of
0 miles 10 the most visited sights in the
country. Public and tour buses
Foz do Iguaçu spectacular waterfalls located to leave visitors at the visitors’
400 miles (639 km) W of Curitiba. ~ the east. Foz also boasts a wide center near the park’s entrance
@ n Av das Cataratas, (45) 2105 range of accommodations, as where they transfer onto
8128. Itaipu Binacional: Av Tancredo well as reasonably good bars electric-powered, open-topped
Neves 6731. Tel (45) 3520 6999. Open and restaurants. buses for the falls, located 6
8am–4pm daily. & 8 mandatory. miles (10 km) into the park.
7 ∑ itaipu.gov.br Y Parque das Aves The bus stops at the Estação
Foz do Iguaçu, also referred to Rodovia das Cataratas Km 17. Tel (45) Macuco Safari, where visitors
just as Foz, was a sleepy little 3529 8282. Open 8:30am–5:30pm can (for an additional charge)
border town until the 1970s, daily. & 7 ∑ parquedasaves. transfer onto a smaller electric-
when construction work com.br powered vehicle that takes
began on the nearby Itaipu Located close to the main them along a forest trail to the
Binacional, the world’s largest entrance to the Parque Nacional Rio Iguaçu. There, inflatable
hydroelectricity plant. Today, do Iguaçu, the Parque das Aves powerboats carry visitors across
Foz is a base from which visit serves as an excellent intro- rapids toward the Garganta do
the city’s main attraction, the duction to Brazilian birdlife. The Diabo (Devil’s Throat) and to
virtually the foot of the falls.
Along the way are various
rest points from where there
are spectacular panoramic
views of the main series of
falls. At the trail’s lowest point
there is a secure walkway
that leads to a platform where
one can peer into the stunning
Garganta do Diabo, a deep
gorge into which the fierce,
cascading waters of the
Jungle Explorer trucks transporting visitors to the falls falls plummet.
Exploring the Argentinian

Side
The Argentinian side of Iguaçu
has a larger share of the
waterfalls, and offers an intimate
experience with a greater
variety of perspectives. The
quiet little town of Puerto
Iguazú is a good place to
make a base.
O Parque Nacional Iguazú

Tel (54) 3757 491469.
Open 8am–6pm daily. & 8 7
∑ iguazuargentina.com
Whereas the Brazilian park’s A rainbow arcs above the Rio Iguazú, Parque Nacional Iguazú, Argentina
great attractions are the
spectacular panoramic views of The Passeio Inferiores is a short Puerto Iguazú
the falls, the Argentinian park circuit offering even more 6 miles (10 km) S of Foz do Iguaçu. ~
has an extensive network of spectacular views of the falls @ n Av Victoria Aguirre 66, (37)
forest and waterside trails, from below. This circuit takes a 5742 0722. ∑ iguazuturismo.gov.ar
which offer visitors close-up little over an hour and involves Traveling between Foz and the
views of the smaller falls. As well climbing up and down stairs. Argentinian park by public
as the Passeio Garganta do Especially remark able are the transport involves changing
Diablo, there are trails to the parts of the trail across catwalks buses in the Argentinian town
Passeio Inferiores and the allowing amazing views over of Puerto Iguazú. Although
Passeio Superiores. cascading water. At the lowest Puerto Iguazú boasts few
From the park’s excellent point, boats make the short sights, its quiet, tree-lined
visitors’ center, a miniature crossing to the Isla San Martín, streets make for attractive
railroad takes visitors to the an island located in the heart wandering, with wooden,
Estación Central where the of the falls. Walking on the rather than concrete, buildings
Passeio Inferiores and Passeio island also requires a high level predominating.
Superiores circuits begin. From of fitness, as it involves A short walk along Puerto
the Passeio Superiores, visitors clambering up steep slopes Iguazú’s main artery, Avenida
can look down onto and across and across some jagged rock Victoria Aguirre, leads to the
dozens of cataracts. This circuit formations. The Passeio Hito Tres Fronteras (Triple
has concrete catwalks going Garganta do Diablo catwalk Borders Landmark). From here
behind the falls, which used begins at a quiet point there are superb views of the
to lead to the Garganta do upstream, passing several small Rio Iguaçu and Rio Paraná
Diablo until the floods swept islands before reaching its final, rivers and across the rivers to
them away. majestic destination. Brazil and Paraguay.
Wildlife in the Iguaçu Region

The extent of native flora and fauna that the parks offer is
varied. Over 2,000 species of flora have been identified, including
ferns, bromeliads, orchids, and many large species of trees that
serve as support for an equally large variety of climbing plants.
In turn, this serves as a habitat for a similarly varied range of
wildlife, lured by fruit, nesting spots, and dens. Although there
are 450 varieties of bird amid this forested area, by far the most
likely place to spot many of these is the Parque das Aves. With a
Capucin monkey, Parque Nacional Iguazú practiced eye, birds can also be spotted within the forests and
clearings of the national parks; the best time for bird-watching
is early in the morning and at dusk when toucans, parrots, and
hummingbirds abound. Some 80 kinds of mammals, with five
varieties of feline, including jaguars and pumas, also rove the
forest. Early morning and evening are the best time to see
animals, with monkeys sometimes seen drinking from pools
in the Argentinian park, or swinging overhead through the
forest’s canopy. The most commonly sighted mammal is the
coati. One of the great joys of Iguaçu during the warm summer
Coati, one of the most commonly spotted months is the immense quantity and variety of colorful
mammals in the park butterflies that flutter about.
The bright colors of the historic downtown area of Curitiba, Paraná

350 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
7 Florianópolis & Ilha de Santa Catarina

Santa Catarina’s capital, Florianópolis, is one of South
America’s hippest destinations. A gateway to the Ilha de
Santa Catarina, the sprawling urban center of Florianópolis
is also the transport hub for the rest of the island. The
industrial zone occupies the mainland, while the colonial
center sits across the bay on the island. The island’s north
shore has pretty beaches and warm, tranquil waters that are
popular with families. The Atlantic rollers of the east coast
have made the island one of the world’s great surfing
centers. In the daytime, Praia Mole and Praia Joaquina are
crowded, while the bars of the town of Centro da Lagoa Colorful fishing boats moored in the village
bustle until early morning. of Riberão da Ilha
Canasvieras
During the summer (Dec–
Feb), the warm water and
safe swimming of the resort
Ingleses do
of Canasvieras especially Rio Vermelho
attract families from São
Paulo and Argentina. Praia dos
Ingleses
Cachoeira do Praia Grande/

Bom Jesus Moçambique
Ponta das
Canas São João do
Rio Vermelho
Praia de
Canasvieras 403
Praia da Barra
Canasvieras da Lagoa
Vargem
Grande 406
to nes
Praia de Jurerê o Ra
402
Ri
Costa da
Praia de Daniela Lagoa
401
Forte de
São José Santo Antônio
de Lisboa
Sambaqui
Praia do
Forte Cacupé
. Santo Antônio de Lisboa
This charming little village, with BAÍA
the church as its focal point, NORTE
is the best preserved of the
island’s 18th-century Azorean
settlements. Fishing provides
the community’s basic livelihood.
KEY
1 Centro da Lagoa, an important

fishing center, is primarily known FLORIANÓPOLIS
for its lively nightlife, stylish bars,
and restaurants.
101
Biguaçu
2 Campeche is renowned for some
of the finest beaches on the island.
3 Ribeirão da Ilha is mainly visited . Florianópolis 407
for its excellent seafood restaurants, The attractions of Florianópolis include
the prime attraction being oysters, Mercado Público, which features upbeat bars,
farmed just offshore. as well as some 150 stands with fruits,
Angelina
vegetables, seafood, and handicrafts.
Santa Catarina. n Av Paulo
Fontes 1101, (48) 3228 1095.
® _ Festa do Divino (May,
Jun or Jul).
Transport
k 7 miles (12 km) S of
Florianópolis, then bus or taxi. @
for all beaches: Av Paulo Fontes,
Centro, Florianopólis. Taxi: Latina
Rent a Car, (48) 3266 0177.
Barra da Lagoa
This pleasant fishing village and beach sits at the mouth of the Rio
Barra. Lined with a choice of accommodations and restaurants, it is
particularly lively in the summer season (Dec–Feb). The clear river water
is perfect for swimming.
. Praia Mole
Surfers and hang-
gliding enthusiasts
favor the laid-back
Praia Mole to showcase
their talents. A number
of pleasant beach bars
and eateries line the
relaxed beach.
Praia Joaquina
Praia Brazil’s famous surfing center is
Barra da backed by huge dunes. The cold
Lagoa water and the rough sea make it fit
Praia
only for the strongest of swimmers.
Barra
Ri o
da Lagoa B Mole
arr
406
a
Key
Lagoa da
Conceição Joaquina
Major road
Praia
Centro da Joaquina Minor road
Lagoa
Praia do
Campeche
ILHA 406 0 km 5
DE SANTA 0 miles 3
CATARINA Campeche
FLORIANÓPOLIS Praia da Armação

401 Morro das Pedras
Carianos Armação
Aeroporto Lagoa 406
Internacional do Peri Pântano
de Florianópolis Praia Pântano
do Sul do Sul
282
Ribeirão Praia do
B A Í A Tapera da Ilha Saquinho
da Base 401
S U L
Tapera
da Sul
São José Caieira da
Barra do Sul
Palhoça
Barra do
Aririú
RIO GRANDE DO SUL

The vast rolling pampas, rugged landscape, and fertile valleys
of the Serra Gaúcha range are the dominant physical features
of Rio Grande do Sul. A distinctive regional identity emerged
with the semi-nomadic gaúcho, whose culture is still most
apparent here. Although arable farming is important, the area
is dominated by large, sprawling cattle estancias or ranches.
In 1494, even before Brazil was officially The forested highlands had an
“discovered,” the Treaty of Tordesillas even smaller population. European
divided South America between Portugal immigrants settled here on small
and Spain. An imaginary line was drawn farms in the mid-18th century. These
through the continent with land to its agricultural, wine-producing colonies
west awarded to Spain and that to its grew rapidly and soon transformed the
east to Portugal. Although Brazil was Serra’s landscape and economy. By
Portuguese, the area that is now the early 19th century, Rio Grande do
Rio Grande do Sul was Spanish. Sul had become synonymous with
Neither power, however, controlled beef. The charque (dried beef ) industry
this frontier region. developed around the southern town
Even after Brazil’s independence in 1822, of Pelotas. The introduction of railroads
only a few military garrisons and small and refrigeration gave a further boost
coastal settlements existed here until to the industry.
the mid-1800s. Apart from its obvious Beautiful mountain resorts and
strategic significance, the economic extraordinary hiking can be found around
potential of this sparsely populated the canyons of Parque Nacional dos
province was gradually being recognized. Aparados da Serra. Both gaúcho and
Until the mid-19th century, indigenous European influences have instilled a
Guaraní people and gaúchos inhabited the distinct cultural identity in this state,
pampas, largely the preserve of wild cattle. offering a unique Brazilian experience.
Pastoral scene of cows grazing in Rio Grande do Sul

A tourist steam train readying for departure in Caxias do Sul
354 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
Exploring Rio Grande Do Sul

The pampas that characterize the interior of southern
and western Rio Grande do Sul are the state’s economic RIO GRANDE
heartlands. Porto Alegre, the state’s capital, is a bustling DO SUL
city which is culturally rich and ethnically diverse. The
windswept coast is for the most part unrelentingly bleak,
and is fringed by lagoons and sandbars, making it one of
the world’s longest beaches. The araucaria pine forests,
immense canyons, and terraced vineyards of Bento Key
Gonçalves and Flores da Cunha in the northeast make Area illustrated
perfect backdrops for charming country hotels, wineries,
and mountain resorts. In the far west, the ruins of São
Miguel das Missões are a haunting reminder of the
Ijuí
Jesuit legacy in Brazil. Santa Barbara
do Sul
SÃO MIGUEL
DAS MISSÕES Ibirubá Tapera
Jóia Cruz Alta
Sights at a Glance Bossoroca
Represa
Towns & Cities Passo Real
Capão do Cipó
1 Porto Alegre pp356–7 Jacuizinho
Tupanciretã
2 Nova Petrópolis Salto
i
3 Gramado
ar
Santiago Estrela Velha do Jacuĺ

gu
Júlio de Castilhos
4 Canela
Ja
6 Bento Gonçalves Jari

7 Caxias do Sul Jaguari
8 Flores da Cunha Santa Pinhal Grande
São Pedro Maria
9 Antônio Prado do Sul
São Vicente
National Parks & Beach Resorts do Sul Restinga Seca
0 Parque Nacional dos Aparados Cacequi
RIO GRANDE
da Serra Cachoeira
Formigueiro
q Torres Azevedo Sodré
do Sul
Villa Nova
do Sul
Churches Rosário do Sul
w São Miguel das Missões p363 Cacapava do Sul
San
São
Gabriel
ta Ma
Tour
5 Vale dos Vinhedos p359
ria
Lavras do Sul
Rivera Santana da
Minas de Boa Vista
Camaquã
Torquato Severo Camaq
uã
Bagé
Piratini
Seival
Pinheiro
Machado
Pedro Osório
Forested hill, Parque Nacional dos Aparados da Serra

RIO GRANDE DO SUL 355
Key
Highway
Major road
Minor road
Railroad
State border
Freshwater fishing bird on the coast of Rio Grande do Sul

Passo Fundo
Curitiba
Lagoa
Vermelha
Vacaria
Vila Maria Casca
Soledade Nova Bom Jesus

Prata
Ta
ANTÔNIO PRADO
i
nh
Guaporé
as
BENTO FLORES DA CUNHA

GONÇALVES
Pouso Novo
VALE DOS CAXIAS DO SUL PARQUE NACIONAL DOS
VINHEDOS APARADOS DA SERRA
Boqueueirão São Francisco de
do Leão Lajeado Paula TORRES
NOVA CANELA
PETRÓPOLIS
GRAMADO
Novo Hamburgo Riozinho
Santa Cruz
do Sul São Leopoldo
Canoas Osório
DO SUL Jacuí
PORTO ALEGRE Tramandaí
Pantano
Grande Butiá Guaíba Viamão
Capivarita Palmares do Sul Quintão
Encruzilhada
do Sul Sentinela do Sul
Cerro Grande do Sul
Dom
s
Tapes
to
Feliciano
Pa
Amaral Camaquã
s
Ferrador
do
0 kilometers 50
Cristal
0 miles 50
a
Mostardas
go
La
Boqueirão
Canguçu
São Lourenço
do Sul
Pelotas
Bojuru Getting Around
Porto Alegre, the state’s capital, has an airport which
Estreito
Pir
ati serves the capital cities of neighboring countries and
ni
major Brazilian cities. Excellent roads and good bus services
São José
Rio Grande do Norte connect all parts of Rio Grande do Sul with Porto Alegre.
Cassino Well-surfaced highways even connect most of the smallest
towns and villages. It is essential to have a hire car, or to
make advance arrangements to be met by a guide in the
nearest town, if an estancia (ranch) stay has been organized.
The Serra range is about two hours from Porto Alegre, and
the most direct route is the congested BR-116 highway.
356 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
1 Porto Alegre P Praça da Matriz

Catedral Metropolitana: Tel (51) 3225
Founded in 1755 on the right bank of the Rio Guaiba, 4980. Open 9:30am–6:15pm Mon–Fri,
Porto Alegre served as a Portuguese military garrison that 9am–4:30pm Sat. 7 Museu Júlio
de Castilhos: Tel (51) 3221 3959.
guarded against Spanish encroachment into southern Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. Palácio
Brazil. Today, it is Rio Grande do Sul’s capital and an Piratini: Tel (51) 3210 4100. Open
important trading port. The city has some impressive 9:30–11am, 2–5pm Mon–Fri. 8 7
public buildings and a lively street life. Most sights are Teatro São Pedro: Tel (51) 3227 5100.
Open noon–6pm Tue–Fri, 4–6pm Sat
located in the Cidade Baixa (Lower Town) and Cidade & Sun. 8
Alta (Upper Town) areas of downtown, while the best
restaurants, bars, and hotels are mainly concentrated Designed by the renowned
Italian architect Giovanni
in the suburbs. Giovenale, the 1772 Catedral
Metropolitana features graceful
( Mercado Público classical columns, geometrically
Praça XV de Novembro. perfect designs, and a large
Open 6am–6pm Mon–Sat. 7 hemispherical dome. The
Dating back to 1869, the present structure dates from
Neo-Classical-influenced 1921. There are a number of fine
Mercado Público has a vast 19th- and early 20th-century
collection of stalls selling buildings around Praça da Matriz.
household goods, fruit, vege- Just off the square is the
tables, herbs, wine, meat, and Museu Júlio de Castilhos, with
fish. Characteristic of the region an interesting collection of
are the herb stalls selling chá artifacts relating to the region’s
mate (herbal tea) as well as history. The imposing Palácio
bombas and cuias (silver straws Piratini, just west of the
and drinking gourds). Also of cathedral, serves as the
interest are the stalls devoted to governor’s residence. It was
African-Brazilian religious rituals, built in 1909 in a fascinating mix
a reminder of the importance of Neo-Classical, Baroque, and
of those traditions in a part of Rococo styles. To the square’s
the country associated primarily Façade of the Mercado Público, an excellent north, the grand Neo-Classical
with European culture. market for regional items Teatro São Pedro is the city’s
Porto Alegre City Center

1 Mercado Público Rodoviária
Bus Station
3 Museu Júlio de Castilhos Trensurb
Station Mercado
4 Palácio Piratini Público
RU
5 Teatro São Pedro

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0 meters 500
0 yards 500

* 1,415,000. n Mercado do
Bonfim, Loja 12, Parque
Farroupilha, (0800) 517 686.
_ Semana Farroupilha (Sep).
∑ portoalegre.rs.gov.br/
turismo
Transport
k 4 miles (6 km) N of city. @
The picturesque Parque Aldeia do

E Memorial do Rio Grande Imigrante, Nova Petrópolis
do Sul
Praça da Alfândega. Tel (51) 3224 2 Nova Petrópolis
Ornate foyer of the Neo-Classical Teatro 7210. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat,
1–5pm Sun. 7 66 miles (106 km) N of Porto Alegre.
São Pedro
∑ memorial.rs.gov.br * 18,700. @ n Av XV de
Novembro, (54) 3281 1398. _ Festa
prestigious concert and theater The memorial features exhibits do Folklore (Aug), Frühlingsfest (Oct).
hall. Built in 1858, it is a popular relating to the state’s social and ∑ novapetropolis.rs.gov.br
venue for lunch and tea. political history. It also houses
the state archives and an oral German immigrants arriving in
E Museu de Arte do Rio history center. the 1820s were the first to settle
Grande do Sul in the rolling hills north of Porto
Praça da Alfândega. Tel (51) 3227 E Casa de Cultura Mário Alegre. The town of Nova
2311. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun. Quintana Petrópolis, founded in 1858,
^ = - ∑ margs.rs.gov.br Rua dos Andrades 736. Tel (51) 3221 remained relatively isolated until
Late 20th-century works by 7147. Open 2–9pm Mon, 9am–9pm the mid-20th century and
local artists are prominently Tue–Fri, noon–9pm Sat & Sun. 7 retains a strong German
displayed in this museum. ∑ ccmq.rs.gov.br character even today.
More absorbing, however, is This Neo-Classical building Stretching along Avenida
the small section devoted to was designed as a hotel in 15 de Novembro, the town’s
19th-century art. The museum 1923 by German architect commercial center features a
also hosts a number of inter- Theo Wiedersphan. For many number of German-style
esting traveling exhibitions. years, it was also the home buildings. Midway along the
of Mário Quintana, one of avenue is the interesting Parque
E Santander Cultural the state’s foremost poets. Aldeia do Imigrante, which
Rua 7 de Setembro 1028. Tel (51) 3287 Today, it hosts exhibitions pays tribute to the region’s early
5500. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Fri, relating to modern art settlers. Set within an araucaria
11am–7pm Sat & Sun. 7 and literature. forest, the park houses a
This vibrant arts complex has an collection of beautifully
impressive repertoire featuring E Usina do Gasômetro reconstructed, half-timbered
art, music, and cinema. The Av Presidente João Goulart 551. buildings dating between 1870
Neo-Classical building originally Tel (51) 3289 8112. Open 9am–9pm and 1910. The Lutheran church,
served as a bank between 1927 Tue–Sun. houses, school, smithy, and
and 1932. Despite extensive Built in 1928 as a thermo- cemetery help re-create the
renovations, it retains many of electrical power station, the atmosphere of a 19th-century
its original features including Usina opened in 1991 as a German hamlet. The park also
stained-glass windows. cultural center hosting theater hosts festivals and concerts and
and art features a large bandstand and
exhibitions. It beer hall.
also houses a The hamlets and farmsteads
wine museum surrounding Nova Petrópolis
and an art-house also have a distinctly German
cinema. The flavor. Here, German is still the
west-facing dominant language and old-
terrace offers world traditions, such as music
spectacular views and dance, thrive.
of the sunset
over the river. Y Parque Aldeia do Imigrante
There are daily Av 15 de Novembro 1966. Tel (54)
boat trips from 3281 1254. Open 8am–5:30pm daily.
Works on display at the Museu de Arte do Rio Grande do Sul the adjacent pier. &7
358 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
1953 in English Neo-Gothic

style, with other buildings in
an eclectic mix of local and
European styles. Thanks to the
presence of students attracted
to highly regarded tourism
colleges, the town has a vibrant
feel to it.
Environs
Most of the forests of the Serra
were devastated in the 19th
century in the quest for
araucaria pine. Today, some
of this forested area is being
preserved. Approximately
5 miles (8 km) north of Canela is
the Parque do Caracol, a forest
Swiss-style chalet, a common sight in Gramado reserve with a 429-ft (131-m)
waterfall. A highlight here is the
3 Gramado Environs 927-step stairway leading to the
* 32,000. @ from Porto Alegre. Just 4 miles (6 km) north from base of the cascade from where
n Av Borges de Medeiros 1647, (54) Gramado’s main avenue is the visitors can best appreciate its
3286 1475. _ Festival de Gramado Vale do Quilombo. Approached force and the surrounding
(Aug), Natal Luz (Nov 3–Jan 15). by a steep dirt road, much of forests. A farther 3 miles (5 km)
∑ gramadosite.com the valley’s original dense Mata north along the road from
Atlântica (Atlantic rainforest) Caracol is the Parque da
Brazil’s best-known mountain remains and the climate is Ferradura, a forest reserve
resort, Gramado does all it can warmer and more humid. notable for the dramatic views
to mimic a central European The Ecoparque Sperry supports of the horseshoe-shaped Rio Caí
village. Although there are an abundance of fauna and of the Arroio Caçador
no Alpine peaks, the hilly including coati, toucans, and canyon and waterfall.
landscape, reaching just 2,706 ft howler and capuchin monkeys. The area is a popular
(825 m) around Gramado, is Forest trails pass magnificent destination for adventure
quite dramatic and the views waterfalls that enhance the tourism, with rafting along the
are fantastic. The flower-filled valley’s scenic splendor. fast-flowing Rio Paranhana.
Parque Knorr and the Lago The valley floor is cultivated Rappeling down its gorge
Negro, an artificial lake and picturesque. Half-timbered allows for close-up views of
bordered by pine trees farm buildings, which were built the terrain.
imported from Germany’s Black by German immigrants in the
Forest, allow for pleasant strolls. 19th century, are to be seen Y Parque da Ferradura
“Swiss chalet” is the dominant alongside the road. Estrada do Caracol. Tel (54) 9962 5927.
architectural style and, with the Open 9am–5:30pm daily. &
profusion of geranium-filled Y Ecoparque Sperry Y Parque do Caracol
window boxes, chocolate shops, Vale do Quilombo. Tel (54) 9629 Estrada do Caracol. Tel (54) 3278 3035.
and restaurants specializing in 8765. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Open 8:45am–5:45pm daily. &
cheese fondues, one is &80
encouraged to believe that
Gramado has connections with
Switzerland. This is entirely an 4 Canela
affectation as only a very tiny * 38,000. @ from Porto Alegre.
minority of the population is of n Central de Informações, Lago da
Swiss origin and, beneath its Fama 227, (54) 3282 2200.
veneer, Gramado has more in ∑ canelaturismo.com.br
common with an American
shopping mall. Chilly winters, refreshing
Gramado survives almost summers, and unspoilt nature
entirely on tourism. During attract visitors to Canela, once a
the first two weeks in August, stop-off point for cattle being
the city hosts the Festival de herded across Rio Grande do
Gramado, one of Brazil’s most Sul’s grasslands. The town is
prestigious film festivals, dominated by the Igreja Matriz
which also attracts an inter- Nossa Senhora de Lourdes, an Majestic waterfall, Parque do Caracol,
national crowd. imposing stone church built in near Canela
5 Tour of Vale dos Vinhedos

Some of the best wine in Brazil is produced in Vale
dos Vinhedos. The majority of inhabitants here are
descendants of immigrants from Veneto, Italy, and life
in the Vale dos Vinhedos follows a pattern very similar
to that in the corner of northeast Italy. In an area of
virtual monoculture, grape is central to the year’s
activity, while the Catholic chapels are cornerstones
for the maintenance of Italian traditions.
6 Casa Valduga
Comfortable guest
rooms and Picturesque vineyard in the Vale
excellent food is dos Vinhedos
offered by this
pioneer of the
production of
7 Capela das Neves
high-quality
Built in 1907, this is the
Brazilian wines
earliest surviving chapel
and agritourism.
in Vale dos Vinhedos.
5 Vinícola Pizzato
Still small-scale producers, the
Pizzato family offers tastings and sell Veranópolis
Monte Belo an extensive range of wines.

do Sul
Bento
Gonçalves
Santa
Teresa
0 km 1
0 miles 1
Caxias do Sul
Porto Alegre
4 Famiglia Tasca 2 Memorial do Vinho
These typical stone and wood This small, fascinating 1 Capela das Graças
farm buildings are among the exhibition charts the Honoring Our Lady of
oldest wineries in the valley. development of the local Grace, this capela is one of
wine production from the many Catholic chapels
1875 to present. that are central to the
Key valley’s Italian immigrants.
Tour route
Other road
Tips for Drivers

Starting point: Bento Gonçalves
(see p360).
Length: Allow a full day to
visit several wineries and a stop
for lunch.
Driving conditions: The main 3 Vinícola Miolo
road is paved while the side roads The largest vineyard in the valley, Vinícola Miolo produces some
have good-quality gravel surfaces. of Brazil’s best wine. The visitors’ center tells the story of Miolo’s
development and allows tastings.

360 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
Environs
Garibaldi, a small town just
12 miles (20 km) south of Bento
Gonçalves, is known for its
surprisingly good champagne-
style sparkling wines. Part of the
attraction of getting to this little
town is the ride on the steam
engine known as Maria Fumaça,
or “Smoking Mary,” a name
commonly given to tourist
steam trains (see p424).
Passing through the
landscape’s patchwork of
Vinhos Salton, one of the many wineries in Bento Gonçalves vineyards, the 15-mile (23-km)
route is covered in an hour and
6 Bento Gonçalves Visitors to the cooperative are a half. The high point of the
* 100,000. @ n Rua Mal Deodoro shown the entire production journey is the stop at an
70, (54) 3454 3169. ∑ turismobento. process from the crushing observatory overlooking the
com.br of grapes to bottling. Tours Rio das Antas at the point
culminate with tastings. There where the route curves in a
Examine a bottle of Brazilian are also numerous cantinas horseshoe shape.
wine and, in all likelihood, (wine cellars) dotting the town
the label will indicate Bento center which also offer free
Gonçalves as its place of origin. tours and tastings. 7 Caxias do Sul
Bento, as the city is usually Smaller producers also * 395,000. ~ @ n Praça Dante
called, is one of the largest produce fine wines. These Alighieri, (54) 3202 2255.
producers of wine in are located just a short
Brazil, with virtually distance from down- Founded in 1875, Caxias do Sul –
every patch of land town Bento, and or simply Caxias, as it is usually
outside the city indeed vines extend called – along with Bento
growing vines. The right up to the city Gonçalves, was one of the
city’s economy relies limits and through earliest Italian colonias to be
solely on grapes and the beautiful Vale dos established in the Serra. Like
wine production, as a Wine produced in Vinhedos, the Valley its neighboring settlements,
result of which Bento’s Bento Gonçalves of Vineyards (see p359). commercial activity at first
vintners dominate the revolved entirely around wine
Brazilian market. Cooperativa Vinícola Aurora production, but over the next
Bento was one of the Rua Olavo Bilac 500, Cidade Alta. century other agro-processing
earliest Italian communities Tel (54) 3455 2000. industries, as well as textiles and
established in the Serra Gaúcha Open 8:15am–5:15pm Mon–Sat, metalworking, developed.
in 1875. However, the rapid 8:30–11:30am Sun. 8 7 Today, Caxias is Rio Grande do
growth of the city’s urban E Museu do Imigrante Sul’s second-largest city after
center in recent decades Rua Erny Hugo Dreher 127, (Planalto). Porto Alegre.
has left few traces of Italian Tel (54) 3451 1773. Open 8–11:15am, Although tower blocks and
influence during the early years 1:30–5:15pm Tue–Fri, 1–5pm Sat, other concrete buildings have
of immigration. The Museu do 9am–noon Sun. & overtaken much of Caxias, some
Imigrante has a rich collection
of artifacts relating to Bento’s
pioneer settlers, with rooms
focusing on the arrival of the
immigrants and the central
role of the Catholic church in
the community and farming,
in particular viticulture.
Wine is still produced in
town by large commercial
operations. The Cooperativa
Vinícola Aurora is the best
known, and Aurora is the most
prominent wine producer in
Brazil, with a membership of
some 1,300 families, most of
whom farm in the valley. Maria Fumaça, plying between Bento Gonçalves and Garibaldi
9 Antônio Prado
* 14,000. @ n Rua Luiza Bocchese
68, (54) 3293 1500. ∑ antonioprado.
com.br
The last of the major

settlements, Antônio Prado was
established in the Italian
colonial zone in 1886. Located
in the zone’s northern extreme
and, until fairly recently, with
poor links to other centers,
Artifacts displayed in Museu Casa de Pedra in Caxias do Sul Antônio Prado failed to make
the transition from farming
visible traces of the city’s dialect of their immigrant community to industrial town.
heritage survive. The Museu forbears, making it the most The lack of development is
Municipal, built in 1880 as a Italian of Brazilian towns. one of the reasons why the
private residence, documents town was declared a National
the history of Caxias, starting Environs Heritage Site in 1989. Its
with the arrival of the first Located in a fertile and particular attraction is its
immigrants from Veneto. The picturesque valley, Otávio concentration of wooden,
museum’s permanent collection Rocha, 8 miles (13 km) stone-base buildings erected
includes objects, documents, southwest of Flores da Cunha, is by Italian immigrants.
and photographs charting the especially striking, with vines Clustered around the town’s
development of the city. extending down to the main central square, Praça Garibaldi,
The Museu Casa de Pedra, streets. The village has become and the roads that extend
housed in a carefully preserved a popular place to eat and there immediately off it, some 48
stone farmhouse built in 1878, is a good choice of restaurants historic buildings are protected
sheds light on the lives of the specializing in simple, but tasty, and perfectly maintained.
pioneer settlers with interesting northern Italian country fare. Most of the brightly painted
displays of tools, furniture, Another 4 miles (7 km) west clapboard structures with their
and photographs. of Otávio Rocha is Nova Pádua, unchanged interiors have been
another wine-producing turned into shops or small
E Museu Casa de Pedra município, whose inhabitants government offices.
Rua Matteo Gianella 531, Bairro Santa are descended from Venetian One of these buildings is now
Catarina. Tel (54) 3221 2423. immigrants. The village’s focal the town hall on Praça Garibaldi.
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & point is the church, character- Also located on Praça Garibaldi,
E Museu Municipal istically Italian in style with a the Museu de Antônio Prado
Rua Visconde de Pelotas, 586. bell tower set slightly to the offers a useful historical
Tel (54) 3221 2423. Open 9am–5pm side of the main structure. overview of the development
Tue–Sun. & 8 A short distance farther west, of the town.
there are breathtaking views
below onto the fast-flowing Rio E Museu de Antônio Prado
8 Flores da Cunha das Antas and a landscape of Rua Francisco Marcantônio 77.
the Antas Valley, a mix of vine- Tel (54) 3293 1277. Open 8:30–
* 27,000. @ from Caxias do Sul.
yards and primary forest. 11:45am Tue–Fri, 1:30–5pm Sat & Sun.
∑ floresdacunha.com.br
The fact that Flores da Cunha

boasts one of the highest
concentrations of wineries in
Rio Grande do Sul will come as
little surprise to visitors. Just
about every available patch of
land in the municipality is given
to grape vines and cantinas,
ranging from small artisan wine
producers to huge cooperatives.
The town of Flores da Cunha
itself is unremarkable, but the
surrounding villages and
hamlets could easily be
mistaken for simple northern
Italian farming communities,
even maintaining the Venetian Colorful stone-base wooden houses in Antônio Prado
362 SOUTHERN BRAZIL
border with the neighboring

state of Santa Catarina. Torres
is named for a series of huge
basalt rocks, or “towers,” that
jut into the ocean and break
the otherwise seemingly
unending beach. The towers
are located in the Parque da
Guarita, on the southern
perimeter of town. Between
the sea-cliff towers are sandy
coves offering protection from
fierce Atlantic rollers. Stairs lead
to caves on the cliffs facing
the open sea, which were
formed over the course of
millions of years by the force
Araucaria pine trees above the Cânion do Itaimbezinho, Aparados da Serra of the ocean. From a hill at the
southern edge of the park,
0 Parque Nacional observatories offering views visitors can enjoy tremendous
dos Aparados da of the canyon. The longest trail, views of the beautifully rugged
Serra Trilha do Rio do Boi, can be coastline or trek through the
challenging for unseasoned dunes of 2-mile- (4-km-) long
@ from Canela to Cambará do Sul, hikers. It is closed in the rainy Praia de Itapeva. The water at
then taxi. n Rua Pres Getúlio Vargas season due to the danger Itapeva is tranquil and favorable
978, (54) 3251 1262. Open 9am–6pm of flooding. for swimming.
Wed–Sun. & The best season to visit
The highland plateau of the park is in winter (May to
Southern Brazil emerged from August), when visibility stretches
the accumulation of layer upon to the base of the canyon and
layer of ocean sediment, with the toward the coast. September is
resulting rock formations lifted the worst time to come here,
up to form the Brazilian Shield. with low cloud and heavy
Some 150 million years ago, lava rainfall. During the rest of the
poured onto the shield to create year, fog often obscures views,
a thick layer of basalt rock. Cracks though it can lift very quickly.
emerged at the edge of the
plateau, taking the form of
narrow, but deep, canyons. It is q Torres
around one of the largest of
* 34,000. @ from Porto Alegre.
these canyons – Canion do n Rua José A. Picoral 171, Centro,
Itaimbezinho – that the Parque (51) 3626 3226. ∑ torres.rs.gov.br
Nacional dos Aparados da Serra,
one of Brazil’s first national parks, The main highlight of the long
was created in 1959. coastline of Rio Grande do Sul Waves lapping against the cliffs, Parque
Canion do Itaimbezinho is a is Torres, located near the da Guarita
2,360-ft- (720-m-) deep, 4-mile-
(6-km-) long canyon featuring
several ecosystems merging
The Rise and Collapse of Jesuit Missions
into one another with transition For much of the 17th and 18th centuries, the
zones between them. The Guaraní Indians of what is now northwestern Rio
plateau around Itaimbezinho Grande do Sul, as well as parts of Argentina and
is mainly given over to cattle Paraguay, were controlled by the Jesuits. The first
pasture, while dense Mata redução (community) was established in 1610; 30
Atlântica (see p113) covers others followed, including Brazil’s São Miguel, which
Itaimbezinho’s lower reaches. was founded in 1632. Over time, Guaraní-influenced
Baroque music, architecture, painting, and sculpture
The abundant flora ranges from
began to flourish. The Spanish and Portuguese
lichens and mosses to orchids authorities became increasingly concerned about
and other flowering plants and the power of the Jesuits, while Rome was worried
giant araucaria pines. Trails that the order was too independent of papal
around the edge of the canyon authority. In 1756, Spanish and Portuguese forces
are well marked, varying in Santa Cecilia, expelled the Jesuits. The missions were razed to the
length between 1 mile (2 km) wood sculpture ground or abandoned to nature.
and 4 miles (6 km), with
w São Miguel das Missões VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Surviving through centuries of neglect, the São Miguel Practical Information

Mission presents a fine example of the Guaraní-Baroque São Miguel. n (55) 3381 1294.
& _ Semana Farroupilha (Sep).
style, a blend of Iberian and indigenous architectural ∑ rotamissoes.com.br
elements. These influences are visible in architectural Museu das Missões: Rua São
details, particularly in the carved stonework and in the Nicolau s/n. Open 9am–noon,
wooden sculptures housed in the museum. The mission 2–6pm daily (winter); 9am–noon,
2–8pm daily (summer). 7 -
was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. = Sound & Light Show: 7pm
Although the area around São Miguel has been given over (winter), 9pm (summer) daily. &
to farmland, the mission retains an air of isolation. Transport
@ from Porto Alegre to Santo,
then bus.
The Bell
The mission’s bell was not Inner Corridors
only rung as a call to prayers, A network of corridors
but also to warn of attacks gives a sense of the
by roving gangs hunting extent of the original
for slaves. mission site, which at its
height housed 4,000
people.
The façade is a replica of Il Gesù,
the Jesuits’ mother church in Rome.
Only one of the two original towers
remains intact.
Brick and stonework,

made from local
materials, was mainly
used in the mission’s
construction.
Entrance
Museu das Missões Ruins of Jesuit Buildings

Designed in 1937 by Lúcio Costa, this early Little remains of the workshops, school
Modernist building was inspired by Jesuit- rooms, cloisters, and living quarters of the
Baroque architecture. The museum houses Jesuit mission. However, it is still possible to
statues and other relics excavated locally. make out their distinct areas in the ruins.
TRAVELERS’
NEEDS
Where to Stay 366–381

Where to Eat & Drink 382–397
Shopping in Brazil 398–399
Entertainment in Brazil 400–401
Specialized Holidays &
Outdoor Activities 402–405
366 TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY
Given the size and diversity of Brazil, it is no In tourist areas, the options include large,
surprise that the country offers an excellent fancy, all-inclusive, internationally known
selection of accommodations to suit every resort properties, as well as Brazilian-owned
taste and pocket. Large cities have a wide chain and individual hotels. There are also
range of business hotels that comprise small, privately owned establishments, or
everything from budget brands and deluxe pousadas, that may only have two or three
international properties such as Grand Hyatt, rooms and are either very simple and basic
Sofitel, and Belmond (the latter formerly or very sophisticated and, depending on
known as Orient-Express), to privately size, border on being boutique hotels.
owned, cutting-edge boutique hotels such There has also been a growth in good-
as the Fasano and Unique in São Paulo. quality hostels.
Booking financial security; this will many smaller properties may

Brazil is one of the most active probably not be the case if require payment in advance to
Internet countries in the world, the traveler books direct. cover the entire duration of the
and the majority of hotels, During the high season, and stay, especially in high season
pousadas, and lodges have their especially during Carnaval and or for weekend specials.
own websites through which it is the Christmas-to-New Year It is also normal for hotels in
possible to make reservations and period, many hotels and pousadas Brazil to ask the client to send a
look at facilities in more detail. in Brazil will expect guests to stay photocopy of the credit card used
Many larger properties also appear for a minimum number of nights. to make the reservation. The
on international booking engines This will need to be taken into reason for this is due to the
and travel sites such as Expedia consideration, since one- or two- increasing number of travelers
and Last Minute. In places where night stays may be difficult to find who change their travel plans and
there is an English-speaking staff, if you want to move around. Book then try to deny they ever made
it is also possible to make tele- in advance during high season, as the reservation. A copy of the
phone and email reservations. good rooms are not easy to come credit card – if not reported stolen
In the age of the Internet, it is by last minute. Weekends can also – does tend to prove that the
important for the traveler to check get quite crowded. In all cases, person did make the reservation.
how financially protected they are prices will be higher in the high Credit cards are accepted as
if they do book directly and the season or at the weekend in payment at most properties,
property they choose goes out leisure locations. especially in bigger cities.
of business. Under European Only the larger hotels in
regulations, any company based bigger cities will handle
in the EU that sells a “package” (a Prices & Payments traveler’s checks. Checks
combination of flight, hotels, car Just as travelers want financial drawn on Brazilian banks are
rental, among other things) must security, so do hotel and generally acceptable, as is cash.
be bonded through an approved pousada owners. A deposit will Many places accept payment
body that will protect the client’s certainly be required, whereas in US dollars, but they will set
A swanky new Serhs Natal Grand Hotel on Via Costeira, Natal

Street cafés in the World Heritage Site of Paraty, Rio de Janeiro
W H E R E TO S TAY 367
Plush lobby of Hotel Bourbon Curitiba, one of Curitiba’s premium hotels
the exchange rate, which will served them well during their even separate kitchens for
often be high. stay. This could be the chamber- mothers needing to prepare
When booking, it is important maid, the bellboy, or bar staff. food for babies and smaller
to check what taxes are included Many of the people who serve children. Many large hotels
in the price. These may include visitors will be earning the can also organize babysitters.
a 10 percent service tax, a 5 per- minimum wage of around Advise the hotel of the age of
cent sales tax, and, in some areas US$300 per month, so any tips your children and any special
of Brazil, a nightly tourist tax. can make a real difference. requirements you may need for
Prices throughout Brazil vary them in advance. If the hotel
greatly, and it is rare that any does not have it already, it may
traveler should ever need to pay Children be willing to obtain it by the
the rack rate as advertised by Many Brazilian families travel time you arrive.
the hotels. Like airlines, hotels with their nanny in tow and
often make special offers are quite happy taking their
available even through their children with them wherever Disabled Travelers
own websites. Some hotels – they go. Children are always The situation for disabled
normally smaller, privately welcome at most hotels, with travelers in Brazil has greatly
owned properties – still think only a very few smaller, improved in recent years,
they can charge different prices normally romantic pousadas but not all accommodation
for Brazilian travelers and having any restrictions, which options, especially the smaller
foreign visitors, so it is worth will be clearly stated on their properties with narrow lifts or
checking the rates on the websites or at the time of those in the remoter areas of
Portuguese-language version booking. The vast majority of the country, can offer wheel-
of the website. Prices also vary hotels and pousadas in Brazil chair access or the facilities
due to exchange rates. are child-friendly. Larger that disabled travelers may
In Brazil, the price often properties will have high chairs require. Brazilians by nature,
reflects not only the quality of and possibly cots, and many however, will do everything
accommodation, but also the resorts also have special child- they can to assist, so do not
location. A traveler on a budget friendly areas, playrooms, and hesitate to ask.
needs to decide if the priority is
a beachfront location or a
better-quality hotel a couple of
blocks back from the beach.
There will also be notably
different rates for rooms at the
front of a beachfront property
and those at the side or behind.
Tipping
It is customary and much
appreciated for guests to leave
a tip for the staff who have Children’s playroom, a feature in many Brazilian hotels
quality, and facilities offered.

Some will be very basic but
certainly clean, while others
can be considered world-class
boutique hotels set in lovely
locations. Pousadas are usually
charming, offer good value,
and give a real flavor of Brazil.
It is a good idea to visit
the website of an individual
pousada to see the pictures of
the property and what it has to
The lush gardens of Pousada do Sol, Morro de São Paulo offer. Most good tour operators
know the best pousadas in each
Chain Hotels Apart-Hotels category and area. Roteiros
Brazil’s hotel chains include a Though not strictly for budget de Charme, a network of
number of long-established travelers, apart-hotels, in most outstanding pousadas, is also
Brazilian groups, such as Othon of the main Brazilian cities, offer very useful, as is the Hidden
and Tropical. There are also good value for money. These Pousadas website.
several hundreds of modern come with one, two, or more If staying in Rio de Janeiro,
hotels throughout the country bedrooms, a living area, and check out Cama a Café, an
that operate under different a kitchen. Some will have organization that looks after
international brands, such as the restaurants and cafés, as well many bed-and-breakfast
Accor and Marriott groups. as swimming pools and gyms. options across the city, the
Brazilian hoteliers have not One of the main chains with majority in Santa Teresa. These
been left behind, with the intro- properties throughout Brazil is offer the chance to stay in a
duction of Blue Tree, Bristol, Accor’s Parthenon group, while room in a local resident’s house.
the Atlântica Hotels group in São Paulo, Transamérica Flats
(which operates as Radisson, is a very prominent brand.
Clarion, Quality, Comfort Suites, Apart-hotels are the most Resorts
Four Points, Sleep Inn, and Go convenient self-catering World-class resorts, many
Inn), Transamérica, and in Rio option in Brazil. Most houses all-inclusive, can be found
de Janeiro, Windsor Hoteis. and apartments are rented across Brazil. One of the largest
The majority of chain hotels, individually, and it may be is the Costa do Sauípe, just
which vary greatly in terms of easier to organize the rental north of Salvador, and close
price, infrastructure and quality, through a local agency. by in Praia do Forte, Tivoli
tend to be targeted at Brazilian Ecoresort, Iberostar Praia do
and South American business Forte, and Iberostar Bahia.
travelers unless they are in Pousadas Among the best are
obvious tourist destinations. Outside of the main city and Transamérica on Ilha de
Only the properties in the town centers, the majority of Comandatuba in Bahia, Ponta
tourist areas are likely to accommodations on offer are dos Ganchos in Santa Catarina,
consider adding a Brazilian smaller, privately owned Nannai in Porto de Galinhas,
or tropical flavor to the properties. Pousadas vary and Sofitel Jequitimar in
surroundings or decorations. dramatically in terms of cost, Guarujá, to name but a few.
The Marriott Resort in Costa do Sauípe, Bahia

Budget Options
In the main areas visited
by tourists, there are many
pousadas that can be consid-
ered budget accommodation.
There is also a good and
growing network of modern
and comfortable hostels in
Brazil for those on a really tight
budget. New independent
hostels can be found right across
Brazil, from the tourist areas of
Rio de Janeiro, to the business
heart of São Paulo. The website Camping in the Serra dos Órgãos National Park
of the Federação Brasileira
de Albergues da Juventude If you are not an experienced It is recommended for travelers
has a full list of hostels in camper, you should stick to to consider traveling light,
Brazil that are approved by official campsites, the majority leaving the bulk of their
the organization. of which are run and organized belongings back in the main
by the Camping Clube do hotel, an airport locker, or at the
Brasil. If using one of the city office of the lodge prior to
Motels national parks, check first with making the transfer.
Motels in Brazil have nothing in the park authorities where
common with the ones to be camping is permitted. Having
found in North America or in your own tent, or hiring one, is Recommended Hotels
Europe. In Brazil, these tend to useful in ecotourist regions, such The many different hotels,
be “love hotels,” renting rooms as the Amazon and the Pantanal. resorts, pousadas, and lodges in
out to couples by the hour. this book have been carefully
Guests are not normally encour- selected for their facilities, good
aged to spend more than one Lodges location, and value. A wide
night at these establishments. The majority of wildlife lodges variety of accommodations is
that will help visitors to see and covered, from lodges in remote
enjoy some of the remoter parts rainforest locations, to stylish
Camping of Brazil are located in the boutique hotels in Brazil’s
Brazil offers a massive number Amazon (see p378) and the towns and cities.
of places where it is possible Pantanal (see pp379–80). While Entries labeled as DK Choice
to camp. However, campers there are some outstanding highlight establishments that
should make sure they have exceptions, the facilities and are exceptional or notable in
not wandered on to private home comforts of many of some way – for their stunning
property or into a restricted these lodges may be quite basic, location, outstanding rooms,
area. Security, too, is an issue, since visitors are more keen on superb restaurant, excellent
and not just from miscreants, exploring the surrounding service, or a combination
but also from Brazilian wildlife. countryside, flora, and fauna. of these.
DIRECTORY
Booking Blue Tree Tropical Roteiros de Charme
Tel (0300) 150 5000. Tel (0800) 70 12670. Tel (21) 2287 1592.
Expedia ∑ bluetree.com.br ∑ tropicalhotel.com.br ∑ roteirosdecharme.
∑ expedia.com
Bristol Windsor Hoteis com.br
Last Minute Tel (0800) 645 1816. Tel (11) 3259 5323.
∑ lastminute.com ∑ bristolhoteis.com.br Budget Options
∑ windsorhoteis.com
Marriott Federação Brasileira
Chain Hotels Pousadas
∑ marriott.co.uk de Albergues da
Accor Othon Cama a Café Juventude
Tel (0800) 703 7000. Tel (0800) 725 0505. Tel (21) 2225 4366. ∑ hihostelbrazil.com.br
∑ accor.com.br ∑ othon.com.br ∑ camacafe.com.br
Camping
Atlântica Hotels Transamérica Hidden Pousadas
Tel (0800) 55 5855. Tel (0800) 012 4400. Tel (21) 98122 2000. Camping Clube do
∑ atlanticahotels. ∑ transamericagroup. ∑ hiddenpousadas Brasil
com.br com.br brazil.com ∑ campingclube. com.br
Where to Stay
CENTRO: Novotel Santos Price Guide
Rio de Janeiro City Dumont $$ Prices are based on one night’s stay in
a standard double room, inclusive of
Business Map 5 F4
service charges and taxes.
AIRPORT: Linx $$ Rua Marechal Câmara 300, 20020 080
Business Tel (21) 3506 8500 $ up to $100
Av Vinte de Janeiro s/n, 21941 900 ∑ novotel.com $$ $100 to 250
$$$ over $250
Tel (21) 2468 3400 Modern, well-equipped, no-frills
∑ linxinternationalairportgaleao. Novotel that is well positioned if
com you are working downtown or COPACABANA & LEME:
This is the best choice if you taking domestic flights from Windsor Leme $$
need suitable accommodation Santos Dumont airfield. Boutique Map 3 D4
near the international airport for Av Atlântica 656, 22010 000
connecting flights. CENTRO: Vila Galé Rio de Tel (21) 2195 5400
Janeiro $$ ∑ windsorhoteis.com.br
BARRA DA TIJUCA: Historical Map 5 D5 This is a luxury, stylish, top-of-the-
Royal Tulip São Conrado $$ Rua Riachuelo 124, 20230 014 line hotel on the beachfront, with
Resort Tel (21) 2460 4500 chic rooms. The rooftop pool area
Rua Aquarela do Brasil 75, 22610 170 ∑ vilagale.com/en/rio-de-janeiro has a glorious view over Copaca-
Tel (21) 3323 2200 Located close to Lapa and bana beach. Superb breakfast.
∑ royaltulipriodejaneiro.com downtown Rio, this renovated
Resort property that hosted the Colonial-era mansion has a
England soccer team during the pleasant mix of new and old. The DK Choice
2014 World Cup. Great views. rooms are tasteful and elegant. COPACABANA & LEME:
Pool area is one of the best in Rio. Good base for sightseeing. Copacabana Palace $$$
Historic Map 3 E2
BARRA DA TIJUCA: CENTRO: Windsor Asturias $$ Av Atlântica 1702, 220121 001
Windsor Barra $$$ Business Map 5 E5 Tel (21) 2548 7070
Business Rua Senador Dantas 14, 20031 000 ∑ copacabanapalace.com.br
Av Lucio Costa 2630, 22620 172 Tel (21) 2195 1500 Famous in Rio and around the
Tel (21) 2195 5000 ∑ windsorhoteis.com.br world, with a guest list of
∑ windsorhoteis.com.br This good, standard business celebrities to match, this top-end
Large modern beachfront hotel, housed in a 1930s building, luxury grand beachfront hotel
property that is popular for is centrally located and close to from Belmond, first opened in
conferences due to its extensive the metro station. There are lovely 1923. It features Rio’s best and
event facilities. Good beach and views from the rooftop terrace. most glamorous hotel pool.
sea views from most rooms.
COPACABANA & LEME:
CENTRO: Manga $ Rio Lancaster $$ COPACABANA & LEME:
Hostel Map 5 D5 Business Map 3 F2 JW Marriott $$$
Rua do Lavradio 186, 20230 070 Av Atlântica 1470, 22021 000 Luxury Map 3 D3
Tel (21) 3852 5742 Tel (21) 2169 8300 Av Atlântica 2600, 22041 001
∑ mangahostelrio.com ∑ hotelriolancaster.com.br Tel (21) 2545 6500
Popular hostel that is situated The front rooms of this Art Deco ∑ marriott.com
close to Rio’s party central in building on Copacabana beach- This boutique hotel is one of Rio’s
Lapa. Well located for sightseeing front have balconies and beautiful best choices for a Copacabana
and the metro for the beach, views. The breakfast buffet beachfront property. The rooftop
Ipanema, and Copacabana. includes a wide variety of fruit. terrace offers amazing views of
Dormitories only. Sugar Loaf Mountain.
COPACABANA & LEME:
Sofitel Rio $$ COPACABANA & LEME:
Luxury Map 3 D5 Porto Bay Rio Internacional $$$
Av Atlântica 4240, 22070 002 Business Map 3 F2
Tel (21) 2525 1232 Av Atlântica 1500, 22021 000
∑ sofitel.com Tel (21) 2546 8000
Located at the Ipanema end of ∑ portobay.com
Copacabana beach. Stunning Beachfront hotel with a great roof
views back along the beach from terrace that has sweeping views
the large pool area. All rooms of Copacabana. The corner rooms
have a balcony. Good facilities. have floor-to-ceiling windows.
COPACABANA & LEME: COPACABANA & LEME: Rio

Windsor Excelsior $$ Othon Palace $$$
Business Map 3 E2 Business Map 3 D3
Av Atlântica 1800, 22021 001 Av Atlântica 3264, 22070 000
Tel (21) 2195 5800 Tel (21) 2196 1500
∑ windsorhoteis.com.br ∑ othon.com.br
This is a solid choice for a beach- Towering, landmark hotel on the
front business hotel near the beachfront. The rooms and
The façade and entrance of the Porto Bay metro station. Rooftop pool. Same facilities are a bit dated, but many
Rio Internacional, Copacabana block as the Copacabana Palace. have spectacular views.
IPANEMA & LEBLON: Praia

Ipanema $$
Business Map 1 C5
Av Vieira Souto 706, 22410 060
Tel (21) 2141 4949
∑ praiaipanema.com
Pleasant hotel with small
rooftop pool, bar, and restaurant.
All the rooms are light and airy
and have tiled floors and a
balcony. Fantastic location on
Ipanema beachfront.
IPANEMA & LEBLON: Sol

Ipanema $$
Business Map 2 A5
Av Vieira Souto 320, 22420 004
Tel (21) 2525 2020
∑ solipanema.com.br
The opulent lobby at the Windsor Atlântica Excellent beachfront location in
the very heart of Ipanema close
COPACABANA & LEME: IPANEMA & LEBLON: to restaurants, bars, and stores.
Windsor Atlântica $$$ Rio Hostel Ipanema $ Small rooftop pool. Book a
Luxury Map 3 F1 Hostel Map 2 C5 seafront room for the view.
Av Atlântica 1020, 22010 000 Rua Canning 18, Casa 1, 22081 040
Tel (21) 2195 7800 Tel (21) 2287 2928 IPANEMA & LEBLON:
∑ windsorhoteis.com.br ∑ riohostelipanema.com Caesar Park $$$
Flagship property from the Conveniently located hostel that Luxury Map 2 A5
Windsor Group. Wonderful views is in walking distance of both Av Vieira Souto 460, 22420 000
and excellent facilities. Many Copacabana and Ipanema Tel (21) 2525 2525
people, including taxi drivers, still beaches. Dorms and suites. The ∑ sofitel.com
know this hotel as Le Méridien. pleasant rooftop terrace has Under Sofitel management, the
hammocks to relax in. stylish Caesar Park has been a
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO: popular choice for business and
Discovery $ IPANEMA & LEBLON: leisure travelers for decades.
Hostel Arpoador Inn $$ Small pool and rooftop terrace.
Benjamin Constant 26, 20241 150 Business Map 2 C5 One of Ipanema’s very best.
Tel (21) 3449 0672 Rua Francisco Otaviano 177,
∑ discoveryhostel.com 22080 040 IPANEMA & LEBLON:
Terrific little hostel located in Tel (21) 2523 0060 Fasano $$$
Glória and just a few steps from ∑ arpoadorinn.com.br Luxury Map 2 B5
the metro station. As well as A little gem that sits at the Av Vieira Souto 80, 22420 000
dorms, it offers private rooms Copacabana end of Ipanema, in Tel (21) 3202 4000
and a studio apartment. Arpoador. Simple but slightly ∑ fasano.com.br
dated rooms. There isn’t a pool, Chic, stylish, world-class luxury
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO: but it’s just a short path between boutique hotel, with lovely sea
El Misti $ the hotel and sand. Book a high- views from all the rooms.
Hostel up oceanfront room. Gorgeous rooftop pool deck. Great
Praia de Botafogo 462, Casa 9, 22250 restaurant and fashionable bar.
040 IPANEMA & LEBLON: Ipanema
Tel (21) 2226 0991 Plaza $$ IPANEMA & LEBLON:
∑ elmistibota.com Business Map 2 B5 Sheraton Rio $$$
Close to Botafogo metro station, Rua Farme de Amoedo 34, Resort
beach, and Sugar Loaf Mountain, 22420 020 Av Niemeyer 121, 22450 220
this excellent hostel has shared Tel (21) 3687 2000 Tel (21) 2529 1122
dorms and private rooms. ∑ ipanemaplaza.com.br ∑ sheraton-rio.com.br
This popular hotel is located one Rio’s largest resort property
block back from the beach in the is located almost on its own
DK Choice heart of Ipanema. Close to many beach just a short hop along
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO: restaurants and bars. Great views the coast from Leblon. A great
Oztel $ from the rooftop terrace. choice for families.
Hostel
Rua Pinheiro Guimarães 91, IPANEMA & LEBLON: SANTA TERESA: Santa
20081 311 Mar Ipanema $$ Teresa $$$
Tel (21) 3042 1853 Business Map 1 C4 Luxury
∑ oztel.com.br Rua Visconde de Pirajá 539, 22410 003 Av Alm Alexandrino 660, 20241 260
Located at the Lagoa end of Tel (21) 3875 9191 Tel (21) 3380 0200
Botafogo, this trendy hostel ∑ maripanema.com.br ∑ santateresahotel.com
borders on being a hotel, with Located on the main shopping This boutique hotel is tucked
suites as well as dorms, a street and just two blocks from away in bohemian Santa Teresa.
lounge, TV room, and popular the beach. The elegant rooms Far from the beach and
bar. Good for public transport. are tastefully decorated. Friendly Copacabana, but an oasis of
and helpful staff. calm. Spacious and stylish room.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 368–9
Rio de Janeiro State

& Espírito Santo
Rio de Janeiro State
ANGRA DOS REIS: Vila Galé
Eco Resort $$$
Resort
Estrada Vereador Benedito Adelino
8413, Fazenda Tanguá, 23909 901
Tel (24) 3379 2800
∑ vilagale.pt
This well-structured, comfortable
resort property is located on its
own beach and is excellent for
families. One of the closest major
resorts to Rio. The sun deck at Vila d’Este, Búzios, offering beautiful views of sea and sky
BÚZIOS: Abracadabra $$$ ILHA GRANDE: Ancoradouro $$ PARATY: Casa Turquesa $$$
Pousada Pousada Pousada
Alto do Humaitá 13, 28950 000 Rua da Praia 121 A1, Abraão, Rua Doutor Pereira 50, 23970 000
Tel (22) 2623 1217 23960 000 Tel (24) 3371 1037
∑ abracadabrapousada.com.br Tel (24) 3361 5153 ∑ casaturquesa.com.br
Just 5 minutes from the center of ∑ pousadancoradouro.com.br Stylish and romantic pousada.
the action in Rua das Pedras, this Cute pousada, typical of those to Understated class in the historic
small, well-appointed pousada be found in and around the main center, and a perfect base from
has lovely views over Búzios. town of Ilha Grande, offers which to explore the town.
spacious and clean rooms.
BÚZIOS: Casas Brancas PARATY: Literária $$$
Boutique Hotel & Spa $$$ ILHA GRANDE: Naturalia $$ Pousada
Boutique Pousada Rua Ten Francisco Antônio 362,
Rua Alto do Humaitá 10, 28950 000 Rua da Praia 149, 23960 000 23970 000
Tel (21) 2623 1458 Tel (24) 3361 9583 Tel (24) 3371 1460
∑ casasbrancas.com.br ∑ pousadanaturalia.net ∑ pousadaliteraria.com.br
Charming hotel that is slightly A short walk from where the This pousada has a literary theme,
larger than the pousadas but has boats dock and from the center reflecting the fact that the town
the extra facilities you might of town, this comfortable holds South America’s leading
expect from a hotel. The rooms pousada is well positioned for literary festival. The rooms are
have been individually decorated exploring the island. spacious and have tasteful decor.
and some have a balcony.
PETRÓPOLIS: Grande Hotel $$
DK Choice Historic
DK Choice ILHA GRANDE: Estrela Rua do Imperador 545, 25620 130
BÚZIOS: Insolito Boutique da Ilha $$$ Tel (24) 2244 6500
Hotel $$$ Boutique ∑ grandehotelpetropolis.com.br
Boutique Praia Pequena, Freguesia de Perfect location for sightseeing.
Rua E1, Lotes 3 and 4, Praia da Santana Lagoa Azul, 23900 970 This place balances the modern
Ferradura, 28950 000 Tel (24) 9 9831 0020 with the historic.
Tel (22) 2623 2172 ∑ estreladailha.com
∑ insolitos.com.br Tucked away on its own beach, PETRÓPOLIS: Solar do Império $$
Beautiful location on the edge away from the main action and Historic
of Praia da Ferradura, one of the surrounded by rainforest, this is a Av Koeller 376, 25685 060
region’s very best beaches. This special, relaxing little lodge from Tel (24) 2103 3000
French-owned hotel is stylish, which to explore the beauty of ∑ solardoimperio.com.br
cool and fashionable, as well as Ilha Grande. Comfortable and Small classic hotel that is set in
comfortable and relaxing. It has stylish, yet also rustic with an eco- two large houses that date from
individually styled suites, a friendly infrastructure. All rooms 1875 and 1983. Well positioned
wellness center, lovely pool have a private balcony with a for sightseeing.
areas, and a good restaurant. hammock. Excellent food. Hotel
will transfer you from mainland.
Espírito Santo
BÚZIOS: Vila d’Este $$$ VITORIA: Golden Tulip Porto
Pousada PARATY: Sandi $$ Vitoria $
Alto do Humaitá 11, 28950 000 Pousada Business
Tel (22) 2623 1546 Largo do Rosário 1, 23970 000 Av Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes
∑ viladeste.eco.br Tel (24) 3371 2100; (11) 2503 0195 635, 29050 335
A cross between a pousada and ∑ pousadadosandi.com.br Tel (27) 3533 1300
boutique hotel, within walking Set in Paraty’s historic center, the ∑ goldentulipportovitoria.com
distance of town, this spot has a Sandi is full of character, which This modern, well-appointed
good restaurant and a pool deck. captures the spirit of the town. hotel with good facilities enjoys a
Great views and sunsets. Comfortable rooms. central location. Good value.
Key to Price Guide see page 370
VITORIA: Ilha do Boi $$ OURO PRETO: Mondego $$

Business Pousada São Paulo City
Rua Bráulio Macedo 417, 29052 640 Largo de Coimbra 38, 35400 000
Tel (27) 3345 0111 Tel (31) 3551 7700 AIRPORT GUARULHOS:
∑ hotelilhadoboi.com.br ∑ mondego.com.br Pullman São Paulo $
Part of Brazil’s national hotel and This comfortable pousada, set in Business
catering school. Lovely setting a colonial building, is located Rodovia Hélio Smidt s/n, 07190 100
with great views on Ilha do Boi, close to the main square. Perfect Tel (11) 2124 5800
one of Vitoria’s nicest neighbor- base for exploring Ouro Preto. ∑ pullmanhotels.com
hoods. Lovely pool area. Pleasant bar and restaurant. Close to the airport, this is a good
option if you have flight connec-
tions to make. The shuttle takes
DK Choice 10 minutes to reach the terminals.
Minas Gerais OURO PRETO: Solar do
Rosário $$ JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA:
BELO HORIZONTE: Holiday Inn Pousada Viva Hostel Design $
Belo Horizonte $$ Rua Getúlio Vagas 270, 35400 000 Hostel
Business Tel (31) 3551 5200 Rua Girassol 1262, 05433 002
Rua Professor Moraes 600, 30150 370 ∑ hotelsolardorosario.com.br Tel (11) 3812 9142
Tel (31) 3064 6555 This small hotel has traditional ∑ vivahostel.com.br
∑ ihg.com charm, yet with the modern This colorful, popular, well-
This convenient and modern touches that today’s travelers located hostel has clean, modern,
Holiday Inn offers all you would demand. Lovely gardens spacious rooms or small dorms.
expect from the chain. and pool and an excellent
restaurant. Handy for the JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA:
BELO HORIZONTE: Ouro historic center and sightseeing Porto Bay L’Hotel $$
Minas Palace $$ around Ouro Preto on foot. Business Map 4 F3
Business Alameda Campinas 266, Jardim
Av Cristiano Machado 4001, 31160 342 Paulista, 01426 000
Tel (31) 3429 4001 PARQUE NACIONAL DA SERRA Tel (11) 2183 0500
∑ ourominas.com.br DO CIPÓ: Cipó Veraneio $$ ∑ portobay.com
Considered by many to be the Pousada A popular, small, friendly hotel
top business hotel in Belo, this is Rodovia MG-010, Km 94, 38830 000 that is well-located for Avenida
a fashionable place for events Tel (31) 3718 7000 Paulista. It offers European-style
and conferences. ∑ cipoveraneiohotel.com.br elegance and service.
Pleasant hotel with a lovely
OURO PRETO: Grande Hotel garden and pool on the edge of JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA:
Ouro Preto $ the River Cipo. Simple rooms. Emiliano $$$
Pousada Luxury Map 4 D3
Rua Senador Rocha Lagoa 164, TIRADENTES: Pequena Rua Oscar Freire 384, 01426 000
35400 000 Tiradentes $$ Tel (11) 3069 4369
Tel (31) 3551 1488 Historical ∑ emiliano.com.br
∑ grandehotelouropreto.com.br Av Governador Israel Pinheiro 670, Stylish boutique hotel that is
Historic, small hotel designed by 36325 000 considered one of the city’s best.
Oscar Niemeyer in 1938, with Tel (32) 3355 1262 It is well located for both
gardens created by Burle Marx. ∑ pequenatiradentes.com.br business and leisure.
The panoramic restaurant offers Small hotel inspired by the history
views over Ouro Preto, as do and architecture of old Tiradentes.
many of the rooms. The rooms look like typical DK Choice
houses, and the corridors are JARDINS & AVENIDA
like streets, with plants and PAULISTA: Fasano $$$
streetlights. A fun spot for families. Luxury Map 4 D3
Rua Vittorio Fasano 88, 01414 020
TIRADENTES: Solar da Ponte $$ Tel (11) 3896 4000
Pousada ∑ fasano.com.br
Praça das Mercês 1, 36325 000 Exclusive style, charm, and five-
Tel (32) 3355 1255 star comfort. Fasano São Paulo
∑ solardaponte.com.br boasts the Fasano Italian
Old-style hospitality and modern restaurant and the bar Baretto,
comforts are found at this well- both considered among the
maintained pousada in the heart best in their class. Pool and spa.
of Tiradentes, set up in 1974 by a
British artist and his Minas wife.
JARDINS & AVENIDA PAULISTA:
TIRADENTES: Três Portas $$ Unique $$$
Pousada Luxury Map 4 E5
Rua Direita 280A, 36325 000 Av Brigadeiro Luís Antônio 4700,
Tel (32) 3355 1444 01402 002
∑ pousadatresportas.com.br Tel (11) 3055 4710
Delightful and rustic pousada ∑ hotelunique.com.br
ideally located close to the city’s This trendy boutique hotel has a
The pool at Belo Horizonte’s top business main square. The rooms are cozy beautiful pool area and superb
hotel, Ouro Minas Palace and comfortable. restaurant. Stunning city views.
UBATUBA: Picinguaba $$
Pousada
Rua G 130, Vila Picinguaba, 11680 000
Tel (11) 2495 1586
∑ picinguaba.com
A charming pousada in an excep-
tional coastal setting. It is an oasis
of understated style and comfort
and within easy reach of Paraty.
Bahia
COSTA DA SAUIPE: Costa do
Sauipe Golf & Spa $$$
Resort
Rodovia BA 099, Km 76, s/n,
The upstairs lounge area with views of the city at the Grand Hyatt, São Paulo City 48282 970
Tel (71) 2104 7020
MORUMBI & BROOKLIN: ∑ costadosauipe.com.br
Grand Hyatt $$ DK Choice Massive resort with several
Luxury ILHABELA: DPNY Beach properties that used to be
Av das Nações Unidas 13301, Hotel $$$ managed by the Costa da Sauípe
04578 000 Boutique chain. Accommodations range
Tel (11) 2838 1234 Av José Pacheco do Nascimento from luxury to simple pousadas.
∑ saopaulo.grand.hyatt.com.br 7668, 11630 000
Top of the line and elegant, the Tel (12) 3894 3000 ILHEUS: Transamérica Ilha de
Grand Hyatt Hotel has stylish and ∑ dpnybeach.com.br Comandatuba $$$
spacious rooms. Great facilities One of Brazil’s trendiest and Resort
include a highly rated spa and a most fashionable beach Estrada P/Canavieiras, Km 77, Una,
gourmet center. properties, DPNY is weekend 45690 000
party central for some of São Tel (73) 3686 1122
MORUMBI & BROOKLIN: Paulo’s most demanding jet- ∑ transamerica.com.br
Hilton Morumbi $$$ setters looking to relax in style. Since opening in 1989, this place
Business Three charming restaurants, has been regarded as one of
Av das Nações Unidas 12901, great beach and pool setting, Brazil’s best and most consistent
04578 000 and popular spa. Day passport resort properties. Located one
Tel (11) 2845 0000 offered if you are not staying at hour from Ilheus on Ilha de
∑ hiltonmorumbi.com.br the hotel or are arriving by boat. Comandatuba. Great for families.
Large Hilton that is in demand Excellent golf course.
for conferences and events. It’s
handy for the business district of ILHABELA: Maison Joly $$$ ITACARÉ: Itacaré Eco Resort $$$
Brooklyn and Morumbi. Rooms Pousada Resort
have mountain or sea views. Rua Antônio Lisboa Alves 278, Rodovia Ilhéus, Km 65, Condomínio
11630 000 Vila São José, 45530 000
Tel (12) 3896 2364 Tel (73) 3251 3133
∑ maisonjoly.com.br ∑ ier.com.br
São Paulo State Charming pousada situated This eco-resort is located in an
close to the historic center of old coffee plantation. You can
GUARUJÁ: Casa Grande Hotel the island’s main town. It offers stay in the main hotel or chalets
Resort & Spa $$$ amazing ocean views from in the rainforest. Lovely beach.
Resort public areas and rooms.
Av Miguel Stefano 1100, 11440 530 ITACARÉ: Txai $$$
Tel (13) 3389 4000 MARESIAS: Maresias Beach $$ Boutique
∑ casagrandehotel.com.br Pousada BA-001, Itacaré, 45530 000
Comfortable, colonial-style resort Rua Francisco Loup 1109, Tel (73) 2101 5000
directly on one of the beaches 11620 000 ∑ txairesorts.com.br
closest to São Paulo. There are Tel (12) 3891 7500 One of Brazil’s most fashionable
five restaurants and four bars. ∑ maresiasbeachhotel.com.br and in-demand boutique hotels
Wonderful for children. Great beach location, pool, and offers bungalow accommodations.
grounds make up for the average Understated luxury and wonderful
GUARUJÁ: Sofitel Jequitimar standard of the rooms at this setting. Good spa and restaurant.
Guarujá $$$ pousada. Good for families.
Resort LENÇOIS: Canto das Aguas $$
Av Marjori da Silva Prado 1100, SANTOS: Mendes Plaza $$ Pousada
11444 000 Business Av Senhor dos Passos 01, 46960 000
Tel (13) 2104 2000 Av Floriano Peixoto 42, 11060 300 Tel (75) 3334 1154
∑ accorhotels.com Tel (13) 3208 6400 ∑ lencois.com.br
In a lovely spot, this exceptional ∑ mendeshoteis.com.br The best hotel in Lençois from
Sofitel is also a well-regarded spa, This friendly hotel is conveniently which to explore the town and
resort, and convention center. located for the beach and some national park offers lovely grounds
Outstanding restaurant. of the city’s shopping malls. and views and a superb restaurant.
MORRO DE SÃO PAULO: SALVADOR: Sheraton da TRANCOSO: Villas de

Vila dos Orixas $$ Bahia $$ Trancoso $$$
Boutique Business Pousada
Praia do Encanto s/n, 45428 000 Av 7 de Setembro 1537, 40080 001 Trancoso, 45818 000
Tel (75) 3652 2055 Tel (71) 3021 6700 Tel (73) 3668 1151
∑ hotelviladosorixas.com ∑ sheratondabahia.com ∑ villasdetrancoso.com
Intimate haven on a quiet beach. Located close to Castro Alves Luxury beachfront boutique hotel
This is one of the most stylish square and theater, this property in a lovely setting, great for a
options on Morro de São Paulo. has been fully refurbished and romantic hideaway or for families.
Pretty rooms and bungalows. offers minimalist rooms with This is one of the best for a special
warm decor. Good breakfast. Brazilian and Bahian experience.
PRAIA DO FORTE: Iberostar
Bahia & Praia do Forte $$$ SALVADOR: Solar dos
Resort Deuses – Suítes de Charme $$
Rodovia BA 099, Km 56, Praia do Boutique Sergipe, Alagoas &
Forte, 48280 000 Largo do Cruzeiro do São Francisco Pernambuco
Tel (71) 3676 4300 12, 40020 280
∑ iberostar.com.br Tel (71) 3322 1911 Sergipe
Two neighboring resort ∑ solardosdeuses.com.br
properties have over 1,000 rooms Enchanting hotel located in the ARACAJU: Radisson Aracaju $$
between them and the necessary historic heart of Salvador in a Business
infrastructure to handle that 17th-century building. There are Rua Dr. Bezerra De Menezes, Atalia
number of guests. Great choice just six individually themed suites 40, 49035 240
for families. Closed Jun 7–Jul 1. based on the Candomblé gods. Tel (79) 3711 3300
Closed in June. ∑ atlanticahotels.com.br
PRAIA DO FORTE: Tivoli Modern, comfortable Radisson
Ecoresort $$$ SALVADOR: Zank by Toque $$ off Atalaia beach. Close to
Resort Boutique beachfront, bars, and restaurants.
Av do Farol, 48280 000 Rua Almirante Barroso 161, 41950 350
Tel (71) 3676 4000 Tel (71) 3083 4000
∑ tivolihotels.com ∑ zankhotel.com.br Alagoas
Family-friendly eco-resort in a This stylish and good-value MACEIÓ: Jatiúca $$
pleasant setting. The spacious hotel is located out of the city Resort
rooms all have a balcony with sea center in Rio Vermelho, close Dr. Mario Nunes Vieira 220,
views. Lovely restaurants. to Farol da Barra. Sea views Mangabeiras, 57035 553
from all rooms. Tel (82) 2122 2000
SALVADOR: F Design Hostel $ ∑ hoteljatiuca.com.br
Hostel SALVADOR: Villa Bahia $$$ This urban resort property is well
Travessa Prudente de Moraes 65, Historical located in front of Jatiúca Beach
41950 030 Largo do Cruzeiro do São Francisco and is good for families.
Tel (71) 3035 9700 16, 40020 280
∑ fdesignsalvador.com.br Tel (71) 3322 4271 MACEIÓ: Radisson Maceió $$$
Top-end design hostel, with clean, ∑ lavillabahia.com Business
wacky rooms. The facilities include Set in the Pelourinho area in Av Doutor Antônio Gouveia 925,
a small pool, restaurant, and bar. two magnificent colonial 57030 17
Private rooms and small dorms. mansions, the rooms here have Tel (82) 3202 4900
been renovated but preserve ∑ atlanticahotels.com.br
SALVADOR: Casa Amarelindo $$ their original character. Two Great location, close to the town’s
Historical garden courtyards and a best urban beach and other
Rua das Portas do Carmo 6, 40026 290 panoramic terrace. attractions. Good-sized rooms.
Tel (71) 3266 8550
∑ casadoamarelindo.com TRANCOSO: Etnia Pousada $$
Attractive and popular pousada Pousada
in a 19th-century house in the Trancoso, 45818 000
historic Pelourinho area. There is Tel (73) 3668 1137
a pool, a restaurant, two bars, and ∑ etniabrasil.com.br
a roof terrace with lovely views. This stylish and fashionable
pousada offers eight themed
bungalows tucked away in the
DK Choice greenery. Closed in June.
SALVADOR: Convento do
Carmo $$ TRANCOSO:
Historic Uxua Casa Hotel $$$
Rua do Carmo 1, 40301 330 Boutique
Tel (71) 3327 8400 Trancoso
∑ pestana.com Tel (73) 3668 2277
Small hotel set in an old convent ∑ uxua.com
building dating from 1586 that Located in a tropical garden off
is located in the historic heart of the main square, this has become
the city. It is elegant and refined one of the places to see and be
and has a lovely pool area and seen in Trancoso. The ten rustic-
courtyard. Good service. style houses include four Tasty breakfast options at Solar dos
fishermen’s cottages. Deuses – Suites de Charme, Salvador
RECIFE: Atlante Plaza $$

Pernambuco Business
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Av Boa Viagem 5426, Boa Viagem,
Vale $$ 51030 000
Pousada Tel (81) 3302 3333
Rua Pescador Sérgio Lino 18, 53990 000 ∑ atlanteplaza.com.br
Tel (81) 3619 1293 One of the most popular high-rise
∑ pousadadovale.com beach properties on Boa Viagem,
Comfortable pousada located in this has comfortable, large rooms
Jardim Elizabeth and one of the and lovely views. Rooftop pool.
nicest on the island. A short walk
to the sea, bars, and restaurants. RECIFE: Beach Class Suites $$
Business
Av Boa Viagem 1906, Boa Viagem,
DK Choice 51111 000
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Tel (81) 2121 2626
Maravilha $$$ ∑ beachclasssuites.com
Pousada Another excellent beachfront
BR-363 s/n, Vila do Vai quem option centrally located on Boa
Sabe, 53990 000 Viagem. All rooms have sea
Tel (81) 3325 5302 views. Good amenities.
∑ pousadamaravilha.com.br A king-size bed in one of the bungalows at
One of the more luxurious Solar dos Ventos, Fernando de Noronha RECIFE: Courtyard Recife
pousadas on the island. The Boa Viagem $$
rooms have spectacular sea OLINDA: Sete Colinas $$ Business
views, and there is a gorgeous Historical Av Eng Domingos Ferreira 4661,
pool area and a spa. Choose Rua São Francisco 307, 53120 080 51021 040
between romantic bungalows Tel (81) 3493 7766 Tel (81) 3256 7700
or more family-friendly rooms. ∑ hotel7colinas.com.br ∑ marriott.com
Tours of the island, by land and Small hotel, with larger grounds Modern hotel in the Marriott
sea, are organized, plus diving and more facilities than the chain. It has well-equipped
and fishing. Lovely restaurant. pousadas. There are beautiful rooms and is near the beach.
gardens with tropical vegetation
and a pool. Simple and tranquil.
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Good choice for families.
Solar dos Ventos $$$ Paraíba, Rio Grande
Pousada PORTO DE GALINHAS:
Rod BR-363, Vila Do Sueste, 53990 000 Armação $$ do Norte & Ceará
Tel (81) 3619 1347 Resort
∑ pousadasolardosventos.com.br Lot. Merepe II, Quadra G1, Lote 1A, Paraíba
This place has a stunning setting 55590 000
and is a perfect base for explor- Tel (81) 2126 2160 JOÃO PESSOA: Verdegreen $$
ing the island. Rooms are set in ∑ hotelarmacao.com.br Business
bungalows and have their own This unpretentious, good-value Av João Maurício, Manaíra 255,
verandas with astonishing views. property is on one of the best 58038 000
Close to the beach. No pool. stretches of beach in Brazil. It Tel (83) 3044 0000
offers simple, tasteful rooms and ∑ verdegreen.com.br
a beachfront pool area. Easy Not a great deal of accommo-
DK Choice access to village. dation options in João Pessoa, but
OLINDA: Amparo $$ this beachfront hotel will tick most
Pousada PORTO DE GALINHAS: boxes. Clean, modern rooms.
Rua do Amparo 199, 53020 190 Tabajuba $$
Tel (81) 3439 1749 Pousada
∑ pousadadoamparo.com.br Lot. Merepe II, Quadra I, Lotes 5/6, Rio Grande do Norte
The best known of the pousadas 55590 000 NATAL: Manary Praia Hotel $$
located in the historic center of Tel (81) 3552 1651 Boutique
Olinda. Charming and quirky, ∑ tabajuba.com Rua Francisco Gurgel 9067, 59090 050
with a great colonial atmosphere, A gorgeous, beachfront pousada, Tel (84) 3204 2900
Amparo is a good base for visit- this charming and intimate place ∑ manary.com.br
ing and exploring both Olinda is within walking distance of the Gorgeous and charming hotel on
and Recife. Good restaurant. village. Good restaurants. No Ponte Negra that has consistently
children under 12 allowed. delivered high standards and
comfort. Wonderful restaurant.
OLINDA: Quatro Cantos $$ PORTO DE GALINHAS:
Pousada Nannai Beach $$$ NATAL: Serhs Natal Grand $$
Rua Prudente de Moraes Carmo 441, Resort Resort
53020 140 Praia de Muro Alto, 55590 000 Av Senador Dinarte Medeiros Mariz
Tel (81) 3429 0220 Tel (81) 3552 0101 6045, 59090 002
∑ pousada4cantos.com.br ∑ nannai.com.br Tel (84) 4005 2000
A popular and charming pousada Stylishly decorated resort property ∑ serhsnatalgrandhotel.com
in the heart of Olinda. It is set with Polynesian influences. The Large, sophisticated beachfront
on the carnival route in an old bungalows have their own dip resort has good restaurants, a
family home. pools. Good spa. lovely beach, and sea views.
PRAIA DE PIPA: Sombra e FORTALEZA: Gran Marquise $$

Água Fresca $$ Business Piauí & Maranhão
Resort Av Beira Mar 3980, Meirelles, 60165 121
Rua Praia do Amor 1000, 59178 000 Tel (85) 4006 5000
Tel (84) 3246 2376 ∑ granmarquise.com.br Piauí
∑ sombraeaguafresca.com.br Standard beachfront hotel in a BARREIRINHAS: Encantes do
This property is divided into a location that is good for business Nordeste $$
resort, hotel, and spa and is or leisure trips. Good facilities. Try Pousada
165 yards (150 m) from Praia do to book an oceanfront room. Rua Boa Vista s/n, 65590 000
Amor. The decor has an Asian Tel (98) 3349 0288
vibe. Popular with couples. FORTALEZA: Luzeiros $$ ∑ encantesdonordeste.com.br
Boutique Simple pousada located by a river
PRAIA DE PIPA: Toca da Av Beira Mar 2600, 60165 121 outside of the town. Good base
Coruja $$$ Tel (85) 4006 8585 from which to visit the Lençois
Pousada ∑ luzeirosfortaleza.com.br park and dunes. Organized tours
Av Baia dos Golfunhos, 59190 000 Impressive hotel on the beach- and activities.
Tel (84) 3246 2226 front at Meireles Beach. Close to
∑ tocadacoruja.com.br many amenities and attractions. TERESINA: Metropolitan $$
Wonderful garden setting close Most rooms have verandas. Business
to the centre of Pipa. This place Av Frei Serafim 1696, 64001 020
has a perfect mix of rustic charm JERICOACOARA: Recanto do Tel (86) 3216 8000
and understated luxury. Excellent Barão $ ∑ metropolitanhotel.com.br
restaurant. There is a free transfer Pousada Teresina does not have many
to the beach, where the hotel Rua do Forró 433, 62598 000 hotels, but the Metropolitan has
has its own bar/restaurant. Tel (85) 9989 2469 consistently been the best on
∑ recantodobarao.com offer. Centrally located.
TIBAU DO SUL: Ponta do A typical example of the
Madeiro $$ charming pousadas that make up
Pousada the bulk of the accommodation Maranhão
Av Antônio Florêncio 2695, 59178 000 options at Jericoacoara. SÃO LUIS: Pestana São Luis $
Tel (84) 3246 4220 Business
∑ pontadomadeiro.com.br Av Avicênia 1, Praia do Calhau, 65071
Breathtaking ocean views from DK Choice 370
this pousada’s clifftop location. JERICOACOARA: My Blue Tel (98) 2106 0505
Take the staircase (over 200 Hotel $$ ∑ pestana.com
steps) down to the beach, where Boutique Well located for both business
the hotel has its own beach bar Rua Ismael s/n, 62598 000 and leisure, this hotel is a short
and facilities. Transfers to Pipa. Tel (88) 3669 2203 walk to Calhau Beach and a short
∑ mybluehotel.net cab ride to the historic center.
Attractive beachfront property Excellent pool area.
Ceará with two pool areas that has set
CANOA QUEBRADA: Azul the standard for other hotels in SÃO LUIS: Luzeiros $$
Marinho $ Jericoacoara. The colorful Business
Pousada rooms and suites are stylish and Rua João Pereira Damasceno 02,
Rua Leandro Bezerra s/n, 62800 000 sophisticated and have sea, 60077 630
Tel (88) 3421 7003 pool, or garden views. Some Tel (98) 3311 4949
∑ azul-marinho.com also have a terrace. There is a ∑ luzeirossaoluis.com.br
This charming clifftop pousada spa, a gym, a restaurant, and a Modern design hotel on the
is one of the town’s best, with wine bar directly on the beach beachfront at Ponta do Farol.
great ocean and beach views. with panoramic views. Lovely setting. There are sea views
Closed in May. from all the large, airy rooms.
CANOA QUEBRADA: Long

Beach $$
Boutique
Rua Quatro Ventos, 62800 000
Tel (88) 3421 7404
∑ longbeachcanoa.com
Gorgeous, unpretentious hotel
with rustic charm. The pool area
has sea views. It is a short walk to
the beach and 15 minutes to the
town center. Good for families.
FORTALEZA: Ibis Fortaleza $

Business
Rua Doutor Atualpa Barbosa Lima
660, 60060 370
Tel (85) 3052 2450
∑ ibis.com
A short walk from the main beach
area of Iracema, this modern hotel
has a small pool and sun deck. The beautifully kept, tranquil gardens at Toca da Coruja, Praia de Pipa
MANAUS: Amazon Ecopark $$$

Amapá Rainforest Lodge
Pará & Amapá MACAPÁ: Ekinox $ Tel (92) 9146 0594; (21) 3005 5536
Pousada ∑ amazonecopark.com.br
Pará Rua Jovino Dinoá 1693, 68900 075 Pleasant, comfortable lodge in a
BELEM: Crowne Plaza $$ Tel (96) 3223 0086 lovely river setting that is one of
Business ∑ ekinoxpousada.yahoostore.com the closest to Manaus. Rooms
Av Nazaré 375, 66040 145 This friendly, well-located little and bungalows are available.
Tel (91) 3202 2000 pousada is ideal if you want to Meals are included in the price.
∑ crownebelem.com.br avoid staying in the mediocre
Consistently one of Belém’s best, hotels on offer in Macapá. MANAUS: Amazon Jungle
this hotel is close to tourist Palace $$$
attractions, restaurants, bars, and MACAPÁ: Ibis Macapá Hotel $ Rainforest Lodge
the financial district. Great for Business Tel (92) 3211 3955
business or sightseeing, too. Rua Tiradentes Centro 303, 68900 098 ∑ amazonjunglepalace.com.br
Tel (96) 2101 9050 Unusual option since this is a
BELEM: Radisson Maiorana ∑ accorhotels.com modern floating lodge – an easy,
Belem $$ Comfortable, modern, and well- comfortable, slightly sanitized
Business located, this Ibis hotel is simple way to be introduced to the
Av Comandante Bras do Aguir 321, but does the job. rainforest. There are panoramic
66035 395 river views from all the rooms.
Tel (91) 3205 1399
∑ atlanticahotels.com.br MANAUS: Anavilhanas $$$
This Radisson property delivers Amazonas, Roraima, Rainforest Lodge
the standards expected of the Acre & Rondõnia Tel (92) 3622 8996
brand. Centrally situated, with ∑ anavilhanaslodge.com
comfortable and functional Amazonas This family-friendly lodge is one
rooms for business travelers. of the region’s best. Transfer is
MANAUS: Holiday Inn Manaus $ 3 hours by road or by seaplane.
ILHA DE MARAJO: Fazenda Business There is a viewing platform to see
Sanjo $$ Av General Rodrigo Otávio 3775, across the rainforest. Stay in beau-
Fazenda 69077 000 tiful wooden bungalows or chalets.
Margens do Igarapé São Sebastião, Tel (92) 3182 0100
68870 000 ∑ holidayinn.com MANAUS: Dolphin Lodge $$$
Tel (91) 3228 1385 Modern and comfortable Holiday Rainforest Lodge
∑ sanjo.tur.br Inn hotel. Although basic, it offers Tel (92) 3663 0392
There are limited accommodation exactly what many travelers ∑ dolphinlodge.tur.br
options on the island, but this require as a base. This rustic lodge is popular with
lodge is the best base for explor- international tour operators.
ing, since it is located in the heart MANAUS: Caesar Business $$ Located 78 miles (126 km) south-
of the island. Offers one-, two-, Business east of Manaus. Transfer is by van
and three-night stays. Av Darcy Vargas 654, Bairro do and boats, which is an adventure
Chapada, 69050 020 in itself. Rooms are wooden
SANTAREM: Barrudada Tel (92) 3306 4700 buildings with thatched roofs.
Tropical Hotel $ ∑ accorhotels.com
Business Good-quality, attractive business
Av Mendonça Furtado 4120, 68050 040 hotel run by Accor. It is close to DK Choice
Tel (93) 3222 2200 the huge Amazonas Shopping MANAUS: Juma Lodge $$$
∑ barrudadatropicalhotel.com.br Center and convention center Rainforest Lodge
You don’t go to Santarem for the and about a 20-minute taxi ride Tel (92) 3232 2707
hotels. Barrudada is probably the to the downtown waterfront. ∑ jumalodge.com
best one available. A popular lodge for travelers
looking to immerse and
DK Choice integrate themselves in the full
MANAUS: Tropical $$ Amazon experience. Lovely
Historical/Resort rooms on stilts. Tasty food is on
Av Coronel Teixeira 1320, Praia da offer in the restaurant, and
Ponta Negra, 69037 000 there are lots of organized
Tel (92) 2123 5000 activities. Three hours from
∑ tropicalmanaus.com.br Manaus by boat, or 30 minutes
Almost an attraction in its by hydroplane, but the transfer
own right, this place is in a is part of the adventure.
secluded riverside location and
has been the first choice for
visitors for decades. Large, MANAUS: Uakari Lodge $$$
colonial-style eco-resort that Rainforest Lodge
may have seen better days, Tel (97) 3343 4160
with faded elegance, but still ∑ uakarilodge.com.br
an excellent choice for Amazon Well-regarded floating lodge that
light, before heading in to the can handle just 24 guests at any
rainforest proper. On-site zoo one time. Special packages are
The comfort of Amazon Ecopark, perfectly and other attractions. also offered. Set in pristine jungle
located for Manaus surroundings.
Mato Grosso & Mato

Grosso do Sul
Mato Grosso
DK Choice
ALTA FLORESTA: Cristalino
Jungle Lodge $$
Rainforest Lodge
Av Teles Pires 2001, 78580 000
Tel (66) 3521 1396
∑ cristalinolodge.com.br
This highly regarded place is
considered one of the world’s
Windows galore at Cristalino Jungle Lodge, one of the best ecolodges in the world best ecolodges. Located within
a private forest reserve, it has
Roraima BRASÍLIA: Meliá Brasíl 21 $$ 16 stylish and comfortable guest
BOA VISTA: Aipana Plaza $ Business quarters offering every conven-
Business Setor Hoteleiro Sul, Quadra 6 Bloco D, ience. There’s a floating deck, a
Praça Centro Cívico 974, 69301 380 70316 000 restaurant with views, and two
Tel (95) 3212 0800 Tel (61) 3218 4700 165-ft (50-m) observation towers
∑ aipanaplaza.com.br ∑ solmelia.com to look over the canopy of trees.
If you need a place to stay in Boa This towering hotel is close to the Full program of activities.
Vista, you cannot go far wrong TV Tower and National Stadium.
with the Aipana Plaza, in a good Offers a “Women Traveling Alone”
downtown central location. program. Elegant rooms. CUIABÁ: Deville Cuíabá $$
Business
BRASÍLIA: Quality Hotel $$ Av Isaac Póvoas 1000, 78032 015
Acre Business Tel (63) 3319 3000
RIO BRANCO ACRE: Holiday SMAS Trecho 3, Conjunto 2, Bloco A, ∑ deville.com.br
inn Express Rio Branco $ 71215 300 Modern hotel situated in the city
Business Tel (61) 2196 6090 center, close to bars, restaurants,
Rua Rio Grande do Sul 332, 69990 324 ∑ atlanticahotels.com.br and nightlife. Good base for head-
Tel (68) 3302 2300 This popular, modern, low-rise ing in and out of the Pantanal.
∑ hiexpress.com hotel is situated about 15
Rio Branco is another town not minutes from the center. CUIABÁ: Gran Odara Hotel $$
blessed with many hotels. This Business
centrally located Holiday Inn Av Miguel Sutil 8344, Ribeirão da
Express, though, has a rooftop DK Choice Ponte, 78040 400
pool and fitness center. BRASÍLIA: Royal Tulip Tel (65) 3616 2014
Brasília $$ ∑ en.hotelgranodara.com.br/hotel
Business This comfortable, well-run hotel
Rondõnia Setor Hoteleiro Norte, Trecho 01, is ideal when having to stay
PORTO VELHO: Oscar Hotel Conjunto 1B, Bloco C, 70800 200 overnight in Cuiabá before or after
Executive $ Tel (61) 3424 7000 transfers to and from the Pantanal.
Business ∑ royaltulipbrasiliaalvorada.com
Av 7 de Setembo, 934, 78916 100 In a city full of fairly nondescript POCONÉ: Araras Lodge $$
Tel (69) 2182 0600 hotels, the stylish Royal Tulip is Rainforest Lodge
∑ oscarhotelexecutive.com.br more of a resort property that Est Parque Transpantaneira Zona
This hotel is located in the city sits on the edge of Lake Paranoá. Rural, 78175 000
center and is close to restaurants Excellent large pool area. Front Tel (65) 3682 2800
and bars. There’s a small rooftop rooms have lake views. Ten- ∑ araraslodge.com.br
pool and bar with city views. minute taxi ride to the city This ecolodge is particularly
center. Close to the residence popular with birders but offers a
of the Brazilian president. full range of Pantanal activities for
which it is well sited and equip-
Brasília, Goiás & ped. The transfer from Cuiabá
Tocantins takes 2 hours and 30 minutes.
Goiás
Brasília CHAPADA DOS VEADEIRO:
Casa Rosa $ Mato Grosso do Sul
BRASÍLIA: Kubitschek Plaza $$ Pousada BONITO: Zagaia Eco-Resort $$
Business Rua Gumercindo Barbosa 233, Resort
HN Quadra 2, Bloco E, Asa Norte, 73770 000 Rod Bonito–Três Morros, Km 0,
70702 904 Tel (62) 3446 1319 79290 000
Tel (61) 3319 3543 ∑ pousadacasarosa.com.br Tel (0800) 979 4400
∑ kubitschek.com.br Simple pousada with a pleasant ∑ zagaia.com.br
Reliable, centrally situated hotel garden and pool, close to the Close to Bontio, this family-friendly
that is popular for events and entrance to the national park. ecolodge is a good base from
small conferences. Front rooms Accommodation is in the main which to explore the surrounding
have lovely views of the city. house and a number of chalets. area and the crystal-clear waters.
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Quinta
Santa Catarina & das Videiras $$$
Boutique
Paraná Rua Afonso Luiz Borba 113,
Santa Catarina 88062 070
Tel (48) 3232 3005
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Blue Tree ∑ quintadasvideiras.com.br
Towers Florianópolis $$ This stylish hotel appears to be a
Business colonial mansion but is in fact a
Rua Bocaiuva 2304, 88015 530 new-build with historic touches.
Tel (48) 3251 5555 Located on Lagoa da Conceição,
∑ bluetree.com.br close to bars and restaurants.
Modern, centrally situated hotel
close to restaurants, bars, and a
shopping center. It is better for Paraná
business than leisure, as it is away CURITIBA: Four Points by
from the island’s main beaches. Sheraton $$
Business
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Quinta do Av Sete de Setembro 4211, 80250 210
Bucanero $$ Tel (41) 3340 4000
The lush greenery of the grounds at Resort ∑ starwoodhotels.com
Meia Lua, which also has a pool for guests Estrada Geral do Rosa s/n, 88780 000 Good standard Four Point hotel
Tel (48) 3355 6056 that is located in the Batel
CAMPO GRANDE: Grand ∑ bucanero.com.br residential area, close to
Park Hotel $$ Charming, romantic pousada in a restaurants, bars, malls, and the
Business glorious setting overlooking Praia historic center. There is a floor
Av Afonso Pena 5282, 79040 010 do Rosa; it is an oasis of calm exclusively for women.
Tel (67) 3044 4444 at the end of a dirt track. About
∑ grandparkhotel.com.br 53 miles (85 km) south of Florian- CURITIBA: Mercure Curitiba
Modern, centrally located hotel ópolis. No children under 14. Golden $$
close to bars and restaurants and Business
in front of the city’s main FLORIANÓPOLIS: Vila Rua Desembargador Motta 2044,
shopping center. Good choice if Tamarindo $$ 80420 190
staying overnight before or after Business Tel (41) 3322 7666
a visit to a Pantanal lodge. Av Campeche 1836, 88063 300 ∑ mercure.com
Tel (48) 3237 3464 This well-located hotel in the Batel
CAMPO GRANDE: Jandaia $$ ∑ tamarindo.com.br area offers all the facilities you
Business Popular pousada on Praia do expect from the Mercure group.
Rua Barão do Rio Branco 1271, Campeche and a 10-minute stroll
79002 174 from the activities at Riozinho. CURITIBA: Slaviero Conceptual
Tel (67) 3316 7700 Lovely setting and grounds. Full Jazz Hotel $$
∑ jandaia.com.br Business
Slightly dated, this is still a good FLORIANÓPOLIS: Costão do Rua Silveira Peixoto 1297, 80240 120
hotel option for overnight stays Santinho Resort & Spa $$$ Tel (41) 3312 7000
before or after visiting the Resort ∑ slavierohoteis.com.br
Pantanal. It is also conveniently Rodovia Vereador Onildo Lemos With jazz as its theme, this
located for the airport. 2505, 88058 700 Slaviero property makes a
Tel (48) 3261 1000 welcome change from the town’s
MIRANDA: Meia Lua $ ∑ costao.com.br more standard business hotels.
Rainforest Lodge Large resort that is popular for Large rooms with city views. Live
BR 262, Km 547, Zona Rural, conventions and events. Lovely jazz twice a week in the bar.
79380 000 beach setting. Rooms can be
Tel (67) 9686 9064 pot luck; some are more modern FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Che Largato $
∑ pantanalranchmeialua.com than others. There is a golf course. Hostel
This ranch a few miles outside of Av Juscelino Kubitschek 874,
Miranda makes a simple, unfussy 85851 210
base from which to explore parts DK Choice Tel (45) 3027 8300
of the Pantanal. Organized FLORIANÓPOLIS: Ponta ∑ chelagarto.com
activities. Lovely grounds. dos Ganchos $$$ Centrally located in Foz and close
Resort to public transport, this popular
MIRANDA: Refúgio Ecológico Rua Eupídeo Alves do Nascimento hostel offers dorms or private
Caiman $$$ 104 ,88190 000 rooms. Nice roof terrace and bar.
Rainforest Lodge Tel (48) 3262 5000
Estância Caiman s/n, ∑ pontadosganchos.com.br FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Nadai
Zona Rural, 79380 000 This stylish, romantic boutique Confort $
Tel (67) 3242 1450 resort is one of the best in Brazil, Business
∑ caiman.com.br and truly world-class. Stunning Av República Argentina 1332,
One of the best-equipped beachfront setting on a head- 85852 090
Pantanal lodges, in the heart of the land north of Florianópolis, Tel (45) 3521 5050
region, this comprises two com- with breathtaking views. Stay in ∑ nadaiconforthotel.com.br
fortable pousadas and private villas deluxe bungalows. No children Popular option in the center
and is still a working farm. Rates under 18. Book well in advance. of Foz for visitors on a budget. It
include guided tours and transfers. is pleasant and comfortable.
FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Bourbon BENTO GONÇALVES: Villa PORTO ALEGRE: Solar 63 $

Resort $$$ Valduga $$$ Hostel
Resort Pousada Rua Octávio Corrêa 63, 90050 120
Rodovia das Cataratas, Km 2, Linha Leopoldina, Vale dos Vinhedos, Tel (51) 3092 0063
85853 000 95700 000 ∑ solar63hostel.com.br
Tel (45) 3521 3900 Tel (54) 2105 3154 Clean and friendly hostel close
∑ bourbon.com.br ∑ villavalduga.com.br to the historic center, bars, and
This large, self-contained resort Four charming, modern pousadas restaurants. It has four small
is frequented by both Brazilian are offered at the Villa Valduga dorms and one double room.
and foreign visitors. Located winery, close to Bento Gonçalves.
between the town and the falls Breakfast and a wine course and PORTO ALEGRE: Laghetto
and good for families. tasting are included. No children Viverone Moinhos $$
under 15. Business
Rua Doutor Vale 579, 90560 010
DK Choice CANELA: Cravo & Canela $$ Tel (51) 2102 7272
FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Hotel das Pousada ∑ hotellaghettomoinhos.com.br
Cataratas Belmond $$$ Rua Ten Manoel Correa 144, 95680 000 The reception here is in a
Historical / Resort Tel (54) 3282 1120 restored historic building at the
Iguaçu National Park, 85863 000 ∑ pousadacravoecanela.com.br front of the modern hotel. It is
Tel (45) 2102 7000 Delightful little pousada that is centrally located and close to
∑ hoteldascataratas.com ideal for exploring Canela. The restaurants and bars.
This grand hotel is the place to rooms and grounds are lovely,
stay when visiting the falls, as it and it is close to the town center PORTO ALEGRE: Sheraton
is the only property located in in a quiet residential road. Porto Alegre $$
the park itself. Standards are Business
everything you would expect GRAMADO: Saint Andrews $$$ Rua Olavo Barreto Viana 18,
from Belmond: lovely rooms, Boutique 90570 070
pool area, and so on. The park Rua das Flores 171, 95670 000 Tel (51) 2121 6000
closes at night, so early in the Tel (54) 3295 7700 ∑ sheraton-poa.com.br
morning and during the night, ∑ saintandrews.com.br Smart hotel in a central location,
guests have the Brazilian side of Elegant, well-kept intimate hotel, and next to the elegant Moinhos
the falls to themselves, which is with lovely mountain views. The Shopping Mall. It has spacious
worth paying a price for. restaurant is excellent and the rooms and offers everything you
service impeccable. would expect of a Sheraton.
MORRETES: Santuário GRAMADO: St Hubertus $$$ SÃO MIGUEL DAS MISSÕES:

Nhundiaquara $$ Boutique Missões $
Lodge Rua da Carrieri 974, 95670 000 Pousada
Est das Prainhas, Km 02, Tel (54) 3286 1273 Rua São Nicolau 601, 98865 000
Porto de Cima, 83350 000 ∑ sthubertus.com Tel (55) 3381 1202
Tel (41) 9972 5543 Welcoming, romantic hotel ∑ pousadadasmissoes.com.br
∑ nhundiaquara.com.br overlooking Lago Negro, 1 mile Simple, well-located property
This is a good base when (2 km) from the city center. with private rooms and dorms,
exploring Morretes and the Serra Lovely grounds. It is a good base near the Jesuit ruins. It is a good
do Mar. Rustic charm at a for exploring Gramado and the choice when visiting the missions.
reasonable price. surrounding countryside. Lovely grounds and pool.
PARANAGUÁ: San Rafael $$

Business
Rua Julia da Costa 185, 83203 060
Tel (41) 3721 9000
∑ sanrafaelhotel.com.br
There is not a lot of choice if you
need to stay in Paranaguá, but
San Rafael is well located and
comfortable, if unremarkable.
Rio Grande do Sul

BENTO GONÇALVES: Don
Giovanni $$
Pousada
Linha Amadeu 28, Km 12, 95700 000
Tel (54) 3455 6293
∑ dongiovanni.com.br
This 20th-century Italian-style
farmhouse surrounded by the
Don Giovanni vineyards is 8 miles
(12 km) outside of Bento
Gonçalves. Mix of rustic charm
and contemporary style. A choice of pools at the large Bourbon Resort, popular with foreign tourists and Brazilians
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

As a melting pot of races and influences, are an elaborate, extended family affair,
Brazil has a rich diversity of regional culinary possibly a feijoada (meat and bean stew).
styles (see pp182–3 and pp384–5). Everywhere in Brazil it is easy to get well-
Although the term “haute cuisine” does cooked, filling meals. For light snacks, there
not strictly apply to Brazilian fare, the art of are umpteen lanchonetes, or corner snack
eating well, or arte do comer bem, is known bars. For lunch, a botequim, or simple gastro
to all Brazilians. A light breakfast, a hearty pub, can be fun, while dining at a formal
lunch that can last from noon to 3pm, and rodízio all-you-can-eat barbecue is a must.
a late afternoon snack are followed by an Famous for offering the widest varieties of
even later dinner that may go on beyond cuisine, São Paulo is seen as the best place
midnight. Saturday and Sunday lunches for an authentic culinary experience.
Restaurants & Bars Brazilian meal will be, although Paying & Tipping
In Brazil, restaurants and bars rice and beans will probably The majority of restaurants take
come in every shape and size. make an appearance at some credit cards. By far the most
From the corner botecos (pubs) point. Many of the dishes are widely accepted credit cards are
and beach bars to elegant world- specific to a region. Breakfast can MasterCard and Visa. Amex and
class restaurants, Brazil has it all. be a meal in itself, and in most Diners Club cards are also useful.
There is a good range to suit cases it will be a hearty spread of However, it is recommended to
every budget. Even dining in fruits, cold meats, cheeses, and check first, especially at the more
top-notch restaurants, especially breads. Often this is included in expensive restaurants, where
away from Rio de Janeiro and your hotel room rate, so make you might not have the cash to
São Paulo, offers value for money good use of it. cover the bill. If you do get stuck
in comparison to anywhere in in a “no credit card” situation, do
Europe or North America. remember that you can probably
Most Brazilian restaurants have Dress Code get cash out of the local ATM
a website, so check the photos to The easygoing Brazilian nature machine on your credit card.
get a clearer idea of whether or is also reflected in the dress Technically, restaurants are
not a place is to your taste. code. In corner bars, one can not meant to add a 10 percent
walk in wearing casual attire. In service charge to the bill;
Rio and other coastal areas, it is however, in many places, it will
Local Eating Habits not unusual to see women in be expected as a tip for the staff.
Visitors will recognize that many bikinis at beach bars. Dress codes, If the service charge has not
Brazilian eating habits have been usually more relaxed and tropical been added, the waiter will
influenced by European countries. in the north, tend to become normally let you know. It is ideal
People eat leisurely and more formal in the south. to leave 10 to 12 percent or, if
throughout the day, although A collar and tie for men may the service charge has been
those who want to snatch a quick be the norm only in restaurants included, simply round up the
bite will not be disappointed. in the business quarter of bill to the next suitable number.
Several restaurants are open all cities, or in Brasília, where the Given the average wage of the
through the day, so the lunch politicians and civil servants staff, tips, however small, are
hour is spread over many hours. prefer formal dressing. always welcome.
Brazilians generally eat dinner
late, many of them preferring
to start at 10pm or later. At the
weekend, numerous restaurants
in the bigger cities, such as Rio
de Janeiro and São Paulo, take
orders well after midnight. It is
not unusual to see Brazilians
retreating to the bar if they
have to wait for a table. Most
restaurants take reservations,
and this is often necessary at the
more fashionable restaurants,
especially those in the larger cities.
Due to the many different
culinary styles, it is virtually
impossible to say what a typical Inside the Box 32 bar in Florianópolis
W H E R E TO E AT & D R I N K 383
Food Hygiene Recommended

As most of Brazil is hot and Restaurants
tropical, every Brazilian knows The restaurants featured on
the importance of keeping food the following pages have
fresh and well refrigerated. been carefully selected to give
Food poisoning, even among a cross-section of options in
visitors, is rare. every region: you will find
The majority of restaurants everything from the equivalent
use ice cubes made from filtered of Michelin-starred fine dining
water. However, in small back- and traditional restaurants,
street bars, it is best to avoid ice. to contemporary Brazilian,
international cuisine, and bistro
fare. The entries are divided
Alcohol & Drinks into geographical areas
On the whole, Brazilians are corresponding to the chapters
not great alcohol drinkers. Beer, Drinks kiosk on the beach in Morro de in this guide; the entries are
however, is extremely popular. São Paulo then organized by town.
It is the most popular alcoholic The fine-dining options
beverage, and the majority of by young children eating out include some of the best
Brazilian beer is a refreshingly late with their parents. That is restaurants in Brazil, often in
cold light lager that comes in considered quite normal in Brazil. atmospheric and scenic
bottles (cerveja) or on tap locations. Given the size of Brazil,
(chopp). Also common, and Brazilian cuisine varies dramati-
much stronger, is a wide variety Vegetarians cally from region to region. So a
of drinks containing cachaça, a Vegetarian options are limited in typical Bahian dish will be very
sugar-based spirit. The most Brazil. However, there are a few different to that served in the
notable and well known of these specialized restaurants offering rest of the Northeast or in the
is the caipirinha with fresh lime. vegetarian dishes, ranging from south. The barbecue house is
Though Scotch is regarded as basic to highly innovative. Por probably the only constant.
a status symbol, wine is rapidly quilo restaurants (see below) can The international options serve
growing in popularity, but it is still be a good option, since they mostly global favorites, while
expensive and can add to the bill. offer large salads and a range of bistros generally offer a range
Brazil already produces some vegetable-based dishes. of cuisine alongside Brazilian
excellent table wines, as do fare. All will reflect Brazilian
neighboring Argentina and Chile. influences and ingredients.
Brazilians also like soft drinks, Churrascaria Rodízio/ The DK Choice entries
especially guaraná, which is as Por Quilo highlight exceptional establish-
omnipresent as Coca-Cola. Most There are two styles of eating out ments that offer more than just
bars and restaurants will have in Brazil that can take visitors by excellent food. The majority of
bottled water com (with) and sem surprise. The first is the churra- these are popular with local
(without) gas. scaria rodízio, or large barbecue residents and visitors, so be sure
houses, found throughout the to inquire regarding reservations
country. Here, one fixed price well in advance, or you may face
Smoking covers the starter and main a lengthy wait for a table.
There are strict regulations about course. Go to a churrascaria
smoking in Brazil. Visitors should rodízio when you are really
be aware that smoking inside hungry, as they will keep
enclosed public spaces, including bringing you succulent pieces of
bars and restaurants, is absolutely grilled meat. Many offer a “traffic-
forbidden. It is also not permitted light system” where each diner
in the outside areas of restaurants will have a card. Leave the green
that are partially covered. side up if you want more food;
red, if not – then back to green
for them to start again.
Children The por quilo type are self-
Brazil is a child-friendly country. service restaurants with a buffet
Most restaurants, however of varying degrees of sophisti-
sophisticated or simple, will cation and a variety of dishes.
welcome children. Staff will What you pay for at the check-
normally go out of their way out, as far as the food is
to entertain them. If they don’t concerned, will be based on
have a suitable chair, they will exactly what your plate weighs –
almost certainly try to improvise hence the name por quilo, or Por kilo self-service buffet at the Mangai
something. Do not be shocked “by-the-kilo.” restaurant (see p393)
The Flavors of Brazil

Brazil offers a vast range of regional cuisines. Climate and
geography influence ingredients, from the exotic tropical
fruits and spices in Northern Brazil to Bahian seafood (see
p183) and the heavy meat dishes of the southern states.
Cultural heritage plays a part as well. In Amazônia, the diet is
based on fruits and fish native to the forest and the rivers,
with many dishes adapted from indigenous recipes. Farther
south, settlement by Portuguese and, later, Italian and German
immigrants put a distinctly European stamp on the cooking. Brazilian Coffee
Brazil’s superb beef is at a sirloin), picanha (sirloin), alcatra

churrascaria rodízio (barbecue (top sirloin), and maminha
house). Waiters bring large (sirloin tip). Cupim is the soft
skewers of freshly barbecued floppy hump on a cow’s
beef and other meats, and slice shoulders. This tender beef,
off cuts directly onto the plate. mixed heavily with fat, is an
You can state your preference acquired taste and may not
for mal passado (rare), ao ponto necessarily be liked by all.
(medium), or bem passado
(well done), or you can just
point to the part that looks Fish & Seafood
good. Cuts include filet mignon Brazilians inherited a love of
(tenderloin), fraldinha (bottom fish from their Portuguese
Freshly caught Bonito tuna on sale at a
coastal fish market Papaya Limes Coconuts
Mangoes
Meat Pineapple Bananas
Brazil is a nation that truly

enjoys its meat and the wide
variety of ways in which beef,
chicken, and pork are prepared.
The ability to devour large
quantities of succulent
Brazilian beef is considered a
mark of manliness. The family
barbecue (churrasco) is a
Sunday tradition, but for
visitors the best way to enjoy Part of Brazil’s lush harvest of ripe tropical fruits
Brazilian Dishes & Specialties

Now considered Brazil’s national dish, feijoada was not always
the chic cuisine it is today. The rich black-bean stew traces
its humble origins to the kitchens of the country’s
slave quarters. To make a meal with the leftovers
from their masters’ tables, the slaves improvised
by combining the cast-off bits of meat into a
hearty stew with black beans, flavored with
garlic, onion, and bay leaves. Nowadays, a
full feijoada completa spread is typically
eaten for lunch on Wednesdays and
Saturdays. In addition to the black beans,
the stew contains several kinds of meat,
Black beans including sausage, bacon, and sun-dried
beef. Side dishes include rice, roasted Salgados, such as deep-fried
cassava flour (farofa), sautéed kale, and slices of orange. A batida pastries stuffed with cheese
de limão (cachaça with ice shavings and lime) is served before or meat, are popular
the feijoada. Brazilian snacks.
of Southern Brazil, one finds

small, tart jaboticaba, and
red acerola berries, often
mixed in juices with other
fruits. Farther north are vast
orchards of cashew (caju) – not
the nut, but the large fruit that
grows above. In the Amazon,
there are taperaba, cupuaçu,
and the queen of Amazon
berries, açaí. These are often
puréed with guaraná berry
powder or syrup and can be
mixed with banana for a high-
Table laid out with all the elements that make up a feijoada completa nutrition smoothie.
forebears. Cod, a Portuguese and the Amazon rainforest. WHAT TO DRINK

staple, is sold dried and heavily The Pantanal’s prize fish is
salted in grocery stores, while the dourado, a fish with firm Brazil’s best-known drink is
cod balls (bolinhos de flesh that is delicious when almost certainly the caipirinha,
grilled. Other popular and made with lime, sugar, ice, and
bacalhau) or cod fillets are
cachaça (sugar-cane liquor).
found on many menus. For tasty fish include the pacú
A better choice for quenching
fresher fare, Brazil’s long and pintado. In the Amazon,
thirst, however, are the wide
coastline offers a bounty of the astounding variety of variety of tropical fruit juices.
excellent fish and seafood. freshwater fish includes the Brazil’s most popular soft drink
The colder waters off Santa tambaqui, aruanã, and is the domestically produced
Catarina offer the country’s tucanaré. They guaraná. This fizzy drink is
best oysters. Ilhabela, off São are often served prepared with wild guaraná
Paulo’s green coast, is grilled, or in soups berries from Amazônia. Also
known for its cold- with local herbs. enormously popular is chopp, or
water jumbo shrimp Another Amazon draft beer, served ice-cold after a
(camarão). Farther freshwater favorite hot day on the beach. Chá mate,
north are mollusks, is caldo de piranha herbal tea, is usually consumed
squid, octopus, crab, (piranha broth). hot in Southern Brazil, but in the
lobster, shrimp, and, rest of Brazil, it is served cold as
of course, fish. iced tea. Although Brazil is very
Some of Brazil’s Brazilian Fruits much a cold beverage country,
the exception is the ubiquitous
best fish come Along with tropical
cafézinho, strong filter coffee.
not from the staples, there are
Most Brazilians drink it very
ocean but from regional fruits, most of sweet and at almost any time
the fresh waters The celebrated Brazilian which have no English of the day.
of the Pantanal caipirinha name. In Rio and parts
Camarão na Moranga is a Picanha steak is a sirloin Pudim de Leite, a traditional

stew of large, juicy prawns steak and usually comes Portuguese dessert, is made
cooked in coconut milk and served with only a dusting of from eggs, condensed milk,
served in a pumpkin. coarse salt. and caramelized sugar.
Where to Eat & Drink

CENTRO: Confeitaria Price Guide
Rio de Janerio City Colombo $$ Prices are based on a two-course meal
and non-alcoholic drinks for one person,
International Map 5 D3
plus service charges.
BARRA DA TIJUCA: Fratelli $$ Rua Goncalves Dias, 32
Italian Tel (21) 2505 1500 Closed Sun $ up to $25
Av Sernambetiba 2916 A tourist attraction in its own $$ $25 to $55
$$$$$ over $55
Tel (21) 2494 6644 right, this place has changed
This popular eatery close to Barra little since opening in 1894. It
beachfront opened in 1988 and is a coffee shop, tearoom, and COPACABANA & LEME:
serves rustic, traditional Italian, restaurant. Many famous people Le Pré Catelan $$$
including pizza. Good wine list. have visited, including King French Map 3 D5
Albert of Belgium and Britain’s Av Atlântica (Sofitel), 4240, Nível E
BARRA DA TIJUCA: Gero $$ Queen Elizabeth II. Tel (21) 2525 1160 Closed lunch, Sun
Italian One of Rio’s most sophisticated
Av Érico Veríssimo, 190 French restaurants and one of
Tel (21) 3523 5700 Closed Mon DK Choice the best. On offer is a traditional
Gero is part of the exclusive CENTRO: Nova Capela $$ menu of French favorites, with
Fasano family. This place serves Brazilian Map 5 D5 some sublime Brazilian touches
sophisticated cuisine in a fashion- Av Mem de Sá, 96 and flavors, including dishes from
able setting. Less expensive Tel (21) 2252 6228 the Amazon region.
executive menu offered at lunch. Much loved in Rio’s bohemian
nightlife scene, this authentic FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:
BARRA DA TIJUCA: Enotria and unpretentious institution Fogo de Chão $$
por Joachim Koerper $$$ dates back to 1903 and serves Brazilian
Mediterranean consistently good food until 3am Av Repórter Nestor Moreira, s/n
Av Ayrton Senna 2150, Bloco G Piso or later. The signature dish is Tel (21) 2279 7117
ljs.104/105 roast goat with broccoli rice, but One of Brazil’s best-known rodízio
Tel (21) 2431 9119 Closed Mon other highlights include Brazilian all-you-can-eat barbecue houses
dinner cod balls. Expect large portions. serving tender, tasty meats. Beef
One of Barra and Rio’s best Superb chopp on tap. is the specialty, but chicken, pork,
restaurants. The chef Joachim and lamb are also available. Enjoy
Koerper has already earned a views over Sugar Loaf Mountain
Michelin star from his work in COPACABANA & LEME: and Guanabara Bay as you eat.
Spain. Here, in CasaShopping, he Cervantes $
delivers a menu of contemporary Botequim Map 3 F1 FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:
Mediterranean-inspired dishes. . Av Prado Junior 335 Irajá $$
Tel (21) 2275 6147 Closed Mon Brazilian
CENTRO: Albamar $$ A mix of small bar, botequim, Rua Conde de Irajá 109
Seafood Map 5 E3 and restaurant. Famous for sand- Tel (21) 2246 1395
Praça Marechal Âncora, 184 wiches, late-night snacks, and This restaurant has helped build
Tel (21) 2240 8378 Closed Sun “one for the road” as night turns Botafogo’s growing reputation as
dinner to day. Always buzzing and fun. a hub for interesting, inventive,
Open since 1933 and set in the and contemporary dishes in fun
last surviving tower of the old COPACABANA & LEME: surroundings. Special tasting
Municipal Market, close to Praça Don Camillo $$ menu of 10 to 12 courses.
XV. Ask for a window seat, and Italian Map 3 D3
enjoy views over Guanabara Bay Av Atlântica, 3056
and dine on traditional seafood. Tel (21) 2549 9958
Most of Copacabana’s beachfront
CENTRO: Atrium del Rey $$ bars are not up to much when it
International Map 5 E3 comes to food. Don Camillo is
Praça XV de Novembro, 48 one of the exceptions, serving
Tel (21) 2220 0193 excellent Italian cuisine. Choose
Pleasant café in what was a to sit either on the outside
palace for the Imperial family terrace or inside in a more formal
from 1808. This is a good choice dining area.
if looking for a place for lunch
during a tour of downtown. COPACABANA & LEME:
Cipriani $$$
CENTRO: Cais $$ Italian Map 3 E2
Brazilian Map 5 E3 Av Atlântica, 1702 (Copacabana
Rua Visconde de Itaboraí, 8 Palace)
Tel (21) 2203 0178 Tel (21) 2548 7070 Closed Sun dinner
Attractive and eclectic restaurant This is an outstanding restaurant
set in a warehouse dating from offering top northern Italian
1878. It is popular for lunch and cuisine. The setting, overlooking
dinner with those working down- the pool of the Copacabana
town or going to the cultural Palace, makes it even more
corridor. The menu focuses on special. Not surprisingly, it is Stunning views across Guanabara Bay
contemporary Brazilian dishes. popular with visiting celebrities. at Albamar
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:

Majoríca $$
Steakhouse
Rua Senador Vergueiro, 11/15
Tel (21) 2205 6820
At this traditional and reliable
barbecue house, you order from
an extensive menu. It is a favorite
with residents and visitors
alike for some of the best meat
dishes in town.
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO:

Miam Miam $$
French/Brazilian
Rua General Goes Monteiro, 34
Tel (21) 2244 0125 Closed Sun & Mon
Contemporary and creative
comfort food and a relaxed retro
vibe have made Miam Miam a
popular option. Try the oxtail in Modern meets rustic at the innovative, inventive Lasai
crispy-crust pastry, or shrimp
with spaghetti, peach palm, and IPANEMA & LEBLON: IPANEMA & LEBLON:
garlic couscous. If you can’t Satyricon $$ Esplanada Grill $$$
decide, go for the tasting menu. Seafood Map 2 B4 Steakhouse Map 1 C4
Rua Barão Da Torre, 192 Rua Barão da Torre, 600
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO: Tel (21) 2521 0627 Tel (21) 2512 2970
Lasai $$$ Smart, elegant, reliable seafood Cozy steakhouse in the
Spanish/Brazilian restaurant, of which there is a middle of Ipanema that delivers
Rua Conde de Irajá 191 surprisingly limited choice in consistently high standards.
Tel (21) 3449 1834 Closed Sun & Mon Rio. It made a name for itself after There are more than 30 cuts of
The chefs here have both worked Madonna dropped in, quickly meat to choose from. This is a
at Spain’s two-Michelin-starred followed by Diana Ross and good alternative to the larger
Mugaritz. On offer are two daily- other celebrities. barbecue houses.
changing contemporary set
menus of innovative and inventive IPANEMA & LEBLON: IPANEMA & LEBLON:
dishes. A gourmand paradise. Sawasdee $$ Fasano al Mare $$$
Asian Map 2 A4 Italian Map 2 B5
FLAMENGO & BOTAFOGO: Rua Barão da Torre, 446 Av Vieira Souto 80
Porcão $$$ Tel (21) 3322 2150 Tel (21) 3202 4030
Brazilian This Ipanema branch is the Italian, Mediterranean, and
Av Infante Dom Henrique s/n, Aterro flagship of a well-dressed group seafood are on offer at this
do Flamengo that consistently serves some elegant (and expensive) flagship
Tel (21) 3389 8989 of the city’s best and most restaurant of the Fasano chain.
The flagship branch of Rio’s own interesting Asian cuisine, with a Designed by Philippe Starck, this
rodízio all-you-can-eat barbecue focus on Thai. The curries are hotel is also home to Baretto-
chain is always excellent, with a excellent, or try the squid stuffed Londra, one of Rio’s top bars.
choice of dishes that offers much with pork and shrimp. It gets very busy at weekends,
more than just grilled meats. so book ahead.
Plenty to satisfy vegetarians, too. IPANEMA & LEBLON:
Le Vin Bistro $$ LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO:
IPANEMA & LEBLON: French Map 2 A4 Bar Lagoa $
Capricciosa $$ Rua Barão da Torre, 490 German/Botequim Map 2 A4
Pizzeria Map 2 B5 Tel (21) 3502 1002 Av Epitacio Pessoa, 1674
Rua Vinícius de Moraes, 134 Comfortable and relaxing Tel (21) 2523 1135 Closed lunch
Tel (21) 2523 3394 French bistro in the heart of Mon–Fri
This popular and family-friendly Ipanema. Instantly recognizable Art Deco bar overlooking the
pizzeria is considered by many dishes, such as duck confit with Lagoa that serves a menu of
to offer the best pizza in Rio, but sauteéd potatoes. Another snacks and main meals with a
it isn’t the cheapest. branch can be found in Barra German touch. Great draft beer.
Shopping Center. Built in 1934 as Bar Berlin, this has
IPANEMA & LEBLON: become a Rio institution.
Casa da Feijoada $$ IPANEMA & LEBLON:
Brazilian Map 2 B5 Antiquarius $$$ LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO:
Rua Prudente de Moraes 10 Portuguese Map 1 A5 Lagoon $$
Tel (21) 2523 4994 Rua Aristides Espínola 19 International Map 1 B3
Feijoada is one of Brazil and Rio’s Tel (21) 2294 1049 Av Borges Medeiros 1424
most traditional dishes, but often An elegant, old-school institu- Tel (21) 2529 5300
only to be found on a Saturday. tion serving quality Portuguese Lagoon is an entertainment
Casa das Feijoada solves this fare, international favorites, and complex, so it has several
problem by serving this and other a highly regarded feijoada. For restaurants, including Giuseppe
traditional Brazilian dishes every four decades, this has been one Grill Mar, Gula Gula, Quadrifoglio,
day of the week. of Rio’s better restaurants. Pax Delícia, and Sushi Lagoa.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 383
LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO: PARATY: Bartholomeu $$

Roberta Sudbrack $$ French
Brazilian Rua Doutor Samuel Costa, 176
Av Lineu de Paula Machado, 916 Tel (24) 3371 5032
Tel (21) 3874 0139 Closed Sun Delightful contemporary French
Located in a house close to the restaurant that captures the
Botanical Gardens, Roberta historic spirit of Paraty in its
Sudbrack offers modern Brazilian setting. It also offers the more
dishes with a twist. Exquisite food. informal garden setting of Bartô
in the city square.
DK Choice PARATY: Punto Divino $$
LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO: Italian
Olympe $$$ Rua Marechal Deodoro, 129
French Map 2 A2 Tel (24) 3371 1348
Rua Custódio Serrão 62 Seafood and pizza – and even a
Tel (21) 2539 4542 Closed Sun seafood pizza – take pride of place
Claude Troisgros may come on the menu in this romantic little
from France, but he is also Rio’s restaurant just off the main
most famous and respected square. There is often live music.
chef, who has been perfecting
the art of combining Brazilian PETRÓPOLIS: Imperatriz
ingredients and style with the A beautifully presented dish at Glouton, Leopoldina – Solar do
best he can bring from France. Belo Horizonte Império $$
Small, elegant Olympe is the Portuguese
flagship of the Troisgros empire. BÚZIOS: Cigalon $$$ Av Koeller, 376
French Tel (24) 2103 3000
Av José Bento Ribeiro Dantas 199 Elegant setting within Petrópolis’s
LAGOA & JARDIM BOTÂNICO: Tel (22) 2623 1249 centrally located hotel, which
Rubaiyat $$$ One of the prettiest restaurants in itself is situated within two grand
Steakhouse Map 1 A2 Búzios with views across the bay, 19th-century houses. It is well
Rua Jardim Botânico 971 Cigalon is located in the house known for its tea served on Friday
Tel (21) 3204 9999 Closed Sun where Brigitte Bardot stayed in and Saturday at 5pm.
dinner 1964. French-inspired dishes and
In 2014, Rio finally got a branch of seafood take pride of place. PETRÓPOLIS: Majórica $$
São Paulo’s upmarket steakhouse. Steakhouse
The views of Christ the Redeemer BÚZIOS: Satyricon $$$ Rua do Imperador, 754
and the Jockey Club are a bonus. Seafood Tel (24) 2242 2498
Ask for a table on the balcony. Av José Ribeiro Dantas 500 High in the hills of Petrópolis, this
Tel (22) 2623 2691 is the place to come if you need
Satyricon is considered one of a meat fix. The traditional, reliable
DK Choice Rio’s best seafood restaurants, steakhouse offers a full menu,
SANTA TERESA: Aprazível$$$
Aprazível $$$ and the produce is as fresh as including seafood and salads.
Brazilian can be. Consistently good.
Rua Aprazível 62
Tel (21) 2508 9174 Closed Sun Espírito Santo
dinner, Mon DK Choice VITÓRIA: Lareira Portuguesa $$
This is one of those places to BÚZIOS: Sollar $$$ Portuguese
which locals take visitors for long Italian Av Saturnino de Brito, 260
lunches. Hidden in Santa Teresa, Avenida José Bento Ribeiro Tel (27) 3345 0331
and with superb views, offering Dantas, 994 This attractive, modern restaurant
tropical dining and inter
interesting
esting Tel (22) 2623 5392 Closed Sun– is famous for its bacalhau (cod)
dishes. Rustic, yet classy. Try the Wed and moquecas (fish stews).
grilled salt-water fish with Italian chef Danio Braga made
orange sauce, coconut rice, his name in Rio and now
cashew nuts, and baked plantain. spends his time between the
mountains and Búzios. He is Minas Gerais
responsible for one of the
town’s very best menus. Tasty
Italian dishes predominate, DK Choice
Rio de Janeiro State along with seafood. BELO HORIZONTE:
& Espírito Santo Glouton $$
Brazilian
Rio de Janeiro State PARATY: Banana da Terra $$ Rua Bárbara Heliodora, 59
Seafood Tel (31) 3292 4237 Closed Mon
BÚZIOS: Estância Don Juan $$ Rua Doutor Samuel Costa, 198 Come here for innovative, high-
Steakhouse Tel (24) 3371 1725 Closed lunch quality, creative, contemporary
Rua das Pedras, 178 Mon–Thu Brazilian and international fare
Tel (22) 2623 2169 Closed Mon; Located in the historic center as part of an ever-changing
lunch Tue & Wed in low season in a 17th-century house, this menu. Simple yet elegant
Seafood rules in Búzios, but if you charming, innovative Brazilian setting. There is also a small,
want a good steak in relaxed restaurant is under the command pretty garden area.
surroundings, head for Don Juan. of Ana Bueno.
BELO HORIZONTE: will find a menu of local favorites often take to the small stage or
Hermengarda $$ and international dishes. garden at the weekend.
Brazilian
Rua Outono, 314 OURO PRETO: Bené da Flauta $$ TIRADENTES: Tragaluz $$
Tel (31) 3225 3268 Closed Mon Regional Regional
Come here for excellent contem- Rua São Francisco de Assis, 32 Rua Direita, 52
porary Brazilian cuisine with a Tel (31) 3551 1036 Tel (32) 9968 4837 Closed Tue
strong infusion of Minas, set in a Located close to the church of Wonderful romantic setting in a
house that pays homage to the São Francisco, this place serves small colonial town house. The
chef’s grandmother. traditional Mineiro fare in a menu features dishes that have a
beautiful colonial house. The modern take on Mineiro cuisine,
BELO HORIZONTE: Trindade $$ upper floor has the best views. as well as international favorites.
Regional
Rua Alvarenga Peixoto 388 OURO PRETO: Chafariz $$
Tel (31) 2512 4479 Closed Mon, Regional
lunch Tue–Sat Rua São José 167 São Paulo City
Mineiro cooking is given a Tel (31) 3551 2828 Closed dinner,
contemporary and creative touch Mon CENTRO: La Casserole $$
in this modern and comfortable Very popular for its large, well- French Map 1 B2
restaurant. Choose to sit either on priced buffet of Mineiro dishes – Largo do Arouche, 346
the veranda or in the main room. a great way to try many of the Tel (11) 3331 6283 Closed Sun
local specialties at one sitting. dinner, Mon
BELO HORIZONTE: This intimate, traditional French
Vecchio Sogno $$ TIRADENTES: Estalagem do restaurant opened in 1954. The
Italian Sabor $$ vibe is business at lunch and
Rua Martim de Carvalho, 75 Regional romantic in the evening.
Tel (31) 3292 5251 Closed Sat lunch Rua Ministro Gabriel Passos 280A
& Sun dinner Tel (32) 3355 1144 Closed dinner CENTRO: Terraço Itália $$
Classic Italian dining with local One of the oldest and most Mediterranean Map 1 B2
touches that keep the menu respected restaurants in Av Ipiranga, 344
fresh. For over 20 years, this central Tiradentes serves typical Mineiro Tel (11) 2189 2929
restaurant has been considered cuisine from the freshest local Very few come to Terraço Itália for
one of Belo Horizonte’s best and ingredients. Small and homely. the food. The main attraction is
most consistent. the stunning views over the city
TIRADENTES: Kitanda Brasil $$ center from the 42nd floor.
OURO PRETO: O Passo $ Brazilian
Italian Rua Padroeiro Santo Antônio, 240 CENTRO: Famiglia Mancini $$$
Rua São José 56 Tel (32) 3355 1560 Closed Mon–Thu Italian Map 1 B3
Tel (31) 3552 5089 Superb, creative Brazilian dishes Rua Avanhandava, 81
Known for its pizza and live jazz, have resulted in this small Tel (11) 3256 4320
O Passo also offers a fuller menu restaurant being included on the In a city with many fine Italian
of a surprisingly high standard. list of Brazil’s best. Excellent restaurants, this traditional
Try to get a table on the terrace, caipirinhas, and there’s even a cantina is one of the favorites
with views over the historic town. colorful hammock to sleep it off. with the locals. Book ahead.
OURO PRETO: Senhora do TIRADENTES: Theatro da Villa $$ HIGIENÓPOLIS: Carlota $$

Rosário $ French Brazilian
Regional Rua Padre Toledo 157 Rua Sergipe, 753
Rua Getúlio Vargas 270 Tel (32) 3355 1275 Closed Sun Tel (11) 3661 8670 Closed Sun
Tel (31) 3551 4200 One for a special night out, dinner
In an elegant setting in one of this restaurant has a small but Charming and inventive “multi-
Ouro Preto’s most charming and interesting menu. It is in the cultural” bistro. Owner Carla
well-structured pousadas, here you town’s old theater, and musicians Pernambuco hosts cooking
programs and writes cookbooks.
HIGIENÓPOLIS: Ici Bistro $$$

French
Rua Pará, 36
Tel (11) 3259 6896
Cozy and romantic French bistro
of a high standard. The steak is a
highlight. Good wine list.
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA:

Amadeus $$
Seafood Map 4 E2
Rua Haddock Lobo, 807
Tel (11) 3061 2859
This elegant, traditional family
restaurant serves high-quality
modern and traditional seafood
dishes. It’s considered the place
Airy and spacious dining room at the Bené da Flauta, Ouro Preto to go for seafood in São Paulo.
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA: JARDINS & AV PAULISTA: VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
Tordesilhas $$ Rodeio $$$ Attimo $$
Brazilian Map 4 D2 Steakhouse Map 4 D3 Italian
Alameda Tietê, 489 Rua Haddock Lobo, 1498 Rua Diogo Jácome, 341
Tel (11) 3107 7444 Closed Sun Tel (11) 3474 1333 Tel (11) 5054 9999 Closed Mon
dinner, Mon, lunch Tue–Fri One of the city’s oldest and most Modern, well-dressed, and cool,
One of the few restaurants in charming barbecue houses this restaurant has a creative and
town to take traditional Brazilian opened in 1958 and helped make interesting menu that mixes Italian
cuisine seriously, this is the place the Jardins fashionable. It is and Brazilian influences. Well-
to go for a true taste of Brazil’s walking distance from some of the priced executive menu for lunch.
culinary arts. A good English- city’s most exclusive boutiques.
language menu helps visitors on
this voyage of discovery. LIBERDADE: Sushi Yassu $$ DK Choice
Asian Map 1 C4 VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
Rua Américo de Campos, 46 Rascal $$
DK Choice Tel (11) 3288 2966 Closed Mon Buffet
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA: São Paulo has one of the largest Av Presidente Juscelino
D.O.M. $$$ Japanese communities in the Kubitschek, 2041
Brazilian Map 4 D3 world, and they consider this Tel (11) 3152 6111
Rua Barão de Capanema 549 the best traditional Japanese The flagship branch of Rascal
Tel (11) 3088 0761 Closed Sat restaurant in town. Located in the has built a reputation for its high-
lunch, Sun heart of the Japanese quarter. quality, competitively priced all-
Chef Alex Atala is globally you-can-eat buffet, to which
recognized as one of the PINHEIROS: Arturito $$ other dishes may be added from
world’s most creative. His Mediterraneanl the à la carte menu, including
flagship restaurant regularly Rua Artur de Azevedo 542 pizza. Well-priced wine list.
features in the list of the world’s Tel (11) 3063 4951
top ten. A meal at D.O.M. is not The food here is creative and
something you are going to tasty; the setting, modern and
forget, but that also means charming. Chef Paola Carosella DK Choice
making a reservation before hails from Argentina and is a judge VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
you arrive in town. This may be on Brazilian TV’s MasterChef. Fogo de Chão $$$
one of the highlights of your Barbecue (Churrascaria)
visit to São Paulo. PINHEIROS: Mani $$$ Av dos Bandeirantes, 538
Brazilian Map 3 B3 Tel (11) 5505 0791
Rua Joaquim Antunes, 210 When it comes to upmarket
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA: Tel (11) 3085 4148 Closed Mon rodízio all-you-can-eat
Fasano $$$ Mani is regularly on the list of barbecue houses that really
Italian Map 4 D3 the world’s best restaurants, and deliver, then Fogo de Chão is
Rua Vittorio Fasano, 88 Helena Rizzo is its award-winning often found at the top of the
Tel (11) 3062 4000 Closed Sun chef. Stylish and modern, yet list. It may appear pricey at first
Sophisticated, classy Italian homely – all of which is reflected glance, but the variety and
with prices to match, this is the in the menu. Try the tasting menu. quality of the food on offer
highly regarded eponymous is worth the cost.
flagship of the Fasano group. PINHEIROS: Vecchio Torino $$$
Italian
JARDINS & AV PAULISTA: Rua Tavares Cabral, 119 VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:
Figueira Rubaiyat $$$ Tel (11) 3816 0592 Closed Sun Kinoshita $$$
Steakhouse Map 4 D3 dinner, Mon Asian
Rua Haddock Lobo, 1738 Hidden away in a fairly Rua Jacques Félix, 405
Tel (11) 3087 1399 nondescript house in a side road, Tel (11) 3849 6940 Closed Sun
Diners come here for some of the this place offers sophisticated, Highly regarded authentic
best beef in town in an informal, traditional Italian cuisine. The Japanese cuisine with a twist
chic setting. Fish and vegetarian gnocchi is highly rated, and there of fusion and Kappo cuisine.
dishes are also available. is an impressive wine list. It is all delivered in a stylish,
elegant, and tasteful atmosphere.
In a city well renowned for its
good Asian options, this is one
of the best.
VILA OLÍMPIA & ITAIM BIBI:

Skye $$$
International Map 4 E5
Av Brigadeiro Luís Antônio, 4700
Tel (11) 3055 4702
This is the rooftop restaurant and
bar that São Paulo’s most stylish
and fashionable boutique hotel
deserves, with jaw-dropping
views across São Paulo. It is the
place to see and be seen, and the
contemporary international
One of the superb dishes created by Alex Atala at D.O.M., São Paulo City menu does not disappoint.
UBATUBA: Solar das

Águas Cantantes $$ DK Choice
Seafood SALVADOR: A Casa Vidal $$
Estrada do Saco da Ribeira 951 Spanish
Tel (12) 3842 0178 Rua Afonso Celso, 294
Seafood and traditional Tel (71) 3565 8008 Closed Mon
moquecas (fish stews) are This small, pretty, contemporary
served in this pousada’s Spanish restaurant, with a large
restaurant, which sits on one infusion of Bahian and other
of the prettiest beaches in Brazilian influences, has quickly
Ubatuba. Family-friendly. established itself high on the
list of the best and most
interesting places to eat in
Salvador. Located in Barra, close
Bahia to the historic Farol da Barra.
Don’t miss the variety of tapas
ITACARE: Boca de Forno $$ to start, and then try the mixed
Elegant, relaxed dining area at A Casa Pizzeria seafood platter.
Vidal, Salvador Beco Das Flores
Tel (73) 3251 3121
The eclectic and cool decor SALVADOR: Al Carmo $$
São Paulo State here, including chandeliers and Italian
colorful artworks, help this hip Rua do Carmo, 42
GUARUJÁ: Casa Grande $$ eatery stand out from the crowd. Tel (71) 3242 0283 Closed Sun
International The pizzas, including the sweet Located in a beautifully restored
Av Miguel Stéfano, 1001 ones, are well worth coming for. colonial building off the
Tel (13) 2102 4000 Pelourinho that, from the back
Casa Grande is a sprawling LENÇOIS: Cozinha Aberta $ terrace, overlooks the bay of
colonial resort on the beachfront International Todos os Santos and the lower
with five restaurants and four Av Rui Barbosa, 42, Centro city, this simple Italian is a good
bars of varying levels of sophisti- Tel (75) 3334 1321 choice when sightseeing.
cation. Good choice if visiting for Just off the main square, this
the day or touring in the area. charming restaurant serves a SALVADOR: Fogo de Chão $$
varied international menu of Barbecue (Churrascaria)
GUARUJÁ: Il Faro $$ “slow food.” This covers Praça Colombo, 4, Rio Vermelho
Italian everything from Hungarian Tel (71) 3555 9292
Av Miguel Stéfano, 4659 goulash to Thai curry. When you are looking for a
Tel (13) 3351 5559 Closed Mon–Thu change from seafood and
Opened in 1972, this popular LENÇOIS: Os Artistas Bahian cuisine, try this branch
beachfront eatery offers Italian- da Massa $ of São Paulo’s excellent
and Mediterranean-inspired Italian upmarket all-you-can-eat
dishes. Good selection of fresh Rua da Baderna, 49 barbecue chain. Meat lovers
seafood. Lovely views over the sea. Tel (75) 3334 1886 Closed times will not be disappointed.
vary; call in advance to check
ILHABELA: Viana $$ This is a simple Italian-owned SALVADOR: Quattro Amici $$
Seafood restaurant that serves excellent Pizzeria
Praia do Viana well-priced pasta, as well as other Rua Dom Marcos Teixeira, 35
Tel (12) 3896 1089 Italian dishes. Tel (71) 3264 5999
Fresh and tasty seafood drive the Popular and charming pizzeria
menu here. Sit either in the main MORRO DE SÃO PAULO: hidden away in a historic house
restaurant overlooking the beach Pimenta Rosa $$ down a side street.
or on the deck and tables on the Seafood
sand. Dip in and out of the sea Quarta Praia – Morro de São Paulo SALVADOR: Soho $$
between courses. Tel (75) 3652 1506 Asian
Located right on the fourth Av Lafayete Coutinho (Av Contorno)
beach, this beach bar and 1010, Bahia Marina
DK Choice restaurant has a good infra- Tel (71) 3322 4554
SÃO SEBASTIÃO: Manacá $$$ structure, great views, and Popular and fashionable chain of
International friendly staff. Try the Caipfruta, upmarket Japanese restaurants.
Rua Manacá, 102 a version of a caipirinha. The stunning flagship branch in
Tel (12) 3865 2546 Closed Mon– the marina offers glorious views
Wed SALVADOR: Solar Café $ over the bay of Todos os Santos.
Tucked off the road and sur- International
roun
roundedded by luscious vegetation, Rua da Graça, 284 SALVADOR: Yemanjá $$
this is one of those places you Tel (71) 3328 3444 Closed Mon Brazilian
have to make the effort to This small, unpretentious café/ Av Otávio Mangabeira, 4661
visit, but it offers a special restaurant is located in the Tel (71) 3461 9010
experience. It started out in Palacete das Artes, which also Sited on the coast, and with
1988 to supply breakfast to houses a cultural center and a beach views, this is the place to
surfers but is now known for its museum of modern art. Guests come for an introduction to and
ambience and excellent fresh can also enjoy great views over immersion into the local Bahian
fish and seafood. the bay of Todos os Santos from cuisine and customs – something
the terrace. of a gastronomic institution.
TRANSCOSO: O Cacau $$$

Brazilian
Praça São João Batista, 96
Tel (73) 3668 1266 Closed Mon
The entrance to this attractive
restaurant is off the main square,
with a candlelit path leading up
to the wide deck. Bahian cooking
with an Oriental twist.
TRANSCOSO: Capim Santo $$$

Seafood
Rua do Beco, 55
Tel (73) 3668 1122 Closed Sun
There is a wonderful ambience
here in the colorful grounds of
the pousada of the same name.
Creative modern Brazilian menu.
Atmospheric dining area at the Capim Santo, Transcosco, Bahia

Sergipe, Alagoas &
Pernambuco the pretty veranda or the cozy PORTO DE GALINHAS:
indoor atmosphere. Peixe na Telha $
Sergipe Seafood
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Av Beira Mar, 40-B
ARACAJU: Cariri $$ Ecologikus $$ Tel (81) 3552 1323
Brazilian Seafood Informal beachfront restaurant
Rua Niceu Dantas, 775 Estrada Velha do Sueste that works in tandem with its
Tel (79) 3243 1379 Tel (81) 3619 1807 Closed Sun neighbor, the Encontro dos
Lively restaurant serving large por- This simple, cozy mom-and-pop Mares bistro, serving north-
tions of meat and seafood regional restaurant offers a nice selection eastern specialties along with
dishes. The show house offers forró of fresh seafood and other dishes. fresh seafood. Perfect spot for
and other entertainment. It’s not the easiest place to find long lunches after a day on the
but is worth the effort. beach. Try the “fish on a tile.”
ARACAJU: Muratto $$
Mediterranean OLINDA: Don Francesco $
Rua Doutor Bezerra de Menezes, 102 Italian DK Choice
Tel (79) 3255 2376 Closed Mon Rua Prudente de Morais, 358 PORTO DE GALINHAS:
Choose between contemporary Tel (81) 3429 3852 Closed Mon Beijupirá $$
Mediterranean-inspired dishes and Tucked away in the cobbled Seafood
Japanese sushi at this elegant streets of Olinda, this simple Rua Beijupirá s/n, Praia dos
venue. Live music also features. trattoria serves up tasty, Carneiros
unpretentious Italian cooking. Tel (81) 3676 1461
Colorful and atmospheric spot
Alagoas to test some inventive contem-
MACEIO: Wanchako $ DK Choice porary Brazilian dishes with a
Peruvian OLINDA: Oficina do Sabor $$ tropical feel. The restaurant is
Rua São Francisco de Assis, 93 Brazilian almost as famous as the town
Tel (82) 3377 6024 Closed Sun Rua do Amparo, 335 itself – a must-visit.
This is one of Maceio’s most Tel (81) 3429 3331 Closed Mon
popular eateries, serving Peruvian This “workshop of flavors” is the
recipes with Brazilian ingredients. best known of Olinda’s restaur- RECIFE: Chica Pitanga $
ants and perfectly captures the Buffet
MACEIO: Sur $$ spirit and atmosphere of the Rua Petrolina, 19
Regional area. It offers a creative menu of Tel (81) 3465 2224
Rua Professora Maria Esther da Costa local Pernambucan and Brazilian A pleasant “by the kilo” restaurant
Barros 306 dishes, many featuring fresh offering a good-quality buffet at
Tel (82) 9808 9090 Closed Mon & Tue seafood. Try for a table on the reasonable prices, where you only
This critically acclaimed restaurant veranda with views over Olinda. pay for what you take. It is popular
serves exquisite contemporary with locals and visitors, and well
dishes with an Alagoan influence. located for hotels on Boa Viagem.
PORTO DE GALINHAS:
Domingos $ RECIFE: Leite $$
Pernambuco Brazilian/French Portuguese
FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Rua Beijupirá 116, Galeria Paraoby Praça Joaquim Nabuco, 147
Cacimba Bistro $ Tel (81) 3552 1464 Tel (81) 3224 7977 Closed Sat
International Charming and romantic restaurant A piece of history, Leite has been
Praça Pres Eurico Dutra 9, Vila dos that, along with Beijupira, is the operating since 1882 and is still
Remedios best in town. A varied menu of going strong, one of the oldest in
Tel (81) 3619 1200 French and Brazilian influences Brazil. The menu features regional
Romantic bistro that is beautifully offers something for every taste. and Portuguese influences served
lit at night. Choose between Good wine list. Live piano music. in an elegant, colonial setting.
RECIFE: Ponte Nova $$ NATAL: Âncora Caipira $ this pizzeria in the center of the
French Brazilian village. Balcony tables available.
Rua do Cupim, 172 Av Campos Sales 474
Tel (81) 3327 7226 Closed Mon Tel (84) 3202 9364 Closed Mon & FORTALEZA: L’O $
The decor and menu here are Carnaval Brazilian
inspired by French Art Nouveau, This is a firm favorite with the Av Pessoa Anta 217
but with a distinctively contem- locals for its authentic north- Tel (85) 3265 2288
porary Brazilian feel to both. The eastern cuisine. It is also famed for A mixture of Art Deco and more
restaurant is as charming by its sun-dried meat (carne do sol). modern touches has resulted
candlelight as it is by the natural in one of the city’s most
light of day for Sunday lunch. NATAL: Camarões Potiguari $$ sophisticated and striking dining
Seafood spots, with a lovely garden bar in
Rua Pedro Fonseca Filho, 8887 which to start or end the meal.
Tel (84) 3209 2425 Don’t mis the rack of lamb or the
Paraíba, Rio Grande If you like shrimp or prawns, you smoked haddock risotto.
do Norte & Ceará will be in heaven here, but there
are many other dishes on offer.
One of Natal’s largest and most DK Choice
Paraíba
popular restaurants. FORTALEZA: Coco Bambu $$
JOÃO PESSOA: Mangai $ Seafood
Brazilian NATAL: Manary Gastronomia Av Beira Mar, 3698
Av General Édson Ramalho, 696 & Arte $$ Tel (85) 3198 6000
Tel (83) 3226 1615 Seafood Founded in Fortaleza in 2001
The very large buffet here – they Rua Francisco Gurgel, 9067 this is a reliable and fast growing
work with more than 200 recipes Tel (84) 3204 2900 chain of modern, informal
– offers a great introduction to Glorious setting for lunch or seafood restaurants that won’t
many northeastern specialties dinner in Natal’s best boutique disappoint. This branch is one of
and delicacies. Look for branches hotel with sea views and sounds. three in Fortaleza and is right on
in Natal and Brasília, too. This very special place is worth at the seashore. The menu is very
least one visit while in Natal. varied and includes a wide
JOÃO PESSOA: Quintal Restô $$ selection of salads and traditional
Brazilian PRAIA DE PIPA: Dall’Italiano $ dishes. Try the fish fillet with
Rua Eutiquiano Barreto, 863 Italian banana and white sauce, or with
Tel (83) 9179 3900 Closed Sun–Tue Rua do Céu mango sauce. and nuts.
Call to make a reservation, and Tel (84) 9152 8651 Closed Mon &
wait to be charmed by the culin- Wed in low season
ary skills on display in the city’s Nicely decorated, cozy, informal FORTALEZA: Colher de Pau $$
best restaurant in terms of food. pizzeria located just off the main Brazilian
The menu changes almost daily. street. The menu also includes Rua Ana Bilhar, 1178
seafood, pasta, and salads. Tel (85) 3267 6680
Lovely outdoor restaurant
Rio Grande do Norte TIBAU DO SUL: Camamo $$ offering all the color and flavor of
GENIPABU: Bar 21 $$ Brazilian the regional cuisine of both the
Brazilian Av Governador Aluísio Alves 184 coast and interior of Ceará. There
Praia de Genipabu Tel (84) 3246 4195 is also often live music.
Tel (84) 3224 2484 Here you will be treated to a set
The setting – on stilts above the menu of six courses at a table on
sea at the bottom of a sand dune the candlelit veranda of the
– is the main attraction of this chef’s lovely house. Numbers are Piauí & Maranhão
thatched-roofed bar/restaurant. very limited each night, so make
Stick to catch of the day and you a reservation for this exclusive Piauí
won’t go far wrong. Lunch only. dining experience. TERESINA: Coco Bambu $$
Seafood
Rua Professor Joca Vieira, 1227
Ceará Tel 86 3232 8100
CANOA QUEBRADA: This popular branch of the
L’Atelier do Brasil $ reliable Coco Bambu seafood
International chain is one of the best in town
Rua Nascer do Sol, 360 and a favorite meeting point.
Tel (88) 8817 9964 Closed Wed Outdoor and indoor seating.
Track down this cozy, romantic, Pasta, pizza, and steaks, too.
atmospheric restaurant, one
block off the bustle of “Broadway,” TERESINA: Favorita Comida
and sample its menu of inter- Tipica $$
national favorites. Brazilian
Rua Angélica, 1059
CANOA QUEBRADA: Tel (86) 3232 2020
Pizza Nostra $ Rustic yet comfortable, this spot
Pizzeria is generally thought to serve the
Rua Dragão do Mar 2040, Broadway best regional fare in town. The
Tel (88) 9680 5863 Closed Mon Favorito group has five more
One of Camarões Potiguari’s tasty prawn Grills, seafood, and vegetarian restaurants in Teresina, including
and shrip dishes, Natal options are also all on offer at the pizzeria Favorito Forneira.
Maranhão
DK Choice
LENCOIS MARANHENSES: Pará & Amapá
Luzía $ MANAUS: Banzeiro $$
Seafood Brazilian
Canto do Atins Pará Rua Libertador, 102
Tel (98) 9 8709 7661 BELEM: Lá em Casa $ Tel (92) 3234 1621
The only restaurant and pousada Brazilian This attractive, functional restaur-
restaur-
within the Parque dos Lençóis Estação das Docas – Av Boulevard ant is credited with breathing
Maranhenses, on the edge of the Castilho França, Galpão 2 new life into Amazonian cuisine.
sand dunes, serves specialties of Tel (91) 3212 5588 It is considered the best option
prawn, fresh fish, and goat. Serving regional Amazon dishes, at which to try out an
Lá em Casa is located inside the Amazonian cuisine that uses a
SÃO LUIS: Antigamente $ dock area in the beautiful mall, selection of exotic ingredients. If
Brazilian offering views over the river. you have come all the way to
Rua da Estrela, 220 There is an open-air terrace, too. Manaus and like to experiment,
Tel (98) 9 8876 7151 don’t miss the experience.
Located in the historic center
of the old town, this pretty DK Choice
restaurant is good for snacks and BELEM: Remanso MANAUS: Bufalo Churrascaria $$
a beer, as well as full meals. Large do Bosque $$ Barbecue
patio for musical entertainment. Regional Rua Pará 490
Av Rômulo Maiorana, 2350 Tel (92) 9219 7243
Tel (91) 3347 2829 Closed Mon Considered the best in town for
DK Choice Innovative and creative use of meat, this is a popular rodízio all-
SÃO LUIS: Cabana do Sol $ local Amazon ingredients makes you-can-eat barbecue house –
Brazilian this the most interesting choice plus sushi and an American bar.
Rua João Rereiro Damasceno 24, for foodies who want a gourmet
Km 5, Ponta do Farol experience – Amazonian chic, if MANAUS: Himawari $$
Tel (98) 3304 4235 you like. It has the same owners Asian
Sun-dried beef (carne de sol),l as the less sophisticated Rua 10 de Julho, 618
goat, chicken, and other local Remanso de Peixe, con considered
sidered Tel (92) 3233 4229 Closed Mon
dishes are the specialties at Belém’s best for seafood. The best and most traditional
this popular, well-regarded Japanese restaurant in Manaus is
restaurant. Ambience and bar conveniently located right next
all inspired by local culture. to the famous Opera House.
Another branch at Av Litorânea Amapá Great sushi is served here.
and one in Imperatriz. MACAPA: Estaleiro $
Seafood
Av 1 Maio Roraima
SÃO LUIS: Senac $ Tel (96) 3222 8375 BOA VISTA: Tropical Peixada $
Buffet Macapa is not overly blessed Seafood
Rua de Nazaré, 242 when it comes to restaurants, Rua Ajuricaba, 1525
Tel (98) 3198 1100 but Estaleiro is considered one Tel (95) 3224 6040 Closed Wed &
Part of the national hotel and of the best and most reliable. 3rd Sun of month
catering school, this exceptional Nautically themed. Popular street-corner restaurant
all-you-can-eat buffet is in a large with an airy outdoor seating area.
house in the historic center. Popular for lunch. The menu
Good introduction to local and favors seafood and Amazon fish.
other Brazilian dishes. Amazonas, Roraima,
Acre & Rondõnia Acre
Amazonas RIO BRANCO: Point do Pato $
Regional
MANAUS: Fiorentina $ Praca Jose Bisteni
Italian Tel (68) 9972 8112 Closed Sun
Rua José Paranaguá, 44 Popular and trendy with locals,
Tel (92) 3215 2233 young and old alike, this spot
This is a pleasant, popular Italian specializes in regional dishes
restaurant in the center of such as alligator steaks, as well as
Manaus that serves a good international favorites, including
range of pasta, sushi, and other pasta and pizza. Live music.
standard dishes. Feijoada is
offered on Saturdays.
Rondõnia
MANAUS: Canto da Peixada $ PORTO VELHO: Caravela do
Seafood Madeira $
Av Ayrão, 1677 Seafood
Tel (92) 3234 3021 Rua José Camacho, 104
One of Manaus’ best-known fish Tel (69) 3221 6641 Closed Mon
restaurants, this is the ideal place This rustic but comfortable res-
to try many of the local Amazon taurant, with views of the Madeira
Bright and lively dining area at river fish that you will not find river and rainforest, specializes in
Antigamente, São Luis anywhere else in the world. river fish, including grilled piranha.
Tocantins
PALMAS: Adelaide Bistro $
Brazilian
Quadra 110 Sul, Alameda 21 lotes
73/75
Tel (63) 9214 0792
Although in a residential area, this
is still the best place for a relaxing
meal. Pretty veranda and pool
area. Reliable food and service.
Mato Grosso & Mato

Grosso do Sul
Mato Grosso
CUIABÁ: Getúlio $$
Regional
Av Presidente Getúlio Vargas, 1147
A large portion of tasty food that’s ideal for sharing at Casa do João, Bonito Tel (65) 3624 9992 Closed Mon
Reliable steaks and other grills,
PORTO VELHO: Miyoshi $ BRASÍLIA: Gero $$$ including fish, are served here.
Asian Italian High-end yet casual, and always
Av Amazonas 1280, Nossa Senhora SHIN, CA 4, Lote A, loja 22 a lively buzz. There is a popular
das Graças Tel (61) 3577 5520 nightclub above the restaurant.
Tel (69) 3224 4600 Located in Shopping Iguatemi,
Amazon ingredients are used this is a branch of Fasano’s CUIABÁ: Mahalo Cozinha
here to create traditional Chinese fashionable and popular contem- Criativa $$
and Japanese dishes on a large porary Italian eatery. Stylish, yet Regional
menu. Modern and pleasant. relaxed. One of the best in town. Rua Pres Castello Branco 359
Tel (65) 3028 7700 Closed some
Sundays (call to check)
DK Choice This smart, charming, creative
Brasília, Goiás & BRASÍLIA: Taypá $$$ contemporary restaurant made a
Tocantins Peruvian name for itself during the 2014
Setor de Habitações Individuais World Cup. The menu is inter-
Brasília Sul, Quadra 17, Bl 9, Shopping national with regional touches.
Fashion Park
BRASÍLIA: Corrients 348 $$ Tel (61) 3248 0403
Steakhouse Highly regarded by critics and Mato Grosso do Sul
Setor de Clubes Esportivos Sul Trecho considered one of the city’s BONITO: Casa do João $
2, Lote40 very best, this unpretentious Seafood
Tel (61) 3345 1348 Closed Mon Peruvian restau
restaurant
rant is away Rua Coronel Nelson Felício dos
This is a branch of the excellent from the city center and has an Santos 664A
Argentine steakhouse chain that innovative, ever-changing Tel (67) 3255 1212
has restaurants in São Paulo and menu. Excellent ceviche, but it Not a lot of choice in Bonito, but
Rio. Informal, relaxed atmosphere contemporary
also has contemp orary inter- Casa do João should satisfy most
and views over Lagoa Paranoá. national dishes and a pisco bar. diners, offering a good variety of
tasty dishes. Large portions, too.
BRASÍLIA: Dalí Camões $$$
Portuguese/Spanish BRASÍLIA: Trattoria da CAMPO GRANDE: Cantina
Setor Hoteleiro Sul, Qd 6, Bl B Rosario $$$ Romana $$
(Brasil 21) Italian Italian
Tel (61) 3039 8156 Closed Sun Shopping Fashion Park – SHIS Qi 17, Rua da Paz 237
Located in Hotel Brasil 21, this Bl H s/n Tel (67) 3324 9777
smart, elegant restaurant serves a Tel (61) 3248 1672 Closed Mon This is a popular, reliable Italian
nice selection of Portuguese and One of the most consistent Italian cantina that has built a name and
Catalan specialties. Don’t miss restaurants in town – although local following since opening in
the seafood selection platter. not the cheapest – is this smart 1978. The owner also operates
spot located in Fashion Park. the busy Pizzeria Romana in
BRASÍLIA: Fogo de Chão $$$ Campo Grande.
Barbecue (Churrascaria)
SHS Quadra 5, Bloco E, Asa Sul Goiás CAMPO GRANDE:
Tel (61) 3322 4666 CHAPADA DOS VEADEIROS: Fogo Caipira $$
This is a branch of the excellent Massa da Mamma $ Brazilian
Fogo de Chão barbecue house, Italian Rua José Antônio Pereira 145
recognized as one of the best all- Rua São José Operário, 305 Tel (67) 3324 1641 Closed Mon
you-can-eat barbecues in Brazil. Tel (62) 3446 1362 This restaurant is the best in
Centrally located, it is, not As its name suggests, this is a town for regional Pantanal fare. It
surprisingly, one of the city’s simple Italian cantina. Its specialty is very popular at weekends, so
most popular, and it seats 600. is pasta, but it also offers pizza. consider booking in advance.
CURITIBA: Terra Madre $$$

Santa Catarina & Italian
Rua Desembargador Otávio do
Paraná Amaral, 515
Santa Catarina Tel (41) 3335 6070 Closed Mon lunch
Modern Italian and international
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Arante $$ fare is offered here, with Brazilian
Seafood influences on a well-balanced
Rua Abelardo Otácilio Gomes 254, menu. Also a wine bar and store.
Pântano do Sul
Tel (48) 3237 7022 FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Clube
This large beachside bar and Maringá $
restaurant is something of a local Seafood
fixture. Crowded at the weekends Rua Dourado, 111
and on summer evenings, it Tel (45) 3527 9683 Closed Mon
serves reliable seafood dishes. Part of the local fishing club, this
The walls are covered in notes is a good choice for lunch, with a
left by visitors since the 1970s. Notes written by diners adorn the walls of great view across the river and
Arante, Florianópolis on to Paraguay. The fixed-price
FLORIANÓPOLIS: buffet includes local fish and
Ostradamus $$ CURITIBA: Famiglia Caliceti – other international dishes.
Seafood Ristorante Bologna $$
Rod Baldicero Filomeno, 7640 Italian FOZ DO IGUAÇU: La Mafia $
Tel (48) 3337 5711 Closed Mon Alameda Doutor Carlos de Carvalho, Italian
Oysters are a specialty here and 1367 Alameda Watslaf Nieradka, 195
are freshly harvested from the Tel (41) 3076 9477 Closed Tue Tel (45) 3572 1015
neighboring oyster beds, 18 Pretty, well-decorated and trad- This fun, quirky Mafia-themed
miles (30 km) from the center of itional Italian restaurant; it has Italian trattoria and wine bar is
Florianópolis. Other seafood been something of an institution popular with visitors and serves
options are available, too. since opening in 1972, when the tasty food at reasonable prices.
owners arrived from Bologna.
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Restinga FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Bufalo
Recanto $$ CURITIBA: Madalosso $$ Branco $$
Seafood Italian Brazilian
Rodovia Rafael da Rocha Pires, 2759 Av Manoel Ribas, 5875 Rua Engenheiro Rebouças, 530
Tel (48) 3235 2093 Closed Sun Tel 41 3372 2121 Tel (45) 3523 9744
dinner, Mon A very large restaurant – it sits Probably the best barbecue
This popular, inviting rustic restau- 4,500 – Madalosso is an attraction house in town, Bufalo Branco is
rant serves super-fresh Portuguese in its own right, serving a good- centrally located but offers free
seafood. Panoramic beach and sea quality, fixed-price Italian buffet transfers from some of the out-
views from the terrace. Folk- though a number of salons. of-town hotels. Casual and fun.
dancing at the weekends. Located in the Italian quarter of
the city, in Santa Felicidade.
FLORIANÓPOLIS: Villa DK Choice
Maggioni $$ FOZ DO IGUAÇU: Itaipu $$$
Mediterranean DK Choice Brazilian
Rua Canto da Amizade 273, Canto CURITIBA: Madero Durski $$ Hotel das Cataratas, Iguaçu
da Lagoa International National Park
Tel (48) 3232 6859 Closed Mon & Tue Av Jaime Reis 254 Tel (45) 2102 7000
Intimate restaurant on the shores Tel (41) 3225 7893 Closed Sun Even if not staying at the Hotel
of Lagoa da Conceição. The inter- Durski, which, unusually, offers Cataratas, you should head out
national menu features Italian an international menu with for dinner either at the Itaipu,
and Mediterranean influences. Ukrainian and Polish specialties, with its terrace overlooking
is one of the city’s most talked the falls, or the more popular
and written about, and in a very poolside Ipê Grill. Itaipu
Paraná good way. In 2015 it expanded offers an interesting fusion of
CURITIBA: Barolo Trattoria $$ to join forces with its neigh- international and Brazilian, while
Italian boring Madero Steakhouse and Ipê serves an outstanding high-
Av Silva Jardim, 2487 now offers diners the best from class buffet including barbecue.
Tel (41) 3243 3430 both menus in a more relaxed, Dining here also allows you to
This excellent, charming Italian less formal setting. see and visit the falls at night
trattoria also has a few Brazilian when the park is shut.
influences to keep it interesting.
Nice atmosphere. Good wine list. CURITIBA: L’Épicerie $$$
French PARANAGUÁ: Danúbio Azul $$
CURITIBA: Batel Grill $$ Rua Fernando Simas, 340 Seafood
Brazilian Tel (41) 3079 1889 Closed Sun & Rua XV de Novembro, 95
Av Nossa Senhora Aparecida, 78 Mon Tel (41) 3423 3255 Closed Sun dinner
Tel (41) 3342 8101 Considered the city’s best French On the water’s edge, this restaur-
This large, modern, popular restaurant, this is a charming, ant, open since 1953, specializes
rodizio all-you-can-eat barbecue reliable, comfy bistro in one of in seafood and Paraná cuisine.
house is considered the best of Curitiba’s best neighborhoods. Try for a table by the window.
its type in Curitiba. It has a good wine list, too. A buffet is served at lunch.
PORTO ALEGRE: PORTO ALEGRE: Steinhaus $$

Rio Grande do Sul Al Dente $$ German
Italian Rua Coronel Paulino Teixeira, 415
Rua Mata Bacelar, 210 Tel (51) 3330 8661 Closed Sun
Tel 51 3343 1841 Closed Sun Generally named as the best
DK Choice A small, cozy, intimate Italian traditional German restaurant
BENTO GONÇALVES: restaurant. Classic, consistently in a town with many German
Casa di Paolo $$ well-prepared north Italian dishes influences, this has built a solid
Brazilian are the main thrust here. reputation since opening in 1979.
RSC-470, Km 221.6
Tel (54) 3463 8505 Closed Sun PORTO ALEGRE: PORTO ALEGRE: Via Veneto
dinner Chez Philippe $$ Galeteria $$
One of the specialties in the French Brazilian
south is mouthwatering, slow- Av Independência, 1005 Rua José de Alencar, 501
barbecued chicken (galeto), and Tel (51) 3312 5333 Tel (51) 3233 1400 Closed Sun
the Casa di Paolo chain, which Excellent, high-quality French dinner
also serves other dishes, is often cuisine with a strong Brazilian Barbecued chicken is the specialty
voted best in class. You will accent is served in a lovely, at this excellent restaurant, but
find branches across the south centrally located garden setting. there is also a full buffet of other
including Porto Alegre, Caxias, dishes and accompaniments.
and Gramado. Comfortable PORTO ALEGRE:
and informal eatery. Koh Pee Pee $$
Asian DK Choice
Rua Schiller, 83 PORTO ALEGRE: Floriano
BENTO GONÇALVES: Maria Tel (51) 3333 5150 Closed Sun Spiess Cozinha de autor $$$
Valduga $$ Stylish, authentic Thai restaurant International
Italian that has kept its standards high Praça do Japão, 155
Via Trento, 2355 – Vale dos since opening in 1997. It is Tel (51) 3237 7601 Closed Sun &
Vinhedos regarded as one of Porto Alegre’s Mon
Tel (54) 2105 3122 very best restaurants of any type. This is the city’s most talked
Four charming, rustic dining about and written about
areas make up Maria Valduga, PORTO ALEGRE: NB Steak $$ contempo
contemporary rary restaurant,
which is located within the Barbecue (Churrascaria) yet still with a culinary foot in
Valduga winery. A set Italian Av Nilo Peçanha, 2131 the best of the past. Serious
meal is served at lunch, and it Tel (51) 3333 1413 gourmands should follow the
will open for dinner for groups of This is part of a growing chain creative tasting menu prepared
20 or more. The food is superb of smart, comfortable rodízio all- by the owner and chef. Make
and beautifully presented. you-can-eat barbecue houses, sure you save room for dessert.
with a more elegant presentation Book ahead.
GRAMADO: Belle du Valais $$$ than many of its rivals.
Swiss
Av das Hortências, 1432 PORTO ALEGRE: Puppi PORTO ALEGRE: Le Bateau
Tel (54) 3286 1744 Closed lunch Baggio $$ Ivre $$$
This popular, cozy, elegant spot is Italian French
great for fondue and raclette Rua Dinarte Ribeiro, 155 Rua Tito Lívio Zambecari 805
during the colder winter months, Tel (51) 3346 3630 Closed Mon Tel (51) 3330 7351 Closed Sun &
and one of the best Swiss Some of the best and most Mon
restaurants in Brazil through the reliable pasta dishes in town are For over a decade, the French
year. Extensive wine cellar. served here, as well as pizza, in a chef here has been serving
rustic, chic setting in a lovely some of the city’s best Provençal
GRAMADO: La Caceria $$$ house. Well loved by the locals. cooking in comfy surroundings.
Brazilian
Av Borges de Medeiros 3166
Tel (54) 3295 7575
The charming top restaurant of
the Casa da Montanha hotel has
a small but interesting menu
with a focus on game and other
by-products of the hunt. The
hotel also houses the cozy Bistrô
da Varanda.
GRAMADO: Saint Andrews $$$

International
Rua Leopoldo Geyer – Cond V
Bosque 171
Tel (54) 3295 7700
Saint Andrews is one of Gramado’s
most attractive and best boutique
hotels. Its elegant Primrose restaur-
ant offers high-quality fine dining
(and a chance to see the hotel,
which is part of Relais & Châteaux). The warm decor at Koh Pee Pee, Porto Alegre
SHOPPING IN BRAZIL
The most exciting aspect of shopping (workshops) showcase the unique,
in Brazil is that it never fails to surprise attractive products manufactured by the
visitors with its amazing variety. Major local people. Colorful street markets and
cities, such as Rio (see pp94–5) and camelódromos offer a truly exhilarating
São Paulo (pp154–5), have expansive, Brazilian shopping experience. The prices
world-class shopping centers that are, by and large, reasonable, and large
have everything from sophisticated items can be shipped home. In most state
boutiques to high-tech items. Craft capitals and tourist areas the opening
centers, artisans’ houses, and ateliers hours are extended for convenience.
Opening Hours and department store,

Business hours are normally 8am hypermarkets are often located
to 6pm on weekdays and 8am on main roads and the outskirts
to 1pm on Saturdays. In large of towns. Apart from the
cities, tourist areas, and resorts, ubiquitous local chain, Extra,
hours are more flexible. Stores in foreign names such as Wal-Mart
central areas stay open until 7 or and Carrefour also have a
8pm on weekdays and 4pm on formidable presence in Brazil.
Saturdays. Shopping centers In resorts, smaller shopping
are open 10am to 10pm from centers sell souvenirs and
Monday to Saturday. In resorts fashionable items. Department
and tourist areas, even small stores such as C&A and Lojas
stores are open daily until Interior of an upmarket clothing store in Americanas have found their
midnight in the high season. Jardins, São Paulo way into shopping centers,
although they exist more
Shopping Centers & prominently as street shops in
How to Pay Hypermarkets the large city centers.
Major credit cards are accepted More convenient than street
in most stores in large cities and stores and offering much
resorts, though there may be a more than shopping alone, Markets &
minimum spend value (about shopping centers have multi- Camelódromos
R$50). International debit cards plied in the last few years. Fast- Almost every medium-size city
are commonly accepted even food chains and restaurants, in Brazil has its own special
for small amounts. US dollars are department stores and bou- market, some located in
sometimes accepted in tourist tiques, clothes repair, cobblers, beautiful historical buildings.
areas, but in small towns it is and other services can all now Lively and picturesque, these
best to pay in cash using the be found within one complex. markets sell an array of fresh
real (see p415). A combination of supermarket products from meat and fish
Ver o Peso, Belém’s picturesque waterfront mercado (market)

SHOPPING IN BRAZIL 399
to fruit and cheese. Authentic in Belém and the Ilha de Marajó.

regional food, typical sweets, Delicate lacework is found in
and crafts can also be found all northeastern states, while
here. Ver o Peso market in Belém Pernambuco and Bahia are
(see p272) and public markets in famed for their fine ceramics.
Olinda (Pernambuco), Manaus Woven items, hand-crafted
(Rua dos Bares), and Porto furniture, and Arraiolo tapestry
Alegre (Rio Grande do Sul) are are popular in Minas Gerais.
good examples. In the south, Santa Catarina’s
Everywhere in Brazil, street crystalware is exceptional. In the
traders or camelôs sell goods on state of Rio Grande do Sul, it is
improvised stands, or at places worth looking for good-quality
called camelódromos. A wide leather as well as woolen items
range of items, from clothes in Gramado and Caxias do Sul.
to electronics of fairly decent
quality, are sold at reasonably Salesman displaying gems, Howard Stern
reduced prices. Gems Jewelers, Ipanema
It is possible for shoppers to Brazil has 60 percent of the
bargain at open-air markets. world’s gem reserves. It is the Food & Drink
Vendors will often start at world’s largest exporter of Brazil is known for its rich
double the price of products, rough-cut gems and the sixth- variety of conserves, dried
but with a little skill and some largest exporter of worked fruits, and cakes (see pp384–5).
charm on the part of the buyer, gems. The variety and quantity Another favorite is fruit – figs,
this can be reduced. Be on of precious stones are citron ciders, pineapples,
guard in crowded street spectacular. Amethyst, citrine, and oranges – crystallized in
markets, as pickpockets are not diamond, emerald, opal, and compôte. These delicacies
uncommon. Be discreet when royal topaz are just a few of the can be bought at public
taking out money to pay. gems that Brazil is famous for. markets, craft centers, and
Rough and worked pieces can confectioners’ shops, found
be bought in the cities of Ouro everywhere in Brazil.
Preto (Minas Gerais), Cuiabá An immensely popular
(Mato Grosso), Salvador and beverage, cachaça (sugar-cane
Chapada Diamantina (Bahia), liquor) is produced all over the
and Porto Alegre. Designed country and locally distilled
jewelry can also be found in (see p385). The best cachaça
these places, as well as in São comes from Minas Gerais,
Paulo and Rio de Janeiro. Rio de Janeiro, Bahia,
Although gems are largely Pernambuco, and Ceará. It can
sold in open-air markets, it is also be bought at craft centers,
best to buy them at stores local bars, and in hypermarkets
offering origin warranty cer- in the larger cities.
Traditional musical instruments and masks tificates, which gives the weight Excellent coffee and gourmet
for sale in Bahia (in carats), quality, origin, and – blends are easily available in all
in the case of ready-made big cities in Brazil. Look out for
Art & Crafts jewelry – the characteristics of the ABIC seal on the packets, as
Every region in Brazil has its any precious metal used. this certifies the coffee quality.
own distinctive handicrafts.
The use of specific raw materials
makes every piece of work
unique. The best way to buy
these pieces is to go directly to
the ateliers. Tourist information
offices can provide the
addresses. Craft centers, where
artists can be seen at work,
offer lower prices than the
upmarket souvenir shops.
Typical Amazonian crafts
include indigenous masks,
jewelry, plume helmets,
basketwork, and bows and
arrows in Manaus, Belém, and
Santarém. Attractive replicas
of Marajoara pottery are sold Cachaça emporium in Paraty, with a large array of different types for sale
ENTERTAINMENT IN BRAZIL
Entertainment in Brazil varies according to Brazilians. In a country known for the
the region and the city, but one thing is richness of its rhythms, there are venues
certain – Brazilians love going to bars, cafés, catering to all kinds of music and dancing,
or botecos (a kind of bar with snacks and an from forró, samba, and axé to techno and
old-fashioned atmosphere) to meet with hiphop. Outdoor activities, such as soccer
friends and drink cold beer. This usually and volleyball, are national pastimes. Water
happens before and after other activities parks, beaches, and public gardens are also
such as watching movies, plays, and shows. good places to enjoy the warm weather
Dancing is another popular activity with and outdoor activities.
Information & Booking variety of events, such as plays, in Nova Jerusalém (see p227)
Most Brazilian shows, such as dance, and art exhibitions, in the state of Pernambuco.
plays and operas, do not run for performed by professional or Another big performance
very long and tickets must be amateur companies. takes place every January
booked quickly. Rio and São in São Vicente (see p173),
Paulo have specific magazines retelling the story of the
with a good listing of events Performing Arts foundation of the town.
and entertainment (see p99 & Theater and dance shows are Musical shows are as prolific
p157). In most other Brazilian popular in bigger cities in Brazil, in Brazil. They take place at
cities, local newspapers are the where the theaters feature venues ranging from bars and
best way to find out what’s on. regular shows. At some resorts, theaters to sophisticated
They usually come with special dance or musical performances cultural centers. During music
sections or supplements on take place during the high festivals, concerts are held in
Fridays or on weekends season, or during specific open-air areas, such as squares,
showing cinema, theater, and summer or winter festivals. public parks, or beaches.
other entertainment listings. Most plays run only for a The really big and famous acts,
Only the most active theaters season. There is a fair amount which can be costly, usually
and concert houses provide of traditional and experimental perform in the stadia and
listings on the Internet. In some theater, many dance require advance booking
big cities, shows can also be performances, and chamber of tickets.
booked via Ticketmaster using and classical music recitals to
Visa, MasterCard, and American attend. Some performances
Express, for a small additional have become annual traditions, Cinema
service fee. Hotel concierges such as The Passion of Christ In larger cities, modern
can often be helpful and play staged during Passion multiplex cinemas, most of
informative when it comes to Week at an open-air theater which are located in shopping
finding out what shows are on
and booking them as well.
Discount Tickets &

Free Events
In general, students and seniors
(over 60) get a 50 percent
discount for most events. The
conditions for students vary
from state to state. Students
must usually show their
university identity card or proof
of enrollment. There are many
free events at museums and
cultural centers, but as they
become crowded quickly,
arriving early is wise.
Almost every city has one or
more cultural centers. Supported
by the government or by private
companies, they often offer
cheap tickets or free access to a A view of the private boxes in the Teatro Amazonas, Manaus (see pp286–7)
E N T E R TA I N M E N T I N B R A Z I L 401
Inside Rio City’s world-famous soccer stadium, Estádio Maracanã (see p88)
centers, mainly feature recent and buzzing with activity sell tickets on the Internet.
Hollywood and European as through the week, and There are some websites that
well as good Brazilian films. especially on weekends. Cities sell tickets online, provided
There are also a few good without beaches generally this is done well in advance.
cineclubs, especially in Rio and make do with tables and chairs Most travel agencies and hotel
São Paulo, that screen feature- spread over the sidewalks with concierges are able to assist
and short-film festivals, often impromptu cafés sprouting up with the finding and buying
screening films with English outside restaurants. of soccer tickets.
subtitles. There are three main
cinema chains operating in
Brazil – United Cinemas Soccer Matches Gardens & Theme Parks
International (UCI), Cinemark, Soccer is a national passion – Public gardens and parks are
and the Brazilian Playarte. They across Brazil there are 800 soccer always crowded on weekends.
offer facilities for disabled clubs, 13,000 amateur teams, Many of them offer jogging
people and sell tickets in and 300 stadia, including Rio tracks, roller-skating rinks, sports
advance via the Internet or at City’s Estádio Maracanã (see p88), courts for playing soccer,
the box office. which hosted the 2014 World volleyball, basketball, tennis,
Cup final. There are many cham- and other games.
pionships through the year, Theme parks are becoming
Bars, Cafés & Botecos with matches on Wednesdays, increasingly popular every-
Nightlife is always exciting in Thursdays, and weekends. where in Brazil. Nowadays, most
large cities, resorts, and tourist It is not always easy to get of these parks include some
areas. Bars are open through a ticket for these games, and form of outdoor activity, such as
the week, usually after 6pm very often there are immense swimming pools, waterslides,
until 1 or 2am (some continue queues to purchase tickets. water tobogganing, horse-
until sunrise, especially those Clubs and stadia do not riding, and roller coasters.
on the beaches); some are open
24 hours. Most cities offer a
wide variety of bars to visit –
dance bars, bars with live music,
and in the bigger cities, gay
and lesbian bars. Botecos –
traditionally carioca bars known
for their simplicity and good
snacks – have now been
adopted by many cities and
have increased in popularity
and sophistication.
Happy hour is an institution
in many of the larger cities. It
begins at 6pm and extends until
9 or 10pm, after which many
people carry on at all-night bars.
Bars and kiosks on and near
the beaches are often crowded Live music in the popular Carioca da Gema, Lapa district, Rio de Janeiro
SPECIALIZED HOLIDAYS &

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
The climate and great variety of landscapes climbing peaks in spectacular settings.
– mountains, flatlands, waterfalls, and However, the infrastructure varies from
forests – make Brazil an outstanding region to region. It is best to get in touch
outdoor destination. This ecological with reputed tour operators licensed by
paradise offers great opportunities to Embratur, a government tourism agency.
observe its fascinating flora and fauna, or to Other interesting activities may involve
indulge in adventure sports that allow close learning to dance to the beautiful rhythms
contact with the environment. Visitors can of forró and samba, performing the
choose from a range of thrilling activities legendary capoeira, or even joining a
such as rappeling down cliffs, canyoning, or game of soccer.
Ecotourism areas, and scenic waterfalls. Ubatuba. A typical safari can be

Brazil’s rich and varied National parks such as Serra experienced at Jalapão State
ecosystem has much to offer, dos Órgãos (see p119), Parque Park (see p314–15). The travel
and ecotourism is becoming Nacional do Itatiaia (see p115), agency Korubo Expedições
a popular form of tourism. and Aparados da Serra (see uses a truck with hatches for
Visitors can capture on film p362), and natural reserves professional photo equipment.
the splendor of the Amazon such as Ilha do Cardoso (see
rainforest near Manaus, or p175) offer a broad range of
enjoy excursions into the forest biodiversity. Look for Fazenda
organized by jungle lodges. Palomas or contact Fellini
Similar ecotours can also be Turismo for special rural tours
undertaken from Belém or in Rio Grande do Sul.
Santarém (Pará). Amazon
Mystery Tours is based in
Manaus; in Belém contact Bird-Watching & Safaris
Amazon Star. Pantanal Home to almost a fifth of the
Explorer offers tours and world’s bird population, Brazil
expeditions into the vast offers a surfeit of bird-watching
wilderness of Pantanal, Nobres, excursions. Birding Brasil
and Chapada dos Guimarães Turismo, based in Manaus,
from Cuiabá. provides good deals. Iara Spectacular golden sand dunes
Serra da Capivara (see pp252– Turismo conducts special in Jalapão
3) and Sete Cidades parks (Piauí) programs. Estação Ecológica
(see p253) offer amazing rock Santa Lúcia, run by renowned Off-Road Driving
formations, while Chapada naturalist Augusto Ruschi, Many beautiful sites in Brazil
Diamantina in Bahia (see pp208– organizes regular bird-watching. are accessible only by off-road
9) and Chapada dos Veadeiros Ornithologist Edson Endrigo vehicles. The Transpantaneira
(see pp316–17) in Goiás have organizes tours to Parque road (Pantanal) and the Estrada
good trekking trails, forested Nacional Itatiaia (see p115) and Park road are attractions in
themselves, allowing
passengers to leisurely
observe the flora and
fauna. The Transpant-
aneira extends 93 miles
(149 km) from Poconé
to Porto Jofre in Mato
Grosso and has 126
wooden bridges to
cross. Many inns and
farms receive visitors
along this road.
Stretching 73 miles
(117 km), the Estrada
Park road links Corumbá
The rare and striking scarlet ibises that inhabit the Ilha de Marajó (see p274) to Buraco das Piranhas
S P E C I A L I Z E D H O L I D AY S & O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S 403
(Piranha’s Hole) in the state of

Mato Grosso do Sul. Another
enjoyable road experience is
to cross Jalapão State Park, a
wonderful contrast of golden
dunes and gushing waterfalls.
Korubo Expedições offers
week-long packages leaving
from Palmas. The Northeast
region’s off-road adventure
Rota das Dunas (Dunes Route)
runs from Fortaleza (Ceará) to
São Luís (Maranhão), passing
through Jericoacoara Beach and
Delta do Parnaíba (a group of Ecotourism by bicycle, Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses
80 islands) and Parque Nacional
dos Lençóis Maranhenses lakes, and stunning landscape. Ubatuba and Guarujá (São
(see pp254–5). For bookings These and other options in Paulo) are easier, while Praia
contact Jeri Off-Road. the state can be found at Joaquinas and other beaches
Caminhos do Sertão and in Florianópolis offer more
Ecos da Serra. Cycling tours challenging water-sports
Cycling & Biking near the Parque Nacional activities (see pp350–51).
Cycling and mountain biking Aparados da Serra covering the The country has many scuba-
have been attracting increasing cities of Gramado, Canela, and diving options. PDIC Brasil
numbers of enthusiasts to the Vale dos Vinhedos (see p359) (Professional Diving Instructor’s
Brazil. Many tour operators rent are organized by Casa da Corporation) is a good place to
bikes, and provide necessary Montanha Adventures. contact. Rio de Janeiro state,
equipment, food, and Accommodation can be Cabo Frio, Angra dos Reis, Paraty,
accommodation. Trancoso found at the Parador Casa da and Ilhabela in São Paulo are
(Bahia) is the starting point of Montanha, a kind of luxurious outstanding places for diving
the Discovery Route – a crossing camping site. and exploring shipwrecks.
that passes through wonderful Beaches in the Northeast are
beaches. Contact Sampa Bikers a snorkeler’s paradise.
for details. Another popular Water Sports Among the sail sports, kitesurf
mountain-biking destination Vast stretches of beach, and an reigns in Ceará’s beaches and
in Bahia is the Chapada abundance of rivers, lakes, and lakes near Jericoacoara. Kite
Diamantina. Terra Chapada waterfalls make water sports Club Preá provides facilities,
Expedições organizes multiday widely available and accessible in tours, and safaris for inter-
tours through the park. Brazil. Fernando de Noronha mediate to advanced kiters
Mountain biking is an (Pernambuco) and Itacaré in Preá, a small fishing village
interesting way to discover the (Bahia) are hot destinations for east of Jericoacoara.
attractions of Florianópolis water sports such as snorkeling, Rafting and canoeing
(Santa Catarina). There are 30 surfing, and windsurfing. Búzios enthusiasts should head to
trails that traverse its 42 beaches, and Rio (Rio de Janeiro), and Brotas and Socorro, in São Paulo;
Três Rios, in Rio de Janeiro;
Domingos Martins, in Espírito
Santo; Jaguariaíva and Tibagi, in
Paraná; Apiúna, in Santa Catarina;
and Rio Cristlino, in the Amazon
rainforest of Mato Grosso.
Cascading and canyoning
can be challenging, but highly
enjoyable, in the waterfalls of
Chapada dos Veadeiros in Goiás,
and in the Cipó mountains in
Minas Gerais where visitors can
get in touch with ABETA
(Brazilian Adventure Travel
Trade Association).
For those who enjoy fishing,
Clube de Pesca Cananéia helps
organize expeditions. This club
also makes arrangements for
Canoeing on the Rio Cristalino near Cristalino Jungle Lodge (see p323) the obligatory fishing license.
Language & Culture

Almost 70 universities in the
country offer Portuguese classes
to foreign students. Many of
these courses are now open to
visitors. Some language schools
also offer flexible Portuguese
courses, which can stretch from
one week to many months.
These lessons may include
lectures on Brazilian culture and
guided tours of museums and
galleries. Some of them prepare
for the Portuguese Proficiency
Certificate (CELPE-Bras), the Couples dancing the forró on a festive occasion
Portuguese-language
qualification granted by the workshops on dancing and programs vary from a week
Ministério da Educação. singing to Brazilian rhythms, to several months and may
Excellence Idiomas, Idiomas which may be tied in with include friendly games and
to Go, and Diálogo Language Portuguese-language classes. tournaments for players
School are some of the better These lessons are a good way between 6 and 18 years of age.
private-school options. to familiarize oneself with the Good options are Central de
most representative artists of Intercambio in São Paulo City
Brazilian popular music. Also, and Cruzeiro Esporte Clube in
Music & Dance keep your ears open for reggae Belo Horizonte (Minas Gerais).
The sensuous dance forms of beats on the streets throughout
Brazil have evoked a lot of the Northeast.
interest worldwide. With their Capoeira Classes
natural hospitality Brazilians are The amalgam of acrobatic
easily motivated to teach dance Soccer movements, rhythm, music, and
steps at bars, dance houses, Soccer was introduced into song make capoeira (see p203) a
parties, and local performances. Brazil by a Scottish railway big draw. Almost every city has
But you can also arrange to take engineer in the 1890s and grew an academy. Zebra & Pepi take
professional dancing classes in to become the nation’s favorite lessons on the Itacaré beaches.
the cities. In Rio de Janeiro, it sport. It is possible to arrange In Salvador, Filhos de Bimba
is possible to learn with the day and residential soccer is one of the best and most
famous dancer Carlinhos de camps, as well as team and famous capoeira schools. With
Jesus at Casa de Dança. Diálogo individual training sessions or several branches outside Brazil,
Language School conducts family packages. The coaching it strives to keep alive the
regional spirit of capoeira.
Volunteer Programs
Volunteers can work in
non-profit organizations
contributing in the fields
of education, child welfare,
health, ecology, and the
environment. This is a good
way of getting to know local
people, and at the same time
making a social contribution.
These programs are open to
adults of any age, and may
include homestay with a
Brazilian family. The program
duration commonly varies
from two to ten months.
To enroll contact Diálogo
Language School, World
Study, AFS Intercultura Brasil,
or Soul Brasileiro. For all such
programs, a basic knowledge
A rigorous soccer training session, Ipanema beach, Rio de Janeiro City of Portuguese is required.
S P E C I A L I Z E D H O L I D AY S & O U T D O O R A C T I V I T I E S 405
DIRECTORY
Ecotourism Korubo Expedições Kite Club Preá Cruzeiro Esporte
Rua Traipu 260, São Paulo. Preá Villa, Jericoacoara, Clube
Amazon Mystery Tel (11) 4063 1502. Ceará. Av Otacílio Negrão
Tours ∑ jalapao.com Tel (88) 3669 2359. de Lima 7100,
Rua 2, Casa 23 Parque ∑ kiteclub prea.com Bairro Bandeirante,
Tropical. Off-Road Driving
PDIC Brasil Belo Horizonte.
Tel (92) 9 8430 7763.
∑ amazon-outdoor.
Jeri Off-Road (Professional Diving ∑ cruzeiro.com.br
com Rua Principal 208. Instructors
Jericoacoara, Ceará.
Corporation) Capoeira Classes
Amazon Star Tel (88) 3669 2268.
Av Presidente Vargas 446, Filhos de Bimba
Rua Henrique Gurjão 236, ∑ jeri.tur.br
Belem, Pará. Grupo 1006, Rio de Rua Gregório de Mattos 51,
Tel (91) 3212 6244. Cycling & Biking Janeiro.
Pelourinho, Salvador, Bahia.
∑ amazonstar.com.br Tel (21) 2263 8068.
Tel (71) 3322 5082.
Caminhos do Sertão ∑ pdic.com.br
Fazenda Palomas Rua Caminho do Zebra & Pepi
BR-158 Santana do Arvoredo 169, Rio Language & Rua Pedro Longo 385,
Livramento, Rio Grande Vermelho, Florianópolis, Culture Pituba, Itacaré, Bahia.
do Sul. Santa Catarina.
Tel (73) 3251 2354.
Tel (55) 3505 6417. Tel (48) 3234 9527. Diálogo Language
∑ fazendapalomas. ∑ caminhosdosertao. School Volunteer
com com.br Rua João Ponde 240,
Programs
Fellini Turismo Casa da Montanha Barra, Salvador, Bahia.
Rua Gen Bento Martins, Adventures Tel (71) 3264 0053. AFS Intercultura
24 Conj. 401, Porto Alegre, Av Borges Medeiros 3116, ∑ dialogo-brazilstudy. Brasil
Rio Grande do Sul. Gramado. com Travessa do Ouvidor 50,
Tel (51) 3216 6300. Tel (54) 3504 5302. Rio de Janeiro.
Excellence Idiomas
∑ paradorcasa Tel (21) 3724 4464.
Pantanal Explorer Rua Barata Ribeiro 391,
damontanha.com.br ∑ afs.org.br
Av Governador Ponce de Copacabana.
Arruda 670, Varzea Ecos da Serra Tel (21) 2225 7430. Soul Brasileiro
Grande, Mato Grosso. Rua Presidente Lincoln 76. ∑ excellenceidiomas. São Clemente 185 / 303
Tel (65) 3682 2800. Lages, Santa Catarina. com.br
Tel (49) 9972 9672. Rio de Janeiro.
∑ pantanalexplorer.
∑ ecosdaserra.com.br Idiomas to Go Tel (21) 2538 9409.
com.br
Al Jauaperi 1020, ∑ soulbrasileiro.
Sampa Bikers
Bird-Watching São Paulo. com.br
Rua Baluarte 672,
& Safaris São Paulo. Tel (11) 5052 4802. World Study
Tel (11) 5517 7733. ∑ idiomastogo. com.br
Av do Contorno 4480,
Birding Brasil
∑ sampabikers.com.br Ministério da Sala 1509, Belo Horizonte,
Turismo
Conjunto Acariquara 214, Terra Chapada Educação Minas Gerias.
Manaus, Amazonas. Expedições Esplanada dos Ministérios, Tel (31) 3224 4293.
∑ birdingbraziltours. Tel (75) 3334 1428. Bloco L, Sala 227, ∑ worldstudy.com.br
com ∑ terrachapada.com.br Brasília.
Tel (0800) 616161.
Edson Endrigo Water Sports ∑ mec.gov.br/sesu
Rua Antonio Aggio
1296/11, São Paulo. ABETA (Brazilian
Adventure Travel Music & Dance
Tel (11) 3742 8374.
∑ avesfoto.com.br Trade Association) Casa de Dança
Rua Rio Grande do Norte Rua Álvaro Ramos 11,
Estação Ecológica 1560, Sala 401, Belo
Santa Lúcia Botafogo, Rio de Janeiro.
Horizonte, Minas Gerais.
Av José Ruschi 4, Tel (21) 2541 6186.
Tel (31) 3261 5707.
Museu Mello Leitão, ∑ carlinhosdejesus.
∑ abeta.com.br
Santa Teresa, Espírito com.br
Santo. Clube de Pesca
Tel (27) 3259 1182. Cananéia Soccer
Rua João Maciel, Porto
Iara Turismo Cubatão, Cananéia, Central de
Av Gov José Maicher 815, São Paulo. Intercambio
Belém, Pará. Tel (13) 3851 6117. Av Paulista 726, Loja 7,
Tel (91) 4006 3850. ∑ pescacananeia. São Paulo.
∑ iaraturismo.com.br com.br Tel (11) 3262 4012.
SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 408–417

Travel Information 418–427
408 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Tourism is one of the fastest growing destinations are very well set up to receive
industries in Brazil, and the country has international visitors. English and Spanish
been investing heavily in new airports, are generally spoken by those who work
hotels, and other facilities designed to make in the tourism industry. However, very few
it more attractive to visitors. Brazil offers a other Brazilians speak English. Fortunately,
variety of travel experiences for all ages and the friendliness and outgoing nature of
tastes. Its sheer size makes air travel almost the people more than makes up for these
a necessity for those interested in exploring challenges and Brazilians overall are very
beyond just one region. All major tourist helpful in assisting foreigners.
When to Go securing luggage to bus seats.

High season in Brazil runs from For a jungle trip, a hammock
Christmas to Carnaval (held in is a good idea.
February or early March). Many
musical and cultural events
take place in these months. Visas & Passports
Although not as busy, a second All travelers to Brazil must
peak season is during July and have a valid passport. Holders
August when schools and of European Union or New
universities have their winter Zealand passports do not Map of Canoa Quebrada in one of its streets
break and many Europeans and require a visa. Those with to assist tourists
North Americans visit on their US, Canadian, or Australian
summer holidays. The best passports need to apply for a Tourist Information
times of year for lower prices visa at the Brazilian embassy or All international and domestic
and fewer travelers are the low consulate in their country of airports in Brazil have tourist
seasons from March to May and residence. Always check the information booths that offer
September to November. latest entry requirements with maps, brochures, and general
the Brazilian embassy in your information. These are usually
country before leaving. run by either the state or city’s
What to Take Upon arrival, visitors tourist office. The
Dress standards in Brazil seem receive a 90-day entry Brazilian Ministry of
largely a matter of personal stamp, which can be Tourism’s website is a
taste. A sarong or sheet sleeping extended for another useful source of
bag is invaluable for use as a 90 days by the Polícia information. Brazil’s
towel, a bedsheet, or beach Federal, up to a maxi- embassies or larger
towel. Bring a first-aid kit, rain- mum of 180 days per consulates have tourist
coat, sun hat, penknife, year. (Some nationalities sections, where visitors
flashlight, wax earplugs, insect are unable to extend can get information
repellent, eye mask for sleeping beyond 90 days; check Polícia brochures and advice.
on buses, and a chain for prior to traveling if this is Federal Popular destinations such
relevant to you.) Visitors badge as Rio and Salvador have
must also fill out an entry helpful tourist offices.
card to be kept with their
passport at all times. It must be
surrendered on leaving Brazil. Language
Failure to produce this slip of The language of Brazil is
paper may lead to a fine, and Portuguese, but it is quite
will certainly result in a hassle. different in style and
The 90 days are added on the pronunciation from the
day of renewal, so request the Portuguese spoken in Portugal.
extension close to the expiry The language has quite a few
date. Keep in mind that an similarities with Spanish. In
expired visa cannot be extended. major tourist areas, the staff will
The Polícia Federal may ask to speak some English and/or
see an outbound ticket and Spanish. However, in general,
proof of sufficient funds for the English is not widely spoken
remainder of your stay. Those and often Brazilians will only
A local travel agency with Internet facilities, who outstay their visa term will have a basic intermediate
Morro de São Paulo be fined upon departure. knowledge of the language.
A small airplane flies over Parque Nacional dos Lençóis Maranhenses
P R A C T I C A L I N F O R M AT I O N 409
Religion The metro system in Rio has

Brazil is often called “the largest electronic wheelchair elevators,
Catholic country on earth,” but these are not always
although, to be accurate, one operational. For short distances,
should probably call it the buses are not the best option
“largest and least devout” of for disabled travelers to get
Catholic nations. Many Brazilians around. Taxis are better, and
consider themselves culturally plentiful in most cities. For long
Catholic, without being regular distances, however, buses are
churchgoers. In recent years, generally comfortable, with
the influence of the Church has special services offering fully
greatly diminished. Traditional reclining seats. Wheelchairs are
Afro-Brazilian religions are available at all main airports.
still followed, especially in the
North and Northeast, with Local tour guide with a group of tourists
the religious ceremonies in Cachoeira Traveling with Children
and practices gaining more Those traveling with small
acceptance over the years. Etiquette children will find Brazilians
Brazilians are very friendly and very child-friendly and
outgoing, even when meeting accommodating. There are
Time someone for the first time. When virtually no places that do not
Brazil has four time zones. introduced, men will greet each welcome children. Brazilians
Most of the country is three other with a handshake and a themselves think nothing of
hours behind GMT (known as friendly slap on the shoulder. bringing their children to
the Brasília Time Zone). Both Good friends usually embrace. restaurants, theaters, cafés,
Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, When introduced to a woman, concerts, or other events.
as well as all of Southern and it is customary to greet her with
Northeast Brazil and Pará and a handshake and a kiss on the
Amapá states are three hours cheek (one kiss in São Paulo and Public toilets
behind GMT. The island group the South, two kisses in Rio, the Public toilets are not that hard
of Fernando de Noronha is two North, and Northeast). When to find in Brazil, but vary greatly
hours behind GMT. The states introduced to a group of people, in cleanliness. Clean toilets can
of Mato Grosso, Mato Grosso everybody has to kiss or shake usually be found in hotel
do Sul, Amazônia, Rondônia, hands with everybody else. lobbies, shopping centers, and
and Roraima are four hours in public locations such as bus
behind GMT. The state of Acre, stations, parks, or beaches.
in the far western corner, is five Women Travelers A fee is sometimes charged.
hours behind GMT. During A woman alone, especially at Note that toilet paper is
daylight saving hours it gets night, will attract some form sometimes dispensed from a
a little bit more complicated. of attention. It usually depends central dispenser outside the
The southern states set their on where you are. Steer clear stalls. It is a good idea to carry
clocks back an hour, but the of the area around bus stations, a roll of toilet paper.
states in the North and since it is likely to be a red-light
Northeast do not. area at night. The transport Directory
terminals themselves, though,
are usually policed and fairly Visas & Passports
Electricity safe at all hours.
There is no uniform voltage Polícia Federal
across Brazil. Some states are Aeroporto Internacional Antônio
110 volts, others 220 volts. Rio Special needs Carlos Jobim, Terminal 1,
de Janeiro and São Paulo are Travelers with mobility Rio de Janeiro.
both 110 volts. Brasília is problems will find Brazil a
Tel (21) 3398 3198.
220 volts. Hotels will very challenging country.
often have plugs for Although it is relatively ∑ dpf.gov.br
both voltages and are easy to find wheelchair-
good at labeling the accessible hotels and Tourist Information
outlets. Adaptors for restaurants, very few
laptops and cell phone public places are Brazilian Ministry
chargers can normally accessible or wheelchair- of Tourism
handle the full range of friendly. Older buildings ∑ braziltour.com
voltage, but it is always may still lack elevators or
better to check the ramps, and streets and US State Department
specifications of your Wheelchair parking sidewalks are often ∑ travel.state.gov
equipment to be sure. sign uneven or broken.
410 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Health & Medical Matters prevent it. It is much more

common in the summer
Brazil has a free national public health-care system. Even months, from December to
foreign tourists will receive medical attention in any of the March. Symptoms include
public hospitals, should they require it. Unfortunately, the high fever, joint pain, and
headaches (especially behind
public health system is overloaded and inadequately funded,
the eyes). The illness usually
especially in the rural areas of Brazil. Queues can be long and runs its course in a week or
tedious, and facilities are not always up to European or North 10 days, but a check-up is
American standards. However, Brazil’s private hospitals and recommended to avoid any
clinics, though not free, offer world-class medical facilities. complications.
A good travel insurance policy will give access to these Cholera occasionally occurs
in remote areas, but is mostly
private facilities in an emergency, but remember to read the preventable by taking proper
fine print carefully. Overall, hygiene standards in Brazil are hygiene precautions such as
high. Normal care is required with food and drink, and with drinking filtered water and
preventive vaccinations, particularly when visiting the most washing and peeling fruit
remote parts of the country. and vegetables. The most
important precaution is to
wash hands frequently.
Pharmacies
For minor ailments, travelers
can turn to Brazil’s farmácias,
or pharmacies. These can be
found everywhere, are always
well supplied, and are often
open late. Every city will have
at least one that is open 24
hours. Many medications that
in other countries are available
A fire brigade ambulance parked outside a fire control office only by prescription can be
bought over the counter in
Vaccinations Tropical diseases Brazil. Take care to remember
It is a good idea to consult a Visitors to Brazil’s major tourist the generic name of a
travel clinic or family doctor destinations rarely have to medication taken regularly.
for an International Certificate worry about tropical diseases. A trained pharmacist is
of Vaccinations, an up-to- The one tropical disease that normally on hand to
date list of the required vaccina- can occur anywhere in the recommend the appropriate
tions. The most commonly country, even in urban areas, medication for common
recommended are a DTP is dengue fever. It is a viral ailments such as diarrhea,
(diphtheria, tetanus, and polio) infection that prevails through- allergies, rashes, or infections.
booster, as well as vaccinations out South America. The disease It is possible to get injections
for typhoid and hepatitis A. is transmitted by mosquitoes, and free medical advice in
A yellow fever vaccination is and there is no vaccine to pharmacies all over Brazil.
also required. This disease is
endemic to many parts of South
America, including Brazil.
Officially, all visitors to Brazil are
required to show proof of
yellow fever vaccination.
Although the requirement is
not regularly enforced for
visitors coming from North
America or Europe, it is
compulsory for those from
other countries in South
America. Entry can be denied
upon failure to show proof of
vaccination. Anti-malarial
tablets may be advisable for
those visiting some of the more
remote parts of the Amazon. A well-stocked pharmacy in São Paulo
Vacationers relaxing under umbrellas on the beach

Private Hospitals food and drink are high, stores sell a variety of national
Brazil does not offer the best especially in major tourist areas. and international sunscreen
medical facilities in its public Water is usually filtered or brands. Those sold on the beach
hospitals. Foreign visitors, in bottled and ice cubes are made itself, or in street markets, are
particular, may find it difficult from filtered water. Even in the best avoided. The contents may
getting a bed, unless for an most remote parts, mineral either be fake, or have been
infectious disease. In most water is easily available. As long kept in storage for a long time,
public hospitals, the level of as fruit, vegetables, and meat which causes the active
health care will not match are handled properly, they can ingredients to deteriorate.
European or US standards. be eaten safely.
Private hospitals, however, Directory
offer excellent facilities. Though
good medical care may be rare Emergency Numbers
to find in rural areas, in the Ambulance
larger cities you will never be far Tel 192.
from a decent private hospital.
In many big cities, local tourist Private Hospitals
offices and some good hotels
can provide a list of doctors Rio de Janeiro
Hospital Samaritano, Rua
who can speak English, French,
Bambina 98, Botafogo.
and German.
Tel (21) 2537 9722.
For medical emergencies in a ∑ hsamaritano.com.br
remote area, an air ambulance
service offers a pick-up within Copa d’Or, Rua Figueiredo de
24 hours of calling. However, it Magalhães 875, Copacabana.
is advisable to contact the travel A local drink seller on a Rio de Map 3 D1.
insurance company before Janeiro beach Tel (21) 2545 3600.
∑ rededor.com.br/copador
requesting this service.
Though fairly affordable by Sun protection Hospital Ipanema, Rua Antônio
international standards, private Visitors from the Northern Parreiras 67, Ipanema.
treatment in Brazil may turn out Hemisphere should take Map 2 C4.
to be expensive. Many doctors extra care with Brazil’s intense Tel (21) 3111 2303.
and hospitals do not accept tropical sun, especially for the São Paulo
travel-health insurance, and first few days in the country. Hospital Albert Einstein, Av Albert
insist on payment in cash. Brazil basks in almost year- Einstein 627–701, Morumbi.
round sunshine, making Tel (11) 3747 1233. For
adequate sun protection ambulance: (11) 3747 0200.
Health precautions absolutely crucial. Avoid ∑ einstein.br
A visit to Brazil, by and large, exposure between 11am and Hospital Sírio-Libânes, Rua Dona
does not require special health 3pm and apply sunscreen to all Adma Jafet 91, Bela Vista.
precautions. Impure water and exposed parts of the body. Wear Map 4 F2.
contaminated food are usually sunblock (minimum SPF 30) Tel (11) 3155 0200.
the reasons for most diseases. and limit tanning to only a few ∑ hospitalsiriolibanes.org.br
However, hygiene standards of hours. Pharmacies and grocery
412 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Safety for Travelers

Brazil is known to have a higher crime rate than anywhere
in North America and Europe. However, in reality, the kind
of violence that affects travelers is mostly limited to the
bigger cities, and is usually restricted to crimes that target
valuables such as cameras, credit cards, cell phones, or
cash. Such assaults are rare in the countryside and smaller
towns. While some parts of Brazil can truly be regarded
as violent and dangerous, travelers can be assured of
personal security by using common sense and observing
some very basic precautions.
A Guarda Municipal policewoman
a few small bills patrolling on a bicycle, Rio City
handy in a pocket so
that when making Police
small purchases, the Brazil has several different
wallet doesn’t have types of police that travelers
to be pulled out in are likely to encounter. Known
a busy area. Public to be the most efficient by far,
transport is safe in the Polícia Federal (see p408)
the daytime, but in are responsible for passport
the evenings taxis are control at airports and border
a better option. If you crossings. Dressed in plain
get robbed, just hand clothes, they deal with visas
over your valuables, and their extensions.
as robbers are often Dressed in gray uniforms
armed with a gun or and caps, the Polícia Militar are
Local showing the way to visitors, Salvador a knife. Streets and responsible for public safety
public places can be and can be seen patrolling the
Personal safety unsafe at times. A very common streets, beaches, and highways.
The large cities, especially Rio de technique is to distract the These policemen often carry
Janeiro, São Paulo, and Salvador, victim by spraying something out “blitzes” (traffic checks)
are generally considered more on their shoulder. An along major streets or roads.
prone to violence than the rest accomplice may then offer These can appear a little
of Brazil. Statistically, crime rates to clean the mess, while the intimidating as the Polícia
in these cities are significantly thief will make off with your Militar come out in full gear,
higher than in cities in Europe belongings. The best and safest carrying automatic weapons.
or the US. However, much of the way is to politely turn down any If you are driving a car, slow
violent crime is confined to such offer. down, turn on the interior light,
poorer neighborhoods and It is always best to exercise and roll down the windows.
favelas in parts of the city where caution when someone A few cities with a strong
travelers should not venture on unknown offers a drink, or even tourist presence, such as Rio
their own without a tour guide. cigarettes. Instances of and Salvador, also have Polícia
The crime that visitors are most drugging, or spiked drinks are de Turismo, or tourist police,
likely to be susceptible to is not uncommon in Brazil. who offer assistance in case
theft or robbery. The most basic
precaution is not to carry
anything worth stealing and to
avoid empty beaches and nearly
empty streets after dark. Avoid
ostentatious behavior such as
walking around with expensive
equipment; instead keep it in
a plain bag.
When sightseeing, keep all
belongings in a bag that can be
placed in a money belt. Never
carry large amounts of cash.
Credit cards are widely accepted
and can be used for purchases
in most hotels and stores. Keep A brightly painted tourist police station in Olinda
of any difficulty. Unfortunately, Directory

many of them do not speak
English. A special Delegacia Police
do Turista (tourist department)
Guarda Municipal
is available for those who
∑ rio.rj.gov.br/web/gmrio
require further help or wish
to report a crime. Polícia Civil
The state-controlled Polícia Tel 197 or 147.
Civil handle local laws and
investigate more serious Polícia Militar
crimes. When there is no Tel 190.
tourist police post in the vicinity, Polícia de Turismo
thefts are reported to these
RIO DE JANEIRO
policemen. Rio City has an
Av Afrânio de Melo Franco 159,
unarmed guard force, Guarda
Municipal (Municipal Civil Polícia Militar booth in São Paulo, Leblon. Map 1 B4.
Guards), to complement state responsible for traffic checks Tel (21) 2332 2924.
police patrolling of parks SALVADOR
and beaches. (see p414). If you have lost or Praça São Francisco 14,
damaged your passport, it Pelourinho. Tel (71) 3322 1188.
is recommended that you SÃO PAULO
Reporting a crime contact your nearest consulate Av São Luíz 91, Centro. Map 1 B3.
If you have been the victim or embassy. Tel (11) 3214 0209.
of a crime, it can be reported
at the nearest police station Consulates
or tourist police office. This Identification
should be done within 24 hours It is mandatory in Brazil to Australia
of the crime. To obtain a report carry some form of photo Av Presidente Wilson 231, Centro,
of the incident or theft for identification. Often you will be Rio de Janeiro.
insurance purposes, insist that asked to show some form of ID Map 5 E5. Tel (21) 3824 4624.
you receive a copy of the when entering an office ∑ dfat.gov.au
boletim de ocorrência. There may building or government agency,
be nobody at the police station or sometimes even a museum Canada
who speaks English, so it may or library. To avoid carrying Av Atlântica 1130, 5th Floor,
be useful to request a hotel around a passport, keep a Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro.
employee or tour guide to photocopy, and carry some Map 3 F1. Tel (21) 2453 3004.
accompany you if you need other form of less valuable ID
Av Nações Unidas 12901, São
to file a report. Missing credit such as a student card, or a
Paulo. Tel (21) 2543 3004.
cards should be reported health card that has your
∑ brazil.gc.ca
to the relevant company picture, name, and date of birth.
Ireland
Alameda Joaquim Eugênio de
Lima 447, São Paulo. Map Off 4
F3. Tel (11) 3147 7788.
New Zealand
SHIS QI 09, Conjunto 16,
Casa 01, Brasília.
Tel (61) 3248 9900.
UK
Polícia Federal car Praia do Flamengo 284, Rio de
Janeiro. Tel (21) 2555 9600.
Rua Ferreira de Araújo 741,
Pinheiros, São Paulo.
Tel (11) 3094 2700.
USA
Av Presidente Wilson 147, Rio de
Janeiro. Map 5 E5.
Tel (21) 3823 2000.
Rua Henri Dunant 500, São Paulo.
Tel (11) 3250 5000.
Guarda Municipal car
414 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Banking & Local Currency Directory

Brazil provides a range of accessible banking facilities and Credit Cards
money exchange services. Except for the US dollar and euro, AmEx
foreign currencies are rarely accepted outside of major tourist Tel +1 336 393 1111.
regions. Exchange rates for cash transactions are usually not Diners Club Citibank
very good, and the best rates can be obtained on credit card Tel (0800) 4004 2484.
or caixa automática (automated teller machine) transactions.
MasterCard
Credit cards, widely accepted in most establishments, Tel (0800) 891 3294.
can be used to withdraw local currency (real), giving a
Visa
more favorable exchange rate, and are by far the most Tel (0800) 891 3680.
convenient. Traveler’s checks are not widely accepted and
can be difficult to cash. Banks
Banco do Brasil
Banking Hours Av Paulista 2163, São Paulo.
Map 4 E2. Tel (11) 4004 0001.
HSBC has a number of banks
Rua Joana Angélica 124,
that are open from 9am to 5pm
Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro.
on all weekdays. Most other
Map 2 A4. Tel (21) 3554 9700.
banks, including Banco do
∑ bb.com.br
Brasil, are also open on
weekdays, but only from HSBC
10am to 4pm. Hours for Av Paulista 949, São Paulo.
changing money or traveler’s Map 4 E2. Tel (11) 4004 4722.
checks are even more limited, Av Nossa Senhora de
usually falling between 11am Copacabana 583, Rio de Janeiro.
and 2pm. Automated teller Map 3 E2. Tel (21) 3816 8100.
machines (ATMs) have more ∑ hsbc.com.br
flexible hours but are not
always open 24 hours.
Automated teller machine (ATM) or be programmed to dispense
at a branch of Banco do Brasil only a small amount of money.
ATMs It is also good to plan ahead on
The easiest way of getting cash also give a cash advance on a weekends or statutory holidays
in big cities is by using ATMs credit card. Banco do Brasil, when machines sometimes run
(caixa automática), which are HSBC, Citibank, Bradesco, and out of cash. Keep in mind, too,
widely found and accept Banco 24 Horas have reliable that some small towns and
foreign cards. Check with your networks that work with islands do not have ATMs.
bank prior to traveling to Brazil international cards.
whether your ATM card can be Bank machines are often
used internationally for cash updated and adjusted so other Credit Cards
withdrawals and that you have banks may join the network. For Credit cards are widely accepted
the appropriate PIN (numero de safety reasons, bank machines in Brazil. The most commonly
identificao). In addition to ATM are not always open 24 hours. used cards are AmEx,
cards, most bank machines will ATMs may close at 8 or 10pm, MasterCard, and Visa. Diners
Club is less widely used. Credit
cards can be used in almost all
establishments. Street markets
and kiosks, of course, only take
cash. When you pay by credit
card the cashier will usually ask
“débito ou credito” (debit or
credit). It is important to state
“credito” as most international
credit cards do not work as
debit cards. Debit cards are also
widely accepted. Credit cards
with a PIN can also be used to
make cash withdrawals from
ATMs at banks. The service fee is
higher for using a credit card
Branch of Banco do Brasil with caixa automática (ATMs) instead of a regular ATM card.
It is a good idea to instruct checks, but the exchange is R$2 note is blue, featuring
your bank that you will be using always bad. American Express a sea turtle. The purple R$5
your card in Brazil, so as to avoid will cash AmEx traveler’s checks and the red R$10 have pictures
any transaction problems at a for free, but they only have of a heron and a macaw
later stage. offices in a few major cities in respectively. The yellow R$20
Brazil. It is more convenient to notes feature the endangered
use a credit card for major mico-leão dourado (golden
Traveler’s checks expenses incurred at hotels lion tamarin) monkey. The
Very few banks will cash and on excursions. brown R$50 notes come
traveler’s checks, and at with a picture of a jaguar.
those that do, there is a high fee R$100 bills, featuring the
and a long wait. The Banco do Currency endangered dusky grouper
Brasil, for example, charges a flat The currency of Brazil is the fish, are often impossible to
fee of US$20 per transaction. real (R$, plural reais). All bank break at small shops, so stock
Some hotels and some tour notes have a print of a Brazilian up on change at drugstores
operators will accept traveler’s animal on them. The smallest and grocery stores.
Banknotes
Brazilian reais bills come in denominations of
2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100. Brazilian bank notes
are bright, with each denomination coming in
a different color.
2 reais
5 reais
10 reais
20 reais
50 reais
100 reais
Coins
Coins come in the following denomination:
1, 5, 10, 25, 50 centavos and 1 real.
100 centavos make up 1 real.
5 centavos 10 centavos 25 centavos 50 centavos 1 real

416 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Communications & Media number. However, inquire about

roaming fees to avoid nasty
Brazil has an efficient and modern communication system. surprises on your phone bill. Due
Telecommunication systems are reasonably advanced and to the size of Brazil, most cell
cell phones are widely used, making it one of the world’s phone packages are relevant to
the city or state it is issued in, so
biggest networks, with more than 270 million registered you may still be charged roaming
phones. Postal services, including registered post and express fees even when using a Brazilian
mail, are quite reliable. Most hotels subscribe to a digital cell number – for example, using
or satellite television service with international channels. a Rio cell number in São Paulo.
Although there are no foreign-language Brazilian newspapers, Brazilians who regularly visit
different cities in Brazil often have
foreign magazines and some newspapers are available in all
cell numbers for each one.
major cities, mostly in the main airports, business districts, The main cell operators in
and tourist centers. Brazil are Claro (21), Oi (31), Tim
(41), and Vivo (15). It is always
largest telecommunications cheapest to use the código de
company) phone cards work seleção de prestadora (CSP) of
everywhere in Brazil, and its the network you are linked to
number is 21. If using Embratel to when calling.
call São Paulo, the number would
look like this: 0-21-11-3455-3288.
This can be confusing because Public Telephones
some prestadora codes are the As in many countries, public
same as some area codes – telephones (orelhôes, or “big
Embratel and Rio, for example. ears”) are diminishing in Brazil.
Pay phones do not take coins.
You must purchase a phone
Cell Phones card (cartão telefonico), available
Cell phones are common all over at newsstands, drugstores, and
Brazil, and are generally used in post offices. To make overseas
Public telephones, available all over Brazil, most public places, including in collect calls from a pay phone,
particularly in urban areas restaurants. Most tri-band GSM you have to contact the
phones will work in Brazil. You operator (dial 21) to complete
Local & International can purchase a local SIM chip the call for you. Local or long-
Phone Calls upon arrival and obtain a local distance collect calls within
Most telephone numbers in number. Most local cell operators Brazil can be made by dialing
Brazil (fixed or cell) are now eight offer a very straightforward 9090 before the number.
or nine digits. If you do come package for international visitors,
across a seven-digit number including for data. Some phones Dialing Codes
(or eight-digit cell), it is best to need to be unlocked before • A local call requires only the
confirm if it is still correct. All cell they can be used in a foreign eight- or nine-digit number
phone numbers begin with a 9. country. Check with your phone of the land line or cell without
Local calls do not require a company before leaving home. the area code. Some key area
two-digit area code, whereas If your service provider has a codes are: Belo Horizonte, 31;
long-distance calls do. All long- roaming agreement with Brazil, Brasília, 61; Curitiba, 41;
distance calls (within Brazil and you can use your regular Fortaleza, 85; Manaus, 92;
international) also require the Natal, 84; Porto Alegre, 51;
use of a long-distance service Recife, 81; Rio de Janeiro, 21;
provider (prestadora). The two- Salvador, 71; São Paulo, 11.
digit code of the prestadora • To make a long-distance call,
needs to be dialed before the dial 0 or +, then the
area code or country code for prestadora code (CSP),
international calls; there are followed by the area code,
and phone number.
different services for fixed and
• To call abroad from Brazil,
cell lines. In listings, long-distance dial 00, then the prestadora
numbers often look like this – code, followed by the country
0-XX-11-3455-3288. The two-digit code, area code, and phone
prestadora number is inserted in number.
place of the “XX” and is known • Contact Embratel at 0800
as the código de seleção de 703 2100 or 0800 703 2111
prestadora (CSP). Customers have to ask for collect calls or
several options, depending on A woman on her cell phone in the Ipanema international calls.
the region. Embratel (Brazil’s neighborhood of Rio de Janeiro
several international couriers for most popular TV network, as well

express overseas delivery, such as a large number of national
as DHL, FedEx, Skynet, and and regional radio networks,
World Courier. Delivery from newspapers, magazines, and
Brazil to the main cities and websites. At hotels and in many
towns in the US or Europe houses, visitors will have access
normally takes 48 hours. to hundreds of digital or satellite
channels that include inter-
national news services such
Addresses as CNN and the BBC. On the
Most addresses are fairly straight- Internet, you will be able to
forward, giving the street name access radio stations from
first, followed by the number. around the world.
Landmark buildings or houses
The distinct blue and yellow colors of a in small towns may be listed as Directory
post office in Rio de Janeiro s/n (sem número, or without
number). Other abbreviations Local & International
Internet in addresses include lj or loja Phone Calls
Internet service is widely (shop) and sl or sobreloja (first Embratel
available in Brazil and usually floor or mezzanine). You should ∑ embratel.com.br
quite cheap. If traveling with a add the zip or postal code and
laptop, ask about the hotel’s the CEP, if you have it. Cell Phones
in-room Internet access rates,
although at more and more Claro
business hotels it is free. Cyber Newspapers & Magazines ∑ claro.com.br
cafés are a cheap option for Brazil does not have any English- Oi
accessing the Internet and are language daily newspapers or ∑ oi.com.br
usually found in shopping magazines. The main Brazilian
Tim
centers, many of which already dailies are, like in the US, regional,
∑ tim.com.br
have free Wi-Fi zones and large the best known being O Globo
bookstores. Some of the bigger (Rio de Janeiro) and the Folha de Vivo
Internet cafés include FNAC São Paulo (São Paulo). The Friday ∑ vivo.com.br
Centro Cultural and Icone editions include a cultural and
Espaço Cultural in São Paulo, entertainment section with Internet
and Livraria da Travessa and detailed information on concerts, Cyber Copa Café
Cyber Copa Café in Rio. plays, movies, and exhibitions. Av Nossa Senhora de
The bestselling weekly news Copacabana 1077, Rio de Janeiro.
magazines are Època, Veja, and Map 2 C4. Tel (21) 2287 9403.
Postal Services Isto É. In Rio de Janeiro, São
The Brazilian postal service is Paulo, and other large cities, the FNAC Centro Cultural
quite efficient. Post offices Veja (see p156) includes a Praça do Omaguás 34, Pinheiros,
São Paulo. Tel (11) 3579 2000.
(correios) are open from 9am to separate magazine and listings
5pm Monday to Friday. Large related to cultural events. Icone Espaço Cultural
shopping centers and airports Newspapers and magazines Rua Augusta 1415, São Paulo.
will have branches with longer are most commonly sold at a Map 4 F1. Tel (11) 3288 9206.
opening hours, including newsstand (banca de jornal). Livraria da Travessa
Saturdays. Regular delivery Newsstands in Ipanema in Rio Rua Visconde de Pirajá 276,
service within Brazil takes two and Praça de Republica in São Ipanema, Rio de Janeiro.
to four days, and overseas six to Paulo have a good range of Map 2 4A Tel (21) 3205 9002
12 days. For guaranteed or international magazines, as do
registered delivery, the correios the better bookstores, especially Postal Services
offer the excellent SEDEX in major shopping centers.
(domestic Brazilian express mail) Correios
∑ correios.com.br
service, which functions like a
courier service. For international Television & Radio DHL
mail, there is SEDEX Mundi and Brazil is well served when it ∑ dhl.com.br
Express Mail Service (EMS). The comes to both television and
FedEx
correios has a good website, radio, although most of the ∑ fedex.com/br
parts of which are in English, local programming will be in
which allows you to check Portuguese, but this can add Skynet
addresses, postal codes (known to the flavor of a local football ∑ skynetsao.com
as CEP), locate post office match or sporting event. The World Courier
branches, or track deliveries. media giant in Brazil is Globo. ∑ worldcourier.com
In larger cities, there are also It is responsible for the country’s
418 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Most travelers arrive in Brazil by plane. There airport or in Rio de Janeiro. There are a few
are regular scheduled flights from Europe regular flights to Salvador, Recife, Brasilia,
and North and South America. Travelers Belo Horizonte, and Fortaleza. However,
from Asia or Africa will most likely have to most direct flights to these and other
connect elsewhere before continuing to destinations in the Northeast, such as Natal,
Brazil. Several airlines offer stopovers to or are European charter flights. Air travel
from Brazil at no extra cost. Almost all direct within Brazil is efficient, and most remote
flights land at São Paulo’s international locations are accessible by plane.
Arriving by Air
Most direct international flights
land either in Rio de Janeiro
or São Paulo, but there are also
flights into other major cities,
such as Brasília, Manaus, Belo
Horizonte, Recife, and Salvador.
Convenient connections are
available for other domestic
destinations. Travelers will clear
customs at the airport where
they first enter Brazil.
International Airlines Modern, well-equipped Belém International Airport

Most major European and North
and South American airlines Europa, and from Miami with stay in Brazil and will be checked
operate regularly scheduled American Airlines. Gol, Brazil’s on departure. Loss of the card
flights to Brazil. Delta, American second-largest airline, flies inter- may result in a major hassle and
Airlines, Continental Airlines, nationally to Latin American possibly a fine (see p408). Officials
KLM, Lufthansa, Air France, destinations only. will also stamp your passport,
British Airways, Alitalia, Iberia, and in case they are not granting
Tap, and others offer nonstop you the usual 90-day stay in
flights to Rio de Janeiro and On Arrival Brazil, the number of days will be
São Paulo. The largest Brazilian All tourists must fill out a cartao written beneath the word Prazo
airline, TAM, has regular flights to de entrada/saida (entry/exit on the stamp in your passport.
Europe and the USA. There are card). Immigration officials will For an extension of the 90-day
also nonstop flights to Salvador keep half and return the other to entry stamp, contact the Polícia
de Bahia from Madrid with Air you. This card serves as proof of Federal (see p408).
A Gol aircraft at the Deputado Luíz E. Magalhães International Airport, Salvador

T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N 419
Directory
International Airlines
Air Europa
∑ aireuropa.com
American Airlines
Tel (1800) 433 7300.
∑ aa.com
Gol
Tel (0300) 115 2121.
∑ voegol.com.br
Taxis waiting outside Congonhas Airport, São Paulo City TAM

Tel (0300) 570 5700 toll-free.
Customs Requirements & Taxis, too, are easily available at ∑ tam.com.br
Duty Free a fixed price. Salvador’s inter-
Airport Shuttles
All international travelers are national airport is linked to the
allowed to purchase up to city center by an hourly shuttle Real Auto Bus
US$500 at the Brazilian duty-free express bus service. Tel (21) 3035 6700.
shop in the arrival hall. Purchases ∑ realautoonibus.com.br
must be made prior to exiting
the customs area. Visitors may Travel Agencies & Tour Operators
bring items for their personal Packages
use, including electronics. European residents have access Brazil Nuts
1660 Trade Center Way, Suite 1,
Gadgets, such as cameras or to attractive package deals to
Naples, FL 34109, USA.
laptops, may need to be Northeast Brazil. Packages
Tel +1 239 963 4282.
registered upon arrival to ensure typically include hotel and airfare
∑ brazilnuts.com
that they will be taken out of the to a popular destination such as
country again. Gifts up to a value Fortaleza, Natal, or Recife. Though Brol
of US$500 can be brought in affordable, these package tours 2665 South Bayshore Drive, Suite
without additional duties; do not offer a lot of flexibility. 445, Miami, FL 33133, USA.
Brazilian duty-free purchases Independent travelers who wish Tel +1 305 379 0005.
are not included in this amount. to visit several destinations, must ∑ brol.com
book their own airfare and Journey Latin America
hotels. Confirm hotel prices with 401 King St, London W6 9NJ, UK.
Getting from Airports travel operators, as Brazilian Tel +44 (020) 3432 9325.
In Rio City, taxis can be a rip-off. hotels often reserve their best ∑ journeylatinamerica.co.uk
Either take a set-price yellow cab prices for agencies.
from Rio airport or, instead, go A number of travel agencies,
for the Real Auto Bus, which such as Brazil Nuts, offer agency, offers tailor-made tours
runs an efficient half-hourly bus customized tours or programs, across Brazil. Based in Miami,
service. São Paulo City offers including activities for seniors, Brol (BR Online Travel) is the first
excellent air-conditioned shuttles youths, gay travelers, or for American online travel company
known as the “Airport Service.” those interested in cultural to specialize in Brazil. It sells air
These run every 30 minutes, and activities. Journey Latin passes for multiple flights
depart from the arrivals terminal. America, a UK-based travel around Brazil or South America.
Distance to City Average Taxi Average Journey

Airport Information
Center Fare Time
Internacional de São Paulo City 40–120 minutes
(11) 2445 2945 US$50
Guarulhos 17 miles (28 km) (in rush hour)
International Airport Rio de Janeiro City 40–90 minutes
(21) 3398 5050 US$40
Tom Jobim 12 miles (20 km) (in rush hour)
Deputado Luíz E. Salvador 17 miles
(71) 3204 1010 US$55 40 minutes
Magalhães (28 km)
Internacional dos Recife 11 miles
(81) 3322 4188 US$30 20 minutes
Guararapes (18 km)
Manaus 10 miles
Eduardo Gomes (92) 3652 1210 US$40 25 minutes
(16 km)
Internacional Porto Alegre 4 miles
(51) 3358 2000 US$15 15 minutes
Salgado Filho (6 km)
420 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Domestic Air Travel and conditions, or else check

the airline’s website for more
The sheer size of Brazil makes air travel the preferred mode information.
of transportation. The country has an excellent network of
airlines and most airports have been modernized. Air travel is High Season
an important means of transportation to reach remote areas High season for domestic air
in Amazônia and the interior of Brazil. All towns in the country travel corresponds with the
have at least an airstrip, and all cities have an airport, usually major holidays and vacation
some distance from the city, or located fairly centrally, as in periods in Brazil. The peak season
the case with São Paulo City and Rio City. is in the Brazilian summer, from
the week of Christmas until
Carnaval in mid-February or early
March. The month of July is also
peak season when schools and
universities are off on their
winter break. Other popular
periods are Easter, Corpus Christi,
and Independence Day
(September 7).
TAM offers significant
discounts for those who take
night flights or fly at off-peak
hours. As unpleasant as
departures and arrivals in the
wee hours may be, the savings
can be significant. It is also
advisable to book well ahead of
time when planning to take
flights Friday evening or Monday
Gol Linhas Aereas Inteligentes aircraft taxi at Congonhas Airport, São Paulo morning between major cities.
Domestic Airlines Airpass
Domestic air travel within Nonresidents of Brazil who Air Taxi
Brazil is a well-organized arrive on an international flight Many parts of Brazil, and
and efficient form of trans- are entitled to buy an airpass particularly Amazônia, feature
portation. There are currently with TAM, making long-distance air taxi companies. Air taxis,
two major airlines that fly flights within Brazil quite known locally as teco-tecos,
both international and affordable. The airline sells the are not the most reliable form
domestic routes – TAM and pass for US$479, for which you of transportation. Before
Gol (see p421). Domestic are allowed four domestic taking one, be aware that the
bargain airlines include flights within a 21-day period. airstrips are often dangerous.
Avianca Brazil, Azul, Gol, Additional segments can be These small planes routinely
and Trip. The nation’s largest purchased. No direct return fly overloaded, and are very
airline, TAM Airlines operates flights are allowed. For example, often in questionable condition.
flights between São Paulo and Rio–Manaus–Rio–Salvador is There are no checks made on
Mato Grosso do Sul and has not allowed but Rio–Manaus– the qualifications of pilots, so
built up a wide and inexpensive Salvador–Rio is. A travel agent taking an air taxi is at the
network throughout the can explain the detailed terms traveler’s own risk.
Amazon region.
Checking In
Check-in for domestic flights
is normally 60 minutes prior
to departure. A valid ID
is required, and foreigners
are required to show their
passport upon check-in. Make
sure to keep the luggage claim
tags handy upon arrival, as
airport staff will check for
those when exiting the
baggage claim area. Teco-teco (air taxi) in the Amazon region
DIRECTORY
Domestic Airlines
Avianca Brazil
Tel 4004 4040.
∑ avianca.com.br
Azul
∑ voeazul.com.br
Gol
Tel (0300) 115 2121.
∑ voegol.com.br
TAM Airlines
An Avianca flight taking off at Curitiba Airport
Tel (0800) 026 0728.
Reservations & as a no-show, and all your ∑ tam.com.br
Cancellations other airpass reservations will
Trip
Flights tend to be booked in also be canceled. Similarly,
Tel (0800) 887 1118.
advance so book your tickets if you miss a flight, reconfirm
as far ahead as possible. The all onward flights on your ∑ voetrip.com.br
only exception to this is the airpass. If you don’t, all your
Rio–São Paulo shuttle, where other flights will be canceled. Domestic Airports
you can purchase tickets on
the spot. Flights at the Aeroporto de
beginning and end of working Domestic Airports Congonhas
days and on weekends are Along with domestic Tel (11) 5090 9000.
usually quite crowded. airports, such as Aeroporto
Confirm onward flights a de Congonhas in São Paulo, Aeroporto Santos
day or two in advance. This can and Aeroporto Santos Dumont
be done over the phone, as Dumont in Rio de Janeiro, Tel (21) 3814 7070.
most airlines have English- there are small domestic
speaking staff. airports all over Brazil,
If you have an airpass and including Recife, Belo and Santos Dumont airports
you happen to change your Horizonte, Cuiabá, Campo are close to the commercial
flight, remember to cancel the Grande, Curitiba, Fernando de areas. The shuttle service
original flight. If you don’t do Noronha, Florianópolis, and from Congonhas Airport to the
so, the computer will flag you Fortaleza. Both Congonhas city center takes 50 minutes.
Rio de Janeiro Flight Duration Chart

1:15 = Duration in hours:minutes
0:45 São Paulo
2:30 1:00 Florianópolis GETTING AROUND

Due to the size and distances across Brazil,
BrasÍlia the fastest and easiest way to travel around
1:30 1:35 2:17
the country is by air. All big cities, smaller
towns, and even more remote areas across
3:00 2:55 6:00 2:45 Manaus
the country have airports, or at least an
airstrip of some sort. Domestic flights are
3:35 5:25 4:40 2:20 1:00 Belém available to and from just about any major
city across Brazil.
4:00 5:45 5:25 2:27 4:20 1:00 São Luís
3:00 2:30 0:55 2:30 4:25 2:50 1:10 Fortaleza
2:45 3:00 6:18 2:20 7:30 4:20 2:45 1:10 Recife
1:50 0:45 5:10 1:55 7:30 7:45 4:35 1:40 1:10 Salvador
0:50 1:00 3:00 1:10 7:00 5:00 4:45 4:00 3:55 1:35 Belo Horizonte
422 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Bus & Car Travel air-conditioned 4WDs. Rental

agreements can be with full or
Bus and car travel is a challenge in Brazil, both because of the partial insurance, with unlimited
distances, and because of the often poor quality of the roads. driving or with a per-kilometer
Brazil possesses a total of 932,000 miles (1.5 million km) of charge. In terms of price, a four-
door mid-size sedan with air
federal, state, and local roads but only 49,000 miles (79,000
conditioning, unlimited driving,
km) are paved and in decent condition. Intercity bus travel and full insurance will cost
is well organized and most routes offer efficient and about R$150 (US$83) per day in
comfortable express services. Though car rentals are widely a larger city. In smaller towns
available, given the distances and the high cost of gasoline, and remote areas, prices go up
a car is not really advisable for longer trips, but it is a by 50 to 100 percent. It is a
good idea to check with locals
convenient way to explore attractions closer to the city. about the condition of the
roads you plan on taking.
Gas Stations
Cars in Brazil run on either
gasoline or alcohol, but many
new models run on both.
Service stations selling gasoline
are more common, especially
in remote areas. On long-
distance road trips, service
stations may be few and far
between, so ensure that the
car is in good condition. Always
Busy rodoviária (central bus terminal) in São Paulo be well prepared with some
cash, water, enough car fluids,
Buses Car Rentals a good spare tire with tools,
Brazil has an excellent network All major cities and most and a flashlight.
of long-distance buses which smaller cities and towns offer
makes traveling around the car rental services, such as
country easy and economical. Avis and Localiza. Car rental Driving in Towns
Intercity buses leave from a offices, known as locadoras, Driving in Brazilian towns and
central station, called a can be found at every airport cities can sometimes be a
rodoviária, usually built on the and in most towns. Foreigners frustrating experience. Any time
outskirts of the city. Buses are need to show a valid driver’s after about 9pm, especially in
operated by numerous private license from their home Rio and São Paulo, drivers begin
companies, but prices are country, state, or province, their to treat red lights as strictly
standardized, and very passport, and a major credit optional. Be especially alert at
reasonable. Several categories of card. It is also a good idea to intersections at night (even
buses operate on longer routes. carry an International Driver’s as a pedestrian). Often the
Regular buses (ônibus comum) Permit (IDP). A wide variety of driver running the red light
sometimes do not have air-con- cars are available in Brazil, from won’t even slow down, because
ditioning, so ask. Comum com ar small economy models with no of the risk of robberies at
are regular buses with air- air conditioning, to large isolated intersections.
conditioning. The executivo bus
is more comfortable, its chairs
wider and equipped with
footrests. The best buses for
overnight trips are known as
semi-leito or leito. Semi-leito have
seats that recline almost
horizontally and have large
footrests. Leito buses offer a fully
horizontal bed-like seat. Both
normally offer onboard
refreshments, blankets, and
pillows. Nearly all buses have
onboard bathrooms. Buy your
tickets from the rodoviária ahead
of time, especially on holidays. Posto de Gasolina (gas station) in Rio de Janeiro
On highways and secondary to stay in its lane. Drivers Directory

roads, drivers tend to be switch lanes constantly, for
fearless overtaking other no apparent reason, Car Rentals
vehicles, even when normally without
Avis
they can’t see what’s signaling.
around the bend. However, the use of Tel (11) 2155 2847 (São Paulo) or
Parking, especially in photo radar and regular (0800) 725 2847.
cities, can be a bit tricky alcohol checks have ∑ avis.com.br
due to security and improved driving
space constraints. It is conditions. Seatbelt Localiza
worth paying extra for laws are also rigorously Tel (0800) 979 2000 (Reservations).
a hotel with a lock-up enforced. Note that in ∑ localiza.com.br
garage facility. Do not larger cities such as São
leave valuables in the car. Paulo, Rio, and Salvador, Emergency
It is also worth paying a Parking sign traffic is still very chaotic. In
few reais to self-appointed case of an emergency, Highway Police
“guards” who may approach it is best to call the Polícia Tel 191 (Road Emergencies).
you to watch over your car. Militar (see pp412–13) or
Highway Police.
southern states such as Rio
Rules of the Road and São Paulo are much better
Officially, the rules of the road Road Network than in northeastern or
are much the same as in Brazil’s intercity road network Amazônian states such as Bahia
Continental Europe or the is made up of state and federal or Rondônia. Even in the South,
United States. Drive on the right highways. Federal highways roads in bad condition are
side of the road; unlike the USA, are denoted by the initials BR not uncommon.
right turns on red lights are not followed by the number of the Traveling by night is best
allowed. Roundabouts are highway (BR-163). State roads avoided. With very few
common only in Brasília. The are indicated by the state initials exceptions, highways in Brazil
right of way is always with the (RJ for Rio de Janeiro, PA for are poorly lit, and completely
car already in the roundabout, Pará, and so on) followed by lacking in reflective paint,
or to the left. the highway number (PA-150). reflective signage, and the
However, it is the application Toll roads have become more roadside reflectors that show
of these rules – or lack thereof – common. Most are run by the edge of the road.
that sets Brazil apart. Most private companies. They are The best compilation of
Brazilians are aggressive and usually well maintained and national road maps come
impatient drivers. They tend to offer roadside assistance. bundled with the Guia
drive fast, overtake often, either Most other state and federal Quatro Rodas, a publication
on the right or left, and when highways are undivided two- brought out by a Brazilian
they cannot, they hang lane blacktops, with occasional motoring organization of
impatiently on your back passing lanes. Care is required the same name, available
bumper. Do not expect the when driving on these roads. at newsstands, bookstores,
large bus driving next to you Generally speaking, the roads in and magazine stalls.
Road sign meaning “slow down” on a highway near Goiás

424 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Train & Boat Travel in Brazil

Train travel is not a common mode of transportation in Brazil.
While large parts of the country have never seen train tracks,
in other areas, many routes have been deactivated in favor of
roads. Today, the few remaining routes are of more interest to
train aficionados, and are often of great scenic beauty. In
some parts of Brazil, boat travel is still the only mode of
transportation. With few roads connecting the major cities,
particularly in the Amazon and along the northern coast,
locals depend entirely on boats to get around. On the Rio
Paraguay, on the western edge of the Pantanal, boats are
used for multiday fishing charters.
short historic routes. Steam The interior of a Maria Fumaça steam

locomotive trains, lovingly locomotive train
called Maria Fumaça, or
“Smoking Mary,” run on these Boat Travel
routes. One of the journeys In many parts of Brazil, boats
this unique steam engine makes are a vital form of transport.
is a regular 7-mile (12-km) run The network is extensive, and
on weekends between São services are regular, although
João del Rei and Tiradentes the facilities largely depend
(see p136), historic towns in on the type of boat chosen
Minas Gerais. An appealing for traveling.
short trip is offered along the In the Amazon, rivers are
route between the beautiful, still the major highways, and
historic mining town of Ouro old-style wooden riverboats
Preto, one of Brazil’s best- are an important part of the
preserved colonial towns, and transportation system. The most
Mariana, also in Minas. Even common and popular route
Trains waiting at the Luz railroad station in though the towns are only runs between Manaus and
São Paulo 7 miles (12 km) apart, the route Belém. The journey takes four
buzzes with history, as gold days downstream and five days
Train Travel miners and gem hunters in upstream. On this route, there
Although Brazil does not have the days of the gold rush used are also several larger and more
a large train network, there are to travel through these hills. modern boats, which feature
a few specific routes that can Contact the Estação Ferroviária air-conditioned cabins and
be useful for travelers and are for further details. even enclosed air-conditioned
good for a scenic ride. The Another spectacular route hammock spaces. Continuing
Minas–Vitória train journey is is the Curitiba–Paranaguá train right up to Tefé, AJATO runs
an excellent day trip, and ride through the Atlantic rain- a speedboat service every
perfect for those traveling forest of the Serra do Mar. Wednesday and Saturday,
between the cities of Belo The most unforgettable stretch with airplane-style seating.
Horizonte, in the heartland of is between Curitiba and On most other routes, the
Minas Gerais, and Vitória on Morretes (see p341). For boats are the older, smaller
the Espírito Santo coast. information, contact the traditional type, with small
The quickest and most Curitiba Ticket Office. wooden cabins, and two open
comfortable way to travel
between São Luís and the
interior of Pará, in Northern
Brazil, is the São Luís Carajás
railroad. In the state of Amapá,
also in Northern Brazil, a
passenger and cargo train runs
from the port of Santana, 124
miles (200 km) inland, to the
former mining town of Serra
de Navio. Its passenger cars,
though old and in need of
maintenance, are still functional.
Brazil offers a few charming, A picturesque view of one of the Maria Fumaça steam trains
Directory
Train Travel
Curitiba Ticket Office
Tel (41) 3888 3488.
∑ serraverdeexpress.com.br
Estação Ferroviária
Praça Cesário Alvim 102, barra,
Ouro Preto. Tel (31) 3551 7705.
∑ tremdavale.org
Boat travel
AJATO
Cruise ship Iberostar moored on the Manaus harbor Rua Bares 3, Centro, Manaus
Tel (92) 3622 6047.
decks – upper and lower – Cruise Travel
Amazonastur
where passengers sling their A very leisurely way to travel Tel (92) 2123 3819.
hammocks. Meals and water the Brazilian coast is on board ∑ amazonastur.am.gov.br
are provided. a cruise ship. Several companies
Boats of the old style ply offer three- to five-day cruises, Viverde
dozens of routes throughout most typically between Santos, Rua das Guariúbas 47, Manaus
the Amazon basin. The most Rio de Janeiro as far as Salvador, Tel (92) 3248 9988.
common routes run between or other northeastern cities. ∑ viverde.com.br
Manaus and Porto Velho, Another route starts in Recife
Manaus, Tabatinga, and São and travels to Fernando de Cruise travel
Gabriel de Cachoeira, near the Noronha. There is now also
Amazon Clipper Cruises
borders of Peru and Columbia, a regular cruise ship, the
Tel (92) 3656 1246.
respectively, and Manaus and Iberostar Grand Amazon, that
∑ amazonclipper.com.br
Santarem, halfway to Belém. departs from Manaus on three-
The Manaus–Santarem route and four-day cruises on the Iberostar Grand Amazon
also has a high-speed Amazon. The old-style Amazon Tel (71) 3676 4300.
catamaran which makes the Clipper Cruises can be excel- ∑ iberostar.com.br
journey in a single day. Those lent for a tour of the Rio Negro.
more keen on tours than
transportation can go for one
of the comfortable boats for
charter in Manaus, such as
Viverde, that take passengers
on a personal exploration of the
Amazon River. For information
on buying tickets in advance,
contact Amazonastur, the state
tourism agency.
The Rio Paraguay on the
western edge of the Pantanal
has a large fleet of boats, most
of which are outfitted for multi-
day sportfishing cruises. These
boats depart from both
Corumbá in Mato Grosso do Sul
and Caceres in Mato Grosso.
On the Northeast coast, an
absence of roads connecting
the Maranhão and Piauí coast
makes boat travel the only
alternative to long detours
inland. The most scenic option
is to travel from Parnaíba in Piauí
through the islands and inlets
of the Delta da Parnaíba to
Tutóia, one of the gateways
to the Lençóis Maranhenses. Yachts at anchor near Ubatuba beach, São Paulo state
426 SUR VIVAL GUIDE
Getting around Brazilian Towns

Public transportation in Brazil varies greatly from city to city
and region to region. Large cities such as São Paulo and Rio
de Janeiro have modern metro systems that offer quick access
to many parts of the city and decent bus systems. However,
in most cities and towns, the main mode of transportation
is the bus and its variations, such as minivans and minibuses.
Taxis are plentiful and quite affordable. In very small
communities where there is little in the way of regular
public transportation, people often use motorcycle taxis
(moto-taxis). It is a cheap and fast one-person ride.
Taxis & Moto-taxis Moto-taxi stand, and drivers, in Camamu

Taxis are affordable and a quick town, Bahia
mode of transportation. Prices
generally run 50 to 70 percent of taking advantage of tourists
lower than in Europe or North who don’t speak Portuguese
America. Most taxis work on and aren’t familiar with Brazil.
the meter. When starting the In most cities, taxis can be
ride, make sure that the meter hailed on the street or at
is cleared and shows “tariff 1” numerous taxi stands. Renting a
except from 11pm to 6am, taxi for the day is an inexpensive
Sundays, and in December alternative to renting a car. The
when “2” is permitted. Drivers price is negotiated with the
sometimes “forget” to start the driver. Taxis in small towns do
meter and end up charging a not have meters, so it is best to
flat rate. agree upon a price in advance.
Visitors exploring the town of Búzios The only taxis allowed to Another option in smaller
on foot charge a flat rate are radio taxis towns is the moto-taxi, or
or cooperatives at airports, bus motorcycle-taxi. The driver
On foot stations, or other specific carries an extra helmet and
Visitors to Brazil often seem locations. The price will be set the passenger just hops on
preoccupied with street crime. before the passenger gets in. the back and rides pillion after
What they should really worry Rates are typically 30 to 40 fixing a price.
about is traffic. Pedestrians get percent higher than regular
little or no respect. It is safest metered taxis, but you know
to assume that cars have the what the final price will be. Metro
absolute right of way Although these prepaid taxis are The metro is the safest form
everywhere at all times. Even not a bargain, they may be good of public transport in Rio and
when the pedestrian has the value when taking a taxi from São Paulo. Both cities have
right of way, such as when the international airports in Rio metro systems that are very
crossing with a green light, de Janeiro and São Paulo (see convenient for visitors, as
extreme care should be p419), where taxi drivers have they offer quick and reliable
exercised at all times. developed the unfortunate habit transportation to a number
After dark, or when traffic
is light, or when police are
absent, cars tend to run red
lights. Also, when making a
right turn, cars rarely give
preference to pedestrians trying
to cross. Pedestrians should
also be aware of bikes or motor-
cycles that may go down the
wrong way on a one-way street.
Always look both left and right.
Motorcyclists often weave
in and out between the cars
at high speeds. Be very
careful when walking in
between stationary or slow-
moving traffic. Yellow Rio taxis, plentiful and relatively inexpensive
Passengers waiting to board the bus at a city bus stand in Paraná
of interesting sites. It is week and is also clean, efficient, south to the center will go to
much easier and faster to and safer than the buses. Copacabana. Keep in mind that
take the metro to the stop For both systems, one-way buses are often crowded, and
closest to your destination (unitário), round-trip (duplo), or get stuck in terrible time-
and then take a taxi, rather ten-ride (múltiplo) tickets are consuming traffic snarls. They
than figure out a complicated available. However, no discounts are also often the sites of many
and often slow bus system. are offered for multiple-ride of the city’s robberies. To avoid
In Rio de Janeiro, the metro tickets. Transfers between lines pickpockets, try to sit at the
runs from 5am to midnight are allowed. Free metro maps front of the bus.
Monday through Saturday, and are available at most ticket In São Paulo, a couple of the
from 7am to 11pm on Sundays booths of both metro systems. main bus transfer points are at
and holidays. During Carnaval, Praça da Republica and the
the metro runs nonstop for the busy Terminal Bandeira, where
five days of the festival. The Buses it is also possible to catch
metro has two main lines, both Buses are plentiful in the big different buses to far-off
of which are clean and safe, even cities. Most buses list their destinations within the city.
in the evenings. The main line destination in large letters on Tickets are sold on the bus by a
from Gal Osório in Ipanema to their front window, while ticket-seller who sits at a turnstile.
Uruguai has 20 stops. The line another sign with smaller Keep small change handy.
splits at Central, with one line lettering lists key landmarks Brazilian bus drivers can drive
continuing west, while the along the route. Buses in Rio fast, so hold on at all times and
secondary line goes north to São and São Paulo run 24 hours a be alert for sudden stops when
Cristóvão and beyond. The stops day, but with fewer circulating standing. It is safer to take buses
of most interest to visitors are in the middle of the night. In in the daytime. In the evenings,
downtown and along the Rio, most buses going from the it is advisable to take taxis.
southern beach neighborhoods,
as well as the first few stops
along the northern line to the
Maracanã Stadium and Boã Vista
Palace. Rio’s metro now also
offers a series of integrated
metro-bus routes, which offer
connections on air-conditioned
buses to many of the city’s
attractions that are off the metro
system, such as Santa Teresa,
Sugar Loaf, and Ipanema. Passen-
gers must request a special
integrated ticket (integração) at
the time of purchase.
São Paulo’s metro system
covers quite a large part of the
city. It runs from 4:40am to
midnight on all days of the São Paulo metro arriving in the Barra Funda station
428 GENERAL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold type refer to Amaralina 199 Athayde, Mestre (Manuel da Costa)
main entries Amazon river 263, 269, 281 34
Encontro das Aguas 289 Igreja da São Francisco de Assis
90 Mile Beach 448 Pororoca wave 279 (Ouro Preto) 131, 132
505 (Sydney) 146, 147 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and Mariana 133
Rondônia 281–93 Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo)
A hotels 378–9 146
Manaus 284–9 Ouro Preto 130
A Batalha do Avaí (Américo) 78 map 282–3 Atlantic coastal forest see Mata
A Cruz Caida (Cravo) 187 restaurants 394–5 Atlântica
Abismo Anhumas 327 Amazônia 15, 26, 276–7 ATMs 414
Abraão 107 The Amazon ecosystem Autódromo Internacional Nelson
Acre see Amazonas, Roraima, Acre 264–5 Piquet (Barra da Tijuca) 91
and Rondônia boat travel 424–5 Autumn in Brazil 46
Addresses 417 excursions from Manaus Avenida Paulista (São Paulo) 13,
Afonso de Sousa, Martim 165, 288–91 148
173 history 51 Avenida Rio Branco (Rio de Janeiro)
Afro-Brazilian culture 180–81 The people of Amazônia 76
Museu Afro-Brasileiro (Salvador) 266–7 Azoreans 332
190, 192 The rubber story in Brazil 278 Azul, Lagoa 202, 245
religions 39 Transamazônica 62, 63, 272 Azulejos (tiles)
Agostinho de Piedade, Frei 34, 146 wildlife 28 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
Air travel 418–21 Ambulances 411 (Belo Horizonte) 129
air taxis 420 Américo, Pedro 152, 308 Salvador 188, 195
airpass 420 A Batalha do Avaí 78
domestic air travel 420–21 Anavilhanas, Ilhas de 288–9 B
international travel 418–19 Anchieta, José 35, 139 Bahia 185–211
Akihito, Emperor of Japan 149 Anchieta, Padre 142, 146 capoeira 203
Alagoas see Sergipe, Alagoas and Andrade, Mário de 35 hotels 374–5
Pernambuco Andrade, Oswald de 35 Linha Verde 211
Alcântara 249, 258–9 Angra dos Reis 14, 114 map 186–7
festivals 46 festivals 45 Parque Nacional de Chapada
Alcohol 383 hotels 372 Diamantina 208–9
Aleijadinho 32, 34, 76, 135 Antônio Prado 361 Salvador 188–99
Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Antropofagismo movement 34, 35 restaurants 391–2
Matosinhos 134 Aparados da Serra, Parque Nacional Baía de Castelhanos 169
Igreja da São Francisco de Assis dos 353, 354, 362 Baía de Guanabara 92
(Ouro Preto) 132 Apart-hotels 368 Baía do Sueste 228
Mariana 133 Aquariums Baianas 31
Matriz de Santo Antônio Aquário de Santos 173 Balaiada Rebellion (1838–41) 56
(Tiradentes) 136 Aquário de Ubatuba 168 Bananal, Ilha do 297, 303, 315
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo) Aquário Natural Baia Bonita Bandeira, Manuel 35
146 (Bonito) 327 Banking 414–15
Ouro Preto 130 Oceanário (Aracaju) 216 Banknotes 415
portrait of 131 Aracaju 216 Barbosa de Oliveira, Rui 76
Alencar, José de 246, 247 festivals 45 Museu Casa de Rui Barbosa (Rio
Alfândega (Manaus) 284 hotels 375 de Janeiro) 85
Algodoal 274 restaurants 392 Bardot, Brigitte 107, 120
All Souls’ Day 47 Aracati 244 Baroque architecture 32
Almeida, José Ferraz de Júnior Araguaia, Rio 315 Barra do Itariri 211
34 Araruama, Lake 121 Barra Grande 202
Alta Floresta 323 Araujo, José Soares de 128 Barra da Lagoa 351
hotels 379 Architecture 32–3 Barra Shopping Center 14, 90
Alter do Chão 278 Arco de Telles (Rio de Janeiro) Barra de Superagui 343
Amado, Jorge 25, 35, 204 Street-by-Street map 74 Barra da Tijuca (Rio de Janeiro) 14,
Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado Arcos da Lapa (Rio de Janeiro) 90–91
(Salvador) 191, 192 78 hotels 370
Ilhéus 204 Areia Branca 243 map 90
Amapá see Pará and Amapá Areia Vermelha, Ilha de (João restaurants 386
Amaral, Cláudio Gurgel do 79 Pessoa) 235 Barreado 343
Amaral, Crispim do 286 Argentina Barreirinhas
Amaral, Tarsila do 34, 35 Foz do Iguaçu 344, 345, 347 hotels 377
Estação Pinacoteca (São Paulo) Arraial do Cabo 121 Barreta 241
146 Art see Museums and galleries Barreto, Afonso Lima 35
Estrada de Ferro Central do Brasil Artists 34 Barretos
152 Arts and crafts see Crafts festivals 47
Museu de Arte Contemporânea Ashaninka people 267 Bars 382, 401
(São Paulo) 152 Atalaia 216 Rio de Janeiro 97, 99
GENERAL INDEX 429
Basílica de Nossa Senhora da Beuque, Jacques van de 91 Brazilian Formula 1 Grand Prix
Asunção (Mariana) 133 Biggs, Ronald 81 44
Basílica de Nossa Senhora de Nazaré Biking 403, 405 Brecheret, Victor 34
(Belém) 273 Bill, Max 33 Monumento às Bandeiras 150
Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos Birds 28–9, 402, 405 Museu de Arte Contemporânea
(Mariana) 133 Chapada dos Guimarães 323 (São Paulo) 152
Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de Mata Atlântica 113 Museu de Arte de São Paulo 147
Matosinhos (Congonhas) 134–5 Pantanal 319 Brendan, St 53
Batuque 39 Parque das Aves (Iguaçu) 15, 346 Brennand, Francisco 223
Beaches see also Wildlife Breu, Ilha do 112
Aracaju 216 Biribiri 128 Brito, Francisco Xavier de 34
Brazilian beach culture 42–3 Blumenau Basílica de Nossa Senhora da
Búzios 120–21 festivals 44 Assunção (Mariana) 133
Cananéia 175 Boa Vista 262, 281, 292 Igreja de São Francisco da
Copacabana 12, 71, 82 hotels 379 Penitência (Rio de Janeiro) 76
Costa do Sul 120–21 restaurants 394 Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar
Fortaleza 247 Boats 424–5 (Ouro Preto) 132
Grumari 91 cruises 425 Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo)
Guarapari 122 Ilhabela Sailing Week 47 146
Guarujá 169 Boff, Leonardo 38 Brown, Carlinhos 37, 180
Ilha do Mel 343 Bolpeba, Ilha de 202 Bry, Theodor de 50
Ipanema 12, 83 Bolsa e Museu do Café (Santos) 172, Buarque, Chico 35, 37
Itacaré 204 173 Buddhism 39
João Pessoa 234–5 Bond, James 81 Bueno, Maria Esther 25
Leblon 12, 83 Bonete 169 Buggies 245
Maceió 218, 219 Bonito 296, 327 Bumba-meu-boi 258
Maresias 169 hotels 379 Buriti palm trees 255
Morro de São Paulo 202 restaurants 395 Burle Marx, Roberto
Niterói 93 Bookshops Belo Horizonte 129
Paraty 112 São Paulo 155 Brasília 299, 306
Peninsula de Maraú 202 Boqueirão Norte 175 Parque Burle Marx (São Paulo)
Porto de Galinhas 219 Borrifos 169 153
Porto Seguro 205 Bosch, Hieronymus 147 Recife 222, 223
Praia da Barra da Tijuca 90 Bosco, Dom 298, 308 Sitio Roberto Burle Marx (Barra
Praia Prainha 91 Bossa nova 36 da Tijuca) 14, 91
Rota do Sol 241 Rio de Janeiro 97, 99 Buses 422
Salinópolis 274 Bosten, Mathias 119 in cities 427
Salvador’s Atlantic coast 13, Botafogo (Rio de Janeiro) 25 from airport 419
198–9 hotels 371 Búzios 12, 107, 120–21, 241
São Paulo State 165 restaurants 386–7 hotels 372
Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco Botecos 401 restaurants 388
213 Botocudos 53
Ubatuba 168 Botofogo Bay 70 C
Beça, Aníbal 35 Branco, Rio 281, 283 Cabanagem Rebellion (1835) 272
Beer 383 Brandão, Théo 218–19 Cable cars
Belém 263, 268, 269, 271, 272–3 Braque, Georges 146, 147 Sugar Loaf Mountain (Rio de
climate 49 Brasil, Vital 152 Janeiro) 80–81
festivals 44 Brasília 15, 21, 297, 306–9 Cabo Frio 107, 121
flight duration chart 421 architecture 33 Cabral, Pedro Álvares 51, 52–3
hotels 378 Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Itacaré 204
map 273 Senhora Aparecida (Brasília) 307, monument 150
restaurants 394 309 Porto Seguro 205
Bell, Alexander Graham 119 climate 49 Caburé 251, 255
Bellini, Giovanni 147 creation of a capital 298–9 Cáceres
Belo Horizonte 125, 129 flight duration chart 421 festivals 44
climate 49 history 62 Cachaça (alcohol) 383, 399
festivals 44 hotels 379 Cachoeira 200–201
flight duration chart 421 map 306–7 Cachoeira da Água Branca 169
history 58 restaurants 395 Cachoeira Almeçegas 317
hotels 373 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 303– Cachoeira d’Anta 137
restaurants 388–9 17 Cachoeira do Buraçao 209
Belterra 279 hotels 379 Cachoeira da Toca 169
Benedictine order 142–3 map 304–5 “Café com leite” Republic 58
Bento Gonçalves 22, 360 Parque Nacional Chapada dos Cafés 401
hotels 381 Veadeiros 316–17 Cafua das Mercês (São Luís), 258
restaurants 397 Pirenópolis 312–13 Caipira Picando Fumo (Júnior)
Bernl, Richard 142 restaurants 395 145
Bethânia, Maria 200 Brazil, naming of 53 Calhau 258
430 GENERAL INDEX
Calixto, Benedito 34 Caruaru 227 Cathedrals (cont.)

Fundação Pinacoteca Benedito festivals 47 Catedral de São Pedro dos
Calixto (Santos) 172 Carvalho, João Antunes de 134 Clérigos (Recife) 222
Igreja da Consolação (São Paulo) Carybé 190, 192 Catedral Metropolitana (Porto
143 Casa do Artesão (Corumbá) 326 Alegre) 356
Mãe Douro 172 Casa de Cadeia (Paraty) 110 Catedral Metropolitana (Rio de
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo) Casa de Chica da Silva (Diamantina) Janeiro) 77
146 128 Catedral Metropolitana (São
Calliari, Ivo 77 Casa dos Contos (Ouro Preto) 130 Paulo) 12, 138, 142
Câmara, Hélder 38 Casa da Cultura (Recife) 223 Catedral Metropolitana de
Camélodromos (street traders) 398– Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado Florianópolis 336
9 (Ilhéus) 204 Catedral Metropolitana Nossa
Campeche 350 Casa de Cultura Mário Quintana Senhora Aparecida (Brasília) 307,
Campina Grande 231, 236 (Porto Alegre) 357 309
festivals 47 Casa Daros (Rio de Janeiro) 85 Catedral Militar de Nossa Senhora
Camping 369 Casa Esperança (São Sebastião) 169 da Paz (Brasília) 308
Campo Grande 326 Casa França-Brasil (Rio de Janeiro) Igreja da Sé (São Luís) 249, 257
hotels 380 75 Nossa Senhora do Amparo
restaurants 395 Casa Histórica do Iphan (Alcântara) (Teresina) 252
Cananéia 175 259 see also Churches
Canasvieras 350 Casa do Maranhão (São Luís) 258 Catholic Church 24, 38
Candomblé 24, 39, 181, 185 Casa Martim Afonso (São Vicente) Cattle
Festa da Boa Morte 201 173 gaúchos 335
Lavagem do Bonfim 199 Casa Museu Mestre Vitalino Rio Grande do Sul 353
Canela 358 (Caruaru) 227 Caves
festivals 47 Casa do Pontal (Barra da Tijuca) 14, Abismo Anhumas 327
hotels 381 91 Gruta do Lago Azul 327
Canion do Itaimbezinho 362 Casa das Rosas (São Paulo) 148 Presidente Figueiredo 288
Cânion Xingó 218 Casa de Santos Dumont (Petrópolis) Ubajara 245
Canoa Quebrada 231, 244 117 Caxias do Sul 353, 360–61
hotels 377 Casa Valduga festivals 45
restaurants 393 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Ceará see Paraíba, Rio Grande do
Canoeing 403 Casaldaliga, Pedro 38 Norte and Ceará
Canudos 210 Cascading 403 Cell phones 416
Canudos War (1897) 210 Cascatinha do Taunay 92 Central West Brazil 295–327
Canyoning 403 Cash machines 414 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins
Capela Dourada (Recife) 222 Castelo Branco, Marshal Humberto 303–17
Capela das Graças 62 creation of a capital 298–9
Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Castles and fortifications flora and fauna in the cerrado
Capela das Neves Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos 300–301
Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Prazeres (Ilha do Mel) 342 map 296–7
Capiberibe, João 275 Fortaleza de Santa Cruz (Niterói) Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do
Capoeira 13, 180, 185, 203 93 Sul 319–27
classes 404, 405 Fortaleza de São José de Macapá Pantanal 324–5
Caracaranã, Lago 292 275 Parque Nacional Chapada dos
Caravelas 205 Forte do Brum (Recife) 221 Veadeiros 303, 304, 316–17
Cardoso, Fernando Henrique 22, 63 Forte das Cinco Pontas (Recife) 221 Centro de Conveções Riocentro
Cardoso, Ilha do 165, 175 Forte de Copacabana 82 (Barra da Tijuca) 91
Caribé 84 Forte Defensor Perpétuo (Paraty) Centro de Cultura Popular (São Luís)
Cariocas 31, 71 111 257, 258
Cariri 236 Forte Junqueira (Corumbá) 326 Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil
Carnatal (Natal) 45 Forte Orange (Ilha de Itamaracá) (Rio de Janeiro) 89
Carnaval 25, 45, 47 227 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil (São
Museu das Cavalhadas Forte do Presépio (Belém) 272 Paulo) 143
(Pirenópolis) 312 Forte Príncipe da Beira 293 Centro Cultural Dannemann (São
Olinda 226 Forte dos Reis Magos (Natal) 240 Félix) 201
Rio de Janeiro 68–9 Forte de Santo Antônio (Salvador) Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar
Salvador 197 13, 197 (Fortaleza) 246
São Paulo 139 Forte de São Felipe (Salvador) Centro Cultural FIESP (São Paulo)
Cars 422–3 198–9 148
driving in São Paulo 159 Castro Maya, Raymundo Ottoni de Centro Cultural Yves Alves
driving in towns 422–3 92 (Tiradentes) 136
gas stations 422 Castrolanda 333 Centro da Lagoa 350
off-road driving 402–3, 405 Cathedrals Centro de Tradições Gaúchas 334
parking 423 Catedral Basílica (Salvador) 190, Centro de Turismo (Fortaleza) 246
Rally dos Sertões 47 192–3 Centro de Turismo (Natal) 240
rental 422, 423 Catedral Basílica de Nossa Senhora Cerrado 27
rules of the road 423 das Neves (João Pessoa) 234 flora and fauna in the cerrado
see also Motor racing; Tours by car Catedral de São Pedro de 300–301
Carstairs, Henrietta 80 Alcântara (Petrópolis) 116 wildlife 29
GENERAL INDEX 431
Ceschiatti, Alfredo Churches (cont.) Clothes

São Mateus 309 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis Afro-Brazilian culture 181
Cézanne, Paul 147 (São João del Rei) 137 Brazilian beach culture 43
Chafariz da Piramide (Rio de Igreja de São Francisco de Assis festivals 46
Janeiro) 74 (São Paulo) 142 gaúcho 334
Chagall, Marc 146, 147 Igreja de São Francisco da in restaurants 382
Chain hotels 368, 369 Penitência (Rio de Janeiro) 76 São Paulo Fashion Week 149
Chapada Diamantina, Parque Igreja de São Jorge (Ilhéus) 204 shopping in Rio de Janeiro 95
Nacional de 13, 208–9 Igreja da Sé (Olinda) 224 shopping in São Paulo 154, 155
Chapada dos Guimarães 322–3 Igreja da Sé (São Luís) 249 what to take 408
Chapada dos Veadeiros, Parque Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Clubs
Nacional 303, 304, 316–17 Francisco (Salvador) 195 Rio de Janeiro 97, 99
hotels 379 Matriz de Nossa Senhora da São Paulo 156–7
restaurants 395 Conceição (Ouro Preto) 131, 132 Coelho, Paulo 25, 35
Children 409 Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar Coelho Pereira, Duarte 217
in hotels 367 (Ouro Preto) 130, 132 Coffee 56–7, 399
in restaurants 383 Matriz Nossa Senhora dos Cog train (Rio de Janeiro) 12, 87
in São Paulo 157 Remédios (Paraty) 111 Coins 415
Cholera 410 Matriz de Santo Antônio Collor de Mello, Fernando 63
Churches (Tiradentes) 136 Colonial literature 35
art 34 Nosso Senhor do Bonfim Communications 416–17
Basílica de Nossa Senhora da (Salvador) 198–9 Communists 59
Asunção (Mariana) 133 Nossa Senhora de Candelária (Rio Composição (Volpi) 144
Basílica de Nossa Senhora de de Janeiro) 75 Comprida, Ilha 175
Nazaré (Belém) 273 Nossa Senhora do Carmo Conceição, Frei Domingos da 34, 76
Basílica de São Pedro dos Clérigos (Diamantina) 128 Conceição, José Eloy da 226
(Mariana) 133 Nossa Senhora das Dores (Paraty) Condamine, Charles-Marie de la 278
Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de 111 Confeitaria Colombo (Rio de
Matosinhos (Congonhas) 134–5 Nossa Senhora do Rosário Janeiro) 12, 76–7
Capela Dourada (Recife) 222 (Diamantina) 128 Congonhas
Capela das Graças (Vale dos Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus de
Vinhedos) 359 Benedito (Paraty) 110 Matosinhos 134–5
Capela das Neves (Vale dos Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos Congresso Nacional e Anexos
Vinhedos) 359 (Paraty) 110 (Brasília) 24, 307
Igreja da Consolação (São Paulo) Santuário Dom Bosco (Brasília) Conselheiro, Antônio 35, 210
143 308 Constable, John 147
Igreja e Convento de São Santuário Santo Antônio do Consulates 413
Francisco (Salvador) 13, 32, 190, Valongo (Santos) 172, 173 Conti, Júlio 193
194–5 São Josafat (Prudentópolis) 333 Convento de São Francisco (Olinda)
Igreja Matriz (São Sebastião) 168, São Miguel das Missões 330, 363 224, 226
169 see also Cathedrals Convento de São Francisco
Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Churrascaria rodízio (barbecue (Penedo) 217
Rosário (Pirenópolis) 312 houses) 383 Convento do São Francisco
Igreja Matriz de São Vicente Mártir Cid brothers 291 (Marechal Deodoro) 218
(São Vicente) 173 Cidade das Artes (Barra da Tijuca) Cooperativa Vinícola Aurora (Bento
Igreja e Mosteiro São Bento 90 Gonçalves) 360
(Olinda) 225, 226 Cidade de Goiás 303, 314 Copacabana 12, 71, 82
Igreja Nossa Senhor do Bonfim festivals 46 festivals 45
(Pirenópolis) 312 Cidade do Samba (Rio de Janeiro) hotels 370–71
Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Carmo 88–9 map 82–3
(Ouro Preto) 131 Cigars restaurants 386
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Corrente São Félix 201 Coral reefs
(Penedo) 217 Cinelândia (Rio de Janeiro) 77 Maracajaú 242
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do Cinema 25, 62, 400–401 Corpus Christi 47
Outeiro (Rio de Janeiro) 79 Cinelândia (Rio de Janeiro) 77 Corumbá 326
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário festivals 44, 47 Costa, Cláudio Manuel da 35
dos Pretos (Salvador) 191 James Bond’s Moonraker 81 Costa, Lúcio 153
Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Museu Carmen Miranda (Rio de Brasília 299, 306
Francisco (Salvador) 191 Janeiro) 79 Museu das Missões (São Miguel
Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 das Missões) 363
(Penedo) 217 São Paulo 157 Costa, Manuel da see Athayde,
Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena shopping in São Paulo 154, 155 Mestre
(Marechal Deodoro) 218 Circo Voador (Rio de Janeiro) 12, Costa, Manuel Inácio da 194
Igreja de São Francisco (João 78 Costa Branca 243
Pessoa) 234 Círio de Nazaré (Belém) 44 Costa Coelho, Caetano da 76
Igreja São Francisco (Recife) 222 Climate 48–9 Costa do Sauípe 211
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis wet and dry seasons 26 hotels 374
(Belo Horizonte) 129 Climbing Costa e Silva, Artur da 62
Igreja da São Francisco de Assis Sugar Loaf Mountain (Rio de Costa do Sul
(Ouro Preto) 124, 131, 132 Janeiro) 80 beaches 120–21
432 GENERAL INDEX
Costa Verde (Green Coast) 114 Disabled travelers 409 Estação da Luz (São Paulo) 13,
A week on the Costa Verde 14 in hotels 367 146
Crafts Discounts Estação Pinacoteca (São Paulo)
Afro-Brazilian culture 181 air travel 420 146
Crafts shops 399 entertainment 400 Estádio do Maracanã (Rio de
Mercado Modelo (Salvador) Diving 403 Janeiro) 12, 88
196 Fernando de Noronha 229 Estado Nôvo 59, 60, 151
Rio de Janeiro 95 Docks (Rio de Janeiro) 76 Estância Mimosa 327
São Paulo 155 Doctors 411 Estrada de Ferro Central do Brasil
Cravo, Mario Dois Irmãos 213 (Amaral) 152
A Cruz Caida 187 Domingas Dias 168 Estrada Graciosa 341
Credit cards 412, 414–15 Dorivã 313 Estrada Parque 204
in hotels 366 Doyle, Sir Arthur Conan 262 Estrada Real 125
in restaurants 382 Drape, Dorothy 117 Etiquette 409
in shops 398 Drinks Eu, Count d’ 116
Crime 412–13 shopping in São Paulo 154, 155 tomb 116
São Paulo 159 see also Food and drink European immigrants 30
Crispim 253 Drummond, Carlos 35 Evangelical Protestantism 38–9
Cristalino Jungle Lodge 296, 323 Dry season 26 Evans, Cliford 274
Cristo de Rapadura (Dias) 151 Dunes Events 44–7
Cristo Redentor (Rio de Janeiro) 12, buggies 245 Expoflora (Holambra) 44
21, 86–7 Costa Branca 243
Cruises 425 Genipabu 242 F
Cruls, Luiz 298 Natal 240 Famiglia Tasca
Cuiabá 15, 322 Dutch immigrants 333 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359
hotels 379 Dutra, General Eurico 59, 117 Faria, Captain Rodrigues de 198
restaurants 395 Duty-free allowances 419 Fascism 59, 60
Cunha, Euclides da 34, 35, 58, 210 Fashion see Clothes
Curitiba 331, 337, 340, 348–9 E Favelas
hotels 380 Eckhout, Albert 223 Rio de Janeiro 89
restaurants 396 Eclectic architecture 33 safety 412
Currency 414–15 Economy 22–3 Fernando de Noronha 179, 228–9
Curucirari people Ecoparque Sperry 358 hotels 376
architecture 32 Ecosystems 22, 28–9 map 215, 228–9
Cururupe 204 Ecotourism 402, 405 restaurants 392
Cururupu 259 Edifício Banespa (São Paulo) 12, Fernando de Noronha, Parque
Customs and duty free 419 138, 143 Nacional Marinho de 213, 228
Cycling 403, 405 Edifício Itália (São Paulo) 12, 143 Ferradurinha 121
Eiffel, Gustave 284 Fest Verão Paraíba (João Pessoa)
D Einstein, Albert 84, 86 45
Dams Eisenhower, Dwight D 298, 299 Festa do Bembé do Mercado
Italpu Binacional 15, 346 Eixo Monumental (Brasília) 306 (Santo Amaro) 46
Xingó 218 Electricity 409 Festa da Boa Morte 201
Dance 400 Elevador Lacerda (Salvador) 13, Festa do Boi Bumbá (Parintins) 47,
classes 404, 405 193 291
festivals 47 Elizabeth II, Queen of England 93 Festa do Bumba-meu-boi (São Luis)
frevo 221 Emas, Parque Nacional das 315 47, 258
gaúcho 335 Emergencies 411, 423 Festa do Divino Espírito Santo 46,
Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Encontro das Aguas 289 313
São Paulo 156, 157 Enseada de Botafogo 25 Festa Literária Internacional de
Dance bars Entertainment 400–401 Paraty 47
São Paulo 156–7 bars, cafés and botecos 401 Festa Nacional da Maçã (São
Dannemann, Gerhard 201 cinema 400–401 Joaquim) 46
Darwin, Charles 84 discount tickets and free events Festa Nacional da Uva (Caxias do
David, Jacques-Louis 147 400 Sul) 45
Debret, Jean-Baptiste 34, 78 gardens and theme parks 401 Festa da Nossa Senhora das Neves
Dedo de Deus 119 information and booking 400 (João Pessoa) 47
Delta do Parnaíba 254–5 performing arts 400 Festa do Peão de Boiadeiro
Dengue fever 410 Rio de Janeiro 96–9 (Barretos) 47
Deodoro da Fonseca, Marechal São Paulo 156–7 Festa do Pinhão (Lages) 47
Manuel 58, 218 soccer matches 401 Festa Santa Bárbara (Salvador) 45
Di Cavalcanti, Emiliano 34, 147 Ernst, Max 152 Festa de São Lázaro (Salvador) 45
Dialing codes 416 Espaço Cultural da Marinha (Rio de Festas Juninas 46–7, 236
Diamantina 67, 125, 126, 128 Janeiro) 75, 92, 93 Festas dos Ticumbi & Alardo
Diamonds Espírito Santo see Rio de Janeiro (Itaúnas) 45
Lençóis 208 and Espírito Santo Festival de Gramado 47
Dias, Caetano Esplanada dos Ministérios (Brasília) Festival de Inverno (São Paulo)
Cristo de Rapadura 151 307 47
Dinosaur tracks Estaçáo das Docas (Belém) 272 Festival Internacional da Dança
Souza 236 Estação Ecológica Juréia-Itatins 174 (Joinville) 47
GENERAL INDEX 433
Festivals 44–7 Foz do Iguaçu 15, 330, 337, 344–7 Gresnicht, Adelbert 34
Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro 68–9 Foz do Iguaçu (town) 346 Grumari (Rio de Janeiro) 91
Lavagem do Bonfim 199 hotels 380–81 Gruta do Lago Azul 327
Figueiredo, General João 62, 63 restaurants 396 Guanabara Bay 71, 80, 92
Film see Cinema France 54–5 Guaraní people 353, 362
First Republic 58 Franco, Siron 34 Guarapari 122
Fiscal, Ilha 92–3 Frevo 221 Guarujá 165, 169
Fish and seafood Freyre, Gilberto 35 hotels 374
The flavors of Brazil 384–5 Friedenreich, Artur 40 restaurants 391
Fishing 403 Fruit Guimarães Rosa, João 35
festivals 44 The flavors of Brazil 385
Fittipaldi, Emerson 25 Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado H
Flamengo (Rio de Janeiro) (Salvador) 191, 192 Hals, Franz 147
hotels 371 Fundação Eva Klabin (Lagoa Hatoum, Milton 35
restaurants 386–7 Rodrigo de Freitas) 84 Health 410–11
Flora and fauna 28–9 Fundação Pinacoteca Benedito Helicopter tours
in the cerrado 300–301 Calixto (Santos) 172, 173 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99
Pantanal 301 Hell, Maximiliano 142, 143
see also Wildlife G Higienópolis (São Paulo City)
Flores da Cunha 361 Gafieira restaurants 389
Florianópolis 331, 337, 338, 350–51 Rio de Janeiro 97, 99 History 51–63
flight duration chart 421 Gainsborough, Thomas 147 Holambra
hotels 380 Galleries see Museums and galleries festivals 44
restaurants 396 Gama, José Basilio da 35 Holanda, Sérgio Buarque de 35
Flowers Gardens see Parks and gardens Holbein, Hans 147
Brazil’s Flora and fauna 28–9 Garibaldi 360 Holidays, public 47
Expoflora (Holambra) 44 Garrincha 40 Homem do Norte (Manaus) 284
Food and drink Gas stations 422 Horse racing
barreado 343 Gaúchos 334–5 Jóquei Clube Brasileiro (Rio de
Brazilian beach culture 42 Rio Grande do Sul 353 Janeiro) 84
festivals 47 Gay and lesbian travelers Rio de Janeiro 98, 99
The flavors of Brazil 384–5 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Horses
The flavors of Northeast Brazil Geisel, Ernesto 62, 63 gaúchos 335
182–3 Gems, shopping 399 Hospitals 411
gaúcho 335 Génio do Repouso Eterno (Rodin) 145 Hot-Air Balloon Festival (Torres) 46
safety 411 Genipabu 242 Hotel das Cataratas Belmond 15
shopping 399 restaurants 393 Hotel Unique (São Paulo) 33, 150
shopping in São Paulo 154, 155 German immigrants 332 Hotels 366–81
see also Restaurants; Wines Getz, Stan 36, 83 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and
Football see Soccer Gil, Gilberto 36, 37 Rondônia 378–9
Ford, Henry 278–9 Gilberto, Astrud 83 apart-hotels 368
Fordlândia 278–9 Gilberto, Bebel 37 Bahia 374–5
Forró 240 Gilberto, João 83 booking 366, 369
Fortal (Fortaleza) 47 Giorgi, Bruno 84 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 379
Fortaleza 233, 238–9, 246–7 Os Candangos 302, 307 budget options 369
festivals 47 Gipóia, Ilha da 114 chain hotels 368, 369
flight duration chart 421 “The Girl from Ipanema” 83 children in 367
hotels 377 Glaziou, Auguste 88 disabled travelers 367
map 246–7 GLBT Parade (São Paulo) 47 Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do
restaurants 393 Goiás see Brasília, Goiás and Sul 379–80
Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos Tocantins Minas Gerais 373
Prazeres (Ilha do Mel) 342 Gold 55 Pará and Amapá 378
Fortaleza de Santa Cruz (Niterói) 93 Golden Law (1888) 57 Piauí and Maranhão 377
Fortaleza de São José de Macapá Gonçalves, Andre 92 pousadas 366, 368, 369
275 Gonzaga, Luiz 227, 237 prices and payments 366–7
Forte do Brum (Recife) 221 Gonzaga, Tomás Antônio 35 resorts 368
Forte das Cinco Pontas (Recife) 221 Goulart, João 62 Rio de Janeiro City 370–71
Forte de Copacabana 82 Governador, Ilha do 92 Rio de Janeiro State and Espírito
Forte Defensor Perpétuo (Paraty) Goya y Lucientes, Francisco José Santo 372–3
111 147 Rio Grande do Sul 381
Forte Junqueira (Corumbá) 326 Gramado 358 Santa Catarina and Paraná 380–81
Forte Orange (Ilha de Itamaracá) festivals 47 São Paulo City 373–4
227 hotels 381 São Paulo State 374
Forte do Presépio (Belém) 272 restaurants 397 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco
Forte Príncipe da Beira 293 Grande, Ilha 14, 107, 114 375–6
Forte dos Reis Magos (Natal) 240 hotels 372 tipping 367
Forte de Santo Antônio (Salvador) Grande Carajás 269 Hydroelectricity
13, 197 El Greco 147 Italpu Binacional 15, 346
Forte de São Felipe (Salvador) 198–9 Green Coast see Costa Verde Hygiene 411
Foua, João 278 Green Line see Linha Verde Hypermarkets 398
434 GENERAL INDEX
I Independence Day 47 Jaú, Parque Nacional 289

Identification 413 Indigenous peoples 30 Jericoacoara 231, 244–5
Igapó forest 325 architecture 32 hotels 377
Igreja da Consolação (São Paulo) history 51, 52 Jesuits 38
143 Museu do Índio (Manaus) 15, 285 colonization of Brazil 53
Igreja e Convento de São Francisco Museu do Índio (Rio de Janeiro) literature 35
(Salvador) 13, 32, 190, 194–5 12, 85 The rise and collapse of Jesuit
Igreja Matriz (São Sebastião) 168, Museu do Índio Marechal Rondon missions 362
169 (Cuiabá) 322 São Miguel das Missões 330,
Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora do The people of Amazônia 266–7 363
Rosário (Pirenópolis) 312 religion 39 São Paulo City 139, 142
Igreja Matriz de São Vicente Mártir slavery 54 Jesus, José Teófilo de 216
(São Vicente) 173 see also individual tribes Jewelry
Igreja e Mosteiro São Bento (Olinda) Instituto Butantã (São Paulo) 13, Afro-Brazilian culture 181
225, 226 152–3 buying gems 399
Igreja Nossa Senhor do Bonfim Instituto de Desenvolvimento shopping in Rio de Janeiro 94,
(Pirenópolis) 312 Sustentável Mamirauá 291 95
Igreja da Nossa Senhora do Carmo Instituto Itaú Cultural (São Paulo) Jews 39, 333
(Ouro Preto) 131 148 Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Corrente Instituto Ricardo Brennand (Recife) (Recife) 220–21
(Penedo) 217 223 Joanes 274
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do Integralistas 59, 60 João III, Dom 52, 53, 54
Outeiro (Rio de Janeiro) 79 International Book Biennial (São João VI, Dom 56, 74
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Paulo) 46 Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do
Pretos (Salvador) 191 International Festival of Culture and Outeiro (Rio de Janeiro) 79
Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Gastronomy (Tiradentes) 47 Jardim Botânico (Rio de Janeiro)
Francisco (Salvador) 191 International Fishing Festival 84
Igreja de Santa Maria dos Anjos (Cáceres) 44 Museu Nacional de Belas Artes
(Penedo) 217 International Puppet Theater (Rio de Janeiro) 78
Igreja de Santa Maria Madalena Festival 47 Museu Nacional (Rio de Janeiro)
(Marechal Deodoro) 218 Internet 417 88
Igreja de São Francisco (João Ipanema 12, 83 João Pessoa 231, 232, 234–5
Pessoa) 234 hotels 371 festivals 45, 47
Igreja São Francisco (Recife) 222 map 82–3 hotels 376
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis restaurants 387 map 235
(Belo Horizonte) 129 Iracema 247 restaurants 393
Igreja da São Francisco de Assis Isabel, Princess Jobim, Antônio Carlos (“Tom”) 36,
(Ouro Preto) 124, 131, 132 abolition of slavery 77, 78 83, 97
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (São Petrópolis 116 John XXIII, Pope 38
João del Rei) 137 tomb 116 John Paul II, Pope 79, 86, 88, 308
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis (São Islam 39 Joinville
Paulo) 142 Itacaré 204 festivals 47
Igreja de São Francisco da hotels 374 Jóquei Clube Brasileiro (Rio de
Penitência (Rio de Janeiro) 76 restaurants 391 Janeiro) 84
Igreja de São Jorge (Ilhéus) 204 Italian immigrants 333 Jorge, Seu 78
Igreja da Sé (Olinda) 224 Italpu Binacional 15, 346 Juazeiro do Norte
Igreja da Sé (São Luís) 249, 257 Itamaracá, Ilha de 227 festivals 44
Igreja Terceira Ordem de São Itaparica, Ilha de 13, 200 Judaism 39
Francisco (Salvador) 195 Itapuã 199 Júnior, Almeida 147
Iguaçu, Foz do 15, 330, 337, 344–7 Itatiaia, Parque Nacional 107, 108, Caipira Picando Fumo 145
Iguaçu, Parque Nacional do 344, 115 Junta, military 62
346 Itaúnas 107, 123
Iguape 174–5 festivals 45 K
Iguazú, Parque Nacional 15, 347 Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue (Recife)
Ilha see islands by name J 220–21
Ilhabela 14, 165, 169 Jalapão 305, 314–15 Kardec, Allan 39
hotels 374 Japanese immigrants 31, 173, 333 Kayapó malocas (longhouses)
restaurants 391 Liberdade (São Paulo) 149 32
Ilhabela Sailing Week 47 religion 39 Kayapó people 267
Ilhéus 204 Jardim de Alá 199 Kitesurfing 403
hotels 374 Jardim Botânico (Rio de Janeiro) 12, Klabin, Eva 84
Immigration 24, 30–31 84 Kubitschek, Juscelino 62, 79
Japanese 173 restaurants 387–8 Belo Horizonte 125, 129
multicultural Southern Brazil 332– Jardim Botânico (São Paulo) 153 Brasília 298, 299, 306, 308
3 Jardim Zoológico (Rio de Janeiro) bust of 304
regulations 418 88 Museu de Juscelino Kubitschek
Imperial Museum (Petrópolis) 118– Jardins and Avenida Paulista (São (Diamantina) 128
19 Paulo) Palácio Rio Negro (Petrópolis)
Inconfidência Mineira rebellion hotels 373 116
(1789) 55, 130, 131 restaurants 389–90 Kuerten, Gustavo 25
GENERAL INDEX 435
L Madeira-Mamoré Museu Ferroviário Maps (cont.)

Labor Day 47 (Porto Velho) 262, 281, 293 Parque Nacional Chapada dos
Lacerda, Antônio Francisco de Mãe Douro (Calixto) 172 Veadeiros 316–17
193 Magazines 417 Parque Nacional do Lençóis
Lages shopping in São Paulo 155 Maranhenses 254–5
festivals 47 Mail services 417 Parque Nacional de Serra do
Lagoa see lakes by name Malfatti, Anita 34, 146, 152 Capivara 252–3
Lajedo de Soledade 243 Tropical 145 Petrópolis 116–17
Lampião 217 Mamori, Lago 290 Piauí and Maranhão 250–51
Landowski, Paul 86 Manaquiri, Lago 290 Pirenópolis 313
Landscape 26–7 Manatees Porto Alegre 356
The Amazon ecosystem 264–5 Projeto Peixe Bot (Ilha de Recife 220–21
sertão 237 Itamaracá) 227 Rio de Janeiro 72–3
Languages 21, 408 Manaus 15, 281, 284–91 Rio de Janeiro: Greater Rio de
classes 404, 405 airport 419 Janeiro City 73
Lapa (Rio de Janeiro) 12, 78 Amazon excursions from 288–91 Rio de Janeiro: Street Finder
Laranjeiras 112 climate 48 100–105
Latifundia 58 flight duration chart 421 Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo
Lavagem do Bonfim (Salvador) 45, hotels 378 108–9
181, 199 map 285 Rio Grande do Sul 354–5
Lázaro 168 restaurants 394 Rota do Sol beaches 241
Le Corbusier 33, 153, 299 Teatro Amazonas 286–7 Salvador 188–9
and Brasília 298, 308 Manet, Edouard 147 Salvador: Greater Salvador 189
Leblon 12, 83 Manguezal de Vitória 122 Salvador: Pelourinho 190–91
hotels 371 Mantegna, Andrea 147 Salvador’s Atlantic coast 198–9
map 82–3 Manuel I, Emperor of Portugal 52 Santa Catarina and Paraná 338–9
restaurants 387 Maps São Luís 256–7
Leme Amazon excursions from Manaus São Paulo 140–41
hotels 370–71 288 São Paulo: Street finder 158–63
restaurants 386 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and São Paulo State 167
Lemos de Gonzaga family 217 Rondônia 282–3 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco
Lempião 243 Bahia 186–7 214–15
Lençóis 13, 178, 208 Barra 90 Serra da Graciosa 341
hotels 374 Belém 273 Southeast Brazil 18–19, 66–7
restaurants 391 Brasília 306–7 Southern Brazil 330–31
Lençóis, Ilha dos 259 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 304–5 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359
Lençóis Maranhenses, Parque Brasília: Greater Brasília 16 Maracá, Ilha do 292
Nacional do 249, 251, 254–5 Brazil 16–17 Maracajaú 242
restaurants 394 Central and South America 17 Marajó, Ilha de 263, 269, 271, 274
Leo III, Pope 77 Central West Brazil 296–7 hotels 378
Leopoldina, Empress 88 Climate of Brazil 48–9 Maranhão see Piauí and Maranhão
tomb 152 Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon Marcelino, Antônio 192
Liberation Theology 34, 38 82–3 Marechal Deodoro 218
Liberdade (São Paulo) 13, 149 Costa do Sul: beaches 120–21 Maresias 14, 169
restaurants 390 Delta do Parnaíba 254–5 hotels 374
Lima, Joaquin Eugenio de 148 Fernando de Noronha 215, 228–9 Maria Bonita 217
Linha Verde (Green Line) 13, 211 Florianópolis and Ilha de Santa Maria Eugenia 313
Linnaeus, Carl 153 Catarina 350–51 Mariana 133
Lisboa, Manuel Francisco 132 Fortaleza 246–7 Maricá 120
Lispector, Clarice 35 Foz do Iguaçu 346 Marina da Glória 92, 93
Literature 25, 35 João Pessoa 235 Marinho de Abrolhos, Parque
The Litorina 341 The landscapes of Brazil 26–7 Nacional 185, 205
Lodges 366, 369 Linha Verde 211 Markets 398–9
Lopes Mendes 114 Manaus 285 Casa da Cultura (Recife) 223
Louis XIII, King of France 249 Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Macapá 275
Loureiro, Rita 284 Sul 320–21 Mercado Central (Fortaleza) 246
Luis, Washington 60 Minas Gerais 126–7 Mercado Modelo (Salvador) 196
Lula da Silva, Luiz Inácio 22, 23, 63, Northeast Brazil 178–9 Mercado Municipal Adolfo Lisboa
139 Northern Brazil 262–3 (Manaus) 284
Olinda 224–5 Mercado Público (Porto Alegre)
M Ouro Preto 130–31 356
Macapá 269, 270, 275 Pantanal 324–5 Mercado Ribeira (Olinda) 225
hotels 378 Pará and Amapá 270–71 Marumbi, Parque Estadual de 341
restaurants 394 Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and Mata Atlântica (Atlantic forest) 27,
Maceió 218–19 Ceará 232–3 63, 107, 108, 113, 125, 165, 167
hotels 375 Paraty 111 Salvador 13, 198–9
restaurants 392 Paraty: beaches and islands Parque Nacional de Superagui 343
Machado de Assis, Joaquim Maria around 112 Pedra Azul 123
34, 35 Parque Nacional de Chapada Serra da Graciosa 341
Madeira, Rio 281, 282 Diamantina 208–9 wildlife 29
436 GENERAL INDEX
Matisse, Henri 152 Mirante do Morro do Espio (Iguape) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do 174 Casa Histórica do Iphan
Sul 319–27 Mireilles, Fernando 25 (Alcântara) 259
hotels 379–80 Missão Cruls 298 Casa do Maranhão (São Luís) 258
map 320–21 Misteriosa, Lagoa 318 Casa Martim Afonso (São Vicente)
Pantanal 324–5 Modernism 173
restaurants 395 architecture 33 Casa Museu Mestre Vitalino
Matos, Gregório de 35 literature 35 (Caruaru) 227
Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Modigliani, Amadeo 152 Casa do Pontal (Barra da Tijuca) 91
Conceição (Ouro Preto) 131, 132 Monasteries and convents Centro de Cultura Popular (São
Matriz de Nossa Senhora do Pilar Convento da Nossa Senhora da Luís) 257, 258
(Ouro Preto) 130, 132 Penha (Vitória) 122 Centro Cultural do Banco do Brasil
Matriz Nossa Senhora dos Remédios Convento de São Francisco (Rio de Janeiro) 89
(Paraty) 111 (Olinda) 224, 226 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil
Matriz de Santo Antônio Convento de São Francisco (São Paulo) 143
(Tiradentes) 136 (Penedo) 217 Centro Cultural Dannemann (São
Mauá, Visconde de 146 Convento do São Francisco Félix) 201
Maurice of Nassau 223 (Marechal Deodoro) 218 Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar
Mayrink Chapel (Tijuca) 92 Convento de São Francisco (Fortaleza) 246
Meat (Salvador) 32, 190, 194–5 Centro Cultural Yves Alves
The flavors of Brazil 384 Mosteiro de São Bento (João (Tiradentes) 136
Media 416–17 Pessoa) 234 Espaço Cultural da Marinha (Rio
Medical care 410–11 Mosteiro de São Bento (Rio de de Janeiro) 75, 92, 93
Médici, General 62–3 Janeiro) 76 Estação Pinacoteca (São Paulo) 146
Meggers, Betty 274 Mosteiro São Bento (São Paulo) Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado
Meireles, Vitor 78 142–3 (Salvador) 191, 192
Meirelles, Fernando 89 Money 414–15 Fundação Eva Klabin (Lagoa
Mel, Ilha do 342–3 Monte Alegre 279 Rodrigo de Freitas) 84
Mello, Francisco de 57 Monte Roraima 262, 292 Fundação Pinacoteca Benedito
Memling, Hans 147 Monte Roraima, Parque Nacional de Calixto (Santos) 172, 173
Memorial das Conquistas (Santos) 292 Homem do Norte (Manaus) 284
173 Monumento às Bandeiras (São Imperial Museum (Petrópolis)
Memorial do Rio Grande do Sul Paulo) 150 118–19
(Porto Alegre) 357 Moonraker (film) 81 Instituto Itaú Cultural (São Paulo)
Memorial do Vinho Moore, Roger 81 148
Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Moraes, Vinícius de 35, 36, 83, 97 Instituto Ricardo Brennand (Recife)
Memorial dos Povos Indígenas Moriconi, Roberto 84 223
(Brasília) 306 Morretes 341 Madeira-Mamoré Museu
Mendes, Chico 281, 293 hotels 381 Ferroviário (Porto Velho) 262, 281,
Mendes, Feliciano 134 Morro Branco 231 293
Mendes, Sergio 36 Morro do Corcovado (Rio de Museu Abelardo Rodrigues Solar
Mercado Central (Fortaleza) 246 Janeiro) 12, 86–7 do Ferrão (Salvador) 191
Mercado Modelo (Salvador) 13, 196 Morro do Pai Inácio 208 Museu do Açude (Tijuca) 92
Mercado Municipal Adolfo Lisboa Morro do Pico 215, 229 Museu Afro Brasil (São Paulo) 150
(Manaus) 284 Morro de São Paulo 13, 202 Museu Afro-Brasileiro (Salvador)
Mercado Público (Porto Alegre) hotels 375 190, 192
356 restaurants 391 Museu do Antônio Prado 361
Mercado Ribeira (Olinda) 225 Morro da Urca (Rio de Janeiro) 12, 80 Museu de Arqueologia e
Mercury, Daniela 37 Mossoró 243 Etnologia (Paranaguá) 342
Meros, Ilha dos 112 Mosteiro de São Bento (João Museu de Arqueológia de Xingó
Metro 426–7 Pessoa) 234 (Cânion Xingó) 218
Mileage chart 19 Mosteiro de São Bento (Rio de Museu Arquidiocesano de Arte
Miller, Charles 40 Janeiro) 76 Sacra (Rio de Janeiro) 77
Millet, Jean François 147 Mosteiro São Bento (São Paulo) Museu de Arte Assis
Minas Gerais 12, 15, 21, 125–37 142–3 Chateaubriand (Campina Grande)
Basílica do Nossa Senhor Bom Motels 369 236
Jesus de Matosinhos (Congonhas) Moto-taxis 426 Museu de Arte da Bahia (Salvador)
134–5 Motor racing 25, 44 197
festivals 46 Autódromo Internacional Nelson Museu de Arte Contemporânea
hotels 373 Piquet (Barra da Tijuca) 91 (Niterói) 93
map 126–7 Mountain biking 403, 405 Museu de Arte Contemporânea
restaurants 388–9 Mulattoes 31 (Olinda) 225, 226
Mines 269 Mundaú, Lagoa 219 Museu de Arte Contemporânea
Ministry of Education (Rio de Museums and galleries (São Paulo) 152
Janeiro) 33, 61 Bolsa e Museu do Café (Santos) Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM,
Miranda 326 172, 173 Rio de Janeiro) 78–9
hotels 380 Cafua das Mercês (São Luís) 258 Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM,
Miranda, Carmen 25, 61, 75 Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado São Paulo) 13, 151
Museu Carmen Miranda (Rio de (Ilhéus) 204 Museu de Arte Moderna
Janeiro) 79 Casa Daros (Rio de Janeiro) 85 (Salvador) 13, 196
GENERAL INDEX 437
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) N

Museu de Arte do Rio Grande do Museu do Mamulengo (Olinda) Naming of Brazil 53
Sul (Porto Alegre) 357 225, 226 Napoleon I, Emperor 56, 74
Museu de Arte Sacra (Cidade de Museu de Microbiologia (São Natal 179, 231, 240
Goiás) 314 Paulo) 153 festivals 45
Museu de Arte Sacra (Curitiba) 340 Museu Mineiro (Belo Horizonte) 129 hotels 376
Museu de Arte Sacra (Iguape) 175 Museu das Missões (São Miguel restaurants 393
Museu de Arte Sacra (Mariana) 133 das Missões) 363 National Handicraft Fair (Belo
Museu de Arte Sacra (Salvador) 13, Museu Municipal (Cananéia) 175 Horizonte) 44
196 Museu Municipal (Caxias do Sul) National parks
Museu de Arte Sacra (São 361 Aparados da Serra 353, 354, 362
Cristóvão) 216 Museu Nacional (Rio de Janeiro) 88 Chapada Diamantina 13, 208–9
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Paulo) Museu Nacional de Belas Artes Chapada dos Veadeiros 303, 304,
13, 146 (Rio de Janeiro) 78 316–17
Museu de Arte Sacra (São Museu Nacional Honestino Emas 315
Sebastião) 168, 169 Guimarães (Brasília) 307 Fernando de Noronha 213, 228
Museu de Arte Sacra de Santarém Museu Oscar Niemeyer (Curitiba) Iguaçu 344, 346
278, 279 340 Iguazú 15, 347
Museu de Arte de São Paulo Museu Padre Anchieta (São Paulo) Itatiaia 107, 108, 115
(MASP) 11, 13, 147 142 Jaú 289
Museu das Bandeiras (Cidade de Museu do Pantanal (Corumbá) 326 Lençóis Maranhenses 254–5
Goiás) 314 Museu Paranaense (Curitiba) 340 Marinho de Abrolhos 185, 205
Museu do Barro (Caruaru) 227 Museu Paulista do Ipiranga (São Monte Roraima 292
Museu da Borrachá (Rio Branco) 293 Paulo) 152 Pantanal Matogrossense 324
Museu Cais do Sertão (Recife) 221 Museu do Piauí (Teresina) 252 Serra da Canastra 66, 125, 127,
Museu Carmen Miranda (Rio de Museu de Porto Seguro 205 137
Janeiro) 79 Museu Regional de São João del Serra do Capivara 252–3
Museu Casa do Diamante Rei 137 Serra do Cipó 125, 129
(Diamantina) 128 Museu da República (Rio de Serra dos Órgãos 107, 119
Museu Casa de Pedra (Caxias do Janeiro) 79 Sete Cidades 250, 253
Sul) 361 Museu Rodin-Bahia (Salvador) 197 Superagui 343
Museu Casa de Rui Barbosa (Rio Museu SACACA (Macapá) 275 Tijuca 12, 87, 92
de Janeiro) 85 Museu de Santarém 278, 279 Ubajara 231, 245
Museu das Cavalhadas Museu Seleção Brasileira (Barra da Negro, Rio 281, 284, 288, 289
(Pirenópolis) 312 Tijuca) 90–91 Neo-Classical architecture 32
Museu do Ceará (Fortaleza) 246 Museu Tempostal (Salvador) 192 Nestrovski, Arthur 146
Museu da Família Pompeu Museu Théo Brandão (Maceió) Netherlands 54–5
(Pirenópolis) 312 218–19 Neves, Tancredo 62, 63
Museu Ferroviário (São João del Museu Villa-Lobos (Rio de Janeiro) Newspapers 417
Rei) 137 85 Niemeyer, Oscar 33, 299
Museu do Futbol (São Paulo) 13, Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco Belo Horizonte 125, 129
148–9 Brennand (Recife) 223 Brasília 297, 298, 306
Museu da Gentre Sergipana Oi Futuro Ipanema (Rio de Catedral Metropolitana Nossa
(Aracaju) 216 Janeiro) 79 Senhora Aparecida (Brasília) 307,
Museu Histórico e Arqueológico Palacete Provincial (Manaus) 284 309
(Iguape) 174–5 Palácio Rio Branco 292–3 Catedral Militar de Nossa Senhora
Museu Histórico Nacional (Rio de Pinacoteca do Estado (São Paulo) da Paz (Brasília) 308
Janeiro) 78 13, 144–5 Congreso Nacional e Anexos
Museu da Imagem e do Som Solar do Unhão (Salvador) 13 (Brasília) 307
(Copacabana) 82 Usina do Gasômetro (Porto Museu de Art Contemporãnea
Museu da Imigração Japonesa Alegre) 357 (Niterói) 93
(São Paulo) 149 Music 25, 36–7, 404, 405 Museu Oscar Niemeyer (Curitiba)
Museu da Imigração Polonesa Afro-Brazilian culture 180 340
(Curitiba) 333 capoeira 203, 404, 405 Palácio do Planalto (Brasília) 307
Museu do Imigrante (Bento forró 240 Parque Burle Marx (São Paulo) 153
Gonçalves) 360 frevo 221 Parque do Ibirapuera (São Paulo)
Museu Imperial (Petrópolis) 32 gaúcho 335 150, 151
Museu do Índio (Manaus) 15, 285 “The Girl from Ipanema” 83 Sambódromo (Rio de Janeiro) 69,
Museu do Índio (Rio de Janeiro) Museu da Imagem e do Som 88–9
12, 85 (Copacabana) 82 São Paulo 143
Museu do Índio Marechal Rondon Museu Villa-Lobos (Rio de Janeiro) Niterói 93
(Cuiabá) 322 85 Nóbrega, Manuel da 139
Museu da Inconfidência (Ouro repentistas 243 Northeast Brazil 177–259
Preto) 131 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Afro-Brazilian culture 180–81
Museu Internacional de Arte Naïf São Paulo 156, 157 Bahia 185–211
(Rio de Janeiro) 12, 87 shopping in Rio de Janeiro 95 The flavors of Northeast Brazil
Museu Júlio de Castilhos (Porto shopping in São Paulo 154, 155 182–3
Alegre) 356 Música popular Brasileira 37 map 178–9
Museu de Juscelino Kubitschek Muslims 39 Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and
(Diamantina) 128 Mussolini, Benito 60 Ceará 231–47
438 GENERAL INDEX
Northeast Brazil (cont.) Orquidário Aranda (Teresópolis) 119 Paraty 14, 107, 109, 110–12
Piauí and Maranhão 249–59 Os Candangos (Giorgio) 302, 307 beaches 112
Rota do Sol beaches 241 Osório, General Manuel Luis festivals 47
Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco statue of 74 hotels 372
213–29 Otávio Rocha 361 map 111
sertão 237 Our Lady of Aparecida Day 47 restaurants 388
Northern Brazil 261–93 Ouro Preto 125, 126, 130–32 Paraty-Mirim 112
The Amazon ecosystem 264–5 hotels 373 Parintins 291
Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and restaurants 389 festivals 47
Rondônia 281–93 Street-by-Street map 130–31 Parking 423
map 262–3 Outdoor activities 402–5 Parks and gardens 401
Pará and Amapá 269–79 Bosque Papa João Paulo II
The people of Amazônia 266–7 P Memorial Polonês (Curitiba) 340
Northern Highlands 26 Paço da Alfândega (Recife) 220 Jardim Botânico (Rio de Janeiro)
Nosso Senhor do Bonfim (Salvador) Paço do Frevo (Recife) 221 12, 84
198–9 Paço Imperial (Rio de Janeiro) Jardim Botânico (São Paulo) 153
Nossa Senhora do Amparo Street-by-Street map 74 Museu Nacional (Rio de Janeiro)
(Teresina) 252 Padre Cícero Pilgrimage (Juazeiro 88
Nossa Senhora de Candelária (Rio do Norte) 44 Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco
de Janeiro) Pagodinho, Zeca 36 Brennand (Recife) 223
Street-by-Street map 75 Palace of Justice (São Paulo) 138 Orquidário Aranda (Teresópolis)
Nossa Senhora do Carmo Palacete Provincial (Manaus) 284 119
(Diamantina) 128 Palácio Antônio Lemos (Belém) 272 Parque Aldeia do Imigrante (Nova
Nossa Senhora das Dores (Paraty) Palácio Conde dos Arcos (Cidade de Petrópolis ) 357
111 Goiás) 314 Parque Burle Marx (São Paulo) 153
Nossa Senhora do Monte do Carmo Palácio do Itamaraty (Brasília) 303, Parque da Catacumba (Lagoa
(Rio de Janeiro) 74 308 Rodrigo de Freitas) 84
Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes Palácio de Justiça (Brasília) 307, 308 Parque do Ibirapuera (São Paulo)
(Porto Alegre) 45 Palácio do Planalto (Brasília) 307, 150–51
Nossa Senhora do Rosário 308 Parque Trianon (São Paulo) 148
(Diamantina) 128 Palácio Rio Branco (Rio Branco) Quinta da Boa Vista (Rio de
Nossa Senhora do Rosário e São 292–3 Janeiro) 88
Benedito (Paraty) 110 Palácio Rio Branco (Salvador) 193 Sitio Roberto Burle Marx (Barra da
Nova Jerusalém 227 Palácio Rio Negro (Manaus) 284–5 Tijuca) 14, 91
Nova Pádua 361 Palácio Rio Negro (Petrópolis) 116 see also National parks
Nova Petrópolis 357 Palm trees 255 Parliament buildings (Brasília) 33
Novo Airão 289 Palmares, Quilombo dos 219 Parnaíba, Rio 255
Nunes, Clara 36 Palmas 114, 314 Parque Ambiental Chico Mendes 293
restaurants 395 Parque Ambiental Encontro dos
O Pancetti, José Rios 252
O Obelisco aos Heroís de 32 (São Serie Bahia Musa da Paz 144 Parque das Aves (Iguaçu) 15, 346
Paulo) 151 Pantanal 15, 26, 319, 324–5 Parque Burle Marx (São Paulo) 153
Óbidos 279 flora and fauna 301 Parque do Caracol 358
Oca do Ibirapuera (São Paulo) 151 map 324–5 Parque das Dunas (Natal) 240
Oceanário (Aracaju) 216 wildlife 29 Parque Estadual de Canudos 210
Off-road driving 402–3, 405 Pantanal Matogrossense, Parque Parque Estadual de Marumbi 341
Oficina de Cerâmica Francisco Nacional do 324 Parque da Ferradura 358
Brennand (Recife) 223 Pão de Açúcar (Rio de Janeiro) 80 Parque do Ibirapuera (São Paulo) 13
Ohtake, Ruy 33, 145 Paquetá, Ilha 93 Parque Nacional dos Aparados da
Hotel Unique (São Paulo) 150 Pará and Amapá 269–79 Serra 353, 354, 362
Ohtake, Tomie 34, 147 Belém 272–3 Parque Nacional de Chapada
Pintura 145 hotels 378 Diamantina 13, 208–9
Oi Futuro Ipanema (Rio de Janeiro) map 270–71 Parque Nacional Chapada dos
79 restaurants 394 Veadeiros 303, 304, 316–17
Oktoberfest (Blumenau) 44 Paraguayan War (1864–70) 57 Parque Nacional das Emas 315
Olho de Boi 121 Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and Parque Nacional do Iguaçu 344, 346
Olinda 212, 214, 224–6 Ceará 231–47 Parque Nacional Iguazú 15, 347
Carnaval 226 Fortaleza 246–7 Parque Nacional do Itatiaia 107, 108,
hotels 376 hotels 376–7 115
map 224–5 João Pessoa 234–5 Parque Nacional Jaú 289
restaurants 392 map 232–3 Parque Nacional do Lençóis
Oliveira, General Diego Luiz de 202 restaurants 393 Maranhenses 254–5
Ondina 198 Rota do Sol beaches 241 Parque Nacional Marinho de
Opening hours sertão 237 Abrolhos 185, 205
banks 414 Paraiso, Lagoa do 245 Parque Nacional Marinho de
shops 94, 154, 398 Paraná see Santa Catarina and Fernando de Noronha 213, 228
Opera Paraná Parque Nacional de Monte Roraima
Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Paranaguá 342 292
Orellana, Francisco de 32 hotels 381 Parque Nacional do Pantanal
Orixás 181 restaurants 396 Matogrossense 324
GENERAL INDEX 439
Parque Nacional Serra da Canastra Piauí and Maranhão 249–59 Portuguese language 408
66, 125, 127, 137 Delta do Parnaíba and Parque classes 404, 405
Parque Nacional de Serra do Nacional dos Lençóis Post, Frans 34, 78, 147, 223
Capivara 252–3 Maranhenses 254–5 Postal services 417
Parque Nacional Serra do Cipó 125, hotels 377 Pottery on Ilha de Marajó 274
129 map 250–51 Pousadas 366, 368, 369
Parque Nacional da Serra dos Parque Nacional de Serra da Praça da Matriz (Porto Alegre)
Órgãos 107, 119 Capivara 252–3 356–7
Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades restaurants 393–4 Praça da República (Recife)
250, 253 São Luís 256–8 222
Parque Nacional de Superagui 343 Picãozinho, Ilha de (João Pessoa) Praça da Sé (Salvador) 193
Parque Nacional da Tijuca 12, 87, 92 235 Praça dos Três Poderes (Brasília)
Parque Nacional de Ubajara 231, Picasso, Pablo 146, 147, 152 308
245 Pignatari, “Baby” 153 Praça XV de Novembro (Rio de
Parque Trianon (São Paulo) 148 Pinacoteca do Estado (São Paulo) Janeiro)
Passports 408, 409 13, 144–5 Street-by-Street map 74–5
Pátio do Colégio (São Paulo) 12, 142 Pinga Festival (Paraty) 47 Praia da Atalaia 229
Paul VI, Pope 38, 309 Pinheiros (São Paulo) Praia Atalaia Nova 216
Paulistanos 31, 151 restaurants 390 Praia Azeda 121
Pavilhão Japonès (São Paulo) 150 Pintura (Ohtake) 145 Praia Azedinha 121
Pavlova, Anna 77, 273 Piquet, Nelson 25, 91 Praia da Barra da Tijuca 90
Pedra Azul 107, 123 Pirenópolis 297, 303, 312–13 Praia de Boa Viagem 199
Pedra Furada 245 festivals 46 Praia Brava 121
Pedro I, Dom 56 map 313 Praia do Cabo Branco 234
Brasília 308 Pius XII, Pope 86 Praia do Camburí 122
Jardim Zoológico (Rio de Janeiro) Planetarium Praia do Cepilho 112
88 São Paulo City 150 Praia da Costa 122
Museu Paulista do Ipiranga (São Poço das Andorinhas 112 Praia de Cumbuco 247
Paulo) 152 Poço Encantado 209 Praia Deserta 343
Petrópolis 116 Poconé Praia da Ferradura 121
portrait of 118 hotels 379 Praia de Fora 112
tomb 152 Police 412–13, 423 Praia do Forte 206–7, 211
Pedro II, Dom 56, 58 Politics 23–4 hotels 375
Cog train (Rio de Janeiro) 87 Ponta Negra 241 Praia do Francês 218
Ilha Fiscal 92 Population 24, 30–31 Praia do Futuro 247
Museu Nacional (Rio de Janeiro) 88 The gaúcho life 334–5 Praia do Gunga 219
Palácio Imperial (Petrópolis) multicultural Southern Brazil 332– Praia de Iracema 247
118–19 3 Praia do Jabaquara 112
Petrópolis 116 The people of Amazônia 266–7 Praia João Fernandes 121
São Félix 201 Por quilo restaurants 383 Praia João Fernandinho 121
statue of 108 Pororoca wave 279 Praia Joaquina 351
throne 77 Portinari, Candido 34 Praia de Maresias 169
tomb 116 Estacão Pinacoteca (São Paulo) Praia do Meio (Fernando de
trains 137 146 Noronha) 228
Peixoto, Floriano 298 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis Praia do Meio (Guarapari) 122
Pelé 25, 40, 41, 172, 173 (Belo Horizonte) 129 Praia do Meio (Paraty) 112
Pelourinho (Salvador) 13, 184, 185 Mayrink Chapel 92 Praia de Meireles (Fortaleza)
Street-by-Street map 190–91 Museu de Arte Contemporânea 247
Penedo 217 (São Paulo) 152 Praia Mole 351
Peninsula de Maraú 202 Museu de Arte de São Paulo 147 Praia do Morro 122
Peninsula da Ponta da Fortaleza Porto Alegre 331, 356–7 Praia das Pedrinhas 175
168 airport 419 Praia da Penha 200
Peoples of Brazil 30–31 climate 48 Praia da Pipa 241
Pequenos Lençóis 255 festivals 45 hotels 377
Pereira Leal, Inácio 312 hotels 381 restaurants 393
Pereira dos Santos, Vitalino 227 map 356 Praia do Pontal 112
Perequê 169 restaurants 397 Praia Prainha (Rio de Janeiro)
Pernambuco see Sergipe, Alagoas Porto da Barra 198 91
and Pernambuco Porto Camará 274 Praia do Rosado 243
Pescadores do Rio Vermelho Porto de Galinhas 219 Praia do Sagi 241
(Salvador) 45 hotels 376 Praia Sítio do Conde 211
Petrobras 22, 23, 61 restaurants 392 Praia da Tabatinga 241
Petrópolis 12, 67, 116–19 Porto Seguro 205 Praia Taipús de Fora 202
hotels 372 Porto Velho 293 Praia Tambaba 235
map 116–17 hotels 379 Praia de Tambaú 234
Palácio Imperial 118–19 restaurants 394–5 Praia Vermelha do Norte 168
restaurants 388 Portuguese colonists 21, 24, 30, Praia Vermelha do Sul 168
Pharmacies 410 52–3, 54 Praia do Viareggio 175
Phones 416, 417 history 51 Prainha 204
Photo identification 413 religion 38 Pré Cajú (Aracaju) 45
440 GENERAL INDEX
Prehistoric sites Rembrandt 147 Rio de Janeiro (cont.)

Cariri 236 Renting cars 422, 423 favelas 89
pottery on Ilha de Marajó 274 Repentistas 243 festivals 45
Monte Alegre 279 Republic Proclamation Day 47 flight duration chart 421
Parque Nacional de Serra do Reserva Biologica do Guaporé 293 history 54, 55
Capivara 252–3 Restaurants 382–97 hotels 370–71
Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades alcohol and drinks 383 map 72–3
253 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and Morro do Corcovado and Cristo
Souza 236 Rondônia 394–5 Redentor 86–7
Presidente Figueiredo 288 Bahia 391–2 Praça XV de Novembro and
Preto, Rio 316 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 395 Centro: Street-by-Street map 74–5
Processão do Bom Jesus dos children in 383 restaurants 386–8
Navegantes (Salvador) 45 churrascaria rodízio (barbecue shopping 94–5
Processão dos Navegantes (Angra houses) 383 Street Finder 100–105
dos Reis) 45 dress code 382 Sugar Loaf Mountain 80–81
Procissão do Fogaréu (Cidade de The flavors of Brazil 384–5 travel in 426–7
Goiás) 46 The flavors of Northeast Brazil two days in Rio de Janeiro 12
Projac-TV Globo (Barra da Tijuca) 91 182–3 Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo
Projeto Tamar 168, 211 food hygiene 383 107–23
Protestantism, Evangelical 38–9 local eating habits 382 Beaches of Costa do Sul 120–21
Prudentópolis 333 Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do Costa Verde 114
Public holidays 47 Sul 395 hotels 372–3
Public toilets 409 Minas Gerais 388–9 map 108–9
Puerto Iguazú (Argentina) 347 Pará and Amapá 394 Mata Atlântica 113
Puppets Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and Paraty 110–12
Carnaval in Rio de Janeiro 68 Ceará 393 Petrópolis 116–19
International Puppet Theater paying and tipping 382 restaurants 388
Festival 47 Piauí and Maranhão 393–4 Rio Preto waterfall 304, 310–11
Museu do Mamulengo (Olinda) por quilo 383 Rivaldo 40
225, 226 Rio de Janeiro 386–8 Roads 423
Rio de Janeiro State and Espírito Transamazônica 62, 63, 272
Q Santo 388 Rocha, José Joaquim da 34, 197
Quadros, Janio 62 Rio Grande do Norte and Ceará Rocha, Paulo Mendes de 144
Quartel General do Exército (Brasília) 393 Rock art
306, 308 Rio Grande do Sul 397 Cariri 236
Queimada dos Britos 254 Santa Catarina and Paraná 396 Monte Alegre 279
Quilombos 219 São Paulo 389–90 Parque Nacional de Serra do
Quinta da Boa Vista (Rio de Janeiro) São Paulo State 391 Capivara 252–3
88 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco Parque Nacional de Sete Cidades
Quintana, Mário 357 392–3 253
Quitandinha (Petrópolis) 117 smoking 383 Rodeos 335
vegetarian meals 383 Rodin, Auguste
R see also Food and drink Génio do Repouso Eterno 145
Racing see Horse racing; Motor Resurrection of Christ (Raphael) 147 Museu Rodin-Bahia (Salvador) 197
racing Reveillon at Copacabana (Rio de Rodrigo de Freitas, Lagoa 12, 84
Radio 417 Janeiro) 45 Rolla, Joaquim 117
Rafting 403 Reynolds, Joshua 147 Romârio 40, 41
Railway stations Ribeiro, Darcy 35 Ronaldinho 40
Estação da Luz (São Paulo) 146 Riberão da Ilha 350 Ronaldo 40, 41
Railways see Trains Rio Branco 262, 281, 292–3 Rondónia see Amazonas, Roraima,
Rainforest see Amazônia; Mata climate 48 Acre and Rondônia
Atlântica hotels 379 Roraima see Amazonas, Roraima,
Rally dos Sertões 47 restaurants 394 Acre and Rondônia
Raphael Rio Grande do Norte see Paraíba, Rio Roraima, Monte 262, 292
Resurrection of Christ 147 Grande do Norte and Ceará Rota do Sol beaches 241
Rappeling Rio Grande do Sul 353–63 Rousseff, Dilma 23, 63
Chapada Diamantina 209 hotels 381 Rubber trees 264, 278
Recife 213, 220–23 map 354–5 Rubens, Peter Paul 147
airport 419 Porto Alegre 356–7 Rules of the road 423
climate 49 restaurants 397
festivals 44 São Miguel das Missões 363 S
flight duration chart 421 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Sabinada Rebellion (1837–38) 56
hotels 376 Rio de Janeiro 11, 14, 15, 21, 67, Saco de Mamanguá 112
map 220–21 71–105 Safaris 402, 405
restaurants 392–3 airport 419 Safety 412–13
Recifolia (Recife) 44 Barra 90–91 beaches 43
Reentrâncias Maranhenses 259 Cariocas 31, 71 food hygiene 383
Religion 24, 38–9, 409 Carnaval 68–9 pedestrians 426
Afro-Brazilian culture 181 climate 49 São Paulo 159
see also Candomblé entertainment 96–9 women travelers 409
GENERAL INDEX 441
Sailing 403 São João del Rei 136–7 Serie Bahia Musa da Paz (Pancetti)
Ilhabela Sailing Week 47 São Joaquim 144
Sala São Paulo 146 festivals 46 Serra da Canastra, Parque Nacional
Salgado, Sebastião 34 São Josafat (Prudentópolis) 333 66, 125, 127, 137
Salinópolis 274 São Luís 178, 249, 251, 256–8 Serra do Capivara, Parque Nacional
Salles, Walter 25 festivals 47 de 252–3
Salobrinho, Rio 326 flight duration chart 421 Serra do Cipó, Parque Nacional 125,
Salvador 15, 179, 185, 188–99 hotels 377 129
airport 419 restaurants 394 hotels 373
Atlantic coast 198–9 Street-by-Street map 256–7 Serra Gaúcha 22, 333, 353
Carnaval 197 São Mateus (Ceschiatti) 309 Serra da Graciosa 341
climate 49 São Miguel das Missões 330, 363 Serra do Mar (Angra dos Reis) 114
festivals 45 hotels 381 Serra do Mar (Serra da Graciosa) 341
flight duration chart 421 São Paulo 14, 21, 66, 139–63 Serra dos Órgãos, Parque Nacional
hotels 375 airport 419 107, 119
Igreja e Convento de São climate 49 Serra Pelada 269
Francisco 194–5 crime 159 Sertão 27, 237
map 188–9 entertainment 156–7 wildlife 28
Pelourinho: Street-by-Street map Fashion Week 149 Sete Cidades, Parque Nacional de
190–91 festivals 44–7 250, 253
restaurants 391 flight duration chart 421 Seurat, Georges 147
two days in Salvador 13 hotels 373–4 Shoe shops
Salvaterra 274 map 140–41 Rio de Janeiro 95
Samba 36 Museu de Arte de São Paulo Shopping 398–9
Rio de Janeiro 68, 97, 99 (MASP) 147 arts and crafts 399
Sambódromo and Cidade do music 37 food and drink 399
Samba (Rio de Janeiro) 88–9 Parque do Ibirapuera 150–51 gems 399
Sambódromo (Rio de Janeiro) 69, Paulistanos 31 how to pay 398
88–9 Pinacoteca do Estado 144–5 markets and camélodromos 398–9
Santa Catarina, Ilha de 350–51 restaurants 389–90 opening hours 94, 154, 398
map 350–51 shopping 154–5 Rio de Janeiro 94–5
Santa Catarina and Paraná 337–51 Street finder 158–63 São Paulo 154–5
Florianópolis and Ilha de Santa travel in 426–7 shopping centers and
Catarina 350–51 two days in São Paulo 12–13 hypermarkets 398
Foz do Iguaçu 344–7 São Paulo Art Biennial 44 Silva, Benedita da 62
hotels 380–81 São Paulo Fashion Week 46 Silva, Bernardo Pires da 134
map 338–9 São Paulo International Film Festival Silva, Francisca (Chica) da 128
restaurants 396 44 Silva, Francisco Joaquim
Serra da Graciosa 341 São Paulo State 165–75 Béthencourt da 85
Santa Elena de Uairén 292 coast 66 Silva, Leônidas 40
Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos hotels 374 Siqueira Campos, José Wilson 314
(Paraty) 110 map 166–7 Sitio Roberto Burle Marx (Barra da
Santa Teresa (Rio de Janeiro) 77 restaurants 391 Tijuca) 14, 91
hotels 371 São Pedro 169 Slav immigrants 333
restaurants 388 São Pedro dos Clérigos (Recife) 32 Slaves 24, 54
Santander Cultural (Porto Alegre) 357 São Sebastião 14, 168–9 abolition of slavery 57
Santarém 263, 269, 270, 278–9 restaurants 391 Afro-Brazilian culture 180–81
hotels 378 São Silvestre Race (São Paulo) 45 capoeira 203
Santo Amaro 200 São Vicente 173 Salvador 185
festivals 46 Sapiranga Reserve 211 Santo Amaro 200
Santo Amaro, Lagoa de 254 Saquarema 120 Smoking
Santo Antônio de Lisboa 350 Sater, Almir 313 in restaurants 383
Santo Daime 39 Sattamini, João 93 Snorkeling 403
Santos 172–3 Scholz, Waldemar 285 Soccer 25, 40–41, 401
hotels 374 The Schoolboy (Van Gogh) 147 Estádio do Maracanã (Rio de
Santos Dumont, Alberto Scliar, Moacyr 35, 39 Janeiro) 88
Casa de Santos Dumont Scuba diving 403 Memorial das Conquistas (Santos)
(Petrópolis) 117 Security 412–13 173
Santos-São Paulo Railroad 57 Segall, Lasar 34, 146 Museu do Futbol (São Paulo) 13,
Santuário Dom Bosco (Brasília) 308 Semana Santa 46 148–9
Santuário Santo Antônio do Senna, Ayrton 25 Museu Seleção Brasileira (Barra da
Valongo (Santos) 172, 173 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco Tijuca) 90–91
Santuário de Vida Silvestre Fazenda 213–29 Pelé 172, 173
Vagafogo (Pirenópolis) 313 Fernando de Noronha 228–9 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99
São Cristóvão 216 festivals 46 São Paulo 157
São Félix 201 hotels 375–6 training sessions 404, 405
São Francisco, Rio 213, 214, 217, map 214–15 World Cup 40, 59, 61, 62, 63
218, 237 Olinda 224–6 Sociedade Hípica Brasileira (Lagoa
São João (Caruaru and Campina Recife 220–23 Rodrigo de Freitas) 84
Grande) 47 restaurants 392–3 Sócrates 41
442 GENERAL INDEX
Solano Lopez, Francisco 57 Teatro da Paz (Belém) 272–3 Transamazônica (Trans-Amazon

Solar do Unhão (Salvador) 13, 196 Teatro de Pirenópolis 313 Highway) 62, 63, 272
Solimões, Rio 281, 289 Telephones 416, 417 Transcoso
see also Amazon river Television 417 restaurants 392
Souré 274 Telles, Lygia Fagundes 35 Travel 418–27
Sousa, Manuel Rabello de 133 Templo da Boa Vontade (Brasília) air 418–21
Sousa, Martim Alfonso da 52 308 Amazonas, Roraima, Acre and
Sousa, Tomé de 54, 193 Templo Busshinji (São Paulo) 149 Rondônia 282
Southeast Brazil 65–175 Tennis 25 Bahia 187
map 66–7 Terena villages 326 boats 424–5
Minas Gerais 125–37 Teresa Cristina, Empress 88, 252 Brasília, Goiás and Tocantins 305
Rio de Janeiro 71–105 tomb 116 buses 422, 427
Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo Teresina 249, 252–3 cars 422–3
107–23 hotels 377 in cities 426–7
São Paulo 139–63 restaurants 393 Mato Grosso and Mato Grosso do
São Paulo State 165–75 Teresópolis 119 Sul 321
Southern Brazil 329–63 Terreiro de Jesus (Salvador) 190 metro 426–7
Foz do Iguaçu 344–7 Thaler, Andreas 333 Ouro Preto 126
The gaúcho life 334–5 Theater 400 Pará and Amapá 271
map 330–31 Rio de Janeiro 98, 99 Paraíba, Rio Grande do Norte and
multicultural Southern Brazil Theatro Municipal (Rio de Janeiro) Ceará 233
332–3 12, 77 Piauí and Maranhão 251
Rio Grande do Sul 353–63 Theatro Municipal (São Paulo) 143 Rio de Janeiro 73
Santa Catarina and Paraná 337–51 Theft 412 Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo
Serra da Graciosa 341 São Paulo 159 109
Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 Theme parks 401 Rio Grande do Sul 355
Souza 236 Tibaú do Sul 241 Salvador 189
Souza, Tome de 190 hotels 377 Santa Catarina and Paraná 339
Specialized holidays 402–5 restaurants 393 São Paulo City 141
Spiritism 39 Ticuna community 30 Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco
Sport 25 Tijuca, Parque Nacional da 12, 87, 215
Brazilian beach culture 43 92 taxis 426
see also Soccer Time zones 409 trains 424, 425
Spring in Brazil 44 Tintoretto 147 Travel agencies 419
Statues Tipping Traveler’s checks 415
Cristo Redentor (Rio de Janeiro) in hotels 367 in hotels 366
12, 21, 86–7 in restaurants 382 Travessa do Comércio (Rio de
Steckel, Frederico 93 Tiradentes 136 Janeiro) 75
Stockler, Cristiano 146 festivals 47 Trees
Sucuri, Rio 321, 327 hotels 373 Buriti palm trees 255
Sugar 54, 58 restaurants 389 Tren Ecológico (Foz do Iguaçu)
Sergipe, Alagoas and Pernambuco Tiradentes (rebel) 55, 130 345
213 statue of 130 Treze Tilias 333
Sugar Loaf Mountain (Rio de Tiradentes Day 47 Trindade 112
Janeiro) 12, 70, 80–81 Titian 147 Tropical (Malfatti) 145
Summer in Brazil 45 Tocantins see Brasília, Goiás and Tropical diseases 410
Sun protection 411 Tocantins Tropicalismo 37
Superagui, Ilha de 343 Toilets, public 409 Tukano people 266
Superagui, Parque Nacional de 343 Toque Toque Grande 169 Tupi-Guaraní people 51
Supremo Tribunal Federal (Brasília) Toque Toque Pequeno 169 Tupinambá people 51, 53
307, 308 Tordesillas, Treaty of (1494) 51, 353 Turner, JMW 147
Surfing 403 Torre de Malakoff (Recife) 221 TV Tower (Brasília) 15, 306
Pororoca wave 279 Torres 362
The Surrender of Uruguaiana 57 festivals 46 U
Synagogues Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 147 Ubajara, Parque Nacional de 231,
Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue Tourist information 408, 409 245
(Recife) 220–21 Tours by car Ubatuba 14, 165, 167, 168–9
Vale dos Vinhedos 359 hotels 374
T Trains 424, 425 restaurants 391
Tamoio Indians 165 Cog train (Rio de Janeiro) 12, 87 Umbanda 39
Taunay, Nicolau 92 The Litorina 341 UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Taxes Madeira-Mamoré Museu Brasília 298, 306
in hotels 367 Ferroviário (Porto Velho) 262, 281, Cidade Goiás 303
Taxis 426 293 Diamantina 67, 128
air taxis 420 Museu Ferroviário (São João del Foz do Iguaçu 346
airport 419 Rei) 137 Itacaré 204
Teatro Amazonas (Manaus) 10, 15, Tren Ecológico (Foz do Iguaçu) Mata Atlântica 63, 343
33, 263, 286–7 345 Olinda 224–6
Teatro José de Alencar (Fortaleza) Trancoso 205 Paraty 110
246 hotels 375 Parque Nacional das Emas 315
GENERAL INDEX 443
UNESCO World Heritage Sites (cont.) Vila Olímpia and Itaim Bibi (São Wildlife (cont.)
Parque Nacional de Serra do Paulo) Ecoparque Sperry 358
Capivara 252 restaurants 390 ecotourism 402, 405
Pelourinho (Salvador) 13, 190 Vinícola Miolo Estação Ecológica Juréia-Itatins
Salvador 179 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 174
São Luís 178, 256–7 Vinícola Pizzato flora and fauna in the cerrado
São Miguel das Missões 363 Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359 300–301
Urubuqueçaba, Ilha 164 Visas 408, 409 flora and fauna of Pantanal 301
Usina do Gasômetro (Porto Alegre) Vitória 122 Iguaçu region 345, 347
357 hotels 372–3 Ilha do Cardoso 175
restaurants 388 Mata Atlântica 113
V Volpi, Alfredo 34 Pantanal 15, 29, 319, 324–5
Vaccinations 410 Composição 144 Reentrâncias Maranhenses 259
Vale do Paty 208 Volunteer programs 404, 405 Rio de Janeiro and Espírito Santo
Vale do Quilombo 358 107
Vale dos Vinhedos 359 W see also Aquariums; Birds; National
Valentim, Mestre 34, 146 Walking, in cities 426 parks; Zoos
Van Gogh, Vincent War of the Triple Alliance (1864–70) Wind surfing 403
The Schoolboy 147 57 Wines 383
Vargas, Getúlio Dornelles 59, 60–61 Water, drinking 411 Bento Gonçalves 360
capoeira 203 Water sports 43, 403, 405 Flores da Cunha 361
death 59, 79 Waterfalls Vale dos Vinhedos tour 359
Confeitaria Colombo (Rio de Cachoeira da Água Branca 169 Winter in Brazil 46–7
Janeiro) 77 Cachoeira Almeçegas 317 Women travelers 409
Igreja Nossa Senhora da Glória do Cachoeira d’Anta 137 Workers’ Party (PT, Partido dos
Outeiro (Rio de Janeiro) 79 Cachoeira do Buraçao 209 Trabalhadores) 23, 63
Palácio Imperial (Petrópolis) Cachoeira da Toca 169 World Cup (soccer) 40, 59, 61, 62, 63
118 cascading and canyoning 403 World Heritage Sites see UNESCO
Palácio Rio Negro (Petrópolis) Cascatinha do Taunay 92 World Heritage Sites
116 Foz do Iguaçu 15, 330, 337, 344–7 World War I 58–9
Paulistano rebellion 151 Parque do Caracol 358 World War II 79
Recife 222 Presidente Figueiredo 288 Writers 34, 35
Veen, Otto van 195 Rio Preto 304, 310–11
Vegetarian meals 383 Véu de Noiva 322, 323 X
Veiga Valle, José Joaquim da 34, Weather see Climate Xavier, José da Silva 136
314, 322 Wet season 26 Ximenes, Ettore 152
Velázquez, Diego de Silva y 147 Wetlands Xingú 323
Veloso, Caetano 37, 200 Pantanal 15, 26, 29, 301, 319,
Ver o Peso (Belém) 272 324–5 Y
Vespucci, Amerigo 52 Wheelchair access see Disabled Yánez Pinzón, Vicente 51
Abrolhos 205 travelers Yanomami people 266
Baía de Guanabara 92 When to go 408
Fernando de Noronha 228 Wickam, Henry 278 Z
Véu de Noiva 322, 323 Wiedersphan, Theo 357 Zagury, Bob 120
Vieira, Father Antônio 35, 192 Wildlife Zoos
Vila do Abraão 114 Alta Floresta 323 Jardim Zoológico (Rio de Janeiro)
Vila Ilhabela 169 Amazon ecosystem 265 88
Villa-Lobos, Heitor 25, 36, 77 Amazon excursions from Manaus Zoológico do CIGS (Manaus) 285
Museu Villa-Lobos (Rio de Janeiro) 288–91 see also Aquariums; Wildlife
85 Brazil’s flora and fauna 28–9 Zumbi 219
444 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people Cartography Credits
whose help and assistance contributed to the preparation Base mapping for São Paulo derived from Netmaps,
of this book. and assistance from Ed Merrit.
Main Contributors Special Assistance

Shawn Blore, a Rio de Janeiro-based journalist, publishes Dorling Kindersley would like to thank José Mayrink,
travel and investigative articles in magazines and Sônia Lúcia da Costa Conrado, Leonardo A. P. Silva, and
newspapers in Canada, the USA, the UK, and elsewhere.
Adriana Teixeira for their assistance.
Dilwyn Jenkins (1957–2014) began travelling in South
America in 1976. Anthropologist, sustainable development Additional Editorial and Design
expert, and travel writer, he made documentaries for Rachel Fox, Rhiannon Furbear, Lydia Halliday,
television for 30 years. Kaberi Hazarika, Bharti Karakoyi, Priya Kukadia,
Jude Ledger, Phoebe Lowndes, Alison McGill,
Oliver Marshall has been visiting Brazil regularly since 1982. Rada Radojicic, Alex Robinson, Sands Publishing
Specializing in travel and history, he has written extensively
Solutions, Beverly Smart.
on Latin America.
Christopher Pickard has lived in Brazil for nearly 20 years and Picture Credits
written widely about the country. He is vice-chairman of the The publisher would like to thank the following
Latin American Travel Association. for their kind permission to reproduce their
photographs:
Alex Robinson is a travel writer and photographer with a
client list that includes Conde Nast Traveller, Wanderlust,
Footprint, BBC, and Channel 4. Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-center; f-far;
l-left; r-right; t-top.
Neiva Augusta Silva writes for Brazilian travel guides
and magazines, as well as on adventure sports and Alta Floresta: Cristalino Jungle Lodge; Belém: Basílica
rural tourism. de Nossa Senhora de Nazaré, Teatro da Paz; Brasília:
Catedral Metropolitana Nossa Senhora Aparecida,
Fact Checkers Santuário Dom Bosco; Caxias do Sul: Museu da Casa
Alexandra de Vries, Fernanda Drummond, Stephen de Pedra; Congonhas: Basílica do Senhor Bom Jesus
Wingrove de Matosinhos; Curitiba: Hotel Burbon; Diamantina:
Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo; Itamaracá Island:
Proofreader Projeto Peixe Boi; João Pessoa: Igreja de São
Susanne Hillen Francisco; Manaus: Teatro Amazonas; Olinda:
Convento de São Francisco, Mosteiro de São
Indexer Bento; Ouro Preto: Casa dos Contos, Igreja de São
Hilary Bird Francisco de Assis, Matriz de Nossa Senhora da
Conceição de Antônio Dias, Museu do Aleijadinho;
Design and Editorial Paraty: Casa de Cadeia, Igreja de Nossa Senhora
Publisher Douglas Amrine do Rosário e São Benedito; Petrópolis: Museu das
Publishing Managers Jane Ewart, Scarlett O’Hara, Anna Cavalhadas, Palácio de Cristal; Piauí & Maranhâo:
Streiffert
Maranhâo State Government Tourist Board, Sea
Senior Designer Paul Jackson
Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris and Air Maranhâo; Porto Alegre: Museu de arte
Editorial Assistance Alexandra Farrell, Fay Franklin de Rio Grande do Sul, Teatro São Pedro; Recife:
DTP Designer Natasha Lu Casa da Cultura, Oficina Cerâmica Francisco Brennand,
Picture Researcher Ellen Root Kahal Zur Israel Synagogue; Rio de Janeiro: Barra
Production Controller Shane Higgins Shopping, Blue Man, Confeitaria Colombo,
XML Coordinator Bulent Yusuf H. Stern, Museu do Índio, Museu Nacional de Belas
Artes, Nossa Senhora da Candelária, Rio Scenarium Bar;
Additional Photography Salvador: Catedral Basílica, Fundação Casa de Jorge
Geoff Brightling, Geoff Dann, Barnabus Kindersley, Amado, Igreja e Convento de São Francisco, Memorial
Cyril Laubscher, Ian O’Leary, Jose Olimpio. das Conquistas do Santos, Museu Afro-Brasileiro,
Museu Tempostal; Santos: Bolsa e Museu do Café; São
Additional Illustrations Paulo City: Igreja São Francisco de Assis, Jacaré do Brasil,
Chapel Design and Marketing Ltd. Mosteiro de São Bento de São Paulo, Museu de Arte
Contemporânea, Museu de Arte de São Paulo, Museu
Additional Picture Research de Arte Sacra de São Paulo, Museu de Arte Moderna
Julia Harris-Voss, Phoebe Lowndes, Susie Peachey, de São Paulo, Vila Madalena; Tiradentes: Igreja Matriz
Ellen Root, Lucy Sienkowska de Santo Antônio.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS 445
Works of art have been reproduced with the kind Giraudon/Private Collection The Funeral of the Emperor of
permission of the following copyright holders: Brazil: The Carriage from ‘Le Petit Journal December 1891
Henri Meyer 58tc. Index/Museu Historico Nacional, Buenos
Alfredo Volpi, Composição (1976) 144tr; José Pancetti, Serie Aires The Surrender of Uruguaiana, Candido Lopez 1865
Bahia Musa da Paz 144cl; Anita Malfatti, Tropical 145tc, 57tr, 57bc; Index/Museu Historico Nacional, Rio de Janeiro
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Pintura (1969) 145crb. September 1822 Dome Pedro di Figueredo 56tl; Stapleton
Collection Botocudos family, Rio Grande, from Le Costume
4Corners: Antonino Bartuccio 336; Giordano Cipriani Ancien et Moderne, Volume II plate 37, Jules Ferrario,
406–7; Guido Cozzi 328–9; Schapowalow/Chris Seba published c. 1820s–30s 53tr;
348–9; SIME/Antonino Bartuccio 184, 206–7. Marcio Cabral: 208c.
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Noel Yates 83tr. Getty Images: AFP/Mauricio Lima 35tr; Bloomberg 416bc;
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446 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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PHRASE BOOK 447
Phrase Book
The Portuguese spoken in Brazil differs in various ways Useful Words
from the Portuguese spoken in Portugal. In general, Brazilian big grande granj
pronunciation tends to omit far fewer sounds, especially small pequeno pikaynoo
the sounds at the end of words, and rarely runs two words hot quente kayntsh
together, both of which are common practice in Portugal. cold frio free-oo
One feature of Brazilian Portuguese, particularly in the Rio bad mau mow
de Janeiro area, is that an “r” sound can be spoken like an “h.” good bom bong
So carro (car) may sound like “ka-hoo.” Another difference enough suficiente soofis-yayntsh
lies in the ways of saying “you.” The Portuguese form of placing open aberto abehrtoo
closed fechado fishadoo
the definite article in front of a person’s name (o João, a Cristina),
dangerous perigoso pirigohzoo
as a way of saying “you,” does not exist in Brazil, where você and safe seguro sigooroo
vocês are the most common words for “you.” The Portuguese tu is full cheio shay-oo
not used much in Brazil. A huge number of other vocabulary empty vazio vazee-oo
differences exist, many at the level of everyday speech: train is trem straight on reto rehtoo
in Brazil, comboio in Portugal; breakfast is café da manhã in Brazil, under debaixo dibīshoo
pequeno almoço in Portugal; bathroom is banheiro in Brazil, casa de over em cima ayng seema
banho in Portugal; goalkeeper is goleiro in Brazil, guarda-redes in in front of em frente de ayng frayntsh ji
Portugal; to drive is dirigir in Brazil, conduzir in Portugal. The sound behind atrás de atraJ jih
indicated by “ī” in the phrase book is like the “i” in English word “hi.” first floor primeiro andar primayroo andar
“J” sounds like the “s” in the word “pleasure.” ground floor térreo tehrryoo
lift elevador elevadohr
toilet banheiro ban-yayroo
In an Emergency men’s dos homens dooz ohmaynsh
Help! Socorro! sookorroo women’s das mulheres dash mool-yehrish
Stop! Pare! pahree quick rápido rapidoo
Call a doctor! Chame um médico! shamih oong soon cedo saydoo
mehjikoo late tarde tarj
Call an Chame uma shamih ooma now agora agora
ambulance! ambulância! amboolans-ya more mais mīsh
Where is the Onde é o hospital? ohnd-yeh oo oshpital less menos maynoosh
hospital? a little um pouco oong pohkoo
Police! Polícia! poolees-ya a lot muito mweengtoo
Fire! Fogo! fohgoo too much demais dimīsh
I’ve been robbed Fui assaltado fwee asaltadoo entrance entrada ayntrada
exit saída sa-eeda
Communication Essentials passport passaporte pasaportsh
Yes Sim seeng
No Não nowng Post Offices & Banks
Hello Olá ohla bank banco bankoo
How are you? Como vai? kohmoo vī bureau de (casa de) câmbio (kaza jih)
How is it going? Tudo bem/ toodoo bayng/ change kamb-yoo
tudo bom? toodo bong exchange rate taxa de câmbio tasha jih kamb-yoo
Goodbye Tchau tshow post office correio koorray-oo
See you later Até logo ateh logoo postcard cartão postal kartowng pooshtal
Excuse me Com licença kong lisaynsa postbox caixa de correio kīsha jih koorray-oo
I’m sorry Desculpe dishkoolp ATM caixa automática kīsha owtoomatshika
Thank you Obrigado (if a obrigadoo/obrigada stamp selo sayloo
man is speaking)/ cash dinheiro jeen-yayroo
obrigada (if a withdraw money tirar dinheiro tshirar jeen-yayroo
woman is speaking)
Good morning Bom dia bong jeea Shopping
Good afternoon Boa tarde boh-a tarj How much is it? Quanto é? kwantweh
Good evening/ Boa noite boh-a noh-itsh I would like… Eu quero… ay-oo kehroo
night clothes roupa rohpa
Pleased to Muito prazer mweengtoo prazayr This one Esta ehshta
meet you That one Essa ehsa
I’m fine Estou bem/ shtoh bayng/ market mercado merkadoo
tudo bem toodoo bayng supermarket Supermercado soopermerkadoo
Today Hoje ohJ Do you accept Aceitam cartão asaytowng kartowng
Yesterday Ontem ohntayng credit cards? de crédito? jih krehditoo
Tomorrow Amanhã aman-yang expensive caro karoo
What? O que? oo kay baker’s padaria padaree-a
When? Quando? kwandoo butcher’s açougue asohgee
How? Como? kohmoo chemist’s farmácia farmas-ya
Why? Por que? poorkay
Sightseeing
Useful Phrases museum museu moozay-oo
On the left/right À esquerda/direita a-shkayrda/jirayta art gallery galeria de arte galiree-a jih artsh
I don’t Não entendo nowng ayntayndoo national park parque nacional parkee nas-yoonal
understand beach praia prī-a
Please speak Fale devagar falee jivagar park parque parkee
slowly por favor poor favohr river rio ree-oo
What’s your Qual é seu nome? kwal eh church igreja igray-Ja
name? say-oo nohm cathedral catedral katidrow
My name is... Meu nome é... may-oo nohm eh district bairro bīrroo
Go away! Vá embora! va aymbora garden jardim Jardeeng
That’s fine Está bem shtah bayng tourist office informações infoormasoyngsh
Where is…? Onde está/fica…? ohnj shtah/feeka turísticas tooreeshtsheekash
When does the A que horas sai/ a kih orash sī/ guide guia gee-a
bus leave/arrive? chega o ônibus? shayga oo guided tour excursão com guia shkoorsowng kong
ohniboosh gee-a
Is this the way Este é o aysht-yeh oo ticket bilhete/ingresso bil-yaytsh/ingrehsoo
to the…? caminho para…? kameen-yoo pra map mapa mapa
448 PHRASE BOOK
Transport farofa farofa dish based on

manioc/cassava meal
bus ônibus ohniboosh
frango frangoo chicken
boat barco barkoo
train trem trayng fruta froota fruit
airport aeroporto a-ayroopohrtoo grelhado gril-yadoo grilled
airplane avião av-yowng lanche lanshee snack
flight vôo voh-oo leite laytsh milk
bus station rodoviária roodohvyar-ya manteiga mantayga butter
bus stop ponto de ônibus pohntoo j- muqueca de mookehka jih fish stew with
yohniboosh peixe payshee coconut milk
train station estação de trem stasowng jih trayng ovo cozido ohvoo koozeedoo hard-boiled egg
ticket passagem pasaJayng pão powng bread
taxi táxi taxee pão de queijo powng jih kay-Joo cheese cookie
subway metrô metroh pastel de carne pashteh-oo jih karnee puff-pastry patty
filled with mince
Health pastel de queijo pashteh-oo jih kay-Joo puff-pastry patty
filled with cheese
I feel bad/ill Sinto-me mal/doente seentoomih mow/
peixe payshee fish
dwayntsh
pimenta pimaynta pepper
I need to rest Preciso descansar priseezoo jishkansar
mal passado mow pasadoo rare
diarrhoea diarréia j-yarreh-ya
pharmacy farmácia farmas-ya ao ponto ow pohntoo medium
headache dor de cabeça dohr jih kabaysa quindim keenjeeng coconut and egg
medicine remédio rimehd-yoo sweet
sanitary towels/ absorventes/ absoorvayntsh/ refrigerante rifrigirantsh soft drink
tampons tampões tampoyngsh sal sow salt
mosquito repelente de ripelayntsh dih sorvete sohrvaytsh ice cream
repellent mosquito mooshkeetoo suco sookoo fruit juice
doctor médico mehjikoo vinho veen-yoo wine
condom camisinha kamizeen-ya
Time
Staying in a Hotel minute minuto minootoo
hotel hotel ohteh-oo hour hora ora
boutique hotel pousada pohzada half an hour meia hora may-a ora
guesthouse pensão paynsowng next week na próxima semana na prosima simana
hostel albergue owbehrgee last month no mês passado noo maysh pasadoo
Do you have Tem um quarto? tayng oong Monday segunda-feira sigoonda fayra
a room? kwartoo Tuesday terça-feira tayrsa fayra
I have a Tenho uma reserva tayn-yoo ooma Wednesday quarta-feira kwarta fayra
reservation risehrva Thursday quinta-feira keenta fayra
single/double (quarto de) (kwartoo jih) Friday sexta-feira sayshta fayra
(room) solteiro/casal sooltayroo/kazow Saturday sábado sabadoo
shower chuveiro shoovayroo Sunday domingo doomeengoo
sheet lençol laynsoh January janeiro Janayroo
bed cama kama February fevereiro feverayroo
pillow travesseiro travisayroo March março marsoo
towel toalha twal-ya April abril abree-oo
toilet paper papel higiênico papeh-oo iJ-yehnikoo May maio mī-oo
June junho Joon-yoo
Eating Out July julho Jool-yoo
I want to Quero reservar… kehroo rizirvar August agosto agohshtoo
reserve… September setembro sitaymbroo
Do you have…? Tem…? tayng October outubro ohtoobroo
The bill, please A conta, por favor a kohnta, poor November novembro noovaymbroo
favohr December dezembro dizaymbroo
menu cardápio/menu kardap-yoo/maynoo
wine list lista de vinhos leeshta de veen- Numbers
yoosh
glass copo kopoo 1 um/uma oong/ooma
bottle garrafa garrafa 2 dois/duas doh-ish/doo-ash
fork garfo garfoo 3 três traysh
knife faca faka 4 quatro kwatroo
spoon colher kool-yehr 5 cinco seenkoo
restaurant restaurante rishtowrantsh 6 seis saysh
breakfast café da manhã kafeh da man-yang 7 sete seht
lunch almoço owmohsoo 8 oito oh-itoo
dinner/supper jantar Jantar 9 nove novee
(mineral) water água (mineral) agwa (minerow) 10 dez dehsh
vegetarian vegetariano vigitar-yanoo 11 onze ohnzee
Is service O serviço está oo sirveesoo shtah 12 doze dohzee
included? incluído? inklweedoo 13 treze trayzee
14 catorze katohrzee
Menu Decoder 15 quinze keenzee
açúcar asookar sugar 16 dezesseis dizesaysh
alho al-yoo garlic 17 dezessete dizesehtee
arroz arrohsh rice 18 dezoito dizoh-itoo
azeite azaytsh olive oil 19 dezenove dizenovee
batatas fritas batatash freetash chips 20 vinte veentee
bebida bibeeda drink 21 vinte e um veentih-oong
bem passado bayng pasadoo well done 30 trinta treenta
bife beefee steak 40 quarenta kwaraynta
café kafeh coffee 50 cinqüenta sinkwaynta
carne karnee beef 60 sessenta sesaynta
cerveja sirvayJa beer 70 setenta setaynta
chá sha tea 80 oitenta oh-itaynta
churrasco shoorrashkoo barbecue 90 noventa nohvaynta
feijão (preto) fayJowng (praytoo) (black) beans 100 cem, cento sayng/sayntoo
feijoada fayJwada bean and meat stew 1000 mil mee-oo

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

The information in this

Central West Brazil 294 Aerial view of Rio de Janeiro City

Where to Eat & Drink

Shopping in Brazil 398

Survival Guide Acknowledgments 444

Igreja e Convento de São Francisco,

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

numerical order on the map.

The colorful Copacabana beach, lined with palm trees

Exploring São Paulo City AV MA RGI

2 City Map For easy reference,

AV S ÃO RU Prado 9, (11) 3104 6898.

the sights are numbered and

historical buildings, including the Catedral Metropolitana. A short A

distance to the southwest is Avenida Paulista, home to the famous Transport

located on a map. The main

~ 9 miles (4 km) S of center. @

streets, bus stations and railway

LVE RUA SÃO

stations, parking areas and

tourist oﬃces are also shown.

Towns & Neighborhoods

República São Bento

7 Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil CONSOLAÇÃO

Sights in the city centre are

q Museu Arte Sacra AÇ de Sé

also shown on the Street

Finders for Rio de Janerio City

Parks & Gardens AD

o Parque do Ibirapuera pp150–51

(see pp100–105) and for São

Churches, Cathedrals & N CO LIS A

Paulo City (see pp158–63).

2 Igreja de São Francisco de Assis E A

Sights at a Glance lists the chapter’s mansion itself is

community, their origins, and roof. Visitors are welcome to

Detailed Information All the

individually. Addresses, telephone pastoral land and forest.

numbers, opening hours, admission de Lima and began to build

charges, and information on how become São Paulo’s most

to get there are given for each

sight. The key to symbols is shown of the owner, be it Neo-Classical,

on the back ﬂap.

the history and are given on the Regional Map at

282 NORTHERN BRAZIL

Exploring Amazonas, Roraima,

2 Regional Map This

the whole region. All

visit are numbered and

there are useful tips on

9,888 ft (3,014 m) Catrimani ap

Novo Tucandera Moura

Tonantins Fonte Boa

São Paulo Amataurá azon Manacapuru

Boats anchored on the Rio Madeira outside Porto Velho Tabatinga

Carauari Co Novo Aripuanã

Story boxes explore some of

Sights at a Glance Boa Vista

Towns & Cities Santarém

1 Manaus pp284–7 Rodrigues

Joining an organized tour with one of the companies in Manaus, Boa RO N D Ô N I A

O Instituto de expeditions in the lakes and

order, following the numbering the great egret (Casmerodius