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VODKA
Stalwart Spirit
Vodka’s popularity at the bar has stood the test of time
BY SALLY KRAL
D
espite attempts in recent years from many mixologists Though to many palates vodka may seem to have no flavor
to push vodka out of the spotlight in favor of other at all, experienced mixologists recognize that each vodka
choices like whisk(e)y and gin, the neutral grain spirit brand is in fact distinct and carries subtle, nuanced character
continues to reign supreme with most consumers. and texture.
“The rise of professional bar programs bred bartenders with “It’s interesting to compare different vodkas—to the discern-
a disdain for vodka for the very reason that it became popular ing palate, differences can include mouthfeel, slight undertones
in the first place: its lack of flavor,” says Dustin Newsome, bar of a particular brand such as citrusy or peppery elements, and
manager at Bar Clacson in Los Angeles. “Vodka wasn’t seen overall refinement of the spirit,” Newsome notes. With vodka,
as a noble spirit, and was widely regarded as a ‘less-than’ prod- simple recipes are his go-to and he’s happy to see others embrace
uct made for the nightclub and college town palates.” minimalist vodka tipples. “More and more bartenders are
But Newsome notes that the bar industry has gradually making subtle cocktails and choosing vodkas that truly add to
evolved out of this phase and become more open to vodka, the balance of flavor, taking into consideration the brand’s
specifically because it continues to be so popular among particular viscosity and delicate notes,” he says. “It’s much
consumers. “I’m thankful those days are over,” he says. “The easier to consume three easy-drinking Vodka Sodas than
focus has shifted back to our guests; it’s it is to gulp down three super complicated,
now about making them the best drink for seven-ingredient magnum opus libations of
their tastes, not ours. Most professionals an overzealous bartender’s dreams.”
no longer turn up their noses at vodka, and Newsome’s Espresso Martini ($13) blends
are really doing some pretty outstanding Volstead vodka, Krogstad aquavit, house-made
things with it.” espresso syrup, and Fernet Leopold Highland
Indeed, while many spirits are praised for amaro. “We will likely always have this Espresso
their complexity and layered flavors, vodka Martini on our menu,” Newsome says. “It’s our
is appreciated for quite the opposite reason: most popular vodka-based cocktail. We use a
Its largely neutral flavor allows it to marry vodka called Volstead from House Spirits,
well with a plethora of ingredients in just based out of Portland, Oregon, which filters
about any cocktail application. the spirit through charred coconut husks.” PHOTOS BY (THIS PAGE) NEIL BERTUCCI; (OPPOSITE LOWER RIGHT) LEO ARBOINES
“Vodka is great to work with because it’s Il Molo’s Colafella appreciates vodka’s abil-
approachable to guests,” says Dorothy ity to “speak for itself” as a base spirit without
Rondomanski, bartender at Urban Farmer in overpowering the other elements of the drink.
Philadelphia. “It has made such a grounding in our world it “There isn’t a requirement to go overboard with ingredients to
would be impossible to dismiss it. Many times we can’t talk a counterbalance the taste because vodka incorporates itself into
guest out of ordering it no matter our recommendations. Some a cocktail with pure perfection.” His Rosé Wharf ($14) blends
people just prefer that clean, simple spirit.” Hangar 1 Rosé vodka, St. Elder elderflower liqueur, fresh lemon
Vincenzo Colafella, beverage director at Boston restaurant juice, and Bellussi Prosecco.
Il Molo, similarly doesn’t see vodka’s popularity dwindling
anytime soon, despite attempts from certain bars. “Cocktail
Bartenders are free to take creative liberties with vodka (Prairie
lists, depending on what city one is in, usually tend to favor Organic-based The Wicked Green pictured above), concocting such
gin, Tequila, and Bourbon-based drinks,” he says. “That being drinks as (opposite, clockwise from top left): the blueberry-centric
said, consumers will still always be loyal to vodka and will ask Blueberry Ginger Mule, Thai coconut milk-infused Matter of Habit,
for it every time.” guava-led The Diana, and grapefruit-forward Texas Greyhound.
stalk, lime wheel, and Thai chili. caviar, and his Nacho Libre ($12) comprises Western Son grass-cucumber-ginger cordial, fresh lemon and lime juices,
1Add
Prickly Pear vodka and house-made sour mix, which is poured and club soda. “The possibilities for flavor profiles in a
6-8 sliced Thai chilis to 1-liter vodka. Let sit for up to 24 hours, depending on preferred spice level, and then strain.
2Bring1 cup water to a soft boil. Stir in 2 cups sugar until dissolved. Add 5 cleaned and pounded lemongrass stalks, the skin of 2 English
over an ice cube infused with hibiscus extract and Del Maguey vodka-based drink are endless,” Harvey says. “It doesn’t
cucumbers, and 2 ounces sliced ginger with skin left on. Let gently boil for 5 minutes, then remove from heat. Let steep for 2 to 4 hours, Vida mezcal. “Vodka is the chameleon of spirits; it adapts to compete with other ingredients so you’re free to take your
and then strain. anything you mix it with,” says James Manuel, general cocktail in any flavor direction, whether it be fruity, spicy,
manager of The Rez Grill. floral, or citrus.” mw
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