MIXOLOGY

BITTER LIQUEURS

T
oday’s consumers are more sophisticated and adventurous

THE
Boston mixologist
than ever, as evidenced by the decline of overly Nick Korn says
sweet cocktails in favor of bold, spirit-forward recipes. that bitter flavors

e r
are an acquired

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“The resurgence of craft cocktails has placed the focus on

i
taste like coffee

B
balance, depth and complexity,” says Aldo Zaninotto, owner or hoppy beer.
of Osteria Langhe in Chicago, adding that bitter liqueurs have
benefited from this shift.
“I think we’re all growing up a bit,” says Nick Korn, Boston-
based bartender and Italian portfolio specialist for Campari
America. “We’ve emerged from a love for sweet, simple
confections to embrace challenging, complex flavors. No one
is born loving coffee, bitter greens or hoppy beer, but we learn
to love—and crave—those bitter flavors. The same can be
said for bitter cocktails and spirits.”

END
Katie Byrum, bartender at New York City bar The Up & Up,
says the classic cocktail revival is driving the current success
of bitter liqueurs. “When amaro started showing up more
frequently in cocktails, it took a while for people’s palates to
become accustomed to its bitter characteristics,” she explains.
“Now these flavors aren’t as intimidating as they once were.”
APERITIFS, AMARO AND Indeed, amaro and other bitter spirits have become so
OTHER BITTER LIQUEURS ADD commonplace that they’re taking on new roles in mixology.
COMPLEXITY TO ANY COCKTAIL “Bitter liqueurs once were only used as a garnish or a few drops
in a drink, but now they’re often a main cocktail ingredient,”
BY SALLY KRAL says Edoardo Branca, sixth-generation owner of Fernet-Branca
parent company Branca International.

Leader Of The Pack

Modern mixologists have helped certain spirits with rich cock-
tail histories find their rightful places on U.S. back bars. “As
bartenders continue to push the edges of convention, they’re
sourcing ingredients from far and wide,” Korn says. “European
liqueurs and particularly bitters have been a focal point. Bitter
cocktails, which once were offbeat, are now go-to drinks for
many consumers.”
With a history dating back to the early 20th century, the
PHOTOS BY (THIS PAGE) MATT PIACENTINI; (OPPOSITE) KRISTY PRICE

Negroni has reemerged as a highly popular cocktail within the

Cocktails that feature bitter ingredients are an increasingly common
trend. At The Up & Up in New York City, the Hill Wife is made with
Tempus Fugit Gran Classico bitter, Pisco, celery shrub and grapes.
last decade. Many bars offer the classic combination of gin,
Campari aperitif and sweet vermouth, while others create their
own take on the recipe. New York City bar Dante offers a happy
hour menu called “The Negroni Sessions” featuring a dozen
Negroni-inspired cocktails for $9 each. The venue’s classic
Negroni on tap is made with Bombay Sapphire gin, Campari and
Martini & Rossi sweet vermouth, while its Lavender Negroni
blends Citadelle gin with Tempus Fugit Gran Classico bitter
aperitif, Cocchi Americano Rosa aperitif and saline. At Osteria
Langhe, Zaninotto says the Negroni Classico ($10), featuring
Broker’s gin, Cappelletti aperitif and Cocchi Vermouth di Torino,

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is popular with guests. The drink,
which was created by Osteria
Langhe bartenders David McCabe
and Heather Purchla, features
Cappelletti in place of Campari
because of its rounder, sweeter finish.
The popularity of the Negroni
and its variations has introduced
drinkers to a wide range of bold,
bitter flavors and paved the way
for more experimental stirred
cocktails to gain traction. Kate
Jacoby—owner, sommelier and
pastry chef at Philadelphia restau-
rants Vedge and V Street—notes
that her guests are savvy foodies
who appreciate offbeat flavors like Bitter cocktails range from new innovations to historic classics. The No. 3 (left) cocktail combines
those found in Italian amaro offer- Luxardo, vodka, strawberry liqueur and ginger syrup. The Negroni Classico (right) at Osteria Langhe
ings. Vedge’s Metal Guru ($14) in Chicago is a traditional version of the iconic drink, made with Cappelletti instead of Campari.
features Rittenhouse rye whiskey,
Nonino Quintessentia amaro, Dolin Blanc vermouth and a “Bitters can work wonderfully in tandem with rich syrups
house-made sunchoke-chamomile tincture. “People who order and bright fruit flavors,” says The Up & Up’s Byrum. Her
amaro are curious to taste them in new cocktails,” Jacoby adds. Hill Wife cocktail ($15) comprises Macchu Pisco, Tempus
Fugit Gran Classico, muddled grapes, lemon juice, simple
Surprisingly Versatile syrup, club soda and Bittermens Orchard Street Celery
While perhaps the most traditional way to enjoy bitter liqueurs shrub. “It’s a fresh, bright cocktail with very pleasant
is in spirit-forward, stirred cocktails, Campari’s Korn points out herbaceous notes and a little bit of fizz,” Byrum explains.
that these versatile spirits work in a wide range of drinks. “Many “Gran Classico is a Swiss predecessor to Campari—it’s a
people relegate bitter liqueurs to stirred cocktails, but I love using little softer and less intense, but still provides a nice anchor
them in long drinks and cocktails shaken with juice,” he says. At in cocktails.”
Boston bar Hojoko, bartender Daren Swisher’s Amargo-rita Jacoby likes using Aperol aperitif in cocktails. She created
($12) is a twist on the Margarita that features Cynar amaro, fresh The Nightboat to Recife, which blends Aperol, Leblon
lime juice, simple syrup and salt. Swapping out Tequila for amaro cachaça, fresh coconut water, lime juice and agave nectar,
creates a more complex take on the fruity classic. for a previous restaurant and is considering bringing the

Bitter Liqueur–Based Cocktails

HILL WIFE NEGRONI CLASSICO NO. 3
By Kate Byrum By David McCabe By Revae Schneider
and Heather Purchla
Ingredients: Ingredients:
1¼ ounces Macchu Pisco; Ingredients: ½ ounce Luxardo Bitter liqueur;
¾ ounce Tempus Fugit Gran Classico 1 ounce Cappelletti aperitif; 1½ ounces Hangar 1 vodka;
bitter liqueur; 1 ounce Cocchi Vermouth di Torino; ½ ounce Fragoli Wild Strawberry liqueur;
¾ ounce lemon juice; 1 ounce Broker’s gin; ¾ ounce Le Sirop Ginger Zest syrup;
½ ounce simple syrup; Orange slice. ¾ ounce lemon juice;
3 drops Bittermens Orchard Street One bunch arugula;
Celery shrub; Arugula leaf.
Splash club soda; Recipe:
4-5 green grapes, plus 1 green grape sliced Combine aperitif, vermouth and gin in an
in half and dipped in sea salt. ice-filled mixing glass and stir. Strain into
Recipe:
an ice-filled rocks glass and garnish with an
Combine liqueurs, vodka, lemon juice,
orange slice.
ginger syrup and arugula bunch in a cock-
Recipe: tail shaker. Fill shaker half full with ice and
In a cocktail shaker, muddle 4-5 grapes. Add
shake vigorously for 30 seconds to break
Pisco, aperitif, lemon juice, syrup, shrub up arugula. Strain into a coupe glass and
and ice. Short shake and double strain into garnish with an arugula leaf.
an ice-filled rocks glass. Top with soda and
garnish with skewered half grapes.

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offering back at V Street. “The Aperol gives a light pink
color to the drink and a nice orangey bitterness that works
well with the sweet, nutty coconut water,” she says.
Many spirits that fall into the bitters category display other,
nuanced flavors, from drier liqueurs to richer, slightly sweet
ones. “There’s a tremendous range of bitter liqueurs that can
work in a number of different ways in a given cocktail,” Jacoby
explains. “For instance, using a mild liqueur adds a little
texture and bitterness to balance out an otherwise tart drink,
such as a sour. Work with something richer and more dramatic
as the spotlight, then round it out with other spirits. That’s
the beauty of bitters—you can play the bitter part up or down.”
New York City bartender Sam Ross created the Paper Plane
($16) for Little Branch, giving a traditional Whiskey Sour a bitter
twist. The drink comprises Buffalo Trace Bourbon, Nonino
Quintessentia, Aperol and fresh lemon juice. At Osteria Langhe,
the same bitter treatment is given to the classic Manhattan with
McCabe and Purchla’s Manhattan Piemontese ($10), comprising
Rittenhouse rye, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, Cardamaro
amaro and Angostura bitters. “The great thing about working
with bitter liqueurs is that they mix well with almost
anything—you’re only limited by your own creativity,” Osteria
Langhe’s Zaninotto says.

Body And Balance

Whether using just a dash or building an entire drink around
them, mixologists see bitter liqueurs as go-to ingredients for
creating drinks with balance and complexity. “I was taught that
every dish needs a balance of sweet, sour, salt, bitter and umami,
and I’ve taken that to heart with cocktails,” says Revae
Schneider, founder of the Chicago-based mixology consulting
company Femme du Coupe. “Bitterness is a necessary compo-
nent to achieve balance, whether you’re cooking a meal or
crafting a cocktail. I find that bitter liqueurs can balance out
most overly sweet or fruit-forward cocktails.” For hospitality
company DineAmic Group’s Chicago restaurant Bar Siena,
Schneider created the No. 3 cocktail ($14), which blends Luxardo
Bitter liqueur with Hangar 1 vodka, Fragoli Wild Strawberry
liqueur, Le Sirop Ginger Zest syrup, lemon juice and arugula.
Schneider says her favorite brand of bitter liqueur is Luxardo.
“I think of it as bartender’s ketchup and add it to any cocktail
that’s missing something,” she says. For another one of
DineAmic’s Chicago venues, Siena Tavern, Schneider devised
the No. 10 cocktail ($14), featuring Luxardo, Woodford
Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon, Luxardo Maraschino liqueur
and Rothman & Winter Orchard Apricot liqueur.
Bitter liqueurs are frequently used alongside other bold
spirits, creating layers of complex flavors. “Amaro works very
well with spirits that are smoky and intense like mezcal and
whisk(e)y,” The Up & Up’s Byrum says. “Such strong flavors
can often overpower subtler elements in a cocktail, but when
you put them with others in their weight class, it can be really
Bitter liqueurs add intense flavor to drinks, even when they take a
backseat role. At Philadelphia’s V Street, The Tiger’s Purr uses Aperol
to add bitterness to a drink made with Scotch, tea and lime juice.
Branca International touts the Fanciulli, a mix of Fernet-Branca,
Templeton rye whiskey and Carpano Antica Formula sweet
vermouth, while The Firlock blends the amaro with cold-brew
coffee and simple syrup. “Fernet has a strong personality on its
own and also in cocktails, so the bartender needs to find a good
balance,” Branca says. At San Francisco bar Dirty Habit, bar
manager Brian Means enhances the smoky qualities of his
In Hinesight cocktail ($13) through aging. The drink mixes
H by Hine VSOP Cognac, Luxardo Bitter and Quady Electra
Orange Moscato and matures for three months in rye casks that
previously held Tequila and ancho chili.
At V Street, Jacoby and former bar manager Daniel Miller
created The Tiger’s Purr ($11), which features The Famous
Grouse Scotch whisky, Aperol, cold Thai tea and lime juice.
“The amount of concentrated flavor you can sneak into a
cocktail with a bitter liqueur is amazing,” Jacoby says. “It’s like
PHOTO BY YONI NIMROAD

interesting.” She created the Asking for a Friend cocktail adding vanilla extract to cake batter. You can develop some
($15), which comprises High West Silver Western Oat whiskey, really dynamic drinks.”  mw
Marie Brizard Crème de Cacao liqueur, Cappelletti, Zardetto
sparkling rosé and lemon juice. Sally Kral is an Ithaca, New York–based freelance writer.

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