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OURINDUSTRYTODAY

L a t i n A m e r i c a n W h i t e Cheese - A R e v i e w I

NORMANELLA TORRES and R. C. CHANDAN


Department of Food Science and Human Nutrition
Michigan State University
East Lansing 48824

ABSTRACT developed areas of the world varies from .5


Manufacture and applications of Latin to .8 liters but from almost nil to .3 liter in the
American White Cheese are reviewed. developing areas (15).
This cheese can be made from whole milk Preservation of milk and milk products is
of cows, goats, and water buffalos as a critical in warm countries because of rapid
means of preserving the food value of deterioration of milk at high ambient tem-
milk. Milk is clotted with rennet or peratures together with the need for good
precipitated by direct acidification. Typ- means of providing nutrition. The food value of
ically the cheese is made without starter milk has been preserved in the form of cheese
cultures. Cheese curd may be obtained by in many parts of the world. White unripened
direct precipitation of whole milk at cheese in which the milk is coagulated by
82°C with vinegar, lemon juice, other rennet or precipitated with an acid is known as
fruit juices, and yogurt. In addition, acids Kareish in Egypt, Chhana and Paneer in India,
such as lactic, tartaric, citric, phosphoric, Armavir in the Western Caucasus, Zsirpi in the
or acetic may be employed. The curd is Himalayas, Feta in the Balkans, and Queso
pressed to yield a firm, sliceable, and Criollo, Queso del Pals, and Queso Llanero in
fryable cheese. Little or no ripening Latin America (19). In spite of wide differences
is required. For shelf-life extension, extra in the manufacturing process in each country,
salt and chemical preservatives may be all these cheeses belong to the same group.
used. Alternatively the cheese may be Latin American White cheese is found
packed in vacuum sealed pouches that throughout South and Central America, Mexico,
provide good oxygen and moisture and the Caribbean Islands. It is made from
barriers. It may be used as a snack, in whole, part skim, skim milk, cream, or mixtures
salads, as a cooking cheese in casserole thereof. Depending upon the origin, curdling of
dishes, or grated for use in pizza and milk may be effected with rennet, vinegar, or a
other foods. It may be included as an fruit juice.
ingredient in process cheese. Latin American White cheese is a white
creamy cheese, highly salted and acid in flavor
INTRODUCTION (13). Its texture and body resembles young
high-moisture Cheddar, and it has good slicing
Total milk in the world (cow, buffalo, sheep, properties. Chandan et al. (3) repgrted on its
and goat) used by humans for direct consump- manufacturing, consumer acceptability, and
tion or prepared products (cheese, ghee, butter, ability to resist melting at frying temperatures.
yogurt, ice cream, and other manufactured The pressed cheese is hard, crumbly, with a
products) is estimated at 450 to 455 million salty flavor and slightly open texture. Much of
metric tons per year (9). Milk and milk products this cheese is eaten fresh, within a day or two
provide about 18,500 million tons or 35% of all after it is made, either without being pressed or
animal protein and 364,640 billion Mcal or 35% after pressing. Some of the pressed cheese is
of all energy from animal sources. Per capita held for periods ranging from 2 wk to 2 mo or
daily consumption of milk and milk products in more (27). This cheese is known by many local
names (14, 19). Fresh skim milk cottage-type
cheese is called Queso de Puna in Puerto Rico
Received November 5, 1979. and Queso Fresco (fresh cheese) in E1 Sal-
l Published as Michigan Agricultural Experiment vador and Venezuela. Other skim milk cheeses
Station Journal Article No. 9116. are called Queso Llanero, Queso de Maracay,

1981 J Dairy Sci 6 4 : 5 5 2 - 5 5 7 552


OUR INDUSTRY TODAY 553

and Queso de Perija in Venezuela and Queso and sanitary facilities are submarginal or
Descremado or Queso Huloso in Costa Rica. nonexistent and where milk intake is highly
Cheese made from whole or partly skimmed variable and quality of milk is questionable
milk in Mexico is called Panela and Queso de (14). The farm product is a soft or semisoft
Prensa (pressed cheese) in E1 Salvador and cheese. The industrial product is relatively soft.
Venezuela. In Puerto Rico, these cheeses are In Venezuela the first is usually called "Queso
called Queso del Pals or Queso de La Tierra and de Matera" and the latter "Queso Pasteurizado"
in Colombia, Queso de Estera. Cheese made (7). Cheese made on the farm differs from that
from whole milk, heavily salted, pressed, cured made by industry in that it is made from raw
for 1 to 2 too, and used as a grating cheese is milk and it has a salt content of 8 to 25%, on a
called Queso de Bagaces in Costa Rica. Cheese wet basis. Thus, it is drier than that made by
made from whole milk, salted and pressed the industry. Due to the distance between
lightly, and cured for 2 wk to 2 mo is called farms and centers of demand, the time elapsed
Queso de Crema (cream cheese) in Panama between manufacture of the cheese and con-
(19). sumption is longer. Apparently, some kind of
Dairy products in general provide n o t only a ripening takes place in this product.
substantial proportion of the per capita intake The general procedure for manufacture is
of energy and protein but significant amounts stated by Davis (5). Fresh, warm, raw milk is
of micronutrients such as calcium, riboflavin, put into a wooden vat which often is a dugout
magnesium, and vitamin B12 (11). Queso "canoe" known as "canoa". Milk is curdled
blanco type cheeses of Latin America possess with commercial rennet in about 45 min. The
several nutritional advantages. They are relatively coagulum is cut with a long knife crossways or
high in mineral and protein and low in lactose is broken by hand and then stirred for 20 to 30
content. This is especially important in areas of rain. After the curd settles for 20 to 40 min, 5%
protein malnutrition and lactose intolerance. of salt (in relation to milk) is added and the
Because of low moisture and high salt content, curd is left in this brine whey until the next
the white cheese has a good shelf-life and lends morning. The whey then is drawn off, and the
itself to distribution and marketing. Further- curd is pressed in the b o t t o m of the vat and
more, this product has always formed part ground afterwards. More salt is added to bring
of the dietary pattern of these countries. the salt content of the curd u p to 6 or 7%.
Therefore, there is no social or cultural problem After the second salting, the milled curd is
involved with its use. Other advantages include packed tightly into molds and pressed.
relatively simple equipment and skill require- Descriptions of some of the Latin America
ments in making the white cheese. Cheeses are as given by Sanders (19).
In the United States, per capita sales of Queso de Cincho is also called Queso de
cheese have increased 69% during 1968 to 1978 Palma Metida. It is a sour-milk cheese made in
(17). New cheese varieties and products should Venezuela. It is spherical, 20 to 40 cm in
facilitate further growth in this area. Latin diameter, and is wrapped in palm leaves.
American white cheese appears to offer a Queso de Hoja is made in Puerto Rico. Fresh
considerable potential as a product or a food cow's milk is coagulated, the curd is cut into
ingredient (2). In addition, the white cheese blocks about 15 cm square and 5 cm thick, and
offers economic advantages due to its relatively part of the whey is "drained" off. Then the
short ripening period, high yield, and excep- blocks of curd are immersed in water or whey
tional functionality, i.e., frying ability without at 66°C. This treatment forms a tough layer of
melting (3). curd on the outside of the block. The curds are
pressed with broad wooden paddle. Salt is
sprinkled on the surface, and each piece of curd
M E T H O D S OF M A N U F A C T U R I N G is folded in layers, wrapped in cloth, and
L A T I N A M E R I C A N WHITE CHEESE squeezed to force out the whey. When cut, the
Queso Blanco type cheese in Latin American thin layers of curd are distinct and look like
countries is made on farms as well as in industri- leaves resting on each other.
al plants. Much cheesemaking is still on farms Queso del Pais is a white, pressed semisoft,
or in small cheese plants where proper heating and perishable cheese made in Puerto Rico.

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 64, No. 3, 1981


554 TORRES AND CHANDAN

Neither starter nor rennet is used. The curd is Curd Formation


coagulated with heat and acid, and it is neu-
The method of making Latin American
tralized further with sodium bicarbonate.
White cheese varies with countries. In the same
Other white cheeses common in Venezuela
country, different farms use different methods.
are as described by Eekhog-Stork (6).
Siapantas and Kosikowski (24) studied the
Queso de Mano takes its name from the curd
manufacture of good quality Latin American
worked by hand until the right consistency is
white cheese with lactic, tartaric, citric, and
achieved. The procedure is similar to that of
phosphoric acid as curdling agents. They
Mozzarella cheese. The cheese is put in layers in
reported that a high milk acidity leads to
wooden molds where it remains for 24 h.
increased losses of protein and fat in whey. This
Young Queso de Mano is packed in banana
loss was attributed to the formation of a fine
leaves to retain moisture and give it a banana
coagulum during heating.
leaf aroma.
Chandan et al. (3) reported production of
Queso Llanero is made when fresh milk with
Queso Blanco type cheese by direct acidification
starter and salt is left in the cheese vat for 24 h
of whole milk to pH 4.7 to 4.8 with a food
until it has coagulated. Curd is placed in molds grade acid at 82°C and without use of rennet or
and becomes hard and crumbly. It has a strong a lactic culture. Other coagulants that work are
taste.
acid whey concentrates (12), acetic acid (21),
Some domestic cheeses of Mexico are as lemon juice, vinegar, and yogurt (13).
described by Kosikowski (14).
Queso Enchilado starts out as Queso Blanco
made from renneted milk. The pressed cheese, COMPOSITION OF
weighing 12 kg, is held for about 10 days. Then LATIN AMERICAN WHITE CHEESE
it is immersed in chili sauce to attain a hot According to Siapantas and Kosikowski (22)
spicy flavor. the average composition of Latin American
Queso Oaxaca is a highly yellow, close White cheese is 50% moisture, 24.9% total
bodied, soft, smooth textured cheese without protein, and 19% fat. However, Davis (5)
rind. It displays a bland flavor with a medi- reported that the moisture in fresh cheese
um salty taste. Cheese is made from pasteurized ranges from 40 to 44% and is sold within
milk with starter and rennet. Curd is cooked to a week. The drier cheese has 35 to 39% moisture
39°C and to pH 5.2. Curds then are heated in and is left to mature. Sometimes it is stored in
hot water or in the vat by steam in the jacket dry salt. The hard cheese has 27 to 32% moisture.
section, and they are stretched by hand like In comparison with Cheddar cheese, Latin
Mozzarella curd. They are dry salted to 4 to American White cheese possesses 25% fewer
5%. Cheeses are molded into various shapes, calories with comparable protein. However, Ca,
including braided forms, cooled, and packed in P, and Mg content in the white cheese is 33 to
plastic pouches. 50% lower than in Cheddar cheese (3). Wong
Paneer is a form of Latin American White (28) explained that curd made with rennet
cheese popular in India and Pakistan. Whole traps most of the fat and insoluble salts of the
milk is curdled by lime juice, citric acid solu- milk, whereas in the curd formed by acid
tion, sour whey, yogurt, or lactic culture. A precipitation the insoluble salts are rendered
procedure suggested for large scale production soluble by the acid and are lost largely in the
of Paneer involves heatinfg the milk to 82"C for whey. Since about one-fourth of the phosphorus
5 min and cooling to 70 C just before adding a is held in organic combination and since the
solution of 1.0% citric acid. The curd formed is calcium becomes soluble more rapidly than the
allowed to settle, and the whey is removed. phosphorus and other ash components, the
Curd is pressed for 15 to 20 min and cut into ratio of Ca to P, as well as the percentage of
pieces, immersed in cold water; (4 to 6"C) for 3 calcium is comparatively low in Latin American
to 4 h, removed, and wiped off. The curd pieces White type cheese made under conditions of
then may be wrapped in parchment paper. high acidity. Ricotta, Impastata, and Latin
Paneer is not ordinarily held more than a day or American White cheeses contain both the casein
so before it is used. Milk containing 6% fat has and majority of the whey protein fractions of
been recommended for best quality (26). milk (13). A large proportion of beta-lacto-

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 64, No. 3, 1981


OUR INDUSTRYTODAY 555

globulin, alpha-lactalbumin, and other whey the cheese is soaked in fresh water for a few
proteins are incorporated into cheese curd hours before consumption.
because they are rendered insoluble by the Some of the skim milk cheese is smoked for
required combination of high acid (pH 4.6) and 2 or 3 days, which darkens the surface of the
high temperatures (85°C for 30 to 60 min). cheese and dries it in addition to giving it a
Beta-lactoglobulin and alpha-lactalbumin frac- smoked flavor and increased shelf-life (27).
tions of the whey protein possess the highest
biological value (PER, 3.2) and, therefore, are
considered excellent for human nutrition. In USES OF LATIN AMERICAN WHITE CHEESE
the manufacture of Cheddar and other natural Usually the fresh and dry "criollo" cheese is
cheese varieties, the whey proteins in milk consumed grated or eaten as fine crumbs with
normally are not coagulated by rennet and beans, rice, tortilla (corn flat bread), and
generally are lost in the whey. Queso Blanco Arepas (corn bread) (5). Queso Llanero has a
type cheese made with high heat and acid gives strong flavor and is used in baking or is grated
relatively higher yield than that of cheese made over a finished dish. In some places the cheese
with rennet (13, 25). is used to flavor sauces, especially the cheese
In general, the White cheese made in Latin and tomato sauce called "chorreada" that
America has good physical, chemical, and accompanies boiled potatoes or meat dishes.
nutritional properties but unsatisfactory sanitary Queso Blanco also is served with banana cake
characteristics. Boscan (I) reports 2.7 x 106 and meat to form a slightly sweet, spicy contrast
coliforms per gram of Queso Pasteurizado and (6). Paneer, in Northern India and Pakistan, is
12 × 106 coliforms per gram of Queso de used in curries, particularly with spinach and
Matera. This condition is caused by the poor peas. Peeples and Roberson (18) and Selman
quality of raw milk, postpasteurization con- and Peeples (20) explored marketing possibilities
tamination, and inadequate refrigeration sys- of Queso Blanco in the United States among
tems. Latin American and other ethnic groups that
desire the product for traditional recipes and
KEEPING Q U A L I T Y OF snacks. Chandan and Matin (2) attempted to
LATIN AMERICAN WHITE CHEESE
increase application of Latin American white
The cheese has excellent keeping quality cheese by flavoring the curd with onion and
when vacuum-packaged and kept cool (13). The garlic, caraway seeds, and hot pepper or Jalapeno
addition of high concentrations of cheese-salt pepper. They demonstrated the marketing
(8 to 25%) is a common practice to preserve the possibilities of this type of cheese for the
major milk constituents and to control the Americ~ consumer by capitalizing on the
growth of microorganisms under tropical and current and increasing demand for cheese. Latin
primitive conditions of cheese production (7). American White cheese may be used as a snack,
Microbial contamination of Iranian white in salads, as a cooking cheese in casserole
cheese produced from raw milk is controlled by dishes, grated for use in pizza and other foods,
the action of brine (16). Siegenthaler (25) or included as an ingredient in process cheese.
reported a method for storing native varieties of Queso Blanco may be used in process cheese
cheese in tropical climates. The Bedouins, manufacture in the same way as any other type
inhabitants of the steppes and deserts, do not of cheese (27). One method successfully used in
salt cheese before pressing. After cutting Central America employs the following pro-
squares of about 8 x 8 x 2 em, the flat chunks cedure. To 2.05 kg of ground white cheese are
are sprinkled with salt and piled upon each added 113.5 g of butter, 178.8 g of water, and
other to let the salt penetrate. After a few 56.8 g of emulsifier (disodium phosphate) in a
hours, the cheese squares are placed in a wire steam jacketed processing kettle. After heating
basket and immersed for a few seconds in to 70°C in 4 rain, the steam is shut off, the
nearly boiling water containing about 10% salt. product is held at that temperature for 1 rain,
The treated chunks are kept in glass jars or and then it is poured into polyethylene lined
earthenware eontainers under saturated (22%) boxes. A highly acceptable product was obtained
salt solution for many months at ambient by combining with aged Cheddar cheese and
temperatures. Because of the high salt content processed as outlined above.

Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 64, No. 3, 1981


556 TORRES AND CHANDAN

Siapantas and Kosikowski (23) reported cheese (1.30 to 6.82 g of free tyrosine per 100
modifications of the functionality of Latin g of protein). They suggest that the low pro-
American white cheese by coagulating the teolysis in the cheese is due to the bacteriostatic
milk with rennet and creaming the curd as action of salt on the proteolytic microorganisms.
conventionally is practiced in cottage cheese. Davies et al. (4) found that the omission of the
Mozzarella-like stringing characteristic and salt in Cheddar cheese resulted in 50% increase
excellent melting properties were developed by in ripening rate as measured by protein break-
this procedure. d o w n . They also report moderate lipolysis
(more than proteolysis) in Latin American
White cheese. More relative lipolysis was
CHEESE RIPENING
observed in the case of Queso Llanero (up to
According to Escoda (7) the ripening process 12.06% fatty acids) than in Queso Zuliano
of Queso Blanco cheese is a two-stage process. (up to 5.20% free fatty acids). Very little
The first stage is relatively fast and is produced lipolysis was reported in Queso Fresco (up to
by the microorganisms of diverse origin in milk 1.90% free fatty acids). These differences
and capable of changing milk components. The in lipolysis among Queso Blanco cheese varie-
second stage is slower and is attributed exclu- ties are from higher contamination in Queso
sively to those organisms capable of growing in Llanero because of its manufacturing procedure
a slightly acid medium with high salt concentra- together with a longer period of manufacture
tions (8 to 25% in liquid phase). In both soft than that of Queso Zuliano. In Queso Fresco or
and semi-hard white cheeses the second fer- Queso Cocido (cooked cheese), lipase enzymes
mentation stage does not take place. The cheese may be inactivated by the cooking step in their
is generally consumed immediately or within 15 manufacturing procedure.
days after manufacture.
In the first stage 9 f fermentation, micro-
organisms transform milk components to CONCLUSIONS
generate certain flavor characteristics. If the
In Latin America, a white, relatively un-
microflora produce desirable flavor effects,
ripened cheese is made by direct acidification
Queso Blanco cheese manufactured with a
of the milk or with rennet for protein coagula-
relatively long processing period (more than
tion. This product possesses several nutritional
150 min) has better flavor than when made in a
advantages. It is relatively high in mineral and
shorter processing time (less than 90 min). At
protein and low in lactose content. In relation
this stag~, ripening is measured by changes of
to fluid milk, the White cheese has good shelf-
pH. This ripening effect is arrested slowly by
life and lends itself to distribution for marketing
the increase in acidity and decrease in moisture
purposes. Furthermore, Latin American White
content.
cheese appears to offer a considerable potential
In Latin American White cheese the salt
as a product or as a food ingredient. Limited
concentration (in liquid phase) is generally
investigation has been reported on the flavor
from 5 to 25%. According to Foster et al.
attributes and other physico-chemical ripening
(10), 4% sodium chloride in the liquid phase is
aspects of Latin American White cheese.
enough to inhibit many spoilage bacteria. Thus,
under the conditions in the White cheese, only
certain organisms are capable of surviving, and
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OUR INDUSTRY TODAY 557

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Journal of Dairy Science Vol. 64, No. 3, 1981

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