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Excerpt from

ciderhouse cookbook
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© 2018 by Andrea Blum, Nicole Blum, and Jonathan Carr 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Be sure to read all of the instructions thoroughly Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
before undertaking any of the techniques or reci-
Names: Carr, Jonathan, 1972– author. | Blum, Nicole, 1969–
pes in this book and follow all of the recommended author. | Blum, Andrea, 1965– author.
safety guidelines. Title: The ciderhouse cookbook : 127 recipes that celebrate the
sweet, tart, tangy flavors of apple cider / by Jonathan Carr
and Nicole Blum, with Andrea Blum.
Description: North Adams, MA : Storey Publishing, [2018]
| Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2018000669 (print)
| LCCN 2018007128 (ebook) | ISBN 9781612129419 (ebook)
| ISBN 9781612129402 (paper with flaps : alk. paper)
Subjects: LCSH: Cider. | Cooking (Cider) | Cooking, American—
New England style. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.
Classification: LCC TP563 (ebook)
| LCC TP563 .C38 2018 (print) | DDC 641.6/411—dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2018000669
Welcome to the Ciderhouse! viii

The Versatile Apple, 1

0�
Foundation Recipes, 6

0�
PANTRY STAPLES, 30

0�
SALADS & SOUPS, 56

0�
SIDE DISHES, 76

0�
MAIN DISHES, 104

0�
BREAKFASTS, 154

0�
DESSERTS, 170

0�
DRINKS, 196

RESOURCES, 212

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS, 214

Metric CONVERSION CHARTS, 215

INDEX, 216
Welcome to the Ciderhouse!

E very year, in the late autumn,


we find ourselves surrounded
by stacks of apple bins and the
and we have had to accept
reduced yields as a consequence
of our management strategy, but
clanking, thumping sounds of our we are committed to the long-term
old Mount Gilead cider press. Pulp approach of “do no harm.”
sprays out of the grinder overhead, Showing what can be made
and the whole barn is filled with from cider, in all its varied forms,
nanoparticles of appley-ness. We has been an important part of our
get coated from head to toe. The lives as growers and producers.
constant rhythm of the hydraulic Farmers’ markets have provided
pump shakes the floor as we build us with a loyal base of chefs,
the stacks of ground apples that home cooks, and cider enthusi-
will be squeezed at 1,000 pounds asts with whom to share our cider
of pressure per square inch. Golden products. A few years back, we
cider slowly fills the tanks lined expanded the scope of our mar-
up outside the barn. We’re always ket stall by introducing a small
exhausted at the end of the day, and line of old-time pantry prod-
even more so at the end of press ucts (cider syrup, vinegar, and
season, but the fruits of our labor will be savored for shrubs). With the food world’s recent growing
the entire year ahead. This cider is the heart of our love of all things apple cider vinegar, we wanted
orchard cycle and the basis of this cookbook. to bring one to the table that was full-bodied and
For the past dozen years, we have been grow- delicious, strong, and fun to use.
ing, pressing, fermenting, and cooking with apple Since apples are integral to traditional New
cider. We set out on our orcharding venture to England food culture, we didn’t have to look far
become estate producers of authentic traditional to rediscover the many uses for the apple and its
hard cider, which is slowly wild-fermented over the juice in the cookery traditions of our region. We
long cold winter to yield a depth of flavor that only found that cooking with cider syrup and apple
good fruit and time can create together. We are cider vinegar added depth and complexity, and
still striving to reinhabit the old orcharding ways we eagerly listened to our customers rave about
through intensive place knowledge, by learning the all the creative and delicious ways they used
cider varieties best suited to our locale and produc- these products. We shared our recipes and cook-
tion methods and by understanding how to grow ing techniques with our customers — and they
those apples with the least impact on the envi- shared theirs! We cook daily for our family and
ronment. Raising apples for cider is not the same friends, and they cook for us. Food is central in
endeavor as growing apples for table fruit: we are our community and eating meals together is a
unconcerned with cosmetic appearance and are manifestation of our connections. We share these
instead obsessed with juice qualities. Our ecologi- recipes in that same spirit.
cal principles have been challenging to implement — Jonathan and Nicole

viii
how we press our apples

1 The apples (here, Yarlington Mill) are tipped from


the bin and raked into the sorting chute, where
bad apples are removed.
2 The sorted apples roll to the bottom of the
elevator where they await their trip up to the
grinder.

3 A new press rack and cloth is loaded onto the


growing stack of ground apple pulp layers. 4 Ground apple pulp is piled on the press cloth
before it is leveled and folded up.

4
5 The stack is carefully rolled onto the press pan,
which contains about 600 pounds of apple pulp. 6 As the pressure builds up, cider cascades from
the racks!

7 Cider gushes from the press to transport tanks,


which will be trucked to the lower barn. 8 The spent pomace is ejected from the back of
the barn, where the cattle get to enjoy it.

The Versatile Apple: A Foundation of Cuisine 5


MA KES 6 PI N TS

Cider C ider vinegar is not hard to make, but it does


take considerable patience. Hard cider, when
inoculated with acetobacter (vinegar bacteria),
slowly turns into cider vinegar over the course of a

Vinegar
few months. The acetobacter float about, “eating”
the alcohol and producing acetic acid as a metabolic
by-product, yielding vinegar.
There are two general methods for making
vinegar at the home scale: using a “mother” or
using live vinegar culture. A mother is a floating,
opaque layer of cellulose that grows on top of live
vinegar. Live vinegar culture is merely fresh, raw,
unpasteurized cider vinegar — that’s it! It takes
less time than using a mother, so that’s what we
recommend. The choice of culture is important, so
pick a raw cider vinegar that has a taste you love.
A new mother will eventually form, floating on
top of the vinegar, and you can transfer it to start
a new batch or use a portion of your live vinegar.
Vinegar will be made much more quickly when it is
consistently warm (80–90°F/27–32°C is optimal,
but a warm spot by the stove or radiator will do
nicely).

1½ pints (24 fluid ounces) 4½ pints (72 fluid ounces)


raw cider vinegar hard cider (page 12;
see note)

1 Mix the vinegar and hard cider together in a 1-gallon


widemouthed mason jar. Vinegar bacteria require
oxygen to do their work, so do not fill your vessel all the
way to the narrow top; allow exposure of a generous
surface area. Fit a nonmetallic lid on the jar. (Use glass,
plastic, or a Tattler-style lid; if you use a metal lid, the
vinegar may react with it and create blackish corrosion
that would be unhealthy to consume.) Shake the capped
jar a little to aerate its contents well. Then replace the lid
with a breathable cover (for example, a square of muslin
secured by a rubber band). Leave the jar in a warm spot.

18 Foundation Recipes
Apple & Yellow Beet Jam
MA KES A BOUT 1 P I NT

W e love this savory, sweet-and-sour condiment with Risotto with


Green Garlic & Lemon (page 116), with pork chops, or as an
accompaniment to cheese. It’s an amazing addition to a cheese sandwich.
1 pound yellow beets
1 apple, peeled, cored,
and grated
The bright yellow color of the jam is a perfect visual foil for green herb ½ cup sugar
garnishes. 1 cup water
½ cup cider vinegar
(page 18)
1 Fill a pot with water and set it over high heat. Bring to a simmer, and then
add the beets and enough extra water to cover them, if necessary. Cover
the pot and simmer until the beets are fork-tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove
½ cup freshly squeezed
lemon juice
from the heat and let the beets cool until you can comfortably handle them.
Peel and grate.

2 Combine the beets, apple, sugar, water, vinegar, and lemon juice in a
medium saucepan over high heat and bring to a boil.

3 Lower the heat to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the juice is nearly
all cooked off and the apples and beets become thick, about 45 minutes.

4 Spoon the jam into a clean glass jar and store in the refrigerator. It will last
for several weeks.

Pantry Staples 39
58 Salads & Soups
Cider-Braised
Beef Short Ribs
SE RV ES 6

T hese slow-cooked short ribs are tender and falling off the bone. The
hard cider serves to cut through and balance the richness of the ribs.
Serve with mashed potatoes and Salt & Vinegar Kale Chips (page 100).
3 tablespoons salt
4 – 5 pounds beef short ribs
4 tablespoons grapeseed or
safflower oil
2 large onions, thinly sliced

1 Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C).


5 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons chopped

2 Rub 2 tablespoons of the salt into the short ribs. If possible, do this a day
before cooking and let the ribs rest, covered, in the refrigerator. If you don’t
have time, salt the ribs 1 hour before cooking.
fresh thyme
2 cups dry hard cider
(page 12)

3 Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a skillet or cast-iron pan over medium-high 1 cup sweet cider (page 17)
heat. Place the short ribs in the pan and sear to brown, about 4 minutes 1 cup cider syrup (page 22)
per side. ½ cup chopped dried figs or
dates
4 In the meantime, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a Dutch oven over
medium heat. Add the onions and brown slightly, 8 to 10 minutes. 1 teaspoon cider vinegar
(page 18)

5 Stir the garlic, thyme, and remaining 1 tablespoon salt into the onions,
then set the browned short ribs in the pot. Pour in 1 cup of the hard cider,
the sweet cider, and the syrup. The liquid should not cover the ribs completely.
2 bay leaves
1 sprig fresh rosemary
Scatter the dried figs in the pot. Zest from 1 lemon, finely
grated, for garnish

6 Cover the pot and set in the oven. Cook for 5 hours, or until the meat is
falling off the bone and a rich, dark color.
Handful of fresh parsley or
cilantro leaves, for garnish

7 Transfer the short ribs to a ceramic or heat-proof dish suitable for serving.

8 Pour the pan juices through a strainer into a large glass measuring cup.
Skim the fat from the sauce and discard.

9 Combine the defatted juices, the remaining 1 cup hard cider, and the vin-
egar, bay leaves, and rosemary in a small saucepan over high heat. Bring
to a boil, then reduce the heat and let simmer for 10 minutes. Pour the sauce
over the ribs. Sprinkle the lemon zest and parsley over the top of the dish. If
you’re not going to serve it right away, cover the dish and keep it warm in the
oven at 200°F (90°C).

150 Main Dishes


Main Dishes 151
166 Breakfasts
Vanilla Cider
Caramel Swirl Ice Cream
MA KES 1½ Q UA RTS

N icole and Andrea’s brother Kenny has always been deeply devoted to
ice cream. It’s almost religious. Despite his half-hour-long decision-
making process in the ice cream shops of our youth (which inevitably
6 egg yolks
1 vanilla bean pod
1¾ cups heavy cream
ended up with him choosing mint chocolate chip), he recently decided
1¼ cups whole milk
to open his own handmade ice cream shop on Donner Lake in Truckee,
¾ cup sugar
California, called Little Truckee Ice Creamery. He kindly created
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
this recipe for a home 2-quart ice cream machine and it is fabulously
delicious. Of course, you can also buy a scoop from him if you are ever in Cider Caramel Sauce
(page 179)
the neighborhood!
Crumbled graham
crackers or Cidersnaps

1 Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside.


(page 172), for topping

2 Whisk the egg yolks in a medium bowl until smooth. Set aside.

3 Slice the vanilla bean in half lengthwise and scrape out the seeds from the
center with a knife. Set the seeds aside, along with the bean pod shell.

4 Warm the cream, milk, and sugar in a 3-quart saucepan over medium heat.
Cook until the liquid around the edges of the pot just begins to show signs
of bubbling, about 5 minutes. Do not allow the mixture to come to a full boil.
Remove from the heat.

5 Using a cup or ladle, slowly pour about half of the heated milk and sugar
mixture into the bowl of egg yolks, stirring constantly. Do not add the mix-
ture too fast or the hot liquid may cook the egg. Pour the egg and milk mixture
back into the saucepan.

6 Cook the egg and milk mixture over medium heat, stirring constantly, until
it begins to thicken and sticks to the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes.
Remove from the heat. Be careful not to overcook.

Recipe continues on next page

Desserts 187
186 Desserts

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