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10 True Repair Case Histories of


LCD Monitors Volume 3

Brought to you by Jestine Yong


http://www.LCDMonitorCaseHistories.com

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3 3|Page
Content

1 No Power In LCD Samsung 17” 713n 5

2 Intermittent Power Problem In Benq LCD E2200 11


HD 22”

3 No Power In Benq T705 17” LCD Monitor 15

4 Display Shutdown After Few Seconds In Hp LCD 19


19” HPW19e

5 No Power In DELL LCD 20” E2010HC 24

6 No Power But Good Output Voltages In LCD 28


Samsung 931

7 Display Shutdown After Few Seconds In LCD 30


Acer AL1715

8 Burnt Power Supply In LCD ACER AL1717 41


(Modification Of External Power Supply Method)

9 Display Shutdown In Samsung LED 20” SA300 53

10 Dim Display In LG Flatron M197WAM 59


(Converting LCD Backlight to LED Backlight)

11 Bonus X (1)- Display Image Problem In Samsung 81


152s Solved
12 Bonus X (2)- Shutting Down LED Monitor 86
Repaired. Model: Sense M989C
13 Conclusion 90
14 Recommended Electronics Repairing Related 91
Information

4 4|Page
Samsung 713n No Power
Once the internal metal cover was removed I could clearly see
a dark patch in front of the power IC. This means the power IC
could have blown. The main fuse was open circuited. This lead
me to check on all the components in the primary side since the
power IC was burnt.

When I checked on the transformer primary winding with my


blue ring tester there was no light. By right it should have
about 7 to 8 LEDs light up. This suggests that either the
transformer primary winding or one of the secondary diodes
have shorted. Please see the photo in the next page:

5 5|Page
Since a shorted secondary diode can be easily checked with
analogue meter using X1 Ohm thus I focused on these diodes
first. There were two dual Schottky diodes and I found one
of the dual Schottky diodes already shorted.

6 6|Page
I used another similar part without metal casing as
replacement as seen from the photo.

After installing the diode and recheck with the Blue


ring tester I found that all the 8 LEDS lighted up.

7 7|Page
Further checking found a 15 volt and a 1N4148 diode shorted.
This means there were 5 components replaced.

After the replacement I did not turn On the monitor instead I


placed a 100 watt bulb across the place where the fuse is
located. The reason for it, just in case if there is any more
short circuit the bulb will take in all the current thus
preventing the replacement parts from blowing again.
I found that the bulb did not light which indicates good sign. I
further confirm if the power supply is good or not by measuring
the output voltages as seen from the photos in the next page:

8 8|Page
5.05 Volt-Good

12.95 Volt-Good

9 9|Page
If you get good voltages this means you can remove the
bulb and place in the fuse and power up the Monitor without
worrying the replacement parts will blow again.
Finally after everything was fixed back, the monitor came
back to life again.

10 10 | P a g e
Benq E2200HD 22” LCD MONITOR-
Intermittent Power problem

The complaint was after running for about half and hours and
if you power it off and on again there will be power blink. You
have to let it cool down for about 10 to 15 minutes then only
you can power it on. I thought the symptom was cause by
bulged filter capacitor but found all to be in good condition.

11 11 | P a g e
When the monitor is running, all the voltages are good 27volt
and 5 volt but when you turn off the power and turn on again
the power will blink. The symptom was quite weird so I began
to use the hair dryer and freezer to detect such problem. I began
to spray the semiconductors especially the power IC,
Optoisolator IC and TL431 IC.

12 12 |
The moment I sprayed on the Optoisolator IC the power
suddenly came back to life. To confirm if the Optoisolator IC
really is the problem I used hair dryer to blow on it and the
symptom immediately appeared (blinking again).

I took out the Optoisolator IC and check with my analog meter


and found it to be good. So I direct replaced the Optoisolator
IC and the Monitor worked superb with no more power
blinking problem. The part number was PC817B and it was
easy to get from any electronics shop.

13 13 | P a g e
I concluded that the Optoisolator IC broke down when it
was hot.

14 14 | P a g e
No Power In Benq t705

The complaint was no power and the solution is to replace the 8


filter capacitors at the secondary output side.

15 15 | P a g e
I thought after replacing the filter caps it will be ok but I was
wrong. The Monitor stills no power. I decided to check on
the mainboard especially the voltage regulator IC. If there is
no output or improper voltage output there will be no power.
Surprisingly there was 2.5 volt output.

This means it is either the MCU, Flash Rom or EEprom data


could have corrupted or the On/Off button have problem.
Since the On/Off Micro switch is easy to check thus I
checked this component first. Guess what, it was open circuit.
You can use a long nose plier to touch on the pins to trigger
the power supply to turn On.

16 16 | P a g e
After replacement, the Monitor now can be turned On and
Off. For your information I do not have the original type of
Micro switch in my spare part compartment thus I have to
modify another type as seen from the photo below:

17 17 | P a g e
Assuming if the Micro switch is good then I may have to
reprogram the EEprom IC or even the MCU IC provided if
I have the programs. This is why copying out the
MCU/Flash Rom/EEprom programs is so important because
you do not know when you will need it.

Conclusion- No power does not mean the power section will


have problem. Always check on the output supply voltages
from the power supply. If the supply is ok you move on to
check output voltage/s from the voltage regulator IC in the
mainboard. If still ok then you check on the On/Off switch or
reprogram the memory ICs.

18 18 | P a g e
Simple Modification To Solve Display Shutdown After Few
Seconds in HP 19” LCD Monitor HPW19e

19 19 | P a g e
Display shutdown after few seconds was the complaint by my
customer. The first thought in my mind would be one of the
backlights have problem, bulged electrolytic capacitors in
power supply secondary side, bad high voltage transformer or
dry joints. After opening up the cover, I did not see any bulged
e-caps thus my focus was on the backlights. Comparing the
backlights with known good backlights can easily know which
backlight is having problem.
From the test I found the bottom backlight have problem. You
left only two choices either to replace with a new backlight or
do a simple modification. I have chosen the modification
method so that you have the chance to learn from it. I have
done this repair tricks many times and usually it will work. I
did mention this trick also in the LCD Monitor Case Histories
Volume 2. Let’s begin.
First we need to pull out the bottom backlight connector and
put in a capacitor to test to see if it will shut down or not. If
shut down, then you may need to test few more other capacitor
values. I usually have a bunch of different value of capacitors
with me as this will save my time in picking the most suitable
one to act as backlight.

20 20 | P a g e
Note: The capacitors must have at least 2 KV and above.
The first one that I picked was 821 2kv (820 nanofarad 2000
volt) and the display no longer shut down. If it shutdown then I
will try on another value like 472 2KV 471 2KV and etc until I
found the right one. What you need to do now is to solder the
capacitor (behind the board) as seen from the photo in the next
page and increase the brightness so that the display won’t look
so dim.

21 21 | P a g e
22 22 | P a g e
There you are, a simple modification could bring the
LCD Monitor back to work again without much cost.

23 23 | P a g e
No Power in E2010HC DELL 20” LCD
Monitor
This monitor came in with no power symptom. It was brought
in by one of my customers and he had tried to repair it but
unsuccessful. The reason I said this was because I could see
some soldering mark on certain components in the power supply
especially the bridge rectifier, power FET and secondary diode.

Since my customer was not a professional electronic repairer


thus he did not really know how to perform troubleshooting
work. I took out the power FET and checked and it was
good. The fuse, big filter capacitor, Optoisolator IC,
transformer primary winding and secondary side filter
capacitors all were tested good.

24 24 | P a g e
The only component I did not check was the power IC
LD7576GS. From experience, this IC was the biggest suspect
since all other major components were tested good. I don’t
have this IC with me thus I ordered it from my favorite online
store http://www.iccfl.com and the IC reached my office in just
4 working days.

I actually can try to perform the voltage and signal test on this
power IC but judging from many case histories, SMD power
IC have a high failure rate if all other components were tested
good.

25 25 | P a g e
After I’ve got the IC and replacement was done, the Monitor
worked perfectly fine. The power supply produced 5 and 13
volt as seen from the photo below and next page.

26 26 | P a g e
27 27 | P a g e
Samsung 931 No Power but all output
voltages are good
The first complaint was no power and the common fault for this
model was to replace the three 820uf 25 volt capacitors. You can
replace with 1000uf 25 volt capacitors. I thought after replaced
the capacitor it will work fine but this time the power refused to
come on. When I checked on the output voltages they were fine.
Since power supply output voltages were good so I focused on
the mainboard. For your information the power LED signal
came from the Microcontroller Unit (MCU) and if there is no
supply voltage to this IC the power LED will not light up. A
corrupted flash rom also could cause such problem.
After checking on the supply voltage I found that there was
supply indeed going to the MCU IC and also
EEPROM/FLASH Rom IC. Since I have the Flash Rom
original bin file thus I programmed it using the EZP2010
programmer that I bought from www.iccfl.com.

28 28 | P a g e
You will not believe me, after loading in the original data taken
from my computer hard disk and programmed into the Flash
Rom, the power LED lighted up and the display appeared!

Note: From this experience we know that bulged e-caps


could cause either Flash Rom or EEPROM data corrupted.
In the future, assuming if you came across a LCD monitor with
the complaint of no power but have good output voltages
from the power supply and good supply voltage to MCU/Flash
Rom/EEprom IC then chances is high the Flash Rom data
already corrupted and need to be reprogrammed. The function
of EEprom IC is usually to take control of the OSD display and
to save current setting and will not affect on no power symptom
unless the IC is shorted. One word of advice-No matter what
type of electronic equipment you are repairing and if you could
not locate any fail hardware/components then there is a
possibility the memory IC/s could have corrupted.
Always keep/save the program of good memory ICs if
possible. You wouldn’t know when you going to use it.

29 29 | P a g e
Display Shutdown After Few Seconds In
Acer AL1715 LCD Monitor Solved

The moment I powered up the Monitor I could see the Acer


logo and then came the display. Just after 1 or 2 seconds seeing
the display it shut down and the power LED light was green.
This indicates there was problem either in the inverter board or
one of the backlights have problem.

30 30 | P a g e
The moment the metal cover was removed I could see there was
a burnt mark in one of the push pull transistors. The part
number was D1805 which also means 2SD1805. You can
Google it for the datasheet. Since the component has burnt mark
thus I have to check and make sure the surrounding components
are in good condition.

31 31 | P a g e
The secondary winding of the high voltage transformer
was checked with the Blue Ring Tester and the result was
good showing about 5 to 6 LEDs lighted up.

The small PowerTrench drive IC (built in FET) located beside


the burnt transistor was good. How do I test the IC? Simple,
just compare with the good one at the other side as seen from
the photo in the next page:

32 32 | P a g e
33 33 | P a g e

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Use the Ohms range to compare between the two ICs pins. Any
differences in the Ohms reading means one of them already have
problem. Always check the Ohms reading of the good IC pins
first for reference before you test on the suspected IC.
I also checked the non-polar capacitor located in between the
D1805 transistors. Please see the photos in the next page. If the
non-polar capacitor ESR value is out most likely the
replacement transistor would not last long and will burn again
eventually.

34 34 | P a g e
35 35 | P a g e
Note: Having a good non-polar capacitor value does not mean it
is good unless you have checked it with ESR meter. I have seen
many non-polar capacitor tested good with Digital Capacitance
Meter but failed when tested it with Blue ESR meter.
Blue ESR meter could check non-polar capacitor value from .
1uf and above. Lower value then that it will not be able to test it.

After checking the corresponding components, I concluded that


only two transistors shorted and both have to be replaced.

36 36 | P a g e
There was one problem-I do not have the original part number
with me. From experience, many LCD monitors inverter
designs were using the famous C5707 transistor. So I compared
both the transistors specification (D1805 and C5707) and found
that C5707 has a higher specification in term of Volt and the
Ampere.
Of course there are other specifications that we need to take into
consideration. Sometimes a higher Voltage and Ampere does
not guarantee it can work. The only way to find out if C5707
can be used as substitution is to test the set and monitor the
temperature with an Infrared Thermometer as seen from the
photo in the next page.

37 37 | P a g e
Turn on the set and start to take the temperature measurement
by pointing the Infrared Thermometer to the transistor you have
just replaced (C5707) and the original transistor (D1805). It is
normal for a transistor temperature to increase proportion to
time in the beginning but it has to reach a level where the
temperature has to be at the maximum point and would not rise
again.
This means if the temperature continues to increase then the
replacement transistor is not suitable for substitution or there
could be some other bad component that have not detected it
yet. In my case the temperature stops rising after about 15
minutes in operation. This is a good sign that I can use the
transistor (C5707) as replacement. If it continues to rise then the
replacement transistor is not suitable to use. You can always
compare the temperature with the original transistor (D1805)
for reference purpose. There should be some difference in

38 38 | P a g e
temperature value between the replacement and original
transistor.
Note: You can use this technique on other type of electronics
equipment especially when you have replaced semiconductor
components. The Infrared Thermometer brand that I’m using
was Victor model 303B. It is also called as Non-contact IR
Digital Temperature Gun. You can buy it from Ebay.com

39 39 | P a g e
40 40 | P a g e
Acer AL1717 LCD Monitor Burnt Power
Supply Solved

The complaint was no power and the moment I opened the


cover I could see the power IC already blown, the main filter
cap and the secondary side filter capacitors bulged also.

41 41 | P a g e
42 42 | P a g e
The fuse also was open circuited. It seems that it is not worth to
repair the power supply. Here are the reasons:
1) No information of the blown power IC. Finding the
original part number may take time. You may need to
find the schematic diagram, visit forum, call/email your
repair friends and etc.
2) The main and secondary side filter capacitors already
bulged and replacing all the caps could increase the cost of
repair
3) There could be more bad components besides the blown
IC, fuse and the bad e-caps. It will take more of your
troubleshooting time.
4) The power supply may not work even after you
have replaced the necessary components.
All the above will take lots of your time to troubleshoot and
repair and there is no guarantee that the power supply will work
again. Why not we use a better way to solve the problem? The
method that I’m going to share with you is to modify an
external power supply. It is fast and easy to fix and the best
part is it can guarantee to work.

43 43 | P a g e
Here are the steps:
First you need the external power supply that can produce two
output voltages (5volt and 12volt) and the ampere should be
about 4 to 5 ampere output. You can get this small switch
mode power supply from http://www.iccfl.com

44 44 | P a g e
Next, identify the two secondary output voltages of the burnt
power supply. Usually the outputs would be from two
Schottky diodes. Look at the center pin of the Schottky diodes.
The one that go to the inverter section is usually 12 volt
and the one that go to the Mainboard is usually 5 volt.

Now, connect 3 wires from the external power supply to the


burnt power supply. One wire goes to the 5 volt section, one
wire to the 12 volt and the last wire to cold ground as seen from
the photo in the next page.

45 45 | P a g e
46 46 | P a g e
Power up the external power supply and see if there is display
in the LCD Monitor. If there is good display this means you can
start to modify it. If there is no display you may have to find out
why. Perhaps the 12 volt from the external power supply is not
high enough to power up the inverter section. Or perhaps you
have connected wrongly and etc.
Note: Not all LCD Monitor power supply will have output 12
volt but many will have the 5 volt output. If the power supply
produces 16, 18 or even 20 Vdc instead of 12 volt then you
have to use a DC to DC converter (boost circuit) to convert 12
volt into 18 volt. You can see the small circuit board photos in
next page.

47 47 | P a g e
Note: If the original board is using 13 or 14 volt then the
external power supply of 12 volt can used. There must have
some tolerance in inverter board. This means if the inverter
section is taking in 12 volt to function, a 10 or 11 volt DC

48 48 | P a g e
supply voltage should not affect the performance of the
inverter section.
If you have confirmed everything is working fine with the new
external power supply connected, it is the time now to remove
all the components in the power primary and secondary side.
The reason to remove the components is to be able to put in
the external power supply onto the circuit board as seen from
the below photo.

49 49 | P a g e
Note: If the LCD Monitor that you want to modify have
lots of space then it is not necessary to have the components
removed in the power section. Just install it externally and
jump few wires to the original board is good enough.
In my case, the original power supply is compact and this is why I
have to remove the components and fix the external power supply
so that it could fit into the casing. Once done removing all the
components, you can place the external power supply onto the
power section. In order to secure the power supply, one has to
drill few holes (if necessary) onto the external power supply and
the original power supply circuit board. Cable ties will do a nice
job in securing the power supply.

50 50 | P a g e
Remember, just before you use the cable tie; make sure the
3 wires from the external power supply are soldered onto
the original board. You can see the photo in the next page:

51 51 | P a g e
There you are a simple modification could bring the LCD
Monitor back to life again. You no longer have to return a dead
set/burnt power supply to your customer because you are now
able to modify and make the Monitor to work again. Your
repair rate will increase thus making you more money.

52 52 | P a g e
Samsung 20” LED Syncmaster SA300 With
Display Shutdown Problem Repaired

Monitor came in with the complaint of display shutdown the


moment you connect the VGA cable. After shutting down, the
power Blue LED was still On. If the VGA cable is not
connected you would see the “Check Signal Cable” message
appear in the OSD menu as seen from the photo below.

53 53 | P a g e
For your information this is a LED Monitor thus the internal
circuit will not have inverter board. The power source is
coming from an AC adapter.

It has a LED driver board which already integrated with


the Mainboard as seen from the photo in the next page.

54 54 | P a g e
There was no inverter board in LED Monitor

Since without connecting the VGA cable and could see the OSD
error message “Check Signal Cable”, this clearly indicates that

55 55 | P a g e
the LED driver circuit and the LED backlight were good. I have
checked the input signal lines Red, Green, Blue, Horizontal and
Vertical from the VGA connector to the MCU IC and found all
components to be good. In fact by doing a simple Ohm test
reading on the components one could roughly know if the
circuit is working or not.

One thing good about checking these lines is that you can
compare the ohm reading with other lines. You can compare
the ohm reading between the R,G,B components. Similarly you
can compare the Horizontal and Vertical components. If there
is a different in Ohms reading then you can start to
troubleshoot on this particular area.

56 56 | P a g e
Since the input VGA components area was tested good I
focused on the memory ICs. There are two main memory ICs i.e
the 24C08 EEprom and the Flash Rom 25x40 as seen from the
photo below.

First I removed the EEprom IC and save the data by using my


EZP2010 programmer. After saving the original data I erased
all the files and left it blank. I then solder the IC back and turn
the Monitor On. The problem was still the same. The reason for
doing this is because in certain Monitors one can erase the
EEprom file and the MCU IC will copy the original data back
to EEprom and the Monitor will work again.
57 57 | P a g e
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I left only the Flash Rom IC but I do not have the original file
with me. I contacted Kent and he had one. He sent to me the
file (is a .Bin file) and I was able to reprogram the Flash Rom
IC and upon turning On the Monitor, immediately I saw the full
display except that the OSD menu was in other language. I
played with the setting and able to change the language back to
English.

Conclusion- Other information that I’d got was that the


Samsung LED Monitor series ranging from the size of 20” up to
24” have this common fault. This means that if you have a
working Samsung LED monitor then try saves the Flash and
EEprom IC data. Who knows one day you will use it. Just
imagine if Kent did not have the Flash Rom file I will not be
able to repair the Monitor. If you need this Flash Rom file I can
email you.

58 58 | P a g e
LG Flatron M197WAM LCD MONITOR/TV 19” Dim
Display Problem Solved By Converting the CCFL Backlight to
LED Backlight.

The complaint was no display and the power LED light was
Blue. When I tried to use a bright torch light to shine at the
LCD screen I could see faint picture which indicates the
problem in the Inverter section and not the mainboard.

59 59 | P a g e
If you could not see any picture then there is a chance the
mainboard having problem. For your information dim
display problem and display appear for few seconds and
becomes dim (shutdown) are two different problems.
Dim display problem means there was no AC supply to the
backlight. Display appears for few seconds and then becomes
dim means there was AC supply to the backlight. The AC
supply later was cut off due to problem in the Inverter section
or one of the backlights have problem.
So what causes dim display in LCD Monitor the moment you
power it up?
1. Missing DC supply voltage to Inverter IC (probably
the Pico fuse open circuit
2. Bad Inverter IC (no output to drive IC to energize the
high voltage transformer)
3. Bad high voltage transformer (shorted or open primary
and secondary winding)
4. Shorted driver transistor/IC to drive the high
voltage transformer
5. Both backlights are bad (very rare case and I’ve not
seen two backlights turn bad at the same time).
6. Bad components surrounding the Inverter IC
causing Inverter IC not producing output.

After opening up the cover I could see there was a burnt mark in
the inverter driver. The circuit board also burnt as seen from the
photos in the next page:

60 60 | P a g e
The high voltage transformer winding checked to be good.
When I connected the backlights to a working set I found that
the bottom backlight does not light up. This indicates there were
two problems- bad IC and a bad backlight. I decided to convert
the CCFL backlight to LED backlight as I believe the set could
last longer. If I replaced only one backlight and the IC I’m
afraid the top backlight may give problem in the future.

61 61 | P a g e
Converting CCFL backlight to LED backlight is not tough. If
you have the parts with you, the conversion can be done in less
than 40 minutes.

62 62 | P a g e
This is the procedure:

1) Identify the VCC, GND, ON/OFF and ADJ (ADJUST) pins


in the LED driver board.

Note: GND=ground, ADJ=adjust, N/F=On/Off and


VCC=DC supply voltage

63 63 | P a g e
2) Identify the VCC, GND, ON/OFF and DIM pins in
the inverter board.

Note: Adj pin means Dim also and the function is to adjust the
brightness. These four pins configuration is the most important
one and others are not so important and one can ignore it.

64 64 | P a g e
3) Solder LED driver board DIM and ADJ pins accordingly
to the inverter board pins as seen from the photo below:

65 65 | P a g e
4) Now remove the DC supply pin to the high voltage
transformer as seen from the picture below.

66 66 | P a g e
The supply that I have removed was 15 VDC. For other
Monitors model it can be 12 volt, 14 volt, 16 volt or even
19 volt.

Note: Since the inverter section (high voltage transformer and


the inverter IC and corresponding components) is no longer
using DC 15 volt, I prefers to cut it off for safety purpose.

5) Connect the LED backlight and do a testing first to check


if the LED will light up or not. If it lights up mean you
can fully fix the set into the LCD Monitor.

Next step is to remove the top and bottom backlights from the
casing. You must be very gentle in pulling out the backlights
without breaking the TAB bonding. If the TAB bonding have
67 67 | P a g e
problem then there is no point for you to continue to do the
modification as there is no way to repair the TAB bonding.

Gently pull out the backlights and replace with LED backlights
as seen from the photos below and in the next page:

68 68 | P a g e
69 69 | P a g e
Once done you can use the aluminum foil tape to cover the
bend metal are as it will look nicer.

Note: Usually I prefer to bend the side soft metal to remove the
backlights as I do not want to dismantle the LCD panel into

70 70 | P a g e
pieces as there will be a chance the TAB bonding or the
TCP package could tear.

6) Your next task is to remove the high voltage transformer


and other related components like the ballast capacitors,
drive IC and backlight sockets since they no longer
serve any purpose.

Now place in the LED driver board and adjust it so that you
can fix the LED board onto the inverter board. If necessary you
can drill holes to secure the board with cable ties.

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In my case I drilled another small hole on the inverter board
(make sure you don’t drill a hole that can break the circuit lines
at the back of the board) so that the wires from the LED driver
board can go through it and make connection at the desire
solder joints in the back circuit.

Once the LED backlights cable is connected to the LED driver


board you can power up the Monitor and make a test.

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Make sure you test the brightness control that it can be adjusted.

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Assuming if the Inverter board does not have the marking for
the 4 important pins/points i.e. VCC, DIM, On/Off and
Ground then you have to test those pins with your voltmeter.

1. VCC pin- It is easy to test. The highest dc voltage usually


is the VCC pin. Please don’t choose the 5 volt pin
because it is for mainboard and not inverter board.
2. On/Off- Simply place your Voltmeter red probe to one of
the pins. If the Monitor is in standby mode (without VGA
cable connected) there will be no voltage at the pin. The
moment you plug in the VGA cable and you could see
few volts (and the display appear) then that pin is the
On/Off pin.
3. Ground- This is the easiest pin to find. If your meter have
continuity reading when checking the pin and cold
ground then that pin is the Ground pin.
4. DIM- Once you have located the 3 pins then the last pins
would be the DIM pins.
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Let say you still not sure if that pin is DIM pin, what you can do
is you power up the unit (with the 3 pins connected) without
connecting the ADJ pin in LED driver board to the inverter
board. After powered up you will surely see the display. Now
select the brightness from the OSD menu and set it to maximum
and minimum value. While you are setting the brightness, place
your meter red probe to the pin and see if there is any changes
in dc volt or not. If there is changes then that pin is the DIM pin
in inverter board.

Conclusion. If you know how to convert one LCD Monitor


backlight to LED backlight this means you can convert others.
In the future if you see any LCD Monitors that has burnt high
voltage transformer, bad or weak backlights or you simply
just can’t repair the inverter board, the fast way is to convert it
into using LED backlights. With this repair trick, now your
repair rate can be increased.

Just have the parts ready and you are set to convert any LCD
Monitor to use LED backlights. The parts can be bought
from http://www.iccfl.com

Additional note:
If a LCD Monitor had a bad/burnt inverter board and if you
choose not to convert the CCFL backlight to LED backlight,
you can always just use an external inverter board to solve the
problem.

All the procedure is just the same as when you convert CCFL
backlight to LED backlight. Instead of using the LED driver

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board you use an external inverter board as seen from the
photo below:

The pins in the external inverter board is the same as LED driver
board which have the supply voltage (vcc), On/Off (Ena),
Ground (Gnd) and Adj (adjust).

Just follow the exact procedure I have mentioned when


converting CCFL backlight to LED backlight and you will be

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able to disabled the original inverter and use the external
inverter board.

Note: If you use external inverter board this means you


have to use back the existing LCD Monitor CCFL backlight
and not LED backlight.

Once you already know how to add in an external inverter board


this means you can use this information to replace bad/burnt
Laptop inverter board to a universal inverter board.

The reason why you are able to convert it is because the pins
assignment of the universal laptop inverter board is the same
as the one in the LCD Monitor LED driver board and external
inverter board as seen from the photo in the next page:

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Universal Laptop Inverter Board

Note: Before you replace the Laptop universal inverter board


make sure you can find the 4 important pins VCC, ADJ/DIM,
ON/Off and Ground from the Laptop Motherboard

You also have a choice if you want to convert the


Laptop inverter board using LED backlight.

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Note: Before you convert the Laptop CCFL backlight to LED
backlight make sure you can find the 4 important pins VCC,
ADJ, ON/Off and Ground from the Laptop Motherboard.

For more information please visit Ebay.com and type in


“laptop led backlight strip kit”.

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Bonus X (1)
How To Solve Display Image Problem In
Samsung 152s LCD Monitor
One of my friends sent a Samsung LCD Monitor (Model: 152s)
to my workshop for repair. Complaint with this monitor was
improper display. When I connected this monitor to PC, I could
see the image properly but there were some disturbance at
some place. (See the image below)

First of all I check the power supply for proper output. This
monitor is powered by 14V 3Amp adaptor. I check the output
supply of the adaptor, found steady 14V (Normal). After that I
headed towards the main board of the monitor. I opened the
monitor and inspected the main controller board for any visual
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defect such as bulged capacitors/ burnt resistors etc. Nothing
seemed like defective.
There were few supply regulators on the board. All the
regulators output supply were checked normal on oscilloscope
except the 3.3v. After replacing the filter capacitor at output of
the 3.3v regulator, the supply restored to normal. But this did
not resolve the display issue, the problem was still there. After
doing some component testing, I found two open resistors at
LVDS signal path.

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Actually those resistors were the group of 4 separate 210 ohms
resistors (resistors array) which are combined in single package.
I was not able to find the resistors with same value; hence I
replace them with 330 ohms resistors. After replacing those
resistors, display was restored to normal.

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For your information this type of resistors (termination
resistors) can be found in many motherboards. The function of
the termination resistor is to help cut down on interference in
the electrical system.

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Termination Resistors

Thanks

Vinay Habib.

India.

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Bonus X (2)
Shutting Down LED Monitor Repaired.
Model: Sense M989C
A computer technician brought this LED Monitor to my shop
and told me that it has a shutting down problem. It stays on
for about ten minutes then it starts to make ticking noise and
shuts down.

This was the first time I work on this kind of Computer Monitor.
It should be an easy fix since it has to do with shutting down. As
we all know by now that most of the shutting down problems has
to do with faulty capacitors usually in the power supply area. The
moment I took four screws off the back cover I could see the main
and the power board. In a way, it looks similar to the LCD screen
except that it does not have inverter board.

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The moment I took the screws off the power board, I was able
to actually see what was wrong in this LED Monitor.

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Two capacitors were bulged and one of them was leaking. One
capacitor was 1000uf/16 volts and the other was 825uf/25
volts. That was my first time I came across 825uf capacitor.
The strange thing is when I called the guy to buy such a
capacitor; I could not find the exact value. The closest value to
it was 1000uf/25 volts and that was very easy to find. I was
getting worried about it and I was hoping to see this monitor
come to life.
Once I replaced the two faulty capacitors, the LED Monitor
came to life. I hooked it up to my laptop and let it on for
more than two hours and everything seems to be in good
working condition.

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As you can see, the LED Monitor is On and working perfectly.
The troubleshooting method is the same with LCD Monitor
and easier to work on it because LED Monitor does not have
Inverter board. It was a new experience for me working on
LED Monitor but I was glad that all went well.
The customer told me that the electricity went out in his house
and came back and then he could smell something burning. He
has lost every hope of getting fixed. He was glad to see it
come back to life. I was too. Mission accomplished.
Thanks.
Waleed Rishmawi
Palestine
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- Check out Volume 1 and Volume 2

Volume 1 Volume 2

89 89 | P a g e
Conclusion
I strongly suggest you to reread this information for few times
and start right away all of the tips and tricks you have
learned from this E-book.

If you have questions about LCD Monitor Repairs, please do


not hesitate to email me at

jestineyong@electronicrepairguide.com

I wish you all the best and look forward to hearing your success
story.

To your success,

Jestine Yong
Bsc. Eng UK
Author of “10 True Case Histories Of LCD Monitors”

http://www.powersupplyrepairguide.com
http://www.lcd-monitor-repair.com
http://www.testingelectroniccomponents.com
http://www.findburntresistorvalue.com
http://www.electronicsrepairarticles.com
http://www.bestelectronicarticles.com
http://www.electronicsrepairfaq.com
http://www.electronicrepairguide.com
http://www.jestineyong.com

90 90 | P a g e
Recommended Electronics Repairing
Related Information
1. Samuel M. Goldwasser “Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ”. Here is
the website link http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/

2. List of Electronic Spare Parts Suppliers at JestineYong.com.


Here is the website link
http://www.jestineyong.com/category/electronic-suppliers/

3. LCD TVs, LCD Monitors, Laptops and Plasma TVs spare


part supplier: http://www.iccfl.com

4. List Of Schematic Diagram Websites:


http://www.jestineyong.com/category/schematic-diagrams-website/

Electronics Repair Ebooks

1) Power Supply Repair


2) Testing Electronic Components
3) Electronics Repair Articles
4) LCD Monitor Repair
5) Laptop Motherboard Repair
6) Laptop Repair Video Course
7) Basic Electronics
10) LCD TV Repair Tips Volume 1
11) CRT TV Repair
13) DVD Player Repair
14) Find Burnt Resistor Value
15) Plasma Television Repair
16) Basic LaserJet Printer Repair
17) Epson Dot Matrix Repair
18) Mobile Phone Repair
19) Automobile Electronics Repair
20) Computer Repair Mastery Course
21) LCD TV Repair Secrets
22) LCD TV SMPS
23) LCD TV Repair Tips Volume 2
24) LCD TV Repair Tips Volume 3
25) LCD TV Mainboard

91 91 | P
26) LCD TV SMPS
27) LCD TV Repair Secrets

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nRepair.htm

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