cos magazine

1.10

Vol.
Color
Forecast
An introduction to
spring.summer 2011

So much
choice!
How to find the right fillers
and pigments for applications

Make-up:
the new
multi-tasker
Color cosmetics aren’t
just decorative anymore
02 / F r o m th e e di t o r s & w h a t ’s insid e cos maga zin e @ me rc k . d e

Dear cosmetics professionals,

We’re delighted to bring you this issue of COSmagazine. Enjoy!

Inside, you’ll find a special report on multi-tasking make-up and how this trend
can simplify your business. Our application technology feature is all about choice,
such as deciding on what you’d like your filler to do or which effects it should have.
(And you’ll find the products to match!) Plenty of news awaits you, too: active
ingredients, pigments, and some exciting announcements from our head office. And
what would COSmagazine be without our ever-popular Color Forecast?

Dr. Matthias Lergenmüller, left Need more information about any of the products and services highlighted here?
and Dr. Hansjürgen Driller, right. Writing to cosmagazine@merck.de is the best way to get in touch. And if you’d like us
to cover a specific topic in the next issue, tell our editorial team about it. After all,
this magazine’s for you!

Sincerely,

Dr. Hansjürgen Driller Dr. Matthias Lergenmüller

Director Global Business Cosmetic Actives Director Global Business Pigments for Cosmetics

02 FROM THE EDITORS & 10 SPECIAL REPORT:

WHAT’S INSIDE MAKING THE MOST OF CHOICE
Your guide to this edition of COSmagazine. When it comes to fillers, being spoiled for choice can be a good
thing – with the right information at your fingertips.

03 PRODUCT SHOWCASE 14 PRODUCT SHOWCASE

A frosty effect pigment and a DHA upgrade spell new opportunities. In the spotlight: active ingredients for UV protection plus pigments
for elegant shimmer.

04 SPECIAL REPORT: 15 FROM THE HEAD OFFICE

News about our latest acquisition in China, our sustainability
MULTI-TASKING MAKE-UP program, and an update on our new peptide.
Tomorrow’s make-up will do many jobs at once. We investigate
what multi-tasking means and how you can take advantage of it.

08 COLOR FORECAST 16 EVENTS

The colors and trends for spring.summer 2011. An in-cosmetics preview and a schedule of upcoming events.
 Produ c t sh o w c a se / 0 3

GET FROSTED!

TIMIRON® ICE CRYSTAL

Imagine a mirror studded with brilliant sparkles. That’s the effect you can achieve with
Timiron® Ice Crystal, Merck’s new silverwhite pigment with a synthetic mica substrate.
In fact, it’s the first cosmetic pigment with a particle size ranging from 20 μm to 180 μm –
guaranteeing a dazzle with a difference for your products.

A BALANCE OF SHEEN AND SPARKLE

What makes Timiron® Ice Crystal so luminous? Its extraordinarily brilliant sparkle and clean
white mass tone are paired with a high metallic luster that creates a mirror-like effect. Timiron®
Ice Crystal also strikes the right balance between transparency and coverage. What’s more, the
particle size distribution ensures you see the whole range of sparkle, from subtle to eye-popping.

FROST THAT’S SURPRISINGLY FLEXIBLE

Timiron® Ice Crystal can “frost over” applications in both color cosmetics and personal care.
As well as ensuring the particles feel comfortable on the skin, we’ve engineered this pigment
for exceptional sparkle at low concentrations – so just a little goes a long way, even when
you combine it with other pigments. Whichever product you use Timiron® Ice Crystal in,
you can rest assured the color won’t turn gray. The secret: the synthetic mica substrate.
Luxury items, products for teenagers, transparent shower gels, vivid eye shadows – all will
stand out with intense sparkle that lasts!

Approved for international use, Timiron® Ice Crystal complies with REACH and NaTrue criteria.
If you’d like to start adding a touch of frost to your products or use the Timiron® brand name on your packaging,
write to us at cosmagazine@merck.de. Learn more today at www.merck4cosmetics.com/timironicecrystal.

INTRODUCING DHA PLUS

SELF-TANNING – WITHOUT THE ODOR

There’s plenty to like about self-tanners: they’re easy to use, fast-
acting … and they give your skin that wonderful sun-kissed look! But
using self-tanning formulations is not sunshine and roses all the time:
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) – the ingredient responsible for the pleasing
delights – can leave something to be desired. When DHA is consumed,
either in the container or during the tanning process, cosmetic
formulations often produce an unpleasant odor. You can solve this
problem at the source with one of our ingredients: DHA Plus.

DHA PLUS: IMPROVING A GOOD THING

The innovation behind DHA Plus is that it prevents typical DHA odors from
forming instead of masking the smell the way other products approach this
subject. And how does DHA Plus perform in cosmetic formulation? The
results of our studies speak for themselves: In an in-house study, 100 % of
consumers surveyed said the formulation with DHA Plus smelled better
than the one with DHA. In an external in vivo study, 29 consumers and
three professional testers reported that DHA Plus emitted a significantly
weaker odor during the tanning process than DHA.

To learn more about DHA Plus from the market leader for DHA, write to Merck
at cosmagazine@merck.de or visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/DHA Plus.
04 / S p e c i a l r e po r t : m u l t i - t a s king make- up cos maga zin e @ me rc k . d e

MEET MULTI-TASKING

MAKE-UP
Multi-tasking is a
staple of everyday life.
We channel-surf while
we’re on the phone.
We expect our PDAs
to download music
while we’re instant-
messaging with three
friends at once. The
latest addition to
multi-tasking: make-
up. This trend is set
to take off in color
cosmetics and skin
care – and to simplify
your business. Join us
on a guided tour.
ww w. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m Special report: multi-tas ki n g ma k e -u p / 0 5

WHAT’S THE TREND ALL ABOUT?

The operative word here is “simplify.” More and more consumers
are looking for fuss-free cosmetics that offer an added benefit.
Take multi-tasking foundation: It moisturizes as it corrects skin
tone and diffuses light with just one application. Multiple benefits
like these help consumers quickly and easily choose and apply their
products. So color and skin feel still play a key role, but other
factors – such as anti-aging active ingredients and anti-oxidants –
gain in importance. At Merck, we can simplify your customers’
decisions and your business, too. To help you stay in front of this
trend, we offer you all the raw materials you need for multi-task-
ing products – active ingredients and pigments from one source.

WHAT’S IN IT FOR YOU?

Multi-tasking make-up represents an excellent opportunity for
your products to stand out from the competition. As this trend
develops, claims from the fields of personal care and skin care –
anti-aging, moisturizing, UV protection, and minerals to name
but a few – will be integrated into color cosmetics. These claims
will also surface in product advertising, so you’ll be able to com-
municate multiple benefits for one product. In the foundation
example we discussed earlier, you could say that your product
protects, moisturizes, corrects skin tone, and supports a perfect
finish – all in one.

WHAT’S THE NEXT STEP?

We can put you in touch with our specialists at your nearest
Application Technology Center. They’re well-versed in finding
the right raw materials and showing you how to make the most of
them. Our formulation experts will also save you time by ensuring
that your raw materials from Merck are compatible with each
other. And when it’s time to provide documentation, you’ll find
that Merck has already done all the work for you. Any way you
look at it, taking the next step with us simplifies your business.

A CLOSER LOOK AT HOW MERCK CAN HELP YOUR MAKE-UP MULTI-TASK

PRODUCT INGREDIENTS CLAIMS

Lipstick or lip gloss Eusolex® UV pearls, Instant anti-aging, UV

RonaFlair™ Softshade, protection, light diffusion,
RonaCare® ASCIII, pearl- shiny color effects
escent effect pigments

Mineral powder Eusolex® T-S, RonaFlair™ UV protection,

foundation LDP, RonaCare® AP, mineral, anti-oxidant,
Colorona® Oriental Beige instant anti-aging, optical
wrinkle reduction

Concealer RonaCare® Tiliroside, Anti-inflammatory,

RonaFlair™ Balance Red, moisturizing, radiance,
RonaFlair™ Balance Gold, invisible skin tone cor-
RonaCare® Ectoin rection
06 / S p e c i a l r e po r t : m u l t i - t a s king make- up
MAKE YOUR
LIPSTICK
MULTI-TASK:
AN INTERVIEW WITH CHRISTIAN REIFSCHNEIDER,
LABORATORY MANAGER FOR COSMETIC PIGMENTS AT MERCK
When your customers choose or change their lipstick, they want
a lot more than beautiful color. Here are some of the key “tests”
they subject your lipsticks to:
EXCELLENT PAYOFF
Lipstick should glide onto lips and feel comfortable
on the skin.
SUFFICIENT COVERAGE
Lips look their best when saturated – not spotted –
with color.
NURTURING INGREDIENTS
Whether they contain Vitamin E or our RonaCare® AP,
lipsticks can help lips look good and feel good, too.
LONG-LASTING
No one wants to reapply after
just one hour.
WORRY-FREE USE
Customers need to hear that your lipstick is made out
of high-quality, pure ingredients before they apply it.
Of course, this isn’t everything you need to think about when
formulating your next lipstick. Shine and temperature stability are
important, too. The level of shine your lipstick should provide
will ultimately depend on current trends. As far as temperature
is concerned, in warmer climates nobody wants their lipsticks to
turn out too soft or sun-bleached. You can keep a lipstick stable
by adding wax or liquid oil to raise or lower the melting point.
cos maga zin e @ me rc k . d e
As you can see, today’s lipsticks need many things at once. To give
you some food for thought on how to turn a good lipstick into an
excellent lipstick, we sat down with Christian Reifschneider.
COSmagazine: What’s the basis of a good lipstick?
Reifschneider: At the heart of every lipstick, you’ll find a mixture
of waxy and oily components. This is what carries skincare
components – if you choose – plus a color component made of
colorants and effect pigments.
COSmagazine: And what about shine – what’s the right amount?
Reifschneider: However much you want! Our customers’ products
span the entire spectrum, from satin gloss to high gloss. The “nude
and natural” look, for example, really plays up the idea of transpar-
ency without using lots of color and shine. At the opposite end, the
“glamour” look relies on strong colors with sensational pearlescent
pigments to catch as much light as possible and emit plenty of glitter
in return. Merck’s product portfolio has all of the pearlescent pigments
our customers need to create these looks, plus everything in between.
COSmagazine: What are the hallmarks of an excellent lipstick?
Reifschneider: There are three things I look for right away. The first
is the quality of the color – is it pure and of good quality? At Merck,
we perform quality analyses, including all possible impurities to the
strictest standards. The second thing I look for is 100 % light stability.
This ensures that my beautiful red lipstick won’t change to orange,
even if it’s wrapped in transparent packaging, but especially when the
consumer applies it to her lips. Our Xirona® Le Rouge pigment is per-
fect for creating head-turning reds that stay red. The third thing is to
do what the customer will also do before buying: Test it on the skin
and look for application, skin feel, spreadability, even distribution,
coverage, and that special color and glossy sparkle effect you are
looking for. If a product fails this sensory test, people will never buy it.
COSmagazine: Red’s never gone out of style, but what are the
“in” lipstick colors right now?
Reifschneider: The current color spectrum is quite conserva-
tive. There are plenty of red shades where the accents range
from purple over red-brownish shades to pink. Wherever red is
headed, Xirona® Le Rouge will perform admirably.
ww w. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m
COSmagazine: Where do special effects fit into a good lipstick?
Reifschneider: Color isn’t the only way to help your lipstick stand out
on the shelf. Special effects can really help attract your consumers.
Take color travel, from red to copper and then gold – easy with our
Xirona® Volcanic Fire pigment. Need gold and silver? Just add Xirona®
Moonlight Sparks. It shifts between gold and silver, and makes your
lipstick look simply fabulous even when it’s still on the shelf. Espe-
cially when the colors don’t differ too much, you can still make your
range stand out with the special effects that pearlescent pigments
deliver. Another part of special effects is personal care. When you in-
clude moisturizers or anti-aging ingredients – such as RonaCare® AP –
consumers will recognize your products as the “lipsticks that do more.”
CHRISTIAN REIFSCHNEIDER,
Laboratory Manager for Cosmetic Pigments at Merck
Want to take your lipsticks to the next level? Take the first step by
writing to cosmagazine@merck.de.
Special report: multi-tas kin g ma k e -u p / 07
MAKE QUICK
WORK OF GMP –
WITH MERCK
As you may know from ISO 22716, cosmetics legislation
(Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009) stipulates that
finished cosmetic products must meet cosmetic GMP standards.
This means that raw materials for those products have to meet
certain criteria, too. To help manufacturers achieve this goal, the
European Federation for Cosmetic Ingredients (EFfCI) updated
its own guidelines on raw materials for cosmetic products in
2008. And we have some good news for you: The lion’s share
of Merck’s portfolio of active ingredients and pigments for
cosmetics already adheres to the latest EFfCI guidelines. Certifi-
cation for the rest of our portfolio is in the pipeline.
Why focus on raw materials? When they adhere to GMP, you’ll
find it easier for your finished products to meet GMP criteria –
saving you time and money on certification. So when you
choose our raw materials, you can rest easy, knowing that GMP
won’t present any obstacles.
Write to cosmagazine@merck.de to learn which of your raw materials
from Merck are GMP-certified.
08 / C o l o r For e c a s t cos maga zin e @ me rc k . d e

Color Forecast spring.summer 2011

SOLARIS

IN BLOOM

CHEERFUL
w

new
optimism 2011
We proudly present our spring.summer 2011 Color Forecast, brought to you in cooperation with PeclersParis.
As we adjust to a complex global world context, this season urges us to think positively and adopt an
optimistic outlook. This sentiment underpins all four of the season’s stories. Fresh, romantic, and modern,
In Bloom’s floral mood delights in the renaissance of Mother Nature in springtime. Wanderlust explores new
horizons and seeks out adventure and global harmony, taking time to enjoy the journey. Once again, the sun
emerges as a source of inspiration and vital energy in Solaris, recalling sunlight and fire. And in Cheerful,
color, humor, and easy charm brighten up the everyday – where real quality of life is the focus.
ww w. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m Colo r F o re c a st / 0 9

IN BLOOM lives in harmony with the rhythm of the seasons and sets a roman-
tic, yet novel and modern tone. In a hippie deluxe spirit, classic beauty is perked
up with offbeat effects as a counterpoint to a fresh and quirky personality.
The attention rests on nature’s gift of rejuvenation in springtime. Drawing on
countryside flowers and foliage, the pink and yellow-green palette plays with
golden reflections.

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE Tender and tart greens complement perfectly pale and
matte complexions. Whether it’s pale greenish golds or natural lip tones with a
light iridescent sheen, an ultra-fresh monochromatic beauty mood dominates.

WANDERLUST looks to traveling and nomadism to bring adventure and open

up new horizons. Tuning into the slow trend, it also celebrates the luxury of
bare essentials. Cosmopolitan and sophisticated, the look is sheer “East meets
West” and easy elegance. Glamorous beauty exudes a new nude spirit with
washed, faded, and bleached half-tones offset by more intense shades and
“femme fatale”-feel.

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE Playing with shadow and light on very pale com-
plexions, make-up is heavy on the eyes – smoky or greasy – and mostly matte.
Natural lip shades like rosewood are contrasted with cold metallic shades of
red, blue, and ocher.

SOLARIS turns to the sun for reassuring warmth and comfort – and has the
warm and lively personality to match. With a focus on the essentials, a strong
sense of style is equal parts sophisticated and natural. As the sun exerts its
power of attraction, glowing reddish and solar bright tones come to the fore.
Beauty is flamboyant, with earthy tones and updated terracotta for both young
and mature looks.

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE Reddish ochers, burnt oranges, fiery reds, and charred
browns are contrasted with chalk white and pigmentary blue. Glowing complex-
ions are accentuated with a rich array of warm dark tones and a new twist to
smoky eyes.

CHEERFUL calls for simple and fresh designs that match a young, carefree,
and sassy attitude. New colors and effects remain on feminine and cute. This
simple, pragmatic, and optimistic lifestyle is reflected in flag-inspired primary
tones – red, white, and blue – that are paired with perky pastels and grating
brights. Easy, minimalist, and retro, the mood has a fresh youthful feel for day
and a graphic orientation for night.

DISTINCTIVE FEATURE Make-up and complexions are light and airy, with
cheeks and temples being the most made-up features. The intense palette plays
with subtle pearly sheens and light-reflecting pigments.

For the complete Color Forecast,

WANDERLUST head to www.merck4cosmetics.com/CF11.
10 / S p e c i a l r e p o r t : a p p l i c a t i on t echno lo g y cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e
w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m Special report: application te c h n o lo g y / 11

When it comes to cosmetics, is it possible to have too many options? Not if you know
how to navigate your way through them. As experts in application technology, Merck
is right by your side. You’ll find helpful tools along the way in our new brochure which
will guide you without difficulty through the complex world of functional fillers. We’ve
also added our new filler RonaFlair™ White Sapphire to our portfolio – more on this on
the following pages. On your journey, you’ll also come across color travel pigments that
help your products stand out on shelves plus a peptide designed for ultimate precision
in anti-aging. For top-level assistance, we have specialists at the Merck Cosmetic
Technology Center who can support you in finding the perfect solution. Bon voyage!

A PROFILE TO PINPOINT YOUR PERFECT FILLER
If you feel overwhelmed by the task of selecting your next filler,
we have some good news: Merck’s new brochure is an excel-
lent compass. At Merck, we understand that you’re spoiled for
choice. That’s why we’ve created a detailed yet easy-to-use pro-
file for each of our 18 RonaFlair™ functional fillers. The panel
guides you to the right choice – all you have to do is decide
what you want the filler to do. But how exactly do you do that?
Let’s take it step by step.
FIRST THINGS FIRST: FEEL IT
Before considering specific effects, you have to think skin-deep –
literally. Fillers must be skin-friendly and offer good skin feel; if
these criteria aren’t met, they’re already out of the running. As
nearly every one of our RonaFlair™ functional fillers is mineral
in origin and designed to offer a very good skin feel, any filler
you choose will meet both of these requirements.
message. An example: mattifying face powder. To claim that
your powder gives skin a matte appearance by absorbing oil
and sebum, you’d need a filler with a porous substrate that also
scatters light effectively.
ADD SOME FLAIR!
Now it’s time to choose your filler – and at Merck, you’ve got
an unparalleled selection at your fingertips. What makes our
range so unique? Our RonaFlair™ functional fillers are based
on different substrates with different morphologies: spheres,
crystals, platelets, and combinations of these. So you’re free to
create just about any effect you can imagine. And the marketing
possibilities are endless! We’re especially excited about our latest
filler, RonaFlair™ White Sapphire. It creates a soft focus effect
while improving your formulation’s texture – the first of our
fillers to strike this balance! For more information, check out the
feature on RonaFlair™ White Sapphire in this section.

SEE IT: YOUR FILLER AT WORK

Next, ask yourself what you want this filler to do. In other
words: What will it do for or on the skin? Effects fall into three
categories: mattifying; texture improvement; skin correction/
soft focus. As you decide, remember that the structure of a
filler determines the overall effect. What’s more, that effect dic-
tates the claim – and the claim plays a key role in your marketing
Need to find the right filler for your next product? Our experts at our
Cosmetic Technology Center would be delighted to hear from you.
Let us know how we can help by writing to cosmagazine@merck.de.
Explore the complete range of RonaFlair™ fillers at
www.merck4cosmetics.com/Functionalfillers.
12 / S p e c i a l r e po r t : a p p l i c a t i on t echno lo g y cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e

A NEW DASH OF FLAIR:

RONAFLAIR™
WHITE SAPPHIRE
Meet RonaFlair™ White Sapphire, the latest addition to our already extensive line-up of functional fillers.
Combining texture improvement, superb skin feel, and a natural soft focus effect, it’s the perfect
complement to our broad portfolio – one that’s unmatched in the industry. Our FAQs show what’s in
RonaFlair™ White Sapphire for you.

WHAT ARE THE KEY FACTS AND FIGURES? WHAT KINDS OF PRODUCTS IS IT USED IN?
RonaFlair™ White Sapphire is a pure white functional Powders (pressed and loose), eye shadows, foundations,
filler in powder form with a slight shine. Based on alu- blushes, lipsticks, lip glosses, and facial creams are
mina platelets, its particles are smaller than 16 μm. perfect for RonaFlair™ White Sapphire.

WHAT EFFECTS DOES IT CREATE? WHICH PRODUCT CLAIMS DOES IT SUPPORT?

This functional filler stands for silky feel, subtle luster, RonaFlair™ White Sapphire helps you back these claims:
and natural radiance – a unique combination of sensory luxurious/precious; long-lasting; pure; skin-friendly;
effects and optical properties that makes RonaFlair™ mineral; natural. What’s more, it complies with REACH
White Sapphire a real gem. and NaTrue criteria.

WHAT ABOUT THE BENEFITS?
RonaFlair™ White Sapphire boasts excellent slip char-
acteristics and skin feel – it simply glides on. This filler
also has superior adhesion, important when you want
your effects to last from morning to night. Then there’s
texture improvement: RonaFlair™ White Sapphire
gives softness and richness to the application texture.
Thanks to the natural soft focus effect, it blurs fine
lines and wrinkles to create the appearance of a natural,
well-balanced complexion with a subtle glow.
HOW CAN IT HELP SELL FINISHED PRODUCTS?
At Merck, we believe that RonaFlair™ White Sapphire
adds a “touch of luxury.” When it touches the skin, this
functional filler feels wonderful. And the synthetic
sapphire within evokes the aura of gemstones and jewelry.
(For more on synthetic sapphire, see the “INCI name at a
glance” section.) This all comes alive in the appearance
and the subtle shimmer. Together, these storylines give
your final product a premium look and feel.

HOW DOES THE SOFT FOCUS EFFECT WORK?

The platelets’ structure actually diffuses light, helping
contours appear softer and even more natural. At the
same time, this effect nicely balances transparency
and coverage – something many consumers in US and
European markets are highly interested in.

INCI NAME AT A GLANCE: RONAFLAIR™ WHITE SAPPHIRE

The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) is a system of names that must
be listed on every finished cosmetic product. INCI rules also stipulate that cosmetic manufacturers
specify all used ingredients. For RonaFlair™ White Sapphire, which is a functional filler based on
aluminum oxide, it is obligatory to list “alumina.” With one exception: RonaFlair™ White Sapphire
can be declared as “synthetic sapphire” due to its particular type of aluminum oxide or “alumina.”

Request more information on RonaFlair™ White Sapphire at cosmagazine@merck.de or visit

www.merck4cosmetics.com/RonaFlaireWhitesapphire.
w ww. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m Special report: application te c h n o lo g y / 1 3

Color travel pigments

A LITTLE COLOR TRAVEL GOES A LONG WAY

When you’re designing new color cosmetic shades, you don’t have to count on just one
stand-out color to make your product turn heads. Pearlescent pigments – especially
those with interference color effects – offer you more possibilities for truly eye-
catching effects. Our Xirona® Color Travel pigments in particular are a sophisti-
cated yet straightforward way to get creative. Using the right combination with
other colorants, you can achieve up to four colors within one cosmetic product.
Boasting brilliant and multiple effects, your premium cosmetic formulations
are sure to earn a second look on the shelf. Neighboring products (probably
only monochrome) will look flat and tired by comparison.

FORMULATE TO SURPRISE
Since color travel pigments shift from one color to the next, you can take full advantage
of them by using the element of surprise. This can be in un-expected places, like eyelids.
Or unexpected ways, such as taking one three-color travel pigment and complementing
it with a darker absorption color. This will create a fourth color.
What’s more, our color travel pigments are highly flexible and suitable for color cosmetic
and personal care products alike. For real radiance, choose the brilliant sparkling effect
pigments with high transparency; the medium-sized particles are perfect for a silkier MERCK APPLICATION KITS
“covering” effect. And just a small amount delivers plenty of visual impact. Blend them
with pearlescent pigments, any approved organic or inorganic color, or both – it’s DE-STRESS WITH YOUR
entirely up to you. And it’ll provide precisely the fascinating look you want! BEAUTY SPA KIT
Write to cosmagazine@merck.de for details on how to use color travel pigments in your color
cosmetics. Explore all our travel pigments at www.merck4cosmetics.com/colortravel. Looking to add a calming, nurturing
spa touch to your skincare products?
Merck’s Your Beauty Spa kit has just
Cosmetic Technology Center the thing. Seven things, in fact:
seven samples featuring the pigments
INSTRUCTION – INSIGHT – INSPIRATION: and active ingredients that bring the
spa experience home.
THE MERCK CTC
For complete information on
Part of a worldwide network of Merck’s Global Applied Technology Centers, the Cosmetic Your Beauty Spa kit,
Technology Center (CTC) in Darmstadt, Germany, opened its doors in September 2009. Larger visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/
laboratories, twice as much workspace and a modern seminar room for up to 20 participants yourbeautyspa.
are now available. Since September, local and international customers from all over the
world have taken part in customer workshops and individual training courses. Participants
came in from Brazil, Columbia, France, Russia, Swiss, Spain, Belgium, and Germany. Every-
one has gained from the expanded training facilities at the new CTC, which provides fresh
insight into the theoretical and practical aspects of pigments and active ingredients.

THINKING ABOUT TOMORROW TODAY

The CTC is already proving ideal for us to gain deeper insights into customer needs. Cosmetics
professionals are welcome to devote a full day or two to discussing new options in the
development of skin care, sun care, and a variety of eye-catching cosmetics with visually
attractive effects. Covering the fields of active ingredients, inorganic/organic UV filters,
self-tanning agents, pearlescent pigments, and functional fillers, topics can range from
formulation guidelines to raw material background information, and stable and innovative
formulations. Whatever the issue, we have a variety of experienced cosmetics application
specialists on hand to ensure you’re always on top of emerging trends and developments.
From raw materials to formulation, the Merck CTC can guide you to the right solution.
To schedule an appointment, please write to cosmagazine@merck.de.
Or learn more about the CTC at www.merck4cosmetics.com/CTC.
14 / P r o d u c t s h ow c a s e cos maga zin e @ me rc k . d e

Ronastar® Colors

R EA
A C H F O R T H E S TA R S
AR® COLORS
W I T H R O N A S TA DII S C O V ER
R THE
ROO N A S TA A R C O L O RSS RA
A IN
NBOW
A typical rainbow has seven colors – and that’s how many you’ll find in our
› Ronastar® Gold resembles lustrous gold dust.
Ronastar® Colors assortment. Based on incredibly thin calcium aluminum It combines high gloss and extraordinary bril-
liance to create a deep, pure gold.
borosilicate platelets, this range of interference pigments adds subtle sparkle
› A clean, intense blue, Ronastar® Blue features
and high luster. The best part: Ronastar® Colors are extremely versatile. delicate touches of pink for a truly multi-color
luster.
THEE D IFF FEREE NCE ISS I N T H E S U B STRATT E › For high-impact reds, Ronastar® Red offers the
Vivid colors, elegant and shimmery sparkles, shades of the rainbow, extraordinary skin perfect balance of luxury and luminosity.
feel – how do Ronastar® Colors manage it all? The answer lies in the substrate. All › Ronastar® Purple, a subtly glittering, sparkling
seven pigments are based on extremely thin calcium aluminum borosilicate platelets, violet, is perfect for creating moods both elegant
ranging from 10 μm to 100 μm. The small particle size is also why the pigments feel and fantastic.
so good on the skin. And since the platelets are synthetic, there’s nothing to get in the › Bath and spa products in particular will benefit from
way of pure, clear colors – and all you need is a small amount of pigment. Ronastar® Aqua, a fresh, contemporary turquoise.
› Perfect for self-tanning products, Ronastar®
ENN D LEE S S AP
P PLICA
AT IO
O N P O S S I B ILITT IESS Silver is compatible with DHA. Its silvery-white
With their excellent skin feel, Ronastar® Colors are a perfect choice for color cosmetics, luster is punctuated with slight yet colorful
like lipstick, nail polish, eye liner, and eye shadow. Yet the pigments’ sophisticated glitter.
shimmer is also well-suited to personal care products such as rinse-off shower gel and › Add fireworks to products with Ronastar®
shampoo. These clear formulations allow color and luster to take center stage. Copper, a high-luster pigment that shimmers
between copper and golden red, even boasting
Loookinng foor suuperior skin fe
feel, elegant shim
mmeer, annd a seleectiion you won’tt find anyw
where else? pink twinkles at certain angles. It’s also com-
Vissit www.meerck4ccossmetics.ccom/roonaastarr too dow wnload our Ronastar® Coloors broochu ure or patible with DHA, making the pigment a good
wrrite to coosmmagaziinee@merck.de to learn mooree. choice for self-tanning formulations.

UV filters: applications beyond sun care

FIGHT FREE RADICALS IN SKIN CARE AND COLOR COSMETICS – WITH EUSOLEX® T-PRO

At Merck, we’ve observed that active ingredients are rapidly gaining ground in areas outside
of “pure” skin care. Our Eusolex® T-PRO is one of those ingredients, especially because the issue
of UV protection is here to stay. This inorganic UV filter also provides excellent protection
against free radicals, which make skin appear older. And since it mimics natural skin tones,
Eusolex® T-PRO is ideally suited to foundations, tinted emulsions, powders, and anhydrous
products. You can even mix it with color pigments for skin that looks beautiful and stays
healthy. Formulators will be delighted to know that Eusolex® T-PRO has little effect on
coverage and reduces the greasiness of oil and wax-based formulations.
For literature on new opportunities with Eusolex® T-PRO, write to cosmagazine@merck.de.
Visit www.merck4cosmetics.com/eusolextpro for complete information on this UV filter.
DESIGNING PRODUCTS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN? JAZZING UP YOUR FOUNDATION WITH UV PROTECTION?

Whether sun care, skin care, or color cosmetics – Eusolex® UV-Pearls™ are the perfect way
to add powerful UV protection with maximum safety. Thanks to encapsulated UV filters,
Eusolex® UV-Pearls™ are non-irritant to the skin and have a low allergy potential. Learn
more about our “sunglasses for the skin” at www.merck4cosmetics.com/UVPearls.
ww w. m e r c k 4 c o s m e t i c s . c o m
PRECISION COMES IN A CIRCLE
TARGET YOUR ANTI-AGING EFFORTS
WITH RONACARE® CYCLOPEPTIDE-5
Coming soon: RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5, an innovative
active ingredient which will unlock a new dimension in
effective anti-aging. Designed using state-of-the-art
molecular modeling technology, this unique biomimetic,
homodetic, and cyclic peptide uses precise action mecha-
nisms found in nature to smooth and firm skin while
boosting its elasticity.
HIGH SELECTIVITY BY DESIGN
If you think of peptides as keys and skin cell surface receptors
as locks, you’ll see how RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 delivers high
selectivity to its biological target site. The peptide provides the
best fit in the lock-and-key model due to its cyclic structure.
RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 is designed to fit to certain integrins,
skin cell receptors responsible for communication between skin
cells and the extracellular matrix. By imitating and reviving
natural processes of skin communication and repair, the peptide
helps counteract the aging process.
FLEXIBILITY IN FORMULATION
As RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 has no need for a counter-ion
(due to its shape), it provides formulation specialists with
increased technical latitude. RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5 is ideal
for anti-aging applications. It’s also highly stable thanks to its
cyclic structure.
Stay tuned for the upcoming launch
of RonaCare® Cyclopeptide-5!
Preparations are well underway,
so look for updates from us soon!
From the h e a d o ffic e / 1 5
ACQUISITION
OPENS UP
OPPORTUNITIES
IN ASIA
Did you know that China is predicted to become the world’s
second-largest effect pigment market this year? To take advan-
tage of this development, Merck KGaA acquired Suzhou Taizhu
Technology Development Co. Ltd. (often simply called Taizhu)
last September.
Taizhu is one of the biggest effect pigments companies in the
Chinese market. “The transaction is highly attractive for Merck,”
reports Klaus Bischoff, Head of the Performance & Life Science
Chemicals division at Merck KGaA, “because Taizhu’s products
complement our premium product portfolio with a range that
mainly serves the growing value-for-money market segment. In
addition, Taizhu’s customer base ideally complements our own.
In recent years, Taizhu has built an outstanding reputation as a
reliable source of high-quality effect pigments.”
Success goes hand in hand with responsibility
DOING OUR PART
At Merck, we believe that success begins with people. People
within our company and within our communities. That’s why we
take our responsibilities so seriously. And in focusing on people,
we also see ourselves as part of the community – at our individual
locations and globally. We take responsibility for all of our
activities, whether they relate to our products, employees, the
environment, or our community. To back up words with action, we’ve
set ourselves targets in five areas: product responsibility; supply
chain; employees; the environment; community engagement.
To find a complete overview of how we live
the values in our Sustainability Program,
please visit www.merck.de/en/company/responsibility.
16 / E v e n ts cos mag a zin e @ me rc k . d e

PUBLISHED BY
Merck KGaA
MERCK AT in-cosmetics 2010: Performance & Life Science
THREE DAYS, ENDLESS INSPIRATION Chemicals
Frankfurter Strasse 250
64293 Darmstadt
Ready for a first-hand look at game-changing VERSATILE FUNCTIONAL FILLERS. Germany
cosmetic pigments and active ingredients? Find out how our line of multi-tasking RonaFlairTM
Visit us at booth D14 at this year’s in-cosmetics, fillers give your formulations that “extra something” Phone: +49 6151 72-6899
Fax: +49 6151 72-916899
held on April 13–15 in Paris. at the point of sale.
cosmagazine@merck.de
A SNEAK PREVIEW FOR OUR
COSMAGAZINE READERS: HIGH-IMPACT COSMETIC EDITING & LAYOUT
EFFECT PIGMENTS. RTS Rieger Team,
POWERFUL ANTI-AGING. Learn how Xirona® and www.rts-riegerteam.de
Discover an exciting Timiron® effect pigments
new way to support create an element of DISCLAIMER
your anti-aging surprise thanks to Merck provides information
claims with our lustrous color travel on application technologies
latest active effects and dramatic, and relevant regulations
based upon our current
ingredients. mirror-like sparkle.
knowledge and opinion at
the time of printing. Merck
NEW COLOR FORECAST.
makes no representation
DIRECTIONS IN The spring.summer or warranty of any kind, ex-
SUN PROTECTION. 2011 season celebrates press or implied, including
Talk to us about how a new optimism. Join merchantability or fitness
encapsulated hydro- make-up artist Luis for a particular use, with
phobic UV filters unlock Huber at our booth D14 respect to such informa-
new opportunities for as he presents the trends tion or its application.
formulation. featured in this issue. Purchasers must indepen-
dently determine the
suitability of our ingre-
IMPRESSIVE INSECT REPELLENT IR3535®. REGISTER FOR IN-COSMETICS
dients for the purchaser’s
Explore effective lice protection for children TODAY AT WWW.IN-COSMETICS.COM –
intended product, use
and adults alike – plus a kit that features our IT’S INSIGHT AND INSPIRATION YOU DON’T or process. Purchaser is
tested formulation and fresh sales ideas. WANT TO MISS. responsible for observing
all laws and regulations
relevant to such products,
uses or processes. The
EVENTS IN 2010 foregoing information and
suggestions are also pro-
April 13–15 IN-COSMETICS, PARIS www.in-cosmetics.com vided without warranty of
non-infringement as to the
May 5–7 FORUM COSMETICUM, INTERLAKEN, SWITZERLAND www.swissscc.ch
intellectual property rights
May 9–10 HPCI CONGRESS, ISTANBUL www.hpci-congress.com of third parties, and shall
not be construed as any
May 11–12 SCC SUPPLIERS’ DAY, EDISON, NJ, USA www.scconline.org inducement to infringe the
rights of third parties.
May 26 BDIH WORKSHOP, MANNHEIM, GERMANY www.bdih.de

June 2–3 ANTI-AGING SKIN CARE CONFERENCE, LONDON www.summit-events.com

September 20–23 26TH IFSCC CONGRESS, BUENOS AIRES www.ifscc2010.com

October 13–15 SEPAWA CONGRESS & EDC CONFERENCE, FULDA, GERMANY www.sepawa.com

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