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Plans - Assembly Manual

These Plans are sold solely for non-Commercial purposes and their
sale in no way licenses any individual or firm to reproduce the Sno - Skat
in any form for resale. To do so will constitute direct violation of all pat-
ents applicable at that time.
To reproduce these Plans and Instructions in any form will constitute
direct violation of our copyright.


Copyright 1970 by Struck Corp.

Assembly Instructions - SS57 Sno-Skat

Unpacking the Kit:

Care must be exercised in unpacking the Kit to avoid bending or scratching the
various components. As the parts are unpacked lay them out neatly and check the
parts against the enclosed Parts List. Notify us immediately of any shortages.
Setting up for Assembly:

It is best to set the Body in an upright position on the edges of two saw-horses
or on top of a crate. This will allow you to easily work around and underneath the
Sno-Skat. NOTE: The directions 'Left & Right' and 'Upper & Lower1 referred to
in the following instructions are determined by standing behind the Sno-Skat and
looking forward. 'Inside' refers to the side of a part which is closest to an imagi-
nary center line running down the length of the Sno-Skat. 'Outside' refers to the
side farthest from the above defined center line.


All Bearings are lifetime lubricated and sealed. Follow manufacturer's r e -

commendation on Engine and periodically oil #24 Drive Chain with light oil.


1. Insert threaded ends of #3 Pulls into 1/2" holes on inside of # 1H Brackets.

Slide 3/8 WI Washer over each protruding threaded end of #3 Pulls and loosely turn
on two 3/8 Nuts. (Note: #3 Pull must lie flat against inside of #1H Bracket)

2. From the right side insert the #15 Pivot Rod through the 5/8 slot in#lH Bracket
and then into the 5/8 hole in #3 Pull. In proper order slide onto #15 Rod, #14, 12
and 13 Tubes spacing them with #26 Track Idlers. Insert end of Rod into left #3
Pull and #1H Bracket. Shim out ends of #15 Rod with 5/8 WI Washers on each side
of Body and secure with 5/8 Snap Ring.

3. On each end of #5A and 5B Rods of #5 Boggie Assembly, slide on seven 5/8 WI
Washers. Slide on #28 Boggie Wheel over each of these ends, shim out further as
necessary with 5/8 WI Washers and secure all ends with 5/8 Snap Rings.
4. Insert #5 Assembly into #1 Body keeping the #5B Rod forward. Secure by
passing a #15 Pivot Rod through the 5/8 hole in side wall of Body and into the #5D
Tube of #5 Assembly passing Rod end through 5/8 hole on other side wall of Body.
(Note: you may use 5/8 WI Washers inside between #5D Tube and inside wall to
take up any side-play). Secure protruding ends of #15 Rod with 5/8 WI Washers
and 5/8 Snap Rings.
5. Take #6 Drive Shaft Assembly and slide two 5/8 WI Washers onto "sprocket"
end. Insert the #6 Assembly into #1 Body keeping the sprocket on the left and
sliding it into the "notch" of # 1C Guard. Assemble #27 Self-aligning Bearings by
placing the "bearing sphere" between the two stamped bearing shell halves. Slide
end of Bearing (containing the two set screws) onto the respective ends of #6 Shaft
and at the same time engage ends of 1/4-20 x 3/4 Weldscrews in Body with the two
1/4" square holes in each Bearing assembly.
Secure each Bearing with 1/4 WI Washer, Lock Washer, and Nut. Secure the two
set screws in #27 Bearings with Allen Wrench provided.

6. Insert each #7 Leg Assembly in their respective #1I Tubes. (Note: on each
side the #7B Stop must point forward - note drawing showing proper location of
#7 "left" Leg). Slide #8 Arm over end of respective #7 Leg and secure by driving
in 5/16 x 2 Spring Pin. (Note: any play can be taken up with 7/8 WI Washer be-
tween top of #11 Tube and #8 Arm).

7. Insert #4 Tiller Assembly into the center #1I Tube of #1 Body Assembly.
(Note: use 7/8 WI Washers between top of #1I Tube and #4C Plate to raise #4C
Plate so it is level with the #8 Arms on each side). Below use 7/8 WI Washers to
shim out lower end of #4A Tiller and secure with 1-1/2 x 1/8 Cotter Pin.
8. Following the Drawing, insert Pin ends of #9 Links into respective 3/8 holes of
#8 Arms and mating 3/8 holes in #4C Plate. Secure both left and right Links below
using 3/8 WI Washers and 1 x 1/8 Cotter Pins.

9. Slide #10A Bracket of #10 Ski Assembly onto the end of its respective #7 Leg.
Shim with 7/8 WI Washers and secure with 2-1/2 x 1/8 Hitch Pin. (Note: at this
time check steering mechanism by moving #4 Tiller back and forth to see that
everything moves freely without binding and that all parts are secure - #4C Plate
should move approximately 23° off center both left and right before hitting #1F
10. Mount #11 Bracket against Engine Case using 5/16-24 x 1/2 Cap Screws and
5/16 Star Washers over each Screw end. Slide #16 Clutch Assembly on Engine
Shaft and shim out (between Engine Case and Clutch) with 3/4 WI Washers until
Clutch rotates freely and clears the above 5/16-24 x 1/2 Cap Screw heads by
approximately 1/16". Remove Clutch from Engine Shaft. Remove Snap Ring r e -
tainer from Clutch Shaft and remove the Sprocket and Clutch Drum Assembly from
the Clutch Body. (Note: do not tamper with Clutch Shoes) Insert 3/16 square Key
on Engine Shaft and slide the remaining Clutch Body Assembly (less Sprocket and
Drum Assembly) onto Shaft and up tight against the previously determined 3/4 WI
Washers above. Using the Allen Wrench provided tighten both set screws on
Clutch Body Assembly. Reassemble Sprocket and Drum on Clutch and replace
Snap Ring retainer.

11. Slide seven 5/16 WI Washers over end of #11B Pin on #11 Bracket. Slip on
lower loop (end without the hole in side of loop) of #17 Brake Band over the 11B
Pin and secure with 5/16 WI Washer and 1/2 x 1/8 Cotter Pin. (Note: check that
you have clinched Cotter Pin properly so that it does not rub against the Clutch
12. With 1/2" long Spring over its end, screw #19 Bushing approximately 3/8"
into 10-32 threaded hole of #11 Bracket. At this time assemble the two #20 Con-
trol Assemblies on the ends of the #4B Tiller Handle. Slip Handgrips on each end.
Locate Control so it touches the edge of Handgrip and the "lever" portion of the
Control is forward. Using a Phillips screwdriver tighten these Controls in place.
(Check that they have been mounted correctly and that the "lever" operates the
Control Cable smoothly).
13. Take the end of the Control Cable from the #20 Control (mounted on the left
side of the #4B Tiller Handle) and insert it into the hollow #19 Bushing. Slide the
#23 Brake Return Spring over the Cable and insert the end of Cable into the single
1/4" hole in end of top "loop" of #17 Brake Band. From the side slide the #18
Connector into the above "loop" and engage the Control Cable in the Connectors'
slot. With a Phillips screwdriver tighten this Connector so it is squeezing down
on the Control Cable. (Note: at this point check the left #20 Control so that
squeezing the Control will apply sufficient pressure on the Brake Band so as to
completely stop the #16 Clutch from rotating - you may want to cut off some of the
end of the Cable as only about 1/8" can be protruding out the other side of the #18
Connector inside the upper "loop" of the #17 Band). NOTE: The #19 Bushing can
be screwed in or out to make finer Brake adjustments.

14. In a similar fashion insert the remaing #20 Control Cable into the #19 Bushing
mounted on the Engine and pass it through the slotted arm below. From below
mount the #18 Connector, locating it such that when you squeeze the #20 Control on
the right side of #4B Handle you open the throttle on the carburator. (Note: to
achieve the safest operation you must set this adjustment so that when the #20
Right Control is released the throttle will return to the idle position by itself).
Again, this finer setting can be accomplished by screwing the #19 Bushing in or
15. Loop the #24 Drive Chain over the 42 tooth Sprocket on the #6 Drive Shaft
Assembly and connect the Chain ends with connector link provided. By tilting the
Engine slightly, drop the Engine into the Engine Compartment of #1A Body Assem-
bly. (Check that #20 Brake Control Cable is not being pinched against the edge of
Engine Compartment - it should make a large loop as it comes out of the Engine
Compartment). Slide Engine rearward and loop other end of #24 Chain over the
Sprocket on the Clutch. Slide Engine forward and align Engine mounting holes
with slots in the #1B Mount. Slip a 5/16 WI Washer over end of each 5/16-18 x 1
Cap Screws and from inside the Engine Compartment insert into Engine mounting
holes and pass through slots in # IB Mount. Below slip a 1" square plate over
each protruding Cap Screw followed by a 5/16 WI Washer, Lock Washer and Nut.
Slide Engine forward to tighten #24 Chain (keep Engine square) and then tighten
the four 5/16-18 x 1 Cap Screws. (At this point you may attach the #20 Cables to
the #4A Tiller using the eight Cable Clips provided). NOTE: Leave slack in the
lower ends of the Cable so that the Tiller may rotate freely and at the same time
the Cables do not bind or pinch. ***Check that both Throttle and Brake Cables
operate freely no matter where Tiller is rotated. * * *

16. Using the two 1/4-20 x 3/4 Fillister Head Screws and gasket provided, mount
the #21 Elbow Assembly to the exhaust port of the Engine. Slide one end of the
#22 Flexible Tube about 3/4" onto the end of #21 Assembly and secure with Hose
Clamp. Insert remaining end of #22 Tube into the 1-1/4 hole in #1D Brace so
that it protrudes out bottom approximately 1/2".

17. Mount the Seat using the four 1 x 3/16 Round Head Wood Screws provided.
Locate the Seat by centering it on its length and bringing it back flush with the
#1G Plate. Insert Screws from below and tighten.
18. Assemble Track Segments using steel pins provided. (Note: put light oil on
pins before inserting to make them slide - check that pins are pressed completely
into Track and recessed each side). Before inserting last pin, thread Track over
#26 Track Idlers, around Sprockets on #16 Drive Shaft Assembly and under #5
Boggie Assembly. Join the two ends of Track with final pin. (Note: check that
arrows (molded into Track) point in the direction of forward travel and that the
smooth side of the Track is to the inside.

19. In the rear draw up evenly on the threaded ends of the #3 Pulls until the slack
is out of the Track (without stretching it). Check that the Track moves freely by
hand - loosen if necessary - and then tighten the second 3/8 Nut against the first
to hold position.

20. Mount the #2 Hood Assembly over the Engine and line up the three 5/16 holes
on each side with their respective mating holes in the #1D Braces. Using a 5/16
WI Washer on each 5/16-18 x 3/4 Cap Screw insert (from outside) into holes and
secure inside with 5/16 WI Washer, Lock Washer and Nut.
21. Take the roll of plastic Trim Edging and on the lower front corner of the #2
Hood start sliding the Edging on, working your way neatly around the two corners
and down to the bottom of the other side - at this point cut off remaining Edging
cleanly with a "tin snips". Repeat this procedure again on the inside edge making
sure you have pushed the Edging on as far as it will go.

22. At this point you have completed Assembly of your "Sno-Skat". It is now
important that you take time to go completely over the machine again following
the above assembly instructions and check your work. Constantly look for tight-
ness of bolts and proper location and fit of various components. Especially im-
portant are the two Control Cables - they must be adjusted and secure so they
tighten and release their respective Brake Band and Throttle. Also that the
Cables are not cut or pinched and that they are free to move.


Again, before starting the Engine check that the Track, Clutch and Drive Chain
rotate freely. Straddling the machine, standing on the running boards, squeeze
the #20 left Brake Control in your left hand and pull up on the starter rope in your
right - choke if necessary. Once started, let Engine idle to warm up; then in a
seated position, both hands on the #4B Tiller Handle (left hand still squeezing #20
left Brake Control) feet against the #1E Footrests, slowly squeeze the #20 right
Throttle Control until the Engine speeds up. At this point the Clutch will start to
engage; releasing the Brake will now allow the Sno-Skat to move smoothly away.
Squeezing the Throttle Control further will bring you up to maximum speed. To
stop release pressure on Throttle Control and you will coast to a stop. For quick-
er stops squeeze the Brake Control and you will bring the machine to a quick stop.
NOTE: The Brake is quite sensitive and only moderate pressure is required to
give you a quick, safe stop.


Periodically oil the Drive Chain with a good grade of light (winter-type) oil.
Follow the Engine manufacturer's recommendations on maintenance of the Engine.
To change the Engine oil you must remove the Engine - take advantage of this
opportunity as it gives you a change to inspect the Clutch, Drive Chain and Brake
Band for possible wear or replacement.


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