Metallic fiber

Introduction:

The hallmark of all Indian festivities is the

golden glitter of the sarees and similarly-adorned dresses worn on such occasions.There is a
famous proverb that “All that glitters are not gold” in the same way the ‘Zari’ used in the sarees
is not of pure gold but sometimes it may contain gold but not 100%.But while purchasing a saree
you would have got nice description from vendor that this sarees zari is made of pure gold but it
is not actually gold it is the “Metallic fibre”which is responsible for this lustrous
appearance.Where with the advancement of technology this metallic fibre has wide range of
application in apparel and technical field in Textiles.This article deals with the different types of
metallic fibres, their production,properties and applications.

History of Metallic Fibres

Metallic threads in general ,have been known for more than 3000 years .Gold and silver were
hammered into extremely thin sheets, then cut into ribbons and worked into fabrics of
kings,leaders, nobility and people of status . Historically, the metallic thread was constructed by
wrapping a metal strip around a fiber core (cotton or silk), often in such a way as to reveal the
color of the fiber core to enhance visual quality of the decoration. These were the first man-made
fibre which came thousands of years before nylon or rayon .The Persians made fabulous carpets
with god thread and the Indians,ornamental sarees with it.Ancient textiles and clothing woven
from wholly or partly gold threads is sometimes referred to as Cloth of Gold. They have been
woven on Byzantine looms from the 7th to 9th Centuries The Dobeckmum Company produced
the first modern metallic fiber in 1946.
In the past, aluminum was usually the base in a metallic fiber. More recently Stainless steel has
become a base as well. It is more difficult to work with but provides properties to the yarn that
allows it to be used in more high tech applications .

What Is Metallic Fibre ?

The term metallic fibre,

in its general sense, means simply a fibre that is
made from metal .In generic term it is defined as
Metallic fibers are manufactured fibres composed
of metal, plastic-coated metal, metal-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by metal . Gold
and silver have been used since ancient times as yarns for fabric decoration. More recently,
aluminium yarns, aluminized plastic yarns, and aluminized nylon yarns have replaced gold and
silver. Metallic filaments can be coated with transparent films to minimize tarnishing. A
common film is polyester Lurex .

These metal filaments were made by beating soft metals and alloys, into thin sheets, and then
cutting the sheets into thin sheets, and then cutting the thin sheets into narrow ribbon-like
filaments .

Multicomponent Metallic Filaments

In recent years, the ribbon filament of metal has undergone a transformation, which has changed
the commercial outlook, for this ancient product. The metal of the filament is now sandwiched
between layers of plastic, which protect it from the atmosphere and from other corrosive
influences. The multicomponent filaments produced by slitting sandwich materials of this type
are stronger and more robust than the filaments cut from metal foil alone. They retain the glitter
of the metal during prolonged periods of use, and have a soft, pleasant handle. Coloured
pigments may be added to the adhesive used in sticking the plastic films to the metal foil or
metallized film.

Types of Metallic Fibres

Production method
There are two basic processes that are used in manufacturing metallic fibers. The most common
is the laminating process, this are mainly American made yarns described as ham sandwich
which seals a roll of aluminum foil of 0.00045 inch thickness and 20 inch wide. To both sides of
the sheet is applied a thermoplastic adhesive to which has already been added the required
colouring matters. The adhesive-coated foil is heated to about 90-95oc, and a sheet of cellulose
acetate-butyrate transparent flim is laminated to each side of the foil by passing through squeeze
roller at a pressure of 2000 lb/in .
 These fibers are then cut into lengthwise strips for yarns and wound onto bobbins. The metal can
be colored and sealed in a clear film, the adhesive can be colored, or the film can be colored
before laminating. There are many different variations of color and effect that can be made in
metallic fibers, producing a wide range of looks.

Metallic fibers can also be made by using the metalizing process. This process involves heating
the metal until it vaporizes then depositing it at a high pressure onto the polyester film . This
process produces thinner, more flexible, more durable, and more comfortable fibers.
Methods of Metal coating:

There are 4 methods have been developed to coat fibres and textile materials by metals, they are

1. Sputter coating
2. Coating metal powder with binders
3. Electroless coating
4. Vaccum deposition

Now let us see everything in brief

1. Sputter Coating:

The equipment consists of a vacuum chamber containing an inert gas, usually argon, at
10-3 to 10-1 torr. The chamber is equipped with a cathode (target), which is the source of
the coating material, and an anode, which acts as a substrate holder. Application of an
electrical potential of the order of 1000 VDC, between the two electrodes, produces a
glow discharge. A flow of current occurs due to movement of electrons from cathode to
anode. The electrons ionize the argon gas. The argon ions are accelerated toward the
cathode at a high speed due to high electric potential. Considerable heat is
generatedduring the sputtering process, and it is necessary to cool the target. The
sputtered atoms and ions condense on the substrate to form a thin film of coating.But the

process is very expensive.

2.Coating with metal binders:

 The process is similar to conventional polymer coating. High leafing aluminium pastes
(65-70%) are incorporated into a polymeric carrier, like synthetic rubber, PVC,
polyurethanes, silicones, acrylic emulsions, etc., and spread coated on the fabric.

3.Electroless plating:

It is a process to deposit metal film on a surface, without the use of electrical

energy.Metal deposit is formed as a result of chemical reaction between a reducing agent
and metal ions present in solution. If the deposited metal acts as a catalyst, autocatalysis
occurs, and a smooth deposition is obtained. Such an autocatalytic process is the basis of
electroless coatings.

4.Vaccum Deposition:

In this process, the substrate to be coated is placed in a chamber over a set of crucibles
containing the metal to be coated in the form of a powder/wire. The chamber containing
the whole assembly is evacuated to 0.5-1 torr. The crucible is heated by resistance
heating to melt the metal. The temperature of heating is so adjusted that the vapour
pressure of the metal exceeds that of the chamber pressure, so that substantial evaporation
of the metal takes place. The temperature required for aluminium is about 1200ºC. The
roll of web to be coated is passed over a cooled drum placed over the crucibles. The
metal atoms coming out of the molten metal hit the surface of the web to be coated and
condense in the form of solid metal as it passes over the crucible. The production speed is
quite high, ranging from 150-500 m/min. The items to be coated should be pretreated for
proper adhesion of the metal.

Fiber properties
Physical properties

Fine structure and appearance:

Metallic fibres are flat, ribbon like filaments, commonly 3.2-0.2 mm (1/8-1/128 in) width. They
are smooth-surfaced and may be coloured or uncoloured.

Tenacity:

It varies with types of metallic fibre and the range is from 2.6 cN/tex to 11.0 cN/tex i.e (0.3 g/den
to 1.25 g/den)

Elongation:

It varies from 30% to 140% with the types of metallic fibres .

Abrasion resistance:
 It has good abrasion resistance .

Chemical Properties

Acids:

Generally good resistance

Alkalis:

Good resistance to weak alkalis but degraded by strong alkalis.

General:

Coated metallic filaments help to minimize tarnishing. When suitable adhesives and films are
used, they are not affected by salt water, chlorinated water in swimming pools or climatic
conditions.

Mechanical properties

As metallic yarns are used primarily for decorative purposes, they do not as a rule contribute
significantly to the strength of fabrics or garments but they may be used as a warp or weft yarns
and strong enough to withstand the weaving and knitting operations.

If possible anything made with metallic fibers should be dry-cleaned, if there is no care label.
Ironing can be problematic because the heat from the iron, especially at high temperatures, can
melt the fibers.

PROPERTIES/FIBRES Acetate Butyrate Polyester foil Polyester metallized

foil
Tenacity 2.6 cN/tex 6.2 cN/tex 11.0 cN/tex
Elongation 30% 140% 140%
Elastic Recovery 75% 50% 100%
Flex resistance 1 18 70
Abrasion Resistance fair good excellent
Moisture Regain 0.1% 0.5% 0.25%

Table 1.Comparison of properties between type of metallic fibres

Table 1 Comparison of properties of Metallic fibres with major Textile fibres

Properties Natural fibres Manufactured Cellulosic Manufactured

 Noncellulosic
Cotton Flax Wool Silk Acetate Lyocell Viscose Acrylic Polyester Metallic
Rayon
Abrasion Good Fair Fair Fair Poor Fair Fair Fair Good Good
Resistance
Absorbency 8.5% 12% 13.5 11% 6.5% 11.5% 11% 1.5% 0.4% 0.25%
%
%Elongation 3-10 3 20-40 20 25-45 13-15 15-30 35-45 19-55 13-140
at break
Elastic 75 65 95 90 48-65 - 95 92 81 75-100
recovery%
Flexiblity Fair Poor Good Excel Excel Fair Good Good Fair Good
Pilling Good Good Fair Good Good Good Good Good Very Good
Resistance Poor
Static Good Good Fair Fair Fair Good Good Poor Very Good
Resistance Poor

Producers
Currently metallic fibers are manufactured primarily in Europe with only three manufacturers
still producing metallic yarn in the United States. Metlon Corporation is one of the remaining
manufacturers in the U.S. that stocks a wide variety of laminated and non-laminated metallic
yarns .

Trademarks
The Lurex Company has manufactured metallic fibers in Europe for over fifty years. They
produce a wide variety of metallic fiber products including fibers used in apparel fabric,
embroidery, braids, knitting, military regalia, trimmings, ropes, cords, and lace surface
decoration. The majority of Lurex fibers have a polyamdie film covering the metal strand but
polyester and viscose are also used. The fibers are also treated with a lubricant called P.W., a
mineral based oil, which helps provide ease of use.

Metlon Corporation is a trademark of Metallic Yarns in the United States and has been
producing metallic yarns for over sixty years. Metlon produces their metallic yarn by wrapping
single slit yarns with two ends of nylon. One end of nylon is wrapped clockwise and the other
end is wrapped counterclockwise around the metallic yarn. The most commonly used nylon is
either 15 denier or 20 denier, but heavier deniers are used for special purposes.[8]

Uses
The most common uses for metallic fibers is upholstery fabric and textiles such as lame and
brocade . Lames are most commonly made of a polyester jacket, overlain with a thin, interwoven
metal usually steel or copper, which gives them a metallic grayish look . This apparel is
popularly used in fencing . Brocade is the special fabric in which coloured silk is used woven
with silver and gold threads which has a great demand in middle east and Asian regions . Many
people also use metallic fibers in weaving and needlepoint.

Fig 7,8 Shows the upholstery manufactured from Metallic Fibres

Increasingly common today are metaillic fibers in clothing, anything from party and evening
wear to club clothing, cold weather and survival clothing, and everyday wear. The shiny effect
that the fibres create has become the symbol of new mellinium . Metallic yarns are woven,
braided, and knit into many fashionable fabrics and trims. For additional variety, metallic yarns
are twisted with other fibers such as wool, nylon, cotton, and synthetic blends to produce yarns
which add novelty effects to the end cloth or trim.

FIG 9,10,11,12 Shows the apparel manufactured using Metallic fibres combined with various fibres in varying percentages

Stainless steel and other metal fibers are used in communication lines such as phonelines and
cable television lines. Stainless steel fibers are also used in carpets. They are dispersed
throughout the carpet with other fibers so they are not detected. The presence of the fibers helps
to conduct electricity so that the static shock is reduced. These types of carpets are often used in
computer-use areas where the chance of producing static is much greater.
Composite Yarns

Multi-filament metal fibre yarns can be twisted or wrapped with textile yarns to produce
composite yarns . These yarns are suitable for cut resistant apparel items, antistatic brushesfor
machines, lightning strike protection and antistatic filter bags

Other uses include tire cord, missile nose cones, work clothing such as protective suits, space
suits, and cut resistant gloves for butchers and other people working near bladed or dangerous
machinery.

New developments

a) Multi-functional textiles
b) Sensing yarn, woven/knitted into garments.
c) Inteligent textile applications.
d) Heatable textiles as the heating element
e) Weavable/knittable lead wires
f) Conductive seam ribbons for clean room garments

Sources
 1. ^ Federal Trade Commission Definition
2. ^ a b Kadolph, Sara J. and Langford, Anna L. "Textiles Ninth Edition" pg. 129-130.
3. ^ a b c d e f g Textile Reference Manual: Metallic Fibers: Spinning Straw into Gold?
4. ^ Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History
5. ^ AllRefer.com - Cloth of Gold
6. ^ Kim, Caroline "Humanities" The Treasures of Genghis Khan: Sept - Oct 2002 Vol. 23
#5
7. ^ Fiber Source
8. ^ a b c http://www.metlon.com/metallic.htm www.metlon.com/metallic

External links
• Lurex
• Metlon Corporation
• Suncoco Metallic Yarn
• Suncoco Lurex

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