Formulation Benefits & Guidelines

Using ISP Captivates™ GL

Microencapsulation:
JetCutter™ Technology
Oct. 30 2008
Agenda
A brief intro to JetCutter™ technology
Formulation guidelines
Prototype formulations
Summary
What is JetCutter™ technology?
These are spherical solid particles made from
different polymers such as alginate, carrageenan
or chitosan
Gelled using techniques such as ionic exchange,
pH-shift and temperature change
Typically contain 3 – 5% polymer
The polymers form a hydrogel matrix throughout
the complete bead that can trap insoluble
powders, oils and water soluble actives
JetCutter™ variables
Color
- standard colors, pearlescent, fluorescent and
luminescent
- Customize to your Pantone color
Uniform spherical size
- from 250µm to 3000µm depending on the viscosity
of encapsulation mix
Hydrogel type
- different hydrogels such as alginate, carrageenan
and/or chitosan are used
JetCutter™ variables
Bead composition
- pigments, clays, oils, insoluble vitamins, proteins,
amino acids, abrasive particles (e.g. micronized
polethylene, silica)
Microbeads are supplied as a preserved
aqueous suspension
Formulation benefits
Dynamic color release system
Specifically in surfactant systems
Smooth color rub-out in leave-on applications
Enhance moisturization
Beads can incorporate pockets of creams/lotions
Provide texture & sensory signal
Impart distinct rub-out qualities
Exciting visual Appeal
Formulation Guidelines –
ISP Captivates™ GL
Encapsulation in Hydrogels
Material to be encapsulated is mixed into the
polymer solution prior to bead formation

+
Alginate beads

Alginates Beads are made by ionic interaction with Ca++

ions
Ca++ ions acts as a cross-linker with the alginate. The level
of Ca++ ions (2.0% CaCl2) results in hard, stable beads
Alginate beads

Monovalent ions in the personal care formulation interact

and exchange with the Ca++. This leads to softening of the
beads
Many of ISP’s alginate beads are made with a small
amount of Carrageenan or Gellan-gum. As the alginate
portion is softened by the above mechanism, the
carrageenan or gellan-gum can hold the bead together
Alginate beads

Beads will soften considerably and may be unstable in the

presence of any material that will sequester calcium (e.g.
Stabilize and other Gantrez polymers)
Type of thickener
Amount of bead
For ex. 3.0% beads use level in formulation will result in
0.06% CaCl2
Carrageenan beads
Two types of Carrageenan are used
Kappa stabilized with K+, Iota with Ca++
Beads will dissolve in deionized water. The
addition of electrolyte to the formulation
is essential to keep them stable
Beads are stable when
NaCl solution level is 3.0% and above
CaCl2 solution level is 0.75% and above
Carageenan beads
Suitable for all anionic/nonionic surfactant
formulations
Will soften in warm water giving no residue in
bath/shower products
Works between pH 3 - 12
Hydrogel blends

Combines the properties of alginate-

carrageenan hydrogel
Provides a strong bead that is easy to formulate
with, but softens as the alginate gel strength is
reduced
The carrageenan in the bead provides a bead
with desired rub-out resistance
Formulating with Alginate-Carrageenan bead

GL 7158 (Alginate-Carrageenan bead)

1.0% Sodium Alginate + 0.5% Carrageenan + 25.0%
Ultramarine blue
Impact of ingredients on bead:
3.0% bead in water
3.0% bead tested with varying levels of surfactant
3.0% bead tested with thickeners
3.0% bead in water

GL 7158 in water
3.0% bead in surfactant

GL 7158 in 1.0% ALS solution + 0.1% CaCl2 GL 7158 in 5.0% ALS solution + 0.1% CaCl2
 3.0% bead in surfactant

GL 7158 in 10.0% ALS solution + 0.1% CaCl2 GL 7158 in 30.0% ALS solution + 0.1% CaCl2
3.0% bead in thickener

GL 7158 + 8.0% Acrylates Copolymer GL 7158 + 1.0% Carbomer

3.0% bead in thickener

GL 7158 + 1.0% Hydroxypropyl Guar

GL 7158 + 3.0% PVP

Chitosan beads
Chitosan – derived from shell-fish
Beads are chemically stable in most formulations
and rarely soften or dissolve
Beads are hard enough, so can be used as scrub particles
Incorporates pockets of creams/lotions
Beads break more like a capsule and are usually soft
Can contain lotions, oils and butters

Stable over broad pH range

ISP Captivates™ GL: General guidelines
The appropriate hydrogel system needs to be
selected for each formulation
Stability testing is essential
Do not rinse the beads before their introduction
to the formulation due to their sensitivity to ionic
force
Most beads will swell and soften after addition to
the formulation but some will remain unchanged
ISP Captivates™ GL: General guidelines
Add using slow sweep agitation
High shear and high pressure pumping should be
avoided where possible
Add beads at last stage of production, after
adding the fragrance and preservative
Pack as soon as possible after manufacture. This
is to preserve the original shape since softening
of the beads is common in most formulations
Prototype Formulations –
ISP Captivates™ GL
Color Burst Hand Soap
Ingredient %w/w
A Deionized Water 58.40
Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 1.00
Crosspolymer
Glycerin 4.00
B Ammonium Laureth Sulfate 31.00

Triethanolamine 1.45
Calcium Chloride 0.15
C Germaben® II-E 1.00
ISP Captivates™ GL 7158 1.50
ISP Captivates™ GL 7181 1.50
Total 100.00

GL 7158: Blue Hydrogel Beads:

GL 7181: Yellow Hydrogel Beads: Sodium Alginate + Carrageenan
Sodium Alginate + Carrageenan matrix containing 25% pigment
matrix containing 20% pigment
Scrub & Sparkle Shower Gel
Ingredient %w/w
A Deionized Water 56.55
Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 1.00
Crosspolymer
Glycerin 4.00
B Ammonium Laureth Sulfate 31.00

Triethanolamine 1.45
Cocoamidopropyl Betaine 3.00
C Germaben® II-E 1.00
ISP Captivates™ GL 7002 1.00
ISP Captivates™ HC 0008 1.00
Total 100.00

GL7002: Red Hydrogel model

HC0008: Clear Colorless particle ~800um Carrageenan
Coacervate Capsules ~500um matrix coloured red
containing Dimethicone and glitter
Skin Toning Gel
Ingredient %w/w
A Deionized Water 66.91
Sodium Hydroxide (10% aq. soln) 0.18
UltraThix™ P-100 0.65
B Sodium Hydroxide (10% aq. soln) 1.41
C Lubrajel® II XD 2.00
D Liquid Germall® Plus 0.75
Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (and) 0.10
Titanium Dioxide (and) Tin Oxide
E ISP Captivates™ GL 7245 28.00
Total 100.00

GL7245: Foundation-based hydrogel:

Sodium Alginate + Carrageenan matrix with
titanium dioxide, pigments, emollient
Sanitizing Gel
Ingredient %w/w

A Deionized Water 41.50

Propylene Glycol 2.00

Triisopropanolamine 0.02

UltraThix™ P-100 0.50

B SD Alcohol 40-B 55.00

Triisopropanolamine 0.48

C ISP Captivates™ GL 7144 0.50

Total 100.00

GL 7144: Green Hydrogel Beads:

Sodium Alginate + Chitosan matrix
containing 20% Soya Oil, waxes, V-E,
pigment
Applications
Creams
Lotions
Gels
Shampoos
Conditioners
Body washes
Liquid hand soaps
Foundations
Sample colors

GL 7197
GL 7223
GL 7145

GL 7254 GL 7198
Sample colors

GL 7249
Sample colors: Polymer composition
GL 7145 2.8% Sodium Alginate
GL 7197 3.0% Sodium Alginate
GL 7198 1.8% Sodium Alginate
GL 7223, GL 7254 1.0% Sodium Alginate + 0.5%
Carrageenan
GL 7249 0.7% Sodium Alginate + 0.3%
Carrageenan
 Summary –
ISP Captivates™ GL
Summary
JetCutterTM technology is a versatile tool for
hydrogel development
Broad variety of (bio)polymers and other materials
used

ISP CaptivatesTM GL can incorporate ingredients

according to customers' requirements
High number of variables allows customization

Exciting new products can be created

Color, texture and moisturization delivery
Summary
Alginate-based beads
CaCl2 levels in formulation should be considered

Carrageenan-based beads
Electrolyte balance is essential

Chitosan-based beads
Formulation pH is important
Contact
Your technical sales rep. for custom samples

www.ispcorp.com for webinar presentation

ISP technical labs for product design support

Thank you