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Untitled-1 1 2/12/16 2:21 PM
Cover Story Contents | C&T
March 2018 | Volume 133, number 3
®
6 Editor’s Note: Breaking Beauty

by R. Grabenhofer
8 Industry Insight: Microbiome

Interactions for Beauty
and Skin Health with G. Hillebrand, Ph.D
8 [podcast] Microbiome
DIGITAL
Interactions, Part I
with G. Hillebrand, Ph.D., and M. Kendall
80 Ad Index
32
22
Market Intelligence
9 Technology Launches
12 Product Roundup: Anti-inflammation

and Skin Soothing
14 Consumer Perspective:
The ‘Skin’ Crowd
Emerging Trends for Technology in Skin Care
by K. Steventon, Ph.D.
DE1 Changing Face of Cosmetics

DIGITAL
Global Trends Push Personal Care Back to Basics
by K. Yarussi-King
Research
22 A New Code for Skin Care, Part III:
RNA Activation—The Flipside to RNA Interference
52
by P. Lawrence, Ph.D., and J. Ceccoli
22 Author Commentary:
DIGITAL
Epigenetics in Cosmetics
with P. Lawrence, Ph.D.
Testing
32 Intersecting the Senses
Synesthesia to Connect Cosmetics with Emotion
by M. Guzman Alonso and J. Jiménez
2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018
CT1803_TOC_Masthead_fcx.indd 2 2/16/18 3:18 PM

SURFACTANTS SILICONES EMOLLIENTS SOLUBILIZERS
ISELUX
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Editor’s note | C&T ®
Contents | C&T ®
2017 FOLIO: Award Winner
EDITORIAL
64
Editor in Chief Jeb Gleason-Allured | 1-630-344-6069/jallured@allured.com
Senior Managing Editor Katie Anderson | 1-630-344-6077/kanderson@allured.com
Managing Editor Rachel L. Grabenhofer | 1-630-344-6072/rgrabenhofer@allured.com
Assistant Editors Brooke Schleehauf | 1-630-344-6032/bschleehauf@allured.com
Jennifer Novoseletsky | 1-630-344-6045/jnovoseletsky@allured.com
ADVERTISING SALES
Business Development Manager Tom Harris | 1-201-445-4702/tharris@allured.com
Fragrance Sales Paige Crist | 1-630-344-6060/pcrist@allured.com
Advertising Coordinator Kasia Smialkowski | 1-630-344-6025/ksmialkowski@allured.com
AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT
Marketing Lead Marie Galvan
Customer Service 1-888-355-5962/customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
DESIGN
Graphic Design Manager Lisa Hede
Graphic Designer James Fergus
Production Manager Bryan Crowe
CORPORATE
Partner & CEO George Fox
Partner & President Janet Ludwig
32 Author Commentary: Controller Linda Getner
DIGITAL
Synesthesia in Cosmetics Director of Events Maria Prior
with J. Jiménez and M. Guzman Alonso Digital Products Director Rose Southard
Executive Assistant Maria Romero
Formulating OTHER ALLURED PRODUCTS

Cosmetics & Toiletries Bench Reference
52 Formulating Forum: Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine: Portuguese edition
Face & Body Midwest Spa Expo and Conference
Zooming in on HD Cosmetics Face & Body Northern California Spa Expo and Conference
Soft Focus Effects Face & Body Southeast Spa Expo and Conference
Flavorcon
by N. Lionetti and L. Rigano, Ph.D. Global Cosmetic Industry magazine
Perfumer & Flavorist magazine
Skin Inc. magazine
64 An Offensive Defense World Perfumery Congress
Minimizing Preservatives,
Maximizing Protection and Resources For Subscriptions: Subscribe online: www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/subscribe
In the US, telephone: 1-888-355-5962; outside the US, telephone: 1-847-559-7558
H. Araki, et al. (8 AM–4:30 PM Central, Monday–Friday) Fax: 1-847-291-4816
E-mail: customerservice@cosmeticsandtoiletries.com
Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, PO Box 3009, Northbrook, IL 60065-3009
64 From the Vault: Print subscriptions: Available free to qualified individuals located in the United States.
All other countries may subscribe to the digital edition.
DIGITAL
Formaldehyde-donor Periodicals Postage paid at Carol Stream, Illinois, and additional mailing offices.
Preservatives in Personal Care Change of address: In ordering a change of address, give both the old and new addresses. Allow two months for change to
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Cosmetics & Toiletries® (ISSN 0361-4387CTOIDG) is published ten times per year as Jan., Feb., March, April, May, June,
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Connect with us Address: Cosmetics & Toiletries, 336 Gundersen Drive, Suite A, Carol Stream, IL 60188-2403.
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Allured Business Media makes all attempts to publish accurate information; however, this publication may contain technical
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this publication.
Copyright 2018: Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is strictly prohibited.

Cosmetics & Toiletries and C&T are registered trademarks of Allured Publishing Corporation.
CT1803_TOC_Masthead_irv.indd 4 2/15/18 11:47 AM

CREATING TOMORROW’S SOLUTIONS
CLEAN LOOK. PURE CARE.

TRANSPARENCY
FOR HAIR COSMETICS
Consumers demand purity in products and presentation: TRANSPARENCY is the eye-catcher of pure care.
BELSIL® silicone solutions give shampoo special effects to provide hair with a natural healthy shine. Strong
conditioners add light appearance while multi-effect sprays make hair care more convenient: superior in combing
and faster in drying. Enriched by an anti-frizz oil for strong anti-frizz action, hair regains a soft touch.
A heat-protection mist allows high-temperature styling and completes the hair care line.
For more information, visit www.wacker.com/transparency www.wacker.com/socialmedia

Editor’s Note | C&T ®
Breakthrough Beauty
What do you consider to be a groundbreaking trend in beauty? Blue light protection, the
microbiome and anti-pollution may be on your hot list; however, customizable products are
also a clear winner, as a recent NPD blog post1 explains. Driving the need for bespoke beauty,
of course, is the consumer.
The blog continues with three additional drivers for 2018: products that align with
consumer values, i.e., the environment, community, animal rights, etc.; luxury products as the
new norm, including personalized experiences; and experiential retail, which likely includes
some form of digital interaction. One thing these drivers have in common is they have a
direct, emotional impact on consumers.
The idea of appealing to consumer emotions is not novel. However, serious breakthroughs
are happening in the ways researchers can tap into and leverage emotional responses via
beauty products. In fact, according to MarketsandMarkets, the emotion detection and
recognition market is expected to grow from US $6.72 billion in 2016 to $36.07 billion by
2021—an impressive CAGR of 39.9%.2
For cosmetic developers, this means new ways of digging deeply into what their products
ultimately aim to achieve: emotional effects on consumers. This could mean
synergistic sensory experiences, personalized levels of efficacy or
even the minimization of undesired ingredients.
This issue encompasses these breakthrough notions in some of the
latest, most advanced thinking in cosmetic product development. It
also aims to engage your senses—if you’re reading this in print, check
out the digital edition for interactive extras including podcasts and a
unique audio experience on Page 36. We hope we’ve appealed to your
scientific excitement.
1. www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/cosmetics/3-Things-to-Expect-from-Beauty- Rachel L. Grabenhofer

in-2018--468324793.html
2. www.marketsandmarkets.com/PressReleases/emotion-detection-recognition.asp
C&T Managing Editor
CT1803_Editors_Note_irv.indd 6 2/15/18 11:52 AM

Scientific Industry Insight | C&T ®
Advisory Board
Microbiome Interactions for

Beauty and Skin Health
Eric Abrutyn
TPC2 Advisors Ltd.
Zoe Diana Draelos, M.D.

Dermatology
“It’s all relative” they say, and perhaps no better example
Consulting Services
of this resides within our own skin—i.e., the microbiome,
Angela R. Eppler, Ph.D.
Pfizer Consumer Healthcare
which interacts with our bodies and environment on
every level imaginable. From the food we eat to the air we
Trefor Evans, Ph.D.
TA Evans LLC
breathe and the products we use, these forces affect our
microbiome, which in turn dictates our health, appear-
S. Peter Foltis
L’Oréal
ance and more.
New research from Amway and Microbiome Insights
Mindy Goldstein, Ph.D.
Atlantic Coast Media Group
underlines these connections and reveals findings about
how the microbiome changes with age, affects skin health
Shuzo Ishidate, Ph.D.
Shiseido Research Center and more. The following is an excerpt from a two-part
podcast series on this subject with Greg Hillebrand, Ph.D.,
John Jiménez
Belcorp Colombia of Amway, and Malcolm Kendall, of Microbiome Insights.
Hear the full podcast series at CosmeticsandToiletries.
Karl Laden, Ph.D.
Alpa Cosmetics com/multimedia.
Prithwiraj Maitra, Ph.D. C&T: Can gut microbes affect skin health and
Johnson & Johnson
appearance?
Greg Hillebrand: Definitely. The gut and skin

Jennifer Marsh, Ph.D.
Procter & Gamble
are highly interrelated; they communicate basically
Marc Pissavini, Ph.D. one to the other. The gut influences the skin and you
Coty-Lancaster
can see this by the association of certain gut diseases
Luigi Rigano, Ph.D. with certain skin diseases.
Industrial Consulting Research
Sylvianne Schnebert, M.D.

C&T: What do we know about the skin microbi-
LVMH Recherche ome and how it impacts health and appearance?
Ron Sharpe
Amway
GH: I think, in general, we know quite a bit about
the microbiome composition. Less is known about
Leslie C. Smith, Ph.D. the role the microbiome plays in skin health. We
Consultant know it plays a role in certain diseases such as atopic
dermatitis, psoriasis, rosacea and acne. Our interest
David C. Steinberg was more in healthy skin.
Steinberg & Associates
We launched a massive study in 2015
Peter Tsolis where we measured the skin condition of
The Estée Lauder Companies almost 500 men and women, ages 9–78, Greg Hillebrand, Ph.D.
looking at all kinds of different attributes. Technology Strategist,
Russel Walters, Ph.D.
Johnson & Johnson
We discovered some interesting things Amway Beauty
about the microbiome and appearance-
Claudie Willemin related features. For example, two
L’Oréal Corynebacterium were identified that were
co-exclusive; i.e., only one was
Shuliang Zhang, Ph.D.
Coty, Inc. present before the age of ~40, Want More?
after which only the other was For more insight from Greg Hillebrand or others,
present. In addition, the “older” log onto www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Corynebacterium was related to
blotchy, red skin.
CT1803_Industry_Insight_fcx.indd 8 2/16/18 2:00 PM

Technology Launches
Magnesium Chloride ×2 Shine Reducer
Photo Credit: Natural Sourcing, LLC
Photo Credit: Provital Group

Natural Sourcing, LLC, has introduced two magnesium Provital Group combined two lotus extracts to create
chloride materials for bath and topical formulations: Nelupure (INCI: Nymphaea Caerulea Flower Extract (and)
magnesium chloride flakes (INCI: Magnesium Chloride) Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract (and) Propanediol (and)
and magnesium chloride oil (brine) 31% (INCI: Glycerin), which balances oily skin. Inspired by the purity
Magnesium Chloride Brine). They both confer relaxation of the lotus flower, the ingredient reduces factors involved
benefits. Additionally, both help to control oil and reduce in the overproduction of sebum. One application showed
redness and irritation. They also are naturally deodorizing in results in as little as eight hours.
deodorant formulations. www.provitalgroup.com/en
www.naturalsourcing.com
Anti-aging Active Detoxify Hair Roots

Photo Credit: Mibelle Biochemistry
Photo Credit: LipoTrue
Mibelle Biochemistry combats hormonally induced skin aging LipoTrue created peptide blend Anargy (proposed INCI:
with monk’s pepper berries. Densorphin (INCI: Maltodextrin Nicotiana Benthamiana sh-Oligopeptide-2 (and) Nicotiana
(and) Water (aqua) (and) Vitex Agnus-Castus Fruit Extract), Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-9 (and)
stimulates the activities of β-endorphin—the body’s own Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 sh-Polypeptide-86),
happy molecule—and DHEA, the precursor for female to help nourish, protect and detoxify hair roots.
estrogen and male testosterone. Additionally, the active helps to reactivate the hair growth
www.mibellebiochemistry.com cycle for redensifying and strengthening hair benefits.
www.lipotrue.com
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018 Cosmetics & Toiletries® |9
CT1803_Tech_Launches_irv.indd 9 2/15/18 12:58 PM

Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
Anti-inflammation & Skin Soothing
1. Ocea Defence
1
Biosil Technologies, Inc.
www.biosiltech.com
Ocea Defence (INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Laminaria
Ochroleuca Extract (and) Tocopherol) is an oily extract of Laminaria
ochroleuca extract in caprylic/capric triglycerides and supplemented
with tocopherols. This marine solution for stimulating and protecting
skin immunity improves cutaneous comfort of fragile and vulnerable
skin, preventing premature aging and reducing UV-induced erythema.
2. SensAmone P5
Mibelle Group Biochemistry
SensAmone P5 (INCI: Pentapeptide-59 (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin
(and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (and) Phenethyl Alcohol
2 3
(and) Ethyl Hexylglycerin (and) Maltodextrin (and) Water (aqua))
is a biomimetic peptide based on a component of sea anemone
venom, designed to inhibit the pain receptor present in skin. This
receptor is overreactive in sensitive skin, leading to itching and
stinging. SensAmone P5 inhibits pain receptor activation and reduces
sensitivity for more resistant skin.
3. ChiaProtect
MMP, Inc.
www.mmpinc.com
ChiaProtect (INCI: Salvia Hispanica Seed Oil) is a cold pressured extra
virgin botanical oil extracted from Salvia hispanica seeds, loaded
with high levels of phyto-nutrients, antioxidants and vitamins. Its
properties include: maintaining a calming and anti-redness effect,
reducing inflammation, providing hydration, restoring the skin barrier
and having anti-aging due to its anti-free radical capacity.
4
4. Azeclair
Corum Inc.
www.corum.com.tw
Azeclair (INCI: Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate) is an effective azelaic
acid derivative that imparts a sebum normalizing effect and provides
inflammatory protection against pollutants. Recent studies show
this ingredient can inhibit various inflammatory factors such as
interleukin-8 and matrix metalloproteinase or MMP-1, which are
induced by urban dust PM2.5 and diesel particulate matter. Azeclair
also acts as an oil control agent to normalize sebum production and
brighten the skin.
CT1803_Roundup_fcx.indd 10 2/15/18 1:12 PM

5. Synastol TC
Sytheon Ltd.
www.sytheonltd.com
Synastol TC (INCI: Terminalia Chebula Fruit Extract) stems from
the edible fruits of Terminalia chebula, which controls inflammation
by inhibiting and down-regulating two key inflammatory pathways:
lipooxygenase and cyclooxygenase. Inhibition of these two
pathways provides skin soothing effects. When combined with other
ingredients, Synastol TC has the ability to provide hydration, barrier-
building and skin-defending properties.
5 6. Izayoi
Ichimaru Pharcos Co., Ltd.
www.ichimaru.co.jp/english
Izayoi (INCI: Rosa Roxburghii Fruit Extract) is a sun care active that
acts via a newly identified inflammation pathway—keratinocytes
damaged by UVB release denatured U1RNA—which is one damage-
associated molecular pattern (DAMP). The surrounding non-damaged
keratinocytes recognize such DAMPs and respond by initiating
inflammatory reactions leading to signs of skin aging, such as
wrinkles, age spots or pigmentation. Izayoi inhibits the inflammation
cytokines induced by DAMPs.
7. Agascalm
Provital Group
www.provitalgroup.com
6
Agascalm (INCI: Propanediol (and) Glycerin (and) Agastache Mexicana
Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) neutralizes negative effects caused by
psychological stress such as skin inflammation and redness. It is a
natural active from the plant Agastache mexicana traditionally used
against “frightful and shocking” situations. An in vivo study of the
7
ingredient showed a clear improvement in skin tone and radiance, in
addition to reduced skin redness.
8. Hyalurosmooth
BASF
8 www.basf.com
Hyalurosmooth (INCI: Cassia Angustifolia Seed Polysaccharide) helps
to re-energize stressed skin. This ingredient is a botanical alternative
to hyaluronic acid that provides skin rejuvenation properties. In vivo,
it shows improvement in skin radiance and long-lasting hydration
while in vitro, it moderates the stress mediator cortisol and stimulates
collagen and hyaluronic acid.
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | 11

Roundup [Ingredients, Equipment & Services]
9. Cropure Grapeseed
Croda Inc.
9
www.crodapersonalcare.com
Cropure Grapeseed (INCI: Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil) enhances
the stability and esthetics of formulations with a nutrient-packed
natural oil obtained from grape seeds through Croda’s proprietary
refining technology for absolute purity. This ingredient features
oxidation stability and is used in a range of personal care products
including cleansers, body care, conditioners and sun protection.
10. Granactive AR-1423

Grant Industries, Inc.
www.grantinc.com
Granactive AR-1423 (INCI: Water (aqua) (and) Butylene Glycol (and)
Camellia Sinensis (Tea) Extract (and) Aspalathus Linearis (Rooibos)
Extract (and) Boswellia Serrata Extract (and) Honey Extract (and)
Tetrapeptide-14 (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Sodium Benzoate)
contains tetrapeptide-14, a specific peptide sequence that can be
used in cosmetic treatments to alleviate redness associated with
rosacea or mild sun exposure. It acts to prevent inflammation and
leaves a bright and even skin appearance.
11. Sirtalice
Lipotrue SL
10 11
www.lipotrue.com
Sirtalice (INCI: Bacillus Ferment) is an active marine ingredient
derived via biotechnology. It helps to recharge skin energy and
induce skin protein synthesis, improving strength and contraction.
The ingredient stimulates the synthesis of proteins involved in
mitochondrial respiration and energy production. It also induces key
proteins for focal adhesions and cell interactions.
12. Tea Tree Oil

Arista Industries, Inc.
www.aristaindustries.com
Tea tree oil (INCI: Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil) is used
in personal care formulations for its antimicrobial, antibacterial and
antifungal properties, as well as anti-inflammatory relief. It can be
used as an antiseptic treatment for cuts, abrasions, pimples and mild
acne. The oil also can be used in skin, hair and sun care products as
well as soaps, deodorants and antibacterial hand and mouth washes.
12

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Beauty Innovation
Discover crucial R&D insights with peer reviewed

scientific knowledge, trends, and news from the
trusted voice of the beauty and cosmetic industry.
Subscribe for FREE now!

www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/EMPOWER
CT18_House_Ad_FP.indd 1 1/26/18 5:20 PM
Market Intelligence | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• As skin care becomes more scientific,
consumers are making it a point to
better understand their products.
• Apps and brands tailoring to the consumer

experience are amassing a growing following,
leading to shifts in purchasing dynamics.
Consumer Connection
The ‘Skin’ Crowd

Emerging Trends for Technology in Skin Care
Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.

FaceWorkshops, LLC
C
Virtual Apps Educate and Sell
onsumers are finding importance in their
skin care routines, leading them to pay more
attention to the science behind their products.
Certain brands and technologies that customize
consumer experiences are fostering not only
consumer trust, but their business as well.
Ultimately, skin care consumers seek products that deliver a desired

clinical outcome, e.g., a flawless complexion. This may be perceived as an
Reproduction in English or any other language of

14 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018
© 2018 Allured Business Media.
CT1803_Mrkt_Steventon_fcx.indd 14 2/15/18 1:26 PM

Consumers approach skin care
the same way they think about diet and
exercise, and seek solutions to a problem—
beyond the hype of any brand.
English rose-petal complexion, a peach glow or image used to diagnose and recommend skin care
the perfectly even, plump, glossy and reflective routines via a smart phone. The apps serve as a
“glass” surface desired in Asia. tool to educate consumers but primarily drive
Raconteur1 recently reported on a growing revenue for the retailer or brand. If their bench-
new breed of these consumers that are savvy mark libraries are large and relevant, brands can
and informed by social media and the Internet. shift the average audience’s understanding of their
They are demanding more regarding product own skin; however, such benchmarks can also
efficacy and the purchasing experience, and are trigger insecurities and highlight flaws of which
listening to hand-picked influencers. Even so, the consumer was originally unaware.
skin type and skin concern diagnoses are still Also, recommendations are based on the claims
inadequate. supplied by the product manufacturer, whether
Enter: virtual try-on apps. These self-quan- substantiated or not, and do not take product com-
tifying apps have stepped in to capture a facial binations into consideration. Generally, the aim

Consumers demand a purchasing experience and are listening to hand-picked influencers.
of such apps is simple—to maximize consumer cea and sun damage, and to discuss the benefits
product spend. of different molecular weights of hyaluronic
acid, efficacy of actives in different concentra-
Science in Demand tions, and their safe combinations. As such,
Until recently, consumers were interested shifts in advertising reflect the new interest in
in the benefits—not the minutiae—of active active ingredients.
ingredients. However, the new group of “skin-
tellectuals” includes shrewd, intelligent and Access to Experts
affluent women who take their skin seriously. Many skin care products are now sold
They approach skin care in the same way they online; brands to benefit from the afore-
think about diet and exercise, and look for mentioned following of savvy consumers
solutions to a problem—beyond the hype of are science-based, doctor-led brands, such
any brand. These consumers are seeking active as Dr. Barbara Sturm, Dr. Dennis Gross,
ingredients at concentrations that deliver true 111SKIN, Zelens, Murad, SkinCeuticals, etc.
efficacy. According to the journalists and beauty In an overcrowded market with high levels
bloggers these women follow on Instagram of distrust, the selling point is credibility and
and YouTube, they are not interested in packag- human interaction.
ing or fantasy-like advertisements. Reportedly, customers still trust the name
The rise of this specific market segment has and face of a doctor for their advanced skin
allowed for a change in communication that care needs. The founders of these brands are
focuses on scientific detail. Members of this influencers, creators and, first and foremost,
group do their research prior to approaching clinicians. Their customers are also their
the counter, and want their retail experience to patients—working with them daily in the clinics
encourage hands-on engagement with the prod- enables them to understand skin care concerns
ucts including play, testing, experimentation well and use the direct consumer insight and
and staff expertise. They use their familiarity expertise to develop credible, efficacious prod-
with medical skin disease terminology to look ucts. Additionally, these founders are present
for solutions to barrier dysfunction, acne, rosa- on social media, guaranteeing a conversation

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Working with AAK has helped me become independent. We as women are stronger now and work together for the
community.” Kamboule Kibekoun
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with consumers and creating a strong and loyal
tribe—providing a straight-talking, results-orientated
product sales approach.
Immersive Experiences
Nowadays, wellness is a marker of luxury and
lifestyle choices, and the digital tide is even shift-
ing this culture. Web-based platforms such as
Well+Good2—with 8 million unique monthly visitors,
1.2 million followers on social media, and 800,000
email subscribers—have come to appreciate that
young, affluent women prefer a curated approach to
their experiences. For example, younger spa con-
sumers (under 35) want an expert experience during
vacation, not just a luxury five-star resort spa. In
fact, Well + Good reported that clientele are follow-
ing their favorite fitness and well-being instructors
to one-off retreats instead of booking into famous
spas.3 In response, retreats have been developed that
limit the number of attendees to create intimate,
immersive experiences.
While the Internet has essentially replaced travel
magazines, and luxury spa photography no longer
dominates the social media conversation, digital
images of wellness are unable to supersede real-life
experiences. Indeed, online wellness interpretations
tend to lack the connections consumers make with
like-minded and passionate people. Thus, whilst
there is growing popularity in mass wellness, spa
and fitness to offset the stresses of modern society,
the expertise and experience of a clinician will
remain valued within exclusive and niche market
segments; the appreciation of a doctor as a “walking
placebo” or the rapport between patient and thera-
pist cannot be underestimated.
In conclusion, technology such as smart phones
can benefit our decision-making process and
enhance our product experiences but not replace
them. For instance, apps can offer little more than
“coaching”—e.g., they cannot recommend products
to prevent or diagnose a skin condition—otherwise
they cross a regulatory boundary warranting an
expert’s diagnosis. They may also offer reassurance,
such as in cases of acne, rosacea and eczema, but
they must developed responsibly, so as not to cause
unnecessary alarm, and based on scientific data.
References
All web sites accessed on Jan. 30, 2018.
1. raconteur.net/lifestyle/skincare-is-now-a-serious-business
2. wellandgood.com/
3. fastcompany.com/40504343/
travelers-are-abandoning-spas-to-join-fitfluencer-retreats

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evonik.com/personal-care

Research | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• As the scientific knowledge of RNAi has
expanded, a completely opposite process of
RNA activation (RNAa) has been discovered.
• In this third and final part in our series, gene

activation by non-coding RNA is explored for
its potential in skin care applications.
A New Code
Part III: RNA Activation—
The Flipside to RNA Interference
Paul Lawrence, Ph.D., and Joseph Ceccoli
Biocogent, LLC, Stony Brook, NY
Editor’s note: Per the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, cosmetics are articles intended to beautify appearance and should not alter the structure or function of the
human body; those that do are considered drugs. The concepts presented here blur this line, although they reflect major advances in recent skin care science.
22This third and final installment in our three-part series describes RNA activation—the reverse of RNA interference (RNAi). Part I explored the general utility of RNAi
| www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
technologies; technologies
Part II briefly reviewed the delivery of RNAi
all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
into skin. Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018
CT1803_Research_Lawrence_fcx.indd 22 2/15/18 1:35 PM

for Skin Care
M any biomedical and cosmetic research groups
have sought to harness the power of RNA interfer-
ence (RNAi) to treat a variety of skin diseases and
conditions. RNAi involves the utilization of small
non-coding RNA (ncRNA) molecules called short
interfering RNAs (siRNAs) and microRNAs (miRNAs
or miRs), which silence the expression of specific genes and, by extension, the
synthesis of their encoded protein molecules.
Considerable progress has been made to not only develop siRNA and miRNA
molecules for use as actives to treat skin conditions, but also to design delivery
vehicles that are capable of delivering the ncRNA effectors across the skin bar-
rier.1–5 Interestingly, as the scientific knowledge of RNAi has
expanded, a completely
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018

Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. © 2018 AlluredCosmetics & Toiletries®
Business Media. | 23

A New Code for Skin Care
Small artificial or anti-genome RNAs, and

short-interfering and microRNAs capable
of stimulating genes, coupled with suitable
delivery vehicles, could improve skin health.
opposite process of RNA activation (RNAa) the miRISC complex in the cell cytoplasm (see
also has been discovered. Here, small ncRNAs Figure 1). These small ncRNAs originate from
can promote gene expression rather than exogenous (saRNA/agRNA) or endogenous
ablating it, thus providing another approach (siRNA/miRNA) sources.
to treating skin conditions with nucleic The “passenger strand” dissociates from
acid-based therapeutics.6–8 the complex and is discarded, while the “guide
strand” stays complexed with Ago2. The guide
RNAa Mechanisms strand/Ago2-miRISC complex before entering
One of the first reports of small ncRNAs that the nucleus via Importin 8 (IPO8),15 which then
included what appeared to be the activation proceeds to interact with the genomic DNA
or augmentation of gene expression was in through one of two possible mechanisms, or
2006, where Li et al. described small double- interacts with mRNA transcripts.
stranded RNA molecules that coordinated with With respect to genomic DNA, the guide
the Argonaute 2 (Ago2) protein to induce gene strand RNA will anneal directly to comple-
activation.9, 10 Multiple studies found that small mentary sequences in the promoters of specific
artificial RNAs (saRNAs) or small anti-genome genes or anneal to a complementary nascent
RNAs (agRNAs) were able to positively affect RNA strand already bound to a promoter
the expression of multiple genes, including sequence (see Figure 2). Several studies
but not limited to: E-cadherin, p21, OCT4 and have suggested that the preferred promoter
KLF4.9, 11–13 The contrasting features of RNAi sequences revolve around the core promoter
versus RNAa were concisely outlined in a area of genes known as the TATA box, though
review article, which described the two pro- others have shown that sequences outside of
cesses as the “yin and yang of the RNAome.”8 the TATA box, but still proximal to the promoter
Interestingly, the kinetics of RNAi versus region, can also serve as target sites.16
RNAa are distinct; relatively speaking, RNAi The annealing of the RNA/Ago2 complex
is rapid and short-lived whereas RNAa takes has been proposed to epigenetically stimulate
longer to induce but has prolonged effects.14 In gene expression with the recruitment of various
vast contrast with RNAi, small double-stranded chromatin remodeling factors (see Figure 3),
RNA molecules of approximately 22 base pairs though much of the process is still unknown
in length interact with the Ago2 component of and requires further research. The epigenetic
component of the RNAa process likely accounts
for the delayed onset and prolonged gene
expression, and appears to be specific to the
target genes, as research groups have impli-
The RNA-based therapeutics market is
cated histone acetylation levels for increased
projected to reach $1.2 billion by 2020,
gene expression for some genes, and histone
expanding at a CAGR of 28.4% from 2014.
methylation for others.17, 18
A recent report has proposed that once in
the nucleus and bound to a particular promoter
Source: Allied Market Research site, RNA/Ago2 catalyzes the assembly of a
RNA-induced transcriptional activation (RITA)
complex consisting of at least RNA/Ago2, RNA

Figure 1. Cytoplasm-to-nucleus shuttling for exogenous saRNA/agRNAs and
endogenous siRNA/miRNAs to affect RNAa
A. RNA/Ago2 bind directly to the promoter region of genomic DNA and recruit RNA polymerase II and other factors to
stimulate transcription.
B. RNA/Ago2 bind to an RNA transcript tethered to genomic DNA to recruit RNA polymerase II and other transcription
stimulatory factors.
C. RNA/Ago2 bind the 5' UTR of a messenger RNA to enhance translation.
D. RNA/Ago2 bind the 3' UTR of a messenger RNA to enhance translation.
Ago2 = Argonaute 2; RNA Pol II = RNA polymerase II; UTR = untranslated region; TSS = transcription start site
Figure 2. Mechanisms by which nuclear small RNA associated RISC complexes can
promote gene expression

RNA research may lead to insights in skin diseases such as melanoma.
Helicase A, CTR9 and RNA polymerase II.19 RNAa-based Therapeutics

These findings suggest that once fully delin- Perhaps the most frequently described
eated, the mechanism of RNAa is likely to be example of a host miRNA exhibiting RNAa is
highly complex. in the case of miR-122, a natural endogenous
An example of a naturally occurring miRNA human miRNA that is predominantly expressed
that behaves like a saRNA is miR-373, which in the liver.21 In addition to interacting with
has been shown to augment the expression host genomic DNA to affect endogenous gene
of multiple genes through its interaction with expression, this host miRNA plays a critical
complementary sequences within promoter role in the pathogenesis of a significant viral
regions.20 This miRNA has been demonstrated pathogen of humans: hepatitis C virus (HCV).
to stimulate the expression of both E-cadherin HCV is a positive-sense single-stranded RNA
as well as cold-shock domain-containing (+ssRNA) virus, and the genomes of +ssRNA
protein C2 (CSDC2). Additional examples of viruses mimic the organization of host mRNA
miRNAs exhibiting RNAa-like behavior include: molecules with a coding sequence flanked by
let-7i, miR-10a, miR-92a, miR-122, miR-138, non-coding RNA sequences at the 5' and 3' end
miR-181d, and miR-369-3p.14, 16, 21, 22 Several of the molecule. Serendipitously, some +ssRNA
miRNAs beyond the aforementioned group viruses contain sequences that are identical to
have been predicted to interact with promoter certain recognition sequences for host mRNAs
sequences, including but not limited to: that are miRNA-regulated. When these recogni-
miR-34b, miR-191, miR-320a, miR-484, miR- tion sites happen to be localized in the 3' end of
548c-5p, miR-574-5p and miR-611.14 the virus genome, miRNAs can down-regulate

the expression of the viral genes encoded in the sion to block proliferation in lung and bladder
transcript, much like how miRNAs can modu- cancer.25–27 The design and production of either
late the expression of host mRNA molecules saRNAs/agRNAs or siRNAs/miRNAs capable
containing recognition sequences in the 3' end. of stimulating the expression of advantageous
The first instance described where a host genes, coupled with their complexation in a
miRNA annealed to a sequence in the 5' end of suitable delivery vehicle, would allow for the
a +ssRNA virus genome was in the instance of improvement of skin health, such as through
HCV and miR-122, and this interaction fol- increased production of E-cadherin, a protein
lowed the RNAa model, where the expression known to assist in the stabilization of epider-
of the HCV genes was augmented by miR-122 mal homeostasis, stimulated via augmented
interaction (see Figure 2). As such, several levels of miR-373.
research groups designed antagomiRs against Furthermore, the epigenetic modifications
miR-122 as possible anti-viral therapeutic that have been implicated in the mechanism of
against HCV. Indeed, the clinical results to date RNAa can synchronize with current efforts in
have been quite promising, and a drug known skin care to manipulate the epigenetic state of
as Miravirsen has been positively proceeding a skin cells through the induction and repres-
through human clinical trials.23, 24 sion of enzymes such as histone deacetylases
With respect to skin applications, an (HDACs) and histone acetyl transferases (HATs).
increase in the expression of p21 tumor sup- This would trigger changes in the post-transla-
pressor protein would be advantageous for tional modifications of certain target proteins
skin diseases such as melanoma. Independent including histones (see Figure 3). Thus, evolving
studies have already demonstrated the utility research into RNAa implicates several different
of an RNAa-based induction of p21 expres- therapeutic skin care applications.
HDAC = histone de-acetylase; PRMT = protein methyl transferase; sRNA = small RNA; Ago2 = Argonaute 2; RNA Pol II = RNA
polymerase II
Figure 3. Epigenetic modifications (protein de-acetylation, ubiquitination and

methylation) by which RNAa can promote sustained gene expression in the context of
small RNA bound promoter regions in genomic DNA

RNAs are becoming the key to unlocking new classes of nucleic acid-based treatments for the skin.
Concluding Remarks References

1. M Chen et al, Topical delivery of siRNA into skin using
With the discovery of RNAa, another avenue SPACE-peptide carriers, J Control Release 179 33-41
of nucleic acid-based therapies for skin diseases (2014)
and disorders has begun to be paved. Not only 2. E Desmet et al, An elastic liposomal formulation for RNAi-
will skin conditions be treated through the based topical treatment of skin disorders: Proof-of-concept
in the treatment of psoriasis, Int J Pharm 500 268-274
suppression of toxic proteins through RNAi, but (2016)
also by the augmented expression of beneficial 3. SY Wu, G Lopez-Berestein, CA Calin and AK Sood, RNAi
proteins via RNAa. For example, the design and therapies: Drugging the undruggable, Sci Transl Med 6
implementation of an saRNA that targets the 240ps 247 (2014)
promoter sequence of the tyrosinase gene for 4. X Yi et al, MITF-siRNA formulation is a safe and effective
therapy for human melasma, Mol Ther 19 362-371 (2011)
increased expression could be used as a tanning
5. P Zhang, J Chen, T Li and YY Zhu, Use of small RNA as
agent. Another example is collagen, a protein anti-aging cosmeceuticals, J Cosmet Sci 64 455-468
that diminishes with age and contributes to the (2013)
maintenance of taut, healthy skin; an saRNA 6. D Guo, L Barry, SS Lin, V Huang and LC Li, RNAa in action:
directed to the collagen promoter intended for From the exception to the norm, RNA Biol 11 1221-1225
(2014)
augmented gene expression would have definite
7. V Huang et al, RNAa is conserved in mammalian cells,
cosmetic applications. PLoS One 5 e8848 (2010)
Moreover, RNAa exhibits extremely potent 8. PN Pushparaj, JJ Aarthi, SD Kumar and J Manikandan,
and long-lasting effects, likely due to its induc- RNAi and RNAa—The the yin and yang of RNAome,
tion of epigenetic modifications of targeted Bioinformation 2 235-237 (2008)
genes. Once the specific epigenetic modifica- 9. LC Li et al, Small dsRNAs induce transcriptional activation
in human cells, Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 103 17337-17342
tions have been elucidated and the mechanisms (2006)
by which RNAa stimulates them, additional 10. K Garber, Genetics. Small RNAs reveal an activating side,
routes of treatment for skin conditions will Science 314 741-742 (2006)
likely be developed. In conclusion, the “yin and 11. C Wang, Q Ge, Z Chen, J Hu, F Li and Z Ye, Promoter-
yang” of small non-coding RNAs are becoming associated endogenous and exogenous small RNAs
suppress human bladder cancer cell metastasis by
the key to unlocking new classes of nucleic activating p21 (CIP1/WAF1) expression, Tumour Biol 37
acid-based treatments for the skin. 6589-6598 (2016)

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12. J Wang et al, Identification of small activating RNAs that 20. RF Place, LC Li, D Pookot, EJ Noonan and R Dahiya,
enhance endogenous OCT4 expression in human mesen- MicroRNA-373 induces expression of genes with comple-
chymal stem cells, Stem Cells Dev 24 345-353 (2015) mentary promoter sequences, Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 105
13. J Wang et al, Inducing gene expression by targeting 1608-1613 (2008)
promoter sequences using small activating RNAs, J Biol 21. CL Jopling, M Yi, AM Lancaster, SM Lemon and P Sarnow,
Methods 2 (2015) Modulation of hepatitis C virus RNA abundance by a liver-
14. V Portnoy, V Huang, RF Place and LC Li, Small RNA and specific MicroRNA, Science 309 1577-1581 (2005)
transcriptional upregulation, Wiley Interdiscip Rev RNA 2 22. UA Orom, FC Nielsen and AH Lund, MicroRNA-10a binds
748-760 (2011) the 5'UTR of ribosomal protein mRNAs and enhances their
15. Y Wei, L Li, D Wang, CY Zhang and K Zen, Importin 8 translation, Mol Cell 30 460-471 (2008)
regulates the transport of mature microRNAs into the cell 23. HL Janssen, S Kauppinen and MR Hodges, HCV infection
nucleus, J Biol Chem 289 10270-10275 (2014) and miravirsen, N Engl J Med 369 878 (2013)
16. Y Zhang et al, Cellular microRNAs up-regulate transcription 24. HL Janssen et al, Treatment of HCV infection by targeting
via interaction with promoter TATA-box motifs, RNA 20 microRNA, N Engl J Med 368 1685-1694 (2013)
1878-1889 (2014) 25. Z Chen, RF Place, ZJ Jia, D Pookot, R Dahiya and LC Li,
17. BA Janowski, ST Younger, DB Hardy, R Ram, KE Huffman Antitumor effect of dsRNA-induced p21(WAF1/CIP1) gene
and DR Corey, Activating gene expression in mammalian activation in human bladder cancer cells, Mol Cancer Ther 7
cells with promoter-targeted duplex RNAs, Nat Chem Biol 3 698-703 (2008)
166-173 (2007) 26. J Wei et al, p21WAF1/CIP1 gene transcriptional activation
18. K Yang et al, Promoter-targeted double-stranded small exerts cell growth inhibition and enhances chemosensitivity
RNAs activate PAWR gene expression in human cancer to cisplatin in lung carcinoma cell, BMC Cancer 10 632
cells, Int J Biochem Cell Biol 45 1338-1346 (2013) (2010)
19. V Portnoy et al, saRNA-guided Ago2 targets the RITA 27. K Yang et al, Up-regulation of p21WAF1/Cip1 by saRNA
complex to promoters to stimulate transcription, Cell Res 26 induces G1-phase arrest and apoptosis in T24 human blad-
320-335 (2016) der cancer cells, Cancer Lett 265 206-214 (2008)

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Testing | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Synesthesia presents a great opportunity for
innovative concepts in the cosmetics field.
• Considering its potential, a study was

undertaken to develop a product design
model based on synesthetic evaluations of
tactile, audio, scent and taste stimuli, and
supported by neuroscience techniques and
implicit and explicit evaluations.
Intersecting
the Senses Synesthesia to Connect
Cosmetics with Emotion
Mauricio Guzman Alonso and John Jiménez

Belcorp, Tocancipá, Colombia

CT1803_Research_Jimenez_fcx.indd 32 2/15/18 2:55 PM

T he term
synesthesia
is a fusion of
two Greek
words mean-
ing "together"
and "sensation," which refers
to the perception of the same
stimulus by two different
senses. In some individuals,
synesthesia is a physiologi-
cal condition through which
experiences related to
perception, such as color or
taste, are caused by stimuli
that would not normally
be associated with that
experience. Synesthesia
also can be used as an
approach to combine
different sensations, or
in some cases feelings,
and for this reason it has
widely been used in music,
painting, literature and
poetic metaphors.1
For example:
• Soft as a summer whistle;
• And when he came out of the water and approached,
I felt the warmth of his eyes, the scent of his words,
the saltiness of his caresses, the sound of her beauty,
the brightness of his embrace...
• In suspended sound colors, eyes hear, ears look…
• Francisco de Quevedo's: I listen to the dead with the
eyes; and
• Joan Manuel Serrat's: Your name tastes like grass.

Intersecting the Senses
Multisensory integration refers to the final

stimulus being perceived synergistically,
compared with effects of individual stimuli.
Synesthetic experiences demonstrate three ing memory” awakenings smell kit, designed
primary characteristics: they are provoked by for Alzheimer’s and dementia patients to help
a stimulus, they are conscious perceptions and them practice their memory.8 And also debuting
they are automatic.2 They are an important last year was the olfactory clock designed by
trend emerging in sectors such as food, bever- Patrick Palcic using perfume to tell time.9
ages and of course, cosmetics. Some published studies of synesthesia
For example, in 2016, studies were pub- have been based on Charles Spence's theory
lished showing how a given choice for music of multisensory integration (see Figure 1).10
can improve the taste of meals.3 In Europe, This states that when sensory stimuli are mixed
the Hotel Café Royal opened its Green Bar, properly, there is an effect of super-additivity,
in which the cocktails served are inspired by whereby the final stimulus is perceived syner-
and taste like some of the most representative gistically via the mammalian superior colliculus
notes of fine perfumes.4 Another bar, Bart’s, brain structure—i.e., the source of multisensory
recently opened in London featuring a “mood cells, in comparison with how stimuli are
menu,” whereby the cocktails are mixed with perceived individually.11
specific olfactory notes to improve the con- As stated, synesthesia is understood as the
sumer’s mood.5 And recently, scientists from perception of an experience achieved by stimuli
the University of Oxford found that the taste of not normally associated with that experience.2
chocolate can be altered in conjunction with Recent studies indicate it is a neurological
changes in music or sound; thus, the auditory phenomenon but its causes are not entirely
sense influences the taste and feel perception of clear.12 In fact, a particularly interesting com-
the taste buds.6 ponent of synesthesia that has been identified
In personal, home and health care, in 2016, from a neurophenomenological point of view
the first "beauty bar" of Latin America, "We is the emotional force exhibited by synesthetic
Love Nails," was launched in Bogotá, where experiences. Thus, the emotional component
clients could sample beverages and experience of synesthesia has been reconsidered from a
new concepts in nail care. Also, Apple Inc. neuroscientific perspective.13
launched a candle scented like a MAC computer Without a doubt, synesthesia presents a
upon opening the box for the first time.7 In great opportunity for innovative concepts in
2017, a fragrance company launched the “scent- the cosmetics field. Considering this potential
to intersect and amplify sensorial experiences,
a study was undertaken to develop a product
design model based on synesthetic evaluations
of tactile, audio, scent and taste stimuli, and
The rise of the "experience economy" is supported by neuroscience techniques (implicit)
currently one of the most important global and explicit evaluations. For the described
trends in marketing. Now, more than ever, studies, specific motivations were considered
consumers desire immersive entertainment. (see Table 1).
Panel and Methods

Source: Campaign.co.uk A group of 33 volunteers between the ages
of 20 and 40 was recruited. Each was a regular

user of cosmetic products.
Participant reactions were
evaluated by eye tracking
and EEG, in addition to
providing their subjective
ratings, as they experienced
combinations of four differ-
ently textured test formulas,
four musical arrangements,
six fragrances, two flavors
and different visual cues,
executed in three stages:
1. Touching-hearing
synesthetic relation
(n = 14);
2. Smelling-hearing
synesthetic relation
(n = 14); and
Figure 1. Multisensory integration
3. Tasting-touching synes-
thetic relation (n=16).
Touching-hearing stimuli, an eye tracking devicea coupled to

Relation Protocol software recorded their responses. Four test
For the touching-hearing measurements, products having different textures were devel-
as participants experienced tactile and visual oped. One product at a time was presented to
a
Tobii EyeCore
Table 1. Implicit and Explicit Motivation Types
Implicit Explicit
Aspects evaluated How to evaluate Aspects evaluated How to evaluate
Qualitative and
Color, odor, flavor, texture
EEG, functional magnetic quantitative tests;
Frustration, and sound; efficacy and
resonance imaging home-use test;
meditation/relaxation, performance, e.g., "Soap
(fMRI), eye tracking, focus group; efficacy
excitement/like, should smell clean and
facial expression, electro tests with bio-
interest good," or "Soap should
dermal activity engineering
produce enough foam."
equipment
Figure 2. Touching-hearing evaluation process

the panelists for ratings on moisturization and cone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and)
softness, during which one of four different dimethiconol dispersion;
musical arrangements was played (see sche- • Formula B: 30% petrolatum dispersion;
matic in Figure 2).
This was repeated with the same formula • Formula C: hydrogel formulation in liquid
but different music. Subjects were unaware format; and
they were experiencing the same formulas and • Formula D: an acrylic emulsion.
rating them again for hydration and softness
Sample sounds: Regarding the music com-
properties. This process was repeated for
positions, Table 2 shows characteristics of the
all four musical arrangements and product
“Four Seasons” compositions by Antonio Viv-
samples so in total, participants experienced
aldi in 1723.14 This music was chosen because
4 × 4 = 16 formulas/musical arrangement
it is programmatic and evokes different ideas
combinations.
and images for each season of the year. Each
Sample formulas: The evaluated formulas
has a varied tempo (shown below), sound and
included the following.
interpretation, ranging from acute to severe, to
• Formula A: 30% cyclopentasiloxane (and) allow for well-differentiated sounds associated
dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethi- with different mental states.
Table 2. Characteristics of Vivaldi’s Four Seasons
Season Characteristics
Winter
Allegro non molto: Snow falls; the storm is unleashed.
Largo: The rain falls and you can hear the drops hitting the tiles of the houses.
Allegro: Now we walk on the ice. The step is insecure; there are slips but the
ice is breaking. The thaw begins, the music is agitated and everything is moving
Autumn
Allegro: The peasants sing and dance; the harvest has been good.
Adagio: The calm is absolute. Everyone is sleeping.
Allegro: Now Vivaldi evokes hunting scenes: shotguns, dogs, the beast that flees
and finally dies, harassed by all.
Summer
Allegro non molto: The heat produces fatigue; breathing is slow and deep.
Adagio: Follow the stupor, and the flies are impertinent.
Presto: Vivaldi describes a storm and the rapid scales evoke the force of the
wind and the violence of the storm.
Spring
Allegro: Awaking the spring, one hears the song of the birds, the murmur of the
fountains, the storm.
Largo e pianissimo: Tranquility, whispering of the plants, barking dogs; the
shepherd sleeps
Allegro: A country dance (Sicilian) is heard and the bass strings imitate the foot
pedal note of the hurdy-gurdy.

A particularly interesting component of
synesthesia is the emotional force
exhibited by the experience.
Table 3. Calibration Results for Touching-hearing Relation

• Spring I: relates to joy, 120-128 (fast pace); In contrast, a third pair included an image of
a desert with the printed word hydration. For
• Summer III: expresses tension and force,
this discordant match, only 18% of panelists
168-200 (very fast pace);
focused on the image; the larger majority
• Autumn II: presents calmness, 66-76 (mod- focused on the word (see Table 3).
erate pace); and This served as the criteria to evaluate and
• Winter I: signifies contemplation, 40-60 interpret touching-hearing eye-tracking tests.
(slow pace). More specifically, as panelists experienced
tactile, visual and taste stimuli, if their eyes
Touching-hearing focused more on the image representing
Synesthesia Calibration the desired trait, the more concordant their
experience and therefore, the greater the
To calibrate the synesthetic experience of
synesthetic effect.
panelists, a figure/ratio test was first performed.
This comprised tracking the eye movements
Results:
of panelists as they experienced pairs of visual
stimuli and considered whether each was Touching-hearing Relation
concordant or discordant.15 The resulting shape Following the calibration step, the sample
of their recorded saccade patterns—i.e., rapid formulas were presented with music and the
movements of the eyes between fixation points, same visual stimuli as described, and panelists
provided insight on the subjective levels of evaluated the formulas in terms of perceived
perceived agreement or disagreement between hydration and softness. Figure 3 shows the
the stimuli, which helped to classify their calibration and assessment process; Table 4
synesthetic response. shows results of the synesthetic responses
For example, the first pair of visual stimuli of panelists based on eye-tracking; Table 5
included an image of a waterfall and the printed provides a comparison between these implicit
word hydration. The second pair included an responses and explicit panelist ratings.
image of cotton balls and the printed word soft- It was interesting to see music change the
ness. For these two concordant pairs, 82% of perceptions of hydration and softness. Specifi-
panelists tended to focus more on the images. cally, the silicone dispersion gave the softest
Figure 3. Calibration for touching-hearing relation

Table 4. Implicit Eye-tracking Results of Touching-hearing Relation
Silicone dispersion Petrolatum dispersion
CT1803_Research_Jimenez_fcx.indd 39
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018
% Panelist concordance
Hydrogel Acrylic emulsion
Cosmetics & Toiletries®

| 39
2/15/18 2:55 PM
Table 5. Explicit and Implicit Touching-hearing Results
Texture Explicit evaluation Implicit evaluation

Silicone dispersion None (p < 0.05) Summer (p < 0.05)
Petrolatum dispersion Autumn, Summer (p < 0.05) Autumn (p < 0.05)
Hydrogel Winter, Summer (p < 0.05) Winter (p < 0.05)
Emulsion Autumn, Summer (p < 0.05) Autumn (p < 0.05)
and most hydrating impres-

sion with the summer music,
whereas both the dispersion
of petrolatum and the emul-
sion registered the highest
softness and hydration with
the autumn music. The liquid
hydrogel was rated best for
hydration and softness with
the winter arrangement. None
of the textures demonstrated
increases in the perception of
hydration and softness with Figure 4. EEG measurement schematic
the spring music.
These initial findings open
the door to developing novel
principle that the brain emits signals of differ-
concepts, such as seasonal cosmetics linked
ent frequencies (in Hz) depending upon a given
to textures and music. It also suggests a new
stimulus, which are captured and recorded (see
method for evaluating product perception: now,
Figure 4).
under the influence of music.
Sample scents: Six fragrances were used for
the smelling-hearing relation tests: (1) citrus;
Smelling-hearing (2) spicy; (3) floral; (4) woody; (5) Perfume 1,
Relation Protocol with floral accords of jasmine and sandalwood;
To assess relationships between the experi- and (6) Perfume 2, with citrus notes of berga-
ence of smelling and hearing, brain waves were mot, orange blossom, vanilla, patchouli and
recorded instrumentally by electroencephalog- musk. As panelists experienced a given scent,
raphy (EEG)b. This approach is based on the
b
Emotiv EPOC
Continued on Page 43
Figure 5. Smelling-hearing evaluation process

Table 6. Panelist Ratings of Smelling-hearing Relation
CT1803_Research_Jimenez_fcx.indd 41
Citrus Spicy Floral
* *
* * *
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018

* *
*
*
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
Woody Perfume 1 Perfume 2

*
* *
* *
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
Panelist Ratings
Cosmetics & Toiletries®

| 41
2/15/18 2:55 PM
'Liking' for the floral note significantly increased with all four music selections.
Figure 6. EEG ‘liking’ frequency results

Continued from Page 40
they also simultaneously rated it for fragrance • Stage 3. Evaluation of fragrances while
intensity and liking/pleasure on a scale of 1 to listening to autumn.
10, from lowest to highest. • Stage 4. Evaluation of fragrances while
The process was divided into five stages, listening to summer.
whereby the panelists randomly and blindly
evaluated the same fragrances but while listen- • Stage 5. Evaluation of fragrances while
ing to different music—the same four seasons listening to winter.
arrangements noted above. This protocol,
shown in Figure 5, comprised:
Rating Results:
• Stage 1. Evaluation of fragrances without
Smelling-hearing Relation
Table 6 shows the panelist ratings for fra-
music.
grance perceptions, which indicated the citrus
• Stage 2. Evaluation of fragrances while and woody notes showed no significant change
listening to spring. in intensity or liking when paired with any
Figure 7. Example analysis of 'liking' during synesthetic evaluation of EEG; the panelist smelled the
fragrance while listening to the music.
Table 7. Explicit and Implicit Smelling-hearing Results
Olfactive note Explicit evaluation Implicit evaluation

Citrus No changes (p < 0.05) No changes (p < 0.05)
'Liking' with autumn; greater intensity
Spicy Greater intensity with summer (p < 0.05)
with summer and winter (p < 0.05)
'Liking' increased with all different
Floral Sensorial suppression with summer (p < 0.05)
music (p < 0.05)
Woody No changes (p < 0.05) Greater intensity with winter (p < 0.05)
Greater intensity with summer and
Perfume 1 Greater intensity with summer (p < 0.05)
winter (p < 0.05)
'Liking' with autumn, summer and
Perfume 2 Greater intensity with spring and winter (p < 0.05)
winter (p < 0.05)

musical arrangements. In contrast, liking for For example, Figure 7 shows how frustra-
the floral note significantly increased (p < 0.05) tion and interest curves change during the
with all four music selections; its perceived synesthetic experience. These changes are
intensity was not impacted by music. A sig- quantified to evaluate the liking of a fragrance
nificant increase (p < 0.05) in spicy note liking while the panelist is listening to music.
was observed with the autumn music selection; The olfactory notes showing the greatest
however, significant increases for both intensity variation in perception when paired with
and liking resulted from pairings with the sum- different music arrangements were: spicy,
mer and winter music. floral and Perfume 1 (floral). Those demon-
Perfume 1 demonstrated significant strating the least amount of change due to
improvements (p < 0.05) in intensity only musical influence were: citrus, woody and
when coupled with summer and winter music. Perfume 2 (citrus). Under the conditions of
Finally, for Perfume 2, the perception of this study, these results identify a trend for
liking significantly improved (p < 0.05) when greater sensitivity with floral fragrances than
paired with autumn, summer and winter citrus fragrances.
music selections. Table 7 shows a comparison between
extrinsic ratings and intrinsic EEG results for
EEG Results: the overall smelling-hearing evaluation.
Smelling-hearing Relation
The results from the EEG measurements
Tasting-touching
in this study are presented in Figure 6. For all Synesthesia Calibration
fragrances, changes in brain activity in terms of For the tasting-touching tests, as par-
liking were noted with the addition of music, in ticipants experienced stimuli, the same eye
comparison with the initial evaluation without tracking devicea coupled to software was again
music. This technique identifies and measures used to record their responses. Before testing
the strength of micro-electric fields generated began, the synesthetic experiences of the panel-
by coherent activity between thousands of ists were again calibrated similarly to described
neurons. Therefore, detection of brain electri- above using a figure/ratio test,13 to find agree-
cal signals favors the description of behavioral ment/disagreement based on the shape of
changes such as reactions to visual, audio, panelists’ saccade patterns (see Figure 8).
sensory or emotional stimuli, such as frustra- For the tasting-touching evaluation, how-
tion and interest, in mere in milliseconds. ever, some changes were
implemented. First, an
image of a lime or chocolate
paired with the words acid
(acido) or sweet (dulce) was
shown to the panelists,
to create concordant and
discordant responses. Fol-
lowing these flavor-related
pairings, panelists viewed an
image of cotton balls always
paired with the concordant
word softness (suave) as they
simultaneously tasted the
chocolate or acid gum and
experiences the different
textures on their skin.
This synesthesia calibra-
tion of the taste-touch panel
provided an interesting
Figure 8. Calibration for tasting-touching relation response pattern. Similar
to before, concordance

Figure 9. Calibration results for tasting-touching relation
Figure 10. Tasting-touching evaluation process

between the lime or chocolate image with the majority of panelist eye traffic focused on the
appropriate word acid (acido) or sweet (dulce) discordant word.
was once again reflected in the panelists’ eyes For the tactile portion, as expected, after
focusing on the images; this was true for 94% panelists viewed concordant taste-related
of the panelists (see Figure 9). Also similar to pairs, as they viewed the image of cotton balls
before, where discordance was felt between the with the concordant word softness (suave) and
flavor-related images and printed words, the simultaneously experienced the taste and tactile
Figure 11. Explicit tasting-touching ratings for hydration
Figure 12. Explicit tasting-touching ratings for softness

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A statistically significant difference in the softness rating for petrolatum was observed as panelists tasted sweet chocolate.
stimuli, their eyes were drawn to the cotton ball repeated for all four formulas. The objective was
image. However, after viewing discordant pairs, to determine how the perceived sensation of
seeing the image of cotton balls with the same softness and hydration were modified in relation
concordant word softness (suave) drew eye to the taste stimuli. Figure 10 shows the process.
traffic toward the word softness rather than the
image of the cotton ball. Rating Results:
This served as the criterion to evaluate and Tasting-touching
interpret the tasting-touching eye-tracking tests, Figures 11 and 12 provide a comparison of
described next. Specifically, as panelists experi- the ratings for hydration and softness, respec-
enced a product, if they were more focused on tively. A statistically significant difference (p <
the image of cotton balls than the word softness 0.05) was observed in the softness rating for
(suave), this indicated the formula texture pro- the petrolatum dispersion when tasting the
vided a perceived softness. If panelists focused sweet chocolate.
more attention on the word softness (suave)
than the image of cotton balls, this indicated Eye-tracking Results:
discordance and the formula did not provide a Tasting-touching
good perception of softness.
Figure 13 presents a summary of the tactile
results obtained for the evaluation of the four
Tasting-touching products as panelists experienced different
Relation Protocol flavors. Here, while tasting acidic flavor, panelist
The panelists then felt one of the four responses showed the tactile experience of the
formulas previously described while tasting emulsion was the most concordant with softness
an acidic gum or sweet chocolate and viewing (suave); therefore, it was the most synesthetic
the image of cotton balls and the word softness sample to the acid sensation. While tasting the
(suave). They evaluated the formulas once again sweet flavor, panelist responses indicated the
for both hydration and softness properties tactile experience of the petrolatum dispersion
using a perception questionnaire. was the most concordant with softness (suave).
Unaware to panelists, the same formula Therefore, it was the most synesthetic sample to
was used while the flavor was varied; this was the sweet sensation.

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ships present during

the implicit and explicit
evaluations of different
cosmetic formulas.
Varied music and fla-
vor notes provoked greater
sensitivity in the percep-
tions of sensory attributes.
Differences in the liking
of olfactory families were
found to be influenced
by different sounds, as
monitored EEG. Also,
basic sweet and acidic
flavors can change the
perceptions of hydration
and softness in some kinds
of formulations, evidenced
by implicit eye tracking
measurements and explicit
evaluations. The sensory
profile of some formula
excipients could even be
Figure 13. Implicit tasting-touching results linked to different musical
arrangements by explicit
and implicit evaluations.
Thus, by combining an
Conclusions implicit and explicit formulation design with
The three cases evaluated here allowed the objective of finding synesthetic patterns,
for the identification and determination of the present work opens doors to novel product
the influence of synesthetic touching-hearing, concepts, benefits and textures. Synesthetic
smelling-hearing and tasting-touching relation- design is a new world to discover and develop.

To the extent that new methods are designed to 6. F Reinoso, 'Smooth operator': Music modulates the per-
ceived creaminess, sweetness and bitterness of chocolate,
link explicit and implicit evaluations, cosmetic Appetite 108 (2017) pp 383–390
chemists will have a powerful tool that will 7. theverge.com/tldr/2016/10/4/13160850/new-mac-candle-
allow them to create interesting textural experi- twelve-south-apple (Accessed Feb 14, 2018)
ences enhanced in new ways by other senses. 8. perfumerflavorist.com/networking/news/company/Scent-
ing-Memory-Essential-Awakenings-Smell-Kit-Designed-
Acknowledgements: The authors wish to thank the Center for for-Alzheimers-and-Dementia-Patients-433897713.html
Innovation and Development of Belcorp and Neurocorp for their (Accessed Feb 14, 2018)
collaboration with the design of these readings. 9. dezeen.com/2017/01/22/copper-clock-patrick-palcic-
perfume-tell-time-design-homeware-imm-cologne-2017
(Accessed Feb 14, 2018)
References
10. N Holmes and C Spence, Multisensory integration: Space,
1. retoricas.com/2011/10/ejemplos-de-metafora-sinestesica. time and superadditivity, Curr Biol 15(18) (Sep 20, 2005)
html (Accessed Feb 14, 2018) 11. E Du Plessis, The branded mind, Erik du Plessis Ed, USA
2. B Stein, The new handbook of multisensory processing, (2011)
Masachussets Institute of Technology (2012) 12. H Melero, Synesthesia: A return to the body, Theoria et
3. http://yucatan.com.mx/gastronomia/alimentos-gastrono- Historia Scientiarum, vol X, Universidad Complutense de
mia/la-musica-influiria-en-el-sabor-de-la-comida (Accessed Madrid (2013)
Feb 2017) 13. R William, Synesthesia: From cross-modal to modality-free
4. luxuryretail.es/cocteles-inspirados-perfumes-givenchy/ learning and knowledge, Leonardo 48(1) pp 48–54 (2015)
(accessed Feb 2017) 14. https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_cuatro_estaciones.
5. telegraph.co.uk/food-and-drink/cocktails/i-tried-londons- (Accessed Feb 2017)
new-happiness-boosting-cocktails---but-did-they 15. J Jiménez, Application of eye-tracking methodology for
(Accessed Feb 2017) fragrance evaluation, IFSCC Magazine 2 23–26 (2015)

Formulating | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• High definition images capture minute details
on the face, thus allowing imperfections to be
more noticeable.
• Several formulating techniques and

ingredients exist to create cosmetics that
impart a “soft focus” effect.
Formulating Forum
Zooming in on
HD Cosmetics
Soft Focus Effects
Nicola Lionetti and

Luigi Rigano, Ph.D.
ISPE srl, Milan
H igh definition (HD) or high resolution is

the main aim for all modern tools able
to reproduce images: televisions, cam-
eras, video cameras and smartphones.
This means that all of these tools are
able to broadcast clear and realistic
images, full of fine details. While this is an advantage for the viewer,
it could represent unexpected problems for those appearing in these
next-generation pictures and movies.

CT1803_Formulating_Lionetti_fcx2.indd 52 2/19/18 10:15 AM

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Zooming In on HD Cosmetics
The main concern of makeup products before

the 2000s was coverage. It has now become
naturally enhancing skin appearance.
These high definition images capture 4. Flexibility: The product should create an
pictures that are at least three to four times elastic film, able to adapt to the changing shape
sharper than the old format. Indeed, they reveal of the skin. Overly matte formulations can lead
details of any imperfection in the subject’s skin to a dry or flaky skin appearance.
or the applied makeup layer. When the govern- 5. Brows: It also is important to not to
ment replaced the traditional analog signal with forget the brows, since they are “as individual as
a digital one, professional makeup artists were fingerprints.” As such, each step in the treat-
presented with a challenge. Newly enhanced ment of HD brows is “completely bespoke from
evidence of fine details led to the judgement of the personal consultation and shape design to
their professional capability to make clients look tailoring and the aftercare process.”4
good on the HD screen.
In this age where “selfie fever” is growing, The Oil Phase
beauty-loving consumers are chasing the HD Oil and fatty ingredients provide body to
look using different approaches (apps, tutorials, emulsion formulae, e.g., foundation, mascara,
etc.) and new, efficient makeup products. The etc., and structure anhydrous products such
five key rules of these makeup products are as lipstick. They restore skin lipids, wet the
explained below.1–3 pigments, develop colors and allow their easy
1. Moisturization: Skin must be well distribution over the skin. Moreover, they give
moisturized. water resistance to the applied film and long-
2. Coverage: Covering power must be high lasting effects.
while maintaining a natural look with the In pigmented formulae, the most important
capacity to improve the skin’s appearance. property required is homogeneous color spread-
3. No shine: Skin must appear radiant not
shiny with the use of the right highlighters to
avoid enhancing imperfections.
Consumer demand for wide shade ranges

in cosmetics is driving the global cosmetic
pigment market to grow to an expected
US $790 million by 2022.
Source: Global Cosmetic Industry

(www.GCImagazine.com)

ing and easy distribution capability, which are slip and easy to spread. Quantitative Structure-
also related to the lubricity performance of the Activity Relationship (QSAR) modelling based
whole product. As a matter of fact, the most on properties including the coefficient of
frequently used oils are easily spreadable. Since friction, permittivity interfacial tension, contact
a non-greasy feel is desired after application, the angle and viscosity can be successfully used to
evaporation of volatiles or absorption into skin tailor-make the desired characteristics by select-
of the emulsified oils is also frequently sought. ing emollients for the best solution.5
The choice of individual fatty ingredients can
be difficult. All polarity classes of oils and fats Polymers
are represented in the oil phases of marketed Polymers play more than one important
products, making selections difficult. Certainly, role in color cosmetics. The large difference
for obtaining a thin film, volatile silicones still of specific weights between pigments and the
remain the most commonly used ingredients. formula’s remaining ingredients can easily lead
However, the most represented category is that to progressive pigment settling. Specialized
of esters: multi-branched chains, including thickeners of the continuous phase can prevent
Guerbet alcohols, and long iso-aliphatic chains. this occurrence. Moreover, the right blend of
Modified silicone is often suitable to match rheological ingredients allows formulators to
the typical performance of heavy emollients: adjust payoff, influence the drying time of the
non-migration, transfer resistance and long- applied film and avoid the caking of powders,
wear with the comfortable sensory properties of all while firmly holding the pigments to the skin
a light emollient; i.e., low tack, high degree of surface for many hours. Evidently, this list of

properties describes something more than just network structure.8 Research on this elastic
“stabilizing the emulsion.” characteristic has led to a significant number of
Another aim of polymer producers is to patent applications.9
extend their functionality so as to solve the In contrast, the recently developed bis-
problem of pigment wetting. Frequently, there octyldodecyl dimer dilinoleate/propanediol
are incompatibilities between water-soluble copolymer is able to not only to improve the
thickening polymers and certain pigments. For long-lasting capacity of the film, but also the
example, polyacrylic acids lose their thickening wetting of both inorganic and organic pigments,
ability when combined with zinc oxide pig- leading to stable pigment suspensions with
ments. This is because the zinc cations on the very high pigment loads. An example mascara
surface of zinc oxide pigments interact with the formula (see Formula 1) containing the poly-
carboxylic acid groups (anion) of the polymers, mer at 1.00–2.00% reportedly defines the lashes
which can easily form aggregates.6, 7 and shows increased lengthening and curling
In relation, the properties of the hydro- effects; fluid foundations show higher coverage
phobically modified hydroxyethylcellulose effects using the same amount of pigments
(HHM-HEC, INCI: Sodium Stearoxy PG- (not shown).10
Hydroxy-ethylcellulose Sulfonate) are quite Silicone polymers also can offer the right
noteworthy. Interestingly, HHM-HEC forms performance. One of the most frequently cited
a hydrogel by self-association of the alkyl ingredients is a crosspolymer derived from the
chains in water, where, at a concentration combination of a dimethicone chain and a vinyl
range above 0.6%, it is able to form an elastic dimethicone. Used alone or in combination
Formula 1. Example Mascara
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00% w/w

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
(Natrlquest E30, Innospec) 0.3
TEA, 99% 1.5
Methoxymethylbutanol 3.0
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate (Veegum K, Vanderbilt) 1.5
Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR, Ashland) 0.2
Isostearic Acid 1.0
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (Dermofeel BGC, Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH) 3.0
Stearic Acid 3.0
Glyceryl Stearate SE (Tegin, Evonik Industries) 1.2
VP/Eicosene Copolymer (Antaron V-220, Ashland) 5.0
Bis-Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer
(Cosmosurf DDG20, Ultra Chemical, Inc.) 1.3
Cera Microcrystalline (Witcotack 145, Sonneborn) 4.2
Candelilla Wax 4.2
Synthetic Beeswax 4.2
Butylate Hydroxytoluene 0.05
Polysorbate-20 (Tween 20, ) 0.5
CI 77499 (Unipure Black LC 989, Sensient Cosmetic Technologies) 10.0
Preservatives qs
Sericin 20.0
Mica (Sericite DNN, Ikeda Corp.) 0.5

Natural skin radiance is universally desired.
HD makeup products should leave a light and
smooth film with a skin-like finish.
with fillers such as silica and/or beeswax or aim of the formulator has been to choose pig-
stearyl dimethicone wax, it imparts a smooth ments that are both compatible with a formula’s
skin appearance and soft focus benefits when external phase and whose levels can be reliably
incorporated into a foundation formulation (see scaled up to consistently produce the desired
Formula 2). color.11 Initially, standard coatings were made
based on alumina and stearic acid. Since then,
Pigments and Pearls different coating possibilities such as silicone,
In the 1980s, the appearance of coated pig- silicone polymers, cellulose, lecithin and amino
ments was revolutionary news. Since then, the acids have become available.

Specific to HD color, innovative pigments pigments are often used to disguise fine lines
developed from the deposition of titanium and wrinkles in products such as foundations.
dioxide at variable thicknesses and/or iron oxide According to Shiseido, a spherical pearl agent
on mica or synthetic mica provide one of the with a two-layer structure—consisting of a
best solutions. These options improve the color spherical powder of uniform particle size at
reproducibility of the finished product, enhance the core surrounded by a layer of pearl par-
the natural look with the correct covering ticles—can allow the pigment to both disguise
capacity, and provide a luminous effect for high the wrinkles and create a vivid shine.12 Interest-
face definition. ingly, much like their soft focus effects, the line
A plate-shaped pigment may be selected to between the chemistries in this latest generation
achieve maximum shine due to the light reflec- of pigments vs. pearling ingredients is blurring.
tion capability of the particle; however, such
pigments can also emphasize the brightness Soft Focus
difference of uneven surfaces, making lines and Soft focus components are crucial in anti-
wrinkles more noticeable. In contrast, spherical wrinkle/anti-imperfection products. As many
Formula 2. Sample BB Cream
Diisopropyl Sebacate (DUB DIS, SEPPIC) 7.0% w/w

Octocrylene (Eusolex OCR, EMD/Merck) 8.0
Butyl Methoxydibenzoyl Methane (Parsol 1789, DSM) 3.0
Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Univul A Plus, BASF) 2.0
Dimethicone (and) Caprylyl Dimethicone
(and) Ethoxy Glucoside (Belsil WO 5000, Wacker) 20.0
Glyceryl Tribehenate/Isostearate/Eicosandionate (Nomort SG, Ikeda Corp.) 1.0
Stearyl Dimethicone (Belsil SDM 5055 VP, Wacker) 1.0
Preservatives qs
Tocotrienols 0.05
CI 77891 (and) Talc (and) Magnesium Stearate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide
(and) Mica (and) Stearic Acid (WCP 2039 White 3, Prodotti Gianni) 3.9
CI 77891 (and) Talc (and) CI 77492 (and) Magnesium Stearate
(and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Mica (and) Stearic Acid (WCP 2039 Yellow 3, Prodotti Gianni) 1.4
CI 77891 (and) Talc (and) CI 77491 (and) Magnesium Stearate
(and) Aluminum Hydroxide (and) Mica (and) Stearic Acid (WCP 2039 DA Red 3,
Prodotti Gianni) 0.85
CI 77891 (and) Talc (and) CI 77499 (and) Magnesium Stearate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide
(and) Mica (and) Stearic Acid (WCP 2039 DA Black 3, Prodotti Gianni) 1.13
Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Magnesium Sulfate 0.7
Betaine 1.0
Sodium Hyaluronate 0.1
Glycerin 1.0
Phenoxyethanol 0.4
Titanium Dioxide (and) Glycerin (and) Alumina (UV Titan, EMD/Merck) 3.5
Dimethicone (and) Vinyldimethyl/Trimethylsiloxysilicate/Dimethicone Crosspolymer
(Belsil REG 1100, Wacker) 1.0
Silica Dimethyl Silylate (HDK H15, Wacker) 1.0
Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract (Instensyl, Silab) 1.0

formulators know, the optical phenomenon they
impart is known as a soft focus effect, which is
derived from a technique often used in photog-
raphy to modify image contrasts so they reach a
deliberate blur where the contours become less
clear and visible.
In young skin, light reflected from the surface
is largely diffused naturally. This effect contributes
to the visual perception of softness and firmness.13
With increased age and cumulative photo damage,
however, this natural soft focus effect is lost and
negatively affects the perception of skin. In addi-
tion, skin surface contrast is increased as a result of
shadows formed by the development of topographi-
cal features such as lines, furrows and wrinkles,
further increasing the perceived age.14, 15
If the main concern of makeup products before
the 2000s was coverage, it has now become a natu-
ral look; and it this expected to last for some time.
Consequently, materials with scattering properties
and the ability to disperse light and create soft-
focus effects are receiving significant attention.
In fact, today’s formulation designs are focused
on decreasing the amounts of titanium dioxide
they contain due to its high refractive index, as
well as the use of spherical particulates for high
blurring effects.
Some studies of new materials are also focused
on hybrid technologies combining transparent
powders having a low-refractive index, e.g., mica
or boron nitride, with materials having a high-
refractive index such as titanium dioxide. These
give the skin a natural look by evenly distributing
the titanium dioxide across the skin surface.16
Furthermore, highly blurring materials including
polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) and silica can
be treated with titanium dioxide, which also gives
a natural appearance by evenly distributing and
diffusing light.17
From spherical nylon to boron nitride platelets,
a full array of surface and shape characteristics
is available, including: plastic powders, sericite,
PMMA, glass spheres, silicone rubber balls,
cellulose (fibrous or globular), etc.; Formula 3
provides an example of some of these in a
sample foundation.
Finished Effects
The textures of foundations, similar to those of
a primer or BB Cream, are clearly visible under HD
conditions. Consequently, these formulas do not
contain pearling ingredients, which as stated, can
impart shiny properties and an oily appearance,

HD makeup is meant to
cover imperfections while
maintaining a natural texture.
emphasizing small wrinkles and skin irregulari- promise between coverage, comfort and finish
ties. Further, powder products should be applied while keeping the natural look of the skin.
carefully to avoid a chalky or floury appear- To counteract dark spots, redness and dark
ance. The airbrush makeup method is now circles, or to dampen undesirable undertones of
widely used, especially in the cinema industry, the skin, fillers are a perfect option, as they are
because it gives a natural, clean and clear look capable of balancing discoloration and giving
to the face. freshness to the appearance.18 These ingredients,
Natural skin radiance, whether white, brown called interference pigments, do not give a pearl
or yellow, is universally desired. As such, HD finish. They are extremely fine and, conse-
makeup should leave a light and smooth film quently, opaque. They do not contribute to the
with a skin-like finish. Not too matte or dewy, visual appearance of the finished product, but
the layer should aim to mimic the skin texture they affect the color after application.18 Accord-
and be invisible; in other words, a perfect com- ing to the laws of physics and the rules of color
Formula 3. Cast Foundation Example
Isononyl Isononanoate (DUB ININ, SEPPIC) 14.6% w/w

Isostearyl Alcohol 4.8
Cetyl Alcohol 4.9
Sorbitan Isostearate (and) PEG-2 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Ozokerite (and)
Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Arlacel 582, Croda) 2.0
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (Tinogard TT, BASF) 0.05
CI 77491 (and) CI 77499 (Unipure Brown LC 889, Sensient) 0.8
CI 77491 (Unipure Red LC 381, Sensient) 0.1
CI 77492 (Unipure Yellow LC 182, Sensient) 1.4
CI 77891 (Hombitan Anatase FF Pharma, Aston Chemicals) 10.0
Phenyl Trimethicone (SF 1550, Momentive) qs to 100.00
Polyethylene 5.3
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Dry Flo PC, AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry) 16.6
Silica (Aerosil 200, Evonik) 0.95
Nylon-12 (Orgasol 2002 Exd Nat Cos Type S, Arkema) 4.9
PPG-15 Stearyl Ether (Arlamol PS 15E, Croda) 4.8
Preservatives qs
Fragrance (parfum) 0.5
Want More On Cosmetics?

Check out page DE1 of the March digital edition
to find out more about the Changing Face of Cometics.

mixing, the yellow/blue and red/green combina- lip products deliver a beautifully natural, wet
tions cancel each other out in a white/silver shine finish. The may also be enriched with
effect. This means that in case of skin redness, vitamins and emollient oils to moisturize the
the use of green interference pigments can be lips and give a visibly plumped look; the texture
used successfully, or a yellow undertone can be should also be creamy, with adjustable coverage,
attenuated by using a blue interference tone. and comfortable to wear. Formula 4 represents
Finally, the lips should not be forgotten. HD this type of composition.

Formula 4. HD Lip Product
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Fancol Polyiso 800-CG, Elementis Specialties) 15.0% w/w

Isoamyl Laurate (and) CI 77491 (40% dispersion, A402 Tudor Rosewood, Kingfisher Colours) 8.1
Isoamyl Laurate (and) CI 77492 (40% dispersion, Unipure Yellow LC 182, Sensient) 5.0
Isoamyl Laurate (and) CI 15850 (30% dispersion, Unipure Red LC 3075, Sensient) 6.3
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate (Crodamol PTIS, Croda) qs to 100.00
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (Tinogard TT, BASF) 0.05
Polyethylene (Performalene 500, New Phase Technologies) 2.0
Limnathes Alba Seed Oil (and) Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
(Fancol VB, Elementis Specialties) 15.0
Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables (Plantasens Crystolive Wax, Clariant) 5.0
Copernica Cerifera Cera (Cerauba T1, Baerlocher) 8.0
Ozokerite (Permulgin 3283, Koster Keunen) 6.6
Sorbitan Isostearate (and) PEG-2 Hydrogenated
Castor Oil (and) Ozokerite (and) Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Arlacel 582, Croda) 3.0
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649, IOI Oleyl GmbH) 6.5
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate) 1.0
Boron Nitride (Ronaflair Boroneige SF-15, Merck) 3.0

References
(All websites accessed December 2017)
1. rewardme.in/beauty/makeup/article/
master-the-hd-makeup-technique
2. enotalone.com/health/19646.html
3. tinytouchups.com/makeup-forever-hd-foundation-review-11422/
4. beautyinhighdefinition.com/what-are-hd-brows/
5. B Moran et al, Performance of a heavy ester with the comfort
properties of a light ester, IFSCC Magazine 4 (2012)
6. M Kosmulski, Chemical Properties of Material Surfaces, Marcel
Dekker, Inc., New York, USA (2001) pp 150–151
7. T Ashida, Development of water-dispersible ultraviolet scattering
agent, Fragrance Journal 9 (2013) 36–40
8. E Akiyama, Y Yago and K Fukuda, Development of a water-based
long-lasting makeup: Dispersion of hydrophobically surface-treated
pigments in an oil-in-water emulsion, IFSCC Magazine 3 (2014)
9. worldwide.espacenet.com/?locale=en_EP (key words: polymer,
make-up, elastic, cosmetic)
10. Rigano Laboratories Srl R&D Report: CosmoSurf DDG 20 (INCI: Bis-
Octyldodecyl Dimer Dilinoleate/Propanediol Copolymer) (Mar 2017)
11. P Tsolis, Troubleshooting stability, uniformity in foundations, Cosm &
Toil (May 8, 2013)
12. shiseidogroup.com/newsimg/archive/00000000000971/971_
k1a93_en .pdf
13. PJ Matts and ND Solechnick, Predicting visual perception of human
skin surface texture using multiple-angle reflectance spectropho-
tometry (abstract), American Academy of Dermatology 58th Annual
Conference (2000)
14. PJ Matts, Review: New insights into skin appearance and measure-
ment, J Invest Derm Symposium Proceedings 13(1) (Apr 2008)
15. RR Anderson, Polarized light examination and photography of skin,
Arch Dermatol 127 1000–1005 (1991)
16. S K Choi et al, A study of the optical properties of cosmetics mea-
sured by polarized light goniophotometry, J Optical Society of Korea
16(1) (Mar 2012) pp 36–41
17. T Okuura and Y Isiguro, Development of composite powder for
3-dimensional facial appearance and evaluation of the optical
properties, Fragrance Journal 39 33–39 (2011)
18. M Becker, C Schmidt, V Hochstein and X Petsitis, Measuring and
pre-selecting functional filler pigments, Cosm & Toil 127(5) 390–396
(May 2012)
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Formulating | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Designing formulations with maximum
preservation efficacy using minimum
preservative quantities is vital for several
reasons, outlined here.
• This strategy is referred to as an “offensive

defense,” and requires leveraging the
right preservatives and levels for given
formulation designs.

CT1803_Formulating_Araki_fcx.indd 64 2/16/18 10:28 AM

An
Offensive
Defense Minimizing Preservatives,
Maximizing Protection and Resources
Hiroyuki Araki, Shouko Hamada and Yasuhiko Toshima, Ph.D.

Kao Corp., Tochigi, Japan
Yoshie Kawazoe, Shiseido Co., Ltd., Tokyo
Masahiko Otani, Lion Corp., Tokyo
Ruka Suzuki, KOSÉ Corp., Tokyo
T
Jun Usukura, Mandom Corp., Osaka, Japan
Masaki Ookawa, Ookawa Research Labo., Kanagawa, Japan
he International Coop- also been discussing the challenges of

eration on Cosmetics cosmetic preservation.
Regulation (ICCR) and As such, it is vital to design formula-
the International Asso- tions with maximum microbe protection
ciations Collaboration using minimum preservative quantities. By
(IAC) initiated a preserva- actively pursuing minimum preservative use,
tive defense project to address the continued the industry will defend today’s available
reductions in the number of preservatives preservative solutions against more stringent
and preservative systems used in cosmetics.1 restrictions and worsening reputations. This
For instance, numerous manufacturers have strategy is thus referred to as an “offensive
used methylisothiazolinone (MIT) at its upper defense.” In relation, it is important for
limit, which likely caused rapid increases in manufacturers to understand strategies to
the number of contact allergies, prompting the establish appropriate preservative systems, as
European Union to prohibit its use in leave- well as their aggressive use, and to be knowl-
on products.2–4 Experts within the Japanese edgeable about the overarching preservative
Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) have defense project.
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018 Reproduction in English or any other language of all or part of this article is strictly prohibited. Cosmetics & Toiletries
© 2018 Allured Business Media. ® | 65

An Offensive Defense
Since preservatives kill microorganisms or

prevent their growth, they can also affect
human skin. As such, many have usage limits.
The general properties of preservatives The Need for

and their uses have been reported.5, 6 However,
this paper aims to describe the basic theory Preservatives and Oversight
and essence of preservative systems, as well as Cosmetics are repeatedly used over long
methods for determining appropriate preserva- periods and therefore differ from food, which
tive levels in formulations as a primer for the is typically consumed before it decays. For
larger offensive defense strategy. this reason, preservatives are added to cosmet-
ics to prevent microbial growth and ensure
Microbial Control in product quality and consumer safety; except
Cosmetics for cosmetics that are inherently microbiocidal
or microbiostatic.
Since the middle of the 20th century,
However, since preservatives kill micro-
cosmetics have been known to be susceptible to
organisms or prevent their growth, they can
contamination by organisms such as Gram-neg-
also affect the human skin. As such, many
ative bacteria. At that time, eye-area products
countries regulate preservative types and limit
contaminated by Pseudomonas aeruginosa
their quantities to avoid safety issues caused by
caused eyesight loss,7–10 which highlighted the
their excessive use. For instance, Europe has
necessity to initiate urgent action, and various
Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 Annex V,12 the
efforts were subsequently undertaken.
United States has a positive Cosmetic Ingredi-
As one major response, the International
ent Review (CIR) list13 and Japan has a positive
Organization for Standardization/Technical
list for preservatives in Standards for Cosmetics
Committees 217 (ISO/TC217) was initiated
(see Table 1).14
in 1997, and discussions on microbial issues
began in 2001 with working group 1 (WG1) in Effective Preservation
a review titled, “Microbiological Standards and
As stated, countries regulate preservative
Limits.” Eleven total ISO documents have since
types and upper limits. However, these regula-
been published, and experts from various coun-
tions do not necessarily ensure their safe use.
tries have continued the discussion for more
The rapid increase in cases associated with MIT
than 10 years. Furthermore, since test methods,
sensitization provides an example.3
microbiological limit standards, preservative
EU cosmetic regulations had permitted MIT
efficacy standards and risk evaluations have
at 0.01% in leave-on and rinse-off products,
been completed, test methods and standards for
and 100-ppm MIT formulations were easy
microbial control have been established.11
and affordable in many countries. Increas-
ing numbers of manufacturers used it at this
upper limit, which is probably what caused the
increase in contact allergies. Subsequently, the
The global cosmetic preservatives market EU was prompted to prohibit the use of MIT in
is expected to reach US $348.3 million, leave-on products and limit its use in rinse-off
expanding at a CAGR of 6.1% from 2015 products to 0.0015%.
to 2020. As Figure 1 illustrates, no ideal, safe and
effective preservative suitable for cosmetics
or effective against all microorganisms has
Source: MarketsandMarkets yet been developed. Therefore, to control
microorganisms that deteriorate the quality of

Table 1. Important Preservatives and Their Limits
EU United States Japan

Preservative
(EC) No. 1223/2009 CIR Standards for Cosmetics
Methyl, ethyl: 0.4%

Parabens (methyl, ethyl, 0.4% (as ester)
(as acid) single; propyl,
single; 0.8% 1.0% (total)
propyl and butyl) butyl: 0.14% (as acid) sum
(total)
of individuals; 0.8% (total)
Phenoxyethanol 1.0% 1.0% 1.0%
Benzoic acid rinse off (except oral 0.2%

cavity) 2.5%; oral cavity Not listed
Sodium benzoate 1.7%; others 0.5% 1.0%
Dehydroacetic acid 0.7%

0.6% (as acid) except
0.5% (total)
aerosol products
Sodium dehydroacetate 0.6%
Salicylic acid 0.5% (as acid) except 0.2%

shampoo; prohibited in
2.0% with use
products intended for
conditions
Sodium salicylate consumers under 3 years 1.0% (total)
of age
0.3% except mucus

Chlorphenesin 0.3% 0.32%
membrane
cosmetics, it is important to under-

stand preservative characteristics
in given formulations, and to give
an indication of appropriate types
and formulation volumes, rather
than establishing upper limits for
one preservative.
In addition, recently, preserva-
tive alternatives such as caprylyl
glycol, ethylhexylglycerin and
hexylene glycol have demonstrated
efficacy at low concentrations and
are being used more frequently.
Preservative boosters such as
alcohol and dihydric glycol are also
used with preservatives. As such,
safer preservative systems can be
developed since combining these
materials reduces the amount of
Figure 1. Relationship between preservative
actual preservatives required. efficacy and human safety

Products used in-bath are easily contaminated by water, which may reduce preservative efficacy.
Preservation in Practice Preservatives

Not all cosmetic products require preserva- Parabens
tives with similar efficacies, and the choice will
depend on factors such as product category,
use, container, volume and sales region. In addi-
tion, the effect of preservatives or antimicrobial
compounds can vary in different formulations;
e.g., some raw materials such as ester oils can
reduce their effectiveness. As described, the
safety of preservative systems should also be
critically considered.
In addition, note that since preservative
systems differ among companies, it is dif-
ficult to draw general conclusions. However,
Attributes include:
knowledge of the basic properties of preserva-
tives and antimicrobial compounds, and their • Effective at pH 3-8; hydrolyzed at ≥ pH 8;
usage requirements, must be shared among • Longer chain parabens are more effective:
cosmetic chemists. Reference information methyl < ethyl < propyl < butyl. However,
on frequently used cosmetic preservatives is they have lower water solubility;
thus provided here.
• It is necessary to consider their
precipitation;
• Short-chain parabens may be more
C&T Online effective in combination than when
used individually; and
Find related content at
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com • There are restrictions on branched, aro-
matic and long-chain parabens due to
potential endocrine disruption concerns.

Phenoxyethanol Dehydroacetic Acid and its Sodium Salt
Attributes include:
• Useful in various products due to
its water solubility; Attributes include:
• Effective at wide pH ranges; • Effective under acidic conditions and at neutral pH;
• Less effective than parabens, • Often used for mascara and eyeliners due to low adsorp-
especially for mold; tion to film-forming materials and brushes;
• Volatile material, exercise • Effects are reduced by complex formation with cat-
caution; and ionic components; and
• Carries some odor. • May cause discoloration due to reaction with metal salts.
Acid-based Preservatives
Attributes include:
• Effective under acidic conditions
but weakened at neutral pH ranges
since the undissociated form is
active (see Figure 2); and
• Effective pH range differs accord-
ing to product type.
Benzoic Acid and its

Sodium Salt
Attributes include:
• Effective under acidic condi-
tions and loses effectiveness at
neutral pH;
• Effects are reduced by Figure 2. Ratio of undissociated acid-type
complex formation with
cationic components;
preservatives; example calculation of main acid
preservatives
• Often used for relatively
acidic shampoos.

For an offensive defense strategy,

the cooperation of formulators and
microbiologists is essential.
Salicylic Acid and its • Must be combined with other preservatives

since some microorganisms can adapt to it
Sodium Salt
and develop resistance.
Chlorphenesin
Attributes include:
Attributes include:
• Effective under acid conditions and less
effective than benzoic acid at neutral pH; • Used for water-based products, powders and
solid products—e.g., makeup powders and
• Effects are reduced by complex formation
eye shadows—due to broad-spectrum anti-
with cationic components;
bacterial activity, similar to paraben; and
• Used as a stratum corneum softener and
• Adsorption to nylon and other fabrics is less
for acne control; and
than paraben.
• Legally permitted upper limits of acids and
salts differ in some countries. MIT/Methylchloroisothiazolinone
Quaternary Ammonium Salts Mixture
Attributes include:
Attributes include:
• Effective at wide pH ranges;
• Highly effective at low concentrations (on
• Strong effects at low concentrations; benzal- the order of just a few ppm);
konium chloride is effective at < 100 ppm;
• Mainly utilized for in-bath formulations
• Effects are reduced when combined with having the potential for water immersion
anions due to cationic properties; and during use;

• Unstable in alkaline pH and degrades at • Volatile in nature; exercise caution with
high temperatures; and temperature and packaging.
• Avoid its isolated use in formulations as
microorganisms easily adapt to and resist it. Benzyl Alcohol
Alcohol Compounds
Ethanol, Isopropyl Alcohol
Attributes include:
• High versatility with aqueous products due
Attributes include: to its relatively high water solubility;
• Considered low risk (ISO 29621)16 at ≥ 20%; • Effective against various microorganisms at
a wide pH range;
• Surfactants increase its effects;
• Peculiar smell can be unpleasant; and
• Bacterial resistance does not readily
develop; and • Categorized as a preservative in the EU.

Diol Compounds
1,2-Pentanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol
(1,2-Octanediol)
Attributes include:
• Act as moisturizers with antimicrobial effects;
• Often used for paraben-free and preservative-free product claims since legally, they
are not preservatives;
• Longer chain diols have stronger effects than shorter chains; e.g., caprylyl glycol is effec-
tive at < 1% and 1,2-pentanediol is generally used at 1–5%; and
• Esther oils reduce the effects of caprylyl glycol due to its low aqueous solubility.
1,3-Butylene Glycol, 1,3-Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol
Attributes include:
• Combinations of preservatives with high percentages of these glycols have synergistic
effects and can reduce the amount of preservatives required (see Figure 3);15 and
• Can prevent the development of resistant bacteria.

Preservative
systems depend
on the formulation
design, therefore the
efficacies of individual
formulations differ.
Figure 3. Synergic effect of preservatives and preservative boosters;

◆ = 1,3-butylene glycol (1,3-BG base formulation); ƒ = phenoxyethanol (PE base formulation);
• = 1,3-BG and PE (combination formulation)

Effects of preservatives or antimicrobials can

vary in different formulas, and raw materials
such as ester oils can reduce their efficacy.
Added Defenses Factors Affecting

Ethylhexylglycerin Preservative Efficacy
While some products have properties
that enable their use without the addition of
antimicrobial compounds, as described in
ISO 29621,16 many do not. Therefore, to ensure
the success of the offensive defense strategy,
it is important to consider several additional
factors and interactions that can impact preser-
Attributes include: vation in given formulations.
pH: The approximately optimal pH levels for
• Invented as an antimicrobial agent that
microbe growth are as follows: for bacteria, pH
prevents osmidrosis; and
6–8; for mold, pH 4–6; and for yeast, pH 5–7.
• Effective at < 1% depending on the formula- Preservative requirements will be lower in pH
tion; e.g., ester oils reduce its effectiveness. ranges other than these, which are not optimal
for microbe growth. To ensure low risk for pH
Chelating Agents effects, ISO 29621 would be helpful (see 5-4).16
Water activity (Aw): Water activity refers to
the amount of water used by microorganisms,
not the water content. If the Aw is low, < 0.75,
the risk of microbial growth is low (see ISO
29621).16 However, a low Aw does not actively
kill microorganisms. Therefore, preventing
microbial contamination during manufactur-
ing and optimizing preservative formulation
designs are important. Note that it is also
necessary to prevent increased Aw for water-
For example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic
absorbent products.
acid (EDTA); attributes include:
Extracts: Some extracts have added anti-
• When used individually, effective against microbial effects. However, other extract
Gram-negative bacteria, as they chelate components (e.g., amino acids, disaccha-
metal ions from microbe membranes; rides and minerals) may increase microbial
• May inhibit microbial resistance, adaptation tolerance. In the latter case, it is necessary
or both to preservatives when combined to establish stronger preservation efficacy
with preservatives and/or other antimicro- by combining preservatives, preservative
bial compounds; and alternatives, preservative boosters or any
combination of these.
• Effective concentration range depends on
Fragrances: Consider that many fragrances
the formulation.
also have antimicrobial effects.

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Package, Applicator and

Use Considerations
Also crucial to the offensive defense strategy
is choosing packaging that can prevent and
reduce contamination. Dispensers, pumps
and one-way discharge tubes can prevent
contamination during use. In addition, single
use packaging is effective for preventing con-
tamination. When using such applicators
and packaging, it is possible to reduce the
need for preservatives.
In contrast, preservative efficacy is reduced
by paraben adsorption on nylon brushes and
nitrile rubber. Preservative deactivation or
decomposition also may occur due to UV
exposure, depending on the transparency
of the container material. Thus, the packag-
ing and applicator should be composed of
material that does not bind, deactivate or
decompose preservatives.
Refillable products also pose a higher risk of
Powdered materials: Some powders, such as microbial contamination than those intended
zinc oxide and flowers of zinc, also have anti- for one-time use. If products are to be refilled,
microbial effects. In contrast, some powdered it is important to provide consumers with clear
materials, such as nylon, tend to adsorb preser- instructions; for example, washed containers
vatives and inhibit their effectiveness. When the should be dried well.
latter materials are used, preservatives that are Finally, the mode of use is an important
not adsorbed should be used, or preservative variable. For instance, products used in-bath
system levels should be increased to compensate are easily contaminated by water, which may
for the expected adsorption. reduce preservative efficacy. This risk must
Oil/water distribution: Also be sure to con- be considered.
sider oil/water distribution, to ensure effective Furthermore, the use environment can
preservative use. For example, long-chain para- impact preservative efficacy. Caution must be
bens are difficult to dissolve in a water phase and exercised, for example, with sheet and tube
lose their efficacy when considerable amounts of products due to the volatility of preservative
ester oils, UV absorbers or both are used. components such as alcohol and phenoxyethanol

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in hot and humid environmental conditions. the diversity of the preservative palette.
Once again, close attention should be paid to This activity by researchers may appear
potential microbial growth caused by moisture defensive in nature, but it will work offensively
uptake by low-Aw products. and proactively toward a more successful
future. How? This offensive defense strategy
Summary will help to maintain the preservative and
Preservative systems depend on the preservative booster palette.
formulation design; therefore, the efficacies
of individual formulations differ. The various References
points described here must be considered, or 1. https://ec.europa.eu/docsroom/documents/17203/attach-
the formulation efficacy will not meet expecta- ments/1/translations/en/renditions/native (Accessed Feb 2,
tions. Failure to apply this knowledge will 2018)
cause the excessive use of preservatives, lead- 2. R Urwin, K Warburton, M Carder, S Turner, R Agius and SM
Wilkinson, Methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazo-
ing to the utilization of maximum quantities; linone contact allergy: An occupational perspective, Contact
which as described, is an undesired scenario. Dermatitis 72(6) 381-386 (2015) doi: 10.1111/cod.12379
It is critical for researchers to acquire this 3. MD Lundov, C Zachariae and JD Johansen, Methy-
fundamental knowledge and these technical lisothiazolinone contact allergy and dose-response
relationships, Contact Dermatitis 64(6) 330-336 (2011) doi:
skills. Applying this knowledge will enhance 10.1111/j.1600-0536.2011.01901.x
the efficacy of the accumulated data and the 4. http://eur-lex.europa.eu/legal-content/EN/TXT/?uri=uriserv:
proficiency of each manufacturer, and thereby OJ.L_.2016.198.01.0010.01.ENG&toc=OJ:L:2016:198:TOC
ensure safe and effective formulas. Therefore, (Accessed Aug 1, 2017)
the cooperation of formulators and microbi- 5. ES Abrutyn, Optimizing formula preservation, Cosm & Toil
125(3) 22-28 (2010)
ologists is essential. This will elevate the level
6. SP Denyer and RM Baird, Antimicrobial preservatives and
of preservative system design and maintain their properties, Guide to Microbiological Control in Pharma-
ceuticals and Medical Devices, second edition, CRC Press,
Boca Raton, FL USA 324-344 (2006)
7. C Ishizeki and H Kurata, Problem on the microbiological
control for cosmetics, Frag J 41 12-18 (1980)
8. WH Spencer, Pseudomonas aeruginosa infections of the
eye, Calif Med 79(6) 438-443 (1953)
9. FR Reid and TO Wood, Pseudomonas corneal ulcer.
The causative role of contaminated eye cosmetics,
Arch Ophthalmol 97(9) 1640-1641 (1979) doi:10.1001/
archopht.1979.01020020208002
10. LA Wilson, JW Kuehne, SW Hall and DG Ahearn, Microbial
contamination in ocular cosmetics, Am J Ophthalmol 71(6)
1298-1302 (1971)
11. https://www.iso.org/standards.html (Accessed Jul 1, 2017)
12. https://data.europa.eu/euodp/en/data/dataset/
cosmetic-ingredient-database-list-of-preservatives-allowed-
in-cosmetic-products (Accessed Nov 1, 2016)
13. http://www.cir-safety.org/ingredients (Accessed Nov 1,
2016)
14. http://www.mhlw.go.jp/file/06-Seisakujouhou-
11120000-Iyakushokuhinkyoku/0000032704.pdf (Accessed
Nov 1, 2016)
15. M Ookawa, et al., in progress
16. ISO 29621:2010, Cosmetics—Microbiology—Guidelines for
the risk assessment and identification of microbiologically
low-risk products, available at iso.org/standard/45592.html
(Accessed Jan 29, 2018)
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Advertiser Index | C&T ®
March 2018 | Volume 133, number 3
AAK Personal Care Dr Straetmans Chem. Prod. Mibelle AG Biochemistry

17 72 C4
lipid@aak.com GmbH info@mibellebiochemistry.com
www.aakpersonalcare.com info@dr-straetmans.de www.mibellebiochemistry.com
www.dr-straetmans.de
AMA Laboratories, Inc. MilliporeSigma
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Ashland Specialty Ingredients MMP, Inc.
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19
personal-care@evonik.com www.mmpinc.com
Bio-Botanica, Inc. www.elements-of-care.com
C2
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Grant Industries cc@curtinproductions.com
1
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7
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www.bloomagefreda.com Reed Exhibitions/
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Corum, Inc. www.ichimaru.co.jp
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Market Intelligence | C&T ®
KEY POINTS
• Cosmetic marketing and education has turned
to digital platforms, as opposed to traditional
beauty counters.
• Global ingredient and marketing trends are opening
the door for the new wave of cosmetic leaders.
Changing Face
of Cosmetics
Global Trends Push Personal Care Back to Basics
Karen Yarussi-King
Global Regulatory Associates, Inc.,
Raleigh, N.C. USA
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018

O ver the last few years, the cosmetic
industry has undergone a massive
makeover—a global transformation with
each region of the world contributing
in different ways. The biggest driver has
been from outside the industry, namely
the Internet and smart phones. The Internet in particular has made the
world smaller and more accessible, but it also has been the source of

all or part of this article is strictly prohibited.
Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DE1
CT1803_Mrkt_DE_Yarussi_fcx.indd 9 2/21/18 2:22 PM

Changing Face of Cosmetics
In today’s cosmetic market, technology is

driving us to go back to the basics and
find solutions in nature.
both positive and negative changes, depending cosmetics. To drive consumers to their stores,
on where you work within the industry. The Sephora used technology to personalize the
continued harmonization of the global cosmetic purchasing experience while Ulta offered hair
industry facilitated by technology will be the salons to modernize the old department store
real stimulus for future innovation. sales model because consumers still wanted
to see, smell and feel the products. However,
The Way We Buy Cosmetics once consumers found products they liked, they
For years, consumers went to the depart- could purchase more of those products on the
ment stores to have a beauty advisor analyze Internet or with mobile apps. At the same time,
their skin or to receive a makeover. It was a TV retailers such as QVC and HSN offered an
personalized face-to-face service that drove automated replenishment option, providing
women to stroll through the dozens of beauty convenience while ensuring sales for brands.
counters until enticed to sit down, be pampered Around 2010, subscription services such
and buy product. Competition in department as Birchbox and Ipsy changed the purchasing
stores was fierce, as there was not much differ- landscape again, and probably forever. Sub-
ence between the color cosmetic, fragrance and scription services targeted those consumers
skin care product offerings, so customer loyalty that wanted to try products without having to
was key. In response, beauty brands used go to the mall. This opened the door to direct-
gifts with purchase, beauty advisor-customer to-consumer marketing of products, a less
relationships and seasonal palettes to market expensive route of entry for new brands. This
their products. became another launchpad for indie brands to
In the late 1990s, specialty retailers, led enter the market and the almost-certain demise
by Sephora, appeared in malls with a new of brick and mortar shopping.
one-stop, self-serve, try-before-you-buy model Ironically, the much-desired, personalized
dedicated to selling only cosmetics, fragrances shopping experience appears to have been
and skin care but with the addition of toiletries, replaced by the impersonal nature of the
hair care and later, beauty tools. Initially, only Internet and smartphone apps as the future of
Generation X and Millennials, with limited how we are buying cosmetics. Now, consumers
time and money, embraced this new model can buy products from all over the world with
while many baby boomers continued to shop just one click, and without any human contact.
at department stores. Specialty retailers had In place of traditional marketing, consumer
an allure: the ability to play with and compare e-commerce behavior is being monitored. The
hundreds of products in a no-pressure atmo- information collected is allowing many brands
sphere, since the beauty advisors were not paid to look for ways to both customize product
by any one brand. As a result, smaller, “hipper” offerings and personalize the online shopping
brands launched and found success in specialty experience. This area will continue to grow in
retailers without the costs associated with the future with increased global competition,
paying for beauty advisors or counters, as in the creating a new cosmetic landscape with a level
department store model. playing field where traditional brands will need
The rise of additional specialty retailers to either acquire indie brands or find alternative
such as Ulta and e-commerce drove specialty ways to remain relevant. The infusion of smart
retailers to find more creative ways to market digital technology will be key.
DE2 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018

Predicted Winners: Indie/Direct-to-Con- demand in Europe, but was held in check by
sumer Brands the power of the major brands in the United
Predicted Losers: Brick and Mortar Brands States via beauty advisors—thus, the primary
education tool for this group was the Internet.
What We Want In Cosmetics Natural beauty consumers were able to find
Before the Internet, consumers learned information online from third party organiza-
about the benefits of ingredients and product tions, European consumers and natural/organic
performance from beauty advisors—who were brands. Several of the world’s natural/organic
educated by the brands themselves. Beauty certification organizations are based in the EU
advisors were seen by consumers as the experts, and they have essentially defined this space for
and became a key marketing tool for brands the industry.
to dictate trends to the consumers and define Via the Internet, natural/organic brands
what they saw as consumer needs. As a result, and certification bodies are gaining respect
consumers’ beliefs were synonymous, the and influence while continuing to educate the
messaging was simple and not many questioned consumer on raw materials, as well as environ-
the beauty advisor’s guidance in the absence of mental and ethical issues. As evidence, free-from
online education and resources. claims, novel/exotic alternatives to traditional
Around the same time the Internet and cosmetic ingredients and new natural ingredi-
specialty retailers became popular, concern for ent claims are now the crux of most marketing
the environment and personal health coincided stories. In response, even brands previously
with changing social and economic priorities, opposed to this movement are adding cruelty-
which shifted consumer purchasing attitudes. free to their packaging or highlighting the
There was a growing beauty counterculture: natural component in their formula.
a desire for products made from natural or This marketing trend is so popular that
organic ingredients, sustainable packaging and the EU is now regulating these claims, and we
cruelty-free products from companies who will likely see this from other governments.
believed in environmental stewardship. We may also see governments weigh in on the
This counterculture was driven by consumer natural versus synthetic debate as it relates to
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DE3

product safety. As an extreme example, arsenic, to stay, Kline & Company has reported that the
while natural, is clearly not safe; therefore, the global natural personal care market was worth
safety profiles of many natural ingredients are $30 billion in 2013 and has grown at a double-
being studied. Conversely, phenoxyethanol is digit pace since 2008. By 2018, the natural
synthetic and, after many studies, is considered personal care market is expected to grow to $46
to be safe. Even natural essential oils cannot billion globally. The demand for halal-certified
escape scrutiny, as seen in the regulation of products is likely to follow suit.
fragrance allergens. Predicted Winners: Natural Brands
Anti-pollution products will no doubt be the Predicted Losers: Brands that do not
next big thing as people struggle globally with embrace global trends
the impact of various types of environmental
pollution on their health. Intuitive beauty Types of Products We Want
brands will focus on targeted product offerings Back in the department store days, if you
that counteract the impact of specific, regional were under 30 years old, beauty advisors
pollutants in response to customization and recommended a three-step skin care routine
natural trends. Traditional ingredients from consisting of cleanser, toner and moisturizer to
places such as China, Africa and India are slow down the signs of aging, followed by basic
showing up in products as consumers embrace makeup. If you were over 30 years old, the skin
natural, old world remedies for eczema, rosa- care routine was more focused on moistur-
cea, acne and other skin conditions exasperated izing to minimize the appearance of aging, and
by pollution. Scientific studies on natural ingre- included a multi-step makeup routine to hide
dients are providing breakthroughs in product facial imperfections.
performance for natural-based products. The Internet brought us new global beauty
If there was any doubt that this trend is here trends that made us think differently about skin

care and redefined our perception of beauty essences, night masks and highly concentrated
as seen through the eyes of people around the treatments containing exotic Asian ingredients
world. Asia, led by Japan and Korea, has been such as snail slime, bee venom, green tea, pearl
particularly influential in the last 10 years. and starfish extracts are being sold in many
Whitening/brightening skin care, BB and CC western markets.
creams, sheet masks, multi-step skin care, tradi- In support of the global healthier living
tional Asian-based ingredients and essences are trend, science-based natural ingredients will
now global product categories. likely continue to drive skin care innovations.
Whitening products and spot treatments—in Ayurvedic-based ingredients are starting to
combination with an increased awareness of make an appearance on the international scene.
the link between tanning and skin cancer— India and the Middle East are expected to make
spawned self-tanners in all product forms. BB their mark on global skin care trends over the
and CC creams gave birth to both the natural next year, largely supporting the demand for
beauty and multifunctional product trends. halal products. Indie brands are re-focusing on
They replaced foundations, sunscreens and prevention for all ages, as today’s older genera-
moisturizes by rolling them into a single, tions are younger-minded and increasingly
easy-to-use product that provided more natural aware of the impact of pollution on skin.
looking skin in addition to sun protection. Biotechnology-infused skin care will likely
Sheet masks hit western countries at about focus on correction but will be a hard sell due
the same time as the economic downturn and to regulatory restrictions on claims. Therefore,
reignited the home spa market. Sheet masks finding ways to market products with innova-
gained popularity based on the belief that tive new ingredients in an already crowded
they help to drive actives deeper into the skin. space may need to depend on an older market
Korean women introduced the world to their embracing technology or becoming beauty
multiple step skin care regimen. This also pro- influencers, sampling and online education.
vided industry with new and innovative delivery Lastly, natural alternatives to over-the-counter
forms: micellar cleansers, oil cleansers, serums, (OTC) drug actives are on the rise, and again
Vol. 133, No. 3 | March 2018 Cosmetics & Toiletries® | DE5

the trick is government recognition of these ethnicities to brands that allow for color prod-
actives to make relevant claims. ucts to be personalized to match a wider variety
Color cosmetics have perhaps been impacted of skin tones. Another area for growth will be
the most by social media and the no-makeup, efficacious all- or mostly-natural color cosmetics.
natural beauty craze. Twitter, Facebook, Snapchat South America has brought an awareness to
and Instagram have given rise to highlighters, a gap in hair care offerings that is being filled
illuminators, makeup primers and contouring by indie brands in other parts of the world.
products. Amateur makeup artists and beauty Hair care innovations will also be the result of
influencers are abundant on YouTube, teaching science-based ingredients with innovative styling
us new ways to use these products to take the tools and new product categories. The United
perfect selfie—essentially 21st century beauty States is most certainly a leader in this space.
advisors. They are also redefining classic looks Predicted Winners: Indie brands
with a more modern twist. The cosmetic indus- Predicted Losers: Brands that do not
try has always had celebrity endorsements, but embrace global trends
this trend has turned YouTube video stars around
the world into mainstream celebrities hired by Where to Go From Here?
brands to help design and promote their prod- One thing is certain: the electronically savvy
ucts. One of the most important recent beauty beauty brand owners will be the driving force
innovations in color was the advent of gel nail behind the future of our industry. Industry
polish, a response to consumer needs. growth will be driven by innovations resulting
Multicultural beauty is predicted to be the from the marriage of science-based natural
source of future growth in this category. Cus- ingredients with novel concepts produced by
tomization will help to drive consumers of all nimble indie brands responding to consumer-
defined needs. We will again see the competition
of old but on the Internet instead of in the
department stores, and with multiple points
Empowering
of difference.
Unlike the past, it will not be the brands
that are the first to use hyaluronic acid or alpha
hydroxy acids, it will be the company that
Beauty Innovation provides the whole package—flexible purchasing

methods, social media education and promotion,
natural and effective products, personalized and
customized shopping experiences and ethical
business practices. Only those brands that listen
to consumers and embrace these 21st century
business practices will succeed.
The number of indie brands being incubated
by venture capital firms and groomed to be sold
to Fortune 500 companies is further evidence
that this is where industry is headed. For the first
time, traditional department store brands are
at a disadvantage. They can no longer dictate to
the consumer and even if they buy indie brands,
they too must transform and embrace the 21st
century business model.
The dichotomy of today’s cosmetic market is
Discover crucial R&D insights with peer
that technology is driving us to go back to basics
reviewed scientific knowledge, trends,
and find solutions in nature.
and news from the trusted voice of the
beauty and cosmetic industry.


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