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Natural Dyeing of
Indigenous Fibers Abaca
(Musa Textiles )
MANDATE
●
Conduct applied research and development for the
textile industry sector;
●
Undertake the transfer of completed researches to
end-users or via linkage units of other government
agencies;
●
Undertake technical services and provide training
programs.
TRAINING ACTIVITIES
1 s t P a r t – S c o u r in g / B le a c h in g
2 n d P a r t – S y n t h e t ic D y e in g
3 r d P a r t – N a t u r a l D y e in g
HOW TO DO SCOURING/BLEACHING
1 . W e ig h f ib e r s
2 . C o m p u t e f o r t h e v o lu m e o f w a t e r u s in g liq u o r r a t io ( L R )
1 :5 0
3 . C o m p u te a n d w e ig h c h e m ic a ls n e e d e d :
H y d r o g e n p e r o x id e , 5 0 % - 9 g / L
S o d iu m s ilic a t e - 2 g / L
S o d a a s h -2 g /L
D e te r g e n t- 0 .5 g /L
4 . B o il t h e c o m p u t e d v o lu m e o f w a te r
5 . A d d s o d a a s h , s o d iu m s ilic a t e , d e te rg e n t and
f ib e r / m a t e r ia l.
6 . A d d t h e f ib e r s a n d h y d r o g e n p e r o x id e w h e n t h e s o lu tio n
b o ils .
7 . B o il f o r 3 0 - 4 5 m in u t e s .
8 . D r a in , w a s h a n d p r e p a r e n e u t r a liz a t io n .
NEUTRALIZATION
1 . M e a s u r e t h e s a m e a m o u n t o f w a t e r u s in g liq u o r
r a t io ( L R ) 1 : 5 0 , 1 : 2 0 o r 1 : 3 0 .
2 . A d d 2 m l/ L g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id a n d m ix t h o r o u g h ly ,
th e n a d d s c o u r e d / b le a c h e d m a t e r ia l.
3 . S o a k f o r 2 0 m in u t e s a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e .
4 . D r a in t h e s o lu t io n , w a s h a n d d r y t h e m a t e r ia l.
Sample Calculation for (Scouring/Bleaching)
W e ig h t o f m a t e r ia l = 5 k ilo g r a m s
L iq u o r r a t io ( L R ) = 1 : 2 0 ( lit e r s - k ilo g r a m s )
V o lu m e o f w a t e r = w t o f m a t e r ia ls x L R
= 5 k g x 2 0 L /k g
= 1 0 0 lite r s
W e ig h t o f h y d r o g e n p e r o x id e = 9 g / L it e r x 1 0 0 L it e r s
= 9 0 0 g ram s
W e ig h t o f s o d a a s h = 2 g r a m s / L it e r x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 2 0 0 g ra m s
W e ig h t o f s o d iu m s ilic a t e = 2 g r a m s / L it e r x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 2 0 0 g ra m s
W e ig h t o f n o n - io n ic = 0 . 5 g r a m s / L it e r x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 5 0 g ram s
V o lu m e o f a c e t ic a c id = 2 m l/ L x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 200 m l
FLOW PROCESS
S o d iu m S ilic a t e , S o d a
A s h , N o n - io n ic D e t e r g e n t
I n d ig e n o u s F ib e r s
A t b o il f o r 3 0 - 4 5
m in , H y d r o g e n
P e r o x id e , 5 0 %
W a te r L R 1 :5 0 R in s e 3 x
NEUTRALIZATION
2 m L / L g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id
b le a c h e d f ib e r s
R in s e , d r y
2 0 m in a t r o o m t e m p e r a t u r e
Purpose of Dyeing
• T o im p a r t a t t r a c t iv e h u e o n t h e m a t e r ia l
• T o e n h a n c e t h e a e s t h e t ic q u a lit y o f m a t e r ia l
• T o in c r e a s e t h e v a lu e o r c o s t
• T o c o p e u p w it h t h e g r o w in g d e m a n d o f f a s h io n
• T o s u r v iv e in t h e g r o w in g c o m p e t it io n in t h e
g lo b a l m a r k e t .
What is Dyeing?
- D y e i n g is t h e p r o c e s s o f im p a r t in g c o lo r o n t h e f ib e r s .
S c o u r e d / B le a c h e d
I n d ig e n o u s F ib e r
D y e in g (w ith b lu e d y e )
D yed
F ib e r s
How to do Basic Dyeing?
W e ig h f ib e r s / m a t e r ia l
C o m p u t e v o lu m e o f w a t e r u s in g t h e liq u o r r a t io o f
1 :2 0 , 1 :3 0 o r 1 :5 0 .
C o m p u t e a n d m e a s u r e t h e a m o u n t o f o t h e r c h e m ic a ls n e e d e d
R e c ip e :
B a s ic d y e - x % ( w e ig h t o f f ib e r / m a t e r ia l) p a s t e d
w it h e q u a l a m o u n t o f 4 0 % a c e t ic a c id
G l a u b e r ’s s a l t ( S o d i u m S u l f a t e ) - 1 0 g / L
G la c ia l A c e t ic A c id – 2 m l/ L
M easure am ount of w ater needed.
A d d g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id . S o a k m a t e r ia l in t h e s o lu t io n f o r 1 0
m in u t e s
A d d p r e - d is s o lv e d d y e . S t ir .
B r in g t h e s o lu t io n t o b o il.
A d d p r e - d i s s o l v e d g l a u b e r ’ s o r c o m m o n s a lt . M a i n t a i n t h e
b o ilin g t e m p e r a t u r e f o r 3 0 - 4 5 m in u t e s .
D r a in , w a s h , r in s e u n t il w a t e r is c le a r . A ir d r y
W e ig h t o f m a t e r ia l = 5 k ilo g r a m s
L iq u o r r a t io ( L R ) = 1 : 2 0 ( k ilo g r a m s - lit e r )
V o lu m e o f w a t e r = w t o f m a t e r ia ls x L R
= 5 k g x 2 0 k g /L
= 1 0 0 lite r s
W e ig h t o f g la u b e r ’s s a lt = 1 0 g / L it e r x 1 0 0 L it e r s
= 1 0 00 g ra m s
W e ig h t o f g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id = 2 m l/ / L it e r x 1 0 0 lit e r s
= 200 m l
W e ig h t o f d y e ( 2 . 5 % ) = 2 .5 % /1 0 0 x 5 0 0 0 g ra m s
= 1 2 5 g ram s
W e ig h t o f 4 0 % a c e t ic a c id = 1 2 5 g ram s
Flow Process for Basic Dyeing
G la u b e r ’s s a lt
3 0 - 4 5 m in a t b o il
d y e s tu ff
1 0 m in R in s e ( 3 x )
W a te r (L R 1 :5 0 )
g la c ia l a c e t ic a c id
to p H 4 -5
in d ig e n o u s f ib e r s
What is Color matching?
C o lo r m a t c h in g is th e s y s t e m w h e r e in y o u c a n
fo r m u la t e s h a d e /s b y u s in g s m a ll q u a n titie s o f
s a m p le /s b y u s in g t h e tr ia l a n d e r r o r m e th o d in
o b ta in in g th e d e s ir e d s h a d e /s .
T o v is u a liz e c o lo r s h a d e s h e r e a r e s o m e c o lo r c o m b in a t io n s t o c o n s id e r :
F r o m P r im a r y C o lo r s T o S e c o n d a r y C o lo r s
+
red b lu e v io le t
+
red y e llo w orange
+
b lu e y e llo w green
1 . P r e p a r e s to c k s o lu tio n s o f d y e s tu ffs to b e u s e d fo r C o lo r
m a t c h in g ( e x a m p le : 1 % s t o c k s o lu t io n m e a n s : 1 g r a m o f
d y e s t u f f t o b e d is s o lv e in 1 0 0 m l w a t e r ) .
2 . P r e p a r e s e v e r a l s a m p le s f o r c o lo r m a tc h in g f r o m th e m a t e r ia ls
t o b e u s e d in d y e in g o r p r o d u c t io n .
3 . C o m p u t e f o r t h e a u x ilia r ie s a n d d y e s t u f f s in a c c o r d a n c e t o
f o r m u la g iv e n f o r e a c h c o lo r o f t h e d e s ir e d s h a d e .
4 . C o m p u t e v o lu m e o f w a t e r s in g liq u o r r a t io ( L R ) 1 : 1 0 0 .
5 . M e a s u r e v o lu m e o f c o m p u t e d d y e s t u f f s f r o m t h e s t o c k s o lu t io n
u s in g p ip e t t e s .
6 . A d d v o lu m e o f m e a s u r e d d y e s t u f f s a n d s u b t r a c t it f r o m t h e
c o m p u t e d v o lu m e o f w a t e r.
7 . P r o c e e d t o d y e in g p r o c e s s .
• A f t e r d r y in g , c o m p a r e r e s u lt s w it h s w a t c h .
9 . R e p e a t t r ia ls o f a d ju s t m e n t o f o n e d y e s t u f f a f t e r t h e o t h e r u n t il
s u c h t im e r e s u lt w ill b e t h e s a m e w it h t h e d e s ir e d s h a d e .
1 0 . F in a l r e c ip e m u s t b e f ille d f o r r e f e r e n c e s .
Sample Calculation for Color matching
B o ta n ic a l N a m e S c ie n tif ic N a m e P a r ts U se d C o lo r it I m p a r t s
A c h u e te B ix a o r e lla n a L . se e d s lig h t o r a n g e ,
y e llo w o r a n g e
B u lu b u lu E v o d ia b in t o k o le a v e s g r a y ,b r o w n ,
B la n c o y e llo w is h b r o w n
D u h a t S y z ig i u m c u m in i b a r k b r o w n
L . S k e e ls
F ic u s s e p tic a
H a w ili u r m . F . v a r. le a v e s b la c k , g r a y
s e p tic a
I n d ig o f e r a
I n d ig o tin c to r ia l le a v e s b lu e
P i t h c e l l o b iu m
K a m a c h ille d u lc e (R o x b ) b a r k b r o w n
C e ib a
K a p o k p e n ta n d r a L . b a r k p in k to p in k is h
G a e r tn . b r o w n
L ig h t b r o w n ,
L u a m T e c t o n a g r a n d is L . le a v e s v io le t
C u r cu m a lo n g g a
L u y a n g D ila w L in n . r h iz o m e s y e llo w
C a s e s a l p in i a p u r p le /v io le t,
S ib u k a o /S a p a n sa p p a n L . w o o d m a r o o n , p in k ,
p e a c h
T e r m i n a l ia
T a lis a y c a ta p p a L . le a v e s b la c k , g r a y
T h an k Y o u
O f f ic e : D e p a r t m e n t o f S c ie n c e a n d T e c h n o lo g y
P h i lip p in e T e x t i le R e s e a r c h In s t it u t e
A d d r e s :s : G e n S a n t o s A v e . B i c u t a n , T a g u i g M e t r o M a n i l a
T e le fa x : 8 3 7 -1 3 2 5 ; 8 3 7 -1 3 3 8 ; 8 3 7 -1 1 5 7
U RL : h t t p ://w w w . p t r i. d o s t . g o v . p h
E m a il : p t r i@ d o s t . g o v . p h