FASHION DESIGN

PORTFOLIO
Karolina Subrtova

Karolina Subrtova
2015// TAILORING EXERCISE
SIMPLE ETUDE OF COPYING A SHAPE OF A CHO-
SEN EXISTING DESIGN OF A JACKET FROM AN
IMAGE WHILE
ALTERING THE WAY IT’S BEEN SHAPED WITH
PANELS & ADDING POCKETS + VENT

A. MCQUEEN LEATHER JACKET USED AS

A REFERENCE
Karolina Subrtova
 2015// DRESS TOILE EXERCISE
Karolina Subrtova

DRESS DESIGN & TOILE

A PLAY WITH SHAPE + VOLUME
WHILE INCOMPORATING
A RAGLAN SLEEVE
2016// ITALIAN HOUSE RE-BRANDING
AN EXERCISE ON DESIGNING
A COLLECTION FOR
A TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
BRAND. WORKING WITH
TAILORING AND HERITAGE
OF A CHOSEN BRAND, WHILE
ANALYSING THE PAST AND
FUTURE DIRECTION
& COMBINING IT WITH

BEING ‘APPOINTED’ TO
DESIGN A COLLECTION FOR
GUCCI, WHICH HAS JUST
UNDERGONE A MAJOR
REBRANDING WITH
ALESSANDRO
MICHELE, I CHOSE TO
EXPLORE THE BRAND’S
HISTORY AND MICHELE’S
TACTICS, WHICH PUT THE
HOUSE IN A FASHION
SPOTLIGHT AGAIN.
Karolina Subrtova
 GUCCI COLLECTION: F/W 2017
MIXING IN SEASONAL TREND
ANALYSIS, I LET MYSELF BE
INSPIRED BY ECLECTIC STYLE
OF ITALIAN ECCENTRICS GIO
PONTI & CARLO MOLLINO
WITH UNDISCOVERED GE-
NIUSES OF ART BRUT. NAT-
URALLY, JUST AS MICHELE
DOES, I MIXED REFERENCES
GUCCI’S ICONIC PAST.

Karolina Subrtova
2016// ITALIAN HOUSE RE-BRANDING

FOLLOWING UP ON
MICHELE’S NEW VISION FOR
GUCCI,
I LET MYSELF EXPLORE
COLOURFUL VINTAGE
TRIMMINGS OF 60’S AND 70’S.

ECLECTISM AND ECCENTRICITY - IT’S

ALL ABOUT CREATING SURPISING
CONNECTIONS AND
MAPS OF MEANING!

FOR THE PALETTE, I LOOKED INTO

COLOUR COMBINATIONS OF 60’S
PSYCHEDELIC POSTERS AND ITALIAN
MODERNISM.

SILHOUETTES? RE-INTERPRETING 70’S

AND HALSTON’S CLASSICS, ADRESSED
BY TOM FORD IN GUCCIS HEYDAY.

I WOULD MAKE PRINTS BY WORKING

WITH MARBLING TECHNIQUES AND
EMBROIDERY DESIGNS WITH
NOTABLE ART BRUT REFERENCES.
Karolina Subrtova
 GUCCI HERITAGE & TREND RESEARCH
SILHOUETTE SKETCHING.

LEATHER PAINT
DESIGN SAMPLE.
BAMBOO HAS
ALWAYS PLAYED A
SPECIAL ROLE IN A
HISTORY OF GUCCI.
Karolina Subrtova
2016// ITALIAN HOUSE RE-BRANDING
AFTER DESIGNING THE GUCCI
COLLECTION, I WAS ASSIGNED TO MAKE
A GARMENT, WHILE EXPERIMENTING
WITH CLASSIC TAILORING & TEXTILE
TECHNIQUES.

THE RESULT WAS A SOFT WOOL 2-PIECE

TRENCH COAT. THE BOTTOM PART -
Karolina Subrtova

BELTED SLEEVELESS COAT COULD BE

WORN BY ITSELF, OR COMBINED WITH A
KIMONO JACKET.
 GARMENT REALISATION FOR GUCCI
THE APPLIQUÉ AT THE BACK IS
A RESULT OF COMBINING
TRADITIONAL MARBLING DYEING
TECHNIQUE WITH OP-ART MOSAIC. THE
PATTERN WAS INSPIRED BY 60’S ARTIST
BRIDGET RILEY.

Karolina Subrtova
Karolina Subrtova 2015// BOTTEGA VENETA & GERHARD RICHTER
 ITALIAN BRAND & ARTIST COLLABORATION
WORKING WITH ASSIGNED ITALIAN
BRAND & CONTEMPORARY ARTIST, CRE-
ATING A COLLABORATION BETWEEN
THE TWO.

AGAIN, I WAS EXPLORING ROOTS OF

THE BRAND, PAST COLLECTIONS & THE
DIRECTION IT’S TAKING NOW. I RE-
SEARCHED GERHARD RICHTER’S BODY
OF WORK AND THOUGHT ABOUT POINTS
OF CONNECTION: THE CREATIVE DIREC-
TOR OF BOTTEGA VENETA, TOMAS MAI-
ER, BEARS THE SAME GERMAN HERITAGE,
BERLIN.

Karolina Subrtova
 Look #1 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
einfach Look #2 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
einfach Look #7 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
einfach
2015// BOTTEGA VENETA & GERHARD RICHTER technical collection
Gerhard Richter
technical collection
Gerhard Richter
technical collection
Gerhard Richter

fabrics fabrics fabrics

polyester A1 cotton 1 wool 1 cotton 1

100% polyester 100% cotton 100% wool 100% cotton
polyester B1 polyester B2

trims trims
100% polyester 100% polyester

trims
fastening 1

fastening 2 zipper B elastic

elastic zipper A
Karolina Subrtova Karolina Subrtova Karolina Subrtova

Look #3 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x

Gerhard Richter einfach Look #4 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
Gerhard Richter einfach Look #9 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
Gerhard Richter einfach
technical collection technical collection technical collection

fabrics fabrics fabrics

polyester A2 wool 1
100% polyester 100% wool polyester B1 polyester B2
100% polyester 100% polyester

trims trims trims

fastening 3

elastic fastening 5 elastic zipper A

fastening 3 elastic

Karolina Subrtova Karolina Subrtova Karolina Subrtova

Look #5 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x

Gerhard Richter einfach Look #6 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
Gerhard Richter einfach Look #11 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
Gerhard Richter einfach
technical collection technical collection technical collection

fabrics fabrics fabrics

polyester B2 silk 1 cotton 1 silk 1 polyester A1

100% polyester 100% silk 100% cotton 100% silk 100% polyester

trims trims trims

elastic fastening 3 zipper A

fastening 1 fastening 1

Karolina Subrtova Karolina Subrtova Karolina Subrtova

Look #10 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x

Gerhard Richter einfach Look #8 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
Gerhard Richter einfach
Look #12 SS 17 Bottega Veneta x
Gerhard Richter einfach technical collection technical collection

technical collection
Karolina Subrtova

fabrics fabrics
fabrics

polyester B1 polyester B2 polyester A1 silk 2

100% polyester 100% polyester 100% silk
100% polyester

wool 1
100% wool
cotton 1
100% cotton
trims trims
trims

zipper A
fastening 1 fastening 4
Karolina Subrtova Karolina Subrtova
fastening 1 zipper B fastening 4

Karolina Subrtova
 RESEARCH & GARMENT DEVELOPEMENT
Karolina Subrtova

THIS TIME, I RESEARCHED 70’S/80’S ERA

OF EAST BERLIN, ESPECIALLY THE
AESTHETICS STEMMING FROM
COLLECTIVE OF SIBYLLE, THE ONLY
FASHION MAGAZINE OF THAT TIME AND
PLACE. I WAS COMPLETELY FASCINATED
BY THE ATMOSPHERE IT PORTRAYED….
2015// BOTTEGA VENETA & GERHARD RICHTER

LOOK NO.1:
LAYERED EMBROILED MIDI DRESS WITH
TWO ELASTIC BANDS
Karolina Subrtova
 2 OUTFITS TOILE PROCESS
LOOK NO. 2:
PANELLED & DRAPED KNEE-LENGHT
DRESS WITH DUNGAREES AND METAL
HOOPS DETAIING

Karolina Subrtova
Karolina Subrtova 2015// ‘AVANT-GARDE’ COLLECTION

TECHNICAL DRAWINGS: MAIN GARMENTS OF EACH LOOK

 S/S 2017 ANIMA
AN EXERCISE ON DEVELOPING AN AVANT-GARDE COLLECTION
IN MY PERSONAL DIRECTION OF STYLE.

ANIMA WAS AN EXPLORATION OF STRONG CONTEMPORARY

FEMININITY INSPIRED BY MYSTICISM OF FEMALE ARTIST
VISIONARIES - SUCH AS AGNES MARTIN AND
MARINA ABRAMOVIC.

EXPLORING NATURAL MATERIALS - LIQUID LATEX, QWARTZ

CRYSTALS, LINEN AND COTTON ROPES - COMBINING THEM
WITH MODERN HIGH QUALITY POLYESTERS AND NYLONS
- I AIMED FOR FEMININE SILHOUETTES WITH DIRECTIONAL
STREET WEAR EDGE.

Karolina Subrtova
2015// ‘AVANT-GARDE’ COLLECTION
Karolina Subrtova

INSPIRED BY AGNES MARTIN’S GEOMETRY AND

CRYSTALS, THIS PANELLED DRESS
COMBINES TEXTURED NATURAL MATERIALS
WITH ACRYLIC PAINT, ROPE IN SEAMS AND
LAYERS OF IRIDESCENT NYLON.
 OUTFIT 1&2
Karolina Subrtova

AN AVANT-GARDE PIECE MADE OF POLYESTER

MESH AND EDGES DIPPED IN LIQUID LATEX,
THIS VERSATILE DRESS IS HELD TOGETHER BY
4 SEPARATE ROPES AND COULD BE ADJUSTED
ALONG.
2016// LIQUID MODERNITY - STAGE 1

THE BEGINNING OF A YEAR-LONG PROJECT: THE GRADUATE

COLLECTION. THE INITIAL STAGE OF MY RESEARCH REVOLVED
AROUND IDEAS ON UTOPIAN URBAN PLANNING AND FLUID
MODERNIST SCULPTURE. AT FIRST, THE PROJECT WAS NAMED
‘THE ISLAND’
- AFTER ALDOUS HUXLEY’S NOVEL.

MY MAIN INSPIRATION FOR STRUCTURE AND SHAPES WERE

ARTWORKS OF BARBARA HEPWORTH AND HENRY MOORE.
Karolina Subrtova
Karolina Subrtova RESEARCH AND CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT

2016// LIQUID MODERNITY - STAGE 1
OUTFIT NO. 1 TECHNICALS OUTFIT NO. 2
Cropped leather jacket with connected sleeves - worn
at the back on the illustration. Soft waist corset made
of leather, ispired by Barbara Hepworth sculptures. An
asymetrical light silk dress shaped by boning inserted
into seam pannels with slight flare at the hem and Versatile soft draped silk top held and contrasted by leath-
TECHNICALS

A.
rounded side slit. Zip opening is at the front, long sleeves A. er strapped parts. Sculpted white wrap skirt made with
have a full lenght slit mimicking the opening at the side heavier textured material. Asymetrical hem at the back,
of the dress. accompanied by leather and embroidery hole detail. B.

INSPIRATION
INSPIRATION
B.

FABRICS Le Corbusier
FABRICS
Wind by Lynn Chadwick
C.
A.
B. A.
D. C. C.
A. B. C.
COLOURS COLOURS

Henry Moretti
Barbara Hepworth A. B. C. D. A. B. C.

OUTFIT NO. 3 TECHNICALS OUTFIT NO. 4 TECHNICALS

Short sleeve d leather coat with side opening details and Draped top with shoulder cut-outs and sculptured ruffled
geometrical panelling. Contrasting embroidered panels sleeves - which could also be worn un-tied into full lenght C.
with holes at the back bottom. Silk dress with draped de- for a softer voluminou look. Contrasting leather straps and
tail around the torso, Panelling through full lenght, including binding. Seemingly traditional bell bottom crop tousers
with an architectural shaping visible from a side, made
seams, rounded slit on both sides.
with a textured raw silk. Leather shorts with connected
D.
hems at knee level could be worn over them.

INSPIRATION A. INSPIRATION
B.
Henry Moretti

C.

FABRICS FABRICS
Barbara Hepworth

A. B. A.
B. C. D. A. D. C.
COLOURS COLOURS
D.

B. Auroville
Richardo Bofill A. D. C. D. A. B. C. D.

OUTFIT NO. 8
OUTFIT NO. 5 TECHNICALS
TECHNICALS

Wrap dress with black draped silk detailing around

B.
shoulder and waist. Some parts are painted over with con-
Layers of two simple dresses made of textured silk and trasting bright teal. Combined with simple sleevless silk
silk & cashmere blend, combined with complex sculptural coat. Armholes are elongated all the way down - draping
leather corset. There are numerous combinations for and the belt could move freely through these holes, while C.
wearing these pieces. B. wrapping around the body.

INSPIRATION
INSPIRATION
Le Corbusier Henry Moore
Charles and Ray Eames
A.
C.

Barbara Hepworth

FABRICS FABRICS
A.
B. B.
A. B. C. A. C.

COLOURS COLOURS

Le Corbusier
A. B. C. A. B. C.

OUTFIT NO. 6 TECHNICALS OUTFIT NO. 7 TECHNICALS

B.
Leather dress / coat / cape with geometrical panels, zip
Deconstructed asymetrical silk shirt with oversized C.
opening at the front, contrasting belt and holes on lowered
kimono sleeves. Sculpted trosers with draped white leath- tied sleeve and brightly painted panel. Side - shaped
er detail at the waist. tailored trousers combined with leather hole - detailed
& panelled wrap.
KAROLINA
SUBRTOVA D.

INSPIRATION C.
A.
B. INSPIRATION
A.
Henry Moore

C.
Le Corbusier
FABRICS FABRICS
A. B.
B. C.
C. D. A. B. D.
COLOURS COLOURS
Karolina Subrtova

A. B. C. D. Saloua Raouda Choucair A. B. C. D.

Richardo Bofill

TECHNICAL BOARDS OF FIRST OUTFIT IDEAS. EACH BOARD

DESCRIBES INSPIRATIONS BEHIND THOSE.
 TECHNICAL & INSPIRATION BOARDS

MOODPBOARD, COLOUR CHART AND PROPOSED FABRICS -

Karolina Subrtova

TEXTURED SILKS, LINEN, COATED COTTON AND JAPANESE

POLYESTER.
2016// LIQUID MODERNITY - STAGE 1

THE DEVELOPMENT OF SKIRT INSPIRED BY BARBARA

HEPWORTH’S MEMORIAL SCULPTURE. WHEN UNWRAPPED,
THE PIECE COPIES THE EXACT SHAPE.

IT WAS FINALLY REALISED WITH HEAVILY FUSED LINEN AND

SILK LINING.
Karolina Subrtova
Karolina Subrtova 1ST OUTFIT DEVELOPMENT
2016// LIQUID MODERNITY - STAGE 1

A WRAP BLOUSE WITH A SCULPTURAL

CORSET - AGAIN, INSPIRED BY
HEPWORTH’S SCULPTURE.

OUTFIT NO. 10 TECHNICALS

Wrapped crop blouse could be worn with or without the

sculptural corset with eyelets on the side. Sleeves of the
A.
bouse wit a slit on the inside and moveable strapsinside of
cuffs could be worn in at least 3 diferent ways. Connected
bell-bottoms resemble priimitive aesthetic forms of Bar-
bara Hepworth and Henry Moore..

INSPIRATION
Karolina Subrtova

C.

B.

FABRICS
Barbara Hepworth

A. B. C.
COLOURS

Barbara Hepworth
A. B. C.
 1ST & 2ND OUTFIT TOILE DEVELOPMENT
A HEAVY COTTON JACKET WITH
SLEEVE DETAILING & LINEN
TROUSERS CONNECTED IN A
BOTTOM.

OUTFIT NO. 9 TECHNICALS

Sculptured and heavily fused wrap skirt - while

unwrapped, the pattern resembles Barbara Hep-
worth’s famous sculpture. One of the panels is
painted with contrasting bright teal. Combined with
leather bomber jacket. Architectural details at the
back, connecting side of sleeves and moveable
straps on shoulders & wrists.

C.
INSPIRATION
Karolina Subrtova

Le Corbusier

A.
FABRICS

B.
A.
B. C.
Barbara Hepworth
COLOURS

The unwrapped skirt

A. B. C.
2017// LIQUID MODERNITY - STAGE 2
THE NEXT STAGE OF DEVELOPMENT - SEARCH FOR NEW IDEAS
WITH A FURTHER FOCUS ON MODERNIST SCULPTURE AND
ARCHITECTURE.
Karolina Subrtova
 CONCEPT RE-DEVELOPMENT & DIGITAL PRINTS
Why are we so drawn to modernist aesthetic? How does it express times we live in? Is modernist architecture and it’s ideals utopian or dystopian? I
asked myself these ques tions at the beginning of my design journey and along the way, I discovered the elegant japanesque architecture of Car-
lo Scarpa and playful erotic world of another Italian modernist architect, Carlo Mollino.
I was inspired by biomorphic shapes of Hepworth, Moore and Calder. While reading about recently deceased sociologist Zygmunt Bauman,
I was introduced to the idea of Liquid Modernity - in our times, nothing is solid, all is uncertain and flows. Aren’t all these shapes I studied quite liquid
too?
While I was thinking of prints for my collection, ‘liquidified’ brush paintings of Fabienne Verdier and James Nares came to my mind. Resem-
bling japanese calligraphy, adding oriental yet playful touch to the garments, they could be an expression of our floating world.

Wrap dress made of lightweight wool, leather

boned corset, silk chiffon and long flowy print-
ed sleeve. The see - through part and visible
corset resembles revealing eroticism of Carlo
Mollino polaroids.

Wrap around silk & leather top with hooks and eyes opening,
combined with silk trousers and optional chiffon skirt, worn
around hips.
Heavyweight and fused for structure, this wrap skirt
copies shape of Barbara Hepworth sculpture when
laying flat. Lined with pink silk dupion, originally
intended to have eyelets with 3m printed silk scarf
traveling through.
Karolina Subrtova

Leather and silk top with drape at the back hides corset
boning structure inside.
2017// LIQUID MODERNITY - STAGE 2

EXPERIMENTING WITH FLUID AND CALLIGRAPHY

INSPIRED PRINTS - PAINTED ON LARGE PIECES OF PAPER
AND TRANSLATED INTO DIGITAL PRINT. I ALSO EXPLORED
LEATHER WORK AND CORSETRY TECHNIQUES.
Karolina Subrtova
 KEY GARMENTS TOILES & REALISATION
THE CONCEPT OF WRAPPING AROUND, STRONG
STRUCTURE VS. FLUID DRAPES IS PRESENT IN THE WHOLE
COLLECTION.

Karolina Subrtova
2017// WEDDING DRESS REALISATION

A BESPOKE WEDDING DRESS REALISATION.

MADE OF ORGANIC SILK & HEMP BLEND AND
FRENCH LACE PANELS, I DESIGNED THE PIECE
WITH VERSATILITY IN MIND - IT COULD BE
WORN EVEN AFTER THE MAIN EVENT.
Karolina Subrtova
 2017// LIQUID MODERNITY - STAGE 3
FURTHER DEVELOPMENT OF IDEAS
BROUGHT FORWARD FROM
PREVIOUS STAGE. CONTINUING TO
WORK WITH LEATHER - THIS TIME
RECYCLED ECO-LEATHER - AND
MORE COMPLEX PRINTS - INSPIRED
BY CONCEPT OF LIQUID
MODERNITY AND BODIES OF WATER
IN EVER-CHANGING CITIES SUCH AS
LONDON.

Karolina Subrtova
2017// LIQUID MODERNITY - FINAL STAGE

TRANSFORMING
PREVIOUS GARMENT
IDEAS INTO NEW,
PLAYING AROUND WITH
NEW COLOURFUL
PALETTES.
Karolina Subrtova
 FURTHER CONCEPT DEVELOPMENT
FINALLY, I LEANED
TOWARDS OFF-WHITE
AND EARTHY COLOURS,
SO THE COLOURFUL
PRINTS COULD STAND
OUT. THE CORE FABRICS
WERE WOOL AND SILK
CREPE, WAXED COTTON
FOR OUTERWEAR AND
ECO-LEATHER & METAL
HOOPS FOR DETAILING.

Karolina Subrtova
2017// LIQUID MODERNITY A MINI TOP WITH COR-
SET FASTENING IN
CENTRAL FRONT
& HIDDEN BONING FOR
BUST STRUCTURE.

FLARED WOOL CREPE

SKIRT WITH COMPLEX
DETACHABLE LEATHER
& METAL BELT.
Karolina Subrtova
 FINAL OUTFITS 1&2
WOOL MIDI DRESS
WITH WHITE LEATHER
HARNESS DETAIL AND
PRINTED SILK SHAWL.

Karolina Subrtova
2017// LIQUID MODERNITY SAND-WASHED SILK
DRAPED TUNIC WITH
CONNECTED DRAPED
SLEEVE DETAIL AND
AGAIN, LEATHER
HARNESS.
Karolina Subrtova
 FINAL OUTFITS 3&4
WATERPROOF AND
LIGHT WAXED COTTON
JACKET WITH DRAPED
BELTS AND LEATHER/
METAL DETAIL AT THE
BACK.

Karolina Subrtova
2017// LIQUID MODERNITY
ULTRA FEMININE
LAYERED WAXED
COTTON COAT WITH
KIMONO-LIKE SLEEVES &
LEATHER BELTS.
Karolina Subrtova
 FINAL OUTFITS 5&6
PRINTED CREPE SILK
KIMONO WRAP DRESS
WITH SCULPTURAL
LEATHER DETAIL AND
HOOK & EYE
CORSET-LIKE
FASTENING.

Karolina Subrtova
2017// LIQUID MODERNITY - FINAL OUTFIT 7

FLOWY LEATHER & SILK

JUMPSUIT WITH WRAP
DETAILING AT THE
BACK OF THE TROUSERS.
AGAIN, THE CORCET
FASTENING IS HIDDEN
IN THE FRONT.
Karolina Subrtova
 2014// STILL LIFE DRAWINGS
REALISTIC PENCIL
STILL-LIFE DRAWING OF
MY OLD COLLECTION OF
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD
HEELS. RECYCLED A2
PAPERS AND GRAPHITE.

Karolina Subrtova
2017// BUSINESS PLAN EXERCISE
1.2 Intermediate environment
Introduction 1.2.1 Competitor analysis
Brand Competitors Overview
is an
emerging womenswear fashion brand, focused on edgy
sensual garments with strong cultural influences spanning
from modern art to contemporary street wear, while still Christopher Kane has launched his own
label in 2006, upon graduating from Central
retaining certain elegance of tailoring a femininity of soft, Saint Martins with his award-winning
drapey dresses. collection.
While Kane does not exactly
have a signature look, his collections are
The brands identity lies on the edge of traditional yet immediatelly recognizable. His style is a
contemporary, sexy yet intelectual, sensual yet wearable, play of bold modern aesthetics and femi-
ninity with attitude.
avantgarde yet classicaly feminine.
During the ten years of label’s
existence, Kane has been acknowledged
Toy is aiming at small local production with base in Prague, for revitalisation of British high fashion.
Now, Christopher Kane is
home of emerging artsy fashion scene, with ambition to a part of Kering group (which owns 51%
expand to major European cities. share) - this accelerated brand awareness
in 2013. In past 2 years, Kane opened his
own flagship store in London and world-
wide online store.
J. W Anderson has launched his brand as
a menswear label in 2008 and he has sub-
sequently shown his first collection during
London Fashion Week the same year with
a great success. Embodying London’s spirit
for daring innovation, he soon received a
cult following among fashion crowd.
His signature aesthetic is
based on androgyny, blurring lines between
masculinity and femininity. Since 2010,
Anderson also deisgns and sells womens-
wear. Since that, the brand awareness be-
gan to grow even in Asian and US markets.
J. W. Anderson received
wide recognition through numerous
awards. Recently, LVMH has made an
investment in the brand. Anderson has
recently also been appointed Creative
Maison Margiela is renowed French fashion
house founded in 1988 by Antwerp Six
designer Martin Margiela.
Margiela has been famous
for creating invisible, mysterious persona,
which has contributed to a unique brand
image. All employees of the house wear
white coats of couture craftsmen, all interiors
associated with the brand are minimal and
white, models during fashion shows have
obscured faces, so everything can be just
and only about the clothes.
In 2012, Margiela successfully
collaborated with H&M.
In 2014, John Galliano was
appointed to replace Martin Margiela in his
position of Creative Director. The direction
he has taken so far has found great acclaim.

Competitors’ Venn Diagrams

1.2.2 Market Segmentation
A. Geographic C. Psychography D. Behavioral
- Europe; Central, Eastern, Southern, - Educated, BA and higher - Casual - Formal - Eveningwear
mysterious sensual sensual Scandinavia and the United Kingdom - Strong and independent - Practical yet stylish urban style
tailoring feminine feminine - City centres - Sophisticated, arty, seductive and smart - Likes to experiment with different brands,
sexy
draping streetwear influence - Culturally engaged, interested in what but stays loyal when something feels
is going on personal
feminine
arty
strong brand image
mysterious B. Demographic - Enjoys travelling, exploring places & - Passionate buyer
edgy edgy
strong brand image - 20 - 50 people - Very aesthetic, yet values versatillity,
arty
playful playful - Female - Confident yet open to new practicality and lasting quality
deconstruction
sexy provocative - Upper middle and upper class
contemporary investment pcs. - Sexy with integrity
- Higher disposable income
innovation trending exclusive

1.2.3 Market Targeting - Concentrated (Niche)

lace/embelishments collaborations couture
celebrities

A. Value Proposition B. Audience C. Consumer relationship

- Working with contrasts: sensual yet arty, - 25-45 years old - Sophisticated artsiness, sensuality, con-
intelectual. - Wants to feel sexy, yet smart and con- ceptual approach. Very contemporary.
- Playful yet mysteriously dark. Wearable temporary. - Investment pieces.
avantgarde. - Strong, independent, educated woman.
- Feminine and strong. - Wants to complement her lifestyle.
D. Range Authority
- Feminine flowy dresses, blouses, skirts
and jumpsuits.
- Tailored and (de-) constructed coats
and jackets.

buy vintage Margiela pieces. At the same time she loves to mix
Consumer Pen Portrait and match with streetwear or pieces she finds shopping during
her travels.

Alexandra, 31 is single She enjoys shopping online, as she finds it conve-

freelance graphic designer, occasinaly
working as an independent gallery curator.
She lives between Berlin, London and
Prague, she likes to travel and discover new
trendy, or even lesser known places.
When she travels, she ex-
pects to meet new interesting people and
explore culture, her job does not need her
to stay in one particular place. She usually
stays in hip city quarters in boutique hotels,
or shares apartments with her creative
friends or colleagues.
This means her lifestyle is
very independent, eclectic, yet minimalist.
She has a considerable disposable income,
loves beautiful crafted objects, but at the
same time she does not want to own too
many things - that is the ultimate luxury for
nient, when she feels like it she visits pop-up stores or hip indepen-
dent boutiques, such as LN-CC.
Alexandra spends her free time exploring cities,
visiting cultural spaces such as Barbican, friends at their studios,
independent cinemas and galleries, having nights out enjoying
good food with friends, or dancing at uber-cool warehouse parties
and clubs such as Berghain in Berlin.
The Gentlewoman magazine Ace Hotel London Stealthelook.com.br Style.com Christopher Kane
/Berghain club Berlin She spends most of her money on experiences, traveling and
clothes and does not mind saving money in areas where most of
the people spend most - rent, family, car...etc.
She is concious of her environment and is
especially fond of local artisans and crafts
people. Support for independent culture
holds a special value, as she is an indepen-
dent creative working with young artists.
As she has spent bic portion
of her life and studies dedicated to culture,
music and literature, she enjoys when de-
The Barbican centre

her - not to be weighted down. Hence she sign is referencing various areas of art - she
seeks certain practicality and timelessness likes designers such as J. W. Anderson and
in thing she buys. Christopher Kane. Sometimes she saves Vogue Italy Collagevintage.com Prague Collagevintage.com
La Belle Luciella/instagram

1.2.4 Brand Positioning - Maps

intelectual young

trendy timeless mysterious accesible

unpretentious arty/contemporary grown-up

feminine androgynous

wearable sensual/sexy

traditional
Karolina Subrtova

complex/ minimal playful dark

embelished

avantgarde cool

AN EXERCISE ON CONDUCTING A FASHION BRAND BUSINESS PLAN - EXAMPLES OF THE ANALYSIS.

 ILLUSTRATION.
EXAMPLES OF EXPRESSIVE FASHION
Karolina Subrtova 2015// FASHION ILLUSTRATION