Ultralight Pack

G4 by GVP Gear
Introduction
This pack began as an experiment to see how light I could make a pack. It is highly
specialized to the way my main hiking buddy Read Miller and I hike and the gear we
carry. It is designed to carry loads of 20 - 30 lbs. It is based on the first three packs I
made, which have been used for 3 seasons and hundreds of trail miles. Read had a
number of requests. One was that the pack be light. He likes to carry a Platypus with
a drinking hose, so he wanted an outside side pocket where the water can hang
upside down for ease of drinking, but be visible in case it leaks. Our sleeping pads
are Z-Rest pads that are cut down to 6 sections and trimmed to 15” wide. Read
wanted to be able to sit on his pad while he packed his pack, then put the pad onto the
pack for back padding. He likes to take a slightly larger sleeping bag for some winter
trips, so the bottom of the pack is larger for that purpose. He wanted a spot that he
could shove something to dry out without worrying that it would slip from under a strap
and drop unnoticed to the trail. He likes a waistbelt to help secure the pack and
distribute the weight.

Features
• Weight: 12 oz. (depending on how short you trim straps, how big your waist is, etc.)
• Capacity: 4400+ cu. in.
• Deep mesh side pockets for water and quick-access items
• Mesh back pocket for drying items
• Waist belt included
• Material cost: approx. $30

Material List (first number is Quest Outfitters item no. 800-359-6931)

1013 200 denier coated oxford or 330d Cordura 1 yd.
1014 2.2 oz. coated ripstop nylon 7/8 yd. (28” minimum)
1209 Lycra micro mesh 1/4 yd.
1201 Poly mesh 1/2 yd.
2030 1” nylon webbing (lt. wt.) 2 2/3 yds.
2031 ¾” Grosgrain ribbon 3 yds.
2402 3/32” shock cord 1 1/2 yds.
2507 1/16” drawcord 1 1/3 yds
3010 1” ladderlock buckles 2 ea.
3067 1” Dual side release buckle 1 ea.
2700 thread (120 yd. spool) 3 ea.
3059 elliptical toggle 1 ea.
2100 ¾” Hook (like Velcro) 2/3 yd.
2101 ¾” Loop (like Velcro) 2/3 yd.

For optional slide top closure order…

2402 Shock cord 1 1/ 3 yds. more

Other substitutions you may want to consider…

Substitute #1044 330 Denier Cordura for the oxford cloth – the cordura is a little heavier, but has a higher
thread count and is a little more durable.
For solid side pockets if you travel through brush a lot, order an additional 1/3 yd. of ripstop.
For lighter mesh, order the 1207 Mesh Lining for use in pockets. Some people have had troubles with brush
ripping holes in the pockets, but others have used their packs for hundreds of miles with little or no
damage. Put a small panel of ripstop in the bottom.
For a lighter pack, you could use 1024 1.1 oz. silicon-coated nylon in place of the 2.2 oz. ripstop. The 1.1 oz.
usually has more limited color availability, and is much more difficult to work with because it is so
darned slippery. It is not recommended for your first attempt.

[Note: To connect up with other people who have sewn a G4, and may be able to provide
guidance or answer questions, join the yahoo group at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/G4-Pack]

Drawings by Roy L. Robinson Revised October 26, 2006

 NOTE: Read all instructions before beginning the project)

Step 1: Cutting Materials

1.1 Cut out all fabric pieces according to Figures 1A and 1B. Be careful on the side
bottoms, shoulder straps and waist belt pieces to cut one right and one left. The
shoulder strap and the waist belt pieces will need two face pieces and two lining pieces
each. A rotary cutter is very useful. Note that this pack is made for a medium-height to
tall man. Some modifications of the dimensions may be indicated for people over 6’4” or
shorter than 5’8”. (See back page for instructions on altering the pack for shorter sizes).

FIGURE 1A PATTERN PIECE SIZE CHART (use this chart if you do not have actual size pattern pieces)

G4 Instructions -2-
FIGURE 1B PATTERN PIECE LAYOUT GUIDE

G4 Instructions -3-
1.2 Cut the webbing pieces as follows and sear all ends with a flame:
1 – 10” piece of 1” webbing (haul loop)
2 – 5” pieces of 1” webbing (shoulder strap tops)
2 – 18” pieces 1” webbing (waist belt)
2 – 20” pieces 1”webbing (shoulder strap bottoms)

1.3 Cut the 3/ 4” grosgrain ribbon pieces as follows and sear all ends with a flame:
1 – 10” piece ¾” Grosgrain (bottom lashing/ice axe loop)
4 – 4” pieces ¾” Grosgrain (drinking tube loops, if desired)
2 – 5” pieces ¾” Grosgrain (optional roll-top closures)
2 – 6” pieces ¾” Grosgrain (thumb loops, if desired)
1 – 12” piece ¾” Grosgrain (top pad holder)
1 – 16” piece ¾” Grosgrain (bottom pad holder)
8 – 3½” pieces ¾” Grosgrain (side lashing loops)

1.4 Cut the shockcord and drawcord pieces as follows:

3 – 18” pieces shockcord (top of side and front pockets)
2 – 24” pieces shockcord (slide top) Slide top is optional- see instructions to determine if
you need it.
1 – 48” piece drawcord (collar piece)

1.5 Cut the 3/ 4” hook and loop pieces as follows:

1 – 7” piece hook and loop (cut in half lengthwise to make 2 pieces 3/8” wide)
1 – 5” piece hook and loop (cut in half lengthwise to make 2 pieces 3/8” wide)
2 – 2” pieces of loop (for roll top closure)
2 – 4” pieces of loop (for roll top closure)
1 – 5” piece of hook (for roll top closure)
2 – 2” pieces of hook (for roll top closure)

Assembling the Pieces

Note: All seams 1/2” unless noted otherwise. Some basic sewing experience is assumed.
Keep track of the coated (“wrong” or inside) and uncoated (“right” or outside) sides of the fabric.

Step 2: Shoulder Straps

2.1 NOTE: The thumb and drinking tube loops are optional. Go to step 2.2 if you choose not
to attach them. Fold each thumb loop (two-6" grosgrain ribbon pieces) and drinking tube
loops (four-4" grosgrain ribbon pieces) in half to make a loop. Pin. At locations shown
on the SHOULDER STRAP pattern piece, pin one thumb loop and two drinking tube
loops to each left and right SHOULDER STRAP LINING pieces on the right side of the
fabric. Stitch 1/2" from raw edges.

G4 Instructions -4-
Figure 2.1. Attachment of loops to shoulder straps.
2.2 On all four SHOULDER STRAP pieces make two 1/2" slits in strap where indicated in
Figure 2.2.

Figure 2.2. Shoulder strap slits.

2.3 Fold fabric between slits to wrong side of fabric making 7" tabs. Pin tab to hold in place.

Figure 2.3. Shoulder strap tabs

2.4 With wrong side of fabric facing upward, pin 3/8" x 7" hook and loop fastener pieces on
top of the 7" tabs you just folded over making sure the hook fastener pieces are on the
SHOULDER STRAP LINING pieces and the loop fastener pieces are on the
SHOULDER STRAP FACE pieces. Stitch 1/8" from edges of hook and loop.

2.5 With right sides together pin one SHOULDER STRAP LINING piece to one SHOULDER
STRAP FACE piece. Do same for remaining shoulder strap pieces. Stitch 1/2" from
edges leaving square end and areas with hook and loop unsewn. Trim the fabric close
to stitching at each corner to reduce bulk.

Figure 2.5. Shoulder strap assembly

2.6 Turn the shoulder straps right side out.

G4 Instructions -5-
2.7 Topstitch 1/8” from the edge of shoulder straps except where hook and loop are
attached. Reinforce the two ends of the hook and loop by bartacking through all layers.

Figure 2.7 Topstitch on shoulder strap

2.8 Sew a straight line across end of each strap, 1 1/2" in from the curved end. (see pattern
piece for location). See Figure 2.7

2.9 Sew a ladderlock buckle front side up, to each SHOULDER STRAP piece using the 5"
pieces of 1" webbing (see Figure 2.9) (see pattern piece for location). Make sure you
sew webbing to each right and a left STRAP FACE piece. Bar tack webbing to straps
where shown on pattern piece. These will now be referred to as the SHOULDER STRAP
TOP pieces.

Figure 2.9. Shoulder strap end assembly.

2.10 Set the SHOULDER STRAP TOP pieces aside. Pin each 4½” square SHOULDER
STRAP BRACE pieces (oxford cloth/330d Cordura) onto the two-20” long 1" webbing
straps as shown in Figure 2.10. Stitch 1/8" from edges and bar tack as shown. These
will now be referred to as the SHOULDER STRAP BOTTOM pieces.

Figure 2.10. Shoulder strap braces.

G4 Instructions -6-
Step 3: Waist Belts
3.1 Make two- 1/2" slits in both WAIST BELT FACE pieces and both WAIST BELT LINING
pieces where indicated in Figure 3.1.

Figure 3.1. Waist Belt slits.

3.2 Fold fabric to between slits to wrong side of fabric. Pin tab to hold in place.

Figure 3.2. Waist Belt tabs.

3.3 With wrong side of fabric facing upward, pin 3/8" x 5" pieces of hook and loop fasteners
on top of the 5" tabs you just folded over making sure the hook fastener pieces are on
the WAIST BELT LINING pieces and the loop fastener pieces are on the WAIST BELT
FACE pieces. Stitch 1/8" from edges of hook and loop.

3.4 With right sides of fabric together, pin one WAIST BELT LINING piece to one WAIST
BELT FACE piece. Sew 1/2" from edges leaving the widest square end and areas with
hook and loop unsewn. On the narrowest end, trim the fabric close to the stitching at
each corner to reduce bulk. Do same for the remaining waist belt pieces.

Figure 3.4. Waist Belt assembly

G4 Instructions -7-
3.5 Turn waist belt right side out.

3.6 Topstitch 1/8" from edge around waist belts, except where hook and loop are attached.
Reinforce the two ends of the hook and loop by bar tacking through all layers.

Figure 3.6 Topstitch Waist Belt

3.7 On one-18" piece of 1" webbing fold one end 1 1/4" under and pin. Centering the
webbing, pin folded end of webbing to sewn closed end (small end) of one of the WAIST
BELT pieces. Stitch 1/8" from edge in the folded area. Bar tack as shown in Figure 3.7.
Repeat for other WAIST BELT pieces, making sure you end up with a left and a right
with the webbing sewn on the outside, so it won’t rub against your waist.

Figure 3.7. Attaching webbing to waist belt.

Step 4: Back (Oxford Cloth/330d Cordura)

4.1 Haul Loop

4.1.1 Pin the 10” piece of 1” webbing to the right side of the BACK piece, centered
along the top as shown in Figure 4.1.1. Sew as shown.

G4 Instructions -8-
Figure 4.1.1. Haul loop.

4.2 Attaching Shoulder Strap Tops

4.2.1 Pin the open end of each SHOULDER STRAP TOP piece to the right side of the
fabric on the BACK piece as indicated on the BACK piece of the pattern and
Figure 4.2.1. Lay the straps so the ladderlocks are facing down, and the ends
are curving away from the center. Stitch close to outer edges and do two short
bartacks per strap as shown in Figure 4.2.1.

Figure 4.2.1. Attach shoulder straps to back.

G4 Instructions -9-
 4.2.2 Pin the SHOULDER STRAP COVER piece onto the BACK piece, positioning it
over the ends of the shoulder straps, and 2” from top as shown in Figure 4.2.2.
Stitch SHOULDER STRAP COVER piece close to outer edge along all four
edges. Bar tack three times as shown in Figure 4.2.2.

Figure 4.2.2. Attach Shoulder strap cover piece to back piece.

4.3 Pad Holders

4.3.1 Pin one of the two LYCRA MESH PAD HOLDER pieces over the SHOULDER
STRAP COVER piece positioning it 1/4" below the top edge of the SHOULDER
STRAP COVER piece. NOTE: Use extra pins to prevent stretching when sewing.
Stitch 3/8" from the straight side edges of the PAD HOLDER piece (see Figure
4.3.4).

4.3.2 Pin the 12" piece of grosgrain along the top edge of the LYCRA MESH PAD
HOLDER piece also covering the top edge of the SHOULDER STRAP COVER
piece. Stitch around all four edges of the grosgrain close to the edge (see Figure
4.3.4).

4.3.3 Pin the second LYCRA MESH PAD HOLDER piece on the BACK piece in the
location as shown on Figure 4.3.4 and on the BACK pattern piece. The spacing
between the pad holders will depend on the width of the Z-Rest pad. The pad is 20”
wide when you buy it. I trim mine down to 15”. (Note: whatever width you make the
Z-Rest be sure to place the LYCRA MESH PAD HOLDER at that distance plus 1”).
If you are planning on carrying more than 8 sections, it will be thicker when folded
up, and you may want to add an extra inch or two between the holders. Stitch 3/8"
from the short edges of the LYCRA MESH PAD HOLDER piece. (see Figure 4.3.4).

4.3.4 Pin the 16" piece of grosgrain ribbon along the bottom edge of the LYCRA MESH
PAD HOLDER piece making sure to cover the bottom raw edge of the LYCRA
MESH PAD HOLDER piece. Stitch around all four sides of the grosgrain close to the
edge. (see Figure 4.3.4).

G4 Instructions - 10 -
Figure 4.3.4. Placement of lycra mesh pad holders.

4.4 Attaching Shoulder Strap Bottoms and Lashing Straps

4.4.1 Pin the SHOULDER STRAP BOTTOM pieces onto the BACK piece per Figure
4.4.1. Sew SHOULDER STRAP BOTTOM piece 3/8" from edge of BACK piece.

G4 Instructions - 11 -
Figure 4.4.1. Placement of shoulder strap bottoms and lashing straps.

4.4.2 Trim excess fabric of SHOULDER STRAP BOTTOM pieces (SHOULDER STRAP
BRACES fabric) as shown in Figure 4.4.1.

4.4.3 Pin four of the 3 1/2" grosgrain lashing straps onto the BACK piece shown in Figure
4.4.1. Stitch 3/8" from raw edges.

G4 Instructions - 12 -
4.5 Attaching Waist Belts Pieces to Back Piece

4.5.1 Pin open ends of WAIST BELT pieces to BACK piece (see Figure 4.5.1 for
measurements). Stitch 3/8 from edge of BACK piece as shown in Figure 4.5.1

Figure 4.5.1. Attaching Waist Belts to Back Piece

Step 5: MESH FRONT POCKET Assembly and Attachment

5.1 Front Pocket

5.1.1 With right sides together and matching raw edges, pin one POCKET EDGE piece
(ripstop) along one 15" edge of the MESH FRONT POCKET piece. Stitch 1/2" from
edge. NOTE: If you can't tell the right side and wrong side of the mesh you can use
either side.

Figure 5.1.1. Attaching Pocket Edge Piece to Mesh Front Pocket Piece

5.1.2 Fold the POCKET EDGE piece to the wrong side of the MESH FRONT POCKET
piece lining up the raw edge of the POCKET EDGE piece with the bottom edge of
the POCKET EDGE piece from the front side (the mesh will be sandwiched in
between the ripstop). Pin. Stitch 1/8" from raw edge of ripstop.
G4 Instructions - 13 -
Figure 5.2.2 Attaching Pocket Edge Piece to Mesh Front Pocket Piece

5.1.3 Knot one end of an 18" piece of shockcord. Sear the end with the knot. Thread the
free end of the shockcord into the just created ripstop casing on the MESH FRONT
POCKET piece until the knot is even with the raw edges of the casing. Sew across
the end with the knot 3/8" from the edge. (NOTE: Make certain to sew through the
cord to keep it from pulling out.

5.1.4 Pin the wrong side of the MESH FRONT POCKET piece to the right side of the
FRONT piece (ripstop) (NOTE: the MESH FRONT POCKET piece is 3" wider
than the FRONT piece). First, with bottom edges of MESH FRONT POCKET
piece and FRONT piece even, pin along both sides matching the raw edges, the
top edge of the MESH FRONT POCKET piece should be 6” from the top of the
FRONT piece. Pull the free end of the shockcord until the top of the pocket fits
nicely between the side edges. Pin the shockcord in place. To pin the bottom
edge you will need to gather the MESH FRONT POCKET piece some with little
pleats (tucks) so it will fit from side to side. Stitch 3/8" from edge along each side
edge and the bottom edge making sure to sew through the shockcord. Knot
long end of shockcord close to seam, cut excess cord (not too close to knot) and
sear end of cord.
.

G4 Instructions - 14 -
5.2 Lashing Loops

5.2.1 Pin four- 3 1/2" grosgrain lashing loops onto the FRONT piece per Figure
5.2.1. Stitch 3/8” from raw edges.

Figure 5.2.1 Lashing loops on Front Piece.

5.3 Assembly of Front Piece

5.3.1 With right sides together and matching raw edges, pin FRONT BOTTOM piece
(oxford/330d Cordura) onto FRONT piece (ripstop) as shown in Figure 5.3.1. The
MESH FRONT POCKET will be in between the two pieces. Double stitch 1/2" from
bottom edge.

Figure 5.3.1. Constructing the Front Piece.

G4 Instructions - 15 -
Step 6: Mesh Side Pockets
6.1 Pin bottom corners of MESH SIDE POCKET pieces together to form a dart in the pocket
shape. Stitch 1/2" from raw edge leaving the last 1/2" unsewn. Double stitich. See
Figure 6.1.

Figure 6.1. Mesh Side Pockets.

6.2 Attach one Pocket Edge piece (ripstop) to top edge of one MESH SIDE POCKET piece
in the same manner as for the MESH FRONT POCKET in step 5.1.1 and 5.1.2.

6.3 Knot one end of 18" piece of shockcord. Sear end with the knot. Thread free end of
shockcord into casing and sew in place using same method used in step 5.1.3. Repeat
step 6.2 and 6.3 for other MESH SIDE POCKET piece.

6.4 Pin one- 4" piece of loop fastener to the right side of one SIDE piece (ripstop) to the area
shown on pattern. Stitch 1/8" from edges. Repeat this step for other SIDE piece.

6.5 Pin wrong side of one MESH SIDE POCKET piece to the right side of one SIDE piece
(ripstop) matching the side and bottom edges, splitting the corners 1/2” as shown in
figure 6.5. The top edge of the MESH SIDE POCKET piece should be 6” from the top of
the SIDE piece. Tighten shockcord to 9" and pin in place. Sew 1/2" from the side and
bottom edges. Knot the cord and trim excess cord. Sear end of cording. Do same for
remaining MESH SIDE POCKET piece and SIDE piece.

Figure 6.1. Mesh Side Pocket corners.

,

G4 Instructions - 16 -
6.6 With right sides together pin one SIDE BOTTOM piece (oxford/330d Cordura) to one
SIDE piece (ripstop) as shown in Figure 6.6. Double stitch 1/2" from edge along the
straight bottom edge. Repeat this step for the remaining SIDE BOTTOM piece and
SIDE piece making sure to end up with a right and a left side.

Figure 6.6 Constructing the side pieces

Step 7: Attaching the Sides, Back and Front

A. Attach SIDES to BACK (NOTE: When attaching the SIDES to the BACK piece make
sure the BOTTOM SIDE piece with the smaller "curved" corner is pinned to the BACK
piece).
1. With right sides together pin SIDE pieces to BACK. Starting at the top of the pack
with the top raw edge of one SIDE piece even with top raw edge of the BACK piece,
pin the SIDE and BACK together matching raw edges. Continue pinning the side to
the back matching the raw edges past the angled area of the BACK piece and past
the slightly rounded edge of the BOTTOM SIDE piece. Stop pinning 1/2" from
bottom raw edge of the BOTTOM SIDE piece. NOTE: Waist belt and webbing strap
will protrude past raw edges- let them protrude as they will be dealt with in the next
step. Double stitch 1/2" from raw edge stopping the stitching 1/2" from bottom raw
edge of BOTTOM SIDE piece. Repeat step 7.A.1 to attach other SIDE piece to the
BACK piece.

2. Reinforce protruding waist belt and shoulder bottom strap bottom pieces by flattening
out the waist belt and webbing and pinning it to the wrong side of the BOTTOM SIDE
piece pulling them tight to make sure they are flat. Bartack twice as shown in Figure
7.A.2.

G4 Instructions - 17 -
Figure 7.A.2. Waist belt and shoulder strap reinforcement.

3. Bartack over lashing loops in seam allowance.

B. Attach SIDES to FRONT.

1. With right sides together pin SIDE piece to FRONT piece starting at the top and
working toward the bottom of the BACK piece in the same manner as in step 7.A.1.
NOTE: the top of the MESH POCKETS will line up with each other. Stop pinning
when you reach the stitching that attaches the SIDE to the BACK. You will notice
the FRONT piece is longer than where you stopped sewing in step 7.A.1. This will
be dealt with in the next step. Double stitch 1/2" from raw edge stopping the
stitching where the longer FRONT piece runs into the bottom of the BACK piece.

2. Bartack over lashing loops in seam allowance.

C. Attach the BACK to the FRONT.

1. To attach the bottom edge of the BACK piece to the bottom edge of the FRONT
piece cut off the excess fabric of the FRONT piece (ripstop) so that it is even with
the bottom raw edge of the BACK piece. Before pinning bottom edges together
center the 10" piece of grosgrain along the bottom edge of the BACK piece
matching raw edges to form the bottom lashing loop make lashing loop in same
manner as loop in Step 5.2.1. Pin. Stitch across lashing loop 3/8" from raw edge.
With right sides together and matching raw edges pin bottom edge of BACK piece
to bottom edge of FRONT piece with 10" bottom lashing loop sandwiched inside.
Double stitch 1/2" from raw edge.

2. Bartack over bottom lashing loop in seam allowance.

Step 8: Collar (Ripstop)

8.1 Attach the two- 3 1/2" x 2" pieces of loop fastener to the right side of the COLLAR piece
where indicated on pattern piece.

G4 Instructions - 18 -
8.2 Attach 3/4" x 5" piece of hook fastener to right side of COLLAR piece where indicated on
pattern piece. NOTE: Hook fastener piece is placed up-side-down (hook side against
wrong side of ripstop). Stitch along top edge only.

8.3 Pin one 3/4" x 2" piece of hook fastener to one 3/4" x 5" piece of grosgrain ribbon
according to Figure 8.3. Stitch near all four edges of hook fastener.

Figure 8.3 Grosgrain/Hook fastener pulls

8.4 Fold over 1" end of grosgrain ribbon 1/2" toward hook fastener side. Pin. Stitch near
raw edge.

Figure 8.4 Grosgrain/Hook fastener pulls

8.5 Pin 2" end of grosgrain ribbon to collar piece with hook side down where indicated on
pattern piece.
Repeat steps 8.3 to 8.5 for remaining 3/4" x 2" piece of hook fastener and 3/4" x 5" piece
of grosgrain ribbon.

8.6 Fold top edge of COLLAR piece 1/4" toward wrong side of ripstop. Pin. Then fold this
same edge 1/2" to form a casing. Pin. Stitch 1/8" from bottom edge of casing.

Figure 8.6 Collar piece seam

G4 Instructions - 19 -
8.7 With wrong sides together fold COLLAR piece in half matching short raw edges. Pin.
Stitch 1/2" from edge leaving the top 2" unsewn. Double stitch seam.

Figure 8.7 Collar seam

8.8 Pin the seam flat and topstitch 1/8" from raw edge. NOTE: Do this even along the 2"
unsewn area. Bartack where shown.

Figure 8.8 Collar seam topstitching/bartacking

8.9 With right sides together, pin bottom edge of COLLAR piece to top edge of pack body
making certain area with 2” opening is in the center of the FRONT piece.

8.10 Thread the 48" long piece of drawcord into casing along top of COLLAR piece. Attach
toggle to drawcord. Sear ends of drawcord and tie together in knot that won't slip
through the toggle.

Figure 8.10 Colar piece with drawcord

Step 9: Finishing
9.1 Slide Top Closure (Optional)
Unless you plan to hike in very wet conditions the slide top closure will probably not be
necessary. The slide top closure is in response to people hiking where it often rains that
wanted a little additional protection. While we recommend you continue to pack your
clothes and sleeping bag within a trash compactor bag or similar protection from water,
G4 Instructions - 20 -
 you may want to construct the slide top closure to provide an additional measure of
security. Unless you plan to hike in very wet conditions the slide top closure will
probably not be necessary.

9.1.1 Hem two opposite sides of the 14” square SLIDE TOP piece (ripstop) by folding over
raw edge 1/2". Stitch 1/8" from raw edge.

9.1.2 Fold over the other two sides 1/2" to create casings. Stitch 1/8" from raw edge.

9.1.3 Thread a 24” long piece of shockcord into each sleeve. Sew across the shockcord at
one end of the sleeves so that 4” of shock cord is left out on that side. NOTE: The
shockcord protruding from the other end of the sleeve will be longer.

9.1.4 Tie the short shock cord ends onto the upper lash loops on the back panel of the
pack. Tie the longer shock cord ends onto the lower lash loops on the front panel of
the pack. This configuration allows you to slide the top up and out of the way to
access the inside of the pack. When closing the pack, first cinch up the drawcord,
and pull it down through the bottom lashing loop. Use the toggle to “catch” against
the loop and hold the top down with no need to tie a knot. Then slide the slide top
down to cover the opening.

9.2 Ladderlock Buckle Attachment

9.2.1 Thread 1” webbing through ladderlocks on shoulder strap tops. Fold over the ends of
the webbing about ¾”, and sew near the folded edge. Fold so that the end is on the
outside, which gives you something to grab when you tighten the straps.

9.3 Side Release Buckle Attachment

9.3.1 Trim the excess off the waist belt straps. Make sure to allow enough for when you
are wearing additional jackets. You may want to wait until you have used the pack
for awhile. Sear the cut ends with a flame and fold over and sew similar to the
shoulder straps.

Tips for Use

Care
Your G4 pack is constructed of lightweight materials. One of the tradeoffs of designing with extremely
lightweight materials is durability. The design and materials have been tested over hundreds of trail miles.
The G4 will not last as long or endure the same abuse as other packs. With the best of care it may still need
to be repaired or replaced after a few months on the trail. Each time you head our on a trip, check over your
pack carefully and repair or reinforce any areas showing wear. The ripstop nylon is very susceptible to
abrasion. If you put down the pack with the nylon ripstop on rocks, your pack will shred. Pay attention when
you are ducking under barbed wire fences and squeezing between rocks or through prickly brush. If you do
a lot of these activities, the G4 is not the pack for you.

Packing
The basic premise in the design of the G4 is using the lightest materials possible and utilizing packed items
as part of the pack. The “frame” of the G4 is your sleeping pad. We use a Z-Rest cut down to six sections
in length. The padding for shoulder and waist straps are sleeping socks and gloves/hat, using items that
would normally just be weight in your pack when walking. For packing, sit on your pad and stow the
sleeping bag in the bottom of the pack. Since the G4 seams are not sealed, we recommend using a trash
compactor bag or mylar turkey roasting bag for protecting your sleeping bag and clothes. We recommend
dispensing with the weight of a stuff sack and just stowing the bag directly into the trash compactor or mylar
bag in the pack.

The bottom of the pack is expanded to provide area for your sleeping bag and minimize loss of loft from
over-compression. Packing the sleeping bag on the bottom helps raise the center of gravity. When you take
off your sleeping socks, stuff them into the shoulder straps for padding. You may be wearing your hat and

G4 Instructions - 21 -
 gloves to start, and have nothing to put in the waist belt. However, if it is cold, you will be wearing your
jacket, which provides padding. Next pack your clothes, also in the protective turkey or trash bag. Next put
in your other gear and finally your food. Comfort is improved by keeping hard objects away from your back,
but heavy items are best placed closer to the back to minimize the pull on the shoulders.

If you start out early in the morning, you may be wearing most of your clothes. Loading your pockets with
food for the morning will allow you not to have to stop to remove food from your pack. When the day warms
up and you stop to strip clothing, we recommend putting the clothing below the food, since the clothing is
usually less dense, and packing the clothes below the food will raise the center of gravity. If your
tarp/tent/ground cloth is damp, it can be placed in the large back pocket. Placing the wet tarp in the outside
pocket will keep it away from your dry gear, and it may dry a little. The side pockets are designed to store
water (the tall Platypus fits nicely), first aid kit and “ten essential” items that you want to have ready access
to. Once your pack is packed, you can get up, fold up your pad, and slip it into the back of the pack. Under
normal loads and in clear weather, fold the top of the extension collar over, and pull the shock cord through
the webbing loop in the bottom center of the pack. You can either loop the shock cord back up and loop it
over the toggle, or slide the toggle up snug against the bottom loop to hold the top. When carrying a full load
after a large resupply or taking another hiker’s gear, just cinch up the toggle on the shock cord. For
inclement weather, use either your slide top or roll-top closure. Keep in mind that the seams are not sealed.
For dry weather use, we feel you will find that it is more convenient not to use the roll-top closure, though
you may like the cleaner look.

When you pick up or take off your full pack, always use the haul loop. When setting it down, be sure that the
pack is resting on the heavier Oxford material on the back and the bottom. Never sit or rest on a loaded
pack.

Fit
For the best fit, we recommend loosening the shoulder straps and waist belt each time you take off the pack.
When you put the pack on, fasten the waist belt, hike the pack up on your hips, tighten the waist belt then
tighten the shoulder straps.

Personal Customizing
There are several things you may want to consider to personalize your pack. For more rainy climes, you
might consider seam-sealing the inside seams. For 1.1 oz. ripstop, use a 50/50 mixture of silicon caulking
and white gas, and paint it on. For the 2.2 oz. ripstop, use conventional seam sealer. If your hiking clothes
don’t have a lot of pockets, you could order some lycra mesh and sew small pockets onto the shoulder or
waist straps to carry small items that you want to have handy. To save weight, you should trim the waist belt
to size. Be sure to take into account that you may be wearing additional layers, and don’t cut it too short.
After cutting, seal the end with a flame, and sew back over on itself to prevent it from slipping through the
buckle. Also in the interest of minimizing weight, you are encouraged to trim off straps you don’t use. If you
only use a drinking tube on the right side, trim off the loops on the left side. If you don’t use a drinking tube
or thumb loops, trim the loops off.

Available as Ready-Made
I recommend sewing your own gear, because you have the opportunity to customize it specifically to your
style and needs. That is why I starting sewing packs. The packs I design are distinctly suited to my
backpacking style, and most other people will probably want to change them a little (or a lot). However, I
have received enough requests to purchase ready-made packs that I have made arrangements to produce
limited numbers of the G4 pack for purchase. The packs are available through our website at
www.gvpgear.com . You can buy either an off-the-shelf G4 made according to these plans, or order a semi-
custom with modified pad holder dimensions, your choice of color, etc.

Pack alterations for shorter people.

Changes are made just to the straps not to the bag size...

*Shorten shoulder strap tops by 3" from the straight end.

*Move the Velcro opening, drinking tube loops, and thumb loops 2" towards
the pointy end of the shoulder straps.
*Shorten the shoulder strap webbing by 3".
*Attach the shoulder straps and handle 3" lower on the back panel
(NOTE: you will need to shorten a 20” Z-Rest pad to at least 17” to accommodate these
alterations)

G4 Instructions - 22 -