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The

kITTEN
GUIDE

The essentials for


a good start in life

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CONGRATULATIONs
on your new kitten!
As a new owner, you’ll want to provide the very best for your
kitten.
There are many things to think about, such as which diet to feed,
the best ways to nurture your kitten, and how to keep her in
optimal health. To help with the joys (and occasional challenges)
of raising a kitten, it’s our pleasure to present you with this kitten
Guide which gives loads of valuable information to get you off to
a great start.

A fresh chapter is about to begin


for you and your pet. While
exploring her new environment,
the kitten will face challenges
to her young, still developing
immune system. To help you
deal with those challenges,
Royal Canin has the most
precise nutritional answers,
whatever your kitten’s stage
of development, her breed
or characteristics.
for more information, ask
your veterinarian or breeder.

Your new kitten will


bring you endless
pleasure.

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INDEX
CARE
Bringing your kitten home 6
At home together 8
Kitten grooming 10
Kitten hygiene 12
Caring for claws and teeth 13

NUTRITION
The science of nutrition 16
Cats are different 18
Kitten needs 20
How to feed your kitten 22

TRAINING
Education and training 26
Your kitten’s home 27
Your kitten’s activities 28
Your kitten’s behaviour 29
How your kitten communicates 30

HEALTHY LIVING
Looking after your kitten’s health 34
Preventive measures 35
Vaccination 36
Internal parasite prevention 37
External parasite prevention 39

YOUR KITTEN’S INFORMATION


Your kitten’s details 42
Notes 43

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The Kittenguide
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CARE

Bringing your kitten home 6


At home together 8
Kitten grooming 10
Kitten hygiene 12
Caring for claws and teeth 13

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BRINGING
your kitten home
For your kitten, moving to your home – her
new home – is a big change. To help her cope
with this unfamiliar environment, it’s essential
that you know how to welcome your kitten into
her new family.

A safer home

You may not realise it but there Get the basics


are many dangers lurking inside ready before
your home; overlooking these can your kitten
jeopardise your kitten’s safety. New arrives
habits and certain arrangements Avoid
will help protect your kitten from over-handling
possible household accidents. By Opt for
kitten-proofing now, you can avoid stainless steel
a lot of heartache later. food and water
Just as you would for a child, you need dishes
to make sure the whole house is safe and
there’s nothing dangerous the kitten could get into.

FOR YOUR NEW KITTEN’S HEALTH AND WELL-BEING:


• keep electric wires out of sight and protect sockets with a safety plug,
• keep all medicines, pesticides, weed killers and rat poison locked away,
• Check if any of your plants are poisonous (ask your veterinarian for a list),
• Put away all small objects that could be swallowed such as elastic bands,
drawing pins, etc,
• Don’t leave plastic bags or foam objects lying around,
• Restrict her access to balconies, loggias and the like,
• Use covered rubbish bins and keep toilet lids down.

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Equipment: kitten essentials

It’s a good idea to have all the necessary


items before the kitten is brought home. Make
sure your list includes food, feeding bowls,
a litter box, a place to sleep and toys. All
of these accessories are available in specialised
retailers.

Two food and water dishes: for hygiene reasons,


you should have a small dish for her food and
a larger one for fresh water, which should be
available to your kitten at all times.
Litter Box: a container deep enough to prevent
litter flying around the room, and a scoop to
remove droppings. A covered crate
to avoid accidental spills and limit
odours is recommended, although
some kittens don’t like covered litter
boxes. Be sure to position the litter
tray at least 2 metres away from the
food and water dishes.
Bedding: a quiet, peaceful place
to sleep is vital for your kitten’s
g well-being. Generally the kitten
will choose her own place to sleep,
but it is important to provide a
warm comfortable place where
she will feel safe.
Scratching Post: all cats instinc-
tively feel the urge to scratch.
Providing appropriate places
to scratch will help to avoid
damage to your furniture and
curtains. It is well worth investing
in a scratching post or cat tree
specially designed for indoor life.
Toys: toys can be either bought or
hand made. In fact, your kitten will
probably have lots of fun with something
as simple as a crumpled up paper ball.
Be careful, though, of toys not specially
designed for cats; children’s toys, for
example, may have small parts that
could come loose and endanger the
kitten if she swallows them.

The Kittenguide 6•7

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AT HOmE
together
Your kitten has just left the only home she
has known and is about to start her new life
with you. Introducing the new environment,
family members and fellow pets (dogs and cats
already living in your household) is a very
important stage in successfully integrating
your kitten into her new home. Be patient: she
needs to explore and acclimatise gradually.

Your kitten’s first nights

The first night can be very unsettling for your


kitten (and for you). In fact, it’s normal for
kittens to cry the first 3 or 4 nights. Ensure a
calm atmosphere and remain patient.

Handling your kitten

Remember to handle your kitten carefully.


Rough or sudden movement can terrify your
cat. If you want to carry her, the best way
is to slide one hand open wide under the
stomach, and the other under the rear end.
Don’t pull your kitten by her feet.

Be patient; your
kitten will need a few
days to settle into her
Supervise
new home
the kitten’s
introduction to other
pets in
Be gentle with the household
your pet from
the moment
she arrives

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Getting to know the family

Choose a quiet room for your kitten to stay in for


the first few days. This will help her gradually
become used to her new surroundings and the
smells of her new home. Introduce the other
members of the family to her little by little.
• With children: although they don’t mean to,
children can sometimes be clumsy or rough
with animals. Explain to them that the kitten
isn’t a toy, that she needs lots of sleep and that
they shouldn’t wake her up to stroke her. To begin
with, it’s probably best not to let them play with
her when you’re not around.
• With dogs: if your dog already knows and
likes cats, this process will be much easier.
keep your dog on the lead and keep him
calm. Choose a room where your kitten feels
comfortable and where there are places to hide.
Don’t try and force your kitten into contact with
the dog.
• With other cats: introducing a new
• keep a close eye cat to an older one can be harder.
on her when she first The existing cat may feel threatened
starts exploring the house and acceptance can take several weeks.
to make sure no danger But here’s a tip: you can make things
lurks. easier by blending the odours of both
cats. Rub a soft cloth gently around
• some plants and
each cat’s face and place this in their
substances are poisonous
baskets.
to cats.
Be sure to find out
which ones.

The Kittenguide 8•9

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Kitten
GROOmING
The kitten will start to groom herself when
she’s 15 days old, but there are also some things
you can do to help her with this and contribute
to her well-being. In time, she’ll get used to
being handled and grooming will afford an
opportunity to enjoy each other’s company and
strengthen the bond between you.

How cats groom themselves?

Along with sleep, grooming is one of the kitten’s


top priorities. Cats’ main grooming aid is their
rough tongues, but they also uses their paws.
The front paws are moistened with the tongue
and serve as a washcloth going as far as the ears.
The back paws are very flexible, allowing the
kitten to groom all of her back and also the ears.

Brushing is not just a luxury;


it’s a necessity

When she cleans herself, your kitten swallows


dead hairs, and this can block her digestive tract.
To minimise the amount of hair she swallows,
you should brush her regularly. some adult cats
need specially formulated food to boost their
digestive systems and help eliminate
hairballs more easily.

• Get your kitten her own special brush and comb.


• Don’t forget to groom behind her ears and the back of her neck.
• Always brush first in the direction the hair grows and then
the opposite way.

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Short-haired breeds

With short-haired cats, a weekly brushing is


sufficient. Before brushing, you can massage
against the hair direction with a “toothed” glove
which will eliminate some of the dead hair
and stimulate the skin. Brushing should be
done with a soft brush, preferably with natural
bristles, so as not to damage the coat.

Mid- to long-haired breeds

These need daily brushing for a few minutes to


avoid knots and tangles and to eliminate dirt and
parasites. A large toothed metal comb is the
most suitable tool for grooming these breeds.
Be careful with the comb. A comb
penetrates the coat better than a
If your cat has a brush but there is a greater
long or medium risk of irritating the surface of
length coat, brush her the skin. Choose your comb
every day Finish up carefully.
the brushing session
with a cuddle
or a game
Use a soft brush,
preferably one with
natural bristles

The Kittenguide 10 • 11

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kITTEN
hygiene
Very few cats are keen on water, but for those
with long and medium length coats, bathing is a
must, so you should get your kitten accustomed
to water from a very early age. This step can take
time and must be done progressively.

Your kitten’s first bath, step by step

Be gentle
To get your kitten used to water without
frightening her, start by dampening her with a
washcloth or a sponge. If she reacts aggressively,
don’t insist. It’s better to try again over the
next few days.
Once she’s become accustomed to water,
you can use a bowl to wet her back but Keep checking
be careful not to pour water over her the water
head or get it into her eyes and ears. temperature
Use a specially formulated cat (36-37°C) Do not use hair
shampoo dyes to colour
These are the only ones with the your kitten’s
Avoid
right level of acidity for your cat’s skin coat
wetting the head.
and coat. You can buy them at the
Use only shampoo
veterinarian or in pet shops.
formulated
Rinse well for cats
After you’ve cleaned the dirty parts, rinse
her off well with a bowl of water or under the
shower. To dry her fur, wrap her up in a warm,
dry towel.

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CARING fOR
claws and teeth
Clipping your kitten’s claws

Clipping your kitten’s claws doesn’t hurt her at all


but it’s important to get her used to it from a very
early age so that she doesn’t get nervous. Take it
slowly, one claw at a time. You can either take her
to the vet’s to have her claws clipped or you can do
it yourself. Dedicated nail clippers can be found at
vet clinics and specialised retailers.
• Choose a comfortable spot and place the kitten
on your knees.
• Press lightly on the footpad to extend the claw.
• Clip the white tip of the claw without ever going
close to the edge of the pink triangle (see the
picture on the left).

Care of nose, ears and eyes

Cleaning your kitten’s nose


some cats may have dried nasal secretions in
the corners of the nostrils. You can easily remove
these with a warm, wet cotton ball or tissue.
Cleaning your kitten’s ears
r Rule no.1 is to touch the ears as little as possible.
If they are dirty, apply a small amount of specially
formulated lotion and gently massage the outside
of the ear (see picture on the left). Never use a cotton
bud or a water- or alcohol-based solution. If there is
an obvious and unpleasant looking discharge, consult
your veterinarian for a precise diagnosis.
Cleaning your kitten’s eyes
Clean your kitten’s eyes with a little piece of gauze
and a specially formulated cleanser, which you
can buy at the veterinarian’s.

Caring for your kitten’s teeth

milk teeth appear from weeks 3 to 6, permanent


teeth from 4 months. Later, tartar may form on
the teeth and this can cause inflamed gums and
bad breath. Brushing your kitten’s teeth with a cat
toothbrush and specially formulated toothpaste
will help keep tooth and gum problems at bay.

The Kittenguide 12 • 13

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The Kittenguide
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NUTRITION

Cats are different 16


Kitten needs 18
The science of nutrition 20
How to feed your kitten 22

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Cats are
DIffERENT
However close the bond between us, people
and cats are very different from each other.

What makes cats different?

Unlike humans, who are omnivores, cats


are carnivores. Their jaws are designed
for cutting, not for chewing. Their food
is digested by the powerful acid in
their stomachs rather than being Your cat’s dietary
pre-digested by the saliva in their needs are different
mouths. from yours
Cats eat their food
An established routine with foods in small portions
suited to their nutritional needs throughout
helps ensure a balanced diet and the day
guards against overweight. A sudden change
in diet can lead
feeding your cat the wrong food could
to digestive upsets
lead to obesity, which increases the
risk of diabetes.
Cats usually eat their food in
many small meals throughout
the day.

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A keen sense of smell

smell and texture play a far greater role in


your cat’s dietary likes and dislikes than taste.
food has no “social” value for cats, so if yours
won’t eat it either means she’s sick or she really
doesn’t like what you’ve given her.

Food needs to be tempting

food needs to have an appealing smell and


texture for cats to want to eat it; taste is far less
od important. This is why Royal Canin takes extra
ns care not only with the choice of raw
materials used in its cat diets but also
with the shape, size and texture of
the pieces, to ensure that cats
will find it highly palatable.

Taste Buds Olfactory Cells Weight Ratio of Digestive System


Cat 500 60-65 million 2.8 % - 3.5 %
Dog 1,700 70-200 million 2.7 % - 7 %
Man 9,000 5-20 million 10 %
What this means Taste is the cat’s least She is very sensitive She has a low
for your kitten developed sense to odours digestive capacity

The Kittenguide 16 • 17

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Kitten
NEEDs
One of the most important aspects of your
kitten’s life is her physical growth. Not only
will her personality become clearly defined,
but her body will also continue developing
until she reaches her full size in adulthood.

The 2 stages of growth

Birth to 4 months: at this stage, kittens go


through a very intense and particularly delicate
period of growth during which they are prone
to digestive upsets. Although new-born kittens’
digestive systems are suited to
a milk diet, they gradually lose
their capacity to digest lactose as
they grow.
Contrary to what many people think,
cow’s milk is not suitable for cats.
kittens cut their milk teeth at 3
to 6 weeks.

Weaning
kittens are ready to be weaned when
they are 4 or 5 weeks old. Their first meals
should be similar in texture to porridge and
made with a little warm water or formula
kitten milk. The amount of liquid should then
be gradually reduced until your kitten is able
to eat dry food. Another option is to mix some of
the dry food with wet kitten food.

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4 to 12 months: your kitten’s growth rate is
slower now. Her permanent teeth appear and
her digestive system matures and is better able
to cope with food. Her bone structure gradually
becomes stronger and her muscle mass
increases. Although her energy needs may
progressively drop, they still remain considerable.

Keep an eye on her weight


Your kitten should never lose weight. It’s a
good idea to weigh her regularly. If she’s not
putting on enough weight, it’s essential that you
supplement her diet with formula kitten milk
or appropriate food after weaning.
Ask your veterinarian if necessary.

Factors that influence


your kitten’s growth

Gender: male kittens have


Cow’s milk greater growthpotential and
is not suitable continue to grow for several
for cats more weeks than females.
Weigh They become heavier
your kitten than females at between
Gradually regularly 6 and 12 weeks.
wean your kitten
on to solid food from Genes: your kitten gets
the age of 4 or 5 half of her genetic make-
weeks up from her mother and
half from her father. Their
size, body type and other
characteristics of their lineages
all influence her growth.

Hormones: after birth, your kitten’s growth


depends on the efficient synthesis of certain
hormones. Early neutering or spaying has no
effect on growth rate.

The Kittenguide 18 • 19

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THE sCIENCE
of nutrition
Conventionally, nutrition means building and
maintaining the body and providing it with
energy. Of course, the aim of feeding is to
supply energy for healthy cell growth but
Health Nutrition goes further and integrates
a preventative dimension into this approach.

What is Health Nutrition ?


Health
Health Nutrition diets are formulated Nutrition improves
with the utmost precision. Proteins, your cat’s health in
minerals, trace elements, vitamins, the long term
fats, carbohydrates… each group of Well balanced
nutrients plays its role and their home-made food
quantities must be exact – neither is very difficult
Health to prepare
too much nor too little. Nutrition meets the
A food that meets the requirements of specific needs of age,
Health Nutrition will combine just the right breed, lifestyle and
amount of each of the selected nutrients. sensivities
Royal Canin has developed nutritional solutions
for the special needs of the kitten.

Food facts

The ingredients on a packet of food is just a


list of raw materials. The nutritional approach
takes these and constructs a complex
interlocking puzzle of nutrients each selected
for its specific role in promoting the cat’s health.

Food choice

Various options are available to meet your


kitten’s nutritional needs, ranging from
home-made foods to manufactured feeds,
whether in the form of kibbles, cans or pouches.

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To ensure your cat’s longevity and quality of life,
you must pay attention to her health throughout
her life. Nutritional deficiencies caused by an
unbalanced diet are as dangerous as chronic
over-feeding, and significantly shorten life
expectancy.

Home-made food

These are foods you make yourself, using


rice, meat, and vegetables. Although it can
be satisfying to cook for your cat, this type
of feeding has several major drawbacks.
Preparing balanced home-made food with
exactly the right amounts of nutrients is
particularly difficult. If certain vital nutrients
are missing, your cat could suffer major
deficiencies with resulting damage to her
health.
d
od
t

Manufactured food

It’s best to choose a Health Nutrition


food which will offer your kitten a
complete and balanced package of
all the nutrients she needs. These
foods are manufactured to meet
the highest standards of quality
and safety.

The Kittenguide 20 • 21

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HOW TO fEED
your kitten
Cats are notoriously fussy eaters, so their
food has to smell good as well as do them
good. This means offering your cat a proper
nutritional diet which is not only suited to her age
and specific needs, but also highly palatable.

Self-service or small meals

When cats have free access to their food, they


mostly eat small amounts – only a few grams –
but they do so many times a day, maybe 15 to
17 little meals per 24 hours. You need to monitor
your kitten’s daily food intake as well as her
weight. You can cut down on quantities if
you need to, (even if her food bowl is readily
accessible.)

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Food transition period (1 week)

75% usual food 50% usual food 25% usual food 100%
+ 25% new food + 50% new food + 75% new food new food

Any sudden change in diet can cause digestive


upsets (soft stools or diarrhoea). mix
the old food with the new one for
a week-long transitional period,
Cats eat before phasing out the old one
several times altogether (see above).
a day
Give your cat
food that’s suitable
for her age
Introduce
new foods
gradually

Precautions

It is essential that you feed your kitten the right


kind and amount of food for her age. make sure
she always has fresh water in her bowl. And,
most importantly, let her eat in peace.

The Kittenguide 22 • 23

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The Kittenguide
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TRAINING

Education and training 26


Your kitten’s home 27
Your kitten’s activities 28
Your kitten’s behaviour 29
How your kitten communicates 30

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Education
AND TRAINING
Your kitten’s basic education takes place
during the period from birth to 6 months
through the mother’s dominant role and
interaction with siblings. So, when you adopt
a kitten, your contribution to the foundations
of her education is limited but you still have
responsibilities.

First steps in kitten knowledge


A kitten learns in two different ways: she Mother cats play
starts by imitating her mother’s actions, an essential role
and then she learns by herself, by in raising
experimenting. You have to complete their kittens A well
her socialisation in the context of her socialised kitten
new environment. is easier to train
The mother cat’s role Kittens need
a stimulating
If the kitten has been raised by her mother, environment
it’s better to wait until she’s at least 2 months
old before separating them. This way she will be
better prepared for life in her new home. mother
cats play a vital role in their kittens’ upbringing,
teaching them hygiene and social habits by
example and through play, as well as feeding
them, keeping them in check, comforting and
protecting them.

The influence of the environment


A kitten that’s been in contact with
different people and animals from
a very early age will have a more
open outlook on life and will
be more inquisitive. similarly,
familiarisation with the sounds
of day-to-day life will ensure
she settles in perfectly in
her new home.

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Your kitten’s
HOmE
To live in harmony with your kitten, it’s
essential to understand how she organises
her territory and basic activities.
Inside your home, the kitten organizes her life
around four key areas. Once her territory is
defined, she will spend most of the time
sleeping, playing, eating and cuddling.
You must respect this organization
without disturbing her too much
or else you risk causing behavioural
problems.

n
4
n
2
1 Feeding area: food
Lounge and water dishes should
1 Hall be placed well away from
Kitchen 3 your kitten’s litter tray.
Storage room 2 Sleeping area: put her
basket somewhere warm
Bedroom (e.g. next to a radiator, fire
place or a sunny window) and
not too far away from the centre
of family life.
3 Hygiene area: you should put
your kitten’s litter tray in an easily
accessible spot, well away from her
food and water dishes and the family
• Put her basket in
rooms. The litter tray must be cleaned
a cosy corner.
regularly and often.
• keep her litter tray away 4 Play area: your kitten needs a suitable
from her food and water place to run around in, with high objects
dishes. like tables, cupboards, shelves and sofa
backs that she can jump up on.

The Kittenguide 26 • 27

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Your kitten’s
ACTIVITIEs
Exercise is essential for your kitten’s
well-being. Favourite exercises are those
which allow her to climb, perch, jump,
sharpen claws and play with toys (ball of
paper, toy mouse, hard ball with bell, etc.).

PLAY: playing is a major part of the kitten’s


socialisation. It encourages exploration
of her surroundings, develops physical
Be respectful
capabilities and is also an antidote to
of your kitten’s
isolation. for the cat, playing and hunting
body clock
are two closely linked activities and a
toy is often identified as the prey. If your Encourage
kitten’s natural hunting instinct leads to exercise through
aggressive behaviour, don’t hesitate play
to reprimand her and make sure she Never wake
understands such behaviour is not your kitten
acceptable. from sleep
ROOSTING: being at the same height as your
face makes your kitten happy. she can rub
against you, as with an equal. furniture and cat
trees are ideal.
SLEEP: sleep is essential for your
kitten’s growth. she alternates
between light sleep, when she
stays semi-alert, and deep or
REm sleep, when she will dream
and be totally relaxed. from the
age of 2 months, her sleeping
pattern evolves until she is
sleeping on average 13 to 16
hours a day, spread across the
24 hours.

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Your kitten’s
BEHAVIOUR
These tests are a simple and quick way to help
you learn about your kitten’s nature.

ALUMINIUM FOIL BALL TEST


Roll a ball of aluminium foil in front of your kitten.
If she is slow to react, she may be expressing
either fear or indifference to outside movement.
NOISE TEST
Clap your hands loudly in full view of the kitten.
If she acts curious while staying calm, she
has been brought up in a full and stimulating
environment. If the kitten runs away, you should
make a point of exposing her to the noises of
h everyday life so she may become accustomed
to the sounds of your household.
SOCIALISATION TEST
Observe your kitten from a distance: if she
is nervous and tries to run away when you
approach her, she may not have been properly
socialised, or has a naturally timid personality.
It’s essential to provide toys and
to play with your kitten.
DOMINANCE TEST
• Get to know your kitten A kitten who allows her tummy
better by playing with her. to be stroked while lying on her
• Your kitten is highly back acknowledges and accepts
sensitive to your body your authority — she will be
language and behaviour. docile and good tempered. If she
• If your kitten scratches, struggles or tries to scratch, she
scold her firmly but has not accepted your authority
gently. and handling her may provoke
unexpected reactions like biting.

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How your kitten
COmmUNICATEs
Kittens are extraordinarily adept at communi-
cating. You’ll find that yours is very sensitive
to your body language and postures. She can
understand what you are feeling by observing
your attitude and gestures and even anticipate
what you are going to do. Your kitten is continually
communicating with you through an explicit
body language of great variety.

Facial Expressions
The shape of the eyes and the position of the IMPORTANCE
ears are accurate indicators of what she wants OF WHISKERS
to express.
Never cut the whiskers.
Neutral cat A cat uses her whiskers
Ears upright and open, eyes round. for the tactile exploration
of her surroundings.
Her whiskers are also
used to communicate
Angry cat with other animals.
Ears straight twisted to the sides,
eyes puckered.

Aggressive cat
Ears down, pupils round
and dilated. Kittens
use their bodies
and heads
Happy cat Never cut
Ears open and forward a kitten’s
upright, eyes half closed, whiskers
pupils in slits.
Kittens
can sense
your mood

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Body language

LIGHT TOUCHING AND BRUSHING ROUND YOU


When she does this, the kitten deposits hormonal
secretions from the glands under her ears
against your ankles. This act shows that she
feels good and is including you in her territory.
KNEADING
When the kitten kneads your knees and lap
for long periods, she is expressing intense
pleasure and reliving some of the enjoyment
she felt when feeding from her mother.
ROLLING ON THE GROUND
This position is only possible when the kitten
is totally relaxed with the people around her. It’s
an act of submission associated with an earlier
moment of relaxation.
TAIL WAVING
When the kitten moves her tail, she is expressing
irritation. If you are stroking your kitten and she
starts to wave her tail, stop immediately. she is
telling you that she doesn’t like what you’re
doing.
SOUNDS
• Purring: when your kitten purrs, she is generally
showing submission and contentment. However,
note that she may also purr when she’s anxious
or uncomfortable.
• Growling and hissing: this is an intimidation
tactic and can be used in an attack.
• Meowing: there is a huge variety of meows,
each with their own meaning. You will learn
to recognize them by observing your kitten.
TERRITORY MARKINGS
Your kitten’s habit of marking territory
is natural behaviour and a means of
communication. It is made by depositing
scents, hormonal secretions or scratch
marks. Each of these methods may be a
warning to other animals not to encroach,
a sign of anxiety or, on the contrary, a sign
of acceptance of her bounds.

The Kittenguide 30 • 31

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The Kittenguide
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HEALTHY
LIVING

Looking after your kitten’s health 34


Preventive measures 35
Vaccination 36
Internal parasite prevention 37
External parasite prevention 38

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LOOkING AfTER
your kitten’s health

Your kitten’s first visit to the veterinarian

The first visit to the veterinarian (generally


already done if the kitten was sold to you) is
not just a simple consultation, but an in-depth
examination.

This complete check-up will confirm the exact


state of health of your new companion and will
assure you there are no hidden defects (diseases,
malformations, etc.).
If your kitten was given to you, this may be the
first visit, and is the time for all the necessary
vaccinations and checks. Your veterinarian will
complete the kitten’s health record and will give
you useful advice on grooming and behaviours
specific to her breed.
Ask your veterinarian if you need to bring
anything in particular (paperwork etc.).

Consider getting
a proper cat carrier
to take your kitten
to the veterinarian Your veterinarian
can identify
hidden
The first health problems
veterinarian visit
is the time for
vaccinations
and checks

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PREVENTIVE
measures

Permanent identification

Cats may be identified by a tattoo or the insertion


of a tiny microchip under the skin. Giving you
kitten some form of permanent identification
will help in finding her if she ever gets lost. A
qualified veterinarian can insert the microchip,
which contains the owner’s contact details.

Spaying or neutering your kitten

This operation, usually done around 6 months


prevents unwanted litters and encourages
behaviour better suited to indoor life. for
cats who are allowed outdoors, sterilisation
increases life expectancy by reducing the
likelihood of fights and the transmission of
infectious diseases. Ask your veterinarian
for more information.

• Identification by
microchip or tattoo
can help in finding your
kitten if she gets lost.

The Kittenguide 34 • 35

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VACCINATION
Vaccinating your kitten helps protect her
health. Vaccinations can be divided into
2 types: core (recommended for all cats) and
non-core (depending on individual risk). Your
veterinarian is best placed to recommend the
most suitable vaccination programme for your
kitten’s lifestyle.

Diseases against which


your kitten should be vaccinated

• Cat Flu: caused by various pathogens,


including feline herpes virus (fHV) Vaccinations help
and feline calici virus. Cat flu affects prevent the spread
the eyes, mouth and airways. of contagious
diseases Work out
• Feline Panleukopenia Virus: an
a suitable vaccination
often-fatal viral infection causing
programme with your
diarrhoea and vomiting. Initial veterinarian
• Feline Leukaemia Virus (FeLV): vaccinations
suppresses the immune system, leaving should begin between
the infected cat highly vulnerable to other 7 and 9 weeks
diseases. of age

Your veterinarian will be able to assess the


kitten’s risk profile and the best age for her to
be vaccinated. He/she can draw up a vaccination
programme specially suited to your kitten and
her lifestyle.
Ask your veterinarian for advice.

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PREVENTION Of
Internal parasite

Internal parasites, such as worms


• kittens are more and protozoa, affect kittens more
susceptible to parasites often than adult cats because their
than adult cats. immune systems are not yet fully
• Your kitten should receive developed. Your veterinarian will
regular deworming advise you on deworming and other
treatments. necessary treatments.

Worms
Two types of worms are frequently found in
kittens:
tion • Round Worms: these worms lodge in the
your kitten’s small intestine, where they form balls and
can cause intestinal obstructions. They can be
detected by the presence of eggs in the kitten’s
stool or round the anal area.
• Tape Worms: these fix onto the walls of
the intestine and cause bloating, diarrhoea
and sometimes damage to the coat. Their
presence can be detected in the stool. They look
like grains of rice.

Protozoa
Only your veterinarian can identify these parasites
and prescribe the appropriate treatment.
There are 2 micro-organisms which mainly infect
kittens:
• Giardia: fix onto the mucous membrane of
the small intestine, causing diarrhoea, incomplete
digestion, and a gradual loss of bodyweight.
• Coccidia: are also parasites of the digestive
system.

The Kittenguide 36 • 37

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PREVENTION Of
external parasite

FLEAS
fleas will make your kitten frantically scratch,
wash and lick herself. They can be eliminated
by using an appropriate anti-parasite product.
You may need to treat your house too. This can
be done with diffusers or by spraying insecticide
over all the surfaces your kitten has been in
contact with – including bedding – and anywhere
else she may have been.

RINGWORM
Ringworm is caused by a fungus that grows
at the base of the hair. It doesn’t cause
irritation but the skin turns black and
the hair falls out, mostly around the
head. Consult your veterinarian at
the first signs of roundworm as the Flea prevention
treatment is lengthy and complex. is easier than
treatment
EAR MITES Use a special tick
This ear infection is caused by removal tool to remove
mites living in the ear canal. The the whole tick
presence of an abundant blackish properly
Ringworm
and waxy discharge and the shaking is a fungal
of the head or rubbing with the paw infection
are usually signs of ear mites. follow
your veterinarian’s advice for treatment.

TICKS
Ticks are caught almost exclusively outdoors.
They generally attach themselves to the skin
around the animal’s neck and ears. Your cat
can catch diseases from ticks so they should be
removed using a special tick removing tool.
Every part of the tick must be removed, including
the head and mouth parts.

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k
move

The Kittenguide 38 • 39

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The Kittenguide
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Your kitten’s
information

Your kitten’s details 42


Notes 43

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Your kitten’s
DETAILs
Information

kitten’s name: ......................................................


Identification number: .........................................
Breed: ...................................................................
sex: .......................................................................
Date of birth: ........................................................

Feeding information
Diet name: ...................................Change to adult food at: .......... months
food portions: ...................................... Cups/Grams: ........ Times per day
Provide clean, fresh water at all times

Medical information
Allergies: .......................................................................................................
special medications: ....................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................
special conditions: .......................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................

Emergency care givers


Names: ............................................ Names: ...............................................
Number: ........................................ Number: ...............................................
Email: ................................................ Email: ...............................................
Veterinary practice number: ........................................................................
.......................................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................
.......................................................................................................................

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NOTEs
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The Kittenguide 42 • 43

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FHN_KittenGuideCat'sGuide_-44p_09_2012.indd 44
© ROYAL CANIN SAS 2012. All Rights Reserved. Credits photos : Y. Lanceau, F. Duhayer, J.-M. Labat-Rouquette - 09/2012 -

20/09/12 12:16

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